Subject: Re: [Tigers] One last dash question and then I'll go back to sleep...

From: Ron Fraser via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2016 09:55:23 -0400 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000B_01D21649.C6DECE80"

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Mayf

                I feel your pain about electrical things, I'm the same way,
not a sparky.

Seems to me the Shop Manual is fairly clear about the hook up.

Voltage regulator has a B post for 12v, I post for the instruments and case
ground.

LGG wire goes from I post to, from the back side, the right side instrument
post on both gages

GU wire on the left side of the gage goes to temp sender

GB wire goes to fuel level sender

Hope the pictures help with the heater hoses, also see Shop Manual Section
R, pg. 3, Fig 2.  Finding the 2 "T" parts helps considerably.

Ron Fraser

From: Tigers [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Larry
Mayfield via Tigers
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 7:33 PM
To: Tiger List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Tigers] One last dash question and then I'll go back to sleep...

Ok, when one looks at the, ahem, wiring diagram, contained in the shop
manual or the one on Tigers United, when it becomes rapidly evident that the
places where the wires actually fasten to the instruments is not there. CAT
has a dash wiring diagram which does show the locations they are mostly
evident. But when the temperature gauge and fuel gauges get involved with
the voltage stabilizer things get different.  I have tried all the
combinations that two wires on two instruments can be connected, four total
I think, but still nothing works. Again, I have a farkle, I think, in the
voltage stabilizer, but to eliminate the wiring as culprit to anything,
which wire goes where?  The CAT diagram shows the LGG wires from the Voltage
stabilizer connecting to one post on the temp meter and the opposite post on
the fuel meter.   

So how about one of you smart folk telling me that if you are looking at the
back side of the fuel meter, which post/lug does the LGG colored wire go
onto  and same for the temp meter.   I can figure out where the other wire
goes since there will only be one choice.   Then I can put those into place
so that I can get on with life waiting and trying to decide which
replacement VS to purchase.  Heeellllpppp!

Next question. Will someone who has an unmolested vehicle with all the water
plumbing as OEM take a photo and send it along to me?  I want to reestablish
the full heater and carb heating system that I removed eons ago and forgot.
I did find my two unobtainium T's and I  have my OEM temp sensor to
reinstall, so all I need is hose routing. Not looking to make a points car
shows or anything just need it to be reasonably functional.   Again any help
out there? 

And now for some status. My car is a MK1 series and so it has the metal soft
top hide system.  And before I thought to much about it, I installed seat
belts with a shoulder strap included, using the fender seat beat attachment
points. Ok, well and good, but then the metal center section would not go
far enough down to permit the soft top t\o fold away. So today I corrected
all that. I now have fully functional lap/shoulder seat belts for driver and
passenger AND the metal hide away parts are fully functional now. P side
center panel latch needs to be adjusted but an easy \task. At may steady
pace of 5 steps backwards for every 5.1 steps forward it shouldn't take more
than a month, lol.  As so as it is adjusted I will install the new soft top.

A photo attached. a teaser. but nothing magic about the car. Race car is
hidden away under a pile of blankets and covers. 

