Subject: [Tigers] wierd in my experience

From: "Russ and Tammy C. via Tigers" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 20:07:21 +0000 (UTC)

Group----Electrical problem for sure?????  My tiger backfires when I flip any switch on the dash.  I think it might be the ignition switch shorting.  It also dies when idling. Anyone have this problem before?  Cause?  You all have been a great help in the recent past for me  and I am looking forward to someone being of help now.  Thank you.  Russ
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From: Gary via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 16:06:27 -0700

ANY switch?
I would check/clean everything, starting at
the battery.
Gary

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From: Gary via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 16:19:14 -0700

Yes Russ,electrical problem.
Not a shorted ign switch.
You should take my 4th grade electricity 
class ;-)
All electric systems are just like a flashlight.
When energized, it’s just like NASCAR 
(closed circuit).  A bad connection anywhere
around the circuit can cause a problem.
Sounds like your spark voltage is marginal.
How are your ground straps at battery and
engine?  On the other hand, it could be on
the hot side...
Gary

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From: Ron Fraser via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 21:51:14 -0400

Russ
	You may be dealing with more than 1 problem; it's hard to say at
this point.

1st you need to have a copy of the wire diagram for your Tiger handy so you
can verify wires are correctly placed in your wire harness.
You may want to disconnect the battery cable before checking wires - your
chose.

The only common point for the switches and ignition is the B post on the
Voltage regulator.
You're going to have to check all the wires at the voltage regulator - tight
connection - clean contacts - good wire connection

The common point here are all the brown wires - check them carefully - one
of those brown wires goes to the starter relay - this is the battery feed
wire.
You're looking for good wire connector ends, clean connectors and terminals,
good wire connections not loose connections.
Careful with the starter relay it is very easy to break the copper terminal
posts - disconnect the battery if you need to work on the starter relay.

Expand checking wires until you find the cause of your problems.

I would think that if the ignition switch was shorting it would feel hot,
smell or you could hear something there.   Wiggle the key some might revel
symptoms. (?)
You should check all the wires plugged into the ignition switch.

Dies when idling - could be related to the above but you need to check the
white/blue wire at the ballast resistor, check the white wire too - also
sometimes the ballast resistor is the problem, it gets hot, sages and shorts
out.   A bad condenser can also cause this problem, it usually gets worse
with time.

Good luck
Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Tigers <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Russ and Tammy C.
via Tigers
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 4:07 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Tigers] wierd in my experience

Group----Electrical problem for sure?????  My tiger backfires when I flip
any switch on the dash.  I think it might be the ignition switch shorting.
It also dies when idling. Anyone have this problem before?  Cause?  You all
have been a great help in the recent past for me  and I am looking forward
to someone being of help now.  Thank you.  Russ
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]

Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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From: Larry Mayfield via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2018 11:33:47 -0700

Well, let's think about it... 

What causes engine backfire?
When the exhaust valve opens, the mixture isn't done burning so it ignites
the unburned fuel in the exhaust system and causes a loud bang. ... As with
backfiring, coughing or spitting can also be caused by a bad ignition
system, such as cross firing, which sends a spark to a cylinder that has the
intake valve open.

If the engine misses during a switch operation, while running, then perhaps
the coil is not getting enough current to charge the coil momentarily.  That
give a moments time to flow a little unburned fuel air into the exhaust
system and then ignite when spark is restored. The white blue wire, running
back to the solenoid to provide full voltage to the coil during starting is
not in play. But the wire that comes from the tach to switch position 2 is
as that is what provide coil charging power when running normally.  What
could drop the voltage enough to fail to charge the coil to sufficient
voltage to fire? The ignition switch is in the run position so that comes
directly from the B post on the voltage regulator, The B post has the
generator to battery charging wire, the main lighting switch and panel light
switch via a connection to the  main light switch.  Looks to me like the
best trouble shooting would be to remove the red wire or power that runs
between the main light switch to the panel light switch. Start the engine
and let it come to temp and then switch on the panel light. If it does not
backfire as it did then the source is somewhere in that panel light system.
The before shutting the engine off try the mail light switch. If it
backfires then, the problem is in the main light circuit somewhere. Next
step, while running is to remove the dimmer switch blue wire. That will take
the dimmer switch and head lights out of the equation. If it still runs when
the lights are turned back on then that means the problem is from the dimmer
switch to the head lights somewhere.   Put the blue wire back on and try the
main light switch again. If it fails then the part of the wiring at fault is
from the dimmer outward, maybe the dimmer has a short internal of a lamp
connection that fails momentarily after powered then opens again. 

Once the area has been isolated then get after the search for failed parts
or connections. 

Hope this helps!

Mayf

_________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile average speed
210.779 mph exit (not top)  speed

-----Original Message-----
From: Tigers [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Russ and
Tammy C. via Tigers
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2018 1:07 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Tigers] wierd in my experience

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From: "Steven L. Finberg via Tigers" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2018 23:56:22 +0000

Hi Ron

My best guess a broken wire inside the insulation or a broken spring inside the ignition SW.

The cars are old enough that the Cu wire could crack creating an open when ever the dash is shaken.
To test wiggle each wire with the engine going.  A cracked wire will feel different at the break and 
probably create the backfire when wiggled.  The clue here is the only coupling from lamp circuits  to the ignition 
is mechanical shock.

Equally likely is a failed spring inside the ignition SW.    The key rotates the cylinder but a spring toggles  the
electrical contacts to hold them closed.   Bang on the dash near the SW to induce this, I think replacement ignition switches are still available. 

Good Luck 

Ron Fraser

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