Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird question

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> 8ZOT+5W9IGFNz2n5FBTV1g3fUAecCfjL7dJYp/APfJ/D8QVogWEOZKUMB47A+ealPbslXApBksC7tSYIvllpU1ETVms288xqs9s=
Date: Fri, 17 May 2024 18:29:16 -0700

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Long time ago, I painted the vinyl parts of an aircraft interior with 
vinyl paint; it stuck and held up pretty well. Maybe put some sort of 
sealant on the top after painting.

On 5/17/2024 8:25 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
> So I wanted to know if anyone out there have any experiences with 
> painting vinyl/canvas tops.
>
> Here is the situation.  I painted my jeep in a zebra pattern.  I have 
> a soft top (this exact one... 
> https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/ 
> <https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/> 
>
>
> and I was wondering if I can paint or dye stripes on it as well.  I'm 
> not 100% sure what it's made of.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone had an success with doing something 
> like this.
>
> Thanks,  BTW, my zebra jeep's name is "Spot"  8>)
>
> Moose

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    Long time ago, I painted the vinyl parts of an aircraft interior
    with vinyl paint; it stuck and held up pretty well. Maybe put some
    sort of sealant on the top after painting.<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/17/2024 8:25 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">So I wanted to know if anyone out
        there
        have any experiences with painting vinyl/canvas tops.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Here is the situation.  I painted
        my jeep in a zebra pattern.  I have a soft top (this exact
        one...
         </font><a
href="https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/"
        moz-do-not-send="true"><font size="2" face="sans-serif"
          color="blue">https://www.smittybilt.com/product-skus/smittybilt-extended-top-black-diamond-93635/</font></a>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">and I was wondering if I can
        paint or
        dye stripes on it as well.  I'm not 100% sure what it's made of.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">I was just wondering if anyone
        had an
        success with doing something like this.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Thanks,  BTW, my zebra jeep's
        name
        is "Spot"  8&gt;)</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
      <span style="white-space: pre-wrap">
</span>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]> mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 00:48:01 -0400

I need access to the individual pins in automotive 
connectors.  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing 
that work.  But other times I need to actually reach into the 
connector and connect to a pin or socket.  Most recently I was 
working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.  I wanted 
to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin 
to actuate the motor.  Switching the two makes the motor operate in 
the other direction.  That's how the running boards extend or 
retract.  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an 
unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with 
small alligator clips.  That worked out, but if the pins had been 
adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.  I see there are some 
breakout wire sets available like 
this: 
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an 
oscilloscope, which is not my situation.  There are also sets of 
automotive pins available like this: 
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. 
I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.  So, what do you guys 
use for these situations?  Of course next time it will probably be a 
different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or 
shape.  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd 
like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.  Have you found 
something that works for you?  Thanks.

-Steve T.

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From: Arvid Jedlicka <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 02:44:12 -0500

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Maybe something like this ...
https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=probe
.

On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<div dir=3D"auto">Maybe something like this ...=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www=
.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=3Dprobe">=
https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_=
q=3Dprobe</a>.=C2=A0</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" c=
lass=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<=
br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;borde=
r-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I need access to the individual pin=
s in automotive <br>
connectors.=C2=A0 Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing <b=
r>
that work.=C2=A0 But other times I need to actually reach into the <br>
connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C2=A0 Most recently I was <br>
working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C2=A0 I wanted <=
br>
to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin <br>
to actuate the motor.=C2=A0 Switching the two makes the motor operate in <b=
r>
the other direction.=C2=A0 That&#39;s how the running boards extend or <br>
retract.=C2=A0 Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an <br>
unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with <br>
small alligator clips.=C2=A0 That worked out, but if the pins had been <br>
adjacent I wouldn&#39;t have had enough room.=C2=A0 I see there are some <b=
r>
breakout wire sets available like <br>
this: <br>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscillisc=
ope/dp/B07QXZ79J2" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://=
www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2</=
a>. <br>
This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an <br>
oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C2=A0 There are also sets of <br>
automotive pins available like this: <br>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-=
Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Re=
moval/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3</a>. <br>
I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C2=A0 So, what do you guys <=
br>
use for these situations?=C2=A0 Of course next time it will probably be a <=
br>
different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or <br>
shape.=C2=A0 I am sure I won&#39;t have every possible size and type, but I=
&#39;d <br>
like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C2=A0 Have you found <=
br>
something that works for you?=C2=A0 Thanks.<br>
<br>
-Steve T.<br>
<br>
<br>
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 08:19:28 -0400 05/23/2024 08:19:36 AM, Serialize complete at 05/23/2024 08:19:36 AM

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Steven

Not sure this is the perfect solution to your problem, but the power 
probe...
https://www.powerprobe.com/
can offer both +12vdc and -12vdc with one pin (among a massive amount of 
other features.)

It ain't cheap, but it is an amazing tool that will help with all 
electrical work on vehicles.

Moose

From:   Steven Trovato <[email-masked]>
To:     [email-masked]
Date:   05/23/2024 12:54 AM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <[email-masked]>

https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3

-Steve T.

