Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New engine for a Honda?

From: Moose <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2025 06:53:12 -0500 11/20/2025 06:53:19 AM, Serialize complete at 11/20/2025 06:53:19 AM

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I forgot the most important part,  engine has about 154,000 miles.

Moose

My SO has a daily driver of a  2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV 
engine.  She loves this car, and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had 
the car for a little over 3 years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles 
faithfully.   The only problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check 
engine light came on.  I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. 
 As I was looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need 
smoke generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been 
split with lots of other projects.  So I made an appointment with my local 
trusted mechanic.  Note, recently we also got her another car, so she 
switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver. 

Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on.  She checks the oil, the stick is 
dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives 
home.  I check it the next morning.  A qt low.  So we take it out for a 
short ride.  No blue smoke under load, no white smoke.  Very faint smell 
of burning oil.  No leaks anywhere.   I did an oil change in March, and 
she hasn't put 3000 miles on it yet.   

For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe 
it's just an erg valve.  No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil.  I do some 
research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. 

OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here is 
the rub.  The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car.  So I'd be 
willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth as she 
would want to keep this one for a long time. 

My questions are... 

Is there anything else I can check?  (Note, I don't think I'll see a 
problem with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the 
cylinders, right?) 
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that 
well versed on Hondas.) 

Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine? 

Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda?  I did one in my 
Jeep decades ago and it went well. 

Thanks. _______________________________________________

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<font size=2 face="sans-serif">I forgot the most important part, &nbsp;engine
has about 154,000 miles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">My SO has a daily driver of a &nbsp;2000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. &nbsp;She loves this car,
and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. &nbsp; The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
&nbsp;I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. &nbsp;As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects. &nbsp;So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic. &nbsp;Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on. &nbsp;She checks the oil, the
stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.)
Then drives home. &nbsp;I check it the next morning. &nbsp;A qt low. &nbsp;So
we take it out for a short ride. &nbsp;No blue smoke under load, no white
smoke. &nbsp;Very faint smell of burning oil. &nbsp;No leaks anywhere.
&nbsp; I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't put 3000 miles on it
yet. &nbsp;</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe
it's just an erg valve. &nbsp;No oil. 8&gt;( So, car is burning oil. &nbsp;I
do some research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. </font><font size=3><br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here
is the rub. &nbsp;The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car. &nbsp;So
I'd be willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth
as she would want to keep this one for a long time. </font><font size=3><br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
My questions are...</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Is there anything else I can check? &nbsp;(Note, I don't think I'll see
a problem with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders,
right?) <br>
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that
well versed on Hondas.)</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda? &nbsp;I did one
in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.</font><font size=3> <br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font><font size=3> </font><tt><font size=2>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
</font></tt>
<br>
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[email-masked]
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From: Douglas Shook <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2025 04:34:15 -0800

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Hi Moose,

I would think that if it were burning that much oil there would be
significant blue smoke out the tailpipe, but perhaps the
catalytic converter is doing its job and fully oxidizing the oil.

But if it is not leaking or blowing it out, it almost has to be getting
into the combustion chamber and burning it (e.g.,getting into the intake
through a crack or a leaking gasket, or getting past the rings, or through
the crankcase ventilation system, etc.).

Usually the oil scraper rings slowly wear down and oil consumption
increases incrementally over time. It sounds like this increased oil
consumption started suddenly which may not indicate ring wear. It could be
a broken ring or a chipped piston, etc.

I might pull the plugs, take a compression check of each cylinder, look at
the plugs to see if they are oily, etc. If you have a borescope (they
are about $20 now for use with your phone or laptop) and take a look into
each cylinder with the piston at the bottom of the stroke to see if there
are any scrapes, signs of damage, odd wear, etc.

I think the key would be to try to figure out where the oil is going first
before deciding on what to do. These engines are probably good for another
100K miles under normal circumstances, but due to labor costs, rebuilding
the engine may cost more than the value of the car unless you do it
yourself.

