From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 06:29:16 2014
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Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2014 06:31:35 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] O/D safety switch
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just out of curiosity, what car were you driving and what was the O/D 
reduction?
Dave
On 8/31/2014 7:23 PM, dave n wrote:
> when we did tail of the dragon, it was all 2nd and 2nd od, back and 
> forth, back and forth.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 07:25:52 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 08:27:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] O/D safety switch
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72TR6, but modified (both suspension and engine) with A type OD.  I do not 
know the actual reduction, except the transmission and od were from a 
different car and I think stock.

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Porter
Sent: Monday, September 1, 2014 7:31 AM
To: dave n ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] O/D safety switch

just out of curiosity, what car were you driving and what was the O/D
reduction?
Dave
On 8/31/2014 7:23 PM, dave n wrote:
> when we did tail of the dragon, it was all 2nd and 2nd od, back and forth, 
> back and forth.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 07:29:33 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] hard starting TR4
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Had a similar problem earlier this year.  In my case it appears to be a combo of fuel with ethanol and temperature.  I've learned that ethanol has the wonderful property of absorbing water and the longer the gas sits unused the worse it gets.  Since water has a lower boiling point than gas, I was getting percolation of the fuel in the float bowls when either the engine was shutdown or idling (no air flow to cool engine compartment).  My solution, which is still in trial, is to use a fuel additive (stabil ethanol treatment) plus I insulated the float bowls with thermal tape wrap.  Not original but neither is ethanol! Also have a heat shield installed between carbs and manifold.  Results so far have been positive.

Paul Brandsema
61 TR4  CT133

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 07:42:46 2014
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Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2014 07:44:42 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <54037683.1010905@porterscustom.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] O/D safety switch
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so.. likely 23 or 28% reduction.. thanks..
On 9/1/2014 7:27 AM, dave n wrote:
> 72TR6, but modified (both suspension and engine) with A type OD.  I do 
> not know the actual reduction, except the transmission and od were 
> from a different car and I think stock.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: David Porter
> Sent: Monday, September 1, 2014 7:31 AM
> To: dave n ; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] O/D safety switch
>
> just out of curiosity, what car were you driving and what was the O/D
> reduction?
> Dave
> On 8/31/2014 7:23 PM, dave n wrote:
>> when we did tail of the dragon, it was all 2nd and 2nd od, back and 
>> forth, back and forth.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 08:03:28 2014
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 09:06:02 -0500
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Hot Start of Will Daehler's TR4
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Will Daehler,

Maybe you already have a heat shield. I don't remember.

But Triumph needed heat shields like the other British cars with carbs sitting
on exhaust manifolds.

More so now, with new fuels. And cooler fuel is always good.

And street cars need heat shields more in stop and go heat soaking traffic
than race cars do when at full throttle.

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 11:33:03 2014
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Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 13:35:36 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "Triumphs@Autox Team. Net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] OT: help from the brilliant
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On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 11:38 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:
> Return it at night... in the rain?

I realize that you're joking, but in truth, many auto rental companies
see damage claims as a profit center.  They will cheerfully let you
return the car and give you a receipt, then weeks later a charge
appears on y our credit card for $498 to repair some damage.  Often,
it can be preexisting damage that gets charged again and again.
Photos before you drive off, photos after you drive in...

Doesn't help David much...I suspect he will either have to get it
fixed, or get ready to pay rental repair rates.

I've seen some magic scratch repair products advertised, but I don't
know how effective that might be.


Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 12:28:56 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Listserv Triumph'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 11:31:08 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Hot Start of Will Daehler's TR4
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> And street cars need heat shields more in stop and go heat 
> soaking traffic
> than race cars do when at full throttle.

I can certainly vouch that my TR3 starts much easier hot with one of Joe's heat shields installed.  Installation was relatively
painless, though I did have to open up the hole for the vacuum line just a bit, so the compression nut would pass through.  Here's a
photo, in case anyone is interested:
http://tinyurl.com/k9d3jgq

I was thinking that 10 minutes was not long enough for Will's problem to be a heat issue; but on second thought that may not be
true.

Another thing that seems to help is taking the factory advice of holding the throttle partway down while cranking.  Setting the
carbs a bit on the lean side (half a flat or so) seemed to help as well.

What I still don't really understand is why the problem seems to be worse with E10.  Gasoline of course is made up of many different
chemicals, so the refining process controls the initial boiling point.  But most sources give it as well under the boiling point of
either ethanol or water.

Furthermore, the EPA defines fairly tight standards for the permissible range of initial boiling point (aka Reid Vapor Pressure), in
order to balance easy starting (hard starting engines blow a lot of pollution during the cranking process) with fuel evaporation.
The limits even vary with area and season (so winter fuel boils easier than summer fuel).

My guess is that the changes in fuel standards have much more to do with the problem than just whether there is ethanol in the mix
or not; or how much water has been absorbed.  

Of course, if the fuel has separated, it would be very hard to start, but probably harder cold than hot.  And in my limited
experiments, you'd need heavy choke to keep it running smoothly even once it is warmed up.  Ethanol has to run much richer than
gasoline, or it won't run at all.  I tried burning a gallon of "white lightning" in a TR3A once, and had to keep the carb jets down
by roughly 3/16 inch for it run smoothly hot.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 16:49:14 2014
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Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2014 18:51:18 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
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Hello List:
Have been getting miles on the '2 in between rain showers this season. 
Have a question about gearbox vibration that can really be felt in the 
gear change lever, especially when backing off the throttle. Usually 
hits around 2000-2500 rpm.
I did rebuild the box, but must admit I didn't pay too much attention to 
the top cover; just changed the 'O' rings on the ends of the shifter 
shafts.
Just wondering if the vibration is 'normal'; I can quiet it down if I 
grasp the lever and somewhat dampen the vibes.
Anything to worry about? Everything seems tight, but can't seem to track 
down what might be causing this one. Don't get it when accelerating or 
driving at a constant speed; just on backing off the throttle.
Thanks again for any insights.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Angelo

Did you get the driveshaft balanced and new u-joints? B 

Thanks
David
b
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphoneB 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 19:35:20 2014
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Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2014 19:37:11 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] part needed
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Though a dealer for Moss, they, have virtually nothing for GT6 models, 
unless it's a Spitfire part that interchanges.. so now that I own 3 of 
these cars, the plan is to make one nice car. To that end I require the 
left most dash trim. Pretty short 8-10 curvy inches I guess. Covered in 
black vinyl over a bit of foam.
  Anyone out there have a spare that they have no use for or a 
recommendation for who sells these odd bits?
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  1 21:12:18 2014
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From: Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 20:14:20 -0700
References: <54051F47.1030106@porterscustom.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] part needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you try spit bits in Lincoln CA?

www.spitbits.com

Greg


On Sep 1, 2014, at 6:37 PM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:

> Though a dealer for Moss, they, have virtually nothing for GT6 models,
unless it's a Spitfire part that interchanges.. so now that I own 3 of these
cars, the plan is to make one nice car. To that end I require the left most
dash trim. Pretty short 8-10 curvy inches I guess. Covered in black vinyl over
a bit of foam.
> Anyone out there have a spare that they have no use for or a recommendation
for who sells these odd bits?
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 04:38:26 2014
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To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] part needed
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No joy with Spitbits, thought they did have a couple other trim item I 
needed... I'll look at the other site anon.. I suspect I'll need to go 
overseas for the obscure items.. sigh..
Dave
On 9/1/2014 7:37 PM, David Porter wrote:
> Though a dealer for Moss, they, have virtually nothing for GT6 models, 
> unless it's a Spitfire part that interchanges.. so now that I own 3 of 
> these cars, the plan is to make one nice car. To that end I require 
> the left most dash trim. Pretty short 8-10 curvy inches I guess. 
> Covered in black vinyl over a bit of foam.
>  Anyone out there have a spare that they have no use for or a 
> recommendation for who sells these odd bits?

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 09:32:05 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2014 10:31:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a low mileage 63 buick which has been in the family since my
grandfather bought it from James Roche, who eventually became CEO of GM, in
1963.  (and I have the paperwork to prove it).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Roche_(General_Motors)

www.ranteer.com/davescars/buick

it gets driven maybe 100 miles per year; started and run for a few minutes
every other week or so.

it lives in an underground parking garage.

how often should I change the oil?  typically it gets changed every year or
so.

I am wondering if I am wasting my money putting synthetic in it.  I do believe
I should be sure that the oil I use has zddp.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 11:17:27 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'dave n'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2014 10:19:35 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/Gw2rQhcMLPOoxSaKaZqPNPc9hegADQrog
Subject: Re: [TR] somewhat off topic
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> started and run for 
> a few minutes
> every other week or so.

That's a terrible thing to do to an old engine.  It would be kinder to put the battery on a float charger and not start the engine
unless you are going to drive far enough to get the oil hot.

> how often should I change the oil?  typically it gets changed 
> every year or so.

I believe GM's recommendation was 6 months.

> I am wondering if I am wasting my money putting synthetic in it.

Perhaps so, but that's what I would do.

>  I do believe I should be sure that the oil I use has zddp.

Contrary to popular opinion, all quality motor oils have ZDDP in them.  The debate is all about the reduced levels in the most
recent "emission" oils.  ZDDP only gets consumed when thee is actual metal-to-metal contact (the oil film gets squeezed out).  So,
since you are hitting the age limit instead of the mileage limit, I don't see any reason to use an old fashioned oil with elevated
ZDDP.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 14:51:21 2014
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Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2014 14:53:09 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <54051F47.1030106@porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] part needed
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Scott Harper in Warren, Ohio had all the little trim bits I needed.. 
thanks for the recommendations.. I'm compiling a list..;-) he's at 330 
392 7176
On 9/1/2014 7:37 PM, David Porter wrote:
> Though a dealer for Moss, they, have virtually nothing for GT6 models, 
> unless it's a Spitfire part that interchanges.. so now that I own 3 of 
> these cars, the plan is to make one nice car. To that end I require 
> the left most dash trim. Pretty short 8-10 curvy inches I guess. 
> Covered in black vinyl over a bit of foam.
>  Anyone out there have a spare that they have no use for or a 
> recommendation for who sells these odd bits?

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2014 23:00:37 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: fuel line "nuts"
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Subject: [TR] fuel line "nuts"
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List,
B 
Any known source of the fuel line nuts that connect the 1/4" line and 5/16"
line to the TR3 fuel pump?
B 
Ed Woods

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 17:20:43 2014
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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] fuel line "nuts"
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---- fogbro1@comcast.net wrote: 
> List,
> B 
> Any known source of the fuel line nuts that connect the 1/4" line and 5/16"
> line to the TR3 fuel pump?

I was able to find them at my FLAPS.  They've got one of those "wall of drawers" things with all sorts of little fittings.  You'll have to measure the threads though, as I don't recall what they were offhand.

Same problem as the factory nuts, though.  They won't reach deep enough to crush a modern style compression sleeve.  And beware of overtightening, as it's easy to crack the pump housing.

Randall

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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 10:14:18 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Gathering of British Motorcars
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List - Please share with anyone in Southern New England. Thanks.

Alex Thomson    

Connecticut Triumph Register

 

 

34th ANNUAL BRITISH MOTORCAR GATHERING AND PICNIC

Hosted by the Connecticut Triumph Register

on

Sunday, September 7th, 2014

9:30AM - 3PM

at

Wickham Park, Manchester, CT

 

 

Venue

The Connecticut Triumph Register invites anyone with a British motorcar of
any make, model, and condition to join in.  This year's gathering is low
key- no classes, voting or awards- no pressure!  Take your car out for a
drive and stop in for a while. Meet and mingle with other Triumph and
British vehicle owners.  Bring your own picnic or purchase food and beverage
provided by BS Troop 28 of Hebron. CTR regalia will be available for
purchase.   

 

Wickham Park, with 250 acres of gardens, woodlands, ponds, and attractions
including an aviary, is a beautiful venue for this autumn event. Signs
within the park will direct participants to the field parking area. There is
no registration fee for the event.  There is a park entrance fee of $5 per
car.

 

Directions

Wickham Park is located at 1329 West Middle Turnpike in Manchester, CT and
is easily accessible from Interstate 84 (exit 60).

 

Information

Go to  <http://www.CTriumph.com> www.CTriumph.com  for information, updates,
and weather-related announcements day of event. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 14:29:29 2014
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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 20:32:04 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 20:32:04 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
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> Anything to worry about? Everything seems tight, but can't seem to track 
> down what might be causing this one. Don't get it when accelerating or 
> driving at a constant speed; just on backing off the throttle.

Probably nothing to worry about.  The factory tried several times to address vibration in the gear lever, apparently without a lot of success.  There is a service bulletin (which I don't seem to have handy, will try to post tonight) about putting a piece of rubber hose on the shift lever inside the spring.  They also tried adding a brace (later on, TR4A maybe) to the top cover, and even a rubber-mounted counterweight on some models.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 17:22:55 2014
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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 16:24:58 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

...They also tried adding a brace (later on, TR4A maybe) to the top cover,
> and even a rubber-mounted counterweight on some models.
>

Here's the brace that came on my TR4, it also has the heavy weight strapped
to the tailshaft.

http://goo.gl/LJUXLv

This was 1964 and I guess (as Randall explains) they were trying everything
they could think of.  Maybe it works -- I don't notice the vibration you
describe.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 23:52:54 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 22:55:28 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/HtiGtMXOFdX1mQYCOmGHJbjltMwATjMYA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
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> There is a service bulletin (which 
> I don't seem to have handy, will try to post tonight) about 
> putting a piece of rubber hose on the shift lever inside the 
> spring.

Found it, finally.
http://goo.gl/Hpn6Rb

>  They also tried adding a brace (later on, TR4A 
> maybe) to the top cover, and even a rubber-mounted 
> counterweight on some models.

According to the TR4 SPC, the brace was all TR4 (although there were two different versions); the counterweight only gearbox CT17815
through CT35719.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 16:11:56 2014
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From: "D&BLambert" <dblambert@cox.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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 <mtvt1o01c0NyJgq01tvvsT>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:11:31 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've also been battling the vibrating/rattling gearshift lever on my TR3A
for some time now.  A few years ago (maybe 20K miles) I replaced the
driveshaft u-joints and had the shaft balanced.  Some months ago I got a
copy of the Service Bulletin (mine is a little different than the one Randal
posted) concerning gearshift rattles and performed the recommendations:  I
enlarged the trapezoid hole in the lever cap, and also tried the short piece
of rubber tubing on the lever, neither of which made a bit of difference,
except for making it much more difficult to shift into reverse.  I've
machined some shims/buffers out of Delrin for under the cap to prevent metal
to metal contact in that area.  No luck.  I tried a stiffer/weaker gear
lever spring.  No difference.  I tried hollowing out the gearshift knob and
epoxying in a metal slug for dampening, again no luck.  On that note, I have
tried at least 4 different gear shift knobs (including an original hard
rubber one) with no change in the vibration.  The vibration and resultant
chatter/rattle is much more sever when accelerating.  I'm now into the habit
of steering with one hand and holding the gear lever with the other to
somewhat dampen the rattle.  I'm kind of out of ideas, so I am following
this thread closely.  Anyone have any other ideas?  Is the torpedo-shaped
counter weight available anywhere?  Does it really do anything? Couldn't I
just make one out of a slug of steel and fab a bracket of some sort, or does
it have to be a certain weight to cancel a specific harmonic?  I dunno....
Any suggestions?  Perhaps I need to revisit the driveshaft/u-joints?
Thanks for wading through this.
Dennis

> 
> > There is a service bulletin (which
> > I don't seem to have handy, will try to post tonight) about
> > putting a piece of rubber hose on the shift lever inside the
> > spring.
> 
> Found it, finally.
> http://goo.gl/Hpn6Rb
> 
> >  They also tried adding a brace (later on, TR4A
> > maybe) to the top cover, and even a rubber-mounted
> > counterweight on some models.
> 
> According to the TR4 SPC, the brace was all TR4 (although there were two
> different versions); the counterweight only gearbox CT17815
> through CT35719.
> 
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 17:48:14 2014
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Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2014 17:50:05 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: D&BLambert <dblambert@cox.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <20140903203204.0WRGB.99020.root@cdptpa-web11>
 <mtvt1o01c0NyJgq01tvvsT> <5CB60884FBBF42389D94644E1A0ADD37@Lambert1>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It sounds to me like it's time to open the gear box and check the needle 
bearings on the counter shaft and the ball bearings on the main shaft.. 
also the side wear on the shifter forks. They are bronze (like) and new 
brass/bronze welding rod can be tinned on to renew spacing.. dave
On 9/4/2014 4:11 PM, D&B Lambert wrote:
> I've also been battling the vibrating/rattling gearshift lever on my TR3A
> for some time now.  A few years ago (maybe 20K miles) I replaced the
> driveshaft u-joints and had the shaft balanced.  Some months ago I got a
> copy of the Service Bulletin (mine is a little different than the one Randal
> posted) concerning gearshift rattles and performed the recommendations:  I
> enlarged the trapezoid hole in the lever cap, and also tried the short piece
> of rubber tubing on the lever, neither of which made a bit of difference,
> except for making it much more difficult to shift into reverse.  I've
> machined some shims/buffers out of Delrin for under the cap to prevent metal
> to metal contact in that area.  No luck.  I tried a stiffer/weaker gear
> lever spring.  No difference.  I tried hollowing out the gearshift knob and
> epoxying in a metal slug for dampening, again no luck.  On that note, I have
> tried at least 4 different gear shift knobs (including an original hard
> rubber one) with no change in the vibration.  The vibration and resultant
> chatter/rattle is much more sever when accelerating.  I'm now into the habit
> of steering with one hand and holding the gear lever with the other to
> somewhat dampen the rattle.  I'm kind of out of ideas, so I am following
> this thread closely.  Anyone have any other ideas?  Is the torpedo-shaped
> counter weight available anywhere?  Does it really do anything? Couldn't I
> just make one out of a slug of steel and fab a bracket of some sort, or does
> it have to be a certain weight to cancel a specific harmonic?  I dunno....
> Any suggestions?  Perhaps I need to revisit the driveshaft/u-joints?
> Thanks for wading through this.
> Dennis
>
>>> There is a service bulletin (which
>>> I don't seem to have handy, will try to post tonight) about
>>> putting a piece of rubber hose on the shift lever inside the
>>> spring.
>> Found it, finally.
>> http://goo.gl/Hpn6Rb
>>
>>>   They also tried adding a brace (later on, TR4A
>>> maybe) to the top cover, and even a rubber-mounted
>>> counterweight on some models.
>> According to the TR4 SPC, the brace was all TR4 (although there were two
>> different versions); the counterweight only gearbox CT17815
>> through CT35719.
>>
>> Randall
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <D8BA79B9-2A5C-4172-A072-A374EE7D53E0@verizon.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 17:26:33 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net> List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stag parts needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dean,
I would be interested. I have an automatic.
BTW I find most US atag owners join the stag digest. or trumphstag.net

Regards, Sujit


On Sat, Aug 30, 2014 at 7:04 AM, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net> wrote:

> I am sure this is a strange request for STAG parts. I need a
> block with main caps and crankshaft. Nothing else, no rods/pistons,
> heads, etc. They also don't need to be useable parts. Can have bad
> bores, crank journals, broken. Also need flywheel or flex plate. Adapter
> plates to transmission manual and automatic.
>
> I am working on a plan to install a 5 speed gearbox in a Stag and need
> these parts for measuring and to mock up the fitting. Would like to do
> a 4 speed conversion first and then tackle a conversion of an automatic.
>
> If you have anything connect me direct and we will work out something.
>
> Would also like to know if there are any Stag owners that would be
> interested in such a package if I can keep the cost reasonable.
>
> Dean T.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag@gmail.com
>



-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 17:30:47 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail lights?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

for LBCs?
Regards, Sujit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 18:44:05 2014
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Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2014 20:46:36 -0400
From: Thomas Boggiano <tboggiano@gmail.com>
To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>, Triumphs
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and
 tail lights?
References: <CANLCLaE0h2ESzWpnxNtag_ndwXmTOE1vhs64GmaOsvek3Eu14A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail
 lights?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used http://www.classicautoleds.com/
When I changed mine over

Tom

On 9/4/14, 8:30 PM, "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag@gmail.com> wrote:

>for LBCs?
>Regards, Sujit
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 19:02:44 2014
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Sujit Roy'" <triumphstag@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANLCLaE0h2ESzWpnxNtag_ndwXmTOE1vhs64GmaOsvek3Eu14A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 21:05:16 -0400
Thread-Index: AQLE90xM8u9zd+uISs2eazLjr4EHpJoHW7xg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail
 lights?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Try http://www.litezupp.com/  Simply purchasing bubble packed items at a
chain auto parts store doesn't always work that well.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit
Roy
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 8:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail lights?

for LBCs?
Regards, Sujit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 20:47:47 2014
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'D&BLambert'" <dblambert@cox.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20140903203204.0WRGB.99020.root@cdptpa-web11>
 <mtvt1o01c0NyJgq01tvvsT> <5CB60884FBBF42389D94644E1A0ADD37@Lambert1>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 19:49:39 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmmm... I have the HVDA conversion and I get the rattle, so not sure if the
pear shaped weight does much good. The ball end of shifter shaft has a
little ball and spring in it that's, as I understand it, put there to reduce
the rattles. Mine doesn't do it all the time, mostly when just cruising at
constant speed. It's annoying now that I've got most of the other 100+
rattles out.

Johnnie
'67 TR4A IRS

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> D&BLambert
> Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 3:12 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
> 
> I've also been battling the vibrating/rattling gearshift lever on my TR3A
for some
> time now.  A few years ago (maybe 20K miles) I replaced the driveshaft
u-joints
> and had the shaft balanced.  Some months ago I got a copy of the Service
Bulletin
> (mine is a little different than the one Randal
> posted) concerning gearshift rattles and performed the recommendations:  I
> enlarged the trapezoid hole in the lever cap, and also tried the short
piece of rubber
> tubing on the lever, neither of which made a bit of difference, except for
making it
> much more difficult to shift into reverse.  I've machined some
shims/buffers out of
> Delrin for under the cap to prevent metal to metal contact in that area.
No luck.  I
> tried a stiffer/weaker gear lever spring.  No difference.  I tried
hollowing out the
> gearshift knob and epoxying in a metal slug for dampening, again no luck.
On that
> note, I have tried at least 4 different gear shift knobs (including an
original hard
> rubber one) with no change in the vibration.  The vibration and resultant
> chatter/rattle is much more sever when accelerating.  I'm now into the
habit of
> steering with one hand and holding the gear lever with the other to
somewhat
> dampen the rattle.  I'm kind of out of ideas, so I am following this
thread closely.
> Anyone have any other ideas?  Is the torpedo-shaped counter weight
available
> anywhere?  Does it really do anything? Couldn't I just make one out of a
slug of
> steel and fab a bracket of some sort, or does it have to be a certain
weight to
> cancel a specific harmonic?  I dunno....
> Any suggestions?  Perhaps I need to revisit the driveshaft/u-joints?
> Thanks for wading through this.
> Dennis
> 
> >
> > > There is a service bulletin (which
> > > I don't seem to have handy, will try to post tonight) about putting
> > > a piece of rubber hose on the shift lever inside the spring.
> >
> > Found it, finally.
> > http://goo.gl/Hpn6Rb
> >
> > >  They also tried adding a brace (later on, TR4A
> > > maybe) to the top cover, and even a rubber-mounted counterweight on
> > > some models.
> >
> > According to the TR4 SPC, the brace was all TR4 (although there were
> > two different versions); the counterweight only gearbox CT17815
> > through CT35719.
> >
> > Randall
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 22:07:11 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANLCLaE0h2ESzWpnxNtag_ndwXmTOE1vhs64GmaOsvek3Eu14A@mail.gmail.com>
 <003801cfc8a5$746997f0$5d3cc7d0$@charter.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 23:09:26 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail
 lights?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

+1

-----Original Message----- 
From: Alex&Janet Thomson
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 8:05 PM
To: 'Sujit Roy' ; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail 
lights?

Try http://www.litezupp.com/  Simply purchasing bubble packed items at a
chain auto parts store doesn't always work that well.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit
Roy
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 8:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Any recommendations on where to get LED brake and tail lights?

for LBCs?
Regards, Sujit 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 09:43:01 2014
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 09:34:10 -0600
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
 s=q20140121; t=1409931252;
 bh=azZ7JtVLv5NALI2cwQ38Vf1/GGnNPzGbk9zHnMxNcqg=;
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Subject: [TR] Off to VTR
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Got the wheel bearings checked, the manifold nuts tightened, and topped off
the carb dampers, so its off to VTR 2014 in Dobson, NC. Looks like around
3200 miles to there and back to Denver. Should be fun. Brad Kahler and I are
going to caravan on Tuesday from his house in Kentucky. See you all in NC.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 10:44:22 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 09:46:27 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Removing TR4 Gearbox Filler Plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings. Please forgive the newbie mechanical question, but Im having a
devil of a time removing the gearbox filler plug on my TR4. I just cant get
enough purchase with my square wrench. Every time I try to turn it, it slips
off. Please dont tell me I have to remove go in from the top!

Thanks.

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 10:02:07 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing TR4 Gearbox Filler Plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff -

Are you using one of these?
http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Large/386-190_1.jpg

Or an 8-point 7/16" socket?

Either of those are pretty good, an open end wrench is not so good.

if you are using one of the good wrenches and the plug is just too
knackered to remove -- I recall some have drilled thru the plug sideway to
insert a metal shaft to lever it loose.

Geo


On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 9:46 AM, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote:

> Greetings. Please forgive the newbie mechanical question, but I m having a
> devil of a time removing the gearbox filler plug on my TR4. I just can t
> get
> enough purchase with my square wrench. Every time I try to turn it, it
> slips
> off. Please don t tell me I have to remove go in from the top!
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Jeff
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 12:08:29 -0500
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <1B5B68C7-C93A-4843-A84C-326737A7D22C@icloud.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing TR4 Gearbox Filler Plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You "just" need more leverage.  Those seem much easier to tighten 
than to loosen.  If you can slip a piece of tubing over the wrench to 
make it longer, that might do the trick.  Or if you have a crescent 
wrench that's longer than the square end wrench, that may work to get 
it to move.  Of course, make sure you're really turning in the 
"loosen" direction or it makes things worse.  :)

BTDT - good luck!

Tony Drews

At 11:46 AM 9/5/2014, Jeffrey Gayton wrote:
>Greetings. Please forgive the newbie mechanical question, but Im having a
>devil of a time removing the gearbox filler plug on my TR4. I just cant get
>enough purchase with my square wrench. Every time I try to turn it, it slips
>off. Please dont tell me I have to remove go in from the top!
>
>Thanks.
>
>-- Jeff
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 11:46:23 2014
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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 12:48:30 -0500
From: Dean Mericas <dmericas@austin.rr.com>
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To: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.630.1409936758.2012.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - gearshift vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW, I found a dampening weight on eBay some years ago and installed it 
on my TR4.  It may have dampened the rattle a little, but it still makes 
the noise when accelerating.

Dean
1965 TR4

On 9/4/2014 4:11 PM, D&B Lambert wrote:
>> >I've also been battling the vibrating/rattling gearshift lever on my TR3A
>> >for some time now.  A few years ago (maybe 20K miles) I replaced the
>> >driveshaft u-joints and had the shaft balanced.  Some months ago I got a
>> >copy of the Service Bulletin (mine is a little different than the one Randal
>> >posted) concerning gearshift rattles and performed the recommendations:  I
>> >enlarged the trapezoid hole in the lever cap, and also tried the short piece
>> >of rubber tubing on the lever, neither of which made a bit of difference,
>> >except for making it much more difficult to shift into reverse.  I've
>> >machined some shims/buffers out of Delrin for under the cap to prevent metal
>> >to metal contact in that area.  No luck.  I tried a stiffer/weaker gear
>> >lever spring.  No difference.  I tried hollowing out the gearshift knob and
>> >epoxying in a metal slug for dampening, again no luck.  On that note, I have
>> >tried at least 4 different gear shift knobs (including an original hard
>> >rubber one) with no change in the vibration.  The vibration and resultant
>> >chatter/rattle is much more sever when accelerating.  I'm now into the habit
>> >of steering with one hand and holding the gear lever with the other to
>> >somewhat dampen the rattle.  I'm kind of out of ideas, so I am following
>> >this thread closely.  Anyone have any other ideas?  Is the torpedo-shaped
>> >counter weight available anywhere?  Does it really do anything? Couldn't I
>> >just make one out of a slug of steel and fab a bracket of some sort, or does
>> >it have to be a certain weight to cancel a specific harmonic?  I dunno....
>> >Any suggestions?  Perhaps I need to revisit the driveshaft/u-joints?
>> >Thanks for wading through this.
>> >Dennis

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 12:59:18 -0500
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <1B5B68C7-C93A-4843-A84C-326737A7D22C@icloud.com>
 <20140905171348.B6E092584C39@autox.team.net>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing TR4 Gearbox Filler Plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, misread the original message.  What Brad said.

