_______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/piper= mail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net= ">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net

Please le= t us know how it turns out.

I love finding stuf= f @ the restore!

Pat Horne

We support Habi= tat for Humanity

On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:27 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-t= alk@autox.team.net> wrote:

=EF= =BB=BF

I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled hous= e and have come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with= . I need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which= will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocke= t door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed t= he kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80= =9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibl= y shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99= t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different. &nbs= p;I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we= went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if they had= anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. = To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style door= s for $50 each that would look really good in the house. They are soli= d wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D= thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back= if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.

There is a possibility that I mig= ht be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the= opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. I will try that, but doubt the wall t= olerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option= - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. &nbs= p;This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4= =E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing t= he entire width of the door.

(For what it is wor= th, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to twe= ak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cu= tting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D.

I currently have a good bench top pl= aner that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that= might work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or anot= her tool that would do the job. We are probably looking at more than $= 1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lot= s of room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think?= Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. &n= bsp;Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? &nbs= p;They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but t= hey do have to be smooth and even.

As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!=

Jim

__= _____________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/dona= te.html
Suggested annual donation $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar= chive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team= .net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com
=

= --Apple-Mail-9B4F19B7-F668-48FB-9E57-7499DFB124FD-- --===============6729879763369289987== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============6729879763369289987==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 07:57:57 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A4B22A0C7A for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 07:57:57 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net Received: from relay2-d.mail.gandi.net (unknown [217.70.183.194]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 1AE38A0C16 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 07:57:51 -0700 (MST) Received: from [192.168.1.135] (c-73-253-103-15.hsd1.ma.comcast.net [73.253.103.15]) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by relay2-d.mail.gandi.net (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 79D8640002; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 14:57:50 +0000 (UTC) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:57:48 -0500 To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> References: Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk Cc: Shop Talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net --===============6090761043848864575== boundary="Apple-Mail=_25230D44-8AA8-4C5B-AB33-079EC165B29F"; protocol="application/pkcs7-signature"; micalg=sha1 --Apple-Mail=_25230D44-8AA8-4C5B-AB33-079EC165B29F Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 I took a cabinetmaking class at a state university and they had a giant = belt sander that was set up like a planer. Maybe ask around the local = colleges/votechs? I would not attenpt it with a hand planer, I think that's too inaccurate = a tool for surfaces wider than the planer. jim > On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk = wrote: >=20 > I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have = come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I = need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will = slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, = but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the = kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80= =9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or = possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she = doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try = something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she = shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore = yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, = at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, = really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really = good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only = problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, = figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good = way to make them work.=20 >=20 > There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by = tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. = I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it = doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - = is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the = stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am = not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =20 > (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are = currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the = cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D= x 29=E2=80=9D. =20 >=20 > I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see = anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of = course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do = the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80= =99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the = budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely = take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. Is an electric = hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be = painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have = to be smooth and even. >=20 > As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all! >=20 > Jim > _______________________________________________ >=20 > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk = http://autox.team.net/archive >=20 > Unsubscribe/Manage: = http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org >=20 --Apple-Mail=_25230D44-8AA8-4C5B-AB33-079EC165B29F Content-Disposition: attachment; filename=smime.p7s name=smime.p7s Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 MIAGCSqGSIb3DQEHAqCAMIACAQExCzAJBgUrDgMCGgUAMIAGCSqGSIb3DQEHAQAAoIIDSDCCA0Qw ggIsoAMCAQICCmRy66DpH1wZiAswDQYJKoZIhvcNAQELBQAwUDEaMBgGA1UEAxMRSmFtZXMgRy4g RnJhbmtsaW4xJTAjBgkqhkiG9w0BCQEWFmphbWVzZkBncm91cHdiZW5jaC5vcmcxCzAJBgNVBAYT AlVTMB4XDTE3MDQxNTE0NDgxMloXDTIyMDQxNTE0NDgxMlowUDEaMBgGA1UEAxMRSmFtZXMgRy4g RnJhbmtsaW4xJTAjBgkqhkiG9w0BCQEWFmphbWVzZkBncm91cHdiZW5jaC5vcmcxCzAJBgNVBAYT AlVTMIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAmEusUttRQMymOSw8elNOep/BrnU9 MEmZNOH2Pz7+YgLwLBWCq7Yx2JCyeC4XvqMzdB2aPe4KyhWrcSsMirm0Kp/HfBfxf6xaYClOEhDE okCRDuGyNJaso8ZNzkxH84wGm3i0TemqNEaHhKIAJxcHU+RXSIgTBJW4VLQudHkqZ8xXSJPMKVU2 T13H0wosQ85EhieWt/RlvDYIMsO/0VMmr8NxLALM2PHSf/ejewuQXZ2YsLBg7fKiiM5DJ5rm5AWU bJLePVJFXCpKmOtVwtcqcgnMdmgW9MH9aIXshkdGyIlapyDmuOjVi5CmHP6/Gxk2FiIu+MsbWVdX BU0Y7B9EpQIDAQABoyAwHjAPBgkqhkiG9y8BAQoEAgUAMAsGA1UdDwQEAwIHgDANBgkqhkiG9w0B AQsFAAOCAQEAWvruNG4aYeyRq57pOCVVwJ7ybSMdI0t+xXxlx9srybW3LZpkw2YiY88S5g/XdTAW UNj4Lc2w2STE6vh5ZB2qAOHAkppdEXwA7g8xTI9ozvgFQtqPpodapj8Kd17TU5/qkATNLq9tQpUZ c06Klg2+Oh4Z2DijTo4uh/UXlr6VxrGtbW6lGkH4ZbvkLqiJUgGEPDpbzNIS/q6ZcdnaPwaWdwzH SVQK7eztRMmpmBhxXTc/dgZCXnSOjlsbn+TKFVBCyJLQXRP+YrhY1BtOvJ36Ul3LImX5g2vGMPDi HyWnGi7CoqZpdkOYIGJW89P0qOOVXptIUckSDP0sVz9u98tgsTGCAeQwggHgAgEBMF4wUDEaMBgG A1UEAxMRSmFtZXMgRy4gRnJhbmtsaW4xJTAjBgkqhkiG9w0BCQEWFmphbWVzZkBncm91cHdiZW5j aC5vcmcxCzAJBgNVBAYTAlVTAgpkcuug6R9cGYgLMAkGBSsOAwIaBQCgXTAYBgkqhkiG9w0BCQMx CwYJKoZIhvcNAQcBMBwGCSqGSIb3DQEJBTEPFw0xOTEyMjIxNDU3NDhaMCMGCSqGSIb3DQEJBDEW BBRvB6w1V4Noe5AeRip23Nh3vs9W3DANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAASCAQB9eAseZesvpodyrJN5zDQU rOAvPEqjU6YhVE0eA4jkcmTP5LGHeCdiZw5MXcFW6H4H93BP6fj1ZqsO0nB7+FRmcJHK0v5/5S7m ALzMAIkQTibJ6DJymhatH0CiIZewVgYLx289lVqVgrEqa33sNFOcoRfDvkMe6kX0Ty2WMLY+kxr8 4/LpaowvD/UAtYXSu1F6PLyQ583IVQORu5jlUYFlReypGPV2pM7ngbvFm/UM+Feb0d5uJx2kJJ+k C8RG/+syTioFOpy4RlFQvnDG8bqfAkXr9W2bVWyK5indvWx/JAMPyeXSB8eV7Ri53djze64DGqYa xKZEXbgAwZrfcR1YAAAAAAAA --Apple-Mail=_25230D44-8AA8-4C5B-AB33-079EC165B29F-- --===============6090761043848864575== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============6090761043848864575==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 08:07:55 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EBB77A0CC2 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:07:55 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from smtp.centurylink.net (unknown [206.152.134.66]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5B752A0C8F for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:07:23 -0700 (MST) q=dns/txt; i=@mebtel.net; t=1577027242; h=From:Subject:Date:To:MIME-Version:Content-Type; bh=ID5klLF0QVqdgOTAMECqOzFV+38=; b=yWF73yYqZp4HBNcW/+Oxtw2cHWIo2g3j6rihPDGi/gTeh/p2hv4pJgy75OCcArcg QhLUgnhJggv08zviARrAC6iNJJ+Ii1N/L0AJHHn7QsF3LYdEt7HLnOct5uJxwqsv wvf08aOpv4qlDTQOdCMMwNurunfHAgVn9Y5K20KSCdfiQHvTxlLy1Xm7CLaDmMeq dcWvA41K9Lbkz+h+rZw50TyVDPK/EoJ+POB8aHYjy7ebdsK4p+xYMs/EY0y1mn6X SGBPrBGGSFe+35vN3uys0C8X0ZZqtn83AjPIHHo75SkcviXKfxlaCct+kTneyoXd gvB/Qa2SjoK353o9UOUyPA==; X_CMAE_Category: , , a=I0wsP0/ub+0M/VQyKFHlEA==:117 a=I0wsP0/ub+0M/VQyKFHlEA==:17 a=jpOVt7BSZ2e4Z31A5e1TngXxSK0=:19 a=KGjhK52YXX0A:10 a=pxVhFHJ0LMsA:10 a=KlU2pWyFyn8A:10 a=eQrCS-SpgXYA:10 a=r77TgQKjGQsHNAKrUKIA:9 a=rlbQdu65AAAA:8 a=cGkHjDSiAAAA:8 a=FZ7fgvgIAAAA:8 a=LiTX0Xqe919xg6UYhREA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=bum8RpsXV2YA:10 a=jOtMDFzUS0QA:10 a=9SoVnbUWMTAA:10 a=pGLkceISAAAA:8 a=8gvXfrLHYyyuFQ-ZN1sA:9 a=zoEkX6_uQXFzJSGo:21 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=id8kgjkPOZNF0R6cz3Gv:22 a=7AwB7WAtWYo01OmjkThX:22 a=m-RIUah7vEbLFsxBHQdD:22 Feedback-ID: dfw:ctl:res:onyx Authentication-Results: smtp03.onyx.dfw.sync.lan smtp.user=ejrussell@mebtel.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) Received: from [99.194.29.42] ([99.194.29.42:25733] helo=[192.168.0.5]) by smtp.centurylink.net (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.6.25.56547 r(Core:3.6.25.0)) with ESMTPSA (cipher=DHE-RSA-AES128-SHA) id EA/3A-30619-AA68FFD5; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:07:22 -0500 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net References: <7365a315-2125-3b85-c03d-ca0e07ce5d10@gmail.com> Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:07:22 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:68.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/68.3.1 Content-Language: en-US Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Eric Russell via Shop-talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============0848371179885434473== boundary="------------26749A82103741B9ECA729A3" Content-Language: en-US This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------26749A82103741B9ECA729A3 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander. I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an outrageous amount to run them through the machine. http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty price...). https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html Eric Russell Mebane, NC On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote: > > Maybe a drum sander like this ... > https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z > ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the > door as you do each edge. > > On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: >> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have >> come up with a problem I would like the groupâ€™s help with. Â I need to >> put up a pair of 8â€™ x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next >> to a tall kitchen cabinet. Â So, not exactly a pocket door, but it >> needs to fit into a pocket. --------------26749A82103741B9ECA729A3 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander. I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an outrageous amount to run them through the machine.