If the bore is worn, it probably makes more sense to grab a good junkyard
engine and do the swap, but it would be a shame to do so if the oil
consumption is caused by a bad head gasket or something simple to fix with
the engine still in the car.

On Thu, Nov 20, 2025 at 3:59=E2=80=AFAM Moose <[email-masked]> wrote:

> the car for a little over 3 years and she changes the oil every 3000 mile=
s
> engine light came on.  I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak=
.
> split with lots of other projects.  So I made an appointment with my loca=
l
> Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on.  She checks the oil, the stick i=
s
> dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drive=
s
> short ride.  No blue smoke under load, no white smoke.  Very faint smell =
of
> burning oil.  No leaks anywhere.   I did an oil change in March, and she
> hasn't put 3000 miles on it yet.
>
> OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here i=
s
> willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth as sh=
e
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Hi =
Moose,</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></di=
v><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I would think that=
 if it were=C2=A0burning that much oil there would be significant blue smok=
e out the tailpipe, but perhaps the catalytic=C2=A0converter is doing its j=
ob and fully oxidizing the oil.=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" sty=
le=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-size:small">But if it is not leaking or blowing it out, it almost has to b=
e getting into the combustion chamber and burning it (e.g.,getting into the=
 intake through a crack or a leaking gasket, or getting past the rings, or =
through the crankcase ventilation system, etc.).</div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"font-size:small">Usually the oil scraper rings slowly wear down and =
oil consumption increases incrementally=C2=A0over time. It sounds like this=
 increased oil consumption started suddenly which may not indicate ring wea=
r. It could be a broken ring or a chipped piston, etc.</div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"font-size:small">I might pull the plugs, take a compression ch=
eck of each cylinder, look at the plugs to see if they are oily, etc. If yo=
u have a borescope (they are=C2=A0about=C2=A0$20 now for use with your phon=
e or laptop) and take a look into each cylinder with the piston at the bott=
om of the stroke to see if there are any scrapes, signs of damage, odd wear=
, etc.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></di=
v><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I think the key wo=
uld be to try to figure out where the oil is going first before deciding on=
 what to do. These engines are probably good for another 100K miles under n=
ormal circumstances, but due to labor costs, rebuilding the engine may cost=
 more than the value of the car unless you do it yourself.=C2=A0</div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">If the bore is worn, it probably ma=
kes more sense to grab a good junkyard engine and do the swap, but it would=
 be a shame to do so if the oil consumption is caused by a bad head gasket =
or something simple to fix with the engine still in the car.</div></div><br=
><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 20, 2025 at 3:59=E2=80=AFAM Moose &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px=
 solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-ser=
if">I forgot the most important part, =C2=A0engine
has about 154,000 miles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My SO has a daily driver of a =C2=
=A02000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine.=C2=A0 She loves this car,
and it&#39;s in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. =C2=A0 The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
=C2=A0I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak.=C2=A0 As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects.=C2=A0 So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic.=C2=A0 Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn&#39;t a daily, but semi-daily driver=
.</font><font size=3D"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on.=C2=A0 She checks the oil, the
stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.)
Then drives home.=C2=A0 I check it the next morning.=C2=A0 A qt low.=C2=A0 =
So
we take it out for a short ride.=C2=A0 No blue smoke under load, no white
smoke.=C2=A0 Very faint smell of burning oil.=C2=A0 No leaks anywhere.
=C2=A0 I did an oil change in March, and she hasn&#39;t put 3000 miles on i=
t
yet. =C2=A0</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe
it&#39;s just an erg valve.=C2=A0 No oil. 8&gt;( So, car is burning oil.=C2=
=A0 I
do some research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. </font><f=
ont size=3D"3"><br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here
is the rub.=C2=A0 The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car.=C2=A0 S=
o
I&#39;d be willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was wo=
rth
as she would want to keep this one for a long time. </font><font size=3D"3"=
><br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
My questions are...</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Is there anything else I can check? =C2=A0(Note, I don&#39;t think I&#39;ll=
 see
a problem with compression testing as the oil can still &#39;seal up&#39; t=
he cylinders,
right?) <br>
Could this be related to the codes? (I don&#39;t believe so, but I&#39;m no=
t that
well versed on Hondas.)</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?</font><font size=
=3D"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda?=C2=A0 I did one
in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font><font size=3D"3"> </font><tt><font size=3D"2">_______________=
________________________________<br>
<br>
</font></tt>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
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alk/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
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</blockquote></div>