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
http://autox.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Steven</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Not sure this is the perfect solution
to your problem, but the power probe...</font>
<br><a href=https://www.powerprobe.com/><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">https://www.powerprobe.com/</font></a>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">can offer both +12vdc and -12vdc with
one pin (among a massive amount of other features.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">It ain't cheap, but it is an amazing
tool that will help with all electrical work on vehicles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">From: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Steven Trovato &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">To: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">[email-masked]</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Date: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">05/23/2024 12:54 AM</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Subject: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">[Shop-talk]
automotive connector breakout wires</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Sent by: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">&quot;Shop-talk&quot;
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</font>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><tt><font size=2>I need access to the individual pins in automotive
<br>
connectors. &nbsp;Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
<br>
that work. &nbsp;But other times I need to actually reach into the <br>
connector and connect to a pin or socket. &nbsp;Most recently I was <br>
working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition. &nbsp;I wanted
<br>
to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin <br>
to actuate the motor. &nbsp;Switching the two makes the motor operate in
<br>
the other direction. &nbsp;That's how the running boards extend or <br>
retract. &nbsp;Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
<br>
unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with <br>
small alligator clips. &nbsp;That worked out, but if the pins had been
<br>
adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room. &nbsp;I see there are some <br>
breakout wire sets available like <br>
this: <br>
</font></tt><a href="https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2"><tt><font size=2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2</font></tt></a><tt><font size=2>.
<br>
This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an <br>
oscilloscope, which is not my situation. &nbsp;There are also sets of <br>
automotive pins available like this: <br>
</font></tt><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3"><tt><font size=2>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3</font></tt></a><tt><font size=2>.
<br>
I suppose I could make my own wires as needed. &nbsp;So, what do you guys
<br>
use for these situations? &nbsp;Of course next time it will probably be
a <br>
different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or <br>
shape. &nbsp;I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
<br>
like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities. &nbsp;Have you found
<br>
something that works for you? &nbsp;Thanks.<br>
<br>
-Steve T.<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]> mail.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 11:03:56 -0400

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Yes, but back probing isn't always easy/possible 
on some of the more weatherproof connectors and I 
don't know if I would make a good enough 
connection to apply voltage and ground to run a 
motor.  I had the connector open on my bench so I 
was looking for a kit to do "front probing" if that's a thing.

At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
>Maybe something like this ...=C2 
><https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psug=
g_q=3Dprobe>https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.htm=
l?_br_psugg_q=3Dprobe.=C2 
>
>
>On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato 
>connectors.=C2  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
>that work.=C2  But other times I need to actually reach into the
>connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C2  Most recently I was
>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C2  I wanted
>to actuate the motor.=C2  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
>the other direction.=C2  That's how the running boards extend or
>retract.=C2  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
>small alligator clips.=C2  That worked out, but if the pins had been
>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.=C2  I see there are some
><https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B0=
7QXZ79J2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscop=
e/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C2  There are also sets of
><https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/d=
p/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automot=
ive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3. 
>
>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C2  So, what do you guys
>use for these situations?=C2  Of course next time it will probably be a
>shape.=C2  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C2  Have you found
>something that works for you?=C2  Thanks.
>
>-Steve T.
>
>
>--
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<body>
Yes, but back probing isn't always easy/possible on some of the more
weatherproof connectors and I don't know if I would make a good enough
connection to apply voltage and ground to run a motor.&nbsp; I had the
connector open on my bench so I was looking for a kit to do &quot;front
probing&quot; if that's a thing.  <br><br>
At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">Maybe something like this ..=
=2E=C2
<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html=
?_br_psugg_q=3Dprobe">
https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_=
q=3Dprobe</a>
=2E=C2 <br><br>
On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
&gt; wrote:<br>

<dl>
<dd>I need access to the individual pins in automotive <br>

<dd>connectors.=C2&nbsp; Sometimes there are other approaches like back
probing <br>

<dd>that work.=C2&nbsp; But other times I need to actually reach into the
<br>

<dd>connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C2&nbsp; Most recently I was
<br>

<dd>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C2&nbsp; I
wanted <br>

<dd>to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
<br>

<dd>to actuate the motor.=C2&nbsp; Switching the two makes the motor
operate in <br>

<dd>the other direction.=C2&nbsp; That's how the running boards extend or
<br>

<dd>retract.=C2&nbsp; Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by
an <br>

<dd>unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
<br>

<dd>small alligator clips.=C2&nbsp; That worked out, but if the pins had
been <br>

<dd>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.=C2&nbsp; I see there are some=

<br>

<dd>breakout wire sets available like <br>

<dd>this: <br>

<dd>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscillisc=
ope/dp/B07QXZ79J2">
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07Q=
XZ79J2</a>
=2E <br>

<dd>This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an <br>

<dd>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C2&nbsp; There are also sets
of <br>

<dd>automotive pins available like this: <br>

<dd>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-=
Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3">
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/=
B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3</a>
=2E <br>

<dd>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C2&nbsp; So, what do you=

guys <br>

<dd>use for these situations?=C2&nbsp; Of course next time it will probably=

be a <br>

<dd>different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or <br>

<dd>shape.=C2&nbsp; I am sure I won't have every possible size and type,
but I'd <br>

<dd>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C2&nbsp; Have you
found <br>

<dd>something that works for you?=C2&nbsp; Thanks.<br><br>

<dd>-Steve T.<br><br>
<br>

<dd>-- <br>

<dd>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]> mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 11:12:48 -0400

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Power probe is great.  I have one.  In my case I needed to apply 12V 
to one pin and ground to another.  Then switch which pin got which to 
reverse.  Would almost need two power probes.  And the real problem 
is getting the 12V and ground to the pins.  I'm not steady enough to 
freehand the probe tip into the connector to the correct pin, 
especially if hitting the wrong pin or bridging two together might 
have bad consequences.

