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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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 <A78DF784-F313-4CA1-9F7D-D681F44DEB8C@icloud.com>
Subject: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford 
Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think 
I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty, 
though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear 
yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked 
me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them 
differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine 
that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking 
about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter, 
because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I 
shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and 
re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed 
drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff 
is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any 
financial motive for them to want to do this.

-Steve


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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:53:30 -0500
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4279335172903306992==

--000000000000f104a905968d2f11

Well, I vote he has no clue what he's talking about.  What I learned was
that static and spin balancing were not the same thing.  Static was done
with a bubble balance without spinning.  Spinning meant spinning.  There
was spinning on the car and spinning off the car, but I don't think anyone
does it on the car anymore.

I don't know why they would balance front and back differently, seems like
balanced is balanced regardless of front or rear.

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
> Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
> I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
> though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear
> yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked
> me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them
> differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
> that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking
> about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
> because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I
> shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
> re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed
> drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff
> is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
> financial motive for them to want to do this.
>
> -Steve
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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--000000000000f104a905968d2f11
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Well, I vote he has no clue what he&#39;s talking about.=
=C2=A0 What I learned was that static and spin balancing were not the same =
thing.=C2=A0 Static was done with a bubble balance without spinning.=C2=A0 =
Spinning meant spinning.=C2=A0 There was spinning on the car and spinning o=
ff the car, but I don&#39;t think anyone does it on the car anymore.<div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I don&#39;t know why they would bala=
nce front and back differently, seems like balanced is balanced regardless =
of front or rear.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr=
" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop=
-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquot=
e class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc sol=
id;padding-left:1ex">Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for=
 my Ford <br>
Expedition at BJs.=C2=A0 It was not a great experience, and I don&#39;t thi=
nk <br>
I&#39;d do it again.=C2=A0 The tires do come with a road hazard warranty, <=
br>
though, and free flat repair.=C2=A0 I got a puncture in the right rear <br>
yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.=C2=A0 The guy there asked =
<br>
me if it was a front or rear tire.=C2=A0 He said they balance them <br>
differently.=C2=A0 He said it was &quot;statically balanced&quot; but on a =
machine <br>
that spins it and uses lasers.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t know what he is talking <b=
r>
about.=C2=A0 I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn&#39;t matter, <=
br>
because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.=C2=A0 He told me I <br>
shouldn&#39;t do that.=C2=A0 I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate =
and <br>
re-balance.=C2=A0 None of this makes any sense to me.=C2=A0 Have things cha=
nged <br>
drastically or is this guy nuts?=C2=A0 I should note that all this stuff <b=
r>
is free when you buy the tires there, so I don&#39;t really see any <br>
financial motive for them to want to do this.<br>
<br>
-Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmai=
l.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000f104a905968d2f11--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 15:55:40 2019
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:55:26 -0800
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: old dirtbeard via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8482398426016855895==

--000000000000c7626305968d36b5

HI Steve,

I believe that most tire warranties require tire rotation to be valid.

If it is a Corvette with offset front and rears, I realize that you could
not rotate front to rear, but for normal vehicles, this does not make sense
to me...

best,

doug

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 2:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
> Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
> I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
> though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear
> yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked
> me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them
> differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
> that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking
> about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
> because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I
> shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
> re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed
> drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff
> is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
> financial motive for them to want to do this.
>
> -Steve
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com
>
>

--000000000000c7626305968d36b5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">HI Steve,<div><br></div><div>I believe=C2=A0that most tire=
 warranties require tire rotation to be valid.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>If it is a Corvette with=C2=A0offset front and rears, I realize that you=
 could not rotate front to rear, but for normal vehicles, this does not mak=
e=C2=A0sense to me...</div><div><br></div><div>best,</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>doug</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 2:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk &l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0=
px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Two y=
ears ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford <br>
Expedition at BJs.=C2=A0 It was not a great experience, and I don&#39;t thi=
nk <br>
I&#39;d do it again.=C2=A0 The tires do come with a road hazard warranty, <=
br>
though, and free flat repair.=C2=A0 I got a puncture in the right rear <br>
yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.=C2=A0 The guy there asked =
<br>
me if it was a front or rear tire.=C2=A0 He said they balance them <br>
differently.=C2=A0 He said it was &quot;statically balanced&quot; but on a =
machine <br>
that spins it and uses lasers.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t know what he is talking <b=
r>
about.=C2=A0 I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn&#39;t matter, <=
br>
because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.=C2=A0 He told me I <br>
shouldn&#39;t do that.=C2=A0 I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate =
and <br>
re-balance.=C2=A0 None of this makes any sense to me.=C2=A0 Have things cha=
nged <br>
drastically or is this guy nuts?=C2=A0 I should note that all this stuff <b=
r>
is free when you buy the tires there, so I don&#39;t really see any <br>
financial motive for them to want to do this.<br>
<br>
-Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 18:11:50 -0500
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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	boundary="=====================_116384889==.ALT"

--=====================_116384889==.ALT
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All the stuff you guys are saying is exactly what 
I always understood.  I am quite sure they are 
not doing on the car balancing.  Especially not 
for this tire, because I just brought in the 
loose wheel while I kept using the car with the 
spare.  I cannot report what was actually done 
because the garage area is completely separate 
from where the customer gets to be.  Maybe if it 
was a hot summer day I could peek in the open 
garage door.     The main question I had is 
whether different balancing on front and rear was 
now a "thing."  Apparently not.  Thanks.