Tony

At 12:08 PM 9/5/2014, Tony Drews wrote:
>You "just" need more leverage.  Those seem much easier to tighten 
>than to loosen.  If you can slip a piece of tubing over the wrench 
>to make it longer, that might do the trick.  Or if you have a 
>crescent wrench that's longer than the square end wrench, that may 
>work to get it to move.  Of course, make sure you're really turning 
>in the "loosen" direction or it makes things worse.  :)
>
>BTDT - good luck!
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 11:46 AM 9/5/2014, Jeffrey Gayton wrote:
>>Greetings. Please forgive the newbie mechanical question, but Im having a
>>devil of a time removing the gearbox filler plug on my TR4. I just cant get
>>enough purchase with my square wrench. Every time I try to turn it, it slips
>>off. Please dont tell me I have to remove go in from the top!
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>-- Jeff
>>
>>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 13:01:17 2014
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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 13:53:01 -0500
From: Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net>
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To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Enkei wheel caps needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, listers!  Writing to ask you help in finding an early 80s era 
wheel cap for the Enkei 92 series mags on my TR250. They're black, about 
3" in diameter where they snap into the wheel center hole, Have the 
"ENKEI" logo in the middle, and they hang on (when they do) somewhat 
loosely.  And you can just imagine that one of mine let go on the way 
home from the South Central Regional VTR.

Enkei is remaking a wheel they call the 92 series, but the new caps are 
smaller.

Any advice/assistance in replacing this antique is appreciated. TIA.

Pat Fischer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 14:01:35 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Off to VTR
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 10:34 AM, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

> Got the wheel bearings checked


Is that important?  The wheel didn't fall off of my TR4 until I was coming
back from VTR...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 13:09:01 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] Off to VTR
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It was important this time as I found a cotter pin broken and ready to fall
out and let the nut back off at what no doubt be a bad time, not that there's
a good time.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 5, 2014, at 1:01 PM, Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>> On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 10:34 AM, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Got the wheel bearings checked
>
> Is that important?  The wheel didn't fall off of my TR4 until I was coming
back from VTR...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <540A068D.3010706@rmi.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 12:47:20 -0700
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Enkei wheel caps needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Pat-
 
Check this one out on ebay...  Enkei Push-In Center Cap (1750) Black

 
  
 
 
 
 
 
Enkei Push-In Center Cap (1750) Black
US $29.99 Used in eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Car & Truck Parts  
View on www.ebay.com Preview by Yahoo  
 
 
Chad in Tulsa
  


On Friday, September 5, 2014 2:03 PM, Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net> wrote:
  


Hello, listers!  Writing to ask you help in finding an early 80s era 
wheel cap for the Enkei 92 series mags on my TR250. They're black, about 
3" in diameter where they snap into the wheel center hole, Have the 
"ENKEI" logo in the middle, and they hang on (when they do) somewhat 
loosely.  And you can just imagine that one of mine let go on the way 
home from the South Central Regional VTR.

Enkei is remaking a wheel they call the 92 series, but the new caps are 
smaller.

Any advice/assistance in replacing this antique is appreciated. TIA.

Pat Fischer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 14:17:28 2014
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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 15:18:18 -0500
From: Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <540A068D.3010706@rmi.net>
 <1409946440.73492.YahooMailNeo@web120702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Enkei wheel caps needed
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you, but that is not the center I need. See attached.

Center hub image
On 9/5/2014 2:47 PM, Chad wrote:
> Pat-
> Check this one out on ebay... Enkei Push-In Center Cap (1750) Black 
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-Push-In-Center-Cap-1750-Black-/120800030178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c203e2de2&vxp=mtr>
> 	
> image 
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-Push-In-Center-Cap-1750-Black-/120800030178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c203e2de2&vxp=mtr>
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> Enkei Push-In Center Cap (1750) Black 
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-Push-In-Center-Cap-1750-Black-/120800030178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c203e2de2&vxp=mtr> 
>
> US $29.99 Used in eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Car & Truck Parts
>
> View on www.ebay.com 
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-Push-In-Center-Cap-1750-Black-/120800030178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c203e2de2&vxp=mtr>
> 	
> Preview by Yahoo
>
> Chad in Tulsa
>
>
> On Friday, September 5, 2014 2:03 PM, Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net> 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hello, listers!  Writing to ask you help in finding an early 80s era
> wheel cap for the Enkei 92 series mags on my TR250. They're black, about
> 3" in diameter where they snap into the wheel center hole, Have the
> "ENKEI" logo in the middle, and they hang on (when they do) somewhat
> loosely.  And you can just imagine that one of mine let go on the way
> home from the South Central Regional VTR.
>
> Enkei is remaking a wheel they call the 92 series, but the new caps are
> smaller.
>
> Any advice/assistance in replacing this antique is appreciated. TIA.
>
> Pat Fischer
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6@yahoo.com
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8160 - Release Date: 09/05/14

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Martin Secrest <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 16:56:29 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Strange Front End Noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My Tr6 has been making a strange noise for a while now, coming from the front
end while going over bumps. It is kind of a "racking" noise - I don't know how
to explain it better than that. Sounds like metal on metal, and seems to go
away after a while. Nothing visibly wrong with what I can see up front. Any
ideas?

Martin Secrest
Arlington VA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 16:06:11 2014
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To: moira.secrest@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Strange Front End Noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Take a close look at the frame in the area where the front suspension
attaches.  When my car started making those kinds of noises the frame 
was
cracking.

Jus' sayin'

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From:
Martin Secrest <moira.secrest@verizon.net>


My Tr6 has been making a
strange noise for a while now, coming from the 
front
end while going over
bumps. It is kind of a "racking" noise - I don't 
know how
to explain it
better than that. Sounds like metal on metal, and seems 
to go
away after a
while. Nothing visibly wrong with what I can see up front. 
Any
ideas?
Martin Secrest
Arlington VA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 16:19:02 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Strange Front End Noise
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>My Tr6 has been making a strange noise for a while now, coming from the front
>end while going over bumps. It is kind of a "racking" noise - I don't know how
>to explain it better than that. Sounds like metal on metal, and seems to go
>away after a while. Nothing visibly wrong with what I can see up front. Any
>ideas?

Hi, Martin.  The only thing that's turning up front that's also subject to suspension as a variable would be either the brakes or the wheel bearings.  Have you checked the wheel bearings recently?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 17:35:08 2014
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 19:27:36 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac/JYPi4ielSW5X3RumtzGLh93ETRQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Thank You!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:

Just wanted to say thank you for your tech support and parts that helped me
get my TR6 back on the road for VTR 2014!  The original tired engine is back
in the car after an 11 year hibernation in a crate.  Runs surprisingly well,
but burps, hiccups, belches, and spews from most orifices J  I just need it
to run for the week up in NC.  Ready for a hill climb and autocross along
with all the other great events scheduled.  I look forward to seeing folks
in Dobson!  I'm in the Yellow Hardtop TR6 from Florida.

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

62 TR4 x2

75 Tr6

68 Land Rover 88

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 20:16:54 -0400
From: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Off to VTR
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Happy Trails Bud,
I will be leaving in the wee hours of the morning Monday with the TR7 in
tow and Bob Palmer is going to follow in the TR8 under it's own power. We
will switch off driving the Eight.  Each have been road tested for 150
miles plus so confidence is high we won't be working on cars at the NATC.
Just a little over 400 miles for us,  a Easy Task!  Just in case:  "May the
Triumph gods smile upon us all and give us good weather to travel."
Cheers,
Darrell


On Friday, September 5, 2014, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

> Got the wheel bearings checked, the manifold nuts tightened, and topped off
> the carb dampers, so it s off to VTR 2014 in Dobson, NC. Looks like around
> 3200 miles to there and back to Denver. Should be fun. Brad Kahler and I
> are
> going to caravan on Tuesday from his house in Kentucky. See you all in NC.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver@gmail.com

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References: <00b501cfc960$fb11e0d0$f135a270$@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 20:40:04 -0400
From: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thank You!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I will be on the look out 4U Jim.
Darrell

On Friday, September 5, 2014, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> List:
>
> Just wanted to say thank you for your tech support and parts that helped me
> get my TR6 back on the road for VTR 2014!  The original tired engine is
> back
> in the car after an 11 year hibernation in a crate.  Runs surprisingly
> well,
> but burps, hiccups, belches, and spews from most orifices J  I just need it
> to run for the week up in NC.  Ready for a hill climb and autocross along
> with all the other great events scheduled.  I look forward to seeing folks
> in Dobson!  I'm in the Yellow Hardtop TR6 from Florida.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 Tr6
>
> 68 Land Rover 88
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 18:51:03 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 17:41:21 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Plug Removal Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks so much to everyone to responded to my troubles. I have the tool that
Geo noted, but it just slips off. The problem isnt leverage, because the
wrench slips off, and the plug is actually in pretty good shape. The problem
seems to be the position of the plug and the nearby flange of the gearbox.
Theyre perfectly positioned to make the wrench slip off every time. My FLAPS
is ordering me an 8-point socket and will have it here tomorrow. I was
surprised there wasnt such a thing as a 4-point socket, though.

Stay tuned, and thanks again!

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  5 19:06:22 2014
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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2014 0:57:14 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 0:57:14 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing TR4 Gearbox Filler Plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote:
> Greetings. Please forgive the newbie mechanical question, but Im having a
> devil of a time removing the gearbox filler plug on my TR4. I just cant
get
> enough purchase with my square wrench. Every time I try to turn it, it
slips
> off. Please dont tell me I have to remove go in from the top!

Go to Sears or your favorite tool supply, and pick up a 7/16" 8 point (not 12,
8) socket plus a breaker bar.  Should give you plenty of leverage.  If you
don't have one already, also pick up a big pry bar, so you can pry between the
edge of the floor and the head of the breaker bar.  That will keep it from
slipping off.

That should give you all the torque you need, to either get it out, or twist
the plug in half.  If the plug twists off, I'm afraid you're going to have to
remove the tunnel to get room to drill it out.  Driving the car until the
transmission is good and hot (or carefully supplying some heat with a heat
lamp or similar) will help loosen the plug.

Personally, I prefer to replace the factory plug with a hardened hex socket
plug.
http://goo.gl/69GQqy
I get mine at http://www.mcmaster.com

Some Teflon/PTFE pipe paste will help it seal and come out easier next time,
too.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  6 08:02:46 2014
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2014 09:58:22 -0400
To: moira.secrest@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Strange Front End Noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Martin,
 
Many front-end noises from "bumps" can be traced to loose body/frame  
pieces, radiator supports, etc.
 
Try taking a large rubber mallet and banging on the underneath suspension  
(not too aggressively!) and around the sway bar and bottom of radiator  
bracket....repeat the process with both front wheels off the  ground.  While the 
wheels are up, hit the tire on the tread with the  rubber mallet.  Check 
the front disk rotor dust shields...they can get  distorted and bent towards 
the rotor especially down at the bottom.
 
You didn't say what year your TR6 is but if it's an early car with rostyle  
wheel covers, they can create a metallic tinging noise if they don't fit  
tightly.
 
good luck,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs,  Ltd.
Skippack, PA
 
 
 
In a message dated 9/5/2014 5:05:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
moira.secrest@verizon.net writes:

My Tr6  has been making a strange noise for a while now, coming from the 
front
end  while going over bumps. It is kind of a "racking" noise - I don't know 
 how
to explain it better than that. Sounds like metal on metal, and seems  to go
away after a while. Nothing visibly wrong with what I can see up  front. Any
ideas?

Martin Secrest
Arlington VA

**  triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474@aol.com

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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2014 10:18:38 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 door check straps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The door check straps on my TR4 are the earlier flat style that have a
formed loop at each end.  I'm not keen on spending almost $40 each if I
don't have to so I'd like to try and repair the ones I have.

Would someone possibly have a picture they could send me as to what the
check strap looks like on the end that goes into the door post?  Or
possibly a picture or two of the whole assembly?

I've been searching but can't find any pictures with the details that I
need.

Any help would be appreciated!

Brad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2014 10:16:19 -0500
To: Triumphs Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>, nass@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TR] Need Smiths PCV Valve Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm trying to rebuild a Smiths PCV Valve and need the top cover and the spring
clip that holds the cover on. I have all of the rest of the parts and don't
really want to have to purchase a whole new valve.  These are shown greyed out
at the top right side of the following link:

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sg/full.aspx?Page=71

These valves were used on GT6, TR4 & Spitfires.

Please contact me direct at bberger720 at sbcglobal dot net and we can discuss
payment and shipping details.

Thanks

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2014 11:39:03 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 door check straps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Never mind...

After staring at the check strap assembly for a while I figured out what
was needed to make them work.  Working like a champ now :)

Brad



On Sat, Sep 6, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> The door check straps on my TR4 are the earlier flat style that have a
> formed loop at each end.  I'm not keen on spending almost $40 each if I
> don't have to so I'd like to try and repair the ones I have.
>
> Would someone possibly have a picture they could send me as to what the
> check strap looks like on the end that goes into the door post?  Or
> possibly a picture or two of the whole assembly?
>
> I've been searching but can't find any pictures with the details that I
> need.
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Brad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  6 14:06:34 2014
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Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2014 14:58:20 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] HS4s fuel level problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I have a 1980 Spitfire with dual HS4s on it. I have been having problems 
getting the fuel level set correctly in the carbs.

The fuel in the rear jet (~.30) is way lower than the fuel ion the front 
jet (~.20 )  The floats are the non adjustable plastic, but I have 
modified the rear one so it is only about 1/16"  where as the front one 
is closer to 3/8".

I took off the lids and floats of the fuel bowls - the rear level is 
about .9' and the front one is 1.02".  This seems like the fuel in the 
rear jet should be slightly higher than than the front, but is not.

The jets are new as the old ones seemed to have a bit of a crimp in the 
line between the bowl and the jet.  I used compressed air to blow 
through the jet and into the rear bowl.  It seemed to be fine.

Does any one have a suggestion of what I might be over looking?

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  6 14:37:45 2014
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Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2014 15:40:26 -0500
From: Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <540A068D.3010706@rmi.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Enkei wheel caps needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, got that photo thing figured out. Here is a link to a photo of the 
wheel caps:
http://www.kcallbritish.com/heartland/enkei_1_cap.jpg

Thanks, all.
Pat

On 9/5/2014 1:53 PM, Pat Fischer wrote:
> Hello, listers!  Writing to ask you help in finding an early 80s era 
> wheel cap for the Enkei 92 series mags on my TR250. They're black, 
> about 3" in diameter where they snap into the wheel center hole, Have 
> the "ENKEI" logo in the middle, and they hang on (when they do) 
> somewhat loosely.  And you can just imagine that one of mine let go on 
> the way home from the South Central Regional VTR.
>
> Enkei is remaking a wheel they call the 92 series, but the new caps 
> are smaller.
>
> Any advice/assistance in replacing this antique is appreciated. TIA.
>
> Pat Fischer
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8160 - Release Date: 09/05/14

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2014 15:40:04 -0700
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Does anyone have a TR3 or TR6 model in CAD?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Does anyone on the list have a CAD model of a TR6 or TR3 in CAD, preferably in a CATIA, STP or IGS file format?

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  6 18:10:10 2014
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Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2014 19:04:12 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <540B675C.2020301@rmi.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] HS4s fuel level problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

More information:

The carb with the highest level of fuel in the fuel bowl, has the lowest 
level of fuel in the jet.

I have switched bowls.  I moved the lids and floats from one to the 
other.  The problem stayed with the rear carb.

I weighed the floats, they are the same to the accuracy of my scale - 7 
grams.

I took one lid and float and moved it between the 2 carbs.  The back car 
still had a much lower level in the jet even though it had the highest 
level in the bowl.

When I changed bowls I made sure there was not an obstruction in the 
hole that the jet tubing goes into.

I know the engine sits at a bit of an angle with the back being a bit 
lower.  But it seems the carbs are create separate systems, so the fuel 
level should be closer between the two than what I can get.

Thanks,
Roger

On 09/06/2014 02:58 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a 1980 Spitfire with dual HS4s on it. I have been having 
> problems getting the fuel level set correctly in the carbs.
>
> The fuel in the rear jet (~.30) is way lower than the fuel ion the 
> front jet (~.20 )  The floats are the non adjustable plastic, but I 
> have modified the rear one so it is only about 1/16"  where as the 
> front one is closer to 3/8".
>
> I took off the lids and floats of the fuel bowls - the rear level is 
> about .9' and the front one is 1.02".  This seems like the fuel in the 
> rear jet should be slightly higher than than the front, but is not.
>
> The jets are new as the old ones seemed to have a bit of a crimp in 
> the line between the bowl and the jet.  I used compressed air to blow 
> through the jet and into the rear bowl.  It seemed to be fine.
>
> Does any one have a suggestion of what I might be over looking?
>
> Thanks,
> Roger Elliott
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr@rmi.net

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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 06:42:17 -0700
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Painting/Powdercoating TR6 Steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

________________________________

Hello all,
 
The spokes on my 74 TR6 steering wheel is starting to peel and look ratty. Has anyone had one Powdercoated? I am not sure if the heat need to cure would be to much for the rim. If you did paint what color was the best match?

Thank in advance for any input.

Robert

Robert Rudolphi
74 TR6    

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare 
Thread-Index: Ac/K34s6dH4fBss6SxCQinlP2hiqKw==
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 21:23:20 +0000
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 tests=BSF_RULE7568M
 breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
 ----------------------
 -------------------------------------------------- 0.50 BSF_RULE7568M 
 Custom Rule 7568M
Subject: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with radials.  The
correct size appears to be 165R15.  I'm currently running 590-15 U. S. Royals
on Dayton 48 spokers.

My problem is I want to replace the spare as well.

The current spare in a 70's vintage 600-15 bias on a 48 spoke Dunlop and it
fits but very tightly (i.e. height).  I figured if a tire from my TR4A (165R15
Firestone F560 on 60 spoke Dayton) fits, I'm good.  Unfortunately it doesn't!

If you have a pre TS60000 TR3 (or TR2) with a radial spare aboard, I'd
appreciate knowing what you are running and how tight the fit is.  I say pre
60000, because the pan changed at that point, I imagine getting deeper?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR, 
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H

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From: John Wise <wisejohna@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 17:55:19 -0400
References: <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF820AAC80B@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
To: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I was in college (a long time ago) I put Michelin Xs on my first TR3A.
Since they are no longer made I bought 5 Vredestien (Sp?) 165-HR15 for my
current 1960 TR3A.  The 5th one fits perfectly in the spare compartment and
tread looks a lot like the old Michelin X.

John

On  7 Sep, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca> wrote:

> I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with radials.  The
> correct size appears to be 165R15.  I'm currently running 590-15 U. S.
Royals
> on Dayton 48 spokers.
>
> My problem is I want to replace the spare as well.


John

John Wise
wisejohna@gmail.com

http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html

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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 14:56:37 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I carry a 165/15 spare in my pre-60000 TR3A -- but it is deflated, has a
coating of baby powder on both sides and a loop of nylon strapping around
the back end for grabbing.

I can get it out by sitting on the ground and tugging - can get maximum
leverage if need be with one foot on each bumperette.

I recall Randall carries a space saver spare which is certainly a more
civilized approach, though I do not know how that works with a wire wheel.

Geo

On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 2:23 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca> wrote:

> I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with radials.  The
> correct size appears to be 165R15.  I'm currently running 590-15 U. S.
> Royals
> on Dayton 48 spokers.
>
> My problem is I want to replace the spare as well.
>
> The current spare in a 70's vintage 600-15 bias on a 48 spoke Dunlop and it
> fits but very tightly (i.e. height).  I figured if a tire from my TR4A
> (165R15
> Firestone F560 on 60 spoke Dayton) fits, I'm good.  Unfortunately it
> doesn't!
>
> If you have a pre TS60000 TR3 (or TR2) with a radial spare aboard, I'd
> appreciate knowing what you are running and how tight the fit is.  I say
> pre
> 60000, because the pan changed at that point, I imagine getting deeper?
>
> Thanks in advance for your input.
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________________________________
>    Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
>    92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
>    Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01
> XKR,
> 75 John Deere 920
>    CANADA   K0H
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 16:26:25 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Brian Thomas'" <thomasb@queensu.ca>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 15:29:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/K34s6dH4fBss6SxCQinlP2hiqKwACYhmw
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with 
> radials.  The
> correct size appears to be 165R15. 

Nope, not on a 56.  The 165 tires didn't come in until after TS60000 when the spare tire compartment got bigger.

> If you have a pre TS60000 TR3 (or TR2) with a radial spare aboard, I'd
> appreciate knowing what you are running and how tight the fit 
> is. 

I did have a whole set of 155 tires from Europe (sorry, don't recall the brand offhand), which would fit moderately snugly mounted
on a steel wheel.   But I gave them all away to friends with the same problem.  As Geo said, I now run a "compact spare" from the
junkyard, mounted on a standard TR3 rim, and it fits with lots of room to spare.  I have to pack a blanket and a towel in to keep it
from sliding around.  (Which is OK, because they both come in handy while changing tires or other road-side services.)

Not the best photo, but maybe you can make out how much smaller it is here:
http://goo.gl/xUesSa

The compact spare is supposed to be for temporary use only, and only at 45 mph or below.  But I drove a couple of hours at 70+ mph
with it, and had no troubles.  The car did handle a bit differently, but not enough for concern, IMO.  YMMV and all that.

Given how reliable modern steel radials are, there is something to be said for only carrying a can of Fix-a-Flat and a cell phone.
But I like having a spare tire available, and the steel radial didn't help when I stupidly ran over a broken curb and punched a big
hole in the sidewall.

Randall

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 17:44:58 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Engine mount
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi list,
Recently installed rebuilt engine in my TR4A.  New mounts are round as were
the originals and in the same mounting holes...the rear holes.  Engine not
dressed out yet.  Just noticed the fan hub extension is resting on the
steering rack.  Don't know why I have this interference.  Gearbox install went
easily, no binding or forcing.  Any insights as to what the problem might be
will be appreciated.
John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5D.B0.14356.D2CDC045@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 19:14:13 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In addition to the tire size variation, I believe a period Dunlop 48 spoke 
was 4" wide, and a 60 spoke was 4.5", so all else being equal your sidewall 
will probably bow out a little farther with the 60 spoke WW.

Somewhere I have a picture of my brother and I, a rope, a stout tree and a 
stuck spare in a freshly restored TR3A, I will let your imagination fill in 
the rest.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 7, 2014 5:29 PM
To: "'Brian Thomas'" <thomasb@queensu.ca>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare

>> I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with
>> radials.  The
>> correct size appears to be 165R15.
>
> Nope, not on a 56.  The 165 tires didn't come in until after TS60000 when 
> the spare tire compartment got bigger.
>
>> If you have a pre TS60000 TR3 (or TR2) with a radial spare aboard, I'd
>> appreciate knowing what you are running and how tight the fit
>> is.
>
> I did have a whole set of 155 tires from Europe (sorry, don't recall the 
> brand offhand), which would fit moderately snugly mounted
> on a steel wheel.   But I gave them all away to friends with the same 
> problem.  As Geo said, I now run a "compact spare" from the
> junkyard, mounted on a standard TR3 rim, and it fits with lots of room to 
> spare.  I have to pack a blanket and a towel in to keep it
> from sliding around.  (Which is OK, because they both come in handy while 
> changing tires or other road-side services.)
>
> Not the best photo, but maybe you can make out how much smaller it is 
> here:
> http://goo.gl/xUesSa
>
> The compact spare is supposed to be for temporary use only, and only at 45 
> mph or below.  But I drove a couple of hours at 70+ mph
> with it, and had no troubles.  The car did handle a bit differently, but 
> not enough for concern, IMO.  YMMV and all that.
>
> Given how reliable modern steel radials are, there is something to be said 
> for only carrying a can of Fix-a-Flat and a cell phone.
> But I like having a spare tire available, and the steel radial didn't help 
> when I stupidly ran over a broken curb and punched a big
> hole in the sidewall.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 18:56:09 2014
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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 20:55:37 -0400
From: trmarty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <Triumphs@Autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[9D5FB480:01CFCAFF]
Subject: [TR] Dobson
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We're here and sipping vino. I think we are the only ones here so far.

Marty

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From: Thomas Fansher <tfansher@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 21:05:23 -0400
To: trmarty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
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Cc: Triumph List <Triumphs@Autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dobson
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On our way in the morning.
Tom and Janet

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 7, 2014, at 8:55 PM, trmarty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> We're here and sipping vino. I think we are the only ones here so far.
> 
> Marty

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 19:26:26 2014
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From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2014 21:22:56 -0400
References: <BLU402-EAS5408F9AF72206FBB0FCAEFBAC10@phx.gbl>
To: trmarty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <Triumphs@Autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dobson
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Will be heading down Tuesday Morning. Will be staying at the
Mayberry Campground in the race car trailer. Will see you Tuesday
afternoon.

Dean T.


On Sep 7, 2014, at 8:55 PM, trmarty wrote:

> We're here and sipping vino. I think we are the only ones here so far.
>
> Marty
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 21:42:26 2014
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References: <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF820AAC80B@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 23:41:10 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Long thread ongoing about spare tire fitting on the TR Register Forum in
the UK.  Might be worth a read -- I believe this part of the forum is
viewable by all.
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/48550-tr3a-spare-wheel-wont-fit-in-cubby/

On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 5:23 PM, Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca> wrote:

> I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with radials.  The
> correct size appears to be 165R15.  I'm currently running 590-15 U. S.
> Royals
> on Dayton 48 spokers.
>
> My problem is I want to replace the spare as well.
>
> The current spare in a 70's vintage 600-15 bias on a 48 spoke Dunlop and it
> fits but very tightly (i.e. height).  I figured if a tire from my TR4A
> (165R15
> Firestone F560 on 60 spoke Dayton) fits, I'm good.  Unfortunately it
> doesn't!
>
> If you have a pre TS60000 TR3 (or TR2) with a radial spare aboard, I'd
> appreciate knowing what you are running and how tight the fit is.  I say
> pre
> 60000, because the pan changed at that point, I imagine getting deeper?
>
> Thanks in advance for your input.
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________________________________
>    Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
>    92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
>    Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01
> XKR,
> 75 John Deere 920
>    CANADA   K0H
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 21:27:19 -0700
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Spoiler Restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     My front spoileris serviceable, but faded. What can be done to restore the dark black color? Black paint? Armorall? Tire Blacking? Something else?

     -Bill in Tehachapi
     Too cheap to buy a new repro spoiler...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 05:17:12 2014
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Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 04:11:23 -0700
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Front Spoiler Restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Try this:  
http://blackwow.com/products/BlackWowClassic.html

Mini Cooper guys use it on their plastic side trim.....works great!

Chad in Tulsa

------------------------------
On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 11:27 PM CDT William Brewer wrote:

>     My front spoileris serviceable, but faded. What can be done to restore the dark black color? Black paint? Armorall? Tire Blacking? Something else?
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
>     Too cheap to buy a new repro spoiler...
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 06:05:26 2014
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "Triumphs"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1410150439.19195.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 08:07:41 -0400
 xdsZ5MHaiPH4Yrv+cNnzabWE4mjx4JczOkizZD38MU9OOu+93x
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Front Spoiler Restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If it's really far gone, you can use black plastic paint which is made in a 
variety of sheens. Just make sure it specifies  that it's for plastic/nylon.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm
Fender Blankets

-----Original Message----- 
From: William Brewer
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 12:27 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Spoiler Restoration

     My front spoileris serviceable, but faded. What can be done to restore 
the dark black color? Black paint? Armorall? Tire Blacking? Something else?