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From: Pat Horne <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2025 07:37:03 -0600

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You might try a leak down test after the compression test. While it won=E2=80=
=99t tell you the condition of the oil ring, it will give you a better idea o=
f the general condition of the engine.=20

Might also be valve seals.=20

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity

On Nov 20, 2025, at 5:49=E2=80=AFAM, Moose <[email-masked]> wrote:

=EF=BB=BFMy SO has a daily driver of a  2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 =
F OHV engine.  She loves this car, and it's in REALLY great shape. She has h=
ad the car for a little over 3 years and she changes the oil every 3000 mile=
s faithfully.   The only problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check e=
ngine light came on.  I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak.  A=
s I was looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smo=
ke generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split=
 with lots of other projects.  So I made an appointment with my local truste=
d mechanic.  Note, recently we also got her another car, so she switches bet=
ween them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.

Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on.  She checks the oil, the stick is d=
ry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives ho=
me.  I check it the next morning.  A qt low.  So we take it out for a short r=
ide.  No blue smoke under load, no white smoke.  Very faint smell of burning=
 oil.  No leaks anywhere.   I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't put=
 3000 miles on it yet. =20

For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe it's j=
ust an erg valve.  No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil.  I do some research a=
nd find that some Hondas had issues with rings.

OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here is t=
he rub.  The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car.  So I'd be willin=
g to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth as she would w=
ant to keep this one for a long time.

My questions are...

Is there anything else I can check?  (Note, I don't think I'll see a problem=
 with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, righ=
t?)
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that we=
ll versed on Hondas.)

Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda?  I did one in my Je=
ep decades ago and it went well.

Thanks.

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">You might try a leak down test after the co=
mpression test. While it won=E2=80=99t tell you the condition of the oil rin=
g, it will give you a better idea of the general condition of the engine.&nb=
sp;<div><br></div><div>Might also be valve seals.&nbsp;</div><div><br id=3D"=
lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We sup=
port Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On N=
ov 20, 2025, at 5:49=E2=80=AFAM, Moose &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><=
br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My S=
O has a daily driver of a &nbsp;2000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. &nbsp;She loves this car,
and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. &nbsp; The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
&nbsp;I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. &nbsp;As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects. &nbsp;So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic. &nbsp;Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.</fo=
nt>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Then 2 days ago, the oil light come=
s
on. &nbsp;She checks the oil, the stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it
takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives home. &nbsp;I check it the
next morning. &nbsp;A qt low. &nbsp;So we take it out for a short ride.
&nbsp;No blue smoke under load, no white smoke. &nbsp;Very faint smell
of burning oil. &nbsp;No leaks anywhere. &nbsp; I did an oil change in
March, and she hasn't put 3000 miles on it yet. &nbsp;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">For a last hope, I check the intake=

hoping to find oil in it and maybe it's just an erg valve. &nbsp;No oil.
8&gt;( So, car is burning oil. &nbsp;I do some research and find that some
Hondas had issues with rings. </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">OK, a ring job is more than likely m=
ore
than the car is worth, but here is the rub. &nbsp;The car is in great shape,=

and she LOVES the car. &nbsp;So I'd be willing to put money into it, even
if it was more than it was worth as she would want to keep this one for
a long time. </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My questions are...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Is there anything else I can check?=

&nbsp;(Note, I don't think I'll see a problem with compression testing
as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, right?) </font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Could this be related to the codes?=

