Subject: Re: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock

From: "Teepen, Jere" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 12:36:26 -0400

Based on the response from the list I would guess we don't know the answer to
that question.  Good Luck.

Jere

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:56 PM
To: [email-masked] Den
Subject: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock

While I'm on the subject, I thought I'd mention what the tech guy at Edlebrock
told me.  I determined that the narrow band air/gas meter on my car is an
Edlebrock.  I called them to ask about how well it worked, and how to best
read it. I told him that it reads mostly with all 4 green lights on, sometimes
flickering the first of two yellow lights.  That means it is running on the
rich side at 13:1+.  He said that it would be better if I was only lighting
two of the green lights.  He suggested that rather than first trying to change
jets in the carb, I try advancing the timing by 2 degrees.

That sure sounded odd to me.  Sure, perhaps timing could lean the car a
little.  But, if I'm already at max advance based upon the risk of pinging,
which he would have no idea, doesn't that create greater issues to push the
advance up?
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From: "Smit, Theo" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 16:43:36 +0000

Hi Jay,
If you're reading rich, then you're using up all the available oxygen by the
time the fuel/air charge hits the O2 sensor, and there is in fact some unburnt
fuel left. I can't see how getting the combustion going earlier would help
that.

Earlier combustion would give you lower exhaust temperatures, but I'm not sure
how that would help your O2 readings either.

I'm using a PLX wideband O2 sensor... you get much more direct information
than what the earlier narrowband O2 sensors will give you, and they're not
that expensive anymore. I have my gauge stuck where the ammeter usually goes
so it's easily readable, with some silver tape wrapped around the bezel to
dress it up ;)

Theo

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From: Larry Mayfield <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 12:02:28 -0700

Well, I would want a bit more info before I waded deep into this. 
However, did the tech know you were dealing with a non EFI system?  If 
so then on to the next item. Don't want to advance the dizzy because 
*you think there is a risk it will ping*?  This is not a terribly 
complicated issue, changing the spark advance. Pull the vac hose to the 
dizzy, plug the hose so it does not leak air into the manifold or carb 
and change the timing by a couple of degrees.  Mark where it was first. 
Put vacuum hose on and give it a ride to see how the AFR is doing.  If 
unsuccessful, put it back.   I think I would look for a vacuum leak 
somewhere although running rich (and that isn't really rich at all, bet 
power is at approximately 12.5:1),  would seem to indicate that not much 
of an air leak.  I seem to remember that the power valve was not removed 
during the float and jet change operations.  Why not?  They have a 
diaphragm and spring that permits them to open at some preset manifold 
vacuum level to add to the main jet flow.  If there was one in the 
repair kit, might want to change to that new one.   And if the 
secondaries, vacuum or mechanical?, are open a tad then that might cause 
a high idle which someone might correct with the primary  idle air 
screws or the throttle setting screw.    And if the floats are set too 
high wont that permit more fuel to enter the bowls and cause some over 
flow making it richer also?

I think your main jets are a bit too big...

It has been a long long time since I fiddled with a carb however....

mayf

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drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 6/20/2013 9:36 AM, Teepen, Jere wrote:
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