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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 09:31:48 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Sill Splatter Coating
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the best product for this application is a product called Chip Guard.
It is an elastomeric spray-on coating available in black or clear.  And it is
paintable.  It remains flexible and will repel small rocks and sand and
whatnot.  You can find it at any Auto Paint shop.  I used it on my TR8 and it
held up well over the nine or so years  drove that car.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>


     So when repainting a TR6 under the lower side chrome strip there is some
rough stuff that is sort of like hard splattered undercoating. Part of mine
is
sanded off smooth. If a guy wants to re-do it, what do you use? Does anyone
scrape off the old coating and just paint it the body color instead of the
satin black?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 07:46:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 14:46:24 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] A piece of Standard Triumph history?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I was browsing the 'net' today and came across an old friend that's currently
up for sale with TRBitz in the UK. 
Claimed as the second TR5 off the line
isn't perhaps exactly true. I'm inclined to think it was probably the second
one of what we used to call 'off tools'  - i.e. it was more likely pieced
together in the production hall rather than go down the line itself. If you
pulled it to pieces now, it's likely you'd find quite a few oddball features
that weren't on later cars - even the early ones.
For the purists, this car is
LHP 289 F and was one of three 'Press' cars that were sequentially numbered
LHP 288 F to LHP 290 F. This car is very much of an old friend as it was based
in London and I drove it many times as a customer 'demonstrator'. There is no
doubt (IMHO) that these three 5's were probably the fastest examples of any 5
ever made and I drove 288, 289 and 290 several times. They were
all outstandingly fast and far faster off the line than later production 5s
and certainly injected TR6s.
If you're of a mind to acquire a 5, TRBitz are
flogging this one for GBP50k which is about
US$78k. http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C384630# 
As for me, i've no option
but to remember - and with a lot of happy memories.

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 09:37:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Dave Massey
	<dave1massey@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Sill Splatter Coating
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

3M body schutz is closest to original.  Any pro body shop sopply should have
it.

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 11:21:28 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 10:21:10 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6mt+C8oEP4b19ARYCzIf1eNMs27wAf47ag
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 temp sensor
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm with Greg, I think you are moving the outer shield (there is a metal
collar right next to the bulb plus of course the spiral wound wire) rather
than the bulb itself.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 17:52:20 +0000 (UTC)
From: pdqtr6@comcast.net
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Exhausts
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have any valid opinions and 
experiences? 

Bill in Tehachapi 

Bill -- There is no such thing! Opinions are what cause land to sell and people to marry. And there is no consensus about why. There are some people who want a bit of rasp in their exhaust note, and others who only want a low burble. A DPO of my TR3 stuck a garden hose up the tail pipe and then started the engine and revved it thus blowing out some of the baffles. Too loud for me, but "just right" for him. I have the stock TR6 exhaust on mine and it produces a nice low note that is remarkably smooth - just what I like. But then again, I don't/won't own a Harley either! 


Tom Walling 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 12:06:26 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 14:03:11 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Sill Splatter Coating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably.  But I seem to recall that stuff tends to look tired after a 
modest number of years whereas the Chip Guard (which was formulated to protect 
painted areas as opposed to being an undercoat) keeps it gloss longer.

If you want originality use Body Schutz.

Dave

In a message dated 9/1/2013 11:37:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
triumph74tr6@yahoo.com writes: 
> 3M body schutz is closest to original. Any pro body shop sopply should 
> have it.
> 
>  Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
> 
>  
> 
> From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>; 
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>; 
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Sill Splatter Coating 
> Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2013 1:31:48 PM 
> 
> 
> I think the best product for this application is a product called Chip 
> Guard.
> It is an elastomeric spray-on coating available in black or clear.  And it 
> is
> paintable.  It remains flexible and will repel small rocks and sand and
> whatnot.  You can find it at any Auto Paint shop.  I used it on my TR8 and 
> it
> held up well over the nine or so years  drove that car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 12:37:05 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <pdqtr6@comcast.net>
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 14:36:48 -0400
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Exhausts
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Great answer..... just like beauty is in the eyes of the beholder......... 
same holds true for exhaust notes....... one man's melodic symphony is 
another man's ear busting heavy metal rock...... my stock steel is going on 
15 years old and it still sounds great.


Bob Danielson
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Fender Blankets for TR4/250/6/7/8 & MGB
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm

-----Original Message----- 
From: pdqtr6@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 1:52 PM
To: William Brewer
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Exhausts

Bill -- There is no such thing! Opinions are what cause land to sell and 
people to marry. And there is no consensus about why. There are some people 
who want a bit of rasp in their exhaust note, and others who only want a low 
burble. A DPO of my TR3 stuck a garden hose up the tail pipe and then 
started the engine and revved it thus blowing out some of the baffles. Too 
loud for me, but "just right" for him. I have the stock TR6 exhaust on mine 
and it produces a nice low note that is remarkably smooth - just what I 
like. But then again, I don't/won't own a Harley either!


Tom Walling

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 15:55:09 2013
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 14:52:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Exhausts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bill
helped my buddy put the dual stainless system from moss on his TR6. wow
does it sound perfect.
 
Frank

From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To:
Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2013 9:54 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhausts


    I am looking to upgrade the exhaust on my
1974 TR6. The stock exhaust is
way to quit. I have been looking online and
listening to the videos on
youtube. It looks like the Tourist Trophy exhaust
might be quietest, but I am
not sure. Several guys complained that the Monza
and Falcon exhausts were too
loud. There are also the Ansa exhausts. Anyone
have any valid opinions and
experiences?

    Bill in Tehachapi

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 18:47:41 2013
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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1378011252.7863.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2013 20:43:15 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Exhausts
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Hi Bill;

I agree with you that the stock exhaust is too quiet. However, what I
consider to be perfect may be appalling to you; it's a matter of personal
preference. When I was shopping for a system back in the '80s, I listened to
cars using the Stebro system and they were a bit too loud for me. Then I
listened to cars with Monza exhausts and really didn't care for the raspy
sound. I ended up putting an ANSA dual exhaust system on my car and it's
still going strong 30 years later. It has a nice resonance that fits my
taste to a tee and has a natural sweet spot at 62 MPH. I have heard good
things about the Tourist Trophy exhaust but I have no first-hand knowledge.
Compare with the opinions you get from others and decide what's right for
you. 

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 12:54 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhausts

     I am looking to upgrade the exhaust on my 1974 TR6. The stock exhaust
is way to quit. I have been looking online and listening to the videos on
youtube. It looks like the Tourist Trophy exhaust might be quietest, but I
am not sure. Several guys complained that the Monza and Falcon exhausts were
too loud. There are also the Ansa exhausts. Anyone have any valid opinions
and experiences?

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 01:26:22 2013
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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 19:18:25 +1200
Thread-Index: Ac6nrJ0M/ABB9FrtQou0VEmwIIhNVQ==
Subject: [TR] head gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just finished torquing down my TR4 head and think I've put the head gasket
upside down.
Its a composite copper asbestos looking one with no top marking.
So after googling I thought that the smooth side should go againt the head
and the side with the copper folded over around the chambers against the
liners.
then it occurred to me that I vaguely remember one of Randals photos with
them the other way around.
Does anyone know?
If I have I understand that those type of head gaskets are oncers?
 
Jim and the the TR4 thats being slowly reassembled

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 06:04:56 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 05:04:06 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jim Vassiliadis <jimstr4@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] head gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim --

I don't think it matters on those.  In fact I believe they are holed (for
the single oil passage) in two corners so they are not 'handed'.

Also, I have been known to reuse a head gasket when the gasket itself was
not the reason for the tear-down -- but I suppose that is not recommended.
In that case I put it back on with the same orientation as before.

Geo


On Mon, Sep 2, 2013 at 12:18 AM, Jim Vassiliadis <jimstr4@gmail.com> wrote:

> I just finished torquing down my TR4 head and think I've put the head
> gasket
> upside down.
> Its a composite copper asbestos looking one with no top marking.
> So after googling I thought that the smooth side should go againt the head
> and the side with the copper folded over around the chambers against the
> liners.
> then it occurred to me that I vaguely remember one of Randals photos with
> them the other way around.
> Does anyone know?
> If I have I understand that those type of head gaskets are oncers?
>
> Jim and the the TR4 thats being slowly reassembled
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 07:41:40 2013
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 15:41:09 +0200
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like a Locktite variant, and although I've never used it -- or even
heard of it, to tell the truth -- I know folks who give it a personal
recommendation.

Any input from the list?  Couldn't find a mention in the Triumphs or FOT
list archives.

http://www.screwgrab.com/

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 08:23:34 2013
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From: "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 10:20:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 glove boxes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a light tan interior on my car and replaced the glovebox years ago with
one that has the black flox on the inside. I thought I remember seeing boxes
made somewhere in various colors, anyone know who still supplies these?
Thanks for the help

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 08:24:04 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Don Hiscock'" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 07:21:09 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
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> Subject: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
> 
> Sounds like a Locktite variant, and although I've never used 
> it -- or even
> heard of it, to tell the truth -- I know folks who give it a personal
> recommendation.

I'd never heard of it either; but from a quick Google I don't think it is
like Loctite.  It's apparently an abrasive grit suspended in a gel, intended
to help a tool bit get a grip on a rounded/damaged fastener.  Kind of like
Vice Grips in a bottle.

http://www.screwgrab.com/

Slick idea.  But I wonder if valve grinding compound wouldn't work almost as
well.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 08:24:35 2013
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	<BF.05.11231.6DE94225@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 16:24:06 +0200
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yup, Randall -- they state it's "not a glue".  I've had pm from others on
the list also mentioning valve lapping compound.  It does seem that that's
a best guess as to the basic composition of the stuff in the ScrewGrab
bottle.


On Mon, Sep 2, 2013 at 4:21 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> > Subject: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
> >
> > Sounds like a Locktite variant, and although I've never used
> > it -- or even
> > heard of it, to tell the truth -- I know folks who give it a personal
> > recommendation.
>
> I'd never heard of it either; but from a quick Google I don't think it is
> like Loctite.  It's apparently an abrasive grit suspended in a gel,
> intended
> to help a tool bit get a grip on a rounded/damaged fastener.  Kind of like
> Vice Grips in a bottle.
>
> http://www.screwgrab.com/
>
> Slick idea.  But I wonder if valve grinding compound wouldn't work almost
> as
> well.
>
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 10:28:38 -0400
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDYG0r4y4iwuygzhPw2tWw_NF=XD9zfJ44ODECQMGvDTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ive never heard of it, but I'll give it a try.
On 9/2/2013 9:41 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> Sounds like a Locktite variant, and although I've never used it -- or even
> heard of it, to tell the truth -- I know folks who give it a personal
> recommendation.
>
> Any input from the list?  Couldn't find a mention in the Triumphs or FOT
> list archives.
>
> http://www.screwgrab.com/
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 08:29:27 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jim Vassiliadis'" <jimstr4@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 07:29:14 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6nrJ0M/ABB9FrtQou0VEmwIIhNVQAOyc4g
Subject: Re: [TR] head gasket
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> then it occurred to me that I vaguely remember one of Randals 
> photos with
> them the other way around.
> Does anyone know?

I do indeed install mine the other way over, but I doubt that it makes any
difference at all.  I sure wouldn't pull it apart just for that!  As Geo
noted, the gaskets have an extra hole just so you can install them either
way.

> If I have I understand that those type of head gaskets are oncers?

That is certainly best practice.  But again like Geo, I've been known to
reuse them occasionally if the liners haven't been disturbed and the gasket
appears to be in good condition.  So far, I've gotten away with it.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 08:39:21 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <BF.05.11231.6DE94225@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ever use "ScrewGrab"?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 9/2/2013 10:21 AM, Randall wrote:
>   Kind of like
> Vice Grips in a bottle.
>
> Slick idea.

Isn't it actually just the opposite?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 09:42:06 2013
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From: "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 11:33:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  TR3 glove boxes
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I found a tan one thru TRF, did a better search...txs

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 10:20 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 glove boxes


>I have a light tan interior on my car and replaced the glovebox years ago 
>with
> one that has the black flox on the inside. I thought I remember seeing 
> boxes
> made somewhere in various colors, anyone know who still supplies these?
> Thanks for the help
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 08:34:54 -0700
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Bill regarding your exhaust I have three TR6 cars One 1974 and two 1971
with three different exhaust systems I'm in Bakersfield and would welcome you
to hear all three of them and you could make your decision the exhaust was
done by John at Kings muffler in Bakersfield. My phone number is 661-900-5420.
JT

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 10:12:33 2013
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 11:05:57 -0500
To: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] head gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I specifically install the gasket with the seams down.  If you've had 
your head milled it open up the combustion chamber and you'll have 
less of the seam compressed by the head.

So, another confirmation that you're good to go and don't need to 
worry about it.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 02:18 AM 9/2/2013, Jim Vassiliadis wrote:
>I just finished torquing down my TR4 head and think I've put the head gasket
>upside down.
>Its a composite copper asbestos looking one with no top marking.
>So after googling I thought that the smooth side should go againt the head
>and the side with the copper folded over around the chambers against the
>liners.
>then it occurred to me that I vaguely remember one of Randals photos with
>them the other way around.
>Does anyone know?
>If I have I understand that those type of head gaskets are oncers?
>
>Jim and the the TR4 thats being slowly reassembled
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 10:58:42 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 09:51:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Tires & the story
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I need to get new tires on my Mallard 1974 TR6. It looks like most of us
are getting 205-70-15's or 75/15's. I get my tires from a guy near where I
work and will let him order them. Looking at TireRack.com they recommend Kumho
Solis KH16 in 205-70/15 for $72. Anyone have any recommendations? I was going
to buy Kumho's in the past and I think that the model was the Ecsta or
something like that.

     Long story short on bombarding the list with TR6
questions. My TR6 took a solid punch (for the second time, I discovered) to
the left front headlight before I bought it. I took it to a body shop that had
done a good job on my TR3A previously. They completely screwed it up and
played games with me (left car in the rain with now top, acted like they
didn't understand English and written instructions). When I got it back, the
hood couldn't be opened or closed because the hood hinge attach point was
wonkered back about 1" from where it was supposed to be. They put on bondo in
the headlight area that was 1" thick. It wasn't worth dealing with these guys
anymore and I was just happy to get my car back away from them. Then the key
was stuck in the ignition and wouldn't turn or come out. The car sat for 4
years in my garage in that state.
     SWMBO has been threatening to have the
car towed to the crusher. I also have found a Triumph Renown that want to pick
up. To avert disaster, I cut out and welded in a new front left clip (front
valence and front left inner fender) from a same year TR6. Now the hood opens
and closes like a Swiss vault and I am really happy with it. I need to take
the car to a different body shop to be repainted. I found a body & paint shop
that paints airplanes and the owner works well with us British car guys
(painted about 5 of my friends British cars) and gives us a good price. I am
taking my car there in two weeks to get it repainted.
     Now that the car is
heading back on the road (off the road since 1980!) It needs lots of love.
Seats, brakes, tires, exhaust, you name it.
     And that's the story.

   
 Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 12:46:48 2013
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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 06:42:45 +1200
Thread-index: Ac6oDDcLug9Uh1N5SPOyhAy1XYAlKQ==
Subject: [TR] head gasket
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thankyou for the replies.
Magic just what I wanted to hear, I don't have to tear down again.
Although I'm putting the little guy back together myself, the body work is
being farmed out to someone else.
I normally do everything myself but am busy trying to start up my fruitee
sodas venture.
I've found someone who charges a reasonable NZ$45 plus tax and will get him
to do a bit and see how it turns out.
I'm looking forward to driving him again.
 
Jim.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 13:18:04 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 15:12:28 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6oEDwty2yIkzTyQ6+/62brsd36qg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] CT Triumph Gathering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers - Just a reminder that the Connecticut Triumph Register will be
holding our 33rd Annual Gathering of British Motorcars this coming Sunday,
September 8th at Wickham Park in Manchester, Conn. Please visit our website
at  <http://www.CTriumph.com> http://www.CTriumph.com  for details. A
registration form can be downloaded from the website. This is a participant
- judged gathering and hasn't been rained out yet in the previous 32 years.
Hope to see you there. Thanks.

 

Sorry if this is a repeat - the first version didn't go through this
morning.

 

Alex Thomson

Treasurer, CTR

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 14:35:26 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1378140714.22208.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 16:27:44 -0400
Thread-index: AQKWyNaCh+aGrk6yutjYkNJlSnA37pgie0bQ
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Tires & the story
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill - my only suggestion is to wait on the tires until it is ready for the
road.   If the project stalls, the tires continue to age.  If you have to
get tires to get it around - find some used ones or get tubes.


 
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 12:52 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Tires & the story

     I need to get new tires on my Mallard 1974 TR6. It looks like most of
us are getting 205-70-15's or 75/15's. I get my tires from a guy near where
I work and will let him order them. Looking at TireRack.com they recommend
Kumho Solis KH16 in 205-70/15 for $72. Anyone have any recommendations? I
was going to buy Kumho's in the past and I think that the model was the
Ecsta or something like that.

     Long story short on bombarding the list with TR6 questions. My TR6 took
a solid punch (for the second time, I discovered) to the left front
headlight before I bought it. I took it to a body shop that had done a good
job on my TR3A previously. They completely screwed it up and played games
with me (left car in the rain with now top, acted like they didn't
understand English and written instructions). When I got it back, the hood
couldn't be opened or closed because the hood hinge attach point was
wonkered back about 1" from where it was supposed to be. They put on bondo
in the headlight area that was 1" thick. It wasn't worth dealing with these
guys anymore and I was just happy to get my car back away from them. Then
the key was stuck in the ignition and wouldn't turn or come out. The car sat
for 4 years in my garage in that state.
     SWMBO has been threatening to have the car towed to the crusher. I also
have found a Triumph Renown that want to pick up. To avert disaster, I cut
out and welded in a new front left clip (front valence and front left inner
fender) from a same year TR6. Now the hood opens and closes like a Swiss
vault and I am really happy with it. I need to take the car to a different
body shop to be repainted. I found a body & paint shop that paints airplanes
and the owner works well with us British car guys (painted about 5 of my
friends British cars) and gives us a good price. I am taking my car there in
two weeks to get it repainted.
     Now that the car is
heading back on the road (off the road since 1980!) It needs lots of love.
Seats, brakes, tires, exhaust, you name it.
     And that's the story.

   
 Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 20:17:58 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 19:10:56 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6oQwuHQ/XtB+3JRgujhPW8+SzziwABPDsg
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] cooling tr-3............questions on randalls post.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary,

You probably meant to send this to the list, not just to me. 

> Refilled radiator and ran car with cap off in 
> order to observe and noted no air bubbles so I don't think 
> its head gasket.

Not to belabor the point, but several times now I have had head gasket leaks
that only showed up under heavy engine load (when cylinder pressures are
highest).  With Stag #1, I could literally drive around all day if I was
gentle with the throttle; but if I floored it up a freeway ramp, it would
blow all the coolant out by the time I got to the freeway.  So not seeing
bubbles with the engine just idling doesn't necessarily mean you don't have
a leak.

>  I also noted with new cap installed and 
> during revving engine there was some seapage under the cap 
> out the overflow when engine revved, this was during a 
> radiator temperature of around 185 to 188 so it wasn't boiling.

Another sign that you are getting combustion gases into the coolant.

If you don't want to have a shop do the test; there is an "old timers" test
you can try: Remove the fan belt and thermostat housing, then fill the
system so it is level full with the outlet in the head.  Start the engine,
and quickly rev it hard, 2 or 3 times; then shut it off again.  If the water
gushes out of the head while revving the engine, you've got a combustion
leak.

> I've 
> also noticed that my new cap has no rubber gasket under it.  
> There is only a steel "washer like" surface there.

That would make it an accurate reproduction of the original cap.

> I'm wondering what modification 
> Randall made to his cap for the "longer neck" tr-3 

I started with a Stant "Lev-R-Vent" cap, and tapped out the pin that holds
the lever so the cap came apart.  Then I made an extension for the center
pin, and spacers for the spring and seal.  I wasn't really recommending that
anyone do the same; just trying to make the point that the original TR3
filler neck & cap are setup with approx 1" from the top of the neck to the
surface inside where the cap seals; while that same dimension on most newer
cars is only 3/4".

But I think you've got more going on than just the cap not sealing to the
neck.  Perhaps you should disconnect the recover bottle and get the system
working without it first, so you can tell the difference.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 22:22:20 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 21:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I had to remove a grease cap off of the front hub on my TR6. It was
seriously on there and banged up from whoever last tried to get it off. I
ended up hitting it with a cold chisel to finally get it off. What a PITA.
   
 Is there a way to set up grease caps so you can get them off easier for next
time? I was thinking of drilling a hole through the center and mig welding a
nut on the outside so I could thread a bolt through and push against the stub
axle to push it off. Likewise, I thought about just putting a little blob of
weld on the outside of the cap so I could butt up a drift to it to tap it off
easier.
     Has anyone got any tricks to getting these grease caps off
easier?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 00:57:19 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 00:53:25 -0600
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A set of needle nose vise grips has never failed to get them off for  
me. Lock em down and a little wiggling and Bob's your uncle.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Sep 2, 2013, at 10:13 PM, William Brewer wrote:

>     I had to remove a grease cap off of the front hub on my TR6. It  
> was
> seriously on there and banged up from whoever last tried to get it  
> off. I
> ended up hitting it with a cold chisel to finally get it off. What a  
> PITA.
>
> Is there a way to set up grease caps so you can get them off easier  
> for next
> time? I was thinking of drilling a hole through the center and mig  
> welding a
> nut on the outside so I could thread a bolt through and push against  
> the stub
> axle to push it off. Likewise, I thought about just putting a little  
> blob of
> weld on the outside of the cap so I could butt up a drift to it to  
> tap it off
> easier.
>     Has anyone got any tricks to getting these grease caps off
> easier?
>     TIA,
>
>     Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 03:32:38 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 02:24:37 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6oXTEhW92slqiNRl6CTrmJDPMrFAAGmvTw
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>  Is there a way to set up grease caps so you can get them off 
> easier for next
> time? I was thinking of drilling a hole through the center 
> and mig welding a
> nut on the outside so I could thread a bolt through and push 
> against the stub
> axle to push it off.

There should already be a 10-32 hole for that.  But I find that the threads
are usually not strong enough, so I epoxy a nut inside the cap.  (ISTR that
was originally a tip from Geo Hahn)

Or you could probably find a cap at FLAPS with the rolled edge so you can
pry it off.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 08:50:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 06:27:49 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 2:24 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> There should already be a 10-32 hole for that.  But I find that the threads
> are usually not strong enough, so I epoxy a nut inside the cap.
>


I keep a 10/32 eye bolt (about 2" long) in the mini tool kit (Lucas points
tool, SU wrench, etc) which threads in and pushes the cap out w/o any
wrench required.

http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/ImgMedium/320754.jpg

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 10:04:26 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 11:39:35 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe I bought poor caps, but the 10-32 screw route rarely worked for me.

