Subject: Re: [Tigers] Axle removal process.

From: Tom Witt via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 07:48:12 -0700

Cullen,
  You won't find this in the Shop Notes, or likely recommended by anyone. 
But, given the rust issues your hubs MAY be as "frozen" as mine were.  First 
I tried every hub puller I had access to and nearly pulled the car off the 
jackstands. So, I removed the axle/hub/backing plate as one piece. Even 
there the bearings were SO tight in the housing that I AGAIN nearly knocked 
the car off the jackstands removing them. Eventually they did release by 
fashioning a slide hammer that used two 10 pound weights (20 pounds total) 
and slamming them into a stop with a 3 foot run. It took about ten of these 
whacks to get the bearing/axle out of the housing.

I then took a steel wheel and bolted it to the axle. I suspended the wheel 
between two tightly spaced sawhorses, reversed the nut and backed it off to 
the edge of the threads, and place a sacrificial steel plate over the nut. 
After applying penetrating oil and heat it took about 15-20 full force 
overhead swinging whacks from a 10 pound sledge hammer before the hub 
FINALLY released from the axle. The threads on the end on one axle weren't 
too pretty and I can't account for the wheel being straight, but 
surprisingly the sawhorses held up.  One day at Salisbury their had to have 
a contest to force mis-matched tolerance parts together and that was the 
rear end that went into my car.  I say this just in case you get desperate 
but are persistent.

Ideally you have a puller that tightens to the hub at all four points and 
then and a center bolt that presses against the axle.  Some people here have 
made their own.  But, as I have mentioned getting the hub off the axle AND 
the axle/bear out of the housing are two different processes that offer 
restraint - often of a near overwhelming magnitude. 15 years ago when I 
posted this many people thought I was exaggerating. Well, I've done this 
before on other cars and NEVER had the near the difficulties I had with the 
Tiger's rear end.  My hope for you is regardless of the rust that things go 
easier for you. Lastly be careful not to damage the steel shims associated 
with the retainer. Mark them as to what side they came off also as they set 
the axle end play.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cullen McCann via Tigers
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2015 6:46 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Tigers] Axle removal process.

Dearest technical support community of ever present knowledge and wisdom,

I am desperate. I left my binder of shop notes at, well, my other
shop. It would probably contain my answer, but they are out of reach
at the moment. Before I tell you how far I have gotten unsuccessfully,
and to what level of drama, I will beg for advice.

Can somebody please outline the basic steps of removing the stock
axles and differential from with in a factory Tiger rear end housing?
I have never done it on a Tiger. Ultimately all I want to do is get
the posi unit and gears out. Here is what I understand:

The axles have to come out first. To get the axles out, the hubs have
to come off, correct? I am familiar with the exploded diagrams showing
the basic components of the Tiger axle shafts and hub assembly. The
axle shaft is a tapered end and the hub is pressed-on, so after the
retaining nut and washer is removed, removing the hub with a hub
puller tool that applies force by pulling outward on the hub, and
pushing inward on the end-dimple of the axle centerline should draw
the hub off correct? Can the proposed hub puller tool anchor to the
lug studs?

This rear end came out of MK1a that had rust issues. But has a nice
posi unit and set of 3.31's. I really want it out...

please be gentle and thank you for your help.

Cullen
Alpine 260 '1452
Yukon

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From: Cullen McCann via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 19:58:16 -0500

*** update***

SUCCESS!  Thank you Tom Witt for the detailed description and Duke Samouce for graphics and offers to help. I would up approaching it like Tom described and it worked exactly as he said. 

I sold the rear end (not the one in my car, this one came out of an old parts car) and I just wanted to keep the gears and diff. So I really am not concerned at this moment of putting it back together. Well, I cobbled together a nasty slide hammer out of pieces of structural steel pipe and welded it to an old steel wheel. 3 hard slides along a 3 foot pipe and those axles popped right out.  Built a quick case spreader out of angle iron and all thread and the diff came right out. 