At 08:19 AM 5/23/2024, [email-masked] wrote:
>Steven
>
>Not sure this is the perfect solution to your problem, but the power probe...
><https://www.powerprobe.com/>https://www.powerprobe.com/
>can offer both +12vdc and -12vdc with one pin (among a massive 
>amount of other features.)
>
><https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2. 
>
><https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3. 
>
><www.avast.htm>www.avast.com
><http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
><http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>

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<html>
<body>
Power probe is great.&nbsp; I have one.&nbsp; In my case I needed to
apply 12V to one pin and ground to another.&nbsp; Then switch which pin
got which to reverse.&nbsp; Would almost need two power probes.&nbsp; And
the real problem is getting the 12V and ground to the pins.&nbsp; I'm not
steady enough to freehand the probe tip into the connector to the correct
pin, especially if hitting the wrong pin or bridging two together might
have bad consequences.  <br><br>
At 08:19 AM 5/23/2024, [email-masked] wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>Steven</font>
<br><br>
<font size=2>Not sure this is the perfect solution to your problem, but
the power probe...</font> <br>
<font size=2 color="#0000FF"><a href="https://www.powerprobe.com/">
https://www.powerprobe.com/</a></font> <br>
<font size=2>can offer both +12vdc and -12vdc with one pin (among a
massive amount of other features.)</font> <br><br>
<font size=2>It ain't cheap, but it is an amazing tool that will help
with all electrical work on vehicles.</font> <br><br>
<font size=2>Moose</font> <br><br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
<font size=1 color="#5F5F5F">
From:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font><font size=1>Steven Trovato &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</font>
<br>
<font size=1 color="#5F5F5F">
To:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font><font size=1>[email-masked]</font> <br>
<font size=1 color="#5F5F5F">
Date:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font><font size=1>05/23/2024 12:54 AM</font> <br>
<font size=1 color="#5F5F5F">
Subject:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font><font size=1>[Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout
wires</font> <br>
<font size=1 color="#5F5F5F">Sent
by:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</font><font size=1>&quot;Shop-talk&quot;
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</font> <br>
<br>
<br><br>
<br>
<tt><font face="Courier New, Courier" size=2>I need access to the
individual pins in automotive <br>
connectors.&nbsp; Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
<br>
that work.&nbsp; But other times I need to actually reach into the <br>
connector and connect to a pin or socket.&nbsp; Most recently I was <br>
working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.&nbsp; I wanted
<br>
to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin
<br>
to actuate the motor.&nbsp; Switching the two makes the motor operate in
<br>
the other direction.&nbsp; That's how the running boards extend or <br>
retract.&nbsp; Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
<br>
unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with <br>
small alligator clips.&nbsp; That worked out, but if the pins had been
<br>
adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.&nbsp; I see there are some
<br>
breakout wire sets available like <br>
this: <br>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2">
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QXZ79J2</a>
. <br>
This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an <br>
oscilloscope, which is not my situation.&nbsp; There are also sets of
<br>
automotive pins available like this: <br>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3">
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=sr_1_3</a>
. <br>
I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.&nbsp; So, what do you guys
<br>
use for these situations?&nbsp; Of course next time it will probably be a
<br>
different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or <br>
shape.&nbsp; I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'd
<br>
like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.&nbsp; Have you found
<br>
something that works for you?&nbsp; Thanks.<br><br>
-Steve T.<br><br>
<br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 11:39:46 -0400

--===============8891247046109555563==

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If you're trying to connect with the connector unplugged, the "easiest"
thing to do might be to get some male and female pins and make jumper wires
with them .   Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the easy
solution.

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=E2=80=AFAM Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline=
.net>
wrote:

