Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Trailer clean-up and paint

From: Bob Spidell via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:03:36 -0700

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I've used Permatex 'Rust Treatment' a couple times and had good results:

*https://tinyurl.com/y7z78aew

*As an experiment, I treated a wheelbarrow with surface rust with it (no 
sanding or wire-brushing).  It goes on clear then turns the rusty parts 
black, which indicates to me there is actual chemical conversion.  I 
then painted it with the usual enamel rattle-can paint. After 20 years 
or so outside the paint is faded but there is no rust.  I'm a believer.

Recently, I 'restored' my late father's fire hydrant--someone gave it to 
him, I think because he was restoring a fire engine--which had several 
coats of paint and considerable rust. I spent an hour or so with a wire 
wheel on a 4.5" grinder to get it down to (mostly) bare metal, but with 
some rust remaining.  I painted it with RustOleum rust converter paint 
which came out like black paint but was about half the cost of the 
Permatex; it took more paint to cover it.  My guess is it's just black 
paint with some rust treatment additives, but it's just a guess.

Bob

**
On 5/10/2020 10:34 AM, Ronnie Day via Shop-talk wrote:
> I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utility 
> trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original 
> paint is worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it 
> to the quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.
>
> I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is, 
> doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to 
> remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area 
> with rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get 
> off, then move to the next section.
>
> Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like 
> magic, what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and 
> protection, not a car show finish.
>
> RD
>

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    I've used Permatex 'Rust Treatment' a couple times and had good
    results:<br>
    <br>
    <b><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://tinyurl.com/y7z78aew">https://tinyurl.com/y7z78aew</a><br>
      <br>
    </b>As an experiment, I treated a wheelbarrow with surface rust with
    it (no sanding or wire-brushing).  It goes on clear then turns the
    rusty parts black, which indicates to me there is actual chemical
    conversion.  I then painted it with the usual enamel rattle-can
    paint. After 20 years or so outside the paint is faded but there is
    no rust.  I'm a believer.  <br>
    <br>
    Recently, I 'restored' my late father's fire hydrant--someone gave
    it to him, I think because he was restoring a fire engine--which had
    several coats of paint and considerable rust. I spent an hour or so
    with a wire wheel on a 4.5" grinder to get it down to (mostly) bare
    metal, but with some rust remaining.  I painted it with RustOleum
    rust converter paint which came out like black paint but was about
    half the cost of the Permatex; it took more paint to cover it.  My
    guess is it's just black paint with some rust treatment additives,
    but it's just a guess.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <b></b><br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/10/2020 10:34 AM, Ronnie Day via
      Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAMHhs6csTS8AWUOr=[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built,
        wood decked utility trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame
        construction. The original paint is worn, a lot, and there's
        considerable surface rust. I took it to the quarter car wash and
        cleaned it up as best I could.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so
          the plan is, doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes
          and a detail sander to remove as much of the loose paint as I
          can, and then hit that area with rattle can primer/paint to
          "seal/convert" the rust I can't get off, then move to the next
          section.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work
          like magic, what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for
          durability and protection, not a car show finish.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>RD</div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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_______________________________________________

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From: Karl Vacek via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:23:57 -0500

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I've used RustOleum Rust Reformer for years with excellent results.  It 
applies milky white but clears as it dries and turns the rust black.  On 
some old unused, rusty patio furniture I applied the Rust Reformer with no 
other preparation and then left it outside with no paint for several years. 
 Never rusted again.
Karl