Maybe I whack the cap in place too tightly with my rubber hammer....

Caps are pretty cheap,  I keep two in the spares kitty. I might weld a
small nub on opposing sides next time to aid in removal next time.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 08:40:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

snap on makes a tool specifically for this task.
I love tools
 
Frank
________________________________
 From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2013 9:13
PM
Subject: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
  

     I had to remove a grease cap
off of the front hub on my TR6. It was
seriously on there and banged up from
whoever last tried to get it off. I
ended up hitting it with a cold chisel to
finally get it off. What a PITA.
  
Is there a way to set up grease caps so
you can get them off easier for next
time? I was thinking of drilling a hole
through the center and mig welding a
nut on the outside so I could thread a
bolt through and push against the stub
axle to push it off. Likewise, I
thought about just putting a little blob of
weld on the outside of the cap so
I could butt up a drift to it to tap it off
easier.
     Has anyone got any
tricks to getting these grease caps off
easier?
     TIA,

     Bill in
Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 10:34:11 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 09:29:00 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6ov1sLcHph6byVTrirdtFrsRwRnAAAp9vg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> snap on makes a tool specifically for this task.

How does it grab the cap?  I've seen the tools designed for the
American-style caps, with the rolled edge for the tool to grab; but never
one to grab a smooth cap like the original TR caps.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:44:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

the tool looks like a pair of large pincer plyers.
the jaws are about 1" wide.
the jaws are ground with a radius to them of about the same as the grease cap
radius,
the jaws are also ground so they are almost a very sharp edge.
they
easily deal with the rolled edge. on the smooth caps the radius and sharp
grind allow them to grasp the cap very firmly. don't be overzealous with the
firmness of grasp.
 
I know snap on tools are very expensive. these came as a
birthday present form my son.
 
but they do double up as a hub cap remover.
they do this by bending the end of one of the handles.
 
I could not find the
snap on part but I found this on the Mac tool site
 
 http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Product/tabid/120/productid/318729/varian
tid/309488/Default.aspx
 
Frank

  

________________________________
 From:
Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Tuesday, September 3, 2013 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
> snap on makes a tool specifically for this task.

How does it grab the cap? 
I've seen the tools designed for the
American-style caps, with the rolled edge
for the tool to grab; but never
one to grab a smooth cap like the original TR
caps.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<13.80.15218.E4E06225@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<1378230288.12498.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 13:14:25 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=636013&group_ID=675671


On 9/3/13, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> the tool looks like a pair of large pincer plyers.
> the jaws are about 1" wide.
> the jaws are ground with a radius to them of about the same as the grease
> cap
> radius,
> the jaws are also ground so they are almost a very sharp edge.
> they
> easily deal with the rolled edge. on the smooth caps the radius and sharp
> grind allow them to grasp the cap very firmly. don't be overzealous with
> the
> firmness of grasp.
>
> I know snap on tools are very expensive. these came as a
> birthday present form my son.
>
> but they do double up as a hub cap remover.
> they do this by bending the end of one of the handles.
>
> I could not find the
> snap on part but I found this on the Mac tool site
>
> http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Product/tabid/120/productid/318729/varian
> tid/309488/Default.aspx
>
> Frank
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From:
> Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Tuesday, September 3, 2013 9:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
>> snap on makes a tool specifically for this task.
>
> How does it grab the cap?
> I've seen the tools designed for the
> American-style caps, with the rolled edge
> for the tool to grab; but never
> one to grab a smooth cap like the original TR
> caps.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
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>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 12:28:56 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 11:27:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, Triumphs
  <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

that's the little &*^^$% I got.
I love it.
it was a great present as I don't
think I would have bought it for myself.
 
thanks Don
________________________________
 From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 11:14
AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=636013&group_ID=675671


On
9/3/13, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> the tool looks like a pair
of large pincer plyers.
> the jaws are about 1" wide.
> the jaws are ground
with a radius to them of about the same as the grease
> cap
> radius,
> the
jaws are also ground so they are almost a very sharp edge.
> they
> easily
deal with the rolled edge. on the smooth caps the radius and sharp
> grind
allow them to grasp the cap very firmly. don't be overzealous with
> the
>
firmness of grasp.
>
> I know snap on tools are very expensive. these came as
a
> birthday present form my son.
>
> but they do double up as a hub cap
remover.
> they do this by bending the end of one of the handles.
>
> I could
not find the
> snap on part but I found this on the Mac tool site
>
>
http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Product/tabid/120/productid/318729/varian
>
tid/309488/Default.aspx
>
> Frank
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> 
From:
> Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
> To: 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Tuesday, September 3, 2013 9:29 AM
>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Grease Cap Removal
>> snap on makes a tool specifically
for this task.
>
> How does it grab the cap?
> I've seen the tools designed
for the
> American-style caps, with the rolled edge
> for the tool to grab;
but never
> one to grab a smooth cap like the original TR
> caps.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 17:23:54 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 19:29:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help on adjusting the hood (engine compartment) latch on my
 TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well,
Guess what.. I managed to close and lock my hood and can't open it now.
The good news (if there is any) is that I had installed a backup mechanical
linkage in case the cable release quit.
A little history first..
1. I had completely taken apart the spring assembly that bolts to the
underside of the hood so I am not sure how to adjust that and it is more than
likely not set correctly.
2. I have new rubber bumpers in the rear of the hood and had adjusted them so
the hood sits flat and level alongside the cowl.
Thoughts..
I am considering attaching a pair of vise grips to the vertical stainless
steel wire which is the "handle" for the mechanical release and tapping on the
vise grip (lightly) while someone pushes down on the hood over the latch.
If that doesn't work, I could remove the headlight buckets, remove the bolts
on the hinges and fish a long rod of some kind up to the latch and trip the
release that way.
Once I get the hood open again, does anyone have any suggestions on steps to
adjust the hood latch so I can open and close it without stressing out?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 17:38:56 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2013 16:27:30 -0700
References: <9BE61C8050054760936BA1DCB9F5B44A@DaveLaptop>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Help on adjusting the hood (engine compartment) latch on
 my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave,

One thing to try to get the hood lose is to jack the car in various places,
The flexing may be enough to get the latch to release.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 18:24:07 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <9BE61C8050054760936BA1DCB9F5B44A@DaveLaptop>
	<D5BF4124-3B1A-47A7-B188-56CECB19186A@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 19:57:24 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Help on adjusting the hood (engine compartment) latch on
 my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

this may or may not be relevant - one time my hood latch had gone down to 
the right of the catch mechanism.  I got a towel to protect the hood, and 
just kept pushing really hard against it until it slipped loose.  btw that 
was a tr6, but they are pretty similar 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 18:36:38 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 17:29:13 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Help on adjusting the hood (engine compartment) latch on
 my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave --

I helped a friend with a jammed latch on his TR5.  I used a 1x2 with a
thick rag secured over one end in for padding and, from under the car,
pushed up on the bonnet in the latch area while he jostled the releases.
He had the lever-type back-up release.  We finally got it to pop.

As I recall. after we got it open we carefully re-lowered the bonnet to
near the latch and we could peek in and see that the pin on the bonnet was
not well aligned with the opening in the latch and apparently this mismatch
was applying some lateral force that had jammed the works.  There is quite
a bit of movement possible in the mounting of the piece on the bonnet.

Geo



On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 4:29 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> Well,
> Guess what.. I managed to close and lock my hood and can't open it now.
> The good news (if there is any) is that I had installed a backup mechanical
> linkage in case the cable release quit.
> A little history first..
> 1. I had completely taken apart the spring assembly that bolts to the
> underside of the hood so I am not sure how to adjust that and it is more
> than
> likely not set correctly.
> 2. I have new rubber bumpers in the rear of the hood and had adjusted them
> so
> the hood sits flat and level alongside the cowl.
> Thoughts..
> I am considering attaching a pair of vise grips to the vertical stainless
> steel wire which is the "handle" for the mechanical release and tapping on
> the
> vise grip (lightly) while someone pushes down on the hood over the latch.
> If that doesn't work, I could remove the headlight buckets, remove the
> bolts
> on the hinges and fish a long rod of some kind up to the latch and trip the
> release that way.
> Once I get the hood open again, does anyone have any suggestions on steps
> to
> adjust the hood latch so I can open and close it without stressing out?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 18:56:21 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 20:53:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Update on stuck hood latch on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

SUCCESS!!!
I ended up putting a vise grip on the wire handle and tapped it with a small
hammer and it finally jarred loose!!
I still have to figure out how to adjust the thing. I found a pin assembly in
my parts bins and it is 3-1/8" across the length of the spring and mine was
about 2-7/8" long so I think maybe it is just too tight and just wouldn't
release.
If anyone has set up one of these things, I would really appriciate hearing
from you.
Thanks to all that replied!
Dave Connitt
1967 TR4A IRS

Check out my wood dash my neighbor re-veneered in walnut.
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a  go to progress and click on wood dash..

Almost ready to start!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 19:11:06 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2013 18:00:30 -0700
References: <A32C35FD0DFE4D2ABA510EE333584993@DaveLaptop>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Update on stuck hood latch on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you think the pin isn't right (or that the release isn't releasing enough),
you could take the pin off the bonnet and make sure it works in the release.

Beyond that, I made sure the cup on the end was centered on the opening, there
is a depression there.  Perfectly centered for me resulted in a bonnet that
would open on big bumps, so I slowly moved it toward the the release until it
stayed closed on bumps.

-Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 20:27:35 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 20:18:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Headlights, horns and exhaust manifold paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,

Ibm parallel processing some of the smaller tasks and would appreciate any
opinions about:

- headlight replacements.  Ibve got relay circuits prepped and ready for
higher power lights.  The column switch only operates the relays, which switch
power to the lights.  Sadly I donbt know much at all about what lighting
technology is available.  Ibm not looking for those blue bright headlights,
just something better than stock.

- horns.  Vendors offer both metal and plastic, with the latter about half the
cost.  Ibm not looking for the horn to play a song, or toot in some
concours-correct tone, as long as it doesnbt sound like someonebs stepping
on a sick cat, I donbt care.  Any been-there-done-that?

- exhaust manifold paint.  That rusty old lump looks just awful in the nice,
clean royal blue engine bay with shiny silver and stainless steel bits around
it.  Ibm considering Eastwoodbs hi-temp coating which offers to look like
stainless when finished :
http://www.eastwood.com/stainless-steel-gray-hi-temp-coating.html.  Any
happy/sad experience with this product, or other brands?

Thanks very much,

Cliff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 20:33:10 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2013 19:32:43 -0700
References: <83651378D8E5429987EAFDA609324D49@Shemp>
To: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlights, horns and exhaust manifold paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Cliff,

On Sep 3, 2013, at 7:18 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net> wrote:

> - headlight replacements.  Ibve got relay circuits prepped and ready for
> higher power lights.  The column switch only operates the relays, which
switch
> power to the lights.  Sadly I donbt know much at all about what lighting
> technology is available.  Ibm not looking for those blue bright
headlights,
> just something better than stock.

I came across this a while ago, it is probably how I would go if I decide
upgrade the lights on my cars:

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BoschH4.html

> - exhaust manifold paint.  That rusty old lump looks just awful in the
nice,
> clean royal blue engine bay with shiny silver and stainless steel bits
around
> it.  Ibm considering Eastwoodbs hi-temp coating which offers to look like
> stainless when finished :
> http://www.eastwood.com/stainless-steel-gray-hi-temp-coating.html.  Any
> happy/sad experience with this product, or other brands?

I've painted manifolds with various high-temp paints, and have had good
results.  On a used/rusty manifold, it is probably worthwhile to get it
blasted in some manner.  The last ones I did were for my TR8, I had them
blasted, then used Rustoeleum high temp primer and then paint.  They've held
up for two years and still look great.

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 21:18:12 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 20:17:48 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6pFxrXf5it5LjtRkaBZDgCwO53JwAAiosg
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlights, horns and exhaust manifold paint
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> I came across this a while ago, it is probably how I would go
> if I decide
> upgrade the lights on my cars:
>
> http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BoschH4.html

FWIW, I have (well, had) those Bosch conversions from Bus Depot.  The price
is outstanding, and there is nothing really wrong with the lamps.  But I
just don't like the light pattern quite as well as some of the others I have
had.  The hot spot is a bit too close to the car on low beam (with the high
beam aimed properly), and they kick a little too much light up on the right.
I plan to try something else, preferably with a European "E-code" rating.

I see where Amazon has Hella H4 lamps for $36/ea (plus $4 for a 55/60 bulb).
But I'm tempted to get the Valeo (formerly Cibii) lamps, even though they
are twice the price.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  3 22:01:27 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <83651378D8E5429987EAFDA609324D49@Shemp>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 23:01:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Headlights, horns and exhaust manifold paint
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for the exhaust - ceramic coating.  looks beautiful, lasts, well, I don't 
know.  several years and counting.  still looks brand new.

horns - I just bought a set from pep boys I think.  horns are supposed to be 
loud.  and they are.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  4 13:19:25 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 15:19:06 -0400
References: <mailman.6536.1378267262.2541.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Update on stuck hood latch on my TR4A
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As someone already wrote, first be sure that the pin and spring is  
centered over the latch. Then I would adjust the length of the pin on  
the long side (don't know what to tell you as I can't get to mine  
now). The pin has a screwdriver slot in the pointed end and is screwed  
into the bracket and secured with a lock nut. You'll have to pull the  
spring back or fish the wrench between the coils to loosen the nut.  
So, if the pin is adjusted to long the spring will hold it higher than  
the body. Then you can re-adjust to get the hood flush.

One other tip: one time I pulled the hood release and thought I had  
broken the cable or pulled it from the fitting. After I got it open,  
it turned out that the clip on the outer cable which holds the cable  
to the hood latch had slipped off the latch and when that happens, it  
doesn't work.

Allen
TR4 since 1967

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  4 18:40:04 2013
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From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 19:33:41 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Exhaust manifold paint
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Cliff, I've used Bill Hirsch's high temp exhaust manifold paint. I've  had it
on several different cars for many years.  Still looks new, no chipping or
flaking.  He advertises in Hemings, but probably can also find him on the
Internet.  Great on the whole exhaust system and intake manifold as well.

frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Let me chime in on that ad.  I've used most of the Hirsch range over the years, and his stuff rocks.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Frank Magnusson" <fmags@cox.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Exhaust manifold paint
Date: Wed, Sep 4, 2013 7:33 pm


Cliff, I've used Bill Hirsch's high temp exhaust manifold paint. I've  had it
on several different cars for many years.  Still looks new, no chipping or
flaking.  He advertises in Hemings, but probably can also find him on the
Internet.  Great on the whole exhaust system and intake manifold as well.

frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  4 21:00:16 2013
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Subject: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
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Since it looks like the tonneau I have is as good as I will get without having
a custom one made I set about to install the lift the dot snaps.  I was able
to stretch it enough to make the fore/aft distance but it is all I can do to
stretch it that far.  I've yet to install the snaps along the sides so it is
yet to be seen it I can make that work.

I predict that in two years time it will not fit at all.

Not happy.



Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 01:23:38 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 21:30:48 -0700
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> I predict that in two years time it will not fit at all.
> 
> Not happy.

Welcome to the club!  Might I suggest that you contact your vendor, and
express your displeasure?  Maybe if enough of us do that, they might update
their patterns.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 01:24:06 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 21:49:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6p2hDKzI3C7l+TR7COkxYRHmBadAAGSM2A
Subject: Re: [TR] A little travelin' music, Sam
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> you'll
> just have to thumb your twiddles until I get back. 

But in private, please !!!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:39:37 -0400 (EDT)
To: TR3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
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Good idea.  And the vendor monitors this list.  The vendor will have an 
opportunity to see the tonneau at Triumphest as well.

Dave

In a message dated 9/5/2013 2:23:09 AM Central Daylight Time, 
TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes: 
> >I predict that in two years time it will not fit at all.
> >
> >Not happy.
> 
> Welcome to the club!  Might I suggest that you contact your vendor, and
> express your displeasure?  Maybe if enough of us do that, they might 
> update
> their patterns.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Dave Massey'" <dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <8D077FB247DF353-1F78-8505@webmail-m168.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 09:26:22 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6p5B+2xBB7XDpvQIOkDJm/tExrgwAXjj7g
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneau revisited
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

98 degrees and sunny all week here in west Texas, perfect weather for
fitting a tonneau.  Just got my hood/top on and adjusted for the first time
since getting it last fall.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 10:00 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited

Since it looks like the tonneau I have is as good as I will get without
having a custom one made I set about to install the lift the dot snaps.  I
was able to stretch it enough to make the fore/aft distance but it is all I
can do to stretch it that far.  I've yet to install the snaps along the
sides so it is yet to be seen it I can make that work.

I predict that in two years time it will not fit at all.

Not happy.



Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 08:53:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2013 07:53:04 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <8D077FB247DF353-1F78-8505@webmail-m168.sysops.aol.com>
	<E75920607E924FE8A3294CA0BBE056CD@bboffice>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneau revisited
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On 9/5/13 7:26 AM, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> 98 degrees and sunny all week here in west Texas, perfect weather for
> fitting a tonneau.  Just got my hood/top on and adjusted for the first time
> since getting it last fall.
>
>
The best temperature for setting snap locations is the temperature that 
you are most likely to erect it. If you are likely to put up the top to 
protect from cold that is the best temperature to set the snaps.  I've 
seen several cars that had top snaps set on a hot summer day and on cool 
days were set up with some snaps left unsnapped because they will not 
reach on cold days.

Same with the tonneau.  Set the snaps at the average temperature that 
you are likely to mount the tonneau on your car.

Our venders used to supply parts that fit.  I purchased my tonneau and 
soft top in the 1980's and they fit just fine.  It is time to remind 
them that parts should fit our vehicles.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 11:43:53 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 13:41:23 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneau revisited
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I couldn't agree more.  All this "you got to set it in the hot sun before 
you put it on" stuff just don't fly with me.  

The top on my TR6 was 20 years old (still new, in the box) when I had it 
fitted and it still fits great after the nearly 20 years I've had it.  I 
believe that is because by the time the installer put it on it had already lost 
all of the plasticizer and there was no "stretching to fit."

Dave

In a message dated 9/5/2013 9:53:13 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tjwakeman@gmail.com writes: 
> The best temperature for setting snap locations is the temperature that 
> you are most likely to erect it. If you are likely to put up the top to 
> protect from cold that is the best temperature to set the snaps.  I've 
> seen several cars that had top snaps set on a hot summer day and on cool 
> days were set up with some snaps left unsnapped because they will not 
> reach on cold days.
> 
> Same with the tonneau.  Set the snaps at the average temperature that 
> you are likely to mount the tonneau on your car.
> 
> Our venders used to supply parts that fit.  I purchased my tonneau and 
> soft top in the 1980's and they fit just fine.  It is time to remind 
> them that parts should fit our vehicles.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 10:48:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

i bought a NOS AMCO from the internet.
its probably 30+ years old.
it didn't
fit back in the day apparently
 
Frank
 

________________________________
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Wednesday, September 4, 2013 7:59 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
Since it looks like the tonneau I have is as good as I will get without having
a custom one made I set about to install the lift the dot snaps.  I was able
to stretch it enough to make the fore/aft distance but it is all I can do to
stretch it that far.  I've yet to install the snaps along the sides so it is
yet to be seen it I can make that work.

I predict that in two years time it
will not fit at all.

Not happy.



Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 11:59:34 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 13:56:23 -0400 (EDT)
To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not enough time now but ultimately I will have a custom cover made by a 
friend of a friend who is in the business of making such covers for boats 
(usually all custom stuff).

Dave

In a message dated 9/5/2013 12:51:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> i bought a NOS AMCO from the internet.
> its probably 30+ years old.
> it didn't fit back in the day apparently

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 13:48:24 2013
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References: <bf3c4.3392f7c5.3f5a1fc7@cs.com>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 15:47:32 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a Robbins tonneau from topsonline (nfi) for my tr2.   I did not
expect it to fit as my tr2 is old enough that the snaps are on the body
near the dash vs on the dash coping.

I heated it up and put it on over several heating sessions - usually only 2
to 4 snaps at a time until all the snaps were on.  I was generally worried
the entire time about breaking one of the studs or snaps as they are scarce
these days.

I leave the tonneau on the car most of the time - but did not take the time
to button it up last time I pulled it in the garage (3 to 4 weeks ago) - I
snapped it up last night with no problems - but it is still pretty warm
here in North Carolina.

Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 15:19:30 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 14:17:57 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6qfWRWySE/FlQWQDa+d4Axmwavyw==
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	FILETIME=[695587D0:01CEAA7D]
Subject: [TR] TR6 Cylinder Head
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It would appear that I have some bad seals/guides on my recently acquired
and running tr6 project.

Looks like I'm going to have to pull the head and have some work done.  Are
there any relatively low cost performance enhancements I should look into
while I have it off?  

3 angle valve grind?  Oversize valves?  Slight decking of the head to raise
CR?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 16:41:47 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 18:40:58 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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That sounds like how I'm going about it but I am using the sun to warm it 
and when I start late in the afternoon I run out of sunlight (I got trees).  
I still have two weekends free to finish it up.  That and get the trailer 
ready.

Dave

In a message dated 9/5/2013 2:48:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ccsimonsen@gmail.com writes: 
> I heated it up and put it on over several heating sessions - usually only 
> 2
> to 4 snaps at a time until all the snaps were on.  I was generally worried
> the entire time about breaking one of the studs or snaps as they are 
> scarce
> these days.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 16:49:27 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 18:44:24 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
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Anyone who makes custom boat covers should be able to do these in his 
sleep.

Cheers

Dave



In a message dated 9/5/2013 4:56:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> My old AMCO fit very well, it was just real nasty, Jeff Zorn sent it off 
> and had it duplicated for me. 

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 21:00:10 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6qnj1HCh4/Edv7RUWSI4SlxP8R+QABmFhw
Subject: [TR] New No-Name Dipper Switch may burn your wiring harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Received this from the MG list, pertains to all LBCs.  
Bill

-------- Original Message --------
Date: 	Thu, 05 Sep 2013 19:12:50 -0500
From: 	Barney Gaylord
To: 	mgs@autox.team.net, britishcars@autox.team.net

Heads up to a faulty new part with possible serious
consequences.   Some new no-name dipper switches have an internal
fault that will short power to ground when depressed.  If held in the
depressed position it could burn up your main wiring harness. The part is
widely used on many brands of British cars, especially in the 1950 to 1965
production period.

The switch is patterned after Lucas type FS22. but it is not a Lucas part.
It is a replacement part for BMC part number 1G2007.  Known bad parts came
from Moss Motors (171-900) and Scarborough Faire.  They have been notified.
Moss has placed a stop on sales of the part pending investigation.

If you have one of these no-name dipper switches, use a continuity tester or
ohm meter to check resistance from the center input terminal to the housing
when the switch is depressed.  Check it through at least two switching
cycles, because it only shorts on every second cycle of the switch.  If you
have one of the switches that has this ground fault, please let me know, and
also the name of the supplier if possible.