> connection to apply voltage and ground to run a motor.  I had the connect=
or
> open on my bench so I was looking for a kit to do "front probing" if that=
's
> a thing.
> Maybe something like this ...=C3=82
> https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psug=
g_q=3Dprobe
> .=C3=82
>
> On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato <[email-masked] >
> wrote:
> connectors.=C3=82  Sometimes there are other approaches like back probing
> that work.=C3=82  But other times I need to actually reach into the
> connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C3=82  Most recently I was
> working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C3=82  I wante=
d
> to actuate the motor.=C3=82  Switching the two makes the motor operate in
> the other direction.=C3=82  That's how the running boards extend or
> retract.=C3=82  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by an
> small alligator clips.=C3=82  That worked out, but if the pins had been
> adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.=C3=82  I see there are some
> https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B0=
7QXZ79J2
> oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C3=82  There are also sets of
> https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/d=
p/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3
> .
> I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C3=82  So, what do you guy=
s
> use for these situations?=C3=82  Of course next time it will probably be =
a
> shape.=C3=82  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but I'=
d
> like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C3=82  Have you foun=
d
> something that works for you?=C3=82  Thanks.
>
> -Steve T.
>
>
> --
> Suggested annual donation=C3=82  $12.96
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--00000000000009413d061920dda0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">If you&#39;re trying to connect with the connector unplugg=
ed, the &quot;easiest&quot; thing to do might be to get some male and femal=
e=C2=A0pins and make jumper wires with them .=C2=A0 =C2=A0Finding the corre=
ct pins is the hard part of the easy solution.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail=
_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=
=E2=80=AFAM Steven Trovato &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">st=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204=
);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
Yes, but back probing isn&#39;t always easy/possible on some of the more
weatherproof connectors and I don&#39;t know if I would make a good enough
connection to apply voltage and ground to run a motor.=C2=A0 I had the
connector open on my bench so I was looking for a kit to do &quot;front
probing&quot; if that&#39;s a thing.  <br><br>
At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">Maybe something like this ...=C3=82
<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html=
?_br_psugg_q=3Dprobe" target=3D"_blank">
https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_=
q=3Dprobe</a>
.=C3=82 <br><br>
On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">strovato@op=
tonline.net</a>
&gt; wrote:<br>

<dl>

</dd><dd>connectors.=C3=82=C2=A0 Sometimes there are other approaches like =
back
probing <br>

</dd><dd>that work.=C3=82=C2=A0 But other times I need to actually reach in=
to the
<br>

</dd><dd>connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C3=82=C2=A0 Most recentl=
y I was
<br>

</dd><dd>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C3=82=
=C2=A0 I
wanted <br>

</dd><dd>to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different =
pin
<br>

</dd><dd>to actuate the motor.=C3=82=C2=A0 Switching the two makes the moto=
r
operate in <br>

</dd><dd>the other direction.=C3=82=C2=A0 That&#39;s how the running boards=
 extend or
<br>

</dd><dd>retract.=C3=82=C2=A0 Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separ=
ated by
an <br>

</dd><dd>unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with
<br>

</dd><dd>small alligator clips.=C3=82=C2=A0 That worked out, but if the pin=
s had
been <br>

</dd><dd>adjacent I wouldn&#39;t have had enough room.=C3=82=C2=A0 I see th=
ere are some
<br>

</dd><dd>breakout wire sets available like <br>

</dd><dd>this: <br>

</dd><dd>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscillisc=
ope/dp/B07QXZ79J2" target=3D"_blank">
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07Q=
XZ79J2</a>
. <br>

</dd><dd>This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an <br>

</dd><dd>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C3=82=C2=A0 There are als=
o sets
of <br>

</dd><dd>automotive pins available like this: <br>

</dd><dd>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-=
Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3" target=3D"_blank">
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/=
B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3</a>
. <br>

</dd><dd>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C3=82=C2=A0 So, wha=
t do you
guys <br>

</dd><dd>use for these situations?=C3=82=C2=A0 Of course next time it will =
probably
be a <br>

</dd><dd>different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or <b=
r>

</dd><dd>shape.=C3=82=C2=A0 I am sure I won&#39;t have every possible size =
and type,
but I&#39;d <br>

</dd><dd>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C3=82=C2=A0 H=
ave you
found <br>

</dd><dd>something that works for you?=C3=82=C2=A0 Thanks.<br><br>

</dd><dd>-Steve T.<br><br>
<br>

</dd><dd>-- <br>

</dd><dd>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
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[email-masked]

--===============8891247046109555563==--

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 12:43:32 -0400 05/23/2024 12:43:39 PM, Serialize complete at 05/23/2024 12:43:39 PM

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============4460902655387729101==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 005BDFEA85258B26_=

Steven,

AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard and just buy 
both ends off of that connector.

Shouldn't be too expensive.

Moose
--=_alternative 005BDFEA85258B26_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Steven,</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">AH, now that I know what you are doing,
maybe hit a junkyard and just buy both ends off of that connector.</font>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Shouldn't be too expensive.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Moose</font>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]> mail.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:45:09 -0400

--===============8677283734971925554==
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Yes, that is what led me to something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/=
B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3
I'm just not sure how likely it will be to find 
the ones I need in a set like that.

At 11:39 AM 5/23/2024, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>If you're trying to connect with the connector 
>unplugged, the "easiest" thing to do might be to 
>get some male and female=C2 pins and make jumper 
>wires with them .=C2  =C2 Finding the correct pins 
>is the hard part of the easy solution.
>
>On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=E2=80=AFAM Steven 
>on some of the more weatherproof connectors and 
>I don't know if I would make a good enough 
>motor.=C2  I had the connector open on my bench so 
>I was looking for a kit to do "front probing" if that's a thing.
>
>><https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psu=
gg_q=3Dprobe>https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.ht=
ml?_br_psugg_q=3Dprobe 
>>connectors.=C3=82=C2  Sometimes there are other approaches like back prob=
ing
>>that work.=C3=82=C2  But other times I need to actually reach into the
>>connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C3=82=C2  Most recently I was
>>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C3=82=C2  I wa=
nted
>>to actuate the motor.=C3=82=C2  Switching the two makes the motor operate=
 in
>>the other direction.=C3=82=C2  That's how the running boards extend or
>>retract.=C3=82=C2  Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separated by a=
n
>>small alligator clips.=C3=82=C2  That worked out, but if the pins had bee=
n
>>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.=C3=82=C2  I see there are some
>><https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B=
07QXZ79J2>https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscillisco=
pe/dp/B07QXZ79J2 
>>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C3=82=C2  There are also sets of=