(I don't believe so, but I'm not that well versed on Hondas.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Would a ring job be better than a r=
e-manufactured
engine?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Has anyone ever put a re-manufactur=
ed
engine in a Honda? &nbsp;I did one in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.<=
/font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Thanks.</font>
<br><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></=
span><br><span>[email-masked]</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.t=
eam.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</=
span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox=
.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</span><br><=
span></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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From: "Tim ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2025 14:12:06 +0000

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From: Jim Juhas <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2025 11:38:11 -0500

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With that much oil loss, a compression test itself would be revealing. The v=
arious diagnostic tests that I saw suggested are all good paths to take as w=
ell. Although unlikely I would also look at the coolant for signs of oil. Bu=
t given the sudden occurrence I would expect a broken part, e.g., ring, pist=
on, gasket. If I were doing an engine rebuild, with doing the labor myself, I=
 would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in machine work and parts based on my r=
ecent experiences with race engines for my MGA. But there are lots of these c=
ars so used engines might be available.=20
=20
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2025, at 6:54=E2=80=AFAM, Moose <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFI forgot the most important part,  engine has about 154,000 miles=
.
>=20
> Moose
>=20
>=20
>=20
> My SO has a daily driver of a  2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV e=
ngine.  She loves this car, and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the c=
ar for a little over 3 years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithf=
ully.   The only problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine l=
ight came on.  I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak.  As I was=
 looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke gene=
rator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split with l=
ots of other projects.  So I made an appointment with my local trusted mecha=
nic.  Note, recently we also got her another car, so she switches between th=
em and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.
>=20
> Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on.  She checks the oil, the stick is=
 dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives h=
ome.  I check it the next morning.  A qt low.  So we take it out for a short=
 ride.  No blue smoke under load, no white smoke.  Very faint smell of burni=
ng oil.  No leaks anywhere.   I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't p=
ut 3000 miles on it yet. =20
>=20
> For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe it'=
s just an erg valve.  No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil.  I do some researc=
h and find that some Hondas had issues with rings.
>=20
> OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here is=
 the rub.  The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car.  So I'd be will=
ing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth as she would=
 want to keep this one for a long time.
>=20
> My questions are...
>=20
> Is there anything else I can check?  (Note, I don't think I'll see a probl=
em with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, ri=
ght?)
> Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that w=
ell versed on Hondas.)
>=20
>=20
> Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda?  I did one in my J=
eep decades ago and it went well.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.=
[email-masked]
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">With that much oil loss, a compression test=
 itself would be revealing. The various diagnostic tests that I saw suggeste=
d are all good paths to take as well. Although unlikely I would also look at=
 the coolant for signs of oil. But given the sudden occurrence I would expec=
t a broken part, e.g., ring, piston, gasket. If I were doing an engine rebui=
ld, with doing the labor myself, I would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in ma=
chine work and parts based on my recent experiences with race engines for my=
 MGA. But there are lots of these cars so used engines might be available.&n=
bsp;<div>&nbsp;<br id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">S=
ent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On No=
v 20, 2025, at 6:54=E2=80=AFAM, Moose &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><b=
r></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<fo=
nt size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I forgot the most important part, &nbsp;en=
gine
has about 154,000 miles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My SO has a daily driver of a &nbsp=
;2000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. &nbsp;She loves this car,
and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. &nbsp; The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
&nbsp;I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. &nbsp;As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects. &nbsp;So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic. &nbsp;Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.</fo=
nt><font size=3D"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on. &nbsp;She checks the oil, the
stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.)
Then drives home. &nbsp;I check it the next morning. &nbsp;A qt low. &nbsp;S=
o
we take it out for a short ride. &nbsp;No blue smoke under load, no white
smoke. &nbsp;Very faint smell of burning oil. &nbsp;No leaks anywhere.
&nbsp; I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't put 3000 miles on it
yet. &nbsp;</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe
it's just an erg valve. &nbsp;No oil. 8&gt;( So, car is burning oil. &nbsp;I=

do some research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. </font><fo=
nt size=3D"3"><br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here
is the rub. &nbsp;The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car. &nbsp;So=

