Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dash Pad Install

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 15:51:43 -0500

Great plan. PRACTICE before using the glue.

Michael Shortt
On Nov 13, 2013 3:39 PM, "Larry Mayfield" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Ok, so I have my old dash pad off, in a zillion pieces, cracked all over
> the place. I see from both the metal onder it and frm th epieced togethr
> old pad, tht it was glued down around the outer edge about an  1 1/2
>  inchesd wide from one end to the other. And around the vent openings.
> Contact cement of some sort was used but sparingly.  Also under the dash
> behind the front metal facia, it was glued down.  I seem to remember that
> there was a short discussion on gluing the pad down.   I am going to put
> the new pad on like the old one was on.
>
> The questions I have is one of technique and procedure.   I head that one
> put contact cement on the two parts and let it set up. Then put down wax
> paper on the bottom, then some short sections of dowels (size, length) and
> then maybe some more wax paper over the dowels to keep the upper pad from
> gluing itself to the dowels.   Then place the dash pad into close proximity
> to the final location and get it aligned to some tape marks I have made.
>  While my helper is pushing the pad forward into alignment, I will pull the
> dowels from the center most locations and when in alignment, press the
> pieces together. I will do that working from the center to the outer ends.
> When that is finished, I will put contact cement on the tuck under pieces
> that go up and over the top of the dash and then when that glue is ready
> tuck all those pieces into place.  I will probably do those working from
> the center outward also.
>
> If any of that sounds goofy, just consider who is making the plan, lol. I
> would dearly love to hear from any and all who have actually done this
> little chore and what pitfalls I am about to encounter. If you have done
> this before and are not to ashamed of your work, please, please tell me how
> you did it?  What contact cement did you use?  A detailed step by step
> procedure? Heck is there one on the TU web site?   I'll look...  I want to
> do this tomorrow or the next day.. I still have some minor trimming to do.
>
> Many thanks, in advance!!!
>
> larry
>
> --
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 21:58:06 +0000

One question, does this dash pad need to hold up to LSR speeds? :>)

There are several grades of contact adhesive, 3M has a high strength 90 for
marine applications, the 74 and 77 for trim and headliners, the 80 is for
vinyl and rubber,  and a few more for special applications.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Tap
e-and-3M-Adhesives/Non-Structural-Adhesives/Spray-Adhesives?N=5396314&rt=c3

I have used the 77 for headliners and foam insulation-to-firewall with great
success. The no-name spray stuff at Autozone is crap.

If you can work with the brush-on liquid, try the 3M Fastbond, I used it on
all the upholstery work and it holds well.

Have fun and try not to glue your fingers together like I've done!

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 3:37 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Tigers] Dash Pad Install

Ok, so I have my old dash pad off, in a zillion pieces, cracked all over the
place. I see from both the metal onder it and frm th epieced togethr old pad,
tht it was glued down around the outer edge about an  1 1/2
inchesd wide from one end to the other. And around the vent openings.
Contact cement of some sort was used but sparingly.  Also under the dash
behind the front metal facia, it was glued down.  I seem to remember
that there was a short discussion on gluing the pad down.   I am going
to put the new pad on like the old one was on.

The questions I have is one of technique and procedure.   I head that
one put contact cement on the two parts and let it set up. Then put down wax
paper on the bottom, then some short sections of dowels (size,
length) and then maybe some more wax paper over the dowels to keep the
upper pad from gluing itself to the dowels.   Then place the dash pad
into close proximity to the final location and get it aligned to some tape
marks I have made.  While my helper is pushing the pad forward into alignment,
I will pull the dowels from the center most locations and when in alignment,
press the pieces together. I will do that working from the center to the outer
ends. When that is finished, I will put contact cement on the tuck under
pieces that go up and over the top of the dash and then when that glue is
ready tuck all those pieces into place.  I will probably do those working from
the center outward also.

If any of that sounds goofy, just consider who is making the plan, lol.
I would dearly love to hear from any and all who have actually done this
little chore and what pitfalls I am about to encounter. If you have done this
before and are not to ashamed of your work, please, please tell me how you did
it?  What contact cement did you use?  A detailed step by
step procedure? Heck is there one on the TU web site?   I'll look...  I
want to do this tomorrow or the next day.. I still have some minor trimming to
do.

larry

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---

From: michael king <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 09:13:24 +1100

Larry,

Do you have a new repro one from SS? From what i understand from many posts
on the forums and even the list they require some trimming and sanding.
Apparently the foam under the leading edge of the windscreen can be a
little thick and needs sanding to sit correctly and also the foam at the
edges of where the dash rolls over... so to a test fit dry.

-- 
Regards

Michael King

[email-masked]

---

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 17:15:32 -0500

Wear latex gloves.
And do it in a well ventilated area.

Michael
On Nov 13, 2013 5:09 PM, "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> the
> this
> Unsubscribe:
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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---

From: "denis mercier" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 17:45:50 -0500

Hi Larry.
When i install new dash pad on my Tiger i never used wax paper. I used 
contact cement (LEPAGE( brand on bolth face to glue and i don't had problem. 
I used
the same contact cement to restore the interior without any problem. I don't 
know if (LEPAGE( is available in US but use a good contact cement, some 
contact   glue are cheaper but don't work well.
If you are like me and like original cars or want to use the tonneau cover, 
you have to reinstall tonneau stud. To do this before to install the dash 
pad drill each hole
tonneau stud from top to down, the drill must be smaller than the studs 
hole, take care to don't broken the stud thread, there is a second thickness 
of sheet metal under the top sheet metal where you glue the dash pad. After 
the holes drilled install the dash pad at the right place(WITHOUT( glue and 
drill the stud holes
by under the the dash to top, the stud holes gone be at the right place !
Denis Mercier
Canada.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Mayfield" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 3:36 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Dash Pad Install