>><https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/=
dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3>https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automo=
tive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3 
>>.
>>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C3=82=C2  So, what do you =
guys
>>use for these situations?=C3=82=C2  Of course next time it will probably =
be a
>>shape.=C3=82=C2  I am sure I won't have every possible size and type, but=
 I'd
>>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C3=82=C2  Have you f=
ound
>>something that works for you?=C3=82=C2  Thanks.
>>-Steve T.
>>
>>--
>>Suggested annual donation=C3=82=C2  $12.96
>>Archive: 
>><http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>http://www.team.net/pipermail/sh=
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<body>
Yes, that is what led me to something like this: <br>
<a=
 href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Rem=
oval/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3" eudora=3D"autourl">
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B=
0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3</a>
<br>
I'm just not sure how likely it will be to find the ones I need in a set
like that.  <br><br>
At 11:39 AM 5/23/2024, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">If you're trying to connect w=
ith
the connector unplugged, the &quot;easiest&quot; thing to do might be to
get some male and female=C2 pins and make jumper wires with them .=C2&nbsp; =
=C2
Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the easy solution.<br><br>
On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=E2=80=AFAM Steven Trovato
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
&gt; wrote:<br>

<dl>
<dd>Yes, but back probing isn't always easy/possible on some of the more
weatherproof connectors and I don't know if I would make a good enough
connection to apply voltage and ground to run a motor.=C2&nbsp; I had the
connector open on my bench so I was looking for a kit to do &quot;front
probing&quot; if that's a thing. <br><br>

<dd>At 03:44 AM 5/23/2024, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">
<dd>Maybe something like this ...=C3=82
<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?=
_br_psugg_q=3Dprobe">
https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-kit-22-piece-70614.html?_br_psugg_q=
=3Dprobe</a>
 .=C3=82 <br><br>

<dd>On Wed, May 22, 2024, 11:59 PM Steven Trovato
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
&gt; wrote:
<dl>
<dd>I need access to the individual pins in automotive=20
<dd>connectors.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Sometimes there are other approaches like bac=
k
probing=20
<dd>that work.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; But other times I need to actually reach into=
 the=20
<dd>connector and connect to a pin or socket.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Most recently I
was=20
<dd>working on the power running boards on my Ford Expedition.=C3=82=C2&nbsp=
; I
wanted=20
<dd>to apply 12 Volts to one particular pin and ground to a different pin=20
<dd>to actuate the motor.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Switching the two makes the motor
operate in=20
<dd>the other direction.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; That's how the running boards extend=
 or=20
<dd>retract.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Fortunately, the two pins I needed were separate=
d
by an=20
<dd>unused pin location and I was able to use some jumper wires with=20
<dd>small alligator clips.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; That worked out, but if the pins h=
ad
been=20
<dd>adjacent I wouldn't have had enough room.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; I see there are
some=20
<dd>breakout wire sets available like=20
<dd>this:=20
<dd>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscillisco=
pe/dp/B07QXZ79J2">
https://www.amazon.com/HT306-Breakout-Leads-Diagnostic-Oscilliscope/dp/B07QX=
Z79J2</a>
 .=20
<dd>This particular one seems to be designed to connect to an=20
<dd>oscilloscope, which is not my situation.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; There are also s=
ets
of=20
<dd>automotive pins available like this:=20
<dd>
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-R=
emoval/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3">
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B=
0CRR3GGF1/ref=3Dsr_1_3</a>
 .=20
<dd>I suppose I could make my own wires as needed.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; So, what d=
o
you guys=20
<dd>use for these situations?=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Of course next time it will
probably be a=20
<dd>different car and pins will probably be a different size and/or=20
<dd>shape.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; I am sure I won't have every possible size and typ=
e,
but I'd=20
<dd>like to be able to cover a lot of the possibilities.=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Have
you found=20
<dd>something that works for you?=C3=82=C2&nbsp; Thanks.<br>

<dd>-Steve T.<br>
<br>

<dd>--=20
<dd>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]> mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:54:49 -0400

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I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a 
wiring harness and component for a few dollars.  The would rather 
sell the whole component and or harness.  In fact, they'd rather not 
spend any time or energy at all on something like this.  Maybe if you 
do a lot of business with them and develop a relationship they might 
be more willing. BTW, I have already solved the problem with my 
running board.  I was just looking to be better prepared the next 
time something like this comes up.  Thanks.