For pictures and more information see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft063.htm

Best cautious regards,

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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______________________________________________

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  5 21:02:42 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 3:01:59 +0000
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You would get the most bang for the buck from shaving the head 9.5/1 is usually considered a safe CR for a street car. A machine shop guy told me a three angle grind was better for performance, but I always thought it was more for longevity, will defer to other's opinions on that.

Have definitely read that oversize valves are of no benefit unless you are going racing or very major street mods.

I would also smooth out the sharp edges in the combustion chamber and match intake and exhaust ports and manifolds.  The Kastner competition prep manual goes into detail on this and can be had on eBay and the various sources for $10 bucks or so.

Greg

---- Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> It would appear that I have some bad seals/guides on my recently acquired
> and running tr6 project.
> 
> Looks like I'm going to have to pull the head and have some work done.  Are
> there any relatively low cost performance enhancements I should look into
> while I have it off?  
> 
> 3 angle valve grind?  Oversize valves?  Slight decking of the head to raise
> CR?
> 
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 3:02:47 +0000
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You would get the most bang for the buck from shaving the head 9.5/1 is usually considered a safe CR for a street car. A machine shop guy told me a three angle grind was better for performance, but I always thought it was more for longevity, will defer to other's opinions on that.

Have definitely read that oversize valves are of no benefit unless you are going racing or very major street mods.

I would also smooth out the sharp edges in the combustion chamber and match intake and exhaust ports and manifolds.  The Kastner competition prep manual goes into detail on this and can be had on eBay and the various sources for $10 bucks or so.

Greg

---- Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> It would appear that I have some bad seals/guides on my recently acquired
> and running tr6 project.
> 
> Looks like I'm going to have to pull the head and have some work done.  Are
> there any relatively low cost performance enhancements I should look into
> while I have it off?  
> 
> 3 angle valve grind?  Oversize valves?  Slight decking of the head to raise
> CR?
> 
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <40d9b.790ba3ba.3f5a6348@cs.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 00:19:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Although my tonneau is for a TR250, the material is used, I fit mine a 
little over two year ago, did it in the warm sun, had to stretch it a little 
and the lift the dots on the front are about as far forward as they can be. 
Although two years is not a lot of time mine seems to have gotten a little 
looser over time, is not bad at all to put on now, used to need a little 
muscle and sun to make it work, less beef and heat is required these days. 
I have been known to push down on the middle when it is all buttoned up and 
sitting out in the sun on a hot day, I think I have stretched it out a bit 
by doing that.

Of course if I were a pessimist I would buy into the old adage, you have two 
choices, "fit it a bit loose, ensuring it will stretch, or fit it a bit 
tight, ensuring it will shrink".

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: <Dave1massey@cs.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 5:44 PM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tonneaau revisited

> Anyone who makes custom boat covers should be able to do these in his
> sleep.
>
> Cheers
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/5/2013 4:56:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
> wbeech@flash.net writes:
>> My old AMCO fit very well, it was just real nasty, Jeff Zorn sent it off
>> and had it duplicated for me.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 05:33:58 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 07:33:28 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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I think there was a Mr. Murphy who commented on this.  ;-)

In a message dated 9/6/2013 12:19:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
glemon@neb.rr.com writes: 
> Of course if I were a pessimist I would buy into the old adage, you have 
> two 
> choices, "fit it a bit loose, ensuring it will stretch, or fit it a bit 
> tight, ensuring it will shrink".

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 12:37:42 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "glemon@neb.rr.com" <glemon@neb.rr.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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An interesting fact emerged many years ago from factory test papers on the
'breathing' properties of the six cylinder head. On the non-US TR's, as well
as the 2000 and 2500 saloons (with or without fuel injection) further
development took place on the gas-flowing and valve diameters. The outcome -
found on cylinder heads stamped 219015* and 219016* - was that reducing the
exhaust valve diameter from 32mm to 30mm gave greatly improved breathing. The
revised inlet tracts also created better air/fuel mix and vastly improved
'quench' to the extent that many on this side of the pond have been using this
head in preference to earlier versions. I've got a sneaky feeling that while
the two heads weren't fitted to TR's they did appear on US GT6. I've got all
the data I could scrounge on a spreadsheet if anyone's interested.


Jonmac
NB * You'll find these numbers stamped (NOT cast) on a flat plinth under the
valve gear between cylinders 2 and 3.

From: "glemon@neb.rr.com"
<glemon@neb.rr.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net; Jonas Payne
<jagmog@hotmail.com> 
>Sent: Friday, 6 September 2013, 4:01
>Subject: Re: [TR]
TR6 Cylinder Head
>
>
>You would get the most bang for the buck from shaving
the head 9.5/1 is usually considered a safe CR for a street car. A machine
shop guy told me a three angle grind was better for performance, but I always
thought it was more for longevity, will defer to other's opinions on that.
>
>Have definitely read that oversize valves are of no benefit unless you are
going racing or very major street mods.
>
>I would also smooth out the sharp
edges in the combustion chamber and match intake and exhaust ports and
manifolds.  The Kastner competition prep manual goes into detail on this and
can be had on eBay and the various sources for $10 bucks or so.
>
>Greg
>
>---- Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com> wrote: 
>> It would appear that I have
some bad seals/guides on my recently acquired
>> and running tr6 project.
>>
>> Looks like I'm going to have to pull the head and have some work done.  Are
>> there any relatively low cost performance enhancements I should look into
>> while I have it off?  
>> 
>> 3 angle valve grind?  Oversize valves? 
Slight decking of the head to raise
>> CR?
>> 
>> Jonas Payne
>> PBR
Consulting
>> 702-882-6711
>> 
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate:
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com
>
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 3 Sep  2013 19:29:12 -0400
From: "Dave Connitt"  <dconnitt@fuse.net>

Well,
Guess what.. I managed to close and  lock my hood and can't open it now.
The good news (if there is any) is that I  had installed a backup mechanical
linkage in case the cable release  quit.
A little history first..
1. I had completely taken apart the spring  assembly that bolts to the
underside of the hood so I am not sure how to  adjust that and it is more 
than
likely not set correctly.
2. I have new  rubber bumpers in the rear of the hood and had adjusted them 
so
the hood sits  flat and level alongside the cowl.
Thoughts..
I am considering attaching a  pair of vise grips to the vertical stainless
steel wire which is the "handle"  for the mechanical release and tapping on 
the
vise grip (lightly) while  someone pushes down on the hood over the latch.
If that doesn't work, I could  remove the headlight buckets, remove the 
bolts
on the hinges and fish a long  rod of some kind up to the latch and trip the
release that way.
Once I get  the hood open again, does anyone have any suggestions on steps 
to
adjust the  hood latch so I can open and close it without stressing out?
Thanks,
Dave  Connitt



Dave, once you get the bonnet open, here is how I set  it.
Remove the latch from the bonnet.
Algin the bonnet.
Insert he latch into the catch.
Place some double stick tape on the flat on top of the latch.
Lower the bonnet and then release the catch..
Open the bonnet and the latch should be adhered to the bonnet.
Mark the location, remove the latch, remove the tape and install the  latch.
All you have left will be to adjust the depth of the latch.
 


Rodney  Ford,
Positive Earth Drivers Club
Brick, NJ

Triumph TR4A  IRS
Triumph TR 7 Spider

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 14:31:07 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Alan Myers <amfoto1@aol.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 in a Denver area estate sale
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Heads up! There's a fairly decent but unrestored looking 1960 TR3 in an estate
auction this weekend, in the Denver area (Arvada). Supposedly it's in running
condition.

Here's a link to info about the estate sale:
http://www.estatesales.net/estate-sales/497064.aspx

There are a few photos of the TR3 at that link, too (scroll down).

Disclaimer: I have no knowledge of or financial interest in this sale. Heck,
if I were able to follow up on it myself, I sure wouldn't be posting info
about it here!

Cheers!


Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1@aol.com
1962 TR4 CT17602L:
www.triumphowners.com/640
Triumphest 2009 Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  7 07:51:43 2013
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To: amfoto1@aol.com
From: dave@ranteer.com
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 06:48:49 -0700
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 in a Denver area estate sale
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I inquired.  Its no longer for sale

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [TR] TR3 in a Denver area estate sale
From: Alan Myers <amfoto1@aol.com>
Date: Sep 6, 2013 3:31 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
CC:

Heads up! There's a fairly decent but unrestored looking 1960 TR3 in an
estate
auction this weekend, in the Denver area (Arvada). Supposedly it's in running
condition.

Here's a link to info about the estate sale:
http://www.estatesales.net/estate-sales/497064.aspx

There are a few photos of the TR3 at that link, too (scroll down).

Disclaimer: I have no knowledge of or financial interest in this sale. Heck,
if I were able to follow up on it myself, I sure wouldn't be posting info
about it here!

Cheers!


Alan

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 08:03:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Fender Hardware Kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I have a TRF TR6 fender fitting hardware kit. In the kit they had fiber
washers. When I took the old fender off (and I am pretty sure that it had
never been off before...) there were no fiber washers in the installation. I
looked in the Moss catalog to see if it showed a fiber washer, but they
didn't. Do the fiber washers go between the inner and outer fenders or under
the steel washers under the fender fitting nuts? Are they necessary or
advisable? I am tempted to not use them.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi,
CA 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <mailman.17.1378663204.21428.triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 11:12:11 -0700
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 323
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have done a few never saw fiber washers. JT

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 8, 2013, at 11:00 AM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. TR6 Fender Hardware Kit (William Brewer)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 08:03:14 -0700 (PDT)
> From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Fender Hardware Kit
> Message-ID:
>    <1378652594.1181.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>     I have a TRF TR6 fender fitting hardware kit. In the kit they had fiber
> washers. When I took the old fender off (and I am pretty sure that it had
> never been off before...) there were no fiber washers in the installation.
I
> looked in the Moss catalog to see if it showed a fiber washer, but they
> didn't. Do the fiber washers go between the inner and outer fenders or
under
> the steel washers under the fender fitting nuts? Are they necessary or
> advisable? I am tempted to not use them.
>
>     Bill Brewer
>     Tehachapi,
> CA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 323
> ****************************************

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 12:33:01 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6spNnbmZ8Jx/nsRmOBw4an5+iqbAAJQPFg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Fender Hardware Kit
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>      I have a TRF TR6 fender fitting hardware kit. In the kit 
> they had fiber
> washers. When I took the old fender off (and I am pretty sure 
> that it had
> never been off before...) there were no fiber washers in the 
> installation.

Perhaps it's the same deal as the flat washers in the rear drip rail for a
TR3.  The SPC lists them, but the factory apparently did not install them.
Somewhere, I've read an explanation from Charles to the effect that they
include them in the kit because they are listed in the SPC.

My TR6 SPC does list "washer, everseal", which I assume are the fiber
washers.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 19:10:41 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Fender Hardware Kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Use them, They go under the steel washer.

Al


On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 11:03 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>      I have a TRF TR6 fender fitting hardware kit. In the kit they had
> fiber
> washers. When I took the old fender off (and I am pretty sure that it had
> never been off before...) there were no fiber washers in the installation.
> I
> looked in the Moss catalog to see if it showed a fiber washer, but they
> didn't. Do the fiber washers go between the inner and outer fenders or
> under
> the steel washers under the fender fitting nuts? Are they necessary or
> advisable? I am tempted to not use them.
>
>      Bill Brewer
>      Tehachapi,
> CA
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  8 19:08:20 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2013 21:07:19 -0400
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Subject: [TR] transmission o/d & reverse switches.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

does anyone know the size/type of thread on the tranny switches.   I think
they are 5/8-18 (fine thread) but not sure.

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  8 20:03:10 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 19:02:44 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] transmission o/d & reverse switches.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> does anyone know the size/type of thread on the tranny 
> switches.   I think
> they are 5/8-18 (fine thread) but not sure.

I was curious myself, so I just checked one.  M16x2.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2013 23:18:53 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: ''Triumphs'' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] transmission o/d & reverse switches.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall is correct. They are Metric, M16 x 2.0

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> does anyone know the size/type of thread on the tranny switches.   I think
> they are 5/8-18 (fine thread) but not sure.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  9 08:02:16 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 10:01:39 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Lou Metelko
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Sorry to bomb the list but I have lost Lou's contact information.

 

Lou - can you contact me off-list ? Thanks!



Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 10 14:50:42 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 14:38:27 -0400
From: aribert neumann <aribertn@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 69 Spit - Detroit salvage yard
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a heads up to any Spitfire owners in the MetroDetroit (or Windsor)
area - Parts Galore on West Warren in Detroit has a 69 Spit.  Engine has
the head off and heavy rust in the bores, trans is non-OD (and I took the
shift forks out of it for my Spit bodied GT6).  Bonnet is bent near the RH
latch.  The exterior trim is long gone.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 10 16:13:04 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 18:12:25 -0400
Thread-index: Ac6ucjCRCwsiuLVISAi2KOj0ssgqvw==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 - need a measurement
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone please measure the distance from the top of the steering wheel
to the windshield (measuring at vertical - not the slant of the wheel).   It
seems to be much closer than I remember.  Also, a second measurement from
where that point is on the windshield to the frame (glass distance only).

The mounting holes are what they are but I wonder if the stanchions are not
true.  

 

Thanks.   

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 10 16:25:11 2013
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From: <tfansher@comcast.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <011601ceae72$d51ceaf0$7f56c0d0$@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 18:25:18 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - need a measurement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl, I just drove into the garage and got your email.  On both my 3's the 
distance from the top of the steering wheel to the windshield is 3 
horizontal inches.
Then it's roughly 7.5 to 8 inches from that point to the top edge of the 
glass ( a little hard to see and I wanted a beer)
Hope this helps.
Tom

-----Original Message----- 
From: CFM-TR
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 6:12 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] TR3 - need a measurement

Could someone please measure the distance from the top of the steering wheel
to the windshield (measuring at vertical - not the slant of the wheel).   It
seems to be much closer than I remember.  Also, a second measurement from
where that point is on the windshield to the frame (glass distance only).

The mounting holes are what they are but I wonder if the stanchions are not
true.



Thanks.



Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 10 17:09:07 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - need a measurement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Tom.  that is what I needed.   guess I don't remember correctly... it
has only been 12 years.


-----Original Message-----
From: tfansher@comcast.net [mailto:tfansher@comcast.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 6:25 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; ''Triumphs''
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - need a measurement

Carl, I just drove into the garage and got your email.  On both my 3's the
distance from the top of the steering wheel to the windshield is 3
horizontal inches.
Then it's roughly 7.5 to 8 inches from that point to the top edge of the
glass ( a little hard to see and I wanted a beer) Hope this helps.
Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: CFM-TR
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 6:12 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] TR3 - need a measurement

Could someone please measure the distance from the top of the steering wheel
to the windshield (measuring at vertical - not the slant of the wheel).   It
seems to be much closer than I remember.  Also, a second measurement from
where that point is on the windshield to the frame (glass distance only).

The mounting holes are what they are but I wonder if the stanchions are not
true.



Thanks.



Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 10 23:30:26 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 22:30:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I had to remove the brake and clutch master cylinders and brake
proportioner switch on my 1974 TR6. I've rebuilt a variety of brakes before
and never had a problem bleeding the systems. This time around, I had my son
pump the pedal about 5 times and hold and then I crack open the bleeder and
vent out fluid. It worked okay on the clutch slave, but on the brakes I can't
get anything to come out. I just wanted to verify that you start at the
bleeder farthest from the master cylinder first.
     I was told that you
could hook a Mityvak up to the bleeder and vacuum pump the air out. It doesn't
seem to work. How does one use a Mityvac to bleed brakes? Maybe you have to
hold the pedal down while you are vacuum evacuating the brake line. Does
anyone have any hints?
     I am going to look for a one man bleeder tomorrow.
     Gotta get this car back on the road while we still have good weather.
   
 TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 01:20:13 2013
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	Sep 2013 07:19:58 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 00:20:03 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6usBDSYS6dgQI2TsW22FmacdkiugADYbEg
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I just wanted to verify that you 
> start at the
> bleeder farthest from the master cylinder first.

Shouldn't matter, you should be able to get fluid no matter where you bleed first.  The book does say to do the farthest cylinder
first, but I think it's just to reduce the amount of bleeding required.

Sounds like you need to bench-bleed the MC.  You might be able to get it going by bleeding at the outlet fittings while on the car.

>      I was told that you
> could hook a Mityvak up to the bleeder and vacuum pump the 
> air out. It doesn't
> seem to work. How does one use a Mityvac to bleed brakes? 

That's the theory, didn't work for me either.  I think it was pulling air past the bleed screw threads, instead of fluid from the
MC.  BTW there is a reservoir that you are supposed to use between the MityVac and the brakes; the pump doesn't like brake fluif.

>      I am going to look for a one man bleeder tomorrow.

The Dorman "speed bleeder" bleed valves worked a treat for me.  But they won't help if you can't get the MC to pump.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 01:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,
 
I replaced my MC and couldn't get the system bled properly until I
discovered one of my rear flexibles had collapsed internally.
 
Another car
had the same problem 2 weeks later.
 
On mine I am sure they were originals
therefore 36 years old at the time.
 
2 hoses fixed it.
 
________________________________
 From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To:
'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 11 September 2013, 8:20
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics
on a TR6
  

> I just wanted to verify that you 
> start at the
> bleeder
farthest from the master cylinder first.

Shouldn't matter, you should be able
to get fluid no matter where you bleed first.  The book does say to do the
farthest cylinder
first, but I think it's just to reduce the amount of
bleeding required.

Sounds like you need to bench-bleed the MC.  You might be
able to get it going by bleeding at the outlet fittings while on the car.

> 
    I was told that you
> could hook a Mityvak up to the bleeder and vacuum
pump the 
> air out. It doesn't
> seem to work. How does one use a Mityvac to
bleed brakes? 

That's the theory, didn't work for me either.  I think it was
pulling air past the bleed screw threads, instead of fluid from the
MC.  BTW
there is a reservoir that you are supposed to use between the MityVac and the
brakes; the pump doesn't like brake fluif.

>      I am going to look for a
one man bleeder tomorrow.

The Dorman "speed bleeder" bleed valves worked a
treat for me.  But they won't help if you can't get the MC to pump.

Randall
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 05:34:23 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 07:29:41 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a similar problem recently. I disconnected a hydraulic hose close to
the master cylinder and intended to pump a few times to essentially bench
bleed the master.

By the time we got around to pumping, gravity had done it's job and brake
fluif was flowing all over my new paint....   Quick wipe and no damage.
Whew!

After that,  the fluif fill went normally and got a good firm pedal after
two times around,

Good luck

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 06:04:31 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 08:00:41 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a similar problem when I replaced my master cylinder earlier this 
year (first service I have had to do to the brakes since 1996).  The master 
cylinder doesn't work so good with air.  In addition to the mightyvac there is 
a device (I forget the name) that applies a modest amount of air pressure to 
the reservoir to push fluid through the system.  I didn't have one of those 
but I do have an air gun so I carefully applied a short blast of air to the 
vent hole in the reservoir cap - taking care to not hold it too tightly to 
the cap so that the pressure would be self-limiting - which forced enough 
fluid into the master cylinder to get things working again.

Bleeding after that was pretty much textbook.

If you have a pressure regulator set it to 5 PSI.  Or 3 PSI.

Dave

In a message dated 9/11/2013 12:30:18 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a@att.net writes: 
>      I was told that you
> could hook a Mityvak up to the bleeder and vacuum pump the air out. It 
> doesn't
> seem to work. How does one use a Mityvac to bleed brakes? Maybe you have 
> to
> hold the pedal down while you are vacuum evacuating the brake line. Does
> anyone have any hints?
>      I am going to look for a one man bleeder tomorrow.
>      Gotta get this car back on the road while we still have good weather.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 05:27:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Randall,
     I think that the master cylinder is good. I drove the car
about two weeks ago, before I had to remove the MC's. The brakes worked fine.
     I was thinking of fabricating a positive pressure bleeder where I could
pressurize the master cylinder using a bug sprayer so I could do one man
bleeding. I wonder if this will work and if someone on the list has tried
this.

     -Bill Brewer


________________________________
 From: Randall
<TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 12:20 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
 



> I just wanted to verify
that you 
> start at the
> bleeder farthest from the master cylinder first.
Shouldn't matter, you should be able to get fluid no matter where you bleed
first.  The book does say to do the farthest cylinder
first, but I think it's
just to reduce the amount of bleeding required.

Sounds like you need to
bench-bleed the MC.  You might be able to get it going by bleeding at the
outlet fittings while on the car.

>      I was told that you
> could hook a
Mityvak up to the bleeder and vacuum pump the 
> air out. It doesn't
> seem to
work. How does one use a Mityvac to bleed brakes? 

That's the theory, didn't
work for me either.  I think it was pulling air past the bleed screw threads,
instead of fluid from the
MC.  BTW there is a reservoir that you are supposed
to use between the MityVac and the brakes; the pump doesn't like brake fluif.
>      I am going to look for a one man bleeder tomorrow.

The Dorman "speed
bleeder" bleed valves worked a treat for me.  But they won't help if you can't
get the MC to pump.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 06:29:55 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:27 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

> ... I was thinking of fabricating a positive pressure bleeder where I could
> pressurize the master cylinder using a bug sprayer so I could do one man
> bleeding. I wonder if this will work and if someone on the list has tried
> this.



Bill --

I have done this on the TR3A and a Jaguar.  In the case of the latter it
was the only way I could get fluid moving enough for a bleed.

http://tinyurl.com/ancxr8n

Just a cap of suitable size plus a connector and length of 1/4" tubing from
my irrigation parts.

I used an air tank and, of course, kept pressure low (about 12-15#).

If you do not have a spare cap -- take a look in the pantry.  Lots of food
items (e.g. spices) have containers with lids that will approximately
work.  You can add a seal from a tire tube or whatever -- the seal doesn't
have to be perfect.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 08:28:49 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 10:28:24 -0400
From: Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics
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Re: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics
These bleeders worked for me.
I cannot confirm my purchase source, I installed them a few years ago.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR6-Brake-Speed-Bleeders-1969-1971-/39064982
0495?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af48b354f&vxp=mtr
Regards,
Bob 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 09:54:41 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: =?WINDOWS-1252?Q?=93triumphs_list=93?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 11:50:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
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Moss and British Parts Northwest have a lightened and oil drilled  
tappet with similar part descriptions but BPNW is less than half the  
price of Moss. (half $ x 8 is hard to ignore). But it is for a street  
engine and I could save more money and buy the stock ones. Any opinions?