http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders

Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty price...).

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote:

Maybe a drum sander like this ... https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door as you do each edge.

On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:

I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the groupâ€™s help with. Â I need to put up a pair of 8â€™ x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. Â So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.

--------------26749A82103741B9ECA729A3-- --===============0848371179885434473== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============0848371179885434473==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 08:21:17 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DB910A0CE5 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:21:17 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ot1-f53.google.com (unknown [209.85.210.53]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8B2AFA0C5D for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:21:13 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-ot1-f53.google.com with SMTP id 77so18675964oty.6 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 07:21:13 -0800 (PST) h=mime-version:references:in-reply-to:from:date:message-id:subject:to :cc; bh=jzONyew5zlh40N1B8SWHwtptMVvjnAm/2d/XE5BBXvI=; b=dU/lhLdIijW0RGzM2bdA8/6qp/nev20q0WB35PVMxyduVpGEFx83ytGyd+GCna2S2W oZaioTAoiwRzVf5M8kGWfU0EXeUQDbTthykOOq1GYrnlR9fx5RWQnlUY+MhiHsN5HGIS /SGNjMn7XMKKRtTX0fZIGTHD6Y5UQIoVZAVVMfIMOoFFBMDIAUuK45ZBGZWXODMPUVsk tzYNFbYHu1r/2ADTVK+EHXNDdPd0mU9sFzs4bcf2FyEE1lmfrtXwESRf4YqpcAMl0YoZ zd6X5A9DSP2vWcF9bzKD5SgxvMOOP1FNHk7tIH+AkgyrOa+AkruazUscSxpYDzXNGWd7 BkmQ== d=1e100.net; s=20161025; h=x-gm-message-state:mime-version:references:in-reply-to:from:date :message-id:subject:to:cc; bh=jzONyew5zlh40N1B8SWHwtptMVvjnAm/2d/XE5BBXvI=; b=nHicMqTIZ05bUSG4oNw9mBHuod0ftMBmDpTWipCsJg7vJ1ZTgFCRAf7R7lJhv6xDi3 fTkJSQWWmdGz3kuPCz4umCUcv4KjxX6I//MFSGlNCiUgWZKLcLxDW6U68eXffVCZpp3e dRPEdxPi/pZQIJuKvBnvOcmLF+KBEbaEKE68MX3Up/GaqVro4t8rRpEmRP7gWBCfUlDs QX9joXw8cwSSeaTqXmqqB4yQD0J9IqU3W4/kqoB3j7KpMuT0Onrd98jAyRgaWuPLioL8 GSwxw6Q/zGqhl9nPz7W/l/JgjIngoXoDpt6Eq/0TNU7sRp8VxFBYB7EI97BfXZf/FHBP oWXQ== AdinVT2+ntQBBUo8PCp91B1VpPCorc591fh19ls= Sun, 22 Dec 2019 07:21:12 -0800 (PST) References: <7365a315-2125-3b85-c03d-ca0e07ce5d10@gmail.com> Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:21:06 -0600 To: Eric Russell Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: John Innis via Shop-talk Cc: shop-talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net --===============3456294594511033576== --000000000000177ee4059a4c7646 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is the direction I was thinking. There is a CNC router kit from a outfit called Maslow that will do 4x8 sheets of plywood. Something like this should be adaptable to meet your needs. https://www.maslowcnc.com/ On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 9:08 AM Eric Russell via Shop-talk < shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote: > Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door > making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander. > I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an > outrageous amount to run them through the machine. > > http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders > > Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would > allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of > aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty > price...). > > https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > > On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote: > > Maybe a drum sander like this ... > https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander= -w-VS-Feed/G0458Z > ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door a= s > you do each edge. > On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote: > > I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come > up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to = put up a > pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a= tall > kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into= a > pocket. > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com > > --=20 =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D Never offend people with style when you =3D =3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown =3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D --000000000000177ee4059a4c7646 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This is the direction I was thinking.=C2=A0 There is = a CNC router kit from a outfit called Maslow that will do 4x8 sheets of ply= wood.=C2=A0 Something like this should be adaptable to meet your needs.