-Steve

At 05:56 PM 11/4/2019, Ian McFetridge wrote:
>Got me at a loss, unless it is done on the car 
>and they are also balancing the rotating 
>assembly, do front/rear could matter.=C2  It would 
>be telling to report what he actually does.
>
>On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 5:53 PM Benjamin Zwissler 
>via Shop-talk 
>Well, I vote he has no clue what he's talking 
>about.=C2  What I learned was that static and spin 
>balancing were not the same thing.=C2  Static was 
>done with a bubble balance without 
>spinning.=C2  Spinning meant spinning.=C2  There was 
>spinning on the car and spinning off the car, 
>but I don't think anyone does it on the car anymore.
>I don't know why they would balance front and 
>back differently, seems like balanced is balanced regardless of front or r=
ear.
>On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:32 PM Steven Trovato via 
e:
>
>Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
>Expedition at BJs.=C2  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
>I'd do it again.=C2  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
>though, and free flat repair.=C2  I got a puncture in the right rear
>yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.=C2  The guy there asked
>me if it was a front or rear tire.=C2  He said they balance them
>differently.=C2  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
>that spins it and uses lasers.=C2  I don't know what he is talking
>about.=C2  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
>because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.=C2  He told me I
>shouldn't do that.=C2  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
>re-balance.=C2  None of this makes any sense to me.=C2  Have things change=
d
>drastically or is this guy nuts?=C2  I should note that all this stuff
>is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
>financial motive for them to want to do this.
>
>-Steve


-- 
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<html>
<body>
All the stuff you guys are saying is exactly what I always
understood.&nbsp; I am quite sure they are not doing on the car
balancing.&nbsp; Especially not for this tire, because I just brought in
the loose wheel while I kept using the car with the spare.&nbsp; I cannot
report what was actually done because the garage area is completely
separate from where the customer gets to be.&nbsp; Maybe if it was a hot
summer day I could peek in the open garage door.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
The main question I had is whether different balancing on front and rear
was now a &quot;thing.&quot;&nbsp; Apparently not.&nbsp; Thanks.
<br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 05:56 PM 11/4/2019, Ian McFetridge wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">Got me at a loss, unless it =
is
done on the car and they are also balancing the rotating assembly, do
front/rear could matter.=C2&nbsp; It would be telling to report what he
actually does.<br><br>
On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 5:53 PM Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a=
>
&gt; wrote:
<dl>
<dd>Well, I vote he has no clue what he's talking about.=C2&nbsp; What I
learned was that static and spin balancing were not the same
thing.=C2&nbsp; Static was done with a bubble balance without
spinning.=C2&nbsp; Spinning meant spinning.=C2&nbsp; There was spinning on
the car and spinning off the car, but I don't think anyone does it on the
car anymore.<br>

<dd>I don't know why they would balance front and back differently, seems
like balanced is balanced regardless of front or rear.<br>

<dd>On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a=
>
&gt; wrote:<br><br>

<dl>
<dd>Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford 
<dd>Expedition at BJs.=C2&nbsp; It was not a great experience, and I don't
think 
<dd>I'd do it again.=C2&nbsp; The tires do come with a road hazard
warranty, 
<dd>though, and free flat repair.=C2&nbsp; I got a puncture in the right
rear 
<dd>yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.=C2&nbsp; The guy there=

asked 
<dd>me if it was a front or rear tire.=C2&nbsp; He said they balance them 
<dd>differently.=C2&nbsp; He said it was &quot;statically balanced&quot;
but on a machine 
<dd>that spins it and uses lasers.=C2&nbsp; I don't know what he is talking=
 
<dd>about.=C2&nbsp; I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't
matter, 
<dd>because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.=C2&nbsp; He told me=

I 
<dd>shouldn't do that.=C2&nbsp; I have to bring the vehicle to them to
rotate and 
<dd>re-balance.=C2&nbsp; None of this makes any sense to me.=C2&nbsp; Have
things changed 
<dd>drastically or is this guy nuts?=C2&nbsp; I should note that all this
stuff 
<dd>is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any 
<dd>financial motive for them to want to do this.<br><br>

<dd>-Steve
</dl>
</dl></blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:18:12 -0600
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>,
 shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: David Scheidt via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 4:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
> Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
> I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
> though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear
> yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked
> me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them
> differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
> that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking
> about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
> because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I
> shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
> re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed
> drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff
> is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
> financial motive for them to want to do this.

There are a fair number of shops that balance the front wheels-to-be
when rotating tires.  Fronts cause more complaints (you tend to feel
the wobble in the steering wheel), so making sure they're balance can
save a come back.  The fronts are probably okay, or the the customer
would complain.   I can't imagine any reason to balance the ends
differently, and any repaired tire should be balanced.  (I, of course,
repaired hundreds of tires without balancing them, or dismounting for
inspection, when I did this stuff for money, but I never did my own
that way, and wouldn't put up with it today on a modern low profile
tire.)

there are wheel balancers that have lasers, but I'll the ones I've
ever seen just use it to put a line where the weight goes.  (this
saves much time, and given most wheel techs need bibs, mistakes.)
There are fancy machines that use sonar to detect the size of the
wheel assembly (which it needs to know to figure out weights).  again
saves time and errors/

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 11:32:45 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4500850619441144109==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_4815058E-B302-4E2B-8A46-491EB06BAC6F"


--Apple-Mail=_4815058E-B302-4E2B-8A46-491EB06BAC6F
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =
=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I =
was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system =
at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the controller to =
run through each zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system =
is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging =
something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, =
but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would =
pay for itself on the first use: =
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B005=
5QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&=
hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hv=
targid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1 =
<https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D3=
09735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D=
&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&h=
vtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1>. I could save around $10 and just =
buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems =
like a good addition.

I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than =
it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  =
(https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html =
<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html>).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.

Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional =
to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been =
called a no-brainer before.

