Subject: [Shop-talk] Finding a Blown Fuse (Automotive)

From: Eric Russell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 19:15:13 -0500

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Oh wise & beneficent Shop Talkers - I've run into a situation that has me
stymied. I need help locating a blown fuse in a motorhome.

We recently bought a new (to us) motorhome. When installing the signal
booster for a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) I accidentally shorted
a 12V wire in the cargo bay lights. There was a small spark (followed by a
few swear words). I then went on a hunt for the blown fuse. There are three
fuse panels in this motorhome. Two in the Ford chassis (F-53) - one under
the hood and the other inside near the parking brake - plus one in the
motorhome's 120V - 12V power converter. I could not find a blown fuse
anywhere.

I contacted the manufacturer (Thor) who has actually been quite responsive
& has tried to help. After asking for my vehicle's VIN they emailed me some
schematics (not actual wire diagrams but more a map showing the general
location of outlets, switches, etc with indications of which circuit they
belong to). There are two schematics that appear to apply to my motorhome -
one indicates the cargo lights are connected to the Ford panel by the
parking brake, another indicates they are in circuit #6 of the converter's
12V panel. Neither of those fuses are blown. While there I checked all the
fuses I could locate - none were blown. I've also signed up to a couple of
motorhome forums but have not been able to find an answer there.

Finally - my plea for help - is there any device one can use to trace where
a circuit originates? I've seen an electrician use a device to find out
what outlet goes to which breaker in our house.

I've followed the hot wire from the cargo bay light back to where it enters
a wire harness along the motorhome's frame rail. I'm loath to rip open the
wire harness trying to chase the wire further upstream. As far as I can
tell there is nothing else in this circuit - everything else is working
properly. Of course I can live without cargo bay lights but it bothers my
OCD to have it not working (when I know it did before my screw up).

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Oh wise &amp; beneficent Shop Talkers - I&#39;ve run into =
a situation that has me stymied. I need help locating a blown fuse in a mot=
orhome.=C2=A0<div><br></div><div>We recently bought a new (to us) motorhome=
. When installing the signal booster for a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring S=
ystem) I accidentally=C2=A0shorted a 12V wire in the cargo bay lights. Ther=
e was a small spark (followed by a few swear words). I then went on a hunt =
for the blown fuse. There are three fuse panels in this motorhome. Two in t=
he Ford chassis (F-53) - one under the hood and the other inside near the p=
arking brake - plus one in the motorhome&#39;s 120V - 12V power converter. =
I could not find a blown fuse anywhere.=C2=A0<div><br></div><div>I contacte=
d the manufacturer (Thor) who has actually been quite responsive &amp; has =
tried to help. After asking for my vehicle&#39;s VIN they emailed me some s=
chematics (not actual wire diagrams but more a map showing the general loca=
tion of outlets, switches, etc with indications of which circuit they belon=
g to). There are two schematics that appear to apply to my motorhome - one =
indicates the cargo lights are connected to the Ford panel by the parking b=
rake, another indicates they are in circuit #6 of the converter&#39;s 12V p=
anel. Neither of those fuses are blown. While there I checked all the fuses=
 I could locate - none were blown. I&#39;ve also signed up to a couple of m=
otorhome forums but have not been able to find an answer there.=C2=A0</div>=
<div><br></div><div>Finally - my plea for help - is there any device one ca=
n use to trace where a circuit originates? I&#39;ve seen an electrician use=
 a device to find out what outlet goes to which breaker in our house.</div>=
<div><br></div><div>I&#39;ve followed the hot wire from the cargo bay light=
 back to where it enters a wire harness along the motorhome&#39;s frame rai=
l. I&#39;m loath to rip open the wire harness trying to chase the wire furt=
her upstream. As far as I can tell there is nothing else in this circuit - =
everything else is working properly. Of course I can live without cargo bay=
 lights but it bothers my OCD to have it not working (when I know it did be=
fore my screw up).=C2=A0<br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Eric Russell<div>Mebane, NC</div></div></div></div></div></div>

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_______________________________________________

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 17:27:20 -0600

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The bcc is an an RV Custom Products product, installed by the converter.  So=
me of them were recalled, check that yours wasn=E2=80=99t, or the repair was=
 done. Failure was total loss of power to anything not installed in the chas=
sis maker=E2=80=99s factory.=20

