Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Making a door thinner

From: Arvid via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:42:36 -0600

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Maybe a drum sander like this ... https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzl=
y-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z ... and appropriate i=
nfeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door as you do each edge.

On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have com=
e up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. =C2=A0I n=
eed to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will sl=
ide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. =C2=A0So, not exactly a pocket doo=
r, but it needs to fit into a pocket. =C2=A0When we designed/installed th=
e kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=
=80=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or p=
ossibly shiplap. =C2=A0However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=
=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try something dif=
ferent. =C2=A0I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and=
 decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday =
to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for=
 the holidays. =C2=A0To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice=
, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the=
 house. =C2=A0They are solid wood, I think poplar,=20
> and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. =C2=A0I bou=
ght them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=
=80=99t a good way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by t=
weaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. =C2=
=A0I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. =C2=A0=
It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the door=
s - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. =C2=A0This /should/ be possible,=
 since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, =
so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are curre=
ntly 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and =
door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=
=9D.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anywa=
y to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. =C2=A0But, of cours=
e, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the jo=
b. =C2=A0We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=
=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget=
 for a new tool. =C2=A0So, what does the group think? =C2=A0Can I safely =
take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. =C2=A0Is an electri=
c hand planer my best option, or is there another way? =C2=A0They will be=
 painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have=
 to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> [email-masked]
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/=
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>
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[email-masked]

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    <p>Maybe a drum sander like this ... <a
href="https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z">https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z</a>
      ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the
      door as you do each edge.<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via
      Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div class="">I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled
        house and have come up with a problem I would like the group’s
        help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30" barn doors, one
        of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not
        exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When
        we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the
        cabinets for a 1 3/8” - 1 1/2” door, which I planned to make out
        of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my
        wife has lately decided that she doesn’t like the look of the
        board door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to
        install something temporary while she shops and decides and we
        went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore yesterday to see if they
        had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
        holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice,
        8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good
        in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only
        problem is that they are 1 3/4” thick.  I bought them anyway,
        figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn’t a good
        way to make them work. </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">There is a possibility that I might be able to make
        the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the
        opening is about 1 5/8”.  I will try that, but doubt the wall
        tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn’t work, my only option
        - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors
        a bit.  This <i class="">should</i> be possible, since the
        stiles and rails are 4” and 8”, respectively, so I am not
        talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.  </div>
      <div class="">(For what it is worth, I should add here that while
        the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make
        the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them
        down to about 84” x 29”.  </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">I currently have a good bench top planer that I
        can’t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might
        work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or
        another tool that would do the job.  We are probably looking at
        more than $1000 for a pair of 8’ doors that make my wife happy,
        so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what
        does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8” off each
        face of these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option,
        or is there another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I
        can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and
        even.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays
        to all!</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">Jim</div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>

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_______________________________________________

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive

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From: Pat Horne via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 08:46:29 -0600

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Planing the back side of the door is one possibility as is modifying the cab=
inet. I=E2=80=99d look @ modifying the wall. If it is drywall, you should be=
 able to gain 1/2=E2=80=9D just by removing the drywall. Then plane down, sa=
w or replace the studs from the floor up to the track, then replace the dryw=
all. Since the drywall is mainly hidden by door & cabinet, & doesn=E2=80=99t=
 have anything hanging on it. I=E2=80=98d consider 1/4 drywall or Masonite. O=
nly problem is how to make the other door & it=E2=80=99s wall look right.=20=

Please let us know how it turns out.=20

I love finding stuff @ the restore!

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:27 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]=
.net> wrote:
>=20

=EF=BB=BF
I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up w=
ith a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.  I need to put up a=
 pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a t=
all kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit int=
o a pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the c=
abinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to make o=
ut of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has la=
tely decided that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wa=
nts to try something different.  I wanted to install something temporary whi=
le she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReSto=
re yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at=
 least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really ni=
ce, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the h=
ouse.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that the=
y are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always d=
onate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.=20

There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaki=
ng the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D.  I will t=
ry that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn=E2=80=99=
t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow=
 the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=
=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing t=
he entire width of the door. =20
(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8=
x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door open=
ing and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =20

I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to u=
se, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be h=
appy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are probabl=
y looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wif=
e happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what do=
es the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of t=
hese doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another w=
ay?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, bu=
t they do have to be smooth and even.