     -Bill in Tehachapi
     Too cheap to buy a new repro spoiler...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2014 07:00:13 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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References: <5D.B0.14356.D2CDC045@cdptpa-oedge02>
 <10075EDA8920455593B39C6A10E6D266@livingroompc>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
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On 9/7/14, 5:14 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> In addition to the tire size variation, I believe a period Dunlop 48 
> spoke was 4" wide, and a 60 spoke was 4.5", so all else being equal 
> your sidewall will probably bow out a little farther with the 60 spoke 
> WW.
>
I have a post TS60000 and the 60 spoke wheel mounted 165-15 is too tall 
to fit.  But it snugly fits a 48 spoke mounted 165-15.  So I have 60 
spokes on the ground and a 48 spoke spare.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 08:18:19 2014
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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: John Wise <wisejohna@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
Thread-Index: AQHPyuZswflR78d/j0iuCFLlfHDI5Zv3R75g
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 14:18:57 +0000
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Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
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Hi John,

As you are the only one responding that fits a 165R15 tire (fully inflated,
I'm assuming) into the TR3 spare compartment, I have a couple of questions:

. is your 1960 TR3 perhaps post TS60000?
. what wheels are you using?  Stock steel, 48spoke, 60 spoke, ...?

Thanks,

Brian

From: John Wise [mailto:wisejohna@gmail.com]
Sent: September-07-14 5:55 PM
To: Brian Thomas
Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare

When I was in college (a long time ago) I put Michelin Xs on my first TR3A.
Since they are no longer made I bought 5 Vredestien (Sp?) 165-HR15 for my
current 1960 TR3A.  The 5th one fits perfectly in the spare compartment and
tread looks a lot like the old Michelin X.

John

On  7 Sep, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Brian Thomas


I'm about to replace the bias ply tires on my 1956 TR3 with radials.  The
correct size appears to be 165R15.  I'm currently running 590-15 U. S. Royals
on Dayton 48 spokers.

My problem is I want to replace the spare as well.

John

John Wise

http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 10:35:04 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2014 09:37:03 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Gearbox Filler Plug Update
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Greetings. An 8-point 7/8th socket worked a charm. It wasn't hard to turn at
all, once I had the angles right. Thanks again for everyone's help and
suggestions!



-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 10:53:07 2014
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 12:55:22 -0400
References: <mailman.823.1410174686.2012.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Cc: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Front Spoiler Restoration
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On Sep 7, 2014, at 9:27 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>
>     My front spoileris serviceable, but faded. What can be done to restore
the dark black color? Black paint? Armorall? Tire Blacking? Something else?
>
>     -Bill in Tehachapi
>     Too cheap to buy a new repro spoiler...


+1 on the Black Wow. I have not used it on the spoiler, but every other trim
piece where I have used, the results have been impressive. You may need
several coats, over a few days (or hours for Black Wow Pro) for best effect.
But, I believe it is a silicone  based product and that will have
ramifications should you later want to paint the spoiler.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 11:08:37 2014
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Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 10:10:53 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Front Spoiler Restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used Krylon Fusion for plastic on a similar non-TR application and
so far (couple of years) it has held up well in road use.

Geo

On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 9:27 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>      My front spoileris serviceable, but faded. What can be done to
> restore the dark black color? Black paint? Armorall? Tire Blacking?
> Something else?
>
>      -Bill in Tehachapi
>      Too cheap to buy a new repro spoiler...
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 16:53:40 2014
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Hi John,
As far as I know, TR4A had the square front engine mounts.
I happen
to have both a new set of rounds (as was on my TR4) and a new set of squares
(because I thought updated 4A design made sense at the time).
Side by side:
the square ones are a full 1/8" taller.
But because so many folks have
discussed rubbing fan extensions on steering racks - and the factory
literature mentions fit 'shims' as necessary regarding this, I have purchased
round and square washers from Home Depot that are 1/8" thick (one at top and
one at bottom of mount would raise engine about 1/4") although I never had the
problem you mention - in fact, I could always swap fan belts easily. 
I took a
photo of the above mentioned parts and am emailing to your address..
Regards
and good luck,
Carl 
'63 TR4 since '74


Hi list,
Recently installed rebuilt
engine in my TR4A.  New mounts are round as were
the originals and in the same
mounting holes...the rear holes.  Engine not
dressed out yet.  Just noticed
the fan hub extension is resting on the
steering rack.  Don't know why I have
this interference.  Gearbox install went
easily, no binding or forcing.  Any
insights as to what the problem might be
will be appreciated.
John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 05:31:32 2014
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 07:33:50 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dobson
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Heading out to Dobson this afternoon from Raleigh.  I'll be working the
various desks throughout Tuesday night, Wed, and Thursday.  Keep an eye out
for me!

3 of my 4 cars are running, but since I'm working I won't be bringing  any.
 :(

Chris

1954 TR2
1963 TR4
1969 TR6
1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 09:32:11 2014
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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
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Subject: Re: [TR] Pre TS60000 TR3 and Radial Spare
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded to my question of what size radial fits the early
TR3 tire compartment.

The answer appears to be a 155SR15 on (in my case) 48 spoke wires (which are 4
inches deep).

My next problem is finding a 155SR15 in a wide whitewall.  The only offering
I've been able to find is DiamondBack's BFGoodrich at $227 a pop.

Anyone know of alternatives?

I'm also considering using four 165SR15 Coker wide whites ($160 each)  and
carrying a blackwall 155SR15 Firestone or Vredstein as the spare.

Brian

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 12:48:51 2014
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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 18:43:07 +0000
 FILETIME=[E6410780:01CFCC5D]
Subject: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,

I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A.  Today I unpacked one to
install on a rear fender.  The beads have all been covered with a black
plastic protective coating.  No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
IMPOSSIBLE.

I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low setting on my
heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get the plastic
off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high heat from the
heat gun.  The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear fender
bead.  I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and nylon brush
wheels on my Dremel.  The Dremel proved useless too.  I tired acetone to
soften the plastic with no success.

Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating from the
fender beads?  Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove this
plastic.
Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 13:34:37 2014
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References: <BLU180-W70676E75E292319E6AA64AE5CE0@phx.gbl>
From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 14:27:24 -0500
To: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a set of the same beading from TRF, not yet installed.  Better go check
it out.  If anyone has the solution please post it to the full list.

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Sep 9, 2014, at 1:43 PM, tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hi List,

I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A.  Today I unpacked one to
install on a rear fender.  The beads have all been covered with a black
plastic protective coating.  No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
IMPOSSIBLE.

I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low setting on my
heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get the plastic
off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high heat from the
heat gun.  The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear
fender
bead.  I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and nylon brush
wheels on my Dremel.  The Dremel proved useless too.  I tired acetone to
soften the plastic with no success.

Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating from the
fender beads?  Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove this
plastic.
Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 13:49:44 2014
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Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2014 15:43:40 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.0
CC: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W70676E75E292319E6AA64AE5CE0@phx.gbl>
 <8D4C2950-0E62-491D-A1F5-E366C4938872@flash.net>
 a=nXQKLQ0v+ANWqi+PIAtHAA==:117 a=nXQKLQ0v+ANWqi+PIAtHAA==:17
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 a=9X_zMSMRwuAA:10
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

Is there some reason you dont want to leave the plastic on? I put tape 
on mine before install to insure no scratches on the paint.

Bob

On 09/09/2014 03:27 PM, Wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> I have a set of the same beading from TRF, not yet installed.  Better go check
> it out.  If anyone has the solution please post it to the full list.
>
> Bill
>
> Sent from mobile Bill
>
> On Sep 9, 2014, at 1:43 PM, tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A.  Today I unpacked one to
> install on a rear fender.  The beads have all been covered with a black
> plastic protective coating.  No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
> IMPOSSIBLE.
>
> I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low setting on my
> heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get the plastic
> off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high heat from the
> heat gun.  The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear
> fender
> bead.  I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and nylon brush
> wheels on my Dremel.  The Dremel proved useless too.  I tired acetone to
> soften the plastic with no success.
>
> Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating from the
> fender beads?  Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove this
> plastic.
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr@adelphia.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 14:34:14 2014
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From: "dave willner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W70676E75E292319E6AA64AE5CE0@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 16:30:57 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thatbs terrible news, unacceptable for a supplier to offer/sell anything in 
that manner. I'm a huge TRF fan, but that shouldn't be...I'd send it back 
and look elsewhere, hard enough installing let alone prepping it now

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A BRG
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 VS

-----Original Message----- 
From: tom white
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 2:43 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.

Hi List,

I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A.  Today I unpacked one to
install on a rear fender.  The beads have all been covered with a black
plastic protective coating.  No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
IMPOSSIBLE.

I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low setting on my
heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get the plastic
off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high heat from 
the
heat gun.  The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear 
fender
bead.  I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and nylon brush
wheels on my Dremel.  The Dremel proved useless too.  I tired acetone to
soften the plastic with no success.

Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating from the
fender beads?  Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove this
plastic.
Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner@pa.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 14:50:31 2014
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Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 16:43:41 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree, that black plastic film does not peel easily. I remember shaving
it off with little effort. Don't be in a hurry.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> Hi List,
>
> I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A.  Today I unpacked one
> to
> install on a rear fender.  The beads have all been covered with a black
> plastic protective coating.  No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
> IMPOSSIBLE.
>
> I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low setting on
> my
> heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get the
> plastic
> off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high heat from
> the
> heat gun.  The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear
> fender
> bead.  I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and nylon brush
> wheels on my Dremel.  The Dremel proved useless too.  I tired acetone to
> soften the plastic with no success.
>
> Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating from the
> fender beads?  Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove this
> plastic.
> Best regards,
> Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 16:09:29 2014
Return-Path: <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>
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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "greg@gelhar.com" <greg@gelhar.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 22:11:16 +0000
References: <BLU180-W70676E75E292319E6AA64AE5CE0@phx.gbl>,
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 FILETIME=[FA13C5F0:01CFCC7A]
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a source for wing beads other than TRF or Moss who both get
the same black plastic covered beads?

Best regards,
Tom

> Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 16:43:41 -0400
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
> From: greg@gelhar.com
> To: tswhitez123@hotmail.com
> CC: triumphs@autox.team.net
>
> I agree, that black plastic film does not peel easily. I remember shaving
> it off with little effort. Don't be in a hurry.
>
>
> Greg G.
> Osseo, MN
>
>
>
> > Hi List,
> >
> > I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A.  Today I unpacked one
> > to
> > install on a rear fender.  The beads have all been covered with a black
> > plastic protective coating.  No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
> > IMPOSSIBLE.
> >
> > I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low setting on
> > my
> > heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get the
> > plastic
> > off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high heat from
> > the
> > heat gun.  The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear
> > fender
> > bead.  I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and nylon
brush
> > wheels on my Dremel.  The Dremel proved useless too.  I tired acetone to
> > soften the plastic with no success.
> >
> > Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating from the
> > fender beads?  Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove this
> > plastic.
> > Best regards,
> > Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 17:06:21 2014
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>,  Triumphs List
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References: <BLU180-W70676E75E292319E6AA64AE5CE0@phx.gbl>,
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 a=hDNj1DO-lbwFrBcLy-EA:9 a=Pm066nobte39LgI3:21 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok,

I thought the plastic was only on the tabs, not the actual bead.

Then I agree, send it back and try another vendor.

Bob

On 09/09/2014 06:04 PM, tom white wrote:
> The plastic coating is black not polished stainless steel.
>
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> > Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 15:43:40 -0400
> > From: yellowtr@adelphia.net
> > CC: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > Is there some reason you dont want to leave the plastic on? I put tape
> > on mine before install to insure no scratches on the paint.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > On 09/09/2014 03:27 PM, Wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> > > I have a set of the same beading from TRF, not yet installed. 
> Better go check
> > > it out. If anyone has the solution please post it to the full list.
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > Sent from mobile Bill
> > >
> > > On Sep 9, 2014, at 1:43 PM, tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi List,
> > >
> > > I bought a wing bead kit from TRF for my 1960 TR3A. Today I 
> unpacked one to
> > > install on a rear fender. The beads have all been covered with a black
> > > plastic protective coating. No problem just peel and strip, WRONG AND
> > > IMPOSSIBLE.
> > >
> > > I called TRF and their suggestion was use a hair dryer of low 
> setting on my
> > > heat gun to strip the plastic, WRONG AGAIN. I did manage to get 
> the plastic
> > > off of one small rear fender tail bead with ten minutes of high 
> heat from the
> > > heat gun. The same approach did not proof effective on the larger rear
> > > fender
> > > bead. I also attempted to remove the plastic with buffing and 
> nylon brush
> > > wheels on my Dremel. The Dremel proved useless too. I tired acetone to
> > > soften the plastic with no success.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have an effective way to remove the plastic coating 
> from the
> > > fender beads? Pleas4e let me know if there is a good way to remove 
> this
> > > plastic.
> > > Best regards,
> > > Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  9 17:24:07 2014
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Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 23:26:22 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 23:26:22 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Wing bead kit plastic protective coating.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Does anyone have a source for wing beads other than TRF or Moss who both get
> the same black plastic covered beads?

No, but I had no problem removing the plastic from the ones I got from TRF.  Just like masking tape, scrape up one end until there is enough to pull on, then pull it off.  Had a few small places to touch up, but no problems.

You might try adding some PB Blaster along the edge.  I've found that it will soften the adhesive behind old labels.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 06:29:26 2014
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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 05:31:36 -0700
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     My ignition switch on my 1974 TR6 is problematic. The back of the switch is all wobbly and you have to stick your hand behind the switch and push it in to get contact to start the car.
     Last night I laid on my back and got back there and the whole thing just sort of wobbled apart. Now I am not sure how to get it back together.
     1. Was there supposed to be a screw that holds it all together tight?
     2. The metal socket that the porcelain part pushes in to is all wobbly. Is there a way to tighten it up?
     3. A steel ball, like a ball bearing, fell out. Where does that go?
     4. Is there a link somewhere to a TR6 ignition switch rebuilding website?
     5. How hard is it and how long does it take to change out the ignition switch? The steering wheel lock looks like something to avoid messing with.
     6. Should I just get a new switch and start over?
     Please help!     

     It might be best to contact me off-list.
     TIA,

     -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 09:54:14 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Indeed there is as illustrated in this plate in the TRF catalog:
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?page=29



Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
My ignition switch on my 1974 TR6 is problematic. The back of the 
switch is
all wobbly and you have to stick your hand behind the switch and push 
it in
to
get contact to start the car.
      Last night I laid on my back and got
back there and the whole 
thing just
sort of wobbled apart. Now I am not
sure how to get it back together.
      1. Was there supposed to be a screw
that holds it all together 
tight?
      2. The metal socket that the
porcelain part pushes in to is all 
wobbly. Is
there a way to tighten it up?
3. A steel ball, like a ball bearing, fell out. Where does that go?
      4.
Is there a link somewhere to a TR6 ignition switch rebuilding 
website?
5. How hard is it and how long does it take to change out the 
ignition
switch? The steering wheel lock looks like something to avoid messing 
with.
6. Should I just get a new switch and start over?
     Please help!
It might be best to contact me off-list.
     TIA,

     -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 10:48:08 2014
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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 12:50:17 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearshift Boot
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

1975 TR6...tidying up some odds and ends.  I now have the lower rubber
piece of the boot that snaps into the cardboard gearbox cover.  I
tried to snap the upper rubber piece (that hides inside the upper
boot) over this, but it's far too small to go around.

Having never seen one properly attached, I'm left with two conclusions:

1.  This isn't the way it's supposed to work; or

2.  My upper boot is old and petrified and shrunken like a cannibal's trophy.

Can anyone help me decide?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 13:18:26 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings. I'm having trouble finding out if my '62 TR4 has been converted
from positive to negative earth. Online sources say to check and see if the
grounding strap is connected to the positive or negative terminal of the
battery. Sadly, my battery doesn't have + or - signs on it. The grounded
terminal is labelled red, which suggests the car is still positive earth, but
the other terminal is green rather than black. What's more, both the green and
red indicators are rounds of felt around the terminals rather than part of the
battery itself, so I can't be sure that whatever they're trying to indicate is
actually true.

I tried looking online for the battery itself, but couldn't get any hits. It's
a Martech battery, part #27C-715, and it says it's manufactured by Maritime
Batteries.

Oh, and the terminals are the same size, so I can't use
the-larger-terminal-is-generally-positive test.

Thanks in advance for any help.



-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 14:37:47 2014
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 15:39:48 -0500
References: <330E0262-074E-425A-9F1D-94D673CAAC95@icloud.com>
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeffrey,

I quick test would be to use a testing light.

Attach one lead of the light to a known ground and try the other lead on both
terminals.
Provided the battery holds charge, the one that makes the light glow is
positive!

A multimeter would do the same


On Sep 10, 2014, at 3:18 PM, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote:

> Greetings. I'm having trouble finding out if my '62 TR4 has been converted
> from positive to negative earth. Online sources say to check and see if the
> grounding strap is connected to the positive or negative terminal of the
> battery. Sadly, my battery doesn't have + or - signs on it. The grounded
> terminal is labelled red, which suggests the car is still positive earth,
but
> the other terminal is green rather than black. What's more, both the green
and
> red indicators are rounds of felt around the terminals rather than part of
the
> battery itself, so I can't be sure that whatever they're trying to indicate
is
> actually true.
>
> I tried looking online for the battery itself, but couldn't get any hits.
It's
> a Martech battery, part #27C-715, and it says it's manufactured by Maritime
> Batteries.
>
> Oh, and the terminals are the same size, so I can't use
> the-larger-terminal-is-generally-positive test.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
>
> -- Jeff
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

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Subject: Re: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Use your voltmeter and see which directions give you a positive reading 
and
which gives you a negative reading.

You don't have a voltmeter, you say?
Well, you should if you plan on 
doing any electrical troubleshooting.
They're cheap and handy to keep 
around.

Or you could look closely on the
battery.  They typically have a "+" or 
"-" molded into the batter case.
Also the positive terminal is a bit larger in diameter.

Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
To:
triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 10, 2014 3:18 pm
Subject:
[TR] Positive or Negative Earth


Greetings. I'm having trouble finding out
if my '62 TR4 has been 
converted
 from positive to negative earth. Online
sources say to check and see if 
the
grounding strap is connected to the
positive or negative terminal of the
battery. Sadly, my battery doesn't have
+ or - signs on it. The grounded
terminal is labelled red, which suggests the
car is still positive 
earth, but
the other terminal is green rather than
black. What's more, both the 
green and
red indicators are rounds of felt
around the terminals rather than part 
of the
battery itself, so I can't be
sure that whatever they're trying to 
indicate is
actually true.

I tried
looking online for the battery itself, but couldn't get any 
hits. It's
a
Martech battery, part #27C-715, and it says it's manufactured by 
Maritime
Batteries.

Oh, and the terminals are the same size, so I can't use
the-larger-terminal-is-generally-positive test.

Thanks in advance for any
help.



-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 14:53:43 2014
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAO8Q7CMknOtgebkpq9ZythSvf4MV=ZU-F+iZ0usL83twqH6s2w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 16:54:55 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Gearshift Boot
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got pictures I can send you and there's also pictures of how it all 
goes together in the 6-Pack Forum (www.6-pack.org) from a thread about that 
very subject.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm
Fender Blankets



-----Original Message----- 
From: Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2014 12:50 PM
To: Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearshift Boot

1975 TR6...tidying up some odds and ends.  I now have the lower rubber
piece of the boot that snaps into the cardboard gearbox cover.  I
tried to snap the upper rubber piece (that hides inside the upper
boot) over this, but it's far too small to go around.

Having never seen one properly attached, I'm left with two conclusions:

1.  This isn't the way it's supposed to work; or

2.  My upper boot is old and petrified and shrunken like a cannibal's 
trophy.

Can anyone help me decide?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 14:56:49 2014
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "Triumphs"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1410352296.99910.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 16:59:14 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As you can see from the attached diagram, there is a very small set screw 
that holds the two pieces together. Can't help you with the other questions.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: William Brewer
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2014 8:31 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch Questions

     My ignition switch on my 1974 TR6 is problematic. The back of the 
switch is all wobbly and you have to stick your hand behind the switch and 
push it in to get contact to start the car.
     Last night I laid on my back and got back there and the whole thing 
just sort of wobbled apart. Now I am not sure how to get it back together.
     1. Was there supposed to be a screw that holds it all together tight?
     2. The metal socket that the porcelain part pushes in to is all wobbly. 
Is there a way to tighten it up?
     3. A steel ball, like a ball bearing, fell out. Where does that go?
     4. Is there a link somewhere to a TR6 ignition switch rebuilding 
website?
     5. How hard is it and how long does it take to change out the ignition 
switch? The steering wheel lock looks like something to avoid messing with.
     6. Should I just get a new switch and start over?
     Please help!

     It might be best to contact me off-list.
     TIA,

     -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 16:09:44 2014
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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2014 15:11:58 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Those felt circles are add-ons and thus not reliable.  It is possible that
one of them conceals the usual polarity mark.

In addition to the suggested use of a meter, you may note that the positive
post is noticeably larger in diameter than the negative post.

If, after figuring out the battery, you are uncertain whether your car the
car has had its polarity changed, the simplest thing to do is just decide
which you want it to be (positive or negative ground) and conduct the very
quick & easy conversion procedure.  IOW, you do not need to know what it is
to to the procedure and doing it unnecessarily is harmless.

Geo

On Wed, Sep 10, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote:

> Greetings. I'm having trouble finding out if my '62 TR4 has been converted
> from positive to negative earth. Online sources say to check and see if the
> grounding strap is connected to the positive or negative terminal of the
> battery. Sadly, my battery doesn't have + or - signs on it. The grounded
> terminal is labelled red, which suggests the car is still positive earth,
> but
> the other terminal is green rather than black. What's more, both the green
> and
> red indicators are rounds of felt around the terminals rather than part of
> the
> battery itself, so I can't be sure that whatever they're trying to
> indicate is
> actually true.
>
> I tried looking online for the battery itself, but couldn't get any hits.
> It's
> a Martech battery, part #27C-715, and it says it's manufactured by Maritime
> Batteries.
>
> Oh, and the terminals are the same size, so I can't use
> the-larger-terminal-is-generally-positive test.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
>
> -- Jeff
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 10 18:01:57 2014
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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 0:04:04 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 0:04:04 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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---- Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote: 
> You don't have a voltmeter, you say?
> Well, you should if you plan on 
> doing any electrical troubleshooting.

If you own an old car, you should have a meter even if you don't _plan_ to do any troubleshooting!

Digital multimeters (which will function as voltmeters) have gotten so cheap, and so rugged, that there is no excuse not to have one in every old car you own.  Harbor Freight almost always has one or more of them on sale for under $10; at the moment I count 3 different models under $10.

If that's too much, check out eBay.  Here's one for $5 with free shipping in the US.
http://goo.gl/005R2n

Not as accurate as more expensive models, but way better than nothing.  And if it breaks, just buy another.

There's also a way to do it with a couple pieces of copper wire and a potato, but I haven't tried it since high school and might not remember all the details.  As I recall, you cut the potato (to make it easier to see), sprinkle a little salt on it and jam the wires in fairly close to each other but not close enough to touch.  The potato will turn green or yellow around one of the wires; that's the positive wire.

Be sure to discard the potato afterwards.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 0:59:50 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 0:59:50 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
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> Attach one lead of the light to a known ground and try the other lead on both
> terminals.
> Provided the battery holds charge, the one that makes the light glow is
> positive!

That's true only if the car is negative ground.  If the car is positive ground, then the one that makes the light glow is negative.

The advantage of the meter is that it will tell you polarity.  A test light lights the same either way.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 11 10:34:40 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 09:37:02 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks, as always, to everyone who wrote to suggest using a multimeter. I
wasn't able to get a reading with my semi-random attempts to set the meter
correctly. Guess I'll have to break out the instruction manual, which I
fortunately saved.

Thanks again, all!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 07:57:31 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/OmeCTNzlAMvwXT4KbCCFnEWFaGQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood Lift Mechanism Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I am in need of a used Hood lift mechanism for a customer's TR3  

Moss part No. 802-620

If anybody has one for sale, please contact me.

Thank you,

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 11:06:08 2014
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 13:07:52 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Met some of our folks at VTR
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Was really nice to put some names with faces this week @ VTR in NC.  So
glad to see such a nice turnout for the event my club is hosting.

After some  unexpected delays, the hill climb went off with Marty Sukey's
Spitfire leading the test runs up the course.

We had 3 glorious ladies from Texas take to the hill climb and it was so
much fun seeing these triumphs from the 1930's take to the course.  I even
got to tech one -  a 1936 Gloria Southern Cross - wow!

Lots of beautiful cars here and though I've been working super long days,
 it's been a pleasure to tech  cars and get a chance to talk to their
owners and poke around their beautiful cars. We even got a chance to do a
few repairs we found during tech.   Loose steering column due to worn grub
screw, overheating from too lean mixture, one TR6 was running on the rear
carb only, leaky intake, and a few more.   I left greasy and tired, but
that's all in a days work.

Never seen so many TR8's in one place!!

Chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 11:14:48 2014
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 13:14:58 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive or Negative Earth
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I have a nice Fluke I keep in the garage,  the rest of my triumphs have the
harbor freight meter in the trunk. Most/all of them were bought with free
coupons.  I'll  keep picking them up as more free coupons become available
as spares.

I also keep a test light with alligator leads to do simple testing, one LED
version for polarity and one incandescent flavor for a bit more load
current.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 11:56:59 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 10:59:29 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Positive Ground It Is!
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Looks like I need a new multimeter. I followed everyone's instructions (and
the manual's as well) and couldn't get a reading of any kind. I wasn't able to
test the meter on my more modern car because the positive lead was sealed up
tight, I'm guessing for safety.

But at Dave's suggestion, I took a closer look at the battery and found
markings behind the posts. I've got a positive earth car! Thanks again for
everyone's help. Now I can order some LED tail lights. Any recommendations
about going with an electronic flasher or LED load resistor. I'm leaning
towards the latter....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 12:02:45 2014
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 14:03:35 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

So, my speedometer is next on the list of things to be fettled...it
bounces around quite a bit.  I've lubricated the cables (sparingly!)
in the past, without much success, so I'm willing to replace them.

So, I know on my spitfire I can buy the UK-spec cable and eliminate
the service counter.  Can I use the early TR6 cable in a 1975 car to
do the same, or is there no advantage/some potential unforeseen
downside?

Or should I just buy the upper and lower cables (on sale now) and be
done with it?

Or should I grow this small problem into a large one by taking apart
and cleaning the instrument itself?  Because I'm not afraid to get in
well over my head...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 12:30:51 2014
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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 18:33:23 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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Well, it will of course depend on what is wrong.  Eliminated the service
counter would eliminate one variable.

Have you tried turning the cable with a
drill to see if it bounces that way?  You could disconnect at the service
counter and turn there, if that looks good repeat at the transmission end.

It
could be the speed itself.  If it is, I think the most likely cause would be
the odometer sticking a bit.

I also came across this site while back, NFI but
looks like he can make up whatever you need with all the proper ends:
http://www.vintagebritishcables.com

-Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 12:33:39 2014
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 13:36:05 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Met some of our folks at VTR
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow.  Sorry I can't be there.  Hope 2015 is in a good place and time for me!

On your way home, look for the Lotus cars coming in for the LOG in
Asheville.

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 12:07 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> Was really nice to put some names with faces this week @ VTR in NC.  So
> glad to see such a nice turnout for the event my club is hosting.
>
> After some  unexpected delays, the hill climb went off with Marty Sukey's
> Spitfire leading the test runs up the course.
>
> We had 3 glorious ladies from Texas take to the hill climb and it was so
> much fun seeing these triumphs from the 1930's take to the course.  I even
> got to tech one -  a 1936 Gloria Southern Cross - wow!
>
> Lots of beautiful cars here and though I've been working super long days,
>  it's been a pleasure to tech  cars and get a chance to talk to their
> owners and poke around their beautiful cars. We even got a chance to do a
> few repairs we found during tech.   Loose steering column due to worn grub
> screw, overheating from too lean mixture, one TR6 was running on the rear
> carb only, leaky intake, and a few more.   I left greasy and tired, but
> that's all in a days work.
>
> Never seen so many TR8's in one place!!
>
> Chris
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7@gmail.com
>



-- 
pethier@comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 12:36:57 2014
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 11:39:24 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive Ground It Is!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 10:59 AM, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
wrote:


>  ....Any recommendations
> about going with an electronic flasher or LED load resistor.



