Subject: Re: [Tigers] Door Alignment

From: Jay Laifman <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 May 2026 14:47:40 -0700

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The hinge is a wedge.  So as you mount it sliding out it pushes the door bac=
k, and of course sliding in will push the door forward.  And if you do the t=
op and bottom hinge differently, it will angle the door up or down depending=
 on what you do.  Don=E2=80=99t bend anything!  Just need to slide them corr=
ectly. =20

> On May 20, 2026, at 1:26=E2=80=AFPM, Tom Witt via Tigers <[email-masked]=
m.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
>  I'm dealing with the 101 final steps before I begin to primer my Tiger. T=
he drivers door has always had decent alignment for a 60's British car when c=
losed (picture 1). And closure took little effort.
>=20
>  Today I removed the door latch and when I closed the door the alignment w=
as significantly off, about 3/16" to 1/4" at the upper edge (picture 2). A s=
econdary, possibly contributing issue is the window channel gap was inconsis=
tent (picture 3) thus I had attempted to make the pieces parallel. After I h=
ad bent those then I noticed the elevated gap on the latch end. Assuming it w=
as the parallel work on the door channel that was causing the problem I bent=
 it back where it was. Predominantly the gap (upward elevation) at the door l=
atch was still off. And putting pressure on the door gap to increase it (eve=
n beyond where it was) did not help. Therefore it is my assumption that tryi=
ng to fix the window channel gap is not the greater cause. It was the remova=
l of the latch that is causing the problem.
>=20
>  Curious I re-installed the latch, closed the door and the alignment was t=
he same, decent, closes relatively easy as it had been for the past 26 years=
. BTW, the car is on jackstands but they are under the axles (not the frame)=
 so the car is and has been "loaded" as it would sit on the road the past 26=
 years.
>=20
>  SOOOooo..., my question is, it this typical? Is the upward rise at the la=
tch end of the door intentional (and corrected to alignment when closed at t=
he latch) perhaps to help reduce door rattle? I had considered shims on the h=
inges for better alignment but the screws won't come loose even with an impa=
ct screwdriver. I'm willing to live with it because when the door is closed a=
ll is good. This is no show car. Just a basket case Tiger being made service=
able. But I wanted to know other peoples experience.
>=20
> =20
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> [email-masked]
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmai=
l.com
>=20
>=20

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<html class=3D"apple-mail-supports-explicit-dark-mode"><head><meta http-equi=
v=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body dir=3D=
"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">The hinge is a wedge. &nbsp;S=
o as you mount it sliding out it pushes the door back, and of course sliding=
 in will push the door forward. &nbsp;And if you do the top and bottom hinge=
 differently, it will angle the door up or down depending on what you do. &n=
bsp;Don=E2=80=99t bend anything! &nbsp;Just need to slide them correctly. &n=
bsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On May 20, 2026, at=
 1:26=E2=80=AFPM, Tom Witt via Tigers &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<b=
r><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF=

 =20

    <meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
 =20
 =20
    <p>&nbsp;I'm dealing with the 101 final steps before I begin to primer m=
y
      Tiger. The drivers door has always had decent alignment for a 60's
      British car when closed (picture 1). And closure took little
      effort.</p>
    <p>&nbsp;Today I removed the door latch and when I closed the door the
      alignment was significantly off, about 3/16" to 1/4" at the upper
      edge (picture 2). A secondary, possibly contributing issue is the
      window channel gap was inconsistent (picture 3) thus I had
      attempted to make the pieces parallel. After I had bent those then
      I noticed the elevated gap on the latch end. Assuming it was the
      parallel work on the door channel that was causing the problem I
      bent it back where it was. Predominantly the gap (upward
      elevation) at the door latch was still off. And putting pressure
      on the door gap to increase it (even beyond where it was) did not
      help. Therefore it is my assumption that trying to fix the window
      channel gap is not the greater cause. It was the removal of the
      latch that is causing the problem.</p>
    <p>&nbsp;Curious I re-installed the latch, closed the door and the
      alignment was the <i><u>same, decent, closes relatively easy as
          it had been</u></i> for the past 26 years. BTW, the car is on
      jackstands but they are under the axles (not the frame) so the car
      is and has been "loaded" as it would sit on the road the past 26
      years.</p>
    <p>&nbsp;SOOOooo..., my question is, it this typical? Is the upward rise=

      at the latch end of the door intentional (and corrected to
      alignment when closed at the latch) perhaps to help reduce door
      rattle? I had considered shims on the hinges for better alignment
      but the screws won't come loose even with an impact screwdriver.
      I'm willing to live with it because when the door is closed all is
      good. This is no show car. Just a basket case Tiger being made
      serviceable. But I wanted to know other peoples experience.</p>
    <p><div>&lt;GiAJjtv3DCCKjsNE.png&gt;</div>&nbsp;<div>&lt;8nmRWT7U5I0EPuC=
L.png&gt;</div></p>
    <p><div>&lt;u4M0amNGzrmJNdso.png&gt;</div></p>
 =20
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><sp=
an>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gma=
il.com</span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body=
></html>=

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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---

From: Jay <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 May 2026 16:19:09 -0700

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And another warning.  The hinges and doors were already assembled before =
the car was originally painted.  So if you have them all removed before =
your layers of primer and paint (and not just one layer, but 4 surfaces =
of layers and paint), you will effectively be pushing the doors =
backwards with all that added thickness.  Mine ended up so much that I =
had to sand it all down and redo it.