Jim

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Planing the back side of the door is one po=
ssibility as is modifying the cabinet. I=E2=80=99d look @ modifying the wall=
. If it is drywall, you should be able to gain 1/2=E2=80=9D just by removing=
 the drywall. Then plane down, saw or replace the studs from the floor up to=
 the track, then replace the drywall. Since the drywall is mainly hidden by d=
oor &amp; cabinet, &amp; doesn=E2=80=99t have anything hanging on it. I=E2=80=
=98d consider 1/4 drywall or Masonite. Only problem is how to make the other=
 door &amp; it=E2=80=99s wall look right.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Please le=
t us know how it turns out.&nbsp;<br><div><br></div><div>I love finding stuf=
f @ the restore!<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Habi=
tat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote t=
ype=3D"cite">On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:27 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk &lt;shop-t=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-=
8"><div class=3D"">I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled hous=
e and have come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with=
. &nbsp;I need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which=
 will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. &nbsp;So, not exactly a pocke=
t door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. &nbsp;When we designed/installed t=
he kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibl=
y shiplap. &nbsp;However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99=
t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different. &nbs=
p;I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we=
 went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if they had=
 anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. &nbsp;=
To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style door=
s for $50 each that would look really good in the house. &nbsp;They are soli=
d wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D=
 thick. &nbsp;I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back=
 if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.&nbsp;</div><div class=
=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">There is a possibility that I mig=
ht be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the=
 opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. &nbsp;I will try that, but doubt the wall t=
olerances are that precise. &nbsp;It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option=
 - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. &nbs=
p;This <i class=3D"">should</i> be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=
=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing t=
he entire width of the door. &nbsp;</div><div class=3D"">(For what it is wor=
th, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to twe=
ak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cu=
tting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. &nbsp;</div><div class=3D=
""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I currently have a good bench top pl=
aner that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that=
 might work. &nbsp;But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or anot=
her tool that would do the job. &nbsp;We are probably looking at more than $=
1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lot=
s of room in the budget for a new tool. &nbsp;So, what does the group think?=
 &nbsp;Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. &n=
bsp;Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? &nbs=
p;They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but t=
hey do have to be smooth and even.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div=
><div class=3D"">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!=
</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Jim</div><span>__=
_____________________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><sp=
an>[email-masked]</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/dona=
te.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><sp=
an>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</span><br><span></span>=
<br></div></div></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:57:48 -0500

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I took a cabinetmaking class at a state university and they had a giant =
belt sander that was set up like a planer. Maybe ask around the local =
colleges/votechs?

I would not attenpt it with a hand planer, I think that's too inaccurate =
a tool for surfaces wider than the planer.

jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have =
come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.  I =
need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will =
slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, =
but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed the =
kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or =
possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decided that she =
doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try =
something different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she =
shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore =
yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, =
at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, =
really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really =
good in the house.  They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only =
problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick.  I bought them anyway, =
figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good =
way to make them work.=20
>=20
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by =
tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. =
 I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it =
doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - =
is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This should be possible, since the =
stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am =
not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =20
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are =
currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the =
cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D=
 x 29=E2=80=9D. =20
>=20
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see =
anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of =
course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do =
the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=
=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the =
budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I safely =
take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors.  Is an electric =
hand planer my best option, or is there another way?  They will be =
painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have =
to be smooth and even.
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: Eric Russell via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:07:22 -0500

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Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for a door 
making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide belt sander. 
I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they did not charge me an 
outrageous amount to run them through the machine.

http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders

Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router would 
allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I made one out of 
aluminum channel & angle. Woodpecker Tools sells one (at a a hefty 
price...).

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via Shop-talk wrote:
>
> Maybe a drum sander like this ... 
> https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z 
> door as you do each edge.
>
>> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have 
>> come up with a problem I would like the group’s help with.  I need to 
>> put up a pair of 8’ x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next 
>> to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it 
>> needs to fit into a pocket.

