From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Jul 30 00:23:28 2006 From: "Horace Holman" To: Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 16:16:56 +0900 Subject: posh This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C6FC3F.7D22CEC8 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0014_01C6FC3F.7D22CEDF" ------=_NextPart_001_0014_01C6FC3F.7D22CEDF Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ART MOTIVES: The centre of the Egyptian system was the monarch and = hissupposed relatives, the gods. There was no greatdemonstration of = religion by form and color, as in Egypt. Religion, as we have seen, = hardly obtained at all. Theking attracted the greatest attention. They = made a kingdom of the sea,and their means of livelihood were gathered = from it. Humanity andactual Greek life came in for its share. Timanthess = famous work was the Sacrifice of Iphigenia, ofwhich there is a supposed = Pompeian copy. It is not likely that the backgrounds were otherthan = conventional settings for the figure. The figure is notstudied in = itself, but in its sun-shadow or silhouette. Dynastiesof kings called = Pharaohs succeeded one another by birth or conquest. It was the = lastreflection of Mesopotamian splendor. This was a distinct advance = toward nature. Color showed everywhere from floor to ceiling. There = wasno attempt to place objects in the setting which they hold in = nature. After that date come the more importantnames of artists = mentioned by the ancient writers. This may be seen in anyof the = battle-pieces of Rameses II. After Alexander, vase painting seems to = have shared the fate of wall and panel painting. Beside him and around = him his officers came in for a share of thebackground glory. He painted = many gods, heroes, and allegories, with muchgracefulness, as Pliny puts = it. In modelling, the human form was not soknowingly rendered as the = animal. There wasno attempt to place objects in the setting which they = hold in nature. --seems free from oriental influences in its designs. = White and purple are also used to define flesh, hair, and white objects. = Beside him and around him his officers came in for a share of = thebackground glory. All thatthere is of painting comes to us in broken = potteries and color traceson statuary. The firstmotive of Greek art, = then, was to praise Hellas and the Hellenic viewof life. Perspective and = light-and-shade were disregarded. These give a poor and incomplete idea = of the painting in Asia Minor, Phoenicia and her colonies. We may assume = that it waspictorial record, primitive picture-written history. The best = collection of Cypriote antiquities is in the Metropolitan Museum, New = York. Life itself was notmore important than death. When thiswas done = has been matter of much conjecture. After the outline was drawn the = enclosed space was filled in withplain color. It shows meander, wave, = and other designs, and is called the geometrical style. When thiswas = done has been matter of much conjecture. ------=_NextPart_001_0014_01C6FC3F.7D22CEDF Content-Type: text/html; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

ART MOTIVES: The centre of the Egyptian system was the monarch and = hissupposed=20 relatives, the gods. There was no greatdemonstration of religion by form = and=20 color, as in Egypt. Religion, as we have seen, hardly obtained at all. = Theking=20 attracted the greatest attention. They made a kingdom of the sea,and = their=20 means of livelihood were gathered from it. Humanity andactual Greek life = came=20 in for its share. Timanthess famous work was the Sacrifice of = Iphigenia,=20 ofwhich there is a supposed Pompeian copy. It is not likely that the=20 backgrounds were otherthan conventional settings for the figure. The = figure is=20 notstudied in itself, but in its sun-shadow or silhouette. Dynastiesof = kings=20 called Pharaohs succeeded one another by birth or conquest. It was = the=20 lastreflection of Mesopotamian splendor. This was a distinct advance = toward=20 nature. Color showed everywhere from floor to ceiling. There wasno = attempt to=20 place objects in the setting which they hold in nature. After that date = come=20 the more importantnames of artists mentioned by the ancient writers. = This may=20 be seen in anyof the battle-pieces of Rameses II. After Alexander, = vase=20 painting seems to have shared the fate of wall and panel painting. = Beside him=20 and around him his officers came in for a share of thebackground glory. = He=20 painted many gods, heroes, and allegories, with muchgracefulness, as = Pliny puts=20 it. In modelling, the human form was not soknowingly rendered as the = animal.=20 There wasno attempt to place objects in the setting which they hold in = nature.=20 --seems free from oriental influences in its designs. White and purple = are also=20 used to define flesh, hair, and white objects. Beside him and around him = his=20 officers came in for a share of thebackground glory. All thatthere is = of=20 painting comes to us in broken potteries and color traceson = statuary. The=20 firstmotive of Greek art, then, was to praise Hellas and the Hellenic = viewof=20 life. Perspective and light-and-shade were disregarded. These give a = poor and=20 incomplete idea of the painting in Asia Minor, Phoenicia and her = colonies. We=20 may assume that it waspictorial record, primitive picture-written = history. The=20 best collection of Cypriote antiquities is in the Metropolitan Museum, = New=20 York. Life itself was notmore important than death. When thiswas done = has been=20 matter of much conjecture. After the outline was drawn the enclosed = space was=20 filled in withplain color. It shows meander, wave, and other designs, = and is=20 called the geometrical style. When thiswas done has been matter of = much=20 conjecture. ------=_NextPart_001_0014_01C6FC3F.7D22CEDF-- ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C6FC3F.7D22CEC8 Content-Type: image/gif; name="plus sign.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <000b01c6fbf4$0d3b2610$49be053b@hgnbpe> R0lGODdheAE/AOcAALzuu6fTsmBzk4mppK/ctY2wp2+HmZS4qYqrpmh+lmqBl7fouImqpWl/l3aQ nZzDrbvtu5rBrWZ7lmF1lGqAl2V6lY6xp7rrumqAmJK3qZvBrazYtH2boGF0k4eno6bRsbXluGV5 lqHKsK7ctIyvp3uXnqDJr7vsupvCrH2aoGuCmGd9lm2EmXyYn5e9q5rArGyEmIippKrWs4GforXm uZK2qYWlpKjUsqTOsHqUnmd7lWl+l5m/q67btY6wpmN3lGF1k6/ctq3atIippZO3qaLLsHuYn46w p57GrpCyp4GgoWyDmHWOnLjoua/dtbjquZ3FrrnruqHLr3uXn6vYtICdoY+yqHOMm7Ddtrvsu3GJ mpzErbLgt3GKmnSNnKjUs2R3lbfnuavXtGJ3lJ3EraHKr3aSnbTjt5e7q3KLm4+xp7rqum6FmWN2 lGh+l7nqupa8q6rUs3WQnJ/Ir6PNsG2FmKfRsnCJmn+coIiopZi/q5G1qYCeobztu5G0qGd8lm2F mWB0k26FmniUnbDetm6GmZW6q3CImnSNm2J2lLPjt7bluJm/rKjTsrbmuISio7Pit4OiooWmo6zZ tH2Zn3qWnneRnIyuprLht4KhonSOnHmUnneSnZS5qYSjopi+rLXjuIalo6LNsIOio3iTnpe8qpCz 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Based on the e-mails I've received, it looks like there is significant interest in another calendar. Some of you have already sent pictures, and that's great. The pictures need to be a minimum resolution of 1280 x 960 with a ratio of 1.33:1. I'll accept submissions through October 20, then post them all on a photo hosting website and we can vote. The top 12 vote getters will go on a calendar, and I'll put together a screen saver using all of the pictures. One suggestion made for the calendar is that I include a short bio of the car on the calendar, so be thinking about what you'd like included with the picture. Last year I simply put the owner's name and the year/model. So start sending me pictures! Thanks, Kurtis Jones Russellville, Arkansas 1963 TR4 - CT19389L 1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250 www.geocities.com/tr4_1963 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 06:10:57 2006 From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Triumph List'" Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 09:08:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] NY Times Collector Cars The NY Times has started a special section of "collector cars" where anyone can submit 5 pictures and a description of their car. Right now there's only 2 Triumphs posted but I figure we can do better then that. If you go to my posting (http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/View_Listing.asp?ListingID=COL608271) you'll see a link for submitting your car. The main link for this section is at http://collectiblecars.nytimes.com/List_Listings.asp Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.10/459 - Release Date: 9/29/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 15:18:43 2006 From: "Tomislav Marincic" To: "triumphs list" Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 18:14:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help Hello, I installed a new wiring harness in my TR6 this weekend, and I've run into some trouble testing the heater fan motor. Am I testing it right? My car has no battery, among other things, so I'm using a 10A battery charger and a fused lead to apply power to the fan. I'm using a 15A fuse, and Dan Master's TR6 book says the fan motor draws 6A. I'm testing the motor directly, so the fan switch is not the problem. With the fan motor grounded and the negative lead from the charger grounded, I apply the fused lead to either the green/yellow or green/brown wire, and the fuse blows immediately. With my cheapo ohmmeter, I read 3.6 ohms across one circuit, and about 1.6 across the other. That translates to 7.5 amps and 3.3 amps at a nominal 12V, or a whopping 9.1A/4.1A at 14.6 charging volts. Are these numbers normal? 9 amps sounds like way too much for that circuit. The fan motor is freshly rebuilt, and I dread the thought of taking the heater assembly back out again. Thanks for any advice. Tom Marincic CC55483L http://www.triumphowners.com/735 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 15:40:31 2006 From: "Randall" To: "triumphs list" Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 15:38:13 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help > My car has no battery, among other things, so I'm using a 10A battery > charger and a fused lead to apply power to the fan. I'm using a 15A > fuse, and Dan Master's TR6 book says the fan motor draws 6A. I'm > testing the motor directly, so the fan switch is not the problem. Tom, my suggestion would be to first check that the fan spins freely, and then repeat your tests using a real battery rather than a battery charger. DC motors normally have a very low resistance when they are not running; and draw a lot more current when power is first applied than when they are running normally. What happens is that, as they spin, they effectively generate a voltage that opposes the input voltage and thus reduces the current. Depending on the motor, the startup current can be several times the running current. Also, battery chargers generally don't put out a constant 12v, but rather an ugly mix of AC and DC. On mine, if you put an oscilloscope on the output with no battery connected, it varies from 0 to about 18 volts. I don't know that this is your problem, but it seems worth eliminating to me. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 16:52:17 2006 From: Greg Perry To: Randall , Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 18:50:09 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: RE: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help Hello, One can put a capacitor inline to smooth out the voltage fluctuations. If my memory serves me correctly, I used two 2,000 microFarad capacitors in parallel for a total of 4,000 microFarads. This was probably overkill, but was available for the job at hand. Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: Randall >Also, battery chargers generally don't put out a constant 12v, but rather an >ugly mix of AC and DC. On mine, if you put an oscilloscope on the output with >no battery connected, it varies from 0 to about 18 volts. I don't know that >this is your problem, but it seems worth eliminating to me. > >Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 18:56:49 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 21:53:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3's wiring is next Tomorrow I will turn my attention to my TR3s wiring. The unconnected wiring harness has been in place in my car for many months. I am wondering are there any special tips- I dont even know where to start? Anything I should try to follow or be aware of? At least for now, I will be reconnecting the original generator, ignition, etc. I will be using a new regulator which I got in the TR auction at the VTR convention in Richmond in 2004! It looks just like the TR3 regulator, but, I wonder if theres a danger that it might be for another model? I also bought one of those colored laminated wiring diagrams on Ebay (actually it makes the original diagram quite easy to follow). Thanks in advance, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.10/459 - Release Date: 9/29/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 18:59:20 2006 From: "J.C. Hassall" To: "triumphs list" Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2006 21:57:27 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help At 06:38 PM 10/1/2006, Randall wrote: > > My car has no battery, among other things, so I'm using a 10A battery > > charger and a fused lead to apply power to the fan. I'm using a 15A > > fuse, and Dan Master's TR6 book says the fan motor draws 6A. I'm > > testing the motor directly, so the fan switch is not the problem. > >Tom, my suggestion would be to first check that the fan spins freely, and then >repeat your tests using a real battery rather than a battery charger. > >DC motors normally have a very low resistance when they are not running; and >draw a lot more current when power is first applied than when they are running >normally. What happens is that, as they spin, they effectively generate a >voltage that opposes the input voltage and thus reduces the >current. Depending >on the motor, the startup current can be several times the running current. > >Also, battery chargers generally don't put out a constant 12v, but rather an >ugly mix of AC and DC. On mine, if you put an oscilloscope on the output with >no battery connected, it varies from 0 to about 18 volts. I don't know that >this is your problem, but it seems worth eliminating to me. > >Randall Interesting. Just for grins I tried to power my fan from the charger - no joy. But it spun right up with the battery! Who woulda thunk it. Good call Randall! J -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA jhassall@blacksburg.net '63 TR4 in autox preparation - 90% finished, 90% to go === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 19:26:07 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 22:24:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 radiator update! Of course I need to update folks concerning my RADIATOR RAMBLINGS of last week. Just as this list predicted, the crusty old radiator repairmans repair came thru!!! Previously, after running the car (while jacked up) for about 30 minutes the engine temp might get as high as 230, however, it now stayed a constant 185. I also ran a muriatic acid mixture for about a 5 minute flush. It did this despite my using the original radiator AND Mr. Crusty pinching off 6-7 of the rows (on the front). This guy gave me a 6 month guarantee but, we shall see! I would think that simply due to the radiators age, more leaks might develop over time- right? In which case I should have bought a new core to begin with- I could kick myself. Thanks for everyones advice, esp. those who offered me a radiator. I proably will need to address this again in the future. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.10/459 - Release Date: 9/29/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 21:25:18 2006 From: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 17:20:45 +1300 Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Brake Booster or Vacuum power servo, What car's could I get a brake servo from to install into my 1962 TR4. Jim Vass 1962 TR4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 1 21:32:41 2006 From: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 17:29:22 +1300 Subject: [TR] Brake booster again Excuse my ignorance but would a twin line Triumph 2500 model brake vacuum servo ( booster) be adaptable for a 1962 TR4? Jim Vass 1962 TR4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 01:48:47 2006 From: John Gillis To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:40:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] Clutch panic I finally managed to encourage the brake fluid down to the clutch slave cylinder. I have a "good" pedal and after some adjustment on the fork rod I was able to turn the output shaft flange on the box in all gears with the pedal depressed,although 1st requires some effort, and also loctae the point of engagement as I slowlly released the pedal. The problem is when I engage reverse and depress the clutch the shaft refuses to move as though engaged. I am beginning to panic and imagine I have assembled something backwards or not at all! In my box re-build. Any thoughts?? Regards John -- John Gillis 1954 Triumph TR2 1991 Kawasaki W650 Dublin IRELAND === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 02:53:18 2006 From: Mike Kitchener To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 11:44:00 +0200 Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch panic John, Just a few thoughts: I believe that the lower the gear is , the effort needed to turn the output shaft is higher.As reverse is much lower than first what you are experiencing could be normal. Can you turn the engine over with both clutch and reverse engaged? Good luck, Mike. http://mikek.9online.fr/index.htm > I finally managed to encourage the brake fluid down to the clutch > slave cylinder. I have a "good" pedal and after some adjustment on the > fork rod I was able to turn the output shaft flange on the box in all > gears with the pedal depressed,although 1st requires some effort, and > also locate the point of engagement as I slowlly released the pedal. > The problem is when I engage reverse and depress the clutch the shaft > refuses to move as though engaged. I am beginning to panic and imagine > I have assembled something backwards or not at all! In my box > re-build. Any thoughts?? Regards John -- John Gillis 1954 Triumph TR2 > 1991 Kawasaki W650 Dublin IRELAND === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 05:24:59 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis , Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 12:11:57 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Booster -------------- Original message -------------- From: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis > Brake Booster or Vacuum power servo, > > What car's could I get a brake servo from to install into my 1962 TR4. This is a relatively common conversion for TR4 vintage racers who need to convert to a dual circuit brake master cylinder and are trying to save some $$$. You use the master cylinder with power booster from a TR6, but to do so, you also need the TR6 peddle assembly. Another requirement is that a 3" hole needs to be cut in the firewall, which then needs to be reinforced around the hole. The TR4 parts manual shows that back in the day, there was a booster available that fit the TR4. I have seen it referred to as "Moto-Vac" and as "Power Stop" vacuum servo kit (part #514600). I have never seen one. HTH, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U 63 TR4 VSCDA Group 2 #58 Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 05:30:41 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 05:20:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Timing chain - update! Hi List + Adrian! From: Adrian Jones Subject: [TR] Timing chain - update! ++++++++++++++++ Suggestion: Purchase 2- Timing Chain Tensionors 2- Timing Chain Gaskets 1- Timing Chain 1- Cam Shaft Nut locking Plate I figured that you have already removed ALL of the old Timing Chain Gasket before you install the T-Chain Tensionor. Set engine to TDC & make sure the cam is in the correct position (#7 &8 Rocker arms should be closed fully. Thus sitting on the side of their lobes ready to open). Install tensioner & New chain checking that the Cam & Crank Sprockets match up correctly. BTW- Do NOT remove the Woodriff Key & prefurably not the Crank Sprock either. Install the Gasket on the T-Cover & assemble. I HOPE that you marked the order or the bolts when you 1st removed the T-Cover, because there is one (1) short bolt that is to be placed back in the came hole as before, as written on my repair manual. Then next time your T-Chain Tensioner breakes Then just install the new tensionor & check that the Sprockets are in proper alignemt. Remember that this is ONLY a suggestion & it's your car so you can di things differently if you wish. -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 05:41:06 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 05:32:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Low idle vs Higher idle Hi List, again! I summitted this question to the list & didn't see anybody replying to it. Maybe because it was over looked or being a 'theory' question than a 'repair' question. I really would like some input, because another person & I are having a 'discussion' on this topic, & I feel the list's input is important. Here is the question, again. TIA ===== Hi List! I know that in the manual's spects that it states the Wet sleeve engine's idle should be set at 850 RPM's. & many people feel that this IS to low, & set or accept 950 -> 1000 Rpm's for an idle. My question is: What harm could be done if the idle was set LOWER THAN 850RPM's? Say 750 or even lower? Still ideling ruffer the lower you go in RPS's. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 06:22:59 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: diggle@clear.net.nz, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:05:10 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Booster In a message dated 10/1/2006 11:27:09 PM Central Standard Time, diggle@clear.net.nz writes: > Brake Booster or Vacuum power servo, > > What car's could I get a brake servo from to install into my 1962 TR4. > Moss and others offer a servo booster that is generic in application that will take the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder and boost it using a vacuum powered servo. This similar to the unit used in the big Austin Healey's. Another option is to retrofit a Triumph 2500 or a TR6 braking system into your TR4. You would need to use the booster and the master cylinder minimum. Your TR4 MC might fit but if not the new MC, which is set up for dual circuit brakes, will certainly fit and the plumbing from a TR6 will fit and will give you a well sorted out system. I've seen this system retrofitted to a TR3 so putting one in a TR4 should be a cake walk. Cheers Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 06:34:51 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: jmitch@snet.net, 6pack@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:10:51 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Oil filter canister In a message dated 10/1/2006 7:29:34 PM Central Standard Time, jmitch@snet.net writes: > I'm having trouble getting the oil canister to seal(river of oil > under car) after I changed the oil. I've only got one rubber ring but > the canister doesn't seem to be pulling in tight enough to crush it. > Does the little star thing on the bolt go inside the filter or just > press against one side. I really should know this stuff by now. John > 76 TR6 > It is easy enough not to get the canister into the groove where the ring rides. When this happens the end of the canister clamps tightly against the filter head and all feels right until the car is started and it pukes oil everywhere. The trick I use is to tighten the bolt until it starts to bind then I loosen it just enough to leave the canister loose. Then I push up on it and move it about looking for the groove. If it is already in the groove I won't find it. But if it is not in the groove I will find it. Then I continue to hold it in the groove and run the bolt up. Good luck Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 07:24:31 2006 From: William McLeod To: diggle@clear.net.nz Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 07:10:40 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Booster > In a message dated 10/1/2006 11:27:09 PM Central Standard Time, > diggle@clear.net.nz writes: >> Brake Booster or Vacuum power servo, >> >> What car's could I get a brake servo from to install into my 1962 >> TR4. >> Dave Massey said: > Moss and others offer a servo booster that is generic in > application that > will take the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder and boost > it using a > vacuum powered servo. This similar to the unit used in the big > Austin Healey's. > There are a few imported cars (the old Honda 600 comes to mind) > which also had remotely located vacuum operated brake boosters > which operated on the existing hydraulic pressure. Check with your > knowledgeable junkyard operator.... Regards, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 07:54:14 2006 From: To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 09:38:50 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] First list question - Restoration stickers Hi List, First question from me. I am really enjoying reading all the good stuff on this site. I am applying to my car the following sticker set to my 1972 Triumph TR6: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4644032167&category=80736 I have them all on except the two Smiths black decals. Questions: 1.) One Smiths Industries Limited decal says FHR~5406. Where does that go? 2.) The other Smiths decal says rotation + and - on it and Code FHR 545. Was this for the distributor cap? Any insight is appreciated. Thanks, Craig === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 08:18:38 2006 From: "Tim OBrien" To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:04:24 -0600 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience Regarding the TR3 vs TR4 look and feel. I drive my TR4 regularly but had the chance to drive a better than new restored TR3 this year. I had always wished I had a 3 because of the beautiful lines, etc. Now I'm not so sure the TR4 is the better car for me. While I'm not a big guy, I certainly enjoy the wider cockpit of the 4 over the 3. Also I recall that the TR3 took more attention to drive, this one having some strange erratic pulling with the brakes (that only appeared on occation). I was told by the ower to please keep both hands firmly on the wheel. Not so in my 4. (perhaps it was just this particular, yet well sorted TR3). Hard to say. Also, while not as beautiful, I also like the more accessable engine bay and larger trunk of my 4 as well. I hope this helps answer the original question. I can't knock the TR3 - They are awesome cars - I can only guess the hoods and windows are easier to manage than my 4. (I must agree with the previous post that putting the top up in the rain takes too long in my car!) However, I've grown to appreciate my 4 more after having the chance to drive a 3. It's all good. Best regards, Tim O'Brien Frogmont, CO 64-TR4 85-Bitter SC === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 09:51:02 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:41:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Car Storage Timeline: November 2005. Drive the TR6 up to a friend's barn 90 miles out of town for a short, 4 month storage whilst I dismantle the TR3. Park the car, open battery disconnect and throw cover over the car. No other steps take. Fast forward to Oct 1, 2006. A bit longer than the planned four months. I pulled the cover off. Check the oil for gas. OK. No gas in oil. Check coolant. Full. Check master cylinder. Full. Close battery disconnect. Open door and curtesy light illuminates. Turn key and listen to fuel pump run. Listen to carbs filling up. Engage starter. Crank, crank, crank, vroom. Runs like it had been run yesterday. So, after 11 months of total neglect I needed none of the precautionary supplies I brought with me. Spare battery: no need. The old battery sat 11 month and stopped taking a charge after only a few minutes. Change of oil: no need. Well, it could use a change anyway. Spare brake fluid: no need. I thought I had a leaky wheel cylinder but I guess it healed itself. Jack, tools: stayed in the trunk. So what do you need to do to store a car for a prolonged period of time? Nothing. Disconnect the battery maybe. I did nothing else. The battery held its charge over the year of idleness. No Stabil (R) in the gas (the TR6 has an evaporative loss control system and the fuel stayed fresh). The tires were still inflated and had no flat spots. The car cruised smoothly down the highway back home. No plug fouling. The only thing I didn't bring with me that I wish I had were nose plugs. Barns, mice, coincidence? No evidence of destruction. No chewed hoses or wires or upholstery. But the smell. In hind sight I should have pulled the seats and carpets before leaving it. Just wanted to share. That old TR6 is dead nuts reliable. Smelly but reliable. Dave Massey 57 TR3 71 TR6 80 TR8 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 10:18:46 2006 From: MMoore8425@aol.com To: obrienboys@gmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 13:08:30 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience In a message dated 10/2/2006 8:06:06 AM Pacific Standard Time, obrienboys@gmail.com writes: Regarding the TR3 vs TR4 look and feel. I drive my TR4 regularly but had the chance to drive a better than new restored TR3 this year. I had always wished I had a 3 because of the beautiful lines, etc. Now I'm not so sure the TR4 is the better car for me. While I'm not a big guy, I certainly enjoy the wider cockpit of the 4 over the 3. Also I recall that the TR3 took more attention to drive, this one having some strange erratic pulling with the brakes (that only appeared on occation). I was told by the ower to please keep both hands firmly on the wheel. Not so in my 4. (perhaps it was just this particular, yet well sorted TR3). Hard to say. Also, while not as beautiful, I also like the more accessable engine bay and larger trunk of my 4 as well. I hope this helps answer the original question. I can't knock the TR3 - They are awesome cars - I can only guess the hoods and windows are easier to manage than my 4. (I must agree with the previous post that putting the top up in the rain takes too long in my car!) However, I've grown to appreciate my 4 more after having the chance to drive a 3. It's all good. Best regards, Tim O'Brien Frogmont, CO 64-TR4 85-Bitter SC Tim, I'm sure not interested in getting involved in a "what is the better car" contoversy. I bought my TR3A from the original owner (my boss) in 1963 for $400. That's what he had been offered in trade on a new TR4. His wife liked the TR4 better because of the windup windows. The TR3 had made a couple of trips (with her in it) from LA to Chicago, and one trip from LA to Mexico City. They were about to go back to Chicago again, hence the TR4. He came to me a few months later and was trying to figure a way to get his TR3 back. They are both great cars, and each have their strengths and weaknesses. I love em both! Best, Mike Moore 59 TR3A === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 10:26:38 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Greg Perry'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 10:24:15 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help > One can put a capacitor inline to smooth out the voltage > fluctuations. If my memory serves me correctly, I used two > 2,000 microFarad capacitors in parallel for a total of 4,000 > microFarads. This was probably overkill, but was available > for the job at hand. And then what voltage did your capacitors charge to ? Again, if your charger is like mine, you're going to get something like 18-20 volts, which would explain the high current. Especially when applied to a stopped DC motor. 