Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

From: Donald Antilla via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 17:45:50 -0500

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Joe
I=E2=80=99m pretty familiar with wiring but in this case I hesitate to recom=
mend how to change wiring without havi
G a partial schematic.=20
Might you have a schematic or a photo of the back of the Tach?
Coincidentally, Peter Bayer lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can cal=
l him directly if I were able to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wir=
ing.=20
Then, after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation.=
=20
If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact me directly a=
t [email-masked]
Don=20

=46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 5:29 PM, Joe Brown <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They hav=
e me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire=
 that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into=
 the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was r=
ebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out a=
nd it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new w=
ire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to t=
hat? =20
>=20
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
>=20
>> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <[email-masked]> wr=
ote:
>> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the s=
tarter is cranking.=20
>> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected an=
d the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor.=20
>> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to=
 the ballast resistor.=20
>> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor a=
nd see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor.=20
>> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The b=
allast resistor.=20
>>=20
>> =46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
>> Or 203-264-8301 home
>>=20
>> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:
>> >=20
>> > =EF=BB=BF
>> > Hey,
>> >=20
>> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a questio=
n.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fire=
s up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run posi=
tion it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when t=
he key is in the start position.=20
>> >=20
>> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from t=
he solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should a=
lways be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this corr=
ect?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start pos=
ition. =20
>> >=20
>> > Any ideas?
>> >=20
>> > Thanks,
>> > Joe Brown
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >=20
>> > [email-masked]
>> >=20
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>> >=20
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcgl=
obal.net
>> >=20
>> >=20
>>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Joe<div>I=E2=80=99m pretty familiar with wi=
ring but in this case I hesitate to recommend how to change wiring without h=
avi</div><div>G a partial schematic.&nbsp;</div><div>Might you have a schema=
tic or a photo of the back of the Tach?</div><div>Coincidentally, Peter Baye=
r lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can call him directly if I were a=
ble to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wiring.&nbsp;</div><div>Then,=
 after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation.&nbsp=
;</div><div>If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact m=
e directly at [email-masked]</div><div>Don&nbsp;<br><br><div dir=3D"l=
tr">From<span class=3D"Apple-style-span" style=3D"-webkit-tap-highlight-colo=
r: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192=
, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.2304=
69); ">&nbsp;Don's iPhone 203-592-8427</span><div><span class=3D"Apple-style=
-span" style=3D"-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -we=
bkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composit=
ion-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); ">Or 203-264-8301 home</span>=
</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 20, 2019, a=
t 5:29 PM, Joe Brown &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquot=
e></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr"=
>Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.&nbsp; They=
 have me on the right track now.&nbsp; In my new wiring harness I have one w=
hite wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plu=
gged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.&nbsp=
; My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.&nbsp; I o=
hmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.&nbsp=
; So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyb=
ack the ballast wire to that?&nbsp;&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><d=
iv>Joe Brown</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" clas=
s=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px=
 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The star=
ter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is c=
ranking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and t=
he power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to th=
e ballast resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and s=
ee if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ball=
ast resistor. <br>
<br>
=46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
&gt; On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; Hey,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a questio=
n.&nbsp; When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and=
 fires up.&nbsp; But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to th=
e run position it dies.&nbsp; It seems like the ignition system is only gett=
ing power when the key is in the start position. <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.&nbsp; The white/blue wire f=
rom the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there sh=
ould always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.&nbsp; I=
s this correct?&nbsp; I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is i=
n the start position.&nbsp; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Any ideas?<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks,<br>
&gt; Joe Brown<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox=
.team.net</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers</a> <a href=3D"=
http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fa=
[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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From: Donald Antilla via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 17:45:50 -0500

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Joe

tarter is cranking.=20
 the ballast resistor.=20
allast resistor.=20
hive
obal.net

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Gary via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 18:22:28 -0800

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The Signal wire should probably wire to
the points or low side of the coil.
The white wire should not end at the tach
but would do a one loop through the coil
pickup on the back of the stock tach and
then run to the ballast.
You do need 12v to the back of the tach
spade terminal and a ground.
Gary

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <[email-masked]> w=
tarter is cranking.=20
 the ballast resistor.=20
allast resistor.=20
hive
obal.net
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comc=
ast.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">The Signal wire should probably wire to<div=
>the points or low side of the coil.</div><div>The white wire should not end=
 at the tach</div><div>but would do a one loop through the coil</div><div>pi=
ckup on the back of the stock tach and</div><div>then run to the ballast.</d=
iv><div>You do need 12v to the back of the tach</div><div>spade terminal and=
 a ground.</div><div>Gary<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><=
div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, J=
oe Brown via Tigers &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote=
></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr">=
Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.&nbsp; They h=
ave me on the right track now.&nbsp; In my new wiring harness I have one whi=
te wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugg=
ed into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.&nbsp; M=
y tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.&nbsp; I ohme=
d that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.&nbsp; S=
o should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback=
 the ballast wire to that?&nbsp;&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div>=
Joe Brown</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0=
px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The starte=
r solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cr=
anking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and t=
he power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to th=
e ballast resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and s=
ee if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ball=
ast resistor. <br>
<br>
=46rom Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
&gt; On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; Hey,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a questio=
n.&nbsp; When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and=
 fires up.&nbsp; But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to th=
e run position it dies.&nbsp; It seems like the ignition system is only gett=
ing power when the key is in the start position. <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.&nbsp; The white/blue wire f=
rom the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there sh=
ould always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.&nbsp; I=
s this correct?&nbsp; I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is i=
n the start position.&nbsp; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Any ideas?<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks,<br>
&gt; Joe Brown<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox=
.team.net</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers</a> <a href=3D"=
http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fa=
[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><sp=
an>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@com=
cast.net</span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></di=
v></body></html>=

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From: Theo Smit via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 21:49:01 -0700 (MST)

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remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram. 
[ http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg | http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg ] 

So, with respect to that drawing: 
- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position. 
- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge). 
- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up. 
- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running. 
- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive. 

It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch. 

If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ). 

Good luck, 
Theo 

From: "tigers" <[email-masked]> 
To: "Joe Brown" <[email-masked]> 
Cc: "tigers" <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid 

Sent from my iPhone 

On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <[email-masked]> wrote: 

BQ_BEGIN

Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that? 
Thanks, 
Joe Brown 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla < [ mailto:[email-masked] | [email-masked] ] > wrote: 

BQ_BEGIN
The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

>From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427 
Or 203-264-8301 home 

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers < [ mailto:[email-masked] | [email-masked] ] > wrote: 
> 
> 
> Hey, 
> 
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. Is this correct? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Joe Brown 
> [ mailto:[email-masked] | [email-masked] ] 
> 
> Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] 
> Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers | http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers ] [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] 
> 
> Unsubscribe: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked] | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked] ] 
> 
> 

BQ_END

[email-masked] 

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked] 

BQ_END

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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 10pt; color: #000000"><div>remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead,=
 and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Man=
ual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.</div><div>=
<a href=3D"http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring=
.jpg">http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg<=
/a><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>=
So, with respect to that drawing:</div><div>- Your tach should be powered t=
hrough the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connecte=
d to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the =
start position.</div><div>- Your tach should be grounded through the black =
daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (no=
t just gauge to gauge to gauge).</div><div>- The OEM wiring has the coil po=
wer run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal=
 piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind o=
f sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing =
the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wirin=
g diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.</div><=
div>- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resist=
or as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignitio=
n switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast =
resistor when the car is running.</div><div>- The white/blue wire runs from=
 the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive.</div><div><br d=
ata-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>It sounds like you need to make sure that th=
e white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resisto=
r at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transfo=
rmer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.</div><=
div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>If the tach works properly, then yo=
u're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the tran=
sformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engin=
e runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal w=
ire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire=
 to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ).</div><div><br>=
</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Good luck,</div><div>Theo</d=
iv><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-marker=3D"__DIVIDER__"><div data-marker=3D"__HEADE=
RS__"><b>From: </b>"tigers" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"Jo=
e Brown" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc: </b>"tigers" &lt;Tigers@au=
tox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM<br=
><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid<br></div><div><br></div><div=
 data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__">The Signal wire should probably wire to<di=
v>the points or low side of the coil.</div><div>The white wire should not e=
nd at the tach</div><div>but would do a one loop through the coil</div><div=
>pickup on the back of the stock tach and</div><div>then run to the ballast=
.</div><div>You do need 12v to the back of the tach</div><div>spade termina=
l and a ground.</div><div>Gary<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone<=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote>On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brow=
n via Tigers &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div=
><blockquote><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks to Donald Antilla and=
 Ron Fraser for their quick replies.&nbsp; They have me on the right track =
now.&nbsp; In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of=
 the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (=
labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.&nbsp; My tach was rebuilt by =
Nisonger and has the updated electronics.&nbsp; I ohmed that wire out and i=
t is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.&nbsp; So should I run a new=
 wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire t=
o that?&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><div>Thanks,</div><div>Joe Brown</div></div><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 20=
, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px=
 solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The starter solenoid temporarily =
supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. <br>
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and =
the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. <br>
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to t=
he ballast resistor. <br>
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and=
 see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. <br>
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The bal=
last resistor. <br>
<br>
>From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427<br>
Or 203-264-8301 home<br>
<br>
&gt; On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wr=
ote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Hey,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a questi=
on.&nbsp; When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over a=
nd fires up.&nbsp; But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to=
 the run position it dies.&nbsp; It seems like the ignition system is only =
getting power when the key is in the start position. <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.&nbsp; The white/blue wire=
 from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there=
 should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.&nbs=
p; Is this correct?&nbsp; I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the ke=
y is in the start position.&nbsp; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Any ideas?<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks,<br>
&gt; Joe Brown<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">tigers@auto=
x.team.net</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
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&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/f=
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&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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