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Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2021 21:56:24 -0500
From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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 mail.backend.jedi.jws.acl:role.jedi.acl.token.atz.jws.hermes.yahoo
Subject: [Shop-talk] weight capacity of aluminum channel
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format

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I'm thinking about using aluminum channel for a set of ramps for my ca=
r hauler.  I have some 'available' that is  10" wide with .50 web thic=
kness and almost 3" flange... about 15# per ft.

ramps will be 7-8'=20
long =E2=80=A6..  and will go from ground to 17" high trailer deck... =
 truck weight is 5300 +/- =E2=80=A6 with front end weighting 3840.   I=
 can't find a table telling me weight capacity of
channel with the load traveling up the wide web...   like this   any i=
deas on capacity ??



thanks
john

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<STYLE type=3Dtext/css> body { margin:0.7em; } body.OECFntDef, body.OE=
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<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001"></HEAD>
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<DIV>I'm thinking about using aluminum channel for a set of ramps for =
my car hauler.&nbsp; I have some 'available' that is&nbsp; 10" wide wi=
th .50 web thickness and almost 3" flange... about 15# per ft.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>ramps will be 7-8' long =E2=80=A6..&nbsp; and will go from ground=
 to 17" high trailer deck...&nbsp; truck weight is 5300 +/- =E2=80=A6 =
with front end weighting 3840.&nbsp;&nbsp; I can't find a table tellin=
g me weight capacity of</DIV>
<DIV>channel with the load traveling up the wide web...&nbsp;&nbsp; li=
ke this&nbsp;&nbsp; any ideas on capacity ??</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><IMG alt=3DImage87ABA31D src=3D"cid:1UZ2jB6kD5.3Za19vpLCjR@johns-=
desktop"></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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--I=_2omKCKRECjqag0gFNJZPYJZZq1nmyLA--

--mCruWevkvc93kkJPhqZN3xrhuSodtlu4=_--


--===============0272873723724904883==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============0272873723724904883==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  2 04:18:10 2021
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN@johns-desktop>
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 06:16:19 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/78.11.0
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] weight capacity of aluminum channel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

BIG NOTE: please check my calculations and assumptions; I haven't
actually done any of this for nearly 40 years.

TLDR: They might not work.

The significant supporting bits are the two flanges (3in x 0.5in); the
plate across the top adds very little strength.

All calculations below in pounds and inches.

The maximum stress on the webs (if the weight is perfectly divided
between them; more on that later) will be (equation 1-1 in reference 1)
with the weight at the center of the ramp. Fb (bending stress in the
flange of the channel) must be less than the yield stress of the channel
material.

  Fb =3D M*c/I

[Ref 2] M for each web: PL/8 =3D P*120in/8 =3D P*15in [P is point load, lb]
[email] c for each web: 1.5in
[Ref 4] I for each web: (b*(h^3))/12 =3D ((0.5in)*(3in)^3)/12 =3D 1.125in^4

  Fb =3D (P*15in*1.5in)/1.125in^4 =3D P*20 lb/in^2

For the given situation, p=3D3840lb, so Fb (max) is 3840*20 =3D 76800lb/in^2
distributed between the two channels, each with two flanges. Since Fb
must be less than the material yield stress, 10000 psi for some kind of
structural Al, but not high-strength material [Ref 3], this doesn't look
very good. Each flange would be loaded to about 19200lb/in^2 if all
loads were perfectly distributed. (Note that high-strength Al (e.g.
6061) can have a yield stress of 45000lb/in^2 so looks much more likely
to succeed, but I don't know how much I'd trust that.)

My biggest concerns would be the division of stresses between flanges
(if one channel tilts a little or is not sitting perfectly flat on the
trailer or ground, stress sharing will be uneven and one flange make
take all stress) and the potential for flange instability (see notes in
1.3.1.5 in Ref 1.) This may not be a problem because the flanges are not
particularly deep, but I watched a boat hung from I-beams drop when a
structural I-beam twisted slightly from imperfect loading and the entire
structure quickly twisted into a totally unsupportive mess.

References:
1 Beam stress/strain:
<https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/simple-beam-bending-air-force-str=
ess-manual>

2 Beam force/reaction:
<https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/beam-forces-moments-air-force-str=
ess-manual>

3 Material properties:
<https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/properties-aluminum-pipe-d_1340.html>

4 Area moments:
<https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/area-moment-inertia-d_1328.html>

ATB,
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2021-07-01 10:56 p.m., john niolon wrote:
> I'm thinking about using aluminum channel for a set of ramps for my car
> hauler.=A0 I have some 'available' that is=A0 10" wide with .50 web
> thickness and almost 3" flange... about 15# per ft.
> =A0
> ramps will be 7-8' long =85..=A0 and will go from ground to 17" high trai=
ler
> deck...=A0 truck weight is 5300 +/- =85 with front end weighting 3840.=A0=
=A0 I
> can't find a table telling me weight capacity of
> channel with the load traveling up the wide web...=A0=A0 like this=A0=A0 =
any
> ideas on capacity ??
> =A0
> Image87ABA31D
> =A0
> thanks
> john
> =A0
> =A0
> =

> _______________________________________________
> =

> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive
> =

> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhloc=
ker@comcast.net
> =

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

utox.team.net


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  2 04:34:08 2021
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From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN@johns-desktop>
 <d9d745b2-521a-6135-b0ee-a10343c3c4dd@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 06:29:07 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/78.11.0
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] weight capacity of aluminum channel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

First oops - I used 10ft length, not 8ft. At 8ft, the numbers look
better by about 20%

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 2021-07-02 6:16 a.m., Donald H Locker wrote:
> BIG NOTE: please check my calculations and assumptions; I haven't
> actually done any of this for nearly 40 years.
> =

> TLDR: They might not work.
> =

> The significant supporting bits are the two flanges (3in x 0.5in); the
> plate across the top adds very little strength.
> =

> All calculations below in pounds and inches.
> =

> The maximum stress on the webs (if the weight is perfectly divided
> between them; more on that later) will be (equation 1-1 in reference 1)
> with the weight at the center of the ramp. Fb (bending stress in the
> flange of the channel) must be less than the yield stress of the channel
> material.
> =

>   Fb =3D M*c/I
> =

> [Ref 2] M for each web: PL/8 =3D P*120in/8 =3D P*15in [P is point load, l=
b]
> [email] c for each web: 1.5in
> [Ref 4] I for each web: (b*(h^3))/12 =3D ((0.5in)*(3in)^3)/12 =3D 1.125in=
^4
> =

>   Fb =3D (P*15in*1.5in)/1.125in^4 =3D P*20 lb/in^2
> =

> For the given situation, p=3D3840lb, so Fb (max) is 3840*20 =3D 76800lb/i=
n^2
> distributed between the two channels, each with two flanges. Since Fb
> must be less than the material yield stress, 10000 psi for some kind of
> structural Al, but not high-strength material [Ref 3], this doesn't look
> very good. Each flange would be loaded to about 19200lb/in^2 if all
> loads were perfectly distributed. (Note that high-strength Al (e.g.
> 6061) can have a yield stress of 45000lb/in^2 so looks much more likely
> to succeed, but I don't know how much I'd trust that.)
> =

> My biggest concerns would be the division of stresses between flanges
> (if one channel tilts a little or is not sitting perfectly flat on the
> trailer or ground, stress sharing will be uneven and one flange make
> take all stress) and the potential for flange instability (see notes in
> 1.3.1.5 in Ref 1.) This may not be a problem because the flanges are not
> particularly deep, but I watched a boat hung from I-beams drop when a
> structural I-beam twisted slightly from imperfect loading and the entire
> structure quickly twisted into a totally unsupportive mess.
> =

> References:
> 1 Beam stress/strain:
> <https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/simple-beam-bending-air-force-s=
tress-manual>
> =

> 2 Beam force/reaction:
> <https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/beam-forces-moments-air-force-s=
tress-manual>
> =

> 3 Material properties:
> <https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/properties-aluminum-pipe-d_1340.html>
> =

> 4 Area moments:
> <https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/area-moment-inertia-d_1328.html>
> =

> ATB,
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
> =

> On 2021-07-01 10:56 p.m., john niolon wrote:
>> I'm thinking about using aluminum channel for a set of ramps for my car
>> hauler.=A0 I have some 'available' that is=A0 10" wide with .50 web
>> thickness and almost 3" flange... about 15# per ft.
>> =A0
>> ramps will be 7-8' long =85..=A0 and will go from ground to 17" high tra=
iler
>> deck...=A0 truck weight is 5300 +/- =85 with front end weighting 3840.=
=A0=A0 I
>> can't find a table telling me weight capacity of
>> channel with the load traveling up the wide web...=A0=A0 like this=A0=A0=
 any
>> ideas on capacity ??
>> =A0
>> Image87ABA31D
>> =A0
>> thanks
>> john
>> =A0
>> =A0
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/a=
rchive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlo=
cker@comcast.net
>>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

utox.team.net


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  2 06:49:35 2021
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References: <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN@johns-desktop>
 <d9d745b2-521a-6135-b0ee-a10343c3c4dd@comcast.net>
 <881859ea-f471-0c1a-c52f-02d94118e4cb@comcast.net>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 08:42:16 -0400
To: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] weight capacity of aluminum channel
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7484050273822021780==

--000000000000d5cfb305c62349b8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I haven't done it on 35 years, but at least your equations look familiar.
I find that comforting.