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    <p>Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for
      a door making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide
      belt sander. I've brought them wide glue ups for tables and they
      did not charge me an outrageous amount to run them through the
      machine. <br>
    </p>
    <p><a href="http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders">http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders</a>
      <br>
    </p>
    <p>Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router
      would allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I
      made one out of aluminum channel &amp; angle. Woodpecker Tools
      sells one (at a a hefty price...). <br>
    </p>
    <p><a
        href="https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html">https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill.html
        <br>
      </a></p>
    Eric Russell<br>
    Mebane, NC <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via
      Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>Maybe a drum sander like this ... <a
href="https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z"
          moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z</a>
        ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support
        the door as you do each edge.<br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via
        Shop-talk wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <div class="">I am installing a barn door in my recently
          remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like
          the group’s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30"
          barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen
          cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit
          into a pocket. <br>
        </div>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: John Innis via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 09:21:06 -0600

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This is the direction I was thinking.  There is a CNC router kit from a
outfit called Maslow that will do 4x8 sheets of plywood.  Something like
this should be adaptable to meet your needs.
https://www.maslowcnc.com/

On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 9:08 AM Eric Russell via Shop-talk <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander=
-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z
> ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support the door a=
s
> you do each edge.
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come
> up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.  I need to =
put up a
> pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a=
 tall
> kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into=
 a
> pocket.
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

--=20
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>This is the direction I was thinking.=C2=A0 There is =
a CNC router kit from a outfit called Maslow that will do 4x8 sheets of ply=
wood.=C2=A0 Something like this should be adaptable to meet your needs.</di=
v><div><a href=3D"https://www.maslowcnc.com/">https://www.maslowcnc.com/</a=
></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail=
_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 9:08 AM Eric Russell via Shop-talk &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px =
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>Nothing against obtaining more tools but you might also look for
      a door making shop. They would likely have an industrial size wide
      belt sander. I&#39;ve brought them wide glue ups for tables and they
      did not charge me an outrageous amount to run them through the
      machine. <br>
    </p>
    <p><a href=3D"http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders" tar=
get=3D"_blank">http://www.hermance.com/Industrial/Wide-Belt-Sanders</a>
      <br>
    </p>
    <p>Or, along the lines of tool acquisition, a jig to hold a router
      would allow you mill off an fairly exact amount of material. I
      made one out of aluminum channel &amp; angle. Woodpecker Tools
      sells one (at a a hefty price...). <br>
    </p>
    <p><a href=3D"https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill=
.html" target=3D"_blank">https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flatteni=
ng-mill.html
        <br>
      </a></p>
    Eric Russell<br>
    Mebane, NC <br>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div>On 12/22/2019 9:42 AM, Arvid via
      Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <p>Maybe a drum sander like this ... <a href=3D"https://www.grizzly.c=
om/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z" targ=
et=3D"_blank">https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-18-1-1-2-HP-Open-End=
-Drum-Sander-w-VS-Feed/G0458Z</a>
        ... and appropriate infeed, side and outfeed tables to support
        the door as you do each edge.<br>
      </p>
      <div>On 12/22/19 8:26 AM, Jim Stone via
        Shop-talk wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type=3D"cite">
       =20
        <div>I am installing a barn door in my recently
          remodeled house and have come up with a problem I would like
          the group=E2=80=99s help with.=C2=A0 I need to put up a pair of 8=
=E2=80=99 x 30&quot;
          barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen
          cabinet.=C2=A0 So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit
          into a pocket. <br>
        </div>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

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</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
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wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Jimmie Mayfield via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:36:00 -0500

Contact a local cabinet shop and ask them how much they'd charge to run 
your door through their wide-belt sander a few times to take it down to 
1 3/8".  Shouldn't take long at all.  They might balk if these doors are 
already painted/finished (it might gum up their sanding belt) so you 
might need to strip the finish before you drop the doors off  but 
contact them and see what they prefer.

[email-masked]

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

---

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:58:58 -0500

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Thanks, guys!  While I was hoping the planer was a viable option, I =
didn=E2=80=99t really expect it to work, so I appreciate being talked =
out of it before I screwed anything up.  Some additional comments on the =
recommendations:

I like the Grizzly open belt sander!  However, it would cost about as =
much as just buying custom doors, so I will probably pass on that, =
unless I get lucky and find a used one.  I=E2=80=99ll look around, just =
to be safe.
Same thing for the router jig.  I had considered using a router, but =
didn=E2=80=99t know how I=E2=80=99d get the cut even.  One of those jigs =
would certainly do the trick, but probably be cost prohibitive.  Still, =
I=E2=80=99ll research it a bit more.
Unfortunately, modifying the wall isn=E2=80=99t an option.  The door in =
the pocket is one of a pair and the total wall is about 24 ft long (and =
18=E2=80=99 high), so we=E2=80=99d be remodeling the entire house again =
at that point!
Modifying the cabinets isn=E2=80=99t an option either, although moving =
them a bit is possible.  Still, this is a wall of cabinets and there is =
an oven hood in the mix that would also need to move, so the total =
effort would be more work than anything I could run into with the doors.
On idea I considered after sending my note this morning was something =
based on floor sanding equipment.  e.g. Screw steel stock to the sides =
of the door with a 1/8=E2=80=9D reveal, rig something around the center =
to give myself a stop on the other side, and then use a large rotary =
sander.  I think it might work, but like some of the other ideas, =
probably be more trouble than the project is worth.  Still, I am =
throwing it out in case it gives anyone another idea.