At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024, [email-masked] wrote:
>Steven,
>
>AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard and 
>just buy both ends off of that connector.
>
>

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I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a wiring
harness and component for a few dollars.&nbsp; The would rather sell the
whole component and or harness.&nbsp; In fact, they'd rather not spend
any time or energy at all on something like this.&nbsp; Maybe if you do a
lot of business with them and develop a relationship they might be more
willing. BTW, I have already solved the problem with my running
board.&nbsp; I was just looking to be better prepared the next time
something like this comes up.&nbsp; Thanks. <br><br>
At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024, [email-masked] wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>Steven,</font>
<br><br>
<font size=2>AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard
and just buy both ends off of that connector.</font> <br><br>
<br>
<font size=2>Shouldn't be too expensive.</font> <br><br>
<font size=2>Moose</font> </blockquote><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br /><table style="border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;"><tr><td style="width: 55px; padding-top: 13px;"><a href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient" target="_blank"><img src="https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" alt="" width="46" height="29" style="width: 46px; height: 29px;"/></a></td><td style="width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-free.<a href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient" target="_blank" style="color: #4453ea;">www.avast.com</a></td></tr></table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"> </a></div></body>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Paul Parkanzky <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 14:45:34 -0400

--===============6585838061254457933==

--0000000000007bff97061923759c
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We have "U-Pull-It" style junk yards around here. If you go to one of those
you wander the lot with your own bag/small cart of tools and pretty much
attack the cars at-will. They have price lists for whatever it is you bring
back to the gate. Not sure what they'd charge for connectors with pigtails
on them but I would expect it to be very little.

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 2:34=E2=80=AFPM Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.=
net>
wrote:

> harness and component for a few dollars.  The would rather sell the whole
> component and or harness.  In fact, they'd rather not spend any time or
> energy at all on something like this.  Maybe if you do a lot of business
> with them and develop a relationship they might be more willing. BTW, I
> have already solved the problem with my running board.  I was just lookin=
g
> to be better prepared the next time something like this comes up.  Thanks=
.
> <#m_5536667405124813571_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000007bff97061923759c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">We have &quot;U-Pull-It&quot; style junk yards around here=
. If you go to one of those you wander the lot with your own bag/small cart=
 of tools and pretty much attack the cars at-will. They have price lists fo=
r whatever it is you bring back to the gate. Not sure what they&#39;d charg=
e for connectors with pigtails on them but I would expect it to be very lit=
tle.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_at=
tr">On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 2:34=E2=80=AFPM Steven Trovato &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></di=
v><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;borde=
r-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a wiring
harness and component for a few dollars.=C2=A0 The would rather sell the
whole component and or harness.=C2=A0 In fact, they&#39;d rather not spend
any time or energy at all on something like this.=C2=A0 Maybe if you do a
lot of business with them and develop a relationship they might be more
willing. BTW, I have already solved the problem with my running
board.=C2=A0 I was just looking to be better prepared the next time
something like this comes up.=C2=A0 Thanks. <br><br>
At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><font size=3D"2">Steven,</font>
<br><br>
<font size=3D"2">AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkya=
rd
and just buy both ends off of that connector.</font> <br><br>
<br>
<font size=3D"2">Shouldn&#39;t be too expensive.</font> <br><br>
<font size=3D"2">Moose</font> </blockquote><div id=3D"m_5536667405124813571=
DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br><table style=3D"border-top:1px so=
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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[email-masked]

--===============6585838061254457933==--

---

From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 13:56:06 -0500

--===============8785742869049635606==

--000000000000322ec20619239bc9
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On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=E2=80=AFAM Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]=
om>
wrote:

> thing to do might be to get some male and female pins and make jumper wir=
es
> with them .   Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the easy
If you can figure out which ones you need, getting the right pins is easy,
and even real OEM ones are usually pretty cheap.  The problem is there are
lots of choices, and they all require their own crimping dies, so it's hard
to keep them on hand just in case. For testing, you can probably get away
with the wrong tool, or soldering them on.  But if you're repairing a
connector, you want the right crimper; poorly crimped pins and socket ends
are a source of maddening intermittent failures and risk deciding a part
has failed when it's just the wire end that's bad.

One very real advantage of using the right pins is you can get a good sense
if you have a pin fit problem, which causes failures, often intermittent.
hard to do that with a probe or stick pin.

--=20
David Scheidt
[email-masked]

--000000000000322ec20619239bc9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=E2=80=
=AFAM Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">fishplate@=
gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">If you&#39;re trying to connect with the connec=
tor unplugged, the &quot;easiest&quot; thing to do might be to get some mal=
e and female=C2=A0pins and make jumper wires with them .=C2=A0 =C2=A0Findin=
g the correct pins is the hard part of the easy solution.</div><br></blockq=
uote><div><br></div><div>If you can figure out which ones you need, getting=
 the right pins is easy, and even real OEM ones are usually pretty cheap.=
=C2=A0 The problem is there are lots of choices, and they all require their=
 own crimping dies, so it&#39;s hard to keep them on hand just in case. For=
 testing, you can probably get away with the wrong tool, or soldering them =
on.=C2=A0 But if you&#39;re repairing a connector, you want the right crimp=
er; poorly crimped pins and socket ends are a source of maddening intermitt=
ent failures and risk deciding a part has failed when it&#39;s just the wir=
e end that&#39;s bad.=C2=A0 <br></div><div><br></div><div>One very real adv=
antage of using the right pins is you can get a good sense if you have a pi=
n fit problem, which causes failures, often intermittent.=C2=A0 hard to do =
that with a probe or stick pin.=C2=A0 <br></div><br></div><span class=3D"gm=
ail_signature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signatu=
re">David Scheidt<br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a></div></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============8785742869049635606==--

---

From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 14:06:48 -0500

--===============0228777798148697152==

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On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 1:29=E2=80=AFPM Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.=
net>

g
.

cutting the ends of wires is something that's done all the time at  the
u-pull it places.  Grabbing that running board motor?  cut the harness off
two or three feet back, etc.    I've made trips to yards -- on the
customer's dime -- to pull wiring sub-harnesses out of cars.  Cheaper to do
that, even at shop rates, than buy a new one sometimes.