If the capability is questionable, would solid wood blocks of a suitable
height to support the channel somewhere near the center help?

On Fri, Jul 2, 2021, 06:34 Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net> wrote:

> First oops - I used 10ft length, not 8ft. At 8ft, the numbers look
> better by about 20%
>
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
>
> On 2021-07-02 6:16 a.m., Donald H Locker wrote:
> > BIG NOTE: please check my calculations and assumptions; I haven't
> > actually done any of this for nearly 40 years.
> >
> > TLDR: They might not work.
> >
> > The significant supporting bits are the two flanges (3in x 0.5in); the
> > plate across the top adds very little strength.
> >
> > All calculations below in pounds and inches.
> >
> > The maximum stress on the webs (if the weight is perfectly divided
> > between them; more on that later) will be (equation 1-1 in reference 1)
> > with the weight at the center of the ramp. Fb (bending stress in the
> > flange of the channel) must be less than the yield stress of the channe=
l
> > material.
> >
> >   Fb =3D M*c/I
> >
> > [Ref 2] M for each web: PL/8 =3D P*120in/8 =3D P*15in [P is point load,=
 lb]
> > [email] c for each web: 1.5in
> > [Ref 4] I for each web: (b*(h^3))/12 =3D ((0.5in)*(3in)^3)/12 =3D 1.125=
in^4
> >
> >   Fb =3D (P*15in*1.5in)/1.125in^4 =3D P*20 lb/in^2
> >
> > For the given situation, p=3D3840lb, so Fb (max) is 3840*20 =3D 76800lb=
/in^2
> > distributed between the two channels, each with two flanges. Since Fb
> > must be less than the material yield stress, 10000 psi for some kind of
> > structural Al, but not high-strength material [Ref 3], this doesn't loo=
k
> > very good. Each flange would be loaded to about 19200lb/in^2 if all
> > loads were perfectly distributed. (Note that high-strength Al (e.g.
> > 6061) can have a yield stress of 45000lb/in^2 so looks much more likely
> > to succeed, but I don't know how much I'd trust that.)
> >
> > My biggest concerns would be the division of stresses between flanges
> > (if one channel tilts a little or is not sitting perfectly flat on the
> > trailer or ground, stress sharing will be uneven and one flange make
> > take all stress) and the potential for flange instability (see notes in
> > 1.3.1.5 in Ref 1.) This may not be a problem because the flanges are no=
t
> > particularly deep, but I watched a boat hung from I-beams drop when a
> > structural I-beam twisted slightly from imperfect loading and the entir=
e
> > structure quickly twisted into a totally unsupportive mess.
> >
> > References:
> > 1 Beam stress/strain:
> > <
> https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/simple-beam-bending-air-force-st=
ress-manual
> >
> >
> > 2 Beam force/reaction:
> > <
> https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/beam-forces-moments-air-force-st=
ress-manual
> >
> >
> > 3 Material properties:
> > <https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/properties-aluminum-pipe-d_1340.htm=
l
> >
> >
> > 4 Area moments:
> > <https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/area-moment-inertia-d_1328.html>
> >
> > ATB,
> > Donald.
> > --
> > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> > /\ <https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>
> >
> > On 2021-07-01 10:56 p.m., john niolon wrote:
> >> I'm thinking about using aluminum channel for a set of ramps for my ca=
r
> >> hauler.  I have some 'available' that is  10" wide with .50 web
> >> thickness and almost 3" flange... about 15# per ft.
> >>
> >> ramps will be 7-8' long =E2=80=A6..  and will go from ground to 17" hi=
gh trailer
> >> deck...  truck weight is 5300 +/- =E2=80=A6 with front end weighting 3=
840.   I
> >> can't find a table telling me weight capacity of
> >> channel with the load traveling up the wide web...   like this   any
> >> ideas on capacity ??
> >>
> >> Image87ABA31D
> >>
> >> thanks
> >> john
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
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<div dir=3D"auto">I haven&#39;t done it on 35 years, but at least your equa=
tions look familiar.=C2=A0 I find that comforting.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto">If the capability is questionable, would solid wood bl=
ocks of a suitable height to support the channel somewhere near the center =
help?</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Fri, Jul 2, 2021, 06:34 Donald H Locker &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:dhlocker@comcast.net">dhlocker@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc =
solid;padding-left:1ex">First oops - I used 10ft length, not 8ft. At 8ft, t=
he numbers look<br>
better by about 20%<br>
<br>
Donald.<br>
--<br>
*Plain Text* email -- it&#39;s an accessibility issue<br>
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail<br>
/\ &lt;<a href=3D"https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml=
" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://www.georgedillon.=
com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml</a>&gt;<br>
<br>
On 2021-07-02 6:16 a.m., Donald H Locker wrote:<br>
&gt; BIG NOTE: please check my calculations and assumptions; I haven&#39;t<=
br>
&gt; actually done any of this for nearly 40 years.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; TLDR: They might not work.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The significant supporting bits are the two flanges (3in x 0.5in); the=
<br>
&gt; plate across the top adds very little strength.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; All calculations below in pounds and inches.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The maximum stress on the webs (if the weight is perfectly divided<br>
&gt; between them; more on that later) will be (equation 1-1 in reference 1=
)<br>
&gt; with the weight at the center of the ramp. Fb (bending stress in the<b=
r>
&gt; flange of the channel) must be less than the yield stress of the chann=
el<br>
&gt; material.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0Fb =3D M*c/I<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; [Ref 2] M for each web: PL/8 =3D P*120in/8 =3D P*15in [P is point load=
, lb]<br>
&gt; [email] c for each web: 1.5in<br>
&gt; [Ref 4] I for each web: (b*(h^3))/12 =3D ((0.5in)*(3in)^3)/12 =3D 1.12=
5in^4<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0Fb =3D (P*15in*1.5in)/1.125in^4 =3D P*20 lb/in^2<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; For the given situation, p=3D3840lb, so Fb (max) is 3840*20 =3D 76800l=
b/in^2<br>
&gt; distributed between the two channels, each with two flanges. Since Fb<=
br>
&gt; must be less than the material yield stress, 10000 psi for some kind o=
f<br>
&gt; structural Al, but not high-strength material [Ref 3], this doesn&#39;=
t look<br>
&gt; very good. Each flange would be loaded to about 19200lb/in^2 if all<br=
>
&gt; loads were perfectly distributed. (Note that high-strength Al (e.g.<br=
>
&gt; 6061) can have a yield stress of 45000lb/in^2 so looks much more likel=
y<br>
&gt; to succeed, but I don&#39;t know how much I&#39;d trust that.)<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; My biggest concerns would be the division of stresses between flanges<=
br>
&gt; (if one channel tilts a little or is not sitting perfectly flat on the=
<br>
&gt; trailer or ground, stress sharing will be uneven and one flange make<b=
r>
&gt; take all stress) and the potential for flange instability (see notes i=
n<br>
&gt; 1.3.1.5 in Ref 1.) This may not be a problem because the flanges are n=
ot<br>
&gt; particularly deep, but I watched a boat hung from I-beams drop when a<=
br>
&gt; structural I-beam twisted slightly from imperfect loading and the enti=
re<br>
&gt; structure quickly twisted into a totally unsupportive mess.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; References:<br>
&gt; 1 Beam stress/strain:<br>
&gt; &lt;<a href=3D"https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/simple-beam-be=
nding-air-force-stress-manual" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/simple-beam-bending-air-force-=
stress-manual</a>&gt;<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; 2 Beam force/reaction:<br>
&gt; &lt;<a href=3D"https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/beam-forces-mo=
ments-air-force-stress-manual" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">https://engineeringlibrary.org/reference/beam-forces-moments-air-force-=
stress-manual</a>&gt;<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; 3 Material properties:<br>
&gt; &lt;<a href=3D"https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/properties-aluminum-=
pipe-d_1340.html" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://w=
ww.engineeringtoolbox.com/properties-aluminum-pipe-d_1340.html</a>&gt;<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; 4 Area moments:<br>
&gt; &lt;<a href=3D"https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/area-moment-inertia-=
d_1328.html" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://www.en=
gineeringtoolbox.com/area-moment-inertia-d_1328.html</a>&gt;<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; ATB,<br>
&gt; Donald.<br>
&gt; --<br>
&gt; *Plain Text* email -- it&#39;s an accessibility issue<br>
&gt; () no proprietary attachments; no html mail<br>
&gt; /\ &lt;<a href=3D"https://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.=
shtml" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://www.georgedi=
llon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml</a>&gt;<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; On 2021-07-01 10:56 p.m., john niolon wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt; I&#39;m thinking about using aluminum channel for a set of ramps f=
or my car<br>
&gt;&gt; hauler.=C2=A0 I have some &#39;available&#39; that is=C2=A0 10&quo=
t; wide with .50 web<br>
&gt;&gt; thickness and almost 3&quot; flange... about 15# per ft.<br>
&gt;&gt; =C2=A0<br>
&gt;&gt; ramps will be 7-8&#39; long =E2=80=A6..=C2=A0 and will go from gro=
und to 17&quot; high trailer<br>
&gt;&gt; deck...=C2=A0 truck weight is 5300 +/- =E2=80=A6 with front end we=
ighting 3840.=C2=A0=C2=A0 I<br>
&gt;&gt; can&#39;t find a table telling me weight capacity of<br>
&gt;&gt; channel with the load traveling up the wide web...=C2=A0=C2=A0 lik=
e this=C2=A0=C2=A0 any<br>
&gt;&gt; ideas on capacity ??<br>
&gt;&gt; =C2=A0<br>
&gt;&gt; Image87ABA31D<br>
&gt;&gt; =C2=A0<br>
&gt;&gt; thanks<br>
&gt;&gt; john<br>
&gt;&gt; =C2=A0<br>
&gt;&gt; =C2=A0<br>
&gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
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&gt;&gt;<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
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<br>
</blockquote></div>