> On Nov 11, 2021, at 17:00, Eric Russell <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Correction - the hidden in plain view fuse was labeled F31. That designati=
on was never mentioned in any of my emails with Thor or their schematics. I d=
o not know if this part was installed by Thor or some aftermarket modificati=
on.=20
>=20
> EjR=20
>=20
>=20
>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:51 PM Eric Russell <[email-masked]> wrot=
e:
>> So, the blown fuse turned out to be an I-D-10-T issue. When I crawled up u=
nder the hood of the new (to us) motorhome to change the oil (they do not ma=
ke this an easy task...) I noticed a box way over on the left side labeled "=
Battery Control Center (Fuses Inside)". And buried therein was fuse # F17 'C=
argo Lights'. Which indeed was blown. Maybe Thor (the motorhome manufacturer=
) was trying to tell me to check there - but I clearly described the place I=
 had checked was the Ford "Power Distribution Box".=20
>>=20
>> EjR=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 8:57 AM Eric Russell <[email-masked]> wro=
te:
>>> Thanks for the replies. It may be a week or more before I gather the ene=
rgy to search for the fault again. I've already wasted two afternoons and ha=
ve other more important things to do (getting ready to go racing in VRG's Tu=
rkey Bowl at Summit Point, WV). The idea of using a tone generating tool is i=
nteresting. Horrible Fright has a $25 version - I may give that a try.=20
>>>=20
>>> EjR=20
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 8:12 AM John <[email-masked]> wrote:=

