Subject: Re: [Tigers] Valve Cover Removal

From: "Dave Munroe" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 14:21:12 -0300

Hi Brad :

Condolences.

I have the similar alloy valve covers that have Tiger on them.

I had an exhaust manifold bolt spit out on the driver's side, (you are lucky 
your leak is on the pass. side!) and the gasket damaged on a trip, and 
couldn't get at it until I returned home to my garage and the myriad of 
special tools I have made up to get at the spark plugs on the driver's side. 
Everything on that side had to be removed to get at the ex. manifold, 
including the valve cover.

I had to remove the valve cover to remove the ex. manifold gasket, as the 
cover hangs out over the edge of the cyl. head, and wouldn't allow the 
gasket to pass by.

That rear allen head bolt was a bugger. I got it out with a 1/4" drive allen 
key with a couple of short extensions and two universal joints.  Ron's tip 
to blow out the hole is a good one. I was fortunate that I had installed the 
covers with ARP allen bolts, as they have a deep socket hole, into which I 
stuck some aluminum foil to make the key a tight fit, so it wouldn't drop 
off the key when it cleared the hole.

Getting the cover off was another problem, but with some patience and finely 
honed Chinese puzzle skills, it  can be removed. Just keep at it and try not 
to scratch that cool cover too much!

Also, a good trick with Small block Ford valve cover gaskets is not to 
tighten up the cover bolts too much. Barely finger tight and a bit is 
enough. The steel covers distort easily and rise up almost out of contact 
between the bolts. The alloy ones crack very easily. It's amazing how well 
they seal with very little pressure.

Good luck with this Brad, and happy knuckle whacking!

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "hallmotors" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 12:46 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Valve Cover Removal

>I have an oil leak from the passenger bank valve cover onto the exhaust
> manifold (toward the back, say above about at the #3 or #4 cylinder
> location) and thus need to remove the valve cover to install a new gasket.
> My Tiger has the original 260 engine with LAT-8 Aluminum finned Tiger
> Powered by Ford valve covers attached with allen head bolts.  I've looked 
> at
> what I could find in the archives on removing the valve covers but am 
> still
> looking for advice.  I basically have three questions, 1) can this style
> valve cover be removed without dropping the engine, 2) I'm having problems
> getting an allen wrench on the top back valve cover bolt and it appears
> there's no firewall access hole for the passenger bank; any advice here, 
> and
> 3) once the bolts are out, any advice on how to get the valve cover up, 
> over
> and off.
>
>
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Brad Hall
>
> Wichita, KS
>
> LRXFE609
> _______________________________________________
>
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From: Tom Parker <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 13:47:10 -0400

I put SS "Cobra" valve covers on my Mark 2 with allen screws. I have to
lower the rear of the engine (remove the frame bolts from  the transmission
rear mount, with a jack under the mount and lower slowly...). The cover
fins aren't relieved in the rear like the Tiger covers so I have to tap the
engine 'round with the starter 'till the #8 rocker arms are low to get the
cover off. (The right side head is further forward; that shouldn't be a
problem on the right side of the car.)

I don't recall a problem with the allen screws.

Tom
'67 Mark 2

On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Dave Munroe <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I had an exhaust manifold bolt spit out on the driver's side, (you are
> lucky your leak is on the pass. side!) and the gasket damaged on a trip,
> and couldn't get at it until I returned home to my garage and the myriad of
> special tools I have made up to get at the spark plugs on the driver's
> side. Everything on that side had to be removed to get at the ex. manifold,
> That rear allen head bolt was a bugger. I got it out with a 1/4" drive
> allen key with a couple of short extensions and two universal joints.
> Ron's tip to blow out the hole is a good one. I was fortunate that I had
> installed the covers with ARP allen bolts, as they have a deep socket hole,
> into which I stuck some aluminum foil to make the key a tight fit, so it
> wouldn't drop off the key when it cleared the hole.
>
> Getting the cover off was another problem, but with some patience and
> finely honed Chinese puzzle skills, it  can be removed. Just keep at it and
> try not to scratch that cool cover too much!
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "hallmotors" <[email-masked]>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@
> gmail.com

[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 19:28:34 +0000 (UTC)

As I remember it, I made up a special tool string. 

