Subject: [Shop-talk] Etching bare metal

From: Jim Stone <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2022 16:19:23 -0500

--===============7356941734674147168==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_F14D01CC-101D-40B8-A13E-6366995C9617"

--Apple-Mail=_F14D01CC-101D-40B8-A13E-6366995C9617
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

The last time I painted a car was in the 1980=E2=80=99s, which I=E2=80=99m=
 pretty sure is before the invention of self-etching primer.  If it was =
around then, I didn=E2=80=99t know about it.  I learned everything I =
knew from reading DIY books and used a phosphoric acid solution to etch =
bare metal before priming.  I haven=E2=80=99t heard of anyone doing that =
anymore, but need to prime a trunk lid and am thinking it might be worth =
a phosphoric acid wash first.  I had the lid dipped about 10 years ago =
and it was left untreated all this time.  (Not by me, but that is a =
different and longer story.)  The lid has been sitting on the car and =
the underside still looks nearly perfect.  The car with has always been =
garaged but the top had a light coating of rust.  I=E2=80=99ve removed =
that now but there are some pits here and there (probably from before =
the dipping) and I would like to be 100% sure it is rust free before =
priming it. =20

I have a gallon of this sitting around: =
https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKPA30220-Gallon-Phosphoric/dp/B00945D1=
5I =
<https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKPA30220-Gallon-Phosphoric/dp/B00945D=
15I>  Is there any reason not to wash the surface with a diluted =
solution before priming?  Or, should I just use something like =
Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer =
(https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/removers-a=
nd-chemicals/rust-reformer-spray/ =
<https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/removers-a=
nd-chemicals/rust-reformer-spray/>) and call it a day?=

--Apple-Mail=_F14D01CC-101D-40B8-A13E-6366995C9617
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">The =
last time I painted a car was in the 1980=E2=80=99s, which I=E2=80=99m =
pretty sure is before the invention of self-etching primer. &nbsp;If it =
was around then, I didn=E2=80=99t know about it. &nbsp;I learned =
everything I knew from reading DIY books and used a phosphoric acid =
solution to etch bare metal before priming. &nbsp;I haven=E2=80=99t =
heard of anyone doing that anymore, but need to prime a trunk lid and am =
thinking it might be worth a phosphoric acid wash first. &nbsp;I had the =
lid dipped about 10 years ago and it was left untreated all this time. =
&nbsp;(Not by me, but that is a different and longer story.) &nbsp;The =
lid has been sitting on the car and the underside still looks nearly =
perfect. &nbsp;The car with has always been garaged but the top had a =
light coating of rust. &nbsp;I=E2=80=99ve removed that now but there are =
some pits here and there (probably from before the dipping) and I would =
like to be 100% sure it is rust free before priming it. &nbsp;<div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I have a gallon of this =
sitting around: <a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKPA30220-Gallon-Phosphoric/dp/=
B00945D15I" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKPA30220-Gallon-Phosphoric/=
dp/B00945D15I</a> &nbsp;Is there any reason not to wash the surface with =
a diluted solution before priming? &nbsp;Or, should I just use something =
like&nbsp;<span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: rgb(34, =
34, 34); font-family: &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, Helvetica, Arial;" =
class=3D"">Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer (</span><a =
href=3D"https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/rem=
overs-and-chemicals/rust-reformer-spray/" =
class=3D"">https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/=
removers-and-chemicals/rust-reformer-spray/</a>) and call it a =
day?</div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_F14D01CC-101D-40B8-A13E-6366995C9617--

--===============7356941734674147168==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

--===============7356941734674147168==--

---

From: John Innis <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2022 16:02:11 -0600

--===============1421566263008946827==

--0000000000000647ce05ed6147f1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I often use phosphoric acid to clean and de-rust fuel tanks before coating
with an epoxy sealer.  I find it works great for getting ALL that last rust
out and etching the surface nicely.  As I am sure you recall, you must
clean and paint immediately.  Steel etched with acid will be highly
susceptible to corrosion if not coated right away.  I like to clean with
water to neutralize the acid then immediately rinse with solvent to get rid
of the water.  Denatured alcohol works great to dry the water, but might
not be compatible with all types of primer.