So, that brings me back to the most frequent suggestion: find a cabinet =
maker.  I casually know a couple, but didn=E2=80=99t think they=E2=80=99d =
have something wide enough.  I assumed they did all of their milling to =
the base stock, before assembly and wouldn=E2=80=99t have the need to =
thin something this wide.  Knowing the tools exist and are frequently =
used gives me hope for that option, which I will pursue, if necessary.  =
First, I am going to try to get lucky and make them work without =
modification.  It is theoretically possible to mill down the =
=E2=80=99stands=E2=80=99 for the track and make it all work.  I have an =
extra set of stands, thanks to a previous mistake custom fitting the =
barn door track, so I have nothing to lose.  If I get lucky (I=E2=80=99m =
putting my odds at no better than 1:10), it will all fit perfectly and =
I=E2=80=99ll be done.  If not, I=E2=80=99ll reach out to the cabinet =
makers and see if they can help me.  Worst case is that the doors go =
back to ReStore and I try something different.

Thanks again.  I=E2=80=99ll report back when there is a final resolution =
to the issue. =20

Jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!

--Apple-Mail=_873E13A6-4AA8-430F-89FC-4514BCD5DA71
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	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks, guys! &nbsp;While I was hoping the planer was a =
viable option, I didn=E2=80=99t really expect it to work, so I =
appreciate being talked out of it before I screwed anything up. =
&nbsp;Some additional comments on the recommendations:<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><ul class=3D"MailOutline"><li =
class=3D"">I like the Grizzly open belt sander! &nbsp;However, it would =
cost about as much as just buying custom doors, so I will probably pass =
on that, unless I get lucky and find a used one. &nbsp;I=E2=80=99ll look =
around, just to be safe.</li><li class=3D"">Same thing for the router =
jig. &nbsp;I had considered using a router, but didn=E2=80=99t know how =
I=E2=80=99d get the cut even. &nbsp;One of those jigs would certainly do =
the trick, but probably be cost prohibitive. &nbsp;Still, I=E2=80=99ll =
research it a bit more.</li><li class=3D"">Unfortunately, modifying the =
wall isn=E2=80=99t an option. &nbsp;The door in the pocket is one of a =
pair and the total wall is about 24 ft long (and 18=E2=80=99 high), so =
we=E2=80=99d be remodeling the entire house again at that point!</li><li =
class=3D"">Modifying the cabinets isn=E2=80=99t an option either, =
although moving them a bit is possible. &nbsp;Still, this is a wall of =
cabinets and there is an oven hood in the mix that would also need to =
move, so the total effort would be more work than anything I could run =
into with the doors.</li><li class=3D"">On idea I considered after =
sending my note this morning was something based on floor sanding =
equipment. &nbsp;e.g. Screw steel stock to the sides of the door with a =
1/8=E2=80=9D reveal, rig something around the center to give myself a =
stop on the other side, and then use a large rotary sander. &nbsp;I =
think it might work, but like some of the other ideas, probably be more =
trouble than the project is worth. &nbsp;Still, I am throwing it out in =
case it gives anyone another idea.</li></ul><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">So, that brings me back to the most =
frequent suggestion: find a cabinet maker. &nbsp;I casually know a =
couple, but didn=E2=80=99t think they=E2=80=99d have something wide =
enough. &nbsp;I assumed they did all of their milling to the base stock, =
before assembly and wouldn=E2=80=99t have the need to thin something =
this wide. &nbsp;Knowing the tools exist and are frequently used gives =
me hope for that option, which I will pursue, if necessary. &nbsp;First, =
I am going to try to get lucky and make them work without modification. =
&nbsp;It is theoretically possible to mill down the =E2=80=99stands=E2=80=99=
 for the track and make it all work. &nbsp;I have an extra set of =
stands, thanks to a previous mistake custom fitting the barn door track, =
so I have nothing to lose. &nbsp;If I get lucky (I=E2=80=99m putting my =
odds at no better than 1:10), it will all fit perfectly and I=E2=80=99ll =
be done. &nbsp;If not, I=E2=80=99ll reach out to the cabinet makers and =
see if they can help me. &nbsp;Worst case is that the doors go back to =
ReStore and I try something different.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thanks again. &nbsp;I=E2=80=99ll report =
back when there is a final resolution to the issue. &nbsp;</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Jim</div><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec =
22, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Jim Stone &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: =
space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div class=3D"">I am =
installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up =
with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. &nbsp;I need =
to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide =
in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. &nbsp;So, not exactly a pocket door, =
but it needs to fit into a pocket. &nbsp;When we designed/installed the =
kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or =
possibly shiplap. &nbsp;However, my wife has lately decided that she =
doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try =
something different. &nbsp;I wanted to install something temporary while =
she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s =
ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the =
trick, at least for the holidays. &nbsp;To our surprise, they had a pair =
of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would =
look really good in the house. &nbsp;They are solid wood, I think =
poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. =
&nbsp;I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back if =
there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.&nbsp;</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">There is a possibility =
that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door =
hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. &nbsp;I will try that, =
but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. &nbsp;It it doesn=E2=80=99=
t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to =
narrow the doors a bit. &nbsp;This <i class=3D"">should</i> be possible, =
since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, =
so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =
&nbsp;</div><div class=3D"">(For what it is worth, I should add here =
that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to =
make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them =
down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. &nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I currently have a good bench top =
planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand =
planer that might work. &nbsp;But, of course, I would be happy to buy a =
new one or another tool that would do the job. &nbsp;We are probably =
looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my =
wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. =
&nbsp;So, what does the group think? &nbsp;Can I safely take about =
1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. &nbsp;Is an electric hand =
planer my best option, or is there another way? &nbsp;They will be =
painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have =
to be smooth and even.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to =
all!</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Jim</div></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Miq Millman via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:08:59 -0800

