Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Small project report

From: Rick Fisk via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2024 17:24:14 -0400

Very interesting Daniel and your work looks great.  Why not cut a hole on each side?  Is your new radiator a cross flow or downflow?

I've been driving Fr Jack's Midget a little and am trying to locate a horrific rattle that occurs at all speeds and seems to be the steering column.  Fuel pump keeps dying on me too and needs to be replaced.  Another thing I haven't sorted yet is the fuel cap.  One of the previous owners replaced the fuel tank and the tank does not have a vent line like the original tank.  That means you have to leave the fuel fill cap so loose it almost falls off to keep the engine running.  If you tighten it down the car runs OK for a quarter mile and then dies.  If you loosen the cap you get a big Whoosh of air and then the car will run again.  

Rick

> On Sep 20, 2024, at 1:13 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi list,
> 
> A small project report with some background history.  A few years back I fitted a small airflow blanking device just inside the grille, on one side, of my 69 Sprite and found it didn't make much difference to engine running temperatures.  When tested in the full scale wind tunnel it was proven to reduce drag and lift.
> 
> At the test everyone asked me why I didn't have one on the other side and I explained I hadn't checked if further airflow reductions would increase engine temperatures.  At a later date I made one and fitted it anyway.
> 
> In more recent times the Sprite engine temps ran hotter than I would have liked and eventually I changed the radiator after some trouble in finding something I thought appropriate. Well I don't think it worked as well as the previous radiator and recently I finally found a company that would make a copy of the design that I liked.  I fitted it and have done some short drives and it works ok.  However, the engine temp is still a little hotter than I would like.  What I did find was that with this new radiator is that switching on the electric fan makes more of difference than it used to.
> 
> On my second run I had a bit more data and found that because of a long stretch of 50mph speed limit (with lots and lots of average speed camera recording!) the engine ran 5 degrees C hotter than when I could drive at 70mph.  I have a rebuilt engine and there was a lot of traffic but I'm confident my normal cruising speed of about 85 - 90 mph (car has a 5-speed) engine temps would be were I would want them to be.
> 
> Note it's been warmer than usual for an English September and while not as hot as a hot summer's day can get, about ok for my tests since while in the middle of the day I would generally drive early morning or early evening when the temps are lower on a warmer day.
> 
> So, not very scientific but based on lots of my experience with the same Sprite.
> 
> One thing I did notice was that the Sprite was very warm inside and much warmer than outside and there is no heater.
> 
> So, the long overdue mini-project was to cut a hole in the wing (passenger side for me but exhaust manifold side for all of us) to let air out of the engine bay - a bit like a big Healey.  The wings are ok and need minor paintwork rather than replacing but I was content to take the risk on the basis that I had funds to buy a new wing and get it painted if necessary.
> 
> I drilled 3 large holes with a hole saw and then used a fine blade for metal in my jigsaw to cut straight (well very nearly) straight lines to create the aperture with nice rounded corners (used the largest hole saw I have).  Then I bought and then cut some stainless steel automotive mesh to go in the inside of the aperture. I used U clips/speed clips on the mesh and suitable B type sheet metal screws to fasten the mesh to the wing (fender for you guys and gals I guess).  I did use countersunk head screws but without countersinking the holes (in a hurry/sloppy/to be addressed).
> 
> I think the end result looks ok but the only photo I have is of the car in my garage but just as I finished the project it rained.  I did a small airflow test with the electric fan running and was surprised at just how much air came out of the aperture.
> 
> So, a road test (but weather is now cooler than my previous tests) to follow but I'm confident of 4 things: the engine temp will be slightly lower as more air will flow through the engine bay and thus more readily through the radiator, it will be cooler inside the car because the warm air is leaving the engine bay through the side wing aperture, not stagnant in the engine bay or passing through the trans tunnel as much, there will be slightly less drag, there will be slightly less lift.
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Daniel
> ------------------------
> 
> [email-masked]
> 
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> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
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> 
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From: Weslake1330 via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2024 23:11:23 +0100

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I have thought about a vent each side but will leave just the one for now.
What I may plan is to make a slatted type vent in aluminium to replace the
mesh at some point.

Sixty Nine was something of a changeover year for when my Sprite was built
and it has always been a cross flow radiator car.

You should be able to get a vented cap.  An alternative would be to
temporarily remove the filler neck and then fit a vent line into that,
along with a basic non-return valve and then refit the filler neck.