On Sun, Nov 13, 2022 at 3:31 PM Jim Stone <[email-masked]> wrote:

> The last time I painted a car was in the 1980=E2=80=99s, which I=E2=80=99=
m pretty sure is
> before the invention of self-etching primer.  If it was around then, I
> didn=E2=80=99t know about it.  I learned everything I knew from reading D=
IY books
> and used a phosphoric acid solution to etch bare metal before priming.  I
> haven=E2=80=99t heard of anyone doing that anymore, but need to prime a t=
runk lid
> and am thinking it might be worth a phosphoric acid wash first.  I had th=
e
> lid dipped about 10 years ago and it was left untreated all this time.
>  (Not by me, but that is a different and longer story.)  The lid has been
> sitting on the car and the underside still looks nearly perfect.  The car
> with has always been garaged but the top had a light coating of rust.  I=
=E2=80=99ve
> removed that now but there are some pits here and there (probably from
> before the dipping) and I would like to be 100% sure it is rust free befo=
re
> priming it.
>
> I have a gallon of this sitting around:
> https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKPA30220-Gallon-Phosphoric/dp/B00945D=
15I
>  Is there any reason not to wash the surface with a diluted solution befo=
re
> priming?  Or, should I just use something like Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer (
> https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/removers-a=
nd-chemicals/rust-reformer-spray/)
> and call it a day?
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

--=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--0000000000000647ce05ed6147f1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I often use phosphoric acid to clean and de-rust fuel tank=
s before coating with an epoxy sealer.=C2=A0 I find it works great for gett=
ing ALL that last rust out and etching the surface nicely.=C2=A0 As I am su=
re you recall, you must clean and paint immediately.=C2=A0 Steel etched wit=
h acid will be highly susceptible to corrosion if not coated right=C2=A0awa=
y.=C2=A0 I like to clean with water to neutralize the acid then immediately=
 rinse with solvent to get rid of the water.=C2=A0 Denatured alcohol works =
great to dry the water, but might not be compatible with all types of prime=
r.=C2=A0 <br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 13, 2022 at 3:31 PM Jim Stone &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"overflow-wrap: br=
eak-word;">The last time I painted a car was in the 1980=E2=80=99s, which I=
=E2=80=99m pretty sure is before the invention of self-etching primer.=C2=
=A0 If it was around then, I didn=E2=80=99t know about it.=C2=A0 I learned =
everything I knew from reading DIY books and used a phosphoric acid solutio=
n to etch bare metal before priming.=C2=A0 I haven=E2=80=99t heard of anyon=
e doing that anymore, but need to prime a trunk lid and am thinking it migh=
t be worth a phosphoric acid wash first.=C2=A0 I had the lid dipped about 1=
0 years ago and it was left untreated all this time. =C2=A0(Not by me, but =
that is a different and longer story.) =C2=A0The lid has been sitting on th=
e car and the underside still looks nearly perfect.=C2=A0 The car with has =
always been garaged but the top had a light coating of rust.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=
=99ve removed that now but there are some pits here and there (probably fro=
m before the dipping) and I would like to be 100% sure it is rust free befo=
re priming it. =C2=A0<div><br></div><div>I have a gallon of this sitting ar=
ound: <a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKPA30220-Gallon-Phosph=
oric/dp/B00945D15I" target=3D"_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GK=
PA30220-Gallon-Phosphoric/dp/B00945D15I</a> =C2=A0Is there any reason not t=
o wash the surface with a diluted solution before priming?=C2=A0 Or, should=
 I just use something like=C2=A0<span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-fam=
ily:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetica,Arial">Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer (<=
/span><a href=3D"https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/=
auto/removers-and-chemicals/rust-reformer-spray/" target=3D"_blank">https:/=
/www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/removers-and-chemic=
als/rust-reformer-spray/</a>) and call it a day?</div></div>_______________=
________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with =
style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro=
wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>

--0000000000000647ce05ed6147f1--

--===============1421566263008946827==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============1421566263008946827==--