Thanks,
Jim=

--Apple-Mail=_4815058E-B302-4E2B-8A46-491EB06BAC6F
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to pay someone to do that job. &nbsp;While I understand =
the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each =
valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize =
the system at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the =
controller to run through each zone until no more water comes out. =
&nbsp;(FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was =
thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my =
compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a =
good investment that would pay for itself on the first use:&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets=
/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0=
&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&a=
mp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-5=
70302725618&amp;psc=3D1" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Fauc=
ets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3D=
df0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D=
11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3D=
c&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpl=
a-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I could save around $10 and just buy a =
hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a =
good addition.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I =
have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it =
is worth to get air to the master drain valve. &nbsp;Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. =
&nbsp;(<a =
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-comp=
ressor-68740.html" =
class=3D"">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html</a>). &nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 =
lbs, so I figured something around this should be sufficient.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Am I missing anything? =
&nbsp;Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do this job? =
&nbsp;It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a =
no-brainer before.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Thanks,</div><div class=3D"">Jim</div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_4815058E-B302-4E2B-8A46-491EB06BAC6F--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4500850619441144109==--

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To: "Jim Stone" <1789alpine@gmail.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:40:02 -0600
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: john niolon via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============4422468503604430483==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0950_01D593C5.61328980"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Jim.  I do the same every year.  My system is a little larger  =
1500=E2=80=99 of pipe in 7 zones.  I have a backflow preventer valve on =
my sprinkler main line from the house main.  It has a port on each side =
of the valve that you can screw a male air compressor fitting into.  I =
simply drag my hose out the box and using a standard quick coupler on =
the hose connect it to the male fitting on the BFP valve. =20
Then, I manually cycle thru each zone till I get no water at the =
farthest sprinkler head... easy to do and doesn=E2=80=99t take but a =
minute or two on each zone.

john=20

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk=20
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 10:32 AM
To: Shop Talk=20
Subject: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System

I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =
=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I =
was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system =
at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the controller to =
run through each zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system =
is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging =
something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, =
but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would =
pay for itself on the first use: =
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D=
309735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D=
&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&=
hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1. I could save around $10 and just =
buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems =
like a good addition.=20

I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than =
it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  =
(https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor=
-68740.html).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.

Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional =
to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been =
called a no-brainer before.

Thanks,
Jim


-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net


------=_NextPart_000_0950_01D593C5.61328980
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space" =
dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hi Jim.&nbsp; I do the same every year.&nbsp; My system is a little =

larger&nbsp; 1500=E2=80=99 of pipe in 7 zones.&nbsp; I have a backflow =
preventer valve=20
on my sprinkler main line from the house main.&nbsp; It has a port on =
each side=20
of the valve that you can screw a male air compressor fitting =
into.&nbsp; I=20
simply drag my hose out the box and using a standard quick coupler on =
the hose=20
connect it to the male fitting on the BFP valve.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>Then, I manually cycle thru each zone till I get no water at the =
farthest=20
sprinkler head... easy to do and doesn=E2=80=99t take but a minute or =
two on each=20
zone.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dshop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">Jim Stone via Shop-talk</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 05, 2019 10:32 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dshop-talk@Autox.Team.Net=20
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net">Shop Talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler =
System</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>I=20
need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to=20
pay someone to do that job.&nbsp; While I understand the =
=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it=20
is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is =
easier to=20
just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual =
function=20
on the controller to run through each zone until no more water comes =
out.&nbsp;=20
(FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking =
about=20
rigging something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and =
walk away,=20
but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would =
pay for=20
itself on the first use: <A=20
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucet=
s/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Dd=
f0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D=
11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3D=
c&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dp=
la-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1">https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-S=
ystems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhypro=
d-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvn=
etw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp=
;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D90=
04590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</A>.=20
I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, =
but the=20
shut off valve seems like a good addition.=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble =
than it=20
is worth to get air to the master drain valve.&nbsp; Instead, I was =
planning on=20
just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.&nbsp; (<A=20
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-com=
pressor-68740.html">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-=
lube-air-compressor-68740.html</A>).&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around =
this=20
should be sufficient.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Am I missing anything?&nbsp; Is there any good reason to pay a =
professional=20
to do this job?&nbsp; It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve =
been called a=20
no-brainer before.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Jim</DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR><BR>Shop-talk@autox.te=
am.net<BR>Donate:=20
$12.96<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk=20
http://autox.team.net/archive<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net<BR><BR></=
DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4422468503604430483==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 10:08:14 2019
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 11:07:58 -0600
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
 definitions=2019-11-05_06:, , signatures=0
 malwarescore=0
 phishscore=0 bulkscore=0 spamscore=0 clxscore=1015 mlxscore=0
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Pat Horne via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============2363074026073705219==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-7A0DAC6A-22D1-40D3-BFE5-469789803B83
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Might be worth having a =E2=80=9Cprofessional=E2=80=9D come out once to see h=
ow it should be done.=20

Personally, I=E2=80=99d just use the compressor at the drain.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity


> On Nov 5, 2019, at 10:33 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team=
.net> wrote:
>=20

=EF=BB=BFI need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=
=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =E2=
=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I was tol=
d a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system at the dra=
in valve and then use the manual function on the controller to run through e=
ach zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large a=
nd has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow=
 me to attach my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which s=
eems like a good investment that would pay for itself on the first use: http=
s://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ=
/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D3097357143=
75&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&hvptwo=3D&=
hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvtargid=3Dpla=
-570302725618&psc=3D1. I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick d=
isconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.

I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it is=
 worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was planning on jus=
t using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  (https://www.harborfre=
ight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html).   My water p=
ressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be=
 sufficient.

Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do=
 this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a=
 no-brainer before.