On May 10, 2020 12:37:42 PM Ronnie Day via Shop-talk 
<[email-masked]> wrote:
> trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original paint is 
> worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it to the 
> quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.
>
> remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area with 
> rattle can primer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get off, then 
> move to the next section.
>
> Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like magic, 
> what actually does a decent job? I'm looking for durability and protection, 
> not a car show finish.
>
> RD
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"auto">I've used RustOleum Rust Reformer for years with excellen=
t results.&nbsp; It applies milky white but clears as it dries and turns th=
e rust black.&nbsp; On some old unused, rusty patio furniture I applied the=
 Rust Reformer with no other preparation and then left it outside with no p=
aint for several years.&nbsp; Never rusted again.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Ka=
rl</div><div dir=3D'auto'><br></div>
<div id=3D"aqm-original" style=3D"color: black;">
<!-- body start -->
<div class=3D"aqm-original-body">
<div style=3D"color: black;">
<p style=3D"color: black; font-size: 10pt; font-family: sans-serif; margin:=
 8pt 0;">On May 10, 2020 12:37:42 PM Ronnie Day via Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk=
@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 0.75=
ex; border-left: 1px solid #808080; padding-left: 0.75ex;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decke=
d utility trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original=
 paint is worn, a lot, and there's considerable surface rust. I took it to =
the quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.<div><br></div><div>=
I'm not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan is, doin=
g a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to remove as=
 much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area with rattle can p=
rimer/paint to "seal/convert" the rust I can't get off, then move to the ne=
xt section.</div><div><br></div><div>Realizing there are products out there=
 that supposedly work like magic, what actually does a decent job? I'm look=
ing for durability and protection, not a car show finish.</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>RD</div></div>

<div>_______________________________________________</div>
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From: Eric Russell via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 15:56:19 -0400

I'll add my success with the Permatex Rust Conversion (spray can & brush 
applied). In my experience, it seems to work best when applied to rust - 
no need to take it down to clean, bare metal, just degrease and knock 
off anything loose.

POR15 is another option but more expensive. And POR15 needs UV 
protection to retain its color. As I recall, you need to apply a thin 
'mist' coat of paint while the POR15 is still tacky.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

[email-masked]

---

From: "Tom Shirley Sr. via Shop-talk" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 21:05:42 -0400

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I built a Factory Five Cobra replica about 15 years ago. Painted the frame
with POR-15 and then painted over that with black enamel. No rust after all
these years.

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 4:01 PM Eric Russell via Shop-talk <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-family:garamond,times new roman,serif;font-size:large;color:#0000ff">I bu=
ilt a Factory Five Cobra replica about 15 years ago. Painted the frame with=
 POR-15 and then painted over that with black enamel. No rust after all the=
se years.<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cl=
ass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 4:01 PM Eric Russell via Shop-ta=
lk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">=
I&#39;ll add my success with the Permatex Rust Conversion (spray can &amp; =
brush <br>
applied). In my experience, it seems to work best when applied to rust - <b=
r>
no need to take it down to clean, bare metal, just degrease and knock <br>
off anything loose.<br>
<br>
POR15 is another option but more expensive. And POR15 needs UV <br>
protection to retain its color. As I recall, you need to apply a thin <br>
&#39;mist&#39; coat of paint while the POR15 is still tacky.<br>
<br>
Eric Russell<br>
Mebane, NC<br>
<br>
On 5/10/2020 1:34 PM, Ronnie Day via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
&gt; I&#39;m cleaning up and rebuilding a locally built, wood decked utilit=
y <br>
&gt; trailer. Typical angle iron/tube frame construction. The original <br>
&gt; paint is worn, a lot, and there&#39;s considerable surface rust. I too=
k it <br>
&gt; to the quarter car wash and cleaned it up as best I could.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; I&#39;m not inclined to have the whole thing media blasted so the plan=
 is, <br>
&gt; doing a section at a time, to use wire brushes and a detail sander to =
<br>
&gt; remove as much of the loose paint as I can, and then hit that area <br=
&gt; with rattle can primer/paint to &quot;seal/convert&quot; the rust I ca=
n&#39;t get <br>
&gt; off, then move to the next section.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Realizing there are products out there that supposedly work like <br>
&gt; magic, what actually does a decent job? I&#39;m looking for durability=
 and <br>
&gt; protection, not a car show finish.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; RD<br>
<br>
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