--===============6090233934553811032==

--000000000000c8c994059a4eceef
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I just did something similar:  had a door that was too wide, so I used a
router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my
table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about
1/16" off the latch side.

I think you can do something similar.  Look up "router jig to flatten wood"
and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new)
router base.  Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge
slabs and the like.

Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some
plywood and simple rails:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M

Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door,
then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.  Make a pass, move the
jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.

You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but
here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62  (Orange
big box has them for ~$100).

I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum
rectangle tube for the rails,

--
__
Miq Millman   [email-masked]
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions

put up a
 tall
 a
> pocket.  When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the
> cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to m=
ake out of tongue
> and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has lately decid=
ed
> that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try=
 something
> different.  I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and
> decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday t=
o see if
> they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
> holidays.  To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30
> shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.
> They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they ar=
e
> 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I could always dona=
te them
> back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by
 I will
> try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn=E2=
=80=99t
> work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narro=
w
> the doors a bit.  This *should* be possible, since the stiles and rails
> are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about na=
rrowing the entire
> width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are
> currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets
> and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=
=E2=80=9D.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway =
to use,
> and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of course, I would be
> happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job.  We are
> probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that m=
ake my
> wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.  So,
> what does the group think?  Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each=
 face of
> these doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
> another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any rando=
m
> gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000c8c994059a4eceef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I just did something similar:=C2=A0 had a door that was to=
o wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4&quot; deeper then =
ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16&quot; of =
the hinge side and about 1/16&quot; off the latch side.<div><br></div><div>=
I think you can do something similar.=C2=A0 Look up &quot;router jig to fla=
tten wood&quot; and make a sled that is roughly 31&quot; long and as wide a=
s your (possibly new) router base.=C2=A0 Woodworkers use this kind of rig f=
or flattening live edge slabs and the like.</div><div><br></div><div>Here&#=
39;s a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plyw=
ood and simple rails:=C2=A0=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=
=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M</a></div><div=
><br></div><div>Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig=
 on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8&quot; or less at a time.=C2=
=A0 Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make anoth=
er pass, etc.</div><div><br></div><div>You might not even need to finish th=
e final surface with a plane, but here&#39;s a chance to get a nice jack pl=
ane, like the Stanley No. 62=C2=A0 (Orange big box has them for ~$100).</di=
v><div><br></div><div>I&#39;ve done this, for end grain cutting boards, whe=
re I used a 1x2&quot; aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div><div><br =
clear=3D"all"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmai=
l=3D"gmail_signature">--<br>__<br>Miq Millman=C2=A0=C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>Tualatin, OR=
=C2=A0 Big Llama Productions<br></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019=
 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
eam.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;">=
<div>I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have co=
me up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.=C2=A0 I ne=
ed to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30&quot; barn doors, one of which will =
slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.=C2=A0 So, not exactly a pocket doo=
r, but it needs to fit into a pocket.=C2=A0 When we designed/installed the =
kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possib=
ly shiplap.=C2=A0 However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=
=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.=
=C2=A0 I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides =
and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if t=
hey had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays=
.=C2=A0 To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker s=
tyle doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.=C2=A0 The=
y are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3=
/4=E2=80=9D thick.=C2=A0 I bought them anyway, figuring I could always dona=
te them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.=C2=A0</d=
iv><div><br></div><div>There is a possibility that I might be able to make =
the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about =
1 5/8=E2=80=9D.=C2=A0 I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are th=
at precise.=C2=A0 It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-d=
onating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.=C2=A0 This <i>shou=
ld</i> be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=
=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of =
the door. =C2=A0</div><div>(For what it is worth, I should add here that wh=
ile the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the ma=
tch the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=
=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I currently have a=
 good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap =
HF hand planer that might work.=C2=A0 But, of course, I would be happy to b=
uy a new one or another tool that would do the job.=C2=A0 We are probably l=
ooking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife =
happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.=C2=A0 So, wha=
t does the group think?=C2=A0 Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each=
 face of these doors.=C2=A0 Is an electric hand planer my best option, or i=
s there another way?=C2=A0 They will be painted in the end, so I can fill i=
n any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!</div=
><div><br></div><div>Jim</div></div>_______________________________________=
________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Brian Kemp via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:05:03 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local 
shop with a door sized industrial sander.

