From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 07:22:29 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 09:22:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info Hello all; I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have attached the response. Dave Friedlander ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Mike Sabelhaus Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? To: David Friedlander , Hi David, Thanks for contacting Litezupp. We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting them listed on the web site. I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit pricing. We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have our show pricing in effect. Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via email where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one in my TR3B. Regards, Mike S. Litezupp Ind. LLC *Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit* Rear Brake/Run ? LR57RN Rear Turn ? L56RN License Plate ? LDB12WN Front Turn/Park ? L57WN Headlamps ? L7NP-H43G Dash ? 5 pair LDS12WN - Dash gauges (2) - Tach (2) - Speedo (2) - Ign. Warning (1) - Turn (1) - High Beam (1) Other - Electronic Flasher ? (1) LFM3NG *Summary - For 12V Negative ground system* *Function* *Part #* *Qty* *Unit $* *Ext $* Rear Brake/Run Red LR57RN 2 24.95 $49.90 Rear Turn Red (Amber?) L56RN 2 19.95 $39.90 License Plate White LDB12WN 1 8.00 $8.00 Front Turn/Park White L57WN 2 19.95 $39.90 Electronic Flasher LFM3NG 1 17.95 $17.95 Dash White - Illum (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn (1) LDS12WN 4 8.00 $32.00 Headlamps L7NP-H43G 1 125.00 $125.00 TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit $187.65 *Show Special 10% off* *$168.89 * TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps $312.65 *Show Special 12% off* *$275.13 * *From:* David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com] *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM *To:* sales at litezupp.com *Subject:* TR3 Bundle? Gentlemen; I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative earth. Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) that includes lighting and all necessary hardware for the indicator lights (I already have LED headlights)? Thank you, Dave Friedlander Maine -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: TR3A_B LED kit 2018_7_11.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 459270 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 08:42:11 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 07:42:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re torque TR4A head, hot or cold ? References: <1733282491.2346656.1533052308797.JavaMail.zimbra@centurylink.net> <70315232-4ade-28df-de81-29e26f09999e@tonydrews.com> <4BC092BEA82C41E7AFD769409A14C09D@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> Just by way of comment - when I do a re-torque I use a paint pen on the stud and the nut so when I am done I can see how much each nut moved. No idea what to do with that info, just find it interesting to know. Geo On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 11:46 PM Randall wrote: > > this makes no sense. To get it hot it has to run, but one > > wouldn't run it without it being torqued down especially with > > wet liners. > > Which is why they call it RE-torque. Initial torque done cold, retorque > done hot. > > The TR3A owner's manual actually specifies retorque hot, although that > particular item was left out of the TR4-4A manuals. Instead, you were > supposed to return to the dealer for the initial service. > > That said, I've never been able to tell that it made any difference. The > steel studs expand at almost exactly the same rate as the cast iron head, > so > the only difference would be the relatively thin head gasket. I suspect > the > whole hot/cold thing has more to do with convenience (not having to wait > for > the engine to cool when brought to the dealer for initial service) than > anything. > > For cast iron heads, anyway. Alloy heads expand much faster than the steel > studs, which is why it's important they be retorqued cold. > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Wed Aug 1 09:13:18 2018 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2018 15:13:18 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Re torque TR4A head, hot or cold ? The local British mechanic who our Triumph Club members use, told me to re-torque it cold. I backed off each?nut 1/4 turn in order, then re-torqued. ?Most went right back to the same spot, but I think 3 of them went about 3/4s of a turn, so they needed it. Rye PH: 530-FIND-RYE On Jul 31, 2018, at 11:21 PM, Tony Drews wrote: The question was RE-torque.? Obviously you put the engine together including properly torquing the head while it's cold.? With an iron head and composite gasket you run the engine for a bit (I use the cam break-in 20 minutes for that), and when it's good and warm you torque the head a 2nd time.? With an aluminum head you're supposed to let it cool before torquing a 2nd time. Tony On 7/31/2018 7:53 PM, David P wrote: this makes no sense. To get it hot it has to run, but one wouldn't run it without it being torqued down especially with wet liners. So cold torque the head and use new studs and nuts too. daveP On 7/31/2018 12:26 PM, Tony Drews wrote: Retorque hot. A rule I thumb I was recently told: Iron head = retorque hot, Aluminum head = retorque cold. Cheers, Tony Drews On 7/31/2018 10:51 AM, asg123 at centurylink.net wrote: Recently replace the exhaust valves on my car.? New German made head gasket. Running well, very pleased.? Wonder what the consensus is it better? to re torque when engine is cool or hot?? As always thanks to all for the help I have received keeping this car going over the years.? Arnold S Gilmour ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ Virus-free. www.avg.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Aug 1 09:38:51 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 11:38:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info $168.00!!!! WOW! typical led dash lamps run 5 for sub $4.00, 1156 and 1157 led bulbs can be had for sub $10 each! Mine are now several years old and a 10k worth of road vibrations and all work just fine. Only swap is an electronic flasher, and a good pulse width modulation dimmer for the dash dash,,,you're actually looking for? Lionel (yes toy trains)? Lionel T10 led bulbs. you can ge them in red, blue, green, white etc check out sencart.com... direct source?? nfi...just a happy customer ptegler at verizon.net -----Original Message----- From: David Friedlander To: TR3 Triumphs ; New England Triumphs Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 9:47 am Subject: [TR] Litezupp info Hello all; I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have attached the response. Dave Friedlander? ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Mike Sabelhaus Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? To: David Friedlander , Hi David, Thanks for contacting Litezupp. We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting them listed on the web site. ? I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit pricing. We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have our show pricing in effect. Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. ? If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via email where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. ? We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one in my TR3B. ? Regards, Mike S. Litezupp Ind. LLC ? ? ? ? Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit Rear Brake/Run ? LR57RN Rear Turn ? L56RN License Plate ? LDB12WN ? Front Turn/Park ? L57WN Headlamps ? L7NP-H43G ? Dash ? 5 pair LDS12WN -????????? Dash gauges (2) -????????? Tach (2) -????????? Speedo (2) -????????? Ign. Warning (1) -????????? Turn (1) -????????? High Beam (1) Other - Electronic Flasher ? (1) LFM3NG ? Summary - For 12V Negative ground system Function Part # Qty Unit $ Ext $ Rear Brake/Run Red LR57RN 2 24.95 $49.90 Rear Turn Red (Amber?) L56RN 2 19.95 $39.90 License Plate White LDB12WN 1 8.00 $8.00 Front Turn/Park White L57WN 2 19.95 $39.90 Electronic Flasher LFM3NG 1 17.95 $17.95 Dash White - Illum? (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn (1) LDS12WN 4 8.00 $32.00 Headlamps L7NP-H43G 1 125.00 $125.00 TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit $187.65 Show Special 10% off $168.89 TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps $312.65 Show Special 12% off $275.13 ? ? ? From: David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM To: sales at litezupp.com Subject: TR3 Bundle? ? Gentlemen; ? I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative earth. Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) that includes lighting and all necessary hardware for the indicator lights (I already have LED headlights)? ? Thank you,? ? Dave Friedlander? Maine ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Aug 1 11:58:34 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 12:58:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info References: I also have their LED headlights. I never realized how totally worthless the oem headlights were until I was out in the country on a dark and rainy night. I think a flashlight would have been better!!! We switched 2 cars over to the LED headlights. You really don?t even need the brights anymore. It lights up the road like a set of those giant spotlights. I HIGHLY recommend them. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 8:22 AM To: TR3 Triumphs ; New England Triumphs Subject: [TR] Litezupp info Hello all; I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have attached the response. Dave Friedlander ---------- Forwarded message --------- Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? Hi David, Thanks for contacting Litezupp. We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting them listed on the web site. I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit pricing. We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have our show pricing in effect. Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via email where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one in my TR3B. Regards, Mike S. Litezupp Ind. LLC Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit Rear Brake/Run ? LR57RN Rear Turn ? L56RN License Plate ? LDB12WN Front Turn/Park ? L57WN Headlamps ? L7NP-H43G Dash ? 5 pair LDS12WN - Dash gauges (2) - Tach (2) - Speedo (2) - Ign. Warning (1) - Turn (1) - High Beam (1) Other - Electronic Flasher ? (1) LFM3NG Summary - For 12V Negative ground system Function Part # Qty Unit $ Ext $ Rear Brake/Run Red LR57RN 2 24.95 $49.90 Rear Turn Red (Amber?) L56RN 2 19.95 $39.90 License Plate White LDB12WN 1 8.00 $8.00 Front Turn/Park White L57WN 2 19.95 $39.90 Electronic Flasher LFM3NG 1 17.95 $17.95 Dash White - Illum (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn (1) LDS12WN 4 8.00 $32.00 Headlamps L7NP-H43G 1 125.00 $125.00 TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit $187.65 Show Special 10% off $168.89 TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps $312.65 Show Special 12% off $275.13 Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM Subject: TR3 Bundle? Gentlemen; I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative earth. Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) that includes lighting and all necessary hardware for the indicator lights (I already have LED headlights)? Thank you, Dave Friedlander Maine -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Aug 1 18:37:55 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 20:37:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info References: <164f624441f-c8c-a37c@webjas-vac193.srv.aolmail.net> The real trick is finding a 12V dimmer that pulses the negative side,... EG? 12V? >? Dimmer? >? lamps(s)?? >ground many you find are???? 12V? > lamp? >? dimmer? >ground which won't work with grounded sight sockets (hhmmm. perhaps they might on a positive earth early car?..don't know never tested it) what you need to look for the the two 12V contacts next to each other such as https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Aluminium-Single-Channel-Controller/dp/B00JQ437YM?ie=UTF8&keywords=led%20lighting%20dimmer&qid=1460908963&ref_=sr_1_9&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&sr=8-9 https://www.amazon.com/Armacost-Lighting-511120-Led-Dimmer/dp/B01IY81G9S/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168413&sr=1-5&keywords=led+lighting+dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6297546923292665688&pd_rd_wg=JTPFo&pf_rd_r=EV1S9A5D6MF5PCC6TRQA&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B003L4KKF2&pd_rd_w=yENQO&pf_rd_i=led+lighting+dimmer&pd_rd_r=96836585-9976-4561-87be-245cda6e4938&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168489&sr=2 All use a standard? 1/4" split knurled shaft that panel mounts. MORE than enough current for dash lamps of any type http://www.sencart.com/Supply-1157-led-lights_c553 1157--- either of the first two, depending on reflector type of direct light straight out the back E10 (threaded for gauges)? take your pick http://www.sencart.com/Supply-e10-led-bulbs_c585 end+sides or one bright 'end' led see attached pics?? 846.jpg is all whites same 12V supply 867.jpg is red, green blue, white compares to stock bulb @ 12V ptegler On 8/1/2018 12:46 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > Paul; > > No doubt you're right. I have no idea how it is LiteZupp "gets away" > with charging what they do. Perhaps their bulbs are brighter? More > LEDs? > > Folks like me, however, aren't smart enough to put together a list > of equivalent bulbs for a TR3 on our own . What I know about > electronics can fit on the head of a pin. > > Where did you get the flasher? The PWM dimmer? Got some > part numbers?? > > Thanks for any help. > > Dave > '59 TR3A > > > > On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 11:38 AM > $168.00!!!! WOW! > > typical led dash lamps run 5 for sub $4.00, 1156 and 1157 led > bulbs can be had for sub $10 each! > Mine are now several years old and a 10k worth of road vibrations > and all work just fine. > > Only swap is an electronic flasher, and a good pulse width > modulation dimmer for the dash > dash,,,you're actually looking for? Lionel (yes toy trains)? > Lionel T10 led bulbs. > you can ge them in red, blue, green, white etc > > check out sencart.com... direct source?? nfi...just a happy customer > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Friedlander To: TR3 Triumphs Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 9:47 am > Subject: [TR] Litezupp info > > Hello all; > > I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED > conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have > attached the response. > > Dave Friedlander > > ---------- Forwarded message --------- > From: *Mike Sabelhaus* Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM > Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? > To: David Friedlander > > Hi David, > > Thanks for contacting Litezupp. > > We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting them > listed on the web site. > > I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit pricing. > We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have our show > pricing in effect. > > Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. > > If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via email > where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. > > We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one in my > TR3B. > > Regards, > > Mike S. > > Litezupp Ind. LLC > > ** > > *Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit*** > > Rear Brake/Run ? LR57RN > > Rear Turn ? L56RN > > License Plate ? LDB12WN > > Front Turn/Park ? L57WN > > Headlamps ? L7NP-H43G > > Dash ? 5 pair LDS12WN > > -Dash gauges (2) > > -Tach (2) > > -Speedo (2) > > -Ign. Warning (1) > > -Turn (1) > > -High Beam (1) > > Other - Electronic Flasher ? (1) LFM3NG > > *Summary - For 12V Negative ground system* > > > > > > > *Function*** > > > > *Part #* > > > > *Qty* > > > > *Unit $* > > > > *Ext $* > > Rear Brake/Run Red > > > > LR57RN > > > > 2 > > > > 24.95 > > > > $49.90 > > Rear Turn Red (Amber?) > > > > L56RN > > > > 2 > > > > 19.95 > > > > $39.90 > > License Plate White > > > > LDB12WN > > > > 1 > > > > 8.00 > > > > $8.00 > > Front Turn/Park White > > > > L57WN > > > > 2 > > > > 19.95 > > > > $39.90 > > Electronic Flasher > > > > LFM3NG > > > > 1 > > > > 17.95 > > > > $17.95 > > Dash White - Illum? (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn (1) > > > > LDS12WN > > > > 4 > > > > 8.00 > > > > $32.00 > > Headlamps > > > > L7NP-H43G > > > > 1 > > > > 125.00 > > > > $125.00 > > > > > > > > TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit > > > > > > > $187.65 > > *Show Special 10% off* > > > > > > > *$168.89 * > > > > > > > > TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps > > > > > > > $312.65 > > *Show Special 12% off* > > > > > > > *$275.13 * > > > *From:*David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM > *Subject:* TR3 Bundle? > > Gentlemen; > > I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative earth. > Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) that includes > lighting and all necessary hardware for the indicator lights (I > already have LED headlights)? > > Thank you, > > Dave Friedlander > > Maine > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 846.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2004528 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 867.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1683837 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Aug 1 18:44:34 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 20:44:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info References: <164f624441f-c8c-a37c@webjas-vac193.srv.aolmail.net> <63af7a48-596a-5052-265b-42b846354390@verizon.net> ...note #2 just stumbled on this one as well? .....??? schematic looks right!?? ... but no personal info or knowledge https://www.amazon.com/PCA-Electronics-Dimmer-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_rd_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR ptegler On 8/1/2018 8:37 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > The real trick is finding a 12V dimmer that pulses the negative > side,... EG? 12V? >? Dimmer? >? lamps(s)?? >ground > > many you find are???? 12V? > lamp? >? dimmer >ground?? which won't > work with grounded sight sockets > (hhmmm. perhaps they might on a positive earth early car?..don't know > never tested it) > > what you need to look for the the two 12V contacts next to each other > such as > https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Aluminium-Single-Channel-Controller/dp/B00JQ437YM?ie=UTF8&keywords=led%20lighting%20dimmer&qid=1460908963&ref_=sr_1_9&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&sr=8-9 > > https://www.amazon.com/Armacost-Lighting-511120-Led-Dimmer/dp/B01IY81G9S/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168413&sr=1-5&keywords=led+lighting+dimmer > > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6297546923292665688&pd_rd_wg=JTPFo&pf_rd_r=EV1S9A5D6MF5PCC6TRQA&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B003L4KKF2&pd_rd_w=yENQO&pf_rd_i=led+lighting+dimmer&pd_rd_r=96836585-9976-4561-87be-245cda6e4938&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168489&sr=2 > > All use a standard? 1/4" split knurled shaft that panel mounts. MORE > than enough current for dash lamps of any type > > > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-1157-led-lights_c553 > 1157--- either of the first two, depending on reflector type of direct > light straight out the back > > E10 (threaded for gauges)? take your pick > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-e10-led-bulbs_c585 > > end+sides or one bright 'end' led > > see attached pics?? 846.jpg is all whites same 12V supply > 867.jpg is red, green blue, white compares to stock bulb @ 12V > > > > ptegler > > > On 8/1/2018 12:46 PM, David Friedlander wrote: >> Paul; >> >> No doubt you're right. I have no idea how it is LiteZupp "gets away" >> with charging what they do. Perhaps their bulbs are brighter? More >> LEDs? >> >> Folks like me, however, aren't smart enough to put together a list >> of equivalent bulbs for a TR3 on our own . What I know about >> electronics can fit on the head of a pin. >> >> Where did you get the flasher? The PWM dimmer? Got some >> part numbers?? >> >> Thanks for any help. >> >> Dave >> '59 TR3A >> >> >> >> On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 11:38 AM > >> $168.00!!!! WOW! >> >> typical led dash lamps run 5 for sub $4.00, 1156 and 1157 led >> bulbs can be had for sub $10 each! >> Mine are now several years old and a 10k worth of road vibrations >> and all work just fine. >> >> Only swap is an electronic flasher, and a good pulse width >> modulation dimmer for the dash >> dash,,,you're actually looking for? Lionel (yes toy trains)? >> Lionel T10 led bulbs. >> you can ge them in red, blue, green, white etc >> >> check out sencart.com... direct source?? nfi...just a happy customer >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: David Friedlander > To: TR3 Triumphs > Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 9:47 am >> Subject: [TR] Litezupp info >> >> Hello all; >> >> I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED >> conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have >> attached the response. >> >> Dave Friedlander >> >> ---------- Forwarded message --------- >> From: *Mike Sabelhaus* > Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM >> Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? >> To: David Friedlander > >> >> Hi David, >> >> Thanks for contacting Litezupp. >> >> We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting them >> listed on the web site. >> >> I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit pricing. >> We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have our >> show pricing in effect. >> >> Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. >> >> If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via email >> where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. >> >> We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one in >> my TR3B. >> >> Regards, >> >> Mike S. >> >> Litezupp Ind. LLC >> >> ** >> >> *Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit*** >> >> Rear Brake/Run ? LR57RN >> >> Rear Turn ? L56RN >> >> License Plate ? LDB12WN >> >> Front Turn/Park ? L57WN >> >> Headlamps ? L7NP-H43G >> >> Dash ? 5 pair LDS12WN >> >> -Dash gauges (2) >> >> -Tach (2) >> >> -Speedo (2) >> >> -Ign. Warning (1) >> >> -Turn (1) >> >> -High Beam (1) >> >> Other - Electronic Flasher ? (1) LFM3NG >> >> *Summary - For 12V Negative ground system* >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *Function*** >> >> >> >> *Part #* >> >> >> >> *Qty* >> >> >> >> *Unit $* >> >> >> >> *Ext $* >> >> Rear Brake/Run Red >> >> >> >> LR57RN >> >> >> >> 2 >> >> >> >> 24.95 >> >> >> >> $49.90 >> >> Rear Turn Red (Amber?) >> >> >> >> L56RN >> >> >> >> 2 >> >> >> >> 19.95 >> >> >> >> $39.90 >> >> License Plate White >> >> >> >> LDB12WN >> >> >> >> 1 >> >> >> >> 8.00 >> >> >> >> $8.00 >> >> Front Turn/Park White >> >> >> >> L57WN >> >> >> >> 2 >> >> >> >> 19.95 >> >> >> >> $39.90 >> >> Electronic Flasher >> >> >> >> LFM3NG >> >> >> >> 1 >> >> >> >> 17.95 >> >> >> >> $17.95 >> >> Dash White - Illum? (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn (1) >> >> >> >> LDS12WN >> >> >> >> 4 >> >> >> >> 8.00 >> >> >> >> $32.00 >> >> Headlamps >> >> >> >> L7NP-H43G >> >> >> >> 1 >> >> >> >> 125.00 >> >> >> >> $125.00 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit >> >> >> >> >> >> >> $187.65 >> >> *Show Special 10% off* >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *$168.89 * >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps >> >> >> >> >> >> >> $312.65 >> >> *Show Special 12% off* >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *$275.13 * >> >> >> *From:*David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com >> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM >> *Subject:* TR3 Bundle? >> >> Gentlemen; >> >> I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative >> earth. Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) that >> includes lighting and all necessary hardware for the indicator >> lights (I already have LED headlights)? >> >> Thank you, >> >> Dave Friedlander >> >> Maine >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net >> > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 18:57:33 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 20:57:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info References: <164f624441f-c8c-a37c@webjas-vac193.srv.aolmail.net> <63af7a48-596a-5052-265b-42b846354390@verizon.net> <47dd5000-fdfa-f12a-35c0-8c07dd4791bc@verizon.net> Awesome, thanks! Dave On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 8:44 PM Paul Tegler wrote: > ...note #2 > > just stumbled on this one as well ..... schematic looks right! ... > but no personal info or knowledge > > > https://www.amazon.com/PCA-Electronics-Dimmer-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_rd_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR > > > > > > ptegler > > > On 8/1/2018 8:37 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > The real trick is finding a 12V dimmer that pulses the negative side,... > EG 12V > Dimmer > lamps(s) >ground > > many you find are 12V > lamp > dimmer >ground which won't work > with grounded sight sockets > (hhmmm. perhaps they might on a positive earth early car?..don't know > never tested it) > > what you need to look for the the two 12V contacts next to each other such > as > > https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Aluminium-Single-Channel-Controller/dp/B00JQ437YM?ie=UTF8&keywords=led%20lighting%20dimmer&qid=1460908963&ref_=sr_1_9&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&sr=8-9 > > > https://www.amazon.com/Armacost-Lighting-511120-Led-Dimmer/dp/B01IY81G9S/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168413&sr=1-5&keywords=led+lighting+dimmer > > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6297546923292665688&pd_rd_wg=JTPFo&pf_rd_r=EV1S9A5D6MF5PCC6TRQA&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B003L4KKF2&pd_rd_w=yENQO&pf_rd_i=led+lighting+dimmer&pd_rd_r=96836585-9976-4561-87be-245cda6e4938&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168489&sr=2 > > All use a standard 1/4" split knurled shaft that panel mounts. MORE than > enough current for dash lamps of any type > > > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-1157-led-lights_c553 > 1157--- either of the first two, depending on reflector type of direct > light straight out the back > > E10 (threaded for gauges) take your pick > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-e10-led-bulbs_c585 > > end+sides or one bright 'end' led > > see attached pics 846.jpg is all whites same 12V supply > 867.jpg is red, green blue, white compares to stock bulb @ 12V > > > > ptegler > > > On 8/1/2018 12:46 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > > Paul; > > No doubt you're right. I have no idea how it is LiteZupp "gets away" > with charging what they do. Perhaps their bulbs are brighter? More > LEDs? > > Folks like me, however, aren't smart enough to put together a list > of equivalent bulbs for a TR3 on our own . What I know about > electronics can fit on the head of a pin. > > Where did you get the flasher? The PWM dimmer? Got some > part numbers?? > > Thanks for any help. > > Dave > '59 TR3A > > > > On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 11:38 AM wrote: > >> $168.00!!!! WOW! >> >> typical led dash lamps run 5 for sub $4.00, 1156 and 1157 led bulbs can >> be had for sub $10 each! >> Mine are now several years old and a 10k worth of road vibrations and all >> work just fine. >> >> Only swap is an electronic flasher, and a good pulse width modulation >> dimmer for the dash >> dash,,,you're actually looking for Lionel (yes toy trains) Lionel T10 >> led bulbs. >> you can ge them in red, blue, green, white etc >> >> check out sencart.com... direct source nfi...just a happy customer >> >> >> >> >> ptegler at verizon.net >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: David Friedlander >> To: TR3 Triumphs ; New England Triumphs < >> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> >> Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 9:47 am >> Subject: [TR] Litezupp info >> >> Hello all; >> >> I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED conversion on a >> negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have attached the response. >> >> Dave Friedlander >> >> ---------- Forwarded message --------- >> From: *Mike Sabelhaus* >> Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM >> Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? >> To: David Friedlander , >> >> >> Hi David, >> >> Thanks for contacting Litezupp. >> >> We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting them listed >> on the web site. >> >> >> >> I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit pricing. We just >> returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have our show pricing in >> effect. >> >> Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. >> >> >> >> If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via email where >> you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. >> >> >> >> We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one in my TR3B. >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> Mike S. >> >> Litezupp Ind. LLC >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit* >> >> Rear Brake/Run ? LR57RN >> >> Rear Turn ? L56RN >> >> License Plate ? LDB12WN >> >> >> >> Front Turn/Park ? L57WN >> >> Headlamps ? L7NP-H43G >> >> >> >> Dash ? 5 pair LDS12WN >> >> - Dash gauges (2) >> >> - Tach (2) >> >> - Speedo (2) >> >> - Ign. Warning (1) >> >> - Turn (1) >> >> - High Beam (1) >> >> Other - Electronic Flasher ? (1) LFM3NG >> >> >> >> *Summary - For 12V Negative ground system* >> >> >> >> >> *Function* >> >> *Part #* >> >> *Qty* >> >> *Unit $* >> >> *Ext $* >> >> Rear Brake/Run Red >> >> LR57RN >> >> 2 >> >> 24.95 >> >> $49.90 >> >> Rear Turn Red (Amber?) >> >> L56RN >> >> 2 >> >> 19.95 >> >> $39.90 >> >> License Plate White >> >> LDB12WN >> >> 1 >> >> 8.00 >> >> $8.00 >> >> Front Turn/Park White >> >> L57WN >> >> 2 >> >> 19.95 >> >> $39.90 >> >> Electronic Flasher >> >> LFM3NG >> >> 1 >> >> 17.95 >> >> $17.95 >> >> Dash White - Illum (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn (1) >> >> LDS12WN >> >> 4 >> >> 8.00 >> >> $32.00 >> >> Headlamps >> >> L7NP-H43G >> >> 1 >> >> 125.00 >> >> $125.00 >> >> >> >> >> >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit >> >> >> >> $187.65 >> >> *Show Special 10% off* >> >> >> >> *$168.89 * >> >> >> >> >> >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps >> >> >> >> $312.65 >> >> *Show Special 12% off* >> >> >> >> *$275.13 * >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com] >> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM >> *To:* sales at litezupp.com >> *Subject:* TR3 Bundle? >> >> >> >> Gentlemen; >> >> >> >> I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative earth. Do you >> have an LED bundle (or can you create one) that includes lighting and all >> necessary hardware for the indicator lights (I already have LED headlights)? >> >> >> >> Thank you, >> >> >> >> Dave Friedlander >> >> Maine >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net >> > > -- > Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > > -- > Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Wed Aug 1 20:37:07 2018 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 02:37:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? I have a set of aluminum sidescreens where the frames are all one piece (dzus style attachment) and we have been having a discussion amongst our club about another design with wedge style fittings where the legs of the frames are separate. That opens the question of how many different aftermarket sidescreens were there ?. Stan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gandcanderson at comcast.net Thu Aug 2 06:50:02 2018 From: gandcanderson at comcast.net (gandcanderson at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 12:50:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? References: I know there was at least one aftermarket wedge side curtains available through JC Whitney. They were aluminum where the legs were separate as you described below. I have a set and they are junk. The Roadster Factory talks about these on the TRF Web site. Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stan Foster" To: "TR owners List" Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 9:37:07 PM Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? I have a set of aluminum sidescreens where the frames are all one piece (dzus style attachment) and we have been having a discussion amongst our club about another design with wedge style fittings where the legs of the frames are separate. That opens the question of how many different aftermarket sidescreens were there ?. Stan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sassamon.ma at verizon.net Thu Aug 2 07:10:25 2018 From: sassamon.ma at verizon.net (Roger Colson) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2018 09:10:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info References: , <63af7a48-596a-5052-265b-42b846354390@verizon.net>, <47dd5000-fdfa-f12a-35c0-8c07dd4791bc@verizon.net> Paul, Dave, On our Triumphs the dash lights are fed from the hot side of the battery and then through the lamps to ground. When looking at the schematic I notice the controller is in the -12Volt leg of the circuit. On a negative ground vehicle -12Volt is Ground. While on a positive ground vehicle +12Volt is ground. On a stock positive ground Triumph this controller may work quite nicely. While on a negative ground Triumph it would be almost impossible to splice this controller into the lamp circuit. The biggest problem is that the lamp sockets are connected directly to ground by their design. The lamp sockets are of a one wire design so they rely on connection to the instrument panel or the speedometer tachometer body as the return to ground. Almost impossible to get the controller into that part of the circuit. On more modern cars the instrument lights are fitted with two leads so they can easily be adapted for the controller. Roger > ...note #2 > > just stumbled on this one as well??? .....????????? schematic looks > right!?????? ... > but no personal info or knowledge > > https://www.amazon.com/PCA-Electronics-Dimmer-Halogen-Incandescent/d > p/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_r > d_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID=E > PCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR > > > dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_ > rd_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID= > EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR> > > ptegler > dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_ > rd_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID= > EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR> > > > On 8/1/2018 8:37 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > > > The real trick is finding a 12V dimmer that pulses the negative > > side,... EG??? 12V??? >??? Dimmer??? >??? lamps(s)?????? >ground > > > > many you find are???????????? 12V??? > lamp??? >??? dimmer >ground?????? > which won't > > work with grounded sight sockets > > (hhmmm. perhaps they might on a positive earth early car?..don't > know > > never tested it) > > > > what you need to look for the the two 12V contacts next to each > other > > such as > > > https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Aluminium-Single-Channel-Controlle > r/dp/B00JQ437YM?ie=UTF8&keywords=led%20lighting%20dimmer&qid=1460908 > 963&ref_=sr_1_9&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&sr=8-9 > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/Armacost-Lighting-511120-Led-Dimmer/dp/B01IY8 > 1G9S/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168413&sr=1-5&keywords=led+ligh > ting+dimmer > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m > =ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6297546923292665688&pd_rd_wg=JTPFo&pf_rd_r=EV > 1S9A5D6MF5PCC6TRQA&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_ > i=B003L4KKF2&pd_rd_w=yENQO&pf_rd_i=led+lighting+dimmer&pd_rd_r=96836 > 585-9976-4561-87be-245cda6e4938&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168489&sr=2 > > > > All use a standard??? 1/4" split knurled shaft that panel mounts. > MORE > > than enough current for dash lamps of any type > > > > > > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-1157-led-lights_c553 > > 1157--- either of the first two, depending on reflector type of > direct > > light straight out the back > > > > E10 (threaded for gauges)??? take your pick > > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-e10-led-bulbs_c585 > > > > end+sides or one bright 'end' led > > > > see attached pics?????? 846.jpg is all whites same 12V supply > > 867.jpg is red, green blue, white compares to stock bulb @ 12V > > > > > > > > ptegler > > > > > > On 8/1/2018 12:46 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > >> Paul; > >> > >> No doubt you're right. I have no idea how it is LiteZupp "gets > away" > >> with charging what they do. Perhaps their bulbs are brighter? > More > >> LEDs? > >> > >> Folks like me, however, aren't smart enough to put together a > list > >> of equivalent bulbs for a TR3 on our own . What I know about > >> electronics can fit on the head of a pin. > >> > >> Where did you get the flasher? The PWM dimmer? Got some > >> part numbers?? > >> > >> Thanks for any help. > >> > >> Dave > >> '59 TR3A > >> > >> > >> > >> On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 11:38 AM >> > >> $168.00!!!! WOW! > >> > >> typical led dash lamps run 5 for sub $4.00, 1156 and 1157 > led > >> bulbs can be had for sub $10 each! > >> Mine are now several years old and a 10k worth of road > vibrations > >> and all work just fine. > >> > >> Only swap is an electronic flasher, and a good pulse width > >> modulation dimmer for the dash > >> dash,,,you're actually looking for??? Lionel (yes toy > trains)??? > >> Lionel T10 led bulbs. > >> you can ge them in red, blue, green, white etc > >> > >> check out sencart.com... direct source?????? nfi...just a happy > customer > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: David Friedlander >> To: TR3 Triumphs >> >> Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 9:47 am > >> Subject: [TR] Litezupp info > >> > >> Hello all; > >> > >> I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED > >> conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have > >> attached the response. > >> > >> Dave Friedlander > >> > >> ---------- Forwarded message --------- > >> From: *Mike Sabelhaus* >> Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM > >> Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? > >> To: David Friedlander >> > >> > >> Hi David, > >> > >> Thanks for contacting Litezupp. > >> > >> We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting > them > >> listed on the web site. > >> > >> I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit > pricing. > >> We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have > our > >> show pricing in effect. > >> > >> Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. > >> > >> If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via > email > >> where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. > >> > >> We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one > in > >> my TR3B. > >> > >> Regards, > >> > >> Mike S. > >> > >> Litezupp Ind. LLC > >> > >> ** > >> > >> *Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit*** > >> > >> Rear Brake/Run - LR57RN > >> > >> Rear Turn - L56RN > >> > >> License Plate - LDB12WN > >> > >> Front Turn/Park - L57WN > >> > >> Headlamps - L7NP-H43G > >> > >> Dash - 5 pair LDS12WN > >> > >> -Dash gauges (2) > >> > >> -Tach (2) > >> > >> -Speedo (2) > >> > >> -Ign. Warning (1) > >> > >> -Turn (1) > >> > >> -High Beam (1) > >> > >> Other - Electronic Flasher - (1) LFM3NG > >> > >> *Summary - For 12V Negative ground system* > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> *Function*** > >> > >> > >> > >> *Part #* > >> > >> > >> > >> *Qty* > >> > >> > >> > >> *Unit $* > >> > >> > >> > >> *Ext $* > >> > >> Rear Brake/Run Red > >> > >> > >> > >> LR57RN > >> > >> > >> > >> 2 > >> > >> > >> > >> 24.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $49.90 > >> > >> Rear Turn Red (Amber?) > >> > >> > >> > >> L56RN > >> > >> > >> > >> 2 > >> > >> > >> > >> 19.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $39.90 > >> > >> License Plate White > >> > >> > >> > >> LDB12WN > >> > >> > >> > >> 1 > >> > >> > >> > >> 8.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> $8.00 > >> > >> Front Turn/Park White > >> > >> > >> > >> L57WN > >> > >> > >> > >> 2 > >> > >> > >> > >> 19.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $39.90 > >> > >> Electronic Flasher > >> > >> > >> > >> LFM3NG > >> > >> > >> > >> 1 > >> > >> > >> > >> 17.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $17.95 > >> > >> Dash White - Illum??? (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn > (1) > >> > >> > >> > >> LDS12WN > >> > >> > >> > >> 4 > >> > >> > >> > >> 8.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> $32.00 > >> > >> Headlamps > >> > >> > >> > >> L7NP-H43G > >> > >> > >> > >> 1 > >> > >> > >> > >> 125.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> $125.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> $187.65 > >> > >> *Show Special 10% off* > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> *$168.89 * > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> $312.65 > >> > >> *Show Special 12% off* > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> *$275.13 * > >> > >> > >> *From:*David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com > >> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM > >> *Subject:* TR3 Bundle? > >> > >> Gentlemen; > >> > >> I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative > >> earth. Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) > that > >> includes lighting and all necessary hardware for the > indicator > >> lights (I already have LED headlights)? > >> > >> Thank you, > >> > >> Dave Friedlander > >> > >> Maine > >> > >> > ** > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > >> > > > > -- > > Paul Tegler > > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > Roger Colson 57 TR3 TS21383L "Bettie" sassamon.ma at verizon.net From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 2 08:58:47 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 09:58:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? References: Hi Stan, I had a set that fit that description on a previous TR3, now sold. They came from Vilem B. Haan in California. Yes, the legs and frames were separate so I suppose that if a wedge style leg was available it would easily bolt on to the same frame. Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stan Foster Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 9:37 PM To: 'TR owners List' Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? I have a set of aluminum sidescreens where the frames are all one piece (dzus style attachment) and we have been having a discussion amongst our club about another design with wedge style fittings where the legs of the frames are separate. That opens the question of how many different aftermarket sidescreens were there ?. Stan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JimClarGloves.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 498521 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Thu Aug 2 10:56:50 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 12:56:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Litezupp info quite correct....that last unit noted is NOT correct for a neg earth car. ptegler at verizon.net -----Original Message----- From: Roger Colson To: Paul Tegler ; Triumphs ; David Friedlander ; triumphs Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2018 9:10 am Subject: Re: [TR] Litezupp info Paul, Dave, On our Triumphs the dash lights are fed from the hot side of the battery and then through the lamps to ground. When looking at the schematic I notice the controller is in the -12Volt leg of the circuit. On a negative ground vehicle -12Volt is Ground. While on a positive ground vehicle +12Volt is ground. On a stock positive ground Triumph this controller may work quite nicely. While on a negative ground Triumph it would be almost impossible to splice this controller into the lamp circuit. The biggest problem is that the lamp sockets are connected directly to ground by their design. The lamp sockets are of a one wire design so they rely on connection to the instrument panel or the speedometer tachometer body as the return to ground. Almost impossible to get the controller into that part of the circuit. On more modern cars the instrument lights are fitted with two leads so they can easily be adapted for the controller. Roger > ...note #2 > > just stumbled on this one as well? .....??? schematic looks > right!?? ... > but no personal info or knowledge > > https://www.amazon.com/PCA-Electronics-Dimmer-Halogen-Incandescent/d > p/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_r > d_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID=E > PCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR > > > dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_ > rd_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID= > EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR> > > ptegler > dp/B01C4UBMY6/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C4UBMY6&pd_ > rd_r=EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR&pd_rd_w=aOxdU&pd_rd_wg=4jNw3&psc=1&refRID= > EPCA1PQ9SD14ATKVBECR> > > > On 8/1/2018 8:37 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > > > The real trick is finding a 12V dimmer that pulses the negative > > side,... EG? 12V? >? Dimmer? >? lamps(s)?? >ground > > > > many you find are???? 12V? > lamp? >? dimmer >ground?? > which won't > > work with grounded sight sockets > > (hhmmm. perhaps they might on a positive earth early car?..don't > know > > never tested it) > > > > what you need to look for the the two 12V contacts next to each > other > > such as > > > https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Aluminium-Single-Channel-Controlle > r/dp/B00JQ437YM?ie=UTF8&keywords=led%20lighting%20dimmer&qid=1460908 > 963&ref_=sr_1_9&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rps=1&sr=8-9 > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/Armacost-Lighting-511120-Led-Dimmer/dp/B01IY8 > 1G9S/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168413&sr=1-5&keywords=led+ligh > ting+dimmer > > > > > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m > =ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6297546923292665688&pd_rd_wg=JTPFo&pf_rd_r=EV > 1S9A5D6MF5PCC6TRQA&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_ > i=B003L4KKF2&pd_rd_w=yENQO&pf_rd_i=led+lighting+dimmer&pd_rd_r=96836 > 585-9976-4561-87be-245cda6e4938&ie=UTF8&qid=1533168489&sr=2 > > > > All use a standard? 1/4" split knurled shaft that panel mounts. > MORE > > than enough current for dash lamps of any type > > > > > > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-1157-led-lights_c553 > > 1157--- either of the first two, depending on reflector type of > direct > > light straight out the back > > > > E10 (threaded for gauges)? take your pick > > http://www.sencart.com/Supply-e10-led-bulbs_c585 > > > > end+sides or one bright 'end' led > > > > see attached pics?? 846.jpg is all whites same 12V supply > > 867.jpg is red, green blue, white compares to stock bulb @ 12V > > > > > > > > ptegler > > > > > > On 8/1/2018 12:46 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > >> Paul; > >> > >> No doubt you're right. I have no idea how it is LiteZupp "gets > away" > >> with charging what they do. Perhaps their bulbs are brighter? > More > >> LEDs? > >> > >> Folks like me, however, aren't smart enough to put together a > list > >> of equivalent bulbs for a TR3 on our own . What I know about > >> electronics can fit on the head of a pin. > >> > >> Where did you get the flasher? The PWM dimmer? Got some > >> part numbers?? > >> > >> Thanks for any help. > >> > >> Dave > >> '59 TR3A > >> > >> > >> > >> On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 11:38 AM >> > >> $168.00!!!! WOW! > >> > >> typical led dash lamps run 5 for sub $4.00, 1156 and 1157 > led > >> bulbs can be had for sub $10 each! > >> Mine are now several years old and a 10k worth of road > vibrations > >> and all work just fine. > >> > >> Only swap is an electronic flasher, and a good pulse width > >> modulation dimmer for the dash > >> dash,,,you're actually looking for? Lionel (yes toy > trains)? > >> Lionel T10 led bulbs. > >> you can ge them in red, blue, green, white etc > >> > >> check out sencart.com... direct source?? nfi...just a happy > customer > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: David Friedlander >> To: TR3 Triumphs >> >> Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 9:47 am > >> Subject: [TR] Litezupp info > >> > >> Hello all; > >> > >> I checked in with Litezupp for a package price for an LED > >> conversion on a negative-earth-converted TR3. FEIW , I have > >> attached the response. > >> > >> Dave Friedlander > >> > >> ---------- Forwarded message --------- > >> From: *Mike Sabelhaus* >> Date: Wed, Aug 1, 2018, 8:59 AM > >> Subject: RE: TR3 Bundle? > >> To: David Friedlander >> > >> > >> Hi David, > >> > >> Thanks for contacting Litezupp. > >> > >> We do have TR3 through TR7/8 kits but I am behind in getting > them > >> listed on the web site. > >> > >> I have included a brochure with TR3 negative ground kit > pricing. > >> We just returned from VTR2018 in Wisconsin and still have > our > >> show pricing in effect. > >> > >> Kit without LED headlamps is $168.89. > >> > >> If interested let me know and I can send you an invoice via > email > >> where you can pay with credit card or a PayPal account. > >> > >> We have sold a lot of these kits for Triumphs and I have one > in > >> my TR3B. > >> > >> Regards, > >> > >> Mike S. > >> > >> Litezupp Ind. LLC > >> > >> ** > >> > >> *Litezupp TR3A/B LED Kit*** > >> > >> Rear Brake/Run - LR57RN > >> > >> Rear Turn - L56RN > >> > >> License Plate - LDB12WN > >> > >> Front Turn/Park - L57WN > >> > >> Headlamps - L7NP-H43G > >> > >> Dash - 5 pair LDS12WN > >> > >> -Dash gauges (2) > >> > >> -Tach (2) > >> > >> -Speedo (2) > >> > >> -Ign. Warning (1) > >> > >> -Turn (1) > >> > >> -High Beam (1) > >> > >> Other - Electronic Flasher - (1) LFM3NG > >> > >> *Summary - For 12V Negative ground system* > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> *Function*** > >> > >> > >> > >> *Part #* > >> > >> > >> > >> *Qty* > >> > >> > >> > >> *Unit $* > >> > >> > >> > >> *Ext $* > >> > >> Rear Brake/Run Red > >> > >> > >> > >> LR57RN > >> > >> > >> > >> 2 > >> > >> > >> > >> 24.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $49.90 > >> > >> Rear Turn Red (Amber?) > >> > >> > >> > >> L56RN > >> > >> > >> > >> 2 > >> > >> > >> > >> 19.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $39.90 > >> > >> License Plate White > >> > >> > >> > >> LDB12WN > >> > >> > >> > >> 1 > >> > >> > >> > >> 8.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> $8.00 > >> > >> Front Turn/Park White > >> > >> > >> > >> L57WN > >> > >> > >> > >> 2 > >> > >> > >> > >> 19.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $39.90 > >> > >> Electronic Flasher > >> > >> > >> > >> LFM3NG > >> > >> > >> > >> 1 > >> > >> > >> > >> 17.95 > >> > >> > >> > >> $17.95 > >> > >> Dash White - Illum? (2), Tach (2), Speedo (2), Ign (1), Turn > (1) > >> > >> > >> > >> LDS12WN > >> > >> > >> > >> 4 > >> > >> > >> > >> 8.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> $32.00 > >> > >> Headlamps > >> > >> > >> > >> L7NP-H43G > >> > >> > >> > >> 1 > >> > >> > >> > >> 125.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> $125.00 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> $187.65 > >> > >> *Show Special 10% off* > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> *$168.89 * > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> TR3A/B Neg Gnd Kit with Headlamps > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> $312.65 > >> > >> *Show Special 12% off* > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> *$275.13 * > >> > >> > >> *From:*David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com > >> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 7:46 AM > >> *Subject:* TR3 Bundle? > >> > >> Gentlemen; > >> > >> I have a 1959 Triumph TR3 that's been converted to negative > >> earth. Do you have an LED bundle (or can you create one) > that > >> includes lighting and all necessary hardware for the > indicator > >> lights (I already have LED headlights)? > >> > >> Thank you, > >> > >> Dave Friedlander > >> > >> Maine > >> > >> > ** > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > >> > > > > -- > > Paul Tegler > > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > Roger Colson 57 TR3 TS21383L "Bettie" sassamon.ma at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Thu Aug 2 13:51:52 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 14:51:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: Re: Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? I believe this is what you are talking about? As you can see in the picture, these have been gathering dust in my garage. They are definitely for sale. The vinyl is in good shape. They need a 4th leg, but that shouldn't be too hard to fabricate. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180802_144808.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3343557 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 2 16:59:50 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 15:59:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? References: <000601d42a71$574e5750$05eb05f0$@flash.net> Bill - I was on a JCWhitney budget back then but did get the Vilem B Haan items from time to time. I still have a pair of those Jim Clark gloves (the original, repros are now available) -- paper thin kangaroo skin and only used now for special occasions. [image: JimClarGloves (1).jpg] Geo On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 11:55 AM wbeech wrote: > Hi Stan, > > I had a set that fit that description on a previous TR3, now sold. They > came from Vilem B. Haan in California. Yes, the legs and frames were > separate so I suppose that if a wedge style leg was available it would > easily bolt on to the same frame. > > Bill > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Stan > Foster > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 9:37 PM > *To:* 'TR owners List' > *Subject:* [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? > > > > I have a set of aluminum sidescreens where the frames are all one piece > (dzus style attachment) and we have been having a discussion amongst our > club about another design with wedge style fittings where the legs of the > frames are separate. That opens the question of how many different > aftermarket sidescreens were there ?. > > > > Stan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JimClarGloves (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 498521 bytes Desc: not available URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Aug 2 21:20:18 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 22:20:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: Re: Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? References: <00ac01d42a9a$42c47b10$c84d7130$@ranteer.com> Yep, that?s what I had on my TR3. Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 2, 2018, at 2:51 PM, dave wrote: I believe this is what you are talking about? As you can see in the picture, these have been gathering dust in my garage. They are definitely for sale. The vinyl is in good shape. They need a 4th leg, but that shouldn?t be too hard to fabricate. <20180802_144808.jpg> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From l1j1s at aol.com Sat Aug 4 07:45:02 2018 From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawrence Schwartz) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2018 09:45:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic List , Would like to know here in the States which States have the most Triumphs ownership. Can anyone help? Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone From dave at ranteer.com Sat Aug 4 09:04:47 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2018 10:04:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic Just a guess: California,? due to its size, population,? and the favorable (no salt on the road) climate.? ?I remember reading that a large number of cars went there originally.? I would also say Texas, again size and population - there are Triumph clubs in each of the major cities, and it,? too has a no salt climate. A good indicator would be to ask VTR for the membership rosters. -------- Original message --------From: Lawrence Schwartz Date: 8/4/18 8:45 AM (GMT-06:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic List , Would like to know here in the States which States have the most Triumphs ownership. Can anyone help? Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sat Aug 4 10:28:10 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2018 12:28:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic References: <20180804161052.E91402585980@autox.team.net> ..seem to remember years back this Q being raised...most Triumphs came in through NJ with many going to the east coast distribution points (same too for MG.... and Healey?) ptegler On 8/4/2018 11:04 AM, dave wrote: > Just a guess: California,? due to its size, population,? and the > favorable (no salt on the road) climate.? ?I remember reading that a > large number of cars went there originally. > > I would also say Texas, again size and population - there are Triumph > clubs in each of the major cities, and it,? too has a no salt climate. > > A good indicator would be to ask VTR for the membership rosters. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Lawrence Schwartz > Date: 8/4/18 8:45 AM (GMT-06:00) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic > > List , Would like to know here in the States which States have the > most Triumphs ownership. Can anyone help? Larry Schwartz > > Sent from my iPhone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From timipurdy at citlink.net Sat Aug 4 12:44:58 2018 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2018 11:44:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic References: <20180804161052.E91402585980@autox.team.net> Well, excuse me, but I live in California where the first snow occurs in November, sometimes earlier, and usually the last snow in April, and some times later. Where I am in Northeastern California I have seen it snow every month of the year. My TR4 was purchased brand new in San Francisco and has been in snow country ever since. Tim > On Aug 4, 2018, at 9:28 AM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > ..seem to remember years back this Q being raised...most Triumphs came in through NJ with many going to the east coast distribution points > (same too for MG.... and Healey?) > > ptegler > >> On 8/4/2018 11:04 AM, dave wrote: >> Just a guess: California, due to its size, population, and the favorable (no salt on the road) climate. I remember reading that a large number of cars went there originally. >> >> I would also say Texas, again size and population - there are Triumph clubs in each of the major cities, and it, too has a no salt climate. >> >> A good indicator would be to ask VTR for the membership rosters. >> >> -------- Original message -------- >> From: Lawrence Schwartz >> Date: 8/4/18 8:45 AM (GMT-06:00) >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic >> >> List , Would like to know here in the States which States have the most Triumphs ownership. Can anyone help? Larry Schwartz >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timipurdy at citlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joemato at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 4 13:48:53 2018 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2018 19:48:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR's in CT References: <252754732.2096837.1533412133712.ref@mail.yahoo.com> ?I have been seeing many TR's here since I can remember. We had 4-5 at my high school and a MGA with a wooden floor. The importers were in NYC which helped and there were the races at Lime Rock which were a weekend destination. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 5 07:16:19 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2018 06:16:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic References: <20180804161052.E91402585980@autox.team.net> Nothing to prove it - but it always seemed like a disproportionate number went to or at least ended up in Ohio. Oh, just call it the 'Householder' effect. Certainly Dorothy Dean's Cal Sales (L.A.) moved a lot of cars so for a current total I would guess California. Even my TR3A that I bought 38 years ago in Indiana originated with Cal Sales. I guess if I ever sell it I can call it a 'California car'. BTW - I suspect more TRs were 'killed' by rain-soaked interiors than salted roads. Geo On Sat, Aug 4, 2018 at 1:01 PM Tim Purdy wrote: > Well, excuse me, but I live in California where the first snow occurs in > November, sometimes earlier, and usually the last snow in April, and some > times later. Where I am in Northeastern California I have seen it snow > every month of the year. My TR4 was purchased brand new in San Francisco > and has been in snow country ever since. > > Tim > > On Aug 4, 2018, at 9:28 AM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > ..seem to remember years back this Q being raised...most Triumphs came in > through NJ with many going to the east coast distribution points > (same too for MG.... and Healey?) > > ptegler > > On 8/4/2018 11:04 AM, dave wrote: > > Just a guess: California, due to its size, population, and the favorable > (no salt on the road) climate. I remember reading that a large number of > cars went there originally. > > I would also say Texas, again size and population - there are Triumph > clubs in each of the major cities, and it, too has a no salt climate. > > A good indicator would be to ask VTR for the membership rosters. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Lawrence Schwartz > Date: 8/4/18 8:45 AM (GMT-06:00) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Tr-Triumphs demographic > > List , Would like to know here in the States which States have the most > Triumphs ownership. Can anyone help? Larry Schwartz > > Sent from my iPhone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > > -- > Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timipurdy at citlink.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joemato at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 5 15:37:53 2018 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2018 21:37:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 References: Window covers. The most widely used were JC Whitney of Chicago which were pretty ugly. From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 3, 2018 8:05 PM Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? (Geo Hahn) ? 2. Re: FW: Re:? Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? (Wbeech at flash.net) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 15:59:50 -0700 From: Geo Hahn To: "Wbeech at flash.net" Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? Message-ID: ??? Bill - I was on a JCWhitney budget back then but did get the Vilem B Haan items from time to time.? I still have a pair of those Jim Clark gloves (the original, repros are now available) -- paper thin kangaroo skin and only used now for special occasions. [image: JimClarGloves (1).jpg] Geo On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 11:55 AM wbeech wrote: > Hi Stan, > > I had a set that fit that description on a previous TR3, now sold.? They > came from Vilem B. Haan in California.? Yes, the legs and frames were > separate so I suppose that if a wedge style leg was available it would > easily bolt on to the same frame. > > Bill > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Stan > Foster > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 9:37 PM > *To:* 'TR owners List' > *Subject:* [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? > > > > I have a set of aluminum sidescreens where the frames are all one piece > (dzus style attachment) and we have been having a discussion amongst our > club about another design with wedge style fittings where the legs of the > frames are separate. That opens the question of how many different > aftermarket sidescreens were there ?. > > > > Stan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JimClarGloves (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 498521 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 22:20:18 -0500 From: "Wbeech at flash.net" To: dave Cc: TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Re:? Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? Yep, that?s what I had on my TR3. Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 2, 2018, at 2:51 PM, dave wrote: I believe this is what you are talking about?? As you can see in the picture, these have been gathering dust in my garage.? They are definitely for sale.? The vinyl is in good shape.? They need a 4th leg, but that shouldn?t be too hard to fabricate. <20180802_144808.jpg> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 ***************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From will.daehler at gmail.com Mon Aug 6 15:50:13 2018 From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 16:50:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block Hi fellow 'listers. I'm looking at this ENGINE BLOCK, it has the stamped numbers of TS 36570 E What vehicle and vehicle year could this have come from? TR3, TR3A, TR3B ? TR4 ? TR4 A ? I already looked at the table of Moss numbers, and googled around a bit, with no luck. Will Daehler 63 TR4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Mon Aug 6 17:51:26 2018 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 23:51:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block References: <000001d42dcf$7510c320$5f324960$@gmail.com> Guessing TR3A, mid 1958. On My 1960 car the engine number and the commission number are within a few hundred of each other. Stan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Will Daehler Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 5:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block Hi fellow 'listers. I'm looking at this ENGINE BLOCK, it has the stamped numbers of TS 36570 E What vehicle and vehicle year could this have come from? TR3, TR3A, TR3B ? TR4 ? TR4 A ? I already looked at the table of Moss numbers, and googled around a bit, with no luck. Will Daehler 63 TR4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Aug 6 18:04:26 2018 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 20:04:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for Chuck Menge Listers, I am looking for Chuck menge (not sure of the spelling) but he resides in Los Angeles, has a beautiful early red round tail Spitfire (with the weld flanges ground smooth on a GT6 bonnet) with a Ford V6 installed been at several Triumphests. He tried to call me today, but got cut off just before I could get his e-mail He had a few questions for me ? If anybody can give me his email, or contact info (off list) I would be much appreciated. Barry Schwartz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 6 18:27:09 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 19:27:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block References: <000001d42dcf$7510c320$5f324960$@gmail.com> TR3A 1958 Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 6, 2018, at 4:50 PM, Will Daehler wrote: Hi fellow ?listers. I?m looking at this ENGINE BLOCK, it has the stamped numbers of TS 36570 E What vehicle and vehicle year could this have come from? TR3, TR3A, TR3B ? TR4 ? TR4 A ? I already looked at the table of Moss numbers, and googled around a bit, with no luck. Will Daehler 63 TR4 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gandcanderson at comcast.net Mon Aug 6 19:57:03 2018 From: gandcanderson at comcast.net (gandcanderson at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 01:57:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block References: <000001d42dcf$7510c320$5f324960$@gmail.com> Typically the engine block will be within the approximate range of the commission number with the block number being ahead of the commission number because the engines were also used in other applications too. Broadly speaking, I would think an engine block stamped with TS36570E would be installed in a TR3 with a commission number in approximately the 34,000 range or so. Doing a quick search I see the 1958 TR3A commission numbers were from TS25633 to TS41629 which puts this engine into the middle of this range. So, it looks like it's from a 1958 TR3A. Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Will Daehler" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 4:50:13 PM Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block Hi fellow ?listers. I?m looking at this ENGINE BLOCK, it has the stamped numbers of TS 36570 E What vehicle and vehicle year could this have come from? TR3, TR3A, TR3B ? TR4 ? TR4 A ? I already looked at the table of Moss numbers, and googled around a bit, with no luck. Will Daehler 63 TR4 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 04:43:14 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 05:43:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block References: <000001d42dcf$7510c320$5f324960$@gmail.com> TR3A, built sometime around August or September 58. Doesn't matter a lot, though, the block casting was identical AFAIK for all the models you mentioned. Ancillaries like flywheel, starter, front plate, carbs, manifolds and so on all changed, but the blocks remained the same. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Will Daehler > Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 4:50 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Early Triumph engine block > > Hi fellow 'listers. > > > > I'm looking at this ENGINE BLOCK, it has the stamped numbers > of TS 36570 E > > > > What vehicle and vehicle year could this have come from? > TR3, TR3A, TR3B ? TR4 ? TR4 A ? > > > > I already looked at the table of Moss numbers, and googled > around a bit, with no luck. > > > > Will Daehler > > 63 TR4 > > > > > > From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 11:43:34 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 17:43:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: Dear All, Back from a week in the Bahamas..ahhhhh.... The new timing chain and sprokets are on.? The cover has been degreased and is ready for external black enamel paint. I dug out the old oil seal from the cover.? Crumbled pieces came out and scraped as much as I could out of there (old spring came out also) I would like to ask the group for any suggestions on how to get the new oil seal into the cover.? The manual says from the rear of the cover with the spring facing forward tap the seal into the opening with a tapping tool (i.e. piece of wood) and hammer. The seal has a diameter of about 2.5 inches and is not flexible but the inner diameter of the opening is about 2 inches. Any hints on how to do this?? It seems to defy the laws of physics. Thanks folksErkan From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 4:19 PM Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 196 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 (JOSEPH MATO) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2018 21:37:53 +0000 (UTC) From: JOSEPH MATO To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 Window covers. The most widely used were JC Whitney of Chicago which were pretty ugly. ? ? ? From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 3, 2018 8:05 PM Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 ? Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? (Geo Hahn) ? 2. Re: FW: Re:? Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? (Wbeech at flash.net) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 15:59:50 -0700 From: Geo Hahn To: "Wbeech at flash.net" Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? Message-ID: ??? Bill - I was on a JCWhitney budget back then but did get the Vilem B Haan items from time to time.? I still have a pair of those Jim Clark gloves (the original, repros are now available) -- paper thin kangaroo skin and only used now for special occasions. [image: JimClarGloves (1).jpg] Geo On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 11:55 AM wbeech wrote: > Hi Stan, > > I had a set that fit that description on a previous TR3, now sold.? They > came from Vilem B. Haan in California.? Yes, the legs and frames were > separate so I suppose that if a wedge style leg was available it would > easily bolt on to the same frame. > > Bill > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Stan > Foster > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2018 9:37 PM > *To:* 'TR owners List' > *Subject:* [TR] Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? > > > > I have a set of aluminum sidescreens where the frames are all one piece > (dzus style attachment) and we have been having a discussion amongst our > club about another design with wedge style fittings where the legs of the > frames are separate. That opens the question of how many different > aftermarket sidescreens were there ?. > > > > Stan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JimClarGloves (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 498521 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 22:20:18 -0500 From: "Wbeech at flash.net" To: dave Cc: TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Re:? Aftermarket TR2/TR3 sidescreens ? Yep, that?s what I had on my TR3. Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 2, 2018, at 2:51 PM, dave wrote: I believe this is what you are talking about?? As you can see in the picture, these have been gathering dust in my garage.? They are definitely for sale.? The vinyl is in good shape.? They need a 4th leg, but that shouldn?t be too hard to fabricate. <20180802_144808.jpg> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 193 ***************************************** ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 196 ***************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 11:55:09 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 10:55:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 12:06:03 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 11:06:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Emission stuff help for a 71 Triumph Stag For those of you how have a '71 Stag, can you please help me answer the following two questions: On your '71 Stag. Do you have two 2 top port carbon canisters or do you have one 3 top port canister? If you have a 3 are the ports horizontal or vertical ? My May '71 has 1 three port canister Also, does your '71 have float vent valves in the carbs? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 14:14:18 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 15:14:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: I'm still here, and still a Stag owner at the moment. Been thinking about putting both of them up for sale, but haven't taken the plunge yet. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Sujit Roy > Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 12:55 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum > > > > Sujit > > > -- > > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 14:17:32 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 15:17:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> > I dug out the old oil seal from the cover. Crumbled pieces > came out and scraped as much as I could out of there (old > spring came out also) > > The seal has a diameter of about 2.5 inches and is not > flexible but the inner diameter of the opening is about 2 inches. My guess is that you haven't removed all of the old seal. It should have an outer ring, which is probably steel and might look like part of the cover. -- Randall From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 14:20:51 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 16:20:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> Hmmm...sounds about right Will try to remove the steel ring...don?t want to break anything Does the steel ring go back on with the new seal or just the plastic piece?? Thanks Erkan Sent from my iPhone On Aug 7, 2018, at 4:17 PM, Randall wrote: >> I dug out the old oil seal from the cover. Crumbled pieces >> came out and scraped as much as I could out of there (old >> spring came out also) >> > >> The seal has a diameter of about 2.5 inches and is not >> flexible but the inner diameter of the opening is about 2 inches. > > My guess is that you haven't removed all of the old seal. It should have an > outer ring, which is probably steel and might look like part of the cover. > > -- Randall > From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 14:51:02 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 13:51:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 12:05 PM Erkan Hassan wrote: > ...I dug out the old oil seal from the cover. Crumbled pieces came out > and scraped as much as I could out of there...The seal has a diameter of > about 2.5 inches and is not flexible but the inner diameter of the opening > is about 2 inches... > I wonder if you got the entire old seal out - or maybe you just tore out the rubber bit? Geo -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From HDRider570 at att.net Tue Aug 7 15:59:52 2018 From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 14:59:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal Sounds like the outer portion of the old seal is still in place. It is a rubber covered steel band that holds the seal into the timing cover. If you look at the new seal you should be able to identify it. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From jmitch at snet.net Tue Aug 7 16:04:58 2018 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 18:04:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: I am!??? Shelton, CT On 8/7/2018 1:55 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pbaize at satx.rr.com Tue Aug 7 18:12:53 2018 From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 19:12:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: Still here, just got my 71 Stag inspected Patrick On 8/7/2018 12:55 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 18:33:25 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:33:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> <142C1692-4577-437E-B237-310495213C8A@yahoo.com> You guys are brilliant life savers yet again...metal collar came out with couple hammer whacks...THANK YOU Please correct me if the Following assumptions I make are incorrect: 1. New seal goes in without the metal collar...no need for metal collar any longer 2. New seal goes in with the spring side facing the engine (facing the inside of the cover), and the ?collar side? up against the lip of the cover opening facing toward radiator of the cover. Thanks Erkan P.S. I forgot to mention tr3b engine Sent from my iPad > On Aug 7, 2018, at 4:20 PM, Erkan Hassan wrote: > > Hmmm...sounds about right > > Will try to remove the steel ring...don?t want to break anything > > Does the steel ring go back on with the new seal or just the plastic piece?? > > Thanks > Erkan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 7, 2018, at 4:17 PM, Randall wrote: > >>> I dug out the old oil seal from the cover. Crumbled pieces >>> came out and scraped as much as I could out of there (old >>> spring came out also) >>> >> >>> The seal has a diameter of about 2.5 inches and is not >>> flexible but the inner diameter of the opening is about 2 inches. >> >> My guess is that you haven't removed all of the old seal. It should have an >> outer ring, which is probably steel and might look like part of the cover. >> >> -- Randall >> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 18:38:35 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 19:38:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> <142C1692-4577-437E-B237-310495213C8A@yahoo.com> > Does the steel ring go back on with the new seal or just the > plastic piece?? > No, the ring is scrap. It was part of the seal, the new seal will replace it even if it uses plastic instead of steel. -- Randall From fmags at cox.net Tue Aug 7 18:51:09 2018 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 19:51:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum Yep. Frank From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 18:57:49 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:57:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> <142C1692-4577-437E-B237-310495213C8A@yahoo.com> <27F9CB0A2A164A70B5EEC9FDA94CD69C@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> Great...thank you Now which way does the new seal go in? There is the ?spring containing side? and the ?collar side?. Which side faces the engine and which the radiator. Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never done this before and don?t want to screw it up Thanks Erkan Sent from my iPad On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:38 PM, Randall wrote: >> Does the steel ring go back on with the new seal or just the >> plastic piece?? >> > > No, the ring is scrap. It was part of the seal, the new seal will replace > it even if it uses plastic instead of steel. > > -- Randall > From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 19:04:46 2018 From: tfansher at comcast.net (Thomas Fansher) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 21:04:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: I?m still here. 1973 MkII. Tom Fansher Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 7, 2018, at 1:55 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > > > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Aug 7 19:06:55 2018 From: tfansher at comcast.net (Thomas Fansher) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 21:06:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Emission stuff help for a 71 Triumph Stag References: 1973 Stag. One three port The canister is vertical the ports are horizontal Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 7, 2018, at 2:06 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > > For those of you how have a '71 Stag, can you please help me answer the following two questions: > > On your '71 Stag. Do you have two 2 top port carbon canisters or do you have one 3 top port canister? If you have a 3 are the ports horizontal or vertical ? > > My May '71 has 1 three port canister > > > Also, does your '71 have float vent valves in the carbs? > > > Sujit > > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Tue Aug 7 20:55:03 2018 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:55:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: <7c66ae40-2c4c-b959-be6f-426414c1e2cf@snet.net> I get on every once in a great while! Glenn Merrell +1 (303) 817-8559 mobile aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook) Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 4:05 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum I am! Shelton, CT On 8/7/2018 1:55 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 20:56:51 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 21:56:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> <142C1692-4577-437E-B237-310495213C8A@yahoo.com> <27F9CB0A2A164A70B5EEC9FDA94CD69C@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <648F6798-9023-491C-844D-4F001C1B6E2D@yahoo.com> > Now which way does the new seal go in? There is the "spring > containing side" and the "collar side". > Which side faces the engine and which the radiator. "Spring side" towards engine. -- Randall From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Tue Aug 7 20:57:29 2018 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:57:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Emission stuff help for a 71 Triumph Stag References: Sujit, Most ?Early? stags had two canisters. Second Sanction aka Mark I between LE10,000 on had a single canister. The layout is in the early Graphics and early Stag ROM Cheers! Glenn Merrell +1 (303) 817-8559 mobile aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook) Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 12:06 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Emission stuff help for a 71 Triumph Stag For those of you how have a '71 Stag, can you please help me answer the following two questions: On your '71 Stag. Do you have two 2 top port carbon canisters or do you have one 3 top port canister? If you have a 3 are the ports horizontal or vertical ? My May '71 has 1 three port canister Also, does your '71 have float vent valves in the carbs? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Aug 7 23:32:51 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 00:32:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> <142C1692-4577-437E-B237-310495213C8A@yahoo.com> <27F9CB0A2A164A70B5EEC9FDA94CD69C@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <648F6798-9023-491C-844D-4F001C1B6E2D@yahoo.com> The rubber only side should face the radiator, the side where the spring is visible should face the engine. - Tony On 8/7/2018 7:57 PM, Erkan Hassan wrote: > Great...thank you > > Now which way does the new seal go in? There is the ?spring containing side? and the ?collar side?. > Which side faces the engine and which the radiator. > > Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never done this before and don?t want to screw it up > > Thanks > Erkan > > Sent from my iPad > > On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:38 PM, Randall wrote: > >>> Does the steel ring go back on with the new seal or just the >>> plastic piece?? >>> >> No, the ring is scrap. It was part of the seal, the new seal will replace >> it even if it uses plastic instead of steel. >> >> -- Randall >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Wed Aug 8 07:25:39 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 13:25:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal References: <427228792.2815749.1533663814378@mail.yahoo.com> <142C1692-4577-437E-B237-310495213C8A@yahoo.com> <27F9CB0A2A164A70B5EEC9FDA94CD69C@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> Thank you Randall and Michael for your expert wisdom...greatly appreciated. I have to head out of town on business today so hopefully will get some time this weekend. Thanks AgainErkan From: Randall To: 'Erkan Hassan' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 8:38 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal > Does the steel ring go back on with the new seal or just the > plastic piece?? > No, the ring is scrap.? It was part of the seal, the new seal will replace it even if it uses plastic instead of steel. -- Randall? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Aug 8 09:44:59 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 10:44:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Reno Is there anyone near Reno? They have this August nights festival, and I'm looking for info. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Aug 8 09:46:23 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 10:46:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Reno And yes, I am aware of the website. I am hoping to find someone who has actually been there. From: dave Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 10:45 AM To: 'TR3 Triumphs' Subject: Reno Is there anyone near Reno? They have this August nights festival, and I'm looking for info. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 13:52:12 2018 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 14:52:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Reno References: <001a01d42f2e$f62814d0$e2783e70$@ranteer.com> I had the chance to go to Hot August Nights a number of years ago visiting friends who lived on Lake Tahoe. It's a beautiful part of the country -- Tahoe being one of my favorite places in America -- and the number and variety of cars at HAN in Reno was truly amazing. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone. On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 10:46 AM, dave wrote: > And yes, I am aware of the website. I am hoping to find someone who has > actually been there. > > > > *From:* dave > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 8, 2018 10:45 AM > *To:* 'TR3 Triumphs' > *Subject:* Reno > > > > Is there anyone near Reno? They have this August nights festival, and I?m > looking for info. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From timipurdy at citlink.net Wed Aug 8 15:06:45 2018 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 14:06:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Reno References: <001a01d42f2e$f62814d0$e2783e70$@ranteer.com> I reside about 85 miles from Reno. They keep spreading the venue, with so many locations for different events and days. I have been seeing a lot of ?trailer queens? coming through Susanville on their way to Reno. The only way to find lodging if there is a cancellation and most places nearby such as Carson City and Truckee are booked. The weather for the week long event will be crummy due to smoke filled skies and that is not going to change any time soon. If you go, don?t expect to see any Little British Cars, etc, its geared to older American vehicles. Tim > On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:46 AM, dave wrote: > > And yes, I am aware of the website. I am hoping to find someone who has actually been there. > > From: dave > Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 10:45 AM > To: 'TR3 Triumphs' > Subject: Reno > > Is there anyone near Reno? They have this August nights festival, and I?m looking for info. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timipurdy at citlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pethier7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 18:52:27 2018 From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 19:52:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: Phil Ethier is still around. triumphs at autox.team.net On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 4:15 PM Randall wrote: > I'm still here, and still a Stag owner at the moment. > > Been thinking about putting both of them up for sale, but haven't taken the > plunge yet. > > -- Randall > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > > Behalf Of Sujit Roy > > Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 12:55 PM > > To: Triumphs > > Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum > > > > > > > > Sujit > > > > > > -- > > > > Sujit Roy > > Cupertino, California > > > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com > -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2017 Ford Fusion SE 2.0 Turbo http://www.mnautox.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 20:24:21 2018 From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 02:24:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] Thrust washer (bearings) The other day my TR4 engine developed an engine noise which sounded like something hitting sheet metal when ever the clutch was depressed. I traced it to the flywheel ring gear bolts hitting the cover plate of the bellhousing. Checking further I found that I could move the flywheel and crankshaft forward and backward about 20 thousands. I remember when I built the engine 15 years ago, the tolerance was a bit over the 5 thousands listed in the manual but nowhere near the current 20. Anyone ever had this problem? How do I take up the 15 thousands ? Also my cylinders are all currently showing 120 to 122 PSI. After I rebuilt it was 160 PSi. Leak down test shows all to be okay but right on the boarder of marginal. I 120 PSI normal for a TR 4 with 40,000 miles on a rebuild? Bob Nogueira From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 9 00:41:01 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 02:41:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thrust washer (bearings) References: Have you tried replacing the thrust washers? That's certainly where I would start. Most likely your old ones are worn to produce that much clearance. If it does turn out the crank surface is that badly worn, it can be welded up and reground. The value read for compression can vary widely based on a lot of factors, so you should look only at the variation. All within less than 2% of the average is very good. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bob Nogueira > Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2018 10:24 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Thrust washer (bearings) > > The other day my TR4 engine developed an engine noise which > sounded like something hitting sheet metal when ever the > clutch was depressed. > I traced it to the flywheel ring gear bolts hitting the cover > plate of the bellhousing. Checking further I found that I > could move the flywheel and crankshaft forward and backward > about 20 thousands. I remember when I built the engine 15 > years ago, the tolerance was a bit over the 5 thousands > listed in the manual but nowhere near the current 20. > Anyone ever had this problem? How do I take up the 15 thousands ? > Also my cylinders are all currently showing 120 to 122 PSI. > After I rebuilt it was 160 PSi. Leak down test shows all to > be okay but right on the boarder of marginal. I 120 PSI > normal for a TR 4 with 40,000 miles on a rebuild? > > Bob Nogueira > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Thu Aug 9 09:54:40 2018 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 09:54:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum References: Hey Phil, Did I hear Uncle Jack was not at VTR 2018 in La Crosse this year? Whatsupwithdat? UJ would have looked good in a photo shoot with LD2 ? jus sayin ? Glenn Merrell +1 (303) 817-8559 mobile aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook) Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip Ethier Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 6:52 PM To: Randall; Triumphs; Philip Ethier Subject: Re: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum Phil Ethier is still around. On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 4:15 PM Randall wrote: I'm still here, and still a Stag owner at the moment. Been thinking about putting both of them up for sale, but haven't taken the plunge yet. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Sujit Roy > Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 12:55 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Any Stag owners left on this forum > > > > Sujit > > > -- > > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2017 Ford Fusion SE 2.0 Turbo http://www.mnautox.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sagreenwood at att.net Thu Aug 9 18:28:57 2018 From: sagreenwood at att.net (Stuart Greenwood) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 00:28:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stag emission canister References: <300996869.4725174.1533860937662.ref@mail.yahoo.com> On my 1071 stag the canister is a two port. ? No there are no overflow vents on the carbsStuart A Greenwood -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 814163 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 10 05:34:09 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 07:34:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag emission canister References: <300996869.4725174.1533860937662.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <300996869.4725174.1533860937662@mail.yahoo.com> If your Stag was built in 1071 the canister is probably made of wood. Those coopersmiths were pretty clever. ;-) Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Stuart Greenwood To: triumphs Sent: Thu, Aug 9, 2018 9:15 pm Subject: [TR] Stag emission canister On my 1071 stag the canister is a two port. No there are no overflow vents on the carbs Stuart A Greenwood ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 814163 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 10:17:27 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 09:17:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question Due to tight space, I can't put a socket on the end of a torque wrench, but I can put a small Craftsman crow foot on the end. If I do this, by what factor should I add or remove from the specified torque for a bolt? I'm working on a Triumph gearbox with OD. Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 10:23:12 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 09:23:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing a J type OD I have rebuild a gearbox for a Stag using a Y type OD from a Triumph Dolomite Sprint. I'd like to bench test it. Can I put a drill on the end of the input shaft and spin it and then switch on the solenoid? If so, and I am looking at the bell housing face on, should the shaft rotate in a clockwise direction? For testing, can I switch on the solenoid in any gear other than reverse? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 11:21:45 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 10:21:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] emissions help needed for cars with a carbon canister with three top ports and one on bottom. I'm trying to figure out my emissions system for my '71 Stag. I have one carbon canister with three top ports. (I'm coming to the conclusion that this was stock - others's have two canisters with 2 ports) 1 port goes to fuel tank, 1 port goes to crank case ventilation 1 port goes to carb float vent valves For the port that goes to the crank case vent. do you have a restrictor in the path? I see a similar set up for TR's and there is a restrictor in place. But I haven't got confirmation from a fellow Stag owner. Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 12:07:58 2018 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 13:07:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: This is a tricky question. The correction factor actually depends on the length of the crows foot and the direction it is installed on the torque wrench. Fortunately some helpful soul has created a web site to do the math for you, just punch in the measurements it asks for and it will give you the answer you need. http://www.cncexpo.com/torqueadapter.aspx On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 11:17 AM, Sujit Roy wrote: > Due to tight space, I can't put a socket on the end of a torque wrench, > but I can put a small Craftsman crow foot on the end. > > If I do this, by what factor should I add or remove from the specified > torque for a bolt? > > I'm working on a Triumph gearbox with OD. > > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 10 12:24:53 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 13:24:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: Good question, I always used the same values. Maybe that was the right thing to do but I am no engineer. Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 10, 2018, at 11:17 AM, Sujit Roy wrote: Due to tight space, I can't put a socket on the end of a torque wrench, but I can put a small Craftsman crow foot on the end. If I do this, by what factor should I add or remove from the specified torque for a bolt? I'm working on a Triumph gearbox with OD. Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Fri Aug 10 13:10:43 2018 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 19:10:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Welcome back, Paul, and good luck. I always enjoyed reading your reports on the progress on your car Mike From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Monday, July 30, 2018 7:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks to the guppies that answered! I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests. All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 10 13:28:56 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:28:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Welcome back, Paul. I guess it all depends on whether you stripped out the carpets and stuff beforehand. If there is nothing there to hold moisture the metal will have had a better chance of survival. Also, watch out for hornet nests. (both literal and metaphorical) Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Paul Dorsey To: triumphs Sent: Fri, Aug 10, 2018 1:57 pm Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks to the guppies that answered! I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests. All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 10 14:26:06 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 16:26:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: Depends on the angle between the crowfoot wrench and the torque wrench. If you have it sticking out straight, then multiply the torque figure you want by the ratio of the torque wrench length divided by the new length. Both lengths measured from center of rotation to the center of the hand grip. The formula for other angles is more complicated. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 10 14:22:09 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 16:22:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing a J type OD References: I'll bite, what is a Y type OD? I've tested both A and J with a drill motor on the input, but I don't try to use the chuck to grab the shaft. Instead, I found a short length of radiator hose that I could clamp to each of them. No risk of damage to the bearing surface on the shaft. Fairly certain it turns clockwise when you're looking at the bell housing towards the rear; but maybe someone else can confirm? You can try any forward gear, but the drill turns pretty slow and the OD will be turning even slower in any gear except 4th. That may affect the results, especially if it works like a J-type. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Fri Aug 10 14:33:37 2018 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 20:33:37 GMT Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A There are several of us listers in the Peach state.What part are you in? There are a few around Atlanta.I am near Columbus ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Paul Dorsey To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 07:52:13 -0400 I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks to the guppies that answered! I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests.All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Aug 10 14:44:51 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 16:44:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Welcome back, Paul ? I think there are still a few old codgers who are still on the list. About 2 years ago, there was a thread, ?whatever happened to Paul Dorsey??, but no-one knew. I guess we thought you would be found under the hood of your TR3 some day??? Good luck with the restoration! Andrew Uprichard Bad day: Had an OD gearbox in a car but with the harness disconnected Test drove it down my driveway in second and didn?t realize it had somehow slipped into overdrive and was stuck. Went to turn around at the bottom of the driveway and?..well??.you all know the rest. It?s true what they say about putting a car in reverse with the overdrive stuck. Oh well. My wife just reminded me how I say this is part of the fun of owning Triumphs. From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Monday, July 30, 2018 7:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks to the guppies that answered! I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests. All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Aug 10 14:49:00 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 16:49:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing a J type OD References: Not sure if I should reply, given I just put a car into reverse with the OD stuck?. I have an old motor from a washing machine and can use the belt to spin the output shaft of OD gearboxes. I have found I can go into and out of overdrive this way by just turning the lever on the shaft activated by the solenoid. Before today (!) I have always been careful to turn the shaft clockwise / the way it turns when driving in a forward gear. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 12:23 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Testing a J type OD I have rebuild a gearbox for a Stag using a Y type OD from a Triumph Dolomite Sprint. I'd like to bench test it. Can I put a drill on the end of the input shaft and spin it and then switch on the solenoid? If so, and I am looking at the bell housing face on, should the shaft rotate in a clockwise direction? For testing, can I switch on the solenoid in any gear other than reverse? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 15:07:20 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 14:07:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing a J type OD References: <31703FC6-A4AE-4ABF-9CDB-40D3A5C83F93@ca.rr.com> J Type. Sorry On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 1:22 PM, Randall wrote: > I'll bite, what is a Y type OD? > > I've tested both A and J with a drill motor on the input, but I don't try > to use the chuck to grab the shaft. Instead, I found a short length of > radiator hose that I could clamp to each of them. No risk of damage to the > bearing surface on the shaft. > > Fairly certain it turns clockwise when you're looking at the bell housing > towards the rear; but maybe someone else can confirm? > > You can try any forward gear, but the drill turns pretty slow and the OD > will be turning even slower in any gear except 4th. That may affect the > results, especially if it works like a J-type. > > -- Randall -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sagreenwood at att.net Fri Aug 10 17:04:19 2018 From: sagreenwood at att.net (Stuart Greenwood) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 23:04:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stag overdrive testing References: <443001816.5226429.1533942259541.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Sujit wrote:- ?I have rebuild a gearbox for a Stag using a Y type? OD from a Triumph Dolomite Sprint. I'd like to bench test it. Can I put a drill on the end of the input shaft and spin it and then switch on the solenoid? If so, and I am looking at the bell housing face on, should the shaft rotate in a clockwise direction? For testing, can I switch on the solenoid in any gear other than reverse? It just depends on how strong a drill you have and what speeds it goes at. You want enough power to spin the gearbox and overdrive up to a such a speed so that? the overdrive oil pressure is at the relief valve setting ( probably 450 psi though the Dolomite might have been different). I used a 1/2 horse power electric motor from Harbor Freight and a pulley drive to step down? the speed though I can't remember the step down? ratio but I still have the pulleys so I could calculate this if you want.? 1/2 horse power was just about adequate... I should have got a 1 horse power motor instead. Most engines turn clockwise looking on the front of the engine and the Stag engine does.?How many inhibitor switches do you have on the gearbox? That limits the gears for the overdrive to work. If you by pass these switches you can operate the overdrive in 2, 3 and 4 if your like but was is the point of doing this?. You want the gearbox to be in 4th gear so the overdrive is rotating as fast as possible.I strongly recommend, as I think I have told you before, to look at the Buckeye Triumph web site and read the the article on the J type overdrive. There you will see a bench set up for testing the overdrive.The only way you can tell that the overdrive has switched in is by putting your hand on the output shaft and feeling that it has slowed down. So I hope you have either? a helper or very long arms Stuart A Greenwood -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 10 17:26:55 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 19:26:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Hi, Paul. Good to hear from you again after all this time. As for the tarp, look at the bright side and think how bad it would be if you hadn't covered it. Glad your back, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > On July 30, 2018 at 7:52 AM Paul Dorsey wrote: > > I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks to the guppies that answered! > > I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests. > All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. > > I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? > > I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 10 18:03:44 2018 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 00:03:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Paulwelcome back.i remember you well.and good to hear your going to start back on the TR. i look forward to taking the pi** out of you some more. Frank Fisher On Friday, August 10, 2018, 12:04:54 PM PDT, Paul Dorsey wrote: I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me.? Thanks to the guppies that answered! I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960.? My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests.All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul!? Thank you.?? I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now.? Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car.? I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? I guess it's time to put up or shut up.? I guess it's time to finish restoring it.? Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 19:19:51 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 18:19:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Paul - Welcome back. Once it is uncovered you might as well post a photo so we can see what you're dealing with. Geo On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 12:01 PM Paul Dorsey wrote: > I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks > to the guppies that answered! > > I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My > ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up > hornets nests. > All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. > > I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. > Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that > was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't > somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? > > I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish > restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gandcanderson at comcast.net Fri Aug 10 19:38:21 2018 From: gandcanderson at comcast.net (gandcanderson at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 01:38:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: Hello Paul, I'm relatively new to this site as compared to many others but I do wish you luck with your restoration. As some have mentioned, covering your TR3A will trap moisture and encourage rust, hopefully it won't be too bad. For about 2-3 years many years ago I parked my TR2 outside in Iowa but did not have it covered beyond the convertible top and crappy side curtains from JC Whitney. I then moved the car into the garage when my parents sold their second car and moved it to Minnesota but again into a garage...plus two more moves but always into another garage. A year ago I took my car to a body and paint guy who still has it. I knew there was some rust and bondo, but when he started digging into it, beyond the typical rust areas behind both of the front wheels, the inner and outer sills on both sides were nothing but rot along with some other areas along the bottom edge. Some of this rust was probably because the car lived at least some (I don't know much about the history of the car beyond that it came out of Illinois) of it's 19 years of life in Iowa and Illinois, but I'm thinking the few years sitting outside didn't do it any good either. So, long story short, I would suggest taking a hard look at the inner sills on both side of the car. If these are full of rot you're in for a major project to replace them. Good luck and hopefully the inner sills are in good shape! Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: "Paul Dorsey" , triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 2:10:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A Welcome back, Paul, and good luck. I always enjoyed reading your reports on the progress on your car Mike From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Monday, July 30, 2018 7:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks to the guppies that answered! I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up hornets nests. All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 10 20:49:45 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 22:49:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> Uhm, that would be why English majors subscribe to this list.... Just saying. Terry > On August 10, 2018 at 4:26 PM Randall wrote: > > Depends on the angle between the crowfoot wrench and the torque wrench. > > If you have it sticking out straight, then multiply the torque figure you want by the ratio of the torque wrench length divided by the new length. Both lengths measured from center of rotation to the center of the hand grip. > > The formula for other angles is more complicated. > -- Randall > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 03:51:08 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 05:51:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> > Uhm, that would be why English majors subscribe to this list.... > Perhaps an example would help? Let's say you want to torque your nut to 50 ftlb, your torque wrench measures 26" overall and your crowfoot extension is 4" overall. First we need the effective length of the torque wrench. On mine, the business end is about 1" diameter, while the hand grip extends about 2" beyond the center of my hand. So we subtract half of the head diameter (0.5") and the 2" for the hand grip to get 23.5" effective length. Now the effective length of the torque wrench plus crowfoot extension. Assuming both ends of the crowfoot are around 1" diameter, it would extend the center by about 3", or 26.5" overall. Divide those two numbers to get the ratio. 23.5/26.5 = .89 (rounded to 2 digits) Multiply the desired torque by the ratio. 50 * .89 = 44.5 ftlb. Round that to two digits, and set your wrench to 45 ftlb. Hmm, well, perhaps not. Reminds me of an old David Crosby line: "You see just below the surface of the mud, there's more mud here." -- Randall From dorpaul1 at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 18:39:17 2018 From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 20:39:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: <815225769.5648402.1533945824481@mail.yahoo.com> Eh oh. ISTR getting kicked around. thank you for responding. I am confused, why aren't I receiving email from the digest version of the group? Use to be that I would get a daily "digest" of everything the group said during the day. I must have done something wrong since You are the first person i've heard from itn the last 10 days or so. Thanks, Frank On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 8:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > Paul > welcome back. > i remember you well. > and good to hear your going to start back on the TR. > > i look forward to taking the pi** out of you some more. > > Frank Fisher > > > > > > > > > On Friday, August 10, 2018, 12:04:54 PM PDT, Paul Dorsey < > dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote: > > > I cast a net on the Triumph site asking if others remembered me. Thanks > to the guppies that answered! > > I am gussying up my sore frame to try and restore my TR3A, 1960. My > ignorance in those days stays with me and sometime my posts stirred up > hornets nests. > All I can say to myself is, Welcome back, Paul! Thank you. > > I've kept my non running TR3 in the back yard, under tarp till now. > Somebody told me last week that with these humid Georgia summers that that > was the worst thing for a car. I thought to myself, now why didn't > somebody from the list tell me that back in the '90's? > > I guess it's time to put up or shut up. I guess it's time to finish > restoring it. Let me go and untarp it, wish me luck > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dorpaul1 at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 20:43:02 2018 From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2018 22:43:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? I posted that I wanted to rejoin this group on July 30 of this year. Several old time members said they saw my posting only in the last day or two..what's up with that?...am I being punished for not being more active? Am I in a time warp? Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 11 06:41:09 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 07:41:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: Paul, It?s just the system, on several occasions I have had posts that never showed up. Sometimes my own post will end in the spam filter. Welcome back, now get that car on the road. Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 10, 2018, at 9:43 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote: I posted that I wanted to rejoin this group on July 30 of this year. Several old time members said they saw my posting only in the last day or two..what's up with that?...am I being punished for not being more active? Am I in a time warp? Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 11 06:56:03 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 08:56:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> LOL! I'm just glad you science guys are out there! > On August 11, 2018 at 5:51 AM Randall wrote: > > > > Uhm, that would be why English majors subscribe to this list.... > > > > Perhaps an example would help? > > Let's say you want to torque your nut to 50 ftlb, your torque wrench > measures 26" overall and your crowfoot extension is 4" overall. > > First we need the effective length of the torque wrench. On mine, the > business end is about 1" diameter, while the hand grip extends about 2" > beyond the center of my hand. So we subtract half of the head diameter > (0.5") and the 2" for the hand grip to get 23.5" effective length. > > Now the effective length of the torque wrench plus crowfoot extension. > Assuming both ends of the crowfoot are around 1" diameter, it would extend > the center by about 3", or 26.5" overall. > > Divide those two numbers to get the ratio. 23.5/26.5 = .89 (rounded to 2 > digits) > > Multiply the desired torque by the ratio. 50 * .89 = 44.5 ftlb. Round that > to two digits, and set your wrench to 45 ftlb. > > Hmm, well, perhaps not. Reminds me of an old David Crosby line: "You see > just below the surface of the mud, there's more mud here." > > -- Randall > From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Aug 11 06:58:40 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 08:58:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question And we're glad to have English majors on the list to help us write good. https://www.plainlanguage.gov/resources/humor/how-to-write-good/ Remember, good grammar saves lives. "Let's eat, Grandma" is not the same as "Let's eat Grandma." Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: TERRY SMITH To: Sujit Roy ; Randall ; triumphs Sent: Sat, Aug 11, 2018 4:17 am Subject: Re: [TR] torque wrench question Uhm, that would be why English majors subscribe to this list.... Just saying. Terry On August 10, 2018 at 4:26 PM Randall wrote: Depends on the angle between the crowfoot wrench and the torque wrench. If you have it sticking out straight, then multiply the torque figure you want by the ratio of the torque wrench length divided by the new length. Both lengths measured from center of rotation to the center of the hand grip. The formula for other angles is more complicated. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 08:20:21 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:20:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: > I posted that I wanted to rejoin this group on July 30 of > this year. Several old time members said they saw my posting > only in the last day or two..what's up with that?...am I Like so many of us, our email server has gotten a bit stiff and cranky. Sometimes it takes longer to get things done; sometimes they don't get done at all. It's nothing personal. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 08:24:54 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:24:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does people remember me?- Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A References: > Somebody told me last week that with these humid > Georgia summers that that was the worst thing for a car. Can't say I agree with that. Not being under a tarp would be worse, or you could be like the fellow whose TR got caught in Katrina and sat underwater for days. Good luck. And worry about the hornet's nest in the car, not on here. We need a spirited discussion from time to time, keeps the blood circulating :) -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 11 15:19:33 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 16:19:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <692856097.51836.1533992163354@connect.xfinity.com> Length of the handle has nothing to do with it, it is all about the offset between the center of the bolt and the head of the wrench. The wrench will measure the same torque whether I choke up 6" or use a cheater bar (yes, I do to get that 105ftlb). Your results may vary, Bill B -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 7:56 AM To: Sujit Roy ; Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] torque wrench question LOL! I'm just glad you science guys are out there! > On August 11, 2018 at 5:51 AM Randall wrote: > > > > Uhm, that would be why English majors subscribe to this list.... > > > > Perhaps an example would help? > > Let's say you want to torque your nut to 50 ftlb, your torque wrench > measures 26" overall and your crowfoot extension is 4" overall. > > First we need the effective length of the torque wrench. On mine, the > business end is about 1" diameter, while the hand grip extends about 2" > beyond the center of my hand. So we subtract half of the head > diameter > (0.5") and the 2" for the hand grip to get 23.5" effective length. > > Now the effective length of the torque wrench plus crowfoot extension. > Assuming both ends of the crowfoot are around 1" diameter, it would > extend the center by about 3", or 26.5" overall. > > Divide those two numbers to get the ratio. 23.5/26.5 = .89 (rounded > to 2 > digits) > > Multiply the desired torque by the ratio. 50 * .89 = 44.5 ftlb. Round > that to two digits, and set your wrench to 45 ftlb. > > Hmm, well, perhaps not. Reminds me of an old David Crosby line: "You > see just below the surface of the mud, there's more mud here." > > -- Randall > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 19:16:59 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 21:16:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <692856097.51836.1533992163354@connect.xfinity.com> <000001d431b9$00131b70$00395250$@flash.net> > The wrench will > measure the same torque whether I choke up 6" or use a > cheater bar (yes, I > do to get that 105ftlb). If the wrench reads the same, then why bother with the cheater bar? Answer is, it doesn't read the same. The wrench responds to the torque it sees, which is force applied to the handle times the length of the handle. Your cheater bar increases the length, so the same force at the end of the cheater bar results in more torque at the fastener and a higher reading on the torque wrench. But, when the cheater (extension) is between the wrench and the fastener, the reading doesn't change even though the torque is greater. That's why you need a correction factor, based on the length of the extension vs the length of the torque wrench. Maybe a thought experiment would help. Let's say you have a little bitty torque wrench, only 1' long and it only reads to 30 ftlb (for 30 lbf on the handle). Now let's say there is a 6' extension between it and the fastener; and you still apply 30 lbf to the handle. Do you really think it will still be only 30 ftlb at the fastener? Or that the torque wrench is magically going to read 210 ftlb? (30 lbf times 7') Now imagine you use a 7' long wrench instead, and pull on it with 30 lbf. How much torque does that apply? -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Aug 12 08:48:41 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 07:48:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <3E3217F27A7B43C7ABAC0BD79A10FAAE@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> On 8/11/18 7:20 AM, Randall wrote: >> I posted that I wanted to rejoin this group on July 30 of >> this year. Several old time members said they saw my posting >> only in the last day or two..what's up with that?...am I > Like so many of us, our email server has gotten a bit stiff and cranky. > Sometimes it takes longer to get things done; sometimes they don't get done > at all. > > It's nothing personal. That's why I don't understand why the lists haven't been migrated over to one of the big list hosting companies like google lists. Google keeps thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. Whenever I reset the spam filter it does it for only that one person on the triumph list. I've got it to ignore the fot mail and let it through, but only about half a dozen triumph list members. TeriAnn From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 12 11:05:54 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 13:05:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? I am happy with the lists as they are, kind and of like our cars, it is not by any means the latest and greatest technology, but it is comfortable and the quirks,such as seeing answers to my posts before I see my posts sometimes, formerly common, now less common, are familiar. I haven't had much issue with things being blocked, so I guess maybe easy for me to say. However, now I am wondering if I have made TeriAnn's very exclusive "listworthy" club. Cheers, Greg Lemon TR250 ---- "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" wrote: > On 8/11/18 7:20 AM, Randall wrote: > >> I posted that I wanted to rejoin this group on July 30 of > >> this year. Several old time members said they saw my posting > >> only in the last day or two..what's up with that?...am I > > Like so many of us, our email server has gotten a bit stiff and cranky. > > Sometimes it takes longer to get things done; sometimes they don't get done > > at all. > > > > It's nothing personal. > That's why I don't understand why the lists haven't been migrated over > to one of the big list hosting companies like google lists. Google keeps > thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short > stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. Whenever I > reset the spam filter it does it for only that one person on the triumph > list. I've got it to ignore the fot mail and let it through, but only > about half a dozen triumph list members. > > TeriAnn > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 12 12:31:41 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 14:31:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <3E3217F27A7B43C7ABAC0BD79A10FAAE@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <41ded7f7-a7dc-9199-7afe-69a49ce78b92@gmail.com> > Google keeps > thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short > stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. Seems like more of a reason to go away from Google, rather than towards it. Google's business model revolves around two things: Selling advertising, and collecting data on those who use it. Some people are not bothered by those things; but some are. So I'm with Greg, I'd rather keep the list as it is as long as MJB will have us. That said, there are already several major web forums for Triumphs, and they currently get a lot more traffic than the Team.Net list. I see a lot of familiar names there, too. I expect some people will continue to migrate, until eventually the Triumphs list goes under critical mass and dies a natural death, as so many other Team.Net lists have already done. Seems like years since I've seen a post to Single Malt or Superchargers. Which is probably just as well, since my doctor seems to think I should stay away from both of those things -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 12 13:03:22 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 14:03:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <20180812170554.CMCW8.80971.root@cdptpa-web27> I was at the team.net site last week and sent requests for a couple of lists, majordomo at team.net, everything came back undeliverable. Many of the links do not work, but fortunately the archives do! Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 12, 2018, at 12:05 PM, wrote: I am happy with the lists as they are, kind and of like our cars, it is not by any means the latest and greatest technology, but it is comfortable and the quirks,such as seeing answers to my posts before I see my posts sometimes, formerly common, now less common, are familiar. I haven't had much issue with things being blocked, so I guess maybe easy for me to say. However, now I am wondering if I have made TeriAnn's very exclusive "listworthy" club. Cheers, Greg Lemon TR250 ---- "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" wrote: > On 8/11/18 7:20 AM, Randall wrote: >>> I posted that I wanted to rejoin this group on July 30 of >>> this year. Several old time members said they saw my posting >>> only in the last day or two..what's up with that?...am I >> Like so many of us, our email server has gotten a bit stiff and cranky. >> Sometimes it takes longer to get things done; sometimes they don't get done >> at all. >> >> It's nothing personal. > That's why I don't understand why the lists haven't been migrated over > to one of the big list hosting companies like google lists. Google keeps > thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short > stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. Whenever I > reset the spam filter it does it for only that one person on the triumph > list. I've got it to ignore the fot mail and let it through, but only > about half a dozen triumph list members. > > TeriAnn > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Aug 12 17:32:35 2018 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 19:32:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] PL700 Tripod Headlights Has anyone had issues with the latest repro units of the PL700 tripod headlights. I'm on my second one and they keep fogging on the inside. One clear and one foggy. Doesn't look so good. Thanks in advance. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 2002 Triumph Trophy 1200 (had to have it-only 1200 miles) From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Mon Aug 13 00:34:20 2018 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 06:34:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <3E3217F27A7B43C7ABAC0BD79A10FAAE@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <41ded7f7-a7dc-9199-7afe-69a49ce78b92@gmail.com>, As much as I enjoy them both, I would say that single malts and superchargers are not the ideal mix! Mike Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad On Aug 12, 2018, at 15:27, Randall wrote: >> Google keeps >> thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short >> stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. > > Seems like more of a reason to go away from Google, rather than towards it. > > Google's business model revolves around two things: Selling advertising, and > collecting data on those who use it. Some people are not bothered by those > things; but some are. So I'm with Greg, I'd rather keep the list as it is > as long as MJB will have us. > > That said, there are already several major web forums for Triumphs, and they > currently get a lot more traffic than the Team.Net list. I see a lot of > familiar names there, too. I expect some people will continue to migrate, > until eventually the Triumphs list goes under critical mass and dies a > natural death, as so many other Team.Net lists have already done. Seems > like years since I've seen a post to Single Malt or Superchargers. > > Which is probably just as well, since my doctor seems to think I should stay > away from both of those things > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 13 05:39:44 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 07:39:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: Randall Cc: triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 2:42 am Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? As much as I enjoy them both, I would say that single malts and superchargers are not the ideal mix! Mike Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad On Aug 12, 2018, at 15:27, Randall wrote: >> Google keeps >> thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short >> stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. > > Seems like more of a reason to go away from Google, rather than towards it. > > Google's business model revolves around two things: Selling advertising, and > collecting data on those who use it. Some people are not bothered by those > things; but some are. So I'm with Greg, I'd rather keep the list as it is > as long as MJB will have us. > > That said, there are already several major web forums for Triumphs, and they > currently get a lot more traffic than the Team.Net list. I see a lot of > familiar names there, too. I expect some people will continue to migrate, > until eventually the Triumphs list goes under critical mass and dies a > natural death, as so many other Team.Net lists have already done. Seems > like years since I've seen a post to Single Malt or Superchargers. > > Which is probably just as well, since my doctor seems to think I should stay > away from both of those things > > -- Randall > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Aug 13 07:40:05 2018 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 09:40:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] PL700 Tripod Headlights References: <001401d43294$c06acb80$41406280$@gmail.com> It's a pain to clean them up but I found that the rubber 'boot' was not sealing correctly.? While at it you might want to switch to LED lamps. I have a contact for a guy in Maryland that makes adapters and bulbs for them.? ^$150 for the pair.? Cuts down on the heat and perhaps more importantly the current draw. Contact info is on home computer so PM if you want it. Carl ?Sent from BlueMail ? On Aug 12, 2018, 8:38 PM, at 8:38 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: >Has anyone had issues with the latest repro units of the PL700 tripod >headlights. I'm on my second one and they keep fogging on the inside. >One >clear and one foggy. Doesn't look so good. >Thanks in advance. >Jim Henningsen >Ocala FL >61 TR3A >62 TR4 >75 TR6 >82 Jeep CJ8 >2002 Triumph Trophy 1200 (had to have it-only 1200 miles) > > > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Aug 13 07:46:03 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 09:46:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid plunger boot Does anyone know where I can source the little rubber boot which goes around the plunger in an A-type overdrive solenoid? Moss says they come only with the entire solenoid and TRF can't find any. I am rebuilding my overdrive and noticed the old boot was torn. Thanks for any help! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 08:45:06 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 10:45:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <2BBF14A8-BDF2-4DB8-BE49-14918E138B21@albiontechnical.com> <1653315b25e-1ea4-e07f@webjas-vad004.srv.aolmail.net> > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make the haggis taste much better! But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were in the afternoon. -- Randall From forzion7 at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 09:39:32 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 11:39:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid plunger boot References: <002c01d4330b$fb201e70$f1605b50$@uprichard.net> Andrew; If you don't mind the shipping from the UK, I had excellent results here, last year. Seems like the Big 3 should know about this source... Spread the word... Cheers! Dave On Tue, Aug 22, 2017 at 4:03 AM, wrote: Hi David > They are ?2.50 each the postage would be ?7.00 we accept credit card > payment at 3% > > Best regards, Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > *OVERDRIVE SPARES10 ARCHES BUSINESS CENTREMILL ROADRUGBY ,WARWICKSHIRECV21 > 1QWENGLANDEmail : odspares at aol.com Telephone Number : > 01788 540666Fax Number : 01788 570777Web: www.odspares.com > * > On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 11:32 AM Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Does anyone know where I can source the little rubber boot which goes > around the plunger in an A-type overdrive solenoid? > > > > Moss says they come only with the entire solenoid and TRF can?t find any. > > > > I am rebuilding my overdrive and noticed the old boot was torn. Thanks > for any help! > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 13 10:02:15 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 12:02:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? I only eat haggis for ceremonial purposes and I can only eat it with the "gravy." If you like liver you may like haggis but I can't stand liver, personally. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 9:45 am Subject: RE: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make the haggis taste much better! But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were in the afternoon. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Mon Aug 13 10:24:11 2018 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 16:24:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <2BBF14A8-BDF2-4DB8-BE49-14918E138B21@albiontechnical.com>, <1653315b25e-1ea4-e07f@webjas-vad004.srv.aolmail.net> After too many single malts, I have been known to develop a list to starboard. Mike Sent from my iPhone Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) Dave Massey -----Original Message----- Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 2:42 am Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? As much as I enjoy them both, I would say that single malts and superchargers are not the ideal mix! Mike Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad On Aug 12, 2018, at 15:27, Randall wrote: >> Google keeps >> thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short >> stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. > > Seems like more of a reason to go away from Google, rather than towards it. > > Google's business model revolves around two things: Selling advertising, and > collecting data on those who use it. Some people are not bothered by those > things; but some are. So I'm with Greg, I'd rather keep the list as it is > as long as MJB will have us. > > That said, there are already several major web forums for Triumphs, and they > currently get a lot more traffic than the Team.Net list. I see a lot of > familiar names there, too. I expect some people will continue to migrate, > until eventually the Triumphs list goes under critical mass and dies a > natural death, as so many other Team.Net lists have already done. Seems > like years since I've seen a post to Single Malt or Superchargers. > > Which is probably just as well, since my doctor seems to think I should stay > away from both of those things > > -- Randall > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 10:58:35 2018 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 12:58:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <2BBF14A8-BDF2-4DB8-BE49-14918E138B21@albiontechnical.com> <1653315b25e-1ea4-e07f@webjas-vad004.srv.aolmail.net> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 12:42 PM Randall wrote: > > > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) Oddly enough, I'm already on a Haggis list. Tangentially related to model railroads, we talk about everything except model railroads. And it's run on a private server, just like Team.net... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 11:49:36 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 10:49:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <3E3217F27A7B43C7ABAC0BD79A10FAAE@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <41ded7f7-a7dc-9199-7afe-69a49ce78b92@gmail.com> On Sun, Aug 12, 2018 at 8:17 AM TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: ...Whenever I reset the spam filter it does it for only that one person on > the triumph > list. I've got it to ignore the fot mail and let it through, but only > about half a dozen triumph list members. > This is how I have my gmail set up, works (for me) for all posters: [image: Spam.JPG] Of course, you may not see this message if it is adjudged to be Spam. Geo -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Spam.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 28738 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr3a58 at verizon.net Mon Aug 13 12:17:36 2018 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 14:17:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid plunger boot References: <002c01d4330b$fb201e70$f1605b50$@uprichard.net> I never use the rubber boot. I have had them get hard over time and have held the OD engaged. Also have had them slow the solenoid engaging. Have had no problem by not having a boot. Dean Dean Tetterton tr3a58 at verizon.net -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Triumphs' Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 11:30 am Subject: [TR] solenoid plunger boot Does anyone know where I can source the little rubber boot which goes around the plunger in an A-type overdrive solenoid? Moss says they come only with the entire solenoid and TRF can?t find any. I am rebuilding my overdrive and noticed the old boot was torn. Thanks for any help! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 13 12:41:30 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 14:41:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? I've noticed that my singing improves remarkably. At least in my ears. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 11:24 am Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? After too many single malts, I have been known to develop a list to starboard. Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 13, 2018, at 07:32, DAVID MASSEY wrote: Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: Randall Cc: triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 2:42 am Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? As much as I enjoy them both, I would say that single malts and superchargers are not the ideal mix! Mike Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad On Aug 12, 2018, at 15:27, Randall wrote: >> Google keeps >> thinking individual posts from the Triumph group and spam and short >> stopping mail until I get around to going into google spam. > > Seems like more of a reason to go away from Google, rather than towards it. > > Google's business model revolves around two things: Selling advertising, and > collecting data on those who use it. Some people are not bothered by those > things; but some are. So I'm with Greg, I'd rather keep the list as it is > as long as MJB will have us. > > That said, there are already several major web forums for Triumphs, and they > currently get a lot more traffic than the Team.Net list. I see a lot of > familiar names there, too. I expect some people will continue to migrate, > until eventually the Triumphs list goes under critical mass and dies a > natural death, as so many other Team.Net lists have already done. Seems > like years since I've seen a post to Single Malt or Superchargers. > > Which is probably just as well, since my doctor seems to think I should stay > away from both of those things > > -- Randall > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Aug 13 15:02:56 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 17:02:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <2BBF14A8-BDF2-4DB8-BE49-14918E138B21@albiontechnical.com> <1653315b25e-1ea4-e07f@webjas-vad004.srv.aolmail.net> I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s. Money was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, fries (chips) and turnips (neaps). (Probably explains why Scotland, at the time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched out the haggis. But it was really just meatloaf. Turns out that most of the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in the USA ! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make the haggis taste much better! But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were in the afternoon. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Mon Aug 13 19:01:20 2018 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 01:01:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <2BBF14A8-BDF2-4DB8-BE49-14918E138B21@albiontechnical.com> <1653315b25e-1ea4-e07f@webjas-vad004.srv.aolmail.net> , <00ad01d43349$03086ce0$091946a0$@uprichard.net> Haggis is offaly good.... Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad > On Aug 13, 2018, at 19:26, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s. Money > was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, > fries (chips) and turnips (neaps). (Probably explains why Scotland, at the > time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). > > Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched > out the haggis. But it was really just meatloaf. Turns out that most of > the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in > the USA ! > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM > To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > >> Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) >> > > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make > the haggis taste much better! > > But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were > in the afternoon. > > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com From lee at automate-it.com Mon Aug 13 20:29:53 2018 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 21:29:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <1653497d5af-1e9d-2eb4@webjas-vac015.srv.aolmail.net> > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) I wondered for years about the true contents of haggis. Finally, THIS VIDEO - https://youtu.be/SNmVS6MXl7o - completely cleared up the mystery for me. (And if you enjoy the video as much as I did, you'll enjoy all the comments, too!) Lee P.S. the presenter does so with a beautiful Scottish brogue! From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 13 22:52:02 2018 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 04:52:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <2BBF14A8-BDF2-4DB8-BE49-14918E138B21@albiontechnical.com> <1653315b25e-1ea4-e07f@webjas-vad004.srv.aolmail.net> <00ad01d43349$03086ce0$091946a0$@uprichard.net> welcome back Paul.as you can see we still get off on many a tangent that is not exclusive to you. so Paul says remember me and here we are now talking about the medicinal effects of a sheep belly. love you guys..welcome back Paul laughing my ........... frank On Monday, August 13, 2018, 8:30:17 PM PDT, Michael Marr wrote: Haggis is offaly good.... Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile:? 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad > On Aug 13, 2018, at 19:26, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s.? Money > was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, > fries (chips) and turnips (neaps).? (Probably explains why Scotland, at the > time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). > > Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched > out the haggis.? But it was really just meatloaf.? Turns out that most of > the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in > the USA ! > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM > To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > >> Perhaps we need a haggis list?? (you know, to go with the single malt) >> > > Ah!? Suddenly the light dawns!? Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make > the haggis taste much better! > > But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were > in the afternoon. > > > -- Randall? > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 05:58:14 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:58:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? How true. True haggis uses sheep's lungs and other innards (an American idiom) mixed with oatmeal stuffed into a sheep's stomach. Both lungs and stomach are not considered consumable by the US FDA. That's weird since intestines are considered consumable. And brains. And blood. (I'm eating breakfast as I write this so I think I will stop now.) It is common in many cultures to use everything but the oink, moo, baa, cluck, whatever. However, we now live in a time of plenty (or, rather, excess). We have no shortage of the good cuts and leave the less desirable cuts for the dog food industry. There is a group of ladies with the St. Louis St. Andrews Society who gather each year and prepare many, many pounds of haggis for the Burns banquet every year. I don't know the recipe but it is all locally sourced (except, maybe for the sherry). No lugs or stomach here but enough liver to make it necessary for me to add a dash of gravy (amber bead). "Weel are you wordy o' a grace as lang's my arm." Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Randall' ; 'DAVID MASSEY' ; triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 4:02 pm Subject: RE: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s. Money was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, fries (chips) and turnips (neaps). (Probably explains why Scotland, at the time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched out the haggis. But it was really just meatloaf. Turns out that most of the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in the USA ! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make the haggis taste much better! But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were in the afternoon. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 06:00:54 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 08:00:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? haud yer wheesht! https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=haud%20yer%20wheesht Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: Randall ; DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 8:01 pm Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Haggis is offaly good.... Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad > On Aug 13, 2018, at 19:26, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s. Money > was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, > fries (chips) and turnips (neaps). (Probably explains why Scotland, at the > time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). > > Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched > out the haggis. But it was really just meatloaf. Turns out that most of > the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in > the USA ! > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM > To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > >> Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) >> > > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make > the haggis taste much better! > > But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were > in the afternoon. > > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 06:33:17 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 08:33:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? FAKE NEWS! Everyone knows that haggis have three legs. Two on one side are longer than the one on the other making it easy to wander on the mountain slopes. The males have the two longer legs on the right side and the short one on the left. The Females have the two on the left side and the short one on the right. In this way the males wander in one direction and the females in the other. In this way the males avoid each other and are more likely to encounter females and continue on the species. And that's the truth. ;-) Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Lee Daniels To: triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 10:45 pm Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) I wondered for years about the true contents of haggis. Finally, THIS VIDEO - https://youtu.be/SNmVS6MXl7o - completely cleared up the mystery for me. (And if you enjoy the video as much as I did, you'll enjoy all the comments, too!) Lee P.S. the presenter does so with a beautiful Scottish brogue! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Aug 14 06:37:52 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 08:37:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? I think this list is turning into a haggis list. Oh, well, we need a diversion now and then, don't we? Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 2:26 pm Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 12:42 PM Randall wrote: > > > Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) Oddly enough, I'm already on a Haggis list. Tangentially related to model railroads, we talk about everything except model railroads. And it's run on a private server, just like Team.net... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 14 07:17:53 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:17:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: BMTA Bi-Weekly Update - August 14, 2018 References: <0eaac9a3daf15ebb161a30ee4.d8f2b7df50.20180814130405.59bdfed191.e8a77c4c@mail73.atl31.mcdlv.net> ? You all probably already have this info... if not -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: BMTA Bi-Weekly Update - August 14, 2018 Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 13:04:26 +0000 From: Alan Dalman To: frogeye at porterscustom.com BMTA Bi-Weekly Update - August 14, 2018 View this email in your browser Just a Reminder of Who We Are Welcome to the British Motor Trade Association. We?re an industry group aimed at keeping British car ownership fun and affordable. We are open to all businesses that serve the British car hobby: parts suppliers, restoration houses, service shops, insurance providers, event organizers, media publishers, car dealers, club officials and more. Our members include both wholesale and retail firms. News & Notes *A Note From Abroad*?- One of our?members from "across the pond" has sent us notice of expanded hours of operation. Rimmer Brothers Rimmer Bros, the UK based British Car Parts specialist have extended their call center hours of operation, ?they now have agents available 20 hours a day, some based in Lincoln, UK and some in St Cloud, MN. They even have a Toll Free Number 1-855-746-2767 for customers in the USA and Canada to call.? They can also be reached via the internet using the address www.rimmerbros.com . Rimmer Bros Sales & Marketing Manager, Andrew Mundy, states that demand for their Triumph, MG, Rover, Land Rover and Jaguar product range is particularly strong from international customers at present due in part to the favourable GB Pound exchange rates and in the US aided by an increase in the de minimis threshold for duty free imports from $200 to $800 in 2016. Expanding the contactable hours for the company will surely assist customers worldwide buy with confidence from this established family run firm. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From The Forums * *Straighten* up those wheels * *BJ8 Oil Cooler* for sale * WTH? *Vespa 400P* * *Jaguar?Mk IV* water pump rebuilding * Who is *John Targett* ? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Random Picture of the Bi-Week Jaguar D Type A picture leading to a short video introduction to the Jaguar D Type. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A Little Light Reading Shop Class as Soulcraft - An Inquiry into the Value of Work Random book recommendation for those down hours when you feel philosophical. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Plan Ahead for 2019 The 2019 BMTA Annual Conference will be held February 21 - 23, 2019 at Bentley Zionsville in Zionsville, Indiana. The host hotel is the*Hilton Garden Inn Indianapolis ? Airport *.?(317) 856-9100. Reservations are currently?being accepted. Contact the hotel directly at the above number and mention the British Motor Trade Association to get the group rate. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ *A Gentle Reminder* Please send your?news items, events, or other announcements to Michael at JustBritish.com for inclusion in future BMTA newsletters. Thanks! Next issue: August 21, 2018? (Yes, we will be getting back on schedule. Sorry!) /Copyright ? 2018 The British Motor Trade Association, All rights reserved./ Thank you for joining the BMTA email list. *Our mailing address is:* The British Motor Trade Association 445 West 22nd Street Holland, Mi 49423 Add us to your address book Want to change how you receive these emails? You can update your preferences or unsubscribe from this list . Email Marketing Powered by MailChimp --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 14 07:20:47 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:20:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] doing some repairs on a Sprite I figure if I post this it will keep me going via peer pressure.. LOL https://www.facebook.com/Porter-Custom-Bicycles-1402839036646849/ -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From mark at bradakis.com Tue Aug 14 13:13:58 2018 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 13:13:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <1653497d5af-1e9d-2eb4@webjas-vac015.srv.aolmail.net> Making small amounts of progress on updating the autox.team.net web pages.? Maybe someday all the ancient references to majordomo will be gone. mjb. From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Tue Aug 14 20:55:22 2018 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 02:55:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: , <165384f6ed7-1e9d-13821@webjas-vad105.srv.aolmail.net> Och, mon, Wee Rabbie wull hae the las? word: What though on hamely fare we dine, Wear hoddin grey, an' a that; Gie fools their silks, and knaves their wine; A Man's a Man for a' that: For a' that, and a' that, Their tinsel show, an' a' that; The honest man, tho' e'er sae poor, Is king o' men for a' that. Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad haud yer wheesht! https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=haud%20yer%20wheesht Dave Massey -----Original Message----- Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 8:01 pm Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Haggis is offaly good.... Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad > On Aug 13, 2018, at 19:26, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s. Money > was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, > fries (chips) and turnips (neaps). (Probably explains why Scotland, at the > time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). > > Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched > out the haggis. But it was really just meatloaf. Turns out that most of > the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in > the USA ! > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM > To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > >> Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) >> > > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make > the haggis taste much better! > > But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were > in the afternoon. > > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 15 06:15:04 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 08:15:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Then let us pray that come it may (as come it will for a' that) That sense and worth o'er a' the earth shall bear the gree, an a' that. for a' that, an' a' that It's coming yet for a' that That Man to Man, the world o'er, Shall brothers be for a' that. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: auprichard ; tr3driver ; triumphs Sent: Tue, Aug 14, 2018 9:55 pm Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Och, mon, Wee Rabbie wull hae the las? word: What though on hamely fare we dine, Wear hoddin grey, an' a that; Gie fools their silks, and knaves their wine; A Man's a Man for a' that: For a' that, and a' that, Their tinsel show, an' a' that; The honest man, tho' e'er sae poor, Is king o' men for a' that. Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad On Aug 14, 2018, at 08:01, DAVID MASSEY wrote: haud yer wheesht! https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=haud%20yer%20wheesht Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: Randall ; DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 8:01 pm Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Haggis is offaly good.... Michael Marr Albion Technical Services Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad > On Aug 13, 2018, at 19:26, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I was a medical student in Edinburgh, Scotland, in the late 1970s. Money > was tight, but the students' union sold an inexpensive lunch of haggis, > fries (chips) and turnips (neaps). (Probably explains why Scotland, at the > time, had the highest incidence of coronary artery disease in the world). > > Years later I attended a Burns dinner in Boston where they proudly marched > out the haggis. But it was really just meatloaf. Turns out that most of > the ingredients of the real stuff were offal, and banned from consumption in > the USA ! > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 10:45 AM > To: 'DAVID MASSEY'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? > >> Perhaps we need a haggis list? (you know, to go with the single malt) >> > > Ah! Suddenly the light dawns! Yes, a wee dram or two (or three) would make > the haggis taste much better! > > But we only got served haggis in the morning, and all the taste tests were > in the afternoon. > > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 15 09:22:05 2018 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Bob Berger) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 10:22:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? References: <1653497d5af-1e9d-2eb4@webjas-vac015.srv.aolmail.net> <01b24a2b-08fd-94b6-a1f0-e11e3e4badf9@bradakis.com> Good luck. Bob Berger 78 Spitfire -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 2:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originally- Do people remember me? Making small amounts of progress on updating the autox.team.net web pages. Maybe someday all the ancient references to majordomo will be gone. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 15 09:28:36 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 10:28:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint Is it just me or is there no way to clear the tip of the new Rust-Oleum, and maybe others, spray cans with the ?spray at any angle? feature? Other than taking the tip off and soaking it in thinner then blow it out. Have thrown out several partial cans in the past year and taking one back to Lowe?s today. Am I missing a secret process here? Thanks for letting me vent, Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Aug 15 11:28:41 2018 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 13:28:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint References: <942286EB-2C0A-4F3B-BA0D-2AA65E696208@flash.net> Do you do the usual "invert the can after you're finished and spray until it's clear"? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech at flash.net Is it just me or is there no way to clear the tip of the new Rust-Oleum, and maybe others, spray cans with the ?spray at any angle? feature? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Aug 15 12:45:55 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 13:45:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint References: <942286EB-2C0A-4F3B-BA0D-2AA65E696208@flash.net> <1653ea1e33d-1e9f-6462@webjas-vae139.srv.aolmail.net> "Spray at any angle" kills that method.? It's nice while painting but sucks afterwards. - Tony On 8/15/2018 12:28 PM, Andrew S. Mace wrote: > Do you do the usual "invert the can after you're finished and spray > until it's clear"? > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Wbeech at flash.net > > Is it just me or is there no way to clear the tip of the new > Rust-Oleum, and maybe others, spray cans with the ?spray at any angle? > feature? > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greg at gelhar.com Wed Aug 15 14:33:55 2018 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 15:33:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint References: <942286EB-2C0A-4F3B-BA0D-2AA65E696208@flash.net> I might have the largest collection of partially used paint spray cans. Some are several years old. My method to keep them useable is to make sure to shake them thoroughly before spraying. When finished, remove the spray tip and blow the tip clear with compressed air. No need to waste the propellant inside the can, you'll want it for the next time. My shop and garage have permanent air plumbing which makes it easy. My air gun is equipped with a small rubber tip that fits those spray tips well. Greg G. Osseo, MN -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2018 10:29 AM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint Is it just me or is there no way to clear the tip of the new Rust-Oleum, and maybe others, spray cans with the ?spray at any angle? feature? Other than taking the tip off and soaking it in thinner then blow it out. Have thrown out several partial cans in the past year and taking one back to Lowe?s today. Am I missing a secret process here? Thanks for letting me vent, Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 15 15:18:51 2018 From: bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com (Bob Westerdale) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 21:18:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint References: <942286EB-2C0A-4F3B-BA0D-2AA65E696208@flash.net> <1653ea1e33d-1e9f-6462@webjas-vae139.srv.aolmail.net> <69ea70ae-8f97-d582-896a-1cccbd2e02d8@tonydrews.com> I'd suggest a small glass jar ( w/ lid) full of 'Brush Cleaner' ...? Each time you empty a rattlecan,pull off the sprayhead and toss it in the sauce.? The residual paint stays soft and this sprayheadwill function well when the one you'd been using clogs up.? ? I've got a jar full of all different kindsthat I've collected over the years,? everything from spray glue to undercoating.? If the spraycandoesn't have enough pressure to force out the old but softened paint in the sprayhead, hit it with some?compressed air.? Works every time...Cautionary Note:? Most Rustoleum Spray paint has a re-coat window of either less than 2 hours or?more than 48 hours ( under good drying conditions)? ?A fresh re-coat ( ie. over the 'feels dry' -but isn't-first coat)? will result in the paint solvents really trashing the whole project, resulting in an unusableywrinkled-coat, and you'll have to start all over from bare metal.? ? If drying conditions are sub-optimal,( ie cool weather)? you may have to wait a few extra days.? ?I try to spray some paint on some scrap?and use it as a test-case for re-coat timing....? But have also had to resort to very bad language andmuch furrowing of brow at times when the 2nd coat curdles after a few hours....I'd had pretty good luck with most of the Krylon stuff,? but the Rustoleum is better paint, IMHO.YMMV!!Bob Westerdale59 3A? ?TS36967 On Wednesday, August 15, 2018, 4:33:00 PM EDT, Tony Drews wrote: "Spray at any angle" kills that method.? It's nice while painting but sucks afterwards. - Tony On 8/15/2018 12:28 PM, Andrew S. Mace wrote: Do you do the usual "invert the can after you're finished and spray until it's clear"? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech at flash.net Is it just me or is there no way to clear the tip of the new Rust-Oleum, and maybe others, spray cans with the ?spray at any angle? feature? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3a58 at verizon.net Wed Aug 15 16:08:53 2018 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2018 18:08:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rattle Can Paint I had an uncle that had the best way to deal with partially used paint spray cans. He always used it all. When done painting what was his project, he emptied the can on his 46 Ford pickup. It was every color in the book but was always covered with paint. Not a bare spot on it and no rust. Dean Dean Tetterton tr3a58 at verizon.net -----Original Message----- From: Greg Gelhar To: wbeech ; 'Dave Ranteer' Sent: Wed, Aug 15, 2018 5:15 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Rattle Can Paint I might have the largest collection of partially used paint spray cans. Some are several years old. My method to keep them useable is to make sure to shake them thoroughly before spraying. When finished, remove the spray tip and blow the tip clear with compressed air. No need to waste the propellant inside the can, you'll want it for the next time.My shop and garage have permanent air plumbing which makes it easy. My air gun is equipped with a small rubber tip that fits those spray tips well.Greg G.Osseo, MN-----Original Message-----From: Triumphs On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.netSent: Wednesday, August 15, 2018 10:29 AMTo: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Rattle Can PaintIs it just me or is there no way to clear the tip of the new Rust-Oleum, and maybe others, spray cans with the ?spray at any angle? feature? Other than taking the tip off and soaking it in thinner then blow it out. Have thrown out several partial cans in the past year and taking one back to Lowe?s today. Am I missing a secret process here?Thanks for letting me vent,Bill BSent from my Handspring Treo** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Aug 16 12:06:15 2018 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (nafzigerg at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 18:06:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <346089079.9205955.1534442775947.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?).Anything over 3,000 rpm. ?3,000 miles on new overhaul. ?Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? Have electronic ignition.Gary n. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Thu Aug 16 14:30:25 2018 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 13:30:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <346089079.9205955.1534442775947.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <346089079.9205955.1534442775947@mail.yahoo.com> Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Flutter miss Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? Have electronic ignition. Gary n. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Aug 16 15:12:17 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 17:12:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench Some time ago I bought 2 Craftsman torque wrenches at my local Sears. Today I enquired about having them calibrated and was told that it would cost $80 apiece. That's more than the cost of a new torque wrench ! Anyone one the list been in this position - and what did you do to ensure the wrenches were calibrated? Thanks for any advice. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Aug 16 18:28:09 2018 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 19:28:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <007e01d435a5$d0598270$710c8750$@uprichard.net> DIY, the adjustment is simple and the process is not too complicated. There should be a plastic cap on the handle end of your torque wrench. Pull this off any you will find the adjust nut. Tighten to increase the amount of torque applied before the click, loosen to decrease. Now to calibrate, all you need is a known weight on a lever of known length. I use a 3' piece of heavy angle iron with a slot cut in it that is 1/2 wide. Next put a weight on the other end. 10 pounds at 3 feet and your torque wrench should click at 30ft-lbs. 20 pounds at 3' and your wrench should click at 60 ft-lbs. Just make sure the bar is horizontal, you need the force of gravity to be pulling straight down. The best practice is to calibrate at the high end of the range your wrench is capable of. This is not a lab method and the results will be off a little based on the weight of the bar and altitude at your location, etc, etc. But it is close enough for just about anything you are ever going to use it for. On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 4:12 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Some time ago I bought 2 Craftsman torque wrenches at my local Sears. > Today I enquired about having them calibrated and was told that it would > cost $80 apiece. That?s more than the cost of a new torque wrench ! > > Anyone one the list been in this position ? and what did you do to ensure > the wrenches were calibrated? > > > > Thanks for any advice. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Thu Aug 16 20:30:46 2018 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 02:30:46 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Flutter miss On the same theme, check the voltage. ?Do you have 13+. Rye PH: 530-FIND-RYE On Aug 16, 2018, at 03:03 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. ? Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Flutter miss ? Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). Anything over 3,000 rpm. ?3,000 miles on new overhaul. ?Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? ? Have electronic ignition. Gary n. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Aug 16 22:49:57 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 0:49:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off are they usually? Greg Lemon TR250 From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 00:03:24 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 02:03:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <346089079.9205955.1534442775947.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <346089079.9205955.1534442775947@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d4359f$f7373690$e5a5a3b0$@cox.net> Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that. That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires. Then the distributor cap and rotor. Some of the older rotors were sketchy. Have fun! Terry Smith, '58 TR3A New Hampshire > On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > > Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > > > > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). > > Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? > > > > Have electronic ignition. > > Gary n. > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Fri Aug 17 06:20:49 2018 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 12:20:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <346089079.9205955.1534442775947.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <346089079.9205955.1534442775947@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d4359f$f7373690$e5a5a3b0$@cox.net>, <1082185719.365826.1534485805020@connect.xfinity.com> Is it possible the distributor shaft bronze bushings could be worn just enough that at higher RPM that extra clearance or possible wobble could affect the timing of the points action and gap, and/or the rotor to cap timing and spacing? Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of TERRY SMITH [terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:03 AM To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com; jpaynepbr at cox.net; Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that. That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires. Then the distributor cap and rotor. Some of the older rotors were sketchy. Have fun! Terry Smith, '58 TR3A New Hampshire On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Flutter miss Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? Have electronic ignition. Gary n. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 06:40:03 2018 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 12:40:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> I had my calibration on my 3 30 year old Craftsman torque wrenches last year.? All were in spec.....no adjustment required. Chad in Tulsa On Friday, August 17, 2018, 12:42:30 AM CDT, wrote: That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many years of ownership.? For those that have done it or had it done how far off are they usually? Greg Lemon TR250 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Aug 17 07:04:00 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 09:04:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 overdrive gearbox List: I have 4 TRs all with full-synchro A-type overdrive gearboxes. I also have a TR3 which came with a non-synchro OD, but the person interested in the car wants an all-synchro, non-OD set-up. The overdrive works on the bench if I spin the shaft, but I cannot attest that it will work under load. The gearbox has new synchros and seals. I am familiar with the later boxes, but have no idea what a non-synchro OD box would fetch were I to sell it. Any suggestions? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From adornato at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 08:33:19 2018 From: adornato at gmail.com (Bruce Adornato) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 07:33:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <4481f298-cafe-4b3c-9ef9-de95bf37e612@me.com> check the wire connections to coil and the coil resistance Sent from my phone > On Aug 16, 2018, at 7:30 PM, Rye Livingston wrote: > > On the same theme, check the voltage. Do you have 13+. > > > Rye > PH: 530-FIND-RYE > >> On Aug 16, 2018, at 03:03 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: >> > >> Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. >> >> >> >> Jonas Payne >> >> PBR Consulting Services, LLC >> >> 702.882.6711 >> >> >> >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com >> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM >> To: Triumphs List >> Subject: [TR] Flutter miss >> >> >> >> Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). >> >> Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? >> >> >> >> Have electronic ignition. >> >> Gary n. >> >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adornato at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 09:24:05 2018 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 10:24:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> The only time I have ever needed to calibrate a wrench was because it broke. On my Craftsman that I bought in 1993 the adjustment nut came loose after about 20 years of service, so I reassembled it and re-calibrated. Since I had the set up there I also tested another Craftsman I had of the same vintage and a Snap-ON I bought in 2016. Both of the other two wrenches were within 5 ft-lbs. which I consider to be about as good as you are going to get with this style of wrench. When I was working on airplanes for a living the shop sent torque wrenches out for re-calibration every 12 months. I have no idea if the service that we used ever did any adjustment on them or not. On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: > That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to > confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many > years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off > are they usually? > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 10:36:28 2018 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 11:36:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> I've had a Craftsman DigiTork torque wrench for over thirty five years, and still use it. It's stored with the spring completely relaxed, but after that long on a relatively inexpensive tool at the time, relying on its accuracy is really more a matter of trust than validation. That said, tests others have done on a number of torque wrenches, even (gasp) Harbor Freight, have shown them all to be generally OK. And a TR is pretty forgiving. The procedure for *checking* calibration is pretty simple -- there's some very sophisticated lab equipment that uses the same mass-on-the-end-of-an-arm-approach. But let's say one wants to CHANGE something in the calibration. Has anyone ever done that on a DigiTork? There must be thousands and thousands of these still in use, yet I've never found any instructions or guidance for calibrating one. (I have noticed that as the wrench has aged, the little torque values printed inside the window seem to have gotten smaller...) On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: > That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to > confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many > years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off > are they usually? > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 10:43:29 2018 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 09:43:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> I have a torsion bar torque wrench. I used it to check the accuracy of my Harbor Freight click adjust wrench and it was spot on, or at least they agreed at 50 lbs. I always turn the tension down to 0 when not using the click adjust style wrenches - a friend told me that helps prevent the spring from stretching. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon at neb.rr.com Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 9:50 PM Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off are they usually? Greg Lemon TR250 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 11:38:20 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 10:38:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> My Craftsman torque wrench fell apart. If I recall these things did fall under their life time warranty . I bought a new one. I still have it . One day I will get to it Sujit On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 8:24 AM, John Innis wrote: > The only time I have ever needed to calibrate a wrench was because it > broke. On my Craftsman that I bought in 1993 the adjustment nut came loose > after about 20 years of service, so I reassembled it and re-calibrated. > Since I had the set up there I also tested another Craftsman I had of the > same vintage and a Snap-ON I bought in 2016. Both of the other two > wrenches were within 5 ft-lbs. which I consider to be about as good as you > are going to get with this style of wrench. When I was working on > airplanes for a living the shop sent torque wrenches out for re-calibration > every 12 months. I have no idea if the service that we used ever did any > adjustment on them or not. > > On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: > >> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >> are they usually? >> >> Greg Lemon >> TR250 >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agraham at execulink.com Fri Aug 17 11:45:25 2018 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 13:45:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. Hello List: Thinking of replacing my 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on the TR2; still works well, but would like to keep it as my "get me home" spare. Wondering what the current wisdom on coils is? Stick with the Lucas Sport or a Bosch?? Have conventional ignition. Also replacing the old paper wrapped (:-)) condenser with one received from TRF with a points kit. Happen to have a bunch of condensers from my old Volvo B18 days (Lucas distributor). Would they work with the TR points? Do condensers have an ohm rating? Thanks for any insights. Angelo Graham From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 12:08:24 2018 From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 18:08:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car References: <473239988.9875336.1534529304700.ref@mail.yahoo.com> ???? I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures.? Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". ???? Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous ? ? A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list?? I think that his name was Joe-something. ??? Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. ???? Bill in Tehachapi???? Anglophile, Logophile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdinnis at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 12:14:04 2018 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 13:14:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> The DigiTork wrench works the same as the clickers, it just have a nicer readout. Here is a parts diagram https://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-44597-torque-wrench-parts-c-158286_159642_159644_162990.html I have never worked on one of these, but it LOOKS LIKE you would adjust by tightening or loosening the pre-load nut (#26) on the diagram. I think you would need to remove the drum to adjust these nuts, so it might be possible (easier) to reposition the drum (where the torque readout is) to match whatever value it is actually clicking at. On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 11:36 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > I've had a Craftsman DigiTork torque wrench for over thirty five years, > and still use it. It's stored with the spring completely relaxed, but > after that long on a relatively inexpensive tool at the time, relying on > its accuracy is really more a matter of trust than validation. That said, > tests others have done on a number of torque wrenches, even (gasp) Harbor > Freight, have shown them all to be generally OK. And a TR is pretty > forgiving. > > The procedure for *checking* calibration is pretty simple -- there's some > very sophisticated lab equipment that uses the same > mass-on-the-end-of-an-arm-approach. But let's say one wants to CHANGE > something in the calibration. Has anyone ever done that on a DigiTork? > There must be thousands and thousands of these still in use, yet I've never > found any instructions or guidance for calibrating one. > > (I have noticed that as the wrench has aged, the little torque values > printed inside the window seem to have gotten smaller...) > > On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: > >> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >> are they usually? >> >> Greg Lemon >> TR250 >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Aug 17 15:41:06 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 17:41:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car References: <473239988.9875336.1534529304700.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <473239988.9875336.1534529304700@mail.yahoo.com> Not wanting to lower the tone, but MECONIUM is basically fetal poop. It is important in that, should a laboring woman?s waters become stained with meconium, it indicates that the fetus is in distress (don?t we all poop our pants when distressed?) Anyway, I was once at a party with an MD friend when a female acquaintance came up to us in a hideous dress. ?What do you think of the dress?? she asked. Without blinking an eye, my friend replied, ?Absolutely meconium, my dear? ?Why, thank you,? she replied, and moved on with a huge smile of satisfaction on her face. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:08 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. Bill in Tehachapi Anglophile, Logophile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Aug 17 15:58:36 2018 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 17:58:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car References: <473239988.9875336.1534529304700.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <473239988.9875336.1534529304700@mail.yahoo.com> It was Joe Curry, many many years ago in a misspell in a post! It caught on and never left! > On August 17, 2018 at 2:08 PM William Brewer wrote: > > I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". > Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. > > https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous > > A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. > > Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. > > Bill in Tehachapi > Anglophile, Logophile > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 16:26:16 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 18:26:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 207 References: TR3b water pulley Dear Listers, 1962 TR3b water pump gasket and pump attached, woodruff key inserted. Now time to attach the pulley. The pulley purchased from TRF came with a spacer washer and a copper washer. The height of the old pulley seems a bit higher than the replacement, so planning to use the spacer washer. My question relates to the copper washer. What do I use this washer for? The pump came with the larger washer and lock nut for the pump shaft over the pulley. I did not see a washer come off the old pulley. Any insights/suggestions?? Thanks Erkan Sent from my iPad > On Aug 17, 2018, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Flutter miss (nafzigerg at yahoo.com) > 2. Re: Flutter miss (jpaynepbr at cox.net) > 3. Craftsman torque wrench (Andrew Uprichard) > 4. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (John Innis) > 5. Re: Flutter miss (Rye Livingston) > 6. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (glemon at neb.rr.com) > 7. Re: Flutter miss (TERRY SMITH) > 8. Re: Flutter miss (Reihing, Randall S.) > 9. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (Chad) > 10. TR3 overdrive gearbox (Andrew Uprichard) > 11. Re: Flutter miss (Bruce Adornato) > 12. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (John Innis) > 13. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (Don Hiscock) > 14. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (Kinderlehrer) > 15. Re: Craftsman torque wrench (Sujit Roy) > 16. TR2/3 coil & condenser info. (Angelo Graham) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 18:06:15 +0000 (UTC) > From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > Message-ID: <346089079.9205955.1534442775947 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?).Anything over 3,000 rpm. ?3,000 miles on new overhaul. ?Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? > Have electronic ignition.Gary n. > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 13:30:25 -0700 > From: > To: , "Triumphs List" > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > Message-ID: <000001d4359f$f7373690$e5a5a3b0$@cox.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > > > > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). > > Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? > > > > Have electronic ignition. > > Gary n. > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 17:12:17 -0400 > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > To: "'Triumphs'" > Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: <007e01d435a5$d0598270$710c8750$@uprichard.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Some time ago I bought 2 Craftsman torque wrenches at my local Sears. Today > I enquired about having them calibrated and was told that it would cost $80 > apiece. That's more than the cost of a new torque wrench ! > > Anyone one the list been in this position - and what did you do to ensure > the wrenches were calibrated? > > > > Thanks for any advice. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 19:28:09 -0500 > From: John Innis > To: Andrew Uprichard > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > DIY, the adjustment is simple and the process is not too complicated. > There should be a plastic cap on the handle end of your torque wrench. > Pull this off any you will find the adjust nut. Tighten to increase the > amount of torque applied before the click, loosen to decrease. Now to > calibrate, all you need is a known weight on a lever of known length. I > use a 3' piece of heavy angle iron with a slot cut in it that is 1/2 wide. > Next put a weight on the other end. 10 pounds at 3 feet and your torque > wrench should click at 30ft-lbs. 20 pounds at 3' and your wrench should > click at 60 ft-lbs. Just make sure the bar is horizontal, you need the > force of gravity to be pulling straight down. The best practice is to > calibrate at the high end of the range your wrench is capable of. This is > not a lab method and the results will be off a little based on the weight > of the bar and altitude at your location, etc, etc. But it is close enough > for just about anything you are ever going to use it for. > > On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 4:12 PM, Andrew Uprichard > wrote: > >> Some time ago I bought 2 Craftsman torque wrenches at my local Sears. >> Today I enquired about having them calibrated and was told that it would >> cost $80 apiece. That?s more than the cost of a new torque wrench ! >> >> Anyone one the list been in this position ? and what did you do to ensure >> the wrenches were calibrated? >> >> >> >> Thanks for any advice. >> >> >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 02:30:46 +0000 (GMT) > From: Rye Livingston > To: jpaynepbr at cox.net > Cc: Triumphs List > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > Message-ID: <4481f298-cafe-4b3c-9ef9-de95bf37e612 at me.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > On the same theme, check the voltage. ?Do you have 13+. > > > Rye > PH: 530-FIND-RYE > > On Aug 16, 2018, at 03:03 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. > ? > Jonas Payne > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > 702.882.6711 > ? > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > ? > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). > Anything over 3,000 rpm. ?3,000 miles on new overhaul. ?Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? > ? > Have electronic ignition. > Gary n. > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 0:49:57 -0400 > From: > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root at cdptpa-web27> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off are they usually? > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 02:03:24 -0400 (EDT) > From: TERRY SMITH > To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com, jpaynepbr at cox.net, Triumphs List > > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > Message-ID: <1082185719.365826.1534485805020 at connect.xfinity.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that. That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires. Then the distributor cap and rotor. Some of the older rotors were sketchy. > > > Have fun! > > > Terry Smith, '58 TR3A > > New Hampshire > > >> On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: >> >> >> Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. >> >> >> >> Jonas Payne >> >> PBR Consulting Services, LLC >> >> 702.882.6711 >> >> >> >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com >> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM >> To: Triumphs List >> Subject: [TR] Flutter miss >> >> >> >> Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). >> >> Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? >> >> >> >> Have electronic ignition. >> >> Gary n. >> >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS >> > > >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 12:20:49 +0000 > From: "Reihing, Randall S." > To: TERRY SMITH , "nafzigerg at yahoo.com" > , "jpaynepbr at cox.net" , > Triumphs List > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > Message-ID: > <5DF59F06A5E05E47A21C0E72057265D901BFA9FF56 at msgdb11.utad.utoledo.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Is it possible the distributor shaft bronze bushings could be worn just enough that at higher RPM that extra clearance or possible wobble could affect the timing of the points action and gap, and/or the rotor to cap timing and spacing? > > Randall Reihing > 1959 TR3A > > ________________________________ > From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of TERRY SMITH [terryrs at comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:03 AM > To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com; jpaynepbr at cox.net; Triumphs List > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > > > Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that. That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires. Then the distributor cap and rotor. Some of the older rotors were sketchy. > > > Have fun! > > > Terry Smith, '58 TR3A > > New Hampshire > > On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > > Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > > > > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). > > Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? > > > > Have electronic ignition. > > Gary n. > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 12:40:03 +0000 (UTC) > From: Chad > To: > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: <1725421190.9673222.1534509603494 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I had my calibration on my 3 30 year old Craftsman torque wrenches last year.? All were in spec.....no adjustment required. > Chad in Tulsa > On Friday, August 17, 2018, 12:42:30 AM CDT, wrote: > > That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many years of ownership.? For those that have done it or had it done how far off are they usually? > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 09:04:00 -0400 > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > To: "'Triumphs'" > Subject: [TR] TR3 overdrive gearbox > Message-ID: <006f01d4362a$c4853ea0$4d8fbbe0$@uprichard.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > List: I have 4 TRs all with full-synchro A-type overdrive gearboxes. I > also have a TR3 which came with a non-synchro OD, but the person interested > in the car wants an all-synchro, non-OD set-up. > > > > The overdrive works on the bench if I spin the shaft, but I cannot attest > that it will work under load. The gearbox has new synchros and seals. > > > > I am familiar with the later boxes, but have no idea what a non-synchro OD > box would fetch were I to sell it. Any suggestions? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 07:33:19 -0700 > From: Bruce Adornato > To: Rye Livingston > Cc: Triumphs List > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > Message-ID: <951C2B2A-1073-4BF8-8C2A-F44BB7C2722F at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > check the wire connections to > coil and the coil resistance > > Sent from my phone > > >> On Aug 16, 2018, at 7:30 PM, Rye Livingston wrote: >> >> On the same theme, check the voltage. Do you have 13+. >> >> >> Rye >> PH: 530-FIND-RYE >> >>> On Aug 16, 2018, at 03:03 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: >>> >> >>> Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. >>> >>> >>> >>> Jonas Payne >>> >>> PBR Consulting Services, LLC >>> >>> 702.882.6711 >>> >>> >>> >>> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com >>> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM >>> To: Triumphs List >>> Subject: [TR] Flutter miss >>> >>> >>> >>> Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). >>> >>> Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? >>> >>> >>> >>> Have electronic ignition. >>> >>> Gary n. >>> >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adornato at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 10:24:05 -0500 > From: John Innis > To: Greg Lemon > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The only time I have ever needed to calibrate a wrench was because it > broke. On my Craftsman that I bought in 1993 the adjustment nut came loose > after about 20 years of service, so I reassembled it and re-calibrated. > Since I had the set up there I also tested another Craftsman I had of the > same vintage and a Snap-ON I bought in 2016. Both of the other two > wrenches were within 5 ft-lbs. which I consider to be about as good as you > are going to get with this style of wrench. When I was working on > airplanes for a living the shop sent torque wrenches out for re-calibration > every 12 months. I have no idea if the service that we used ever did any > adjustment on them or not. > >> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: >> >> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >> are they usually? >> >> Greg Lemon >> TR250 >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com >> > > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 11:36:28 -0500 > From: Don Hiscock > To: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I've had a Craftsman DigiTork torque wrench for over thirty five years, and > still use it. It's stored with the spring completely relaxed, but after > that long on a relatively inexpensive tool at the time, relying on its > accuracy is really more a matter of trust than validation. That said, > tests others have done on a number of torque wrenches, even (gasp) Harbor > Freight, have shown them all to be generally OK. And a TR is pretty > forgiving. > > The procedure for *checking* calibration is pretty simple -- there's some > very sophisticated lab equipment that uses the same > mass-on-the-end-of-an-arm-approach. But let's say one wants to CHANGE > something in the calibration. Has anyone ever done that on a DigiTork? > There must be thousands and thousands of these still in use, yet I've never > found any instructions or guidance for calibrating one. > > (I have noticed that as the wrench has aged, the little torque values > printed inside the window seem to have gotten smaller...) > >> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: >> >> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >> are they usually? >> >> Greg Lemon >> TR250 >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 09:43:29 -0700 > From: "Kinderlehrer" > To: > Cc: 'Triumphs' > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: <002e01d43649$6d979470$48c6bd50$@net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I have a torsion bar torque wrench. I used it to check the accuracy of my > Harbor Freight click adjust wrench and it was spot on, or at least they > agreed at 50 lbs. I always turn the tension down to 0 when not using the > click adjust style wrenches - a friend told me that helps prevent the spring > from stretching. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > glemon at neb.rr.com > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 9:50 PM > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > > That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to > confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many > years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off > are they usually? > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 10:38:20 -0700 > From: Sujit Roy > To: John Innis > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > My Craftsman torque wrench fell apart. If I recall these things did fall > under their life time warranty . I bought a new one. > > I still have it . > > One day I will get to it > > Sujit > >> On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 8:24 AM, John Innis wrote: >> >> The only time I have ever needed to calibrate a wrench was because it >> broke. On my Craftsman that I bought in 1993 the adjustment nut came loose >> after about 20 years of service, so I reassembled it and re-calibrated. >> Since I had the set up there I also tested another Craftsman I had of the >> same vintage and a Snap-ON I bought in 2016. Both of the other two >> wrenches were within 5 ft-lbs. which I consider to be about as good as you >> are going to get with this style of wrench. When I was working on >> airplanes for a living the shop sent torque wrenches out for re-calibration >> every 12 months. I have no idea if the service that we used ever did any >> adjustment on them or not. >> >>> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: >>> >>> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >>> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >>> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >>> are they usually? >>> >>> Greg Lemon >>> TR250 >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> ================================= >> = Never offend people with style when you = >> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = >> ================================= >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 13:45:25 -0400 > From: Angelo Graham > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Hello List: > > Thinking of replacing my 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on the TR2; still > works well, but would like to keep it as my "get me home" spare. > Wondering what the current wisdom on coils is? Stick with the Lucas > Sport or a Bosch?? Have conventional ignition. > > Also replacing the old paper wrapped (:-)) condenser with one received > from TRF with a points kit. Happen to have a bunch of condensers from my > old Volvo B18 days (Lucas distributor). Would they work with the TR > points? Do condensers have an ohm rating? > > Thanks for any insights. > > Angelo Graham > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 207 > ***************************************** From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 17 19:25:01 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 21:25:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car That's what I like about this erudite list, these pedagogical diversions are most edifying. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs List' Sent: Fri, Aug 17, 2018 5:47 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car Not wanting to lower the tone, but MECONIUM is basically fetal poop. It is important in that, should a laboring woman?s waters become stained with meconium, it indicates that the fetus is in distress (don?t we all poop our pants when distressed?) Anyway, I was once at a party with an MD friend when a female acquaintance came up to us in a hideous dress. ?What do you think of the dress?? she asked. Without blinking an eye, my friend replied, ?Absolutely meconium, my dear? ?Why, thank you,? she replied, and moved on with a huge smile of satisfaction on her face. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:08 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. Bill in Tehachapi Anglophile, Logophile ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitlist at cox.net Fri Aug 17 19:53:22 2018 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 18:53:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car Guilty as charged. I still blame it on fat fingers and no spell-checking back then :-) _____ From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:59 PM To: William Brewer; Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car It was Joe Curry, many many years ago in a misspell in a post! It caught on and never left! On August 17, 2018 at 2:08 PM William Brewer wrote: I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. Bill in Tehachapi Anglophile, Logophile ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 19:57:18 2018 From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (Bill Brewer) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 18:57:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car References: <20180818015324.SFWP4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo209.cox.net> Nice to know that you are still on the list two decades on. When I am pouring coolant into my British cars I still think "Time to add some fluif". -Bill in Tehachapi From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 6:53 PM To: 'v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy'; 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs List' Subject: RE: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car Guilty as charged. I still blame it on fat fingers and no spell-checking back then :-) _____ From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:59 PM To: William Brewer; Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car It was Joe Curry, many many years ago in a misspell in a post! It caught on and never left! On August 17, 2018 at 2:08 PM William Brewer wrote: I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. Bill in Tehachapi Anglophile, Logophile ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 17 21:10:29 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 22:10:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car References: <473239988.9875336.1534529304700.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <473239988.9875336.1534529304700@mail.yahoo.com> <012701d43673$01da2700$058e7500$@uprichard.net> I believe Dave Templeton just referred to ?Starting Fluif? in a post last month. So how many times does a new word have to be used before Webster will recognize it as a real word? Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:08 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. Bill in Tehachapi Anglophile, Logophile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Aug 18 06:26:06 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 08:26:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a chrome TR4A shift lever Hi All, Does anyone have a spare chrome TR4A shift lever they would like to sell? My transmission is from a later TR6 which has a black painted shift lever. Thanks! Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://DavesTR4A.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 3386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 18 08:53:05 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 10:53:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818015324.CVXK4101.fed1rmfepo101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo209.cox.net> Hmmm...for years I've been buying cartons (100 ct) of Diamond Grip Microflex examination gloves for use during doing dirt jobs (say that really really fast?). ...Changing oil and the like. They aren't particularly durable, but then I haven't experimented much to see if any such disposable gloves are. Does anyone have a preference or recommendation for what they like? Thanks, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From darrellw360 at mac.com Sat Aug 18 09:45:28 2018 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 08:45:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818015324.CVXK4101.fed1rmfepo101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo209.cox.net> <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> HI Terry, It looks like those a latex? I use nitrile, I think they are a little more durable. I usually get 6 or 7 mil thick, seems like a good tradeoff between durability and feel. This was the last box I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8W7HN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -Darrell > On Aug 18, 2018, at 7:53 AM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > > Hmmm...for years I've been buying cartons (100 ct) of Diamond Grip Microflex examination gloves for use during doing dirt jobs (say that really really fast?). ...Changing oil and the like. They aren't particularly durable, but then I haven't experimented much to see if any such disposable gloves are. Does anyone have a preference or recommendation for what they like? > > Thanks, > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com From stan at redtr6.com Sat Aug 18 10:19:14 2018 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 16:19:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818015324.CVXK4101.fed1rmfepo101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo209.cox.net>, <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> For dirty jobs I use cheap latex gloves from HF, for jobs where my hands need some protection i buy the HF Hardy mechanics gloves when they go on sale a couple of times a year (around $9 a pair). I have small hands and the M size fit me perfectly. Stan ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of TERRY SMITH Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 10:53:05 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves Hmmm...for years I've been buying cartons (100 ct) of Diamond Grip Microflex examination gloves for use during doing dirt jobs (say that really really fast?). ...Changing oil and the like. They aren't particularly durable, but then I haven't experimented much to see if any such disposable gloves are. Does anyone have a preference or recommendation for what they like? Thanks, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Aug 18 10:57:35 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 12:57:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat Aug 18 12:51:07 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 11:51:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> Couldn't sleep last night. Went on YouTube and found a fix for the head. It kept spinning. Spring bent. Seems to ratchet now. Simple fix. The locking mechanism does not lock. Any one taken a handle off a craftsman torque wrench On Fri, Aug 17, 2018, 15:13 John Innis wrote: > The DigiTork wrench works the same as the clickers, it just have a nicer > readout. Here is a parts diagram > https://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-44597-torque-wrench-parts-c-158286_159642_159644_162990.html > I have never worked on one of these, but it LOOKS LIKE you would adjust by > tightening or loosening the pre-load nut (#26) on the diagram. I think you > would need to remove the drum to adjust these nuts, so it might be possible > (easier) to reposition the drum (where the torque readout is) to match > whatever value it is actually clicking at. > > > On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 11:36 AM, Don Hiscock > wrote: > >> I've had a Craftsman DigiTork torque wrench for over thirty five years, >> and still use it. It's stored with the spring completely relaxed, but >> after that long on a relatively inexpensive tool at the time, relying on >> its accuracy is really more a matter of trust than validation. That said, >> tests others have done on a number of torque wrenches, even (gasp) Harbor >> Freight, have shown them all to be generally OK. And a TR is pretty >> forgiving. >> >> The procedure for *checking* calibration is pretty simple -- there's some >> very sophisticated lab equipment that uses the same >> mass-on-the-end-of-an-arm-approach. But let's say one wants to CHANGE >> something in the calibration. Has anyone ever done that on a DigiTork? >> There must be thousands and thousands of these still in use, yet I've never >> found any instructions or guidance for calibrating one. >> >> (I have noticed that as the wrench has aged, the little torque values >> printed inside the window seem to have gotten smaller...) >> >> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: >> >>> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >>> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >>> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >>> are they usually? >>> >>> Greg Lemon >>> TR250 >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >>> >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 18 13:11:34 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 14:11:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> Cheap HF gloves here too, usually they will make it through the job at hand. Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:57 AM, wrote: I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 18 13:49:35 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 12:49:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> Not only does Harbor Freight sell some decent cheap gloves (nitrile, 100 for $4.79) - they also have a dispenser which I find to be *hand*y. https://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-glovetissue-dispenser-red-69322.html Geo On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 9:57 AM, wrote: > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a > hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available > and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of > cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after > the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1177684 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sat Aug 18 14:06:17 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 16:06:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. ...glues and goos...easy to change'em ...use to just use them to go to the can. heavy work the mech gloves come out ptegler On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 18 14:11:37 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 16:11:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. References: I'm pretty sour on Lucas Sports coils, since the last one I bought only lasted about a year before leaving me on the side of the freeway in rush hour traffic. I replaced it with a Pertronix coil that seems to be working much better so far (about 8 years and counting). Condensers do have several ratings, including equivalent series resistance (aka ESR). However, I believe most condensers for points have similar ratings. The main question is whether they physically fit the hole. -- Randall On 17 August 2018 13:45:25 GMT-04:00, Angelo Graham wrote: >Hello List: > >Thinking of replacing my 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on the TR2; >still >works well, but would like to keep it as my "get me home" spare. >Wondering what the current wisdom on coils is? Stick with the Lucas >Sport or a Bosch?? Have conventional ignition. > >Also replacing the old paper wrapped (:-)) condenser with one received >from TRF with a points kit. Happen to have a bunch of condensers from >my >old Volvo B18 days (Lucas distributor). Would they work with the TR >points? Do condensers have an ohm rating? > >Thanks for any insights. > >Angelo Graham > > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sat Aug 18 14:45:55 2018 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 16:45:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anyone in extreme NE Tennessee? Hi, I'm interested in a car way up in the corner of Tennessee, near Bristol. Anyone in that area that could see if it's worth a five hour drive for me to go see? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Aug 18 15:07:12 2018 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (nafzigerg at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 21:07:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] flutter/miss solved References: <532404124.10341501.1534626432234.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Just an update.? removing the spark plugs revealed heavily carboned/sooted front two and nice light brown color on back two.? went through the whole carb tune up finding the front carb was not connected to the back carb.? I must have connected them but too loosely so eventually they stopped working together.? also found the carbs badly balanced. with just 3,000 miles on rebuild done by me.? just another rock in the trail!? Now runs awesome.? Keep on tuning lol gary n. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 18 15:19:24 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:19:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> Gloves for the job "at hand" ???? Tsk tsk tsk. :o) > On August 18, 2018 at 3:11 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" wrote: > > > Cheap HF gloves here too, usually they will make it through the job at hand. > Bill > > Sent from my Handspring Treo > > On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:57 AM, wrote: > > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 18 15:20:11 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:20:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> Gadfrey. You too !!! > On August 18, 2018 at 3:49 PM Geo Hahn wrote: > > Not only does Harbor Freight sell some decent cheap gloves (nitrile, 100 for $4.79) - they also have a dispenser which I find to be handy. > > https://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-glovetissue-dispenser-red-69322.html > > > > > Geo > > On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 9:57 AM, wrote: > > > > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. > > > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1177684 bytes Desc: not available URL: From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Sat Aug 18 15:40:06 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:40:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Water pump pulley TR 3b Cliff...you were spot on.... The woodruff key on the new pump DOES NOT fit in the slot of the new pulley. Strange as both are from TRF, one would think that would be taken care of from the same order house. Interestingly, the slot from the old pulley does fit the key....guess I?ll be cleaning that one up and try to return new one. Were you able to find a pulley from moss or VB which works? Thanks Erkan Sent from my iPad From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 18 16:09:34 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 22:09:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - mechanics gloves References: <20180818015324.CVXK4101.fed1rmfepo101.cox.net@fed1rmimpo209.cox.net> <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> Terry I have been picking up different thicknesses from HF. The 7 and 8mil for things like oil and gas related work. Where it is going to get grimy ? thinker but they last a few hours on the hands, the 9 most of a full day. 5 & 6 mil for around the house, like house work and litter box duty ? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 18 16:14:14 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 22:14:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - TR2/3 coil & condenser info. References: Angelo I just got delivered from amazon a Randall recommended coil, the pertronix flamethrower II. 40K and as you know the trials and tribulations I am going through it has a stupidly strong spark ? I think it was $60cdn and here in two days with prime. As for the condenser, I went to Heimpel Automotive and they ordered me two equivalent from Montreal for $10 a piece ( yeah surprised me ) in two days. One in the car and one spare now David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 18 16:30:37 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 22:30:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tr3a ignition redux... Good evening all It is a lovely day in the neighborhood, ok not so much. The '3 is to going but am closer. Just got back from a week working in Europe and first things first. The intake manifold is coming off to have the gasket sealing applied. Undoing all of the stud nuts on top, all good. All tight and came off clean. Now to the two middle lower anchor ones. Hmmm, the one on the left was finger tight?!?!?!? Crap. Ok now the left, the socket doesn't fit, okay larger socket, it was easy as well. Oh crap, crap!! Off it came and looking at it, split down the side ( image ) well that would not hold anything, now will it!!! Okay, so I am replacing the nut?!?!?!? Looking for the collective wisdom here.... * Do I replace the nut with another brass one from Moss etc? Another supplier * Do I replace the nut with a standard steel ( stainless one? )? * Do I replace all of the nuts, now suspect of the strength of the rest of the 60yr old nuts? I am thinking it might be easier to simply replace all of the nuts with stainless... David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: blowby2.png Type: image/png Size: 3496859 bytes Desc: blowby2.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: splitnut2.png Type: image/png Size: 1802994 bytes Desc: splitnut2.png URL: From davidt at opentext.com Sat Aug 18 17:03:44 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 23:03:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re: Proper English for a Proper Car References: <473239988.9875336.1534529304700.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <473239988.9875336.1534529304700@mail.yahoo.com> <012701d43673$01da2700$058e7500$@uprichard.net> <000a01d436a1$058035b0$1080a110$@flash.net> Bill, I think the same company made the brake fluif that was mentioned years ago ? It is totally Lucas reliable. David From: Triumphs On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 11:10 PM To: 'Andrew Uprichard' ; 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car I believe Dave Templeton just referred to ?Starting Fluif? in a post last month. So how many times does a new word have to be used before Webster will recognize it as a real word? Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:08 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures. Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list? I think that his name was Joe-something. Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. Bill in Tehachapi Anglophile, Logophile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Aug 18 17:17:49 2018 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:17:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. References: <90D970FF-0150-4E90-8AE0-92D42B375E06@ca.rr.com> That's what she said.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Aug 18 17:50:14 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:50:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> <4429150e-9e6e-513e-b9b2-06aeea94b6da@verizon.net> Two rules for On August 18, 2018 at 4:06 PM Paul Tegler wrote: > > > Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty > hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. > ...glues and goos...easy to change'em > > ...use to just use them to go to the can. > > heavy work the mech gloves come out > > > ptegler > > > On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. > > > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 18 18:56:16 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:56:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. References: Like Randall - I had early failures on new Lucas Sport coils. Now I use a 50-year-old Lucas Sport coil with a similar one for my on board spare. Those old ones seem to be very long-lived (and look good too). Geo On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 10:45 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > > Thinking of replacing my 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on the TR2; still > works well, but would like to keep it as my "get me home" spare. Wondering > what the current wisdom on coils is? Stick with the Lucas Sport or a > Bosch?? Have conventional ignition. > > Also replacing the old paper wrapped (:-)) condenser with one received > from TRF with a points kit. Happen to have a bunch of condensers from my > old Volvo B18 days (Lucas distributor). Would they work with the TR points? > Do condensers have an ohm rating? > > Thanks for any insights. > > Angelo Graham > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pbaize at satx.rr.com Sat Aug 18 21:19:32 2018 From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 22:19:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> <4429150e-9e6e-513e-b9b2-06aeea94b6da@verizon.net> I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves" Patrick 71 Stag 74 Spitfire 68 chevy c10 On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty > hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. > ...glues and goos...easy to change'em > > ...use to just use them to go to the can. > > heavy work the mech gloves come out > > > ptegler > > > On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: >> I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a >> hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are >> available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. >> >> I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot >> of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but >> after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep >> working. >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net >> > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 01:15:19 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 03:15:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a ignition redux... References: > * Do I replace the nut with another brass one from Moss > etc? Another supplier > * Do I replace the nut with a standard steel ( stainless one? )? > * Do I replace all of the nuts, now suspect of the > strength of the rest of the 60yr old nuts? Are they all brass? If so, I would replace all of them with original type tall steel nuts (TRF 56675); along with new split lock washers and a generous dab of anti-seize on the threads. (I like the copper-based variety.) While it's apart, take time to chase the threads on the studs and inspect for damage. If your thread chaser binds or starts peeling metal from one side of the threads, replace that stud. I also have found that it helps to add a heavy flat washer (aka setup washer) on the outermost studs (the ones that don't have bridge pieces), between the lock washer and manifold. Recheck nuts for tightness after first heat cycle, again at 500 miles, and at normal tune-up intervals. Eventually they will settle down, but keep checking until they are always tight. -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Aug 19 07:13:29 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 09:13:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on the shift lever on my TR4A. Good morning everyone (Pardon my rambling here), I was having some shifting difficulties in my TR4A recently going from 1st to 2nd and from 3rd to 4th. After thinking the worst possible outcome (removing the transmission again) I was relieved to determine the problem was that the two adjusting screws on the left and right sides of the shift lever were not set up correctly. My reason for thinking this is that after removing the top cover, and holding it in my bench vise, the shifting problem was still there. As I started to slowly back out the two screws, I was at one point, able to smoothly shift from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Looking on the internet for suggestions on adjusting those two screws, I read through the Buckeye Triumph technical write up on transmission overhaul but there wasn't much detail on this procedure. I am looking for some "been there, done that" suggestions on adjusting those two screws. Also, should I Loc-Tite the screws once I get them adjusted? I am also going to replace the 3 0-rings around the shift rods while I have the top cover off and I noticed there was oil weeping out from around the rods (Moss vs. TRF?). Wish me luck removing the tapered bolts on the shift forks!! Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A-IRS http://DavesTR4A.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 3386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 08:44:54 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 10:44:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on theshift lever on my TR4A. References: <001001d437be$6c127590$443760b0$@fuse.net> The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate, tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then back off a half turn and tighten the locknut. Seemed to work fine on my Stags (which have a similar lever). https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit tighter. Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to take them loose. AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings. Herman van den Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space. But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and make the standard O-rings seal very well. I bought the Teflon version, but I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well. Sorry I don't recall the size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out. https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx (about 2/3 down) I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is). On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin. But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins). -- Randall From ryel at mac.com Sun Aug 19 09:58:34 2018 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 15:58:34 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves I gotta admit I don't like wearing rubber gloves to work?on cars. ?I just use a good hand cleaner and wash up well. ? I do have some mechanic's gloves that are not disposable, but a thin fabric, and I use them when something is hot. When washing up I use Zep Heavy Duty Degreaser and/or GoJo Hand Cleaner. Rye 1960 TR3 1963 356 1968 912 1988 Carrera 1980 BJ42 On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:58 PM, Patrick Baize wrote: I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves" Patrick 71 Stag 74 Spitfire 68 chevy c10 On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. ...glues and goos...easy to change'em ...use to just use them to go to the can. heavy work the mech gloves come out ptegler On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Sun Aug 19 10:03:48 2018 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 16:03:48 GMT Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves Mainly after lamenting how long it takes to get clean around the fingernails I started wearing disposable latex.Since solvents often dissolve them I added nitrile to the mix.When I get a tear, I usually just add another glove over the top.When you get to 4 or 5 you start to lose a little feel! For heavy duty jobs I used the mechanix gloves but then sears, HF and others produced more budget minded options.I have a drawer full of various options. As far as source, Sams club used to be my go to for both latex & nitrile.A few weeks ago Walmart had both types on sale.I also like the black HF gloves, especially the thicker ones. I haven't had to scrub the nails in a long time but in the nuclear hot Georgia summers, I have occasionallyhad to pour the sweat out of the gloves! The fingers come out shriveled some times from immersion! ---------- Original Message ---------- From: TERRY SMITH To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 10:53:05 -0400 (EDT) Hmmm...for years I've been buying cartons (100 ct) of Diamond Grip Microflex examination gloves for use during doing dirt jobs (say that really really fast?). ...Changing oil and the like. They aren't particularly durable, but then I haven't experimented much to see if any such disposable gloves are. Does anyone have a preference or recommendation for what they like? Thanks,Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 10:40:23 2018 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 12:40:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on theshift lever on my TR4A. References: <001001d437be$6c127590$443760b0$@fuse.net> Randall, I'd be interested in learning how you extracted the broke taper pins from the shifting forks. Ed Woods > On August 19, 2018 at 10:44 AM Randall wrote: > > > The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate, > tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then > back off a half turn and tighten the locknut. Seemed to work fine on my > Stags (which have a similar lever). > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc > > Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit > tighter. Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to > take them loose. > > AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't > fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings. Herman van den > Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space. > But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and > make the standard O-rings seal very well. I bought the Teflon version, but > I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well. Sorry I don't recall the > size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out. > https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx > (about 2/3 down) > > I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there > for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is). > > On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then > use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin. > But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an > earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins). > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From ptegler at verizon.net Sun Aug 19 11:20:10 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 13:20:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <64edc24e-fe54-4712-9e7f-96e131168ab0@me.com> look for a product called? 'liquid glove' It's a hand cream as such that dries. Lather it on, bury it under your finger nails, go up your forearms a bit, dries in about 1/2 minute while you keep rubbing it around. ...give your hands a kind of rubber pencil eraser grip, even when your hands are greasy Fantastic at clean up super easy to wash off with soap and water. Often grease even wipes off with a paper towel doesn't irritate your skin either (at least no one I know yet) ymmv ptegler On 8/19/2018 11:58 AM, Rye Livingston wrote: > I gotta admit I don't like wearing rubber gloves to work?on cars. ?I > just use a good hand cleaner and wash up well. > > I do have some mechanic's gloves that are not disposable, but a thin > fabric, and I use them when something is hot. > > When washing up I use Zep Heavy Duty Degreaser and/or GoJo Hand Cleaner. > > Rye > 1960 TR3 > 1963 356 > 1968 912 > 1988 Carrera > 1980 BJ42 > > > > On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:58 PM, Patrick Baize wrote: > >> I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get >> caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves" >> >> >> Patrick >> >> 71 Stag >> >> 74 Spitfire >> >> 68 chevy c10 >> >> >> >> On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: >>> Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty >>> hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. >>> ...glues and goos...easy to change'em >>> >>> ...use to just use them to go to the can. >>> >>> heavy work the mech gloves come out >>> >>> >>> ptegler >>> >>> >>> wrote: >>>> I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a >>>> hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are >>>> available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. >>>> >>>> I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot >>>> of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but >>>> after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep >>>> working. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net >>>> >>> >> >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joemato at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 19 14:14:23 2018 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 20:14:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 210 References: TRF Summer Party ran 8/16 thru 8/18 and had a rally, autocross and otherevents out in the Western PA alps. I also stocked up on parts and read all the cool TR stuff going back 60 years. Folks camped out in the field which didn't look like fun?with the constant rain. When I had my TR3 I was in my teens andearly 20's. I didn't know about car clubs which would have made things much more interesting.? ? ? ? ? ? ?Joe Mato From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2018 3:14 PM Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 210 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: [EXTERNAL] - Re:? Proper English for a Proper Car ? ? ? (David Templeton) ? 2. Re: TR2/3 coil & condenser info. (Chris Simo) ? 3. Re: mechanics gloves (TERRY SMITH) ? 4. Re: TR2/3 coil & condenser info. (Geo Hahn) ? 5. Re: mechanics gloves (Patrick Baize) ? 6. Re: Tr3a ignition redux... (Randall) ? 7. Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on the ? ? ? shift lever on my TR4A. (Dave Connitt) ? 8. Re: Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on ? ? ? theshift lever on my TR4A. (Randall) ? 9. Re: mechanics gloves (Rye Livingston) ? 10. Re: mechanics gloves (Matt) ? 11. Re: Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on ? ? ? theshift lever on my TR4A. (EDWARD WOODS) ? 12. Re: mechanics gloves (Paul Tegler) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 23:03:44 +0000 From: David Templeton To: wbeech , 'Andrew Uprichard' ??? ,? 'William Brewer' ??? , 'Triumphs List' Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:? Proper English for a Proper Car Message-ID: ??? ??? Bill, I think the same company made the brake fluif that was mentioned years ago ?? It is totally Lucas reliable. David From: Triumphs On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 11:10 PM To: 'Andrew Uprichard' ; 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car I believe Dave Templeton just referred to ?Starting Fluif? in a post last month.? So how many times does a new word have to be used before Webster will recognize it as a real word? Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:08 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Proper English for a Proper Car ? ? I drove my TR3 to work the other morning. When I left my home at o'dark thirty it was in the mid-50's and I wore a leather coat. I live at about the mile high elevation in the southern Sierras. When I left my work in Mojave that afternoon, it was 109 degrees. The car interior felt hotter and hotter inside as I drove and I was looking forward to getting up the hill to cooler temperatures.? Soon thereafter I ran across a new proper English word - "Calescent" which means "growing warm; increasing in heat". I also enjoy using the word "Recalcitrant" to describe the TR's too-fast-a-shift from 1st to 2nd, "recalcitrant" meaning "resisting authority or control; not obedient or compliant". A synonym could be "balk". ? ? Another word that has come in handy many times, especially at parties, is "calipygous". I use it in conversation whenever possible. Usually, ladies say "thank-you" for the compliment and then go home and look it up. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/callipygous ? ? A word I haven't seen used on the Triumphs list recently would be "Fluif". I can't remember who used that misspelling two decades ago, but it has still stuck in my vocabulary. Who was that? Are you still on the list?? I think that his name was Joe-something. ? ? Have a good Friday. Triumph over conformity. ? ? Bill in Tehachapi ? ? Anglophile, Logophile -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:17:49 -0400 From: Chris Simo To: Randall Cc: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. Message-ID: ??? That's what she said.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:50:14 -0400 (EDT) From: TERRY SMITH To: ptegler at verizon.net, glemon at neb.rr.com, Triumphs List ??? Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves Two rules for On August 18, 2018 at 4:06 PM Paul Tegler wrote: > > > Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty > hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. > ...glues and goos...easy to change'em > > ...use to just use them to go to the can. > > heavy work the mech gloves come out > > > ptegler > > > On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. > > > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net? www.teglerizer.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 17:56:16 -0700 From: Geo Hahn To: Angelo Graham Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 coil & condenser info. Message-ID: ??? Like Randall - I had early failures on new Lucas Sport coils.? Now I use a 50-year-old Lucas Sport coil with a similar one for my on board spare. Those old ones seem to be very long-lived (and look good too). Geo On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 10:45 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > > Thinking of replacing my 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on the TR2; still > works well, but would like to keep it as my "get me home" spare. Wondering > what the current wisdom on coils is? Stick with the Lucas Sport or a > Bosch?? Have conventional ignition. > > Also replacing the old paper wrapped (:-)) condenser with one received > from TRF with a points kit. Happen to have a bunch of condensers from my > old Volvo B18 days (Lucas distributor). Would they work with the TR points? > Do condensers have an ohm rating? > > Thanks for any insights. > > Angelo Graham > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 22:19:32 -0500 From: Patrick Baize To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves" Patrick 71 Stag 74 Spitfire 68 chevy c10 On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty > hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. > ...glues and goos...easy to change'em > > ...use to just use them to go to the can. > > heavy work the mech gloves come out > > > ptegler > > > On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: >> I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a >> hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are >> available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. >> >> I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot >> of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but >> after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep >> working. >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net >> > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 03:15:19 -0400 From: "Randall" To: "'David Templeton'" , ??? Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a ignition redux... > *??? Do I replace the nut with another brass one from Moss > etc? Another supplier > *??? Do I replace the nut with a standard steel ( stainless one? )? > *??? Do I replace all of the nuts, now suspect of the > strength of the rest of the 60yr old nuts? Are they all brass?? If so, I would replace all of them with original type tall steel nuts (TRF 56675); along with new split lock washers and a generous dab of anti-seize on the threads.? (I like the copper-based variety.) While it's apart, take time to chase the threads on the studs and inspect for damage.? If your thread chaser binds or starts peeling metal from one side of the threads, replace that stud. I also have found that it helps to add a heavy flat washer (aka setup washer) on the outermost studs (the ones that don't have bridge pieces), between the lock washer and manifold. Recheck nuts for tightness after first heat cycle, again at 500 miles, and at normal tune-up intervals.? Eventually they will settle down, but keep checking until they are always tight. -- Randall? ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 09:13:29 -0400 From: "Dave Connitt" To: "'Triumphs'" Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws ??? on the??? shift lever on my TR4A. Good morning everyone (Pardon my rambling here), I was having some shifting difficulties in my TR4A recently going from 1st to 2nd and from 3rd to 4th.? After thinking the worst possible outcome (removing the transmission again) I was relieved to determine the problem was that the two adjusting screws on the left and right sides of the shift lever were not set up correctly. My reason for thinking this is that after removing the top cover, and holding it in my bench vise, the shifting problem was still there. As I started to slowly back out the two screws, I was at one point, able to smoothly shift from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Looking on the internet for suggestions on adjusting those two screws, I read through the Buckeye Triumph technical write up on transmission overhaul but there wasn't much detail on this procedure. I am looking for some "been there, done that" suggestions on adjusting those two screws. Also, should I Loc-Tite the screws once I get them adjusted? I am also going to replace the 3 0-rings around the shift rods while I have the top cover off and I noticed there was oil weeping out from around the rods (Moss vs. TRF?).? Wish me luck removing the tapered bolts on the shift forks!! Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A-IRS http://DavesTR4A.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 3386 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 10:44:54 -0400 From: "Randall" To: "'Dave Connitt'" , "'Triumphs'" ??? Subject: Re: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop ??? screws on??? theshift lever on my TR4A. The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate, tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then back off a half turn and tighten the locknut.? Seemed to work fine on my Stags (which have a similar lever). https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit tighter.? Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to take them loose. AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings.? Herman van den Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space. But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and make the standard O-rings seal very well.? I bought the Teflon version, but I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well.? Sorry I don't recall the size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out. https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx (about 2/3 down) I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is). On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin. But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins). -- Randall? ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 15:58:34 +0000 (GMT) From: Rye Livingston To: Patrick Baize Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves I gotta admit I don't like wearing rubber gloves to work?on cars. ?I just use a good hand cleaner and wash up well. ? I do have some mechanic's gloves that are not disposable, but a thin fabric, and I use them when something is hot. When washing up I use Zep Heavy Duty Degreaser and/or GoJo Hand Cleaner. Rye 1960 TR3 1963 356 1968 912 1988 Carrera 1980 BJ42 On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:58 PM, Patrick Baize wrote: I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves" Patrick 71 Stag 74 Spitfire 68 chevy c10 On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. ...glues and goos...easy to change'em ...use to just use them to go to the can. heavy work the mech gloves come out ptegler On 8/18/2018 12:57 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred.? I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 16:03:48 GMT From: "Matt" To: Undisclosed-recipients:; Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves Mainly after lamenting how long it takes to get clean around the fingernails I started wearing disposable latex.Since solvents often dissolve them I added nitrile to the mix.When I get a tear, I usually just add another glove over the top.When you get to 4 or 5 you start to lose a little feel! For heavy duty jobs I used the mechanix gloves but then sears, HF and others produced more budget minded options.I have a drawer full of various options. As far as source, Sams club used to be my go to for both latex & nitrile.A few weeks ago Walmart had both types on sale.I also like the black HF gloves, especially the thicker ones. I haven't had to scrub the nails in a long time but in the nuclear hot Georgia summers, I have occasionallyhad to pour the sweat out of the gloves!? The fingers come out shriveled some times from immersion! ---------- Original Message ---------- From: TERRY SMITH To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 10:53:05 -0400 (EDT) Hmmm...for years I've been buying cartons (100 ct) of Diamond Grip Microflex examination gloves for use during doing dirt jobs (say that really really fast?).? ...Changing oil and the like.? They aren't particularly durable, but then I haven't experimented much to see if any such disposable gloves are.? Does anyone have a preference or recommendation for what they like? Thanks,Terry Smith, '59 TR3A? TS 58667New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 12:40:23 -0400 (EDT) From: EDWARD WOODS To: Dave Connitt , Randall , ??? Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop ??? screws on theshift lever on my TR4A. Randall, I'd be interested in learning how you extracted the broke taper pins from the shifting forks. Ed Woods > On August 19, 2018 at 10:44 AM Randall wrote: > > > The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate, > tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then > back off a half turn and tighten the locknut.? Seemed to work fine on my > Stags (which have a similar lever). > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc > > Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit > tighter.? Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to > take them loose. > > AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't > fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings.? Herman van den > Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space. > But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and > make the standard O-rings seal very well.? I bought the Teflon version, but > I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well.? Sorry I don't recall the > size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out. > https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx > (about 2/3 down) > > I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there > for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is). > > On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then > use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin. > But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an > earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins). > > -- Randall? > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 13:20:10 -0400 From: Paul Tegler To: Rye Livingston , Patrick Baize Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves look for a product called? 'liquid glove' It's a hand cream as such that dries. Lather it on, bury it under your finger nails, go up your forearms a bit, dries in about 1/2 minute while you keep rubbing it around. ...give your hands a kind of rubber pencil eraser grip, even when your hands are greasy Fantastic at clean up super easy to wash off with soap and water. Often grease even wipes off with a paper towel doesn't irritate your skin either (at least no one I know yet) ymmv ptegler On 8/19/2018 11:58 AM, Rye Livingston wrote: > I gotta admit I don't like wearing rubber gloves to work?on cars. ?I > just use a good hand cleaner and wash up well. > > I do have some mechanic's gloves that are not disposable, but a thin > fabric, and I use them when something is hot. > > When washing up I use Zep Heavy Duty Degreaser and/or GoJo Hand Cleaner. > > Rye > 1960 TR3 > 1963 356 > 1968 912 > 1988 Carrera > 1980 BJ42 > > > > On Aug 18, 2018, at 11:58 PM, Patrick Baize wrote: > >> I buy dear skin gloves, ranchers use, they are the best. don't get >> caught up with the hype of "mechanics gloves" >> >> >> Patrick >> >> 71 Stag >> >> 74 Spitfire >> >> 68 chevy c10 >> >> >> >> On 8/18/2018 3:06 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: >>> Costco...cheap...usually where two pair on top each other....sweaty >>> hands it's easier to put a second glove on over the first. >>> ...glues and goos...easy to change'em >>> >>> ...use to just use them to go to the can. >>> >>> heavy work the mech gloves come out >>> >>> >>> ptegler >>> >>> >>> wrote: >>>> I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a >>>> hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are >>>> available and cheap.? It doesn't take much to tear them. >>>> >>>> I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot >>>> of cleanup time.? On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but >>>> after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep >>>> working. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net >>>> >>> >> >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net? www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 210 ***************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Aug 19 14:57:48 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 16:57:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on theshift lever on my TR4A. References: <001001d437be$6c127590$443760b0$@fuse.net> Hi Randall, Regarding the shift lever adjustment, the more I think about it, using Loc-Tite would not really do much for the reason you state below. It was just a thought I guess. I couldn't believe what a profound difference could be achieved in the shifting by adjusting those two bolts! The action went from no second gear to butter smooth in all 4 gears! Well, shifting the top cover held in my bench vise anyway. On the o-ring replacement, I am struggling to safely removing the tapered bolts holding the shift forks to the shift rods. Using a 6-point 3/8" socket on a short extension, I broke the first pin I tried to remove. It sheared off right at the transition from thread to pin although after examining the break, there was a partial shear on the bolt from a previous removal. I have another top cover coming my way from Team Triumph tomorrow but would like to hear about any suggestions on removing the broken pin on the cover I have now although it looks like the bolt is NLA anyway. Does anyone know of a source for these bolts? I am not sure if I should just forget about addressing the possible oil leak on the cover coming from Team Triumph and make a habit of checking the transmission fluid level more frequently? It's not encouraging to hear that the o-rings being sold as replacements don't seal very well. I would hate to go through all this only to still have a leak. I read in the Buckeye Triumph transmission rebuild section on the top cover renovation that the author recommended a Buna-N #112 which had a 1/2" ID, 11/16" OD and a 3/32 cross section so I ordered a box of 100 from McMaster Carr. I'll let you guys know how they fit if I get that far. That is if I decide to try and remove the shift forks! Thanks for the suggestions Randall, Dave Connitt -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2018 10:45 AM To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on theshift lever on my TR4A. The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate, tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then back off a half turn and tighten the locknut. Seemed to work fine on my Stags (which have a similar lever). https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit tighter. Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to take them loose. AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings. Herman van den Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space. But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and make the standard O-rings seal very well. I bought the Teflon version, but I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well. Sorry I don't recall the size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out. https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx (about 2/3 down) I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is). On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin. But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 19 15:48:43 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2018 17:48:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need tips/suggestions on adjusting the two stop screws on theshift lever on my TR4A. References: <001001d437be$6c127590$443760b0$@fuse.net> <000001d437ff$55d3d080$017b7180$@fuse.net> I was able to drill out the broken pins; they don't seem to be hardened through the center (if at all). I started with a sharp 1/16" drill bit (less than $12/dozen from MMC), and held the drill motor at an angle to move the hole until it was centered on the broken screw as well as I could manage. Drilled all the way through, continuing to make corrections as necessary/possible to keep the hole centered as well as I could. IIRC, I then used a Dremel & small stone to clean up the entry hole, then followed with larger and larger bits until the pin fell apart. Once the threaded portion separates from the taper portion, you can remove the fork and tap out the tapered portion from the other side with a punch. I picked the remains of the threaded portion out of the fork with a dental pick, then chased the threads. Sorry, I don't recall the threads offhand; it's possible they were British rather than SAE. A brief search turned up replacement pins at several places; Canley was the cheapest I found. They mostly specialize in the 'small' Triumphs but they're good people. https://www.canleyclassics.com/demoapp/?ptno=122653 Although that's not the usual TR4 number, they appear to be interchangeable https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-tr6-late-top-cover-extension-and-sele ctors -- Randall From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Aug 20 06:04:53 2018 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 08:04:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <20180819.120348.5509.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 1:08 PM Matt wrote: > > I haven't had to scrub the nails in a long time but in the nuclear hot Georgia summers, I have occasionally > had to pour the sweat out of the gloves! The fingers come out shriveled some times from immersion! That's why I like the cheap HF gloves. They blow out often enough that you are forced to take a break and dry your hands off, then glove up again. -- Jeff From dorpaul1 at gmail.com Mon Aug 20 07:03:45 2018 From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 09:03:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> <361220945.666261.1534627212578@connect.xfinity.com> I think real men don't wear these gloves! Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 5:20 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > Gadfrey. You too !!! > > On August 18, 2018 at 3:49 PM Geo Hahn wrote: > > Not only does Harbor Freight sell some decent cheap gloves (nitrile, 100 > for $4.79) - they also have a dispenser which I find to be *hand*y. > > https://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-glovetissue- > dispenser-red-69322.html > > > > > Geo > > On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 9:57 AM, wrote: > > I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a > hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available > and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. > > I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of > cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after > the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/dorpaul1 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1177684 bytes Desc: not available URL: From davidt at opentext.com Mon Aug 20 07:26:16 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 13:26:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Ok so the other project, besides getting the '3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 07:41:19 2018 From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 13:41:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Specs On YouTube I saw a guy rebuilding a TR4 engine. He had a sheet which contained the bare specs for block and Crankshaft without the bearing shells. My manual shows only the clearances and crank journal size But not for block. Anyone know where I can get a copy of the block specs on line? I?m looking for the size of the thrust bearing surface before the shells are installed. Bob Nogueira Bob Nogueira From dorpaul1 at gmail.com Mon Aug 20 08:06:11 2018 From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 10:06:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mechanics Gloves Real men don't wear these gloves! I am on my way to Harbor Freight! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Mon Aug 20 08:41:13 2018 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 14:41:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. Stan ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 10:09:14 2018 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 16:09:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: buy a new one.old wire is the source of constant exploration of faults and source of devastating fire.i recommend british wire as they can add additional wires in your loom for things like the cigar lighter and electric radiator fan. frank On Monday, August 20, 2018, 6:52:42 AM PDT, David Templeton wrote: Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix.? I have started to move over, and refurbish, components.? I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness?? Generalized thoughts? Opinions?? Experiences? Suppliers?? ?? ? Regards David ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Mon Aug 20 11:10:08 2018 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 12:10:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Agreed, Stan. For the (relatively) low cost and simplicity of a sidescreen TR wiring harness, upgrading is a fine thing to do during a rebuild. I wouldn't want to have to deal with the multiple, inevitable, problems of an old loom during recommissioning and daily life with the car. I got mine from TRF during their couple-of-times-a-year sales on wiring, and it's been fine. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 9:41 AM, Stan Foster wrote: > For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a > mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even > inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted > to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. > > Stan > ------------------------------ > *From:* Triumphs on behalf of David > Templeton > *Sent:* Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM > *To:* 'Triumphs List' > *Subject:* [TR] to loom or not to loom... > > > Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body > replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, > components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should > I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? > Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? > > > > Regards > > David > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Mon Aug 20 12:32:21 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 18:32:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Ok off to loom we go, now checking out the various suppliers, wow ? I mean wow!!! Harness - RKC959 - Spitfire 1500 Main Wiring Harness FM 10,001 - 28,000 British Wiring http://www.britishwiring.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500-Main-Wiring-Harness-p/1523.htm $532.00USD + $30USD --> $733CDN Rimmer https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005845 ?301.00 + ?20.50 -> $535.75CDN TRF http://trf.zeni.net/spitfireGB/100.php $449USD + unknown shipping --> $586CDN Spitbits http://www.spitbits.com/store/56c-MAIN-HARNESS-1500-FM10001-up-to-FM28000--P3641.aspx $548usd + unknown shipping --> $715CDN SC Parts https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/triumph/triumph-spitfire-mkiii-mkiv-and-1500-1967-1980/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/wiring-loom.html ?331.63 + ?50 shipping --> $636CDN MOSS https://mossmotors.com/main-wiring-harness-1?assoc=46385 $579.99USD + $94.99USD shipping --> $811CDN Not insignificant differences in prices for the same harness ? Surprisingly Rimmer seems to be most cost effective? Other suppliers I am missing??? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 20 12:35:49 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 13:35:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Can?t advise you as whether you should or shouldn?t, depends on the condition of your present harness, is it frayed, cracked, chaffed where it goes through the body/chassis? If you decide to replace it, I have bought my last three harnesses from Auto Sparks in the U.K., 2-TR3A & 1-Morgan. Web site is very clear for easy ordering and they have accessories if you need them. I figure I saved at least $100 each, shipping included. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/ NFI, Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 20, 2018, at 8:26 AM, David Templeton wrote: Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3a58 at verizon.net Mon Aug 20 12:49:29 2018 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 14:49:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... I generally replace wiring harnesses. Don't find many in good shape. I order them directly from the UK. I use www.autosparks.co.uk Delivery is usually fast and not that expensive. They have a good web site and order directly from it. I always use new bullit connectors and sleeves with dielectric grease. Dean Dean Tetterton tr3a58 at verizon.net -----Original Message----- From: Stan Foster To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton Sent: Mon, Aug 20, 2018 12:56 pm Subject: Re: [TR] to loom or not to loom... For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. Stan From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Mon Aug 20 12:58:17 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 18:58:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Agreed, my ?3a was a complete replacement and I was glad of it ? the one are to not worry about. Even now, 16yrs later no worries about that part?. From: Stan Foster Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:41 AM To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: to loom or not to loom... For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. Stan ________________________________ Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Aug 20 14:15:08 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 16:15:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: <1048396343.10217881.1534781354053@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Frank, I installed an Advanced Autowire harness in my ?67 TR4A about 5 years ago as part of a frame off restoration. It is by far, one of the best decisions I made in selecting uprated parts. The wire quality is far superior to a standard harness and the supplied bullet connectors are machined brass vs. the stamped tin plated stock connectors. The biggest decision I had to make was were to install the ?POWER BLOCK? and I ended up installing it in the upper portion of the passenger side footwell. I had invested in a good bullet crimp tool, wire stripper and one of those little special pliers to force the bullet connectors into the connectors. If you go to my website and navigate to the Electrical page, you will be able to see how I installed it. If you have a basic understanding of electrical schematics, you should have no problems. Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS http://DavesTR4A.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 12:09 PM To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton Subject: Re: [TR] to loom or not to loom... buy a new one. old wire is the source of constant exploration of faults and source of devastating fire. i recommend british wire as they can add additional wires in your loom for things like the cigar lighter and electric radiator fan. frank Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Aug 20 16:05:53 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 17:05:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Marx Design Rear Viton Crank Seal. Available. List, I used to supply Distributors with these, but they are buying direct now. I have a few left at the lowest price in the world. No machining necessary. ?Kas Kastner?s Triumphs?. I will also include the last book Kas published. It has a full chapter on ?Avoiding oil leaks in the wet sleeve engines?. It discussed the Marx Viton Seal, as well. Any interest? Contact me directly. Thanks, N197tr4 at cs.com Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From davidt at opentext.com Mon Aug 20 17:32:07 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 23:32:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] if you see a fluffy guy dancing around like a complete idiot.... IT'S ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.facebook.com/davidt50/videos/10155497154256960/ ( open to the public ) a sound I can never, ever, ever get bored with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My deepest thanks to this list for getting this far. There is still tuning and adjust, but man does she sound strong. I think stronger now than when I first built her. David Ps: lot to do but savoring the moment. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peterara at msn.com Mon Aug 20 17:57:33 2018 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 23:57:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator 1971 TR6 - thoughts, please. I am looking at Wizard, Giffin, Ron Davis. Any advice? Contact me directly, need to decide by morning. Thanks, Peter Arakelian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 18:10:33 2018 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 00:10:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: <1048396343.10217881.1534781354053@mail.yahoo.com> <003501d438c2$7e201670$7a604350$@fuse.net> thanks dave On Monday, August 20, 2018, 1:15:06 PM PDT, Dave Connitt wrote: Hi Frank, I installed an Advanced Autowire harness in my ?67 TR4A about 5 years ago as part of a frame off restoration. It is by far, one of the best decisions I made in selecting uprated parts. The wire quality is far superior to a standard harness and the supplied bullet connectors are machined brass vs. the stamped tin plated stock connectors. The biggest decision I had to make was were to install the ?POWER BLOCK? and I ended up installing it in the upper portion of the passenger side footwell. I had invested in a good bullet crimp tool, wire stripper and one of those little special pliers to force the bullet connectors into the connectors. ? If you go to my website and navigate to the Electrical page, you will be able to see how I installed it. If you have a basic understanding of electrical schematics, you should have no problems. Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS http://DavesTR4A.com ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 12:09 PM To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton Subject: Re: [TR] to loom or not to loom... ? buy a new one. old wire is the source of constant exploration of faults and source of devastating fire. i recommend british wire as they can add additional wires in your loom for things like the cigar lighter and electric radiator fan. ? frank ? ? On Monday, August 20, 2018, 6:52:42 AM PDT, David Templeton wrote: ? ? Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix.? I have started to move over, and refurbish, components.? I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness?? Generalized thoughts? Opinions?? Experiences? Suppliers?? ?? ? Regards David ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Aug 20 18:56:05 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 20:56:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Ditto on that. My 3A came with rusted out floors and sills, 3 inches of racoon poop in the engine bay, and fecal dust that blanketed the air as I pounded brake drums to loosen them enough to push out of a shed in Ossinee, NY. Replacing the wiring loom seemed...uhm...wise. No wiring problems since I did it in 2004. Daily driver. Although. Have gutted the bathroom in our house, so had to move the car outside for the duration. Even with a top-rated tonneau and a car cover on top, water still pooled in the trunk and on the floors. Still no problem with wiring. But have to wonder, how do people actually drive in the rain? Was it EVER dry inside???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > On August 20, 2018 at 2:58 PM David Templeton wrote: > > > Agreed, my ?3a was a complete replacement and I was glad of it ? the one are to not worry about. Even now, 16yrs later no worries about that part?. > > > > From: Stan Foster > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:41 AM > To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: to loom or not to loom... > > > > For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. > > Stan > > > --------------------------------------------- > > From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM > To: 'Triumphs List' > Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... > > > > Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? > > > > Regards > > David > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Aug 20 18:56:14 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 20:56:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Ditto on that. My 3A came with rusted out floors and sills, 3 inches of racoon poop in the engine bay, and fecal dust that blanketed the air as I pounded brake drums to loosen them enough to push out of a shed in Ossinee, NY. Replacing the wiring loom seemed...uhm...wise. No wiring problems since I did it in 2004. Daily driver. Although. Have gutted the bathroom in our house, so had to move the car outside for the duration. Even with a top-rated tonneau and a car cover on top, water still pooled in the trunk and on the floors. Still no problem with wiring. But have to wonder, how do people actually drive in the rain? Was it EVER dry inside???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > On August 20, 2018 at 2:58 PM David Templeton wrote: > > > Agreed, my ?3a was a complete replacement and I was glad of it ? the one are to not worry about. Even now, 16yrs later no worries about that part?. > > > > From: Stan Foster > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:41 AM > To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: to loom or not to loom... > > > > For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. > > Stan > > > --------------------------------------------- > > From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM > To: 'Triumphs List' > Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... > > > > Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? > > > > Regards > > David > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Mon Aug 20 21:59:01 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 03:59:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] red light, huh? Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 20 22:16:55 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 00:16:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: Oddly enough, TS13571L is still wearing it's original loom, rotting fabric and all. Beyond repairing a few DPO-isms and adding some wires for new features; it has been zero trouble. That includes (for the past few years now) running a 60 amp alternator through the original brown and brown/white wires. Cleaning the old oxide when making a solder connection is an extra step, but I wouldn't describe it as a PITA by any means. All it takes is a quick dip in Tarn-X and it's ready to go. Or, if you don't have a bottle of Tarn-X in your solder kit (why not?), a few scrapes with a pocket knife will do: https://imgur.com/xOQOV0W BTW, the solder type bullets work fine for me. I don't own one of those expensive crimpers and I don't particularly trust crimps to make a durable electrical connection. Years ago, I worked for a company that sold and installed computer systems on seismic survey ships. A single installation would have hundreds of crimped-on terminals; installed by trained technicians (who were required to take periodic refresher courses), using expensive ratcheting crimp tools (calibrated every year) and high quality terminals (not the junk at the corner FLAPS). The wiring was also inspected before it went out. And every single installation that I went out on had at least one bad connection. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Aug 21 05:44:57 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 07:44:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: <6007643.246255.1534812965211@connect.xfinity.com> Oh, and by the way. I wasn't keeping the car in the bathroom! Just needed space in the garage to cut drywall, pvc, and insulation, etc. > On August 20, 2018 at 8:56 PM TERRY SMITH wrote: > > > Ditto on that. My 3A came with rusted out floors and sills, 3 inches of racoon poop in the engine bay, and fecal dust that blanketed the air as I pounded brake drums to loosen them enough to push out of a shed in Ossinee, NY. Replacing the wiring loom seemed...uhm...wise. > > > No wiring problems since I did it in 2004. Daily driver. > > > Although. Have gutted the bathroom in our house, so had to move the car outside for the duration. Even with a top-rated tonneau and a car cover on top, water still pooled in the trunk and on the floors. Still no problem with wiring. But have to wonder, how do people actually drive in the rain? Was it EVER dry inside???? > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > > > > > On August 20, 2018 at 2:58 PM David Templeton wrote: > > > > > > Agreed, my ?3a was a complete replacement and I was glad of it ? the one are to not worry about. Even now, 16yrs later no worries about that part?. > > > > > > > > From: Stan Foster > > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:41 AM > > To: 'Triumphs List' ; David Templeton > > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: to loom or not to loom... > > > > > > > > For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. > > > > Stan > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > > > From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton > > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM > > To: 'Triumphs List' > > Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... > > > > > > > > Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? > > > > > > > > Regards > > > > David > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 21 05:49:32 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:49:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re: to loom or not to loom... References: <6007643.246255.1534812965211@connect.xfinity.com> <1457412334.232759.1534851897882@connect.xfinity.com> Uh huh, yeap, sure. We all know the TR was in the bathroom LOL From: TERRY SMITH Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 7:45 AM To: David Templeton ; Triumphs List ; Stan Foster Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Oh, and by the way. I wasn't keeping the car in the bathroom! Just needed space in the garage to cut drywall, pvc, and insulation, etc. Ditto on that. My 3A came with rusted out floors and sills, 3 inches of racoon poop in the engine bay, and fecal dust that blanketed the air as I pounded brake drums to loosen them enough to push out of a shed in Ossinee, NY. Replacing the wiring loom seemed...uhm...wise. No wiring problems since I did it in 2004. Daily driver. Although. Have gutted the bathroom in our house, so had to move the car outside for the duration. Even with a top-rated tonneau and a car cover on top, water still pooled in the trunk and on the floors. Still no problem with wiring. But have to wonder, how do people actually drive in the rain? Was it EVER dry inside???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire Agreed, my ?3a was a complete replacement and I was glad of it ? the one are to not worry about. Even now, 16yrs later no worries about that part?. Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:41 AM Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: to loom or not to loom... For my TR3 the fabric on the old loom had mostly rotted away and it was a mess with many bits of wire spliced in. The actual wire was oxidized even inside the plastic insulation so doing anything with it was a pita. I opted to replace it with a new loom and it was money well spent. Stan ________________________________ Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:26:16 AM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Ok so the other project, besides getting the ?3 going is the body replacement on the spsitsix. I have started to move over, and refurbish, components. I am looking at the wiring harness and I am wondering, should I pull and reuse the old one OR put out the cash and get a new harness? Generalized thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? Suppliers? Regards David Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 21 06:25:56 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 08:25:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: <800419635.246269.1534812974690@connect.xfinity.com> > But > have to wonder, how do people actually drive in the rain? > Was it EVER dry inside???? Only when it wasn't raining! Seriously, after a drive in the rain, you have to remove the seats and carpets/mats to get things dry again. I actually blocked off the defroster vent holes, to try to help keep the interior drier when parking in the rain. Frequent attention to the drip rail drains will help the trunk stay dry (er). -- Randall From deruiterville at hotmail.com Tue Aug 21 07:21:29 2018 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 13:21:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator References: Peter- Brice Thomas Radiators https://www.cgj.com/store/category/triumph-radiators/ Have one in my 70 TR6. Very well made great price you won?t be disappointed Randy Sent from my iPhone 1971 TR6 - thoughts, please. I am looking at Wizard, Giffin, Ron Davis. Any advice? Contact me directly, need to decide by morning. Thanks, Peter Arakelian Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue Aug 21 10:40:04 2018 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 09:40:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] to loom or not to loom... References: There is also Auto Sparks: https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder I got a harness for my 2000 Roadster from them that was good quality. They are in the UK. And Rhode Island Wiring: http://www.riwire.com/ They seem pretty expensive though. Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 11:32 AM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: Re: [TR] to loom or not to loom... Ok off to loom we go, now checking out the various suppliers, wow ? I mean wow!!! Harness - RKC959 - Spitfire 1500 Main Wiring Harness FM 10,001 - 28,000 British Wiring http://www.britishwiring.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500-Main-Wiring-Harness-p/1523.htm $532.00USD + $30USD --> $733CDN Rimmer https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005845 ?301.00 + ?20.50 -> $535.75CDN TRF http://trf.zeni.net/spitfireGB/100.php $449USD + unknown shipping --> $586CDN Spitbits http://www.spitbits.com/store/56c-MAIN-HARNESS-1500-FM10001-up-to-FM28000--P3641.aspx $548usd + unknown shipping --> $715CDN SC Parts https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/triumph/triumph-spitfire-mkiii-mkiv-and-1500-1967-1980/electrics-ignition-system-heating-and-dashboard/wiring-loom.html ?331.63 + ?50 shipping --> $636CDN MOSS https://mossmotors.com/main-wiring-harness-1?assoc=46385 $579.99USD + $94.99USD shipping --> $811CDN Not insignificant differences in prices for the same harness ? Surprisingly Rimmer seems to be most cost effective? Other suppliers I am missing??? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com Tue Aug 21 11:00:11 2018 From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 13:00:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] if you see a fluffy guy dancing around like a complete idiot.... References: I'm sure someone will eventually mention it, but let me be the first. I think your engine runs very smoothly considering the front carb is missing the damper & cap assembly. I'm sure it is laying around somewhere. Bob Tr3abobm77 at frontier.com From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 7:32 PM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] if you see a fluffy guy dancing around like a complete idiot.... IT'S ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.facebook.com/davidt50/videos/10155497154256960/ ( open to the public ) a sound I can never, ever, ever get bored with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My deepest thanks to this list for getting this far. There is still tuning and adjust, but man does she sound strong. I think stronger now than when I first built her. David Ps: lot to do but savoring the moment. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 21 11:03:51 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 17:03:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: if you see a fluffy guy dancing around like a complete idiot.... References: <000001d43970$6cc18810$46449830$@frontier.com> Bob The damper is sitting behind the battery, it fell down ? but at idle she is smooth. There is no oil in either pot yet as well. So touching the throttle, sputters a little, as I would expect? Today, oil and damper? From: Triumph Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:00 PM To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] if you see a fluffy guy dancing around like a complete idiot.... I?m sure someone will eventually mention it, but let me be the first. I think your engine runs very smoothly considering the front carb is missing the damper & cap assembly. I?m sure it is laying around somewhere. Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 7:32 PM Subject: [TR] if you see a fluffy guy dancing around like a complete idiot.... IT?S ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.facebook.com/davidt50/videos/10155497154256960/ ( open to the public ) a sound I can never, ever, ever get bored with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My deepest thanks to this list for getting this far. There is still tuning and adjust, but man does she sound strong. I think stronger now than when I first built her. David Ps: lot to do but savoring the moment. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Aug 21 12:14:00 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:14:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] red light, huh? 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh? From: "David Templeton" Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm To: "'Triumphs List'" Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Aug 21 15:50:19 2018 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 15:50:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] List mail I may be making progress on various issues with Team.Net email. Or I may be making matters worse.? Hopefully things are getting better, and mail to the lists might get sped up a bit. mjb. From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Aug 21 15:16:15 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:16:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself. Andew --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? From: "David Templeton" Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" , "'Triumphs List'" From: auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box… https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild…. 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh? From: "David Templeton" Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm To: "'Triumphs List'" Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Aug 21 15:13:03 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:13:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? If the red light is on, you are not charging the system. If you have a modern alternator, I agree no need for the control box, but you still need to connect wires. I can send a pic when I get home at the end of the week. I don't think you can conclude anything from the ammeter until the system is charging. It is probably correcto, a small draw and the battery not charging. So wait until you fix the red light problem. Do you have the gearbox cover on? If not, does the cross-shaft move when you put you foot on the clutch? If the cover is on, have someone look underneath. There is a difference between crunching going into gear, but you still have a clutch, and being unable to find a gear with the engine running. If you start the car in gear and your foot is on the clutch, does it lurch? 60 psi at warm idle is great, maybe even a little high. Watch you don't go too high when driving. --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? From: "David Templeton" Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" , "'Triumphs List'" From: auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box… https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild…. 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh? From: "David Templeton" Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm To: "'Triumphs List'" Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 21 14:32:53 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 20:32:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? References: <20180821111400.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.cb09a01a25.mailapi@email09.godaddy.com> From: auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box? https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?. 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh? Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 21 16:53:06 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 22:53:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? References: <20180821141615.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.ccb6bae867.mailapi@email09.godaddy.com> Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?.. From: auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:16 PM To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself. Andew --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box? https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?. 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh? Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 21 20:33:14 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 02:33:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] clearer second run... https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0 David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Aug 22 04:36:01 2018 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:36:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? References: <20180821141615.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.ccb6bae867.mailapi@email09.godaddy.com>, David- I missed earlier discussion on what you used for an alternator, but I assume you changed out the control box at the time you put in the alternator. If the alternator is a 3 wire Nippon Denso style as it looks like it might be in your picture, check the wiring to poles 1&2 on your alternator. For Pole 2, are you using switched power, or is the power on all the time? If its on full time, it might be why the charge light is on as well. Randy ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:53 PM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; 'Triumphs List' Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?.. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From PeterAra at msn.com Wed Aug 22 06:11:53 2018 From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 12:11:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve. Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact. Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 22 07:47:45 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:47:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] clearer second run... References: Looking good, smooth. Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 21, 2018, at 9:33 PM, David Templeton wrote: https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0 David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 22 08:04:11 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:04:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? References: <20180821111400.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.cb09a01a25.mailapi@email09.godaddy.com> > [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box. > > https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_1015 > 4791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat > =0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 Ok, so where is the wire to the light attached? With your changes to the control box, the 'D' terminal is now hot all the time, which will keep the light on if the light is still connected to 'D' (as original). There should be a separate output from the alternator that feeds the light and only the light. -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 22 09:23:56 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:23:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator References: On 8/22/18 5:11 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote: > Thanks to all for the input.? I have decided to go big bucks and get a > radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ.? Spoke directly with several > makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses.? The Wizard was > very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the > brass drain valve.? Brass and aluminum do not go together.? Even > though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up > tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact. > Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 Instead of a drain valve, I prefer to use a threaded plug that has a sacrificial zinc anode attached. TeriAnn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hoytduff at gmail.com Wed Aug 22 09:43:38 2018 From: hoytduff at gmail.com (Hoyt Duff) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 11:43:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator References: You just use anti-sieze on the threads, which ameliorates the corrosion problem. On 8/22/18, Peter Arakelian wrote: > Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a > radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers, > and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but > one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve. > Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have > not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and > aluminum eating away when in contact. > Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 > -- -- Hoyt From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 22 20:09:14 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 21:09:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] List mail References: <82f5ba8b-8bb1-f794-cdca-5dc1e231a3a7@bradakis.com> Thanks Mark, sure appreciate all you do for us. Bill TS30800L Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 21, 2018, at 4:50 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: I may be making progress on various issues with Team.Net email. Or I may be making matters worse. Hopefully things are getting better, and mail to the lists might get sped up a bit. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 11:31:10 2018 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 12:31:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> I found the original manual for my Sears Craftsman DigiTork torque wrench, circa 1981. Copy attached for those who might be able to use it, and apologies for wasting the bandwith of everyone else. As we all know, there's no provision for user calibration, and they state it's not possible. They do note three things I'd forgotten over the years: (1) that 25% of full scale is the minimum target for storage of the wrench. I usually go al the way to zero. (2) the wrench should be allowed to recover for four hours or so if the wrench has been left tensioned for more than a few hours. (3) the wrench should be recalibrated every 10,000 cycles in a production environment. At that rate, I have another hundred years or more before mine needs it. On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 12:38 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > My Craftsman torque wrench fell apart. If I recall these things did fall > under their life time warranty . I bought a new one. > > I still have it . > > One day I will get to it > > Sujit > > On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 8:24 AM, John Innis wrote: > >> The only time I have ever needed to calibrate a wrench was because it >> broke. On my Craftsman that I bought in 1993 the adjustment nut came loose >> after about 20 years of service, so I reassembled it and re-calibrated. >> Since I had the set up there I also tested another Craftsman I had of the >> same vintage and a Snap-ON I bought in 2016. Both of the other two >> wrenches were within 5 ft-lbs. which I consider to be about as good as you >> are going to get with this style of wrench. When I was working on >> airplanes for a living the shop sent torque wrenches out for re-calibration >> every 12 months. I have no idea if the service that we used ever did any >> adjustment on them or not. >> >> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: >> >>> That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to >>> confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many >>> years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off >>> are they usually? >>> >>> Greg Lemon >>> TR250 >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> ================================= >> = Never offend people with style when you = >> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = >> ================================= >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Craftsman DigiTork manual 1981 06 01.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 3370279 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Aug 23 12:40:54 2018 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Michael Coe) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 12:40:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 213 References: The aluminum radiator I installed in my TR8 many years ago is a huge, huge blessing !! Mike - Calgary > On Aug 22, 2018, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net) > 2. List mail (Mark J Bradakis) > 3. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net) > 4. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net) > 5. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (David Templeton) > 6. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (David Templeton) > 7. clearer second run... (David Templeton) > 8. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) > 9. Aluminum radiator (Peter Arakelian) > 10. Re: clearer second run... (Wbeech at flash.net) > 11. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (Randall) > 12. Re: Aluminum radiator (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) > 13. Re: Aluminum radiator (Hoyt Duff) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:14:00 -0700 > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > To: "David Templeton" , "'Triumphs List'" > > Subject: Re: [TR] red light, huh? > Message-ID: > <20180821111400.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.cb09a01a25.mailapi at email09.godaddy.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. > 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. > 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox > 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh? > From: "David Templeton" > Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm > To: "'Triumphs List'" > > Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: > > Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? > > > David > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 15:50:19 -0600 > From: Mark J Bradakis > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [TR] List mail > Message-ID: <82f5ba8b-8bb1-f794-cdca-5dc1e231a3a7 at bradakis.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > I may be making progress on various issues with Team.Net email. Or I may > be making matters worse.? Hopefully things are getting better, and mail > to the lists might get sped up a bit. > > mjb. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:16:15 -0700 > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > To: "David Templeton" , "'Triumphs List'" > > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > Message-ID: > <20180821141615.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.ccb6bae867.mailapi at email09.godaddy.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself. > > Andew > > --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > From: "David Templeton" > Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm > To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" , "'Triumphs List'" > > > > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM > To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > > 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. > [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box… > https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 > > But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? > > > 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. > [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value > > > 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox > [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild…. > > > 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. > [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > --------- Original Message --------- > Subject: [TR] red light, huh? > From: "David Templeton" > Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm > To: "'Triumphs List'" > Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: > > Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? > > > David > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:13:03 -0700 > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > To: "David Templeton" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > Message-ID: > <20180821141303.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.756ae5fc54.mailapi at email09.godaddy.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > If the red light is on, you are not charging the system. If you have a modern alternator, I agree no need for the control box, but you still need to connect wires. I can send a pic when I get home at the end of the week. I don't think you can conclude anything from the ammeter until the system is charging. It is probably correcto, a small draw and the battery not charging. So wait until you fix the red light problem. > > Do you have the gearbox cover on? If not, does the cross-shaft move when you put you foot on the clutch? If the cover is on, have someone look underneath. There is a difference between crunching going into gear, but you still have a clutch, and being unable to find a gear with the engine running. If you start the car in gear and your foot is on the clutch, does it lurch? > > 60 psi at warm idle is great, maybe even a little high. Watch you don't go too high when driving. > > > --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > From: "David Templeton" > Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm > To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" , "'Triumphs List'" > > > > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM > To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > > 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. > [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box… > https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 > > But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? > > > 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. > [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value > > > 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox > [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild…. > > > 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. > [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > --------- Original Message --------- > Subject: [TR] red light, huh? > From: "David Templeton" > Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm > To: "'Triumphs List'" > Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: > > Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? > > > David > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 20:32:53 +0000 > From: David Templeton > To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" , 'Triumphs > List' > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM > To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > > 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. > [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box? > https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 > > But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? > > 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. > [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value > > 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox > [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?. > > 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. > [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > --------- Original Message --------- > Subject: [TR] red light, huh? > Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm > Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: > > > * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? > * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? > * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) > * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? > > David > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 22:53:06 +0000 > From: David Templeton > To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" , 'Triumphs > List' > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?.. > > From: auprichard at uprichard.net > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:16 PM > To: David Templeton ; 'Triumphs List' > Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > > I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself. > > Andew > > --------- Original Message --------- > Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM > Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh? > > 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage regulator, but could be the generator. > [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box? > https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 > > But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be flowing in the system?!?!?!? > > 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed. > [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, not a large value > > 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox > [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?. > > 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold engine. > [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > --------- Original Message --------- > Subject: [TR] red light, huh? > Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm > Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things: > > > * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on all the time???? > * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more charging? > * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word ) > * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does this collective like that? > > David > ard at uprichard.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 02:33:14 +0000 > From: David Templeton > To: 'Triumphs List' > Subject: [TR] clearer second run... > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0 > > > David > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:36:01 +0000 > From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter > To: David Templeton , 'Triumphs List' > > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > David- > > > I missed earlier discussion on what you used for an alternator, but I assume you changed out the control box at the time you put in the alternator. If the alternator is a 3 wire Nippon Denso style as it looks like it might be in your picture, check the wiring to poles 1&2 on your alternator. For Pole 2, are you using switched power, or is the power on all the time? If its on full time, it might be why the charge light is on as well. > > Randy > ________________________________ > From: Triumphs on behalf of David Templeton > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:53 PM > To: auprichard at uprichard.net; 'Triumphs List' > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > > > Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?.. > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 12:11:53 +0000 > From: Peter Arakelian > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve. Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact. > Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:47:45 -0500 > From: "Wbeech at flash.net" > To: David Templeton > Cc: Triumphs List > Subject: Re: [TR] clearer second run... > Message-ID: <4DB7F8C0-8961-42A8-A9DB-DDBA24E9C9D8 at flash.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Looking good, smooth. > Bill > > Sent from my Handspring Treo > > On Aug 21, 2018, at 9:33 PM, David Templeton wrote: > > > https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0 > > > David > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:04:11 -0400 > From: "Randall" > To: "'David Templeton'" , "'Triumphs List'" > > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box. >> >> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_1015 >> 4791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat >> =0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4 > > Ok, so where is the wire to the light attached? With your changes to the > control box, the 'D' terminal is now hot all the time, which will keep the > light on if the light is still connected to 'D' (as original). > > There should be a separate output from the alternator that feeds the light > and only the light. > > -- Randall > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:23:56 -0700 > From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiator > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > On 8/22/18 5:11 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote: >> Thanks to all for the input.? I have decided to go big bucks and get a >> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ.? Spoke directly with several >> makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses.? The Wizard was >> very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the >> brass drain valve.? Brass and aluminum do not go together.? Even >> though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up >> tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact. >> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 > Instead of a drain valve, I prefer to use a threaded plug that has a > sacrificial zinc anode attached. > > TeriAnn > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 11:43:38 -0400 > From: Hoyt Duff > To: Peter Arakelian > Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiator > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > You just use anti-sieze on the threads, which ameliorates the corrosion problem. > > On 8/22/18, Peter Arakelian wrote: >> Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a >> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers, >> and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but >> one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve. >> Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have >> not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and >> aluminum eating away when in contact. >> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 >> > > > -- > -- > Hoyt > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 213 > ***************************************** From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Aug 23 15:25:13 2018 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 17:25:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench References: <20180817044957.YUXVM.127488.root@cdptpa-web27> Wouldn?t it be interesting to find out who actually made those torque wrenches. Anybody know?? I remember that advertising logo of ?Sears* Best?. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2018 1:31 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Craftsman torque wrench I found the original manual for my Sears Craftsman DigiTork torque wrench, circa 1981. Copy attached for those who might be able to use it, and apologies for wasting the bandwith of everyone else. As we all know, there's no provision for user calibration, and they state it's not possible. They do note three things I'd forgotten over the years: (1) that 25% of full scale is the minimum target for storage of the wrench. I usually go al the way to zero. (2) the wrench should be allowed to recover for four hours or so if the wrench has been left tensioned for more than a few hours. (3) the wrench should be recalibrated every 10,000 cycles in a production environment. At that rate, I have another hundred years or more before mine needs it. On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 12:38 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: My Craftsman torque wrench fell apart. If I recall these things did fall under their life time warranty . I bought a new one. I still have it . One day I will get to it Sujit On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 8:24 AM, John Innis wrote: The only time I have ever needed to calibrate a wrench was because it broke. On my Craftsman that I bought in 1993 the adjustment nut came loose after about 20 years of service, so I reassembled it and re-calibrated. Since I had the set up there I also tested another Craftsman I had of the same vintage and a Snap-ON I bought in 2016. Both of the other two wrenches were within 5 ft-lbs. which I consider to be about as good as you are going to get with this style of wrench. When I was working on airplanes for a living the shop sent torque wrenches out for re-calibration every 12 months. I have no idea if the service that we used ever did any adjustment on them or not. On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 11:49 PM, wrote: That is a great tutorial on how to calibrate a torque wrench,I have to confess that I have two or three and I have never bothered in many, many years of ownership. For those that have done it or had it done how far off are they usually? Greg Lemon TR250 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nogera at hotmail.com Fri Aug 24 09:11:10 2018 From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 15:11:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Valve Springs My factory manual shows three exhaust springs for TR4 & TR4A and two exhaust springs for TR2 & TR3A. The Moss catalog states three springs for the TR2 to TR4A (mid year) and later TR4As having only two. Who is right? Thanks Bob Bob Nogueira From cregg.cowan at sri.com Fri Aug 24 10:52:46 2018 From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 16:52:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphest is coming Sept 27-30 Triumphest is a wonderful gathering of the Triumph community, entailing a packed weekend of activities including Autocross, Funkhana, Driving Tours, Fun Rally, etc. This year's event is Sept 27-30 in Sacramento, California ("Gold Country"); we're adding a Costume Party on Friday night along with a celebration of the 60th birthday of the Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club (the host club). A few rooms are still available at the discounted event rate. See http://www.triumphest2018.org/ for more information and to register online (mail-in registration is also available). We hope to see many of you in Sacramento! Cregg Cowan Triumphest 2018 Chairman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smime.p7s Type: application/pkcs7-signature Size: 5128 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 24 12:34:02 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:34:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Springs References: What factory manual is that? IIRC the change was not exactly at a model change at all; but was close to the time that the exhaust stems got smaller. The cylinder head also changed, and IIRC the spring perch insert was deleted. Not certain offhand but I kind of think the retainer (on top of the spring) changed as well. Early cars had the 3 springs, and the thick exhaust stems. There might have been some very early TR2 with only two springs, but its not mentioned in the SPC that I have handy (hence my question about which manual). That said, many vendors (including Moss) sell a 2 spring set that is designed to be used with the early configuration. But its not the same as the factory 2 spring set and doesn't fit the later cars. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 14:34:47 2018 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 13:34:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] contact information Hi Andy, just looked at your art with Dutch Treat I am trying to find pictures of Heidi?s TR3B with the cockpit wind deflectors?I have the deflectors, but I have lost the directions. I know Helena has moved in with Heidi ? or that was the last contact I had. Any help appreciated. Bill Pugh Casper ? 1957 TR3 209-210-8019 anabil007 at comcast.net Life is too short to drive Boring Cars -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumph.driver at gmail.com Sun Aug 26 22:13:15 2018 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 00:13:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams Happy birthday, Jonmac! Cheers, Chuck White -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 26 22:53:02 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 23:53:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams References: <000001d43dbc$47a727b0$d6f57710$@gmail.com> Happy Birthday and thank you for all the gifts of knowledge and experience over the years. Best wishes always. Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 26, 2018, at 11:13 PM, Chuck White wrote: Happy birthday, Jonmac! Cheers, Chuck White ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Aug 27 05:34:56 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 07:34:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams References: <000001d43dbc$47a727b0$d6f57710$@gmail.com> Indeed. And may there be many more. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Chuck White To: Jonmac Cc: triumphs Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2018 11:19 pm Subject: [TR] Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams Happy birthday, Jonmac! Cheers, Chuck White ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Mon Aug 27 11:46:42 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 17:46:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] red light, huh? Part 3 :-) Ok, after listening to Randall I rewired up the alternator into the system. The three connections under the hood are still clean ? But now I have wired the ?L? into the standalone connection to the ignition light. And the ?IG? to the switch side of the ignition switch. And the output, via a 30amp fuse for protection, to the ?main? power feed. Hmmm, looks good, * No red light anymore when battery connected ? good * No red light when key on ? not good * When running ? ammeter showing -ve. ? Not good ( Wires have been switched for polarity. ) Attached is the original, generator based wiring and the what is now in the car ( the yellow and yellow/green from the alternator will need to be switched to be colour consistent but can deal with that after ) What did I screw up? David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: originalwiring.png Type: image/png Size: 83058 bytes Desc: originalwiring.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wiring.png Type: image/png Size: 98468 bytes Desc: wiring.png URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Aug 27 14:34:03 2018 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:34:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Analysis paralysis !! I should know this, but what effect does shortening the rear suspension shackle have (TR3): effectively raising or lowering the body on that side? I would have thought that a shorter shackle would raise the wheels relative to the frame, so the effect would be to lower the body - but then I can talk myself around to believing a shorter shackle would raise the body ! Can someone set me straight? Thanks! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan rebuilt overdrive working well - life is good -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 27 18:07:57 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 19:07:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Analysis paralysis !! References: <000901d43e45$4bd43150$e37c93f0$@uprichard.net> The wheels are going to stay where they are, shorter shackles with bring the frame/body up. Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Monday, August 27, 2018 3:34 PM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] Analysis paralysis !! I should know this, but what effect does shortening the rear suspension shackle have (TR3): effectively raising or lowering the body on that side? I would have thought that a shorter shackle would raise the wheels relative to the frame, so the effect would be to lower the body - but then I can talk myself around to believing a shorter shackle would raise the body ! Can someone set me straight? Thanks! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan rebuilt overdrive working well - life is good -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon Aug 27 18:36:42 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 19:36:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 carpet underlayment kit for TR6 (74) We have a moss carpet underlayment/insulation kit. Lots of pieces, some don't seem right. Didn't come with a map. Anyone have a map for this? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From PeterAra at msn.com Mon Aug 27 21:54:00 2018 From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 03:54:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] aluminum radiator - part 2 Well, I got the aluminum radiator from Ron Davis Racing - it looks beautiful! however, he is recommending a 16-19 pound cap. Early TR6 uses 7 pound cap, later uses 14 pound cap. Anyone know why I should use a heavier than stock? I have not talked to Ron yet, looking for a little background knowledge. also anyone concerned about electrolysis? Thanks... Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Aug 28 05:24:05 2018 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 07:24:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] aluminum radiator - part 2 References: Typically a higher pressure allows for a higher temp before boil over. Not a problem, if all the other components in the system can handle it which most modern parts can. I've been using a 16 lb cap for years in my 40 Ford with an aluminum radiator for many years without a problem. > On August 27, 2018 at 11:54 PM Peter Arakelian wrote: > > Well, I got the aluminum radiator from Ron Davis Racing - it looks beautiful! however, he is recommending a 16-19 pound cap. Early TR6 uses 7 pound cap, later uses 14 pound cap. Anyone know why I should use a heavier than stock? I have not talked to Ron yet, looking for a little background knowledge. > also anyone concerned about electrolysis? > Thanks... > Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 06:04:27 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 08:04:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] aluminum radiator - part 2 References: Electrolysis is always a concern; that's why you keep your anti-freeze up to date and stronger concentration than required for SoCA weather. It contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion (among other things). It's those chemicals that wear out over time. Higher pressure both raises the boiling point of the coolant; and improves cooling efficiency. But it also increases the stress on various components, like hoses and the heater core. When I bumped my TR3 up to 10 psi (4 psi is stock), I started blowing hoses on a fairly regular basis. It's wort noting that the actual pressure at various points in the system may be quite a bit higher than the cap rating, as the water pump develops quite a bit of dynamic pressure (aka head) to force the coolant to move around the system. I eventually dropped back to 7 psi, and found a better top hose (intended for big trucks) from Gates. Haven't blown one of them yet. Unless you are having cooling problems, I would stick with the stock pressure. But with a nice fresh radiator, I'd say cooling problems indicate something else wrong. (In my case, it turned out the radiator itself was the problem.) -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 06:39:39 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 05:39:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] aluminum radiator - part 2 References: On 8/27/18 8:54 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote: > > also anyone concerned about electrolysis? I use a zinc anode plug and a good engine to chassis ground connection. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Aug 28 08:18:03 2018 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 08:18:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Email issues Making some progress with the gmail rejection problem.? Don't worry about understanding the details of these log entries. Suffice it to say the first one shows mail to a gmail address bounced, the second shows it was successfully sent to that same address. Aug 28 07:42:48 autox postfix/smtp[31923]: 5304A2588DE1: to=, relay=alt1.gmail-smtp-in.l.google.com[209.85.200.27]:25, delay=92841, delays=92767/48/26/0.37, dsn=4.7.1, status=SOFTBOUNCE (host alt1.gmail-smtp-in.l.google.com[209.85.200.27] said: 550-5.7.1 Unauthenticated email from cs.com is not accepted due to domain's 550-5.7.1 DMARC policy. Please contact the administrator of cs.com domain if 550-5.7.1 this was a legitimate mail. Please visit 550-5.7.1? https://support.google.com/mail/answer/2451690 to learn about the 550 5.7.1 DMARC initiative. a1-v6si812694ion.111 - gsmtp (in reply to end of DATA command)) Aug 28 08:03:45 autox postfix/smtp[393]: 1BA6C2589610: to=, relay=gmail-smtp-in.l.google.com[74.125.195.27]:25, delay=36, delays=5.1/0/30/0.63, dsn=2.0.0, status=sent (250 2.0.0 OK 1535465025 l1-v6si902772plt.399 - gsmtp) From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 10:40:32 2018 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 12:40:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse I hope I don't regret this..... I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. Here's the rub. He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. Any suggestions on the best course of action here? Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 10:52:16 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 09:52:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Emission stuff help for a 71 Triumph Stag References: Does anyone have a photo (of their car) of an early Mk1 showing the two canisters? I only seem to have one canister and that is attached to the strut tower ( strut tower where windshield waster bottle sits. If the other canister sits on the other strut tower, I don't see any holes for a bracket. I have two Mk1 1st sanctioned Stags. May '71 LE 2305 lbw Feb '71 LE1207 u Sujit On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 7:57 PM wrote: > Sujit, > > Most ?Early? stags had two canisters. Second Sanction aka Mark I between > LE10,000 on had a single canister. > > > > The layout is in the early Graphics and early Stag ROM > > > > Cheers! > > > > Glenn Merrell > > +1 (303) 817-8559 mobile > > aka StagByTriumph Garage (*now on FaceBook*) > > Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in > the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of > manure!? > > > > > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Sujit > Roy > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 07, 2018 12:06 PM > *To:* Triumphs > *Subject:* [TR] Emission stuff help for a 71 Triumph Stag > > > > For those of you how have a '71 Stag, can you please help me answer the > following two questions: > > > > On your '71 Stag. Do you have two 2 top port carbon canisters or do you > have one 3 top port canister? If you have a 3 are the ports horizontal or > vertical ? > > > > My May '71 has 1 three port canister > > > > > > Also, does your '71 have float vent valves in the carbs? > > > > > > Sujit > > > > > -- > > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Tue Aug 28 10:59:00 2018 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 16:59:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Smiths volt meter Putting out feelers, anyone have a 2" Smiths Volt meter to sell? Like this? Shipping to Ontario Canada. [cid:image003.jpg at 01D43ECE.E2FA5A30] Regards David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4037 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 12:54:45 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 12:54:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: Chris, My experience has been that a title search will be needed in both states (where it was sold and where it?s being retitled), a VIN verification by the State Patrol, and filling out a lot of archaic forms. I?ve been looking at the retitling a car daunted by the hassle for the past couple years (it?s a race car I want to be able to drive on the streets) and have yet to bring myself to tackling it. Once upon a time you could get a title from Alabama and convert it to a title in your home state but that loophole may have closed. Anyone know if that?s still a possibility? Bud > On Aug 28, 2018, at 10:40 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > > I hope I don't regret this..... > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. > > Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > Here's the rub. > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. > > Any suggestions on the best course of action here? > > Thanks > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Aug 28 13:45:49 2018 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 15:45:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: The cars are in Georgia - correct? I hope somebody in Georgia can help you out - As you probably already know, getting an NC title for an older car from another state is not a simple process, even if you have the clear title from another state. You are probably going to need a Georgia resident to get a Georgia title and then transfer that to you. Georgia does not require titles for older cars - I think made before 1985, so unless the seller verifies otherwise, the cars may never have been titled in Georgia. Georgia residents can get titles for old cars, but they can be registered in Georgia without one. I?ve purchased 3 Triumphs in Georgia - in 2 cases the owner had them titled in Georgia - in the other case, when the owner didn?t, I ended up parting it out. Good Luck Jack Mc Sent from my iPad > On Aug 28, 2018, at 12:40 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > > I hope I don't regret this..... > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. > > Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > Here's the rub. > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. > > Any suggestions on the best course of action here? > > Thanks > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 28 14:29:45 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 15:29:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: Start with the DMV, they can instruct you. Good news is it sounds like you will have plenty of time to go through the process, will probably involve an on site inspection by your local constabulary. BTDT, Bill B Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 28, 2018, at 11:40 AM, Chris Simo wrote: I hope I don't regret this..... I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. Here's the rub. He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. Any suggestions on the best course of action here? Thanks ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 14:41:48 2018 From: johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com (JOHN BARRON) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 20:41:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Title References: <794286957.4138126.1535488908308.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Have someone in a state that will register vehicles with a bill of sale, register the car and get a title, then gift it to you. In Oklahoma you can do a title 42(abandon vehicle) and get a title so you might check if your state does that.?? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 15:40:26 2018 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 17:40:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires Just bought (another) 1976 Spitfire, and the tires I had before aren't available any more. Anyone recently bought some 13 inch tires they could recommend? -- Jeff From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Aug 28 15:53:16 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 17:53:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: Hi, Chris. I believe States differ on their approach. I had something similar in NH with a car that had sat from 1975 to 2004 in someone's shed. All paper work was gone. I got a bill of sale from the estate and that was good enough for a car of that vintage, for the DMV to issue a license in New Hampshire. I seem to remember stories from others about how it's not that easy in some other States. My only experience with North Carolina was when I bought my 2002 Tacoma there a few years back (wanted the old vintage Tacoma but not one that had been driven in New England winters). By coincidence the seller's wife ran the local DMV office. Apparently North Carolina contracts those offices out, at least to some extent. Otherwise, not much help from me on that account. Does anyone know whether an automatic VIN check is made against any stolen car database when a license like this is being applied for? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire > On August 28, 2018 at 12:40 PM Chris Simo wrote: > > I hope I don't regret this..... > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. > > Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > Here's the rub. > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. > > Any suggestions on the best course of action here? > > Thanks > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Tue Aug 28 16:24:25 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 18:24:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 3386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From erkanhassan at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 16:43:14 2018 From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 18:43:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR 3a deal Hey Chris, I don?t have a lot of experience in this but my brother does. Assuming you are going to fix the cars, drive them and want the title in your name. As well as the cars are currently without a title and not in the sellers name. He suggests you look into the necessary process to obtain a ?Mechanics Lien?to the vehicles specific to N Carolina. If this fits your circumstances, it might be the way to get a title in your name. Apparently, a conscious effort to find the title owner is part of this, so it may take a while. Erkan Sent from my iPad From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Aug 28 17:55:31 2018 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 19:55:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: The Alabama title companies will NOT deal with cars needing a North Carolina title Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 28, 2018, at 2:54 PM, levilevi wrote: > > Chris, > > My experience has been that a title search will be needed in both states (where it was sold and where it?s being retitled), a VIN verification by the State Patrol, and filling out a lot of archaic forms. I?ve been looking at the retitling a car daunted by the hassle for the past couple years (it?s a race car I want to be able to drive on the streets) and have yet to bring myself to tackling it. Once upon a time you could get a title from Alabama and convert it to a title in your home state but that loophole may have closed. Anyone know if that?s still a possibility? > > Bud > > >> On Aug 28, 2018, at 10:40 AM, Chris Simo wrote: >> >> I hope I don't regret this..... >> >> I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. >> >> One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. >> >> The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... >> >> Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. >> >> Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. >> >> I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. >> >> Here's the rub. >> >> He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... >> >> Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. >> >> Any suggestions on the best course of action here? >> >> Thanks >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 28 18:10:37 2018 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 19:10:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse Alabama will give you a license plate if the car is 25 years old and you bring them the car.? ?They will not give you a title so it's really not much help.? -------- Original message --------From: levilevi Date: 8/28/18 1:54 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Chris Simo Cc: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse Chris, My experience has been that a title search will be needed in both states (where it was sold and where it?s being retitled), a VIN verification by the State Patrol, and filling out a lot of archaic forms. I?ve been looking at the retitling a car daunted by the hassle for the past couple years (it?s a race car I want to be able to drive on the streets) and have yet to bring myself to tackling it. Once upon a time you could get a title from Alabama and convert it to a title in your home state but that loophole may have closed. Anyone know if that?s still a possibility? Bud > On Aug 28, 2018, at 10:40 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > > I hope I don't regret this..... > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish.? They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes.? Frame was restored but that is it.? no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another.....? Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car.? Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. > > Based on the condition of the cars,? I doubt very seriously if they were stolen,?? but one never knows. > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars,? I think I have seen worse and recovered.....??? If they are beyond repair upon receipt,? the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > Here's the rub. > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name.? I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out.? he was able to find a bill of sale for one,? but titles tend to override those... > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers? or is there a more involved process?? I'm in north Carolina. > > Any suggestions on? the best course of action here??? > > Thanks > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 18:11:48 2018 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 20:11:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: <5b85e480.1c69fb81.6b2bf.9885SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> learning alot today. thanks On Tue, Aug 28, 2018, 8:10 PM dave wrote: > Alabama will give you a license plate if the car is 25 years old and you > bring them the car. They will not give you a title so it's really not > much help. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: levilevi > Date: 8/28/18 1:54 PM (GMT-06:00) > To: Chris Simo > Cc: list Triumph > Subject: Re: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse > > Chris, > > My experience has been that a title search will be needed in both states > (where it was sold and where it?s being retitled), a VIN verification by > the State Patrol, and filling out a lot of archaic forms. I?ve been looking > at the retitling a car daunted by the hassle for the past couple years > (it?s a race car I want to be able to drive on the streets) and have yet to > bring myself to tackling it. Once upon a time you could get a title from > Alabama and convert it to a title in your home state but that loophole may > have closed. Anyone know if that?s still a possibility? > > Bud > > > > On Aug 28, 2018, at 10:40 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > > > > I hope I don't regret this..... > > > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels > he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating > including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but > that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car > and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans > and sills come with it. > > > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. > Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a > road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased > to restore one of them. > > > > Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were > stolen, but one never knows. > > > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think > I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon > receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > > > Here's the rub. > > > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. > I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a > bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... > > > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a > more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. > > > > Any suggestions on the best course of action here? > > > > Thanks > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Aug 28 19:12:37 2018 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 21:12:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: I?m pretty sure Chris knows this already: In North Carolina, to get a title for an older car that isn?t already titled in the state of NC, it will have to be inspected by a gun and badge toting state officer - even if you have a good clear out of state title in hand. I just took a look at the Broadway Title web site and they no longer specifically exclude North Carolina from their services - it now says any state - so maybe that is now a viable option. In any case, based my experience here in sunny NC, getting a title in some other state before attempting to get an NC title is going to be the least painful option - and may be the only feasible avenue. Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad > On Aug 28, 2018, at 4:29 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > > Start with the DMV, they can instruct you. Good news is it sounds like you will have plenty of time to go through the process, will probably involve an on site inspection by your local constabulary. > BTDT, > Bill B > > Sent from my Handspring Treo > > On Aug 28, 2018, at 11:40 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > > I hope I don't regret this..... > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it. > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. > > Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were stolen, but one never knows. > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > Here's the rub. > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more involved process? I'm in north Carolina. > > Any suggestions on the best course of action here? > > Thanks > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Aug 28 21:44:37 2018 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 20:44:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires References: I put 175/70R13 on my GT6 a while ago.? A quick search show they are no longer a common size and selection is limited, but there are options available. Brian On 8/28/2018 2:40 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Just bought (another) 1976 Spitfire, and the tires I had before aren't > available any more. Anyone recently bought some 13 inch tires they > could recommend? > > -- Jeff > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 21:51:05 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 23:51:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I could keep the dipstick. The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can pour directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and trying to keep it clean. Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be hard to add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big rubber plug to fit it. -- Randall On 28 August 2018 18:24:25 GMT-04:00, Dave Connitt wrote: > > >Hi All, > >I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky >enough >to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, >Pa. >myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great >time >and the car was problem free. > >My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off >your >transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is >no >different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer >trips >and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the >transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel >right >now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my >second >question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to >lift >the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, >then >unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the >road > So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket >(6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil >can >with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover >to >plug the hole. > >What have you guys done? > >Thanks, > >Dave Connitt > >?67 TR4A IRS > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Aug 29 00:30:54 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 2:30:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse I bought my TR250 without a title, I restored it then got it titled. While I would be leary of buying a car without a title again,I would certainly consider it if the deal was good enough. However, I would never restore one first and then see if I could get it titled Seller said he could get a title for it, then flaked out. I restored the car and took the bill of sale to get it titled, the local DMV hemmed and hawed and ultimately said I would have to go to the state DMV to get a bonded title. Basically bond company guarantees value of the car if rightful owner comes forward. You are still liable, but if car is gone and you are judgement proof they will pay Anyway state DMV does a search on the VIN number, plus you have to send a letter to last owner of record, if any asking them to say they no longer own the car, my certified letter came back undeliverable, that was good enough for DMV, but they came up with another of it being registered in Alabama, which was enough for them to refuse to give me even a bonded title (as an aside I think the Alabama registration was an attempt by the seller to start the process of getting it titled, this was a few years back) Anyway a very nice lady from the Alabama DMV said they would not title a car so old and put that in an email to me. I got the bond and with the returned certified letter and email from Alabama DMV they let me title the car. The bond cost a couple hundred bucks, I think I valued the car a little low even for the time at $12,000 or something in the low teens, after a few years if nobody comes forward you get a regular title issued, buy you have to initiate it. Have fun! There may be better ways than bonded, but bonded does work, I believe it is available in most states. Greg Lemon TR250 ---- Chris Simo wrote: > I hope I don't regret this..... > > I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he > will never finish. They come with the parts he had been accumulating > including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc. > > One is completely disassembled and in boxes. Frame was restored but that > is it. no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and > rear half from another..... Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and > sills come with it. > > The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car. > Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... > > Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road > trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to > restore one of them. > > Based on the condition of the cars, I doubt very seriously if they were > stolen, but one never knows. > > I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars, I think I > have seen worse and recovered..... If they are beyond repair upon > receipt, the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. > > Here's the rub. > > He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name. > I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out. he was able to find a > bill of sale for one, but titles tend to override those... > > Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers or is there a more > involved process? I'm in north Carolina. > > Any suggestions on the best course of action here? > > Thanks From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 29 00:14:15 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 08:14:15 +0200 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> Dave, Don?t have that problem With a TR3, lots of access holes in the tranny cover. I would suggest buying a TR3 floor plug and drill a hole to fit. Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 29, 2018, at 12:24 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk Wed Aug 29 04:20:16 2018 From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 11:20:16 +0100 Subject: [TR] Smiths volt meter References: Paste this number into eBay 222868235870 There are plenty for sale in the UK, both new and used. Jonmac From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: 28 August 2018 17:59 To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: [TR] Smiths volt meter Putting out feelers, anyone have a 2" Smiths Volt meter to sell? Like this? Shipping to Ontario Canada. Regards David --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4037 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 29 05:47:56 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 07:47:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> I did just that. I have a thermoplastic cover (I bought from Roadster Factory in 1990 and still serves me well) which makes modifications easy. I cut a hole sized for a floor jacking hole plug and I converted to a hex head transmission plug. I still have to pull back the carpet and under felt but after that, Bob's you uncle. It is not a lot different than the plug for the filler/dipstick on the TR3. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt To: 'Triumphs' Sent: Tue, Aug 28, 2018 10:23 pm Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 3386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 07:16:56 2018 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 09:16:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 part needs Anyone have a good used TR6 engine front harmonic balancer available? Jim Henningsen Ocala FL Sent from my iPhone From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 29 08:36:00 2018 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 10:36:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 wheels with old tires Hello, Looking to free up some space. I have 3 72 TR6 steel rims with old rubber free for pickup. If not, they will be recycled. Contact me here off list if you want them. They are quite rusty, but I did get 1 blasted and powder coated for a spare. Came out nice. The 72 has super lites and I will never need these wheels. Thanks, Bob From davgil at aol.com Wed Aug 29 08:38:55 2018 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 10:38:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Titles I don't know about other jurisdictions, but Georgia does not require titles for older vehicles. However, there is a process for obtaining a title bond should you have a concern or wish to obtain a title without proper documentation. It may be available in your state as well. Here is the information on the Georgia process. Other states, if they have this option, are probably similar. https://dor.georgia.gov/bonded-vehicle-title -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 29 09:05:54 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 15:05:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee.k.janssen at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 09:15:19 2018 From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 09:15:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] body parts value I'm selling off my Triumph assets and was wondering what are usable front fenders and hoods are worth? Thanks in advance Lee -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Wed Aug 29 09:19:44 2018 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 15:19:44 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse In California, ?my son heard about a 1963 Austin Healey Sprite that?was abandon in a parking lot, and it's in decent shape with good interior and a new cloth top. ? Planning to lay claim to it as an abandon vehicle, I brought this up at one of my Triumph Club meetings, and one member told me about a company here in the San Jose area called Auto Registrar,?listed as a Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency. ?For about $120 they came to my garage and inspected the vehicle for the VIN #, then ran a historical search which was a national wide search. ?Very interestingly there is no record of this car ever being registered in the US, so our best guess it it came from Canada. ?This company?processed the paper work and the DMV sent my?son a?title for?the car. ?You may have a similar agency in your state. Over the past year my son has gone through everything, engine is solid with good compression and it's been upgraded to?1275 too. ?It should be ready for the road in a few more weeks. Rye PH: 530-FIND-RYE On Aug 28, 2018, at 08:00 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: Hi, Chris.? I believe States differ on their approach.? I had something similar in NH with a car that had sat from 1975 to 2004 in someone's shed.? All paper work was gone.? I got a bill of sale from the estate and that was good enough for a car of that vintage, for the DMV to issue a license in New Hampshire.? I seem to remember stories from others about how it's not that easy in some other States.? My only experience with North Carolina was when I bought my 2002 Tacoma there a few years back (wanted the old vintage Tacoma but not one that had been driven in New England winters).? By coincidence the seller's wife ran the local DMV office.? Apparently North Carolina contracts those offices out, at least to some extent.? Otherwise, not much help from me on that account. Does anyone know whether an automatic VIN check is made against any stolen car database when a license like this is being applied for? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire On August 28, 2018 at 12:40 PM Chris Simo wrote: I hope I don't regret this..... I was put in contact with a gentleman with 2 TR3a projects that he feels he will never finish.? They come with the parts he had been accumulating including an OD and various tools, hoists, etc.? One is completely disassembled and in boxes.? Frame was restored but that is it.? no floors and body is in two pieces front half from one car and rear half from another.....? Paint is ratty and tatty. new floor pans and sills come with it.? The other is still on frame but fenders and doors are inside the car.? Paint ratty and tatty as well -- dont' know about the chrome.... Cars are out of state and my triumph club friends are going to make a road trip with me to retrieve the cars and the parts that he had purchased to restore one of them. Based on the condition of the cars,? I doubt very seriously if they were stolen,? ?but one never knows.? I'm not super worried about the physical condition of the cars,? I think I have seen worse and recovered.....? ? If they are beyond repair upon receipt,? the parts, OD, and body panels cover what I'm paying. Here's the rub. He no longer has the titles for the cars and they were not in his name.? I'd like to make these runners vs parting them out.? he was able to find a bill of sale for one,? but titles tend to override those... Do I simply call the DMV and ask to run the VIN numbers? or is there a more involved process?? I'm in north Carolina. Any suggestions on? the best course of action here?? ? Thanks ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Wed Aug 29 09:31:37 2018 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 15:31:37 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires For the same Austin Healey Sprite I mentioned in the other topic about?registration, my son?has 13" tires on the car. ?He bought Toto Proxes R888R. ?He also considered going with?Hankook Optima. Rye On Aug 28, 2018, at 07:25 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: Just bought (another) 1976 Spitfire, and the tires I had before aren't available any more. Anyone recently bought some 13 inch tires they could recommend? -- Jeff ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Wed Aug 29 09:38:47 2018 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 08:38:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires References: Just went to Amazon - there are dozens of 13 inch tires on the market. No shortage of them. Several MFG's (Achilles and Maxxis) make tires that are vintage looking. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2018 2:40 PM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires Just bought (another) 1976 Spitfire, and the tires I had before aren't available any more. Anyone recently bought some 13 inch tires they could recommend? -- Jeff ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr at cox.net From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 10:16:35 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 10:16:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires References: Jeff, If you?re just doing street driving Walmart has 13 inch tires for $60-70 each. Bud > On Aug 28, 2018, at 3:40 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > Just bought (another) 1976 Spitfire, and the tires I had before aren't > available any more. Anyone recently bought some 13 inch tires they > could recommend? > > -- Jeff > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 10:45:46 2018 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 11:45:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> The Le Mans TR3S and TRS cars did this into the 1960s, long after it had stopped in production. We almost did the dipstick top cover mod when we upgraded my TR3B to OD. Can?t remember now why we didn?t.... On Tuesday, August 28, 2018, Randall wrote: > FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I > converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I could keep > the dipstick. > > The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can pour > directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and trying to > keep it clean. > > Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be hard to > add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big rubber plug to fit it. > > -- Randall > > On 28 August 2018 18:24:25 GMT-04:00, Dave Connitt > wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky >> enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in >> Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had >> a great time and the car was problem free. >> >> My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off >> your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is >> no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer >> trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the >> transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right >> now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second >> question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift >> the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then >> unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the >> road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket >> (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can >> with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to >> plug the hole. >> >> What have you guys done? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dave Connitt >> >> ?67 TR4A IRS >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hoytduff at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 11:39:32 2018 From: hoytduff at gmail.com (Hoyt Duff) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 13:39:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR3a deal that I could not refuse References: <20180829054633.44D202580A7D@autox.team.net> I doubt you will regret the purchase. The cars seem to be worth more parted out. If you do that, then you can use the money to buy one with a title. -- Hoyt From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 14:46:01 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 16:46:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Washer Bottle Strap Hey all ~ I've got a pretty small, non-technical issue I'm hoping someone else has already figured out: Some years back, I put a new square washer bottle, bracket and strap on my '74 TR6. I notice that the strap (which looks like an oversized rubber band, looks like it's about to give way. Before that happens, I'd like to replace it: Not the bracket to which it's attached, just the band. It seems that Moss sells the bracket and strap as an "assembly" (P/N 546-140 @ $51.99) as does TRF (P/N 518265 @ $34.94). It seems obvious the brackets don't wear out but the rubber retaining strap does. They don't seem to sell the strap apart from the bracket but I'd prefer to find a strap (no, not a bungee cord) at a considerably lower cost than the assembly pricing. Anyone BTDT? Thanks in advance for any responses... Dave Friedlander '74 TR6 '59 TR3a in process -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Aug 29 15:43:51 2018 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 17:43:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 wheels with old tires References: Approximately where are they? Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 29, 2018, at 10:36 AM, Bob Labuz wrote: > > Hello, > > Looking to free up some space. I have 3 72 TR6 steel rims with old rubber free for pickup. If not, they will be recycled. > > Contact me here off list if you want them. They are quite rusty, but I did get 1 blasted and powder coated for a spare. Came out nice. > > The 72 has super lites and I will never need these wheels. > > Thanks, > > Bob > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Aug 29 16:19:26 2018 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 22:19:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> Dave- Here is a picture of the plug I have on the side for fill ups- same reason it is a lot easier to top up inside. I?ve used smaller plugs before which can work but this floor plug does just fine for sealing and access. Randy [image1.jpeg] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 77171 bytes Desc: image1.jpeg URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Aug 29 16:51:30 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 18:51:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fell into a TR 3a deal References: <26042106-B726-41B9-BA14-06354AA5FEFC@yahoo.com> Be careful as some states only keep car title records for a certain number of years and then they dispose of them.. Kentucky is one for example. Dave Connitt -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Erkan Hassan Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2018 6:43 PM To: ccsimonsen at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Fell into a TR 3a deal Hey Chris, I don?t have a lot of experience in this but my brother does. Assuming you are going to fix the cars, drive them and want the title in your name. As well as the cars are currently without a title and not in the sellers name. He suggests you look into the necessary process to obtain a ?Mechanics Lien?to the vehicles specific to N Carolina. If this fits your circumstances, it might be the way to get a title in your name. Apparently, a conscious effort to find the title owner is part of this, so it may take a while. Erkan Sent from my iPad ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 17:00:29 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 19:00:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: Marty; See http://www.74tr6.com/siliconegasket.htm Dave On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 6:25 PM marty wrote: > > > Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? > Wish he was still making those. > > Marty > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Aug 29 17:02:45 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 19:02:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: I almost took Justin up on his offer to buy his ops! ...bummer...can't remember the company that did.... saw their website.... still the same product.... (I know it will come to me AFTER I send this email....? iirc) ptegler On 8/29/2018 11:05 AM, marty wrote: > > > Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the > gaskets? Wish he was still making those. > > Marty > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Aug 29 17:13:25 2018 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 19:13:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] body parts value References: Vehicle? On Aug 29, 2018, 6:55 PM, at 6:55 PM, Lee Janssen wrote: >I'm selling off my Triumph assets and was wondering what are usable >front >fenders and hoods are worth? >Thanks in advance >Lee > > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee.k.janssen at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 17:42:11 2018 From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 17:42:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 body parts value Sorry for the brain fart: I'm selling off my Triumph TR6 assets and was wondering what are usable front fenders and hoods are worth? Thanks in advance -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 18:29:13 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:29:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 body parts value References: Lee; So, what condition are the parts in? Rust free? Dent free? eBay has TR6 fenders in various conditions with a fairly wide range of pricing. Check it out and compare.... Then, there's the shipping cost... Dave On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:54 PM Lee Janssen wrote: > Sorry for the brain fart: > I'm selling off my Triumph TR6 assets and was wondering what are usable > front fenders and hoods are worth? > Thanks in advance > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 18:40:28 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:40:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] [NET] TR6 Washer Bottle Strap References: <937C6F5A-749D-4565-82E6-FB97C34725F3@yahoo.com> <35F3DDB6-3B47-4152-9738-36B5B9138737@verizon.net> Thanks to all who responded! Some good ideas out there!! Dave On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:33 PM TRuss wrote: > Coincidentally I was just faced with the same issue. I filled the bottle > in preparation for my MA inspection, just in case I needed to demo the > awesome power of my vintage sprayers. The humongous zip tie is just the > ticket. (Can?t believe I had one on hand, 36?). White like the bottle and > can leave it just loose enough to slide the bottle out if necessary. Thank > you John for the solution! > > Tim Russell. > > This email has been Sent from my iPhone. > > On Aug 29, 2018, at 5:07 PM, John Gibbs via NET < > net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote: > > Hi Dave, > I used a big wire tie and put it just under the rubber band so it's not > that notable. Works great bottle don't move at all. You could also check at > a craft store and see if they sell long double sided velcro strip for > another alternative. > Good luck and keep us posted > John > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 29, 2018, at 4:46 PM, David Friedlander via NET < > net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote: > > Hey all ~ > > I've got a pretty small, non-technical issue I'm hoping someone else has > already figured > out: > > Some years back, I put a new square washer bottle, bracket and strap on my > '74 TR6. > I notice that the strap (which looks like an oversized rubber band, looks > like it's about > to give way. Before that happens, I'd like to replace it: Not the bracket > to which it's > attached, just the band. It seems that Moss sells the bracket and strap as > an "assembly" > (P/N 546-140 @ $51.99) as does TRF (P/N 518265 @ $34.94). It seems obvious > the > brackets don't wear out but the rubber retaining strap does. They don't > seem to sell > the strap apart from the bracket but I'd prefer to find a strap (no, not a > bungee cord) > at a considerably lower cost than the assembly pricing. Anyone BTDT? > > Thanks in advance for any responses... > > Dave Friedlander > '74 TR6 > '59 TR3a in process > > _______________________________________________ > NET mailing list > NET at newenglandtriumphs.org > http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org > > _______________________________________________ > NET mailing list > NET at newenglandtriumphs.org > http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 19:03:52 2018 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:03:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Smiths volt meter References: <000001d43f81$e4b475f0$ae1d61d0$@ukpips.org.uk> There are also versions without the battery icon, and even some with a long pointer that can be fitted with a domed glass, which better matches the aesthetics of earlier TR gauges. Look for vintage Reliant gauges. BR, Don On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 5:20 AM, John Macartney < john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote: > Paste this number into eBay 222868235870 There are plenty for sale in the > UK, both new and used. > > > > Jonmac > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *David > Templeton > *Sent:* 28 August 2018 17:59 > *To:* 'Triumphs List' > *Subject:* [TR] Smiths volt meter > > > > Putting out feelers, anyone have a 2? Smiths Volt meter to sell? Like > this? Shipping to Ontario Canada. > > > > > > Regards > > David > > > > > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-6042522259257561958_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4037 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rbtr3a at cox.net Wed Aug 29 19:34:21 2018 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 21:34:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: Is anyone? Ronnie > On Aug 29, 2018, at 11:05 AM, marty wrote: > > > > Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. > > Marty > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 29 20:31:52 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 22:31:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: I think he sold the molds off. If you want one for the TR6 Moss has one. https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250/engine-performance/cylinder-head/silicone-valve-cover-gaskets-by-gasket-innovations-14 Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: marty To: Triumph List Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:25 pm Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Aug 29 21:45:51 2018 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 23:45:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> take a look at (forgive me) the MG Midget cover plug for the tranny dipstck big round plug, VERY easy to install in a hole...sits behind the radio over the tunnel ptegler On 8/29/2018 12:45 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > The Le Mans TR3S and TRS cars did this into the 1960s, long after it > had stopped in production. > > We almost did the dipstick top cover mod when we upgraded my TR3B to > OD. Can?t remember now why we didn?t.... > > On Tuesday, August 28, 2018, Randall > FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I > converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I > could keep the dipstick. > > The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can > pour directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and > trying to keep it clean. > > Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be > hard to add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big > rubber plug to fit it. > > -- Randall > > On 28 August 2018 18:24:25 GMT-04:00, Dave Connitt > > Hi All, > > I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was > lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas > Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about > a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was > problem free. > > ?My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to > top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all > leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of > concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal > maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. > I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right > now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me > to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add > transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack > stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the > fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the > road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a > socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then > use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I > can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. > > What have you guys done? > > Thanks, > > Dave Connitt > > ?67 TR4A IRS > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Aug 30 05:27:36 2018 From: tfansher at comcast.net (Thomas Fansher) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 07:27:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: <5d13a62c-a71f-21a2-fb3c-50b9af010592@verizon.net> Joe Alexander and ARE has the silicone gaskets. ( or at least had them). Tom Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 29, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > I almost took Justin up on his offer to buy his ops! > > ...bummer...can't remember the company that did.... saw their website.... still the same product.... > (I know it will come to me AFTER I send this email.... iirc) > > ptegler > > >> On 8/29/2018 11:05 AM, marty wrote: >> >> >> Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. >> >> Marty >> >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Aug 30 05:28:43 2018 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 07:28:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: <16588ac36af-1ebb-243b@webjas-vac195.srv.aolmail.net> Joe Alexander took over the Gasket Innovations business a few years ago but these are not the same gaskets that Justin Wagner sold. Justine?s gaskets were very unique in how they ?wrapped? around the lip/edge on the valve cover. They were truly leak proof and reusable. I?ve had one on my car for over 15 years now and it?s never leaked a drop of oil. As I recall (it?s been a few years since I?ve seen one) the GI gaskets are a much simpler design but work very well. Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2018 6:53 AM To: trmarty at hotmail.com; Triumphs at Autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets I think he sold the molds off.? If you want one for the TR6 Moss has one. https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250/engine-performance/cylinder-head/silicone-valve-cover-gaskets-by-gasket-innovations-14 Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: marty To: Triumph List Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:25 pm Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those.? Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 30 05:29:04 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 07:29:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Washer Bottle Strap References: I'm in the same boat. My car has had the remnants of a bungee cord which I removed recently and I wish to replace it with something more elegant. It has not risen to a priority as yet but I've been thinking of some nylon strapping similar to what you find on backpacks. Some hardware stores carry it in bulk where you can buy it by the foot and the buckles, connectors, whatever they are called are also available. Like I said, it is not yet something I am pursuing but it is on the horizon. Other options will be of interest. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: David Friedlander To: TR3 Triumphs ; New England Triumphs Sent: Thu, Aug 30, 2018 12:44 am Subject: [TR] TR6 Washer Bottle Strap Hey all ~ I've got a pretty small, non-technical issue I'm hoping someone else has already figured out: Some years back, I put a new square washer bottle, bracket and strap on my '74 TR6. I notice that the strap (which looks like an oversized rubber band, looks like it's about to give way. Before that happens, I'd like to replace it: Not the bracket to which it's attached, just the band. It seems that Moss sells the bracket and strap as an "assembly" (P/N 546-140 @ $51.99) as does TRF (P/N 518265 @ $34.94). It seems obvious the brackets don't wear out but the rubber retaining strap does. They don't seem to sell the strap apart from the bracket but I'd prefer to find a strap (no, not a bungee cord) at a considerably lower cost than the assembly pricing. Anyone BTDT? Thanks in advance for any responses... Dave Friedlander '74 TR6 '59 TR3a in process ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 30 05:34:35 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 07:34:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets Moss lists one although it looks to be a little bit different. https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250/engine-performance/cylinder-head/silicone-valve-cover-gaskets-by-gasket-innovations-14 Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Paul Tegler To: marty ; Triumph List Sent: Thu, Aug 30, 2018 3:10 am Subject: Re: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets I almost took Justin up on his offer to buy his ops! ...bummer...can't remember the company that did.... saw their website.... still the same product.... (I know it will come to me AFTER I send this email.... iirc) ptegler On 8/29/2018 11:05 AM, marty wrote: Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 06:01:24 2018 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 08:01:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: <6080F8BD-4C68-43D2-8931-F3585F6E2FCF@cox.net> I believe Moss Morors now sells them. They're made by Gasket Innovations with different versions for stock or alloy valve covers... Dave On Thu, Aug 30, 2018, 6:22 AM wrote: > Is anyone? > > Ronnie > > On Aug 29, 2018, at 11:05 AM, marty wrote: > > > > Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? > Wish he was still making those. > > Marty > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk Thu Aug 30 06:21:15 2018 From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 13:21:15 +0100 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> <5bbe5225-fa3b-9eb0-9931-bb46a283c201@verizon.net> And if my memory serves me correctly (which these days it often doesn?t!) access to that plug and refilling the gearbox was an absolute s*d? That said, my ?59 Frogeye and ?65 Midget didn?t have dipsticks. Yer just poked in yer finger to check if it went into any oil. Jonmac From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Tegler Sent: 30 August 2018 04:46 To: Don Hiscock ; Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions take a look at (forgive me) the MG Midget cover plug for the tranny dipstck big round plug, VERY easy to install in a hole...sits behind the radio over the tunnel ptegler On 8/29/2018 12:45 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: The Le Mans TR3S and TRS cars did this into the 1960s, long after it had stopped in production. We almost did the dipstick top cover mod when we upgraded my TR3B to OD. Can?t remember now why we didn?t.... FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I could keep the dipstick. The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can pour directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and trying to keep it clean. Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be hard to add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big rubber plug to fit it. -- Randall Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithstewart at bell.net Thu Aug 30 07:52:43 2018 From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 09:52:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: Silicone gaskets were made by Gasket Innovations and Alexander Racing Enterprises took over that operation. You can contact them through information at: https://www.gasketinnovations.com/ Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: marty Sent: August 29, 2018 11:06 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 30 08:32:24 2018 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 14:32:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: <5d13a62c-a71f-21a2-fb3c-50b9af010592@verizon.net> <607674C6-D6F9-47AC-8FDC-B9532C5213C2@comcast.net> Here is the web site: Alexander Racing Enterprises | Gasket Innovations | | | | | | | | | | | Alexander Racing Enterprises | Gasket Innovations Parts for Triumph, Austin Healey, Porsche, Volvo, and other classic cars. | | | On Thursday, August 30, 2018, 9:18:44 AM CDT, Thomas Fansher wrote: Joe Alexander and ARE has the silicone gaskets. ( or at least had them).?Tom Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: I almost took Justin up on his offer to buy his ops! ...bummer...can't remember the company that did.... saw their website.... still the same product.... (I know it will come to me AFTER I send this email....? iirc) ptegler On 8/29/2018 11:05 AM, marty wrote: Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those.? Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 08:53:11 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 07:53:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Washer Bottle Strap References: Dave - Perhaps this Jaguar part would be suitable: https://xks.com/i-7082930-jaguar-washer-strap-later-cars-with-plastic-reservoir-16-1078.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fxks.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dwipers%26go%3DSearch 1" x 14?" -- actually pretty cheap considering it is an E-Type part. BTW - XKs Unlimited is now part of Moss but I don't think there in any merchandising or inventory cross-over yet. Geo On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 1:46 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > Hey all ~ > > I've got a pretty small, non-technical issue I'm hoping someone else has > already figured > out: > > Some years back, I put a new square washer bottle, bracket and strap on my > '74 TR6. > I notice that the strap (which looks like an oversized rubber band, looks > like it's about > to give way. Before that happens, I'd like to replace it: Not the bracket > to which it's > attached, just the band. It seems that Moss sells the bracket and strap as > an "assembly" > (P/N 546-140 @ $51.99) as does TRF (P/N 518265 @ $34.94). It seems obvious > the > brackets don't wear out but the rubber retaining strap does. They don't > seem to sell > the strap apart from the bracket but I'd prefer to find a strap (no, not a > bungee cord) > at a considerably lower cost than the assembly pricing. Anyone BTDT? > > Thanks in advance for any responses... > > Dave Friedlander > '74 TR6 > '59 TR3a in process > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 29843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 09:02:29 2018 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 08:02:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> I used the same style plug as above the u-joint: The bigger the hole the less precise you have to be with location. The other opening is for te OD solenoid, has a metal cover in use. Geo On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 3:24 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi All, > > I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough > to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. > myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great > time and the car was problem free. > > My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off > your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is > no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer > trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the > transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right > now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second > question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift > the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then > unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the > road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket > (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can > with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to > plug the hole. > > What have you guys done? > > Thanks, > > Dave Connitt > > ?67 TR4A IRS > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 3386 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Tunnel Holes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 53739 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Aug 30 09:11:57 2018 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 11:11:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: Gasket Innovations Ronnie > On Aug 29, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Paul Tegler wrote: > > I almost took Justin up on his offer to buy his ops! > > ...bummer...can't remember the company that did.... saw their website.... still the same product.... > (I know it will come to me AFTER I send this email.... iirc) > > ptegler > > >> On 8/29/2018 11:05 AM, marty wrote: >> >> >> Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. >> >> Marty >> >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Aug 30 10:02:47 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 10:02:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: <6080F8BD-4C68-43D2-8931-F3585F6E2FCF@cox.net> Is Morty Duntz (sp)? still making custom gaskets? Anyone know? daveP On 8/30/2018 6:01 AM, David Friedlander wrote: > I believe Moss Morors now sells them. They're made by Gasket > Innovations with different versions for stock or alloy valve covers... > > Dave > > wrote: > > Is anyone? > > Ronnie > > On Aug 29, 2018, at 11:05 AM, marty >> >> >> Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the >> gaskets? Wish he was still making those. >> >> Marty >> >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 15:46:09 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 14:46:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does anyone know the diameter of the restriction in part no. 154209 (emission stuff) Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Thu Aug 30 16:16:05 2018 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 22:16:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets References: <5d13a62c-a71f-21a2-fb3c-50b9af010592@verizon.net> https://www.gasketinnovations.com/ Just a guess. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Tegler Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 7:03 PM To: marty ; Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Justin Wagner Gaskets I almost took Justin up on his offer to buy his ops! ...bummer...can't remember the company that did.... saw their website.... still the same product.... (I know it will come to me AFTER I send this email.... iirc) ptegler On 8/29/2018 11:05 AM, marty wrote: Anybody have contact info for Justin Wagner that used to make the gaskets? Wish he was still making those. Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 17:01:11 2018 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 16:01:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] online parts catelogue for TR7 TR8 While surfing looking for some emissions stuff I came across this https://issuu.com/carlos527/docs/manual_de_taller-triumph_tr7_y_tr8 Hope someone can find it useful Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alansalvy at gmail.com Thu Aug 30 04:57:37 2018 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 06:57:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] [NET] TR6 Washer Bottle Strap References: <937C6F5A-749D-4565-82E6-FB97C34725F3@yahoo.com> <35F3DDB6-3B47-4152-9738-36B5B9138737@verizon.net> You could also try a double sided Velcro strap. Al Salvatore On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 5:35 AM David Friedlander wrote: > Thanks to all who responded! Some good ideas out there!! > > Dave > > > > On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:33 PM TRuss wrote: > >> Coincidentally I was just faced with the same issue. I filled the bottle >> in preparation for my MA inspection, just in case I needed to demo the >> awesome power of my vintage sprayers. The humongous zip tie is just the >> ticket. (Can?t believe I had one on hand, 36?). White like the bottle and >> can leave it just loose enough to slide the bottle out if necessary. Thank >> you John for the solution! >> >> Tim Russell. >> >> This email has been Sent from my iPhone. >> >> On Aug 29, 2018, at 5:07 PM, John Gibbs via NET < >> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote: >> >> Hi Dave, >> I used a big wire tie and put it just under the rubber band so it's not >> that notable. Works great bottle don't move at all. You could also check at >> a craft store and see if they sell long double sided velcro strip for >> another alternative. >> Good luck and keep us posted >> John >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Aug 29, 2018, at 4:46 PM, David Friedlander via NET < >> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote: >> >> Hey all ~ >> >> I've got a pretty small, non-technical issue I'm hoping someone else has >> already figured >> out: >> >> Some years back, I put a new square washer bottle, bracket and strap on >> my '74 TR6. >> I notice that the strap (which looks like an oversized rubber band, looks >> like it's about >> to give way. Before that happens, I'd like to replace it: Not the bracket >> to which it's >> attached, just the band. It seems that Moss sells the bracket and strap >> as an "assembly" >> (P/N 546-140 @ $51.99) as does TRF (P/N 518265 @ $34.94). It seems >> obvious the >> brackets don't wear out but the rubber retaining strap does. They don't >> seem to sell >> the strap apart from the bracket but I'd prefer to find a strap (no, not >> a bungee cord) >> at a considerably lower cost than the assembly pricing. Anyone BTDT? >> >> Thanks in advance for any responses... >> >> Dave Friedlander >> '74 TR6 >> '59 TR3a in process >> >> _______________________________________________ >> NET mailing list >> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org >> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org >> >> _______________________________________________ >> NET mailing list >> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org >> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org >> >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Thu Aug 30 14:25:51 2018 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 20:25:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> <5bbe5225-fa3b-9eb0-9931-bb46a283c201@verizon.net>, <001201d4405b$f30946a0$d91bd3e0$@ukpips.org.uk> Just me, but I won?t be making this mod because I don?t trust myself to not spill gear oil on the carpets. You can?t clean that stink out. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of John Macartney Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2018 6:21:15 AM To: ptegler at verizon.net; 'Don Hiscock'; 'Randall' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions And if my memory serves me correctly (which these days it often doesn?t!) access to that plug and refilling the gearbox was an absolute s*d? That said, my ?59 Frogeye and ?65 Midget didn?t have dipsticks. Yer just poked in yer finger to check if it went into any oil. Jonmac From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Tegler Sent: 30 August 2018 04:46 To: Don Hiscock ; Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions take a look at (forgive me) the MG Midget cover plug for the tranny dipstck big round plug, VERY easy to install in a hole...sits behind the radio over the tunnel ptegler On 8/29/2018 12:45 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: The Le Mans TR3S and TRS cars did this into the 1960s, long after it had stopped in production. We almost did the dipstick top cover mod when we upgraded my TR3B to OD. Can?t remember now why we didn?t.... FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I could keep the dipstick. The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can pour directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and trying to keep it clean. Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be hard to add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big rubber plug to fit it. -- Randall Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 31 05:07:18 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 07:07:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Wedge] online parts catelogue for TR7 TR8 References: Cool. Thanks. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs ; tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu List Sent: Thu, Aug 30, 2018 6:01 pm Subject: [Wedge] online parts catelogue for TR7 TR8 While surfing looking for some emissions stuff I came across this https://issuu.com/carlos527/docs/manual_de_taller-triumph_tr7_y_tr8 Hope someone can find it useful Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -- Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From longroadhomefarm at gmail.com Fri Aug 31 06:05:59 2018 From: longroadhomefarm at gmail.com (James E. Long) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 07:05:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Washer bottle strap. Dave, I used a military issue belt stretch trouser belt. I used a black/Army so it matched the frame. You probably could use a Navy summer whites if you want white. They come in two types; web and the elastic/stretch type. The belts are a bit wider and heavier than the original part. Been retired from USAF for 20 years so I don't have ready access anymore to military clothing sales. So the net may work for you. Jim Long -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pbaize at satx.rr.com Fri Aug 31 07:56:31 2018 From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 08:56:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tiny Tires References: <39E213B0-8644-41C0-B4D1-CB471A5E0415@comcast.net> I have a set of Kumho Power Star? 185/70r13, fit nice.?? they dont have powerstar anymore but a type called solus Pat 74 Spitfire 71 Stag On 8/29/2018 11:16 AM, levilevi wrote: > Jeff, > > If you?re just doing street driving Walmart has 13 inch tires for $60-70 each. > > Bud > > >> On Aug 28, 2018, at 3:40 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >> >> Just bought (another) 1976 Spitfire, and the tires I had before aren't >> available any more. Anyone recently bought some 13 inch tires they >> could recommend? >> >> -- Jeff >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 31 14:14:50 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 16:14:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Washer bottle strap. References: Would that mean I would have to change out the belt on Labor Day? Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: James E. Long To: Triumphs at Autox.team.net daily digest Sent: Fri, Aug 31, 2018 2:25 pm Subject: [TR] Washer bottle strap. Dave, I used a military issue belt stretch trouser belt. I used a black/Army so it matched the frame. You probably could use a Navy summer whites if you want white. They come in two types; web and the elastic/stretch type. The belts are a bit wider and heavier than the original part. Been retired from USAF for 20 years so I don't have ready access anymore to military clothing sales. So the net may work for you. Jim Long ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Aug 31 17:03:22 2018 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 19:03:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions References: <000001d43f1d$e0876c80$a1964580$@fuse.net> <5bbe5225-fa3b-9eb0-9931-bb46a283c201@verizon.net>, <001201d4405b$f30946a0$d91bd3e0$@ukpips.org.uk> Thanks to everyone who responded to my request for the least painless way to check/top off my transmission fluid. I am probably going to go with inserting a rubber floor pan plug into the side of my transmission cover. Thanks again! Dave Connitt From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Cliff Hansen Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2018 4:26 PM To: John Macartney ; ptegler at verizon.net; 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Randall' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions Just me, but I won?t be making this mod because I don?t trust myself to not spill gear oil on the carpets. You can?t clean that stink out. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _____ Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2018 6:21:15 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions And if my memory serves me correctly (which these days it often doesn?t!) access to that plug and refilling the gearbox was an absolute s*d? That said, my ?59 Frogeye and ?65 Midget didn?t have dipsticks. Yer just poked in yer finger to check if it went into any oil. Jonmac Sent: 30 August 2018 04:46 Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions take a look at (forgive me) the MG Midget cover plug for the tranny dipstck big round plug, VERY easy to install in a hole...sits behind the radio over the tunnel ptegler On 8/29/2018 12:45 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: The Le Mans TR3S and TRS cars did this into the 1960s, long after it had stopped in production. We almost did the dipstick top cover mod when we upgraded my TR3B to OD. Can?t remember now why we didn?t.... FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I could keep the dipstick. The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can pour directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and trying to keep it clean. Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be hard to add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big rubber plug to fit it. -- Randall Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 31 14:13:16 2018 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 16:13:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions I'll pull the carpets out first. Same reason. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen To: John Macartney ; ptegler ; 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Randall' Cc: triumphs Sent: Fri, Aug 31, 2018 1:13 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions Just me, but I won?t be making this mod because I don?t trust myself to not spill gear oil on the carpets. You can?t clean that stink out. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Triumphs on behalf of John Macartney Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2018 6:21:15 AM To: ptegler at verizon.net; 'Don Hiscock'; 'Randall' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions And if my memory serves me correctly (which these days it often doesn?t!) access to that plug and refilling the gearbox was an absolute s*d? That said, my ?59 Frogeye and ?65 Midget didn?t have dipsticks. Yer just poked in yer finger to check if it went into any oil. Jonmac From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Tegler Sent: 30 August 2018 04:46 To: Don Hiscock ; Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for suggestions on tools to use to top off Triumph transmissions take a look at (forgive me) the MG Midget cover plug for the tranny dipstck big round plug, VERY easy to install in a hole...sits behind the radio over the tunnel ptegler On 8/29/2018 12:45 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: The Le Mans TR3S and TRS cars did this into the 1960s, long after it had stopped in production. We almost did the dipstick top cover mod when we upgraded my TR3B to OD. Can?t remember now why we didn?t.... On Tuesday, August 28, 2018, Randall wrote: FWIW, TR2 through early 3A had a dipstick for the gearbox. When I converted to a TR6 box, I used the early top cover casting, so I could keep the dipstick. The dipstick hole is roughly 1" diameter, so with care you can pour directly into it. Lots less hassle than carrying a funnel and trying to keep it clean. Of course, my car has the hole to access it, but it wouldn't be hard to add to a later car. And the usual suspects sell a big rubber plug to fit it. -- Randall On 28 August 2018 18:24:25 GMT-04:00, Dave Connitt wrote: Hi All, I hope you have had a great 2018 driving season so far. I was lucky enough to travel from Cincinnati, Ohio to the 2018 Kas Kastner race in Beaver, Pa. myself which all totaled was about a 700 mile round trip. I had a great time and the car was problem free. My question to the group is what types of tools to you use to top off your transmission. Especially on the road? They all leak a bit and mine is no different. What I am kind of concerned about is traveling on longer trips and doing normal maintenance like checking the fluid level in the transmission. I don?t have a access opening in my transmission tunnel right now but I plan to address that issue and that kind of gets me to my second question. But first, at the moment, to add transmission oil, I have to lift the entire car up on jack stands, wait for the oil to center itself, then unscrew the fill plug with a open end wrench. Not a solution for on the road? So, I was thinking about cutting a hole big enough for a socket (6-point) or whatever will work on a ?? pipe plug, then use a 1 qt. oil can with a pump to top off the transmission. I can fabricate a metal cover to plug the hole. What have you guys done? Thanks, Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A IRS ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com Virus-free. www.avast.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pryner at outlook.com Sat Aug 11 09:31:29 2018 From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 15:31:29 -0000 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <692856097.51836.1533992163354@connect.xfinity.com> >From my jet engine mechanic days in the Air Force I offer the following. You don't need to use the torque wrench in the computation as it is already calibrated for its length. If you add any extension to the end of the torque wrench you have to adjust for the additional arm length. Our tech orders had a formula to use which took into account the length of the extension including a crowfoot. However, if the crowfoot was used at 90 degrees to the torque wrench no adjustment was required. The calculation involved the angle and length of the extension, not the diameter. Most of the time using a crowsfoot, especially for small torques there was very little difference of the torque wrench setting. Since most specs are within a range, the calculated setting was still in the specified range. You still had to do all of the calculations just to make sure. Pete -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 8:56 AM To: Sujit Roy ; Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] torque wrench question LOL! I'm just glad you science guys are out there! > On August 11, 2018 at 5:51 AM Randall wrote: > > > > Uhm, that would be why English majors subscribe to this list.... > > > > Perhaps an example would help? > > Let's say you want to torque your nut to 50 ftlb, your torque wrench > measures 26" overall and your crowfoot extension is 4" overall. > > First we need the effective length of the torque wrench. On mine, the > business end is about 1" diameter, while the hand grip extends about 2" > beyond the center of my hand. So we subtract half of the head > diameter > (0.5") and the 2" for the hand grip to get 23.5" effective length. > > Now the effective length of the torque wrench plus crowfoot extension. > Assuming both ends of the crowfoot are around 1" diameter, it would > extend the center by about 3", or 26.5" overall. > > Divide those two numbers to get the ratio. 23.5/26.5 = .89 (rounded > to 2 > digits) > > Multiply the desired torque by the ratio. 50 * .89 = 44.5 ftlb. Round > that to two digits, and set your wrench to 45 ftlb. > > Hmm, well, perhaps not. Reminds me of an old David Crosby line: "You > see just below the surface of the mud, there's more mud here." > > -- Randall > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From pryner at outlook.com Sat Aug 18 13:09:58 2018 From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 19:09:58 -0000 Subject: [TR] mechanics gloves References: <2127624607.657543.1534603985765@connect.xfinity.com> <20180818165735.I378B.139166.root@cdptpa-web27> I use the same. I use the 5mm for small jobs and the 7mm for tougher ones. They go on sale all the time so don't pay full price. By boating buddy uses Kirkland ones from Costco. Don't know the price but they seem very tough. Pete -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of glemon at neb.rr.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:58 PM To: Triumphs List ; TERRY SMITH Subject: Re: [TR] mechanics gloves I use the Harbor Freight Nitrile blue gloves which are $6-7 for a hundred. I guess the main reason I use them is because they are available and cheap. It doesn't take much to tear them. I do like them for small jobs like oil changes because it saves a lot of cleanup time. On big jobs I will often start of wearing them, but after the 2nd or 3rd time one tears I say screw it and just keep working. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From jdinnis at gmail.com Mon Aug 13 11:28:56 2018 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 17:28:56 -0000 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <692856097.51836.1533992163354@connect.xfinity.com> <000001d431b9$00131b70$00395250$@flash.net> <462F8A9B8A9644DBB9113EC8FE543BE3@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> The answer is, it depends on the TYPE of torque wrench. A "clicker" or digital load cell will always read correctly. But a beam style wrench can be fooled depending on exactly ho your cheater bar attaches. This is because a clicker torque wrench is measuring torque against a spring inside the bar. You pre load the spring by selecting the torque you want then no matter how much force you apply to the handle it still clicks at the right torque. A Beam style wrench works different. It is measuring the about of twist in the socket end of the beam. It is essentially comparing the amount of force on the socket to the the force on the handle. It iwll only read correctly if the socket and handle are the length it expects them to be. This is why the handle on these often has a pivot in the middle. The wrench will ONLY read correctly if the handle is balanced on this pivot (not touching the bean at either end. Now, you attach a cheater bar such that it can ONLY contact the wrench at that pivot and no where else, it will still read correctly. If your cheater bar makes contact with anywhere else on the bar, game over. On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 8:16 PM, Randall wrote: > > The wrench will > > measure the same torque whether I choke up 6" or use a > > cheater bar (yes, I > > do to get that 105ftlb). > > If the wrench reads the same, then why bother with the cheater bar? > > Answer is, it doesn't read the same. The wrench responds to the torque it > sees, which is force applied to the handle times the length of the handle. > Your cheater bar increases the length, so the same force at the end of the > cheater bar results in more torque at the fastener and a higher reading on > the torque wrench. > > But, when the cheater (extension) is between the wrench and the fastener, > the reading doesn't change even though the torque is greater. That's why > you need a correction factor, based on the length of the extension vs the > length of the torque wrench. > > Maybe a thought experiment would help. Let's say you have a little bitty > torque wrench, only 1' long and it only reads to 30 ftlb (for 30 lbf on the > handle). Now let's say there is a 6' extension between it and the > fastener; > and you still apply 30 lbf to the handle. Do you really think it will > still > be only 30 ftlb at the fastener? Or that the torque wrench is magically > going to read 210 ftlb? (30 lbf times 7') > > Now imagine you use a 7' long wrench instead, and pull on it with 30 lbf. > How much torque does that apply? > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 13 12:24:44 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 18:24:44 -0000 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <692856097.51836.1533992163354@connect.xfinity.com> <000001d431b9$00131b70$00395250$@flash.net> <462F8A9B8A9644DBB9113EC8FE543BE3@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> Good point, I use a Seekonk wrench with a dial indicator, no pivots or clicks. :-) Bill Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 13, 2018, at 12:28 PM, John Innis wrote: The answer is, it depends on the TYPE of torque wrench. A "clicker" or digital load cell will always read correctly. But a beam style wrench can be fooled depending on exactly ho your cheater bar attaches. This is because a clicker torque wrench is measuring torque against a spring inside the bar. You pre load the spring by selecting the torque you want then no matter how much force you apply to the handle it still clicks at the right torque. A Beam style wrench works different. It is measuring the about of twist in the socket end of the beam. It is essentially comparing the amount of force on the socket to the the force on the handle. It iwll only read correctly if the socket and handle are the length it expects them to be. This is why the handle on these often has a pivot in the middle. The wrench will ONLY read correctly if the handle is balanced on this pivot (not touching the bean at either end. Now, you attach a cheater bar such that it can ONLY contact the wrench at that pivot and no where else, it will still read correctly. If your cheater bar makes contact with anywhere else on the bar, game over. > On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 8:16 PM, Randall wrote: > > The wrench will > > measure the same torque whether I choke up 6" or use a > > cheater bar (yes, I > > do to get that 105ftlb). > > If the wrench reads the same, then why bother with the cheater bar? > > Answer is, it doesn't read the same. The wrench responds to the torque it > sees, which is force applied to the handle times the length of the handle. > Your cheater bar increases the length, so the same force at the end of the > cheater bar results in more torque at the fastener and a higher reading on > the torque wrench. > > But, when the cheater (extension) is between the wrench and the fastener, > the reading doesn't change even though the torque is greater. That's why > you need a correction factor, based on the length of the extension vs the > length of the torque wrench. > > Maybe a thought experiment would help. Let's say you have a little bitty > torque wrench, only 1' long and it only reads to 30 ftlb (for 30 lbf on the > handle). Now let's say there is a 6' extension between it and the fastener; > and you still apply 30 lbf to the handle. Do you really think it will still > be only 30 ftlb at the fastener? Or that the torque wrench is magically > going to read 210 ftlb? (30 lbf times 7') > > Now imagine you use a 7' long wrench instead, and pull on it with 30 lbf. > How much torque does that apply? > > -- Randall > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 13 12:36:27 2018 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 18:36:27 -0000 Subject: [TR] torque wrench question References: <1F95AE79-0B59-49A9-AB5B-DC3101BEC4BB@ca.rr.com> <683947867.6971.1533955786331@connect.xfinity.com> <921F4B6E5D3A42F5BF27F6F40097C29F@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <692856097.51836.1533992163354@connect.xfinity.com> <000001d431b9$00131b70$00395250$@flash.net> <462F8A9B8A9644DBB9113EC8FE543BE3@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8> <70CE006E-C4CD-41B1-B6E5-78F3C164751A@flash.net> > Good point, I use a Seekonk wrench with a dial indicator, no > pivots or clicks. :-) > No matter what type it is, you still need a correction factor for a crowfoot wrench sticking straight out. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 17 07:49:02 2018 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 13:49:02 -0000 Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <346089079.9205955.1534442775947.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <346089079.9205955.1534442775947@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d4359f$f7373690$e5a5a3b0$@cox.net> <1082185719.365826.1534485805020@connect.xfinity.com> <5DF59F06A5E05E47A21C0E72057265D901BFA9FF56@msgdb11.utad.utoledo.edu> All good suggestions, might I add one more from experience. As this is a new rebuild I?m guess everything has recently been apart and back together. My 3 had a similar problem that it just wouldn?t pull past around 3500rpm, felt like valve float. Not sure how I thought to check but the adjustment for the throttle linkage was out of wack, butterfly would only open around 2/3. Working with the linkage and the stop bolt behind the pedal created a whole new level of performance. One caution: Do Not adjust so the the butterflies act as throttle stops, new problems will ensue. Thanks to SWMBO for siting and depressing the pedal, over and over, while I fiddled. Bill B TS30800L Sent from my Handspring Treo On Aug 17, 2018, at 7:20 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote: Is it possible the distributor shaft bronze bushings could be worn just enough that at higher RPM that extra clearance or possible wobble could affect the timing of the points action and gap, and/or the rotor to cap timing and spacing? Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of TERRY SMITH [terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:03 AM To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com; jpaynepbr at cox.net; Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that. That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires. Then the distributor cap and rotor. Some of the older rotors were sketchy. Have fun! Terry Smith, '58 TR3A New Hampshire > On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > > > > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). > > Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ...any thots? > > > > Have electronic ignition. > > Gary n. > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Fri Aug 17 10:12:19 2018 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 16:12:19 -0000 Subject: [TR] Flutter miss It looks like we have a consensus that this is an electrical issue. ?Now the question I have for those who've commented, in what order should he begin the search? ? Two weeks ago we had this "fluttering" in our 24 Hours of LeMons race car up at Ridge Motorsports Park in Washington, and it was a stripped stud in the alternator, so it wasn't making a good connection and thus not charging efficiently. ?We started to track down the issue at the battery and not the alternator so it took us a long time, all while the race was still going. So for Gary to begin going through his?car, ideally doing one thing at a time so he knows when he finds the problem. ?I'd say check the alternator or generator to make sure it's putting close to 14 volts? ?Check the battery. ?Check power to the coil. ?Check the output of the coil. Then the distributor, rotor, etc. ? I'm far from an expert on this, so I ask the group, step by step where should Gary behind to track this down? Rye PH: 530-FIND-RYE On Aug 17, 2018, at 05:43 AM, "Reihing, Randall S." wrote: Is it possible the distributor shaft bronze bushings could be worn just enough that at higher RPM that extra clearance or possible wobble could affect the timing of the points action and gap, and/or the rotor to cap timing and spacing?? Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of TERRY SMITH [terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:03 AM To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com; jpaynepbr at cox.net; Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that.? That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires.? Then the distributor cap and rotor.? Some of the older rotors were sketchy.? Have fun! Terry Smith, '58 TR3A New Hampshire On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. ? Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Flutter miss ? Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). Anything over 3,000 rpm. ?3,000 miles on new overhaul. ?Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? ? Have electronic ignition. Gary n. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 17 13:15:27 2018 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 19:15:27 -0000 Subject: [TR] Flutter miss References: <56622f6d-38c4-4723-bb33-1a462a5b4633@me.com> There have been many qualified and knowledgeable suggestions already. In terms of order, I'd most support common tune-up steps first. I didn't see it mentioned when these were last done. Points (not in this case, of course). Plugs. Condenser. Wires. Distributor Cap. Rotor. Valve settings. > On August 17, 2018 at 12:11 PM Rye Livingston wrote: > > It looks like we have a consensus that this is an electrical issue. Now the question I have for those who've commented, in what order should he begin the search? > > Two weeks ago we had this "fluttering" in our 24 Hours of LeMons race car up at Ridge Motorsports Park in Washington, and it was a stripped stud in the alternator, so it wasn't making a good connection and thus not charging efficiently. We started to track down the issue at the battery and not the alternator so it took us a long time, all while the race was still going. > > So for Gary to begin going through his car, ideally doing one thing at a time so he knows when he finds the problem. I'd say check the alternator or generator to make sure it's putting close to 14 volts? Check the battery. Check power to the coil. Check the output of the coil. Then the distributor, rotor, etc. > > I'm far from an expert on this, so I ask the group, step by step where should Gary behind to track this down? > > Rye > PH: 530-FIND-RYE > > On Aug 17, 2018, at 05:43 AM, "Reihing, Randall S." wrote: > > > > > Is it possible the distributor shaft bronze bushings could be worn just enough that at higher RPM that extra clearance or possible wobble could affect the timing of the points action and gap, and/or the rotor to cap timing and spacing? > > > > Randall Reihing > > 1959 TR3A > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of TERRY SMITH [terryrs at comcast.net] > > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 2:03 AM > > To: nafzigerg at yahoo.com mailto:nafzigerg at yahoo.com ; jpaynepbr at cox.net mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net ; Triumphs List > > Subject: Re: [TR] Flutter miss > > > > > > > > > > Spark Plug wires will fail under load like that. That'd be my first thought before plugs, especially with electronic ignition and especially if you're running anything other than copper core wires. Then the distributor cap and rotor. Some of the older rotors were sketchy. > > > > > > Have fun! > > > > > > Terry Smith, '58 TR3A > > > > New Hampshire > > > > > > > > > On August 16, 2018 at 4:30 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > > > > > > > > Condenser and coil seem like likely culprits to me. > > > > > > > > > > > > Jonas Payne > > > > > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > > > > > 702.882.6711 > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com mailto:nafzigerg at yahoo.com > > > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2018 11:06 AM > > > To: Triumphs List > > > Subject: [TR] Flutter miss > > > > > > > > > > > > Tr-3 starting to miss (like a ?fluttering?). > > > > > > Anything over 3,000 rpm. 3,000 miles on new overhaul. Gonna check carb oil, plugs, fuel filter/pump, ....any thots? > > > > > > > > > > > > Have electronic ignition. > > > > > > Gary n. > > > > > > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__overview.mail.yahoo.com_-3F.src-3DiOS&d=DwMFaQ&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=C7YK_7UmW1SIe0MJ-qidHAnCzBON2tVPLHAb0IfgWMs&s=04_pDzfdn4OPjDTW3GduIvg47VjVFYSAS9wlGeGOrBU&e= > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brakey6666 at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 11:02:48 2018 From: brakey6666 at gmail.com (Glenn Franco) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 13:02:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at a steady cruising speed. The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't drop out but remains steady. 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately 2500-3000 rpm. Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping overrunning clutch?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Aug 1 14:59:44 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 16:59:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma References: I would be looking for a bleed somewhere & check the pump, valves, etc, and try to get the pressure up a bit. Is it a big or small piston A? Does the accumulator hold "rest" pressure for some time? Glen (w/1 n) -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco via Fot To: FOT list Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 2:18 pm Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at a steady cruising speed. The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't drop out but remains steady. 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately 2500-3000 rpm. Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping overrunning clutch?