Allen

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 13:10:00 2013
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From: ED Morat <emorat1@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 12:51:40 -0400
	FILETIME=[301D4D40:01CEAF0F]
Subject: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action
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All,



I'm proud to announce that after 12 years in my garage Ihave my TR-6 back on
the road.  It was fully restored, hydraulics, all new parts front and back,
gas (Tank and Stainless lined fuel lines).  Electronic ignition, electric fan,
carbs rebuilt by Paltech Techonoligies and much more.  I have had the pleasure
of driving it and what a thrill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 14:43:25 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 14:43:03 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT149-W54917F08DDA51D169D092DFE390@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action
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ED Morat wrote:
> All,
>
>
>
> I'm proud to announce that after 12 years in my garage Ihave my TR-6 back on
> the road.  It was fully restored, hydraulics, all new parts front and back,
> gas (Tank and Stainless lined fuel lines).  Electronic ignition, electric fan,
> carbs rebuilt by Paltech Techonoligies and much more.  I have had the pleasure
> of driving it and what a thrill
>

Sweet!!

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 15:43:33 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT149-W54917F08DDA51D169D092DFE390@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 16:41:18 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action
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you made a lot of good decisions!  congrats!  you still have lots of time to 
enjoy top down driving!

-----Original Message----- 
From: ED Morat
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 11:51 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action

All,



I'm proud to announce that after 12 years in my garage Ihave my TR-6 back on
the road.  It was fully restored, hydraulics, all new parts front and back,
gas (Tank and Stainless lined fuel lines).  Electronic ignition, electric 
fan,
carbs rebuilt by Paltech Techonoligies and much more.  I have had the 
pleasure
of driving it and what a thrill 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 16:59:39 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 18:58:39 -0400
Thread-index: Ac6vQgKfFlqrImZ4Qpmn3M6t/sGFdg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3/3a hood ornament
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone on the list have a hood / apron ornament for either a
small-mouth (has "Triumph" at the bottom) or an early TR3a?  Both are red.

 

I have a beautiful (perfect 10/10) blue ornament, but am restoring a 57
small mouth and a 59 3A, both of which require a red ornament. I'd be happy
to do a trade of one for the other.

 

If anyone can help, please contact me off-list.  Really appreciate it and
sorry to bomb the list.

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 17:04:26 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 16:04:11 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/3a hood ornament
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On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net>wrote:

> ... I have a beautiful (perfect 10/10) blue ornament, but am restoring a 57
> small mouth and a 59 3A, both of which require a red ornament.



Just to be sure -- this must be an early (Jan - Mar) 1959 TR3A as the
change point (in the source I just looked at) was TS41874?

Geo

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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 11:16:47 +1200
Thread-Index: Ac6vRP0AVMgdOIToTzGnnWupAt/koA==
Subject: [TR] Diff Pinion Seal
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My mechanic has removed the drive flange and has said that the drive flange
has a mark that needs to be removed by linishing prior to speedy sleeving
and installing a new seal.
He then said that if its linished to remove the mark then it wont need a
speedi sleeve.
However what he is not sure about is whether the diff has to be taken apart
to be reshimmed now that the drive flange has been removed.
Does anyone know whether he can just put the flange back and do up the nut
or he we opened up a can of worms?
Any help appreciated.
 
Jim and the 1962 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <SNT149-W54917F08DDA51D169D092DFE390@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 19:25:24 -0400
From: Bryan Loy <paradisemusicnc@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's wonderful.  Mine's finally back on the road after a 3 year hiatus.
 Feels good!!!!


On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 12:51 PM, ED Morat <emorat1@hotmail.com> wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> I'm proud to announce that after 12 years in my garage Ihave my TR-6 back
> on
> the road.  It was fully restored, hydraulics, all new parts front and back,
> gas (Tank and Stainless lined fuel lines).  Electronic ignition, electric
> fan,
> carbs rebuilt by Paltech Techonoligies and much more.  I have had the
> pleasure
> of driving it and what a thrill
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/paradisemusicnc@gmail.com

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 17:13:51 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jim Vassiliadis <jimstr4@gmail.com>, Triumphs
  <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Diff Pinion Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I have done mine I marked the nut & flange (paint) and also counted
the turns to remove -- this enabled me to reinstall it in the same position
as before.

Likely this info is too late to be if use -- but I think you could torque
it to spec and be close enough (using the same shims).  Others may have
better input on this.

Geo


On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 4:16 PM, Jim Vassiliadis <jimstr4@gmail.com> wrote:

> My mechanic has removed the drive flange and has said that the drive flange
> has a mark that needs to be removed by linishing prior to speedy sleeving
> and installing a new seal.
> He then said that if its linished to remove the mark then it wont need a
> speedi sleeve.
> However what he is not sure about is whether the diff has to be taken apart
> to be reshimmed now that the drive flange has been removed.
> Does anyone know whether he can just put the flange back and do up the nut
> or he we opened up a can of worms?
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Jim and the 1962 TR4
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 18:46:52 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 0:45:11 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Jim Vassiliadis <jimstr4@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Diff Pinion Seal
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> Does anyone know whether he can just put the flange back and do up the nut
> or he we opened up a can of worms?

Should be no problem at all on a TR4.  Just torque it to the book value (85-100 ftlb) and put in a new cotter pin.  If the shims were right before, they will still be right afterwards.  (The problem units are later TR6, where the shims were replaced by a single-use collapsible spacer.)

However, I find it odd that your mechanic says the surface has to be refinished before installing a Speedi-sleeve.  The whole point of the sleeve is that the surface does not need to be perfect.  He may be right about not needed the sleeve after the linishing (depends on how deep the mark is), but I wouldn't do both.

Randall

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 23:06:42 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] just put a remote brake booster in a TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Been working on a TR3a with a buddy.  A friend of his has a basket case car
fully painted but in pieces.

We've been putting together this "kit" for the last couple months - Lots of
unexpected (but expected) tweaking needed to be done- DPO DPBM (BM=bodyman)
left us lots of fun.   One box had a remote brake booster in it - hadn't
seen one before and the next month they show up in Moss catalog.  He wants
us to install it....

Thought it would be a nightmare - but really not bad at all - it needs to
be tipped up at a 15 degree angle, so drilling the inner fender well and
mounting it across from the fuel pump was perfect - nice angle and close to
the Master cylinder.

Let me know if you want some pics of the install.Its all together and
running now - but leaks a ton of oil from the rear of the engine - but the
brake pedal is quite nice with the power booster.

Chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 21:09:49 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <407B7C00-504A-43F0-8BC8-74147F662ECD@mgcarclub.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 20:09:37 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It was told to me by a TR restorer in the bis for 34 years to only use the
heavy duty ones from BPNW. And I believe him, not the internet. In fact one
of the lightened ones I had in my engine destroyed itself after 3 years and
would have took the cam with it were it not for the cracked block.

Johnnie
67 TR4A

> 
> Moss and British Parts Northwest have a lightened and oil drilled
> tappet with similar part descriptions but BPNW is less than half the
> price of Moss. (half $ x 8 is hard to ignore). But it is for a street
> engine and I could save more money and buy the stock ones. Any
> opinions?
> 
> Allen

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 11 23:38:58 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 23:43:49 -0500
To: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>,=?iso-8859-1?Q?=93triumphs?=
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?_list=93?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
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For a street motor I'd use the "stock" ones from BPNW.

Tony Drews

At 10:50 AM 9/11/2013, Allen Hess wrote:
>Moss and British Parts Northwest have a lightened and oil drilled
>tappet with similar part descriptions but BPNW is less than half the
>price of Moss. (half $ x 8 is hard to ignore). But it is for a street
>engine and I could save more money and buy the stock ones. Any opinions?
>
>Allen
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 06:45:51 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Diff Pinion Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Which surface and which part needs linishing? The shaft should be ready for
the sleeve as is, unless he (or dpo) buggered it up while removing the
seal...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 06:56:42 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <407B7C00-504A-43F0-8BC8-74147F662ECD@mgcarclub.com>
	<20130912053905.F0F54403A8@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/11/13 9:43 PM, Tony Drews wrote:
> For a street motor I'd use the "stock" ones from BPNW.
>
> Tony Drews
Whatever you buy, be sure to run a hardness test on each lifter. Return 
anything that tests less than Rockwell 50 hardness.  If you are using 
higher pressure valve springs return anything less than 54.  For a full 
race engine the hardness should probably be 56 or above.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'John & Pat Donnelly'" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <407B7C00-504A-43F0-8BC8-74147F662ECD@mgcarclub.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There had been a series of failed tappet/cam issues with new lifters.  Many
of the new lifters failed to meet the Rockwell hardness test of the ones
coming out.  

The whole ZDDP /Flat Tappet issue happened at the same time.  Ultimately, I
believe it had more to do with the break in lube/oil than the hardness of
the Tappets, as everybody in the hobby was having the same issue - not just
the TR guys.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:10 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets

It was told to me by a TR restorer in the bis for 34 years to only use the
heavy duty ones from BPNW. And I believe him, not the internet. In fact one
of the lightened ones I had in my engine destroyed itself after 3 years and
would have took the cam with it were it not for the cracked block.

Johnnie
67 TR4A

> 
> Moss and British Parts Northwest have a lightened and oil drilled 
> tappet with similar part descriptions but BPNW is less than half the 
> price of Moss. (half $ x 8 is hard to ignore). But it is for a street 
> engine and I could save more money and buy the stock ones. Any 
> opinions?
> 
> Allen

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog@hotmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 08:18:51 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 07:12:48 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <407B7C00-504A-43F0-8BC8-74147F662ECD@mgcarclub.com>
	<00c601ceaf65$8410e320$8c32a960$@rr.com>
	<BAY173-DS14EF79761961DEEA6BCFCDC63A0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/12/13 7:00 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> There had been a series of failed tappet/cam issues with new lifters.  Many
> of the new lifters failed to meet the Rockwell hardness test of the ones
> coming out.
>
> The whole ZDDP /Flat Tappet issue happened at the same time.  Ultimately, I
> believe it had more to do with the break in lube/oil than the hardness of
> the Tappets, as everybody in the hobby was having the same issue - not just
> the TR guys.
Well, I still returned a bunch of brand new soft tappets that didn't 
come close to spec.  The factory tappets were over 50 hardness.

And about 2 years ago I had to replace the cam in my TR3 because of wear 
and pitting on both the cam & lifters.  I had been running Castrol with 
no additives.  Since then I only use oil labeled for use with flat 
tappet engines.  All my new tappets tested to 54 or higher.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 08:33:02 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <407B7C00-504A-43F0-8BC8-74147F662ECD@mgcarclub.com>
	<00c601ceaf65$8410e320$8c32a960$@rr.com>
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 07:29:04 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
	FILETIME=[78B71BC0:01CEAFC4]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used this standard on my last 3 TR3/4 rebuilds (2 morgan, 1 TR3) and
haven't had any issues either, but use a ZDDP additive.  

Good insurance, and easy to test for, but I have to admit that I am curious
as to which issue was driving the failures (a combination of the 2?)

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 7:13 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets

On 9/12/13 7:00 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> There had been a series of failed tappet/cam issues with new lifters.  
> Many of the new lifters failed to meet the Rockwell hardness test of 
> the ones coming out.
>
> The whole ZDDP /Flat Tappet issue happened at the same time.  
> Ultimately, I believe it had more to do with the break in lube/oil 
> than the hardness of the Tappets, as everybody in the hobby was having 
> the same issue - not just the TR guys.
Well, I still returned a bunch of brand new soft tappets that didn't come
close to spec.  The factory tappets were over 50 hardness.

And about 2 years ago I had to replace the cam in my TR3 because of wear and
pitting on both the cam & lifters.  I had been running Castrol with no
additives.  Since then I only use oil labeled for use with flat tappet
engines.  All my new tappets tested to 54 or higher.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog@hotmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 11:22:18 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 17:20:28 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: ED Morat <emorat1@hotmail.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good on you!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "ED Morat" <emorat1@hotmail.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 11:51:40 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR-6 Back in Action
> All,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm proud to announce that after 12 years in my garage Ihave my TR-6
> back on
> the road. It was fully restored, hydraulics, all new parts front and
> back,
> gas (Tank and Stainless lined fuel lines). Electronic ignition,
> electric fan,
> carbs rebuilt by Paltech Techonoligies and much more. I have had the
> pleasure
> of driving it and what a thrill
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 18:23:13 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 20:18:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just out of curiosity, where would one get tappets checked for hardness?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
(Praying my tappets are hard enough)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 20:02:27 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 18:58:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/4 tappets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

at my house
Frank

From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 5:18 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3/4 tappets


Just out of curiosity, where would one get tappets checked for hardness?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
(Praying my tappets are hard enough)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 22:39:41 2013
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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 16:38:41 +1200
Thread-Index: Ac6wOx9t5HTfIkWlRnmKRoxo4Y055w==
Subject: [TR] Diff Pinion Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thankyou for the replies.
We decided that because the marks were a bit worse than minor, they'd be
filled with liquid metal epoxy then sanded and then speedi sleeved.
 
Then the flange would be torqued back to spec as per the recommendations.
 
Jims TR4 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 09:54:21 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 08:13:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Electrical Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     My 1974 TR6 has not really be driven since the mid-80's sometime, maybe
even earlier.I have logged about 15 miles in 1 block test drives over the last
5 years.  It just put in a new front clip of the inner left fenderwell and
front valence and the bodywork is bolted back together. Before this project
(about three weeks ago) I took the car for a test drive without fenders and
hood. Now that I want to go for a test drive with the assembled car, the car
won't start. It started up the first try and then stopped when I discovered
that it was out of gas. I put in gas and then it cranked briefly and slowly. I
assumed that it was a dead battery, but the battery had been charged recently.
I heard what sounded like the starter solenoid clicking.
     When I hook up
the battery, something clinks under the hood like it is energized with the key
off. I checked it out and found that on the right side of the radiator are two
cylindrical things. The top (big) one has hoses going into it (carbon
cannister?) and the smaller bottom one has two wires attached to it. The
bottom one appears to be what is clicking when the battery is hooked up. Can
someone tell me what this thing is?
      I previously had problems with the
ignition key and it wouldn't turn or come out of the ignition. A little WD-40
and working it and it eventually turned. It is the original key. You have to
joggle the key in the start position to get the car to start, like it has a
bad contact.
     I am still trying to figure out what I have for a car and
need to drive and test it.
     TR6 electrical is a lot more complicated than
my TR3.
     I am assuming that perhaps my starter solenoid is burned out.
   
 Any advice would be appreciated.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 09:55:28 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 10:26:50 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6wj4w9WFf3V35TQhG+/a4vTVu6hQAA+pKw
Subject: [TR] FW: [mogtalk2] Goodwood Revival Live Streaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Live stream from Goodwood.  Just watching a couple of Minis dicing with a
couple of 1963 Ford Galaxie 500s.  Interesting mix indeed.

At 18:15 PM (GMT)  everyone in the UK time zone should be able to watch live
streaming of the Freddie March  Memorial Race from Goodwood using the link
below  (featuring NOJ 393 and several other 100s Austin Healeys - NOJ 393
was restored by Steve Pike of Australia):
http://www.goodwood.co.uk/revival/revival-live/revival-live.aspx

Cheers,
Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 11:04:31 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 10:04:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6wmYUbYIVcOSMtTgSZyJ/0TSPlZAAB+mTQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Electrical Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I checked it out and found that on the right side of the 
> radiator are two
> cylindrical things. The top (big) one has hoses going into it (carbon
> cannister?) and the smaller bottom one has two wires attached 
> to it. The
> bottom one appears to be what is clicking when the battery is 
> hooked up. Can
> someone tell me what this thing is?

That would be the anti-runon valve.  It is supposed to be energized only when the key is off and the engine still has oil pressure.
Sounds like your oil pressure switch is wired wrong.  For now, just pull a wire off the solenoid.

>      I am assuming that perhaps my starter solenoid is burned out.

Could be, but doesn't seem likely from your description.  Try momentarily running a jumper from the hot side of the batter to the
side terminal on the solenoid (the one that should have a white/red wire on it) and see what happens.  If the engine cranks, the
problem is not the solenoid.  If not, use a voltmeter to check first that you are actually getting 12v from the side terminal to the
solenoid housing; and then check the voltage across the two big terminals on the solenoid.  If it has juice coming in, but there is
12v between the two big terminals _then_ the solenoid is bad.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 11:33:11 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 13:32:59 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1379093579;
	bh=Fp17d0nYK1Iu2i508IpGt/1xoAQoFUFIaLfO1NC+Vyc=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Electrical Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That little round thing with the two wires going to it is the Anti-Run-On 
valve.  It works in concert with the three prong oil pressure switch and a 
special contact on the keyswitch to energize when shutting down.  It applies 
manifold vacuum to the charcoal canisters and hence to the top side of the 
float chambers in the carburetors to starve the engine of gasoline to prevent 
run-on.  It should not be clicking in the situation you describe.  Since you 
have had problems with the keyswitch I would look there first.  If this 
stays energized all the time the engine will start but will not continue to run 
very well.  But it will not prevent it from starting.

If your battery is fully charged but cranks slowly there are a couple 
things to check.  Check the battery ground connection.  On the TR6 the negative 
cable has two tabs, one of which attached to the body at the firewall and the 
other attaches to the engine/bell housing flange.  Make sure that 
connection is solid.  Also check the positive cable connections at both ends.

If you engage the starter with the lights on do they dim?  If they dim then 
you may need a new starter.  If they do not it could be the solenoid.

The next step is to dust off the multimeter.  Measure the voltage between 
the engine block and battery negative when cranking.  It should not exceed .5 
volts.  Measure the voltage from the starter stud and the battery positive 
post.  It should not exceed .5 volts.  Knowing this will help narrow down 
the search.

Good luck.

Dave

In a message dated 9/13/2013 10:53:49 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a@att.net writes: 
>      My 1974 TR6 has not really be driven since the mid-80's sometime, 
> maybe
> even earlier.I have logged about 15 miles in 1 block test drives over the 
> last
> 5 years.  It just put in a new front clip of the inner left fenderwell and
> front valence and the bodywork is bolted back together. Before this 
> project
> (about three weeks ago) I took the car for a test drive without fenders 
> and
> hood. Now that I want to go for a test drive with the assembled car, the 
> car
> won't start. It started up the first try and then stopped when I 
> discovered
> that it was out of gas. I put in gas and then it cranked briefly and 
> slowly. I
> assumed that it was a dead battery, but the battery had been charged 
> recently.
> I heard what sounded like the starter solenoid clicking.
>      When I hook up
> the battery, something clinks under the hood like it is energized with the 
> key
> off. I checked it out and found that on the right side of the radiator are 
> two
> cylindrical things. The top (big) one has hoses going into it (carbon
> cannister?) and the smaller bottom one has two wires attached to it. The
> bottom one appears to be what is clicking when the battery is hooked up. 
> Can
> someone tell me what this thing is?
>       I previously had problems with the
> ignition key and it wouldn't turn or come out of the ignition. A little 
> WD-40
> and working it and it eventually turned. It is the original key. You have 
> to
> joggle the key in the start position to get the car to start, like it has 
> a
> bad contact.
>      I am still trying to figure out what I have for a car and
> need to drive and test it.
>      TR6 electrical is a lot more complicated than
> my TR3.
>      I am assuming that perhaps my starter solenoid is burned out.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 14:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Misc TR6 Ignition, VA and Other Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Took the 1974 TR6 out on the road for the first real drive in about 30
years. I drove it about 50 miles. The car did well, but I still have lots of
work ahead.
     Some miscellaneous questions, mostly about doing the car's
first tune up in about 30 years:

     1. Has anyone installed the MOSS vacuum
advance upgrade on their TR6? The car came with vacuum retard for smog
reasons.

     2. Where does the original vacuum retard hook in to? Mine is
just hanging.

     3. If you put 205-70-15 tires on a TR6 and then use the
MOSS stiffer springs which lower the car 1", will the tires rub?

     4. My
trans has a leak out the rear seal. Can it be changed with the trans in the
car? About how hard is it? It makes an oil spot about 5 times as big as all of
the other oil spots combined.

     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 14:23:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hood Hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I bought a set of new unused TR6 hood hinges off of Ebay. When I went to
install them they were like 1" too narrow to fit the hood. Is there another
TR, maybe a TR4, TR250 or GT6, that uses a hinge similar to the TR6?

   
 -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 19:28:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sanity Check on Moss fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

OK,
I am getting real close to starting my TR4A for the first time in 13 years..
Checking for possible fuel leaks, I put a couple of gallons of gas in the tank
and using the priming lever on my new Moss fuel pump, I was able to fill the
carbs. However, after a few additional pumps of the priming lever, suddenly
nothing is happening when I press down on the priming lever. I am assuming
that the carbs are full and when I press down on the lever, there is no room
for more fuel so nothing happens...
I went back upstairs to eat dinner and will see if I can bleed off some of the
fuel and see if the pump will replace the fuel. I am just making sure that I
won't toast my new camshaft by not running the engine for 20-30 minutes to
seat the cam lifters by running out of fricking gas.
Am I worrying too much or what?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 21:27:28 2013
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From: Charles <dyer-charles@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 20:07:42 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Cc: "wsb1960tr3a@att.net" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Electrical Issues
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Concerning your recent message:
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 08:13:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Electrical Issues

Bill:

The key piece of information may be the fact that this is a "1974" TR6.  I
think one very real possibility is that the dreaded seatbelt ignition
interlock module/system is not functioning properly.  Check that you follow
the correct sequence if you sit in the drivers seat, fasten seat belt, door
closed, no passenger in seat or belted up.  The seatbelt interlock module in
the footwell area under the dash on the passenger side can be bypassed if
necessary with a jumper wire between the relevant pins (I'm sure someone on
the list can supply the relevant link, tech bulletin, and method).  But, that
would be one possible fault to explain the non-start condition.

--Charles

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 23:32:30 -0400
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
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To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <5C546F25330C4F7F9EBC36DFC5EC0ECD@DaveLaptop>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Sanity Check on Moss fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Once the floats close the gas lines, that stops the flow ISTR.

Doug
On 9/13/2013 7:28 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> OK,
> I am getting real close to starting my TR4A for the first time in 13 years..
> Checking for possible fuel leaks, I put a couple of gallons of gas in the tank
> and using the priming lever on my new Moss fuel pump, I was able to fill the
> carbs. However, after a few additional pumps of the priming lever, suddenly
> nothing is happening when I press down on the priming lever. I am assuming
> that the carbs are full and when I press down on the lever, there is no room
> for more fuel so nothing happens...
> I went back upstairs to eat dinner and will see if I can bleed off some of the
> fuel and see if the pump will replace the fuel. I am just making sure that I
> won't toast my new camshaft by not running the engine for 20-30 minutes to
> seat the cam lifters by running out of fricking gas.
> Am I worrying too much or what?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mathews@uga.edu
>
>
>

-- 

p.s. I do not use a smart phone so if you email me and do not get a quick response it is not because I am ignoring you. Just not at a computer.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 23:44:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Moss fuel pump update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I was lucky or right.. what ever.
The hand pump must stop working when the carbs are full because when I went
back down in the garage after dinner, the hand plunger worked again.
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <5C546F25330C4F7F9EBC36DFC5EC0ECD@DaveLaptop>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 23:05:58 -0500
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Sanity Check on Moss fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

Yes, when the carb bowls are full it looks/feels like nothing's happening.