4,000 uF is certainly adequate for this, but I wouldn't call it overkill ... ISTR my 10A bench supply has 50,000 uF and it still has some ripple. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 10:33:39 2006 From: "Tim OBrien" To: "MMoore8425@aol.com" Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 11:30:56 -0600 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience Absolutely not worth disputing. The TR3s will always be worth more, enjoy more status, etc. It's been well documented that that TR4 was considered a 'stop gap' type of car from a development standpoint. I'd like to drive another TR3 for comparison but after having driven this one particular car, I gained some appreciation for the LBC I already own. I would think we could all agree that owning a several models is likely the very best route. Tim === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 10:58:22 2006 From: "Lanoway, Brian" To: "Triumphs Digest" Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:55:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] how to guide - replacing TR6 wood dash? I'm thinking of upgrading the wood dash in my TR6 to one of the Prestige offerings. Has anyone published a how-to guide, or tips and hints, for removing and replacing this? Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 11:50:19 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 11:47:06 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience MMoore8425@aol.com wrote: >...I'm sure not interested in getting involved in a "what is the better car" >contoversy... > Appears to be a 'boxers or briefs' question with personal preference and what was available when you were looking for one the main deciders. Geo H (TR3, TR4 & briefs). -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.11/460 - Release Date: 10/1/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 12:31:16 2006 From: Michael Porter To: Tim OBrien Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 13:12:43 -0600 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience Tim OBrien wrote: >Absolutely not worth disputing. The TR3s will always be worth more, enjoy >more status, etc. > But, that's not actual experiential difference. That's retention of value as an antique. Having driven both, I'd say that the additional track on the TR4 is an advantage, and once a little extra caster was added to the front end, the TR4 became a more stable car at speed. There's a lot more room to work in the engine compartment, as well, a big advantage over the TR3 for people doing their own work. Compare, for example, the time and effort to do a radiator exchange or starter R&R. > >It's been well documented that that TR4 was considered a 'stop gap' type of >car from a development standpoint. > I wonder about your "well documented" sources on this. Triumph paid Michelotti to do the design work, paid for retooling to the wider frame and axle to match, bit the cost bullet for roll-up windows and an all-synchro transmission, added rack & pinion steering and used the TR4 to bridge to IRS with the 4A. The body shell and doors closely resemble that of the TR6 (the differences are in the wings, bonnet and boot lid sheet metal). Those things, along with the run time (seven years), suggests that Triumph intended it not to be a "stopgap" model, but, rather, a distinctly newer car than the 3A. Now, I would agree that the TR250/TR5 was a stopgap model--there were issues of timing to market regarding design/body tooling for the TR6, along with cost issues with PI, meeting emissions requirements, etc., that made that model temporary--it made good business sense at the time to put the TR6 drivetrain into the 4A, given the circumstances. But, that's simply not the case with the TR4/4A. If you look at other model runs post-war, the 4/4A series was plenty long, almost as long as the TR6, and just about as long as the 3/3A/3B. Cheers. -- Michael D. Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 12:44:04 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:35:15 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Car Storage > So what do you need to do to store a car for a prolonged > period of time? > Nothing. Disconnect the battery maybe. I did nothing else. You were lucky, IMO. Maybe you can get away with that every time ... but I have seen cars where the rings rusted to the cylinders in less than 6 months. In fact, that was one of the many things wrong with my last TR3A when my wife bought it for me. The engine had turned, but the damage became obvious once I pulled the head to see why it burned oil so badly ... the rust pits were still visible in the cylinder wall and the top ring in that cylinder was in pieces. So much for the previous owner's $1000 engine rebuild ! Then there was a friend's freshly rebuilt (maybe 2000 miles) MGA motor that was basically a total loss after a year of storage. He had to break the piston to get it out of the cylinder. Perhaps the odds of it happening are low (and certainly they depend on climate and storage conditions), but given what a PITA it is to correct the problem, if the odds are even 1 in 1000, I'd still want to invest a few minutes to dump oil down the plug holes and roll the engine over. Most of the storage instructions fall into the same category, IMO. It's not "something bad will definitely happen if you don't to this", but rather "Doing this will reduce the chances of something bad happening". Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 12:54:18 2006 From: MMoore8425@aol.com To: ahwahnee@cybertrails.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 15:52:37 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience In a message dated 10/2/2006 11:48:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, ahwahnee@cybertrails.com writes: MMoore8425@aol.com wrote: >...I'm sure not interested in getting involved in a "what is the better car" >contoversy... > Appears to be a 'boxers or briefs' question with personal preference and what was available when you were looking for one the main deciders. Geo H (TR3, TR4 & briefs). George, I had the great honor of not only meeting but being seated with the great Harry Webster at the dedication of the Triumph Monument in Coventry in 2000. After lunch, Harry and I took a stoll together in the parking lot where many many Triumph autos were assembled. I asked him what he thought the greatest Triumph was. He stopped, looked around (I thought to make sure no one had heard my question) then quietly pointed his cane towards a TR6. Best, Mike Moore === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 12:58:58 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 15:51:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] steering coupler placement 3 steps forward, 2 backwards. The steering wheel is still not 2 < lock-to-lock. My TR3 has the split column. With the coupler in place (above fuel pump), it wants to rub up against the tube which goes upwards towards the steering wheel. Ive thought that it must not be correctly seated on the lower shaft. However, beating (or solid taps) to the coupler does not help seat it (more than it already is). Any suggestions? Perhaps I should just let it be, it only barely touches the tube? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.11/460 - Release Date: 10/1/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 13:07:49 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 13:03:21 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience > Also I recall that the TR3 took more attention to > drive, this one > having some strange erratic pulling with the brakes (that > only appeared on > occation). I was told by the ower to please keep both hands > firmly on the > wheel. > > Not so in my 4. (perhaps it was just this particular, yet > well sorted > TR3). Tim, I guess your definition of "well-sorted" must be different than mine. Sounds to me like the car you drove falls into the same category as the show-winner that belches blue smoke while struggling to pull itself onto the trailer for the ride home to it's spotless air-conditioned garage. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 13:19:46 2006 From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Lanoway, Brian'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 16:17:25 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] how to guide - replacing TR6 wood dash? Brian, I put one of their dashes in about 7 years ago and its a beautiful piece of "art". Pulling the wood dash isn't a big deal but it is time consuming. Basically, you need to disconnect and pull the tach and speedo (and trip reset button). The only switch that's usually a problem to remove is the Rheostat. You may end up breaking the knob if it's never been off before. Check your glove box support arm to see if it's screwed in to the metal dash and remove it. Remove the screws on the face of the old dash and you can pull it forward to access the center gauge cluster. These gauges also need to be removed. Installation is the reverse....but more nerve-racking as you won't want to damage the beautiful finish he puts on his dashes! From a tip standpoint: 1. If you ever thought about replacing the crash pads or heater/demister hoses, this is the time to do it. 2. Label and clean every connector/wire you disconnect & draw pictures of where they hook up 3. When tightening the face screws on the new dash, do them slowly and in a cross pattern and 4. I had to use some wood shims between the wood and metal dash around the glove box door to get a nice flush fit. You can't just tighten the wood dash to the metal dash and expect it to line up perfectly. I highly recommend Prestige as the fit, finish and quality of their dash is outstanding. I'm always getting compliments on it. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lanoway, Brian Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 1:55 PM To: Triumphs Digest Subject: [TR] how to guide - replacing TR6 wood dash? I'm thinking of upgrading the wood dash in my TR6 to one of the Prestige offerings. Has anyone published a how-to guide, or tips and hints, for removing and replacing this? Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.11/460 - Release Date: 10/1/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 13:42:19 2006 From: "John Herrera" To: tr3driver@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 16:39:37 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Car Storage >Most of the storage instructions fall into the same category, IMO. It's >not >"something bad will definitely happen if you don't to this", but rather >"Doing this will reduce the chances of something bad happening". > >Randall Seems like every fall the articles appear: How to Prepare Your TR for Winter Storage, Blah, Blah. Then in the spring: How to Prepare Your TR for Spring after Winter Storage, Blah, Blah, Blah. Not that I do it right, but here's what I do: Winter: Put car in shed. Turn off engine. Open bonnet, glove box and boot. Mice like to build their nests in an enclosed area, seems. I don't see the point in disconnecting the battery; it's an open circuit when the ignition is off. Unless you have a clock or something. Go into house and drink Gin & Tonic. Spring: Charge battery. Batteries will self-discharge at a rate of about one point of specific gravity per day, and more if the battery top is dirty. Check fluid levels. Probably not necessary but gives you something to do while the battery charges. Clean out mouse nests, if required. Pump priming lever on fuel pump. Shot of starting fluid and... Vroom! Off you go. John === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 13:50:11 2006 From: zoboherald@aol.com To: ahwahnee@cybertrails.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 16:45:52 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience -----Original Message----- From: ahwahnee@cybertrails.com Appears to be a 'boxers or briefs' question with personal preference and what was available when you were looking for one the main deciders. ==AM== I'm with you. Heck, back in the late 1960s, my dad and I had nearly identical Herald 1200 convertibles. Other than color, the only significant difference was that his had the 40hp 1147 (with one iffy cylinder, not that it ever mattered!) and mine had the 48hp 1147. I loved them both...for different reasons. And if someone wants to help me get my 3A running and give me a 4 for a long-term, back-to-back comparison, I'll probably end up saying the same thing (love 'em both, for different reasons). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 14:07:55 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: beaudoin.jonathan@ville.gatineau.qc.ca, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 17:05:32 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage In a message dated 10/2/2006 1:04:15 PM Central Standard Time, beaudoin.jonathan@ville.gatineau.qc.ca writes: > For the last 9 years I have been telling myself that I was not doing the > right thing for the 6 winter CANADIAN storage. (half of year)!!In fact I was > doing nothing else than removing the battery. Each year it started like we > were yesterday. Last winter, I had time! Done everything to be sure it was ok. > stabil, oil in plugs ... This spring.... No power (new battery) Never started > had to rebuild the carbs because they were green as... This winter I will do > nothing except to put in some mice trap! > I remember as a kid my dad would have us get the lawn mower ready for winter by changing the oil and running them out of gas. These days I always forget and just throw in some fresh gas in the spring. No problems. I change the oil every year but usually forget to do it in the Fall and it happens in the Spring. Go figure. Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 14:29:34 2006 From: skip@shervington.org To: TR6UO@aol.com Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 14:24:35 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] British Car Gathering Short Video (Half Moon Bay, CA) Hey Steve, I know what you mean..this year an MGB went off the road and smacked up his passenger side front fender! Since I live in Santa Cruz, I just travel Highway 1 and meet the lot there! I use Windows Media Movie Maker and it came with my laptop. Skip Steve wrote: Skip, Great slide show, thanks. What program did you use to put that together? For the record, I no longer go on the HMB run because of the roads chosen to get there. Too many bad roads and pot holes for my old TR6. Regards, Steve '72 TR6 Vacaville, CA === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 14:31:31 2006 From: skip@shervington.org To: Chip19474@aol.com Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 14:27:43 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] British Car Gathering Short Video (Half Moon Bay, CA) Great Idea! I'm not sure where you could rent a bus like that, but I would start with movie production companies in New York! Skip, That was great - your video gave me an idea for our next club-sponsored show in May and possibly next year's VTR National in Valley Forge, PA - renting a double-decker bus. I'm not sure what we'd do with it, but we've got until next May to figure it out! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA USA '76 TR6 CF57822U === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 14:38:13 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 14:35:25 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Low idle vs Higher idle > My question is: > What harm could be done if the idle was set LOWER THAN > 850RPM's? > > Say 750 or even lower? Still ideling ruffer the lower > you go in RPS's. Cosmo : I'm not sure you could call it "harm", but I can think of several possible ill effects of having the idle speed too low : 1) Greater tendency for the engine to stall, particularly when first coming to a stop (while your right foot is busy on the brake pedal and not available to tickle the throttle), and when first pulling away from a stop. 2) Greater tendency to overheat, as the fan is not turning fast enough to pull air through the radiator. 3) Lower oil pressure. 4) Higher exhaust emissions. That said, the original TR2/3 workshop manual says to set the idle to 500 rpm, so I certainly don't think 750 will do any "harm". Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 14:49:47 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 14:42:47 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Car Storage > I don't see the point in > disconnecting the battery; it's an open circuit when the > ignition is off. Not that you asked, John, but here again there is kind of a point : Just like the dirt on top of the battery that you mentioned, it's not unusual for the wiring, etc. to leak a small amount of current due to dirt and whatnot. Disconnecting the battery just slows it's discharge, possibly by quite a bit. My old motorhome leaked about 20ma in damp weather ... problem was eventually traced to dirt around a particular connection underneath the body. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 15:09:28 2006 From: TR250Driver@aol.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 18:04:55 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage Dave, I am never that lucky. This year 2 of the 3 Wedges had the clutch stuck to the flywheel. I hate it when that happens! I just fired them up in gear and took off down the drive way. The bang when they free up is scary. No way to prevent that I suppose? Cheers, Darrell === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 15:16:23 2006 From: "Tomislav Marincic" To: tr3driver@comcast.net, "triumphs list" Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 18:14:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical troubleshooting help Randall and Jim, Thanks for the help, I must be missing a digest;I had to go to the archive to see your replies. What I finally did, at my father's suggestion, was to switch my charger to 6 Volts (1/2 the voltage, 1/2 the amps for a given resistance), then warm the DC motor up by running it for a bit at that setting. Once it was warm, it ran at 12V without any difficulty. Hopefully, when I have a battery in place I won't have this problem. I'm reluctant to buy one now, since my car won't be roadworthy for a year, but I may have to so I can test circuits properly while everything is so accessible. Thanks again to the list, and particularly to Randall for his informative posts. Cheers, Tom Marincic CC55483L http://www.triumphowners.com/735 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 15:16:42 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 18:08:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] steering lockstops In my attempt to find out why my steering wheel wont turn but 1 > turns lock to lock (its suppose to be 2 < turns). I removed both lockstops and then turned the wheels; still 1 > turns. I know these are elliptical in shape in order to adjust, however, even with them removed, my steering is still limited. What is the purpose of these lockstops? Does anyone have an idea as to why I dont have the full steering range? I think its limited on both sides or directions. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.11/460 - Release Date: 10/1/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 15:16:48 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 15:14:42 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] steering coupler placement > However, beating (or solid taps) to the > coupler does not help seat it (more than it already is). Ohhh, bad idea ! That shaft is supported only by ball bearings in the steering box, and determined pounding may well damage the bearings. Plus, the coupler is located positively on both shafts, by the pinch bolt going through the groove cut on the shaft. It has only one position, and should slide fairly easily into the correct position. > Any suggestions? > Perhaps I should just let it be, it only barely touches the tube? Why not move the tube upwards a bit, away from the coupler ? It's only held by clamps, I don't recall any positive location for it. Really none is needed, since it doesn't take any thrust along it's axis. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 15:22:49 2006 From: Greg Perry To: Randall , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 17:19:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: RE: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help Randall, -----Original Message----- >> One can put a capacitor inline to smooth out the voltage >> fluctuations. If my memory serves me correctly, I used two >> 2,000 microFarad capacitors in parallel for a total of 4,000 >> microFarads. This was probably overkill, but was available >> for the job at hand. I need to correct the above. The capacitor is connected across the battery charger leads with positive side of the capacitor connected to the positive cable of the charger. > >And then what voltage did your capacitors charge to ? I didn't measure the voltage at the time. Again, if your >charger is like mine, you're going to get something like 18-20 volts, which >would explain the high current. Especially when applied to a stopped DC >motor. > >4,000 uF is certainly adequate for this, but I wouldn't call it overkill ... >ISTR my 10A bench supply has 50,000 uF and it still has some ripple. I didn't get an oscilliscope out to check the ripple. >Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 15:55:26 2006 From: "David Brister" To: "John Mitchell" , Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 00:53:14 +0200 Subject: Re: [TR] Re: Oil filter canister Why not go for a spin on oil filter conversion? After about twenty years of messing with those little rubber rings (upside down on the drive or garage floor getting your arms and everything else covered with dirty hot engine oil) I now only have to give the filter a little twist with one of those strap thingies from the top , spin off then spin on and bingo. Also you can buy the filters anywhere. David Brister 1967 TR4A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 770 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now! === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 16:01:00 2006 From: Mark Macy To: List Triumph Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 15:56:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Head Gasket Listers: I hate to admit this, but I think I'm having a senior moment. Which side "UP" on a 4 cylinder head gasket? Mark Macy New Carlisle, OH === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 16:07:36 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Mark Macy'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 16:05:46 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3/4 Head Gasket > I hate to admit this, but I think I'm having a senior > moment. Which side "UP" on a 4 cylinder head gasket? In theory, it doesn't matter. The gasket is symmetrical, except for the oil hole for the feed to the rockers, and all modern gaskets have that hole at both ends. Personally, I like to install them with the crimped side up (smooth side towards the liners), but I doubt it makes any real difference. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 16:22:12 2006 From: "Terry Smith" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 19:20:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal Gadfrey. I should know this. Rebuilt the engine and it runs like a top. Only trouble, it has a big seep from the valve cover gasket. I tried Justin's silicone gasket, but it seems to be too long to fit the cover, and it seeps. I tried the cork gasket installed dry, and it seeps, but I've shrunk from the notion of putting gasket sealer down because pulling the cover to adjust the valves could wind up with bits of cork finding their way into the lifter holes. And I haven't even switched to multi-viscosity synthetic oil yet! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire (Top down so it's summer til it snows.) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 16:32:39 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 16:30:27 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3's wiring is next > Tomorrow I will turn my attention to my TR3s wiring. The unconnected > wiring harness has been in place in my car for many months. > I am wondering > are there any special tips- I dont even know where to start? > Anything I > should try to follow or be aware of? Sorry, Paul, I'm not much help there. I've always just patched up the old harness, or run new wires when necessary. > At least for now, I will be reconnecting the original > generator, ignition, > etc. I will be using a new regulator which I got in the TR > auction at the > VTR convention in Richmond in 2004! It looks just like the > TR3 regulator, > but, I wonder if theres a danger that it might be for > another model? Should be close enough, even if it was originally from another car. > I also bought one of those colored laminated wiring diagrams on > Ebay (actually > it makes the original diagram quite easy to follow). Just be sure it matches your car, and keep in mind the LHD vs RHD differences. There are something like 6 different factory wiring schemes, times LHD vs RHD, for at least 12 different ways to wire a TR2-3B. I've never seen any source give more than 2 or 3, nor any source give the OD wiring the way I found it on TS39781LO. Even the diagram in the TR2-3 factory workshop manual contradicts the photo shown of the relay ! Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 16:41:29 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Terry Smith'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 16:39:36 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal > Rebuilt the engine and it runs like a top. Only trouble, it > has a big seep > from the valve cover gasket. I tried Justin's silicone > gasket, but it seems > to be too long to fit the cover, and it seeps. Justin's silicone gaskets have to be installed cold (some racers throw them in the ice chest for rapid track-side changes). Even then, it takes some finesse to get them stuffed into place. But if you have the gasket properly in place (with the locater ridge visible all around the cover except where it's cut away to clear the head nuts), and still have seepage, I would suggest there is something else wrong. Have you checked your rocker cover gasket surface for flatness ? Also that it meets the surfaces on the head ? They sometimes bow out until they hang over the edge above the plugs ... > I tried the cork gasket > installed dry, and it seeps, but I've shrunk from the notion > of putting gasket > sealer down because pulling the cover to adjust the valves > could wind up with > bits of cork finding their way into the lifter holes. What I did before switching to Justin's gasket was to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover with gasket cement (Permatex or similar), then use a light coating of Hylomar between the gasket and the head. The Hylomar is much less aggressive than the Permatex and won't tear the cork. This scheme allowed me to reuse the same gasket for years, until it finally shrunk so much that it opened a gap at one corner. And then I could work on scraping away the Permatex and old gasket with the cover on the bench, away from the open motor. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 17:01:12 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Terry Smith" Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 20:13:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal Hi Terry, I use the technique that was on the Buckeye Triumph site (no longer posted). Cork gasket, use silicone to attach the gasket to the valve cover. Let set overnight. Then attach to the engine dry. Used this on my TR6 valve cover and sump pan. No leaks 3 years later. I'll use the same technique on the 3. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Smith" To: Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 07:20 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal > Gadfrey. I should know this. > > Rebuilt the engine and it runs like a top. Only trouble, it has a big seep > from the valve cover gasket. I tried Justin's silicone gasket, but it seems > to be too long to fit the cover, and it seeps. I tried the cork gasket > installed dry, and it seeps, but I've shrunk from the notion of putting gasket > sealer down because pulling the cover to adjust the valves could wind up with > bits of cork finding their way into the lifter holes. > > And I haven't even switched to multi-viscosity synthetic oil yet! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire (Top down so it's summer til it snows.) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 17:56:43 2006 From: lbc.resto@comcast.net To: Triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 00:50:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Nearly Running Well I am nearly there. Rolled the barn-find out of the garage and attempted to start it. The key word is "attempted". Engine turned over, but no start. I am not surprised after 28 years in a barn. Firstly, no spark at the plugs. I tried using a dizzy with points etc. then with a Pertronix - no good. I have power to the coil, but I think that it is shot, so I will be getting a new one tomorrow. Secondly, fuel not getting to carbs. I have fuel to the pump and it was getting into the bowl, but no further. I took a pump diaphragm from a spare and fitted it, but still no further. I have just primed the line by backfilling from the carb inlet to the pump outlet. However, the gas fumes got to me so I haven't tried it yet. Anyone got any words of wisdom on this or the ignition (in case it isn't the coil)? Also, how do you set the dizzy timing with the Pertronix fitted? Thanks -- Ian 62 TR4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 18:14:01 2006 From: David Brady To: Triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 21:12:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Webers, Mariposa Fuel Pressure Reg Folks, Someone on the list once said that the Mariposa Filter King fuel pressure regulators use a diaphragm that is not compatible with current fuel formulations - I'm beginning to believe them... The Facet Red Top electric fuel pump that I'm running delivers 6.5 to 7.0 psi. I've been told that DCOE Webers, I'm running triples, like to have 2.5 psi or so, hence my Mariposa fuel pressure regulator. I may try running my Webers directly connected to the fuel pump. Can triple Webers handle 6.5psi. Anyone out the on list land know what the current draw (amps) is for the Facet Red Top - I'd like to know what I should fuse it at. Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 18:19:58 2006 From: "Scott Suhring" To: "Triumph Mail List" Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 21:17:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bushings for ZS carb I have a spare ZS carb for my '70 TR6 that is in excellent shape other than a restore of the basic parts and it needs new bushings (too much play in the shaft). I ordered the few parts I needed from Moss and when they came today I was surprised to find that what they call seals for the spindle are not bushings, but rubber seals. I spoke to Moss's tech about this (I was not upset with what they sent as I clearly did not pay attention to the description, and Moss was top notch in their service with me), specifically to find out the correct part I needed and to order them. After checking a number of cross reference books and even went as far as taking apart their $125 master rebuild kit, the conclusion he came to was they do not supply the bushings, which was surprising to both of us. He gave me the number for Joe Curto, as he is the expert on ZS carbs and might help. My question to the list has anyone else had difficulty buying bushings for their ZS Carb rebuild and if not, where did you get the bushings? Vici Brit only lists the seals (which are rubber and just like what Moss sent me). I didn't try TRF yet. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 18:22:58 2006 From: "Jim Muller" To: Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 21:21:16 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Car Storage On 2 Oct 2006 at 14:42, Randall wrote: > it's not unusual for the wiring, etc. to leak a small > amount of current due to dirt and whatnot. I realize you guys are probably running generators but I seem to recall that the leakage of the diodes in an alternator is high enough that when left "running" over 4 months the total lost charge is significant. Of course, I'm remembering that from some years ago. Anyway, the point is that disconnecting that battery is too easy to be left undone. -- Jim Muller jimmuller@rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 18:47:40 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: terryrs@adelphia.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 21:46:03 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal In a message dated 10/2/2006 6:24:09 PM Central Standard Time, terryrs@adelphia.net writes: > Rebuilt the engine and it runs like a top. Only trouble, it has a big seep > from the valve cover gasket. I tried Justin's silicone gasket, but it seems > to be too long to fit the cover, and it seeps. I tried the cork gasket > installed dry, and it seeps, but I've shrunk from the notion of putting > gasket > sealer down because pulling the cover to adjust the valves could wind up > with > bits of cork finding their way into the lifter holes. > Many folks use sealer on one side only. Usually the cover side so the gasket comes off with the cover. I like to seal the gasket to the block. That way the gasket will: 1) help hold the cover's shape rather than sliding off the head when the nuts are cranked too tight and the cover deforms and 2) give the oil a slightly better chance of falling into the head recess instead of the head outside. If you look at the valve cover you will see a ridge running along the inside of the gasket mating surface. Oil running down the inside of the valve cover will drip off of this ridge and onto the inside of the gasket. If the gasket is sealed to the head it can't escape via the gasket/head interface. BTW most valve covers leak because the nuts have been overtightened and the cover is tweeked. So avoid the urge to keep tightening ina n attempt to stop the leak. (I learned that from this list so it might be bogus) Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 18:55:51 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" , Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 18:54:04 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Timing chain - update! > Set engine to TDC & make sure the cam is in the > correct position (#7 &8 Rocker arms should be closed > fully. Thus sitting on the side of their lobes ready > to open). Unfortunately, that's not quite right. There is a lot of cam rotation where both valves are fully closed, almost the entire compression and power strokes. Instead, you want to look for the overlap period, where both valves are normally open slightly (exhaust closing and intake opening). The factory cam is timed "straight up" meaning both valves are open equally at TDC. One way to find this point is to set both valves on #1 cylinder (or #4) to a larger than usual gap, then measure the gap when you think the cam is at TDC. I don't recall the gap to use offhand, something like .050", but the exact value is not important as long as it's equal for both valves, and big enough to leave some gap at the center of the overlap period (what the book calls "point of balance"). > Install the Gasket on the T-Cover & > assemble. Don't forget the fiber washer that goes on the timing cover support stud. Good place for some Hylomar, IMO. > I HOPE that you marked the order or the > bolts when you 1st removed the T-Cover, because there > is one (1) short bolt that is to be placed back in the > came hole as before, as written on my repair manual. Hmm, I don't remember that way. ISTR there were maybe 3 different lengths of bolts, with the one that gets the ground strap from the frame being longer than all the others. But it's been a long time, perhaps I'm mistaken. At any rate, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out bolt lengths. As a rule of thumb, for any bolt that screws into a blind hole, you can test it by screwing it in by hand without a lock washer. If the head will come up tight under those conditions, it's probably not too long. And if it takes a minimum of 7 turns for a coarse thread or 10 turns for a fine thread, it's probably not too short. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 19:42:57 2006 From: To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 20:41:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] british motoring festival this saturday october 7, 2006 in colorado springs, co goto: http://jaglr.rednoland.com/events.htm?bhcp=1 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 19:45:10 2006 From: Cameron Rooke To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 19:44:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage Does anyone trickle-charge their batteries over the winter? That is what I do with my RV batteries using a small solar panel. My understanding is that if you let batteries discharge, they will eventually lose their ability to maintain a charge down the road. For cheap batteries, this could be over the course of a single winter. Happened to me once. Cameron '71 GT6 ----- Original Message ---- From: Jim Muller To: triumphs@autox.team.net Sent: Monday, October 2, 2006 9:21:16 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Car Storage On 2 Oct 2006 at 14:42, Randall wrote: > it's not unusual for the wiring, etc. to leak a small > amount of current due to dirt and whatnot. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 20:17:30 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: "Scott Suhring" Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 03:15:49 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Bushings for ZS carb -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Scott Suhring" Joe Curto I have had MANY positive experiences with Joe Curto, and would recommend him for carb parts (Z-S and SU) without hesitation. NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 20:19:20 2006 From: "Mark Hooper" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 23:18:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of In an attempt to meet aesthetic, performance and sound level goals, I have Frankenstein's exhaust system installed on my TR6. I have a 6:1 header feeding a y-pipe going to two Falcon SS mufflers. The muffler feed pipes each have 2 motorcycle baffles inserted. Sounds like an odd setup, but has given me nice rumble at idle and slow cruise, seemingly plenty of pull from start and can still talk on the highway. Nice twin pipe look too. Fuel consumption over 20 mpg. I thought all was well. However, I'm now chasing down something odd in the form of a lack of power at higher speeds (80+) . I had the car in the shop last week for a small re-welding job on the rear frame cross-member that turned into $3K of all sorts of things up to and including replacing the timing chain and cover. Bet you didn't know the rear shocks and the timing chain were related did you? Neither did I... Anyway the point is that with the timing chain wildly loose and now replaced I thought I would do a little tuning up. The mechanic had mentioned noticing that she didn't seem strong above 80mph anymore. So me brother in law and I grabbed a porto-GPS and headed out onto the highway. Sure enough, I seem to be having trouble getting the car above 85mph. In the old days when funning, she would just fly up the scale past 100 at which point I would run out of driveway and risk running into the yacht floating at the near end of the swimming pool. (yeah right, just seeing if you're still with me here) So, I've got regular twin ZS carbs, Crane Cams ignition and Jim S's roller rocker kit (wearing out it now seems). 25% O/D on the transmission. I noticed that the weak spot seems to be at around 3000 rpm, so I thought that perhaps the O/D is making it harder to push up into the power band. Perhaps if I want to go fast I have to engage it at higher speed. I just don't recall the problem in the past. I'm seriously wondering about that roller kit too. Memory says that its a 1.75 setup which Ted Schumacher swears to me is folly. Perhaps that is making things float at higher power. It's odd, because, as I say the car will pull to 5000+ going up a hill in 2nd and third. So, before I go nuts changing all sorts of things, I want to find out if the baffles are choking the engine. Perhaps I was wrong to think all was well there. Is there some sort of test or whatsit I can use to determine what's going on in there? Pressure sonsors, mechanicla ouija board etc. I mean the obvious thing to do is pull out the baffles and hit the highway again for a test run, but you all know the joy of separating exhaust pipes, even ones made of stainless. Your help humbly requested. Mark 1972 TR6 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 20:29:44 2006 From: John Wise <60TR3A@cox.net> To: Cameron Rooke , triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 20:28:00 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage At 7:44 PM -0700 2/10/06, Cameron Rooke wrote: >Does anyone trickle-charge their batteries over the winter? That is >what I do with my RV batteries using a small solar panel. My >understanding is that if you let batteries discharge, they will >eventually lose their ability to maintain a charge down the road. >For cheap batteries, this could be over the course of a single >winter. Happened to me once. There was a recent discussion of this issue on the Porsche listserve. The conclusion was that what you really want is a battery tender which varies output to match need rather than a steady trickle of power. Several writers suggested looking at http://www.batterytender.com John -- John A. Wise Glendale, AZ Email: 60TR3A@cox.net 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/index 1977 Porsche 911S http://home.earthlink.net/~johnwise/Porsche.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 2 20:39:51 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 20:38:44 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general > Anyway the point is that with the timing chain wildly loose and now replaced I > thought I would do a little tuning up. The mechanic had mentioned noticing > that she didn't seem strong above 80mph anymore. Personally, I would double-check, for myself, that the cam timing is correct. Starting with being sure the timing mark on the balancer hasn't moved. I've had "professionals" get it wrong before, and lack of power at high rpm is one possible result. It might be just coincidence, but ... Oh, and you need a longer driveway too Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 01:52:03 2006 From: "Paul Mitchell" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 10:49:07 +0200 Subject: [TR] Draining TR6... Didn't see this appear, and had no replies, so apologies if it's a re-post. ..and it is draining my energies. In my continuing efforts to get the car back to fell fettle before the South African summer arrives, I have been fixing the clutch, as you may remember. I finally found time to reinstall the tunnel and other interior bits today, but discovered another problem after a test drive. I have a water leak somewhere around the water pump. This looks like it ought to be very easy to remove for inspection, with unusually accessible bolts. Problem is, the book says to drain the system first, which is fine as I want to flush it out anyway. Trouble is, I can't see a good way of getting at the drain plug without removing a lot of other bits. Am I missing something? Is it possible to drain it without removing that plug? Any advice gratefully received as usual. Paul 74 TR6 Cape Town === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 04:27:20 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: "Mark Hooper" Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 11:23:10 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Mark Hooper" > So, before I go nuts changing all sorts of things, I want to find out if the > baffles are choking the engine. Mark, In my case, the switching of my old exhaust system ( a very worn out Super Sprint free flow, had a lifetime guarantee but they went out of business) to SuperTrapp mufflers resulted in no power at all above 4500, in an engine that used to pull happily to 6200. The SuperTrapps are headed for the dumpster. If the only change that you made was to the exhaust, it could be the problem. I'd sure like to know if that is what it turns out to be. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 06:06:13 2006 From: "Stasyszen, Jerry" To: nass@yahoogroups.com, triumphs@autox.team.net, Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 07:48:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] RE: >>NASS Digest Number 2540 Hello Lister, I am looking for a differential for a 76 Spitfire. I would prefer the 3.27:1 or 3.63:1 ratio if anyone has these also I would like to buy a weber carb and manifold and if I am correct I believe the weber set up will require a header as well. Anyone wnating to sell these items please email me at jerry.stasyszen@sbcglobal.net or OKCSpitfire@sbcglobal.net Thanks === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 07:21:08 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 07:11:00 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general Mark Hooper wrote: >So, before I go nuts changing all sorts of things, I want to find out if the >baffles are choking the engine. Perhaps I was wrong to think all was well >there. Is there some sort of test or whatsit I can use to determine what's >going on in there?... > FWIW -- exhaust shops (Midas at least) can measure the back pressure in the system. They routinely do this when they suspect a partially clogged catalytic converter. They drill a small hole upstream from the suspected obstruction and insert a device that measures back-pressure. Afterwords they weld up the hole. One problem may be the lack of a benchmark for the measurement -- i.e. how much back pressure is a problem? Or maybe someone has an opinion on that. Geo H -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.11/460 - Release Date: 10/1/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 07:47:16 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: beaker211@rogers.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 10:43:14 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage In a message dated 10/2/2006 9:47:05 PM Central Standard Time, beaker211@rogers.com writes: > Does anyone trickle-charge their batteries over the winter? That is what I > do with my RV batteries using a small solar panel. My understanding is that > if you let batteries discharge, they will eventually lose their ability to > maintain a charge down the road. For cheap batteries, this could be over the > course of a single winter. Happened to me once. > Cranking batteries (as opposed to deep cycle batteries) have very thin plates with a maximized surface area to maximize cranking amps. During discharge the lead from one plate will dissolve into the electrolyte and with these thin plates some of the plate surface will disappear altogether. When recharged, the lead is deposited on the remaining plate structure and the result is less surface area and less cranking current capability. I have heard estimates that letting a battery totally discharge and then recharging it will result in a 50% reduction in battery capacity. I don't know if I believe that number but in my experience a few successive discharge-recharge cycles will render a battery quite weak indeed. But batteries are way oversized for most conditions anyway. The critical conditions are very cold temperatures where battery capacity is reduced and cranking current requirements are the most. And since we rarely drive our cars in those conditions a singe or even two complete discharges will not result in noticeable degradation but will show up in a shortened battery life. Trickle charging may not be any good for the battery either. You need to use a voltage regulated charger or battery maintainer or you will overcharge a battery even with a small charger. Overcharged batteries will break up water into oxygen and hydrogen and these gases escape. Most batteries, especially sealed batteries, have a mechanism to recombine the gases and tolerate some overcharging but this is technique is not 100% effective and prolonged overcharging will eventually cause trouble. NiCad batteries, on the other hand, will tolerate this kind of trickle charge but the chemistry is quite different and the technique doesn't translate to lead-acid batteries. But small battery tenders are available and quite cheap. I bought a pair from Horrible Freight a while back on sale for about $6 each. That's too cheap to pass up. Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:03:44 2006 From: To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 09:52:41 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Overdrive Additions Hello All, I currently have a non-overdrive all synchro gearbox on my TR4, but was just able to purchase a type A overdrive on Ebay from Australia. I know that I will need a different mainshaft, but if I were planning on taking this in to a local shop for conversion, what parts should I try to secure before the work can begin. Thanks, Rich 61 TR4 CT1468LO (Soon to have overdrive) Lansdale PA === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:13:10 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: paul@cynthesys.co.za, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 11:00:14 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Draining TR6... In a message dated 10/3/2006 3:54:08 AM Central Standard Time, paul@cynthesys.co.za writes: > ..and it is draining my energies. In my continuing efforts to get the car > back to fell fettle before the South African summer arrives, I have been > fixing the clutch, as you may remember. I finally found time to reinstall > the tunnel and other interior bits today, but discovered another problem > after a test drive. I have a water leak somewhere around the water pump. > This looks like it ought to be very easy to remove for inspection, with > unusually accessible bolts. Problem is, the book says to drain the system > first, which is fine as I want to flush it out anyway. Trouble is, I can't > see a good way of getting at the drain plug without removing a lot of other > bits. Am I missing something? Is it possible to drain it without removing > that plug? > That tap on the side of the block is likely blocked anyway. What most of us do is pull the bottom radiator hose to drain the head and radiator and then stick a pan under the front of the engine and pop the water pump off. with any luck most of the resulting gusher will be caught by the pan. Do this over some absorbent like cardboard or cat litter to soak up the rest. Good luck Dave 71 TR6 St. Louis, MO USA === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:17:35 2006 From: Cameron Rooke To: Dave1massey@cs.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 08:13:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage Perhaps my use of the term 'trickle charge' was inappropriate? The solar panels I use to keep my RV batteries charged over the winter have regulators to prevent over-charging and safeguards to prevent draining the battery as well. The one battery I didn't hookup to a panel a few years ago did not survive the winter (it was kept indoors, so no freezing issues here). It simply would not hold a charge once spring came around. Granted, it was a smaller, inexpensive battery, but still it lost its ability to maintain a charge. I suspect it was for the same reason you descibe with respect to the chemical processes involved with automotive batteries. Cameron '71 GT6 ----- Original Message ---- From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: beaker211@rogers.com; triumphs@autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2006 10:43:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage ... Trickle charging may not be any good for the battery either. You need to use a voltage regulated charger or battery maintainer or you will overcharge a battery even with a small charger. ... Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:20:46 2006 From: zoboherald@aol.com To: Dave1massey@cs.com, paul@cynthesys.co.za, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 11:14:48 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Draining TR6... -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey@cs.com That tap on the side of the block is likely blocked anyway. What most of us do is pull the bottom radiator hose to drain the head and radiator and then stick a pan under the front of the engine and pop the water pump off. with any luck most of the resulting gusher will be caught by the pan. Do this over some absorbent like cardboard or cat litter to soak up the rest. ==AM== Unless that "blocked" tap is actually an undrilled hole (kinda doubt it, but???), make the effort to get to it, open it and probe around until water/coolant gushes out of there as well. Yeah, I know the starter is under that on a TR6, so cover it as best you can if you're worried about it. IMO, there's a 99% chance that you WILL improve cooling and lower temperatures somewhat after doing this. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:22:28 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: beaker211@rogers.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 11:18:16 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Car Storage In a message dated 10/3/2006 10:13:25 AM Central Standard Time, beaker211@rogers.com writes: > The solar panels I use to keep my RV batteries charged over the winter have > regulators to prevent over-charging and safeguards to prevent draining the > battery as well. The one battery I didn't hookup to a panel a few years ago > did not survive the winter (it was kept indoors, so no freezing issues here). > It simply would not hold a charge once spring came around. Granted, it was a > smaller, inexpensive battery, but still it lost its ability to maintain a > charge. I suspect it was for the same reason you descibe with respect to the > chemical processes involved with automotive batteries. > Sounds like you have a purpose built battery maintaining system. This is good. Frankly, I was surprised when my car cranked over and started after 11 months. The battery was not on a charger or maintainer or anything. Just disconnected. Batteries will self-discharge but the rate depends on a lot of things and all the stars lined up for me on this one. Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:42:10 2006 From: David Brady To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 11:35:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carter Fuel Pump Folks, I'm considering scrapping my Facet/Filter King combo in favor of a Carter Rotary Vane Fuel Pump. Apparently the Carter 4070 pump puts out 4 psi negating the need for a pressure regulator. This will be used on my triple DCOE TR250. Any experience with Carter fuel pumps out there? TIA, David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 08:52:56 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: David Brady , triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 15:45:13 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Carter Fuel Pump -------------- Original message -------------- From: David Brady > Folks, > > I'm considering scrapping my Facet/Filter King combo > in favor of a Carter Rotary Vane Fuel Pump. Apparently > the Carter 4070 pump puts out 4 psi negating the need > for a pressure regulator. This will be used on my triple > DCOE TR250. Any experience with Carter fuel pumps > out there? I raced with a Carter rotary for 7 years and never had a fuel pump issue of any kind. One of the fastest TR3's in the country also runs a Carter, so from that limited sample I think you are okay. You need to confirm that 4 psi is what the Carter is actually putting out and whether the 4 psi can be handled by the Webers without issues. HTH, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U 63 TR4 VSCDA Group 2 #58 Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 10:47:53 2006 From: pethier@comcast.net To: David Brady , Triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 17:39:16 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Webers, Mariposa Fuel Pressure Reg > The Facet Red Top electric fuel pump that I'm running delivers > 6.5 to 7.0 psi. I've been told that DCOE Webers, I'm running > triples, like to have 2.5 psi or so, hence my Mariposa fuel > pressure regulator. I may try running my Webers directly > connected to the fuel pump. Can triple Webers handle 6.5psi. Too much pressure will have fuel leaks. Cutting pressure down with a regulator will restrict volume. I think the best solution is to buy a low-pressure Facet pump and put both the high-pressure pump and the regulator on Ebay. I had no complaints running the low-pressure Facet on my Weber in my Europa. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 10:58:22 2006 From: "Todd Bermudez" To: richhalpern@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 13:54:49 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Overdrive Additions contact John Esposito @ http://www.quantumechanics.com/ he should be able to tell you all. From: Reply-To: To: triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Overdrive Additions Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 09:52:41 -0500 (CDT) Hello All, I currently have a non-overdrive all synchro gearbox on my TR4, but was just able to purchase a type A overdrive on Ebay from Australia. I know that I will need a different mainshaft, but if I were planning on taking this in to a local shop for conversion, what parts should I try to secure before the work can begin. Thanks, Rich 61 TR4 CT1468LO (Soon to have overdrive) Lansdale PA === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 11:11:31 2006 From: "Doug" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 11:08:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Exhaust Manifold vs SS Headers I am currently going through a frame-up on my '69 TR6. This includes balancing, porting, camshaft upgrade, & compression to about 9.6:1. Staying with stock ZS carbs but working through an upgrade of the distributor. Memory has it that my stock exhaust is a cast iron to a single exhaust system. On talking to the people overhauling the engine, they said I should either upgrade the exhaust manifold to the twin-pipe exhaust used on later year TR6's or go to a S/S exhaust header. The negative on the S/S exhaust header is that about every 20K miles I will need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket. They say that this is due to the different metals - cast iron for the block and head vs. S/S for the header. They expand and contract at different rates and therefore create problems for the exhaust gasket. Any thoughts or recommendations on this? I have to replace the single (Stock) manifold anyway due to a crack in its flange. Doug Fraser 69 TR6 Sammamish, WA === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 11:21:10 2006 From: "Ian" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 14:12:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead .The barn find TR4 went down the street under its own power, while frightening small children and animals due to a temporary exhaust system that is at least 28 years old. I got it into 3rd so it appears that the clutch wasn't sticking. It went where I pointed it and even stopped when commanded. Now to the point. What are the recommendations for cylinder head re-torquing and when? I have a copper head gasket from Moss. -- Ian 62 TR4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 11:23:40 2006 From: KURT JOHNSON To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 11:20:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 towing just wanted to know if there are any concerns/ problems with towing a tr6 with a 2 wheeled tow dolly thanks kurt johnson Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 11:23:42 2006 From: "Bruce Cairns, D.D.S." To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 11:13:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] The "Top Gear" gang toasts the TR6 After watching Skip's nice slide show of the Half Moon Bay gathering, I clicked on the following link which celebrates the virtues of the TR6. All of you fellow "6" owners, enjoy! Cheers, Bruce Cairns '74 TR6 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGh_cXJawDQ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 11:31:11 2006 From: pethier@comcast.net To: Greg Perry , Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 18:23:07 +0000 Subject: RE: [TR] Electric troubleshooting help From: Greg Perry > Hello, > > One can put a capacitor inline to smooth out the voltage fluctuations. If my > memory serves me correctly, I used two 2,000 microFarad capacitors in parallel > for a total of 4,000 microFarads. This was probably overkill, but was available > for the job at hand. Not inline. Capacitors for filtering go from hot to ground. A "PI" filter works well: Capacitor to ground, then an inline coil, then another capacitor to ground. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 13:25:27 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: kajohns64@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 16:12:38 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 towing In a message dated 10/3/2006 1:25:33 PM Central Standard Time, kajohns64@yahoo.com writes: > just wanted to know if there are any concerns/ > problems with towing a tr6 with a 2 wheeled tow dolly > Depends on how far. If you are going more than a couple of miles I recommend disconnecting the drive shaft from the differential. Otherwise the transmission main shaft will be turning but there will be no lubrication (which is provided by the lay gear cluster which only turns when the engine turns). Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 13:47:38 2006 From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Bruce Cairns, D.D.S.'" , Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 16:43:03 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] The "Top Gear" gang toasts the TR6 What a great video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGh_cXJawDQ ....though our friends driving TRs other then the TR6 may not like the "feminine" references made to their TRs. There's also a bunch of other TR videos on YouTube if you poke around. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Cairns, D.D.S. Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 2:14 PM To: triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: [TR] The "Top Gear" gang toasts the TR6 After watching Skip's nice slide show of the Half Moon Bay gathering, I clicked on the following link which celebrates the virtues of the TR6. All of you fellow "6" owners, enjoy! Cheers, Bruce Cairns '74 TR6 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGh_cXJawDQ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/461 - Release Date: 10/2/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 14:11:12 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: Dave1massey@cs.com, kajohns64@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 20:59:50 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 towing -------------- Original message -------------- From: Dave1massey@cs.com > In a message dated 10/3/2006 1:25:33 PM Central Standard Time, > kajohns64@yahoo.com writes: > > just wanted to know if there are any concerns/ > > problems with towing a tr6 with a 2 wheeled tow dolly > > > Depends on how far. If you are going more than a couple of miles I recommend disconnecting the drive shaft from the differential. Otherwise the transmission main shaft will be turning but there will be no lubrication (which is provided by the lay gear cluster which only turns when the engine turns). Unless, of course, you load the rear axle on the dolly and tow the car backwards. I've seen this done with a Stag. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 15:05:12 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 15:00:02 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] tr6 towing > Unless, of course, you load the rear axle on the dolly and > tow the car backwards. I've seen this done with a Stag. I tried that with a Sports 6 ... result was that it was just fine up to 51 mph. At precisely 52 mph it started whipping violently back and forth across the road. Fortunately I was on a deserted country road, giving me space & time to get it under control. Next time I'll just drop the driveshaft & do it right. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 15:52:56 2006 From: "Terry Smith" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 18:50:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal Ahah! Freeze the silicone gasket! Why the heck didn't I think of that! (Uhm, probably for a million reasons I and others with fragile egos prefer not to go into.) I'll give it a try. Thanks, Randall, and everyone else. Terry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Terry Smith'" ; Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 7:39 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Valve Cover Seal >> Rebuilt the engine and it runs like a top. Only trouble, it >> has a big seep >> from the valve cover gasket. I tried Justin's silicone >> gasket, but it seems >> to be too long to fit the cover, and it seeps. > > Justin's silicone gaskets have to be installed cold (some racers throw > them > in the ice chest for rapid track-side changes). Even then, it takes some > finesse to get them stuffed into place. But if you have the gasket > properly > in place (with the locater ridge visible all around the cover except where > it's cut away to clear the head nuts), and still have seepage, I would > suggest there is something else wrong. > > Have you checked your rocker cover gasket surface for flatness ? Also > that > it meets the surfaces on the head ? They sometimes bow out until they > hang > over the edge above the plugs ... > >> I tried the cork gasket >> installed dry, and it seeps, but I've shrunk from the notion >> of putting gasket >> sealer down because pulling the cover to adjust the valves >> could wind up with >> bits of cork finding their way into the lifter holes. > > What I did before switching to Justin's gasket was to glue the cork gasket > to the valve cover with gasket cement (Permatex or similar), then use a > light coating of Hylomar between the gasket and the head. The Hylomar is > much less aggressive than the Permatex and won't tear the cork. This > scheme > allowed me to reuse the same gasket for years, until it finally shrunk so > much that it opened a gap at one corner. > > And then I could work on scraping away the Permatex and old gasket with > the > cover on the bench, away from the open motor. > > Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 15:54:01 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: emanteno@comcast.net, kajohns64@yahoo.com, Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 18:51:51 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 towing In a message dated 10/3/2006 3:59:43 PM Central Standard Time, emanteno@comcast.net writes: > >Depends on how far. If you are going more than a couple of miles I > recommend disconnecting the drive shaft from the differential. Otherwise the > transmission main shaft will be turning but there will be no lubrication (which is > provided by the lay gear cluster which only turns when the engine turns). > > > > Unless, of course, you load the rear axle on the dolly and tow the car > backwards. I've seen this done with a Stag. > Depends on how much you trust the steering wheel lock. Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 16:15:48 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Ian'" , Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 16:10:27 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead > Now to the point. What are the recommendations for cylinder > head re-torquing > and when? I have a copper head gasket from Moss. I pretty much follow the book, which ISTR recommends one retorque after 500 miles. Back off each nut in turn, and then torque it down to the given value (100-105 ftlb ?). It's important to keep the nut moving until the final torque is reached ... if you stop within 10 or 20 ftlb of the final value, then you should back off and try again. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 16:42:33 2006 From: "Randall" To: , Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 16:33:47 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Overdrive Additions > I currently have a non-overdrive all synchro gearbox on my > TR4, but was just able to purchase a type A overdrive on Ebay > from Australia. I know that I will need a different > mainshaft, but if I were planning on taking this in to a > local shop for conversion, what parts should I try to secure > before the work can begin. You'll need the adapter plate for the back of the gearbox. Since the box has to come apart to install the mainshaft, now would be a good time for new synchro rings; gaskets and seals. I'd probably do at least the countershaft thrust washers as well, possibly more depending on how tired the box is. The top cover also has to come apart to install the (2) isolator switches, so if there is any sign of leakage from the shifter shaft seals, now is the time to replace them as well. (Note that the currently available seals don't always fit and may need packing washers to seal. Just mention this in the instructions to your shop, they should know what to do.) The isolator switches are a non-standard metric thread, so you might need to find a tap for them. I would also plan to install the cross-bolt, to reinforce the taper pin in the clutch shaft. Good time to change the bushings the clutch shaft rides in, too. Then there's the question of how many bits are missing from the OD itself, and whether they are in good shape. Make sure you've got the pump cam and the clutch springs, and the clutch springs aren't "tired". Double-check that you've got the right speedo drive gears, and the correct rear flange. I'd want to check the operating pressure before installing it, too. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 16:49:46 2006 From: TR250Driver@aol.com To: Lbc.Resto@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 19:47:00 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead In a message dated 10/3/2006 2:13:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Lbc.Resto@comcast.net writes: The barn find TR4 went down the street under its own power, while frightening small children and animals due to a temporary exhaust system that is at least 28 years old. I got it into 3rd so it appears that the clutch wasn't sticking. It went where I pointed it and even stopped when commanded. Now to the point. What are the recommendations for cylinder head re-torquing and when? I have a copper head gasket from Moss. -- Ian 62 TR4 Very Cool! Ian could you share the commission number? I would be interested in the bonnet bubble or power bulge. Short or long? Once I have the # I may have other questions. Thanks, Darrell === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 17:13:28 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 17:10:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 towing emanteno@comcast.net wrote: >Unless, of course, you load the rear axle on the dolly and tow the car backwards... > But not if it has wire wheels. Geo -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.11/460 - Release Date: 10/1/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 17:45:17 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 20:43:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3s vs. TR4s again Its kinda funny the way the list wants to wax nostalgic on most any question. I think I might have received a dozen emails concerning my inquiry on TR3 vs. TR4 experience. The questions I originally asked were more along the lines of rough empirical measurements rather than the female stuff. Some thought I was asking, Which one was a better car? Guys your slipping? (Aging?) As you know, I am restoring a TR3 and I think Im right in saying that all TR4s (not TR4As) used the same chassis- right? And so, they had the same ground clearance-right? yet I think the 4s had different seats? Did they tilt differently? Was the driver equally close to the steering wheel and windshield? Oops. . windscreen. Although not empirical, did it feel different? Thanks, Paul Dorsey TR3A -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/461 - Release Date: 10/2/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 18:14:28 2006 From: David Brady To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:10:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] compression test Folks, I did a compression test on my TR250 today. Here's what I got: cylinder, pressure (psi) 1, 185 2, 190 3, 195 4, 195 5, 185 6, 190 What do you guys think of the spread here? 185 to 195 is a 5% delta. The engine has maybe 1000 miles on her. I suppose the rings may still seat a bit. Thanks, David Brady '68TR250, CD8124L === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 18:14:32 2006 From: "Martin Sukey" To: "'Mark Hooper'" , Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 21:13:26 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general I vote with Randall. It sounds like the cam timing is a tooth or so different than what it was before. Marty -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 11:19 PM To: triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 18:15:09 2006 From: David Brady To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:13:18 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead Randall, do you do the head re-torque with the engine warmed up or with the engine cold? David B '68 TR250 CD8124L Randall wrote: > I pretty much follow the book, which ISTR recommends one retorque after 500 > miles. Back off each nut in turn, and then torque it down to the given > value (100-105 ftlb ?). > > It's important to keep the nut moving until the final torque is reached ... > if you stop within 10 or 20 ftlb of the final value, then you should back > off and try again. > > Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 18:41:49 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 18:37:05 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead > Randall, do you do the head re-torque with the engine warmed > up or with the engine cold? As per Triumph recommendation : cold. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 18:42:46 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 18:41:36 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] compression test > I did a compression test on my TR250 today. Here's > what I got: > > cylinder, pressure (psi) > 1, 185 > 2, 190 > 3, 195 > 4, 195 > 5, 185 > 6, 190 > > What do you guys think of the spread here? 185 to 195 is > a 5% delta. Normally you look at the spread from the mean, making that a +/- 2.5% variation. Quite good IMO, I wouldn't worry about it. There is almost always some small variation, unless you were very careful to blueprint the motor while rebuilding it. And there is really little point in that, unless you're building a race motor. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 20:01:50 2006 From: "Jim Muller" To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 22:59:28 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] compression test On 3 Oct 2006 at 21:10, David Brady wrote: > cylinder, pressure (psi) > 1, 185 > 2, 190 > 3, 195 > 4, 195 > 5, 185 > 6, 190 Those numbers look great. You can probably get more variation than that by mis-setting your valves. -- Jim Muller jimmuller@rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 20:03:15 2006 From: "Lou Metelko" To: Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 23:03:08 -0500 Subject: Re: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 8:37 PM Subject: RE: [TR] One more Triumph back from the dead > > Randall, do you do the head re-torque with the engine warmed > > up or with the engine cold? > > As per Triumph recommendation : cold. > > Randall The Haynes TR2 thru the 4A with the "Autocar" cutaway of a 4A on the cover, make no mention of a preference for hot or cold. The early Service Instruction Manual (third edition (sixth printing) says that ".....cylinder head nuts should be checked for tightness with the engine hot". At least both sources agree that the check should be done at 500 miles. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 20:28:39 2006 From: d spence To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 21:26:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Re: towing TR6 Do NOT do this if you have wire wheels!!!!! On Tuesday, October 3, 2006, at 04:33 PM, Triumphs@Autox.team.net daily digest wrote: > Unless, of course, you load the rear axle on the dolly and tow the car > backwards. I've seen this done with a Stag. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 21:00:22 2006 From: "Mark Hooper" To: "Martin Sukey" , Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 23:53:13 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general In the words of Philip Fry, "Oh Crud!" You can imagine I will have to do some testing, but I can only hope that they just slapped on the chain and didn't adjust the timing. That would put things way off without requiring me to tear apart the front end (or face another warranty battle). It could well be you're all right since the low end torque seems to be quite poor off the start whereas before the fix she had a very good pull. Now to hope that it's adjustment, not wrong tooth/chain placement. Mark ________________________________ From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net on behalf of Martin Sukey Sent: Tue 03/10/2006 9:13 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way I vote with Randall. It sounds like the cam timing is a tooth or so different than what it was before. Marty === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Tue Oct 3 23:27:33 2006 From: CarlSereda@aol.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net, duane247@comcast.net, Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 02:20:35 EDT Subject: [TR] =?UTF-8?Q?Check=20"eBay.co.uk:=20TR4=20TR5=20**=20RH=20front=20W?= Hello, Does anyone know if 'lower front fender repair panels' are being made for TR4/4A/5/250's anywhere? Like the older one shown here below on eBayUK? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250033107654 Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 .. needing both right and left front lower fender repair panels === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 02:04:14 2006 From: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 21:58:21 +1300 Subject: [TR] Wheel bearings I have replaced my rotors and the wheel bearings on both front hubs. How far in do I tap the rear seal that has the felt attached? I have tapped it in using a hammer onto a piece of wood. Its sitting just below the top of the hub. Does it need to go further in? Jim Vass 1962 TR4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 04:44:03 2006 From: Barry Schwartz To: David Brady Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 04:41:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Carter Fuel Pump I replaced the failed (lasted only 4 months) Facet pump on my 40 ford pickup with a Carter Rotary Vane (the same design as the 4070, but for 7 psi) and it's been working great. It is however a little noisy, even mounted on rubber isolation mounts on the frame in the rear I can here it whine in the cab over the rumble of a 289 at idle, so you might want to mount it far and low. I kind of like it since I can tell if I have a pump failure, but others may find it objectionable. ************************************ >I'm considering scrapping my Facet/Filter King combo >in favor of a Carter Rotary Vane Fuel Pump. Apparently >the Carter 4070 pump puts out 4 psi negating the need >for a pressure regulator. This will be used on my triple >DCOE TR250. Any experience with Carter fuel pumps >out there? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/461 - Release Date: 10/2/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 04:51:43 2006 From: Robert Schmuelling To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 07:46:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag Conversion from 4 Speed Manual to Overdrive Can anyone provide a step by step on the conversion of a 4 Speed Manual Transmission to Overdrive. My Car (a '73 with a '72 engine) was originally an automatic that the PO converted to 4 speed. I have purchased separately the Laycock J Type Overdrive, and the Hollow Gear Shift with wiring. Any help would be appreciated. Regards, Rob === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 05:35:45 2006 From: Chip19474@aol.com To: dmb993@earthlink.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 08:33:20 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] compression test In a message dated 10/3/2006 9:11:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dmb993@earthlink.net writes: > What do you guys think of the spread here? David, Absolutely no problem - good readings. I had similar variations on my rebuilt TR6 motor for nearly 2000 miles then the "gaps" closed. At 1000 miles you're pretty much past the critical "breakin" period - from this point, the rings will seat at a natural pace assuming that you're still diligent with normal engine care like oil/filter changes, maintaining coolant levels, etc. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA USA '76 TR6 CF57822U === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 05:38:10 2006 From: Runamok714@aol.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 08:30:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Question Hello List I am rebuilding the fuel pump in my 58 TR3. The service manual states that the diaphragm tab should be facing the engine during insertion and a quarter turn to the right after installation. Using the Moss rebuild kit the rod key does not line up with the link lever unless it is rotated 1/4 turn to the left of center and locks in place at 1/4 turn to right.This is assuming that the key should be 90 degrees from the slot in the link lever. Is this a change in the diaphragm or is there something I am missing ? Thanks Michael 58 TR3 _runamok714@aol.com_ (mailto:runamok714@aol.com) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 05:58:14 2006 From: Chip19474@aol.com To: cairnsbk@sbcglobal.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 08:55:34 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] The "Top Gear" gang toasts the TR6 Bruce, Thanks - great video. I sent the link to our club director for distribution to our club members.....it reminds me of how much more performance the PI version had when new.....I always wonder how an exported PI TR6 (if allowed by the feds) may have changed sales figures in the USA back in the 1970's? I know that I was always happy with the performance of my new '69 TR6 back in 1969 but then the Datsun 240Z was introduced and American muscle/pony cars got faster....but. it wasn't all about speed, was it:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA USA '76 TR6 CF57822U === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 06:23:46 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 06:11:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Draining TR at the block Hi List! ==AM== Unless that "blocked" tap ..., make the effort to get to it, open it and probe around until water/coolant gushes out of there as well. ...so cover it as best you can if you're worried about it. ... -Andy Mace +++++++++++++++++++++++++ Andy has a VERY good point! Suggestion: AFTER one gets the coolant to flow as a 'gusher', the next time you want to drain at that tap, connect a clear tube running from the tap to the drain pan that's under the rad. tap. you can collect all the coolant at 1 time & in 1 spot. Plus being able to view the condition of the coolant as it is flowing through the clear tube. The added plus is that you don't get a drop of coolant on the starter, either. It works for me! -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 06:47:50 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 06:43:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] High idle vs low idle-summary Hi List! Well, you've all read what was stated on this list, & I wish to add what others have said to me by not posting it on the list. Basicaly, the TR2/3 manual states that the idle should be set at 500 RPM's. I thought that my TR4/A manual stated 850, but I checked it to find out that I was wrong. It's also 500 RPM's. Others said that running at a lower RPM wouldn't hurt the engine, as long as Oil pressure was up. One person wrote that some people (I gather at a club meeting or so), will have a contest to see 'How low can you go!'. Remember we are STILL talking about engine idle speed. :>0 Thanks for everyones input, whiched helped me find out a correction in my running of my engine's RPM's. -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 08:10:33 2006 From: kinderlehrer@comcast.net To: Barry Schwartz Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 15:05:39 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Carter Fuel Pump I think the Facet pumps are very intolerant of any debris. Putting a filter in front of it may help. Bob -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Barry Schwartz > I replaced the failed (lasted only 4 months) Facet pump on my 40 ford > pickup with a Carter Rotary Vane (the same design as the 4070, but for 7 > psi) and it's been working great. It is however a little noisy, even > mounted on rubber isolation mounts on the frame in the rear I can here it > whine in the cab over the rumble of a 289 at idle, so you might want to > mount it far and low. > I kind of like it since I can tell if I have a pump failure, but others may > find it objectionable. > ************************************ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 10:38:22 2006 From: Barry Schwartz To: kinderlehrer@comcast.net Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 10:26:42 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Carter Fuel Pump Had a filter in front, large canister type with replaceable 10 micron filter -pump just failed - on the the other hand I have a Facet pump on my Spitfire and it's been running for over fifteen years so maybe the newer ones just aren't as good anymore - *************************************** >I think the Facet pumps are very intolerant of any debris. Putting a filter in front of it may help. > Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/462 - Release Date: 10/3/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 11:44:17 2006 From: CarlSereda@aol.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 14:31:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR4/5 Lower front WING repair panels Listers, RevingtonTR has the lower TR4/4A/5/250 front fender repair panels for about US$165 ea. Regards all, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 In a message dated 10/04/06 1:47:51 AM, martin@revingtontr.com writes: << Hi Carl, Good to hear from you. Yes, we have these. Part numbers 950109RP & 950110RP @ #87.50 each. Regards, Martin >> Return-Path: Received: from rly-xm05.mx.aol.com (rly-xm05.mail.aol.com [172.20.83.106]) by air-xm03.mail.aol.com (v112_r1.5) with ESMTP id MAILINXM32-6164523751d300; Wed, 04 Oct 2006 04:47:51 -0400 Received: from revingtontr.com (adsl1-p1463.ras.network-i.net [212.21.118.193]) by rly-xm05.mx.aol.com (v112_r1.5) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINXM58-6164523751d300; Wed, 04 Oct 2006 04:47:28 -0400 Content-class: urn:content-classes:message MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: TR4/5 Lower front WING repair panels X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft Exchange V6.5 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 09:47:26 +0100 Message-ID: Thread-Topic: TR4/5 Lower front WING repair panels Thread-Index: AcbnkbeZSLONaboHQCKYJklsHgPN9Q== From: "Martin Jay" To: X-AOL-IP: 212.21.118.193 X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version) X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain Hi Carl, Good to hear from you. Yes, we have these. Part numbers 950109RP & 950110RP @ #87.50 each. Regards, Martin === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 14:51:30 2006 From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts@charter.net> To: , "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:48:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] ball joint removal I believe i asked this question before , but I can't find the answer now. I think someone mentioned using two screw drivers. I can't seem to get enough leverage on them; also I don't think they are strong enough. The book calls for a special tool that looks like a big fork; which I don't have. i have removed the shock since I am putting polly bushings in. The bottom of the ball joint has an inset so I tried hitting it with set driver and a hammer, no luck. Its hard to get a good shot at it. I was told to remove the spring and the control arm; and I can see that that would give me a much better shot at it; but I am trying to avoid that. Any ideas? thanks, Al === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 15:36:55 2006 From: "Rick or Lori O" To: "'Alan Salvatore'" <6parts@charter.net>, Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 18:34:31 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] ball joint removal Alan That would be 2 big hammers placed at opposite sides of the joint yoke. Keep one hammer in contact with the yoke, and rap the other hammer soundly on the opposite site. Do this a few times and the tapered joint will pop out. Rick O. 72 TR6 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 15:36:59 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 15:33:47 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] ball joint removal > I think someone mentioned using two screw drivers. I can't > seem to get enough > leverage on them; also I don't think they are strong enough. I've not heard of that ... I agree, they aren't strong enough. Perhaps you were thinking of the "two BFH" approach ? > The book calls for a special tool that looks like a big fork; > which I don't have. They aren't very expensive, and are readily available, so my suggestion is to buy one. For example, HF sells a kit with 3 different sizes for $10. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38649 As I recall, they will ship anywhere in North America. I also picked up a different type of tool that is less violent. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html Some people have reported breaking these, but mine has worked fine the few times I've tried it. (I'm not particularly happy with Tool Warehouse, so I'm not recommending them. This was just a convenient link to illustrate the tool I'm talking about.) Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 16:20:00 2006 From: Bob Labuz To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts@charter.net> Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 19:14:46 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] ball joint removal On Wednesday 04 October 2006 05:48 pm, Alan Salvatore wrote: > I believe i asked this question before , but I can't find the answer now. > I think someone mentioned using two screw drivers. I can't seem to get > enough leverage on them; also I don't think they are strong enough. > > The book calls for a special tool that looks like a big fork; which I don't > have. > > i have removed the shock since I am putting polly bushings in. > The bottom of the ball joint has an inset so I tried hitting it with set > driver and a hammer, no luck. > Its hard to get a good shot at it. I was told to remove the spring and the > control arm; and I can see that that would give me a much better shot at > it; but I am trying to avoid that. > > Any ideas? > > thanks, > Al Alan, Both tools Randall highlights will work for ball joints. I have used both and I second Randall and recommend the 2nd tool. It is cast iron and I used it to remove the tie rod ends and ball joints from my TR4 project with no trouble. All I did was tighten the tool and tap with a small hammer, tighten and tap and the joints all separated. As Randall mentioned, the tool is a bit easier to use on both the parts and the mechanic. Other listeners have used this tool and it has broken but it worked great for me. As always, things are a bit easier if one has the right tools. Bob === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:00:53 2006 From: "Terry Smith" To: Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 19:58:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder I do love coffee, but confess to having an aversion to carrying a burning hot cup between my legs while I try to maneuver TR3A original worm steering. The usual suspects of VIP, Walmart, Autozone, don't seem to have a coffee cup holder that are snug for the console behind the shifter. Anybody solved this one? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:05:07 2006 From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts@charter.net> To: Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 20:04:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] ball joint removal Thanks for all the advice; I think I'll try to locate the Ball Joint Lifter, Randall mentioned , locally; if I can't find it I'll order it . Thanks again, Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 6:33 PM Subject: RE: [TR] ball joint removal >> I think someone mentioned using two screw drivers. I can't >> seem to get enough >> leverage on them; also I don't think they are strong enough. > > I've not heard of that ... I agree, they aren't strong enough. Perhaps > you > were thinking of the "two BFH" approach ? > >> The book calls for a special tool that looks like a big fork; >> which I don't have. > > They aren't very expensive, and are readily available, so my suggestion is > to buy one. For example, HF sells a kit with 3 different sizes for $10. > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38649 > As I recall, they will ship anywhere in North America. > > I also picked up a different type of tool that is less violent. > http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html > Some people have reported breaking these, but mine has worked fine the few > times I've tried it. > (I'm not particularly happy with Tool Warehouse, so I'm not recommending > them. This was just a convenient link to illustrate the tool I'm talking > about.) > > Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:05:39 2006 From: Adrian Jones To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 20:05:01 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Timing cover oil seal - which way round? Hi folks, Well, the package from Moss Motors arrived today. Included is the oil seal. Unfortunately it doesn't look like the one I banged out of the timing cover: http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a241/AdrianJones34/Seal-top.jpg http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a241/AdrianJones34/Seal-bottom.jpg The one on the left is the original one and, as you can see is totally enclosed in a metal case. The replacement has one side open. Question is which way round does this seal get pressed into the timing cover recess- I think it could physically go either way. If I had to guess I suppose the "open" side would be pushed in first - that way the seal would end up being totally enclosed. (The "open" side would be in contact with the metal of the recess - if that makes sense.) At the good advice of a list member, I ordered a 1/2 ton press from Horrible Fright ($30 + $8 shipping) but now I'm anxious to get started. What do you think my chances are of successfully "tapping" the new one place (using the old one as a drift). If I remember right, HF stuff takes about 2 weeks to get delivered. As usual, thanks in advance for any advice. Regards, Adrian TS58324 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:13:16 2006 From: "Jim Bauder" To: "Terry Smith" , Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:08:40 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder Terry, Moss offers a 'cup holder' that sits on the floor and is secured by the floor mat! I haven't tried it or seen it, but I did see it in their new catalog. Good luck, NFI and YMMV, Jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Smith Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 4:59 PM To: triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder I do love coffee, but confess to having an aversion to carrying a burning hot cup between my legs while I try to maneuver TR3A original worm steering. The usual suspects of VIP, Walmart, Autozone, don't seem to have a coffee cup holder that are snug for the console behind the shifter. Anybody solved this one? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:21:13 2006 From: "Martin Sukey" To: "'Mark Hooper'" , Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 20:19:01 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general Mark, a couple more thoughts. Is this a stock cam or an upgraded cam? If upgraded, did the shop have the specs to degree it in too? If not he would have probably used the factory timing marks and the settings might not be the same as the replacement cam. Another thought is your camshaft is shot, as a couple of the cam lobes are worn down. This would have nothing to do with the repair but would have been gradual. Marty -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 11:53 PM To: Martin Sukey; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way In the words of Philip Fry, "Oh Crud!" You can imagine I will have to do some testing, but I can only hope that they just slapped on the chain and didn't adjust the timing. That would put things way off without requiring me to tear apart the front end (or face another warranty battle). It could well be you're all right since the low end torque seems to be quite poor off the start whereas before the fix she had a very good pull. Now to hope that it's adjustment, not wrong tooth/chain placement. Mark ________________________________ From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net on behalf of Martin Sukey Sent: Tue 03/10/2006 9:13 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way I vote with Randall. It sounds like the cam timing is a tooth or so different than what it was before. Marty === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:22:41 2006 From: Adrian Jones To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 20:14:00 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Rear hub leaking differential oil Hi folks, me again, Rear drum brake is leaking oil - smells like diff oil - I'm guessing an oil seal has gone. (Yeah, brake lining covered in oil) Would I be correct in thinking it is best for me to take this in to an LBC shop to get fixed because Haynes says you need a specila hub puller in order to get at the oil seal? Regards, Adrian TS58324 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:27:16 2006 From: Adrian Jones To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 20:21:10 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Fuel spilling out on cornering OK, last message for this evening! Leaving work about a week ago, a buddy following behind noticed fuel coming from the back passenger side as I was cornering. I checked out the fuel tank and overflow - everything seemed in order and I don't fill the fuel tank to the top. I just stick the nozzle all the way in and stop pumping when it cuts off. Also I must have burnt at least a gallon before this incident. Any thoughts? Its a new tank (well, 3 year old tank I got from Moss Motors when the old one started leaking) Regards, Adrian TS58324 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:29:31 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'TR List'" Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:28:28 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder > Moss offers a 'cup holder' that sits on the floor and is > secured by the > floor mat! I haven't tried it or seen it, but I did see it in > their new catalog. I don't know if it was from Moss or not, but I know I've seen a cupholder designed to go on a carpeted transmission tunnel. It had flexible "ears" with Velcro strips to conform to the hump and anchor to the carpet. Still, I have to admit the idea of carrying open hot coffee in a TR3A makes me nervous. They aren't exactly the smoothest riding of cars, and SoCA is famous for it's bad roads ... no matter how good the holder, seems to me that a bump at just the wrong time could net you an eyeful of hot coffee. The "travel" mugs I've seen will squirt a jet of liquid if they are about 1/2 full, and you jerk them up and down hard enough (like hitting a pothole). Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:31:39 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Adrian Jones'" , Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:30:41 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Timing cover oil seal - which way round? > If I had to guess I suppose the "open" side would be pushed > in first - that way the seal would end up being totally > enclosed. (The "open" side would be in contact with the > metal of the recess - if that makes sense.) Nope, goes the other way. "Open" side towards the inside of the engine. > At the good advice of a list member, I ordered a 1/2 ton > press from Horrible Fright ($30 + $8 shipping) but now I'm > anxious to get started. What do you think my chances are of > successfully "tapping" the new one place (using the old one > as a drift). Should be no problem, I used a block of wood on mine. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:40:18 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Adrian Jones'" , Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:38:24 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Fuel spilling out on cornering > I checked out the fuel tank and overflow - everything seemed > in order and I don't fill the fuel tank to the top. I just > stick the nozzle all the way in and stop pumping when it cuts > off. Also I must have burnt at least a gallon before this incident. > > Any thoughts? Its a new tank (well, 3 year old tank I got > from Moss Motors when the old one started leaking) IMO the problem is intrinsic to the design. There are no baffles in the tank, and the vent is located at the RH edge. It doesn't take much of a corner at all to force fuel out the vent. Worse yet, there doesn't seem to be any need for the vent. Every TR2-3B filler I've checked has had a vent hole built into the cap. If not, it would be easy to add, just drill a small hole through the inner cap (not through the chrome outer piece). So, I addressed the problem by sealing off the tank vent a long time ago. I've never noticed any problems since then. To give some idea of how long ago that was, I first realized there was a serious problem when an overzealous gas station attendant tried to fill the tank level full. He didn't realize he was standing in a spreading pool of gasoline until I yelled at him ! Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 17:46:30 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Adrian Jones'" , Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 17:45:04 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Rear hub leaking differential oil > Would I be correct in thinking it is best for me to take this > in to an LBC shop to get fixed because Haynes says you need a > specila hub puller in order to get at the oil seal? Yes. Without the special puller, there's a good chance of ruining the hub. Be sure to ask them if they have the special puller, as trying to do the job with a hydraulic press is also apt to ruin the hub. If they say "Oh, we do them all that way", have them sign a guarantee that when they do ruin the hub, they will replace it ! However, the good news is that if you want to, you can remove the halfshaft assembly (hub still attached) and take just it in to have the seal & bearing replaced. If your local LBC shop lacks the special tool, you can ship the shaft to someone who has it. (I know Herman van den Akker has the tool, but don't know if he's available now to do this work ... ask him.) Don't forget the seal inside the axle, too. It should actually keep the diff oil away from the wheel bearing, so it's bad as well as the outer seal. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 18:28:07 2006 From: "Lou Metelko" To: "List" Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 21:26:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] collecting Listers; You may remember my writing to tell of the excellence of the articles in Keith Martin's monthly magazine titled "Sports Car Market". Keith and his able writers are very good at tracking the values of sport cars irregardless of the country of origin or age. Over the last half dozen or so years Keith has written books titled " Keith Martin on Collecting Ferrari" or Jaguar or Mercedes Benz or Porsche. Now it is finally our turn because his company is now taking orders for his latest work. The title is "Keith Martin on Collecting Austin Healey, MG and Triumph". I ordered mine this afternoon by calling 800-289-2819. Cost is just $19.95 plus $5 shipping. I usually shy away from cheap books with the thinking that for just $20, it can't have much substance but I made an exception here. In the dozen or so years since starting his magazine Keith has become "the" authority on the values of collector cars so I wish there was a financial interest but there isn't. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 18:55:08 2006 From: "Mark Hooper" To: "Martin Sukey" , Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 21:51:55 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general You know Marty, you're a real bundle of joy. I'll bet in the old days you were the guy who walked about with a bell calling "Bring out your dead!".... Just joking. :^) Seriously, I do have a slightly modified cam on the engine. I'm damned if I remember the grind though. I had it done back in 1991 by a now defunct rebuilder. Then the engine sat for years awaiting the rest of the frame-off. Notes from that time are scarce. It's beginning to look like I too should check out Horrible Fright and buy a half-decent dial guage kit and start testing things. Are there any recommendations from the list of versatile, but not too expensive dial guage kits? Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net on behalf of Martin Sukey Sent: Wed 04/10/2006 8:19 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way Mark, a couple more thoughts. Is this a stock cam or an upgraded cam? If upgraded, did the shop have the specs to degree it in too? If not he would have probably used the factory timing marks and the settings might not be the same as the replacement cam. Another thought is your camshaft is shot, as a couple of the cam lobes are worn down. This would have nothing to do with the repair but would have been gradual. Marty -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 11:53 PM To: Martin Sukey; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way In the words of Philip Fry, "Oh Crud!" You can imagine I will have to do some testing, but I can only hope that they just slapped on the chain and didn't adjust the timing. That would put things way off without requiring me to tear apart the front end (or face another warranty battle). It could well be you're all right since the low end torque seems to be quite poor off the start whereas before the fix she had a very good pull. Now to hope that it's adjustment, not wrong tooth/chain placement. Mark ________________________________ From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net on behalf of Martin Sukey Sent: Tue 03/10/2006 9:13 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way I vote with Randall. It sounds like the cam timing is a tooth or so different than what it was before. Marty === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 18:58:52 2006 From: pethier@comcast.net To: Barry Schwartz , kinderlehrer@comcast.net Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 01:57:36 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Carter Fuel Pump From: Barry Schwartz > Had a filter in front, large canister type with replaceable 10 micron > filter -pump just failed - on the the other hand I have a Facet pump on my > Spitfire and it's been running for over fifteen years so maybe the newer > ones just aren't as good anymore - > *************************************** > >I think the Facet pumps are very intolerant of any debris. Putting a > filter in front of it may help. > > > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA (San Diego) If a facet fails to work, it is probably schmutz in one of the one-way valves. Disconnect it from the fuel system and blow air though it in the "correct" direction. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 19:49:58 2006 From: "Jeff Fenwick" To: Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 22:48:22 -0400 Subject: Fw: [TR] ball joint removal I've used the screw type separator with success, also. I loosen the ball joint nut enough that the separator presses on it rather than the end of the threads of the stud to avoid deforming them if it's a tight one. Don't be alarmed if it makes a loud "crack" when it does let go. Jeff === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Wed Oct 4 21:31:28 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 21:29:07 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general > Are there any recommendations from the list of versatile, but not too > expensive dial guage kits? Others will disagree, but I refuse to buy any precision instrument from Horrible Freight. Their quality control is just too poor, and the risks of having an inaccurate tool too great. Enco almost always has a cheap 1" travel dial indicator set on sale, with a magnetic base and a set of points, for under $20. It's still not a Starrett or Mitutoyo by any means, but mine has served well for many years, and seems to be accurate at least to the limit of my ability to test it. Currently on sale for $18.95. Go to http://www.use-enco.com and look under "Measuring tools" in the "Hot Deals" section. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 04:28:37 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: mhooper@digiscreen.ca, trmarty@glwb.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 07:26:21 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general I am not sure Harbor Freight has a dial indicator (or any measuring instrument) that you should use on an engine. I have the $13 one but only use it for wheels! ($13?) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 05:40:02 2006 From: "Mark Hooper" To: , Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 08:27:24 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general I take your point. Definitely looking for something a little better. Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: DLylis@aol.com [mailto:DLylis@aol.com] Sent: Thu 05/10/2006 7:26 AM To: Mark Hooper; trmarty@glwb.net; triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust back-pressure - getting detailed in a general sort of way I am not sure Harbor Freight has a dial indicator (or any measuring instrument) that you should use on an engine. I have the $13 one but only use it for wheels! ($13?) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 07:37:26 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 10:32:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] basic fan shroud design? I think Ive been operating under the mistaken assumption that the engine fan blew air across through the radiator. I even installed a shroud (converted from a plastic tub used by restaurants for busing tables), but when I felt that it wasnt blowing out air through the cracks, I took it off. I now want to reinstall a fan shroud and this time, I hope I can feel it sucking air across the cracks. I am looking for design guidelines and tips since Ive never seen the cardboard version. What I am thinking of is simply an inverted U shape made out of 1x4s pieces of thin plank, 3 boards are all thats needed. The top 13 board is horizontal and just under the radiator hose to the thermostat. The two sideboards just run straight down to the ground and are about 2 long; they are attached to the top board at a 90 degree angle. All boards have aluminum sheeting wrapped around them and tacked to the boards. This inverted U would sit close to the radiator almost touching the engine. What thinkest the list of such a basic design? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/462 - Release Date: 10/3/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 07:48:47 2006 From: MMoore8425@aol.com To: dorpaul@negia.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 10:38:47 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? The cardboard sure sounds good to me! I had a TR with a claptrap sheet metal riveted shropud andit was pretty bad. Rattled, didn't fit well etc. etc. Cardboard properly coated abnd painted worked very well. Mike Moore === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 08:17:42 2006 From: kinderlehrer@comcast.net To: "Paul Dorsey" , Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 15:13:08 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? Paul, Am I understanding you to say you are putting the shroud between the radiator and the engine? I thought they went between they went between the grill and the radiator to funnel road air through the radiator. Moss and/or TRF sell a cardboard/fiberboard shroud that once painted and installed seems to work fine in front of the radiator. Bob -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Paul Dorsey" > I think Ive been operating under the mistaken assumption that the engine > fan blew air across through the radiator. I even installed a shroud > (converted from a plastic tub used by restaurants for busing tables), but > when I felt that it wasnt blowing out air through the cracks, I took it > off. > > I now want to reinstall a fan shroud and this time, I hope I can > feel it sucking air across the cracks. I am looking for design guidelines > and tips since Ive never seen the cardboard version. What I am thinking of > is simply an inverted U shape made out of 1x4s pieces of thin plank, 3 > boards are all thats needed. The top 13 board is horizontal and just > under the radiator hose to the thermostat. The two sideboards just run > straight down to the ground and are about 2 long; they are attached to the > top board at a 90 degree angle. All boards have aluminum sheeting wrapped > around them and tacked to the boards. This inverted U would sit close to > the radiator almost touching the engine. > > > > What thinkest the list of such a basic design? > > > > Thanks, > > Paul Dorsey > > 60 TR3 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 10:04:49 2006 From: "Randy Homanchuk" To: "list" Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 12:58:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] machining tr3 rotors and drums Hello list: Is there any maximum dia. that Tr3 a rear brake drums can be safely turned out to ? also is there a mininum thickness for front brake rotors. My drums & rotors need rust removed to regain smooth finish, TIA Randy === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 10:06:27 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 09:58:06 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? kinderlehrer@comcast.net wrote: >Paul, Am I understanding you to say you are putting the shroud between the radiator and the engine? I thought they went between they went between the grill and the radiator to funnel road air through the radiator. Moss and/or TRF sell a cardboard/fiberboard shroud that once painted and installed seems to work fine in front of the radiator. > What he said... plus: I think any shroud behind the radiator would be a bad idea. At that point the air flow has mostly done it's work and you want it out of the way. You also want some aire flowing past the internals (dynamo, carbs, etc) anyway. The 'cardboard' shroud isn't as cheesy as it sounds -- 'fibreboard' sounds better. Anyway the one supplied by Moss, et al fits perfectly, is reasonably prices and probably hard to improve on (IMO). I think originals were usually painted body color. Geo -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.13/463 - Release Date: 10/4/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 10:32:11 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 10:28:27 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] machining tr3 rotors and drums I asked this (about drums) on the list a couple of months ago because the shop I was using needed to knowif mine would be within the legal limit. I was unable to find a TR answer, but found some state & federal Highway Safety sites that have a standard for drums where the max is not stamped on the drum and the manufacture's spec is unavailable. For 10 inch drums my recollection was a max of 10.090. Note -- this was for truck & bus inspection, but it was the only thing close I could find. The info was good enough for the shop who just wanted to cover themselves. I didn't have to go nearly that large but it gave me a number I could quote. Wonder how this compares to the spec on modern drums? As for discs -- thought this was in the manual though I don't have one handy. Geo H Randy Homanchuk wrote: >Hello list: Is there any maximum dia. that Tr3 a rear brake drums can be >safely turned out to ? also is there a mininum thickness for front brake >rotors. My drums & rotors need rust removed to regain smooth finish, TIA >Randy > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.13/463 - Release Date: 10/4/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 10:37:53 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 10:34:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Dear Abby Kevin Thompson wrote: > Dear Abby, > > I've never written to you before, but I really need your advice... Don't worry, they all do that eventually. I once had an employee who said her husband was out playing 'indoor soccer' until midnight several nights a week... should she be suspicous? I asked if there was anything to back up his story. "Well (she said) he does come home all hot and sweaty". Geo -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.13/463 - Release Date: 10/4/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 10:57:06 2006 From: Mike Kitchener To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 19:45:06 +0200 Subject: Re: [TR] machining tr3 rotors and drums Randy Try here for the rotors. ftp://ftp.thelittlemacshop.com/1958bul.pdf Mike http://mikek.9online.fr/index.htm > Hello list: Is there any maximum dia. that Tr3 a rear brake drums can > be safely turned out to ? also is there a mininum thickness for front > brake rotors. My drums & rotors need rust removed to regain smooth > finish, TIA Randy === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 12:25:38 2006 From: "Philip E. Barnes" To: Kevin Thompson , Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 15:17:10 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Dear Abby At 12:59 PM -0400 10/5/06, Kevin Thompson wrote: >Dear Abby, > >I've never written to you before, but I really need your advice on >what could be a crucial decision..... Is this something I can fix >myself or should I take it back to the repair shop? > >Thanks, >Kevin Kevin, You're right to be suspicious. It's time you took matters into your own hands and nip things in the bud before it's too late. When your wife is away and you can concentrate on the task at hand, have a close look at all the possible sources of the leak. That's the only way of knowing whether you can deal with things on your own or seek professional help. Good luck, Abby === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 12:48:43 2006 From: "Robert M. Lang" To: "R. Ashford Little II" <70TR6@mindspring.com> Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 15:44:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Re: Engine issues Hi, Do a leakdown test. It'll tell you if the ring is bad on #2. The values for cyls 3, 4 and 5 look iffy to me. A leakdown test will prove if the valves are sealing and/or the head gasket is bad. Back to #2 - make sure the wire is okay and that the plug isn't messed up, e.g. move the plug to another hole to see if the fouling follows the plug. An intermittant hi-tension problem can lead to fouling just as easily as too much oil in the combustion chamber (from valve guides or rings). Check the simple stuff first. rml ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 13:19:48 2006 From: Michael Hargreave Mawson To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 21:12:51 +0100 Subject: Re: [TR] Dear Abby On Thu, 5 Oct 2006, at around 12:59:19 local time, Kevin Thompson wrote: >Dear Abby, > >I've never written to you before, but I really need your advice on what >could be a crucial decision. Dear Kevin, I think you are being very unfair. This sort of behaviour is perfectly normal, and should not cause you any concern. Your lack of trust could permanently damage your relationship. On the other hand, if you feel sure that the problem is excessive, you may wish to crawl underneath and take a good close look at her underside. Check for obvious problems like loose drain plugs or oil filters. If the leak appears to be coming from the sump joint, or she starts calling out "Dave" in her sleep, you may wish to seek professional advice. Yours, -- Abby === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 13:37:14 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 13:34:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] NAPA Gold #1516 Spin-on Oil Filters Hi List! I went to my local NAPA auto store to purchase 4 NAPA Gold #1516 Oil Filters for my TRIUMPH, because I was told from AAA that they were having a rebate of up to 4/house hold. When I akesd for the rebate coupons, the checked & stated that there isn't an offer going on this month. BUMMER! :>( BUT! Being that they were normially selling for about $6 each. He said that if I was willing to purchase 12 of them at a time, then he could sell them for $3 each. That's cheaper than if I went for the rebate offer. So I jumped on it. I just thought that I would spread the news so theos needing Spin-on Oil filters could benifit. According to NAPA, these oil filters are made for them by Wix. Which is considered, by some people, as a Very Good Filter (for the money). Espically at $3 each! -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 13:49:35 2006 From: "Jim Wallace" To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 16:48:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3a clutch slave spec Haynes tells me that on installing the pushrod from the clutch slave, to leave 0.079" play before the pushrod is tight. It's just such a weird number - and it is in Haynes - that I am compelled to ask you folks for more input. -Is Haynes out of whack? It does specify 0.010" for a TR4a after all. -If it's right, does 50 years of hindsight yield a different spec. anyway? TIA, Jim Wallace TR3a 2TS81417L + O === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 14:48:21 2006 From: "Arakelian, Peter" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 14:46:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder > Moss offers a 'cup holder' that sits on the floor and is secured by > the floor mat! I haven't tried it or seen it, but I did see it in > their new catalog. >Idon't know if it was from Moss or not, but I know I've seen a cupholder designed to go on a carpeted transmission tunnel. It had >flexible "ears" >with Velcro strips to conform to the hump and anchor to the carpet. You asked.... The Moss one, 100-785, is designed with a solid flap that slides under the lip of the carpet. Works real well, have one in my car. Peter === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 15:41:50 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Jim Wallace'" , Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 15:39:30 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] tr3a clutch slave spec > Haynes tells me that on installing the pushrod from the > clutch slave, to > leave 0.079" play before the pushrod is tight. > It's just such a weird number Try converting it to millimeters. > -Is Haynes out of whack? It does specify 0.010" for a TR4a after all. > -If it's right, does 50 years of hindsight yield a different > spec. anyway? The actual number is not at all critical, basically it just becomes a component of the free play at the pedal. The only important thing is that there always be _some_ freeplay at the slave. Personally, that's all I check for, that I can wiggle the pushrod a bit if I extend the return spring with my other hand. Running it as loose as the .079" in the Haynes (or the .075"/1.9mm in the Bentley) just gives you a bit more room for wear before it needs to be adjusted again. The penalty is a lower clutch pedal. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 16:11:47 2006 From: "Terry Smith" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 19:10:59 -0400 Subject: Fw: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder Thanks, John. I did see that in the Moss catalog. I'm sure they have a quality product. For me, though, I don't want to have to reach between my legs to the floor, then navigate the cup between the seat cushion and the steering wheel while I drive. Maybe I'm missing the way the holder works, though. I'll be using a quality travel mug with "squirt-prevention" (some kind of tab I can fasten down when not actually sipping. ...so, I'm really just looking for something to hold the cup securely in a convenient place. Randall, thanks for the thought, but I don't have to worry about spills staining my trousers or shirt. I've found that if you drive fast enough, spills hit the grill of the car following you. :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire > > > > >> Moss sells one that sits on the floor hooked under the floor mat. >> Expensive but it works well #100-785 John Mitchell 76 TR6 >> >> Terry Smith wrote: >> >>>I do love coffee, but confess to having an aversion to carrying a burning >>>hot >>>cup between my legs while I try to maneuver TR3A original worm steering. >>> >>>The usual suspects of VIP, Walmart, Autozone, don't seem to have a coffee >>>cup >>>holder that are snug for the console behind the shifter. >>> >>>Anybody solved this one? >>> >>>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 >>>New Hampshire === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 16:43:56 2006 From: Doug Mathews To: "Lou Metelko" Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 19:41:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] collecting Lou, Thanks for the info. Being the cheapskate that I am, I check B&n and they have it a few $$'s cheaper, although I did not include tax/shipping. See it at http://tinyurl.com/n5ak5 Amazon has it for ~$13.60 See it at http://tinyurl.com/p7nbt Thanks again Doug At 10:26 PM 10/4/2006, you wrote: >Listers; > >You may remember my writing to tell of the excellence of the articles in Keith >Martin's monthly magazine titled "Sports Car Market". Keith and his able >writers are very good at tracking the values of sport cars irregardless of the >country of origin or age. Over the last half dozen or so years Keith has >written books titled " Keith Martin on Collecting Ferrari" or Jaguar or >Mercedes Benz or Porsche. > >Now it is finally our turn because his company is now taking orders for his >latest work. The title is "Keith Martin on Collecting Austin Healey, MG and >Triumph". I ordered mine this afternoon by calling 800-289-2819. Cost is >just $19.95 plus $5 shipping. > >I usually shy away from cheap books with the thinking that for just $20, it >can't have much substance but I made an exception here. > >In the dozen or so years since starting his magazine Keith has become "the" >authority on the values of collector cars so I wish there was a financial >interest but there isn't. > >Lou Metelko >Auburn, Indiana === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 16:56:01 2006 From: "Jim Muller" To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 19:54:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re: To Everything There is a Season On 5 Oct 2006 at 19:33, TR250Driver@aol.com wrote: > As I have said before this may be the advantage us Northern Type guys > have over all you fair weather folks. We have several months over the > winter to work on our cars and make them the best that they can be. Hmmm, when the high temp inches it way up to 10degF in my "northern" garage, which is actually eastern Massachusetts, I tend to stay in the house and gaze longingly at the door to the garage, behind which sleeps the GT6. It, dormant, and I both dream. -- Jim Muller jimmuller@rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:23:32 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 17:21:06 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] To Everything There is a Season > I have one more opportunity to drive on the upcoming British > Car Reliability > Run next weekend thru OHIO and WVA. Looking forward to that, > how many of you are going? Not me, I'm doing my own reliability run. Appx 1500 miles in a Stag I've never seen before, and with no entourage. You guys is pikers ! Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:33:27 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: ahwahnee@cybertrails.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:32:34 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Dear Abby In a message dated 10/5/2006 1:36:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ahwahnee@cybertrails.com writes: Don't worry, they all do that eventually. I assume you mean wives AND TR6s? === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:35:17 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: ahwahnee@cybertrails.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:29:01 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? Fiberboard by any other name, is still cheesy. I wanted a nice new looking one for my car so I bought it from Moss. One rainstorm, it looked just like the old one. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:43:15 2006 From: MMoore8425@aol.com To: DLylis@aol.com, ahwahnee@cybertrails.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:40:11 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? In a message dated 10/5/2006 5:30:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, DLylis@aol.com writes: Fiberboard by any other name, is still cheesy. I wanted a nice new looking one for my car so I bought it from Moss. One rainstorm, it looked just like the old one. Yeah, my experience also and then I bought a second one and I put several coats of marine varnish on it. followed by primer and several coats of red paint to match my car. I made all the folds first. It works just fine! Best, Mike Moore === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:44:03 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: 70TR6@mindspring.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net, Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:40:24 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Engine issues I'll bet you have not yet checked the ruminator. It is likely that is where the problem is. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:45:12 2006 From: "R. Ashford Little II" <70TR6@mindspring.com> To: "'Mike Pisani'" Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:44:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] RE: Engine issues Jeez Mike!!! How could I be so stupid as to overlook the alignment of the flux capacitor? That's got to be it. R. Ashford Little II '70 TR6, 73.5 911 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 17:55:42 2006 From: "Jim Muller" To: Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 20:54:19 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] To Everything There is a Season On 5 Oct 2006 at 17:21, Randall wrote: > I'm doing my own reliability run. Appx 1500 miles in a Stag I've > never seen before, and with no entourage. > > You guys is pikers ! One of my band members, up here in the New England for a gig, picked up a Volvo in Hartford, Connecticut that he'd won on eBay and drove it home to South Carolina. But that's still not quite up to the level of 1500 miles in an unseen Stag. May you wish a smooth road, sunny skies, and cheap gas. Inotherwords, good luck on that trip! -- Jim Muller jimmuller@rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 18:02:00 2006 From: ScharfR@aol.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 21:01:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Buy TR7 book now, or it's free* Listers: In a shameless act of self-promotion (and possible self-sacrifice) I'd like to point out that I have a Haynes TR7 Repair Manual on eBay -- item 230034815479. It is attracting nearly no interest. If that continues, I'd be willing to give it to the first lister who requests it (*for the price of postage and a padded envelope). So I'm encouraging all you TR7 fans to _not_ bid. Tell all your friends not to bid on your behalf. Thanks for your cooperation. I hope this doesn't offend anyone's sensibilities and I apologize if it goes against the policies of the list. Bob Sharp MI 64-ish TR4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 20:31:08 2006 From: ZoboHerald@aol.com To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 23:26:53 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] To Everything There is a Season On 5 Oct 2006 at 17:21, Randall wrote: > I'm doing my own reliability run. Appx 1500 miles in a Stag I've > never seen before, and with no entourage. > > You guys is pikers ! Jim replied: One of my band members, up here in the New England for a gig, picked up a Volvo in Hartford, Connecticut that he'd won on eBay and drove it home to South Carolina. But that's still not quite up to the level of 1500 miles in an unseen Stag. May you wish a smooth road, sunny skies, and cheap gas. Inotherwords, good luck on that trip! ==AM== OK, guess it's time to mention again the 2550-mile round trip (NY-MN-NY) I took four years ago to the VTR Convention, barely two weeks after buying my '62 Herald and having done nothing to it other than changing the oil and putting a few around-town miles on it. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 20:38:06 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 20:37:15 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] basic fan shroud design? > Yeah, my experience also and then I bought a second one and I put several > coats of marine varnish on it. followed by primer and several coats > of red paint > to match my car. I made all the folds first. It works just fine! They are supposed to be painted body color ... Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 21:58:40 2006 From: Tom Note To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 23:57:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Starting problem Hi folks: A few days ago I drove out in the TR6 with my daughter for a picnic. A couple of hours later, turned the key to start it, and got nothing. No groan, hum or click. Checked the wires at the solenoid & battery,but didn't see anything obvious. Horn and lights were strong. Tried again a few minutes later and it cranked fast, as usual, and fired right up. Does that sound like a problem with the solenoid, or perhaps the ignition switch, or ? I couldn't hear the solenoid pull in. It's started fine since. TIA, Tom Note '76 TR6 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 22:12:06 2006 From: "jim hearn" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 22:11:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Luggage rack mounting without holes in the trunk question At a recent car show, I noticed Austin Healys and a TR3 that had the luggage rack attached so that no holes were drilled in the trunk lid. I have a 1974 TR6 and cannot imagine a way to mount a luggage rack and not drill holes but thought I would ask just in case someone had come up with some ingenious way of doing it. Thanks, Jim === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 22:30:06 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2006 22:29:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Starting problem Tom Note wrote: >...turned the key to start it, and got nothing. No groan, hum or click... >Does that sound like a problem with the solenoid, or perhaps the ignition switch, or ? > I would first suspect a faulty connection, else perhaps the ignition switch. The dubious connection may have been at the switch or at the solenoid (small wire, possibly White/Red). If it recurs and refuses to work you can hot-wire that white/red connection on the solenoid to get it to crank. Disclaimer -- comments are based on 4-cyl TR experience though I think these bits work pretty much the same on a 6 Geo H -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.13/463 - Release Date: 10/4/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Oct 5 23:44:59 2006 From: "Mark" To: Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 23:43:35 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder > -----Original Message----- > From: Terry Smith > Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 4:59 PM > To: triumphs@autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3A Coffee Holder > > > I do love coffee, but confess to having an aversion to carrying a burning hot > cup between my legs while I try to maneuver TR3A original worm steering. > > The usual suspects of VIP, Walmart, Autozone, don't seem to have a coffee cup > holder that are snug for the console behind the shifter. > > Anybody solved this one? If you removed the rubber plug in the tranny tunnel just aft of the gearshift, perhaps your coffee cup would fit there? :-) === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 04:27:35 2006 From: MMoore8425@aol.com To: tr3driver@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 07:24:12 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? In a message dated 10/5/2006 8:38:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, tr3driver@comcast.net writes: They are supposed to be painted body color ... Randall My body was red. (Aren't ALL TR3s?) Mike Moore === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 04:33:03 2006 From: Adrian Jones To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 07:25:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] BMW Triumph Hi Folks, A buddy at work has a new BMW Mini. He tells me the oil pressure gauge has only 2 positions for the needle - zero and some fake oil pressure. The gauge therefore only functions as a light switch - on or off. Presumably, this is to prevent owners fretting about variations in oil pressure. Pretty pathetic, if you ask me. Like the old fellow says, why pay top dollar for the retro look why you can have the real thing? Regards, Adrian TS 58324 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 04:39:14 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 04:34:20 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] basic fan shroud design? > tr3driver@comcast.net writes: > > They are supposed to be painted body color ... > > Randall > Mike Moore replied : > My body was red. (Aren't ALL TR3s?) My apologies, Mike, I was unclear ... meant to say you did the "correct" thing as well as the right thing. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 05:15:09 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: Geo & Kathleen Hahn , Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 12:13:49 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] Starting problem -------------- Original message -------------- From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn > I would first suspect a faulty connection, else perhaps the ignition > switch. The dubious connection may have been at the switch or at the > solenoid (small wire, possibly White/Red). If it recurs and refuses to > work you can hot-wire that white/red connection on the solenoid to get > it to crank. > Disclaimer -- comments are based on 4-cyl TR experience though I think these bits work pretty much the same on a 6 Pretty much, except that 74-76 TR6's have a starter relay in the circuit. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 05:18:44 2006 From: emanteno@comcast.net To: ZoboHerald@aol.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 12:16:13 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] To Everything There is a Season -------------- Original message -------------- From: ZoboHerald@aol.com > ==AM== > OK, guess it's time to mention again the 2550-mile round trip (NY-MN-NY) I took four years ago to the VTR Convention, barely two weeks after buying my '62 Herald and having done nothing to it other than changing the oil and putting a few around-town miles on it. ;-) Yeah, but knowing you Andy, it has probably been sitting in the barn since you got it home from that trip. ;-) Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 05:25:56 2006 From: "Randall" To: "TR" Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 05:23:12 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Starting problem > Pretty much, except that 74-76 TR6's have a starter relay in the circuit. According to Dan's schematics, only 74-75 TR6 have the starter relay. In 76 it's function changed to "bulb test" and the ignition switch went back to operating the starter solenoid directly. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 06:10:12 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: tom628@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 09:04:24 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Starting problem It's a mind game. The car is just reminding you who is in control. When and if it happens again I would put some juice right to the solenoid to bypass the ignition switch and exclude or include it as a possibility. Make sure the car is in neutral and think about whose toes are under the tires. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 06:28:13 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: jimhearn1@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 09:21:44 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage rack mounting without holes in the trunk I have given this some thought for my TR6 as I would like the occasional carrying capacity but not the permanent look. If you study the way the rack is mounted you will see that it is drilled straight down into the top of the lid. It would seem to me to fashion a two straps that hook over the top edge of the lid (cushioned of course) and then hook over the trailing edge of the lid (again, cushioned) but is raised up off the balance of the lid. This 'strap' would be in two pieces with a threaded device (bolt, threaded rod) in the middle. You would hook the strap to the top of the lid, hook it on to the trailing edge of the lid and tighten the threaded device so it is tight. To that you would mount the rack. Actually you would mount the rack before the whole device goes on so the rack and the straps would be stored as one unit when not on the car. This is the same principle as the old fashioned roof racks that clamped to the rain gutters (when cars had rain gutters) only much more discreet. There is a caveat here. The slight movement and vibration is likely to scuff the paint a little where it rests so proper cushioning is necessary. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 06:49:16 2006 From: zoboherald@aol.com To: emanteno@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 09:33:42 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] To Everything There is a Season -----Original Message----- From: emanteno@comcast.net > ==AM== > OK, guess it's time to mention again the 2550-mile round trip (NY-MN-NY) I took four years ago to the VTR Convention, barely two weeks after buying my '62 Herald and having done nothing to it other than changing the oil and putting a few around-town miles on it. ;-) Yeah, but knowing you Andy, it has probably been sitting in the barn since you got it home from that trip. ==AM== Shocking as it might seem to some of you who know me, this car has been the rare exception to that rule amongst my fleet! From March-October 2003, it was my ONLY car. period. Since 2004 (yeah, it gets winters off), it has continued to be used regularly. Only this past July, after replacing the clutch, did I finally stoop to collector insurance and plates; that limits use somewhat. Darn. I bought it when it was 40 years old with approximately 50000 miles on it (original, AFAIK). The previous owner had put 700 miles on it in 13 years. As per my original message, I more than tripled that mileage within a month! It currently has 75000+ on the odo. Way more fun than the beater Civic! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 06:53:56 2006 From: John Gillis To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 14:51:46 +0100 Subject: [TR] Oil gauge Q II am picking up slightly confusing info on the feed to the oil gauge, is the pipe out of the back of the gauge a rigid (steel) or a flexible hose type connecting to a rigid one?, seen one on youknowwho-Bay as an original gauge feed and it is flexible. Thanks John -- John Gillis Senior Conservator Trinity College Library Dublin IRELAND === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 06:54:58 2006 From: John Gillis To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 14:54:38 +0100 Subject: [TR] Oil gauge Q II am picking up slightly confusing info on the feed to the oil gauge, is the pipe out of the back of the gauge a rigid (steel) or a flexible hose type connecting to a rigid one?, seen one on youknowwho-Bay as an original gauge feed and it is flexible. Thanks John -- John Gillis 1954 Triumph TR2 1991 Kawasaki W650 Dublin IRELAND === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 07:06:05 2006 From: "T. S. White" To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 07:03:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Abbey responds. Dear Kevin, Those are serious signs. When she displays signs of being wet in the driveway you may have a serious problem. I would suggest you take her to a professional for mediation of the problem. A good professional will be able to resolve the problem successfully. Once you have the oil leak stopped ditch the wife. -- Best regards, Tom === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 07:40:01 2006 From: To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 10:35:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [TR] To Everything There is a Season Andy Mace wrote: > I bought it when it was 40 years old with approximately > 50000 miles on it (original, AFAIK). I would strongly urge anyone to use only orignal miles. I've had very bad experiences from trying to save pennies by running used miles, and quality control is very bad on most aftermarket miles. NOS miles are the best, but they're getting hard to find. -- Jim Muller '70 GT6+ getting original miles almost every day '80 Spitfire getting close to getting more original miles soon === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 07:48:34 2006 From: TR6UO@aol.com To: DLylis@aol.com, jimhearn1@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 10:46:57 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage rack mounting without holes in the trunk In a message dated 10/6/2006 6:26:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, DLylis@aol.com writes: There is a caveat here. The slight movement and vibration is likely to scuff the paint a little where it rests so proper cushioning is necessary. I occassionally use the gutter mounts on my truck and find that a piece of duct tape placed under the mount will preserve and protect the paint. This should work very well for your application. Steve '72 TR6 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 08:05:20 2006 From: To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 11:00:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage rack mounting without holes in the trunk DLylis wrote: > I have given this some thought for my TR6 as I would like > the occasional carrying capacity... > It would seem to me to fashion a two straps that hook over > the top edge of the lid... I made a luggage carrier for my Spitfire in preparation for a week's camping out of it. The frame was a simple rectangle of wood and aluminum bars. It was held off the boot lid by four rubber cups attached to the screws that held the frame together. The aluminum bars and cups came off of another, very much larger top carrier. I first tried attaching it to the leading edge boot lid with straps running to two rubber-coated hooks, but there was too little clearance between the body panel and the boot lid. So instead, I ran straps diagonally over the forward corners of the boot lid, under each corner and back out. When the boot was closed the straps compressed the boot seal without any damage and the extra bit of friction helped keep them from slipping. The trailing edge of the frame was held by straps running straight back to hooks that went over the trailing lip of the boot lid. Friction buckles on those straps let me cinch everything down tight. A towel under the rub! be! r cups and cloth scraps under the hooks at the back protected the paint. Putting it on the car with the protecting cloth in place was inconvenient but once attached it was solid, and it still allowed the boot to be opened. Also it could be removed quickly and restored without tools. We used it only that one time but it worked great (the following year we took the GT6) and I'll use it again when appropriate. Mind you, I wouldn't do this with on a 98pt concourse car, but my cars are driver. -- Jim Muller '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+, the ultimate camping vehicles === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 09:16:18 2006 From: zoboherald@aol.com To: jmerone@rocketmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net, Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 12:13:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] What's with Pennsylvania? -----Original Message----- From: jmerone@rocketmail.com But in the immortal words of Cubs fans everywhere I've now heard "just wait until next year!" Wowzee. 2007 VTR - Valley Forge, PA (July) British Marque - Pocono Manor, PA (August) 6-Pack - Hershey, PA (?) But what's with Pennsylvania? Did their Chamber of Commerce lobby the British car market that hard? ==AM== Could be. I just hope PA will have changed its slogan (Welcome to Pennsylvania...Still Under Construction) and state emblem (orange traffic cone) by next spring. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 10:01:14 2006 From: "Nolan" To: , <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 12:58:35 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] What's with Pennsylvania? > I just hope PA will have changed its slogan (Welcome to > Pennsylvania...Still Under Construction) and state emblem (orange > traffic cone) by next spring. ;-) ROTF!!!! === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 10:32:22 2006 From: "Mark Hooper" To: "Adrian Jones" , Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 13:23:21 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] BMW Triumph Didn't Jaguar do that years ago? If the oil pressure was too low the guage would go to mid-range just to calm the driver. Mark -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: October 6, 2006 7:25 AM To: triumphs@autox.team.net Subject: [TR] BMW Triumph Hi Folks, A buddy at work has a new BMW Mini. He tells me the oil pressure gauge has only 2 positions for the needle - zero and some fake oil pressure. The gauge therefore only functions as a light switch - on or off. Presumably, this is to prevent owners fretting about variations in oil pressure. Pretty pathetic, if you ask me. Like the old fellow says, why pay top dollar for the retro look why you can have the real thing? Regards, Adrian TS 58324 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 10:53:52 2006 From: pethier@comcast.net To: Adrian Jones , Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 17:49:42 +0000 Subject: Re: [TR] BMW Triumph From: Adrian Jones > Hi Folks, > > A buddy at work has a new BMW Mini. He tells me the oil pressure gauge has only > 2 positions for the needle - zero and some fake oil pressure. The gauge > therefore only functions as a light switch - on or off. > Presumably, this is to prevent owners fretting about variations in oil pressure. > Pretty pathetic, if you ask me. Mazda started putting these rinky-dink gauges in Miatas. Luckily, after they built mine. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 13:53:14 2006 From: McGaheyRx@aol.com To: ZoboHerald@aol.com, jmerone@rocketmail.com, Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 16:50:48 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] What's with Pennsylvania? In a message dated 10/6/2006 11:15:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, zoboherald@aol.com writes: Could be. I just hope PA will have changed its slogan (Welcome to Pennsylvania...Still Under Construction) and state emblem (orange traffic cone) by next spring. ;-) oh...i dunno... properly placed in a large enough, well surfaced area the cones could be okay Jack Mc === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 15:28:40 2006 From: To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 18:25:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RE: [TR] To Everything There is a Season Mark Hoper opined: > They stopped producing miles up here in Canada over 20 > years ago. We have to make do with kilometres... True, but in a pinch you can get parts for 'em in most foreign countries. -- Jim Muller === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 15:52:04 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 18:50:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] final floorpan procedure I am at the point of installing floorpans and sills on my TR3 restoration. I know to do one side of the car at a time. FWIW, the A post and the B post bracing which I installed two years ago has since been removed (for what reason, I cant remember). The engine, transmission and body are installed and are working and sitting properly on the prepared chassis. I have been under the impression that the car ought to be sitting on all four wheels in order to get proper door gaps & body alignment for this near final phase of my work. HOWEVER, someone told me they had done this phase with their car on axle stands and found it much easier. Would the list please inform me if this is possible. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/462 - Release Date: 10/3/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 16:05:18 2006 From: Jim Barbuscia To: TR Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 16:00:56 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Starting problem Actually my '76 has the relay and is using it. I have a build date of May of 1976 I believe, so it is one of the later ones. -jimb '76 TR6 http://home/centurytel.net/~jimbar Randall wrote: >>Pretty much, except that 74-76 TR6's have a starter relay in the circuit. >> >> > >According to Dan's schematics, only 74-75 TR6 have the starter relay. In 76 >it's function changed to "bulb test" and the ignition switch went back to >operating the starter solenoid directly. > >Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 16:41:45 2006 From: "Jim Bauder" To: "TR List" Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 16:41:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] upcoming trip I will be off list and pretty much out of touch for a little over two weeks. If anything is important and you need to reach me, please email me, I will be picking up messages occasionally, or call my cell you probably have the number! I will be at Triumphest and perhaps will see you there!! Unfortunately I won't have the TR250!! Regards, Jim Jim Bauder '68 TR250, CD47L TR web site: http://www.triumphowners.com/647 Scottsdale, AZ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 17:07:25 2006 From: "Terry Smith" To: Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 20:06:04 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] basic fan shroud design? I painted my with a couple coats of rubberized undercoating. I'll be surprised if it disintegrates quickly. So far so good, and have been caught in a couple of rainstorms. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > Fiberboard by any other name, is still cheesy. I wanted a nice new > looking > one for my car so I bought it from Moss. One rainstorm, it looked just > like > the old one. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 17:08:11 2006 From: "R. Ashford Little II" <70TR6@mindspring.com> To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 20:07:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs in unusual places I was uploading some family photos the other day to get printed at a local store, and saw that they also did mouse pads. Hmm, I need a new mouse pad as mine is grungy. Here is the result. Photo courtesy of Marc, not my car, but on the "Ring." http://ralittle2.com/Images/Online Email/TRonthering.jpg Cheers, R. Ashford Little II '70 TR6, 73.5 911 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 18:28:43 2006 From: "Scott Suhring" To: "'Joe Merone'" , Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 21:26:59 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] What's with Pennsylvania? And the 6-Pac Trials will be held in Hershey! Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Merone Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 12:05 PM To: Triumph List; 6 Pack list Subject: [TR] What's with Pennsylvania? I've got to say that for me, a guy who likes to actually drive his car during car events, and not just to them, that this past year was a bit of a disappointment. Some of my favorite shows that are held in different locations were just a little beyond my range. The VTR was in Texas and 6-Pack in Ohio. And one of my favorites in the northeast - The British Marque Triathlon wasn't held in '06. But in the immortal words of Cubs fans everywhere I've now heard "just wait until next year!" Wowzee. 2007 VTR - Valley Forge, PA (July) British Marque - Pocono Manor, PA (August) 6-Pack - Hershey, PA (?) But what's with Pennsylvania? Did their Chamber of Commerce lobby the British car market that hard? Joe Merone CF18928 Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 19:26:03 2006 From: David Brady To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 22:24:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT: need to buy a welder Folks, Sorry to bomb the list with this, but I'm certain that there's a lister out there who can steer me in the right direction. I need a welder to do basic repairs on a car hauler that I recently purchased. Need to weld on fenders. What brand/type would you recommend? TIA, David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 21:14:54 2006 From: Tom Note To: DLylis@aol.com, tom628@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 23:13:36 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Starting problem >From: DLylis@aol.com >Date: 2006/10/06 Fri AM 08:04:24 CDT >To: tom628@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Starting problem >It's a mind game. The car is just reminding you who is in control. When and if it happens again I would put some juice right to the solenoid to bypass the ignition switch and exclude or include it as a possibility. Make sure the car is in neutral and think about whose toes are under the tires. Good advice; esp. about the toes. Couple of years ago I had my foot run over by a trailer with a race car on it. Hurt, but to my surprise nothing broke.Thanks. Tom === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Fri Oct 6 22:16:25 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2006 22:14:56 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Oil gauge Q > II am picking up slightly confusing info on the feed to the oil > gauge, is the pipe out of the back of the gauge a rigid (steel) or a > flexible hose type connecting to a rigid one?, seen one on > youknowwho-Bay as an original gauge feed and it is flexible. Depends on which Triumph you are looking at. AFAIK, all TR2-3B used a solid line, with a short flexible section near the firewall. TR6 used a flexible line, I'm not sure offhand about models in-between. Have you also seen the TR2 disc brake rotors on eBay ? Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 01:34:04 2006 From: "John Macartney" To: "Adrian Jones" , Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 09:27:55 +0100 Subject: Re: [TR] BMW Triumph Adrian Jones wrote: > The gauge therefore only functions as a light switch - on or off. > Presumably, this is to prevent owners fretting about variations in oil > pressure. But the original Mini had a similar engine temp gauge - cold or hot. As for the BMW variant, if the type of bimbo I see driving them in the UK is anything to go by, the majority wouldn't know what oil pressure is, means, does and why. Against that background, the type of instrument in the car is probably in line with their mental capacity. Jonmac === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 08:59:05 2006 From: "Mark J. Bradakis" To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2006 10:00:52 -0600 Subject: Re: [TR] OT: need to buy a welder Welders are a fairly common subject on the shop-talk list. Check out http://demo.fatchancegarage/mharc/archives/html to browse through previous postings. mjb. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 10:40:27 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Triumph List" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 13:52:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Speedo cable Hello all, These questions are directed at those with OD tranny's or who have knowledge on this one. My 3 has been converted to an OD car. And since most of my car came in boxes, I have no source of reference for the following issues. Any help is as usual appreciated. 1. The speedo cable runs across the front of the battery box. Does the cable then run behind the gas pedal rod between the firewall and the rod or in front of the rod. 2. From here I am really guessing. Looks like, feels like it then runs along the frame, up through the opening for the handbrake and into the tranny. 1st question is this correct? 2nd question which side of the handbrake cable does it come up through the floor. TIA, Alex Manzo === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 11:26:28 2006 From: "Randall" To: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." , Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 11:22:13 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Overdrive Speedo cable > 1. The speedo cable runs across the front of the battery box. Does the cable > then run behind the gas pedal rod between the firewall and the rod or in front > of the rod. Not really either one, it's more like over the rod and lever. IOW it stays above the level of the rod until it gets farther to the right of the car than the throttle link to the carbs. It makes a wide curve downwards, through the area where the steering column would be if it was a RHD car and passes fairly close to the inner fender. > 2. From here I am really guessing. Looks like, feels like it then runs along > the frame, Yes, inside the frame rail. There's a clip in that area, ISTR the clip is mounted into the side of the frame rail. > up through the opening for the handbrake My original cable had chafed so far into the steel housing that it broke ... I slit a length of fuel line to add extra protection to the replacement where it goes through the handbrake hole. > and into the tranny. 1st > question is this correct? 2nd question which side of the handbrake cable does > it come up through the floor. The speedo cable goes through the extreme rear of the handbrake lever opening. That's what that funny section on the back of the handbrake lever boot is for ! That puts the speedo cable well above the handbrake cable. Be sure to try to keep all the curves as gentle as possible, for best cable life. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 11:42:42 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Triumph List" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 14:50:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedo cable To: Fred & Randall, Don't know if I should thank both of you. I now have to go back to work. Thanks much to both of you. Alex === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 11:51:33 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Triumph List" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 15:03:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] silent bloc I am back, The silent bloc on the drivers side of my car is sticking up from the drop arm about 1/8-1/4". It appears to have come up when I pulled the steering. It has a nyloc on it but will not pull all the way down. Wrenching both manually and with an air wrench accomplishes nothing. Is this normal. This concerns me only for the reason that with my luck I will be cruising along at 150 mph and it will separate. Needless to say, this could present a problem. Any thoughts? Alex PS For what it is worth, I am working on the punch list items so I can join Terry in saying, "nice to be driving a car that goes further than 100 miles on jack stands and after 2-1/2 years of wrenching" === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 12:08:06 2006 From: "Randall" To: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." , Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 12:06:19 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] silent bloc > The silent bloc on the drivers side of my car is sticking up from the drop arm > about 1/8-1/4". It appears to have come up when I pulled the steering. It has > a nyloc on it but will not pull all the way down. Wrenching both manually and > with an air wrench accomplishes nothing. Is this normal. Check whether the link & rubber will slide up and down on the post. If it slides easily, then the silentbloc is failed and should probably be replaced. The rubber is supposed to be bonded to the post. It's normal for the post to not be pulled down by the nut, instead the end of the post is a taper fit into the drop arm. I got annoyed enough at short-lived silentblocs that I replaced mine with the brass/stainless units from BFE. Took some fettling to make them fit to suit me, but with the grease zerks I added, they should last forever. Probably reduced steering effort slightly too, since they don't have to distort when you turn the wheel like the silentblocs do. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 14:50:08 2006 From: Aldwyn To: Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2006 17:48:53 -0400 Subject: RE: [TR] Buying Long Distance: Tips? It's been awhile since this thread was alive, but I wanted to give it CPR for just a moment! I wanted to thank everyone who took the time to respond to my questions, etc, earlier... Today, I picked up a '76 TR 6 with Overdrive. It was even local, so I didnt have to worry about long distance check out or shipping! Now... to dig in, make changes, fix the little things broken, etc.. :) Thanks again! Aldwyn === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 15:31:20 2006 From: "Graham Stretch" To: "List" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 23:29:20 +0100 Subject: Re: [TR] To Everything There is a Season ----- Original Message ----- From: > Andy Mace wrote: >> I bought it when it was 40 years old with approximately >> 50000 miles on it (original, AFAIK). And Jim replied > I would strongly urge anyone to use only orignal miles. I've had very bad > experiences from trying to save pennies by running used miles, and quality > control is very bad on most aftermarket miles. NOS miles are the best, > but they're getting hard to find. > -- > Jim Muller And now my sides hurt from Laughing So Hard, I always try to find something witty to say about original / genuine miles, but that was just in another league! Brilliant! Graham. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.12/462 - Release Date: 03/10/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 16:34:48 2006 From: "Guy D. Huggins" To: "TR Mailing List" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 18:33:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Disaster Strikes - TR4A Listers, Moments ago disaster struck! While performing the Workshop Manual procedure for checking the end-float on the distributor drive gear I managed to break, yes break, the dizzy pedestal. While tightening it down, one of the flanges broke off the pedestal. I was stunned! I can't believe I broke something made of steel. I need your help in finding a replacement, and learning how not to have this happen again. Some questions that immediately come to mind are: 1. Does any one have a dizzy pedestal for the TR engine that they would part with? (TR2, TR3, TR4 - I assume they will all work) 2. If "packing" is required to set up a proper float, how does one do that? Are there packing pieces? 3. The gasket kit from TRF comes with many gaskets that look like they are for the dizzy pedestal. One is a "rubberized" thick gasket and the others are paper thin. Which one, ones, do I use? Is gasket sealant recommended? 4. Is there some technique that needs to be used to ensure this doesn't happen again? As always, any help is greatly appreciated. Alas, things were going so well... Peace be with you! Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 16:39:56 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: guy@genfiniti.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 19:38:54 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Disaster Strikes - TR4A I wish I could help. When I open the bonnet and things are going well, I have learned that it is only because I have not yet reached the point where I screw up. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 17:28:02 2006 From: Bob Labuz To: "Guy D. Huggins" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 20:23:07 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Disaster Strikes - TR4A On Saturday 07 October 2006 07:33 pm, Guy D. Huggins wrote: > Listers, > > Moments ago disaster struck! > > While performing the Workshop Manual procedure for checking the end-float > on the distributor drive gear I managed to break, yes break, the dizzy > pedestal. > While tightening it down, one of the flanges broke off the pedestal. I was > stunned! I can't believe I broke something made of steel. > > I need your help in finding a replacement, and learning how not to have > this happen again. > > Some questions that immediately come to mind are: > > 1. Does any one have a dizzy pedestal for the TR engine that they would > part with? (TR2, TR3, TR4 - I assume they will all work) > 2. If "packing" is required to set up a proper float, how does one do > that? Are there packing pieces? > 3. The gasket kit from TRF comes with many gaskets that look like they > are for the dizzy pedestal. One is a "rubberized" thick gasket and the > others are paper thin. Which one, ones, do I use? Is gasket sealant > recommended? > 4. Is there some technique that needs to be used to ensure this doesn't > happen again? > > As always, any help is greatly appreciated. > > Alas, things were going so well... > > > Peace be with you! > > Guy D. Huggins > > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/ > Guy, I am guessing you broke it at the engine? not at the distributor? There is a gasket there between the pedestal and the block. But the pedestal should fit flush with the block there. If you broke it at the block, maybe there was something uneven there? If you broke it at the distributer, how tight did you turn the nut? Anyway, I might have a spare.. will have to look tomorrow. I will let you know. I dont think I have ever heard of this problem. Bob === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 17:33:56 2006 From: "Randall" To: "TR Mailing List" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 17:33:18 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Disaster Strikes - TR4A > Some questions that immediately come to mind are: > > 1. Does any one have a dizzy pedestal for the TR engine that they would > part with? (TR2, TR3, TR4 - I assume they will all work) I agree, they're all the same. And I've got lots of them, but you'd probably prefer to find one closer to home. > 2. If "packing" is required to set up a proper float, how does one do > that? Are there packing pieces? I've never seen an engine that needed a packing piece. But all it is, is an extra gasket (or 2 or 3) under the pedestal. By now, I think it's safe to assume that they are all worn enough to not need any extra clearance here. > 3. The gasket kit from TRF comes with many gaskets that look like they > are for the dizzy pedestal. One is a "rubberized" thick gasket and the > others are paper thin. Which one, ones, do I use? That's what this procedure is about. > Is gasket sealant recommended? Probably not necessary, but I'd smear a little Hylomar on there, just to be sure. > 4. Is there some technique that needs to be used to ensure this doesn't > happen again? The pedestal is cast iron rather than steel, and cast iron is kind of brittle. As I recall, the manual procedure is to add a known spacer to the gear, then install the pedestal (which will sit on the gear instead of on the block) and measure how far away from the block it stands. Just put the bolts in finger-tight while you're doing that. If the clearance isn't equal all the way around, loosen the bolt on the narrow side before tightening the bolt on the wide side ... still just finger-tight. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 18:17:57 2006 From: "wmpless" To: "Guy D. Huggins" Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 21:17:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Pedestal Hi Guy, I am sure I have somewhere such a pedestal which also has the rev. counter housing. Not sure from which TR (3 - 4?) engine exactly but if you don't get any other offers I will look for it and send you a picture of the unit when found. Wiard === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sat Oct 7 20:48:03 2006 From: William McLeod To: guy@genfiniti.com Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 20:46:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Pedestal I have a few here in Tucson.... If you want, I'll leave it attached to a nice bare block, and send the whole thing! Collect, of course. Let me know if you need one.... I'll be down at the shop tomorrow and can bring it home to send. Regards, Bill Slightly Classics === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 07:12:34 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 07:11:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Luggage rack mounting without holes in the trunk question Hi List! Being on the TR Digest list I don't know if this has be suggested yet. Also Not owning a TR6 (I think that's the luggage rack that this discussion is about), so this may NOT help. Suggestion: See if you can purchase some Suckion Cups that can be mounted to the bottom of the 4 luggage rack. Reason: It will Increase the 'Holding power'. Also it will give the 'Cushioning effect' for light weight items. -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 07:24:26 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 07:18:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Luggage Rack Hi List, again! Also add on the holing staps as mentioned in the past AND my suggestion of 'Suckion Cups'. I didn't want one to think that my suggestion ment to ONLY use 'Sucksion Cups' -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 08:35:18 2006 From: "Lou Metelko" To: Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 11:35:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] blasphemy I say ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 12:14 AM > Have you also seen the TR2 disc brake rotors on eBay ? > > Randall To consider such a thought is sheer blasphemy! How can there be TR2 rotors when none were ever equipped that way? Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana 54 TR2 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 09:19:53 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 09:12:54 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] blasphemy I say > How can there be TR2 rotors when none were ever equipped that way? Yes, of course Lou. I know that, I'm sure John does too. My point was that eBay sellers frequently; through either ignorance, malice or apathy; list their parts incorrectly. eBay is simply not a credible source as to what was original. In the case of the TR2 rotors, I wrote to the seller asking if he was certain they would fit my TR2. He wrote back that they were exact replacements for the originals. I never heard from him again after I pointed out that TR2s never came with disc brakes, but he also didn't update the auction. Caveat Emptor Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 10:21:52 2006 From: TR6UO@aol.com To: tr4a2712@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 13:20:04 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Luggage Rack I haven't checked out the dimensions on this product, but there is a no-drill trunk mounted luggage rack offered on e-bay. Check out Item number: 4539763270. They offer sizes to fit BMW Z3, Miata, Porsche Boxster and Mercedes SLK. Perhaps someone can look into the dimensions and report back whether any would fit a TR6. If nothing else, a great model after which to design your own. And once again, I highly recommend a piece of duct tape under any clamps or rubber supports placed on a painted surface. Steve '72 TR6 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 11:15:17 2006 From: Harold Sawatsky To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2006 12:11:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine compartment Can anyone direct me to a site or does anyone have color digital images of the engine bay from the firewall to the fan from all angles etc for a 56TR3. I am looking for pictures that are fairly accurate. I'm in the process of putting the motor back in and after 29 years, there are a few things that I'm guessing at plus the fellow I bought the car from 33 years ago did some of his own modifications. I think (haha) that I have an idea where most things go but not sure. Thanks Harold TS11893 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 12:13:35 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Harold Sawatsky" Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 15:08:45 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Engine compartment Hi Harold, Go to www.rucompatible.com/triumph , click on restorations and go to Barry Shaffer. Let me know if this is what you need. Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harold Sawatsky" To: Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 02:11 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine compartment > Can anyone direct me to a site or does anyone have color digital images of the engine bay from the firewall to the fan from all angles etc for a 56TR3. I am looking for pictures that are fairly accurate. I'm in the process of putting the motor back in and after 29 years, there are a few things that I'm guessing at plus the fellow I bought the car from 33 years ago did some of his own modifications. I think (haha) that I have an idea where most things go but not sure. > > Thanks > Harold > TS11893 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 12:13:35 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Harold Sawatsky" Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 15:11:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] pic Alex Should have been Barry Shefner, sorry to Barry. Alex === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 17:38:17 2006 From: "Jim Muller" To: Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2006 20:36:38 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] blasphemy I say On 8 Oct 2006 at 11:35, Lou Metelko wrote: > > Have you also seen the TR2 disc brake rotors on eBay ? > > > To consider such a thought is sheer blasphemy! Have you seen the "1968 TR6", also described as a very rare TR250? (Yes, it's a 250.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller@rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 17:38:35 2006 From: "Ken Gano, home" To: "Triumph List" Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 19:38:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Little Egypt Would anyone living in far Southern Illinois please contact me off list. Thanks Ken Gano === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 20:49:22 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: list Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 23:47:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ---------- Original Message ---------- To: list (triumphs@autox.team.net) From: (dorpaul@negia.net) Subject: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Date: 0/0/0 12:00:00a > List, > I've been trying to get on the stupid o-ring for 2 hours. > Does anyone have an tricks to get this rubber o-ring on the oil filter > head? It's suppose to get replaced at every oil filter change. But i CAN'T GET > IT TO STAY ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 > > i WILL BE BUYING A SPIN0ON OIL FILTER SOON!!!!!!!!!!!1 > > tHANKS, > pAUL dORSEY > 60 TR3 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 21:03:28 2006 From: MMoore8425@aol.com To: dorpaul@negia.