I used load resistors just because I want to keep the original Lucas
flasher.  I used these:

http://goo.gl/QUSSAA

I used a bullet connector to tie them into the harness w/o cutting or
modification, and a lug on the other end for that ground point that the
lights already use.  That's a magnet affixed to the base of one so it can
be secured out of sight on the inner wing:

http://goo.gl/fahDah

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 12:38:11 2014
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAO8Q7CMAGnf_M_WfangaJn=r7ts=vvq8fagDc43O1t-eDpExew@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A custom built cable is another option and they're not that expensive. 
Morris at West Valley (http://westvalleyinstruments.com/) builds them to the 
proper spec for tip size which is critical. If the tip specs are off it can 
cause all sorts of problems and potential damage to the gauge.

Read through this page on my site 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm) and you'll see 
the tip specs as well as a pdf on rebuilding your speedo.  My preference was 
to have Morris re-calibrate and refurbish my speedo as the price was right 
and his turn around time is quick and always on time.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)
Subject: [TR] Speedometer Cable

So, my speedometer is next on the list of things to be fettled...it
bounces around quite a bit.  I've lubricated the cables (sparingly!)
in the past, without much success, so I'm willing to replace them.

So, I know on my spitfire I can buy the UK-spec cable and eliminate
the service counter.  Can I use the early TR6 cable in a 1975 car to
do the same, or is there no advantage/some potential unforeseen
downside?

Or should I just buy the upper and lower cables (on sale now) and be
done with it?

Or should I grow this small problem into a large one by taking apart
and cleaning the instrument itself?  Because I'm not afraid to get in
well over my head...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 12:51:03 2014
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 11:53:05 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Met some of our folks at VTR
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Good to hear about it, sorry to miss it.  I realize there are some who
would not stint at a 4000 mile drive but that is a bit more than I can do.

My good friend Ben Cohen from here in Tucson will be hanging out at some of
the event, probably the show  Ben has an extraordinary collection of
British cars including an AC Ace, an Elva, a couple of Lotus 7s and much
more.  After 40 years of LBC ownership he finally got his first Triumph a
few weeks ago.

With no car in the show he'll be wandering around like a guy who couldn't
get a date for the dance -- so if you meet him please make him feel welcome
and ask about his Triumph,  If the 2015 VTR is west of the Rockies I will
try to get both of us there.

Geo

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 10:07 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> Was really nice to put some names with faces this week @ VTR in NC.  So
> glad to see such a nice turnout for the event my club is hosting.
>
> After some  unexpected delays, the hill climb went off with Marty Sukey's
> Spitfire leading the test runs up the course.
>
> We had 3 glorious ladies from Texas take to the hill climb and it was so
> much fun seeing these triumphs from the 1930's take to the course.  I even
> got to tech one -  a 1936 Gloria Southern Cross - wow!
>
> Lots of beautiful cars here and though I've been working super long days,
>  it's been a pleasure to tech  cars and get a chance to talk to their
> owners and poke around their beautiful cars. We even got a chance to do a
> few repairs we found during tech.   Loose steering column due to worn grub
> screw, overheating from too lean mixture, one TR6 was running on the rear
> carb only, leaky intake, and a few more.   I left greasy and tired, but
> that's all in a days work.
>
> Never seen so many TR8's in one place!!
>
> Chris
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <B271CE90-CFD2-436E-9FDA-0F33A7D176E9@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 15:53:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] electronic flasher
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napa sells a digital flasher that works quite well.  used it when I 
converted to Litezupp.com LED's a few years ago.

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg

Now I can order some LED tail lights. Any recommendations
about going with an electronic flasher or LED load resistor. I'm leaning
towards the latter.... 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 15:54:02 2014
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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 21:56:16 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] electronic flasher
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---- dave n <dave@ranteer.com> wrote: 
> napa sells a digital flasher that works quite well.  used it when I 
> converted to Litezupp.com LED's a few years ago.
> 
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg

That's a 2-terminal flasher, so I'm guessing you have a later TR.  The 3-terminal equivalent for the earlier TRs is a Tridon EL13, which I found to be readily available at Autozone & O'Reillys.  (Around here, NAPA charges more and closes before I get off work, I don't shop there unless the discount stores don't have it.)

> Now I can order some LED tail lights. Any recommendations
> about going with an electronic flasher or LED load resistor. I'm leaning
> towards the latter.... 

I actually use both, because of the way I have my turn signals wired to double as brake lights.  The EL13 also works well with incandescent bulbs, and I currently have a mix of LED and incandescent (trying out my own LED designs).  But for just a simple LED conversion, I'd go with the electronic flasher.  If you keep an old type flasher, and the resistor (or the wire to it) fails, then your turn signals don't work.  It's an extra point of failure.  Granted, resistors very rarely fail; but it does happen.

- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2014 22:02:03 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, 
 Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
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Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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---- Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote: 

> Or should I grow this small problem into a large one by taking apart
> and cleaning the instrument itself?  Because I'm not afraid to get in
> well over my head...

My guess is that the speedo is the problem anyway.  If the cable was in such bad shape that it was winding up and unwinding for no reason, I think you would have noticed while lubricating it.  But the odometer and trip meter mechanisms both put periodic loads on the cable.  So if they are stiff and binding, the extra load will cause even a new cable to wind up while the ratchet arm is turning the wheel, and then unwind when it retracts.

Check out Tony Rhodes' article on speedo rebuilding.  If it looks like more than you want to tackle, then there are several services around that will do it for you, for a price of course.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 12 16:33:06 2014
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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Positive Ground It Is!
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---- Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote: 

> But at Dave's suggestion, I took a closer look at the battery and found
> markings behind the posts. I've got a positive earth car! Thanks again for
> everyone's help. Now I can order some LED tail lights. 

Apologies if this is too obvious for words: Now would be the time to consider whether you want to stay opposite to the rest of the world or convert to negative ground.  We're fortunate to have Litezupp that makes positive ground LED bulbs; but the vast majority of aftermarket accessories are strictly negative ground.  Even just adding an outlet to charge your cell phone is extra hassle with positive ground.

I once saw a buddy burn up the wiring harness in his MGA, because it didn't occur to him that the CB radio he had borrowed had a (negative) ground path through the antenna clamp.  It worked at first, because the bumper bolts were too rusty to conduct.  So we were hundreds of miles from home when the one of the bolts rubbed through the rust and the cockpit filled with smoke rolling down the freeway.  You might say it made an impression on me!

The conversion from positive to negative ground is pretty trivial on the TR2-4.  Just swap the wires at the coil, ammeter and battery; then repolarize the generator.  If you forgot to swap at the coil, you'd probably never notice the difference.  And if you forget to swap at the ammeter, it just reads backwards.

Repolarizing the generator sounds scary, but it's trivial as well.  Just pull the wire off the 'F' terminal at the control box, and brush it against the 'A' terminal next to it.  You'll see some small sparks to tell you the connection was made.  Then put the wire back on 'F', close the hood and take a drive.

- Randall

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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 17:15:19 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
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Ok, so where will the 2015 VTR convention be held?

 

Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 16:23:07 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 2015 VTR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Fontana, WI. Hosted by ISOA. August 11-14.

Irv Korey
Highland Park, IL
On Sep 13, 2014 5:16 PM, "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6@optonline.net> wrote:

> Ok, so where will the 2015 VTR convention be held?
>
>
>
> Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 14:53:14 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 2015 VTR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The website:  http://www.vtr2015.com/

Geo

On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
wrote:

> Ok, so where will the 2015 VTR convention be held?
>
>
>
> Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 17:26:19 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Suggestions for leaky gearbox
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All,

The time has come for me to address a leaky gearbox.
Its the standard gearbox for a TR4A, with the A-type overdrive.

Its been leaking for a while now, but has just reached the point of being bad
enough for me to do anything about it.
I suspect the leak is occurring in one or both gaskets on either side of  the
overdrive unit.
If that is the case, is there something I could put around the gaskets to stop
the leak?
I am looking for anything to avoid pulling it out and replacing them.

Thanks in advance for all suggestions.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 13 17:37:03 2014
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 16:36:35 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for leaky gearbox
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 3:26 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com> wrote:


> ... I suspect the leak is occurring in one or both gaskets on either side
> of  the overdrive unit.
> If that is the case, is there something I could put around the gaskets to
> stop the leak?
> I am looking for anything to avoid pulling it out and replacing them.



Is your primary concern  1) you will get too low on lube?  2) the amount of
lube you must buy & add to keep the level up? or 3) the mess this creates?

Since you are thinking of a Band-Aid fix perhaps it is #3 in which case I
have seen some car owners address a small but persistent leak with a simple
metal bracket that holds a highly absorbent material against the leak.
Will require changing from time to time.

The usual absorbent material used for this is available in the Health &
Beauty area of your favorite store though you may want your wife or
girlfriend to pick it up for you.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 13 17:55:02 2014
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <E7B054EE-8958-4647-B70A-1C19AB188116@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 19:57:15 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for leaky gearbox
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My OD box leaked there as well. The last time it was out I replaced the 
Adapter Plate with one of the new thicker plates and I used Hylomar sealant. 
The leaks are greatly reduced and in a years time I have not added any oil 
to the box. Just checked the level before driving to VTR in NC and it had 
been a year since last checked. Maybe 6,000 miles between checks. I was 
pleased.
But sadly unless you can just tighten some fasteners you'll need to pull the 
trans if the leak is too bad. How frequently do you check and add oil and 
how much do you need to add each time?
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 6:26 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Suggestions for leaky gearbox

All,

The time has come for me to address a leaky gearbox.
Its the standard gearbox for a TR4A, with the A-type overdrive.

Its been leaking for a while now, but has just reached the point of being 
bad
enough for me to do anything about it.
I suspect the leak is occurring in one or both gaskets on either side of 
the
overdrive unit.
If that is the case, is there something I could put around the gaskets to 
stop
the leak?
I am looking for anything to avoid pulling it out and replacing them.

Thanks in advance for all suggestions.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 13 18:57:07 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 17:59:48 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/PocR5Ln8eFLqXS1WOC7Bxvnpo0AAFG+RQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for leaky gearbox
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> I suspect the leak is occurring in one or both gaskets on 
> either side of  the
> overdrive unit.
> If that is the case, is there something I could put around 
> the gaskets to stop
> the leak?
> I am looking for anything to avoid pulling it out and replacing them.

I had some success with "buttering" the entire area with one of the heavier bodied RTV compounds.  Permatex Ultra Black IIRC.

I started by draining it entirely, then cleaning thoroughly with spray solvent and paper towels.  Laid the RTV on thick and wide,
then waited for it to harden fully (not just skin over) before refilling.

As I recall, I drove for over a year that way without having to add oil.  Then something else happened and I pulled it out for a
rebuild.

- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 13 20:56:16 2014
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Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 19:58:26 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: triumph list list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Flasher burnout
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've burned through 4 flasher units over the past year or so.  What gives?
Yesterday I checked to make sure all bulbs are correct. Flasher worked
perfectly in the driveway with engine off.  Once I drove away, the unit
quickly failed.
I now have the unit's socket jumped with a wire from the X to L. The signal
lights can be waggled by the switch.
Is there a voltage surge of some sort? The unit definitely overheats and
becomes too hot too touch.  Does that mean I should not run with the jumper
wire?
I've been using a Wathem so-called Heavy Duty Flasher 550. Wouldn't expect
this to be the problem. Not with four having burnt out.
Voltage regulator?

Many thanks for your help, as always.

John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 13 21:40:05 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Lee&John Howard'" <leejohn7@gmail.com>, "'triumph list list'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 20:42:22 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/Px8LCEeH81KEJTSCRoRloO3DQZQABSldA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Flasher burnout
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> I've burned through 4 flasher units over the past year or so. 
>  What gives?

What are you using for fuses?

I'm thinking there must be an intermittent short in the turn signal wiring, but normally that would pop the fuse.  However, if
you've got an AGC 35 in there, the flasher might burn up instead.

Could still be something like that, so I might try putting an 5 amp fuse in the jumper; drive around a bit with first one side and
then the other on constantly and see if/when it blows.  Or better yet, since it evidently takes about 3 months to happen, add the
fuse in series with the flasher semi-permanently.

- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 14 07:17:27 2014
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From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>
To: TR owners List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 08:20:07 -0500
References: <CAJaD1DOxPaev=cSZWV8TzDUJ_XEhLhV9m9-VkKV2qK9qeX1_6g@mail.gmail.com>,
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Flasher burnout
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would modify Randall's idea and put a fuse in both legs at the same time and
cut the troubleshooting time in half.

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!


> From: TR3driver@ca.rr.com
> To: leejohn7@gmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2014 20:42:22 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Flasher burnout
>
> > I've burned through 4 flasher units over the past year or so.
> >  What gives?
>
> What are you using for fuses?
>
> I'm thinking there must be an intermittent short in the turn signal wiring,
but normally that would pop the fuse.  However, if
> you've got an AGC 35 in there, the flasher might burn up instead.
>
> Could still be something like that, so I might try putting an 5 amp fuse in
the jumper; drive around a bit with first one side and
> then the other on constantly and see if/when it blows.  Or better yet, since
it evidently takes about 3 months to happen, add the
> fuse in series with the flasher semi-permanently.
>
> - Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com

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From: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 19:10:56 -0500
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
 nass@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 Mech fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone know how much fuel I should get out of the mechanical pump when
cranking the engine for 30 seconds?

I'm trying to test my pump.

Bob Berger

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 14 20:52:26 2014
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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 22:55:06 -0400
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
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To: nass@yahoogroups.com, "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F464ACC9-388A-4606-BAE3-2B7C0BA22984@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] >>NASS  Spitfire 1500 Mech fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The volume will depend on the actual rpm (number of pumps) and whether 
the pump is fully releasing all the gas in it.

your mechanical pump lever, which rides on the cam lobe, pulls gas into 
the pump when the lever is driven into (pushed towards) the pump as such.
. From there the fuel is only spring pressure pushed up to the carbs.
It takes about 6-12 pump cycles to fill a pair of HS4 float chambers.  
(depends on the actuall pump version)
On the units with the lever at the bottom, manually pumping the lever it 
should start getting easy once the bowls fill as you are no longer 
pulling gas from the tank as the pump has not emptied from the last pump 
stroke once the floats/needle valve close the bowls off.

ptegler

On 9/14/2014 8:10 PM, Berger Bob bberger720@sbcglobal.net [nass] wrote:
> Does anyone know how much fuel I should get out of the mechanical pump when cranking the engine for 30 seconds?
>
> I'm trying to test my pump.
>
> Bob Berger
> 78 Spitfire
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
> ------------------------------------
>
>>> To unsubscribe send an empty email to: nass-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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> ------------------------------------
>
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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 20:41:46 -0700
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] How did the British become an empire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

After doing the relatively easy job of changing my clutch MC and slave, I wonder.  Of course, having enough space UNDER the car would have helped; a couple concrete blocks and 2"x8"s gives just enough room to slide under a TR6.  I was going to brave trying to change the thrust washers but all those nuts to be loosened,,,,,,,, Maybe next winter.  A lot of grease and grime under there.  Discovered a rusted floorboard and have a novel idea for repairing it.  Will report on that as it moves along.  It is hot as h--- here in Florida in the summer.  British empire?  Maybe they were genius's being able to get all those bolts so well hidden or in such difficult to reach places.  Anyway, mechanics who work on these things earn their pay!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 09:53:18 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 08:55:38 -0700
References: <20140912223550.32OMQ.366744.root@cdptpa-web21>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Positive Ground It Is!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Randall. As you've probably gathered from some of my posts, nothing is
too obvious for me at this stage!

> On 12 Sep 2014, at 3:35 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> ---- Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote:
>
>> But at Dave's suggestion, I took a closer look at the battery and found
>> markings behind the posts. I've got a positive earth car! Thanks again for
>> everyone's help. Now I can order some LED tail lights.
>
> Apologies if this is too obvious for words: Now would be the time to
consider whether you want to stay opposite to the rest of the world or convert
to negative ground.  We're fortunate to have Litezupp that makes positive
ground LED bulbs; but the vast majority of aftermarket accessories are
strictly negative ground.  Even just adding an outlet to charge your cell
phone is extra hassle with positive ground.
>
> I once saw a buddy burn up the wiring harness in his MGA, because it didn't
occur to him that the CB radio he had borrowed had a (negative) ground path
through the antenna clamp.  It worked at first, because the bumper bolts were
too rusty to conduct.  So we were hundreds of miles from home when the one of
the bolts rubbed through the rust and the cockpit filled with smoke rolling
down the freeway.  You might say it made an impression on me!
>
> The conversion from positive to negative ground is pretty trivial on the
TR2-4.  Just swap the wires at the coil, ammeter and battery; then repolarize
the generator.  If you forgot to swap at the coil, you'd probably never notice
the difference.  And if you forget to swap at the ammeter, it just reads
backwards.
>
> Repolarizing the generator sounds scary, but it's trivial as well.  Just
pull the wire off the 'F' terminal at the control box, and brush it against
the 'A' terminal next to it.  You'll see some small sparks to tell you the
connection was made.  Then put the wire back on 'F', close the hood and take a
drive.
>
> - Randall




-- Jeff

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 14:38:08 2014
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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 16:33:58 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - rocker shaft install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
Just about to re-torque head bolts and wondering if there is a more easy 
and positive way to re- install the rocker shaft? Worried about loading 
the pushrods and possibly damaging them; also asking about an easier way 
to start setting valve clearances with all rockers backed off.
Would leaving the engine at TDC on #1 compression before removing shaft, 
then starting here help the process?
Looking for any tips on this job. Unfortunately, I have a solid re-cored 
rad and have lost my hand cranking feature. Have to bump & grind engine 
through the partial revolutions to find the sweet spots.
Thanks for any guidance and tips on this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 14:52:37 2014
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 16:49:19 -0400
References: <mailman.17.1410804003.17248.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Cc: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] How did the British become an empire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sep 14, 2014, at 8:41 PM, John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com> wrote:

> After doing the relatively easy job of changing my clutch MC and slave, I
wonder.  Of course, having enough space UNDER the car would have helped; a
couple concrete blocks and 2"x8"s gives just enough room to slide under a TR6.
I was going to brave trying to change the thrust washers but all those nuts to
be loosened,,,,,,,, Maybe next winter.  A lot of grease and grime under there.
Discovered a rusted floorboard and have a novel idea for repairing it.  Will
report on that as it moves along.  It is hot as h--- here in Florida in the
summer.  British empire?  Maybe they were genius's being able to get all those
bolts so well hidden or in such difficult to reach places.  Anyway, mechanics
who work on these things earn their pay!
>
Concrete blocks are not a good way to support your car if you plan to work
under it - unless it is your plan to bequeath the car on to a new owner. Get
yourself some axle stands if you plan to work under there.


Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 16:05:08 -0500
References: <54174D36.1010207@execulink.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - rocker shaft install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Angelo,

Couple of thoughts here

Back the valve lash screws all the way off to give 100% clearance when bolting
the rocker shaft in place.
Once installed, you can go about tightening them down as you set the valve
lash.

Also, take the car out of gear and turn the engine by hand, using the cooling
fan.
This will allow you to get the #1 at TDC on the compression stoke easy
enough.


On Sep 15, 2014, at 3:33 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
> Just about to re-torque head bolts and wondering if there is a more easy and
positive way to re- install the rocker shaft? Worried about loading the
pushrods and possibly damaging them; also asking about an easier way to start
setting valve clearances with all rockers backed off.
> Would leaving the engine at TDC on #1 compression before removing shaft,
then starting here help the process?
> Looking for any tips on this job. Unfortunately, I have a solid re-cored rad
and have lost my hand cranking feature. Have to bump & grind engine through
the partial revolutions to find the sweet spots.
> Thanks for any guidance and tips on this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 14:13:12 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - rocker shaft install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Angelo -

I'm no expert but I have always just rested the rockers on the tops of the
pushrods and pressed down enough to start all the nuts.  Then just
tightened them evenly letting the works settled in wherever they happened
to be.  Just be sure the pushrods are seated well in the lifters and
matching well to the rockers.

To adjust them I don't trust my memory so I use this chart which has been
in the lid of the tool chest for the last 40 years or so:

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/ValveAdjust_zps606664c7.jpg

I just start wherever the engine happens to be and go through the
sequence.  The hand crank is handy but w/o one it is still pretty easy to
turn the engine in a controlled fashion by putting it in 4th and pushing on
the top of the left front tire (gives you 2:1 leverage).  Having the plugs
out helps a lot of course.

After I'm all done I go through one more cycle (two revolutions) feeling
the rockers at each setting since if something is terribly wrong it is
pretty easy to feel if one is out of adjustment compared to the others.
Only change from that chart is that I now set the exhaust valves to .012"
to give some margin of error as I take a couple of 1200 miles trips each
year at highway speed and think/hope that gives some additional protection.

Geo

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
wrote:

> Hello List:
> Just about to re-torque head bolts and wondering if there is a more easy
> and positive way to re- install the rocker shaft? Worried about loading the
> pushrods and possibly damaging them; also asking about an easier way to
> start setting valve clearances with all rockers backed off.
> Would leaving the engine at TDC on #1 compression before removing shaft,
> then starting here help the process?
> Looking for any tips on this job. Unfortunately, I have a solid re-cored
> rad and have lost my hand cranking feature. Have to bump & grind engine
> through the partial revolutions to find the sweet spots.
> Thanks for any guidance and tips on this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Valve Adjust.JPG]

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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
To: "Angelo Graham" <agraham@execulink.com>
References: <54174D36.1010207@execulink.com>
 <0F61374F-8947-472F-9CE4-AB97C1CC3BCA@genfiniti.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 17:15:49 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - rocker shaft install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Or leave the car in gear and roll the car to move the engine.  Can be very 
precise if you have the room for the car to move.

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 5:05 PM
To: Angelo Graham
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - rocker shaft install

Angelo,

Couple of thoughts here

Back the valve lash screws all the way off to give 100% clearance when 
bolting
the rocker shaft in place.
Once installed, you can go about tightening them down as you set the valve
lash.

Also, take the car out of gear and turn the engine by hand, using the 
cooling
fan.
This will allow you to get the #1 at TDC on the compression stoke easy
enough.


On Sep 15, 2014, at 3:33 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
> Just about to re-torque head bolts and wondering if there is a more easy 
> and
positive way to re- install the rocker shaft? Worried about loading the
pushrods and possibly damaging them; also asking about an easier way to 
start
setting valve clearances with all rockers backed off.
> Would leaving the engine at TDC on #1 compression before removing shaft,
then starting here help the process?
> Looking for any tips on this job. Unfortunately, I have a solid re-cored 
> rad
and have lost my hand cranking feature. Have to bump & grind engine through
the partial revolutions to find the sweet spots.
> Thanks for any guidance and tips on this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 22:28:46 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 22:28:46 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - rocker shaft install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 
> Worried about loading 
> the pushrods and possibly damaging them; 

The only concern here is that you don't want to have an adjuster set too long and get the spring into coil bind.  That can't happen if the valve is closed.  So just back off on the couple of adjusters where the pushrod is visibly high.  Or you can just keep an eye on the valve spring coils as you gradually tighten the rocker shaft nuts, and back off on any that are getting close to coil bind.

If you are putting back the same shaft that came off, without disturbing the adjustments (eg after re-torquing head nuts), then don't even worry about it.  The adjustments will already be within a few .001", too close to run into problems.

My favorite method for setting valves is to turn the engine with the starter until one cylinder is very close to where the exhaust is closing and the intake opening (the overlap period).  That means the cylinder that is opposite in the firing sequence is ready to have it's valves adjusted.  So if, for example, #1 comes up on overlap, adjust #4.  Then go a half revolution until #3 is on overlap, and adjust #2.  Another half turn and #4 will be on overlap, so set #1.  Once more, #2 on overlap, set #3.

Randall

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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 02:30:29 -0700
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without breaking)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I remember using a small torch to heat the screw up slightly red hot, then using a long wrench about 11 mm. Any other methods?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Checkout car #5.

http://tinyurl.com/ojaasxv

Dave

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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 06:06:03 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without  breaking)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Some penetrant (like PBlaster) might be helpful.  I use a six point socket
for the initial loosening if I am expecting trouble.

A mini-impact working of the wrench (as opposed to a heavy-handed turning)
can have better results.

Going forward, I think keeping rubber caps on the bleeders reduces the
chance of future problems.

Geo

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:30 AM, JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I remember using a small torch to heat the screw up slightly red hot, then
> using a long wrench about 11 mm. Any other methods?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1410859829.26153.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <CANzE1bFmWytFXctfx_p66cNQn=CTO5cZZWv1ZZPWxFSi=iA06A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 09:34:42 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without   breaking)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Use lots of penetrant and give it time to work.  The bleeder is fairly soft 
metal and will shear off easily.  I just broke on on my TR3 a few weeks ago. 
Definitely use a socket.  Wouldn't hurt to put some PB in the inside of the 
caliper to get to the bleeder from the other side.  They normally stick 
because of rust between the caliper and the bleeder.  If you do break it off 
it is still possible to remove the remainder so don't give up.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:06 AM
To: JOSEPH MATO
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without breaking)

Some penetrant (like PBlaster) might be helpful.  I use a six point socket
for the initial loosening if I am expecting trouble.

A mini-impact working of the wrench (as opposed to a heavy-handed turning)
can have better results.

Going forward, I think keeping rubber caps on the bleeders reduces the
chance of future problems.

Geo

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:30 AM, JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I remember using a small torch to heat the screw up slightly red hot, then
> using a long wrench about 11 mm. Any other methods?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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References: <1410859829.26153.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
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 <52C2CDA211BD497595D6BD9D08A12DE3@HomePC>
From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 08:39:19 -0500
To: Pete Ryner <pryner@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without breaking)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you break it off AND break off the easy-out, you bleed the system by
putting a tray under the wheel and loosening the break line until winter when
you take it all to a good machine shop.  BTDT.

BILL

Sent from mobile Bill

On Sep 16, 2014, at 8:34 AM, "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net> wrote:

Use lots of penetrant and give it time to work.  The bleeder is fairly soft
metal and will shear off easily.  I just broke on on my TR3 a few weeks ago.
Definitely use a socket.  Wouldn't hurt to put some PB in the inside of the
caliper to get to the bleeder from the other side.  They normally stick
because of rust between the caliper and the bleeder.  If you do break it off
it is still possible to remove the remainder so don't give up.
Pete

-----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:06 AM
To: JOSEPH MATO
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without breaking)

Some penetrant (like PBlaster) might be helpful.  I use a six point socket
for the initial loosening if I am expecting trouble.

A mini-impact working of the wrench (as opposed to a heavy-handed turning)
can have better results.

Going forward, I think keeping rubber caps on the bleeders reduces the
chance of future problems.