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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
References: <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN.ref@johns-desktop>
 <1UZ2jB6kD5.2FWo8X8OZYN@johns-desktop>
 <d9d745b2-521a-6135-b0ee-a10343c3c4dd@comcast.net>
 <881859ea-f471-0c1a-c52f-02d94118e4cb@comcast.net>
 <CAO8Q7CMux5SkOERwkWXkv7RfzNUpRO45BbhZM+=M_TQs3PE2pQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 09:11:50 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/78.11.0
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] weight capacity of aluminum channel
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: "Smart" garage heater
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Subject: [Shop-talk] "Smart" garage heater
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7893354198266569482==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9TU4PR8401MB0416_"

--_000_TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9TU4PR8401MB0416_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've recently been enjoying the benefits of adding a smart plug (https://wy=
ze.com/wyze-plug.html) to the AC unit in my detached workshop/garage so I c=
an remotely turn it on and off, and also monitor it using a remote temp/hum=
idity sensor from Govee. Makes it easy to turn on the AC before I decide to=
 go out there, or turn it off if I decide not to. I've also added one to ou=
r attic fan for those really hot days.

This has me thinking it would be great to be able to do this with my hardwi=
red electric heater as well for the winter months. I've used this heater fo=
r a few years now and find it does a great job to maintain temps but can ta=
ke a few hours to get the temps up on the colder days:  https://www.lowes.c=
om/pd/Comfort-Zone-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Fan-Forced-Industrial-U=
tility-Heater-Furnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Protection/1003054570?cm_mmc=3Ds=
hp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-sosheatingandcoolers-_-1003054570-_-=
0&placeholder=3Dnull&ds_rl=3D1286981&gclid=3DCj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfb=
givVS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FXzgVIAXGz0e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&gclsrc=3Daw.=
ds

I had been thinking the only way to do it was to add a "smart" breaker to t=
he subpanel I have in the garage but those seem a bit pricey and was wonder=
ing if it would be good for the unit to power it on and off repeatedly usin=
g the breaker.

I was amazed to find that someone did a nice writeup on adding automation t=
o this exact heater model using some pretty affordable pieces: https://thes=
martcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/

I have plenty of time to plan this out before cold weather, but was curious=
 if anyone has done something like this, something similar to automate hard=
wired devices like heaters, or thinks this is a safe way to go about it?

Thx
PJ

--_000_TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9TU4PR8401MB0416_
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<html>
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<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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I've recently been enjoying the benefits of adding a smart plug (<a href=3D=
"https://wyze.com/wyze-plug.html" id=3D"LPlnk">https://wyze.com/wyze-plug.h=
tml</a>)&nbsp;to the AC unit in my detached workshop/garage so I can remote=
ly turn it on and off, and also monitor it
 using a remote temp/humidity sensor from Govee. Makes it easy to turn on t=
he AC before I decide to go out there, or turn it off if I decide not to. I=
've also added one to our attic fan for those really hot days.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
This has me thinking it would be great to be able to do this with my hardwi=
red electric heater as well for the winter months. I've used this heater fo=
r a few years now and find it does a great job to maintain temps but can ta=
ke a few hours to get the temps
 up on the colder days:&nbsp; <a href=3D"https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Z=
one-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Fan-Forced-Industrial-Utility-Heater-F=
urnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Protection/1003054570?cm_mmc=3Dshp-_-c-_-prd-_-=
sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-sosheatingandcoolers-_-1003054570-_-0&amp;placehold=
er=3Dnull&amp;ds_rl=3D1286981&amp;gclid=3DCj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfbgiv=
VS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FXzgVIAXGz0e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=3Daw=
.ds" id=3D"LPlnk">
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Zone-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Fan-=
Forced-Industrial-Utility-Heater-Furnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Protection/10=
03054570?cm_mmc=3Dshp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-sosheatingandcool=
ers-_-1003054570-_-0&amp;placeholder=3Dnull&amp;ds_rl=3D1286981&amp;gclid=
=3DCj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfbgivVS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FXzgVIAXGz0=
e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=3Daw.ds</a></div>
<div class=3D"_Entity _EType_OWALinkPreview _EId_OWALinkPreview _EReadonly_=
1"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I had been thinking the only way to do it was to add a &quot;smart&quot; br=
eaker to the subpanel I have in the garage but those seem a bit pricey and =
was wondering if it would be good for the unit to power it on and off repea=
tedly using the breaker.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I was amazed to find that someone did a nice writeup on adding automation t=
o this exact heater model using some pretty affordable pieces:&nbsp;<a href=
=3D"https://thesmartcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/" id=3D"LPlnk1=
72982" style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12p=
t;">https://thesmartcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I have plenty of time to plan this out before cold weather, but was curious=
 if anyone has done something like this, something similar to automate hard=
wired devices like heaters, or thinks this is a safe way to go about it?</d=
iv>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Thx</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
PJ</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9TU4PR8401MB0416_--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7893354198266569482==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  2 08:21:33 2021
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 09:16:21 -0500
References: <d9d745b2-521a-6135-b0ee-a10343c3c4dd@comcast.net>
To: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
 =?UTF-8?Q?2903e8d5c8f:6.0.391,18.0.790,17.0.607.475.0000000_definitions?=
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] weight capacity of aluminum channel
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2021 10:49:35 -0400
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
 AMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9@TU4PR8401MB0416.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] "Smart" garage heater
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8881268894336060135==
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PJ,

I was considering doing something similar.  The heater I have keeps 
the fan running for a couple of minutes when the thermostat stops 
calling for heat.  While it can handle having the power cut 
completely, the manufacturer said that doing that repeatedly was bad 
for the heater and could shorten its life.  My plan was instead to 
wire the relay into the line going to the thermostat so it would 
continue to function in the usual way.  The relay being open would be 
the same as the thermostat being open, not calling for 
heat.  Unfortunately, this thought experiment is as far as I have 
gotten.  This project remains on my "maybe I'll get to it someday" list.