Thanks,
Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-7A0DAC6A-22D1-40D3-BFE5-469789803B83
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Might be worth having a =E2=80=9Cprofession=
al=E2=80=9D come out once to see how it should be done.&nbsp;<div><br></div>=
<div>Personally, I=E2=80=99d just use the compressor at the drain.&nbsp;</di=
v><div><br></div><div>Peace,</div><div>Pat<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne=
&nbsp;<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 5, 2019, at 10:33 AM, Jim Sto=
ne via Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D=
"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler s=
ystem and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job. &nbsp;=
While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually o=
pen each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressur=
ize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the co=
ntroller to run through each zone until no more water comes out. &nbsp;(FWIW=
, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about riggin=
g something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, bu=
t found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would pay fo=
r itself on the first use:&nbsp;<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-=
Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=
=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&am=
p;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&a=
mp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D900=
4590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1" class=3D"">https://www.ama=
zon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_=
df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&=
amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D=
&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&am=
p;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I coul=
d save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the s=
hut off valve seems like a good addition.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></di=
v><div class=3D"">I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more t=
rouble than it is worth to get air to the master drain valve. &nbsp;Instead,=
 I was planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. &=
nbsp;(<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-a=
ir-compressor-68740.html" class=3D"">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-h=
p-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html</a>). &nbsp; My water pressure i=
s regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be sufficie=
nt.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Am I missing a=
nything? &nbsp;Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do this job=
? &nbsp;It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-=
brainer before.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Th=
anks,</div><div class=3D"">Jim</div><span>__________________________________=
_____________</span><br><span></span><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</spa=
n><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggeste=
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 12:16:17 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7823117303994877913==
	boundary="=====================_181454809==.ALT"

--=====================_181454809==.ALT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jim,
I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago 
and I have been using it every time I need to 
winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or 
other similar tasks.  I usually run a garden hose 
from whatever drain valve I want to the 
compressor.  I use my adapter at the compressor 
end of the garden hose to connect to the air 
supply.  I have enough garden hose that routing 
to the drain valve isn't really a problem.  I 
don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a 
lot of air volume through to push the water 
out.  My main garage compressor is my first 
choice, but I have used a smaller portable one 
and it did OK.  As for purchasing that adapter, I 
would do it.  I don't know if such a thing 
existed when I made mine.  Twenty bucks would be 
worth it to me for the convenience.  Of course, 
if you have the pieces already and you don't want 
to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would 
also be a reasonable thing to do.  I don't have a 
shutoff on mine and I don't really miss it.

-Steve

At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler 
>system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someone 
>to do that job.  While I understand the 
>=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open 
>each valve, I was told a few years ago that it 
>is easier to just pressurize the system at the 
>drain valve and then use the manual function on 
>the controller to run through each zone until no 
>more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not 
>that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking 
>about rigging something up that would allow me 
>to attach my compressor and walk away, but found 
>this on Amazon, which seems like a good 
>investment that would pay for itself on the 
>first use: 
><https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&h=
vptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvta=
rgid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1>https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-=
Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod=
-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D309735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11=
131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvloc=
int=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1. 
>I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to 
>quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good additio=
n.
>
>I have fairly large compressor, but think it 
>will be more trouble than it is worth to get air 
>to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was 
>planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal 
>portable 
>compressor. 
>(<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor=
-68740.html>https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html). 
>My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I 
>figured something around this should be sufficient.
>
>Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason 
>to pay a professional to do this job?  It seems 
>like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-brainer before.=

>
>Thanks,
>Jim


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<html>
<body>
Jim,<br>
I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using it
every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or other
similar tasks.&nbsp; I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain
valve I want to the compressor.&nbsp; I use my adapter at the compressor
end of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.&nbsp; I have enough
garden hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a problem.&nbsp;
I don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume
through to push the water out.&nbsp; My main garage compressor is my
first choice, but I have used a smaller portable one and it did OK.&nbsp;
As for purchasing that adapter, I would do it.&nbsp; I don't know if such
a thing existed when I made mine.&nbsp; Twenty bucks would be worth it to
me for the convenience.&nbsp; Of course, if you have the pieces already
and you don't want to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would also
be a reasonable thing to do.&nbsp; I don't have a shutoff on mine and I
don't really miss it.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve <br><br>
At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">I need to drain and winteriz=
e my
new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do =
that
job.&nbsp; While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is =
to
manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier to
just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual
function on the controller to run through each zone until no more water
comes out.&nbsp; (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I
was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my
compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a
good investment that would pay for itself on the first use:
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Fauce=
ts/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf=
0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&am=
p;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570=
302725618&amp;psc=3D1">
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055=
QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadi=
d=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144=
962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=
=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&=
amp;psc=3D1</a>
=2E I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect
fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.<br><br>
I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it
is worth to get air to the master drain valve.&nbsp; Instead, I was
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.&nbsp;
(<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html">
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68=
740.html</a>
).&nbsp;&nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured
something around this should be sufficient.<br><br>
Am I missing anything?&nbsp; Is there any good reason to pay a
professional to do this job?&nbsp; It seems like a no-brainer to me, but
I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-brainer before.<br><br>
Thanks,<br>
Jim</blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
<table style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 12:20:47 -0500
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 mail.com>
References: <003901d58abc$09225f70$1b671e50$@GMail.com>
 <A78DF784-F313-4CA1-9F7D-D681F44DEB8C@icloud.com>
 <3A.EA.13198.FD6A0CD5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <CA+k5sur5SqT1RFy9WN5oASUudXwK03KnA3_t6dKebtwgixwXtg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Dave.  All of that is in line with my understanding.  It was 
the whole front vs back question, because they "balance them 
differently" that had me puzzled!  Still haven't heard a good 
explanation for that, other than that he doesn't know what he's 
talking about.  I think that's the conclusion I'm going with!

-Steve T.

At 10:18 PM 11/4/2019, David Scheidt wrote:

>On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 4:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
><shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
> > Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
> > I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
> > though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear
> > yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked
> > me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them
> > differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
> > that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking
> > about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
> > because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I
> > shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
> > re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed
> > drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff
> > is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
> > financial motive for them to want to do this.
>
>There are a fair number of shops that balance the front wheels-to-be
>when rotating tires.  Fronts cause more complaints (you tend to feel
>the wobble in the steering wheel), so making sure they're balance can
>save a come back.  The fronts are probably okay, or the the customer
>would complain.   I can't imagine any reason to balance the ends
>differently, and any repaired tire should be balanced.  (I, of course,
>repaired hundreds of tires without balancing them, or dismounting for
>inspection, when I did this stuff for money, but I never did my own
>that way, and wouldn't put up with it today on a modern low profile
>tire.)
>
>there are wheel balancers that have lasers, but I'll the ones I've
>ever seen just use it to put a line where the weight goes.  (this
>saves much time, and given most wheel techs need bibs, mistakes.)
>There are fancy machines that use sonar to detect the size of the
>wheel assembly (which it needs to know to figure out weights).  again
>saves time and errors/
>
>--
>David Scheidt
>dmscheidt@gmail.com


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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:48:50 -0500
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
 <CF.2A.03419.C7EA1CD5@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4753717707333948602==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_D03C605D-76B4-447D-B507-F2C337AF657A"


--Apple-Mail=_D03C605D-76B4-447D-B507-F2C337AF657A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, =
well ahead of any freezing temperatures.