Geo

> On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:30 AM, JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I remember using a small torch to heat the screw up slightly red hot, then
> using a long wrench about 11 mm. Any other methods?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 16 15:17:28 2014
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 21:17:31 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1410859829.26153.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <CANzE1bFmWytFXctfx_p66cNQn=CTO5cZZWv1ZZPWxFSi=iA06A@mail.gmail.com>
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Thread-Topic: Break in Oil
Thread-Index: rPGQHx9tUwg5Odgb3gKm4dwRnJnIjw==
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Subject: [TR] Break in Oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Okay.  I rebuilt my TR3A stock engine, used 30 weight non-detergent for a break in period, then switched to Mobil 1 fully synthetic.  All good.
Then...engine was overheating.  Investigation led to a cylinder sleeve that the machine shop cracked when honing (I say honing because they didn't remove the lip at the top).
Removed and replaced the cylinder sleeves and the now scored pistons.  
Question:  I've been running the same full synthetic oil.  But what does that mean for seating the new rings?  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 16 16:32:14 2014
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 16:34:34 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: terryrs@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1410859829.26153.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <CANzE1bFmWytFXctfx_p66cNQn=CTO5cZZWv1ZZPWxFSi=iA06A@mail.gmail.com>
 <72970887.3542073.1410902251801.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Break in Oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

a ridge at the top of the bore won't necessarily score the piston. It's 
more likely that the ring gap was too small. I use 0.04" per inch of 
bore. So at ~3.5 inch bore one should have 0.14" +/- a thou. gap.
Dave P.
On 9/16/2014 3:17 PM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> Okay.  I rebuilt my TR3A stock engine, used 30 weight non-detergent for a break in period, then switched to Mobil 1 fully synthetic.  All good.
> Then...engine was overheating.  Investigation led to a cylinder sleeve that the machine shop cracked when honing (I say honing because they didn't remove the lip at the top).
> Removed and replaced the cylinder sleeves and the now scored pistons.
> Question:  I've been running the same full synthetic oil.  But what does that mean for seating the new rings?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 18:25:40 -0700
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] heater control valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Newly restored tr-3 with over-hauled engine.  Installed new heater control valve.  Was getting NO heat to heater when engine was fully warmed up.  (could grab heater hoses with bare hands.....very very lukewarm).  I then fully closed the heater control valve and re-opened.  Results were that I got heat again and hoses were almost too hot to hold.  Since then I felt the hoses and they were very warm but didn't feel quit at hot.

I just have a simple question.  Does anyone know how the internals of the heater control valve are made?  Is the shaft that screws up and down fastened to something that blocks the water flow and possibly could come loose?  I'm wondering if the shaft and whatever blocks the water in the valve are no longer fastened  (or are loose/floppy) that could explain why I might have differing amounts of heating through the heater.  


Just wondering.

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 16 19:50:05 2014
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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1410917140.77368.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 21:52:48 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] heater control valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,
I just happened to have mine removed and looked at the internals.  At the 
bottom of the screw stem is a flat piece that seals the against the bottom 
of the valve and seals it when closed.  When the stem is unscrewed (open) 
the flat piece comes up with the stem and allows water to pass below the 
piece into the horizontal tube.  If you take the horizontal tube off of the 
valve you should be able to see if the sealing part has become disconnected 
which would restrict the water.  You can also see if the horizontal valve 
has rust in it and has become clogged which is normal as the tube is steel. 
The other option is to just remove the top part of the valve which easily 
unscrews from the body to check the inside.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] heater control valve

Newly restored tr-3 with over-hauled engine.  Installed new heater control 
valve.  Was getting NO heat to heater when engine was fully warmed up. 
(could grab heater hoses with bare hands.....very very lukewarm).  I then 
fully closed the heater control valve and re-opened.  Results were that I 
got heat again and hoses were almost too hot to hold.  Since then I felt the 
hoses and they were very warm but didn't feel quit at hot.

I just have a simple question.  Does anyone know how the internals of the 
heater control valve are made?  Is the shaft that screws up and down 
fastened to something that blocks the water flow and possibly could come 
loose?  I'm wondering if the shaft and whatever blocks the water in the 
valve are no longer fastened  (or are loose/floppy) that could explain why I 
might have differing amounts of heating through the heater.


Just wondering.

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner@verizon.net 

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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 21:57:39 -0500
To: terryrs@comcast.net,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <1410859829.26153.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <CANzE1bFmWytFXctfx_p66cNQn=CTO5cZZWv1ZZPWxFSi=iA06A@mail.gmail.com>
 <72970887.3542073.1410902251801.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Break in Oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

New rings won't seat with Synthetic Oil.  You need to run Dino juice 
for some time first, even if it's just one cylinder.

Tony Drews

At 04:17 PM 9/16/2014, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
>Okay.  I rebuilt my TR3A stock engine, used 30 weight non-detergent 
>for a break in period, then switched to Mobil 1 fully synthetic.  All good.
>Then...engine was overheating.  Investigation led to a cylinder 
>sleeve that the machine shop cracked when honing (I say honing 
>because they didn't remove the lip at the top).
>Removed and replaced the cylinder sleeves and the now scored pistons.
>Question:  I've been running the same full synthetic oil.  But what 
>does that mean for seating the new rings?
>
>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>New Hampshire
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2014 14:25:47 -0500
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 2015 VTR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The VTR 2015 website was online right after Geo's note, but has been
offline since then.  Anyone have an ETA for its return?

On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 4:53 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> The website:  http://www.vtr2015.com/
>
> Geo
>
> On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Ok, so where will the 2015 VTR convention be held?
> >
> >
> >
> > Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 18 06:55:33 2014
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2014 06:51:50 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I get so disappointed sometimes.. I want to replace the Rotoflex 
couplers on my new GT6 acquisition and was ready to "check out" on the 
suppliers site till the shipping charges added another $22 to the bill. 
Granted they probably don't sell a lot of them, but they already took 
care of that issue with the each price. USPS will do it for about $10.
  I was going to "contact us" first to find out the Country of origin, 
but decided I should be glad to even find the parts let alone grouse 
about the details. On the other hand, I have to do this everyday and I'm 
aware of all the consequential scenarios that often occur and it pisses 
me off to continually bite the bullet to buy a simple part.
  Rant over, so anyone have a pair of NOS or good used ones they'd like 
to sell? I'll pay shipping too.;-)
Dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 19 11:41:54 2014
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2014 13:49:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Suggestions on a good torque wrench
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Slightly off topic but a friend of mine is looking to buy a torque wrench and
I was wondering if anybody has had any experience with Harbor Freight's
version? I think he would need both ft/lbs and inch/lbs as this is for a
Harley Davidson. Apparently they shake a bit and stuff falls off..
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 19 11:57:12 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>, Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2014 13:52:29 -0400
References: <80F836AECB6642D6B25A2E0999444CDF@DaveLaptop>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions on a good torque wrench
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I purchased a H.F. inch pounds one last year.  I took it to work where we have
a calibration machine just to see how it tested.  It was not even close.  If I
recall it was off by like 50%.  Mine went back to the store. :)


> From: dconnitt@fuse.net
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2014 13:49:19 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Suggestions on a good torque wrench
>
> Slightly off topic but a friend of mine is looking to buy a torque wrench
and
> I was wondering if anybody has had any experience with Harbor Freight's
> version? I think he would need both ft/lbs and inch/lbs as this is for a
> Harley Davidson. Apparently they shake a bit and stuff falls off..
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 19 13:32:56 2014
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From: "Fisher, Ed" <edwd@ti.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Torque wrench
Thread-Index: Ac/UQNiLQi2U/hfGRs6pwOSvSeadjg==
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2014 19:35:19 +0000
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A buddy of mine bought a Harbor Freight torque wrench and we checked the
calibration against a measurement tool at Texas Instruments.  We found it
within 2%, pretty much linear across the range.   As with any piece of gear
like that, don't drop it, and release the 'load' to zero in-between uses.

Hope this helps.

Ed in Dallas, Tx.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 19 14:57:50 2014
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2014 20:57:59 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
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Subject: Re: [TR] Torque wrench
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---- "Fisher wrote: 
> A buddy of mine bought a Harbor Freight torque wrench 

Of course, the next one may not be the same.  Most of the stuff I've gotten from HF has been pretty decent, but it seems to me that they have no quality control at all.  

For example, the first die grinder I bought tore itself up within seconds.  It's (free) replacement worked fine and still does.  Then there was the socket set where one socket had no teeth.  And the seal puller that snapped on the very first tug.

It's just "luck of the draw", in my opinion.  They figure it's cheaper to have a 10% return rate than to spend 20% more inspecting what they sell beforehand.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 20 07:34:15 2014
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Good morning all.

I was finally getting around to installing the top bows on my TR3 project.
The examples I pulled from the web show that the rear seat back stops
anywhere between about 2-2 1/2" to 3/4-1" below the top of the rear capping
piece.   Mine is almost flush with it.  It is possible that the two layers
of heat/sound insulation and the carpet could account for some of the extra
height but not all.

1) what would be the correct distance?   It would make sense if it is in the
2" range so that the top bows could nestle down below the capping. But that
would be a lot of trimming on the back piece.
2) what is the distance from the front of the flat platform (post 60000
body) to the location of the base of the back piece?   The optional rear
seat has a 12" base/13" cushion (I think the extra is mostly at the back.
3) what is the approximate angle that the seat back bends at the top (mine
is only about 10d) and the pictures I have appear to be closer to 75-80d.

Thanks

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/   (unfortunately Verizon is closing down
the mysite URLs at the end of this year - I need to find an inexpensive web
location and move/rebuild my pages)
Tampa, FL

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 20 07:42:41 2014
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 09:40:51 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat back question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good morning all.  (I am resending with the correct subject - sorry)

I was finally getting around to installing the top bows on my TR3 project.
The examples I pulled from the web show that the rear seat back stops
anywhere between about 2-2 1/2" to 3/4-1" 
below the top of the rear capping piece.   Mine is almost flush with it.  It
is possible that the two layers
of heat/sound insulation and the carpet could account for some of the extra
height but not all.

1) what would be the correct distance?   It would make sense if it is in the
2" range so that the top bows could 
nestle down below the capping. But that would be a lot of trimming on the
back piece.
2) what is the distance from the front of the flat platform (post 60000
body) to the location of the base of the back piece?   The optional rear
seat has a 12" base/13" cushion (I think the extra is mostly at the back.
3) what is the approximate angle that the seat back bends at the top (mine
is only about 10d) 
and the pictures I have appear to be closer to 75-80d.

Thanks

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/   (unfortunately Verizon is closing down
the mysite URLs at the end of this year - I need to find an inexpensive web
location and move/rebuild my pages) Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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 <002401cfd4d7$c8e7df10$5ab79d30$@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 07:35:28 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Torque wrench
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl -

Here is a photo of my rear seat:  http://goo.gl/ztS8OS

It is a pre TS60K so different from yours, but I think all the rear seat
bend back quite a bit along the top edge.  If you do not have enough bend
or the bend begins to high than perhaps the net result would be what you
describe.

Geo



On Sat, Sep 20, 2014 at 6:35 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> Good morning all.
>
> I was finally getting around to installing the top bows on my TR3 project.
> The examples I pulled from the web show that the rear seat back stops
> anywhere between about 2-2 1/2" to 3/4-1" below the top of the rear capping
> piece.   Mine is almost flush with it.  It is possible that the two layers
> of heat/sound insulation and the carpet could account for some of the extra
> height but not all.
>
> 1) what would be the correct distance?   It would make sense if it is in
> the
> 2" range so that the top bows could nestle down below the capping. But that
> would be a lot of trimming on the back piece.
> 2) what is the distance from the front of the flat platform (post 60000
> body) to the location of the base of the back piece?   The optional rear
> seat has a 12" base/13" cushion (I think the extra is mostly at the back.
> 3) what is the approximate angle that the seat back bends at the top (mine
> is only about 10d) and the pictures I have appear to be closer to 75-80d.
>
> Thanks
>
> Carl
> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/   (unfortunately Verizon is closing
> down
> the mysite URLs at the end of this year - I need to find an inexpensive web
> location and move/rebuild my pages)
> Tampa, FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Shucks. My initial idea about massaging saved mail files and getting them into
the missing spots in the archives isn't working as well as I thought. I'll keep
working on it. And another item I want to take care of this weekend are some thank
yous to those who have recently donated to the cause. I'm WAY behind on that!

Have a pleasant weekend.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 18:48:12 -0700
References: <t90X1o00m0NyJgq0190YHk>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Torque wrench
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't buy anything precision from HF. They have a use - sledge hammers,
vices, and disposable tools. I have a parts washer and sandblast cabinet too
(all internals have been replaced in both).  You get what you pay for.
Anybody that expects top quality at 30% cost is deluding themselves

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 14:22:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet

I have a few problems of late with my '64 Triumph, one being the brake lines.
However, yesterday, when I wanted to check the fluid level, the bonnet appears
stuck and wont open. How can I easily determine whether the cable is broken.
Since the release lever does not open it, is there an alternative to opening
it? How frustrating with nice driving weather, and I can't in the TR4.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:31:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast
References: <9Go41o00b0NyJgq01Go7ap>

Look for heat marks/discoloration on your rotors.  

These "hot spots" are work hardened metal and can cause a pulsation. 

If you have them, they can't be machined out.  They can be caused by using a
pad that is too hard.  

I run the softest pads I can find on all my cars.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

----- 

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 03:20:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast

> Just checked the rotor 
> runout and it's
> way out of spec on the right and OK (.005) on the left.
> 
> Should I turn both rotors?

IMO, replace the right, leave the left alone except for breaking the glaze.  If the right rotor warped that badly, then it's almost
certainly a bad casting and will just warp again.

>  They aren't scored; if I turn 
> them must I put in
> new pads?

Should be OK to reuse the old pads, if they look alright.  But since they normally wear out first, changing them now may mean longer
before you change them again.  Kind of depends on what your time is worth to change them.

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 16:22:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY

Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY?


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Craig
72 Triumph TR6

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2014 02:54:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

bought a set about a year ago..... nice but more expensive than the sets 
I've since bought from Sencart.com
<http://www.sencart.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&search_in_description=1&categories_id=&keyword=e10>
..not sure what happened to the pics...but one is still there about 
second fro mthe last row second pic from teh left.
I have sets of red, green, blue, and white.
They are all brighter than the ebay units you mention, and half the cost.
nfi...just a satified experimenter,
I used the green in my Triumph as the speedo and tach already had green 
lenses over the bulbs inside. now at least ALL my gauges are green.

ptegler
On 6/2/2014 5:22 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
> Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed on EBAY?
>
>
>   http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
>

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 02:52:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest
References: <a45c3.5c232e61.40bb6e07@aol.com>

You have to depress the spring steel tab that protrudes from the support
post which prevents the headrest from just sliding out. The tab is located
on the right side of the headrest shaft. Here is what the little tab looks
like that holds them in. The spring action is very stiff. I haven't
figured out what tool is necessary to release it. I tried steel shim stock
and found the tab would puncture it before pressing in. I have these
pictures because I ended up stripping down a seat for recovering.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> Does anybody know how the adjustable headrest on a 1974 TR6 comes  off.
> Got these neat seatbelt guides but I can't figure out if the headrest
> comes
> out or the second option is to cut the guides.  Thanks
> Harry Mague

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 20:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast
References: <3928A0B5-4489-415E-A01C-AEE73E43614E@verizon.net>
 <CAO8Q7CMWKMkFe4ggCcWr8Pc6ELqQWDdN-kYRPoNC+--2XTeiqA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Jeff; basically everything's already in good shape.

The machine shop confirmed what I thought. On rotor was way out of spec and
has to be replaced. Fortunately they are cheap.

> On Jun 2, 2014, at 1:57 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Martin Secrest
> <moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Should I turn both rotors?  They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put
in
>> new pads?
>
> If I recall,t he GT6 rotors are like Spitfire rotors - a solid disk
> without much extra thickness. May not be able to turn the warp out of
> it.
>
> I'd be tempted to replace rotors and pads, and make sure to evaluate
> the cause - is a caliper sticking?  Also a good opportunity to clean
> and grease bearings, replace rubber hoses, etc., if that all hasn't
> already been done recently.
>
> But then, I'm an overkill kind of guy.  If I go ahead and replace
> everything while I'm in there, I don't have to take apart something
> right after I just put it back together.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 13:57:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast
References: <3928A0B5-4489-415E-A01C-AEE73E43614E@verizon.net>

On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Martin Secrest
<moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:

>
> Should I turn both rotors?  They aren't scored; if I turn them must I put in
> new pads?

If I recall,t he GT6 rotors are like Spitfire rotors - a solid disk
without much extra thickness. May not be able to turn the warp out of
it.

I'd be tempted to replace rotors and pads, and make sure to evaluate
the cause - is a caliper sticking?  Also a good opportunity to clean
and grease bearings, replace rubber hoses, etc., if that all hasn't
already been done recently.

But then, I'm an overkill kind of guy.  If I go ahead and replace
everything while I'm in there, I don't have to take apart something
right after I just put it back together.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 11:52:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
 <538D7135.3060901@verizon.net>

I may be the only one, and yes my car is heavily modified for performance, 
but I rather like the ambiance of the dim gages.  yes, they are harder to 
read, and maybe not so showy perfect.  I have another car with new, 
replacement gages, and they are bright.  but there is just something I like 
about the tr6 cockpit, the wood dash,  and those dim gages . . . .


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (Martin Secrest)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2014 11:55:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?

Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?

What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?

Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
footprint.

Martin Secrest

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 19:27:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 and Monza ( the blown gasket saga)

I know this has been talked about many times, but i can't get into the
archives. Would some of you be willing to share  your degree of
satisfaction with the Monza system that everyone sells for the TR4?  I have
to replace the headers that came with the car as they are badly warped and
not enough thickness to the flange to level off. I've long had an unused 4
in 1 header  from Ebay maybe 15 years ago and thought I'd use that with a
new pipe and muffler,

Interesting about the current exhaust is that the pipe is only 1 5/8" ID,
which always looked a bit small, (although the Monza is only 3/8" larger).
My machine shop guy says that when increasing the flow via a larger pipe
one sacrifices torque to gain revs at higher speeds. A smaller pipe
conversely increases torque, which is what the original owner of this car
would have wanted for his auto-crossing back in the 60's and 70's.  Amazing
what i don;t know.

Anyway, would appreciate any comments, and thanks. Incidentally, best EBay
price is $262 from a commercial seller.

John

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 17:25:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4 vs 6 vane water pump impellor
References: <002301cf7bd6$7a879f40$6f96ddc0$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <4C.90.25046.B02B8835@cdptpa-oedge03>

I googled the bete noire reference and found a nice cake recipe. My wife
loved it.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2014 10:20:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <ED0C38C4-C574-48C2-9181-EE7F8FD3DA66@verizon.net>

Martin,

A converter will have no affect on CO2. It will convert CO to CO2 I 
think. It may alter other gasses such as SO2 or SO3 and some Nitrogen 
compounds. But what goes in the converter comes out, maybe in a 
different form but the same elements. The only way I know of altering 
elements is by fusion and fission.

Also, it will get very hot during operation. It will require a heat 
shield of some sort.

The best bet is to keep your engine in top tune IMO.

Bob

On 06/03/2014 11:55 AM, Martin Secrest wrote:
> Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?
>
> What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?
>
> Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
> footprint.
>
> Martin Secrest

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 07:59:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?

> A converter will have no affect on CO2. It will convert CO to CO2 I 
> think. 

Right.  Also HC to H2O + CO2; and NOx to N2 + O2 (if you have a "3-way" catalyst).

> Also, it will get very hot during operation. It will require a heat 
> shield of some sort.

In order to achieve the reactions, it also needs free oxygen in the input.  That means your engine has to either run leaner than
normal (so not all the oxygen is consumed by combustion), or you need a air injection system to feed O2 to the converter.

My point being that it isn't just a bolt-on device.

> The best bet is to keep your engine in top tune IMO.

Basically anything that reduces fuel consumption will also lower your "carbon footprint".

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: greg.meythaler at intel.com (Meythaler, Greg)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:15:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 153
References: <mailman.15.1401818403.27819.triumphs@autox.team.net>

They're caused by hot spots, but typically you get hot spots because you are
using to soft a pad that gets over heated or doesn't have the right heat
range.  Here is a great reference on the subject:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brak
e-disc-and-other-myths

-greg

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 08:31:03 -0700
From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr at cox.net>
To: "'Martin Secrest'" <moira.secrest at verizon.net>,
	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Slow Fast Slow Fast

Look for heat marks/discoloration on your rotors.

These "hot spots" are work hardened metal and can cause a pulsation.

If you have them, they can't be machined out.  They can be caused by using a
pad that is too hard.

I run the softest pads I can find on all my cars.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 18:03:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <ED0C38C4-C574-48C2-9181-EE7F8FD3DA66@verizon.net>

others will correct me if I'm wrong - all a cat does I believe is change 
carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide.  I think there are better ways to reduce 
your carbon footprint.

a big one is to drive an old car and save all the energy utilized in the 
construction of a new vehicle!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Martin Secrest
Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 10:55 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?

Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?

What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?

Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
footprint.

Martin Secrest 

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 21:16:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing

After rebuilding my TR4A engine I've been playing around with the engine
timing (advance/retard) to dial in the best performance. The engine has the
Moss cam & 87 MM pistons, but everything else is stock. Stock HS6's, stock
distributor with Pertronix, new gears and timing chain. The vacuum advance
is attached.

I never seem to be able to get the full range performance I would expect. I
can get low end to be great but the top end suffers. Redial it and the top
end is great but low end is sluggish.

I dont think the carbs are it, as I've changed to richer needles, made it
richer/leaner, and it didn't help. I did learn that a richer mixture seems
to hide timing differences.

And I got to thinking that the TR4A distributor has an advance limit built
into it and was wondering if going to a more full range dizzy would give me
that full range performance. Shouldn't the dizzy advance and the cam specs
match up? 

Why the limited advance anyway?

BTW, the weather is absolutely bitchin to be driving with top down every day
here in San Diego. I'm loving it.

Johnnie

67 TR4A


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:03:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] carpet snap layout

Does anybody have a diagram showing the carpet snap layout for a TR3?

I replaced the floors in mine, and the old ones were too far gone to make
any sense of it.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

----- 

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 22:31:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] What fun.

At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting to be delivered to subscribers.
Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small obscure operations. This DMARC
stuff is killing me.

I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message?

mjb.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 00:01:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] What fun.
References: <53914430.1080803@bradakis.com>

Made it through to me...

Tony Drews

At 11:31 PM 6/5/2014, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting 
>to be delivered to subscribers.
>Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small 
>obscure operations. This DMARC
>stuff is killing me.
>
>I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message?
>
>mjb.
>

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 22:15:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <ED0C38C4-C574-48C2-9181-EE7F8FD3DA66@verizon.net>

I'm going to do some armchair engineering here, so please feel free to
research and refute anything I claim.

While you most certainly can retrofit the catalytic converter, it's not the
only requirement by far.  In order for the catalytic convert to do its job,
there needs to be sufficient oxygen in the exhaust to burn up (catalyze...)
the extra hydrocarbons.

The converter should be located close to the engine (so that it heats up)
and as far from the passengers as you can (because it gets hot).

If your mixture is too rich then the catalytic converter will overheat.  I
had an old Ford wagon that had that happen - the converter got bright red.
 Could be a fire hazard!

So, by my speculation, you should have at least an oxygen sensor and some
means of automatically adjusting the mixture to compensate / ensure that
the converter is working.  You may also need an air pump to feed fresh air
into the exhaust to make the converter work.

A fascinating problem, but is it worth the effort?  Also, consider that the
manufacture of your new catalytic converter may have involved the mining
and refinement of some heavy metals.  Will your driving and reduced
hydrocarbon output actually offset that?

Personally, I would get the mixture adjustment components working first -
and test your car after a good tune-up to determine how bad it really is.
 I suspect that you will affect your carbon footprint more with careful
driving and proper maintenance than you would by adding more hardware to
the system.

M


On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 8:55 AM, Martin Secrest <moira.secrest at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?
>
> What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?
>
> Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
> footprint.
>
> Martin Secrest
>


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 16:58:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Headrest
References: <a45c3.5c232e61.40bb6e07@aol.com>

You can read how to do it here......... 
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/249244-Headrest-removal#281896

Very difficult with the covers on the seat.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 07:10:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Catalytic Converter for TR6?
References: <ED0C38C4-C574-48C2-9181-EE7F8FD3DA66@verizon.net>

The products of hydrocarbon combustion are water and carbon dioxide.
If you want less CO2, as others have said, burn less gasoline.  Drive
less and more economically.   Tune the car well including tire
pressures.

Air pollution is much more than CO2, and when catalysts were developed
it was more about photochemical smog than anything else (CO2 and
global warming was being talked about by a few academics, not the
population at large).  Original two-way catalytic convertors manage
incomplete combustion products (unburned hydrocarbons, HC, and carbon
monoxide, CO).  Modern three-way catalytic convertors in addition
manage oxides of nitrogen (NOX), a component of smog and acid rain
that results from lean mixtures and hot combustion.  Catalytic
convertors don't change the fundamental equation that CO2 comes from
burning fuel.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L



On 6/3/14, Martin Secrest <moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:
> Bit a strange question: can one retrofit a cat converter to a 72 TR6?
>
> What are the requirements other than a place for it under the chassis?
>
> Not asking because of any legal requirement, just want to reduce my carbon
> footprint.
>
> Martin Secrest
>


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 14:22:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] goodparts roller bearing clutch mechanism

anyone using this?  Ibm thinking of getting it.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:19:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing
References: <002e01cf8074$f8f54920$eadfdb60$@rr.com>

Hi John,
Funny you should post this as I have just about finished by TR4A here in 
Cincinnati and did a bit of struggling with the tuning also.
I have the BPNW 270 degree cam and 87mm pistons but I also have a 
RevingtonTR 4into1header and mating exhaust and on of those 123 distributors 
I bought from Darrell many moons ago when he went to Weber carbs. That 
distributor is kind of pricey now but in my opinion, it really delivers. It 
has 17 different advance curves in it. Mine is set to have about 10 degrees 
at 1,000 RPM, a little over 22 degrees at 2,000 RPM and about 31 degrees at 
4,500 RPM. I am running 93 octain fuel and have been carefull to listen for 
pinging during long pulls up hills and such and the engine seems to be 
tolerating the current timing settings.
I only have about 400 miles on the engine so far so I am not pushing it too 
much but I know it pulls real strong from about 2,000RPM to as high as I 
dare go now (about 4,000RPM very occasionally). I played around with the 
needles too, going one step richer but the plugs fouled so I went back to 
stock and just did a 400 mile tune up and the plug electrodes were tan and 
the surrounding plug was black.
Tuning this thing was way different that any other type of engine I ever 
fooled with I can tell you that. I found that the float levels really affect 
the mixture also as you are adjusting the level of fuel at the main 
jet/needle. Lots of things to think about..
Can you get someone to rev up the engine while you have a set back timing 
light on it? If so, what do you see timing wise at the 1,000, 2,000 and 
4500? Just curious as I think you are right in the problem being timing or 
more acurately advance related..
Dave Connitt


----- Original Message ----- 
aFrom: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:16 AM
Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine Timing


> After rebuilding my TR4A engine I've been playing around with the engine
> timing (advance/retard) to dial in the best performance. The engine has 
> the
> Moss cam & 87 MM pistons, but everything else is stock. Stock HS6's, stock
> distributor with Pertronix, new gears and timing chain. The vacuum advance
> is attached.
>
> I never seem to be able to get the full range performance I would expect. 
> I
> can get low end to be great but the top end suffers. Redial it and the top
> end is great but low end is sluggish.
>
> I dont think the carbs are it, as I've changed to richer needles, made it
> richer/leaner, and it didn't help. I did learn that a richer mixture seems
> to hide timing differences.
>
> And I got to thinking that the TR4A distributor has an advance limit built
> into it and was wondering if going to a more full range dizzy would give 
> me
> that full range performance. Shouldn't the dizzy advance and the cam specs
> match up?
>
> Why the limited advance anyway?
>
> BTW, the weather is absolutely bitchin to be driving with top down every 
> day
> here in San Diego. I'm loving it.
>
> Johnnie
>
> 67 TR4A


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:18:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <29087932.873617.1401744154230.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Yes.... with caveats:

- They won't fit in the speedo/tach bulb holes if you still have the green 
diffuser in the gauge. The bulb is too long and hits the diffuser
- They CAN NOT be used for the "idiot" lights or turn signals. LEDs are one 
way and for the those lights the current needs to flow both ways. Moss also 
sells bulbs like these and I called tech support about the idiot light 
problem. They agreed that they won't work and that the item should be noted 
as such in the catalog..... they also acknowledged getting support calls 
from people who have used them in the idiot lights.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: thenicholls at verizon.net
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 5:22 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LED instrument lights on EBAY

Anyone out there purchased and is using these LED instrument lights listed 
on EBAY?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/300923024335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Craig
72 Triumph TR6


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 20:11:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LED instrument lights on EBAY

 I ran into the same issue Bob mentions when I tried to use the big LEDS, I
 did however end up figuring out how to get the LED to work for the turn
 signal indicator (with a little help from my internet friends) it wasn't 
too
 hard or expensive, and since I couldn't really see the incandescent in the
 bright sun, and I can see the LED, I thought was worth the effort:

 Take one of these:

 http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm

 (scroll down to E10 Screw Base 4 Led Focused Lens Led Bulbs)

 Put one of these inline to the LED:

 http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062581

 And go from this:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs

 to this:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero
>
> Greg Lemon

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 12:04:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet
References: <mailman.18.1401732002.5883.triumphs@autox.team.net>

The release cable is fixed to the bonnet release bracket with a push  
on clip. If the clip and cable come off the bracket the cable release  
won't work. (ask me how I know, etc.) I managed to release the latch  
from underneath the car. Had a sore and scraped arm afterwards. I then  
wired the cable and clip to the bracket. It can be done so it's barley  
noticeable. I've just thought that you might be able to pull the  
release and from inside the footwell also pull on the outer cable  
thereby shortening it. If the cable clamp has come loose or is broken,  
then that's another issue.