-Steve T.

At 09:29 AM 7/2/2021, PJ McGarvey wrote:
>Content-Language: en-US
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> 
>boundary="_000_TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9TU4PR8401MB0416_"
>
>I've recently been enjoying the benefits of adding a smart plug 
>(<https://wyze.com/wyze-plug.html>https://wyze.com/wyze-plug.html) 
>to the AC unit in my detached workshop/garage so I can remotely turn 
>it on and off, and also monitor it using a remote temp/humidity 
>sensor from Govee. Makes it easy to turn on the AC before I decide 
>to go out there, or turn it off if I decide not to. I've also added 
>one to our attic fan for those really hot days.
>
>This has me thinking it would be great to be able to do this with my 
>hardwired electric heater as well for the winter months. I've used 
>this heater for a few years now and find it does a great job to 
>maintain temps but can take a few hours to get the temps up on the 
>colder 
>days: 
><https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Zone-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Fan-Forced-Industrial-Utility-Heater-Furnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Protection/1003054570?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-sosheatingandcoolers-_-1003054570-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfbgivVS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FXzgVIAXGz0e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds>https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Zone-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Fan-Forced-Industrial-Utility-Heater-Furnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Protection/1003054570?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-sosheatingandcoolers-_-1003054570-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfbgivVS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FXzgVIAXGz0e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
>I had been thinking the only way to do it was to add a "smart" 
>breaker to the subpanel I have in the garage but those seem a bit 
>pricey and was wondering if it would be good for the unit to power 
>it on and off repeatedly using the breaker.
>
>I was amazed to find that someone did a nice writeup on adding 
>automation to this exact heater model using some pretty affordable 
>pieces: 
><https://thesmartcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/>https://thesmartcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/
>
>I have plenty of time to plan this out before cold weather, but was 
>curious if anyone has done something like this, something similar to 
>automate hardwired devices like heaters, or thinks this is a safe 
>way to go about it?
>
>Thx
>PJ


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<html>
<body>
PJ,<br><br>
I was considering doing something similar.&nbsp; The heater I have keeps
the fan running for a couple of minutes when the thermostat stops calling
for heat.&nbsp; While it can handle having the power cut completely, the
manufacturer said that doing that repeatedly was bad for the heater and
could shorten its life.&nbsp; My plan was instead to wire the relay into
the line going to the thermostat so it would continue to function in the
usual way.&nbsp; The relay being open would be the same as the thermostat
being open, not calling for heat.&nbsp; Unfortunately, this thought
experiment is as far as I have gotten.&nbsp; This project remains on my
&quot;maybe I'll get to it someday&quot; list.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve T.<br><br>
At 09:29 AM 7/2/2021, PJ McGarvey wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">Content-Language: en-US<br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>
boundary=3D&quot;_000_TU4PR8401MB04169EFBB6E89119FE1ED5249A1F9TU4PR8401MB04=
16_&quot;<br>
<br>
I've recently been enjoying the benefits of adding a smart plug
(<a href=3D"https://wyze.com/wyze-plug.html">
https://wyze.com/wyze-plug.html</a>) to the AC unit in my detached
workshop/garage so I can remotely turn it on and off, and also monitor it
using a remote temp/humidity sensor from Govee. Makes it easy to turn on
the AC before I decide to go out there, or turn it off if I decide not
to. I've also added one to our attic fan for those really hot days.
<br><br>
This has me thinking it would be great to be able to do this with my
hardwired electric heater as well for the winter months. I've used this
heater for a few years now and find it does a great job to maintain temps
but can take a few hours to get the temps up on the colder days:&nbsp;
<a href=3D"https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Zone-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-El=
ectric-Fan-Forced-Industrial-Utility-Heater-Furnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Pr=
otection/1003054570?cm_mmc=3Dshp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-soshea=
tingandcoolers-_-1003054570-_-0&amp;placeholder=3Dnull&amp;ds_rl=3D1286981&=
amp;gclid=3DCj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfbgivVS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FX=
zgVIAXGz0e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=3Daw.ds">
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Zone-17065-BTU-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Fan-=
Forced-Industrial-Utility-Heater-Furnace-with-Safety-Overheat-Protection/10=
03054570?cm_mmc=3Dshp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_--_-sosheatingandcool=
ers-_-1003054570-_-0&amp;placeholder=3Dnull&amp;ds_rl=3D1286981&amp;gclid=
=3DCj0KCQjw8vqGBhC_ARIsADMSd1DJfbgivVS-Z2JpGFJV22vCzRj8CZB6sI-z5FXzgVIAXGz0=
e0J5bNwaAt0hEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=3Daw.ds</a>
<br><br>
I had been thinking the only way to do it was to add a &quot;smart&quot;
breaker to the subpanel I have in the garage but those seem a bit pricey
and was wondering if it would be good for the unit to power it on and off
repeatedly using the breaker.&nbsp; <br><br>
I was amazed to find that someone did a nice writeup on adding automation
to this exact heater model using some pretty affordable pieces:
<a href=3D"https://thesmartcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/">
https://thesmartcave.com/how-to-make-smart-garage-heater/</a><br><br>
I have plenty of time to plan this out before cold weather, but was
curious if anyone has done something like this, something similar to
automate hardwired devices like heaters, or thinks this is a safe way to
go about it?<br><br>
Thx<br>
PJ</blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
<table style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
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		<td style=3D"width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: =
13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-=
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  8 16:03:10 2021
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 for shop-talk@autox.team.net; Thu, 08 Jul 2021 17:02:58 -0500
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 17:02:56 -0500
From: lee@automate-it.com
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/1.4.11
 please include it with any abuse report
Subject: [Shop-talk] Gojo no longer the Go-To
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've used the Gojo "1204" dispenser for years, when it runs out just 
plop another 4.5-lb canister on it and your good to go.
But apparently no longer. https://amz.run/4iwJ

Even though the canister looks the same, and may even still have the 
instructions on the side for mounting on the dispenser, it does not 
work. With a little searching I find that one may be able to empty the 
contents of the new canister into an old one, but there's evidence that 
the new formula will just run out of the nozzle.

I found one review that included this quote from Gojo: "Please note, due 
to a necessary formulation upgrade in 2018, this product is no longer 
compatible with the #1204 dispenser." Which also probably means that it 
doesn't work as well as the old formulation. I hope I'm wrong. I've used 
Goop and a couple of others, and none were as effective as 
Original-formula Gojo.

Suggestions for the best replacement?

  - Lee
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  8 16:11:09 2021
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Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 17:10:58 -0500
From: lee@automate-it.com
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <065240d47057189fa1d5a2a56936b123@automate-it.com>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/1.4.11
 please include it with any abuse report
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gojo no longer the Go-To
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At least Gojo has not removed the reviews from their own web site. The 
product page
(https://www.gojo.com/en/Product/1115-06) "GOJO ORIGINAL FORMULA Hand 
Cleaner" has 16 reviews - and ALL 16 are 1-star reviews!
Remember "New Coke", anyone?

- Lee

On 2021-07-08 17:02, lee@automate-it.com wrote:
> I've used the Gojo "1204" dispenser for years, when it runs out just
> plop another 4.5-lb canister on it and your good to go.
> But apparently no longer. https://amz.run/4iwJ
> 
> Even though the canister looks the same, and may even still have the
> instructions on the side for mounting on the dispenser, it does not
> work. With a little searching I find that one may be able to empty the
> contents of the new canister into an old one, but there's evidence
> that the new formula will just run out of the nozzle.
> 
> I found one review that included this quote from Gojo: "Please note,
> due to a necessary formulation upgrade in 2018, this product is no
> longer compatible with the #1204 dispenser." Which also probably means
> that it doesn't work as well as the old formulation. I hope I'm wrong.
> I've used Goop and a couple of others, and none were as effective as
> Original-formula Gojo.
> 
> Suggestions for the best replacement?
> 
>  - Lee
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 18:20:43 -0400
To: lee@automate-it.com,Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <065240d47057189fa1d5a2a56936b123@automate-it.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gojo no longer the Go-To
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My son is a machinist, and he turned me on to Kresto Classic hand 
cleaner.  It is much grittier than the Gojo.  I like it.  Here's a 
link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGRNKRC

-Steve


At 06:02 PM 7/8/2021, lee@automate-it.com wrote:
>I've used the Gojo "1204" dispenser for years, when it runs out just 
>plop another 4.5-lb canister on it and your good to go.
>But apparently no longer. https://amz.run/4iwJ
>
>Even though the canister looks the same, and may even still have the 
>instructions on the side for mounting on the dispenser, it does not 
>work. With a little searching I find that one may be able to empty 
>the contents of the new canister into an old one, but there's 
>evidence that the new formula will just run out of the nozzle.
>
>I found one review that included this quote from Gojo: "Please note, 
>due to a necessary formulation upgrade in 2018, this product is no 
>longer compatible with the #1204 dispenser." Which also probably 
>means that it doesn't work as well as the old formulation. I hope 
>I'm wrong. I've used Goop and a couple of others, and none were as 
>effective as Original-formula Gojo.
>
>Suggestions for the best replacement?
>
>  - Lee


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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gojo no longer the Go-To
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 <4fbbe4b6-c492-ee8e-f260-5dc5214a27f9@sackheads.org>
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 20:22:37 -0400
To: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gojo no longer the Go-To
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4924172552664454195==

--0000000000006a08e605c6a5c59d

Household vinegar works very well for cleaning up uncured epoxy.  I'm
building a boat that needs
15 gallons of epoxy, and I have gone through 4 or 5 gallons of vinegar so
far.
I'm surprised that the instructions on little hardware-store tubes of epoxy
don't tell you this.

Doug


On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 7:57 PM Jimmie Mayfield <
mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org> wrote:

>
>
> I have a Fast Orange pump in my garage.  About the only thing it found
> that it doesn't work well on is epoxy resin.  I've even used it, mixed
> with purple Simple Green, to remove oil stains from my garage floor.  It
> does leave your hands smelly, though.
>
>

--0000000000006a08e605c6a5c59d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Household vinegar works very well for cleaning up unc=
ured epoxy.=C2=A0 I&#39;m building a boat that needs</div><div>15 gallons o=
f epoxy, and I have gone through 4 or 5 gallons of vinegar so far.</div><di=
v>I&#39;m surprised that the instructions on little hardware-store tubes of=
 epoxy don&#39;t tell you this.</div><div><br></div><div>Doug</div><div><br=
></div><div><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 7:57 PM Jimmie Mayfield &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:mayfield%2Bshoptalk@sackheads.org">mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br=
>
<br>
I have a Fast Orange pump in my garage.=C2=A0 About the only thing it found=
 <br>
that it doesn&#39;t work well on is epoxy resin.=C2=A0 I&#39;ve even used i=
t, mixed <br>
with purple Simple Green, to remove oil stains from my garage floor.=C2=A0 =
It <br>
does leave your hands smelly, though.<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div>

--0000000000006a08e605c6a5c59d--

--===============4924172552664454195==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4924172552664454195==--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Hanging heavy shop wall art
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Hanging heavy shop wall art
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7303734144202730993==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_DS7PR19MB462908DCC3A7831B2B27F252B4179DS7PR19MB4629namp_"

--_000_DS7PR19MB462908DCC3A7831B2B27F252B4179DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey all,

I hesitated to ask this because I think it makes me sound like a moron. But=
, in my defense, I am a moron who can't cut wood to save his life: measure =
six times and STILL frell up the cut. So....here goes:

I finally acquired a Datsun tail gate to hang next to a Datsun Roadster hoo=
d that is just about totally covered by lichen. I want to hang these so the=
y stay on the wall. Shop walls are bare stud. (I started to insulate and ha=
ng OSB so the wall would be more solid that drywall. Once I notice that the=
 fool who built this garage put the untreated 2x4s bare on the slab so they=
 are not going to last to make it worthwhile to insulate.) Since I am in WI=
 we get a lot of humidity so I don't want to just put hooks in the studs an=
d place the sheet metal on them.

I am thinking of some sort of wire like hanging a picture with two or three=
 mount points on the wall. But, what should I use for the wire? It needs to=
 be something that won't corrode (obviously).

I've been in bars and restaurants where there has been big stuff hanging fr=
om the ceiling. I've even seen an F1 car hanging. SO, WTF are they using fo=
r this?

Sorry for the verbose ask here.
thanks
tim

--_000_DS7PR19MB462908DCC3A7831B2B27F252B4179DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I hesitated to ask this because I think it makes me sound like a moron. But=
, in my defense, I am a moron who can't cut wood to save his life: measure =
six times and STILL frell up the cut. So....here goes:&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I finally acquired a Datsun tail gate to hang next to a Datsun Roadster hoo=
d that is just about totally covered by lichen. I want to hang these so the=
y stay on the wall. Shop walls are bare stud. (I started to insulate and ha=
ng OSB so the wall would be more
 solid that drywall. Once I notice that the fool who built this garage put =
the untreated 2<span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, He=
lvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">x4s bare on the slab so they are not=
 going to last to make it worthwhile
 to insulate.) Since I am in WI we get a lot of humidity so I don't want to=
 just put hooks in the studs and place the sheet metal on them.&nbsp;</span=
></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-s=
erif; font-size: 12pt;"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-s=
erif; font-size: 12pt;">I am thinking of some sort of wire like hanging a p=
icture with two or three mount points on the wall. But, what should I use f=
or the wire? It needs to be something
 that won't corrode (obviously).</span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-s=
erif; font-size: 12pt;"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I've been in bars and restaurants where there has been big stuff hanging fr=
om the ceiling. I've even seen an F1 car hanging. SO, WTF are they using fo=
r this?&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Sorry for the verbose ask here.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
tim&nbsp;</div>
</body>
</html>

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--===============7303734144202730993==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7303734144202730993==--

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 ISyA==
 7cCWYxZ9hPyRfy2gKgeyaBmW4cNbbofjtxUgPbU=
 Sat, 10 Jul 2021 16:29:10 -0700 (PDT)
References: <DS7PR19MB462908DCC3A7831B2B27F252B4179@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 18:28:59 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hanging heavy shop wall art
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3472424158359096580==

--00000000000055b74c05c6cd416f

When I did something similar, I used a cleat.  I cut a 1x6 in half
lengthwise on the table saw with the blade tilted over to 45 degrees.  This
gave me two pieces of wood that would lock together.  I screwed one to the
wall (aking sure to hit the studs).  I screwed the other to the giant heavy
sign I wanted to hang.  With the Angled part of the cut facing "out" and up
on the wall and out and "down" on the sign.  The angle holds the piece
tight against the wall and the 1x is strong enough to carry a lot of weight.
Here is another use of the same idea.
https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/graphics-pics-for-adjustable-hb-mount_page_5.jpg?w=244&h=300


On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 6:12 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I hesitated to ask this because I think it makes me sound like a moron.
> But, in my defense, I am a moron who can't cut wood to save his life:
> measure six times and STILL frell up the cut. So....here goes:
>
> I finally acquired a Datsun tail gate to hang next to a Datsun Roadster
> hood that is just about totally covered by lichen. I want to hang these so
> they stay on the wall. Shop walls are bare stud. (I started to insulate and
> hang OSB so the wall would be more solid that drywall. Once I notice that
> the fool who built this garage put the untreated 2x4s bare on the slab so
> they are not going to last to make it worthwhile to insulate.) Since I am
> in WI we get a lot of humidity so I don't want to just put hooks in the
> studs and place the sheet metal on them.
>
> I am thinking of some sort of wire like hanging a picture with two or
> three mount points on the wall. But, what should I use for the wire? It
> needs to be something that won't corrode (obviously).
>
> I've been in bars and restaurants where there has been big stuff hanging
> from the ceiling. I've even seen an F1 car hanging. SO, WTF are they using
> for this?
>
> Sorry for the verbose ask here.
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--00000000000055b74c05c6cd416f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>When I did something similar, I used a cleat.=C2=A0 I=
 cut a 1x6 in half lengthwise on the table saw with the blade tilted over t=
o 45 degrees.=C2=A0 This gave me two pieces of wood that would lock togethe=
r.=C2=A0 I screwed one to the wall (aking sure to hit the studs).=C2=A0 I s=
crewed the other to the giant heavy sign I wanted to hang.=C2=A0 With the A=
ngled part of the cut facing &quot;out&quot; and up on the wall and out and=
 &quot;down&quot; on the sign.=C2=A0 The angle holds the piece tight agains=
t the wall and the 1x is strong enough to carry a lot of weight.</div><div>=
Here is another use of the same idea.</div><div><a href=3D"https://rockclim=
berstrainingmanual.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/graphics-pics-for-adjustable=
-hb-mount_page_5.jpg?w=3D244&amp;h=3D300">https://rockclimberstrainingmanua=
l.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/graphics-pics-for-adjustable-hb-mount_page_5.=
jpg?w=3D244&amp;h=3D300</a></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gma=
il_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 6:1=
2 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun=
_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote=
" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);=
padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
I hesitated to ask this because I think it makes me sound like a moron. But=
, in my defense, I am a moron who can&#39;t cut wood to save his life: meas=
ure six times and STILL frell up the cut. So....here goes:=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
I finally acquired a Datsun tail gate to hang next to a Datsun Roadster hoo=
d that is just about totally covered by lichen. I want to hang these so the=
y stay on the wall. Shop walls are bare stud. (I started to insulate and ha=
ng OSB so the wall would be more
 solid that drywall. Once I notice that the fool who built this garage put =
the untreated 2<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetic=
a,sans-serif;font-size:12pt">x4s bare on the slab so they are not going to =
last to make it worthwhile
 to insulate.) Since I am in WI we get a lot of humidity so I don&#39;t wan=
t to just put hooks in the studs and place the sheet metal on them.=C2=A0</=
span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:12pt"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:12pt">I am thinking of some sort of wire like hanging a picture wit=
h two or three mount points on the wall. But, what should I use for the wir=
e? It needs to be something
 that won&#39;t corrode (obviously).</span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:12pt"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
I&#39;ve been in bars and restaurants where there has been big stuff hangin=
g from the ceiling. I&#39;ve even seen an F1 car hanging. SO, WTF are they =
using for this?=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Sorry for the verbose ask here.=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim=C2=A0</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with =
style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro=
wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>