> On May 20, 2026, at 2:47=E2=80=AFPM, Jay Laifman =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> The hinge is a wedge.  So as you mount it sliding out it pushes the =
door back, and of course sliding in will push the door forward.  And if =
you do the top and bottom hinge differently, it will angle the door up =
or down depending on what you do.  Don=E2=80=99t bend anything!  Just =
need to slide them correctly. =20
>=20
>> On May 20, 2026, at 1:26=E2=80=AFPM, Tom Witt via Tigers =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>>=20
>> =EF=BB=BF
>>  I'm dealing with the 101 final steps before I begin to primer my =
Tiger. The drivers door has always had decent alignment for a 60's =
British car when closed (picture 1). And closure took little effort.
>>=20
>>  Today I removed the door latch and when I closed the door the =
alignment was significantly off, about 3/16" to 1/4" at the upper edge =
(picture 2). A secondary, possibly contributing issue is the window =
channel gap was inconsistent (picture 3) thus I had attempted to make =
the pieces parallel. After I had bent those then I noticed the elevated =
gap on the latch end. Assuming it was the parallel work on the door =
channel that was causing the problem I bent it back where it was. =
Predominantly the gap (upward elevation) at the door latch was still =
off. And putting pressure on the door gap to increase it (even beyond =
where it was) did not help. Therefore it is my assumption that trying to =
fix the window channel gap is not the greater cause. It was the removal =
of the latch that is causing the problem.
>>=20
>>  Curious I re-installed the latch, closed the door and the alignment =
was the same, decent, closes relatively easy as it had been for the past =
26 years. BTW, the car is on jackstands but they are under the axles =
(not the frame) so the car is and has been "loaded" as it would sit on =
the road the past 26 years.
>>=20
>>  SOOOooo..., my question is, it this typical? Is the upward rise at =
the latch end of the door intentional (and corrected to alignment when =
closed at the latch) perhaps to help reduce door rattle? I had =
considered shims on the hinges for better alignment but the screws won't =
come loose even with an impact screwdriver. I'm willing to live with it =
because when the door is closed all is good. This is no show car. Just a =
basket case Tiger being made serviceable. But I wanted to know other =
peoples experience.
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>> Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">And another =
warning. &nbsp;The hinges and doors were already assembled before the =
car was originally painted. &nbsp;So if you have them all removed before =
your layers of primer and paint (and not just one layer, but 4 surfaces =
of layers and paint), you will effectively be pushing the doors =
backwards with all that added thickness. &nbsp;Mine ended up so much =
that I had to sand it all down and redo it.<br =
id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage"><div><br><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><div>On May 20, 2026, at 2:47=E2=80=AFPM, Jay Laifman =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type"=
 content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><div dir=3D"auto"><div =
dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">The hinge is a wedge. &nbsp;So as you =
mount it sliding out it pushes the door back, and of course sliding in =
will push the door forward. &nbsp;And if you do the top and bottom hinge =
differently, it will angle the door up or down depending on what you do. =
&nbsp;Don=E2=80=99t bend anything! &nbsp;Just need to slide them =
correctly. &nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On =
May 20, 2026, at 1:26=E2=80=AFPM, Tom Witt via Tigers =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; =
wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div =
dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

 =20

    <meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8"><p>&nbsp;I'm dealing with the 101 final steps before I =
begin to primer my
      Tiger. The drivers door has always had decent alignment for a 60's
      British car when closed (picture 1). And closure took little
      effort.</p><p>&nbsp;Today I removed the door latch and when I =
closed the door the
      alignment was significantly off, about 3/16" to 1/4" at the upper
      edge (picture 2). A secondary, possibly contributing issue is the
      window channel gap was inconsistent (picture 3) thus I had
      attempted to make the pieces parallel. After I had bent those then
      I noticed the elevated gap on the latch end. Assuming it was the
      parallel work on the door channel that was causing the problem I
      bent it back where it was. Predominantly the gap (upward
      elevation) at the door latch was still off. And putting pressure
      on the door gap to increase it (even beyond where it was) did not
      help. Therefore it is my assumption that trying to fix the window
      channel gap is not the greater cause. It was the removal of the
      latch that is causing the problem.</p><p>&nbsp;Curious I =
re-installed the latch, closed the door and the
      alignment was the <i><u>same, decent, closes relatively easy as
          it had been</u></i> for the past 26 years. BTW, the car is on
      jackstands but they are under the axles (not the frame) so the car
      is and has been "loaded" as it would sit on the road the past 26
      years.</p><p>&nbsp;SOOOooo..., my question is, it this typical? Is =
the upward rise
      at the latch end of the door intentional (and corrected to
      alignment when closed at the latch) perhaps to help reduce door
      rattle? I had considered shims on the hinges for better alignment
      but the screws won't come loose even with an impact screwdriver.
      I'm willing to live with it because when the door is closed all is
      good. This is no show car. Just a basket case Tiger being made
      serviceable. But I wanted to know other peoples =
experience.</p><div><br =
class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div><div>&lt;GiAJjtv3DCCKjsNE.png&gt;=
</div>&nbsp;<div>&lt;8nmRWT7U5I0EPuCL.png&gt;</div><div><br =
class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div><div><br =
class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div><div>&lt;u4M0amNGzrmJNdso.png&gt;=
</div><div><br class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div>
 =20
=
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></sp=
an><br><span>[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate=
: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers =
http://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe=
: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]</span><=
br><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></div></div></bloc=
kquote></div><br></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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