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 00:02:26 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In a message dated 10/8/2006 8:51:35 PM Pacific Standard Time, dorpaul@negia.net writes: To: list (triumphs@autox.team.net) From: (dorpaul@negia.net) Subject: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Date: 0/0/0 12:00:00a > List, > I've been trying to get on the stupid o-ring for 2 hours. > Does anyone have an tricks to get this rubber o-ring on the oil filter > head? It's suppose to get replaced at every oil filter change. But i CAN'T GET > IT TO STAY ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 > > i WILL BE BUYING A SPIN0ON OIL FILTER SOON!!!!!!!!!!!1 > > tHANKS, > pAUL dORSEY > 60 TR3 Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html Paul, When that happened to me, it was because I had several o rings stacked up in the housiing. Take an ice pick and jam in the groove and see if you have any there already. Best, Mike Moore === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Sun Oct 8 21:05:06 2006 From: "jim hearn" To: Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 20:59:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Question on the 1974 TR6 horn button How do you remove the horn button on a 1974 TR6? Thanks Jim === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 03:41:53 2006 From: Cosmo Kramer To: triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 03:39:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for: Hi List! Would the owner or web master, the person who started: "TRIUMPH Owners", Please contact me OFF THIS LIST? TIA, & sorry to break up the continuity. -Cosmo Kramer Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 04:11:58 2006 From: DLylis@aol.com To: dorpaul@negia.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 07:09:13 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are trying to get it to stay on? It fits in the groove on the block. You still need to use this for the spin on, the beauty is with the spin on, once it's in the groove, it stays there. I agree, see if you can dig out any that are in there. If there aren't, and you still have difficulty, put some STP or like lubricant on the rubber and that will stick it in place while you position the filter. === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 05:08:46 2006 From: Bob Labuz To: "Paul Dorsey" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 08:03:33 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On Sunday 08 October 2006 11:47 pm, Paul Dorsey wrote: > ---------- Original Message ---------- > To: list (triumphs@autox.team.net) > From: (dorpaul@negia.net) > Subject: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > Date: 0/0/0 12:00:00a > > > List, > > I've been trying to get on the stupid o-ring for 2 hours. > > Does anyone have an tricks to get this rubber o-ring on the oil filter > > head? It's suppose to get replaced at every oil filter change. But i > > CAN'T GET IT TO STAY ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 > > > > i WILL BE BUYING A SPIN0ON OIL FILTER SOON!!!!!!!!!!!1 > > > > tHANKS, > > pAUL dORSEY > > 60 TR3 > Paul, Unless there is something wrong with either the rubber ring or the grove it sits there is no "trick" required. The only problem is if there is already a ring in place that I have heard. I guess you could cover it with a bit of grease if it keeps falling out. What I have done over the years is "never" pull the ring unless there is a leak. I always use the one that is in place. And I have never had a leak and have tons of spare rings that will never be used. I am guessing the one in the 3 is over 20 years old. Changing the filter is a bit of a mess but mine just spins off once I loosen the rear bolt. Then after cleaning and a new filter, I just spin on the cover until finger tight and then tighten. Very similar procedure to the spin on oil filter procedure. Bob === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 05:44:31 2006 From: Dave1massey@cs.com To: jimhearn1@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 08:34:40 EDT Subject: Re: [TR] Question on the 1974 TR6 horn button In a message dated 10/8/2006 11:07:35 PM Central Standard Time, jimhearn1@comcast.net writes: > How do you remove the horn button on a 1974 TR6? Thanks Jim > It pulls out. Slip a small screwdriver under the metal ring just behind the button and pry it out. Dave === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 06:41:06 2006 From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts@charter.net> To: , "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 09:42:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] ball joint removal I replaced the ball joint yesterday. I used the jaw type tool. Had to get it from Napa, wasn't available from Auto zone or Advanced. Paid about $5 extra for the convience of get it now. 21.00. Popped right out no problem. Auto Zone did have the pickle fork type tool for $10.00 or free rental with 15.00 deposit. The replacement (Tiawan), ball joint threaded stem was about a 1/4 shorter than the original, so the nut is flush with the end of it. Cheers, Al Salvatore 76 TR6 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 07:44:17 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: list Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 10:33:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] greenish gray oil Thanks to everyone who submitted suggestions about o-ring staying in place! I'll now start looking for a Spin-on Conversion Kit for my Tecalmetit. Does anyone have an extra one? Doesn't the head stay on the engine? Do they hit the fuel pump? Is Moss or TRF the way to go? I've changed my old oil filter before, but, I wanted to use up all my Crossland cannister-type filters before any swapover (and now I'm ready.) Also, the oil I had just put in the motor, ran it, and covered the car prior to a rain. It seems I left the dipstick out and water might have gotten into the engine because it was greenish-gray (olive colored) oil. I'm hoping that's what color water turns the oil. That's the reason I'm changing it so soon. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 08:09:11 2006 From: William McLeod To: "Paul Dorsey" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 07:59:34 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] greenish gray oil On Oct 9, 2006, at 7:33 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > > Also, the oil I had just put in the motor, ran it, and covered the > car prior to a rain. It seems I left the dipstick out and water > might have gotten into the engine because it was greenish-gray > (olive colored) oil. I'm hoping that's what color water turns the > oil. > I find it very hard to believe that you could get enough water in through the dipstick hole to make the oil change color at all. Is your oil filler cap covered with scum on the inside? Generally water turns oil a tan color.... Regards, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 08:52:40 2006 From: "Randall" To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts@charter.net>, Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 08:40:44 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] ball joint removal > The replacement (Tiawan), ball joint threaded stem was about a 1/4 shorter > than the original, so the nut is flush with the end of it. If there isn't at least one thread showing above the nyloc insert, I'd either get a different ball joint or use some other method of locking the nut. I've had nylocs back off when the bolt doesn't protrude. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 10:09:53 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" , Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 10:06:32 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] greenish gray oil > It seems I left the dipstick out and water might have gotten > into the engine because it was greenish-gray (olive colored) > oil. I'm hoping that's what color water turns the oil. What color was the oil you put in ? I agree with Bill, not likely you got enough water through the dipstick hole to worry about. Water mixed thoroughly with oil turns a white color (mayonnaise is basically a water/oil mixture) but the result can be tinted by many things. Generally, in a car engine, it winds up being a tan color ("chocolate milkshake"). But if the water was just poured in without the engine being run afterwards, the oil will still look like oil. It takes vigorous agitation (like being run through the bearings) to mix them. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 10:21:40 2006 From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: "Triumphs list" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 13:18:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR rocker assembly rebuild I know that I saw information from a list member raving about getting their rocker assembly rebuilt...but I can't find it anywhere. Please send the info again and I'll keep it forever. TIA Tom 61 TR3A engine out and ready to rebuild 62 TR4 - also down for a rebuild,but waiting in line 73 Stag - ready to go to Eurofest in two weeks === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 10:36:27 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: list Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 13:33:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? TIA FOR YOUR HELP I've now drained out all the oil and the procedure I used is below: I don't recall any oil on the oil cap as I took it off, and, laid it out in the sun (so the discoloration might have melted). And previously, I had only ran the motor, FORGETTING TO REINSTALL THE DIPSTICK, and with the oil in it for 5 minutes after a one day rainstorm. I had quickly put the dipstick in, and pulled it back out and saw the oil was greenish olive colored. I drained the oil and it's deffinitely olive-colored and the total run time on this Walmart Techron 20w-50 (and also part 10w-30) was only 20 minutes accumulated over a week's time as I only started it once before during this time!! I think that this "Techron" was regular colored prior to me using it. I bought the Techron cause it was 25 cents cheaper/quart. Also they only had 4 quarts of 20w-50 so I also added 2 quarts of the 10W-30. But, from now on I am using 'Valvoline 20w50' period. Am looking at the Moss diagram (I know it's not theirs) and under the Tecalemit picture I put on the correct parts togather. However, the circlip and spring clip (immediatly before and after the filter itself, have been lost, Moss says their 'NA'. This doesn't bother me, cause they don't look essential just convienant. What bothers me is that after The trick using grease to hold the o-ring and it ACTUALLY WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!, AND TIGHTENING IT UP TIGHT, THE CANNINSTER STILL TURNS! Also: All looks 100% right angles and all, and I was underneath the car making sure the cannister was sealed correctly against the now inplaced black o-ring, I then tightened it correctly, got out from under the car, and standing above it now, I grabbed the cannister and it still turned. slb*asdk!!!! Simmering down, I think it has previously been tightened with an extra washer which sat at the end of the big bolt--- so, I don't think anything is really wrong,but that all I need to replace the washer--don't you agree? ----------------------------------------------- On Oct 9, 2006, at 7:33 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > > Also, the oil I had just put in the motor, ran it, and covered the > car prior to a rain. It seems I left the dipstick out and water > might have gotten into the engine because it was greenish-gray > (olive colored) oil. I'm hoping that's what color water turns the > oil. > I find it very hard to believe that you could get enough water in through the dipstick hole to make the oil change color at all. Is your oil filler cap covered with scum on the inside? Generally water turns oil a tan color.... Regards, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 11:06:04 2006 From: "Francis P. Gowash" To: "Triumph TR3A" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 13:58:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? >>I drained the oil and it's deffinitely olive-colored and the total run time on this Walmart Techron 20w-50 (and also part 10w-30) was only 20 minutes accumulated over a week's time as I only started it once before during this time!!<< Doesn't new motor oil kind of look like olive oil any how? Fran 58 TR3A === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 11:14:34 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'THOMAS FANSHER'" , Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 11:02:29 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] TR rocker assembly rebuild > I know that I saw information from a list member raving about > getting their > rocker assembly rebuilt...but I can't find it anywhere. I frequently rave Tom; it only rarely has anything to do with good service ! However, I was very happy with : Rocker Arm Specialist 19841 Hirsch Court Anderson, CA 96007 Tel (530) 378-1075 fax (530) 378-1177 mailto:rocker@c-zone.net http://www.shastacounty.com/rockerarm/ For less than what the parts would have cost me, I got back what looked like a brand-new rocker shaft. No more mangled adjusters, no more rounded locknuts. And of course the shaft, bushings and rocker tips looked perfect. They did make a slight mistake when assembling one of them (I had two shafts done). But it was no big deal, I just popped the end cap off and turned the pedestal back around. I also added Loctite to the screw that locks the shaft to the rear pedestal, even though they put a new lockwasher on it. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 11:17:26 2006 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn To: TR Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2006 11:07:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Paul Dorsey wrote: >>...But i CAN'T GET >>IT TO STAY ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 >> As noted, make sure there is no ring already in there (I found 2 in mine when I finally converted to a spin-on) a dental pick and a mirror are an easy way to do this. Back when I still used the cartridge filter and did the 'Capt Hazelwood' oil change the filter came with 2 seals of differing sizes. One thick, one thin I think. As I recall it was the thick one that was for the Pur-O-Lator. Geo -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.13.1/466 - Release Date: 10/7/2006 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 11:32:24 2006 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 14:25:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] O2T: ASAP Oil Changin' 101- GRINDING??? On 2nd Thought (O2T), Adding an additional washer to the Tecalemit Convention Cannister might introduce an oil leak. I had planned to put it right next to the washered-bolthead. I sought to use it to cause it to tighten-up 'earlier'. My problem had been that although the long bolt is tightend up when installed, the oil filter cannister continues to rotate and is slightly loose and not making a seal. HOW ABOUT CAREFULLY GRINDING OFF 1/8" FROM THE LENGTH OF THE SHANK OF THE BOLT?? === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 14:25:45 2006 From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" , Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 14:22:32 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] O2T: ASAP Oil Changin' 101- GRINDING??? > HOW ABOUT CAREFULLY GRINDING OFF 1/8" FROM THE LENGTH OF THE > SHANK OF THE BOLT?? Paul, I'm not too familiar with the Tecalemit head, as all my TRs have had the Purolator head. But assuming it is similar, I would want to carefully investigate WHY it doesn't fit. That bolt didn't just magically get 1/8" longer !! Is there perhaps something stuck in the hole that it threads into ? Could the canister be the wrong one ? Has someone tried to replace the bolt with a hardware store item ? There is a lot of force on that bolt, and it screws into a relatively soft aluminum casting. If the bolt pulls out of the casting, you will instantly have no oil pressure ! IMO the bolt should pull up snug on the canister even without the gasket installed. If it doesn't, there is something wrong. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 14:41:53 2006 From: "jim hearn" To: Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 14:39:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield chrome trim question Can anyone please tell me if the windshield chrome trim on a '74 TR6 is decorative only or does it serve some other purpose? Is it possible to replace this trim without removing the windshield? Thanks, Jim === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 14:49:16 2006 From: "Chris Simonsen" To: TR Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 17:44:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] greenish gray oil Paul, Your oil doesn't smell like gas, does it??? If so, your fuel pump diaphram is comprimised. How full does the oil read on the dip stick? If quite full, and your coolant is the same color green..... I'm with Randall and Bill, I don't think it could be from an open dip stick. Either way, I wouldnt run it until the green oil is changed out. Good luck Chris 63 Tr4 === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 15:43:17 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Paul Dorsey" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 18:41:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] O2T: ASAP Oil Changin' 101- GRINDING??? Hello to all, I need some help in trying to help Paul with this bolt issue. I have an NOS (2) bolts for the canister filter for the TR3. Unfortunately, I just gave back my borrowed Std Triumph Parts book. If someone can look up the number and ID which filter head it goes to it might help Paul out. The part # is 501078. It has the following lengths. (1) Top of bolt head to bottom of threads is 8-7/8". (2) Bottom of bolt head to bottom of threads is 8-1/2". Thread length is 1". My initial guess is Purolator. Paul, if no ones has this information I will pull the one I have from a spare engine and get the spec's so you can compare them to your bolt. If you need a bolt after all this contact me off list. Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 02:25 PM Subject: [TR] O2T: ASAP Oil Changin' 101- GRINDING??? > On 2nd Thought (O2T), > Adding an additional washer to the Tecalemit Convention Cannister might introduce an oil leak. I had planned to put it right next to the washered-bolthead. I sought to use it to cause it to tighten-up 'earlier'. My problem had been that although the long bolt is tightend up when installed, the oil filter cannister continues to rotate and is slightly loose and not making a seal. > > HOW ABOUT CAREFULLY GRINDING OFF 1/8" FROM THE LENGTH OF THE SHANK OF THE BOLT?? === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 15:56:09 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Paul Dorsey" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 18:53:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? Paul, According to Roger Williams "How to restore a TR3", the difference between the two bolts is the Purolator bolt has a coarse thread and the Tecalemit has fine threads. The bolt I mentioned in a previous post on this has what appears to be a fine thread, meaning these dimensions are for a Tecalemit bolt. Supposedly they are the same length. Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Dorsey" To: "list" Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 01:33 PM Subject: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? > TIA FOR YOUR HELP > I've now drained out all the oil and the procedure I used is below: > > I don't recall any oil on the oil cap as I took it off, and, laid it out in the sun (so the discoloration might have melted). And previously, I had only ran the motor, FORGETTING TO REINSTALL THE DIPSTICK, and with the oil in it for 5 minutes after a one day rainstorm. I had quickly put the dipstick in, and pulled it back out and saw the oil was greenish olive colored. I drained the oil and it's deffinitely olive-colored and the total run time on this Walmart Techron 20w-50 (and also part 10w-30) was only 20 minutes accumulated over a week's time as I only started it once before during this time!! > I think that this "Techron" was regular colored prior to me using it. I bought the Techron cause it was 25 cents cheaper/quart. Also they only had 4 quarts of 20w-50 so I also added 2 quarts of the 10W-30. But, from now on I am using 'Valvoline 20w50' period. > > Am looking at the Moss diagram (I know it's not theirs) and under the Tecalemit picture I put on the correct parts togather. However, the circlip and spring clip (immediatly before and after the filter itself, have been lost, Moss says their 'NA'. This doesn't bother me, cause they don't look essential just convienant. > > What bothers me is that after > > The trick using grease to hold the o-ring and it ACTUALLY WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!, > AND TIGHTENING IT UP TIGHT, THE CANNINSTER STILL TURNS! Also: All looks 100% right angles and all, and I was underneath the car making sure the cannister was sealed correctly against the now inplaced black o-ring, I then tightened it correctly, got out from under the car, and standing above it now, I grabbed the cannister and it still turned. slb*asdk!!!! Simmering down, I think it has previously been tightened with an extra washer which sat at the end of the big bolt--- so, I don't think anything is really wrong,but that all I need to replace the washer--don't you agree? > ----------------------------------------------- > On Oct 9, 2006, at 7:33 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > > > > > Also, the oil I had just put in the motor, ran it, and covered the > > car prior to a rain. It seems I left the dipstick out and water > > might have gotten into the engine because it was greenish-gray > > (olive colored) oil. I'm hoping that's what color water turns the > > oil. > > > I find it very hard to believe that you could get enough water in > through the dipstick hole to make the oil change color at all. Is > your oil filler cap covered with scum on the inside? Generally water > turns oil a tan color.... > Regards, Bill > Slightly Classics > Tucson === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:05:02 2006 From: "Terry Smith" To: Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 19:03:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3A Quasi tad bit teeny weeny fuddled Good news: Put on Justin's silicone valve cover gasket...ahem, correctly this time. Hopefully that will stem the flow of oil down the back of the engine. Apologies to all, especially Justin, for wondering aloud to the list whether the gasket was too long. Also good news: while I had the cover off, I readjusted the valves. Read something in the manual I'd missed all those other times: if you want performance, adjust inlet and exhuast valves at .013. ...However...there will be corresponding valve clatter. So...I adjusted down to .011, and can't believe how much quieter the ride got. It helps, though, that the exhaust valve on #4 was way loose, and is now correct. Bad news: Two questions: 1) The nuts for adjusting the valves are smaller than 1/2 inch, but are too big for 13 mm and too small for 12 mm. What the heck are these? Do they come in a size I can get a wrench for? 2) Most perplexing of all, I find that my points with only a couple thousand miles on them, are adjusted as gapped as I can get them, and they're barely .015. I put on a set of new TRF points, thinking the arm that rides on the rotor might have worn down. Exactly the same problem. I don't recall this problem when I first did the car, but maybe. Can the steel rotor be that worn? Or might I have been getting the wrong points? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:10:51 2006 From: "Arakelian, Peter" To: Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 16:08:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield chrome trim question >Can anyone please tell me if the windshield chrome trim on a '74 TR6 is decorative only or does it serve some other purpose? Is it possible to replace this trim without removing the windshield? Thanks, Jim The trim does serve to keep additional pressure on, but can probably be done without. It can be put on after windshield installation, but it takes fairly aggressive work with a rubber mallet and soap. Had a local glass shop install it once years ago, and was shocked by the amount of banging done! Peter === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:13:37 2006 From: "Randall" To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 16:12:40 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? > The bolt I mentioned in a previous post on > this has what > appears to be a fine thread, meaning these dimensions are for > a Tecalemit > bolt. Supposedly they are the same length. Is that the same as an early Purolator, or a later Purolator ? They are different ! Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:32:14 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Terry Smith" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 19:30:29 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3A Quasi tad bit teeny weeny fuddled Hi Terry, Had this problem with my 6. The normal area for separating the points with a flat head screw driver did not do it for me even with a large screw driver. I had to spread them at a different point. They will open. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Smith" To: Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 07:03 PM Subject: [TR] Tr3A Quasi tad bit teeny weeny fuddled > Good news: Put on Justin's silicone valve cover gasket...ahem, correctly this > time. Hopefully that will stem the flow of oil down the back of the engine. > Apologies to all, especially Justin, for wondering aloud to the list whether > the gasket was too long. > > Also good news: while I had the cover off, I readjusted the valves. Read > something in the manual I'd missed all those other times: if you want > performance, adjust inlet and exhuast valves at .013. ...However...there will > be corresponding valve clatter. So...I adjusted down to .011, and can't > believe how much quieter the ride got. It helps, though, that the exhaust > valve on #4 was way loose, and is now correct. > > Bad news: Two questions: > > 1) The nuts for adjusting the valves are smaller than 1/2 inch, but are too > big for 13 mm and too small for 12 mm. What the heck are these? Do they come > in a size I can get a wrench for? > > 2) Most perplexing of all, I find that my points with only a couple thousand > miles on them, are adjusted as gapped as I can get them, and they're barely > .015. I put on a set of new TRF points, thinking the arm that rides on the > rotor might have worn down. Exactly the same problem. I don't recall this > problem when I first did the car, but maybe. Can the steel rotor be that > worn? Or might I have been getting the wrong points? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:36:07 2006 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 16:34:23 -0700 Subject: RE: [TR] Tr3A Quasi tad bit teeny weeny fuddled > Also good news: while I had the cover off, I readjusted the > valves. Read > something in the manual I'd missed all those other times: if you want > performance, adjust inlet and exhuast valves at .013. Strange ... what manual was that ? The factory clearance was .010" for all but early TR2 with cast-iron rocker pedestals. And the comment there about "high speed motoring" was not for increased performance, but to reduce valve float at high engine rpm. After the alloy pedestals came in, .010" was the spec for both normal and "high speed". > 1) The nuts for adjusting the valves are smaller than 1/2 > inch, but are too > big for 13 mm That statement makes no sense ... a 13mm wrench is very slightly larger than a 1/2" AF wrench. Are you sure you didn't pick up a 1/2" Whitworth wrench by mistake ? > What the heck are > these? Do they come > in a size I can get a wrench for? Mine are 1/2". > 2) Most perplexing of all, I find that my points with only a > couple thousand > miles on them, are adjusted as gapped as I can get them, and > they're barely > .015. I put on a set of new TRF points, thinking the arm > that rides on the > rotor might have worn down. Exactly the same problem. I > don't recall this > problem when I first did the car, but maybe. Can the steel > rotor be that > worn? Or might I have been getting the wrong points? Both seem unlikely to me. First thing I would check is wobble in the distributor shaft ... as the bushing wears, they move farther away from the points. Next I would look to be sure the screw is what the fixed contact is hitting when you try to move it farther away. Could be a piece of swarf or something under the washer. Then I'd look at whether the point plate itself is in good shape and assembled properly. There is kind of a funny spigot where the moveable plate sits over the fixed plate ... might be the moveable plate is dislodged or has worn through the spigot (unlikely). The TRF P/N is LUDSB101, fits TR2-6 and some MGs. Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:45:42 2006 From: "Eureka Saws Co, Inc." To: "Randall" Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 19:42:23 -0400 Subject: Re: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? Hi Randall, Here it is: pp93 with picture. "There are 3 types of oil filter, and while the replacement filter elements are identical, the seating ring and numerous other spares are different, making it important that you identify the filter system you have. The early "bypass" filter arrangement can be identified by the absence of a hexagonal nut on the top of the casting that bolts to the crankcase. All later cars use full flow filters which have a hexagonal nut on the top of the casting. There are two types of full flow systems, though, the Purolator and the Tecalemit. If you look closely you should find the manufacturers name cast into the filter head, but as a secondary check, the Purolator uses a coarse thread on the long central bolt while the Tecalemit uses a fine one." I would think Paul needs to first look for this hexagonal nut. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 07:12 PM Subject: RE: [TR] ASAP Oil Changin' 101- olive colored? > > The bolt I mentioned in a previous post on > > this has what > > appears to be a fine thread, meaning these dimensions are for > > a Tecalemit > > bolt. Supposedly they are the same length. > > Is that the same as an early Purolator, or a later Purolator ? They are > different ! > > Randall === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org From triumphs-owner@autox.team.net Mon Oct 9 16:58:30 2006 From: Bob Labuz