Thanks everyone!!
Cullen
Alp260 1452
Yukon ok. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2015, at 9:48 AM, Tom Witt via Tigers <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Cullen,
> You won't find this in the Shop Notes, or likely recommended by anyone. But, given the rust issues your hubs MAY be as "frozen" as mine were.  First I tried every hub puller I had access to and nearly pulled the car off the jackstands. So, I removed the axle/hub/backing plate as one piece. Even there the bearings were SO tight in the housing that I AGAIN nearly knocked the car off the jackstands removing them. Eventually they did release by fashioning a slide hammer that used two 10 pound weights (20 pounds total) and slamming them into a stop with a 3 foot run. It took about ten of these whacks to get the bearing/axle out of the housing.
> 
> I then took a steel wheel and bolted it to the axle. I suspended the wheel between two tightly spaced sawhorses, reversed the nut and backed it off to the edge of the threads, and place a sacrificial steel plate over the nut. After applying penetrating oil and heat it took about 15-20 full force overhead swinging whacks from a 10 pound sledge hammer before the hub FINALLY released from the axle. The threads on the end on one axle weren't too pretty and I can't account for the wheel being straight, but surprisingly the sawhorses held up.  One day at Salisbury their had to have a contest to force mis-matched tolerance parts together and that was the rear end that went into my car.  I say this just in case you get desperate but are persistent.
> 
> Ideally you have a puller that tightens to the hub at all four points and then and a center bolt that presses against the axle.  Some people here have made their own.  But, as I have mentioned getting the hub off the axle AND the axle/bear out of the housing are two different processes that offer restraint - often of a near overwhelming magnitude. 15 years ago when I posted this many people thought I was exaggerating. Well, I've done this before on other cars and NEVER had the near the difficulties I had with the Tiger's rear end.  My hope for you is regardless of the rust that things go easier for you. Lastly be careful not to damage the steel shims associated with the retainer. Mark them as to what side they came off also as they set the axle end play.
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Cullen McCann via Tigers
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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From: Tom Witt via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 19:46:07 -0700 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0146_01D07A10.50223970"

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Cullen,
  Glad to here you got it apart.  Didn't know you were after the 
differential primarily. I also made a case spreader as per the picture. The 
threading spreader is a coil spring compressor held on point with a tube of 
electrical conduit.  Also, my axle puller. Eventually I added more weight 
(and wished I had 4 points of contact).  Is that really me? Fifteen years 
later I've turned into a gray haired old man!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cullen McCann
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2015 5:58 PM
To: Tom Witt
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Axle removal process.

*** update***

SUCCESS!  Thank you Tom Witt for the detailed description and Duke Samouce 
for graphics and offers to help. I would up approaching it like Tom 
described and it worked exactly as he said.

I sold the rear end (not the one in my car, this one came out of an old 
parts car) and I just wanted to keep the gears and diff. So I really am not 
concerned at this moment of putting it back together. Well, I cobbled 
together a nasty slide hammer out of pieces of structural steel pipe and 
welded it to an old steel wheel. 3 hard slides along a 3 foot pipe and those 
axles popped right out.  Built a quick case spreader out of angle iron and 
all thread and the diff came right out.

Thanks everyone!!
Cullen
Alp260 1452
Yukon ok.

Sent from my iPhone

> But, given the rust issues your hubs MAY be as "frozen" as mine were. 
> First I tried every hub puller I had access to and nearly pulled the car 
> off the jackstands. So, I removed the axle/hub/backing plate as one piece. 
> Even there the bearings were SO tight in the housing that I AGAIN nearly 
> knocked the car off the jackstands removing them. Eventually they did 
> release by fashioning a slide hammer that used two 10 pound weights (20 
> pounds total) and slamming them into a stop with a 3 foot run. It took 
> about ten of these whacks to get the bearing/axle out of the housing.
>
> between two tightly spaced sawhorses, reversed the nut and backed it off 
> to the edge of the threads, and place a sacrificial steel plate over the 
> nut. After applying penetrating oil and heat it took about 15-20 full 
> force overhead swinging whacks from a 10 pound sledge hammer before the 
> hub FINALLY released from the axle. The threads on the end on one axle 
> weren't too pretty and I can't account for the wheel being straight, but 
> surprisingly the sawhorses held up.  One day at Salisbury their had to 
> have a contest to force mis-matched tolerance parts together and that was 
> the rear end that went into my car.  I say this just in case you get 
> desperate but are persistent.
>
> then and a center bolt that presses against the axle.  Some people here 
> have made their own.  But, as I have mentioned getting the hub off the 
> axle AND the axle/bear out of the housing are two different processes that 
> offer restraint - often of a near overwhelming magnitude. 15 years ago 
> when I posted this many people thought I was exaggerating. Well, I've done 
> this before on other cars and NEVER had the near the difficulties I had 
> with the Tiger's rear end.  My hope for you is regardless of the rust that 
> things go easier for you. Lastly be careful not to damage the steel shims 
> associated with the retainer. Mark them as to what side they came off also 
> as they set the axle end play.
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]
>
>

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