https://www.maslowcnc.com/

On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 9:08 AM Eric Russell via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> wro= te:

=20 =20 =20

Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander. I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an outrageous amount to run them through the machine.

http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders

Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty price...).

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flatteni= ng-mill.html

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote:

=20
Maybe a drum sander like this ... https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End= -Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door as you do each edge.

On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:

=20
I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.=C2=A0 I need to put up a pair of 8= =E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.=C2=A0 So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@aut= ox.team.net
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk htt= p://autox.team.net/archive

alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te= am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with = style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro= wn=C2=A0 =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--000000000000177ee4059a4c7646-- --===============3456294594511033576== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============3456294594511033576==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 08:36:08 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E2C75A0CCF for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:36:08 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from chumdrop.sackheads.org (unknown [159.203.76.21]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 76AEBA0A2F for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:36:02 -0700 (MST) Received: from localhost (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by chumdrop.sackheads.org (Postfix) with ESMTP id 296E416FBFD for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:36:02 -0500 (EST) Received: from chumdrop.sackheads.org ([127.0.0.1]) by localhost (chumdrop.sackheads.org [127.0.0.1]) (amavisd-new, port 10024) with ESMTP id dog5shFMOUbO for ; 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[67.82.105.23]) by smtp.gmail.com with ESMTPSA id z141sm4996845qkb.63.2019.12.22.09.59.00 for (version=TLS1_2 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-AES128-GCM-SHA256 bits=128/128); Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:59:00 -0800 (PST) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:58:58 -0500 References: To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net --===============0616461235672955828== boundary="Apple-Mail=_873E13A6-4AA8-430F-89FC-4514BCD5DA71" --Apple-Mail=_873E13A6-4AA8-430F-89FC-4514BCD5DA71 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Thanks, guys! While I was hoping the planer was a viable option, I = didn=E2=80=99t really expect it to work, so I appreciate being talked = out of it before I screwed anything up. Some additional comments on the = recommendations: I like the Grizzly open belt sander! However, it would cost about as = much as just buying custom doors, so I will probably pass on that, = unless I get lucky and find a used one. I=E2=80=99ll look around, just = to be safe. Same thing for the router jig. I had considered using a router, but = didn=E2=80=99t know how I=E2=80=99d get the cut even. One of those jigs = would certainly do the trick, but probably be cost prohibitive. Still, = I=E2=80=99ll research it a bit more. Unfortunately, modifying the wall isn=E2=80=99t an option. The door in = the pocket is one of a pair and the total wall is about 24 ft long (and = 18=E2=80=99 high), so we=E2=80=99d be remodeling the entire house again = at that point! Modifying the cabinets isn=E2=80=99t an option either, although moving = them a bit is possible. Still, this is a wall of cabinets and there is = an oven hood in the mix that would also need to move, so the total = effort would be more work than anything I could run into with the doors. On idea I considered after sending my note this morning was something = based on floor sanding equipment. e.g. Screw steel stock to the sides = of the door with a 1/8=E2=80=9D reveal, rig something around the center = to give myself a stop on the other side, and then use a large rotary = sander. I think it might work, but like some of the other ideas, = probably be more trouble than the project is worth. Still, I am = throwing it out in case it gives anyone another idea. So, that brings me back to the most frequent suggestion: find a cabinet = maker. I casually know a couple, but didn=E2=80=99t think they=E2=80=99d = have something wide enough. I assumed they did all of their milling to = the base stock, before assembly and wouldn=E2=80=99t have the need to = thin something this wide. Knowing the tools exist and are frequently = used gives me hope for that option, which I will pursue, if necessary. = First, I am going to try to get lucky and make them work without = modification. It is theoretically possible to mill down the = =E2=80=99stands=E2=80=99 for the track and make it all work. I have an = extra set of stands, thanks to a previous mistake custom fitting the = barn door track, so I have nothing to lose. If I get lucky (I=E2=80=99m = putting my odds at no better than 1:10), it will all fit perfectly and = I=E2=80=99ll be done. If not, I=E2=80=99ll reach out to the cabinet = makers and see if they can help me. Worst case is that the doors go = back to ReStore and I try something different. Thanks again. I=E2=80=99ll report back when there is a final resolution = to the issue. =20 Jim > On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> wrote: >=20 > I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have = come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I = need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will = slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, = but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the = kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80= =9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or = possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she = doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try = something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she = shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore = yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, = at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, = really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really = good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only = problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, = figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good = way to make them work.=20 >=20 > There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by = tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. = I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it = doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - = is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the = stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am = not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =20 > (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are = currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the = cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D= x 29=E2=80=9D. =20 >=20 > I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see = anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of = course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do = the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80= =99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the = budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely = take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. Is an electric = hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be = painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have = to be smooth and even. >=20 > As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all! >=20 > Jim --Apple-Mail=_873E13A6-4AA8-430F-89FC-4514BCD5DA71 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Thanks, guys! While I was hoping the planer was a = viable option, I didn=E2=80=99t really expect it to work, so I = appreciate being talked out of it before I screwed anything up. = Some additional comments on the recommendations:

I like the Grizzly open belt sander! However, it would = cost about as much as just buying custom doors, so I will probably pass = on that, unless I get lucky and find a used one. I=E2=80=99ll look = around, just to be safe.
Same thing for the router = jig. I had considered using a router, but didn=E2=80=99t know how = I=E2=80=99d get the cut even. One of those jigs would certainly do = the trick, but probably be cost prohibitive. Still, I=E2=80=99ll = research it a bit more.
Unfortunately, modifying the = wall isn=E2=80=99t an option. The door in the pocket is one of a = pair and the total wall is about 24 ft long (and 18=E2=80=99 high), so = we=E2=80=99d be remodeling the entire house again at that point!
Modifying the cabinets isn=E2=80=99t an option either, = although moving them a bit is possible. Still, this is a wall of = cabinets and there is an oven hood in the mix that would also need to = move, so the total effort would be more work than anything I could run = into with the doors.
On idea I considered after = sending my note this morning was something based on floor sanding = equipment. e.g. Screw steel stock to the sides of the door with a = 1/8=E2=80=9D reveal, rig something around the center to give myself a = stop on the other side, and then use a large rotary sander. I = think it might work, but like some of the other ideas, probably be more = trouble than the project is worth. Still, I am throwing it out in = case it gives anyone another idea.