--00000000000055b74c05c6cd416f--

--===============3472424158359096580==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============3472424158359096580==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 30 15:41:05 2021
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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 17:37:24 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
 48o8KEjC6uFyh3ndVTOIOUyZTJ7jVCHpYN8g/JVb1sFeLglj8/6EtBGvp0K4HY+fhcwwtdk18EHcRYDrPNZg/CzhI57x4JJ7y68=
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool for getting frozen nuts loose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


Gang,

Was just talking to a friend on the phone about all kind of things and
working on rusted items.  I was telling him about 2 tools I've seen, but I
can't remember what they are called.  So I thought someone here would
maybe know what I'm talking about.

1. Is a tool that I've seen you put over a nuts, like a manifold nut, and it
uses some sort of magnetic / rf energy to break the item loose.

2. Is neat tool that will let you actually burn a broken bolt out of 
say an engine block.

Anyone know what either or both of these are called?  I want to find a
video of them to send to my friend.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 16:45:28 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tool for getting frozen nuts loose
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 14:54:57 -0700
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20210730173146.04a45a78@cox.net>
 =?UTF-8?Q?2903e8d5c8f:6.0.391,18.0.790,17.0.607.475.0000000_definitions?=
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tool for getting frozen nuts loose
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4241219111417259403==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_3E6DD201-1F2C-4C7F-9B01-9A494FA35171"


--Apple-Mail=_3E6DD201-1F2C-4C7F-9B01-9A494FA35171
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8


For #1, perhaps you are thinking of a inductive heater?

=
https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B=
0851C6Q22/ =
<https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/=
B0851C6Q22/>

No experience, just found that with Google.  Sort of sounds like #2, but =
it doesn=E2=80=99t burn it out, just gets it really hot.

-Darrell

> On Jul 30, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> Gang,
>=20
> Was just talking to a friend on the phone about all kind of things and
> working on rusted items.  I was telling him about 2 tools I've seen, =
but I
> can't remember what they are called.  So I thought someone here would
> maybe know what I'm talking about.
>=20
> 1. Is a tool that I've seen you put over a nuts, like a manifold nut, =
and it
> uses some sort of magnetic / rf energy to break the item loose.
>=20
> 2. Is neat tool that will let you actually burn a broken bolt out of =
say an engine block.
>=20
> Anyone know what either or both of these are called?  I want to find a
> video of them to send to my friend.
>=20
> John
>=20
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>=20
>          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                       65 Rambler Classic
>=20
> Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
> Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org
>=20
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>=20
> =46rom Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>     e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>     In God We Trust
>     Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com
>=20


--Apple-Mail=_3E6DD201-1F2C-4C7F-9B01-9A494FA35171
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>For #1, perhaps you are thinking of a =
inductive heater?<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flamel=
ess/dp/B0851C6Q22/" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Fla=
meless/dp/B0851C6Q22/</a></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">No experience, just found that with Google. &nbsp;Sort of =
sounds like #2, but it doesn=E2=80=99t burn it out, just gets it really =
hot.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">-Darrell<br=
 class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Jul 30, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John T. Blair &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" class=3D"">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Gang,<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Was just =
talking to a friend on the phone about all kind of things and<br =
class=3D"">working on rusted items. &nbsp;I was telling him about 2 =
tools I've seen, but I<br class=3D"">can't remember what they are =
called. &nbsp;So I thought someone here would<br class=3D"">maybe know =
what I'm talking about.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">1. Is a tool that =
I've seen you put over a nuts, like a manifold nut, and it<br =
class=3D"">uses some sort of magnetic / rf energy to break the item =
loose.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">2. Is neat tool that will let you =
actually burn a broken bolt out of say an engine block.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Anyone know what either or both of these are called? &nbsp;I =
want to find a<br class=3D"">video of them to send to my friend.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">John<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">John T. =
Blair &nbsp;WA4OHZ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" class=3D"">email: =
&nbsp;jblair1948@cox.net</a><br class=3D"">Va. Beach, Va =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Phone: &nbsp;(757) 495-8229<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;48 =
TR1800 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;48 #4 Midget &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;65 Morgan 4/4 =
Series V (B1106)<br class=3D""> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;75 Bricklin SV1 =
(#0887) &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;77 Spitfire &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;71 Saab Sonett =
III<br class=3D""> =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;65 Rambler =
Classic<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Morgan: &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/morgan" class=3D"">www.team.net/morgan</a><br =
class=3D"">Bricklin: &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org" class=3D"">www.bricklin.org</a><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">If you can read this =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;- =
Thank a teacher!<br class=3D"">If you are reading it in English - Thank =
a Vet!!<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">=46rom Dennis Prager - The American =
Trilogy:<br class=3D""> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;e pluribus Unum, "from =
many, one."<br class=3D""> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;In God We Trust<br =
class=3D""> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Liberty - the &nbsp;power &nbsp;of =
&nbsp;choosing, &nbsp;thinking, &nbsp;and &nbsp;acting &nbsp;for<br =
class=3D""> =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;oneself; freedom &nbsp;from &nbsp;control =
&nbsp;or &nbsp;restriction<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><br class=3D""><br=
 class=3D""><br class=3D"">-- <br class=3D"">This email has been checked =
for viruses by Avast antivirus software.<br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"https://www.avast.com/antivirus" =
class=3D"">https://www.avast.com/antivirus</a><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4241219111417259403==--

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 <8C78F886-9598-4E9D-8CD4-E0E51B1757BC@mac.com>
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tool for getting frozen nuts loose
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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  I just used the blue wrench (torch) yesterday on some stuff... I 
really like the idea of the heater in the link below, think i will try 
it out

     mike

On 7/30/21 2:54 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
>
> For #1, perhaps you are thinking of a inductive heater?
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/ 
> <https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/>
>
> No experience, just found that with Google.  Sort of sounds like #2, 
> but it doesn’t burn it out, just gets it really hot.
>
> -Darrell
>
>> On Jul 30, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net 
>>
>>
>> Gang,
>>
>> Was just talking to a friend on the phone about all kind of things and
>> working on rusted items.  I was telling him about 2 tools I've seen, 
>> but I
>> can't remember what they are called.  So I thought someone here would
>> maybe know what I'm talking about.
>>
>> 1. Is a tool that I've seen you put over a nuts, like a manifold nut, 
>> and it
>> uses some sort of magnetic / rf energy to break the item loose.
>>
>> 2. Is neat tool that will let you actually burn a broken bolt out of 
>> say an engine block.
>>
>> Anyone know what either or both of these are called?  I want to find a
>> video of them to send to my friend.
>>
>> John
>>
>> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ email:  jblair1948@cox.net 
>> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>>
>>          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>>     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>>                       65 Rambler Classic
>>
>> Morgan: www.team.net/morgan <http://www.team.net/morgan>
>> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org <http://www.bricklin.org>
>>
>> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
>> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>>
>> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>>     e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>>     In God We Trust
>>     Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>>                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists@dinospider.com
>

-- 
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
you'll probably never need one again.