If it will comfort you, pull the line at carbs and manually pump fuel into a
container to see that all is working correctly.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 13, 2013, at 6:28 PM, "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> OK,
> I am getting real close to starting my TR4A for the first time in 13
years..
> Checking for possible fuel leaks, I put a couple of gallons of gas in the
tank
> and using the priming lever on my new Moss fuel pump, I was able to fill
the
> carbs. However, after a few additional pumps of the priming lever, suddenly
> nothing is happening when I press down on the priming lever. I am assuming
> that the carbs are full and when I press down on the lever, there is no
room
> for more fuel so nothing happens...
> I went back upstairs to eat dinner and will see if I can bleed off some of
the
> fuel and see if the pump will replace the fuel. I am just making sure that
I
> won't toast my new camshaft by not running the engine for 20-30 minutes to
> seat the cam lifters by running out of fricking gas.
> Am I worrying too much or what?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 01:36:10 2013
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5C546F25330C4F7F9EBC36DFC5EC0ECD@DaveLaptop>
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 23:29:45 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Sanity Check on Moss fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, you are correct. Once the bowls are full and the floats rise and close 
off any further fuel flow, the pump lever doesn't move the diaphragm but 
flops up and down without resistance.

If all gaskets are good and the needle valves are doing their jobs, you 
probably won't be able to force more fuel into the carbs.

Also, you may be aware that even if the bowls are empty, the pump lever 
won't do anything if the engine cam is in a position that  keeps the pump 
arm from being moved by the external lever. In that case, you have to rotate 
the crank until it's at a position where you can feel resistance to moving 
the lever ( again, assuming that the bowls are not already full).

Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 6:28 PM
Subject: [TR] Sanity Check on Moss fuel pump


> OK,
> I am getting real close to starting my TR4A for the first time in 13 
> years..
> Checking for possible fuel leaks, I put a couple of gallons of gas in the 
> tank
> and using the priming lever on my new Moss fuel pump, I was able to fill 
> the
> carbs. However, after a few additional pumps of the priming lever, 
> suddenly
> nothing is happening when I press down on the priming lever. I am assuming
> that the carbs are full and when I press down on the lever, there is no 
> room
> for more fuel so nothing happens...
> I went back upstairs to eat dinner and will see if I can bleed off some of 
> the
> fuel and see if the pump will replace the fuel. I am just making sure that 
> I
> won't toast my new camshaft by not running the engine for 20-30 minutes to
> seat the cam lifters by running out of fricking gas.
> Am I worrying too much or what?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 09:55:20 2013
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References: <BBF7085AB18042119CB5D17FDD52AF7B@DaveLaptop>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 05:48:28 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss fuel pump update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As I recall, when using the hand pump after a long sit I can tell a
definite change in how it feels once I get the bowls full.

Geo


On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 8:44 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> I was lucky or right.. what ever.
> The hand pump must stop working when the carbs are full because when I went
> back down in the garage after dinner, the hand plunger worked again.
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 16:25:31 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 13:52:47 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:22.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/22.0 SeaMonkey/2.19
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Team.Net issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Still having some slow network problems, list mail may be seriously delayed,
please be patient.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 23:52:01 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 22:58:09 -0400
From: aribert neumann <aribertn@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tr6 - no oil to rocker shaft (Long post)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings all:

Spit boded GT6 w/ a 2.5L motor, about 80K miles on full rebuild, about 15K
miles on head gasket (blown) & cam (several wiped lobes) replacement.  A
month ago one morning I noticed that there was no indicated oil pressure at
hot idle.  Above 2000 rpm oil pressure was just over 10psi/1000 rpm (lower
than normal).  I checked the oil level and listened for rod knock.  Oil
level was good and there was no rod knock so I drove it home (about 40
miles).

The screw that retains the rocker shaft had backed out and starved the
rockers downstream of oil.  This is a phillips headed countersunk screw - I
should have used lock-tite.

I replaced the rocker shaft / rockers.  The new rocker shaft had set screws
in the ends instead of pressed in plugs.   I went to remove the screws to
make sure the inside of the rocker shaft was clean of machining debris.
The set screws were only finger tight - beware if you are replacing a
rocker shaft in the future to check for loose set screws!

Now I am not getting oil to the new rocker shaft.  Cold idle oil pressure
is 80+ psi and hot idle is down to 8 to 10 psi (was about 20 PSI earlier)
but with engine hot, at 2K rpm oil press is 45 psi (about the same as
before).   Oil is just oozing out of the rockers.  Blipping the throttle to
2K rpm without the valve cover in place and there is no oil spray on the
firewall.   I removed the oil port plug in the head and started up the
engine (cold) and less than a teaspoon came out in about 30 sec.

The mechanical oil pressure gauge is tapped into the oil galley at the
distributor.  The oil to the head is fed via the cam at the rear most cam
bearing (block was line bored and has Spit cam bearings).   The cam meters
out the oil that travels up to the head. Did the rear cam bearing get
starved for oil when the rocker shaft screw came out?   I am trying to
predict the damage before I pull the engine to dismantle and inspect - no
time to do so now.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 10:46:42 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 10:16:28 -0400
References: <mailman.6465.1378230291.2541.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[2B114C40:01CEB21E]
Subject: [TR] 2 Rubber Overriders Needed for 1976 TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thursday someone hit me in the right rear, glancing off the big rubber
overrider and the wrap around of the chrome bumber. The only damage to my car
was the right rear overrider was scraped and visibly fractured in the center.
It is obviously not going to withstand another such shunt and I'd like to
replace it in preparation for the next one.

Also when pushing the front of car sideways by the left front overider, while
the car was on dolleys, the left front overrider came loose. It appears I
ripped it internally from its mount and although it hasn't fallen off yet I'm
afraid it could. It too is obviously not very functional.

Does anyone have cosmetically & funcionally good right rear &  left front
rubber overriders for a '76 TR6 that they would like to sell me?

-Dave Murphy, DTSC

Dearborn Michigan

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 07:26:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: [mogtalk2] Goodwood Revival Live Streaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill
been watching it both days
thanks for the link
great stuff
Frank

From:
"wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Friday, September 13, 2013 8:26 AM
Subject: [TR] FW: [mogtalk2] Goodwood
Revival Live Streaming


Live stream from Goodwood.  Just watching a couple of
Minis dicing with a
couple of 1963 Ford Galaxie 500s.  Interesting mix indeed.
At 18:15 PM (GMT)  everyone in the UK time zone should be able to watch live
streaming of the Freddie March  Memorial Race from Goodwood using the link
below  (featuring NOJ 393 and several other 100s Austin Healeys - NOJ 393
was
restored by Steve Pike of Australia):
http://www.goodwood.co.uk/revival/revival-live/revival-live.aspx

Cheers,
Bill
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 21:21:36 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1379107391.82209.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 21:09:17 -0400
Thread-Index: AQB+B4wODyeSws5ZBwohFTsB0hWaZpxo4tLw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Hood Hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

With a forward folding whole-hood assembly, I can't imagine that GT6 hinges
would be close in design. I would think that hinges from the "big three" or
other supporters of our hobby would work.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 5:23 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Hood Hinges

     I bought a set of new unused TR6 hood hinges off of Ebay. When I went
to install them they were like 1" too narrow to fit the hood. Is there
another TR, maybe a TR4, TR250 or GT6, that uses a hinge similar to the TR6?

   
 -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 16 21:22:31 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 22:02:21 -0400
	FILETIME=[F2826760:01CEB349]
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup weekend at Road America
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://youtu.be/bVcq5awD2o0

Above is a couple of laps of in-car video from the group 2 feature from Road
America last Sunday in a Spitfire.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 16 23:04:50 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 22:36:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] very OT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

some folks who are enamored of these cars have launched a website.

www.sunbeamvenezia.com

there is one in the Dallas area I believe.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 16 23:28:52 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 04:42:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1379393087;
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Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Kastner Cup weekend at Road America
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll be releasing some stills "real soon now".  This working 40 hours a week is getting in the way of my play time!

The concour is is up already:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157635478068173/with/9695776137/


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "marty sukey" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 9:02:21 PM
> Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup weekend at Road America
> http://youtu.be/bVcq5awD2o0
> 
> Above is a couple of laps of in-car video from the group 2 feature
> from Road
> America last Sunday in a Spitfire.
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 06:43:15 2013
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	<91610845DD3143488B787EF576EE685C@athlon4200>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 06:50:08 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just had to forward this post that came in on the Triumph Roadster list.

It does indeed make one feel old :)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:27 AM
Subject: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
To: TRM1946-49@googlegroups.com


**
I just received this from a friend....................


About an hour ago I drove through the car park of the Gleneagles Hotel and
came across two young guys studying a map on the boot lid of an immaculate
1974 (N) TR6 with and open top.

It transpired that the two guys in their early 30s had hired it for the day
and were planning a trip in the Perthshire hills. As the conversation
progressed they made the following comments.

It is very stiff to steer

It has a choke and I dont even know what a choke is or what it does

It seems to have an overdrive .What IS that?

The brakes arent very effective.

Weve only driven 20 miles and my leg is sore as the clutch is stiff to
press. Do you think theres something wrong with it?

Having given some explanations about 1970s technology and advice on a
possible route I left feeling very old and with a clear vision of the
generation gap

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 08:04:40 2013
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References: <676EE375A4C34E66B3D4F8F770144113@Datsun>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 09:59:37 -0400
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] very OT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

At the Brits at the Beach in Wilmington, NC this weekend, there had to
be more than 10 Alpines and Tigers in attendance.  Never seen so many at a
"normal" British car event in my life.  Love the v8's - one or two had a
more modern V6 - I understood they equal or exceed the power of the orignal
v8s.   Great cars and a really nice show.

 www.sunbeamvenezia.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 08:54:39 2013
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From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 10:59:23 -0400
To: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
Can anyone recommend a vendor for stainless steel brake lines?????
By the way for TR3A.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
65 TR4A on a TR4 frame
CTC64651LO
allegrorover@mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 09:21:48 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 15:15:46 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: bkahler1@gmail.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net
	s=q20121106; t=1379430947;
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	DlfQToPXouXpg==
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You needed to take the wheel and give them rides in it to show them the ropes. 



Original Message===================

I just had to forward this post that came in on the Triumph Roadster list.

It does indeed make one feel old :)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:27 AM
Subject: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
To: TRM1946-49@googlegroups.com


**
I just received this from a friend....................


About an hour ago I drove through the car park of the Gleneagles Hotel and
came across two young guys studying a map on the boot lid of an immaculate
1974 (N) TR6 with and open top.

It transpired that the two guys in their early 30s had hired it for the day
and were planning a trip in the Perthshire hills. As the conversation
progressed they made the following comments.

It is very stiff to steer

It has a choke and I dont even know what a choke is or what it does

It seems to have an overdrive .What IS that?

The brakes arent very effective.

Weve only driven 20 miles and my leg is sore as the clutch is stiff to
press. Do you think theres something wrong with it?

Having given some explanations about 1970s technology and advice on a
possible route I left feeling very old and with a clear vision of the
generation gap

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 11:59:27 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Anthony Cascio'" <allegrorover@mac.com>,
	"'triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 10:59:06 -0700
thread-index: Ac6ztdOMJ4Wu1djEQvmWdxpkUNUmywAGNnug
Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Can anyone recommend a vendor for stainless steel brake lines?????
> By the way for TR3A.

No, but I will throw in a plug for Cunifer brake lines, made by Automec and available from Moss.  Cunifer is a special alloy
developed specifically for hydraulic brake lines, with high corrosion resistance and DOT approval.  It is also a whole bunch easier
to work with than either SS or the original terne-plated seamless steel.

Assuming you are talking about the hard brake lines; not the hoses made with PTFE tubing and a SS braid over the outside.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 12:04:04 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 13:00:05 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Radiator Fan switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I suspect my radiator fan switch is not working as it should.  Is there 
a way to test it?

I put the old one and a new one in a cup of hot water - not sure of the 
temp, but I used the hot beverage setting on the microwave, then went 
another 30 seconds, so I thought it be over 180.

Neither of the switches showed continuity.

But now for my biggest problem.  When I tried to take the old switch out 
of the radiator, the bung came out with it.  I am assuming that is 
something a radiator shop should be able to fix.

If I could seal it and get to the shop would they be able to fix it in 
the car?

Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 13:19:05 2013
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From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 14:18:44 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6z2rkWINrub6UpTN66s9gmLJ8QQw==
Subject: [TR] Idle Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have just spent 1/2 the day trying to resolve the idle, or lack thereof, on
the TR3B project.  Engine is in the chassis only as the body is still off at
the painter.  Carbs freshly re-built, new electric fuel pump installed,
timing set, vacuum line attached and advance checked and working.
 
Starts and runs great, but will not idle down below around 1500 RPM.  After
that it will just start to slowly stumble then die.  Always starts right
back up.  I have adjusted the jets 1-2 & 3 flats each way with no
discernable difference.
 
What else should I check?
 
 
Many thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 14:16:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 16:16:48 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: bill_beecher@flash.net
References: <8F4CE2FA26644CA99C2EA16E9A1C4D26@bboffice>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Idle Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. Maybe try to spray some wd40 
where the carbs are attached and the intake manifold to see if you can 
detect a leak.

Also check the dash pots to insure they are filled with 20W or ATF. Make 
sure the carb pistons are not sticking.

I use that blue gasket stuff in addition to the stock gaskets when 
attaching both the intake manifold and the carbs to the manifold.

All 3 engines purr at around 750 to 850 RPM when warm.

Bob

On 09/17/2013 03:18 PM, bill_beecher@flash.net wrote:
> Have just spent 1/2 the day trying to resolve the idle, or lack thereof, on
> the TR3B project.  Engine is in the chassis only as the body is still off at
> the painter.  Carbs freshly re-built, new electric fuel pump installed,
> timing set, vacuum line attached and advance checked and working.
>   
> Starts and runs great, but will not idle down below around 1500 RPM.  After
> that it will just start to slowly stumble then die.  Always starts right
> back up.  I have adjusted the jets 1-2 & 3 flats each way with no
> discernable difference.
>   
> What else should I check?
>   
>   
> Many thanks,
> Bill
>   
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
>   <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 13:23:01 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <8F4CE2FA26644CA99C2EA16E9A1C4D26@bboffice>
Subject: Re: [TR] Idle Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/17/13 12:18 PM, bill_beecher@flash.net wrote:
> Have just spent 1/2 the day trying to resolve the idle, or lack thereof, on
> the TR3B project.  Engine is in the chassis only as the body is still off at
> the painter.  Carbs freshly re-built, new electric fuel pump installed,
> timing set, vacuum line attached and advance checked and working.
>   
> Starts and runs great, but will not idle down below around 1500 RPM.  After
> that it will just start to slowly stumble then die.  Always starts right
> back up.  I have adjusted the jets 1-2 & 3 flats each way with no
> discernable difference.
>   
> What else should I check?
Check the fuel pressure.  A lot of electric pumps produce a pressure 
that will overcome the SU float valve.  You want the pressure to be 
about 2-1/2 to 3 lbs.

The common 7 PSI pumps tend not to work well with SUs or Webbers

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 14:49:01 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 16:48:53 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130803
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
References: <8F4CE2FA26644CA99C2EA16E9A1C4D26@bboffice>
	<5238BA25.3010805@gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Idle Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good point TeriAnn. A reliable pressure regulator is a must for 
electronic fuel pumps.

I guess I figured or forgot. I have the Facet pump on all 3 of my TRs 
with regulators.

Bob

On 09/17/2013 04:23 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 9/17/13 12:18 PM, bill_beecher@flash.net wrote:
>> Have just spent 1/2 the day trying to resolve the idle, or lack 
>> thereof, on
>> the TR3B project.  Engine is in the chassis only as the body is still 
>> off at
>> the painter.  Carbs freshly re-built, new electric fuel pump installed,
>> timing set, vacuum line attached and advance checked and working.
>>   Starts and runs great, but will not idle down below around 1500 
>> RPM.  After
>> that it will just start to slowly stumble then die.  Always starts right
>> back up.  I have adjusted the jets 1-2 & 3 flats each way with no
>> discernable difference.
>>   What else should I check?
> Check the fuel pressure.  A lot of electric pumps produce a pressure 
> that will overcome the SU float valve.  You want the pressure to be 
> about 2-1/2 to 3 lbs.
>
> The common 7 PSI pumps tend not to work well with SUs or Webbers
>
> TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 15:00:12 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Anthony Cascio'" <allegrorover@mac.com>,
	"'triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <17472AB6-3960-471A-97A7-04E07BC97472@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 16:56:26 -0400
Thread-index: AQEm2vjAmZqScJ/pSOWWiH8S0T3bMZsaGpVQ
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ted Schumacher - TSI in Ohio - don't have info handy - but highly recommend

>From my mobile


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 10:59 AM
To: triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion
Subject: [TR] brake lines

List,
Can anyone recommend a vendor for stainless steel brake lines?????
By the way for TR3A.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
65 TR4A on a TR4 frame
CTC64651LO
allegrorover@mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
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In a related vein, there was an interesting question in the Car Talk column
in Sunday's paper, it's on their web site at
http://www.cartalk.com/content/today-recreating-road-trip

I liked their answer - mostly.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 3:50 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap

I just had to forward this post that came in on the Triumph Roadster list.

It does indeed make one feel old :)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:27 AM
Subject: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
To: TRM1946-49@googlegroups.com


**
I just received this from a friend....................


About an hour ago I drove through the car park of the Gleneagles Hotel and
came across two young guys studying a map on the boot lid of an immaculate
1974 (N) TR6 with and open top.

It transpired that the two guys in their early 30s had hired it for the day
and were planning a trip in the Perthshire hills. As the conversation
progressed they made the following comments.

It is very stiff to steer

It has a choke and I dont even know what a choke is or what it does

It seems to have an overdrive .What IS that?

The brakes arent very effective.

Weve only driven 20 miles and my leg is sore as the clutch is stiff to
press. Do you think theres something wrong with it?

Having given some explanations about 1970s technology and advice on a
possible route I left feeling very old and with a clear vision of the
generation gap

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 16:47:10 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
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If you are looking for SS hard line I recommend Classic Tube
http://www.classictube.com/

I put a set in my car and they mostly fit.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>


List,
Can anyone recommend a vendor for stainless steel brake lines?????
By the way for TR3A.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 17:33:14 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
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They are also great for the hard gas lines for the tr3 (the ones under the
hood)
C


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 6:41 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines

If you are looking for SS hard line I recommend Classic Tube
http://www.classictube.com/

I put a set in my car and they mostly fit.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>


List,
Can anyone recommend a vendor for stainless steel brake lines?????
By the way for TR3A.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 17:33:40 2013
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	<8D0820E11C09419-1B8C-39DCC@webmail-m290.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 00:30:44 +0100
From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I may be a little late with my contribution. But here goes:

Here in the UK we are still able to use copper brake piping which I believe
is illegal in the US.
I personally agree with the US stance on this subject, it is just too soft
and will corrode easily. As an MOT (UK annual roadworthy test) tester I
have seen many crushed pipes and very green corroded ones.

I always use the cupro nickle tube, branded Kunifer in UK, and always make
up my own using a Snap-On flaring kit and a mini pipe bender. It is the
only way I know of getting the fit and look just right.

As for stainless steel piping I think this is overkill and as an aside too
hard to flare with most kits available.

Or are you reffering to the use of stainless flexi hoses? these are a good
idea as they help prevent a spongy pedal and are very durable. But they
stand out like a sore thumb and are hardly original, not for me
unfortunately.


I often wonder why all car manufacturers never fitted cuporo nickle brake
pipes instead of steel when the car was new. It would save a lot of
dangerous cars on the road a few years down the line.

Adrian
TR4A CT 64306 O
Wales UK


On 17 September 2013 23:40, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> If you are looking for SS hard line I recommend Classic Tube
> http://www.classictube.com/
>
> I put a set in my car and they mostly fit.
>
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
>
>
> List,
> Can anyone recommend a vendor for stainless steel brake lines?????
> By the way for TR3A.
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Tony Cascio
> 58 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 18:04:10 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 17:59:40 -0600
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
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To: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/17/2013 5:30 PM, ADRIAN DIX-DYER wrote:
> I may be a little late with my contribution. But here goes:
>
> Here in the UK we are still able to use copper brake piping which I believe
> is illegal in the US.
> I personally agree with the US stance on this subject, it is just too soft
> and will corrode easily. As an MOT (UK annual roadworthy test) tester I
> have seen many crushed pipes and very green corroded ones.
>
> I always use the cupro nickle tube, branded Kunifer in UK, and always make
> up my own using a Snap-On flaring kit and a mini pipe bender. It is the
> only way I know of getting the fit and look just right.
>
> As for stainless steel piping I think this is overkill and as an aside too
> hard to flare with most kits available.
>
> Or are you reffering to the use of stainless flexi hoses? these are a good
> idea as they help prevent a spongy pedal and are very durable. But they
> stand out like a sore thumb and are hardly original, not for me
> unfortunately.
>
>
> I often wonder why all car manufacturers never fitted cuporo nickle brake
> pipes instead of steel when the car was new. It would save a lot of
> dangerous cars on the road a few years down the line.
>
>

I don't recommend using braided stainless for all lines.  The braided 
stuff has just a bit of diameter change under pressure. It's not really 
noticeable for very short runs, such as replacing the rubber hoses, but 
for full runs throughout, the difference in the pedal is noticeable (had 
an associate who used to run FV, and he thought braided lines throughout 
might be an improvement, until the pedal went to the floor the first 
time under hard pedal pressure). Further, the braided line _must_ be 
clipped exceedingly well with rubber-coated clips.  Otherwise, the small 
fibers tend to abrade and wear through with vibration.  Trust me--saw a 
lot of this in buses where the customer specified such tubing. And once 
the braiding goes, all that's left is the Teflon liner.  And with system 
pressures as high as in brakes, the result is the equivalent of an 
aortic aneurysm.  The shame is that there are advanced materials 
fabric-reinforced synthetic rubber hoses that are even stronger than 
braided stainless/Teflon hoses, and much more abrasion-resistant, but 
they must be custom-made, and are therefore rather expensive.

As for not using Cu-Ni-Fe tubing, it's just a matter of production 
costs.  Mild steel is cheap, forms well and generally lasts through the 
warranty period.  That's just the way manufacturing is today--if it 
doesn't cost the manufacturer anything out of warranty reserve, then it 
doesn't get changed.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 1:11:11 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator Fan switch
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I put the old one and a new one in a cup of hot water - not sure of the 
> temp, but I used the hot beverage setting on the microwave, then went 
> another 30 seconds, so I thought it be over 180.
> 
> Neither of the switches showed continuity.

A little poking around seems to suggest that 180 isn't enough.  Only rating I found was for "92-87 degrees", which I take to mean that it will not close until almost 200F (92C) and then stay on until below 190F (87C).

> If I could seal it and get to the shop would they be able to fix it in 
> the car?