So, that brings me back to the most = frequent suggestion: find a cabinet maker. I casually know a = couple, but didn=E2=80=99t think they=E2=80=99d have something wide = enough. I assumed they did all of their milling to the base stock, = before assembly and wouldn=E2=80=99t have the need to thin something = this wide. Knowing the tools exist and are frequently used gives = me hope for that option, which I will pursue, if necessary. First, = I am going to try to get lucky and make them work without modification. = It is theoretically possible to mill down the =E2=80=99stands=E2=80=99= for the track and make it all work. I have an extra set of = stands, thanks to a previous mistake custom fitting the barn door track, = so I have nothing to lose. If I get lucky (I=E2=80=99m putting my = odds at no better than 1:10), it will all fit perfectly and I=E2=80=99ll = be done. If not, I=E2=80=99ll reach out to the cabinet makers and = see if they can help me. Worst case is that the doors go back to = ReStore and I try something different.

Thanks again. I=E2=80=99ll report = back when there is a final resolution to the issue.

Jim

On Dec = 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> wrote:

I am = installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up = with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need = to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide = in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, = but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the = kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80= =9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or = possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she = doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try = something different. I wanted to install something temporary while = she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s = ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the = trick, at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair = of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would = look really good in the house. They are solid wood, I think = poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. = I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if = there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.

There is a possibility = that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door = hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. I will try that, = but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99= t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to = narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, = since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, = so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =
(For what it is worth, I should add here = that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to = make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them = down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D.

I currently have a good bench top = planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand = planer that might work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a = new one or another tool that would do the job. We are probably = looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my = wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. = So, what does the group think? Can I safely take about = 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. Is an electric hand = planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be = painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have = to be smooth and even.

As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to = all!

Jim

= --Apple-Mail=_873E13A6-4AA8-430F-89FC-4514BCD5DA71-- --===============0616461235672955828== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============0616461235672955828==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 11:03:41 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 32478A0E29 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 11:03:41 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from resqmta-po-07v.sys.comcast.net (unknown [96.114.154.166]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CCBE7A0E24 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 11:03:37 -0700 (MST) Received: from resomta-po-08v.sys.comcast.net ([96.114.154.232]) by resqmta-po-07v.sys.comcast.net with ESMTP id j5Nei4LLYVvhKj5ZpiwruS; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 18:03:37 +0000 d=comcastmailservice.net; s=20180828_2048; t=1577037817; bh=1pPyUaVi0oNLB2OXuBFoGxvS6mD17CvfFH59oC4Kx6g=; h=Received:Received:Subject:To:From:Reply-To:Message-ID:Date: MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=e1bybxcGMSgLQA1h+iY+dRht2Xjffjfdy3UsypA+H7jfNayW8u6186kMwEoKMavXy PgvN4pNTBHxER4HzA9skgHAGj250ks30XeizJjdZ4DMbR2VmSwJ6dzyvk+qJBS0UaH oNEae5CXWWHdKpGS+uPdMM923bc3RNLSvOfpI9F+tIQ1zB13LlgR1+bdirCfiB46M7 dmjNuD5pjjh045gEeIG2f0vXQCAIbD//j0ZiPoK4UFXzt/BtgErYMy0y0NfcloiBsw emog4r82ikel7t5Vj6vT5mlfx9yVw8JJ43VnLlYCcmRS29bxm34ppNhznH4N/Em7Nd jH40t/Fxj92/g== Received: from [IPv6:::1] ([IPv6:2601:645:502:a1d0:34a5:3118:aadb:4c0]) by resomta-po-08v.sys.comcast.net with ESMTPSA id j5ZniN3qFHd6pj5Zois6cy; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 18:03:36 +0000 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net References: Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:03:35 -0800 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:68.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/68.3.1 Content-Language: en-US Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Mark Miller via Shop-talk Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net You might consider using a router to take off the 1/8" off an inch or so on the inside (panel) side of the rails (fairly easy to do using the rest of the rail as a base to run on) and then running the door vertically over a table saw to thin the rest of the rails. Alternately: can you take a bit off the back of the cabinet? Either in place with an oscillating saw where needed or pull the cabinet, modify, then replace? Or just slide the cabinet out from the wall a bit more than it is? Regards, Mark Miller 707-490-5834 markmiller@threeboysfarm.com > Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:26:14 -0500 > From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> > To: Shop Talk > Subject: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group?s help with. I need to put up a pair of 8? x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8? - 1 1/2? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn?t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity?s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the o > nly problem is that they are 1 3/4? thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn?t a good way to make them work. > > There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8?. I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn?t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4? and 8?, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. > (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84? x 29?. > > I currently have a good bench top planer that I can?t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely take about 1/8? off each face of these doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even. > > As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all! > > Jim > _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 11:09:14 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D9311A0EAC for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 11:09:14 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ot1-f41.google.com (unknown [209.85.210.41]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6B4DAA0A72 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 11:09:11 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-ot1-f41.google.com with SMTP id k14so19063324otn.4 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:09:11 -0800 (PST) d=1e100.net; s=20161025; h=x-gm-message-state:mime-version:references:in-reply-to:reply-to :from:date:message-id:subject:to:cc; bh=7dRgcBg9/NHuHRVxsQpw1rFlhaFhco4NgV1RVLwkaX0=; b=jkJCZ6rUu4Bnwk258oLMchp4gS0MJBttQezGMlEOHza+02JiQk8Ftif9M2q/0jCZH0 Yw5o5gCFHwNksDR1RdPToHKL/bsDzZ938AkQCCc4DmylGvS/WIWRJZiqgOXRzEFQGGOv kXzDLrRplH+7L+8Q6FyTYb/FpdH9d0oV5lzl4Y2DE9jiaVfLltFd/GJwPZIb57IkW7C9 7EIwPdSkJVz40aaa1sIdt43POpFCvOjg7xVqXAv9a6FsEywMdK3BFA6BQ/JolYRGoHaq 4hK2bR2q7f7ibGVJB+Rt7Ip5ZdKNKFHDN2jqSp+aq026mGrTMrO6WM2lE+v6G6CZD8QL toUQ== mVOvvz6l2JbK2jgHyw5BggHhJk//xcRnGObK2VI= Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:09:10 -0800 (PST) References: Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:08:59 -0800 To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Miq Millman via Shop-talk Cc: Shop Talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net --===============6090233934553811032== --000000000000c8c994059a4eceef Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just did something similar: had a door that was too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side. I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like. Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc. You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62 (Orange big box has them for ~$100). I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails, -- __ Miq Millman miq@bigllama.com Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk < shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote: > I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come > up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to = put up a > pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a= tall > kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into= a > pocket. When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the > cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to m= ake out of tongue > and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decid= ed > that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try= something > different. I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and > decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday t= o see if > they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the > holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 > shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house. > They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they ar= e > 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always dona= te them > back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work. > > There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by > tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. = I will > try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2= =80=99t > work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narro= w > the doors a bit. This *should* be possible, since the stiles and rails > are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about na= rrowing the entire > width of the door. > (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are > currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets > and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29= =E2=80=9D. > > I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway = to use, > and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I would be > happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. We are > probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that m= ake my > wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. So, > what does the group think? Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each= face of > these doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there > another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any rando= m > gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even. > > As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all! > > Jim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com > > --000000000000c8c994059a4eceef Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just did something similar:=C2=A0 had a door that was to= o wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then = ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of = the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side.

