Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plumbing help requested

From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:51:17 -0400

If it's flexible enough to unsolder and resolder, I'd try that first, you might get lucky, but the pipes need to be dry inside first. I have cleaned and succefully soldered situations like this, but I've also had stubborn joints that wouldn't solder and were a multi-day headache. The Sharkbite needs a smoother surface than a soldering surface, and it's not clear if you'd get that here.

Depending on if you have enough time to bow the pipes dry or not, or skill to solder successfully and quickly, I'd call in a pro.  They can complete it before the white bread plug leaks :-)  

Another thought is a PEX insert that will allow the whole thing to flex without cracking a joint (it's hard to tell if that was a poor solder joint or it cracked). I haven't worked with it in 20 years so I don't know if they still require a soldered fitting on which to crimp the PEX. 

Actually a pro would probably just cut off and rebuild the whole U sectrion in about 30 minutes since they likely have all the tools/parts in the truck. 

jim

> On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:21 PM, Matt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord.  Paid for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the concrete.  I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type fittings.  Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab?
> 
> Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewalk and about a foot down.
> 
> 
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From: Pat Horne <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 12:01:07 -0500

I live in an area with very expansive soil. I’ve had several water joints that have failed over the years. The repair that has worked best for me is a stainless steel flex line like what is used on water heaters. I put a valve box over it for future access if needed. The flex line just screws to pvc or copper fittings. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Habitat for Humanity

On Jun 12, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Matt <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: old dirtbeard <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2021 10:33:53 -0700

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Hi Pat,

That sounds like a splendid option. I do not have need for it at this time,
but will file it away for future use.

Thank you,

Doug

On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 10:01 AM Pat Horne <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I live in an area with very expansive soil. I=E2=80=99ve had several wate=
r joints
> that have failed over the years. The repair that has worked best for me i=
s
> a stainless steel flex line like what is used on water heaters. I put a
> valve box over it for future access if needed. The flex line just screws =
to
> pvc or copper fittings.
> =EF=BB=BF
> Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply
> line to the shop is not going to "heal" of its own accord.  Paid for the
> leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru the
> concrete.  I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type
> fittings.  Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connect t=
he
> 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab?
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Pat,<div><br></div><div>That sounds like a splendid=C2=
=A0option. I do not have need for it at this time, but will file it away fo=
r future use.</div><div><br></div><div>Thank you,</div><div><br></div><div>=
Doug</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gm=
ail_attr">On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 10:01 AM Pat Horne &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I live in an area with very exp=
ansive soil. I=E2=80=99ve had several water joints that have failed over th=
e years. The repair that has worked best for me is a stainless steel flex l=
ine like what is used on water heaters. I put a valve box over it for futur=
e access if needed. The flex line just screws to pvc or copper fittings. <b=
r>
<br>
Peace,<br>
Pat<br>
<br>
Pat Horne <br>
We support Habitat for Humanity<br>
<br>
<br>
On Jun 12, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Matt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" t=
arget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
=EF=BB=BF<br>
Well, after around 4 years I finally decided that the leak in the supply li=
ne to the shop is not going to &quot;heal&quot; of its own accord.=C2=A0 Pa=
id for the leakfinder to come locate it for me and commenced to dig thru th=
e concrete.=C2=A0 I know they have come a long way with the sharkbite type =
fittings.=C2=A0 Any recommendations for a high reliability repair to connec=
t the 3/4 pvc supply to the 3/4 and 1/2 copper coming out of the slab?<br>
<br>
Access is reasonable but not perfect as it is through a hole in the sidewal=
k and about a foot down.<br>
<br>
<br>
&lt;ShopPlumbing1.jpeg&gt;<br>
&lt;ShopPlumbingCloseup_LI.jpg&gt;<br>
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From: Thomas Coradeschi <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2021 13:40:32 -0400

I would keep it simple. Cut both copper lines and the PVC line and rebuild it all. You’re looking at maybe 20 bucks worth of material, and working with new will be infinitely easier than trying to make the old stuff work, worrying about heat damaging the PVC and all the rest. 

Tom Coradeschi
[email-masked]

> On Jun 12, 2021, at 12:31 PM, Matt <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
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