Very unlikely, I would say.  They will want to dip the whole radiator in their cleaning tank, to get clean metal to solder to; and then paint it afterwards.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 20:15:16 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I liked most of the answer too, don't agree about always avoiding highways 
with speeds of 65 or above, while interstate travel is not that much fun in 
a TR, if it is in good shape it can easily cruise at 75 with or without O/D, 
the back roads are more scenic and adventurous, but there are times when you 
just can't logically avoid the freeway, and the TRs can handle it.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 4:18 PM
To: "'Brad Kahler'" <bkahler1@gmail.com>; "'Triumphs'" 
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap

> In a related vein, there was an interesting question in the Car Talk 
> column
> in Sunday's paper, it's on their web site at
> http://www.cartalk.com/content/today-recreating-road-trip
>
> I liked their answer - mostly.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 3:50 AM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
>
> I just had to forward this post that came in on the Triumph Roadster list.
>
> It does indeed make one feel old :)
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:27 AM
> Subject: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
> To: TRM1946-49@googlegroups.com
>
>
> **
> I just received this from a friend....................
>
>
> About an hour ago I drove through the car park of the Gleneagles Hotel and
> came across two young guys studying a map on the boot lid of an immaculate
> 1974 (N) TR6 with and open top.
>
> It transpired that the two guys in their early 30s had hired it for the 
> day
> and were planning a trip in the Perthshire hills. As the conversation
> progressed they made the following comments.
>
> It is very stiff to steer
>
> It has a choke and I dont even know what a choke is or what it does
>
> It seems to have an overdrive .What IS that?
>
> The brakes arent very effective.
>
> Weve only driven 20 miles and my leg is sore as the clutch is stiff to
> press. Do you think theres something wrong with it?
>
> Having given some explanations about 1970s technology and advice on a
> possible route I left feeling very old and with a clear vision of the
> generation gap
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 19:21:20 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <639825097.1596462.1379430946929.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 20:18:31 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The other generational gap thing, surprised they were looking at a paper 
map, probably trying to figure out how to use it.  Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<0066809CBB4F493EA35D5512FD87818A@livingroompc>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 18:32:35 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We live in a remote area with no cell service and a couple of 20somethings
who had car trouble asked to use our phone.  It's a rotary (dial) phone.

The young woman picked up the receiver correctly and extended her index
finger -- and then she was stumped.  She had probably seen someone do this
in an old movie but she wasn't really sure where the finger went or what
you did when it got there.

Yeah, amusing but also a grim reminder.

Geo


On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:18 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> The other generational gap thing, surprised they were looking at a paper
> map, probably trying to figure out how to use it.  Greg Lemon
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 20:32:44 -0500
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Idle Problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

TeriAnn,

Checked the pressure,  5 psi, so changed out the pump and all seems normal
again.  Had a small leak around the rod , but it must be around the bushing as
the rod is fitted with double o-ring's on both sides.

Thanks,
Bill
Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2013, at 3:23 PM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
wrote:

> On 9/17/13 12:18 PM, bill_beecher@flash.net wrote:
>> Have just spent 1/2 the day trying to resolve the idle, or lack thereof,
on
>> the TR3B project.  Engine is in the chassis only as the body is still off
at
>> the painter.  Carbs freshly re-built, new electric fuel pump installed,
>> timing set, vacuum line attached and advance checked and working.
>> Starts and runs great, but will not idle down below around 1500 RPM.
After
>> that it will just start to slowly stumble then die.  Always starts right
>> back up.  I have adjusted the jets 1-2 & 3 flats each way with no
>> discernable difference.
>> What else should I check?
> Check the fuel pressure.  A lot of electric pumps produce a pressure that
will overcome the SU float valve.  You want the pressure to be about 2-1/2 to
3 lbs.
>
> The common 7 PSI pumps tend not to work well with SUs or Webbers
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 05:41:28 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 07:40:42 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
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Yes, but pricey.  I can see spending what they want on brake lines but 
their fuel lines are about as much as the brake lines and I can't see why.

Dave

In a message dated 9/17/2013 6:32:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes: 
> They are also great for the hard gas lines for the tr3 (the ones under 
> the
> hood)
> C
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 6:41 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] brake lines
> 
> If you are looking for SS hard line I recommend Classic Tube
> http://www.classictube.com/
> 
> I put a set in my car and they mostly fit.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 17:11:53 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "bkahler1@gmail.com" <bkahler1@gmail.com>, "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Doesn't say much for the rental company that released the car without giving
the hirers a brief instruction course. Usual British attitude of grab the
money and let the customer go hang - or being Scotland, perhaps the renter was
too paralytic to talk?


Jonmac

PS And I'm Scots too :)

From:
"pethier@comcast.net" <pethier@comcast.net>
>To: bkahler1@gmail.com;
Triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Tuesday, 17 September 2013, 16:15
>Subject:
Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
>
>
>You needed to take the wheel
and give them rides in it to show them the ropes. 
>
>
>
>Original
Message===================
>
>I just had to forward this post that came in on
the Triumph Roadster list.
>
>It does indeed make one feel old :)
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:27 AM
>Subject: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
>To: TRM1946-49@googlegroups.com
>
>
>**
>I just received this from a friend....................
>
>
>About an hour
ago I drove through the car park of the Gleneagles Hotel and
>came across two
young guys studying a map on the boot lid of an immaculate
>1974 (N) TR6 with
and open top.
>
>It transpired that the two guys in their early 30s had hired
it for the day
>and were planning a trip in the Perthshire hills. As the
conversation
>progressed they made the following comments.
>
>It is very stiff
to steer
>
>It has a choke and I dont even know what a choke is or what it
does
>
>It seems to have an overdrive .What IS that?
>
>The brakes arent very
effective.
>
>Weve only driven 20 miles and my leg is sore as the clutch is
stiff to
>press. Do you think theres something wrong with it?
>
>Having given
some explanations about 1970s technology and advice on a
>possible route I
left feeling very old and with a clear vision of the
>generation gap
>
>**
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net
>
>**
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 15:05:12 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'John Macartney'" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>,
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <639825097.1596462.1379430946929.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1379520713.34721.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 17:00:13 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJthBwRdfzzRc0JmFVVAh5mblkT+QINuQ2/mH3s8UA=
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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap
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Being Irish, having gone to University in Scotland, and with an English
mother, I think I am qualified to weigh in here on the subject of Brits and
religion (well, alcohol is a religion to many):

The Scots keep the sabbath, and anything else they can get their hands on
The Welsh pray on their knees, and on their neighbor(u)rs
The Irish don't know what to believe in, but are prepared to die for it
And the English are a nation of self-made men, thus relieving the almighty
of an onerous responsibility

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 12:12 PM
To: bkahler1@gmail.com; Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [TRM 1946-49] Generation gap

Doesn't say much for the rental company that released the car without giving
the hirers a brief instruction course. Usual British attitude of grab the
money and let the customer go hang - or being Scotland, perhaps the renter
was too paralytic to talk?


Jonmac

PS And I'm Scots too :)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 19:19:21 2013
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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 21:18:48 -0400
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
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Beware the French Blue 74 TR6 on eBay located in Wilmington, NC

I spoke to a gentleman this morning who has seen the car and says it has bad
frame rust where the trailing arms attach. The seller knows this and does not
disclose it in the listing. Seller has not responded to my question "Do you
have any pictures of the trailing arm to frame attachment areas?" Which I sent
him about 10 hours ago.

Could somebody post this on the 6-Pack Forum?

Thanks,
Jack Mc

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 19:46:01 2013
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References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 18:45:36 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for posting the warning.

"selling this car for a friend..."  is usually a red flag for me.

Geo


On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 6:18 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:

> Beware the French Blue 74 TR6 on eBay located in Wilmington, NC
>
> I spoke to a gentleman this morning who has seen the car and says it has
> bad
> frame rust where the trailing arms attach. The seller knows this and does
> not
> disclose it in the listing. Seller has not responded to my question "Do you
> have any pictures of the trailing arm to frame attachment areas?" Which I
> sent
> him about 10 hours ago.
>
> Could somebody post this on the 6-Pack Forum?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 20:27:18 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 02:21:10 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
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Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Kastner Cup weekend at Road America
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

"Real soon now" has come.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157635477714201/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: pethier@comcast.net
> To: "marty sukey" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
> Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 11:42:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Kastner Cup weekend at Road America
> I'll be releasing some stills "real soon now". This working 40 hours a
> week is getting in the way of my play time!
> 
> The concour is is up already:
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157635478068173/with/9695776137/
> 
> 
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "marty sukey" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 9:02:21 PM
> > Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup weekend at Road America
> > http://youtu.be/bVcq5awD2o0
> >
> > Above is a couple of laps of in-car video from the group 2 feature
> > from Road
> > America last Sunday in a Spitfire.
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 20:45:50 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 21:39:15 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

what's the listing #?  I just looked for it.  we can all hammer the guy with 
questions about rust and the frame

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jack Mc
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 8:18 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor

Beware the French Blue 74 TR6 on eBay located in Wilmington, NC

I spoke to a gentleman this morning who has seen the car and says it has bad
frame rust where the trailing arms attach. The seller knows this and does 
not
disclose it in the listing. Seller has not responded to my question "Do you
have any pictures of the trailing arm to frame attachment areas?" Which I 
sent
him about 10 hours ago.

Could somebody post this on the 6-Pack Forum?

Thanks,
Jack Mc 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 20:49:31 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com>
	<2890F9035E16453F9BEA85857417F06C@Datsun>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 22:49:02 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have the listing number........ I've searched and can't find 
it....yet.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 10:39 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor

what's the listing #?  I just looked for it.  we can all hammer the guy with
questions about rust and the frame

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jack Mc
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 8:18 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor

Beware the French Blue 74 TR6 on eBay located in Wilmington, NC

I spoke to a gentleman this morning who has seen the car and says it has bad
frame rust where the trailing arms attach. The seller knows this and does
not
disclose it in the listing. Seller has not responded to my question "Do you
have any pictures of the trailing arm to frame attachment areas?" Which I
sent
him about 10 hours ago.

Could somebody post this on the 6-Pack Forum?

Thanks,
Jack Mc

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com>
	<2890F9035E16453F9BEA85857417F06C@Datsun>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 19:54:48 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> what's the listing #?


300967966617<http://www.ebay.com/itm/300967966617?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_579wt_1255>

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 06:08:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Static Timing TR6/Timing Marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am putting a Pertronix in a TR6 that has been off the road for almost
30 years. I am still waking the car up. I want to static time the car. Looking
at the timing marks I see a big mark (groove in pulley) and a small mark about
a quarter inch to the left of it (looking from the front). I take it that the
big mark is TDC and the small mark is the static timing mark? I have it lined
up with the timing pointer with valves 1 & 2 closed. I think that I can back
the distributor off clockwise and with a test light turn it counterclockwise
until the light comes on and that will be good initial timing. Is this
correct?
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 19:27:06 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com><2890F9035E16453F9BEA85857417F06C@Datsun>
	<CANzE1bHUffnzFo-j_qQOuv-hpW2SCEomPuXPW1-ZC+vgq4kZag@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 14:11:08 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just asked him if there was any rust on the car or the frame and for
pictures from the bottom.

mighty suspicious all the pictures are top side!

From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 9:54 PM
To: Dave
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor

On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

  what's the listing #?

300967966617

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 19:33:03 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 13:48:39 -0700
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1379623720;
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	ofn675JuBUIjg==
Subject: [TR] Urgent Help Please
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain Tube.
Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page 68
of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box drain.

Thanks for your time

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 19:33:38 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 17:09:30 -0400
From: Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Thread-index: Ac61fIf7z043QYifR4WmJLU56ZcxFg==
Subject: [TR] TR6 differential noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,
Is anyone familiar with the sound of a bad bearing in the differential?
There is oil in the unit, not sure how ol, but the noise is beyond curing
with fresh oil.
All the universals are snug, there is no play at all in them.
I can make it happen with the car running on stands at 1000 rpm in 4th gear
I don't have anywhere to post a video. I could forward a video if anyone has
a few minutes to hear it.
TRF has rebuilt units but I cannot justify cost for an occasional driver.
I am ready to chase down another differential............. there are some on
eBay.
Regards,
Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 20:58:36 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 19:25:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw: Other: 91mph sent a message about Triumph : TR-6 Base
 Convertible 2-Door #300967966617
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

this is the response when I asked the guy about rust on the car.

am I correct in thinking this is the car #300967966617 where the rear has
structurally damaging rust?

From: eBay Member: yellowlancer18
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2013 7:16 PM
To: dave@ranteer.com
Subject: Re: Other: 91mph sent a message about Triumph : TR-6 Base Convertible
2-Door #300967966617


           eBay sent this message to David Northrup (91mph).
            Your registered name is included to show this message originated
from eBay. Learn more.


     Seller has responded to your question about this item

     Do not respond to the sender if this message requests that you complete
the transaction outside of eBay. This type of offer is against eBay policy,
may be fraudulent, and is not covered by buyer protection programs. Learn More


      Dear 91mph,

      no rust spot that i am aware of and not lift to get under car need email
address


      - yellowlancer18 Click "respond" to reply through Messages, or go to
your email to reply






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: 91mph
To: yellowlancer18
Subject: Other: 91mph sent a message about Triumph : TR-6 Base Convertible
2-Door #300967966617
Sent Date: Sep-19-13 12:10:21 PDT


      Dear yellowlancer18,

      is there any rust on the car? frame? do you have any pictures of the
frame or from under the car


      - 91mph


     Triumph : TR-6 Base Convertible 2-Door
            Item Id: 300967966617
            End time: Sep-23-13 21:30:00 PDT
                  Seller:
           yellowlancer18 (26)
                  100.0% Positive Feedback
                  Member since Jul-10-07 in United States
                  Location: NC, United States

            Listing Status: This message was sent while the listing was
active.




     Marketplace Safety Tip
        a.. Keep your money safe - never pay for items with cash or instant
money transfer services, such as Western Union or MoneyGram. In the past some
sellers have exploited these payment methods in order to defraud buyers, so
eBay has banned them from the site.
        b.. Received a Second Chance Offer email? Double check that it's
genuine: Second Chance Offer emails come directly from eBay and are shown in
your My Messages.
        c.. Trade safely. Beware of anyone who contacts you about buying or
selling outside of eBay. When you trade outside of eBay, you're not able to
leave feedback or take advantage of protection programs and case resolution
tools available on eBay. Report an inappropriate email.
        d.. eBay helps guard your privacy and online safety when you use our
messaging tools. If you and the member you're contacting haven't bought or
sold from each other recently, our tools may make both of your email addresses
anonymous.





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
      Email reference id: [#0fe45658cb02452b893b0a93888bc680#]
      Please don't remove this number. eBay customer support may ask you for
this number, if you should need assistance.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
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      Copyright B) 2013 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks
and brands are the property of their respective owners. eBay and the eBay logo
are trademarks of eBay Inc. eBay Inc. is located at 2145 Hamilton Avenue, San
Jose, CA 95125.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 21:00:51 2013
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References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com>
From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 20:35:40 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1379637339;
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33c5523b985b23d0
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Update:

Seller responded to my question: "no clue what you're asking, not a car guy"

In the meantime, the gentleman who has seen the car, saw the eBay listing and
says the description makes it sound like a fresh restoration - it's not - the
restoration was done 10 years ago. He also thinks the seller should have
disclosed that there is some kind of sound deadening glued to the floor so you
can't get a look at the floors under the carpet.

Normally, I'm content to just warn people about stuff like this, but I'm
beginning to think this seller richly deserves some harassment.
I'm going to rephrase my question for him: "okay, didn't someone who looked at
the car tell you and show you that it had serious rust where the trailing arm
brackets mount to the frame? And didn't he get a worst case estimate of $1,800
a side to fix the damage and inform you of that? And don't you think you
should disclose that to avoid negative feedback from a buyer?"
Everybody feel free to copy and paste the same question.

Cheers,
Jack Mc


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 18, 2013, at 9:18 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Beware the French Blue 74 TR6 on eBay located in Wilmington, NC
>
> I spoke to a gentleman this morning who has seen the car and says it has
bad
> frame rust where the trailing arms attach. The seller knows this and does
not
> disclose it in the listing. Seller has not responded to my question "Do you
> have any pictures of the trailing arm to frame attachment areas?" Which I
sent
> him about 10 hours ago.
>
> Could somebody post this on the 6-Pack Forum?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 21:03:08 2013
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	<2890F9035E16453F9BEA85857417F06C@Datsun>
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 21:32:17 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> What's up with the rear?  That stance reminds me of a buddy's Maverick in
> High School...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 22:07:31 2013
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 20:41:54 -0500
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On my '58 the tube routes out the firewall through the RHD steering column
blanking plate, the rubber seal seems to be made for this purpose.

Pictures off line on request.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 19, 2013, at 3:48 PM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain Tube.
> Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.
>
> Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page
68
> of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box
drain.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007@comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 22:10:31 2013
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References: <F9459163-95A0-4476-864C-03B18CE4E155@comcast.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 20:56:02 -0500
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Forgot to mention the excellent diagram on TeriAnn's site:
http://www.tr3a.info/Bulkhead.htm

I would place the hole at her unidentified item #22

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 19, 2013, at 3:48 PM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain Tube.
> Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.
>
> Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page
68
> of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box
drain.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007@comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 22:11:05 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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	(205.188.17.51) with HTTP (WebMailUI); Thu, 19 Sep 2013 22:12:53 -0400
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 22:12:53 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 You have a choice.  You can connect it to the drain tube in the battery box
or you cna connect it to the drain for the little catch tray just under the
scuttle vent.  Or you can do like I did and tee the two together.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>


We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain Tube.
Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page 68
of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box drain.

Thanks for your time

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 22:11:36 2013
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  (PDT)
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 19:15:31 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill --

Scroll down on this thread for an explanation and a useful pic:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?91951-Help&highlight=drain+tube

Geo


On Thu, Sep 19, 2013 at 1:48 PM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:

> We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain Tube.
> Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.
>
> Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page
> 68
> of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box
> drain.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p  ;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007@comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 22:12:10 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <114A84AC-07FD-4F39-8D06-48A30F974AC8@aol.com><2890F9035E16453F9BEA85857417F06C@Datsun><CANzE1bHUffnzFo-j_qQOuv-hpW2SCEomPuXPW1-ZC+vgq4kZag@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 22:36:24 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I asked him about the condition of the frame and TA mount points........... 
no response 24 hours later.

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2013 3:11 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor

I just asked him if there was any rust on the car or the frame and for
pictures from the bottom.

mighty suspicious all the pictures are top side!

From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 9:54 PM
To: Dave
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] eBay TR6 Caveat Emptor

On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

  what's the listing #?

300967966617

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 23:19:15 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'William Pugh'" <anabil007@comcast.net>, "'TR3/6'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F9459163-95A0-4476-864C-03B18CE4E155@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 00:01:36 -0400
Thread-index: AQHsJojniwSSDoh/qClu2dyK7JQbLpmTHh7A
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Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

there is a connection on the firewall side vent box to left of center (from
inside of car)    about an inch from center.   you should be able to see the
recess trough that leads to the tube like connection.

i will send a picture separate from this email.
Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2013 4:49 PM
To: TR3/6
Subject: [TR] Urgent Help Please

We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain Tube.
Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page 68
of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box drain.

Thanks for your time

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 00:22:46 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 22:16:30 -0700
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Vent tube help
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks folks, found the "hole" in the right hand blank as shown.

Great list 

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 04:45:33 2013
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 10:33:58 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Back down the years - a must-have for me (and you?)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I've just received a belated birthday present and I'm so 'chuffed' to have it
that I wanted to share it with all of you. I must say at the very outset this
isn't a sales pitch in which I would benefit in any way but yes, it is a sales
pitch all the same.
Triumph Sports Six Club in the UK (probably the largest of
Standard-Triumph clubs anywhere) has recently released a double CD box set of
the 'Standard Car Review' magazine. This was a factory publication issued
monthly for dealers, importers and English speaking customers the world over
and there's a raft of stuff in each copy from the world over as well.
I've just spent a delightful hour flicking through just two editions and I'm
both enthralled and delighted by the adverts, articles and pictures of things
Standard and Triumph cars did with their owners. So many of the pictures show
scenes that have effectively vanished from today's landscape - and there's
plenty of stuff in there for US and Canadian enthusiasts. In fact the first
two issues from 1959 naturally cover the period when the TR3 was in production
and there's no mention of Heralds at as the dates pre-date its release.
The
CD's cover the period from 1959 to 1968 and each magazine, issued every month
during that period, is a .pdf file at two pages to view, so you can zoom on to
anything you want to examine and study in detail. Believe me, you won't get
closer to how things were in those days about and around the products of those
times than by reading these files - and it's far more interesting than reading
a parts book!
Getting one of these CD sets won't break anyone's bank balance
as TSSC are selling them for only GBP10 (US$15 approx.) plus P&P and as
Christmas isn't too far away...............? 
If you want a copy, I'd
recommend you email  info@tssc.org.uk who can pass your enquiry to the Club
Shop (I don't have its email address) or you can fax them at: +44 1858 431936
As I said at the start, absolutely NFI as far as I'm concerned, just a
delighted reader for whom these magazines have brought back many happy
memories of cars, people, places and times past in which I was so fortunate to
share before it all vanished for ever.
Recommended without hesitation
- to every enthusiast of these amazing (and sometimes infuriating) cars
Jonmac

PS I'm also sending this as a Bcc to many of my own email contacts but
I think it would be great if all of you (as recipients) could pass this post
on to your respective club newsletter editors so they can further spread the
word to those who aren't on this list.
I'll shut up now 'cos there's lots more
to read :)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 06:53:32 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 07:27:20 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Are we talking about the source connection or the destination?  There is a 
hole in the transmission cover that I used for the drain.

Dave

In a message dated 9/19/2013 11:06:10 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> On my '58 the tube routes out the firewall through the RHD steering 
> column
> blanking plate, the rubber seal seems to be made for this purpose.
> 
> Pictures off line on request.
> 
> Bill
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> >On Sep 19, 2013, at 3:48 PM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain 
> Tube.
> >Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.
> >
> >Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page
> 68
> >of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box
> drain.

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From: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 08:18:13 -0500
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Urgent Help Please
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The destination is the hole in the firewall, source is the scuttle vent.