= I think you can do something similar.=C2=A0 Look up "router jig to fla= tten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide a= s your (possibly new) router base.=C2=A0 Woodworkers use this kind of rig f= or flattening live edge slabs and the like.

Here&#= 39;s a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plyw= ood and simple rails:=C2=A0=C2=A0https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M

Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig= on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.=C2= =A0 Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make anoth= er pass, etc.

You might not even need to finish th= e final surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack pl= ane, like the Stanley No. 62=C2=A0 (Orange big box has them for ~$100).

I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, whe= re I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,

--
__
Miq Millman=C2=A0=C2=A0 miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR= =C2=A0 Big Llama Productions

On Sun, Dec 22, 2019= at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

=
I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have co= me up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.=C2=A0 I ne= ed to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will = slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.=C2=A0 So, not exactly a pocket doo= r, but it needs to fit into a pocket.=C2=A0 When we designed/installed the = kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80= =9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possib= ly shiplap.=C2=A0 However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80= =99t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.= =C2=A0 I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides = and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if t= hey had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays= .=C2=A0 To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker s= tyle doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.=C2=A0 The= y are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3= /4=E2=80=9D thick.=C2=A0 I bought them anyway, figuring I could always dona= te them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.=C2=A0

There is a possibility that I might be able to make = the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about = 1 5/8=E2=80=9D.=C2=A0 I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are th= at precise.=C2=A0 It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-d= onating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.=C2=A0 This shou= ld be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80= =9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of = the door. =C2=A0
(For what it is worth, I should add here that wh= ile the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the ma= tch the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84= =E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =C2=A0

I currently have a= good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap = HF hand planer that might work.=C2=A0 But, of course, I would be happy to b= uy a new one or another tool that would do the job.=C2=A0 We are probably l= ooking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife = happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.=C2=A0 So, wha= t does the group think?=C2=A0 Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each= face of these doors.=C2=A0 Is an electric hand planer my best option, or i= s there another way?=C2=A0 They will be painted in the end, so I can fill i= n any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.

=
As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!

Jim
_______________________________________= ________

Shop-talk@aut= ox.team.net
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk htt= p://autox.team.net/archive

alk/miq@bigllama.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea= m.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com

--000000000000c8c994059a4eceef-- --===============6090233934553811032== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============6090233934553811032==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 13:05:20 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DAFD2A0D7C for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 13:05:20 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net (unknown [209.86.89.68]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 32F6CA0D6F for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 13:05:11 -0700 (MST) s=dk12062016; t=1577045112; bh=ylHaSI7cFu+bHJk+l4+xnFkqML/nyRxux4dy RWd2VfU=; h=Received:From:Subject:To:Cc:References:Message-ID:Date: User-Agent:MIME-Version:In-Reply-To:Content-Type:Content-Language: X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; b=JecXrxrnWDVhZ39zb7Schq2TAjqYDpZcl KI4svrrYTH6qEtaTUKqzMRvCp/haB01ueWovPvxWfYWZkZf0Vuo12TIusYMI9Fi+5N0 hSnmnDYIG5j9ZKi0FTX07y5oVXp8qoHFjVWQfi2ugEzHyU73tpHmqXessgLy7n0KP7j Ur0MgT5hA2eueNQPRNqKnvs2PgpNrTUQfVeBZOBsQZN8VD0QvtKfcEBprErA6vGPjf+ xhkvCyGmiBFHtSMOFAbUiBId/b0ACixAGvulhsVOEB+4fIdxVbzNMC3smVs+9/7wvw6 FBBUXVdvP07D1uO1WmPZFjvALcqfSn+MIA0dgzrpA== DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk12062016; d=earthlink.net; b=KEtc1W4FAuiXp5Kr5OEatpCLo9+Gvk5vs6pj6YuQbdbJ0RM4eaKXJ0jvGi+t5ADqc1ex5VcJlL6cLHa5/+8AwQCXy3zoD0a/VF791lyIJeBa9OZsbOE8rOdcuP/nmz/VarTSCtmhNZbG4/TwJgvNcV0QLcKgiIGOVlEkVdgwKKM1RLXAFsPfuh1wj+dyYnMwl98jCFSTCuP90f8qAQreCwOQWRKlM0d3G+mSA1TvC9RVQ7QLc/VuT0Qh1Iz9vLEoN5eGVU903ourIrcXB4xhK1chkBiJDZ46u1YeGsDuNCZ46NWsyCfWpA18nHQDjOUYv2SfqnsEjrT/5JOo5WfgJw==; h=Received:From:Subject:To:Cc:References:Message-ID:Date:User-Agent:MIME-Version:In-Reply-To:Content-Type:Content-Language:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [184.181.124.168] (helo=[192.168.0.3]) by elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpsa (TLSv1.2:ECDHE-RSA-AES128-GCM-SHA256:128) (Exim 4) (envelope-from ) id 1ij7TS-0000ik-NW; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 15:05:11 -0500 To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> References: Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:05:03 -0800 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/60.9.1 Content-Language: en-US Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Brian Kemp via Shop-talk Cc: Shop Talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============5311963146325278531== boundary="------------E673BA014669412A9B11B561" Content-Language: en-US This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------E673BA014669412A9B11B561 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local shop with a door sized industrial sander. Brian On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote: > I just did something similar:Â had a door that was too wide, so I used > a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door > through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge > side and about 1/16" off the latch side. > > I think you can do something similar.Â Look up "router jig to flatten > wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your > (possibly new) router base.Â Woodworkers use this kind of rig for > flattening live edge slabs and the like. > > Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using > some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M > > Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the > door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.Â Make a > pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another > pass, etc. > > You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but > here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62Â > (Orange big box has them for ~$100). > > I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" > aluminum rectangle tube for the rails, > > -- > __ > Tualatin, ORÂ Big Llama Productions > > > On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk > > I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and > have come up with a problem I would like the groupâ€™s help with.Â I > need to put up a pair of 8â€™ x 30" barn doors, one of which will > slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.Â So, not exactly a pocket > door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.Â When we > designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets > for a 1 3/8â€ - 1 1/2â€ door, which I planned to make out of tongue > and groove boards or possibly shiplap.Â However, my wife has > lately decided that she doesnâ€™t like the look of the board door > and wants to try something different.Â I wanted to install > something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to > Habitat for Humanityâ€™s ReStore yesterday to see if they had > anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the > holidays.Â To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, > 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good > in the house.Â They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only > problem is that they are 1 3/4â€ thick.Â I bought them anyway, > figuring I could always donate them back if there wasnâ€™t a good > way to make them work. > > There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work > by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 > 5/8â€.Â I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that > precise.Â It it doesnâ€™t work, my only option - besides re-donating > the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.Â This /should/ be > possible, since the stiles and rails are 4â€ and 8â€, respectively, > so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. > (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are > currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the > cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about > 84â€ x 29â€. > > I currently have a good bench top planer that I canâ€™t see anyway > to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.Â But, of > course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that > would do the job.Â We are probably looking at more than $1000 for > a pair of 8â€™ doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of > room in the budget for a new tool.Â So, what does the group > think?Â Can I safely take about 1/8â€ off each face of these > doors.Â Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there > another way?Â They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in > any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even. > > As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all! > > Jim > _______________________________________________ > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donationÂ $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net > --------------E673BA014669412A9B11B561 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local shop with a door sized industrial sander.