John=E2=80=99s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me =
rethinking one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an =
outside hose barb that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had =
thought it made sense to move ahead of that and start where the system =
originates in the basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest =
of the system and blow it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason =
not to do it that.  If there is a backflow preventer valve between the =
hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from =
there?

Jim

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 12:16 PM, Steven Trovato via Shop-talk =
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> Jim,
> I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using =
it every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or =
other similar tasks.  I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain =
valve I want to the compressor.  I use my adapter at the compressor end =
of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.  I have enough garden =
hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a problem.  I don't =
need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume through to =
push the water out.  My main garage compressor is my first choice, but I =
have used a smaller portable one and it did OK.  As for purchasing that =
adapter, I would do it.  I don't know if such a thing existed when I =
made mine.  Twenty bucks would be worth it to me for the convenience.  =
Of course, if you have the pieces already and you don't want to wait for =
an adapter to arrive, making it would also be a reasonable thing to do.  =
I don't have a shutoff on mine and I don't really miss it. =20
>=20
> -Steve=20
>=20
> At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=C3=A2=C2=80=
=C2=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I =
understand the =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=98proper=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99 way to do it =
is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is =
easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the =
manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more =
water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). =
I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach =
my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like =
a good investment that would pay for itself on the first use: =
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B005=
5QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&=
hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hv=
targid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1 =
<https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D3=
09735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D=
&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&h=
vtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1> . I could save around $10 and just =
buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems =
like a good addition.
>>=20
>> I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble =
than it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  ( =
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-6=
8740.html =
<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html> ).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.
>>=20
>> Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a =
professional to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but =
I=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99ve been called a no-brainer before.
>>=20
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>=20
>  =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient&utm_term=3Dicon>	=
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<x-msg://45/#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>________________________=
_______________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
>=20


--Apple-Mail=_D03C605D-76B4-447D-B507-F2C337AF657A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks, guys. &nbsp;I just bought the adapter; it will be =
here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.<div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">John=E2=80=99s comment =
about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking one aspect of =
my plan. &nbsp;The system installer put in an outside hose barb that he =
intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made sense to =
move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the =
basement. &nbsp;I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system =
and blow it out from there. &nbsp;Unless there is a good reason not to =
do it that. &nbsp;If there is a&nbsp;backflow preventer valve between =
the hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out =
from there?<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Jim</div><div class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Nov 5, 2019, at 12:16 PM, =
Steven Trovato via Shop-talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
Jim,<br class=3D"">
I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using it
every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or other
similar tasks.&nbsp; I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain
valve I want to the compressor.&nbsp; I use my adapter at the compressor
end of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.&nbsp; I have enough
garden hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a =
problem.&nbsp;
I don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume
through to push the water out.&nbsp; My main garage compressor is my
first choice, but I have used a smaller portable one and it did =
OK.&nbsp;
As for purchasing that adapter, I would do it.&nbsp; I don't know if =
such
a thing existed when I made mine.&nbsp; Twenty bucks would be worth it =
to
me for the convenience.&nbsp; Of course, if you have the pieces already
and you don't want to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would =
also
be a reasonable thing to do.&nbsp; I don't have a shutoff on mine and I
don't really miss it.&nbsp; <br class=3D""><br class=3D"">
-Steve <br class=3D""><br class=3D"">
At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:<br class=3D"">
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite" cite=3D"">I need to drain and =
winterize my
new sprinkler system and can=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99t imagine I need to pay =
someone to do that
job.&nbsp; While I understand the =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=98proper=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99=
 way to do it is to
manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier =
to
just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual
function on the controller to run through each zone until no more water
comes out.&nbsp; (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I
was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my
compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a
good investment that would pay for itself on the first use:
<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets=
/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0=
&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&a=
mp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-5=
70302725618&amp;psc=3D1" class=3D"">
=
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B005=
5QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hva=
did=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794=
144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvc=
mdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725=
618&amp;psc=3D1</a>
. I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect
fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">
I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than =
it
is worth to get air to the master drain valve.&nbsp; Instead, I was
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable =
compressor.&nbsp;
(<a =
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-comp=
ressor-68740.html" class=3D"">
=
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-6=
8740.html</a>
).&nbsp;&nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured
something around this should be sufficient.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">
Am I missing anything?&nbsp; Is there any good reason to pay a
professional to do this job?&nbsp; It seems like a no-brainer to me, but
I=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99ve been called a no-brainer before.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">
Thanks,<br class=3D"">
Jim</blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">
<table style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;" class=3D"">
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style=3D"width: 46px; height: 29px;" class=3D""></a></td>
		<td style=3D"width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: =
#41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
line-height: 18px;" class=3D"">Virus-free. <a =
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height=3D"1" class=3D""> </a></div></div>

_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com<br =
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 13:07:36 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
 <CF.2A.03419.C7EA1CD5@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <BEC1E090-8E61-4C88-9C7A-0D795581A4EA@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's what I always did.  The air you are =

introducing is going in the same direction as the =

usual water flow so it passes through without any problem.