>>>> How about a GFCI outlet that has tripped?
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> On 11/10/2021 7:15 PM, Eric Russell wrote:
>>>>> Oh wise & beneficent Shop Talkers - I've run into a situation that has=
 me stymied. I need help locating a blown fuse in a motorhome.=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>> We recently bought a new (to us) motorhome. When installing the signal=
 booster for a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) I accidentally shorted=
 a 12V wire in the cargo bay lights. There was a small spark (followed by a f=
ew swear words). I then went on a hunt for the blown fuse. There are three f=
use panels in this motorhome. Two in the Ford chassis (F-53) - one under the=
 hood and the other inside near the parking brake - plus one in the motorhom=
e's 120V - 12V power converter. I could not find a blown fuse anywhere.=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>> I contacted the manufacturer (Thor) who has actually been quite respon=
sive & has tried to help. After asking for my vehicle's VIN they emailed me s=
ome schematics (not actual wire diagrams but more a map showing the general l=
ocation of outlets, switches, etc with indications of which circuit they bel=
ong to). There are two schematics that appear to apply to my motorhome - one=
 indicates the cargo lights are connected to the Ford panel by the parking b=
rake, another indicates they are in circuit #6 of the converter's 12V panel.=
 Neither of those fuses are blown. While there I checked all the fuses I cou=
ld locate - none were blown. I've also signed up to a couple of motorhome fo=
rums but have not been able to find an answer there.=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>> Finally - my plea for help - is there any device one can use to trace w=
here a circuit originates? I've seen an electrician use a device to find out=
 what outlet goes to which breaker in our house.
>>>>>=20
>>>>> I've followed the hot wire from the cargo bay light back to where it e=
nters a wire harness along the motorhome's frame rail. I'm loath to rip open=
 the wire harness trying to chase the wire further upstream. As far as I can=
 tell there is nothing else in this circuit - everything else is working pro=
perly. Of course I can live without cargo bay lights but it bothers my OCD t=
o have it not working (when I know it did before my screw up).=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>> --=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>>=20
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net=
/archive
>>>>>=20
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jb=
[email-masked]
>>>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/=
archive
>>>>=20
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejr=
[email-masked]
>>>>=20
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> --=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> --=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmsche=
[email-masked]
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr">The bcc is an an RV Custom=
 Products product, installed by the converter. &nbsp;Some of them were recal=
led, check that yours wasn=E2=80=99t, or the repair was done. Failure was to=
tal loss of power to anything not installed in the chassis maker=E2=80=99s f=
actory.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 11, 2021, at 17:00, Eric R=
ussell &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><block=
quote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr">Correction - t=
he hidden in plain view fuse was labeled F31. That designation was never men=
tioned in any of my emails with Thor or their schematics. I do not know if t=
his part was installed by Thor or some aftermarket modification.&nbsp;<div><=
br></div><div>EjR&nbsp;</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:51 PM E=
ric Russell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
om</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin=
:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">=
<div dir=3D"ltr">So, the blown fuse turned out to be an I-D-10-T issue. When=
 I crawled up under the hood of the&nbsp;new (to us) motorhome to change the=
 oil (they do not make this an easy task...) I noticed a box way over on the=
 left side labeled "Battery Control Center (Fuses Inside)". And buried there=
in was fuse # F17 'Cargo Lights'. Which indeed was blown. Maybe Thor (the mo=
torhome manufacturer) was trying to tell me to check there - but I clearly d=
escribed the place I had checked was the Ford "Power Distribution Box".&nbsp=
;<div><br></div><div>EjR&nbsp;</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"g=
mail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 8:=
57 AM Eric Russell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,20=
4,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks for the replies. It may be a=
 week or more before I gather the energy to search for the fault again. I've=
 already wasted two afternoons and have other more important things to do (g=
etting ready to go racing in VRG's Turkey Bowl at Summit Point, WV). The ide=
a of using a tone generating tool is interesting. Horrible Fright has a $25 v=
ersion - I may give that a try.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>EjR&nbsp;</div><div=
><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gm=
ail_attr">On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 8:12 AM John &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jbach@s=
wiftrecruiters.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.=
8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>How about a GFCI outlet that has tripped?</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div>On 11/10/2021 7:15 PM, Eric Russell
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Oh wise &amp; beneficent Shop Talkers - I've run
        into a situation that has me stymied. I need help locating a
        blown fuse in a motorhome.&nbsp;
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>We recently bought a new (to us) motorhome. When installing
          the signal booster for a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring
          System) I accidentally&nbsp;shorted a 12V wire in the cargo bay
          lights. There was a small spark (followed by a few swear
          words). I then went on a hunt for the blown fuse. There are
          three fuse panels in this motorhome. Two in the Ford chassis
          (F-53) - one under the hood and the other inside near the
          parking brake - plus one in the motorhome's 120V - 12V power
          converter. I could not find a blown fuse anywhere.&nbsp;
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>I contacted the manufacturer (Thor) who has actually been
            quite responsive &amp; has tried to help. After asking for
            my vehicle's VIN they emailed me some schematics (not actual
            wire diagrams but more a map showing the general location of
            outlets, switches, etc with indications of which circuit
            they belong to). There are two schematics that appear to
            apply to my motorhome - one indicates the cargo lights are
            connected to the Ford panel by the parking brake, another
            indicates they are in circuit #6 of the converter's 12V
            panel. Neither of those fuses are blown. While there I
            checked all the fuses I could locate - none were blown. I've
            also signed up to a couple of motorhome forums but have not
            been able to find an answer there.&nbsp;</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Finally - my plea for help - is there any device one can
            use to trace where a circuit originates? I've seen an
            electrician use a device to find out what outlet goes to
            which breaker in our house.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>I've followed the hot wire from the cargo bay light back
            to where it enters a wire harness along the motorhome's
            frame rail. I'm loath to rip open the wire harness trying to
            chase the wire further upstream. As far as I can tell there
            is nothing else in this circuit - everything else is working
            properly. Of course I can live without cargo bay lights but
            it bothers my OCD to have it not working (when I know it did
            before my screw up).&nbsp;<br clear=3D"all">
            <div><br>
            </div>
            -- <br>
            <div dir=3D"ltr">
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Eric Russell
                <div>Mebane, NC</div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
      <pre>_______________________________________________

<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@auto=
x.team.net</a>
/www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" target=3D"_blan=
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lk/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailma=
n/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@auto=
x.team.net</a><br>
t=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"noreferr=
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lk/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div dir=3D"ltr">Eric Russell<div>Mebane, NC</div></div></div>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div dir=3D"ltr">Eric Russell<div>Mebane, NC</div></div></div>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" c=
lass=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Eric Russell<div>Mebane, NC</div><=
/div></div>
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>[email-masked]</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.=
net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span=
><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.tea=
m.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</span><br><span><=
/span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: Pat Horne <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 12:59:10 -0600