Brian

On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:

I just did something similar:Â had a door that was too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side.

I think you can do something similar.Â Look up "router jig to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new) router base.Â Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like.

Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plywood and simple rails:Â Â https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M

Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.Â Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.

You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62Â (Orange big box has them for ~$100).

I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,

--
__
Miq MillmanÂ Â miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, ORÂ Big Llama Productions

On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the groupâ€™s help with.Â I need to put up a pair of 8â€™ x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.Â So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.Â When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8â€ - 1 1/2â€ door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.Â However, my wife has lately decided that she doesnâ€™t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.Â I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanityâ€™s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays.Â To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.Â They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4â€ thick.Â I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasnâ€™t a good way to make them work.Â

There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8â€.Â I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.Â It it doesnâ€™t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.Â This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4â€ and 8â€, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. Â

(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84â€ x 29â€. Â

I currently have a good bench top planer that I canâ€™t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.Â But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.Â We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8â€™ doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.Â So, what does the group think?Â Can I safely take about 1/8â€ off each face of these doors.Â Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way?Â They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.

As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!

Jim

_______________________________________________

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--------------E673BA014669412A9B11B561-- --===============5311963146325278531== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============5311963146325278531==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Dec 22 16:42:12 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 93B2AA0D58 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 16:42:12 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qt1-f181.google.com (unknown [209.85.160.181]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 892E7A0448 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 16:41:48 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-qt1-f181.google.com with SMTP id n15so13971995qtp.5 for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 15:41:48 -0800 (PST) h=from:mime-version:subject:date:references:to:in-reply-to:message-id; bh=B+MRgMkrmrturgeh8XlcqGhpXnV88zpSQc20aEPg3Sc=; b=nc6fIxqzt/2Adq58GqNAc5uqhAQ13t8FOOGBrmsxiLNk8ttdt6X3d6bE2eT52ZWTDb fx5nrcutSBcplSklhMxNUNtqy/GDFA2AsT3s00WnLcNsU++f+vUTBfL2oBJ+OmlrLfl3 617FDPrGqjf1w13J5rnJWvoGxiHSaq2XRXOgMhYPNzsm5CI3XFJP4KPO5uiLN+9tm5zu BRg+eXR8rqDqF5HDsREt3zlY4CbKXrCjZcA4679wFXax4qz4szjQoV8m3HgUgfKAceGp KLFDiLhZiQRWO5SixYk4IedrRW/NRnwhkVH4svv0WtCJOgoc4QpqSkKr78zQyuy9Cwt+ O28g== d=1e100.net; s=20161025; h=x-gm-message-state:from:mime-version:subject:date:references:to :in-reply-to:message-id; bh=B+MRgMkrmrturgeh8XlcqGhpXnV88zpSQc20aEPg3Sc=; b=NqtPeiWljOeqJIB/TwC74VJ1pvWep2GyxkpQuuuoJLfXVImSGJ1U6VYs7B8G/B+Ypf fTm+g/cawyqS9Lv2LaOBDfCKTY41NJJzpBMcmUj+hFDxgYgUYZv7GzYQhZ3T7H5LuvXP S0E88sHAuYe78UGfAxo91fazMZNsu+2BIMhYdfdXmau72sU9l+uO4lMZ/jsRw/RNPnrL 7lVzstyOHOAb2OADhXYxk9cgtyiK8NL6Wbgu8yS12BqhLPbcq9v/5f51n29fqSAC62fP ypAAJnBvB+Hu+c/xXzQIBkhB+9Zy6jxOaW8mNXwSykk+Bf6VICZOSoEgFzTUd+2MzjFf Uf2w== QEygVylJWrS126gtE1FrS9M1eVMyaFE= Sun, 22 Dec 2019 15:41:46 -0800 (PST) Received: from macbook-pro-2.home (ool-43526917.dyn.optonline.net. [67.82.105.23]) by smtp.gmail.com with ESMTPSA id m21sm5261304qka.117.2019.12.22.15.41.45 for (version=TLS1_2 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-AES128-GCM-SHA256 bits=128/128); Sun, 22 Dec 2019 15:41:46 -0800 (PST) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 18:41:42 -0500 References:

To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net --===============6914151659875571490== boundary="Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA" --Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Thanks guys. The sled looks pretty easy to make and would certainly do = the trick. One other suggestion gave me another idea, which would be to = use my bench planer to =E2=80=98mill=E2=80=99 a piece of wood to = perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, in effect giving = me a larger flat surface. I would think I could then use a router with = a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, removing a bit of material = as I go. The spacer would give me a flat, even surface all the way to = the inside. I would think that would work fine, without the need to = build a sled. However, it may all be academic now. I studied the doors more carefully = a few hours ago and realized that they are not solid wood, but MDF with = about an 1/8=E2=80=9D veneer on the front and an inch or so of poplar on = the sides. No wonder they are so heavy. The MDF and the poplar are = about the same color and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole = saw marks gave the appearance of grain. Probably wishful thinking on my = part. I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is = possible a tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the = way though the veneer won=E2=80=99t leave me with an acceptable surface = for paint. I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful = modifying the track and be able to make it work that way. I=E2=80=99ll = measure extra carefully! I won=E2=80=99t have access to a milling = machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to stay = dormant for a week or so. Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime! Jim > On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: >=20 > I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local = shop with a door sized industrial sander. >=20 > Brian >=20 > On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote: >> I just did something similar: had a door that was too wide, so I = used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door = through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side = and about 1/16" off the latch side. >>=20 >> I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten = wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your = (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for = flattening live edge slabs and the like. >>=20 >> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using = some plywood and simple rails: = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M = >>=20 >> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the = door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a pass, = move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc. >>=20 >> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but = here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62 = (Orange big box has them for ~$100). >>=20 >> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" = aluminum rectangle tube for the rails, >>=20 >> -- >> __ >> Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions >>=20 >>=20 >> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk = >> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have = come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I = need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will = slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, = but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the = kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80= =9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or = possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she = doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try = something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she = shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore = yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, = at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, = really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really = good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only = problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, = figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good = way to make them work.=20 >>=20 >> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by = tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. = I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it = doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - = is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the = stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am = not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =20 >> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are = currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the = cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D= x 29=E2=80=9D. =20 >>=20 >> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see = anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of = course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do = the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80= =99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the = budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely = take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. Is an electric = hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be = painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have = to be smooth and even. >>=20 >> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all! >>=20 >> Jim >> _______________________________________________ >>=20 >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html = >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk = http://autox.team.net/archive = >>=20 >> Unsubscribe/Manage: = http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com = >>=20 >>=20 >>=20 >> _______________________________________________ >>=20 >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html = >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk = http://autox.team.net/archive = >>=20 >> Unsubscribe/Manage: = http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net = >>=20 >=20 --Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable charset=utf-8 Thanks guys. The sled looks pretty easy to make and = would certainly do the trick. One other suggestion gave me another = idea, which would be to use my bench planer to =E2=80=98mill=E2=80=99 a = piece of wood to perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, = in effect giving me a larger flat surface. I would think I could = then use a router with a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, = removing a bit of material as I go. The spacer would give me a = flat, even surface all the way to the inside. I would think that = would work fine, without the need to build a sled.

However, it may all be academic now. = I studied the doors more carefully a few hours ago and realized = that they are not solid wood, but MDF with about an 1/8=E2=80=9D veneer = on the front and an inch or so of poplar on the sides. No wonder = they are so heavy. The MDF and the poplar are about the same color = and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole saw marks gave the = appearance of grain. Probably wishful thinking on my part. = I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is possible a = tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the way though = the veneer won=E2=80=99t leave me with an acceptable surface for paint. = I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful = modifying the track and be able to make it work that way. I=E2=80=99= ll measure extra carefully! I won=E2=80=99t have access to a = milling machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to = stay dormant for a week or so. Plenty to keep me busy in the = meantime!

Jim

On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> = wrote:
=20 =20
I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local shop with a door sized industrial sander.

Brian

On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman = via Shop-talk wrote:
I just did something similar: = had a door that was too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side.

I think you can do something similar. Look = up "router jig to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers = use this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the = like.

Here's a good video that explains it and shows = how to make it using some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M

Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and = set the jig on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter = of the bit, make another pass, etc.

You might not even need to finish the final = surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62 (Orange big box has them for = ~$100).

I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, = where I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,

--
__
Miq Millman miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions

On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at = 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

I am installing a barn door in my recently = remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to put up a pair = of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but = it needs to fit into a pocket. When we = designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 = 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to make out of = tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife = has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of = the board door and wants to try something different. I wanted = to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore = yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had = a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house. They = are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, = figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a = good way to make them work.

There is a possibility that I might be able = to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. I will try that, = but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99= t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should = be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, = respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.

(For what it is worth, I should add here = that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =

I currently have a good bench top planer = that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new = one or another tool that would do the job. We are = probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors = that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? = Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these = doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be painted in the end, so I = can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.

As always, thanks for any advice and Happy = Holidays to all!