Allen

> I have a few problems of late with my '64 Triumph, one being the  
> brake lines.
> However, yesterday, when I wanted to check the fluid level, the  
> bonnet appears
> stuck and wont open. How can I easily determine whether the cable is  
> broken.
> Since the release lever does not open it, is there an alternative to  
> opening
> it? How frustrating with nice driving weather, and I can't in the TR4.

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2014 11:13:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Guys,
Here I am all ready to go to the TRA National meeting and a light check on
the TR3B reveals no brake lights at all.  Everything else is normal.  The
TR4 is a little better, brake lights come on if you stomp on the pedal.  No
I do not have any spare switches.
 If I can get a couple of those by Tuesday do any of you know if I will
need to bleed the brakes after I install them?  Any other ideas on what to
check??
Thanks,
Darrell

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2014 18:28:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet snap layout
References: <mailman.11.1401991202.8944.triumphs@autox.team.net>

On Wed, 4 Jun 2014, at 4:03 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:

>
>
> Does anybody have a diagram showing the carpet snap layout for a TR3?
>
> I replaced the floors in mine, and the old ones were too far gone to make
> any sense of it.

The front "carpet" is actually a rubber mat. Whether you have the original or
a replacement, they have the snaps already installed. I think your best bet is
to line the rubber mat up to fit the contours of the transmission tunnel, the
firewall and inner sills and place the studs under the snaps on the rubber
mat.


Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:04:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <CABrPJU-+RO5HdcfxzW+etj7ZfTxq0_QLsYOU3bUXVc007GQHvA@mail.gmail.com>

Darrell-

My guess is you are running Dot5 in your system?  That is what I think created
the same problem in my 3A - brakes would only light if I stomped on them,
sensitivity was lost.  My solution was switching to a mechanical switch
mounted under the dash.

I think you can pull that switch quickly and not need a complete rebleed, but
of course plan on bleeding just in case.  But if you do use Dot5, expect this
to be a recurring issue based on what I've seen.

Randy


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: Ronald.Griffing at comcast.net (Ronald.Griffing at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 14:16:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What fun.
References: <53914430.1080803@bradakis.com>
 <20140608053612.72BD42585472@autox.team.net>

Mark,

As one of the "Comcasters"... Since June 1st I have 11 [TR] messages in my inbox.  None of them are from you.  I did not see the original of the message you sent below.

Ron Griffing
'62 TR4 CT1550L
~'60 Morris Minor 1000 MA2S3L791631

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>, "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2014 10:01:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] What fun.

Made it through to me...

Tony Drews

At 11:31 PM 6/5/2014, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>At the moment, there are 36,753 pending emails on Team.Net waiting 
>to be delivered to subscribers.
>Most are to Yahoo, AOL, Comcast, Hotmail addresses. You know, small 
>obscure operations. This DMARC
>stuff is killing me.
>
>I wonder how many folks, if any, will actually see this message?
>
>mjb.


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 07:50:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)

The switch is available from Napa Auto parts in both the spade terminal (ECH SL147) and screw terminal types (ECH SL144).  My local staore has both in stock.  They must fit American cars as well.

I have changed these several times without having to bleed the brakes but you need to be fast when you swap the two switches.

Edward Hamer
petaluma CA

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:14:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <CABrPJU-+RO5HdcfxzW+etj7ZfTxq0_QLsYOU3bUXVc007GQHvA@mail.gmail.com>

I think if you remove the reservoir cap, stretch plastic wrap over the
opening and then replace the cap, essentially closing the vent hole to
create a vacuum, you will not lose any fluid. Don't forget to remove the
plastic wrap when you finish the replacement of the switch :-). Even if you
do lose some fluid, it's up stream of the wheel cylinders, so most likely
you won't have to bleed the system. 

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of darrell
floyd
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2014 8:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Guys,
Here I am all ready to go to the TRA National meeting and a light check on
the TR3B reveals no brake lights at all.  Everything else is normal.  The
TR4 is a little better, brake lights come on if you stomp on the pedal.  No
I do not have any spare switches.
 If I can get a couple of those by Tuesday do any of you know if I will need
to bleed the brakes after I install them?  Any other ideas on what to
check??
Thanks,
Darrell


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 16:54:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:14:09 -0700
From: "Kinderlehrer"
<kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: "'darrell floyd'" <tr250driver at gmail.com>,
   
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light woes
I think if you
remove the reservoir cap, stretch plastic wrap over the
opening and then
replace the cap, essentially closing the vent hole to
create a vacuum, you
will not lose any fluid. Don't forget to remove the
plastic wrap when you
finish the replacement of the switch :-). Even if you
do lose some fluid, it's
up stream of the wheel cylinders, so most likely
you won't have to bleed the
system. 
Bob

Hi List!
After you are done, squeeze the front brake pads back
against the back of the caliper. This will 'BACKFLUSH' the air bubbles back on
top of the reservoir.
 
-Cosmo Kramer

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 18:04:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <83FE11EAF59440C6A64A9A03CB797324@livingroompc>

Could you repeat the Radio Shack link? I clicked on it an Radio Shack is 
not able to find the part.  I even searched for 2062581 which I guess is 
the part number.

Roger
On 06/07/2014 08:11 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I ran into the same issue Bob mentions when I tried to use the big 
> LEDS, I
> did however end up figuring out how to get the LED to work for the turn
> signal indicator (with a little help from my internet friends) it 
> wasn't too
> hard or expensive, and since I couldn't really see the incandescent in 
> the
> bright sun, and I can see the LED, I thought was worth the effort:
>
> Take one of these:
>
> http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
>
> (scroll down to E10 Screw Base 4 Led Focused Lens Led Bulbs)
>
> Put one of these inline to the LED:
>
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062581
>
> And go from this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs
>
> to this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero
>>
>> Greg Lemon


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:29:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 159
References: <mailman.17.1402336804.23601.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: TR4 Bonnet (Allen Hess)
   2. Brake light woes (darrell floyd)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

RE: the Bonnet.   Do you get resistance or is the cable completely loose?
If you get resistance, have someone push on the hood over the latch area
while you pull the cable.

RE: Brake light switches.  If you can get to the areas where wires attach
and/or to where the actuator plunger goes into the switch, spray in some
contact cleaner.  It's a spray deoxidizing material that cleans off
contacts.  You can get it at places like "Radio Shack."


Ron L

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 09:12:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <CABrPJU-+RO5HdcfxzW+etj7ZfTxq0_QLsYOU3bUXVc007GQHvA@mail.gmail.com>
 <002401cf8659$58256210$08702630$@net>

if you get speedbleeders, bleeding is very easy.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: binduni at gmail.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 07:34:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Not sure I follow the logic of the Dot 5 fluid - I've used this in at least
a dozen cars I've restored and have never had an issue because of it. I
have, however, learned that the mechanical pressure switch is a finicky
bugger, and have also learned that if I fill the pressure inlet with fluid,
it will push the air out that is trapped in there. Remember, if you have
air in your brake lines, the brakes don't work so well. Same goes for the
switch. You need to "bleed" the air out of it before installing it. I'm not
claiming that the switch works exactly like a mech switch, but pretty
close. If there is enough pressure to engage the brakes, the lights should
come on.

Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!

Brian


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 12:37:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <CAHYQcSVM4z7PDat+yd8qQKWvehC92riKOrOZzjFQ8Z2o2Hi_Sg@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not sure there is logic involved, but there is some evidence -  3 cars in
my club, including mine have experienced this.  It doesn't make a lot of sense
to me, but it seems too coincidental to have switches fail completely or
become much less sensitive to pedal pressure to stop working, and its been
after a switch to Dot 5.  Dot 4 flushing/refresh, typical maintenance etc and
I don't know of an issue.  Possibly its related to having some air trapped in
the switch, but in my thinking that would just lead to a spongy pedal feel,
not failure - pressure would be transmitted in the switch through the air
too.

In my case I was still using an older switch so possibly the newer Napa or
equivalent replacement might behave better.

> Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 07:34:18 -0700
> From: binduni at gmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light woes
>
> Not sure I follow the logic of the Dot 5 fluid - I've used this in at least
> a dozen cars I've restored and have never had an issue because of it. I
> have, however, learned that the mechanical pressure switch is a finicky
> bugger, and have also learned that if I fill the pressure inlet with fluid,
> it will push the air out that is trapped in there. Remember, if you have
> air in your brake lines, the brakes don't work so well. Same goes for the
> switch. You need to "bleed" the air out of it before installing it. I'm not
> claiming that the switch works exactly like a mech switch, but pretty
> close. If there is enough pressure to engage the brakes, the lights should
> come on.
>
> Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!
>
> Brian

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 14:29:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?

I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used
copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't believe
it, how's that possible?

Dave Willner
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Emoticon9.gif]

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 16:03:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>

 Just "Google" the title and you'll see worse! Sadly, I remember when a decent
TR2/3/3A "driver" cost less than the asking price of some copies of this book!
:(



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: italyfound at gmail.com (Italyfound)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:01:55 +0200
Subject: [TR] Triumph Club

Quick question on a club in Michigan......

Is anyone familiar with the Detroit Triumph Sports Car Club?

Is this club still active.

I have been trying to contact them but have received no response to emails...

Thx,

Alex Manzo

59 TR3A
72 TR6
00 Fiat Barchetta

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 21:33:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal

Perhaps I finally have something to contribute
today after removing the transmission in my TR3A
I found the clutch fork taper pin was broken at the threads.
read up on the remedies suggested, ecch.

I cleaned up the area, and tried to think of another way.
I got my 1/4 sheet vibrating sander, wedged the grease fitting on the cross
shaft between the platen and the body and let it vibrate the assembly.
After about a minute or so, the pin fell out with out any other
encouragement
Bob's your Uncle! That was easy, and the beer tasted so wonderful.

Just a suggestion next time you face the same dilemma.

Perry Hammock
1960 TR3A O

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:49:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>

Tell me when one sells for that price, and then I'll be impressed.  It
takes nothing to ask a crazy amount.

Do you have a link to the listing?  I can't find it...

Don

On 6/13/14, davewillner <davewillner at pa.net> wrote:
> I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used
> copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't
> believe
> it, how's that possible?
>
> Dave Willner
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 12:23:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 rotors

I've got a 1957 TR3, the first year the car had disc brakes.

The rotors are shots and  I wanted to replace them. I learned some time 
back that the cars brakes were not original. The pads, shoes, front 
calipers and rear cylinders all seemed to be from a TR4.

I ordered parts from Moss, including 10 3/4" rotors. Unfortunately, 
after getting them and mounting one, I find that the old rotors are 10 
1/4", and the calipers don't fit.

Anyone know what takes a 10 1/4" rotor? TR6 maybe?

-- 
George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

1957 Triumph TR3
1961 Jaguar Mark 2
1975 Triumph TR6
1997 Land Rover Discovery

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: glevit1 at msn.com (glevit1)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2014 15:08:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Switch Hard to engage with silicone fluid

Follow link for discussion of hydralic switch with silicone fluid.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et119a.htm


Follow link for this swith which spe if it's that it can be used with silicone fluid and operates on low pressure of 20 to 50 psi

Gerry
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-32



>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 23:37:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

> Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!

So, you have to replace the switch every time you use the brakes?  

I've used DOT 5 for several decades now, and I love it.  The original brake light switch in my previous TR3A (which was converted in 1985 or so) lasted a long time, but eventually failed in just the manner described.  It would still work if the pressure was high enough, but the pressure required kept getting higher and higher until even a fairly hard stop would not light the brake lights.  Not a Good Thing.

Several replacements from various sources (including a repro switch from Moss and a Ford replacement from FLAPS) went the same way in fairly short order (less than a year for each one, some in only a few weeks).

Changing to a mechanical switch solved the problem permanently.  Well, almost permanently.  I did have one problem where the reservoir was leaking a tiny amount, and the fluif ran down the pedal and got into the switch ... causing a similar failure in a mechanical switch!  The moral seems clear, DOT 5 and switch contacts do not get along!  A post-mortem on the switch showed moisture along the shaft, which felt like DOT 5, and a hard black substance on the contacts, which I now believe to be silicon from burned DOT 5.

But having been pushed into it, I do rather like having brake lights that come on _before_ braking starts, rather than after.  With the mechanical switch, they come on as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, instead of waiting until the pedal has moved far enough to build pressure in the system.

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:20:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=W-FuXUfw6VOeuukLRxAQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just typed "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" in Google and the first listing was 
from Amazon. They show 11 used from $299.95 and 4 new from $614.48 so there 
is something going on. Other sites seem to support this high price also.

Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 10:48:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

Hey Guys,
I did get a switch from Napa, the only one they had in the general area
last Tuesday and put it in the 3B, the lights worked well but I carried
thru with a brake bleed just to be sure.  The Four improved some after a
brake bleed so I just took that one to TRA. Going to put a new switch in
her shortly.
Yes I guess the Dot 5 is ruining the switches.  The 3b switch is only a few
years old. Some say the Napa switches are better?
Cheers,
Darrell

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:37:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>

I'm pretty sure that there are often items listed on eBay that are purely
money laundering. There's a particular blank journal that my wife uses,
usually sold for about $20, and we once found one of them listed for $16,000.
Or this reference work (used in my work) that is available for about $300,
here listed for $2,462.63:
  http://r.ebay.com/LnbgWY

But $625 for Piggott's book probably isn't enough to justify anything illegal,
it's more likely someone just trying to test the market.

On Fri, June 13, 2014 13:29, davewillner wrote:
> I was looking for some TR3 items in the UK on eBay and I came across a used
> copy of Bill Piggott's "Original TR2/3/3A" offered at $625.00. Can't believe
> it, how's that possible?
>
> Dave Willner
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 14:06:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=W-FuXUfw6VOeuukLRxAQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

The real question is "is anyone buying?"  There is also a used TR3 nose emblem
that has been there for months at only $424.00 + shipping, no takers.


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 16:36:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dzus question

After removing the stanchion plates from the front scuttle, I see that one
of the "S"-shaped pieces (to which the Dzus bolt attaches) has snapped.  I
remember somewhere seeing these pieces new, but I cannot seem to find them.
The guy at Moss Motors didn't even know what I was talking about. Does
anyone have advice on how I could get my hands on one?

 

As an aside, is anyone else getting frustrated with Moss?  Seems that
recently I have had so many issues:  wrong parts sent, broken stuff, sales
reps not having a clue...

 

Were that everything worked as well as this list (Hi, Mark !)

 

Andrew Uprichard.  

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:23:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=W-FuXUfw6VOeuukLRxAQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

I have a nice copy of that book. Anyone want to give me $100 for it and
flip it for a profit?


Greg G.
Osseo, MN

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 20:02:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=W-FuXUfw6VOeuukLRxAQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

Do you think people will actually pay anywhere near those asking prices for 
the books?, I know when I was looking the the equivalent book for the TR4-6 
they were asking in the $100 or more range, I eventually found one on E-bay 
Canada for about $20 and pounced, but don't know if there are such bargains 
anymore.  But I can't imagine paying that kind of money for a recently 
published book that retailed for less than a tenth that a few years ago even 
if I did have that kind of money to spend on such a book.


Greg Lemon

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 22:00:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets

hi.

Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping someone
could tell me where these go.

thanks!

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 18:16:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes
References: <CAHYQcSVM4z7PDat+yd8qQKWvehC92riKOrOZzjFQ8Z2o2Hi_Sg@mail.gmail.com>
 <20140613233738.SPGRW.11668.root@cdptpa-web27>

On the subject of brake light switches... this is the mechanical switch I
added on my other (non-TR) British car:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5DILY/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

I left the hydraulic switch in place (which has not failed despite my using
DOT5) and added the above switch with a simple metal bracket in the
footwell operated by pedal arm movement.  I had no problems with the
hydraulic switch but do like that the mechanical switch operates the brake
lights with only the slightest pedal movement - which may happen well in
advance of serious braking.

Looking at the TR3A pedal box I think that same switch might fit into the
hole in the front lip of the box to be actuated by the upper tip of the
pedal arm (very similar to a TR4 switch).  Otherwise, an interior bracket
may be needed.

Yeah, I know the usuals carry mechanical switches but I have heard mixed
results with those (esp the white plastic version) whereas this metal
version has been used by quite a few LBC owners with success.

Geo


On Fri, Jun 13, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Of course, this is assuming the switch is new, which is an absolute must!
>
> So, you have to replace the switch every time you use the brakes?
>
> I've used DOT 5 for several decades now, and I love it.  The original
> brake light switch in my previous TR3A (which was converted in 1985 or so)
> lasted a long time, but eventually failed in just the manner described.  It
> would still work if the pressure was high enough, but the pressure required
> kept getting higher and higher until even a fairly hard stop would not
> light the brake lights.  Not a Good Thing.
>
> Several replacements from various sources (including a repro switch from
> Moss and a Ford replacement from FLAPS) went the same way in fairly short
> order (less than a year for each one, some in only a few weeks).
>
> Changing to a mechanical switch solved the problem permanently.  Well,
> almost permanently.  I did have one problem where the reservoir was leaking
> a tiny amount, and the fluif ran down the pedal and got into the switch ...
> causing a similar failure in a mechanical switch!  The moral seems clear,
> DOT 5 and switch contacts do not get along!  A post-mortem on the switch
> showed moisture along the shaft, which felt like DOT 5, and a hard black
> substance on the contacts, which I now believe to be silicon from burned
> DOT 5.
>
> But having been pushed into it, I do rather like having brake lights that
> come on _before_ braking starts, rather than after.  With the mechanical
> switch, they come on as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, instead of
> waiting until the pedal has moved far enough to build pressure in the
> system.
>
> Randall
>

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 11:06:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?
References: <3BFE883C863649CBBA3095627336E086@home2b99dc0107>
 <CAPK7CFAJAqkjrDKRXi6hoPc=AxH4f=W-FuXUfw6VOeuukLRxAQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <F6F5BA8704864FF2A82C463CEB5BF0D2@zora>

On 6/16/14, 6:20 AM, Triumph wrote:
> I just typed "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A" in Google and the first 
> listing was from Amazon. They show 11 used from $299.95 and 4 new from 
> $614.48 so there is something going on. Other sites seem to support 
> this high price also.
>
geeeezzzz Maybe I should sell my copy.

TeriAnn

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 07:22:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LED instrument lights on EBAY
References: <83FE11EAF59440C6A64A9A03CB797324@livingroompc>
 <539A320E.4020102@rmi.net>

Try searching for 2062580 (I think that might be the catalog page number) or
search for "rectifiers".

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger
Elliott
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 7:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: LED instrument lights on EBAY

Could you repeat the Radio Shack link? I clicked on it an Radio Shack is not
able to find the part.  I even searched for 2062581 which I guess is the
part number.

Roger


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 08:15:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets
References: <428A233B85D14A38B1E29C96DC3CC6C5@Ranteer.local>

Those look like the gaskets that are attached to the bottom side of the
doors.  There is a series of holes that accept special clips (TRF
number 552901) that hold the seals in place.  Note that the seal rolls
up the leading edge of the door.

I don't recognize the metal strip.

Dave Massey
57 TR3 (and others)



-----Original Message-----
From: dave n <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 16, 2014 11:48 pm
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets


hi.

Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping
someone
could tell me where these go.

thanks!


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 05:48:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets
References: <428A233B85D14A38B1E29C96DC3CC6C5@Ranteer.local>

Possibly door seals / draft seals?

See item 19 here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29160&SortOrder=410

And items 40 & 42 here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29156


On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 8:00 PM, dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> hi.
>
> Ib ve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
> its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping
> someone
> could tell me where these go.
>
> thanks!
>

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 13:13:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] help with identifying gaskets

---- dave n <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> hi.
>
> Ibve got these gaskets that are supposed to go with my 57 TR3.
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
> its been an on again, off again kind of restoration, and I was hoping
someone
> could tell me where these go.

They look to me like the water seals that go along the bottom of the doors;
plus a short section where the top of the door meets the scuttle.

Unfortunately, they might also be the ones that don't fit very good.  The
originals were somehow molded with varying density, so the section that goes
into the clips on the door was much firmer than the lip that goes against the
body; allowing the clip to hold while the rest of the seal crushed to fit.
Many if not all of the seals available today have the firmer density all the
way, so they don't crush and hold the door open slightly.

Good Luck,
Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:29:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal
References: <CAMZHkhcUYqqPR+i337Q4c2Hh5YGaze2SHWbTq+i5VW9tT1PmOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Way to go, Perry! Thanks for passing that on.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Perry Hammock" <perryfly at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2014 9:33 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Broken Clutch Taper Pin Removal


> Perhaps I finally have something to contribute
> today after removing the transmission in my TR3A
> I found the clutch fork taper pin was broken at the threads.
> read up on the remedies suggested, ecch.
>
> I cleaned up the area, and tried to think of another way.
> I got my 1/4 sheet vibrating sander, wedged the grease fitting on the 
> cross
> shaft between the platen and the body and let it vibrate the assembly.
> After about a minute or so, the pin fell out with out any other
> encouragement
> Bob's your Uncle! That was easy, and the beer tasted so wonderful.
>
> Just a suggestion next time you face the same dilemma.
>
> Perry Hammock
> 1960 TR3A O
>


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 16:08:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] K&N air filters, oil, and cleaner

Don't know if anyone on the list will see this, but I will send anyway.


I have a set of used K&N Air filters, oil, and cleaner on Ebay.  Item number 221463677155 .


If anyone is interested (Financial interest), please contact me at "TheNicholls at Verizon.Net".


Thanks,


Craig 
72 Triumph TR6

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 19:23:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal

     I have a Triumph Renown that leaks oil out the rear seal at the rate of
about a quart every 20 miles. It is really something. I am thinking of going
through the engine next winter. Moss charges about $200 for a lip type rear
seal conversion kit. I see something similar on Ebay for $99. Has anyone tried
one of these? Is it the same?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151290877125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649


     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 00:20:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] K&N air filters, oil, and cleaner
References: <19443631.439973.1403039307084.JavaMail.root@vznit170126>

I saw it.


On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 4:08 PM, <thenicholls at verizon.net> wrote:

> Don't know if anyone on the list will see this, but I will send anyway.
>
>
> I have a set of used K&N Air filters, oil, and cleaner on Ebay.  Item
> number 221463677155 .
>
>
> If anyone is interested (Financial interest), please contact me at
> "TheNicholls at Verizon.Net".
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Craig
> 72 Triumph TR6



-- 
pethier at comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 14:28:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake light woes

> I left the hydraulic switch in place (which has not failed 
> despite my using
> DOT5) and added the above switch with a simple metal bracket in the
> footwell operated by pedal arm movement. 

FWIW, here's a shot of my bracket & switch on the TR3.
http://tinyurl.com/of5qowk

Someday I'll "restore" that area and clean things up a bit, this was a quick and dirty to get the car on the road in time for TRfest
2009.

> Looking at the TR3A pedal box I think that same switch might 
> fit into the
> hole in the front lip of the box to be actuated by the upper 
> tip of the
> pedal arm (very similar to a TR4 switch).

Probably not the same switch, but I found one at FLAPS that would fit in that position on my previous TR3A.  However, the TR3 has
pedal stops in those holes (as original), and I didn't really like having the obviously wrong switch hanging out under the hood
anyway.  Hence the above setup (which is invisible unless you crawl under the dash).

> Yeah, I know the usuals carry mechanical switches but I have 
> heard mixed
> results with those (esp the white plastic version) whereas this metal
> version has been used by quite a few LBC owners with success.

Again FWIW, the mixed metal/plastic switch shown in the above shot lasted less than 2 years from installation.  I'm currently
running one of the white plastic ones from TRF, and it has been working fine since 2010.  

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 20:26:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] List up and running?

I haven't received anything in several days.

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, FL

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 11:27:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil

My friend's TR6 is consuming oil.  In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls
regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again.  I am
guessing these two issues might be related...  The oil fouling the plug...
If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem?
>From the cylinder head?  Or from the rings?

Creig

Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817
St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
www.sltoa.org

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 21:12:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Exhaust Pieces

Would John DeLuca please send me the name and address
of the source for stainless TR4A exhaust pieces he purchased.


Many thanks!  George

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 10:15:06 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil
References: <BLU168-DS18EC5A7B1ACAB97DEB6C63EC1C0@phx.gbl>

In the first instance, a compression test should indicate No5 being low.
If so put a small amount of oil down the plug hole and do the test on this
bore again. If it rises significantly then this would confirm the piston or
piston rings are at fault.
IMHO if the overall compressions on all cyls are low I am afraid its a
major rebuild.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK


On 22 June 2014 17:27, Creig Houghtaling <creig555 at live.com> wrote:

> My friend's TR6 is consuming oil.  In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls
> regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again.  I am
> guessing these two issues might be related...  The oil fouling the plug...
> If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem?
> From the cylinder head?  Or from the rings?
>
> Creig
>
> Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817
> St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
> www.sltoa.org


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:50:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil
References: <BLU168-DS18EC5A7B1ACAB97DEB6C63EC1C0@phx.gbl>
 <CAJbHsd9=DnS8EotK5wbWg6WkrHKmnJQqLByp8EikLV3rJvhb3w@mail.gmail.com>

It has been a while since we have done a compression checkb&  Thatbs a good
thing to check.  Thanks.



>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 12:05:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] mounting trunk lid & spare tire cover gaskets.s

In the past I have mounted the trunk ld gasket and spare tire cove gasket for
my TR3A with adhesive.  Eighteen years ago I used contact cement and the
mounting was tedious and difficult.

This time around I attempted to use 3M Super Strength trim adhesive. After
three attempts yielding only partiel bonding results I decided to try a
special plastic bonding agent I had bought for a difficult plastic bonding
project.

The product I used is Tech Bond.  I found that I could put a few drops in the
channel for the gasket and then push the gasket firmly down into the channel
and get strong adhesion within second.

I repaired the loose areas of the trunk lid gasket this way.  Then for the
spare tire cove gasket I began by cutting it to size and bonding the ends
togethewr with two drops of Tech Bond.  Then I placed the gasket into the
channel the way it should fit and held it in place with strips of painters
tape every foot or so.  Then I would pull a section of the gasket out of the
channel and place a few drops of Tech Bond on the gasket mounting surface.
Then I would use a tongue depressor to push the gasket into the channel until
it was firmly seated.  I would hold the gasket in place for a few seconds and
then repeat the process on another section.

I had the spare tire cover gasket mounted in less than 30 minutes with no need
for masking, or spraying adhesive, and no clean up.  One word opf caution is
do not get Teck Bond on your fingers and then touch the gasket or you will be
glued to the gasket.

The URL for Tech Bond is below:

http://shop.tech-bond.net/Tech-Bond-Starter-Kits-for-your-repair-7001.htm

Get the stater kit with the SI Blue adhesive.  Also be careful about using the
spray Activator as it will cause instantaneous bonding.
I have no financial interest in the product.

Best regards,
Tom

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 14:10:00 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal
References: <1403144612.23053.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I would take a look at the www.tr4_racing.com web site. It contains details
of a far better set up which retains the scroll, (a belt and braces set
up.)
The US agent is Joe Alexander, he is on the list.

Adrian
TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:21:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal

> Moss charges about $200 for a 
> lip type rear
> seal conversion kit. I see something similar on Ebay for $99. 
> Has anyone tried
> one of these? Is it the same?