I actually cut off a straight piece of an allen wrench (the separate 90 degree bend type) and used it in combination with 1/4 inch drive swivel socket. The straight piece of allen wrench key stock enabled me to turn the allen head screw/bolt with the swivel socket and a ratchet wrench without firewall interference. Really did not have enough clearance for a hex drive allen socket and universal joints between the back of the valve cover and the firewall on my car. 

Hopefully you do not have roller rockers, otherwise you will need to lower the engine to get enough clearance to the cover over the rocker arm fixing nuts. 

Good luck! 

Gene 

----- Original Message -----

From: "hallmotors" <[email-masked]> 
To: [email-masked] 
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 10:46:37 AM 
Subject: [Tigers] Valve Cover Removal 

I have an oil leak from the passenger bank valve cover onto the exhaust 
manifold (toward the back, say above about at the #3 or #4 cylinder 
location) and thus need to remove the valve cover to install a new gasket. 
My Tiger has the original 260 engine with LAT-8 Aluminum finned Tiger 
Powered by Ford valve covers attached with allen head bolts. I've looked at 
what I could find in the archives on removing the valve covers but am still 
looking for advice. I basically have three questions, 1) can this style 
valve cover be removed without dropping the engine, 2) I'm having problems 
getting an allen wrench on the top back valve cover bolt and it appears 
there's no firewall access hole for the passenger bank; any advice here, and 
3) once the bolts are out, any advice on how to get the valve cover up, over 
and off. 

Thanks guys, 

Brad Hall 

Wichita, KS 

LRXFE609 

[email-masked] 

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---

From: Cars <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 14:44:28 -0600

The best trick I learned is where to use Allen heads and where to use standard
bolts. Long lesson,  I'm still learning. However I do know that valve covers
should not have allens in the back bolts

Just some words of wisdom from a slow learner

Lynn

Sent from my mobile device

> On Nov 1, 2014, at 11:21 AM, Dave Munroe <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Hi Brad :
>
> Condolences.
>
> I had to remove the valve cover to remove the ex. manifold gasket, as the
cover hangs out over the edge of the cyl. head, and wouldn't allow the gasket
to pass by.
> That rear allen head bolt was a bugger. I got it out with a 1/4" drive allen
key with a couple of short extensions and two universal joints.  Ron's tip to
blow out the hole is a good one. I was fortunate that I had installed the
covers with ARP allen bolts, as they have a deep socket hole, into which I
stuck some aluminum foil to make the key a tight fit, so it wouldn't drop off
the key when it cleared the hole.
> Also, a good trick with Small block Ford valve cover gaskets is not to
tighten up the cover bolts too much. Barely finger tight and a bit is enough.
The steel covers distort easily and rise up almost out of contact between the
bolts. The alloy ones crack very easily. It's amazing how well they seal with
very little pressure.
at
still
and
over
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Cars <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 14:45:05 -0600

Also. Roller rockers make it a little tougher to get the covers off

at
still
and
over

[email-masked]

---

From: "Kirk Smith" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2014 01:10:22 -0700

Confession- I leave that bolt out and haven't had any leaks on my valve
covers...Kirk

-----Original Message-----
From: Tigers [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Cars
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 1:45 PM
To: Dave Munroe
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Valve Cover Removal

> lucky
> allen
> finely
tighten up the cover bolts too much. Barely finger tight and a bit is
enough.
The steel covers distort easily and rise up almost out of contact between
the bolts. The alloy ones crack very easily. It's amazing how well they seal
with very little pressure.
>> I have an oil leak from the passenger bank valve cover onto the 
>> exhaust manifold (toward the back, say above about at the #3 or #4 
>> cylinder
at
still
>> looking for advice.  I basically have three questions, 1) can this 
>> style valve cover be removed without dropping the engine, 2) I'm 
>> having problems getting an allen wrench on the top back valve cover 
>> bolt and it appears there's no firewall access hole for the passenger 
>> bank; any advice here,
and
over
>> Unsubscribe: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]
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