Jim

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= --Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA-- --===============6914151659875571490== Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive --===============6914151659875571490==-- From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Dec 23 22:53:18 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 72A29A0BAD for ; Mon, 23 Dec 2019 22:53:18 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from ms11p00im-qufo17281301.me.com (unknown [17.58.38.50]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6E85EA0C3A for ; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:08:05 -0700 (MST) s=1a1hai; t=1577027283; bh=U0MPztwLdnHuNV5nuR/mAuLpcz/y9uwpAVDoboKrmvs=; h=Content-Type:From:Subject:Date:Message-Id:To; b=f8UpWcgZZ1rKuLKm2WhruUv4IppI+ApP2bEyBsM8s12XDuQ/ohQkjCT4a0mqgGm9O 01sPKd6HhGSf1wu+kGNyNoS/zvDr7Mvk56L9EX6T2Vi4x8vJ5VE6Tz0Fw/WAvF6k9w oJj91f1TjR+xEIVwDNUW6I+7RLotsWvMIgQbnwXGp/508kkHcgTTPx7YwFhmju7Lx+ dJdtUwqrHePVv93LbGVVAEUyM6Vt/yzVnvSvC4yPIChzwl8NjUmDNrM65Ts5SRwL5m SLpztYF+naAmxcr4gfdkUlFG15uBLH6i0CAXKsbTeaxQB4kLHdADPBFM8Czp3Rn0ye dXDU6S7B6nxOQ== Received: from [192.168.88.55] (unknown [199.38.189.253]) by ms11p00im-qufo17281301.me.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id D5532AC08C3; Sun, 22 Dec 2019 15:08:02 +0000 (UTC) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:08:00 -0600 References: <6F0C6F00-9E43-4B6C-97F8-D1A7EF340915@groupwbench.org> To: Jim Franklin definitions=2019-12-22_02:, , signatures=0 malwarescore=0 phishscore=0 bulkscore=0 spamscore=0 clxscore=1015 mlxscore=0 mlxlogscore=999 adultscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1 engine=8.0.1-1908290000 definitions=main-1912220139 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner From: Pat Horne via Shop-talk Cc: Shop Talk 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YW5kIGV2ZW4uCj4gCj4gQXMgYWx3YXlzLCB0aGFua3MgZm9yIGFueSBhZHZpY2UgYW5kIEhhcHB5 IEhvbGlkYXlzIHRvIGFsbCEKPiAKPiBKaW0KPiBfX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19f X19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fXwo+IAo+IFNob3AtdGFsa0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldAo+IERvbmF0 ZTogaHR0cDovL3d3dy50ZWFtLm5ldC9kb25hdGUuaHRtbAo+IFN1Z2dlc3RlZCBhbm51YWwgZG9u YXRpb24gICQxMi45Ngo+IEFyY2hpdmU6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cudGVhbS5uZXQvcGlwZXJtYWlsL3No b3AtdGFsayBodHRwOi8vYXV0b3gudGVhbS5uZXQvYXJjaGl2ZQo+IAo+IFVuc3Vic2NyaWJlL01h bmFnZTogaHR0cDovL2F1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0L21haWxtYW4vb3B0aW9ucy9zaG9wLXRhbGsvamFt ZXNmQGdyb3Vwd2JlbmNoLm9yZwo+IAoKX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19f X19fX19fX19fX19fX18KClNob3AtdGFsa0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldApEb25hdGU6IGh0dHA6Ly93 d3cudGVhbS5uZXQvZG9uYXRlLmh0bWwKU3VnZ2VzdGVkIGFubnVhbCBkb25hdGlvbiAgJDEyLjk2 CkFyY2hpdmU6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cudGVhbS5uZXQvcGlwZXJtYWlsL3Nob3AtdGFsayBodHRwOi8v YXV0b3gudGVhbS5uZXQvYXJjaGl2ZQoKVW5zdWJzY3JpYmUvTWFuYWdlOiBodHRwOi8vYXV0b3gu dGVhbS5uZXQvbWFpbG1hbi9vcHRpb25zL3Nob3AtdGFsay9wYXRpbnRleGFzQGljbG91ZC5jb20K CgpfX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fX19fXwoKU2hvcC10 YWxrQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0CkRvbmF0ZTogaHR0cDovL3d3dy50ZWFtLm5ldC9kb25hdGUuaHRt bApTdWdnZXN0ZWQgYW5udWFsIGRvbmF0aW9uICAkMTIuOTYKQXJjaGl2ZTogaHR0cDovL3d3dy50 ZWFtLm5ldC9waXBlcm1haWwvc2hvcC10YWxrIGh0dHA6Ly9hdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldC9hcmNoaXZl CgpVbnN1YnNjcmliZS9NYW5hZ2U6IGh0dHA6Ly9hdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldC9tYWlsbWFuL29wdGlv bnMvc2hvcC10YWxrL21oYXJjQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0Cgo= From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Dec 23 22:53:55 2019 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from [50.198.190.17] (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AE632A0C04 for ; Mon, 23 Dec 2019 22:53:55 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa09-02.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (unknown [173.201.193.231]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3F95DA105F for ; Mon, 23 Dec 2019 17:30:29 -0700 (MST) Received: from DESKTOPTOA1F5G ([24.19.60.71]) by :SMTPAUTH: with ESMTPA id jY5iiEuDzBjlujY5ji3FnG; Mon, 23 Dec 2019 17:30:28 -0700 To: Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2019 16:30:18 -0800 Organization: LeatherPlates.com Importance: Normal HNlGzXsb+xxb966PtylSQU4LxroyEmXipsGL7ziNxQ9J8yVETupXLy2gEsuVmT1zEX4N48tNAAJSHQ== Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for design engineering expertise From: Steve via Shop-talk Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --===============4079185503917129580== type="multipart/alternative"; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0077_01D5B9AE.488520F0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01D5B9AE.488520F0 boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0078_01D5B9AE.488520F0" ------=_NextPart_001_0078_01D5B9AE.488520F0 charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here=E2=80=99s why I=E2=80=99m confused! I=E2=80=99m trying to reverse engineer and then create a few copies=20 of a partially complete OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH (one-way) that we have available, in-house (see photos at bottom of post)=20 I need to re-create the missing spring cover sleeves and springs=20 that follow the rollers. If you=E2=80=99ve got any experience with=20 OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCHES, you=E2=80=99ll know what I mean. I=E2=80=99m hoping that there=E2=80=99s a simple value range that I can = pick from and=20 maybe even find some already available spring covers and even springs=20 that can be adapted.=20 If you=E2=80=99re interested in what this fits, it=E2=80=99s for a = specific Gray & Davis (Boston MA)=20 manufactured starter. The original OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH assembly = was=20 a sub-assembly for G&D and supplied by Miesel Press, a Boston machine = tool=20 manufacturer. This starter was optionally available on Overland = automobiles in 1914. =20 Any suggestions?=20 Below is the actual 6 roller version (maybe inserted in the 1950s??) in = place of the=20 original 3 roller version. We=E2=80=99re working with the 6 roller = design, as it=E2=80=99s interchangeable=20 with an original 3 roller version. As can be seen, we=E2=80=99re = missing the springs and spring=20 cups that follow the rollers, keeping them ready to lock the rotor to = the shaft rotation. Center rotor (w/ square drive) is 15mm thick Max diameter of rotor is 68mm Rollers are 15mm x 8mm dia. (or 5/16=E2=80=9D dia.) ambiguous=20 Square drive is 20 x 20mm=20 Outer (containment) race machined into sprocket casting=20 Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA 360-661-6060 gsteve@hammatt.com ------=_NextPart_001_0078_01D5B9AE.488520F0 charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Here=E2=80=99s=20 why I=E2=80=99m confused!

I=E2=80=99m trying to reverse engineer and then create a few copies =

of a partially complete OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH (one-way)

that we have available, in-house (see photos at bottom of post) =

I need to re-create the missing spring cover sleeves and springs =

that follow the rollers. If you=E2=80=99ve got any experience = with

OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCHES, you=E2=80=99ll know what I mean.

I=E2=80=99m hoping that there=E2=80=99s a simple value range that I = can pick from and=20

maybe even find some already available spring covers and even = springs=20

that can be adapted.

If you=E2=80=99re interested in what this fits, it=E2=80=99s for a = specific Gray &=20 Davis (Boston MA)

manufactured starter. The original OVERRIDING ROLLER CLUTCH = assembly=20 was

a sub-assembly for G&D and supplied by Miesel Press, a Boston = machine=20 tool

manufacturer. This starter was optionally available on = Overland=20 automobiles in 1914.

Any=20 suggestions?

Below is=20 the actual 6 roller version (maybe inserted in the 1950s??) in place of = the=20

original 3=20 roller version. We=E2=80=99re working with the 6 roller design, as = it=E2=80=99s=20 interchangeable

with an=20 original 3 roller version. As can be seen, we=E2=80=99re missing = the springs and=20 spring

cups that=20 follow the rollers, keeping them ready to lock the rotor to the shaft=20 rotation.

3Dclip_image004=20

Center rotor (w/ square drive) is 15mm = thick

Max=20 diameter of rotor is 68mm

Rollers are 15mm x 8mm dia. (or 5/16=E2=80=9D = dia.) ambiguous=20

Square drive is 20 x 20mm

Outer (containment) race machined into = sprocket casting=20

Steve=20 Hammatt

Mount=20 Vernon WA USA

360-661-6060

gsteve@hammatt.com

I=E2=80=99ve had good results with Wet & Forget O= utdoor cleaner.=C2=A0 It =C2=A0kills mold and algae, and breaks their hold = on the substrate so they wash off in the rain. =C2=A0It is not quick. Expec= t results in 30-60 days.=