--=20
David Scheidt
[email-masked]

--0000000000006f8809061923c13e
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 1:29=E2=80=AF=
PM Steven Trovato &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">strovato@op=
tonline.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex">
<div>
I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a wiring
harness and component for a few dollars.=C2=A0 The would rather sell the
whole component and or harness.=C2=A0 In fact, they&#39;d rather not spend
any time or energy at all on something like this.=C2=A0 Maybe if you do a
lot of business with them and develop a relationship they might be more
willing. BTW, I have already solved the problem with my running
board.=C2=A0 I was just looking to be better prepared the next time
something like this comes up.=C2=A0 Thanks. <br></div></blockquote><div><br=
></div><div>cutting the ends of wires is something that&#39;s done all the =
time at=C2=A0 the u-pull it places.=C2=A0 Grabbing that running board motor=
?=C2=A0 cut the harness off two or three feet back, etc. =C2=A0=C2=A0 I&#39=
;ve made trips to yards -- on the customer&#39;s dime -- to pull wiring sub=
-harnesses out of cars.=C2=A0 Cheaper to do that, even at shop rates, than =
buy a new one sometimes.=C2=A0 <br></div><div>=C2=A0<br></div></div><span c=
lass=3D"gmail_signature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gma=
il_signature">David Scheidt<br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" targe=
t=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]> mail.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2024 16:13:24 -0400

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Right.  I don't have one of those near 
me.  Honestly, I don't know how it is possible 
that these still exist.  In a world dominated by 
lawyers and insurance companies I would think the 
risks would be too great.  "No customers allowed 
beyond this point" in the shop, but sure, go 
wander around on your own in this field full of 
sharp things and precariously balanced big heavy 
things.  What could go wrong?  Of course, I still wish there was one near h=
ere.

At 02:45 PM 5/23/2024, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>We have "U-Pull-It" style junk yards around 
>here. If you go to one of those you wander the 
>lot with your own bag/small cart of tools and 
>pretty much attack the cars at-will. They have 
>price lists for whatever it is you bring back to 
>the gate. Not sure what they'd charge for 
>connectors with pigtails on them but I would expect it to be very little.
>
>On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 2:34=E2=80=AFPM Steven Trovato 
>I have not found junk yards to be very 
>interested in damaging a wiring harness and 
>component for a few dollars.=C2  The would rather 
>sell the whole component and or harness.=C2  In 
>fact, they'd rather not spend any time or energy 
>at all on something like this.=C2  Maybe if you do 
>a lot of business with them and develop a 
>relationship they might be more willing. BTW, I 
>have already solved the problem with my running 
>board.=C2  I was just looking to be better 
>prepared the next time something like this comes up.=C2  Thanks.
>
>>Steven,
>>
>>AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe 
>>hit a junkyard and just buy both ends off of that connector.
>>
>>
p-talk 
><http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]>http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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<body>
Right.&nbsp; I don't have one of those near me.&nbsp; Honestly, I don't
know how it is possible that these still exist.&nbsp; In a world
dominated by lawyers and insurance companies I would think the risks
would be too great.&nbsp; &quot;No customers allowed beyond this
point&quot; in the shop, but sure, go wander around on your own in this
field full of sharp things and precariously balanced big heavy
things.&nbsp; What could go wrong?&nbsp; Of course, I still wish there
was one near here.<br><br>
At 02:45 PM 5/23/2024, Paul Parkanzky wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">We have &quot;U-Pull-It&quot;
style junk yards around here. If you go to one of those you wander the
lot with your own bag/small cart of tools and pretty much attack the cars
at-will. They have price lists for whatever it is you bring back to the
gate. Not sure what they'd charge for connectors with pigtails on them
but I would expect it to be very little.<br><br>
On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 2:34=E2=80=AFPM Steven Trovato
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
&gt; wrote:<br>

<dl>
<dd>I have not found junk yards to be very interested in damaging a
wiring harness and component for a few dollars.=C2&nbsp; The would rather
sell the whole component and or harness.=C2&nbsp; In fact, they'd rather
not spend any time or energy at all on something like this.=C2&nbsp; Maybe
if you do a lot of business with them and develop a relationship they
might be more willing. BTW, I have already solved the problem with my
running board.=C2&nbsp; I was just looking to be better prepared the next
time something like this comes up.=C2&nbsp; Thanks. <br><br>

<dd>At 12:43 PM 5/23/2024,
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">
<dd>Steven, <br><br>

<dd>AH, now that I know what you are doing, maybe hit a junkyard and just
buy both ends off of that connector. <br><br>
<br>

<dd>Shouldn't be too expensive. <br><br>

<dd>Moose </blockquote><br>

<dd>
<a href=3D"#m_5536667405124813571_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>

<dd>Donate:

<dd>Archive:

<dd>Unsubscribe/Manage:
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]=
om">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Kent Sullivan" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2024 20:23:29 -0700

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David, agreed=E2=80=94that=E2=80=99s been my personal experience.

