Subject: [Tigers] dry ice blasting

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 10:19:18 -0500 (EST)

Hello,
 
When I bought my Tiger in 1976, I didn't realize how rusty it was under  
that brand new coat of paint.
in 1979, the rocker bubbled and I tapped the area with my finger. Right  
through...
So, all around the car fresh metal. Cost nearly as much as the car. Another 
 complete paint job and rust removal after being hit in the rear in  2000
 
The trunk floor had been painted (when I bought the car) with a tarry  
substance to cover the surface rust there. Over the years, I've thought about  
haw to tackle the trunk and bring it up to the standard of the rest of the 
car.  Recently, I committed to an attack. In the last month I tried  chemicals 
(paint thinner, lacquer thinner, then acetone) and just made  a mess. Then 
tried a stiff putty knife in a cold garage and got  down to rust and 
original paint. But, this approach would take forever and leave  the paint, rust  
and traces of the tarry stuff. I thought about media  blasting but the 
resultant "stuff'" would be there for ages. And get painted  in.
 
This weekend I stumbled on a new (to me) system of blasting: Dry Ice  
blasting. This would make the now dried-out tarry stuff very brittle and take  
the trunk area down nicely. And no residual media (Black Beauty, glass beads,  
and the like) to worry about.
 
Anybody done this? Any comments?
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 11:16:08 -0500 (EST)

When I worked in a margarine plant we used a frozen carbon dioxide  system; 
a high pressure pump blasted the equipment to be cleaned. All  the 35 years 
of paint came off without affecting the metal parts of the  machines. It 
would, however, destroy any plastic parts or other materials such  as 
insulation.
 
Fred Baum
9470768
382002353

In a message dated 2/17/2013 10:25:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

Hello,

So, all around the car fresh metal. Cost nearly as much as  the car. 
Another 

The trunk floor had been painted (when I bought  the car) with a tarry  
substance to cover the surface rust there.  Over the years, I've thought 
about  
haw to tackle the trunk and bring  it up to the standard of the rest of the 
car.  Recently, I committed  to an attack. In the last month I tried  
chemicals 
(paint thinner,  lacquer thinner, then acetone) and just made  a mess. Then 
tried a  stiff putty knife in a cold garage and got  down to rust and 
original  paint. But, this approach would take forever and leave  the 
paint,  rust  
and traces of the tarry stuff. I thought about media   blasting but the 
resultant "stuff'" would be there for ages. And get  painted  in.

This weekend I stumbled on a new (to me) system of  blasting: Dry Ice  
blasting. This would make the now dried-out tarry  stuff very brittle and 
take  
the trunk area down nicely. And no  residual media (Black Beauty, glass 
beads,  
and the like) to worry  about.

Jim   Armstrong
Mk 1A  
382002083
LRXFE

[email-masked]

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Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]
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From: Jody Kerr <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 09:23:21 -0700

I wonder how well that would work for stripping off thick undercoating?

On Sun, Feb 17, 2013 at 9:16 AM,  <[email-masked]> wrote:
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1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 13:15:23 -0500 (EST)

Hello,
 
If it can get it cold enough, the 350 psi blast pressure and the CO2  
pellets should make short work of it.
They haul these rigs out to sites like where graffiti people "Tag"  
buildings. This is just one of their uses and work/money streams. So going to a  
car otherwise immobilized shouldn't be a problem.
 
Jim Armstrong

In a message dated 2/17/2013 11:23:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

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