-Steve

At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it =

>will be here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>
>John=E2=80=99s comment about a backflow preventer =

>valve does have me rethinking one aspect of my =

>plan.  The system installer put in an outside =

>hose barb that he intended for blowing out the =

>system, but I had thought it made sense to move =

>ahead of that and start where the system =

>originates in the basement.  I can isolate the =

>sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow =

>it out from there.  Unless there is a good =

>reason not to do it that.  If there is a =

>backflow preventer valve between the hose barb =

>and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>
>Jim


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 (ecelerity 3.6.9.48312 r(Core:3.6.9.0)) with ESMTPA
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 13:14:33 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
 <CF.2A.03419.C7EA1CD5@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <BEC1E090-8E61-4C88-9C7A-0D795581A4EA@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I =

think he is just saying that his backflow =

preventer has a convenient port that he uses to =

connect.  I don't think he is saying that the =

backflow preventer presents any other problem for =

the operation.  I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.

-Steve T.

At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it =

>will be here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>
>John=E2=80=99s comment about a backflow preventer =

>valve does have me rethinking one aspect of my =

>plan.  The system installer put in an outside =

>hose barb that he intended for blowing out the =

>system, but I had thought it made sense to move =

>ahead of that and start where the system =

>originates in the basement.  I can isolate the =

>sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow =

>it out from there.  Unless there is a good =

>reason not to do it that.  If there is a =

>backflow preventer valve between the hose barb =

>and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>
>Jim


-- =

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ive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Randall via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5378395214552537097==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

------IEPIDBYEOJJJEXENQYGCMANN578ODX
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I don't know that this is relevant, but the manual for my on-the-car balanc=
er (an antique so old it actually uses vacuum tubes) talks about "static" a=
nd "dynamic" imbalance as two different tire/wheel conditions=2E Its sensor=
 only works in one direction, so first you check for the tire hopping up an=
d down (which it call static imbalance), then for wobble from side to side =
(dynamic)=2E IIRC, the dynamic check is only done on the front axle=2E
-- Randall
------IEPIDBYEOJJJEXENQYGCMANN578ODX
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I don't know that this is relevant, but the manual for my on-the-car balanc=
er (an antique so old it actually uses vacuum tubes) talks about "static" a=
nd "dynamic" imbalance as two different tire/wheel conditions=2E Its sensor=
 only works in one direction, so first you check for the tire hopping up an=
d down (which it call static imbalance), then for wobble from side to side =
(dynamic)=2E IIRC, the dynamic check is only done on the front axle=2E<br>-=
- Randall
------IEPIDBYEOJJJEXENQYGCMANN578ODX--

--===============5378395214552537097==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============5378395214552537097==--

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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 13:40:39 -0500
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>,shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <003901d58abc$09225f70$1b671e50$@GMail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's interesting.  I always thought of static balancing as being 
done with a bubble balancer sitting still on the floor.  And any 
balancing with the wheel actually spinning I would call 
dynamic.  They obviously use the terms differently.  I imagine it 
wouldn't hurt any if you did both for the rear as well, even if it 
isn't necessary.  The whole premise of on-the-car balancing is that 
you don't want to move the tires around.  Even if you remove and 
replace a wheel, you want to mark it so you put the same lug studs 
through the same wheel holes.  I would think in modern off-the-car 
balancing they should just balance all of the wheels the best they 
can regardless of position.  I suppose they could use a lower 
standard for the rears, but that seems pretty lame to me.

-Steve

At 01:21 PM 11/5/2019, Randall via Shop-talk wrote:
>I don't know that this is relevant, but the manual for my on-the-car 
>balancer (an antique so old it actually uses vacuum tubes) talks 
>about "static" and "dynamic" imbalance as two different tire/wheel 
>conditions. Its sensor only works in one direction, so first you 
>check for the tire hopping up and down (which it call static 
>imbalance), then for wobble from side to side (dynamic). IIRC, the 
>dynamic check is only done on the front axle.
>-- Randall


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To: "Steven Trovato" <strovato@optonline.net>,
 "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 13:20:37 -0600
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: john niolon via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the 
check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no 
resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for 
doing what we???re discussing.

j

-----Original Message----- 
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System

I shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I
think he is just saying that his backflow
preventer has a convenient port that he uses to
connect.  I don't think he is saying that the
backflow preventer presents any other problem for
the operation.  I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.

-Steve T.

At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, well 
>ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>
>John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking 
>one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose barb 
>that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made 
>sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the 
>basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow 
>it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  If 
>there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basement, 
>might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>
>Jim


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 12:32:29 2019
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 14:29:15 -0500
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 Thunderbird/68.2.0
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Donald H Locker via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============1315300353472408785==
 boundary="------------250E78D705061588527B92E5"
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Static vs. Dynamic - consider a yardstick (or metre-stick) with equal 
weights on either end. With one weight mounted an inch below the stick, the 
other three inches below, with both equidistant from the center of the 
stick. This is statically balanced similar to a balance - neither side will 
tend to rise or fall. BUT if you put an axle through it and rotate it about 
that axis, the weights will try to rotate about a point two inches below 
the yardstick and will alternately pull it up and down a bit with each 
revolution.

Putting both weights equidistant radially and axially (which is what 
dynamic balancing does) removes that wobbling force. Here is some ASCII art 
(best viewed in a fixed-width font.)

Static balance onlyÂ Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Static and Dynamic balance
---------------+--------------- ---------------+---------------
Wt Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  |
 Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â Â  Wt Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  | Â  Â  Wt
 Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Wt

Donald.