Regards  Daniel

On Fri, 20 Sept 2024 at 22:24, Rick Fisk <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Very interesting Daniel and your work looks great.  Why not cut a hole on
> each side?  Is your new radiator a cross flow or downflow?
>
> I've been driving Fr Jack's Midget a little and am trying to locate a
> horrific rattle that occurs at all speeds and seems to be the steering
> column.  Fuel pump keeps dying on me too and needs to be replaced.  Anoth=
er
> thing I haven't sorted yet is the fuel cap.  One of the previous owners
> replaced the fuel tank and the tank does not have a vent line like the
> original tank.  That means you have to leave the fuel fill cap so loose i=
t
> almost falls off to keep the engine running.  If you tighten it down the
> car runs OK for a quarter mile and then dies.  If you loosen the cap you
> get a big Whoosh of air and then the car will run again.
>
> Rick
>
> > On Sep 20, 2024, at 1:13=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > Hi list,
> >
> > A small project report with some background history.  A few years back =
I
> fitted a small airflow blanking device just inside the grille, on one sid=
e,
> of my 69 Sprite and found it didn't make much difference to engine runnin=
g
> temperatures.  When tested in the full scale wind tunnel it was proven to
> reduce drag and lift.
> >
> > At the test everyone asked me why I didn't have one on the other side
> and I explained I hadn't checked if further airflow reductions would
> increase engine temperatures.  At a later date I made one and fitted it
> anyway.
> >
> > In more recent times the Sprite engine temps ran hotter than I would
> have liked and eventually I changed the radiator after some trouble in
> finding something I thought appropriate. Well I don't think it worked as
> well as the previous radiator and recently I finally found a company that
> would make a copy of the design that I liked.  I fitted it and have done
> some short drives and it works ok.  However, the engine temp is still a
> little hotter than I would like.  What I did find was that with this new
> radiator is that switching on the electric fan makes more of difference
> than it used to.
> >
> > On my second run I had a bit more data and found that because of a long
> stretch of 50mph speed limit (with lots and lots of average speed camera
> recording!) the engine ran 5 degrees C hotter than when I could drive at
> 70mph.  I have a rebuilt engine and there was a lot of traffic but I'm
> confident my normal cruising speed of about 85 - 90 mph (car has a 5-spee=
d)
> engine temps would be were I would want them to be.
> >
> > Note it's been warmer than usual for an English September and while not
> as hot as a hot summer's day can get, about ok for my tests since while i=
n
> the middle of the day I would generally drive early morning or early
> evening when the temps are lower on a warmer day.
> >
> > So, not very scientific but based on lots of my experience with the sam=
e
> Sprite.
> >
> > One thing I did notice was that the Sprite was very warm inside and muc=
h
> warmer than outside and there is no heater.
> >
> > So, the long overdue mini-project was to cut a hole in the wing
> (passenger side for me but exhaust manifold side for all of us) to let ai=
r
> out of the engine bay - a bit like a big Healey.  The wings are ok and ne=
ed
> minor paintwork rather than replacing but I was content to take the risk =
on
> the basis that I had funds to buy a new wing and get it painted if
> necessary.
> >
> > I drilled 3 large holes with a hole saw and then used a fine blade for
> metal in my jigsaw to cut straight (well very nearly) straight lines to
> create the aperture with nice rounded corners (used the largest hole saw =
I
> have).  Then I bought and then cut some stainless steel automotive mesh t=
o
> go in the inside of the aperture. I used U clips/speed clips on the mesh
> and suitable B type sheet metal screws to fasten the mesh to the wing
> (fender for you guys and gals I guess).  I did use countersunk head screw=
s
> but without countersinking the holes (in a hurry/sloppy/to be addressed).
> >
> > I think the end result looks ok but the only photo I have is of the car
> in my garage but just as I finished the project it rained.  I did a small
> airflow test with the electric fan running and was surprised at just how
> much air came out of the aperture.
> >
> > So, a road test (but weather is now cooler than my previous tests) to
> follow but I'm confident of 4 things: the engine temp will be slightly
> lower as more air will flow through the engine bay and thus more readily
> through the radiator, it will be cooler inside the car because the warm a=
ir
> is leaving the engine bay through the side wing aperture, not stagnant in
> the engine bay or passing through the trans tunnel as much, there will be
> slightly less drag, there will be slightly less lift.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> >
> > Daniel
> > ------------------------
> >
> > [email-masked]
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I have thought about a vent each side but will leave just =
the one for now.=C2=A0 What I may plan is to make a slatted type vent in al=
uminium to replace the mesh at some point.<div><br></div><div>Sixty Nine wa=
s something of a changeover year for when my Sprite was built and it has al=
ways been a cross flow radiator car.</div><div><br></div><div>You should be=
 able to get a vented cap.=C2=A0 An alternative would be to temporarily rem=
ove the filler neck and then fit a vent line into that, along with a basic =
non-return valve and then refit the filler neck.</div><div><br></div><div>R=
egards=C2=A0 Daniel</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"l=
tr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, 20 Sept 2024 at 22:24, Rick Fisk &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Very interesting Dan=
iel and your work looks great.=C2=A0 Why not cut a hole on each side?=C2=A0=
 Is your new radiator a cross flow or downflow?<br>
<br>
I&#39;ve been driving Fr Jack&#39;s Midget a little and am trying to locate=
 a horrific rattle that occurs at all speeds and seems to be the steering c=
olumn.=C2=A0 Fuel pump keeps dying on me too and needs to be replaced.=C2=
=A0 Another thing I haven&#39;t sorted yet is the fuel cap.=C2=A0 One of th=
e previous owners replaced the fuel tank and the tank does not have a vent =
line like the original tank.=C2=A0 That means you have to leave the fuel fi=
ll cap so loose it almost falls off to keep the engine running.=C2=A0 If yo=
u tighten it down the car runs OK for a quarter mile and then dies.=C2=A0 I=
f you loosen the cap you get a big Whoosh of air and then the car will run =
again.=C2=A0 <br>
<br>
Rick<br>
<br>
&gt; On Sep 20, 2024, at 1:13=E2=80=AFPM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spridgets@autox.=
team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; Hi list,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; A small project report with some background history.=C2=A0 A few years=
 back I fitted a small airflow blanking device just inside the grille, on o=
ne side, of my 69 Sprite and found it didn&#39;t make much difference to en=
gine running temperatures.=C2=A0 When tested in the full scale wind tunnel =
it was proven to reduce drag and lift.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; At the test everyone asked me why I didn&#39;t have one on the other s=
ide and I explained I hadn&#39;t checked if further airflow reductions woul=
d increase engine temperatures.=C2=A0 At a later date I made one and fitted=
 it anyway.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; In more recent times the Sprite engine temps ran hotter than I would h=
ave liked and eventually I changed the radiator after some trouble in findi=
ng something I thought appropriate. Well I don&#39;t think it worked as wel=
l as the previous radiator and recently I finally found a company that woul=
d make a copy of the design that I liked.=C2=A0 I fitted it and have done s=
ome short drives and it works ok.=C2=A0 However, the engine temp is still a=
 little hotter than I would like.=C2=A0 What I did find was that with this =
new radiator is that switching on the electric fan makes more of difference=
 than it used to.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; On my second run I had a bit more data and found that because of a lon=
g stretch of 50mph speed limit (with lots and lots of average speed camera =
recording!) the engine ran 5 degrees C hotter than when I could drive at 70=
mph.=C2=A0 I have a rebuilt engine and there was a lot of traffic but I&#39=
;m confident my normal cruising speed of about 85 - 90 mph (car has a 5-spe=
ed) engine temps would be were I would want them to be.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Note it&#39;s been warmer than usual for an English September and whil=
e not as hot as a hot summer&#39;s day can get, about ok for my tests since=
 while in the middle of the day I would generally drive early morning or ea=
rly evening when the temps are lower on a warmer day.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So, not very scientific but based on lots of my experience with the sa=
me Sprite.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; One thing I did notice was that the Sprite was very warm inside and mu=
ch warmer than outside and there is no heater.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So, the long overdue mini-project was to cut a hole in the wing (passe=
nger side for me but exhaust manifold side for all of us) to let air out of=
 the engine bay - a bit like a big Healey.=C2=A0 The wings are ok and need =
minor paintwork rather than replacing but I was content to take the risk on=
 the basis that I had funds to buy a new wing and get it painted if necessa=
ry.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I drilled 3 large holes with a hole saw and then used a fine blade for=
 metal in my jigsaw to cut straight (well very nearly) straight lines to cr=
eate the aperture with nice rounded corners (used the largest hole saw I ha=
ve).=C2=A0 Then I bought and then cut some stainless steel automotive mesh =
to go in the inside of the aperture. I used U clips/speed clips on the mesh=
 and suitable B type sheet metal screws to fasten the mesh to the wing (fen=
der for you guys and gals I guess).=C2=A0 I did use countersunk head screws=
 but without countersinking the holes (in a hurry/sloppy/to be addressed).<=
br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I think the end result looks ok but the only photo I have is of the ca=
r in my garage but just as I finished the project it rained.=C2=A0 I did a =
small airflow test with the electric fan running and was surprised at just =
how much air came out of the aperture.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; So, a road test (but weather is now cooler than my previous tests) to =
follow but I&#39;m confident of 4 things: the engine temp will be slightly =
lower as more air will flow through the engine bay and thus more readily th=
rough the radiator, it will be cooler inside the car because the warm air i=
s leaving the engine bay through the side wing aperture, not stagnant in th=
e engine bay or passing through the trans tunnel as much, there will be sli=
ghtly less drag, there will be slightly less lift.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Regards<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Daniel<br>
&gt; &lt;WP_20240919_14_57_37_Pro.jpg&gt;<br>
&gt; &lt;WP_20240919_14_58_35_Pro.jpg&gt;<br>
&gt; &lt;WP_20240920_14_46_27_Pro.jpg&gt;<br>
&gt; ------------------------<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">spridget=
[email-masked]</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" rel=3D"no=
referrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets</a>=C2=
=A0 <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/s=
pridgets/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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