I'd be willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth
as she would want to keep this one for a long time. </font><font size=3D"3">=
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
My questions are...</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Is there anything else I can check? &nbsp;(Note, I don't think I'll see
a problem with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylind=
ers,
right?) <br>
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that
well versed on Hondas.)</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?</font><font size=3D=
"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda? &nbsp;I did one
in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font><font size=3D"3"> </font><tt><font size=3D"2">________________=
_______________________________<br>
<br>
</font></tt>
<br><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></=
span><br><span>[email-masked]</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.t=
eam.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</=
span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox=
.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</span><br>=
<span></span><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

--===============3775131566150556540==--

---

From: Ronnie Day <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2025 13:40:35 -0600

--===============3420429927047075634==

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Something sounds off. That said we=E2=80=99re facing a similar situation wi=
th our
=E2=80=9898 F150 which has the 4.6 Triton V8. It started consuming coolant =
several
months ago. No leaks anywhere, diagnosed as a blown head gasket in one of
the cylinders. If I was younger and had a decent place to do a top end
rebuild, I=E2=80=99d probably tackle it myself, but neither is the case, so=
=E2=80=A6!

The shop I use quoted us $8500 to install a remanned long block, from
Jasper I think. We will probably have that done in the next month or so.
Both Jasper and ATK have solid reputations, with 100K/3 year warranties.
We=E2=80=99ll have a one year warranty on the installation. If anyone has c=
hecked
used truck prices (or used vehicles, period) recently, they=E2=80=99re outr=
ageous!

The independent Honda shop in DFW we used for years recommends ATK. Doing a
ring job on Hondas is iffy since the blocks are aluminum. Used Honda prices
are as crazy as truck prices! It=E2=80=99s a tough call, but in your case, =
and
ours, putting that much money in a known solid vehicle is definitely worth
serious consideration, IMO.

HTH,
Ron

On Thu, Nov 20, 2025 at 10:51=E2=80=AFAM Jim Juhas <[email-masked]>=
 wrote:

> With that much oil loss, a compression test itself would be revealing. Th=
e
> various diagnostic tests that I saw suggested are all good paths to take =
as
> well. Although unlikely I would also look at the coolant for signs of oil=
.
> But given the sudden occurrence I would expect a broken part, e.g., ring,
> piston, gasket. If I were doing an engine rebuild, with doing the labor
> myself, I would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in machine work and parts
> based on my recent experiences with race engines for my MGA. But there ar=
e
> lots of these cars so used engines might be available.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> =EF=BB=BFI forgot the most important part,  engine has about 154,000 mile=
s.
s
.
l
s
s
of
s
e
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