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Wed Aug 1 17:44:52 2018 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 18:44:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma References: I don't think the unidirectional (overrun) clutch can slip. It can only break and you would know it. I'd guess it is just slipping. 350 is about right for a large accumulator model, but you need about 450 for a small accumulator. Low pressure is usually just spring fatigue. That can be fixed by shimming the spring with a couple of hardware store washers. I'd get the pressure up to spec first before anything else. I suppose the type of oil might cause slipping too. ?- Larry Young On 8/1/2018 12:02 PM, Glenn Franco via Fot wrote: > Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. > > I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in > the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. > > The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at > a steady cruising speed. > > The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up > speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. > > We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing > oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a > pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't > drop out but remains steady. > > 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate > oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately > 2500-3000 rpm. > > Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping > overrunning clutch?? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance > > Glenn Franco > > 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mhado at att.net Wed Aug 1 21:05:12 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 22:05:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma References: <164f74a11f7-c8b-ed70@webjas-vac227.srv.aolmail.net> Also, check the eight O.D. springs to make sure they are the correct ones and in the right location. If a ?long? one is installed where a ?short? one should be, the coil may bind before the clutch has moved the full distance and will slip or not engage at all. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 4:00 PM To: brakey6666 at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma I would be looking for a bleed somewhere & check the pump, valves, etc, and try to get the pressure up a bit. Is it a big or small piston A? Does the accumulator hold "rest" pressure for some time? Glen (w/1 n) -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco via Fot To: FOT list Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 2:18 pm Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at a steady cruising speed. The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't drop out but remains steady. 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately 2500-3000 rpm. Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping overrunning clutch?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 22:49:48 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 21:49:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT Nomination - Rodney Earwood Hello Amici, I would like to nominate Rodney Earwood to our group. He has recently purchased a 1962 G Production Spitfire MkI from Florida. The car has racing history back to 1978 mostly in the Midwest at Mid-Ohio and Road America. Rodney lives 15 minutes from Road Atlanta and intends to race the car in SVRA and HSR events after some modifications to help him fit in the car...this I am very familiar with... Rodney has a variety of racing experiences; go karts, motocross, some circle track and recently running enduros in Datsun sedans. Rodney's contact Email is: proappliance at yahoo.com Gotta keep those Spitfire guys coming...do I have a second? Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Aug 2 05:57:41 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 11:57:41 +0000 Subject: [Fot] September VRG event at PittRace Just a FYI for anybody attending the VRG event at PittRace in September and wanting electric. A couple of us have snagged power spots in the South paddock. You have to call the track directly and reserve them. It was like $50/$75 ish for the weekend if I remember correctly. Its kind of nice in the South paddock, hardly any traffic and more low keyed. Farther from the bathrooms/showers though. When I called there were still spots available. Marty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Thu Aug 2 06:15:57 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 08:15:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT Nomination - Rodney Earwood References: I'll second. Welcome aboard Rodney. Cheers, Bill On 8/2/2018 12:49 AM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Hello Amici, > > I would like to nominate Rodney Earwood to our group. > > He has recently purchased a 1962 G Production Spitfire MkI from > Florida. The car has racing history back to 1978 mostly in the Midwest > at Mid-Ohio and Road America. > > Rodney lives 15 minutes from Road Atlanta and intends to race the car > in SVRA and HSR events after some modifications to help him fit in the > car...this I am very familiar with... > > Rodney has a variety of racing experiences; go karts, motocross, some > circle track and recently running enduros in Datsun sedans. > > Rodney's contact Email is: proappliance at yahoo.com > > Gotta keep those Spitfire guys coming...do I have a second? > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 2 06:54:12 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 12:54:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] FOT Nomination - Rodney Earwood References: SECOND Welcome, Rodney! Regards,Bob Lang On Thursday, August 2, 2018, 6:17:12 AM EDT, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Hello Amici, I would like to nominate Rodney Earwood to our group. He has recently purchased a 1962 G Production Spitfire MkI from Florida. The car has racing history back to 1978 mostly in the Midwest at Mid-Ohio and Road America. Rodney lives 15 minutes from Road Atlanta and intends to race the car in SVRA and HSR events after some modifications to help him fit in the car...this I am very familiar with... Rodney has a variety of racing experiences; go karts, motocross, some circle track and recently running enduros in Datsun sedans. Rodney's contact Email is:?proappliance at yahoo.com Gotta keep those Spitfire guys coming...do I have a second? Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Thu Aug 2 13:13:13 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2018 15:13:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] September VRG event at PittRace References: there are also spots in the north paddock, along the pit road you take when you return from the track, on the right against spectator hill. On Aug 2, 2018, at 7:57 AM, marty via Fot wrote: Just a FYI for anybody attending the VRG event at PittRace in September and wanting electric. A couple of us have snagged power spots in the South paddock. You have to call the track directly and reserve them. It was like $50/$75 ish for the weekend if I remember correctly. Its kind of nice in the South paddock, hardly any traffic and more low keyed. Farther from the bathrooms/showers though. When I called there were still spots available. Marty _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 5 17:57:40 2018 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2018 23:57:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] KCup photos hi rez References: <1573959677.2424113.1533513460951.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Attached is a link to my Dropbox album with some hi rez photos of the Kastner Cup 2018. I'll be adding more soon. I have a total of 2770 photos from the 2 days.? If you see any that you want, I can send them to you along with more. I accept donations... :-) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yvw1t1cexr118y7/AADi8etMkMs3mOQ4I0zkIjEga?dl=0 Shawn Frank Spitfire & GT6 Magazine, Editor Continued Legacy, Owner North American Triumphs, Admin Friends of Triumph, NASS#746, VTR#94692, Iowa BCC Drive Away Cancer Iowa, driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude"'63 Triumph Spitfire4 MK1 "Lucy"'72 Triumph GT6 MK3 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Aug 6 11:09:25 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 13:09:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] KCup photos hi rez References: <1573959677.2424113.1533513460951.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1573959677.2424113.1533513460951@mail.yahoo.com> Good Stuff. Peg Kastner still makes a stunning Pit Bunny in the Awards photos. Kas has often been quoted as saying, "I always liked the paint and body work." Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Shawn Frank via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sun, Aug 5, 2018 10:17 pm Subject: [Fot] KCup photos hi rez Attached is a link to my Dropbox album with some hi rez photos of the Kastner Cup 2018. I'll be adding more soon. I have a total of 2770 photos from the 2 days. If you see any that you want, I can send them to you along with more. I accept donations... :-) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yvw1t1cexr118y7/AADi8etMkMs3mOQ4I0zkIjEga?dl=0 Shawn Frank Spitfire & GT6 Magazine, Editor Continued Legacy, Owner North American Triumphs, Admin Friends of Triumph, NASS#746, VTR#94692, Iowa BCC Drive Away Cancer Iowa, driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '63 Triumph Spitfire4 MK1 "Lucy" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 13:16:01 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 14:16:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] MeWe Vintage Triumph page. Although I don?t get tired of seeing pictures of every Ferrari and Cobra ever raced I do wonder why more old Triumph racing pictures don?t show up on social media. A lot of Triumph racers must have pictures of their current and former Triumph race cars in files on their computers. I put a page on MeWe to upload interesting old racing photos of Triumphs. Let?s get the historic Triumph racing photos out of the family archives and share them with your racing buddies. I?ve set up this page on MeWe It requires regular postings to stay active and I don?t have enough pictures to keep it going. Post yours ! https://mewe.com/join/vintage_triumph_cars Sent from my iPhone From billdentin at aol.com Wed Aug 8 17:35:13 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 19:35:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] MeWe Vintage Triumph page. References: <292DC6B6-4B3B-450E-8F3C-176D2743259A@gmail.com> Bob... Doesn't the FOT already have such a page. They used to. Can it be linked? I don't know what MeWe is. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, August 8, 2018, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Although I don?t get tired of seeing pictures of every Ferrari and Cobra ever raced I do wonder why more old Triumph racing pictures don?t show up on social media. A lot of Triumph racers must have pictures of their current and former Triumph race cars in files on their computers. I put a page on MeWe to upload interesting old racing photos of Triumphs. Let?s get the historic Triumph racing photos out of the family archives and share them with your racing buddies. I?ve set up this page on MeWe It requires regular postings to stay active and I don?t have enough pictures to keep it going. Post yours ! https://mewe.com/join/vintage_triumph_cars Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 9 08:40:07 2018 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 09:40:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 door hinges A M I C I Does anyone have extra TR3 door hinges to sell? Condition, and early/late probably does not matter. Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Thu Aug 9 15:33:46 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 23:33:46 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Fot] TR3 door hinges References: <20180809155506.70A6D25891C6@autox.team.net> I have 4 hinges from my former TR3 racecar ( total loss in 2014 during the rolling start of a race at the Zandvoort circuit), but I made them lower and shorter and also much thinner, with only 2 bolts instead of 3 : all to save weight! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 9 augustus 2018 16:40:07 Onderwerp: [Fot] TR3 door hinges A M I C I Does anyone have extra TR3 door hinges to sell? Condition, and early/late probably does not matter. Thanks Dennis _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com Sat Aug 11 10:36:27 2018 From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 11:36:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? Dusty Nicholson 1971 FP Spitfire #4 Sent from my iPhone From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Sat Aug 11 17:52:01 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 19:52:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> McLeod? pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with my Eaglegate conversion. Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. www.mcleodracing.com NFI Cheers, Bill On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: > Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? > > Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? > > Dusty Nicholson > 1971 FP Spitfire #4 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Sun Aug 12 18:29:58 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 20:29:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> <6d436332-1691-b2d9-9b69-7cd86fef84ee@verizon.net> After further review, to use a football phrase,? the clutch disc is 8 1/2? x 1 1/8 shaft and 21 splines. That was on the box and I just measured and counted. PN on the box is 270917. Hope this helps. Cheers, Bill On 8/11/2018 7:52 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: > McLeod pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with > my Eaglegate conversion. > > Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. > Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. > > www.mcleodracing.com > > NFI > > Cheers, Bill > > > On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: >> Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are >> you using? >> >> Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has >> worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an >> upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been >> told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears >> to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know >> what it was or where to get it? >> >> Dusty Nicholson >> 1971 FP Spitfire #4 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com Sun Aug 12 19:56:00 2018 From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 20:56:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> <6d436332-1691-b2d9-9b69-7cd86fef84ee@verizon.net> Thanks for all the replies. On an unrelated note, I?ve recently acquired a used Summers Brothers spit axle that is 1? longer than the corvair axle I was hoping to pair it up with (since I broke the other corvair axle). Am I asking for trouble to run this set up of unequal length axles? Seems the upright on the longer axle will just ?lean in? to reach the leaf spring eye and it might just work. Or should I have the longer axle cut down and new u-joint yoke spline grooves cut? I think you call this racing on a budget. Dusty Nicholson 1971 FP Spitfire #4 Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 12, 2018, at 7:29 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: > > After further review, to use a football phrase, the clutch disc is 8 1/2 x 1 1/8 shaft and 21 splines. That was on the box and I just measured and counted. PN on the box is 270917. > > Hope this helps. > > Cheers, Bill > > >> On 8/11/2018 7:52 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >> McLeod pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with my Eaglegate conversion. >> >> Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. >> >> www.mcleodracing.com >> >> NFI >> >> Cheers, Bill >> >> >>> On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: >>> Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? >>> >>> Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? >>> >>> Dusty Nicholson >>> 1971 FP Spitfire #4 >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com > > From alfetta95 at optonline.net Mon Aug 13 07:05:26 2018 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 09:05:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat Friends! I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3.? ? What are you using? Thanks Todd Redmond 1958 TR3a From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Aug 13 10:15:13 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 10:15:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> <6d436332-1691-b2d9-9b69-7cd86fef84ee@verizon.net> Hi Dusty, I do think you?re asking for, if not trouble, then at least some challenges with unequal length axles. Your swing spring will ?swing? differently with one vertical link essentially being shorter because it ?leans in? at the top. I can?t predict the effect but unless you?re just doing circle track (only left turns) then the transition of the suspension going from left to right turns might get real interesting with not so smooth shifting of weight transfer or a twitch of some kind, or maybe even a sudden jerk. The most obvious effect will be the camber of the real wheels will be different which will put different amounts of tire patch on the pavement resulting in different wear and probably handling. I made my vertical lengths adjustable with a kit from http://www.wolfitt.com/wolfitt_products_1.htm They indicate that very little change (1/4-1/2 inch) in the length of the vertical lengths will change the camber by about 1 degree. I didn?t do the geometry but a vertical link that ?leans in? will be shorter and may give you a bigger change in the camber than you want to run on one wheel. Running different cambers on the rear wheels does not seem like a good idea. De-arching the spring or blocks between the diff and the spring will change camber but it would affect both sides equally. This link explains/shows the effects of those changes and a good visual on the swing spring operation. http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#rear I would be hesitant to run different length axles as it introduces more variables to an already tricky system. You will go to a lot of work with the backplates, pressing bearings on and off, and other fun activities, I?d hate to see you do all that and be unhappy with the results. I was lucky to find some brand new early Summers Brothers axles and switched them out only to find that the axles that came with the car were some of Kastner?s ?indestructible? axles with the bigger u-joints. If I?d only known I?d have kept them and just changed the u-joints. Oh well they can go on the next car. Good luck, Bud > On Aug 12, 2018, at 7:56 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: > > Thanks for all the replies. > > On an unrelated note, I?ve recently acquired a used Summers Brothers spit axle that is 1? longer than the corvair axle I was hoping to pair it up with (since I broke the other corvair axle). Am I asking for trouble to run this set up of unequal length axles? Seems the upright on the longer axle will just ?lean in? to reach the leaf spring eye and it might just work. Or should I have the longer axle cut down and new u-joint yoke spline grooves cut? > > I think you call this racing on a budget. > > Dusty Nicholson > 1971 FP Spitfire #4 > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 12, 2018, at 7:29 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >> >> After further review, to use a football phrase, the clutch disc is 8 1/2 x 1 1/8 shaft and 21 splines. That was on the box and I just measured and counted. PN on the box is 270917. >> >> Hope this helps. >> >> Cheers, Bill >> >> >>> On 8/11/2018 7:52 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >>> McLeod pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with my Eaglegate conversion. >>> >>> Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. >>> >>> www.mcleodracing.com >>> >>> NFI >>> >>> Cheers, Bill >>> >>> >>>> On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: >>>> Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? >>>> >>>> Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? >>>> >>>> Dusty Nicholson >>>> 1971 FP Spitfire #4 >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > From vfracing at aol.com Mon Aug 13 12:09:43 2018 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 14:09:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> Todd; I use a Cobra Suzuka seat in my TR4A. Very comfortable and good support. Took a lot of doing and building the cage around the seat to make it fit. I tried the Cobra "Vintage" seat as it fit much better in the car, but was too narrow for my butt (34 waist). My son uses an "Upright" Kirkey, leaned back a bit) in his '62 TR4. It's Ok but an upgrade is on his "to do" list. Two things we learned when selecting seats: 1) FIA seats approved for installation with no back support REQUIRE that the mounts supplied by the manufacturer be used in order to not use a back support. 2) After five years, any FIA seat requires a back support whether or not it is approved without a back support when new. So it is best to plan on adding a back support to the seat regardless of rating. (We supported my seat directly from the roll cage on one side) and added a back support. Phil Gott '65 TR4A racer (HRG group 3) vfracing at aol.com -----Original Message----- From: Todd Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 10:07 am Subject: [Fot] Race Seat Friends!I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. What are you using?ThanksTodd Redmond1958 TR3a_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Mon Aug 13 17:02:20 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 16:02:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> Hi Todd, I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. ~STEVE > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot wrote: > > Friends! > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > What are you using? > > > Thanks > Todd Redmond > 1958 TR3a > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Aug 13 20:37:35 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 02:37:35 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net>, <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> I must not have sent to all, but Steve points out the problem of buying an off the shelf seat...as I pointed out, Baker will custom make a seat that fits you, just like they do for the NASCAR guys, I guess the problem is you have to come to their shop in Charlotte; but there must be other shops that do the same thing... find one. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 13, 2018, at 10:17 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > Hi Todd, > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > ~STEVE > > > >> On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot wrote: >> >> Friends! >> >> >> I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. >> What are you using? >> >> >> Thanks >> Todd Redmond >> 1958 TR3a >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 09:16:26 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 08:16:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> Good tips and suggestions, Steve. Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so the height limit was known and set. I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send it back until you get the best fit. I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest extension solves this issue. I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also added a little lumbar padding under the cover. Dave H. > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > > Hi Todd, > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > ~STEVE > > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot wrote: > > > > Friends! > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > What are you using? > > > > > > Thanks > > Todd Redmond > > 1958 TR3a > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From billdentin at aol.com Tue Aug 14 13:19:59 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 15:19:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Triumph cousins... Amici... I've too much time on my hands these days, and I recently used some to watch some auto-related YouTube stuff on TV. I stumbled upon some old Pathe BMC promo-documentaries from the early 1960s on the development of the MINI. They are called Wizardry on Wheels, Parts ONE, TWO, and THREE. While I don't fit in a MINI very well, I have always been fascinated by them out on the race track. Steven Belfer's Dad, Mike, who was my mentor raced and prep'd them as well as Triumph TRs. He always described them as Giant Killers on any short track. The mechanic in him also offered, "Sadly when anything breaks, they seem to explode like a hand grenade." Anyway, each of these three BMC 'reels' are about ten minutes long, and quite interesting. BMC was going for a family sedan that would carry five people and a bunch of their belongings. The car's performance ability was kind of frosting on the cake, because they quickly became the family's race car as well. Considering the old engine used in a brand new model, this was not a fresh power plant. But where they put the tranny, how they placed the engine, and other chassis mods set auto design on its ear, and was a heavy influence for all the stuff from others that followed. Give it a look. You might find it interesting as well. Bill Dentinger -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 13:34:31 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:34:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: RE: Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> <671288474.75027.1534259786671@connect.xfinity.com> <001601d43400$b547c150$1fd743f0$@klaenv.com> <1835954908.83639.1534275003775@connect.xfinity.com> I meant to send to all. -------- Original Message ---------- From: DAVE HOGYE To: Kenneth Knight Date: August 14, 2018 at 12:30 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] Race Seat Thanks Ken, I also built a sturdy frame for the seat with a bracket that attaches to the roll bar mounting point, because I read somewhere that the seat frame should have more than floor sheet metal attachment points. Dave H. On August 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM Kenneth Knight wrote: All good advice from Dave. On thing to remember in the fit is the cover, it does take a bit of room. If you have a back that is not perfect (go figure a Vintage car driver could have a back problem) Pegasus sells a very dense special foam padding that can be placed under the cover. You can put it under your bony butt and at the small of the back to cushion the shock and pressure from the belts. It can also be used on the sides to make that fit just perfect. Underneath the car I have plates that tie that seat into the frame. There are lots of ways to do this but just putting a fender washer under the bracket bolts is NOT enough. Don't forget to tie the back of the seat to roll bar. In an ideal situation that is a bar crossing just about the height of your shoulder blades and this is the perfect mounting spot for the shoulder belts and the seat brace. Ken -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team .net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 8:16 AM To: Steven Belfer via Fot; Todd Redmond; Steven Belfer Subject: Re: [Fot] Race Seat Good tips and suggestions, Steve. Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so the height limit was known and set. I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send it back until you get the best fit. I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest extension solves this issue. I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also added a little lumbar padding under the cover. Dave H. > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot > > wrote: > Hi Todd, > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of > > there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. > ~STEVE > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot > > > > > > wrote: > > > > Friends! > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > What are you using? > > > > > > Thanks > > Todd Redmond > > 1958 TR3a > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kknight at klaenv.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat bracket2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 302379 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat brackets.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 313810 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 383896 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 13:38:08 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:38:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> <671288474.75027.1534259786671@connect.xfinity.com> <001601d43400$b547c150$1fd743f0$@klaenv.com> I think you can see the seat bracket attachment to the roll bar mount in this photo. Dave H. > On August 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM Kenneth Knight wrote: > > > All good advice from Dave. On thing to remember in the fit is the cover, it > does take a bit of room. If you have a back that is not perfect (go figure > a Vintage car driver could have a back problem) Pegasus sells a very dense > special foam padding that can be placed under the cover. You can put it > under your bony butt and at the small of the back to cushion the shock and > pressure from the belts. It can also be used on the sides to make that fit > just perfect. > > Underneath the car I have plates that tie that seat into the frame. There > are lots of ways to do this but just putting a fender washer under the > bracket bolts is NOT enough. Don't forget to tie the back of the seat to > roll bar. In an ideal situation that is a bar crossing just about the > height of your shoulder blades and this is the perfect mounting spot for the > shoulder belts and the seat brace. > > Ken > > -----Original Message----- > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via > Fot > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 8:16 AM > To: Steven Belfer via Fot; Todd Redmond; Steven Belfer > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race Seat > > Good tips and suggestions, Steve. > Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed > the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be > below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so > the height limit was known and set. > I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I > tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom > reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to > get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an > easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in > place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm > extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. > There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended > and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the > seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in > 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. > The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively > snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send > it back until you get the best fit. > I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you > have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest > extension solves this issue. > I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also > added a little lumbar padding under the cover. > Dave H. > > > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Todd, > > > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of > there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. > I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on > the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop > to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support > pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible > in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while > wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > > > > ~STEVE > > > > > > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Friends! > > > > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > > What are you using? > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > Todd Redmond > > > 1958 TR3a > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kknight at klaenv.com > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: rear cockpit, battery.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 158843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 13:42:59 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:42:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> <671288474.75027.1534259786671@connect.xfinity.com> <001601d43400$b547c150$1fd743f0$@klaenv.com> Here's a better photo. > On August 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM Kenneth Knight wrote: > > > All good advice from Dave. On thing to remember in the fit is the cover, it > does take a bit of room. If you have a back that is not perfect (go figure > a Vintage car driver could have a back problem) Pegasus sells a very dense > special foam padding that can be placed under the cover. You can put it > under your bony butt and at the small of the back to cushion the shock and > pressure from the belts. It can also be used on the sides to make that fit > just perfect. > > Underneath the car I have plates that tie that seat into the frame. There > are lots of ways to do this but just putting a fender washer under the > bracket bolts is NOT enough. Don't forget to tie the back of the seat to > roll bar. In an ideal situation that is a bar crossing just about the > height of your shoulder blades and this is the perfect mounting spot for the > shoulder belts and the seat brace. > > Ken > > -----Original Message----- > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via > Fot > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 8:16 AM > To: Steven Belfer via Fot; Todd Redmond; Steven Belfer > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race Seat > > Good tips and suggestions, Steve. > Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed > the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be > below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so > the height limit was known and set. > I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I > tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom > reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to > get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an > easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in > place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm > extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. > There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended > and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the > seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in > 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. > The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively > snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send > it back until you get the best fit. > I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you > have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest > extension solves this issue. > I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also > added a little lumbar padding under the cover. > Dave H. > > > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Todd, > > > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of > there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. > I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on > the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop > to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support > pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible > in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while > wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > > > > ~STEVE > > > > > > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Friends! > > > > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > > What are you using? > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > Todd Redmond > > > 1958 TR3a > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kknight at klaenv.com > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: roll cage mount detail.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 182522 bytes Desc: not available URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Aug 16 08:32:23 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 14:32:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT request References: <1653e182e22-1e99-19c59@webjas-vab177.srv.aolmail.net> I received a request from long time FOT Rick Kristoff. He has been disconnected from the list somehow. His email is rek46 at aol.com. Mark, if you see this can you hook him back up? Thanks, Marty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Thu Aug 16 11:09:09 2018 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 17:09:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] John Sanford References: <2090296785.8573712.1534439349194.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone have contact info for John?? Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Thu Aug 16 11:17:11 2018 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 17:17:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 1500 Race Motor References: <366953455.8557428.1534439831652.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Guys, I was building some motors for myself when I was planning on racing a Spit. I have a 1500 with custom steel main caps and girdle, lightened Nitrided crank with 1300 rod journals, Carrillo rods, custom pistons, custom pan and on and on. It is not together but I would be willing to assemble and Dyno for the right price. I would also be willing to trade for an interesting car or project plus or minus some cash. All the best! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerrypoole at arkansas.net Thu Aug 16 13:18:51 2018 From: jerrypoole at arkansas.net (Jerry Poole) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 15:18:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] 1500 Race Engine Hi Rick, What are you asking for the 1500 race motor " as is" disassembled? Does the project include a prepared head and valve gear, pistons etc. (Don't really need a block). Can this be "Palletized" and shipped via LOL carrier? Are you still located in the Carolinas? Contact me at JerryPoole @ Arkansas.net. Thanks, Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 09:51:08 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 15:51:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Pitt Race Results Query References: <1560064311.7797238.1534521068616.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Will the PittRace race results and lap times ever show up on either the PVGP site or on Speedhive? Asking for a friend. Regards,Bob Lang339-927-4489 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitlist at cox.net Mon Aug 20 12:55:23 2018 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 11:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. Thanks, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Mon Aug 20 19:50:31 2018 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:50:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? Amici, So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. Curious, Bob T -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Aug 21 04:35:28 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 12:35:28 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> I try to keep things simple. I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a Pertronix I breaker. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bob Totten via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? Amici, So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. Curious, Bob T -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Aug 21 06:17:10 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 05:17:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> On 8/20/18 6:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at > Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire.? At home barely > could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. That is also the symptom of a bad condenser. If it were me, unless there is something visibly wrong with the coil, I would first check the point gap, underside of the cap, and swap out the condenser before going out and buying a new coil. Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. I'm running a Mallory distributor as well, and it used to go through condensers on a regular basis. The ignition circuit assumes a good ground through the distributor body. My car's distributor body wasn't making a good enough ground. after a while I added a ground wire between the distributor body and the engine. Since then I have not needed to touch my onboard spare condensers. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Aug 21 06:42:43 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 08:42:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> Hi Bob, are you using the correct ohm coil? My notes say that with points and resistor a 1.5 ohm coil should be used. I use a Pertronix Flame Thrower. $40 or so from Jegs or others. Also with points, make sure the condenser is good. A faulty condenser will cause your symptoms too. Ask me how I know this! Cheers, Bill On 8/20/2018 9:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at > Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire.? At home barely > could get the car off the trailer and into the garage.? Similar > symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to > retire.? So my question is -? what is the popular coil in use by my > brethren ? > > Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a > Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point > Distributor. > > Curious, > > Bob T > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Tue Aug 21 08:06:19 2018 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 10:06:19 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> <000601d4393a$aebf3540$0c3d9fc0$@gmail.com> Bosch Blue, no ballast, with Advanced Distributor (points) 1300 Spit. mike h On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 6:35 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > I try to keep things simple. > > I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a > Pertronix I breaker. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *Bob Totten via > Fot > *Gesendet:* Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 > *An:* fot at autox.team.net > *Betreff:* [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? > > > > Amici, > > > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at > Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely > could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms > from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So > my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? > > > > Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a > Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point > Distributor. > > > > Curious, > > > > Bob T > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mhado at att.net Tue Aug 21 08:53:14 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 09:53:14 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> Joe, Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O'Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry via Fot Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. Thanks, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ac at camoletti.ch Tue Aug 21 09:46:55 2018 From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 17:46:55 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> Amici, my 2 cents? worth : I run a stock distributor but prepped by Jeff Schlemmer (this makes a huge difference), and an original Lucas Coil dated 1963. Not the modern Lucas crap which burns on regular basis No issues and brilliant reliability. Plenty of 6?000 RPM. I have a Voltmeter with 35?000 Volts capability: I tested the modern Lucas Sports coil (gold), Bosch blue coil, Lucas NOS stock coil. The highest value ( I recall close to 30?000) was reached by the Lucas stock NOS (ref SA12) ! While the Lucas gold sports coil barely reached 20?000 or 25?000 if I recall well. As the NOS sellers say: don?t settle for less than OEM ! All the best! Alex Camoletti De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de Bill Tobin via Fot Envoy? : mardi 21 ao?t 2018 14:43 ? : fot at autox.team.net Objet : Re: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? Hi Bob, are you using the correct ohm coil? My notes say that with points and resistor a 1.5 ohm coil should be used. I use a Pertronix Flame Thrower. $40 or so from Jegs or others. Also with points, make sure the condenser is good. A faulty condenser will cause your symptoms too. Ask me how I know this! Cheers, Bill On 8/20/2018 9:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: Amici, So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. Curious, Bob T _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 21 10:48:05 2018 From: putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com (Rich Hahn) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 16:48:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> <000601d4393a$aebf3540$0c3d9fc0$@gmail.com> When I had my 1300 racing Spit I used the same combination from Jeff at Advanced.? He will supply the whole assemble as a kit.? Never had an ignition problem, of course, anything else that could go wrong did!!! On ?Tuesday?, ?August? ?21?, ?2018? ?12?:?40?:?09? ?PM? ?EDT, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: Bosch Blue, no ballast, with Advanced Distributor (points) 1300 Spit. mike h On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 6:35 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: I try to keep things simple. I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a Pertronix I breaker. ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bob Totten via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? ? Amici, ? So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire.? At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage.? Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire.? So my question is -? what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. ? Curious, ? Bob T ______________________________ _________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/ fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Tue Aug 21 12:03:11 2018 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 18:03:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> I agree on the 85-90 weight gear oil. A lot of people think the 90 weight is too heavy or thick but it is very close to a straight 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The viscosity of motor oil and gear oil is measured differently and at different temps. A gear oil has additives and structure that resists the shearing forces between the gear teeth. All TRs came from the factory with this oil and I have used it in customers cars over 40 years. Never a problem. One Healey 3000 had over 976,000 on one rebuild of the overdrive gear box! 90 all the time. Barry From: M&M Hado via Fot To: 'Joe Curry' ; FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:51 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil #yiv6525035276 #yiv6525035276 -- _filtered #yiv6525035276 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6525035276 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv6525035276 #yiv6525035276 p.yiv6525035276MsoNormal, #yiv6525035276 li.yiv6525035276MsoNormal, #yiv6525035276 div.yiv6525035276MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv6525035276 a:link, #yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6525035276 a:visited, #yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276EmailStyle18 {color:black;}#yiv6525035276 .yiv6525035276MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv6525035276 {margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}#yiv6525035276 div.yiv6525035276WordSection1 {}#yiv6525035276 Joe, ?Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil.? The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components.? The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W.? O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice.? Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. ?Mike ? ?From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry via Fot Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil ?I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil.? I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live.? So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. ?Thanks,Joe_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Aug 21 14:29:39 2018 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 16:29:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> <000601d4393a$aebf3540$0c3d9fc0$@gmail.com> <1997371136.396611.1534870085920@mail.yahoo.com> Agree you should check the condenser(s) first. Coils usually fail when hot but will run fine when cold-for a while. Not your symptoms. Voice of experience. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 21, 2018, at 12:48 PM, Rich Hahn via Fot wrote: > > When I had my 1300 racing Spit I used the same combination from Jeff at Advanced. He will supply the whole assemble as a kit. Never had an ignition problem, of course, anything else that could go wrong did!!! > > > On ?Tuesday?, ?August? ?21?, ?2018? ?12?:?40?:?09? ?PM? ?EDT, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > > Bosch Blue, no ballast, with Advanced Distributor (points) 1300 Spit. > > mike h > > On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 6:35 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > I try to keep things simple. > > I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a Pertronix I breaker. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bob Totten via Fot > Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 > An: fot at autox.team.net > Betreff: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? > > > > Amici, > > > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? > > > > Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. > > > > Curious, > > > > Bob T > > > ______________________________ _________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate. html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/ fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Aug 21 20:59:51 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 21:59:51 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> <1336070557.469314.1534874591867@mail.yahoo.com> Let?s see if this table of comparative oil viscosity will stay attached. Duncan > On Aug 21, 2018, at 1:03 PM, barry rosenberg via Fot wrote: > > I agree on the 85-90 weight gear oil. A lot of people think the 90 weight is too heavy or thick but it is very close to a straight 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The viscosity of motor oil and gear oil is measured differently and at different temps. A gear oil has additives and structure that resists the shearing forces between the gear teeth. All TRs came from the factory with this oil and I have used it in customers cars over 40 years. Never a problem. One Healey 3000 had over 976,000 on one rebuild of the overdrive gear box! 90 all the time. > > Barry > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:51 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > Joe, > > Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. > > Mike > > > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM > Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. > > Thanks, > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Oil Viscosity Comparison Table ISO-SAE.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 68342 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ac at camoletti.ch Wed Aug 22 01:00:23 2018 From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 09:00:23 +0200 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> Millers Classic Mineral GL4 80-90 works very well also. Critical that it be GL4, as GL5 will eat the yellow metals. I supplement it with 20% Lucas HD stabilizer, which reduces temperatures notably. De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de M&M Hado via Fot Envoy? : mardi 21 ao?t 2018 16:53 ? : 'Joe Curry'; FOT at autox.team.net Objet : Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil Joe, Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry via Fot Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. Thanks, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Aug 22 23:10:02 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 00:10:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Videos from Grattan last weekend Best parts are Saturday race 2, first couple of laps - I spin and work back up through the field, Sunday race 1, first couple of laps - start @ back because late to grid, pass a bunch of cars early, and Sunday race 2, had a really close race with Tim Covert in his Moondini sports racer. Sat race 1: https://youtu.be/FVDiObg73e8 Sat race 2: https://youtu.be/SFQUYNxwIMI Sat race 3: https://youtu.be/wexCgZZS6KE Sun race 1: https://youtu.be/_Kr87UZis-E Sun race 2: https://youtu.be/DeIWbfOf_xU Cheers, Tony -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Aug 14 05:24:32 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:24:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kevin Potter Yeah I met Kevin a few times years ago, good guy, he's got the right approach and he's a damned good wrench. It was rare to see a Beady-Eye car with mechanical issues! Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: paulricco Cc: kdplep ; emilyricco ; fot ; dpa796 ; Fernibug Sent: Tue, Aug 14, 2018 4:55 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Kevin Potter Paul... Well said, Paul, and an overdue tribute indeed. Kevin Potter built great engines. The Beady Eye agenda (starting with engine builder Mike Belfer) was not to build an engine to win a particular race, but rather to build one to last all year and then be freshened come winter. I used to run 6-8 events a year, and Bob probably ran 16 a year, after he retired. Fortunately we used to help meet engine life expectations by not driving at 10/10ths. But engine building seemed to be Kevin's labor of love, and every spring he would say, "Bill...wait until to try this one!" Kevin's Day Job was that of shop mechanic for my small masonry company. And as a mechanic, he stood even taller in that capacity. There did not seem to be anything he would not undertake. One time I went out in the shop, and he had our crane in there. I do not know how the hell he ever got it in there (it was crossways), but it was in there. The OVHD doors were closed, and it looked to me like he was trying to take the boom off. He was a natural mechanic. He could build stuff, fix stuff, paint stuff, weld stuff. Bring it on. In his pre-Beady Eye days (while Steve's Dad Mike was still alive doing our work), Kevin was a dyed in the wool NASCAR nut. He and his wife traveled to NASCAR races all over the country. He was into Chevy V8s big time, and he built a fine short track racer. I remember it well, because all of the body parts were delivered to my shop one afternoon. They weighed 40 pounds (total). Kevin built the car. Everything, engine, drive train, paint, graphics, everything. It was a thing of beauty. I think he raced it once, which was enough for him to learn that while he had the talent to build such a race car...he could not afford to race. He sold the car. Down through the years while he was building our engines, he continued to use that old machine shop that specialized in Chevy V8s in general, and dragstrip stuff in particular. But Kevin knew what he wanted, and had good ideas on how to get there, and the shop found working on Kevin's little 'Brit stuff' an interesting diversion. Back in the day, my wife loved Kevin, because as many of you know, her husband was damn near worthless when it came to fixing anything. But with Kevin out there in the shop...her problems were easily solved. Well said, Paul and long overdue. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Thursday, July 26, 2018, Paul Ricco wrote: FOT, I would like to acknowledge Kevin Potter?s engine building prowess and contribution to our enjoyment of the TR4 that we race. For those that do not know, we purchased Bob Wismer?s blue Triumph TR4. We have had a great time with the car and have truly enjoyed getting to know the Triumph community. Kevin Potter contributed greatly to our positive experience. He may not even realize how much we appreciate the platform that he provided for us to get our start. If that is the case, that is my fault for not saying thank you sooner. I will keep this brief, but I would like to recognize what Kevin Potter did for us. Kevin Potter helped Bob Wismer and Bill Dentinger with engines and other mechanical matters for their Triumphs. Kevin built an engine for Bob to go with the TR4 that we purchased from Bob. Bob really wanted the new owners of the car to start out with a solid and reliable platform. Bob was very candid about the importance of the car being sold with a well-built fresh engine. Kevin Potter built an engine that has delivered on Bob?s wishes. We have maintained the engine very carefully and gone through the lower end 1 time since we got it. We are in our FOURTH season with the motor that Kevin built. We are running lap times below 3 minutes at Road America and and we can consistently run laps under 1:29 at Blackhawk. That engine is now going to be completely rebuilt. However, we have not suffered any major mechanical issues with it and the head was installed so well that we have no issues with it in the 4 seasons that we have run the car. We have a lot of admiration for Bob Wismer and his vision for the new owners. Furthermore, THNAK YOU to Kevin Potter for delivering on that vision by putting together the motor that he did. Sincerely, Paul Ricco Blue #4 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Fri Aug 17 12:33:23 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 18:33:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles Need some info and help!! Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it'll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven't seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 13:37:29 2018 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 15:37:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> <1336070557.469314.1534874591867@mail.yahoo.com> <42C80F63-1ACC-4F26-9B6F-B1E8DC97D6E6@gmail.com> Brad Penn GL4 non synthetic 85-90. Bruce On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 4:55 AM Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: > Let?s see if this table of comparative oil viscosity will stay attached. > > Duncan > > > > On Aug 21, 2018, at 1:03 PM, barry rosenberg via Fot > wrote: > > I agree on the 85-90 weight gear oil. A lot of people think the 90 weight > is too heavy or thick but it is very close to a straight 30 or 40 weight > motor oil. The viscosity of motor oil and gear oil is measured differently > and at different temps. A gear oil has additives and structure that resists > the shearing forces between the gear teeth. All TRs came from the factory > with this oil and I have used it in customers cars over 40 years. Never a > problem. One Healey 3000 had over 976,000 on one rebuild of the overdrive > gear box! 90 all the time. > > Barry > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* M&M Hado via Fot > *To:* 'Joe Curry' ; FOT at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:51 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > Joe, > > Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 > non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The > NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a > heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W > GL-4 for $10 a quart. > > Mike > > > *From:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Joe Curry via Fot > *Sent:* Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM > *To:* FOT at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it > I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from > Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am > looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the > best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire > gearbox. > > Thanks, > Joe > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Thu Aug 23 14:40:35 2018 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 20:40:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> I think I used heavy duty snap rings but its been so long I may be mistaken. On Thursday, August 23, 2018 3:12 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Need some info and help!! ? Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. ?So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need ?but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. ? So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now??? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. ? Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 23 18:32:01 2018 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 17:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil Thanks for all the feedback on this subject. After considerable study, I have decided to go with Gl4 (85-90). Most likely, I will go with the StaLube brand since that is available locally and is very well priced. Cheers, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Aug 23 19:26:53 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 19:26:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <389289164.1724239.1535056835548@mail.yahoo.com> Mark, Is the brass piece in these pics below what you are looking for? I don?t have a source but thought a pic might help. These came with my axles. Bud > On Aug 23, 2018, at 2:40 PM, Rick Parent via Fot wrote: > > I think I used heavy duty snap rings but its been so long I may be mistaken. > > > > > Need some info and help!! > > Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. > > So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. > > Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6365_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78129 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6368_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 53875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 08:34:40 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (Richard Kristoff) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 10:34:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks,? Rick Kristoff #46 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From teamtri at aol.com Fri Aug 24 09:20:02 2018 From: teamtri at aol.com (teamtri at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 11:20:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> Hi Rick, How you doing??? I have a bunch of questions for you!! Regards, Scott Harper Team Triumph: British Automotive Owner/Operator 330-392-7176 www.teamtriumph.com -----Original Message----- From: Richard Kristoff via Fot To: fot Sent: Fri, Aug 24, 2018 11:07 am Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Aug 24 10:09:52 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 11:09:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> I find most of my FOT email in the Spam folder. Bill Dentinger has taken full responsibility. Bob Kramer On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 10:05 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get > back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can > someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Aug 24 11:25:27 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 17:25:27 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net>, As he certainly should! Sent from my iPhone I find most of my FOT email in the Spam folder. Bill Dentinger has taken full responsibility. Bob Kramer Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkrantz77 at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 11:37:40 2018 From: rkrantz77 at comcast.net (Ron KRANTZ) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 13:37:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> that's what happens when you sell your spitfire. > On August 24, 2018 at 10:34 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 12:22:16 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:22:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> That's frustrating. > > On Aug 24, 2018 at 1:37 PM, wrote: > > that's what happens when you sell your spitfire. > > > > On August 24, 2018 at 10:34 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 12:23:13 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:23:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> That's frustrating. > > On Aug 24, 2018 at 1:37 PM, wrote: > > that's what happens when you sell your spitfire. > > > > On August 24, 2018 at 10:34 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Aug 24 12:54:06 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:54:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <295D46A5-9778-41DC-8536-E4C2BF71EC60@mhc-law.com> Everyone has a 'Long Suit'...mine happens to be short. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Friday, August 24, 2018, John H. Hasty via Fot wrote: As he certainly should! Sent from my iPhone On Aug 24, 2018, at 12:58 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: I find most of my FOT email in the Spam folder. Bill Dentinger has taken full responsibility. Bob Kramer On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 10:05 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From walt at hot-tr6.com Fri Aug 24 19:50:36 2018 From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walt Hollowell) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 19:50:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup?Walt Hollowell?Albuquerque, New Mexico? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Fri Aug 24 21:26:38 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 20:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 References: <20180825024229.832B32588FFB@autox.team.net> Point your rig towards Bakersfield CA and Buttonwillow Raceway the first weekend of May! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 24, 2018, at 6:50 PM, Walt Hollowell via Fot wrote: > > > I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup? > Walt Hollowell > Albuquerque, New Mexico > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 25 04:23:14 2018 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 10:23:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] KCup in Triumph World Mag References: <1519539795.3620250.1535192594218.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... There is an article in the latest Triumph World Magazine about Kas Kastner and the Kastner Cup.? Simon Goldsworthy (Triumph World Editor) sent me an email notifying me that he used one of my photos. FYI... Shawn Frank North American Triumphs - Owner Des Moines Concours d'Elegance - Recruiter Continued Legacy - Owner Spitfire & GT6 Magazine - Editor Iowa British Car Club FOT/VTR#94692/NASS#746 Drive Away Cancer Iowa - Driver 515-339-4228 '63 Triumph Spitfire4 (MK1) "Lucy" '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sat Aug 25 08:34:18 2018 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 10:34:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 References: <20180825024229.832B32588FFB@autox.team.net> Is it 1st weekend in May- I thought I read something about mid June? (May would be great... If I can work out not missing any symphony gigs, I?m better off). When will an ?official? word go out? It?s time for a west coast road trip! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY Sent from my iPad > On Aug 24, 2018, at 11:26 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Point your rig towards Bakersfield CA and Buttonwillow Raceway the first weekend of May! > > Brad Eells > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 24, 2018, at 6:50 PM, Walt Hollowell via Fot wrote: >> >> >> I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup? >> Walt Hollowell >> Albuquerque, New Mexico >> >> >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Sat Aug 25 11:20:58 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 12:20:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sat Aug 25 12:19:43 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 13:19:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: Paul, Running the engine at 2000 to 3000 rpm and just leaving it there for 20 minutes is usually suggested as the right way to break in a new flat-tappet cam and tappets but my understanding is that this will not to much for your rings. The following applies only to piston ring break-in and is not specific to TR engines (and I?m certainly open to hearing scientific reasons why this might be incorrect). I do lots of throttle on/throttle off to load the piston rings in both directions, so to speak, so that means a few laps of rather jerky driving. If the roughness profile of the cylinder walls was done properly it shouldn't take more than a few laps to bed the rings. It would probably be a good idea to change the oil and filter after the first hard track session. Duncan > On Aug 25, 2018, at 12:20 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > FOT, > > Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. > > We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. > > 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? > > 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? > > a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? > b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? > c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? > > Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. > > We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. > > Thank you for considering my questions, > > Paul Ricco > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > From kknight at klaenv.com Sat Aug 25 12:22:08 2018 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 11:22:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 Good Afternoon All; The 2019 Kastner Cup will be held at Buttonwillow Raceway Park (Outside Bakersfield, CA) early in May of next year. We have not made any official announcements about the race as the track does not confirm its 2019 racing calendar until late August (likely in the next week). When I get the official word our date is solid from VARA, the sanctioning race club, that information will be broadcast to FOT. So you all know WHERE and the WHEN will be confirmed soon. It is going to be a great event and well worth whatever tow you have to make to get to this event. So stay tuned and enjoy your fall racing. More to come soon! Cheers to All Ken Knight 2019 Kastner Cup Event Chair -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 25 13:50:31 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 19:50:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: Hi Paul.? When I last raced in the late 1990's, I was building 180 HP motors, taking advantage of all the SCCA rules would allow.? I was using up to 7,000 PRM's consistently.? Since I had to use a stock crank, I was rebuilding engines after 4 race weekends.? Therefore, my break in procedure may be different than someone who is building an engine to last a season or more. When I showed up at the track with a brand new engine, it would have run only a few minutes in the garage, to make sure the oil pressure was OK, check for leaks, and get the timing set for the crankshaft trigger ignition, as well as the electronic distributor.? I would run the first session on the track, starting out using up to 5,000 RPM's, than gradually increasing the red line, until I was up to 7,000 RPM's by the end of the session.? I used Valvoline 20W50 VR-1 Racing Oil, with a bit of Molebdomen (sp?) Disulfide (Moly) additive.? At the end of the session, I considered my engine broken in.? I didn't change the oil until after the race weekend. I used cast iron (soft) middle and oil control rings, so they would bed in quickly.? Because I was using pop-up pistons, which created an unusual flame pattern, I used a chrome-moly (hard) top ring.? After the session, the engine was fully broken in, and additional hours would only show barely perceptible increases in performance as the rings further bedded in.? If you are building less radical engines, intended to run many weekends before rebuilds, you may want to follow more extensive break in periods.? In my case, I never found any need to. And that's my experience.? Good luck. Jack Wheeler1990 SCCA EP Champion TR-4 On Saturday, August 25, 2018, 1:38:20 PM EDT, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines.? The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1.? We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in.? They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s.? How long and how many RPM?s are people running them? for? 2.? How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? ??? a.? Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? ??? b.? Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? ??? c.? Something else?? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do.? We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sat Aug 25 15:33:25 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 17:33:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentionalrepeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque andfollow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle runningsubjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normaloperation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT,Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend.We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well.1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for?2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with?Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules.We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully.Thank you for considering my questions,Paul Ricco_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Aug 25 15:48:53 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 16:48:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 References: <20180825024229.832B32588FFB@autox.team.net> <649193A0-31FC-4CE4-BE1C-9035F83943E2@aol.com> Ken Knight will be putting out the specifics. Shortly. It will be in May, but VARA needs to get ink on paper. This Kastner Cup has the possibility of something very special. Perhaps even historical. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Aug 25, 2018, at 9:34 AM, Rick McCurdy via Fot wrote: > > Is it 1st weekend in May- I thought I read something about mid June? (May would be great... If I can work out not missing any symphony gigs, I?m better off). > When will an ?official? word go out? It?s time for a west coast road trip! > > Rick McCurdy > Newburgh, NY > > > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Aug 24, 2018, at 11:26 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >> >> Point your rig towards Bakersfield CA and Buttonwillow Raceway the first weekend of May! >> >> Brad Eells >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 24, 2018, at 6:50 PM, Walt Hollowell via Fot wrote: >>> >>> >>> I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup? >>> Walt Hollowell >>> Albuquerque, New Mexico >>> >>> >>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Sat Aug 25 16:21:23 2018 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 18:21:23 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Red of Blue Electric Fuel Pump Question for the masses ... what is the flow rate and pressure for the Purolator blue pump ( part number 42 S ) ?? I know the red pump ( part number 12 S ) is rated at 35 gph / 4 - 7 psi . This would be used on my race spit. Thanks in advance, Bob T. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Aug 26 02:20:28 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 10:20:28 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: <16573018b88-1ebb-af12@webjas-vac012.srv.aolmail.net> Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: paulricco at att.net, "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Th e s hort version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentional repeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque and follow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle running subjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normal operation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sun Aug 26 05:50:13 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 07:50:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Yes there is some degree of truth in that, it's a balance... Glen -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: fubog1 Cc: fot Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2018 4:20 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: paulricco at att.net, "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentionalrepeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque andfollow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle runningsubjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normaloperation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT,Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend.We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well.1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for?2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with?Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules.We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully.Thank you for considering my questions,Paul Ricco_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rocky at spitfire4.com Sun Aug 26 15:57:59 2018 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 16:57:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Red of Blue Electric Fuel Pump References: <165732d7432-1eba-a52d@webjas-vaa180.srv.aolmail.net> I put in Holley Blues (7 psi) and it just did not seem to work as well, even though at the carb I only need about 2? psi. So I put in Reds (15 psi) and they work fine. Fuel pumps are in the trunk at the cell (2 of them because I have 2 pickups in the cell, one at each rear corner). Then I have the Holley regulator up[ front just before the carbs, also a fuel pressure gauge ? more than 2? psi would overpower the SU carbs. --Rocky Entriken HP Spitfire Mk. I From: Bob Totten via Fot Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2018 5:21 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Red of Blue Electric Fuel Pump Question for the masses ... what is the flow rate and pressure for the Purolator blue pump ( part number 42 S ) ?? I know the red pump ( part number 12 S ) is rated at 35 gph / 4 - 7 psi . This would be used on my race spit. Thanks in advance, Bob T. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Aug 27 05:53:21 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 13:53:21 +0200 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: Hi, I never used braking in oil on a new engine. I put in 10w60 synthetic oil and go racing. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Paul Ricco via Fot Gesendet: Samstag, 25. August 2018 19:21 An: Friends of Triumph Betreff: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Aug 27 06:05:03 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 14:05:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: <16573018b88-1ebb-af12@webjas-vac012.srv.aolmail.net> <973963657.986204829.1535271628399.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> My piston manufacturer says about braking in: Put the pistons in, and then drive the car to pole. Means: Reckless driving from the first second. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 26. August 2018 10:20 An: fubog1 Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel _____ Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentional repeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque and follow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle running subjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normal operation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Aug 27 09:44:58 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 11:44:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Amici... When I was a teenager, I remember two adults discussing this engine break-in issue concerning for a new street car. One insisted it was critical to go no faster than 35 mph for the first 1,800 miles, then go no faster than 50 mph until 2,500 miles. The other said that's the way you make your car into a 'sheepish dog'. He said if you wanted the car to be quick and responsive, you needed to give it some angry miles per hour early on. He swore the most important thing was NOT driving it at one speed for any length of time. Go fast, then slow, go fast then slow. I just listened. You should hear what they said about handling your Honeymoon. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: fot at autox. team. net Sent: Mon, Aug 27, 2018 6:30 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions My piston manufacturer says about braking in: Put the pistons in, and then drive the car to pole. Means: Reckless driving from the first second. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 26. August 2018 10:20 An: fubog1 Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: paulricco at att.net, "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentional repeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque and follow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle running subjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normal operation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spiwakd at aol.com Mon Aug 27 18:36:02 2018 From: spiwakd at aol.com (spiwakd at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:36:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Aug 27 23:17:38 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 00:17:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net> I used about 25 psi cold (26 front / 24 rear).? Factory recommends a bit less. Regards, Tony Drews On 8/27/2018 7:36 PM, Dave Spiwak via Fot wrote: > I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new > Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time > to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I > haven't used these before and don't know where to start > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 00:38:21 2018 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (vintagenick42) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 23:38:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure DaveWith my setup temps looked good with 26 and 26.5 (f&r).BUT...they were a bit smaller in diameter than the same size yokos that I had been runnin. Enough smaller that it really needed a rear gear change as i ran out of revs in many places and used quite a bit more revs than the motor enjoyed! Have funNick in nor cal Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Dave Spiwak via Fot Date: 8/27/18 5:36 PM (GMT-08:00) To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Tue Aug 28 03:11:32 2018 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 09:11:32 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net>, <20180828090016.1FB14258960C@autox.team.net> You could also check in with Hoosier. They usually have a pretty good idea of where to start. Scott (B.) Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 Dave With my setup temps looked good with 26 and 26.5 (f&r). BUT...they were a bit smaller in diameter than the same size yokos that I had been runnin. Enough smaller that it really needed a rear gear change as i ran out of revs in many places and used quite a bit more revs than the motor enjoyed! Have fun Nick in nor cal Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dave Spiwak via Fot Date: 8/27/18 5:36 PM (GMT-08:00) To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Aug 28 04:55:48 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 12:55:48 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net> I?ve never tested Speedsters, so my suggestion might be not fitting. With Yokohama A048 I use 30 psi cold. That gives the best lap time. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Dave Spiwak via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 28. August 2018 02:36 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Aug 28 05:32:07 2018 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 07:32:07 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net> <20180828090016.1FB14258960C@autox.team.net> <663FED4D2792483A.0c20bb96-5436-4abf-8e59-c99cbd4809e4@mail.outlook.com> Dave: With A locked rear, weight balance within 2% at each wheel and speedsters, I try to end up with 30 PSI at each wheel, hot. That usually means starting at 23 front, 25 rear. Your conditions and style may be optimal at another point. Last I checked, Hoosier recommends 10 psi for every ton of car weight. I find that a bit low. Hope to see you there! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 28, 2018, at 5:11 AM, Barr, Scott via Fot wrote: > > You could also check in with Hoosier. They usually have a pretty good idea of where to start. > > Scott (B.) > > > > Scott Barr > McCarty Law LLP > (920) 257-2233 > > > > > > Dave > With my setup temps looked good with 26 and 26.5 (f&r). > BUT...they were a bit smaller in diameter than the same size yokos that I had been runnin. Enough smaller that it really needed a rear gear change as i ran out of revs in many places and used quite a bit more revs than the motor enjoyed! > > Have fun > Nick in nor cal > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dave Spiwak via Fot > Date: 8/27/18 5:36 PM (GMT-08:00) > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure > > I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From brakey6666 at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 11:14:30 2018 From: brakey6666 at gmail.com (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 13:14:30 -0400 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma SOLVED Thanks for those that provided suggestions to the A-Type overdrive problem I had back in the beginning of August. After a complete rebuild of the trans and overdrive the overdrive slipped under load but was fine with a light load on it. A pressure test revealed a low pump pressure of ~325 psi. I tore down the unit and checked for problems and replaced the pump assembly with a new one and it works great now. Thanks again Glenn Franco 74 TR6, 68 TR250. 47 MGTC, 73 BMW 2002 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 16:39:56 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 22:39:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma SOLVED References: Thanks for sharing.? The more information we have the better prepared we will be to maintain these beasts well into the future. Jack On Tuesday, August 28, 2018, 4:20:41 PM EDT, Glenn Franco via Fot wrote: Thanks for those that provided suggestions to the A-Type overdrive problem I had back in the beginning of August.After a complete rebuild of the trans and overdrive the overdrive slipped under load but was fine with a light load on it.A pressure test revealed a low pump pressure of ~325 psi.I tore down the unit and checked for problems and replaced the pump assembly with a new one and it works great now. Thanks againGlenn Franco74 TR6, 68 TR250. 47 MGTC, 73 BMW 2002_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 13:39:45 2018 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 14:39:45 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey Mark. Not sure of the specific axle your talking about but if it's similar to my old jeep, it should be easy enough to make a shrink fit collar to retain the axle. Make a sleeve which is .001 / inch of diameter smaller than the axle. So 1.25 x.001= .00125 dia. smaller in the case of a 1.25 dia. axle. Heat it up and put it on. When it cools , it will not come off... If you do need to remove it you can probably get it off by reheating. The reheating end of things can be a little iffee.. Most decent machine shops can make an accurate sleeve. P.J. On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 1:33 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > Need some info and help!! > > > > Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it > in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the > axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the > press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll > come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate > comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake > backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold > replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial > bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they > got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a > press on retainer ring in a zillion years. > > > > So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what > the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and > nada. > > > > Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the > car parked that I just put a new engine in??? > > > > [image: http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] > > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/mckearn2 at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Aug 23 13:46:14 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 19:46:14 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Awesome thank you, haven?t heard a word from anyone on this and thought I might be disconnected from the site?????? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: McKearn McKearn [mailto:mckearn2 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2018 2:40 PM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net; Rick ; fubog1 Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Axles Hey Mark. Not sure of the specific axle your talking about but if it's similar to my old jeep, it should be easy enough to make a shrink fit collar to retain the axle. Make a sleeve which is .001 / inch of diameter smaller than the axle. So 1.25 x.001= .00125 dia. smaller in the case of a 1.25 dia. axle. Heat it up and put it on. When it cools , it will not come off... If you do need to remove it you can probably get it off by reheating. The reheating end of things can be a little iffee.. Most decent machine shops can make an accurate sleeve. P.J. Need some info and help!! Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image011.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: image011.png URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Thu Aug 23 19:08:59 2018 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 01:08:59 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Checkuered flag racing could probably give you good advice, parts etc. I may be converting my GT6+ to their rear axle set up for racing spitfires. Vince Need some info and help!! Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Aug 29 05:08:02 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 07:08:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note assemblers responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it isn't all "defective parts". HTH Glen problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm ; rkrantz77 ; fot ; Fubog1 Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Let me add: Standard means?.from factory Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. This is always suspicious to me. Cheers Chris Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference between tuning and standard engines. Standard ? flat Tuning ? domed. Von: pegandbobm at aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle. I check this before each rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration design. Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an additional edge radius put on the lifters. The cam lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter. Then you get into duration and how fast you can get the valve open. All the Triumph "flat" tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The rules say you must retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My question is "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has to rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the cam opening very fast. Think about that. On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot wrote: This may be true for American engines. All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light with an edge on it. So maybe this is just an American thing? Cheers Chris fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: This is well covered in many engine-building books & I've discussed it at length with several camshaft engineers over the years. It's my understanding that the lobe should have a very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet really isn't, it's very slightly convex. This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it will wear. There could also be spring pressure or lubrication issues? In any case I would discuss it with the tappet supplier before doing anything, at the least make sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with and can be reground. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? In the past we had this discussion. I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as they should be, they say. Cheers Chris Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < fot at autox.team.net>: Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam degrees, works fine. I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph paper! That will give you the lobe profile but most folks don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just advertised lift and duration. Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still OK, although there can be exceptions. Glen. -----Original Message----- From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our Kastner G3 cam for reference. Tim Murphy #317 TR4 From: Fot On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that sets it up and measures the complete profile. Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests that there may be problems, there are... Glen -----Original Message----- From: rbtr3a--- via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm Subject: [Fot] Cams How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. Ronnie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gasket.works at gte.net Wed Aug 29 10:00:40 2018 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Mordy Dunst) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 12:00:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? My Cam grinder has ground cams for me for some time. He places a very slight finish on the cam lobe and a very slight radius on tappet face .? The radius is perhaps 60"?? He wont say.? He has not changed the setup on his lifter grinding machine.? I have not had issues at all with his cam grinds nor of his re-faced lifters. So, speak to your cam grinder see what they recommend. MDunst Headgasket.com instagram; gasket.worksr 626.358.1616 T 626.628.3777 F Triple R Munitions, Inc instagram; triplermunitions 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm ; rkrantz77 ; fot ; Fubog1 Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 3:00 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Let me add: Standard means?.from factory Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. This is always suspicious to me. ? Cheers Chris ? Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? ? I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference between tuning and standard engines. Standard ? flat Tuning ? domed. ? ? ? Von: pegandbobm at aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? ? Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle.? I check this before each rebuild to ensure they have not flatten.? ?Pre-Trump I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> ?Bob? ? -----Original Message----- From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration design.? Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters have approximately a 60 inch radius.? I even have an additional edge radius put on the lifters.? The cam lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating the lifter.? Lift on a cam is limited by base circle radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter.? Then you get into duration and how fast you can get the valve open.? All the Triumph "flat" tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius.? The rules say you must retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock.? My question is "how flat is flat".? Rule does not say the lifter has to rotate.? If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the cam opening very fast.? Think about that. On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot wrote: This may be true for American engines. ? All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light with an edge on it. ? So maybe this is just an American thing? ? ? Cheers Chris ? fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: This is well covered in many engine-building books & I've discussed it at length with several camshaft engineers over the years. It's my understanding that the lobe should have a very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet really isn't, it's very slightly convex. This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it will wear. There could also be spring pressure or lubrication issues? In any case I would discuss it with the tappet supplier before doing anything, at the least make sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with and can be reground. ? Glen ? ? ? -----Original Message----- From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? In the past we had this discussion. I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay ? ? The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as they should be, they say. ? Cheers Chris ? Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < fot at autox.team.net>: Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam degrees, works fine. I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph paper! That will give you the lobe profile but most folks don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just advertised lift and duration. Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still OK, although there can be exceptions. ? Glen. ? ? ? ? -----Original Message----- From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. ? I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our Kastner G3 cam for reference. ? Tim Murphy #317 TR4 ? From: Fot On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams ? Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that sets it up and measures the complete profile. Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests that there may be problems, there are... ? Glen ? ? -----Original Message----- From: rbtr3a--- via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm Subject: [Fot] Cams How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. Ronnie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 16:05:43 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 17:05:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89MM piston question Do the guys running the 89MM pistons and liners need to relieve the liners to clear the intake valve, or does the extra MM make the difference? Bob Kramer On Tue, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com Thu Aug 30 14:10:44 2018 From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 16:10:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] PittRace Question Does PittRace have WiFi, specifically in the North Paddock? Russ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Wed Aug 29 05:37:47 2018 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 11:37:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] best gearbox for TR6 more... References: <42ff946f-80c0-5092-955a-9f5d6f26f6e3@pobox.com> <164b3dfa5f3-c92-cf76@webjas-vac220.srv.aolmail.net> <1229176934.7475844.1532037420166@mail.yahoo.com> <1F58DEDC-E5B8-43E6-870A-6D9659E5296D@icloud.com> My last TR4A race car ran with a TR6 close ratio box with the J type overdrive. It used 90w gear oil and shifted instantaneous. Before the toggle switch had completed it's travel, it was in overdrive. The J type is very strong and reliable and lighter than the A type. Look up Gearvendors.com. They sell a J type overdrive to go behind 3,500 hp dragsters, 30,000 lb motor homes and some of their parts will fit the Triumph J type overdrive. Barry From: Randall via Fot To: Greg Blake ; Greg Blake via Fot ; Jack Wheeler Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" ; fubog1 Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 4:29 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] best gearbox for TR6 more... If you do, be sure to check for coil bind. I shimmed mine just a little too much, so the ports would only partially open. Pressure looked fine at low rpm on the bench, but went way high in service. -- Randall On 19 July 2018 20:59:03 GMT-04:00, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: Hit send too soon. What pressure did you run on the large piston A type? ?I?ve gotMine set at 370psi and it shifts nearly instantly on the bench. Wondering if I should add another shim to get closer to 400psi.? Sent from my iPhone On Jul 19, 2018, at 4:57 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Glen.? I agree with most of your comments.? I raced a TR-4 in SCCA for 24 years, and used both close ratio, and stock ratio gearboxes with, and without overdrive.? I always used the later housings (TR-4A - TR-6) and the "A" Type overdrive, and I did all my own maintenance.? Early in my career, I always thought a straight 4 speed (without overdrive) would be more efficient for racing, due to less parasitic losses.? When close ratio gears became legal (about 1980), I thought this would be a big improvement over the overdrive option.? I had all 6 gear sets set up for my IRS car, so I could gear to use either transmission option at all the tracks I raced at. However, after years of experimenting at Road Atlanta, during The Runoffs, I concluded that using a close ratio overdrive gearbox with the 4.3 rear end gear was about 1 second per lap faster than using a straight 4 speed with the 3.7 rear end gear.? The 4.3 rear gear gave me a more usable second gear for some tight turns (like turn 7 at Atlanta) than the 3.7 rear gear.? I also tried the 4.1 rear gear with the straight 4 Speed, but the overdrive option was still faster. I did less research at other tracks, but long tracks with tight turns (like Road America) would certainly favor the overdrive option.? There may not be as much difference on short, tighter tracks.? But, numbers don't lie, and a second a lap was worth it to me, to learn about building and maintaining overdrives, with high pump pressure for quicker shifting.? And, I found them to be very reliable mechanically.? The only problems I ever had were electrical. Take it for what it's worth, but that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it! Jack On Thursday, July 19, 2018, 5:30:21 PM EDT, fubog1 via Fot wrote: In all fairness to the conversion advocates, in spite of the benefit of both intermediate gearing & the extra top gear with the O/D unit, there are some downsides to the O/D.First, it's getting hard to find good units, a lot of what I run into is junk. These have been in high demand since forever, I've bought many junk TRs just for the overdrives.As Larry pointed out, there are alternatives, ie Volvo, but then you have to mod it to suit.Unless you find a guaranteed plug-and-play TR box & O/D assembly, you'll most likely be having to go through the gearbox as well, and certainly if you're converting a standard gearbox to overdrive cuz' the mainshaft is different.That leads to another problem, parts availability for overdrive parts is a bit limited, especially some of the early A-type stuff, and as is normal these days, quality is always a big concern.Then if you have a rebuildable unit, and all of the parts, it has to be properly rebuilt, by the book.It's a fairly labor-intensive job and requires some degree of mechanical finesse. If you have to pay someone to do the entire job, the cost could easily get up there to the point where a conversion gets more attractive. There are also a few other negatives, the TR box & O/D unit may weigh more than some alternative units, there is some very slight power loss with the O/D, and some replacements may have better ratios available. Having said (typed) this, for a street car, a later TR-6 box, with the 17 tooth laygear, better 1st ratio & much-improved 2nd mainshaft gear, with a J-type on the back of it is hard to improve on.For racing, late 6 box with a set of close ratio gears & a "big piston" A-type works well. I see both side of the argument but personally I like the TRs as TRs, iff'n in doesn't say Stanpart on it, I'm not interested (grin). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Larry Young via Fot To: fot Sent: Thu, Jul 19, 2018 12:32 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] best gearbox for TR6 Yeah, Glen is right. I should have shut up. I did a cost comparison a few years ago. Someone was making a Ford 5 speed conversion also. The cost was more or less the same, but of course, it depends on how much you are going to do yourself. I have heard the Toyota boxes are getting scarce also ($550 seems like a lot). Quantum Mechanics does (or did) a turnkey A or J type overdrive. He has everything you need to convert a Volvo J-type to any of the TR series. I've helped a couple of guys do this conversion. Volvo's from the 80's are relatively unloved, so a couple years ago I could find the Volvo J-types on Ebay for $150. Of course, buying the Volvo overdrive or a Toyota 5 speed is just the tip of the iceberg. If you want a turnkey deal that you install, you're probably looking at $2500 - $3000 regardless of the route you go. If you do everything yourself, you can probably get by for half that. I've had my TR250 from new and didn't have an overdrive until 5 years ago. I did a 7,000 mile road trip in it a couple of years ago and found all 7 speeds to be useful. Even 2nd OD was nice when stuck behind an RV going up a mountain pass. Like I said, I should have kept quiet, but my point is that I think you will find the cost similar regardless of the direction you go. It really boils down to what you prefer. ?- Larry On 7/19/2018 7:43 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: I dunno larry, I got my conversion from Eaglegate, who was also from New Mexico, and it bolted in. Plug and play. Works great, shifts smoothly, and? (so far!) reliable. Me being me, at the time, '13 I think, I picked up two spare transmissions. Celica W58. For about $175 each. A friend with a wrecking yard looked them? up yesterday: around $550. No, they are not for sale! I believe a guy in Kansas City took over Eaglegate. If anyone is interested, I could look it up. Cheers, Bill On 7/18/2018 11:56 PM, Larry Young via Fot wrote: I'd rather have an A-type (or even a J) overdrive - 7 gears, easier to shift, easier to install, probably less expensive - What's not to like? Keep the wife definitely. ?- Larry On 7/14/2018 4:13 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: Is the HVDA conversion kit for the Toyota 5 speed still available since Herman?s passing? Dusty? Sent from my iPhone On Jul 12, 2018, at 8:05 PM, Bobby Whitehead via Fot wrote: My wife is trying to convince me to keep our 1971 TR6 we've owned for 26 years...mhhhh.... I told her if we did I needed an overdrive or 5th gear...what's the best conversion? Bobby Whitehead Jester's Racing _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 10:33:42 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 10:33:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <34c350871520461aa5c4c70a0e042beb@dieselperformanceparts.com> Mark, I tried sending these pics before, hope they make it this time. Is the brass looking piece in the pics what you need? Bud -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6365_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78129 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6368_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 53875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Thu Aug 30 12:20:31 2018 From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 11:20:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? I bought my 1964 Morgan +4 new in 1965. When I first took the engine apart to modify it for more power at around 16,000 miles, there were two lifters in the engine that were not rotating! They had "butterfly" wear patterns on the bottom of the lifters caused by the lifter oscillating back and forth. So this is a fault in the original production of the engine. Over the years, whenever I have taken apart what I believe to have been "virgin" engines, I have ALWAYS come across 2 or 3 lifters in each engine that have not been rotating. When they don't rotate, they eventually pit and fail, then damage the camshaft. The original cam lobes were flat, not tapered, and relied on the offset of the tappet bores in the block from the center of the cam lobes to induce rotation. It was not enough! All or our cams are ground with a taper to the lobes that matches the offset of the lifter bores in the block to the cam lobes. This means that 4 lobes have a taper in one direction and 4 lobes are tapered in the other direction. The tappets are ground with a crown to match. Since we have been doing that, all the lifters rotate consistently, and if the lifters are hard enough, we do not have excessive wear problems unless poor quality oil is used or the break in procedures and not correctly followed. Greg Solow The Engine Room Sports Car Specialists Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831 429-1800 ------- Original Message ------- >From : fubog1 via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] Sent : 8/29/2018 4:08:02 AM To : tr4racing at googlemail.com; pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net Cc : Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note assemblers responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it isn't all "defective parts". HTH Glen problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm ; rkrantz77 ; fot ; Fubog1 Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? #AOLMsgPart_1.2_51b0e82b-6923-4884-aaee-ebe3d9794a06 td{color: black;} @font-face {font-family:Helvetica; panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}.aolReplacedBody p.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody li.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_MsoNormal {margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody a:link,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlink {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody a:visited,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlinkFollowed {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody p.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody li.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_msonormal0 {mso-style-name:msonormal; mso-margin-top-alt:auto; margin-right:0cm; mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; margin-left:0cm; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage18 {mso-style-type:personal; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage21 {mso-style-type:personal-reply; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody .aolmail_MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} Let me add: Standard means?.from factory Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. This is always suspicious to me. Cheers Chris Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference between tuning and standard engines. Standard ? flat Tuning ? domed. Von: pegandbobm at aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle. I check this before each rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration design. Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an additional edge radius put on the lifters. The cam lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter. Then you get into duration and how fast you can get the valve open. All the Triumph "flat" tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The rules say you must retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My question is "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has to rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the cam opening very fast. Think about that. On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot wrote: This may be true for American engines. All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light with an edge on it. So maybe this is just an American thing? Cheers Chris fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: This is well covered in many engine-building books & I've discussed it at length with several camshaft engineers over the years. It's my understanding that the lobe should have a very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet really isn't, it's very slightly convex. This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it will wear. There could also be spring pressure or lubrication issues? In any case I would discuss it with the tappet supplier before doing anything, at the least make sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with and can be reground. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? In the past we had this discussion. I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as they should be, they say. Cheers Chris Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < fot at autox.team.net>: Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam degrees, works fine. I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph paper! That will give you the lobe profile but most folks don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just advertised lift and duration. Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still OK, although there can be exceptions. Glen. -----Original Message----- From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our Kastner G3 cam for reference. Tim Murphy #317 TR4 From: Fot On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that sets it up and measures the complete profile. Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests that there may be problems, there are... Glen -----Original Message----- From: rbtr3a--- via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm Subject: [Fot] Cams How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. Ronnie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pegandbobm at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 08:21:31 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 16:21:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I'm a too gentle driver and I'm not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans - the small track - and there I can test the car further while racing. I'm curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Aug 31 09:17:24 2018 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 10:17:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? References: Greg, Thanks for posting this. I have seen the same thing in "virgin" engines, but have not taken so many apart. I was hoping you or Glen or someone with more experience would chime in. - Larry On 8/30/2018 1:20 PM, Gregmogdoc--- via Fot wrote: > I bought my 1964 Morgan +4 new in 1965. When I first > took the engine apart to modify it for more power at > around 16,000 miles, there were two lifters in the > engine that were not rotating! They had "butterfly" > wear patterns on the bottom of the lifters caused by > the lifter oscillating back and forth. So this is a > fault in the original production of the engine. > Over the years, whenever I have taken apart what I > believe to have been "virgin" engines, I have ALWAYS > come across 2 or 3 lifters in each engine that have > not been rotating. When they don't rotate, they > eventually pit and fail, then damage the camshaft. > The original cam lobes were flat, not tapered, and > relied on the offset of the tappet bores in the block > from the center of the cam lobes to induce rotation. > It was not enough! All or our cams are ground with a > taper to the lobes that matches the offset of the > lifter bores in the block to the cam lobes. This > means that 4 lobes have a taper in one direction and > 4 lobes are tapered in the other direction. The > tappets are ground with a crown to match. Since we > have been doing that, all the lifters rotate > consistently, and if the lifters are hard enough, we > do not have excessive wear problems unless poor > quality oil is used or the break in procedures and > not correctly followed. > > > Greg Solow > The Engine Room > Sports Car Specialists > Santa Cruz, CA 95060 > 831 429-1800 > > > > ------- Original Message ------- > From : fubog1 via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] > Sent : 8/29/2018 4:08:02 AM > To : tr4racing at googlemail.com; > pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; > fot at autox.team.net > Cc : > Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. > > #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note > assemblers responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) > > > > > > > > This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it > isn't all "defective parts". > > HTH > > Glen > > > > problems came in when people used aftermarket parts > or tuning parts. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Chris Marx via Fot > > To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm > ; rkrantz77 > ; fot ; > Fubog1 > > Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > > #AOLMsgPart_1.2_51b0e82b-6923-4884-aaee-ebe3d9794a06 > td{color: black;} @font-face {font-family:Helvetica; > panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}@font-face > {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 > 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 > 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_MsoNormal {margin:0cm; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > a:link,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlink > {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > a:visited,.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_MsoHyperlinkFollowed > {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_msonormal0 {mso-style-name:msonormal; > mso-margin-top-alt:auto; margin-right:0cm; > mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; margin-left:0cm; > font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage18 > {mso-style-type:personal; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage21 > {mso-style-type:personal-reply; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > .aolmail_MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; > font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt > 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm > 70.85pt;}.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_WordSection1 > {page:WordSection1;} > > > Let me add: > > Standard means?.from factory > > Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? > > I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing > is obvious. > > In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble > with camshafts?..problems came in when people used > aftermarket parts or tuning parts. > > This is always suspicious to me. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 > > An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; > fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; > tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > I had a look around German forums and it seems to be > a difference between tuning and standard engines. > > Standard ? flat > > Tuning ? domed. > > > > > > > > Von: pegandbobm at aol.com > > Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 > > An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; > Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my > air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a > slight radius/angle. I check this before each > rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump > I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> > > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot > > To: Christian Marx via Fot ; > Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx > > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to > keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe > due to an aggressive acceleration design. Typical > American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters > have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an > additional edge radius put on the lifters. The cam > lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating > the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle > radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing > diameter. Then you get into duration and how fast > you can get the valve open. All the Triumph "flat" > tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The > rules say you must retain the same type (flat, > roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My question is > "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has > to rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across > the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you > can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the > cam opening very fast. Think about that. > > > On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot > wrote: > > > This may be true for American engines. > > > > > > > All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. > And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead > flat. No light with an edge on it. > > > > > > > > So maybe this is just an American thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers Chris > > > > > > > > fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli > 2018, 15:40: > > > > This is well covered in many engine-building books & > I've discussed it at length with several camshaft > engineers over the years. > > > > It's my understanding that the lobe should have a > very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet > really isn't, it's very slightly convex. > > > > This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it > will wear. > > > > There could also be spring pressure or lubrication > issues? > > > > In any case I would discuss it with the tappet > supplier before doing anything, at the least make > sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with > and can be reground. > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> > > To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am > > Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > In the past we had this discussion. > > > I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made > from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and > started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does > show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small > part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay > > > > > > > > > > > > The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as > they should be, they say. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < > fot at autox.team.net>: > > > Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set > of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial > indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam > degrees, works fine. > > > > I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph > paper! > > > > That will give you the lobe profile but most folks > don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just > advertised lift and duration. > > > > Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away > first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the > worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some > (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. > > > > Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still > OK, although there can be exceptions. > > > > > > > > Glen. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> > > To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> > > Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm > > Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 > crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then > plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get > a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. > > > > > > > > I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and > exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our > Kastner G3 cam for reference. > > > > > > > > Tim Murphy > > > > #317 TR4 > > > > > > > > From: Fot On Behalf Of > fubog1 via Fot > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM > > To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > > > > Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it > unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. > > > > > > You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that > will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find > someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that > sets it up and measures the complete profile. > > > > > > Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests > that there may be problems, there are... > > > > > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: rbtr3a--- via Fot > > To: fot > > Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm > > Subject: [Fot] Cams > > > > How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there > are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know > that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. > > > > Ronnie > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pegandbobm at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Fri Aug 31 11:43:07 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 19:43:07 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Fot] 89MM piston question References: Bob, It is definitely necessary to make that modification to the liners. The relieve should correspond to the shape of the combustion chambers : about 4 mm wide on a 89mm engine. Marcel Van: "fot" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 30 augustus 2018 00:05:43 Onderwerp: [Fot] 89MM piston question Do the guys running the 89MM pistons and liners need to relieve the liners to clear the intake valve, or does the extra MM make the difference? Bob Kramer On Tue, _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Aug 31 13:17:50 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 14:17:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89MM piston question References: <1722137193.1036561862.1535737387343.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> I've always used 87 MM due to the rules but everybody else seems to be using 89. The procedures are the same so It'll be the same. I blew a head gasket last time out, compression into the cooling system and blew off the bottom hose. I guess it wasn't tight enough, and scuffed two pistons before I could shut it down. Bob Kramer On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 12:43 PM, wrote: > Bob, > It is definitely necessary to make that modification to the liners. The > relieve should correspond to the shape of the combustion chambers : about 4 > mm wide on a 89mm engine. > Marcel > > ------------------------------ > *Van: *"fot" > *Cc: *"fot" > *Verzonden: *Donderdag 30 augustus 2018 00:05:43 > *Onderwerp: *[Fot] 89MM piston question > > Do the guys running the 89MM pistons and liners need to relieve the liners > to clear the intake valve, or does the extra MM make the difference? > > Bob Kramer > > On Tue, > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders. > marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Aug 31 15:36:49 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 21:36:49 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> What about the anti roll bars on the car? Are you running one on the rear? Have you tried softening the rear bar or removing it? Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Chris Marx via Fot Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 10:21:31 AM To: fot at autox. team. net Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I?m a too gentle driver and I?m not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans ? the small track ? and there I can test the car further while racing. I?m curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:00:06 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:00:06 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> The car has anti roll bars on both axles. The rear one is adjustable and currently on the softest setting. Going softer wouldn't be wise as the cornering forces are that high, that the suspension will bottoming out with no roll bar. So I'm on the softest what the car can do. 1.6 to 1.8G on cornering if things go well. Cheers Chris Von: Terry Stetler Gesendet: Freitag, 31. August 2018 23:37 An: tr4racing at googlemail.com; fot at autox. team. net Betreff: RE: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA What about the anti roll bars on the car? Are you running one on the rear? Have you tried softening the rear bar or removing it? Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _____ on behalf of Chris Marx via Fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:13:03 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:13:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> <8DBCAFE0-0BF1-4CF4-8DB4-CA2FA049B88A@gmail.com> Avon Biasply tires. Von: Brad Eells Gesendet: Samstag, 1. September 2018 00:10 An: tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA Curious what brand and model of tires you were working with? Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I?m a too gentle driver and I?m not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans ? the small track ? and there I can test the car further while racing. I?m curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:42:50 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:42:50 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? References: Camshafts with an angled lobe are maybe available in USA but totally uncommon in Europe. No camshaft grinder would angle the grinding wheel to grind 4 lobes in one direction and the 4 other lobes the other way. They are all ground parallel to the shaft. And so the tappets need to be flat to rotate with the cam lobe offset. Well, the cam is now running with the tappets I've got from Tony Garmey but they have been flat ground as the tappets showed the first gentle signs of pittings at the center. In one or two years, I report how they look. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Larry Young via Fot Gesendet: Freitag, 31. August 2018 17:17 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Greg, Thanks for posting this. I have seen the same thing in "virgin" engines, but have not taken so many apart. I was hoping you or Glen or someone with more experience would chime in. - Larry On 8/30/2018 1:20 PM, Gregmogdoc--- via Fot wrote: > I bought my 1964 Morgan +4 new in 1965. When I first took the engine > apart to modify it for more power at around 16,000 miles, there were > two lifters in the engine that were not rotating! They had > "butterfly" > wear patterns on the bottom of the lifters caused by the lifter > oscillating back and forth. So this is a fault in the original > production of the engine. > Over the years, whenever I have taken apart what I believe to have > been "virgin" engines, I have ALWAYS come across 2 or 3 lifters in > each engine that have not been rotating. When they don't rotate, they > eventually pit and fail, then damage the camshaft. > The original cam lobes were flat, not tapered, and relied on the > offset of the tappet bores in the block from the center of the cam > lobes to induce rotation. > It was not enough! All or our cams are ground with a taper to the > lobes that matches the offset of the lifter bores in the block to the > cam lobes. This means that 4 lobes have a taper in one direction and > 4 lobes are tapered in the other direction. The tappets are ground > with a crown to match. Since we have been doing that, all the lifters > rotate consistently, and if the lifters are hard enough, we do not > have excessive wear problems unless poor quality oil is used or the > break in procedures and not correctly followed. > > > Greg Solow > The Engine Room > Sports Car Specialists > Santa Cruz, CA 95060 > 831 429-1800 > > > > ------- Original Message ------- > From : fubog1 via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] > Sent : 8/29/2018 4:08:02 AM > To : tr4racing at googlemail.com; > pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net > Cc : > Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. > > #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note assemblers > responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) > > > > > > > > This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it isn't all > "defective parts". > > HTH > > Glen > > > > problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Chris Marx via Fot > > To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm > ; rkrantz77 ; fot > ; > Fubog1 > > Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > > #AOLMsgPart_1.2_51b0e82b-6923-4884-aaee-ebe3d9794a06 > td{color: black;} @font-face {font-family:Helvetica; > panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; > panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 > 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 > 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_MsoNormal {margin:0cm; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > a:link,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlink > {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > a:visited,.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_MsoHyperlinkFollowed > {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_msonormal0 {mso-style-name:msonormal; > mso-margin-top-alt:auto; margin-right:0cm; mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; > margin-left:0cm; font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage18 > {mso-style-type:personal; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage21 > {mso-style-type:personal-reply; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > .aolmail_MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; > font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; > margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} > > > Let me add: > > Standard means?.from factory > > Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? > > I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. > > In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with > camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or > tuning parts. > > This is always suspicious to me. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 > > An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; > Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference > between tuning and standard engines. > > Standard ? flat > > Tuning ? domed. > > > > > > > > Von: pegandbobm at aol.com > > Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 > > An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; > tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German > made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle. I check this > before each > rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump > I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> > > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot > > To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com > ; Christian Marx > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging > into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration > design. Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters > have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an additional edge > radius put on the lifters. The cam lobes have a slight taper side to > side for rotating the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle > radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter. Then you get > into duration and how fast you can get the valve open. All the > Triumph "flat" > tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The rules say you must > retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My > question is "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has to > rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter > and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and > accelerate the cam opening very fast. Think about that. > > > On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot > wrote: > > > This may be true for American engines. > > > > > > > All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. > And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light > with an edge on it. > > > > > > > > So maybe this is just an American thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers Chris > > > > > > > > fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: > > > > This is well covered in many engine-building books & > I've discussed it at length with several camshaft > engineers over the years. > > > > It's my understanding that the lobe should have a > very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet > really isn't, it's very slightly convex. > > > > This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it > will wear. > > > > There could also be spring pressure or lubrication > issues? > > > > In any case I would discuss it with the tappet > supplier before doing anything, at the least make > sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with > and can be reground. > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> > > To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am > > Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > In the past we had this discussion. > > > I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made > from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and > started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does > show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small > part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay > > > > > > > > > > > > The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as > they should be, they say. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < > fot at autox.team.net>: > > > Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set > of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial > indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam > degrees, works fine. > > > > I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph > paper! > > > > That will give you the lobe profile but most folks > don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just > advertised lift and duration. > > > > Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away > first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the > worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some > (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. > > > > Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still > OK, although there can be exceptions. > > > > > > > > Glen. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> > > To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> > > Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm > > Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 > crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then > plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get > a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. > > > > > > > > I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and > exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our > Kastner G3 cam for reference. > > > > > > > > Tim Murphy > > > > #317 TR4 > > > > > > > > From: Fot On Behalf Of > fubog1 via Fot > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM > > To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > > > > Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it > unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. > > > > > > You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that > will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find > someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that > sets it up and measures the complete profile. > > > > > > Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests > that there may be problems, there are... > > > > > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: rbtr3a--- via Fot > > To: fot > > Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm > > Subject: [Fot] Cams > > > > How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there > are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know > that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. > > > > Ronnie > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pegandbobm at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:44:39 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:44:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> Hi Tony, The tires aren?t capable to hold the current power properly. More wouldn?t help much: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlYQhH0oYi0 &t=211s Cheers Chris Von: Tony and Annie Garmey Gesendet: Samstag, 1. September 2018 00:41 An: tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA You need more horse power ? Sent from my iPhone Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I?m a too gentle driver and I?m not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans ? the small track ? and there I can test the car further while racing. I?m curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: