Subject: [Spridgets] Cooling fan thoughts

From: crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2019 17:59:49 -0500

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First , thank everyone for positive input on this.I am installing the temp. gauge sender in the cylinder head.   Years ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod.   It had a Flexilite brand adjustable temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan.  It's sensor bulb went into a rubber arc'd piece that allowed the sensor to be placed into coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple.   I had it located at the thermostat housing.   I'm leaning towards something like that.   Most modern temperature sensors are designed for 195° as an initial "on" temperature.   Also most I could find at the local junk yard are going to be very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic radiator.   I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.  If I had a decent temp switch ( 180° or lower?) And a copper/ brass bung , I could solder it into the radiator end tank.  Or possibly into the lower coolant cross tube .   Yes I know the hotter coolant is on top not on the bottom.   Possibly on top of the thermostat housing , although the rear of head heater tap is going to be a bypass up to the thermostat housing which may make that casting a bit "busy" for a thermostatic switch mount.  Those cast iron cross flow thermostat housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area over the thermostat.   I'd use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the right way....  As of this writing I'm committed to using the cast iron one and brazing a 90° fitting on top for the coolant bypass back to the heater port on the head.  I'd love to do it with AN fittings and cool braided hose , considering the "we tight" budget , that's not happening.   My radiator guy is 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bung ( he must have 500+ junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify radiators for customers) but too far to drive on a gamble.  I could shop old foreign cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our "breakers") and test them for what temperature they make contact to close a circut.  Somewhere I remember the old VW's ( rabbit & Scirocco days) had pretty reliable sending units.   I need to do some research looking into early electric cooling fan system operating temperatures or pressures ( higher pressure systems traditionally were higher temperature systems from past experiences).More to come as I get more input.ChuckSent from my LG Mobile
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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">First , thank everyone for positive input on this.</div><div dir="auto">I am installing the temp. gauge sender in the cylinder head.&nbsp; &nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">Years ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod.&nbsp; &nbsp;It had a Flexilite brand adjustable temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan.&nbsp; It's sensor bulb went into a rubber arc'd piece that allowed the sensor to be placed into coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple.&nbsp; &nbsp;I had it located at the thermostat housing.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'm leaning towards something like that.&nbsp; &nbsp;Most modern temperature sensors are designed for 195° as an initial "on" temperature.&nbsp; &nbsp;Also most I could find at the local junk yard are going to be very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic radiator.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.&nbsp; If I had a decent temp switch ( 180° or lower?) And a copper/ brass bung , I could solder it into the radiator end tank.&nbsp; Or possibly into the lower coolant cross tube .&nbsp; &nbsp;Yes I know the hotter coolant is on top not on the bottom.&nbsp; &nbsp;Possibly on top of the thermostat housing , although the rear of head heater tap is going to be a bypass up to the thermostat housing which may make that casting a bit "busy" for a thermostatic switch mount.&nbsp; Those cast iron cross flow thermostat housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area over the thermostat.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'd use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the right way....&nbsp; As of this writing I'm committed to using the cast iron one and brazing a 90° fitting on top for the coolant bypass back to the heater port on the head.&nbsp; I'd love to do it with AN fittings and cool braided hose , considering the "we tight" budget , that's not happening.&nbsp; &nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">My radiator guy is 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bung ( he must have 500+ junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify radiators for customers) but too far to drive on a gamble.&nbsp; I could shop old foreign cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our "breakers") and test them for what temperature they make contact to close a circut.&nbsp; Somewhere I remember the old VW's ( rabbit &amp; Scirocco days) had pretty reliable sending units.&nbsp; &nbsp;I need to do some research looking into early electric cooling fan system operating temperatures or pressures ( higher pressure systems traditionally were higher temperature systems from past experiences).</div><div dir="auto">More to come as I get more input.</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div><div dir="auto" style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div>

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From: Weslake1330 via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 10:28:38 +0000

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Hi Chuck,

My Sprite's fan comes on automatically at 220F/105C approx so I've
generally switched it manually long before then (did the (overdue)
bi-annual coolant change on the Sprite yesterday so ran it up to the fan
switching temp and noted it for you).

if you have a Metric tap (M12?) and I piece of scrap copper or brass you
could make a boss to solder onto the Sprite rad.

If you had a steel weld bung threaded M12 you could weld it into the cross
tube.

Not sure why you are putting the heater tapping coolant into the thermostat
- I've always just put mine back into water hose.

Are the aluminium thermostat housings expensive in the USA?

Regards

Daniel

On Sat, 14 Dec 2019 at 23:00, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> First , thank everyone for positive input on this.
> I am installing the temp. gauge sender in the cylinder head.
> Years ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod.   It had a Flexilite brand
> adjustable temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan.  It's sensor bu=
lb
> went into a rubber arc'd piece that allowed the sensor to be placed into
> coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple.   I had it locat=
ed
> at the thermostat housing.   I'm leaning towards something like that.
>  Most modern temperature sensors are designed for 195=C2=B0 as an initial=
 "on"
> temperature.   Also most I could find at the local junk yard are going to
> be very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic radiator.
>  I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.  If I had a decent temp swit=
ch
> ( 180=C2=B0 or lower?) And a copper/ brass bun g , I could solder it into=
 the
> radiator end tank.  Or possibly into the lower coolant cross tube .   Yes=
 I
> know the hotter coolant is on top not on the bottom.   Possibly on top of
> the thermostat housing , although the rear of head heater tap is going to
> be a bypass up to the thermostat housing which may make that casting a bi=
t
> "busy" for a thermostatic switch mount.  Those cast iron cross flow
> thermostat housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area
> over the thermostat.   I'd use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the
> right way....  As of this writing I'm committed to using the cast iron on=
e
> and brazing a 90=C2=B0 fitting on top for the coolant bypass back to the =
heater
> port on the head.  I'd love to do it with AN fittings and cool braided ho=
se
> , considering the "we tight" budget , that's not happening.
> My radiator guy is 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bun=
g
> ( he mu st have 500+ junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify
> radiators for customers) but too far to drive on a gamble.  I could shop
> old foreign cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our "breakers") and test them
> for what temperature they make contact to close a circut.  Somewhere I
> remember the old VW's ( rabbit & Scirocco days) had pretty reliable sendi=
ng
> units.   I need to do some research looking into early electric cooling f=
an
> system operating temperatures or pressures ( higher pressure systems
> traditionally were higher temperature systems from past experiences).
> More to come as I get more input.
> Chuck
> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
> ------------------------
>
> [email-masked]
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Chuck,<div><br></div><div>My Sprite&#39;s fan comes on =
automatically at 220F/105C approx so I&#39;ve generally switched it manuall=
y long before then (did the (overdue) bi-annual coolant change on the Sprit=
e yesterday so ran it up to the fan switching temp and noted it for you).</=
div><div><br></div><div>if you have a Metric tap (M12?) and I piece of scra=
p copper or brass you could make a boss to solder onto the Sprite rad.</div=
><div><br></div><div>If you had a steel weld bung threaded M12 you could we=
ld it into the cross tube.</div><div><br></div><div>Not sure why you are pu=
tting the heater tapping coolant into the thermostat - I&#39;ve always just=
 put mine back into water hose.</div><div><br></div><div>Are the aluminium =
thermostat housings expensive in the USA?</div><div><br></div><div>Regards<=
/div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Daniel</div></div><br><div class=3D=
"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, 14 Dec 2019 at =
23:00, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">

<div>
    <div style=3D"font-size:10pt"><div dir=3D"auto">First , thank everyone =
for positive input on this.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I am installing the temp=
. gauge sender in the cylinder head.=C2=A0 =C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">Ye=
ars ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod.=C2=A0 =C2=A0It had a Flexilite=
 brand adjustable temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan.=C2=A0 It&#=
39;s sensor bulb went into a rubber arc&#39;d piece that allowed the sensor=
 to be placed into coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0I had it located at the thermostat housing.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;=
m leaning towards something like that.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Most modern temperature =
sensors are designed for 195=C2=B0 as an initial &quot;on&quot; temperature=
.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Also most I could find at the local junk yard are going to be=
 very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic radiator.=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;m using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.=C2=A0 If I had a =
decent temp switch ( 180=C2=B0 or lower?) And a copper/ brass bun
 g , I could solder it into the radiator end tank.=C2=A0 Or possibly into t=
he lower coolant cross tube .=C2=A0 =C2=A0Yes I know the hotter coolant is =
on top not on the bottom.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Possibly on top of the thermostat hou=
sing , although the rear of head heater tap is going to be a bypass up to t=
he thermostat housing which may make that casting a bit &quot;busy&quot; fo=
r a thermostatic switch mount.=C2=A0 Those cast iron cross flow thermostat =
housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area over the therm=
ostat.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;d use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the r=
ight way....=C2=A0 As of this writing I&#39;m committed to using the cast i=
ron one and brazing a 90=C2=B0 fitting on top for the coolant bypass back t=
o the heater port on the head.=C2=A0 I&#39;d love to do it with AN fittings=
 and cool braided hose , considering the &quot;we tight&quot; budget , that=
&#39;s not happening.=C2=A0 =C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">My radiator guy i=
s 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bung ( he mu
 st have 500+ junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify radiators for=
 customers) but too far to drive on a gamble.=C2=A0 I could shop old foreig=
n cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our &quot;breakers&quot;) and test them f=
or what temperature they make contact to close a circut.=C2=A0 Somewhere I =
remember the old VW&#39;s ( rabbit &amp; Scirocco days) had pretty reliable=
 sending units.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I need to do some research looking into early e=
lectric cooling fan system operating temperatures or pressures ( higher pre=
ssure systems traditionally were higher temperature systems from past exper=
iences).</div><div dir=3D"auto">More to come as I get more input.</div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">Chuck</div><div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:9pt"><i>=
Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div>

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From: HealeyRick via Spridgets <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 15:10:41 -0500

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Chuck,

How about using one of these adjustable controls with a probe that inserts
between the radiator fins:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16759/overview/  I use one on my
Nasty Boy, works good.

Rick Neville

lb
ed
 "on"
ch
 the
 I
t
e
heater
se
g
ng
an
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Chuck,<div><br></div><div>How about using one of these adj=
ustable controls with a probe that inserts between the radiator fins:=C2=A0=
=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16759/overview/">ht=
tps://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16759/overview/</a>=C2=A0 I use one on=
 my Nasty Boy, works good.</div><div><br></div><div>Rick Neville</div></div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sa=
t, Dec 14, 2019 at 6:00 PM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;=
border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">

<div>

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