My suggestion would be to stay far, far away from the conversion that requires the scroll to be ground off.  Numerous people have
reported that the result leaked worse than the original (which can be made to work quite well if you use the updated mandrel
dimensions instead of those shown in the manuals).  One of our local club members had to have the crank replaced after a mistake was
discovered in the instructions.  (The instructions I got had been changed by hand twice!)

If you want a lip type seal, the 'Viton' conversion offered (only) by TRF and ARE is much better, IMO.  It doesn't require the
scroll to be ground off, and actually keeps the scroll seal functional; adding the lip seal as a secondary seal.  The only suggested
crank mod is to polish the area between the scroll and flange.  Note that the kit includes a mandrel made to the corrected
dimensions.  (I've heard reports that the one sold by Moss is wrong.)

http://tinyurl.com/pfmoqw2

Honestly, though, a quart every 20 miles seems extreme.  Are you certain it is the rear main seal and not one of the plugs on the
block and/or head?  Is the oil level correct?

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 13:31:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] List up and running?
References: <000001cf8db0$a20a2c90$e61e85b0$@verizon.net>

DMARC has totally f'ed up mailing lists. We are using the Mailman utility as
part of the VTR hosted service offered to affiliates for our club mailing
lists and it is a mess. This may be the last straw before we just give up and
move everything to Facebook.

Stan


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 08:55:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lip Type Crank Seal
References: <1403144612.23053.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Bill -

I have not done this but would be wary of the kits (Moss & ebay) that
require grinding the crank.  Some find this works out well for them but I
recall some who had problems & the 'fix' is irreversible.

Instead, I believe there is an alternative that does not modify the crank
or (of course) the original style seal can be renewed.

Okay, a search turns up this:

http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/categoryhome/engine-components/product/53-vsk-t34

Geo


>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 11:36:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Standard-Triumph Marque Day at Brooklands over the weekend

The Standard Triumph Marque Day was held at Brooklands yesterday (June 22,
2014).
http://www.standardmotorclub.org.uk/standard-triumph-marque-day.html

Looks like it would have been fun to attend.  That Dolomite tribute car
would have been especially interesting.  Lotsa pix here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/philip-smith/sets/72157645307413014/

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 0:54:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil

> > My friend's TR6 is consuming oil.  In addition, the #5 spark plug fouls
> > regularly and needs to be cleaned or replaced to run smoothly again.  I am
> > guessing these two issues might be related...  The oil fouling the plug...
> > If that is the case, what is the most likely route for the oil problem?
> > From the cylinder head?  Or from the rings?

Unfortunately, the most likely explanation IMO is damage to the cylinder wall or piston.  Might be just a broken ring, or badly worn valve guide, though.

Rather than mess with a compression test (which can sometimes be misleading), I would go ahead and pull the head to check the valve.  Your friend knows he has a problem, and he will need to pull the head anyway, even if the problem is rings/piston/cylinder wall.  And it's worth checking the valves when the head is off even if they aren't the primary problem.

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:30:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 burning oil
References: <Hmrd1o00D0NyJgq01mre2e>

Do a leak down test on it to determine whether it's the rings or the valves.

Mine was burning lots of oil too - it was the rings and the valve guides.

The oil scraper rings were seriously stuck in what appeared to be a
carbon-concrete.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave n)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 16:12:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 interior (not tr3a)

anyone who has a more or less correct tr3 b would you mind contacting me
offline?  I need some interior photos.

thanks

dave at ranteer.com

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:40:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Price of B. Piggott's Original TR2,3?

> But $625 for Piggott's book probably isn't enough to justify 
> anything illegal,
> it's more likely someone just trying to test the market.

Agree.  I believe it was PT Barnum that said there is one born every minute.  And there seem to be several book sellers that
speculate in this type of book, waiting for someone to come along that just has to have one, no matter the price.

Someone asked for a link:
http://tinyurl.com/kdedfy6

Randall

>From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
From: italyfound at gmail.com (Italyfound)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 11:51:26 +0200
Subject: [TR] Test

Is this server down? Email being rejected...

Alex Manzo

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 21 06:59:25 2014
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From: "dave willner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <002501cfd4d8$7edde710$7c99b530$@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 09:01:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 rear seat back question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl,

The top of my interior tank panel (post 60,000), at the bend, fits snuggly 
just under the rear capping, I have to push down and slightly bend it a 
little but it tends to fit nicely under the capping with no gaps. I have the 
loop pile carpeting with no insulation or padding. There should also be 6 or 
so tabs that its supposed to "slide" into to kind of keep in it place. Not 
sure where you got the panel, but maybe try bending it while pushing it 
under and if that doesn't work you may want to trim a bit off the bottom, 
sounds like youbre an inch or so too high? My bows do not fit under the 
capping, they rest of the sloped edge of the panel

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A BRG
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 VS

-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2014 9:40 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat back question

Good morning all.  (I am resending with the correct subject - sorry)

I was finally getting around to installing the top bows on my TR3 project.
The examples I pulled from the web show that the rear seat back stops
anywhere between about 2-2 1/2" to 3/4-1"
below the top of the rear capping piece.   Mine is almost flush with it.  It
is possible that the two layers
of heat/sound insulation and the carpet could account for some of the extra
height but not all.

1) what would be the correct distance?   It would make sense if it is in the
2" range so that the top bows could
nestle down below the capping. But that would be a lot of trimming on the
back piece.
2) what is the distance from the front of the flat platform (post 60000
body) to the location of the base of the back piece?   The optional rear
seat has a 12" base/13" cushion (I think the extra is mostly at the back.
3) what is the approximate angle that the seat back bends at the top (mine
is only about 10d)
and the pictures I have appear to be closer to 75-80d.

Thanks

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/   (unfortunately Verizon is closing down
the mysite URLs at the end of this year - I need to find an inexpensive web
location and move/rebuild my pages) Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner@pa.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Will Daehler" <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 10:27:23 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac/Vp+MZabn9Q8AQR7K6P+6/1JkGTg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR4 Heat Shield success, Throttle Lingage,
 Accelerator Return  spring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, so earlier I had posted to The List a plea for help. My inability to
consistently restart my engine when it was hot. This was on the eve of
VTR2014, and was on the verge of cancelling to avoid embarissment.

Well I bought the A.R.E. heat shield, and installed it. No issues there,
that was simple enough, and then had 100% re-starting success at the
convention. Yes! Yes! Cured!

When completing the installation and reconnecting the throttle linkage, I
started PERCEIVING for the first time how the throttle linkage was supposed
to work. I stared at it, and played with it while the engine was running.
Two things were evidently wrong.  

Ever since I had installed new engine mounts and shimmed them up a bit too,
my lack of accelerator pedal travel  was curtailing my top RPM. The engine
was now tilted back ever so slightly, making the distance shorter to the
firewall where the accelerator rod (behind the battery) is mounted and
pivots. So there were three places to correct for this on the threaded
portions of the various link rods and lock nuts. In just five minutes I was
able to drastically increase my top RPM and vehicle speed . Not bad!

The next observation was that my persistent high and quite random idle had
something to do with the lack of return force on the linkages. Fast forward,
five days, while peering at the engine compartments at the VTR Concours
event, oh my god, I'm missing the Accelerator Return spring! For ten damn
years too!  

Brad Kahler was there at the show, had an extra one, NIB, and gave it to me.
Thank you!  When I got it on, it was like a third miracle in the same week.

My car starts anytime, goes like stink, and finally idles politely at a
stoplight. 

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4 Powder Blue

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 21 09:42:39 2014
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References: <005e01cfd5a8$2a306370$7e912a50$@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 11:45:28 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Heat Shield success, Throttle Lingage,
 Accelerator  Return spring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Will,

Glad the spring helped out!  It's always nice to put faces to names from
the list.  Of course with my memory being as bad as it is we'll be able to
do the same thing at the next convention!

Brad


On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 10:27 AM, Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
wrote:

> OK, so earlier I had posted to The List a plea for help. My inability to
> consistently restart my engine when it was hot. This was on the eve of
> VTR2014, and was on the verge of cancelling to avoid embarissment.
>
> Well I bought the A.R.E. heat shield, and installed it. No issues there,
> that was simple enough, and then had 100% re-starting success at the
> convention. Yes! Yes! Cured!
>
> When completing the installation and reconnecting the throttle linkage, I
> started PERCEIVING for the first time how the throttle linkage was supposed
> to work. I stared at it, and played with it while the engine was running.
> Two things were evidently wrong.
>
> Ever since I had installed new engine mounts and shimmed them up a bit too,
> my lack of accelerator pedal travel  was curtailing my top RPM. The engine
> was now tilted back ever so slightly, making the distance shorter to the
> firewall where the accelerator rod (behind the battery) is mounted and
> pivots. So there were three places to correct for this on the threaded
> portions of the various link rods and lock nuts. In just five minutes I was
> able to drastically increase my top RPM and vehicle speed . Not bad!
>
> The next observation was that my persistent high and quite random idle had
> something to do with the lack of return force on the linkages. Fast
> forward,
> five days, while peering at the engine compartments at the VTR Concours
> event, oh my god, I'm missing the Accelerator Return spring! For ten damn
> years too!
>
> Brad Kahler was there at the show, had an extra one, NIB, and gave it to
> me.
> Thank you!  When I got it on, it was like a third miracle in the same week.
>
> My car starts anytime, goes like stink, and finally idles politely at a
> stoplight.
>
>
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4 Powder Blue
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 11:53:19 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?

I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Brad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 21 09:59:53 2014
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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 10:01:54 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLGZZpiBQJn=bapi4YDL6Q4=edcpkSHrrH-4PpeWdMnajA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What makes them special?
dave
On 9/21/2014 9:53 AM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
> RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?
>
> I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
> but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 21 10:02:27 2014
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 <541EF672.7030209@porterscustom.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 12:04:59 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I wish I knew the answer to that.  Maybe there isn't a large enough market
for them.

On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 12:01 PM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> What makes them special?
> dave
> On 9/21/2014 9:53 AM, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
>> So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
>> RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?
>>
>> I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
>> but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brad
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>>
>>
>>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 21 11:26:40 2014
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To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLGZZpiBQJn=bapi4YDL6Q4=edcpkSHrrH-4PpeWdMnajA@mail.gmail.com>
 <541EF672.7030209@porterscustom.com>
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Brad,

I made one for my 4 by cutting a bar off an old luggage rack I had that 
was no use as a rack anymore. I attached it to the bumper by 2 vertical 
metal bars attached where the licence plate attaches. I then made to 
additional bars that sort of clamp to the rear of the bumper to give it 
some stability. I mounted a driving and fog light + the autox badge bar. 
Looks nice.

I did a similar setup to both my 3 and 6 but on the 3, I was able to 
attach the bar to the rear over-rider supports. On the 6, the bar is 
below the bumper using 2 holes in the bottom of the bumper for brackets.

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 271
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Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 10:11:39 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

Interesting idea!  I don't currently have any unused unwanted luggage racks
but it's something to consider if all else fails.

Brad


On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

> Brad,
>
> I made one for my 4 by cutting a bar off an old luggage rack I had that
> was no use as a rack anymore. I attached it to the bumper by 2 vertical
> metal bars attached where the licence plate attaches. I then made to
> additional bars that sort of clamp to the rear of the bumper to give it
> some stability. I mounted a driving and fog light + the autox badge bar.
> Looks nice.
>
> I did a similar setup to both my 3 and 6 but on the 3, I was able to
> attach the bar to the rear over-rider supports. On the 6, the bar is below
> the bumper using 2 holes in the bottom of the bumper for brackets.
>
> Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 07:20:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Source for drain plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am looking for a source for the brass drain plug for the gearbox and rear differential for a 72 TR6.

The square head plugs being sold are a pain.  The brass one sits smooth and you use an Allen wrench as for removal.

Thanks,

Craig
72 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 05:26:33 -0700
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: "thenicholls@verizon.net" <thenicholls@verizon.net>,
 "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for drain plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is one source:  WP114587 Countersink Plug - Grainger Industrial Supply
None of my TR's have brass plugs, though.

 
  
 
 
 
 
 
WP114587 Countersink Plug - Grainger Industrial Supply
Shop GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR Countersink Plug (WP114587) at Grainger. Fast & convenient for the ones who get it done!  
View on www.grainger.com Preview by Yahoo  
 
 
Chad in Tulsa.
  


On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 7:21 AM, "thenicholls@verizon.net" <thenicholls@verizon.net> wrote:
  


I am looking for a source for the brass drain plug for the gearbox and rear differential for a 72 TR6.

The square head plugs being sold are a pain.  The brass one sits smooth and you use an Allen wrench as for removal.

Thanks,

Craig
72 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <thenicholls@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 05:35:07 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/XKMH4d2eX7Lj4Q/m4/5QUUFt3DwAAOKMQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for drain plug
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> I am looking for a source for the brass drain plug for the 
> gearbox and rear differential for a 72 TR6.
> 
> The square head plugs being sold are a pain.  The brass one 
> sits smooth and you use an Allen wrench as for removal.

The gearbox plug is just ordinary NPT pipe threads, so any plumbing supply should have them.  I forget the size offhand, probably
3/8".  I get mine at MMC
http://tinyurl.com/pk4rcu4

But I prefer the steel magnetic ones rather than brass.

I don't believe the diff on a 72 TR6 originally had a drain plug, so you may need to investigate what was added.  I don't know why
anyone wouldn't use the same as the gearbox, but it's a possibility.

Randall

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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 07:39:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: TR3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for drain plug
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 The rear diff is the fill whole, my bad.

My TR is a one owner car.  The brass plugs were in both.  The square head fits the gear box but not the differential.  Don't know why, I know they are the same, but now the square head in the gear box will not come off.

My local Jiffy Lube is nice enough that the let me pull in there once a year and top off for free.  Even they could not get the square head out,, and I sure did not want to snap it off.

Thanks,

Craig
 

On 09/23/14, Randall 
 wrote:


> I am looking for a source for the brass drain plug for the 
> gearbox and rear differential for a 72 TR6.
> 
> The square head plugs being sold are a pain. The brass one 
> sits smooth and you use an Allen wrench as for removal.

The gearbox plug is just ordinary NPT pipe threads, so any plumbing supply should have them. I forget the size offhand, probably
3/8". I get mine at MMC
http://tinyurl.com/pk4rcu4

But I prefer the steel magnetic ones rather than brass.

I don't believe the diff on a 72 TR6 originally had a drain plug, so you may need to investigate what was added. I don't know why
anyone wouldn't use the same as the gearbox, but it's a possibility.

Randall

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 06:02:42 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Source for drain plug
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> My TR is a one owner car.  The brass plugs were in both.  The 
> square head fits the gear box but not the differential.  

That is strange, they were originally the same part number.  Perhaps the threads got damaged and someone recut them?

> Don't know why, I know they are the same, but now the square 
> head in the gear box will not come off.

Try getting the gearbox good and hot first.  Nice long drive, or even heat it with a torch (being careful not to get too hot of
course, don't want a fire).  The aluminum housing expands faster than the steel plug, so the heat tends to loosen the plug.  I
suspect that is how they get so stuck, the expansion causes the plug to drip and so someone retightens it hot.

Some PTFE (teflon) paste should help it seal without being so tight, and make it easier to remove next time.

> My local Jiffy Lube is nice enough that the let me pull in 
> there once a year and top off for free.  Even they could not 
> get the square head out,, and I sure did not want to snap it off.

Sometimes, ya gotta do what ya gotta do.  I've often thought it was going to twist off, but so far I've been lucky.  8 point socket
and a big breaker bar.

Randall

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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 09:46:51 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: thenicholls@verizon.net, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for drain plug
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On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 5:35 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:


> But I prefer the steel magnetic ones rather than brass.
>


Me too, except the magnets in the ones I got from Moss were pretty wimpy.
I dug them out and replaced them with rare earth button magnets (JBWeld).

I have seen a TR3A gearbox that had a broken tooth floating around in it
until one day the tooth got caught in the gears.  They found many of the
pieces along the road including the gear that had originally lost a tooth -
it was an old break.  They never did find the driveshaft from that car.  My
hope is that, in the unlikely event of a tooth breaking off, that magnet
would be enough to hold it out of harm's way.

I have also seen a TR6 with a drain plug added that was noticeably smaller
than the fill plug or gear box drain plug.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 23 13:23:53 2014
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From: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 15:26:13 -0400
References: <CADm3DLGZZpiBQJn=bapi4YDL6Q4=edcpkSHrrH-4PpeWdMnajA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
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Try  Triple-C Motor Accessories, Phone 888-854-4081

ED
73 TR6


> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 11:53:19 -0400
> From: bkahler1@gmail.com
> To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
>
> So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
> RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?
>
> I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
> but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 07:49:53 2014
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 09:52:42 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 radiator shrouds
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

While looking at the TRs on the show field at the VTR convention I couldn't
help but notice that the TR4s and 4As (maybe even 250s) seemed to be about
the only models that had a shroud that was wider in the back than the width
of the radiator allowing air to flow past the sides of the radiator.  The
later cars seemed to have shrouds that funneled down to the width of the
radiator forcing all of the air through the radiator.  Anyone know why
Triumph didn't do the same thing for the TR4s and 4As?

>From my perspective it would seem to make more sense for all of the airflow
to be forced through the radiator.  I looked at the shrouds on Richard
Good's site and it appears his TR4 shroud fits the same way as the stock
one in that air is allowed to escape around the sides of the radiator.

Anyone know of a source for a shroud that doesn't allow air to flow around
the sides of the radiator on a TR4?

Thanks!

Brad

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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 09:54:48 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed,

Chad sent the link for Triple C earlier and I've been looking at how their
bars are mounted.  I'm not sure the angle of the stanchions or uprights
would work very well on a TR4 bumper.  If someone has one of the Triple C
bars mounted on their car I'd like to see pictures of it.

Brad


On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 3:26 PM, ED <emorat1@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Try  Triple-C Motor Accessories, Phone 888-854-4081
>
> ED
> 73 TR6
>
>
>
> > Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2014 11:53:19 -0400
> > From: bkahler1@gmail.com
> > To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
> >
> > So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
> > RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?
> >
> > I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
> > but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Brad
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/emorat1@hotmail.com

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From: Thomas Beaver <tbe749@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 10:20:04 -0400
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
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Brad
We use the AMCO bumper bar on the 250 to mount badges. The bar diameter is
large so had to source larger than usual clips. Not an easy item to find but
FYI.

Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 21, 2014, at 11:53 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
> RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?
>
> I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
> but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] TR4 radiator shrouds
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 radiator shrouds
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Hi Brad,

I recently installed the GoodParts shrowd on our TR4A replacing two previous
cardboard versions that quickly became mis-shaped after getting damp.

... and it's hard to dive in the rain without this happening!

I don't understand what you mean be wider at the back as the shrowd sits
slightly inboard of the radiator sides.  I can send pics if you're curious.

Regarding installation of the GoodParts shrowd, I was initially concerned
about the top piece being straight where it meets the front of the car which
is V-shaped.  I asked the list if this was a common problem and also emailed
back and forth with Richard Good.  Nobody had experienced a problem so I
decided to go ahead and live with a slight gap in the middle at the front
(which was present with both the cardboard products).  My thought was the
wiring harness would hide this anyway.  Turned out NOT to be a problem as the
mid-position body mounting point is higher than the outside points and this
results in a perfect fit to the V-shaped body panel.  Richard's product looks
really "good"!

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR, 
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0                       

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 09:04:20 2014
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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Tire Pressures for TR3 with 165R15's?
Thread-Index: Ac/YCPoMlbO9mEIVSXGehZezS9dvxA==
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 15:06:47 +0000
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 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=1000.0 KILL_LEVEL=6.0
 tests=BSF_RULE7568M
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 ----------------------
 -------------------------------------------------- 0.50 BSF_RULE7568M 
 Custom Rule 7568M
Subject: [TR] Tire Pressures for TR3 with 165R15's?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recently purchased COKER wide whites in the 165R15 size for use on my 1956
TR3.  These replace 25 year old US Royal bias tires which were long past their
pull date!

I'm curious what tire pressures people are running with modern radial tires on
a TR3?

By the way, based on advice from list members, I'm using a 155R15 in the spare
compartment with a 48 spoke Dayton wheel.  While I would have preferred to go
with 155R15's at the four corners as well, wide whites are not really an
affordable option in this size.  The only supplier I could find was
DiamondBack who will put a wide white on a 155R15 BF Goodrich TA for $227 a
pop.  Given the expected use. COKER's in-house 165R15 at $160 per tire won
out.  COKER also offers a 165R15 WW BF Goodrich (which they make) for  $194
which is about where I think Diamondback's offering should be.

Interesting aside:  We just returned from our annual trek to Stowe (in the
TR4A).  Joining us was John, a friend with his 1959 TR3A which he has had
since new!  John is running 165R15 radials on 48 spoke Dunlops and the spare
is also a (probably very old) 165R15 which fits the spare compartment but
tightly!

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
   92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR, 
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0                       

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 10:17:58 2014
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References: <CADm3DLGZZpiBQJn=bapi4YDL6Q4=edcpkSHrrH-4PpeWdMnajA@mail.gmail.com>
 <F4E37839-C2C9-4530-8264-7039184A6B7F@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 12:20:45 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Beaver <tbe749@aol.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 light & badge bar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting, first time I've heard the Amco bars have a larger diameter
than typical.

Thanks for the info!

Brad

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Thomas Beaver <tbe749@aol.com> wrote:

> Brad
> We use the AMCO bumper bar on the 250 to mount badges. The bar diameter is
> large so had to source larger than usual clips. Not an easy item to find
> but FYI.
>
> Tom
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 21, 2014, at 11:53 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > So why is it the only light & badge bar I can find for a TR4 is from
> > RevingtonTR and it's not cheap even without shipping added in?
> >
> > I've been googling light & badge bars for TR4s and found several examples
> > but only RevingtonTR actually seems to sell them.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Brad
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tbe749@aol.com

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 <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF8347D5CCD@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 13:09:45 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 radiator shrouds
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed,

I attached a picture of one of the cars I took a picture of on the show
field.  You can see the gap at the side of the radiator where the shroud is
wider than the radiator itself allowing airflow around the sides of the
radiator.

I have not seen Richard Goods TR4 shroud on a car, only the pictures on his
website.  From the website pictures the shroud appears to be the same width
as the factory (and aftermarket) shrouds.  Supposedly the TR4 and TR4A
shrouds are the same, at least according to Moss's catalog.

Could you send me a picture or two of your shroud installation?

Thanks,

Brad


On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:41 AM, Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca> wrote:

> Hi Brad,
>
> I recently installed the GoodParts shrowd on our TR4A replacing two
> previous cardboard versions that quickly became mis-shaped after getting
> damp.
>
> ... and it's hard to dive in the rain without this happening!
>
> I don't understand what you mean be wider at the back as the shrowd sits
> slightly inboard of the radiator sides.  I can send pics if you're curious.
>
> Regarding installation of the GoodParts shrowd, I was initially concerned
> about the top piece being straight where it meets the front of the car
> which is V-shaped.  I asked the list if this was a common problem and also
> emailed back and forth with Richard Good.  Nobody had experienced a problem
> so I decided to go ahead and live with a slight gap in the middle at the
> front (which was present with both the cardboard products).  My thought was
> the wiring harness would hide this anyway.  Turned out NOT to be a problem
> as the mid-position body mounting point is higher than the outside points
> and this results in a perfect fit to the V-shaped body panel.  Richard's
> product looks really "good"!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________________________________
>    Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
>    92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
>    Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01
> XKR,  75 John Deere 920
>    CANADA   K0H 2Y0

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of tr4-radiator-shroud-1.jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 14:13:19 -0500
References: <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF8347D5CF5@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
To: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tire Pressures for TR3 with 165R15's?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I was advised by Allen at Hendrix Wire Wheel to run 28psi all around on my
Diamondback WW with 60-spoke Dunlops.
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Sep 24, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca> wrote:

I recently purchased COKER wide whites in the 165R15 size for use on my 1956
TR3.  These replace 25 year old US Royal bias tires which were long past
their
pull date!

I'm curious what tire pressures people are running with modern radial tires
on
a TR3?

By the way, based on advice from list members, I'm using a 155R15 in the
spare
compartment with a 48 spoke Dayton wheel.  While I would have preferred to go
with 155R15's at the four corners as well, wide whites are not really an
affordable option in this size.  The only supplier I could find was
DiamondBack who will put a wide white on a 155R15 BF Goodrich TA for $227 a
pop.  Given the expected use. COKER's in-house 165R15 at $160 per tire won
out.  COKER also offers a 165R15 WW BF Goodrich (which they make) for  $194
which is about where I think Diamondback's offering should be.

Interesting aside:  We just returned from our annual trek to Stowe (in the
TR4A).  Joining us was John, a friend with his 1959 TR3A which he has had
since new!  John is running 165R15 radials on 48 spoke Dunlops and the spare
is also a (probably very old) 165R15 which fits the spare compartment but
tightly!

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
  Brian Thomas                    E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
  92 Wyona Lane, R R 1       Phone:  613-385-1947
  Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:     54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR,
75 John Deere 920
  CANADA   K0H 2Y0

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 18:07:47 2014
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 20:08:13 -0400
References: <mailman.12.1411581602.3546.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Cc: bkahler1@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 radiator shrouds
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sep 24, 2014, at 1:09 PM, bkahler1@gmail.com wrote:

>
> Ed,
>
> I attached a picture of one of the cars I took a picture of on the show
> field.  You can see the gap at the side of the radiator where the shroud is
> wider than the radiator itself allowing airflow around the sides of the
> radiator.
>
> I have not seen Richard Goods TR4 shroud on a car, only the pictures on his
> website.  From the website pictures the shroud appears to be the same width
> as the factory (and aftermarket) shrouds.  Supposedly the TR4 and TR4A
> shrouds are the same, at least according to Moss's catalog.
>
> Could you send me a picture or two of your shroud installation?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
I just installed the Richard Good TR4 Polished Stainless Shroud. It is a high
quality product and fits perfectly. The finish is mirror-like - amazing. You
cannot really see the polished surface in the photos because the mirror finish
reflects the under hood paint just like a mirror. The top of the shroud lines
up with the top of the rad fins. The sides are just slightly wider that the
sides of the rad.

NOTE: The photos will not appear on the list copy but are included in the copy
to Brad.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF8347D5CF5@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 21:06:38 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tire Pressures for TR3 with 165R15's?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 11:06 AM, Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca> wrote:
> I'm curious what tire pressures people are running with modern radial tires on
> a TR3?

Could you do some arithmetic to figure out the size of the contact
patch on the original tires, then calculate back to get the same patch
on the new tires?  Might be a starting place.

Or, you could just put something reasonable in, like the
aforementioned 28psi and see how it handles.  But I'm an engineer, I
don't go in for simple solutions.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:38:14 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I know this is a long shot but I've always wondered what happened to the
first Triumph that I owned but here goes :)

Back in early fall of 1978 I was getting ready to move to Denver from
Lincoln Nebraska.  At the time I owned a bright yellow with yellow factory
hard top 1963 Spitfire and a 1973 TR6.  I needed to sell one of the two and
opted to sell the Spitfire since it was a running project and the TR6 was
only 5 years old at the time.

I put the Spitfire in the newspaper want ads and a gentleman contacted me
about the car.  He came over to look at it saying he was looking for a
project car as his family had just been transferred to Lincoln by his
employer.   We agreed on a price and he took possession of the car and I
subsequently moved to Denver.

So if anyone knows who the purchaser might have been or what might have
happened to the car in the intervening years I would love to know more.  It
was a good solid car that deserved a restoration.

Thanks!

Brad
Richmond, KY
1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Brad Kahler'" <bkahler1@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLEgC=9oeTCdtcOJM1-7rA78gP3Q0t2xQWuzLx0c46=XvQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 10:47:48 -0500
thread-index: Ac/Y1sSZQc1s0DrTRru+4GE1rMQoQwAANrug
Subject: Re: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Brad,
Do you have the commission number?  You might check the various registries.
Or, do you have any friends at the Lincoln DMV that would do some archive
searching for you?  No commission number, maybe your former insurance
agent/company might have a record.