The hole on the trans cover is for the battery box drain.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 20, 2013, at 6:27 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:
>
> Are we talking about the source connection or the destination?  There is a
> hole in the transmission cover that I used for the drain.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 9/19/2013 11:06:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
> wbeech@flash.net writes:
>> On my '58 the tube routes out the firewall through the RHD steering
>> column
>> blanking plate, the rubber seal seems to be made for this purpose.
>>
>> Pictures off line on request.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Sep 19, 2013, at 3:48 PM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> We are installing new carpet in the TR3, and we found the Vent Drain
>> Tube.
>>> Not attached to anything, and we can not find a hole to attach it to.
>>>
>>> Any ideas greatly appreciated.   BTW it is Moss Part number 680-835, page
>> 68
>>> of the Moss catalog.  My Red TR2/3 ignores it, only shows battery box
>> drain.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 08:03:54 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 differential noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've posted a Video from Bob here:   http://youtu.be/ybkxG883tbo



On Thu, Sep 19, 2013 at 5:09 PM, Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net> wrote:

> Hello List,
> Is anyone familiar with the sound of a bad bearing in the differential?
> There is oil in the unit, not sure how ol, but the noise is beyond curing
> with fresh oil.
> All the universals are snug, there is no play at all in them.
> I can make it happen with the car running on stands at 1000 rpm in 4th gear
> I don't have anywhere to post a video. I could forward a video if anyone
> has
> a few minutes to hear it.
> TRF has rebuilt units but I cannot justify cost for an occasional driver.
> I am ready to chase down another differential............. there are some
> on
> eBay.
> Regards,
> Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 13:35:10 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 12:03:25 -0600
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
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Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 differential noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 9/21/2013 6:03 AM, Chris Simo wrote:
> I've posted a Video from Bob here:   http://youtu.be/ybkxG883tbo
>
>
>
>

That certainly doesn't sound like a bearing to me--a bearing should be 
grumbly and growly when going bad. The knocking sounds like a u-joint, 
either going bad or operating at too extreme an angle. Since the car is 
on jackstands, it may be that the rear suspension droop is enough to 
bind the joint a little, or the splines in the halfshafts are extended 
enough to cause a little sticking and binding.  Either condition could 
be caused, on jackstands, by rear bushings that are getting a bit 
sloppy, and/or worn diff mounts, so that the diff assembly is being 
jacked around by torque.

But, no, it definitely does not sound like bearings. Even a broken crown 
wheel tooth would be a lot more regular than that. The intermittent 
nature of the noise suggests to me something bouncing up and down 
irregularly, relieving stress in one direction and increasing it in the 
opposite direction.  If you're _sure_ the u-joints are good (a bad 
joint, with the needle bearings gone, can lock pretty firmly in one 
position and not seem loose when checked by hand, but will still make 
lots of noise under changing loads), I'd be looking at the fit of the 
halfshaft pieces.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 16:56:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 14:45:57 -0700
Thread-index: Ac624X2r+UZu2XVuSruG6LRLp+SRWQAMUrnA
Subject: Re: [TR] Paint question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a 1971 PPG listing that shows code 4540, mixed as 74 parts 9923, 21 parts 9915, 2 parts 9901 and 2 parts 9900.

Also a Ditzler code 50816 for 69-71.  And DuPont 8511 for 1979.

But most likely those codes aren't going to help.  The old paint formulations have been outlawed in the US (due to pollution
concerns) and there aren't exact matches with the modern formulations.  Or so I'm told anyway.

Randall


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net 
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
> Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 8:46 AM
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Paint question
> 
> Sorry to bomb the list, but does anyone have a paint code for 
> Damson red?
> All I have is "Triumph Damson 17".  Thanks!
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver@ca.rr.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 17:56:58 2013
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To: ccsimonsen@gmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 differential noise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like you've lost a tooth or two.  Call Goode Parts and order up a
Nissan diff to replace it.

Seriously, I think you've broken a tooth in the diff.  Do not drive this car
if you value your life.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 21, 2013 12:43 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 differential noise


I've posted a Video from Bob here:   http://youtu.be/ybkxG883tbo



On Thu, Sep 19, 2013 at 5:09 PM, Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net> wrote:

> Hello List,
> Is anyone familiar with the sound of a bad bearing in the differential?
> There is oil in the unit, not sure how ol, but the noise is beyond curing
> with fresh oil.
> All the universals are snug, there is no play at all in them.
> I can make it happen with the car running on stands at 1000 rpm in 4th gear
> I don't have anywhere to post a video. I could forward a video if anyone
> has
> a few minutes to hear it.
> TRF has rebuilt units but I cannot justify cost for an occasional driver.
> I am ready to chase down another differential............. there are some
> on
> eBay.
> Regards,
> Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 19:30:56 2013
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From: Robert Jones <rjones@wfeca.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 19:46:51 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-09-21_02:2013-09-20,2013-09-21,1970-01-01
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone know what type of black the oil cap on the TR3 valve cover was
originally?  I'm thinking either satin or semi-gloss.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 21:20:25 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000001ceb6e1$9e105390$da30fab0$@uprichard.net>
	<08.D8.21526.F831E325@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 23:19:24 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Paint question
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Randall:  you are amazing !

My wife wants to know will the tigers win the World Series this year?

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
Married to a Tigers fan.....

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 5:46 PM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Paint question

I've got a 1971 PPG listing that shows code 4540, mixed as 74 parts 9923, 21
parts 9915, 2 parts 9901 and 2 parts 9900.

Also a Ditzler code 50816 for 69-71.  And DuPont 8511 for 1979.

But most likely those codes aren't going to help.  The old paint
formulations have been outlawed in the US (due to pollution
concerns) and there aren't exact matches with the modern formulations.  Or
so I'm told anyway.

Randall


> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net 
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
> Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 8:46 AM
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Paint question
> 
> Sorry to bomb the list, but does anyone have a paint code for Damson 
> red?
> All I have is "Triumph Damson 17".  Thanks!
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver@ca.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 21:52:17 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Robert Jones'" <rjones@wfeca.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F5C92249-A9A0-4D14-95C0-3475B069B62C@wfeca.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 23:44:49 -0400
Thread-index: AQF3YHaZUMUMxko47HUeP7M3feByApp/ykiA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>From Triumph Register Judging Guide:
The early and late caps are similar in appearance. Both are domed with mesh
breather filters in the bottom. The
early cap has a flat top profile; the late cap profile has 3 thumb grips,
and a round, domed, profile. Early caps are
black. Late caps are found painted black or hammer-tone (specific color
unknown) gray.
Decal. A decal is fitted to the oil filler cap tops. Two basic styles of
decals are used. The early decal is divided in
a pattern of concentric circles. Later a pie pattern decal was used. The
following variations are known:
TR2/3 -- Large concentric circle decal, black with white markings.
TR3A -- Large pie-pattern decal, black with white markings.
TR3A -- Little concentric circle decal, black with white markings fits caps
with thumb-holes.
TR3A/3B -- Little pie-pattern decal fits the caps with thumb-holes.
TR3B -- Little pie-pattern decal, Red with white markings (only observed on
some TR3Bs with
hammertone caps).

Which really doesn't answer your question...  I'd say whatever you feel
comfortable with...
Carl



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Jones
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 8:47 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Cap

Does anyone know what type of black the oil cap on the TR3 valve cover was
originally?  I'm thinking either satin or semi-gloss.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 07:46:05 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Non-running TR3B for sale in Saint Louis area by long-term
 owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A retired university professor here in the Saint Louis area has owned a
powder blue 1962 TR3B (TCF56L) since 1966.  Car hasn't run since electrical
problems sidelined it circa 1977 with around 100k miles, but it's been
garaged since then.  It had a badly-repaired right side rocker panel once
upon a time that has continued to corrode, and that's the only significant
rust I noted. Reportedly some minor front and rear end collision work
earlier in life.  Few modifications done by the current owner, although the
first owner had interesting taste in accessories.  The car is almost as
bought in '66.

The project to get it running is now more than they're willing to tackle,
so they'd like to find a good next home for the car.  They have a couple of
interested parties from various corners of the country but are open to any
offers.  Feel free to send me any notes and I'll forward to Allan and Sandy
to put people in touch.

Here's a link to a slideshow of 130 images taken in early September.  (A
bit esoteric, I'll admit, but they were taken for my personal TR3B
"originality" file, not to sell the car!)
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=31704017&AlbumKey=L7MT4W

Don

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 06:48:55 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-running TR3B for sale in Saint Louis area by long-term
 owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What a lot of potential there to be a great driver (or the basis of a
restoration).  I do not think I have ever seen that rear bumper before (and
will be just as happy not to see it again) but it is a remarkable accessory.

Geo


On Sun, Sep 22, 2013 at 5:46 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> A retired university professor here in the Saint Louis area has owned a
> powder blue 1962 TR3B (TCF56L) since 1966.  Car hasn't run since electrical
> problems sidelined it circa 1977 with around 100k miles, but it's been
> garaged since then.  It had a badly-repaired right side rocker panel once
> upon a time that has continued to corrode, and that's the only significant
> rust I noted. Reportedly some minor front and rear end collision work
> earlier in life.  Few modifications done by the current owner, although the
> first owner had interesting taste in accessories.  The car is almost as
> bought in '66.
>
> The project to get it running is now more than they're willing to tackle,
> so they'd like to find a good next home for the car.  They have a couple of
> interested parties from various corners of the country but are open to any
> offers.  Feel free to send me any notes and I'll forward to Allan and Sandy
> to put people in touch.
>
> Here's a link to a slideshow of 130 images taken in early September.  (A
> bit esoteric, I'll admit, but they were taken for my personal TR3B
> "originality" file, not to sell the car!)
>
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=31704017&AlbumKey=L7MT4W
>
> Don
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 08:08:19 2013
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	2013 09:55:00 -0400
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 10:00:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just have to figure out why my instrument lights aren't working and I will
have all my electrical issues resolved. I can't believe it but I am about
ready to get license plates so I can start driving it! Still need to finish
the interior and get a new top but I can at least start driving it.
I do have one question maybe someone can help me with. What thread size is the
3 little screws that hold the scuttle vent to the cowl? I have lost the
originals. I am pretty sure it is a machine thread and not a self tapping.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 09:59:06 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 11:41:42 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1993 Summer Party Video
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My lovely bride bought me a British Car Show video a few years ago.  It was
supposed to have a video of some 600+ cars, etc.

I finally got the DVD player hooked up in the garage and went to watch it.
 What I found was a fairly poor copy of a low budget video made during the
1993 TRF summer party.    And I happened to have attended it!!!    Even
better.

Only disapointed it was not a higher quality video - the rest was great.

Just wanted to share.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 10:31:46 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 12:09:51 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

How timely - I just removed my vent cowl from the TR4.   I wish I had the
name of the engineer that designed that -  I would his name in my book of
shame!!!

10-32 x 1/2 --  shorter is probably better --  I used stainless since they
were so hard to get out the first time -- some 15 years later I'm having to
replace the vent due to rust.  Took a good half hour to remove those 3
screws!!!!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 11:30:39 2013
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	<CANhzkeMuNvoySw_=8BDLh4EKTsvvMzHwcS0j4FnjDGVwsvyZoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 10:03:16 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You'll probably want to do a trial fit to assure the back edge of the
bonnet clears / does not bind on the front edge of the flap.

As I recall I had to oval the holes just a bit to get a fit I liked.

Geo


On Sun, Sep 22, 2013 at 9:09 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> How timely - I just removed my vent cowl from the TR4.   I wish I had the
> name of the engineer that designed that -  I would his name in my book of
> shame!!!
>
> 10-32 x 1/2 --  shorter is probably better --  I used stainless since they
> were so hard to get out the first time -- some 15 years later I'm having to
> replace the vent due to rust.  Took a good half hour to remove those 3
> screws!!!!
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 12:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] triumph/british related reading
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've recently become interested in the old rallys/endurance races in Europe
during the 50's and 60's, such as the mille miglia.....dakar......monte
carlo......ect.  Are there any good books written about those races, possibly
first person accounts, that anyone has read or are aware of?  Would not have
to be specifically triumph or british.

I'm thinking ahead to the non driving
winter time here in Iowa and love reading what the "old guys" from years ago
went through in these events.

thanks!

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 05:57:02 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 07:28:04 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] 1993 Summer Party Video
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Who did she get it from?  Her PI?

;-)

Just kidding.

Dave

In a message dated 9/22/2013 10:58:13 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ccsimonsen@gmail.com writes: 
> My lovely bride bought me a British Car Show video a few years ago.  It 
> was
> supposed to have a video of some 600+ cars, etc.
> 
> I finally got the DVD player hooked up in the garage and went to watch it.
> What I found was a fairly poor copy of a low budget video made during the
> 1993 TRF summer party.    And I happened to have attended it!!!    Even
> better.
> 
> Only disapointed it was not a higher quality video - the rest was great.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: "'TR3/6'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 12:34:34 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac64gx4WdNafZanAR6GFpA8ZmpopyQ==
Subject: [TR] Smith Instruments
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Out searching for gauges for the 3B and ran across this interesting bit of
history in the form of an article in Hemmings last year.
 
http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2012/06/01/hmn_feature18.html
 
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"

"Keep Calm and Carry On"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 12:46:09 2013
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References: <EFE1B43772A94431A1C3C28C5A1C3A49@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 19:14:53 +0100
From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: bill_beecher@flash.net
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Smith Instruments
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks so much for that really interesting article on Smiths Industries.

Little snippets like this are so informative.

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK




On 23 September 2013 18:34, <bill_beecher@flash.net> wrote:

> Out searching for gauges for the 3B and ran across this interesting bit of
> history in the form of an article in Hemmings last year.
>
> http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2012/06/01/hmn_feature18.html
>
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
>  <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
>
> "Keep Calm and Carry On"
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: "'TR3/6'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 14:02:51 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac64j3DuQ8JUkEOlRWS1tKwnj/6pJA==
Subject: [TR] APT Instrument repairs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone ever had any dealings with APT Instruments?  Ran across their web
site while poking around for replacement gauges, never heard of them before.
 
http://www.gaugeguys.com/s <http://www.gaugeguys.com/s&h.htm> &h.htm
 
 
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 13:43:54 2013
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From: David Griffiths <daveg@online.no>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 21:18:06 +0200
To: Triumph_send_message <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Herald covered 20 miles in 52 years
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>From BBC news:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-norfolk-24204080

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 14:26:25 2013
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 15:58:49 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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CC: Triumph_send_message <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D38F0A02-9FBC-4C4E-82C9-3B384D3B639A@online.no>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Herald covered 20 miles in 52 years
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Heck I drove my 6 that many miles the other day just to drop by the hot 
dog stand for lunch.

Talk about NOS.

Bob

  On 09/23/2013 03:18 PM, David Griffiths wrote:
> >From BBC news:
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-norfolk-24204080
>
> Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <D67956E577EE400495AF20D75B20CFC6@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 16:12:41 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: bill_beecher@flash.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: 'TR3/6' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] APT Instrument repairs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, this is a local business for me. From the outside, their shop is not
impressive. It's the guys on the inside who will impress you with their
work. They are also an authorized Smith distributor.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Anyone ever had any dealings with APT Instruments?  Ran across their web
> site while poking around for replacement gauges, never heard of them
> before.
>
> http://www.gaugeguys.com/s <http://www.gaugeguys.com/s&h.htm> &h.htm
>
>
> Bill
>
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
>  <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Keep Calm and Carry On
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 14:43:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 20:22:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: bill_beecher@flash.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] APT Instrument repairs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Many years ago.  First-rate outfit in Bloomington Minnesota. They gutted my inoperative Lotus Europa rev counter and put in new electronic stuff. Cleaned and reassembled it looked like a brand new stock unit.  Made the speedo look a little shabby by comparison.   Unlike the stocker this one was warranted to be accurate. 



Original Message===================

Anyone ever had any dealings with APT Instruments?  Ran across their web
site while poking around for replacement gauges, never heard of them before.
 
http://www.gaugeguys.com/s <http://www.gaugeguys.com/s&h.htm> &h.htm
 
 
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 19:29:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Getting close on the TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I figured out how to post videos on YouTube and have one of a walk around the
car and one of the engine running.
Just do a search on DAVESTR4A. They aren't very long but you can see the car.
I have a overheating problem that I think is related to a air bubble in the
thermostat housing?
First symptom is that the temperature gauge doesn't work and the fuel gauge
does.
Second symptom is that the top radiator hose expanded about 50% larger before
things started leaking.
At first I thought the sending unit on the temp. gauge was bad because i
shorted the sending unit wire to ground and the gauge went full scale so I
ordered a new sensor.
After I ordered it, I got to thinking that maybe the entire thermostat housing
was all air inside so the thermostat never opens which forces the top hose
expansion.
Well, I tore one of the gaskets in the thermostat housing last night trying to
run without a thermostat and decided it would be a good time to quit. I know I
checked the thermostat before I installed it and it opened about 190 or so.
I couldn't get to it tonight but thought I would share my problem and see if
anybody agrees.
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 18:14:20 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <bill_beecher@flash.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D67956E577EE400495AF20D75B20CFC6@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 19:48:24 -0400
	z+5dkn6lmpi2amGmO/9XmIn8KKEuaBfwUE81R7solnMMd3jOLV
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	edolQEYPbIZy9cwxmmuQQvaNZhgA2gFFr9DyB9fcu
Subject: Re: [TR] APT Instrument repairs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Most of the guys in 6-Pack have been sending their gauges to Morris Mintz at 
West Valley Instruments (http://westvalleyinstruments.com/). Over the years 
I've had him refurbish and recalibrate my Speedo and Tach but his work goes 
all the way to re-facing gauges too. I've always loved Magnolia style gauges 
and this summer I had him (actually he has an artist who does the face work) 
re-face my speedo and tach in Magnolia...... he also converted the tach to 
electronic and the speedo to GPS. I can't believe how dead accurate the GPS 
speedo is.......... I've gone through those radar signs that show your speed 
and I've had my wife following me and it's spot on at all speeds. Morris 
also guarantees his work for 1 year........ and he delivers on time as 
promised.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: bill_beecher@flash.net
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 3:02 PM
To: 'TR3/6'
Subject: [TR] APT Instrument repairs

Anyone ever had any dealings with APT Instruments?  Ran across their web
site while poking around for replacement gauges, never heard of them before.

http://www.gaugeguys.com/s <http://www.gaugeguys.com/s&h.htm> &h.htm


Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 18:14:52 2013
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References: <C6DB5131D10E4AEDBFDFD62CBF3DF898@DaveLaptop>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 16:56:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Getting close on the TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave -

I always drill a little hole in the thermostat (some come that way) just to
be sure the system fills well.  But having said that, from your description
I would be more suspicious of the radiator cap than the thermostat.

More car parts places (even chains) have a loaner tester for the radiator
cap.

Geo



On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 4:29 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> I figured out how to post videos on YouTube and have one of a walk around
> the
> car and one of the engine running.
> Just do a search on DAVESTR4A. They aren't very long but you can see the
> car.
> I have a overheating problem that I think is related to a air bubble in the
> thermostat housing?
> First symptom is that the temperature gauge doesn't work and the fuel gauge
> does.
> Second symptom is that the top radiator hose expanded about 50% larger
> before
> things started leaking.
> At first I thought the sending unit on the temp. gauge was bad because i
> shorted the sending unit wire to ground and the gauge went full scale so I
> ordered a new sensor.
> After I ordered it, I got to thinking that maybe the entire thermostat
> housing
> was all air inside so the thermostat never opens which forces the top hose
> expansion.
> Well, I tore one of the gaskets in the thermostat housing last night
> trying to
> run without a thermostat and decided it would be a good time to quit. I
> know I
> checked the thermostat before I installed it and it opened about 190 or so.
> I couldn't get to it tonight but thought I would share my problem and see
> if
> anybody agrees.
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 23 18:15:20 2013
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	<CANzE1bGWEvkibFRfG5qwrV_mNFrTqLuCGCoz1CgNzbY4ZhuPJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 16:58:44 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Getting close on the TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here are some links to your vids:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDC6Ts2lZ6o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb5r9BwFWeM

Nice!

Geo


On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 4:56 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dave -
>
> I always drill a little hole in the thermostat (some come that way) just
> to be sure the system fills well.  But having said that, from your
> description I would be more suspicious of the radiator cap than the
> thermostat.
>
> More car parts places (even chains) have a loaner tester for the radiator
> cap.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 4:29 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:
>
>> I figured out how to post videos on YouTube and have one of a walk around
>> the
>> car and one of the engine running.
>> Just do a search on DAVESTR4A. They aren't very long but you can see the
>> car.
>> I have a overheating problem that I think is related to a air bubble in
>> the
>> thermostat housing?
>> First symptom is that the temperature gauge doesn't work and the fuel
>> gauge
>> does.
>> Second symptom is that the top radiator hose expanded about 50% larger
>> before
>> things started leaking.
>> At first I thought the sending unit on the temp. gauge was bad because i
>> shorted the sending unit wire to ground and the gauge went full scale so I
>> ordered a new sensor.
>> After I ordered it, I got to thinking that maybe the entire thermostat
>> housing
>> was all air inside so the thermostat never opens which forces the top hose
>> expansion.
>> Well, I tore one of the gaskets in the thermostat housing last night
>> trying to
>> run without a thermostat and decided it would be a good time to quit. I
>> know I
>> checked the thermostat before I installed it and it opened about 190 or
>> so.
>> I couldn't get to it tonight but thought I would share my problem and see
>> if
>> anybody agrees.
>> Dave Connitt
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D67956E577EE400495AF20D75B20CFC6@bboffice>
	<9C56B644A44F4F3B9040D30CD1B15964@BobDell>
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2013 20:00:32 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] APT Instrument repairs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

morris mintz is the best!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 6:48 PM
To: bill_beecher@flash.net ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] APT Instrument repairs

Most of the guys in 6-Pack have been sending their gauges to Morris Mintz at
West Valley Instruments (http://westvalleyinstruments.com/). Over the years
I've had him refurbish and recalibrate my Speedo and Tach but his work goes
all the way to re-facing gauges too. I've always loved Magnolia style gauges
and this summer I had him (actually he has an artist who does the face work)
re-face my speedo and tach in Magnolia...... he also converted the tach to
electronic and the speedo to GPS. I can't believe how dead accurate the GPS
speedo is.......... I've gone through those radar signs that show your speed
and I've had my wife following me and it's spot on at all speeds. Morris
also guarantees his work for 1 year........ and he delivers on time as
promised.

Bob 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 10:35:05 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: David Griffiths <daveg@online.no>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 10:02:49 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Herald covered 20 miles in 52 years
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Other than likely needing all new seals it's a beauty.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Sep 23, 2013, at 1:18 PM, David Griffiths wrote:

> From BBC news:
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-norfolk-24204080
>
> Dave
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 12:15:20 -0400
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Works TR3s at Goodwood Revival 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For those who might be interested the two works TR3s at this year's
Goodwood Revival, here's a slideshow of 38 photos taken last week.  SRW992
was car number 33 at the 1957 Sebring race, driven by Bob Oker and Ed
Pennybacker.   SHP520 was a 1957 Mille Miglia car.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=32061434&AlbumKey=trkL7S

There's obviously a ton that's been replaced and modified on these cars,
but enough remains to satisfy the British DVLA that they're entitled to the
original registration numbers.  No photos of them on the track during the
Fordwater Trophy race, alas.  The last three photos are of the cars
returning through the paddock post-race.

There's a lot of tiny detail that might be interesting to some, if a bit
esoteric.  Note the clever cutout switch on the Beige/Sunset Red car --
routed through the demister vents and clamped to the windscreen stanchion
plate in a fully-reversible mouting.

For anyone considering it, a trip to the Goodwood Revival is HIGHLY
recommended.  A simply amazing event.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List \(Triumph List\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 10:42:05 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR
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Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next week?