mayf

_________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit (not top)  speed

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background=3D"cid:[email-masked]" lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#990066" vlink=3D"#CC6633"><img =
src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" =
v:src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" v:shapes=3D"_x0000_Mail" =
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type=3D"frame" />
</v:background></xml><![endif]--><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>Mayf<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I feel your pain about electrical things, =
I&#8217;m the same way, not a sparky.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>Seems to me the Shop Manual is fairly clear about the hook =
up.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>Voltage regulator has a </span><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:20.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>B</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'> post for 12v, </span><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:20.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>I</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'> post for the instruments and </span><b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowtext'>case =
ground</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>LGG wire goes from </span><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:18.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>I</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'> post to, from the back side, the right side instrument post on both =
gages<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>GU wire on the left side of the gage goes to temp =
sender<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>GB wire goes to fuel level sender<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>Hope the pictures help with the heater hoses, also see Shop Manual =
Section R, pg. 3, Fig 2.&nbsp; Finding the 2 &#8220;T&#8221; parts helps =
considerably.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>Ron Fraser<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:windowte=
xt'> Tigers [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Larry Mayfield via Tigers<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, September 23, 2016 =
7:33 PM<br><b>To:</b> Tiger List =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [Tigers] One last dash =
question and then I'll go back to =
sleep...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Ok, when one =
looks at the, ahem, wiring diagram, contained in the shop manual or the =
one on Tigers United, when it becomes rapidly evident that the places =
where the wires actually fasten to the instruments is not there. CAT has =
a dash wiring diagram which does show the locations they are mostly =
evident. But when the temperature gauge and fuel gauges get involved =
with the voltage stabilizer things get different.&nbsp; I have tried all =
the combinations that two wires on two instruments can be connected, =
four total I think, but still nothing works. Again, I have a farkle, I =
think, in the voltage stabilizer, but to eliminate the wiring as culprit =
to anything, which wire goes where?&nbsp; The CAT diagram shows the LGG =
wires from the Voltage stabilizer connecting to one post on the temp =
meter and the opposite post on the fuel meter. =
&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>So how about one of you smart folk telling me that if =
you are looking at the back side of the fuel meter, which post/lug does =
the LGG colored wire go onto &nbsp;and same for the temp meter.&nbsp; =
&nbsp;I can figure out where the other wire goes since there will only =
be one choice.&nbsp; &nbsp;Then I can put those into place so that I can =
get on with life waiting and trying to decide which replacement VS to =
purchase.&nbsp; Heeellllpppp!<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Next =
question. Will someone who has an unmolested vehicle with all the water =
plumbing as OEM take a photo and send it along to me?&nbsp; I want to =
reestablish the full heater and carb heating system that I removed eons =
ago and forgot. I did find my two unobtainium T&#8217;s and I&nbsp; have =
my OEM temp sensor to reinstall, so all I need is hose routing. Not =
looking to make a points car shows or anything just need it to be =
reasonably functional. &nbsp;&nbsp;Again any help out there? =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>And now for some status&#8230; My car is a MK1 series =
and so it has the metal soft top hide system.&nbsp; And before I thought =
to much about it, I installed seat belts with a shoulder strap included, =
using the fender seat beat attachment points. Ok, well and good, but =
then the metal center section would not go far enough down to permit the =
soft top t\o fold away. So today I corrected all that. I now have fully =
functional lap/shoulder seat belts for driver and passenger AND the =
metal hide away parts are fully functional now. P side center panel =
latch needs to be adjusted but an easy \task. At may steady pace of 5 =
steps backwards for every 5.1 steps forward it shouldn&#8217;t take more =
than a month, lol.&nbsp; As so as it is adjusted I will install the new =
soft top. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>A photo attached&#8230; a teaser&#8230; but nothing =
magic about the car. Race car is hidden away under a pile of blankets =
and covers. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>mayf<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>_____________=
____________<br>drmayf<br>Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.<br>204.913 mph =
flying mile<br>210.779 mph exit (not top)&nbsp; =
speed<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From: Gary Winblad via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2016 08:10:33 -0700

Hi Mayf,

It should not matter which terminal is used on the back of the gauges.  
Just make sure one terminal of each
gauge has a wire that goes to the regulator (LGG?).  WHAT ARE THE 
SYMPTOMS YOU ARE SEEING NOW?

I have my stock restored 2bbl  MKI that I can give you pictures but not 
till later today or tomorrow if you don't
get some by then.
Hang in there, we can help...
Gary
On 9/23/2016 4:32 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers wrote:
> manual or the one on Tigers United, when it becomes rapidly evident 
> that the places where the wires actually fasten to the instruments is 
> not there. CAT has a dash wiring diagram which does show the locations 
> they are mostly evident. But when the temperature gauge and fuel 
> gauges get involved with the voltage stabilizer things get different.  
> I have tried all the combinations that two wires on two instruments 
> can be connected, four total I think, but still nothing works. Again, 
> I have a farkle, I think, in the voltage stabilizer, but to eliminate 
> the wiring as culprit to anything, which wire goes where?  The CAT 
> diagram shows the LGG wires from the Voltage stabilizer connecting to 
> one post on the temp meter and the opposite post on the fuel meter.
>
> So how about one of you smart folk telling me that if you are looking 
> at the back side of the fuel meter, which post/lug does the LGG 
> colored wire go onto  and same for the temp meter.   I can figure out 
> where the other wire goes since there will only be one choice.   Then 
> I can put those into place so that I can get on with life waiting and 
> trying to decide which replacement VS to purchase.  Heeellllpppp!
>
> Next question. Will someone who has an unmolested vehicle with all the 
> water plumbing as OEM take a photo and send it along to me?  I want to 
> reestablish the full heater and carb heating system that I removed 
> eons ago and forgot. I did find my two unobtainium T’s and I  have my 
> OEM temp sensor to reinstall, so all I need is hose routing. Not 
> looking to make a points car shows or anything just need it to be 
> reasonably functional.   Again any help out there?
>
> And now for some status… My car is a MK1 series and so it has the 
> metal soft top hide system.  And before I thought to much about it, I 
> installed seat belts with a shoulder strap included, using the fender 
> seat beat attachment points. Ok, well and good, but then the metal 
> center section would not go far enough down to permit the soft top t\o 
> fold away. So today I corrected all that. I now have fully functional 
> lap/shoulder seat belts for driver and passenger AND the metal hide 
> away parts are fully functional now. P side center panel latch needs 
> to be adjusted but an easy \task. At may steady pace of 5 steps 
> backwards for every 5.1 steps forward it shouldn’t take more than a 
> month, lol. As so as it is adjusted I will install the new soft top.
>
> A photo attached… a teaser… but nothing magic about the car. Race car 
> is hidden away under a pile of blankets and covers.
>
> mayf
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]
>
>

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