--00000000000095ca7906440bdf26
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Something sounds off. That said we=E2=80=99re facing a si=
milar situation with our =E2=80=9898 F150 which has the 4.6 Triton V8. It s=
tarted consuming coolant several months ago. No leaks anywhere, diagnosed a=
s a blown head gasket in one of the cylinders.=C2=A0<span style=3D"font-fam=
ily:-apple-system,sans-serif">If I was younger and had a decent place to do=
 a top end rebuild, I=E2=80=99d probably tackle it myself, but neither is t=
he case, so=E2=80=A6!</span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-fam=
ily:-apple-system,sans-serif"><br></span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span styl=
e=3D"font-family:-apple-system,sans-serif">The shop I use quoted us $8500 t=
o install a remanned long block, from Jasper I think. We will probably have=
 that done in the next month or so. Both Jasper and ATK have solid reputati=
ons, with 100K/3 year warranties. We=E2=80=99ll have a one year warranty on=
 the installation. If anyone has checked used truck prices (or used vehicle=
s, period) recently, they=E2=80=99re outrageous!</span></div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><span style=3D"font-family:-apple-system,sans-serif"><br></span></div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:-apple-system,sans-serif">The i=
ndependent Honda shop in DFW we used for years recommends ATK. Doing a ring=
 job on Hondas is iffy since the blocks are aluminum. Used Honda prices are=
 as crazy as truck prices! It=E2=80=99s a tough call, but in your case, and=
 ours, putting that much money in a known solid vehicle is definitely worth=
 serious consideration, IMO.</span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"f=
ont-family:-apple-system,sans-serif"><br></span></div><div dir=3D"auto"><sp=
an style=3D"font-family:-apple-system,sans-serif">HTH,</span></div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:-apple-system,sans-serif">Ron</span></=
div><div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"l=
tr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 20, 2025 at 10:51=E2=80=AFAM Jim Juhas=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">With th=
at much oil loss, a compression test itself would be revealing. The various=
 diagnostic tests that I saw suggested are all good paths to take as well. =
Although unlikely I would also look at the coolant for signs of oil. But gi=
ven the sudden occurrence I would expect a broken part, e.g., ring, piston,=
 gasket. If I were doing an engine rebuild, with doing the labor myself, I =
would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in machine work and parts based on my r=
ecent experiences with race engines for my MGA. But there are lots of these=
 cars so used engines might be available.=C2=A0<div>=C2=A0<br id=3D"m_-8982=
288896734751617lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from =
my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 20, 20=
25, at 6:54=E2=80=AFAM, Moose &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" targ=
et=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><b=
lockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<font size=3D"2" face=3D"=
sans-serif">I forgot the most important part, =C2=A0engine
has about 154,000 miles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My SO has a daily driver of a =C2=
=A02000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine.=C2=A0 She loves this car,
and it&#39;s in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. =C2=A0 The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
=C2=A0I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak.=C2=A0 As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects.=C2=A0 So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic.=C2=A0 Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn&#39;t a daily, but semi-daily driver=
.</font><font size=3D"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on.=C2=A0 She checks the oil, the
stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.)
Then drives home.=C2=A0 I check it the next morning.=C2=A0 A qt low.=C2=A0 =
So
we take it out for a short ride.=C2=A0 No blue smoke under load, no white
smoke.=C2=A0 Very faint smell of burning oil.=C2=A0 No leaks anywhere.
=C2=A0 I did an oil change in March, and she hasn&#39;t put 3000 miles on i=
t
yet. =C2=A0</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe
it&#39;s just an erg valve.=C2=A0 No oil. 8&gt;( So, car is burning oil.=C2=
=A0 I
do some research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. </font><f=
ont size=3D"3"><br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here
is the rub.=C2=A0 The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car.=C2=A0 S=
o
I&#39;d be willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was wo=
rth
as she would want to keep this one for a long time. </font><font size=3D"3"=
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
My questions are...</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Is there anything else I can check? =C2=A0(Note, I don&#39;t think I&#39;ll=
 see
a problem with compression testing as the oil can still &#39;seal up&#39; t=
he cylinders,
right?) <br>
Could this be related to the codes? (I don&#39;t believe so, but I&#39;m no=
t that
well versed on Hondas.)</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?</font><font size=
=3D"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda?=C2=A0 I did one
in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font><font size=3D"3"> </font><tt><font size=3D"2">_______________=
________________________________<br>
<br>
</font></tt>
<br><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span><=
/span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://w=
ww.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation =C2=A0$12.96</span><br><span>=
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" target=3D"_bla=
nk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.tea=
m.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></span><b=
r><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.n=
et/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http=
://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a></spa=
n><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></div></div>_____________________=
__________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============3420429927047075634==--

---

From: Moose <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2025 18:42:20 -0500 11/21/2025 06:42:26 PM, Serialize complete at 11/21/2025 06:42:26 PM

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============1669174536331774789==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0082381F85258D49_=

Well gurus, I fixed the Honda and I'm almost embarrassed to say it.

First, I checked the intake for oil thinking that would show me if it was 
a pcv valve that failed.  It was clean.

HOWEVER, I didn't realize the best way to check them is to just pull them 
out and replace them. (It was $4.50 and $8 for the grommet.)  Actually, if 
you pull them out and shake them, you should hear it rattle.