 

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<C8802254-3DE8-4811-923D-35EDE2CFAD2F@comcast.net>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 15:44:44 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Herald covered 20 miles in 52 years
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My TR2 went less than that in the 30 years after I started college.  We are
making up for lost time now!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 14:49:31 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <003d01ceb94d$62d464b0$287d2e10$@net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 9/24/13 10:42 AM, Kinderlehrer wrote:
> Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next week?
>
>
Not me.  The local accommodations were just too expensive for me to 
afford along with the entry fee & fuel to drive that distance. :(

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 17:12:48 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: kinderlehrer@comcast.net
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 16:21:25 -0600
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Cc: "Triumph List \(Triumph List\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Weather willing, I'll be there.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Sep 24, 2013, at 11:42 AM, Kinderlehrer wrote:

> Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next week?
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 15:27:46 -0700
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Works TR3s at Goodwood Revival 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I will heartily second going to Goodwood, it is simply amazing, you will never
regret going there.
and
I told folks that my TR3 was legal with door handles b& no one believed the
existence of the "Continental Kit".


On Sep 24, 2013, at 9:15 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> For those who might be interested the two works TR3s at this year's
> Goodwood Revival, here's a slideshow of 38 photos taken last week.  SRW992
> was car number 33 at the 1957 Sebring race, driven by Bob Oker and Ed
> Pennybacker.   SHP520 was a 1957 Mille Miglia car.
>
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=32061434&AlbumKey=trkL7S
>
> There's obviously a ton that's been replaced and modified on these cars,
> but enough remains to satisfy the British DVLA that they're entitled to the
> original registration numbers.  No photos of them on the track during the
> Fordwater Trophy race, alas.  The last three photos are of the cars
> returning through the paddock post-race.
>
> There's a lot of tiny detail that might be interesting to some, if a bit
> esoteric.  Note the clever cutout switch on the Beige/Sunset Red car --
> routed through the demister vents and clamped to the windscreen stanchion
> plate in a fully-reversible mouting.
>
> For anyone considering it, a trip to the Goodwood Revival is HIGHLY
> recommended.  A simply amazing event.
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <003d01ceb94d$62d464b0$287d2e10$@net>
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 15:47:24 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR
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I originally planned to go but family and medical issues are forcing me to
change the plan.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 2:50 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR

On 9/24/13 10:42 AM, Kinderlehrer wrote:
> Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next week?
>
>
Not me.  The local accommodations were just too expensive for me to 
afford along with the entry fee & fuel to drive that distance. :(

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 18:15:29 2013
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From: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 11:25:01 +1200
Subject: [TR] Leaking overdrives
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Hi!
Sometime back there was cure for fixing leaking "A" tpye.
Has someone made a STEEL ADAPTOR plate if so what is the address
Many thanks
Ashley

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 19:54:44 2013
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Hopefully, Pattie and I will be there. The engine parts come back from the
machinist tomorrow and I have the weekend to get it all together. Because
it'll be a fresh engine I'll be trailering it. 

Really look forward to going three laps around Inferion raceway on Sunday.

Johnnie

> 
> Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next week?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 21:31:19 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'ashleys'" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>, "''Triumphs''"
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 23:27:49 -0400
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Quantum Mechanics 
315 Riggs St. Bldg. A Unit 3
Oxford, Conn. 06478
Phone 203-463-8299
Fax 203-828-6039
www.quantumechanics.com  

the adapter plate is on the TR3 page - about 3/4 down the page.


Carl
1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ashleys
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 7:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Leaking overdrives

Hi!
Sometime back there was cure for fixing leaking "A" tpye.
Has someone made a STEEL ADAPTOR plate if so what is the address Many thanks
Ashley

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 23:49:39 2013
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I'll be visiting since I live just an hour away.. and focusing on the TR4s.
Carl


'63TR4 since '74



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-request <triumphs-request@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 24, 2013 11:45 am
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 343


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Today's Topics:

   1. Triumphest/VTR (Kinderlehrer)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 10:42:05 -0700
From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List \(Triumph List\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR

Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next week?



Bob


------------------------------

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End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 343
****************************************

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 23:57:16 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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> the adapter plate is on the TR3 page - about 3/4 down the page.

It's aluminum though, unless it has changed recently.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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We will be there, and our TR3 race car will be on display.
 
TR Regards,
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 9/24/2013 11:44:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
triumphs-request@autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List \(Triumph  List\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR]  Triumphest/VTR

Who is going to be at Triumphest/VTR in Marin next  week?



Bob

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 05:57:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Crank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Well shoot...
     I was conducting my daily historical reenactment of
Ken Richardson's Jabbeke run on my way to work on Tuesday when all hell broke
loose under the hood. As I was reaching for the key I could see oil pressure
falling. I had the engine off in seconds. No oil leaking, actually no new oil
leaking out of the block. The car went home on a flat bed tow truck. 
     Got
home from work last night, pulled the pan and found this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/9932678513/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/9932557605/in/photostream/

   
 Crank break just aft of #4 shear web at the rear main bearing.
     I didn't
find any metal in the pan and it looks like it didn't take anything else with
it. I guess that I am lucky.
     I have never taken the engine over 5,000
rpms and rarely go above 4500. I wonder what brought this on. Maybe I should
have had a harmonic balancer.
     I suppose that I am not the first guy to
have this happen to him. Are there any specific things I should be checking? I
was wondering if it might have damaged the #4 connecting rod or maybe the rear
bearing.
     Time for a tear down. Dang! I just about have my TR6 on the road
and just bought a Renown.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 25 07:44:52 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 09:39:16 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1380116356;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ouch.  

A friend told me she broke a crank on a TR4 and still drove it home.

I don't know what caused it but I've heard that even the factory cars had 
problems over 5,000.

The TR6 is happier at 5,000.

Dave

In a message dated 9/25/2013 7:57:50 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a@att.net writes: 
>      Well shoot...
>      I was conducting my daily historical reenactment of
> Ken Richardson's Jabbeke run on my way to work on Tuesday when all hell 
> broke
> loose under the hood. As I was reaching for the key I could see oil 
> pressure
> falling. I had the engine off in seconds. No oil leaking, actually no new 
> oil
> leaking out of the block. The car went home on a flat bed tow truck. 
>      Got
> home from work last night, pulled the pan and found this:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/9932678513/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/9932557605/in/photostream/
> 
>    
> Crank break just aft of #4 shear web at the rear main bearing.
>      I didn't
> find any metal in the pan and it looks like it didn't take anything else 
> with
> it. I guess that I am lucky.
>      I have never taken the engine over 5,000
> rpms and rarely go above 4500. I wonder what brought this on. Maybe I 
> should
> have had a harmonic balancer.
>      I suppose that I am not the first guy to
> have this happen to him. Are there any specific things I should be 
> checking? I
> was wondering if it might have damaged the #4 connecting rod or maybe the 
> rear
> bearing.
>      Time for a tear down. Dang! I just about have my TR6 on the road
> and just bought a Renown.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 25 08:02:04 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 10:00:33 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] I need a hotel room -- - Anyone with a spare room at Oct 5th
 show in Waynesboro, VA?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The Shenandoah Valley British Car Club puts on a really nice show --- it's
a beautiful time to be up in the mountains as well.

So far I think we have 2 ea. 250's and a TR4 heading up.

I took too long to reserve a room at the holiday in in Staunton, VA -- If
anyone decides to cancel their room -- please let me know and I'll take it.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 25 08:39:17 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 07:38:10 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <c4c95.5efded75.3f744184@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 9/25/13 6:39 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:
>
> I don't know what caused it but I've heard that even the factory cars had
> problems over 5,000.
>
>
The TR3/4 crank has a major harmonic around 5200 RPM that tends to break 
the crank at the base of the flywheel mounting flange.  There is a 
second major harmonic a little above 6200 RPM that tends to break the 
stock crank in the middle.  This is why the TR engine is factory 
redlined at 5000 RPM.  The harmonics can shift a little along the RPM 
spectrum if the crank, rods, pistons & flywheel are not balanced.

The aftermarket harmonic balancer sold the the TR engines tames the 5200 
RPM harmonic.  It requires going to a narrow fan belt & an electric fan.

My engine is balanced, has a nitrided stock crank and a harmonic 
balancer. It sees 6000 RPM under full acceleration.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 07:38:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I was only taching about 3,800 at the time. Rude surprise.

     -Bill
________________________________
 From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To:
William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 6:01
AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
 


Wow!  I've had a few broken cranks in the
wife's spitfire race car but they always broke on the main diameter of the
crank, never on one of the throws. 

What was the tach reading when it
happened?

Brad




On Wed, Sep 25, 2013 at 8:57 AM, William Brewer
<wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

     Well shoot...
>     I was conducting my
daily historical reenactment of
>Ken Richardson's Jabbeke run on my way to
work on Tuesday when all hell broke
>loose under the hood. As I was reaching
for the key I could see oil pressure
>falling. I had the engine off in
seconds. No oil leaking, actually no new oil
>leaking out of the block. The
car went home on a flat bed tow truck.
>     Got
>home from work last night,
pulled the pan and found this:
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/9932678513/
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/9932557605/in/photostream/
>
>
> Crank break just aft of #4 shear web at the rear main bearing.
>     I
didn't
>find any metal in the pan and it looks like it didn't take anything
else with
>it. I guess that I am lucky.
>     I have never taken the engine
over 5,000
>rpms and rarely go above 4500. I wonder what brought this on.
Maybe I should
>have had a harmonic balancer.
>     I suppose that I am not
the first guy to
>have this happen to him. Are there any specific things I
should be checking? I
>was wondering if it might have damaged the #4
connecting rod or maybe the rear
>bearing.
>     Time for a tear down. Dang! I
just about have my TR6 on the road
>and just bought a Renown.
>
>     -Bill in
Tehachapi
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 07:51:19 -0700
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1380113856.56780.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CADm3DLHc+g+FCEn=8F66aQajFq6ipR_=OFA8KaNwBNnvfrU-yw@mail.gmail.com>
	<1380119922.24041.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/25/13 7:38 AM, William Brewer wrote:
>       I was only taching about 3,800 at the time. Rude surprise.
The crank might have been already cracked.  It doesn't have to break 
completely all at once.  That's why when you have a crank out of the 
engine it never hurts to hit it with a hammer to see if it rings.

TeriAnn

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 09:53:38 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

...and a guy *seriously* rallying a well-known TR4 in the UK with a
*very* tuned engine uses an 8100 rpm redline, IIRC.

These aren't normal production engines anymore, though!



On 9/25/13, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 9/25/13 6:39 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:
>>
>> I don't know what caused it but I've heard that even the factory cars had
>> problems over 5,000.
>>
>>
> The TR3/4 crank has a major harmonic around 5200 RPM that tends to break
> the crank at the base of the flywheel mounting flange.  There is a
> second major harmonic a little above 6200 RPM that tends to break the
> stock crank in the middle.  This is why the TR engine is factory
> redlined at 5000 RPM.  The harmonics can shift a little along the RPM
> spectrum if the crank, rods, pistons & flywheel are not balanced.
>
> The aftermarket harmonic balancer sold the the TR engines tames the 5200
> RPM harmonic.  It requires going to a narrow fan belt & an electric fan.
>
> My engine is balanced, has a nitrided stock crank and a harmonic
> balancer. It sees 6000 RPM under full acceleration.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 08:10:36 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
References: <c4c95.5efded75.3f744184@cs.com> <5242F552.1050205@gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFDSJh8w8A9o4ZmdmNkN__TFjfW5oBHZOTz49t3v7BnKvQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Crank
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On 9/25/13 7:53 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> ...and a guy *seriously* rallying a well-known TR4 in the UK with a
> *very* tuned engine uses an 8100 rpm redline, IIRC.
>
> These aren't normal production engines anymore, though!
And almost certainly with a very expensive crank and rods.  8100 RPM in 
the TR 4 cyl engine is really pushing it with cubic money.  I could only 
afford about 6000 RPM.  Costs start getting really expensive to get past 
that second harmonic.

TeriAnn

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 19:47:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Funny story about Brad Penn Oil TR6
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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 19:50:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Funny story about Brad Penn Oil TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Stupid rich text:

Its been an expensive summer with my 1 owner 1972 TR6.


Had issues with clutch master cylinder, replaced, still having problems. It had to be mechanical.


Took to a British car shop. By the time they were done with me, a new clutch and a totally rebuilt gear box was in the equation. There were enough metal shavings on that magnetic drain plug from TRF to make a small Christmas tree. $4000 later, we are on the road again.


The thing I want to share with the list, because it is funny, and I need to laugh because I had to put that bill on the 12 month payment plan, is something about Brad Penn Motor Oil.


For years, I was a Castrol person, adding ZDDP, you know that story. Always thought all the fluids draining out of the bottom of the car were the gearbox, seals, etc. Well, all that was replaced with my $4000 upgrade.


So, just for the record, if you convert to Brad Penn oil, which is green, it will be clear to you (funny) after the conversion and replacement of the entire gearbox and seals, that oil is still leaking from your British car because it is GREEN. I can see at the bottom of the engine a GREEN line where oil is slowly making its way to the floor.


Don't get me wrong, I never need to add oil during the driving season, so I am not too worried, but I thought we could all get a laugh. 


It is getting dark way to early, enjoy the driving while you can.


Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 09:11:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     After snapping my TR3A crank I am considering a harmonic balancer on my
upcoming rebuild. I searched on google, but really didn't turn up anything. I
found one place with a harmonic balancer with the timing marks indexed, but no
price. Anyone have a good source for a harmonic balancer or any advice? maybe
I just don't need one if I keep my revs down.


   
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/dam-triumph.htm


     -Bill
in Tehachapi
     1960 TR3A
     1974 TR6 Mallard
     1952 Triumph Renown

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 11:19:53 -0500
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,Triumphs
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
  >
References: <1380211869.15394.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought mine from Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine
http://www.britishframeandengine.com/

It has no timing marks, they must be added.  Also, it is a good idea 
to paint it or it will rust (oops).

Tony Drews

At 11:11 AM 9/26/2013, William Brewer wrote:
>      After snapping my TR3A crank I am considering a harmonic balancer on my
>upcoming rebuild. I searched on google, but really didn't turn up anything. I
>found one place with a harmonic balancer with the timing marks indexed, but no
>price. Anyone have a good source for a harmonic balancer or any advice? maybe
>I just don't need one if I keep my revs down.
>
>
>
>http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/dam-triumph.htm
>
>
>      -Bill
>in Tehachapi
>      1960 TR3A
>      1974 TR6 Mallard
>      1952 Triumph Renown
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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	2013 09:26:50 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 09:26:48 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1380211869.15394.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/26/13 9:11 AM, William Brewer wrote:
>       After snapping my TR3A crank I am considering a harmonic balancer on my
> upcoming rebuild. I searched on google, but really didn't turn up anything. I
> found one place with a harmonic balancer with the timing marks indexed, but no
> price. Anyone have a good source for a harmonic balancer or any advice? maybe
> I just don't need one if I keep my revs down.
>
>
British Frame and Engine and Racetorations immediately come to mind. 
Mine came from Ken at British Frame & engine.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 26 10:33:11 2013
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From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 09:31:44 -0700
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Parts has one -- not sure if it fits a 3. I got mine from ATI directly
-- but the timing marks were off so I had to paste on a timing strip.


On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 9:11 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>      After snapping my TR3A crank I am considering a harmonic balancer on
> my
> upcoming rebuild. I searched on google, but really didn't turn up
> anything. I
> found one place with a harmonic balancer with the timing marks indexed,
> but no
> price. Anyone have a good source for a harmonic balancer or any advice?
> maybe
> I just don't need one if I keep my revs down.
>
>
>
> http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/dam-triumph.htm
>
>
>      -Bill
> in Tehachapi
>      1960 TR3A
>      1974 TR6 Mallard
>      1952 Triumph Renown
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 26 10:40:20 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 09:39:20 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac661RTLD14p7FcITeKVmxmyxi8EaQAAPoXA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I bought mine from Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine
> http://www.britishframeandengine.com/

Ken has (or at least had) two different kits available.  But both require converting to a narrow belt.  IIRC the kit I got from him
came with a suitable water pump pulley, but not the generator/alternator pulley.

Moss also sells a kit with a dampener, but for some strange reason they only list it as a narrow belt kit.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=52041
http://tinyurl.com/kurws3c

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 26 10:45:48 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 09:44:51 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac661RTLD14p7FcITeKVmxmyxi8EaQAAPoXAAABEqaA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> But both require converting to a narrow belt.

Oops, forgot to mention, all of the dampeners that I've seen also require converting to an electric fan; including the ones from Ken
& Moss.

Worth noting perhaps, that the factory setup with that heavy iron/aluminum fan mounted on rubber bushings should provide some amount
of dampening.  It has been said that eliminating those bushings (which do fail and need to be replaced from time to time) increases
the tendency to break crankshafts.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 26 10:54:07 2013
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References: <8C.5A.00725.08464425@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 09:52:26 -0700
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I sure recommend converting if you are racing or doing high revs.  With my
stock [nitrited] crank, an ATI damper,a lightweight flywheel,forged rods
and pistons and good balancing I am consistantly able to turn 7000 RPM in
the TR6.  Had heating issues after failing to install my radiator shield
for one race series which led to the need for a tear down.  The crank and
all the journals looked great after 10 race weekends on that engine.


On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 9:44 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > But both require converting to a narrow belt.
>
> Oops, forgot to mention, all of the dampeners that I've seen also require
> converting to an electric fan; including the ones from Ken
> & Moss.
>
> Worth noting perhaps, that the factory setup with that heavy iron/aluminum
> fan mounted on rubber bushings should provide some amount
> of dampening.  It has been said that eliminating those bushings (which do
> fail and need to be replaced from time to time) increases
> the tendency to break crankshafts.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan@gmail.com

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 23:24:26 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 harmonic Balancer
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---- Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan@gmail.com> wrote: 
> I sure recommend converting if you are racing or doing high revs.  

I agree entirely; but I don't think Bill is planning on either.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 27 14:30:42 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:20:48 -0700
To: Sally or Dick Taylor <taylorturbo6@yahoo.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1380313247;
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Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] SOFT TOP STOWING
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It was up last weekend, when we went through a monsoon!  And has been up for
all our Concours events, still looks great, and only leaked a small drip
inside the windshield. :)



Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA


> On Sep 27, 2013, at 11:55 AM, Sally or Dick Taylor <taylorturbo6@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>
> Yeah, Bill, but how do you know what your top looks like now? I've never
seen your car with the top up!
>
> Dick

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 27 22:33:54 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 23:21:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] guess the part
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

these showed up.  theybve been powdercoated, but I canbt figure out what
they are for.  anyone?//

www.ranteer.com/misc

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After many year of the "kidney pads" falling on the floor, I finally bought 
the rear bracket. Got the speakers installed successfully. But, I'm not sure 
why that rear bracket has one side longer than the other (with two holes). 
Does anyone know its purpose?

Thanks,
Jeff Nathanson
'72 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 05:51:27 2013
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 04:49:53 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Triumphest
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Leave in the early AM north on Hwy 1 all the way up the coast.  It will take
me about 2 hours longer than the "suggested routes," but that 's why I have a
TR6!  Weather should be great along Big Sur and the entire route.
See you there.  Safe driving!
Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 06:35:48 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <jeffn@msystech.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1579605.245555.1380156466838.JavaMail.root@vznit170170>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Kidney pad rear bracket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff....... there's actually three brackets for the KPs: front @ dash 
support, middle-ish between the KPs and rear on tranny tunnel by firewall. 
Judging by your description I think you're talking about the middle one 
shown by the blue arrow in the picture at the link below. The rear brackets 
are exactly the same. To answer your question about the uneven length.... no 
idea  :-) I have it installed per the picture and it holds everything in 
place.

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/KPBrackets.jpg

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: jeffn@msystech.com
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 12:33 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6: Kidney pad rear bracket

After many year of the "kidney pads" falling on the floor, I finally bought
the rear bracket. Got the speakers installed successfully. But, I'm not sure
why that rear bracket has one side longer than the other (with two holes).
Does anyone know its purpose?

Thanks,
Jeff Nathanson
'72 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 11:39:29 2013
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From: John Wise <wisejohna@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 13:38:04 -0400
References: <13499959.1380562329655.JavaMail.www@app222>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires
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What is the current list wisdom for the best choice of tires for a'60 TR3A
that has wire wheels?

I live in Ormond Beach Florida and usually drive the car to go shopping, to
meetings, car shows, and occasionally to the university where I teach which
involves 6 miles on I-95, as my students often ask very nicely about seeing
the car.  :-)

And by any WILD chance, does anyone know of a good shop in the Daytona Beach
area that can handle wire wheels?

Thanks

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group, LLC
Ormond Beach, FL

JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu

http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 15:02:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: wisejohna@gmail.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had good success wtih the Nexen 165R80-15 tire.  Not particularly pricey and actually available through Walmart, TiresPlus and other dealers.   Don't think they would be particularly good with wire wheels though.
 
Of course you could go with the 185 or 195 and a lower aspect ratio which would benefit cornering, etc.
 
No knowledge of locations on that side of FL.   If you come up dry - let me know and I'll ask the two good shops here in Tampa if they can recommend someone.
 



Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 09/30/13, John Wise wrote:

What is the current list wisdom for the best choice of tires for a'60 TR3A
that has wire wheels?

I live in Ormond Beach Florida and usually drive the car to go shopping, to
meetings, car shows, and occasionally to the university where I teach which
involves 6 miles on I-95, as my students often ask very nicely about seeing
the car. :-)

And by any WILD chance, does anyone know of a good shop in the Daytona Beach
area that can handle wire wheels?

Thanks

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group, LLC
Ormond Beach, FL

JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu

http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 16:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I put Vredesteins 165-15's on my TR3A and really like them. I bought them
off of Ebay for approx $100 each at the time. Now the are about $116 each for
four or $139 each from another guy. Made in Holland.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/165HR15-VREDESTEIN-SPRINT-CLASSIC-H-Blackwall-Radial-
Tires-/261172991568?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Tires&hash=item3ccf1f9650&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coker-Vredestein-165HR15-set-of-4-tires-/230900631498
?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Tires&hash=item35c2c007ca&vxp=mtr

     Bill from
Tehachapi, but currently in Bermuda



Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 13:38:04 -0400
From: John Wise <wisejohna@gmail.com>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires
Message-ID:
<FB05E1EA-A323-4F92-866B-0EAC38ADA22D@gmail.com>
charset="us-ascii"

What is the current list wisdom for the best choice of
tires for a'60 TR3A
that has wire wheels?

I live in Ormond Beach Florida and
usually drive the car to go shopping, to
meetings, car shows, and occasionally
to the university where I teach which
involves 6 miles on I-95, as my students
often ask very nicely about seeing
the car.  :-)

And by any WILD chance, does
anyone know of a good shop in the Daytona Beach
area that can handle wire
wheels?

Thanks

John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