Just some shot-in-the-dark ideas,

Bill 

Bill Beecher
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
'67 Morgan 4/4 Comp (next in line)
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
'55 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe

"How old would you be if you didn't know how old you are?"  S. Paige

 



-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad
Kahler
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 10:38 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire

I know this is a long shot but I've always wondered what happened to the
first Triumph that I owned but here goes :)

Back in early fall of 1978 I was getting ready to move to Denver from
Lincoln Nebraska.  At the time I owned a bright yellow with yellow factory
hard top 1963 Spitfire and a 1973 TR6.  I needed to sell one of the two and
opted to sell the Spitfire since it was a running project and the TR6 was
only 5 years old at the time.

I put the Spitfire in the newspaper want ads and a gentleman contacted me
about the car.  He came over to look at it saying he was looking for a
project car as his family had just been transferred to Lincoln by his
employer.   We agreed on a price and he took possession of the car and I
subsequently moved to Denver.

So if anyone knows who the purchaser might have been or what might have
happened to the car in the intervening years I would love to know more.  It
was a good solid car that deserved a restoration.

Thanks!

Brad
Richmond, KY
1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 10:26:37 2014
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 <E1660B5C3BDC4C559227C3C9FC77B0F2@bboffice>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 12:29:30 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Bill Beecher <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

I have no idea what the commission number was and not having lived in
Lincoln for so many years I don't know anyone in a working capacity that
could help me track down the sort of information required.

Insurance was handled through my dad and he passed away a number of years
ago.   Basically I've not been able to think of anyone I could contact in
Lincoln that might be able to help.

I realize the odds are really stacked against me but figured what the heck,
maybe someone will remember a bright yellow Spitfire in Lincoln back in the
late 70s early 80s.

Thanks,

Brad


On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 11:47 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Brad,
> Do you have the commission number?  You might check the various registries.
> Or, do you have any friends at the Lincoln DMV that would do some archive
> searching for you?  No commission number, maybe your former insurance
> agent/company might have a record.
>
> Just some shot-in-the-dark ideas,
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> '67 Morgan 4/4 Comp (next in line)
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> '55 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe
>
> "How old would you be if you didn't know how old you are?"  S. Paige
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad
> Kahler
> Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 10:38 AM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire
>
> I know this is a long shot but I've always wondered what happened to the
> first Triumph that I owned but here goes :)
>
> Back in early fall of 1978 I was getting ready to move to Denver from
> Lincoln Nebraska.  At the time I owned a bright yellow with yellow factory
> hard top 1963 Spitfire and a 1973 TR6.  I needed to sell one of the two and
> opted to sell the Spitfire since it was a running project and the TR6 was
> only 5 years old at the time.
>
> I put the Spitfire in the newspaper want ads and a gentleman contacted me
> about the car.  He came over to look at it saying he was looking for a
> project car as his family had just been transferred to Lincoln by his
> employer.   We agreed on a price and he took possession of the car and I
> subsequently moved to Denver.
>
> So if anyone knows who the purchaser might have been or what might have
> happened to the car in the intervening years I would love to know more.  It
> was a good solid car that deserved a restoration.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> Richmond, KY
> 1963 TR4
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 10:51:54 2014
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References: <mailman.12.1411581602.3546.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <9B1C3A35-7BEC-46C5-AFA7-ADB98D81CC07@execulink.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 12:54:45 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 radiator shrouds
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Keith,

It took me a little time to recognize the actual radiator shroud due to the
high polish and the reflections of the red body paint!

Definitely nice looking although it might look a little bit out of place on
my clapped out white TR4 :)

Thanks!

Brad


On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
wrote:

> On Sep 24, 2014, at 1:09 PM, bkahler1@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
> Ed,
>
> I attached a picture of one of the cars I took a picture of on the show
> field.  You can see the gap at the side of the radiator where the shroud is
> wider than the radiator itself allowing airflow around the sides of the
> radiator.
>
> I have not seen Richard Goods TR4 shroud on a car, only the pictures on his
> website.  From the website pictures the shroud appears to be the same width
> as the factory (and aftermarket) shrouds.  Supposedly the TR4 and TR4A
> shrouds are the same, at least according to Moss's catalog.
>
> Could you send me a picture or two of your shroud installation?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
>
> I just installed the Richard Good TR4 Polished Stainless Shroud. It is a
> high quality product and fits perfectly. The finish is mirror-like -
> amazing. You cannot really see the polished surface in the photos because
> the mirror finish reflects the under hood paint just like a mirror. The top
> of the shroud lines up with the top of the rad fins. The sides are just
> slightly wider that the sides of the rad.
>
> NOTE: The photos will not appear on the list copy but are included in the
> copy to Brad.
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Brad Kahler'" <bkahler1@gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLEgC=9oeTCdtcOJM1-7rA78gP3Q0t2xQWuzLx0c46=XvQ@mail.gmail.com><E1660B5C3BDC4C559227C3C9FC77B0F2@bboffice>
 <CADm3DLFPH6mFwUjXUh5UuiAdi-g3Sc7D3CbCyU9mYJ5n-s47sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 12:23:13 -0500
thread-index: Ac/Y3eK20ESl3nT3RjuaXS/kz8wVJAABqqfw
Cc: 'Triumphs' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You never know, it's worth a shot.  I'm still looking for my first TR3A that
I sold in 1970 in Richmond, VA.
 
Maybe someone should start a "POs looking for past cars" web site.
 
B

  _____  

From: Brad Kahler [mailto:bkahler1@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 11:29 AM
To: Bill Beecher
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire


Bill, 

I have no idea what the commission number was and not having lived in
Lincoln for so many years I don't know anyone in a working capacity that
could help me track down the sort of information required.  

Insurance was handled through my dad and he passed away a number of years
ago.   Basically I've not been able to think of anyone I could contact in
Lincoln that might be able to help.

I realize the odds are really stacked against me but figured what the heck,
maybe someone will remember a bright yellow Spitfire in Lincoln back in the
late 70s early 80s.

Thanks,

Brad


On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 11:47 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:


Brad,
Do you have the commission number?  You might check the various registries.
Or, do you have any friends at the Lincoln DMV that would do some archive
searching for you?  No commission number, maybe your former insurance
agent/company might have a record.

Just some shot-in-the-dark ideas,

Bill

Bill Beecher
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
'67 Morgan 4/4 Comp (next in line)
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
'55 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe

"How old would you be if you didn't know how old you are?"  S. Paige





-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad
Kahler
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 10:38 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire

I know this is a long shot but I've always wondered what happened to the
first Triumph that I owned but here goes :)

Back in early fall of 1978 I was getting ready to move to Denver from
Lincoln Nebraska.  At the time I owned a bright yellow with yellow factory
hard top 1963 Spitfire and a 1973 TR6.  I needed to sell one of the two and
opted to sell the Spitfire since it was a running project and the TR6 was
only 5 years old at the time.

I put the Spitfire in the newspaper want ads and a gentleman contacted me
about the car.  He came over to look at it saying he was looking for a
project car as his family had just been transferred to Lincoln by his
employer.   We agreed on a price and he took possession of the car and I
subsequently moved to Denver.

So if anyone knows who the purchaser might have been or what might have
happened to the car in the intervening years I would love to know more.  It
was a good solid car that deserved a restoration.

Thanks!

Brad
Richmond, KY
1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 15:27:29 2014
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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Subject: [TR] Previous Owner Wanted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's another long shot:  Instead of looking for my old car, I'm looking for
it's original owner.


I bought my 1965 TR4A, CTC55423LO,  from Jerome Bernsen
in Thousand Oaks, CA in February of 1985.  Jerome, who worked for Xerox in El
Segundo at the time, could not recall who he bought it from but I suspect it
was the original owner.  I think it changed hands about 1977.  Perhaps Jerome
was the third owner.  Someone replaced several fenders and at least one door,
did some bodywork and had it repainted in lacquer, prior to my ownership.
According to the Heritage Trust Certificate, the original buyer took
possession at the factory but it subsequently went to Honolulu.  That sorta
tells me he was a serviceman in 1965.  Assuming he was in his early 20's at
the time, he's between 70 and 75 now and may still be alive.


The TR4A was
Triumph Racing Green, with a black leather interior, Surrey top and overdrive.
The original steel wheels were painted white when I bought the car.


As the
50th anniversary of my car's manufacture date approaches, it would be great to
finally close the gap and locate the original owner.


Is there anyone in
California, or anywhere, who might recall this car?  Thanks in advance.
George Haynes

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 12:46:25 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Trying to locate my old 63 Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Resending, don't think the first one went through:

Brad, Lincoln Nebraska, 1978?  you are talkin about m mm my  generation.  I
 was driving a Sprite (my first car) around Lincoln at that time, I don't
 remember a yellow 63 Spitfire, but we have an active club and a few of the
 guys have been active with British cars as long as I have.  I'll poke 
around
 a little bit, there was a guy named Scott Clifford who I think had had 
quite
 a few Triumphs, but he was a little older than me, and I don't think he is
 into the British scene so much anymore.

 Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:51:19 -0600
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Spitfire and GT6 vertical link?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

Moss lists a 661-035 part number for a LH vertical link for Spitfires and a
661-045 for GT6s. Can anyone tell me if they are indeed different parts and
how I can tell one from the other if there is a difference. Im hoping its as
easy as measuring them.

I need one that doesnt have the threads for the calipers stripped out (thanks
PO). I just need the vertical link (or stub axle carrier to be specific) not
the ball joints or trunnion.

Thanks for the help.
Bud Rolofson



Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 13:25:57 2014
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To: levilevi@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire and GT6 vertical link?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Yes, they are different, as the Spitfire (save for very early ones) had
caliper mounting ears cast into the link, and the tie rod bolted in part to
the back of the stub axle;the GT6 utilized a bolt-on mounting plate for the
(larger on the GT6) calipers, and a different tie rod passed through the
vertical link and bolted to the back of same. 

 

--Andy Mace

*Mrs
Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet,
it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines
Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6
vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check
out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us
 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bud
R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri,
Sep 26, 2014 2:53 pm
Subject: [TR] Spitfire and GT6 vertical link?


List,
Moss lists a 661-035 part number for a LH vertical link for Spitfires and a
661-045 for GT6s. Can anyone tell me if they are indeed different parts and
how I can tell one from the other if there is a difference. Im hoping its as
easy as measuring them.

I need one that doesnt have the threads for the
calipers stripped out (thanks
PO). I just need the vertical link (or stub axle
carrier to be specific) not
the ball joints or trunnion.

Thanks for the help.
Bud Rolofson



Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365
(Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE
engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly
Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net
**

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 17:28:04 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 16:29:46 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Genuine Minilites
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings. I'm interested in getting some genuine Minilites. I've only been
able to get a quote from the UK operation; the US operation doesn't seem to
respond. Does anyone know any other US sources? As you might guess, Minilites
are expensive enough without shipping from the UK!

Thanks.

b Jeff

1962 Triumph TR4
Surrey Top
Overdrive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 10:57:48 2014
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 11:00:08 -0600
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Subject: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List, thanks for all the help with questions about my Spitfire vertical link.
On my second try with a heli coil I got the caliper bolt to hold with the
recommended 65 ft/lbs of torque. The first time I followed the hell coil
instructions and counter sunk the hell coil just a bit. As it turns out the
caliper bolt need those few extra threads at the very top of the hole. I set
the hell coil at the top and there was enough threads to hold the needed
torque. I painted a red stripe on one flat of the bolt head/caliper to easily
check for any movement.

Dont know what got into me with reading and following the hell coil
instructions. That usually doesnt happen.

Love this list,
Bud Rolofson



Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 13:39:46 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bud R'" <levilevi@comcast.net>, "'triumph list'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 12:42:36 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/adIF0wY4sQypUQaSc+BEYIqhCTwAFf9aQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> On my second try with a heli coil I got the caliper bolt to 
> hold with the
> recommended 65 ft/lbs of torque. 

Uhm, so what happens when you jump on the brakes for a panic stop and the force on the threads goes up?  The force on the caliper is
going to be somewhere around 1/3 to 1/2 the weight of the car.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 15:09:15 2014
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From: Me <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 15:11:34 -0600
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Most of the force will be shear force on the bolt not pull force on the
threads. That was how it was explained to me.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2014, at 1:42 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On my second try with a heli coil I got the caliper bolt to
>> hold with the
>> recommended 65 ft/lbs of torque.
>
> Uhm, so what happens when you jump on the brakes for a panic stop and the
force on the threads goes up?  The force on the caliper is
> going to be somewhere around 1/3 to 1/2 the weight of the car.
>
> Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 15:34:16 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'triumph list'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 14:36:41 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/al7PjSjs0sDzESrq07RDUZ00KggAAzknA
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Most of the force will be shear force on the bolt not pull 
> force on the
> threads. That was how it was explained to me.

Quite true, the threads only get a fraction of the force.  How big is a fraction of a half ton?

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 16:04:20 2014
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User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 seat belt buzzer
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is weird. '74 TR6, Dad bought it new. Disabled the seat belt interlock with the first week or two.
These days it is in the care of the son. Son replaced the ignition switch and the headlight switch.

Now when you turn the key to start it, the "Fasten Belts" light comes on and the buzzer buzzes. How
on earth did the bypass which was working fine for many years suddenly becomes unbypassed? Wonder what
the son really did behind the dash? TIme to look at some wiring diagrams.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 16:11:43 2014
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From: Me <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 16:14:27 -0600
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Apparently less than 65 ft/lbs.

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 27, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> Most of the force will be shear force on the bolt not pull
>> force on the
>> threads. That was how it was explained to me.
>
> Quite true, the threads only get a fraction of the force.  How big is a
fraction of a half ton?
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 17:53:48 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Me'" <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 16:55:01 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/aoG1GiJc0v9tNQjmjCou72y6FmgADdf4Q
Cc: 'triumph list' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Apparently less than 65 ft/lbs.

Ok, I'll buy that.  So the force nearly doubles during panic breaking.  Is your new joint twice as strong as the old one?

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 18:00:14 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, "'Triumphs'"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 17:03:04 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/an2U6j3LwFTrTQK2NoOpwJnqrrgAD5jfQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 seat belt buzzer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Now when you turn the key to start it, the "Fasten Belts" 
> light comes on and the buzzer buzzes. How
> on earth did the bypass which was working fine for many years 
> suddenly becomes unbypassed?

Had that happen with an old VW Rabbit.  Previous owner had cut and twisted together the wires to the seat belt sensor.  The wires in
the twist oxidized until the module thought the switch was open (meaning the belt wasn't fastened).

> Wonder what
> the son really did behind the dash? TIme to look at some 
> wiring diagrams.

To disable it forever, remove the plug from the module then cut and splice the white/orange to the white/red.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 20:15:32 2014
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From: Me <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 20:18:12 -0600
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I trust that Standard Triumph engineers designed brake systems and
specifications to include the possibility of panic braking. We should park
them if they didn't.

Bud

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Apparently less than 65 ft/lbs.
>
> Ok, I'll buy that.  So the force nearly doubles during panic breaking.  Is
your new joint twice as strong as the old one?
>
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 23:25:47 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Me'" <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 22:28:05 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/awnzWfIGxHXKmT42ZBCDpl18SPwAGdIqw
Cc: 'triumph list' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I trust that Standard Triumph engineers designed brake systems and
> specifications to include the possibility of panic braking. 

Well, perhaps I misunderstood.  They also did not design critical bolted joints such that missing one or two threads would cause
them to fail.  You posted 
"The first time I followed the hell coil
instructions and counter sunk the hell coil just a bit. As it turns out the
caliper bolt need those few extra threads at the very top of the hole.  As it turns out the caliper bolt need those few extra
threads at the very top of the hole."

I'm just suggesting that there might be something else going on, that's all.

Carry on,
Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
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The important thing is if the bolt can be tightened to 65 ft/lbs. That's the
design spec with or without a heli coil. One way worked one didn't.

Unlike some I do like my car to be safe. I'm ok with the bolt at 65 ft/ lbs
with a heli coil.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 27, 2014, at 11:28 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>> I trust that Standard Triumph engineers designed brake systems and
>> specifications to include the possibility of panic braking.
>
> Well, perhaps I misunderstood.  They also did not design critical bolted
joints such that missing one or two threads would cause
> them to fail.  You posted
> "The first time I followed the hell coil
> instructions and counter sunk the hell coil just a bit. As it turns out the
> caliper bolt need those few extra threads at the very top of the hole.  As
it turns out the caliper bolt need those few extra
> threads at the very top of the hole."
>
> I'm just suggesting that there might be something else going on, that's
all.
>
> Carry on,
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 03:33:30 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Me'" <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 02:35:43 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/a53TdftRVWpdZSeK18lTT5/CyAgAGATKQ
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Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
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> The important thing is if the bolt can be tightened to 65 
> ft/lbs. 

I guess we all have our priorities.  Mine would be that the bolt not rip out when I pounce on the brakes.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 10:56:39 2014
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To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
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I dont understand why you think that would happen. Is there some information
about hell coils not working that youre not referencing?

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Sep 28, 2014, at 3:35 AM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
>> The important thing is if the bolt can be tightened to 65
>> ft/lbs.
>
> I guess we all have our priorities.  Mine would be that the bolt not rip out
when I pounce on the brakes.
>
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 11:47:44 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'triumph list'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 10:50:11 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/bPZQGUXEmQZLFRLKpyTMG9dp1fAABiTxQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
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> I dont understand why you think that would happen. Is there
> some information
> about hell coils not working that youre not referencing?

No, Heli-coils are fine.  But the joint should not have failed just because
you left out the last turn of Heli-coil (as directed).
There is likely something else going on.

My point is that the maximum stress on those threads is more than just the
initial 65 ftlb.  So just because it held when you
torqued the bolt down does not mean it will hold in service.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
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Since weve come full circle on this subject Ill stop.

Regards,
Bud

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)


On Sep 28, 2014, at 11:50 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> I dont understand why you think that would happen. Is there
>> some information
>> about hell coils not working that youre not referencing?
>
> No, Heli-coils are fine.  But the joint should not have failed just because
> you left out the last turn of Heli-coil (as directed).
> There is likely something else going on.
>
> My point is that the maximum stress on those threads is more than just the
> initial 65 ftlb.  So just because it held when you
> torqued the bolt down does not mean it will hold in service.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 13:02:00 2014
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From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
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Here's my two cent's worth.  The bolt is in shear.  The clamping force
applied to one brake pad by the piston is balanced out the pad and 
piston on
the other side.  TR6's are notorious for having woobly 
spindles but even so
the pads and pistons should shift back and forth 
quite easily applying very
little force on the bolt.  The considerable 
force applied to the caliper
bolts are the braking force applied in 
shear and what little offset there
might be.

However, I agree with Randall in that if adding one thread means
the 
difference between the bolt taking the torque and not taking it, you
have a marginal situation.  Normal overdesign is much greater than a 
few
percent.  It should be closer to 2 to 1 or greater.

So, why did the first
attempt fail?  Could it be that the hole is so 
large that there is little
material into which the helicoil tap can cut 
threads?  when it failed the
first time did the coil itself pull out 
any?

If you do have a failure the
sequence of events will be the bolt pulls 
out a bit loosing its torque
setting and now the bolt is loose.  It 
will shake and back itself out until
the caliper is free to rotate on 
the other bolt when it could drop inwards
and the caliper bridge piece 
rides on the disc.  This will be noticeable by
the sound it makes.  The 
other possibility is it will fall outward and start
rubbing the ID of 
the wheel,  Depending on the wheel design it could cause
the wheel to 
lock up at an inopportune time.

I'm not trying to scare you
but I want to see you at the next VTR.  And 
the one after that.

Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: 'triumph
list' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 28, 2014 12:50 pm
Subject:
Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link


> I dont understand
why you think that would happen. Is there
> some information
> about hell
coils not working that youre not referencing?

No, Heli-coils are fine.  But
the joint should not have failed just 
because
you left out the last turn of
Heli-coil (as directed).
There is likely something else going on.

My point
is that the maximum stress on those threads is more than just 
the
initial
65 ftlb.  So just because it held when you
torqued the bolt down does not
mean it will hold in service.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

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To: 'Triumphs' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 seat belt buzzer
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Randall wrote:

>
> To disable it forever, remove the plug from the module then cut and splice the white/orange to the white/red.

So where is this module located? I'm not as experienced with the later cars as the earlier ones.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 13:58:19 -0700
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: mark@bradakis.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 seat belt buzzer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes.........right at the module plug in the passenger side under-dash.


------------------------------
On Sun, Sep 28, 2014 2:47 PM CDT Mark J Bradakis wrote:

>Randall wrote:
>
>>
>> To disable it forever, remove the plug from the module then cut and splice the white/orange to the white/red.
>
>So where is this module located? I'm not as experienced with the later cars as the earlier ones.
>
>mjb.
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 17:40:42 2014
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 16:43:34 -0700
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-3 rear brake cylinder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been trying to remove the rear cylinder and its being held in by a plate that slides up and down with it. It doesn't seem to come free, Does anyone have any ideas?  thanks, Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 17:45:31 2014
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'JOSEPH MATO'" <joemato@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <wnk81o00F0NyJgq01nk9iT>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 16:48:30 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 rear brake cylinder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There are actually 2 or 3 thin pieces to this assy.  If you look closely,
there are some tabs that interlock the pieces together.  You need to get a
screwdriver between the shims to clear the tabs.  

One piece goes in from the right and the other from the left of the cyl.

 If they are in rough shape and need to be replaced anyway, you can pound
the tabs flat with a punch and hammer.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JOSEPH
MATO
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2014 4:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-3 rear brake cylinder

I have been trying to remove the rear cylinder and its being held in by a
plate that slides up and down with it. It doesn't seem to come free, Does
anyone have any ideas?  thanks, Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 19:38:56 -0700
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 & 6 Sightings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Driving home tonight I spied a red TR3A with a white or tan soft top up driving through Palmdale, CA on Highway 14 at about 5:15 PM. At about 5:45 I saw a dark blue or green TR6 thundering down Tehachapi Willow Springs road going south. Were those anyone on the list? I guess that they were coming back from Triumphest in Santa Maria.
     Just curious.

     -Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 01:14:27 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'JOSEPH MATO'" <joemato@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 00:16:43 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/bdgaTz+NBB7g9T5a8EY0Y9LfYggAPkhfQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 rear brake cylinder
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have been trying to remove the rear cylinder and its being 
> held in by a plate that slides up and down with it. It 
> doesn't seem to come free, Does anyone have any ideas?  thanks, Joe

Should actually be three pieces, two larger plates and a small one; each with a slot that fits over the neck of the cylinder.  One
of the larger plates has tabs that engage slots in the other large plate.  You'll have to jamb a screwdriver or something in there
to disengage the tabs, then tap out the plate that has it's opening towards the brake lever.  Once it is out, work the lever out of
place and the other two tabs should come out easily with the lever out of the way.

You can find basically the same instructions in the appendix to the factory workshop manual (later edition with the TR3 supplement).
http://goo.gl/Oz0eOM

Note that the drawing they gave (which is copied in many other places) is wrong.  But the text description is correct.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 05:40:07 2014
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References: <1411958336.93733.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 & 6 Sightings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw a red TR3A on Miss Marple last night.  Right Hand Drive.

Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To:
Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 28, 2014 9:39 pm
Subject:
[TR] TR3 & 6 Sightings


      Driving home tonight I spied a red TR3A with
a white or tan soft 
top up
driving through Palmdale, CA on Highway 14 at
about 5:15 PM. At about 
5:45 I saw
a dark blue or green TR6 thundering down
Tehachapi Willow Springs road 
going
south. Were those anyone on the list? I
guess that they were coming 
back from
Triumphest in Santa Maria.
     Just
curious.

     -Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 06:42:54 2014
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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 06:45:15 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Congratulations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

To Doug B from Nebraska who took a first in class for his 1968 TR GT6+ 
at the Santa Fe Concorso yesterday. I doubt that one any better exists..
Dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 06:52:07 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5429545B.5000109@porterscustom.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 07:54:16 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Congratulations
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave, Doug Buchanan is in my club, he used to vintage race a GT6 
(different car), the GT6 was restored by another member of my club 
(Flatwater Austin Healey) Bob Weddington who lives in Lincoln with me, and 
did a true home/amateur I did it all myself restoration on the car several 
years ago, we have compared notes and swapped parts over the years, I don't 
think Doug is on the list, or if he is he is a lurker, same with Bob, I will 
pass the congrats on to both, Regards, Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 08:02:25 2014
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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 10:04:48 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for the help on Spit vertical link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 1:00 PM, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
> The first time I followed the hell coil
> instructions and counter sunk the hell coil just a bit. As it turns out the
> caliper bolt need those few extra threads at the very top of the hole. I set
> the hell coil at the top and there was enough threads to hold the needed
> torque.

Unless the bolt is too short for some reason, I don't see how this
could be the case.  I would expect a Heli-Coil to work fine in any
application where it's installed according to directions.  The only
time I've had one fail is when the underlying material is too weak
(usually due to insufficient thread depth in the oversize hole), and
the insert pulls out under torque.  This doesn't sound like your case,
since you found that less insertion leads to a better joint.  Perhaps
it went all the way through the underlying piece the first time?

Bear in mind that most Heli-Coils of a given diameter come in several
different lengths...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 18:03:15 2014
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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:06:08 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - Hood stay vibration.
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Hello List:
Trying to track down the annoying vibrations/rattles in my '2 as I am 
putting more miles on the car. Have a very pronounced rattle at idle 
which I have tracked down to the hood stay pivot and the possibly the 
hood catch pivot. (Thanks to Randall for posting the Triumph Service 
Bulletin covering this issue). The Service Bulletin recommends "packing" 
these pivots/joints with suitable packing material. What would that be??
Any ideas how to tighten up these riveted joints? I have tried greasing 
them, with little difference. Would re-pounding these riveted joints help?
Thanks for any insights into this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 29 19:20:23 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 18:23:16 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - Hood stay vibration.
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> The Service Bulletin 
> recommends "packing" 
> these pivots/joints with suitable packing material. What 
> would that be??

'Kite' string should do.

> Any ideas how to tighten up these riveted joints? I have 
> tried greasing 
> them, with little difference. Would re-pounding these riveted 
> joints help?

Both of those joints need to be a little bit loose.

Have you tried changing the motor mounts?

Randall

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From: "Ronnie Babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net>
To: "triumphs2 TRlist " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2014 17:49:41 -0400
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 30 15:54:55 2014
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From: "Ronnie Babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net>
To: "triumphs2 TRlist " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2014 17:57:31 -0400
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Subject: [TR] GT6 engine rebuild
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I'm currently helping a friend rebuild his GT6 engine for a project his
building.what is the best method to use to ensure that I have the crank and
cam timed correctly. When I built my TR3 I got one tooth off and it created
a nightmare . I do not want to replicate the same mistake..

 

 

ronnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2014 17:16:55 -0500
References: <016e01cfdcf8$70f5a2a0$52e0e7e0$@cox.net>
To: Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a@cox.net>
Cc: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Got it!

Sent from mobile Bill

On Sep 30, 2014, at 4:49 PM, Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a@cox.net> wrote:



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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 30 17:29:40 2014
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Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2014 19:31:48 -0400
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
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To: Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a@cox.net>, triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <04e401cfdcf9$88e8f690$9abae3b0$@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 engine rebuild
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The trick is knowing which side of the cam gear to use. Flipping it over 
as well as rotating it relative to the bolt holes allows a +/- 4 degree 
adv/retard of the cam timing.
Once happy with the crank position, and the chain gear 'notch' in line 
with the center lines of the cam and crank, it's the chain on the 
distributor side of the engine that should be taught if you have the 
gears lined up correctly. crank and cam in the right position.

rotating the cam to the right position can be frustrating at first until 
you realize it's simply the #1 valve closing just before the #2 valve 
starts to open.... frustrating as you can not do it with #1 piston  AT  
TDC. So you need to back the piston down a bit...better to move it to 
the upstroke ... measure the cam center by seeing which valve opens (#1 
and #2) ..if all goes well.... putting the chain on and putting the cam 
sprocket up to the cam the holes should line up easily.
see attached page scan

manual pic


ptegler




On 9/30/2014 5:57 PM, Ronnie Babbitt wrote:
> I'm currently helping a friend rebuild his GT6 engine for a project his
> building.what is the best method to use to ensure that I have the crank and
> cam timed correctly. When I built my TR3 I got one tooth off and it created
> a nightmare . I do not want to replicate the same mistake..
>
>   
>
>   
>
> ronnie
>
> **triumphs@autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
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