> gluing itself to the dowels.   Then place the dash pad into close 
> proximity to the final location and get it aligned to some tape marks I 
> have made.  While my helper is pushing the pad forward into alignment, I 
> will pull the dowels from the center most locations and when in alignment, 
> press the pieces together. I will do that working from the center to the 
> outer ends. When that is finished, I will put contact cement on the tuck 
> under pieces that go up and over the top of the dash and then when that 
> glue is ready tuck all those pieces into place.  I will probably do those 
> working from the center outward also.
>
> this before and are not to ashamed of your work, please, please tell me 
> how you did it?  What contact cement did you use?  A detailed step by step 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: "Scattt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 20:13:53 -0500

I second the idea to drill your stud holes. You can then use a Ice Pick from 
below to locate the stud locations without messing up your pad after you 
glue it down.
Nick
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Cc: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dash Pad Install

>> proximity
>> how
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Tom Hall <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 01:27:36 -0800

On 11/13/2013 12:36 PM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
> Ok, so I have my old dash pad off, in a zillion pieces, cracked all 
> over the place. I see from both the metal onder it and frm th epieced 
> togethr old pad, tht it was glued down around the outer edge about an  
> 1 1/2  inchesd wide from one end to the other. And around the vent 
> openings.   Contact cement of some sort was used but sparingly.  Also 
> under the dash behind the front metal facia, it was glued down.  I 
> seem to remember that there was a short discussion on gluing the pad 
> down.   I am going to put the new pad on like the old one was on.
Doc,

Denis beat me with his response about drilling the four holes down where 
the toneau studs used to be.  If you use a small drill (~#50) you can 
use a sharpened welding rod to push up from the bottom and puncture and 
accurately locate the holes that the new studs can be screwed into, 
after the pad is glued in place.  Before you get to that, you could also 
drill the top sheet for riv-nuts and then use threaded studs in place of 
the OEM sheetmetal style.  They come with longer studs and this makes 
them more permanent (as if 50 years wasn't permanent enough).  I'd also 
advise using small diameter stainless flat washers between the bottom of 
the studs and the vinyl cover. They spread the depression at the studs 
and reduce the tendency to crack the vinyl when tightening the studs.  
The riv-nuts also hold these threaded studs in better alignment, and you 
don't have to tighten them as much.

Centering the pad is typically done to split the material on either end 
at the windshield/seal mounting fins.  You can "adjust" the vent holes 
and their mounting screw holes, and the center windshield hole with an 
Exact-o knife after the pad is placed.  As delivered, you may find 
excess foam in the area that will be under the windshield frame.  You'll 
want to remove this or you will be fighting it when you replace your 
windshield frame and seal.  You will also need a decent heat gun to warm 
the vinyl at the ends and to wrap and bend it under the lip of the dash 
sheetmetal.  I hope your dashboard is either removed or is at least 
dropped from it's normal location.  If not, you'll be fighting with it 
to wrap and "place" the vinyl under the lip.  I spend a lot of time 
"preparing" the dash-pad in a dry configuration, before gluing it down.  
It should pretty much drop into it's final location before your ready to 
glue it down.  That's really the easy part.

-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net

[email-masked]

---

From: Tony Lang <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 02:01:12 -0800 (PST)

Just getting back on line, so at the end of this subject.Not sure if it has
been mentioned but there is a method of using needles or stick pins to mark
the tonneau cover post and the screw holes for the defroster vents----the
vents may not be a problem but in the past many have forgotten the studs and
used them to hold down the two outside defrost vents while they are actually
in a place designed to each side and indivisual of the vents. Hope this is of
help and understandable for 4 a.m.
 
Tony Lang (TtT)

On Thursday, November
14, 2013 3:28 AM, Tom Hall <[email-masked]> wrote:
 
On 11/13/2013 12:36
PM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
> seem
to remember that there was a short discussion on gluing the pad 
> down.   I
am going to put the new pad on like the old one was on.
Doc,

Denis beat me
with his response about drilling the four holes down where 
the toneau studs
used to be.  If you use a small drill (~#50) you can 
use a sharpened welding
rod to push up from the bottom and puncture and 
accurately locate the holes
that the new studs can be screwed into, 
after the pad is glued in place. 
Before you get to that, you could also 
drill the top sheet for riv-nuts and
then use threaded studs in place of 
the OEM sheetmetal style.  They come with
longer studs and this makes 
them more permanent (as if 50 years wasn't
permanent enough).  I'd also 
advise using small diameter stainless flat
washers between the bottom of 
the studs and the vinyl cover. They spread the
depression at the studs 
and reduce the tendency to crack the vinyl when
tightening the studs.  
The riv-nuts also hold these threaded studs in better
alignment, and you 
don't have to tighten them as much.

Centering the pad is
typically done to split the material on either end 
at the windshield/seal
mounting fins.  You can "adjust" the vent holes 
and their mounting screw
holes, and the center windshield hole with an 
Exact-o knife after the pad is
placed.  As delivered, you may find 
excess foam in the area that will be
under the windshield frame.  You'll 
want to remove this or you will be
fighting it when you replace your 
windshield frame and seal.  You will also
need a decent heat gun to warm 
the vinyl at the ends and to wrap and bend it
under the lip of the dash 
sheetmetal.  I hope your dashboard is either
removed or is at least 
dropped from it's normal location.  If not, you'll be
fighting with it 
to wrap and "place" the vinyl under the lip.  I spend a lot
of time 
"preparing" the dash-pad in a dry configuration, before gluing it
down.  
It should pretty much drop into it's final location before your ready
to 
glue it down.  That's really the easy part.

-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger
Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net

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