=20

Group=E2=80=94I recently have been working on a custom automotive =
project that has brought me into contact with all of these terminal =
types:

*	Packard 56 open barrel (Delco-Packard --> Delphi --> Aptiv)
*	Packard 59 (specifically Twin Lock)
*	Metri-Pack
*	Weather-Pack
*	Powerpole (Anderson)
*	Deutsch

=20

I=E2=80=99m happy to try to help anyone on the list who is trying to =
identify terminals / shells or etc. I have had some success tracking =
down crimping tools as well.

=20

FWIW, I have rapidly become a BIG fan of the Deutsch setup. Easier to =
work with (easier to crimp, easier to revise) and physically smaller =
than Weather-Pack.

=20

--Kent

=20

From: Shop-talk <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of David =
Scheidt
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2024 11:56 AM
To: shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] automotive connector breakout wires

=20

=20

=20

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21=E2=80=AFAM Jeff Scarbrough =

If you're trying to connect with the connector unplugged, the "easiest" =
thing to do might be to get some male and female pins and make jumper =
wires with them .   Finding the correct pins is the hard part of the =
easy solution.

=20

=20

If you can figure out which ones you need, getting the right pins is =
easy, and even real OEM ones are usually pretty cheap.  The problem is =
there are lots of choices, and they all require their own crimping dies, =
so it's hard to keep them on hand just in case. For testing, you can =
probably get away with the wrong tool, or soldering them on.  But if =
you're repairing a connector, you want the right crimper; poorly crimped =
pins and socket ends are a source of maddening intermittent failures and =
risk deciding a part has failed when it's just the wire end that's bad.  =

=20

One very real advantage of using the right pins is you can get a good =
sense if you have a pin fit problem, which causes failures, often =
intermittent.  hard to do that with a probe or stick pin. =20

=20

--=20

David Scheidt

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'>Davi=
d, agreed=E2=80=94that=E2=80=99s been my personal =
experience.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'>Grou=
p=E2=80=94I recently have been working on a custom automotive project =
that has brought me into contact with all of these terminal =
types:<o:p></o:p></span></p><ul style=3D'margin-top:0in' type=3Ddisc><li =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'color:blue;margin-left:0in;mso-list:l0 =
level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Packard 56 =
open barrel (Delco-Packard </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>=C3=A0</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> Delphi =
</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>=C3=A0</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'> =
Aptiv)<o:p></o:p></span></li><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'color:blue;margin-left:0in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Packard 59 =
(specifically Twin Lock)<o:p></o:p></span></li><li =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'color:blue;margin-left:0in;mso-list:l0 =
level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Metri-Pack<o:p>=
</o:p></span></li><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'color:blue;margin-left:0in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Weather-Pack<o:=
p></o:p></span></li><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'color:blue;margin-left:0in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Powerpole =
(Anderson)<o:p></o:p></span></li><li class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'color:blue;margin-left:0in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Deutsch<o:p></o=
:p></span></li></ul><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'>I=E2=
=80=99m happy to try to help anyone on the list who is trying to =
identify terminals / shells or etc. I have had some success tracking =
down crimping tools as well.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'>FWIW=
, I have rapidly become a BIG fan of the Deutsch setup. Easier to work =
with (easier to crimp, easier to revise) and physically smaller than =
Weather-Pack.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'>--Ke=
nt<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:blue'><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid =
#E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>David Scheidt<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, May 23, 2024 11:56 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> shop-talk =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] =
automotive connector breakout wires<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Thu, May 23, 2024 at 11:21<span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>=E2=80=AF</span>AM Jeff =
Scarbrough &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>If =
you're trying to connect with the connector unplugged, the =
&quot;easiest&quot; thing to do might be to get some male and =
female&nbsp;pins and make jumper wires with them .&nbsp; &nbsp;Finding =
the correct pins is the hard part of the easy =
solution.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>If you can figure out which ones you need, getting the =
right pins is easy, and even real OEM ones are usually pretty =
cheap.&nbsp; The problem is there are lots of choices, and they all =
require their own crimping dies, so it's hard to keep them on hand just =
in case. For testing, you can probably get away with the wrong tool, or =
soldering them on.&nbsp; But if you're repairing a connector, you want =
the right crimper; poorly crimped pins and socket ends are a source of =
maddening intermittent failures and risk deciding a part has failed when =
it's just the wire end that's bad.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>One very real advantage of using the right pins is you =
can get a good sense if you have a pin fit problem, which causes =
failures, often intermittent.&nbsp; hard to do that with a probe or =
stick pin.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
class=3Dgmailsignatureprefix>-- </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>David Scheidt<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div=
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[email-masked]

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