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Yes, cable tracers are very handy, I have 4 of them in one form or another. I=
=E2=80=99ve found that there are two classes of tracers, cheap & not so chea=
p. Units under about $50 will work for most jobs, but the more expensive one=
s generally have greater sensitivity. 2 of mine are cheap, one is Fluke & on=
e is part of a high dollar instrument for actually measuring the specificati=
ons of cables.=20

One helpful way to increase the sensitivity of the tracer when tracing a pai=
r of wired is to connect the signal generator to one of the conductors & the=
 other test lead to ground rather than to both of the wires in the pair.=20
This also helps when you have a short between the wires you are tracing.=20

None of them work for finding cables in buried PVC conduit, even when right a=
gainst the conduit.=20

Fluke & Greenlee seem to be the best bang for the buck if you are going to u=
se more than a few times.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity

On Nov 12, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Brian Kemp <[email-masked]> wrote:

=EF=BB=BF Saw this problem was solved, but wanted to add my feedback on a ca=
ble tracker that others have mentioned.  I have a 5+ year old version from H=
arbor Freight, but it is no longer on their site.    This appears to be the c=
urrent version:

https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html

I was doing some renovations and had wires in electrical outlook boxes that I=
 couldn't identify.  With the power off, I connected the signal generator an=
d was able to trace the signal with the wand through the plaster walls.  Bot=
h went to locations in the wall with no exposed box - bad work by someone de=
cades ago.  The plaster walls were a challenge and I only got a weak signal,=
 but was able to know it was ok to cap the wires.

I also have about 10 phone jacks in my house, with some shorts in some of th=
em.  The phone company installer initially just disconnected everything and r=
econnected only the two I was going to connect.  A few years later, I needed=
 to move my DSL modem, so needed to activate a different jack.  Connected th=
e signal generator and ran the wand over the disconnected wires at the centr=
al phone termination to find the one I needed to connect.

Brian

On 11/10/2021 4:15 PM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Oh wise & beneficent Shop Talkers - I've run into a situation that has me s=
tymied. I need help locating a blown fuse in a motorhome.=20
>=20
> We recently bought a new (to us) motorhome. When installing the signal boo=
ster for a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) I accidentally shorted a 1=
2V wire in the cargo bay lights. There was a small spark (followed by a few s=
wear words). I then went on a hunt for the blown fuse. There are three fuse p=
anels in this motorhome. Two in the Ford chassis (F-53) - one under the hood=
 and the other inside near the parking brake - plus one in the motorhome's 1=
20V - 12V power converter. I could not find a blown fuse anywhere.=20
>=20
> I contacted the manufacturer (Thor) who has actually been quite responsive=
 & has tried to help. After asking for my vehicle's VIN they emailed me some=
 schematics (not actual wire diagrams but more a map showing the general loc=
ation of outlets, switches, etc with indications of which circuit they belon=
g to). There are two schematics that appear to apply to my motorhome - one i=
ndicates the cargo lights are connected to the Ford panel by the parking bra=
ke, another indicates they are in circuit #6 of the converter's 12V panel. N=
either of those fuses are blown. While there I checked all the fuses I could=
 locate - none were blown. I've also signed up to a couple of motorhome foru=
ms but have not been able to find an answer there.=20
>=20
> Finally - my plea for help - is there any device one can use to trace wher=
e a circuit originates? I've seen an electrician use a device to find out wh=
at outlet goes to which breaker in our house.
>=20
> I've followed the hot wire from the cargo bay light back to where it enter=
s a wire harness along the motorhome's frame rail. I'm loath to rip open the=
 wire harness trying to chase the wire further upstream. As far as I can tel=
l there is nothing else in this circuit - everything else is working properl=
y. Of course I can live without cargo bay lights but it bothers my OCD to ha=
ve it not working (when I know it did before my screw up).=20
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@e=
arthlink.net