On 05-Nov-2019 13:40, Steven Trovato via Shop-talk wrote:
> That's interesting.Â  I always thought of static balancing as being done 
> with a bubble balancer sitting still on the floor.Â  And any balancing 
> with the wheel actually spinning I would call dynamic. They obviously use 
> the terms differently.Â  I imagine it wouldn't hurt any if you did both 
> for the rear as well, even if it isn't necessary.Â  The whole premise of 
> on-the-car balancing is that you don't want to move the tires around.Â  
> Even if you remove and replace a wheel, you want to mark it so you put 
> the same lug studs through the same wheel holes.Â  I would think in modern 
> off-the-car balancing they should just balance all of the wheels the best 
> they can regardless of position.Â  I suppose they could use a lower 
> standard for the rears, but that seems pretty lame to me.
>
> -Steve
>
> At 01:21 PM 11/5/2019, Randall via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I don't know that this is relevant, but the manual for my on-the-car 
>> balancer (an antique so old it actually uses vacuum tubes) talks about 
>> "static" and "dynamic" imbalance as two different tire/wheel conditions. 
>> Its sensor only works in one direction, so first you check for the tire 
>> hopping up and down (which it call static imbalance), then for wobble 
>> from side to side (dynamic). IIRC, the dynamic check is only done on the 
>> front axle.
>> -- Randall
>
>

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    <p>Static vs. Dynamic - consider a yardstick (or metre-stick) with
      equal weights on either end. With one weight mounted an inch below
      the stick, the other three inches below, with both equidistant
      from the center of the stick. This is statically balanced similar
      to a balance - neither side will tend to rise or fall. BUT if you
      put an axle through it and rotate it about that axis, the weights
      will try to rotate about a point two inches below the yardstick
      and will alternately pull it up and down a bit with each
      revolution.<br>
      <br>
      Putting both weights equidistant radially and axially (which is
      what dynamic balancing does) removes that wobbling force. Here is
      some ASCII art (best viewed in a fixed-width font.)<br>
      <br>
      Â Â Â Â Â  <tt>Static balance onlyÂ Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Static and Dynamic
        balance</tt><tt><br>
      </tt><tt>---------------+---------------
        ---------------+---------------</tt><tt><br>
      </tt><tt>Wt Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  |</tt><tt><br>
      </tt><tt>Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â Â  Wt Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â 
        Â  Â  Wt</tt><tt><br>
      </tt><tt>Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  | Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  Wt</tt><br>
      <br>
      Donald.</p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 05-Nov-2019 13:40, Steven Trovato
      via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:6A.75.13198.542C1CD5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net">That's
      interesting.Â  I always thought of static balancing as being done
      with a bubble balancer sitting still on the floor.Â  And any
      balancing with the wheel actually spinning I would call dynamic.Â 
      They obviously use the terms differently.Â  I imagine it wouldn't
      hurt any if you did both for the rear as well, even if it isn't
      necessary.Â  The whole premise of on-the-car balancing is that you
      don't want to move the tires around.Â  Even if you remove and
      replace a wheel, you want to mark it so you put the same lug studs
      through the same wheel holes.Â  I would think in modern off-the-car
      balancing they should just balance all of the wheels the best they
      can regardless of position.Â  I suppose they could use a lower
      standard for the rears, but that seems pretty lame to me.
      <br>
      <br>
      -Steve
      <br>
      <br>
      At 01:21 PM 11/5/2019, Randall via Shop-talk wrote:
      <br>
      <blockquote type="cite">I don't know that this is relevant, but
        the manual for my on-the-car balancer (an antique so old it
        actually uses vacuum tubes) talks about "static" and "dynamic"
        imbalance as two different tire/wheel conditions. Its sensor
        only works in one direction, so first you check for the tire
        hopping up and down (which it call static imbalance), then for
        wobble from side to side (dynamic). IIRC, the dynamic check is
        only done on the front axle.
        <br>
        -- Randall
        <br>
      </blockquote>
      <br>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:40:29 -0500
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys.

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:20 PM, john niolon via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for doing what we???re discussing.
> 
> j
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
> 
> I shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I
> think he is just saying that his backflow
> preventer has a convenient port that he uses to
> connect.  I don't think he is saying that the
> backflow preventer presents any other problem for
> the operation.  I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.
> 
> -Steve T.
> 
> At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>> Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>> 
>> John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose barb that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  If there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>> 
>> Jim
> 
> 
> -- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
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> 
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To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 16:44:06 -0600
Importance: Normal
References: <08D0079D8B6442B4B94026E88965019E.ref@Johnsdesktop>
Subject: [Shop-talk] keeping the smoke in----fuse selection for a circuit
From: john niolon via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============8838621861171050926==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_09B7_01D593F8.3D476800"

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	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I=E2=80=99m wiring for my power seats in my truck project. My wiring =
harness didn't include this circuit so I'm coming off a battery =
termination point. Thinking about fusing each seat. The internal wiring =
is 14 ga and doing a amp check I read from 3-6 amps with any of the 3 =
motors (tilt/raise/for-back) running and around 12 amps when you hit the =
stops and the motor stalls. I know 14 ga is good for 18-20 amps but I'm =
trying to decide how much to fuse it.. I wanna keep the smoke inside but =
don't want to fuse too high.... would you consider a percentage over =
stall amp draw or running amp draw..... and what safety factor ??  I =
should already know this at my age...



john


https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/
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	charset="UTF-8"
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: ; WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; =
TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FLOAT: none; COLOR: ; ORPHANS: 2; WIDOWS: 2; =
DISPLAY: inline !important; LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; =
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; =
text-decoration-color: initial"><FONT=20
face=3DVerdana><FONT color=3D#222222>I=E2=80=99m wiring for my power =
seats in my truck=20
project. My wiring harness didn't include this circuit so I'm coming off =
a=20
battery termination point. Thinking about fusing each seat. The internal =
wiring=20
is 14 ga and doing a amp check I read from 3-6 amps with any of the 3 =
motors=20
(tilt/raise/for-back) running and around 12 amps when you hit the stops =
and the=20
motor stalls. I know 14 ga is good for 18-20 amps but I'm trying to =
decide how=20
much to fuse it.. I wanna keep the smoke inside but don't want to fuse =
too=20
high.... would you consider a percentage over stall amp draw or running =
amp=20
draw..... and what safety factor ??&nbsp; I should already know this at =
my=20
age...</FONT></FONT></SPAN><BR=20
style=3D'BOX-SIZING: border-box; FONT-SIZE: 13px; FONT-FAMILY: verdana, =
geneva, lucida, "lucida grande", arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; =
FONT-WEIGHT: 400; COLOR: rgb(34,34,34); FONT-STYLE: normal; ORPHANS: 2; =
WIDOWS: 2; LETTER-SPACING: normal; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); =
TEXT-INDENT: 0px; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; =
text-decoration-color: initial'>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000"><BR><BR>john</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000"><BR>https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY><=
/HTML>