Brian

On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:
> I just did something similar:  had a door that was too wide, so I used 
> a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door 
> through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge 
> side and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>
> I think you can do something similar.  Look up "router jig to flatten 
> wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your 
> (possibly new) router base.  Woodworkers use this kind of rig for 
> flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>
> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using 
> some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M
>
> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the 
> door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.  Make a 
> pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another 
> pass, etc.
>
> here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62  
> (Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>
> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" 
> aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,
>
> --
> __
> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk 
>
>     I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and
>     have come up with a problem I would like the group’s help with.  I
>     need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30" barn doors, one of which will
>     slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket
>     door, but it needs to fit into a pocket.  When we
>     designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets
>     for a 1 3/8” - 1 1/2” door, which I planned to make out of tongue
>     and groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has
>     lately decided that she doesn’t like the look of the board door
>     and wants to try something different.  I wanted to install
>     something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to
>     Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore yesterday to see if they had
>     anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
>     way to make them work.
>     There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work
>     by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1
>     5/8”.  I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that
>     precise.  It it doesn’t work, my only option - besides re-donating
>     the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.  This /should/ be
>     possible, since the stiles and rails are 4” and 8”, respectively,
>     currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the
>     cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about
>     84” x 29”.
>
>     I currently have a good bench top planer that I can’t see anyway
>     to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work.  But, of
>     course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that
>     would do the job.  We are probably looking at more than $1000 for
>     a pair of 8’ doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of
>     room in the budget for a new tool.  So, what does the group
>     think?  Can I safely take about 1/8” off each face of these
>     doors.  Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
>     another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in
>     any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>