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Yes, cable tracers are very handy, I have 4=
 of them in one form or another. I=E2=80=99ve found that there are two class=
es of tracers, cheap &amp; not so cheap. Units under about $50 will work for=
 most jobs, but the more expensive ones generally have greater sensitivity. 2=
 of mine are cheap, one is Fluke &amp; one is part of a high dollar instrume=
nt for actually measuring the specifications of cables.&nbsp;<div><br></div>=
<div>One helpful way to increase the sensitivity of the tracer when tracing a=
 pair of wired is to connect the signal generator to one of the conductors &=
amp; the other test lead to ground rather than to both of the wires in the p=
air.&nbsp;</div><div>This also helps when you have a short between the wires=
 you are tracing.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>None of them work for findi=
ng cables in buried PVC conduit, even when right against the conduit.&nbsp;<=
br><div><br></div><div>Fluke &amp; Greenlee seem to be the best bang for the=
 buck if you are going to use more than a few times.&nbsp;<br><br>Peace,</di=
v><div>Pat</div><div><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Hab=
itat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Nov 12, 2=
021, at 12:24 PM, Brian Kemp &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
 =20
 =20
    Saw this problem was solved, but wanted to add my feedback on a
    cable tracker that others have mentioned.&nbsp; I have a 5+ year old
    version from Harbor Freight, but it is no longer on their site.&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;
    This appears to be the current version:<br>
    <br>
    <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com=
/cable-tracker-94181.html">https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181=
.html</a><br>
    <br>
    I was doing some renovations and had wires in electrical outlook
    boxes that I couldn't identify.&nbsp; With the power off, I connected th=
e
    signal generator and was able to trace the signal with the wand
    through the plaster walls.&nbsp; Both went to locations in the wall with=

    no exposed box - bad work by someone decades ago.&nbsp; The plaster wall=
s
    were a challenge and I only got a weak signal, but was able to know
    it was ok to cap the wires.<br>
    <br>
    I also have about 10 phone jacks in my house, with some shorts in
    some of them.&nbsp; The phone company installer initially just
    disconnected everything and reconnected only the two I was going to
    connect.&nbsp; A few years later, I needed to move my DSL modem, so
    needed to activate a different jack.&nbsp; Connected the signal generato=
r
    and ran the wand over the disconnected wires at the central phone
    termination to find the one I needed to connect.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 11/10/2021 4:15 PM, Eric Russell
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:CAP7dBXAUkTD2CXpZES70onWfajOE3XgaU=
[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-=
8">
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Oh wise &amp; beneficent Shop Talkers - I've run
        into a situation that has me stymied. I need help locating a
        blown fuse in a motorhome.&nbsp;
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>We recently bought a new (to us) motorhome. When installing
          the signal booster for a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring
          System) I accidentally&nbsp;shorted a 12V wire in the cargo bay
          lights. There was a small spark (followed by a few swear
          words). I then went on a hunt for the blown fuse. There are
          three fuse panels in this motorhome. Two in the Ford chassis
          (F-53) - one under the hood and the other inside near the
          parking brake - plus one in the motorhome's 120V - 12V power
          converter. I could not find a blown fuse anywhere.&nbsp;
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>I contacted the manufacturer (Thor) who has actually been
            quite responsive &amp; has tried to help. After asking for
            my vehicle's VIN they emailed me some schematics (not actual
            wire diagrams but more a map showing the general location of
            outlets, switches, etc with indications of which circuit
            they belong to). There are two schematics that appear to
            apply to my motorhome - one indicates the cargo lights are
            connected to the Ford panel by the parking brake, another
            indicates they are in circuit #6 of the converter's 12V
            panel. Neither of those fuses are blown. While there I
            checked all the fuses I could locate - none were blown. I've
            also signed up to a couple of motorhome forums but have not
            been able to find an answer there.&nbsp;</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Finally - my plea for help - is there any device one can
            use to trace where a circuit originates? I've seen an
            electrician use a device to find out what outlet goes to
            which breaker in our house.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>I've followed the hot wire from the cargo bay light back
            to where it enters a wire harness along the motorhome's
            frame rail. I'm loath to rip open the wire harness trying to
            chase the wire further upstream. As far as I can tell there
            is nothing else in this circuit - everything else is working
            properly. Of course I can live without cargo bay lights but
            it bothers my OCD to have it not working (when I know it did
            before my screw up).&nbsp;<br clear=3D"all">
            <div><br>
            </div>
            -- <br>
            <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gma=
il_signature">
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Eric Russell
                <div>Mebane, NC</div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
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