--------------2B20FF697049BF83D2459EF3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"> I just used the blue wrench (torch)
      yesterday on some stuff... I really like the idea of the heater in
      the link below, think i will try it out</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">    mike</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/30/21 2:54 PM, Darrell Walker
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:8C78F886-9598-4E9D-8CD4-E0E51B1757BC@mac.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      For #1, perhaps you are thinking of a inductive heater?
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class=""><a
href="https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/"
          class="" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnetic-Induction-Automotive-Flameless/dp/B0851C6Q22/</a></div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">No experience, just found that with Google.  Sort of
        sounds like #2, but it doesn’t burn it out, just gets it really
        hot.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-Darrell<br class="">
        <div><br class="">
          <blockquote type="cite" class="">
            <div class="">On Jul 30, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John T. Blair
              &lt;<a href="mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" class=""
                moz-do-not-send="true">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
            <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
            <div class="">
              <div class=""><br class="">
                Gang,<br class="">
                <br class="">
                Was just talking to a friend on the phone about all kind
                of things and<br class="">
                working on rusted items.  I was telling him about 2
                tools I've seen, but I<br class="">
                can't remember what they are called.  So I thought
                someone here would<br class="">
                maybe know what I'm talking about.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                1. Is a tool that I've seen you put over a nuts, like a
                manifold nut, and it<br class="">
                uses some sort of magnetic / rf energy to break the item
                loose.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                2. Is neat tool that will let you actually burn a broken
                bolt out of say an engine block.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                Anyone know what either or both of these are called?  I
                want to find a<br class="">
                video of them to send to my friend.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                John<br class="">
                <br class="">
                John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     <a
                  href="mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" class=""
                  moz-do-not-send="true">email:  jblair1948@cox.net</a><br
                  class="">
                Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229<br
                  class="">
                <br class="">
                         48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4
                Series V (B1106)<br class="">
                    75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab
                Sonett III<br class="">
                                      65 Rambler Classic<br class="">
                <br class="">
                Morgan:    <a href="http://www.team.net/morgan" class=""
                  moz-do-not-send="true">www.team.net/morgan</a><br
                  class="">
                Bricklin:     <a href="http://www.bricklin.org" class=""
                  moz-do-not-send="true">www.bricklin.org</a><br
                  class="">
                <br class="">
                If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!<br
                  class="">
                If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!<br
                  class="">
                <br class="">
                From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:<br class="">
                    e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."<br class="">
                    In God We Trust<br class="">
                    Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and
                 acting  for<br class="">
                                 oneself; freedom  from  control  or
                 restriction<br class="">
                <br class="">
                <br class="">
                <br class="">
                <br class="">
                -- <br class="">
                This email has been checked for viruses by Avast
                antivirus software.<br class="">
                <a href="https://www.avast.com/antivirus" class=""
                  moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.avast.com/antivirus</a><br
                  class="">
                <br class="">
                _______________________________________________<br
                  class="">
                <br class="">
                <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class="">
                Donate: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br class="">
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
you'll probably never need one again.</pre>
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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 23:34:15 -0400
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>,shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20210730173146.04a45a78@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tool for getting frozen nuts loose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

1.  Induction bolt 
heater: 
www.amazon.com/Automotive-Flameless-Induction-Hand-held-Thread-Lock/dp/B089D8GSD9/ref=sr_1_4_sspa

2.  EDM 
Machine: 
https://www.amazon.com/SFX-Removal-Portable-Disintegrator-Extractor/dp/B07R6QZR69

Amazon links are just examples.  With the information there I'm sure 
you can find some videos.

-Steve T.


At 05:37 PM 7/30/2021, John T. Blair wrote:

>Gang,
>
>Was just talking to a friend on the phone about all kind of things and
>working on rusted items.  I was telling him about 2 tools I've seen, but I
>can't remember what they are called.  So I thought someone here would
>maybe know what I'm talking about.
>
>1. Is a tool that I've seen you put over a nuts, like a manifold nut, and it
>uses some sort of magnetic / rf energy to break the item loose.
>
>2. Is neat tool that will let you actually burn a broken bolt out of 
>say an engine block.


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Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 23:39:52 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
 Fy0Dce1ebKUGLC0ygQc7NyygG2qgf3bkxKZyvMW4k8PPP5VTL7Kebsz2EqQOpJOqgJW5bdYvCBjYQ3vQxJDpPMIk++eeqmkSuX4=
Subject: [Shop-talk] power hatch opener/closers
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4431804420008763107==
	boundary="=====================_11458242==.ALT"

--=====================_11458242==.ALT


Gang,

You all were so great at my last question, I've got another one for you.

Anyone know how these power hatch opener & closers work?  A neighbor said she
went to pick something up and told the person putting it in the back of her SUV
NOT to close the hatch, she'd get it.  But the person grabbed the 
hatch and pulled
it down.  Ever since it has been intermittant.

I went looking for any info I could find on how they work and I couldn't find
anything.  I was thinking there were linear actuactors.  But if that 
were the case
I don't think they should have been able to close the hatch manually.  I though
a linear actuactor was basically a long bolt (all thread) attached to 
a motor with a
nut that was attached to the item you wanted to more.  If that's the case, then
you shouldn't be able to force the hatch closed as the nut would not 
slide on the
rod and the rod wouldn't turn to let the nut slide down.

So what's in those tubes?  From what I can tell, one is an assist strut (I'm
assuming gas filled) and the other is the actual lifting/closing unit.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




-- 
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--=====================_11458242==.ALT

<html>
<body>
<font size=3><br>
Gang,<br><br>
You all were so great at my last question, I've got another one for
you.<br><br>
Anyone know how these power hatch opener &amp; closers work?&nbsp; A
neighbor said she<br>
went to pick something up and told the person putting it in the back of
her SUV<br>
NOT to close the hatch, she'd get it.&nbsp; But the person grabbed the
hatch and pulled<br>
it down.&nbsp; Ever since it has been intermittant.<br><br>
I went looking for any info I could find on how they work and I couldn't
find <br>
anything.&nbsp; I was thinking there were linear actuactors.&nbsp; But if
that were the case<br>
I don't think they should have been able to close the hatch
manually.&nbsp; I though<br>
a linear actuactor was basically a long bolt (all thread) attached to a
motor with a<br>
nut that was attached to the item you wanted to more.&nbsp; If that's the
case, then<br>
you shouldn't be able to force the hatch closed as the nut would not
slide on the <br>
rod and the rod wouldn't turn to let the nut slide down.<br><br>
So what's in those tubes?&nbsp; From what I can tell, one is an assist
strut (I'm <br>
assuming gas filled) and the other is the actual lifting/closing
unit.<br><br>
John<br><br>
</font><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<br /><br />
<hr style='border:none; color:#909090; background-color:#B0B0B0; height: 1px; width: 99%;' />
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<br />
<a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"> </a></div></body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 23:50:50 -0500
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20210730233319.04cf5990@cox.net>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
 definitions=2021-07-30_11:2021-07-30,
 2021-07-30 signatures=0
 malwarescore=0
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 mlxlogscore=999 adultscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx
 scancount=1 engine=8.0.1-2009150000 definitions=main-2107310023
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] power hatch opener/closers
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4047659091734094389==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-8BDDDFE7-E91B-4407-AAE1-BEAF4226DB65
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

All actuators I=E2=80=99ve seen have been screw & nut but I suppose there co=
uld be some kind of override to allow it to be opened or closed manually in a=
n emergency. I=E2=80=99ll have to look into that one.=20

You say it=E2=80=99s internet. In what way?

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Jul 30, 2021, at 10:42 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

=EF=BB=BF=20
Gang,

You all were so great at my last question, I've got another one for you.

Anyone know how these power hatch opener & closers work?  A neighbor said sh=
e
went to pick something up and told the person putting it in the back of her S=
UV
NOT to close the hatch, she'd get it.  But the person grabbed the hatch and p=
ulled
it down.  Ever since it has been intermittant.