--------------E673BA014669412A9B11B561
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a
    local shop with a door sized industrial sander.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via
      Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">I just did something similar:  had a door that was
        too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4"
        deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit
        less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch
        side.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I think you can do something similar.  Look up "router jig
          to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and
          as wide as your (possibly new) router base.  Woodworkers use
          this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make
          it using some plywood and simple rails:  <a
            href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M"
            moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M</a></div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig
          on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a
          time.  Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the
          bit, make another pass, etc.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>You might not even need to finish the final surface with a
          plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the
          Stanley No. 62  (Orange big box has them for ~$100).</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used
          a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div>
        <div><br clear="all">
          <div>
            <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
              data-smartmail="gmail_signature">--<br>
              __<br>
              Miq Millman   <a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a><br>
              Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions<br>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26
          AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div style="overflow-wrap: break-word;">
            <div>I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled
              house and have come up with a problem I would like the
              group’s help with.  I need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30"
              barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
              kitchen cabinet.  So, not exactly a pocket door, but it
              needs to fit into a pocket.  When we designed/installed
              the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8”
              - 1 1/2” door, which I planned to make out of tongue and
              groove boards or possibly shiplap.  However, my wife has
              lately decided that she doesn’t like the look of the board
              door and wants to try something different.  I wanted to
              install something temporary while she shops and decides
              and we went to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore yesterday to
              see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick,
              at least for the holidays.  To our surprise, they had a
              pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50
              each that would look really good in the house.  They are
              solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that
              they are 1 3/4” thick.  I bought them anyway, figuring I
              could always donate them back if there wasn’t a good way
              to make them work. </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>There is a possibility that I might be able to make the
              doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the
              opening is about 1 5/8”.  I will try that, but doubt the
              wall tolerances are that precise.  It it doesn’t work, my
              only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to
              narrow the doors a bit.  This <i>should</i> be possible,
              since the stiles and rails are 4” and 8”, respectively, so
              I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the
              door.  </div>
            <div>(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the
              doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to
              make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be
              cutting them down to about 84” x 29”.  </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>I currently have a good bench top planer that I can’t
              see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might
              work.  But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one
              or another tool that would do the job.  We are probably
              looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8’ doors that
              make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget
              for a new tool.  So, what does the group think?  Can I
              safely take about 1/8” off each face of these doors.  Is
              an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
              another way?  They will be painted in the end, so I can
              fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth
              and even.</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to
              all!</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Jim</div>
          </div>
          _______________________________________________<br>
          <br>
          <a href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a><br>
          Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html"
            rel="noreferrer" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
          Suggested annual donation  $12.96<br>
          Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"
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            target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
          <br>
          Unsubscribe/Manage: <a
            href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]"
            rel="noreferrer" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]</a><br>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive" moz-do-not-send="true">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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[email-masked]

--===============5311963146325278531==--

---

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 18:41:42 -0500

--===============6914151659875571490==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA"

--Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Thanks guys.  The sled looks pretty easy to make and would certainly do =
the trick.  One other suggestion gave me another idea, which would be to =
use my bench planer to =E2=80=98mill=E2=80=99 a piece of wood to =
perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, in effect giving =
me a larger flat surface.  I would think I could then use a router with =
a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, removing a bit of material =
as I go.  The spacer would give me a flat, even surface all the way to =
the inside.  I would think that would work fine, without the need to =
build a sled.

However, it may all be academic now.  I studied the doors more carefully =
a few hours ago and realized that they are not solid wood, but MDF with =
about an 1/8=E2=80=9D veneer on the front and an inch or so of poplar on =
the sides.  No wonder they are so heavy.  The MDF and the poplar are =
about the same color and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole =
saw marks gave the appearance of grain.  Probably wishful thinking on my =
part.   I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is =
possible a tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the =
way though the veneer won=E2=80=99t leave me with an acceptable surface =
for paint.  I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful =
modifying the track and be able to make it work that way.  I=E2=80=99ll =
measure extra carefully!  I won=E2=80=99t have access to a milling =
machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to stay =
dormant for a week or so.  Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime!

Jim

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local =
>> I just did something similar:  had a door that was too wide, so I =
used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door =
through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side =
and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>>=20
>> I think you can do something similar.  Look up "router jig to flatten =
wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your =
(possibly new) router base.  Woodworkers use this kind of rig for =
flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>>=20
>> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using =
some plywood and simple rails:  =
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M =
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M>
>>=20
>> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the =
door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.  Make a pass, =
move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.
>>=20
>> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but =
here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62  =
(Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>>=20
>> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" =
>> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk =
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]>

--Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks guys. &nbsp;The sled looks pretty easy to make and =
would certainly do the trick. &nbsp;One other suggestion gave me another =
idea, which would be to use my bench planer to =E2=80=98mill=E2=80=99 a =
piece of wood to perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, =
in effect giving me a larger flat surface. &nbsp;I would think I could =
then use a router with a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, =
removing a bit of material as I go. &nbsp;The spacer would give me a =
flat, even surface all the way to the inside. &nbsp;I would think that =
would work fine, without the need to build a sled.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">However, it may all be academic now. =
&nbsp;I studied the doors more carefully a few hours ago and realized =
that they are not solid wood, but MDF with about an 1/8=E2=80=9D veneer =
on the front and an inch or so of poplar on the sides. &nbsp;No wonder =
they are so heavy. &nbsp;The MDF and the poplar are about the same color =
and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole saw marks gave the =
appearance of grain. &nbsp;Probably wishful thinking on my part. &nbsp; =
I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is possible a =
tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the way though =
the veneer won=E2=80=99t leave me with an acceptable surface for paint. =
&nbsp;I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful =
modifying the track and be able to make it work that way. &nbsp;I=E2=80=99=
ll measure extra carefully! &nbsp;I won=E2=80=99t have access to a =
milling machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to =
stay dormant for a week or so. &nbsp;Plenty to keep me busy in the =
meantime!</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Jim<br=
 class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D"">
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D"">
 =20
  <div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" class=3D"">
    I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a
    local shop with a door sized industrial sander.<br class=3D"">
    <br class=3D"">
    Brian<br class=3D"">
    <br class=3D"">
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman =
via
      Shop-talk wrote:<br class=3D"">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" =
cite=3D"mid:CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=[email-masked]=
il.com" class=3D"">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D"">
      <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">I just did something similar:&nbsp; =
had a door that was
        too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4"
        deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit
        less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch
        side.
        <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
        </div>
        <div class=3D"">I think you can do something similar.&nbsp; Look =
up "router jig
          to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and
          as wide as your (possibly new) router base.&nbsp; Woodworkers =
use
          this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the =
like.</div>
        <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
        </div>
        <div class=3D"">Here's a good video that explains it and shows =
how to make
          it using some plywood and simple rails:&nbsp;&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M" =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true" =
class=3D"">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M</a></div>
        <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
        </div>
        <div class=3D"">Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and =
set the jig
          on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a
          time.&nbsp; Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter =
of the
          bit, make another pass, etc.</div>
        <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
        </div>
        <div class=3D"">You might not even need to finish the final =
surface with a
          plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the
          Stanley No. 62&nbsp; (Orange big box has them for =
~$100).</div>
        <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
        </div>
        <div class=3D"">I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, =
where I used
          a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div>
        <div class=3D""><br clear=3D"all" class=3D"">
          <div class=3D"">
            <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" =
data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">--<br class=3D"">
              __<br class=3D"">
              Miq Millman&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br class=3D"">
              Tualatin, OR&nbsp; Big Llama Productions<br class=3D"">
            </div>
          </div>
          <br class=3D"">
        </div>
      </div>
      <br class=3D"">
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at =
6:26
          AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br class=3D"">
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;" class=3D"">
            <div class=3D"">I am installing a barn door in my recently =
remodeled
              house and have come up with a problem I would like the
              group=E2=80=99s help with.&nbsp; I need to put up a pair =
of 8=E2=80=99 x 30"
              barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
              kitchen cabinet.&nbsp; So, not exactly a pocket door, but =
it
              needs to fit into a pocket.&nbsp; When we =
designed/installed
              the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 =
3/8=E2=80=9D
              - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to make out of =
tongue and
              groove boards or possibly shiplap.&nbsp; However, my wife =
has
              lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of =
the board
              door and wants to try something different.&nbsp; I wanted =
to
              install something temporary while she shops and decides
              and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore =
yesterday to
              see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick,
              at least for the holidays.&nbsp; To our surprise, they had =
a
              pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50
              each that would look really good in the house.&nbsp; They =
are
              solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that
              they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick.&nbsp; I bought them anyway, =
figuring I
              could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a =
good way
              to make them work.&nbsp;</div>
            <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
            </div>
            <div class=3D"">There is a possibility that I might be able =
to make the
              doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the
              opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D.&nbsp; I will try that, =
but doubt the
              wall tolerances are that precise.&nbsp; It it doesn=E2=80=99=
t work, my
              only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to
              narrow the doors a bit.&nbsp; This <i class=3D"">should</i> =
be possible,
              since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, =
respectively, so
              I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the
              door. &nbsp;</div>
            <div class=3D"">(For what it is worth, I should add here =
that while the
              doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to
              make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be
              cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =
&nbsp;</div>
            <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
            </div>
            <div class=3D"">I currently have a good bench top planer =
that I can=E2=80=99t
              see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might
              work.&nbsp; But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new =
one
              or another tool that would do the job.&nbsp; We are =
probably
              looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors =
that
              make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget
              for a new tool.&nbsp; So, what does the group think?&nbsp; =
Can I
              safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these =
doors.&nbsp; Is
              an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
              another way?&nbsp; They will be painted in the end, so I =
can
              fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth
              and even.</div>
            <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
            </div>
            <div class=3D"">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy =
Holidays to
              all!</div>
            <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
            </div>
            <div class=3D"">Jim</div>
          </div>
          _______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
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      <fieldset class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class=3D"moz-quote-pre" =
wrap=3D"">_______________________________________________

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