Well, I replaced it. And no more oil leak!!!!!  I also borescoped the 
cylinders (all were near perfect) and replaced the spark plugs while I was 
there.  Car runs much smoother now as a result!

So, who was the winner that told me this...

AI.  That is right, I put the question to ChatGPT and that was the first 
thing it told me to try.  It gave me a nice list of things to try in 
order.

Since I figured, I was on a roll, I pushed on.  One of the problems with 
the car that we never had the 'radio security code' and after a battery 
replacement, the radio was locked.

So I found a link to a Honda site where you can recover the codes, but it 
required the S/N of the radio (and car VIN.)  No problem I figured. Taking 
the radio out was 2 clips and 3 screws to get the dash off of it. HOWEVER, 
there was a surprise hidden for 'non-Honda' mechanics that may try to do 
this.  The button for the hazard lights has an electrical connector 
attached to it.  Like all automotive connectors, it requires a magic 
spell, 2 incantations, and a bit of unicorn farts to disconnect it 
(Seriously, why can't they standardize electrical connectors?) 
Anyway, when you get it apart, the spring that returns the hazard light 
button is held in-between the switch and the connector.  So guess where 
this spring shoots one you disconnect the plug.  That's right, straight 
into the depths of the dash board.  CRUD!

Luckily, I found a spring that worked in my 'springs and things' draw and 
was able to get it all back together. So the car now has a radio as well.

In the end, I'm a happy man and the SO thinks I can walk on water.  Don't 
worry, I'm sure I'll screw up soon enough to dispel that image.  8>)

Moose
--=_alternative 0082381F85258D49_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Well gurus, I fixed the Honda and I'm almost
embarrassed to say it.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, I checked the intake for oil
thinking that would show me if it was a pcv valve that failed. &nbsp;It
was clean.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">HOWEVER, I didn't realize the best way
to check them is to just pull them out and replace them. (It was $4.50
and $8 for the grommet.) &nbsp;Actually, if you pull them out and shake
them, you should hear it rattle.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Well, I replaced it. And no more oil
leak!!!!! &nbsp;I also borescoped the cylinders (all were near perfect)
and replaced the spark plugs while I was there. &nbsp;Car runs much smoother
now as a result!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, who was the winner that told me
this...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">AI. &nbsp;That is right, I put the question
to ChatGPT and that was the first thing it told me to try. &nbsp;It gave
me a nice list of things to try in order.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Since I figured, I was on a roll, I
pushed on. &nbsp;One of the problems with the car that we never had the
'radio security code' and after a battery replacement, the radio was locked.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So I found a link to a Honda site where
you can recover the codes, but it required the S/N of the radio (and car
VIN.) &nbsp;No problem I figured. &nbsp;Taking the radio out was 2 clips
and 3 screws to get the dash off of it. &nbsp;HOWEVER, there was a surprise
hidden for 'non-Honda' mechanics that may try to do this. &nbsp;The button
for the hazard lights has an electrical connector attached to it. &nbsp;Like
all automotive connectors, it requires a magic spell, 2 incantations, and
a bit of unicorn farts to disconnect it (Seriously, why can't they standardize
electrical connectors?) &nbsp;</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Anyway, when you get it apart, the spring
that returns the hazard light button is held in-between the switch and
the connector. &nbsp;So guess where this spring shoots one you disconnect
the plug. &nbsp;That's right, straight into the depths of the dash board.
&nbsp;CRUD!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Luckily, I found a spring that worked
in my 'springs and things' draw and was able to get it all back together.
So the car now has a radio as well.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">In the end, I'm a happy man and the
SO thinks I can walk on water. &nbsp;Don't worry, I'm sure I'll screw up
soon enough to dispel that image. &nbsp;8&gt;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
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From: Moose <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2025 09:57:51 -0500 11/23/2025 09:57:53 AM, Serialize complete at 11/23/2025 09:57:53 AM

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