I went looking for any info I could find on how they work and I couldn't fin=
d=20
anything.  I was thinking there were linear actuactors.  But if that were th=
e case
I don't think they should have been able to close the hatch manually.  I tho=
ugh
a linear actuactor was basically a long bolt (all thread) attached to a moto=
r with a
nut that was attached to the item you wanted to more.  If that's the case, t=
hen
you shouldn't be able to force the hatch closed as the nut would not slide o=
n the=20
rod and the rod wouldn't turn to let the nut slide down.

So what's in those tubes?  =46rom what I can tell, one is an assist strut (I=
'm=20
assuming gas filled) and the other is the actual lifting/closing unit.

John



 =09
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.=20
www.avast.com



John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

=46rom Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
     e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
     In God We Trust
     Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for=20
                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction=20


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-8BDDDFE7-E91B-4407-AAE1-BEAF4226DB65
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">All actuators I=E2=80=99ve seen have been s=
crew &amp; nut but I suppose there could be some kind of override to allow i=
t to be opened or closed manually in an emergency. I=E2=80=99ll have to look=
 into that one.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>You say it=E2=80=99s internet. In w=
hat way?</div><div><br></div><div>Peace,</div><div>Pat<br><br><div dir=3D"lt=
r">Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jul 30, 2021, at 10:42 PM, John T. Blair &lt;jb=
lair1948@cox.net&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<font size=3D"3"><br>
Gang,<br><br>
You all were so great at my last question, I've got another one for
you.<br><br>
Anyone know how these power hatch opener &amp; closers work?&nbsp; A
neighbor said she<br>
went to pick something up and told the person putting it in the back of
her SUV<br>
NOT to close the hatch, she'd get it.&nbsp; But the person grabbed the
hatch and pulled<br>
it down.&nbsp; Ever since it has been intermittant.<br><br>
I went looking for any info I could find on how they work and I couldn't
find <br>
anything.&nbsp; I was thinking there were linear actuactors.&nbsp; But if
that were the case<br>
I don't think they should have been able to close the hatch
manually.&nbsp; I though<br>
a linear actuactor was basically a long bolt (all thread) attached to a
motor with a<br>
nut that was attached to the item you wanted to more.&nbsp; If that's the
case, then<br>
you shouldn't be able to force the hatch closed as the nut would not
slide on the <br>
rod and the rod wouldn't turn to let the nut slide down.<br><br>
So what's in those tubes?&nbsp; =46rom what I can tell, one is an assist
strut (I'm <br>
assuming gas filled) and the other is the actual lifting/closing
unit.<br><br>
John<br><br>
</font><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<br><br>
<hr style=3D"border:none; color:#909090; background-color:#B0B0B0; height: 1=
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/a></div>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/morgan" eudora=3D"AUTOURL">
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/" eudora=3D"AUTOURL">www.bricklin.org</a>=

</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=

- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> =46rom Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, "from many,
one."</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>

<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.=
net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span=
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 30 23:58:38 2021
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References: <6.2.5.6.1.20210730233319.04cf5990@cox.net>
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 22:52:34 -0700
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] power hatch opener/closers
Cc: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8125393576496141059==

--000000000000f1324005c864f1ab

My spouse and I discussed it, since I have a car with
one of those closers, too.  We came up with a small
list of possible causes:
1. Messed up screw threads that cause it to "miss" and not
       close well
2. Could it be a bent latch?
3. Is the switch/actuator working properly?
4. Maybe the sensor to tell when it's shut completely is
      misaligned, or damaged, and thinks it's shut when
      it isn't?
When you find the problem, I'd be interested to hear
what it was.

Shannah
2018 Buick Envision "The Moose"

On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 8:41 PM John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

>
> Gang,
>
> You all were so great at my last question, I've got another one for you.
>
> Anyone know how these power hatch opener & closers work?  A neighbor said
> she
> went to pick something up and told the person putting it in the back of
> her SUV
> NOT to close the hatch, she'd get it.  But the person grabbed the hatch
> and pulled
> it down.  Ever since it has been intermittant.
>
> I went looking for any info I could find on how they work and I couldn't
> find
> anything.  I was thinking there were linear actuactors.  But if that were
> the case
> I don't think they should have been able to close the hatch manually.  I
> though
> a linear actuactor was basically a long bolt (all thread) attached to a
> motor with a
> nut that was attached to the item you wanted to more.  If that's the case,
> then
> you shouldn't be able to force the hatch closed as the nut would not slide
> on the
> rod and the rod wouldn't turn to let the nut slide down.
>
> So what's in those tubes?  From what I can tell, one is an assist strut
> (I'm
> assuming gas filled) and the other is the actual lifting/closing unit.
>
> John
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
> <#m_5298863878289192855_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
> Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000f1324005c864f1ab
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>My spouse and I discussed it, since I have a car with=
</div><div>one of those closers, too.=C2=A0 We came up with a small</div><d=
iv>list of possible causes:</div><div>1. Messed up screw threads that cause=
 it to &quot;miss&quot; and not <br></div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0 close well</div><div>2. Could it be a bent latch?</div><div>3. Is=
 the switch/actuator working properly?</div><div>4. Maybe the sensor to tel=
l when it&#39;s shut completely is</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
 misaligned, or damaged, and thinks it&#39;s shut when</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 it isn&#39;t?</div><div>When you find the problem, I&=
#39;d be interested to hear</div><div>what it was.</div><div><br></div><div=
>Shannah</div><div>2018 Buick Envision &quot;The Moose&quot;<br></div></div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fr=
i, Jul 30, 2021 at 8:41 PM John T. Blair &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@c=
ox.net">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,2=
04,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<font size=3D"3"><br>
Gang,<br><br>
You all were so great at my last question, I&#39;ve got another one for
you.<br><br>
Anyone know how these power hatch opener &amp; closers work?=C2=A0 A
neighbor said she<br>
went to pick something up and told the person putting it in the back of
her SUV<br>
NOT to close the hatch, she&#39;d get it.=C2=A0 But the person grabbed the
hatch and pulled<br>
it down.=C2=A0 Ever since it has been intermittant.<br><br>
I went looking for any info I could find on how they work and I couldn&#39;=
t
find <br>
anything.=C2=A0 I was thinking there were linear actuactors.=C2=A0 But if
that were the case<br>
I don&#39;t think they should have been able to close the hatch
manually.=C2=A0 I though<br>
a linear actuactor was basically a long bolt (all thread) attached to a
motor with a<br>
nut that was attached to the item you wanted to more.=C2=A0 If that&#39;s t=
he
case, then<br>
you shouldn&#39;t be able to force the hatch closed as the nut would not
slide on the <br>
rod and the rod wouldn&#39;t turn to let the nut slide down.<br><br>
So what&#39;s in those tubes?=C2=A0 From what I can tell, one is an assist
strut (I&#39;m <br>
assuming gas filled) and the other is the actual lifting/closing
unit.<br><br>
John<br><br>
</font><div id=3D"gmail-m_5298863878289192855DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1=
F9FDF2">
<br><br>
<hr style=3D"border:medium none;color:rgb(144,144,144);background-color:rgb=
(176,176,176);height:1px;width:99%">
<table style=3D"border-collapse:collapse;border:medium none">
	<tbody><tr>
		<td style=3D"border:medium none;padding:0px 15px 0px 8px">
			<a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/antivirus" target=3D"_blank">
				<img src=3D"https://static.avast.com/emails/avast-mail-stamp.png" alt=
=3D"Avast logo" border=3D"0">
			</a>
		</td>
		<td>
			<p style=3D"color:rgb(61,77,90);font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;Ve=
rdana&quot;,&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;Helvetica&quot;;font-size:12pt">
				This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
				<br><a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/antivirus" target=3D"_blank">www.a=
vast.com</a>
			</p>
		</td>
	</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
<a href=3D"#m_5298863878289192855_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" wid=
th=3D"1" height=3D"1"> </a></div></div>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair=C2=A0 WA4OHZ=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 email:=C2=A0
<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net<=
/a></div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
Phone:=C2=A0 (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 48
TR1800=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 48 #4 Midget=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
77 Spitfire=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/morgan" target=3D"_blank">
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
<a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/" target=3D"_blank">www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 In God We Trust</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Liberty - the=C2=A0 power=C2=A0 of=C2=A0
choosing,=C2=A0 thinking,=C2=A0 and=C2=A0 acting=C2=A0 for=C2=A0 </div>
<div>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
oneself; freedom=C2=A0 from=C2=A0 control=C2=A0 or=C2=A0
restriction=C2=A0 </div>
<br>
<br>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/shannahquilts@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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