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <08D0079D8B6442B4B94026E88965019E.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <08D0079D8B6442B4B94026E88965019E@Johnsdesktop>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 18:16:16 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] keeping the smoke in----fuse selection for a circuit
From: Donald H Locker via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 20:04:11 2019
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To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 21:04:03 -0600
Importance: normal
References: <08D0079D8B6442B4B94026E88965019E.ref@Johnsdesktop>
 <08D0079D8B6442B4B94026E88965019E@Johnsdesktop>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] keeping the smoke in----fuse selection for a circuit
From: Randall via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8401793124502381739==
	boundary="_F2E6146D-313E-42FB-9F61-D840E6E64758_"

--_F2E6146D-313E-42FB-9F61-D840E6E64758_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I would seriously consider a 20 amp circuit breaker instead of a fuse.

Perhaps they aren=E2=80=99t all that way, but on my cars with power seats, =
you can run 2 or 3 of the motors at the same time.  Tilt, for example, runs=
 the front motor up and the rear motor down.

-- Randall

From: john niolon via Shop-talk
Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 4:44 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] keeping the smoke in----fuse selection for a circuit

I=E2=80=99m wiring for my power seats in my truck project. My wiring harnes=
s didn't include this circuit so I'm coming off a battery termination point=
. Thinking about fusing each seat. The internal wiring is 14 ga and doing a=
 amp check I read from 3-6 amps with any of the 3 motors (tilt/raise/for-ba=
ck) running and around 12 amps when you hit the stops and the motor stalls.=
 I know 14 ga is good for 18-20 amps but I'm trying to decide how much to f=
use it.. I wanna keep the smoke inside but don't want to fuse too high.... =
would you consider a percentage over stall amp draw or running amp draw....=
. and what safety factor ??=C2=A0 I should already know this at my age...


john
=C2=A0

https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/


--_F2E6146D-313E-42FB-9F61-D840E6E64758_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w=3D"urn:sc=
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fice/2004/12/omml" xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta ht=
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ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I would seriously consider a 20 amp =
circuit breaker instead of a fuse.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Perhaps they aren=E2=80=99t all that way, but on =
my cars with power seats, you can run 2 or 3 of the motors at the same time=
.=C2=A0 Tilt, for example, runs the front motor up and the rear motor down.=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>-- Randa=
ll<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div style=3D'ms=
o-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;paddin=
g:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'border:none;padding:0in'=
><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">john niolon via S=
hop-talk</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, November 5, 2019 4:44 PM<br><b>To: </=
b><a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk</a><br><b>Subject: =
</b>[Shop-talk] keeping the smoke in----fuse selection for a circuit</p></d=
iv><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span sty=
le=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#222222'>I=E2=
=80=99m wiring for my power seats in my truck project. My wiring harness di=
dn't include this circuit so I'm coming off a battery termination point. Th=
inking about fusing each seat. The internal wiring is 14 ga and doing a amp=
 check I read from 3-6 amps with any of the 3 motors (tilt/raise/for-back) =
running and around 12 amps when you hit the stops and the motor stalls. I k=
now 14 ga is good for 18-20 amps but I'm trying to decide how much to fuse =
it.. I wanna keep the smoke inside but don't want to fuse too high.... woul=
d you consider a percentage over stall amp draw or running amp draw..... an=
d what safety factor ??&nbsp; I should already know this at my age...</span=
><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><br><br>joh=
n<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-=
size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><br>https://jniolon.class=
icpickup.com/<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></=
p></div></body></html>=

--_F2E6146D-313E-42FB-9F61-D840E6E64758_--


--===============8401793124502381739==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============8401793124502381739==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  6 20:15:57 2019
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.10.1573066803.12609.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 19:15:50 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/60.9.0
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] keeping the smoke in----fuse selection for a
 circuit (Randall)
From: Mark Miller via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 08:24:22 -0500
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4749722895582341369==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_D1A9E656-850C-4073-8BA1-E390D3635A16"


--Apple-Mail=_D1A9E656-850C-4073-8BA1-E390D3635A16
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I thought I=E2=80=99d update =
this with some new information.  The adaptor was well made and the =
shut-off valve proved to be very handy; it was well worth the $20.  It =
also came with excellent instructions that mostly agreed with what was =
said here, with one exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid blowing compressed =
air through the PVB because doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D  I =
assume my system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=80=99t find it and just =
went ahead and blew it out from the basement as discussed.

The instructions also recommend that the compressor should be "as large =
as possible, preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D  I think that is =
good advice, as my little HF 8 gallon compressor was barely (I think) up =
to the task.  I initially set it to 50 lbs, the recommended pressure, =
but it was only putting out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up =
to get it a little higher.  Even so, the compressor would fully extend =
the spray heads for the first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble water =
out with the head retracted.  The compressor ran constantly while the =
system was on, so I gave it a rest between blowing out each zone.  I =
also blew out each zone at least three times, but there was sill some =
spray at the beginning each time.  I am going to do it one more time =
today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be completely dry.  I assume it won=E2=80=
=99t be an issue when the little bit of water remaining in the system =
freezes, but someone please let me know if I am wrong about this.  My 60 =
gal compressor is about 150 yards away from the water inlet, but I could =
make that work if necessary.

Just in time, as the cold weather arrived today, with the first below =
freezing temps expected tonight.

Cheers,
Jim

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =
=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I =
was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system =
at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the controller to =
run through each zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system =
is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging =
something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, =
but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would =
pay for itself on the first use: =
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B005=
5QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&=
hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hv=
targid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1 =
<https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D3=
09735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D=
&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&h=
vtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1>. I could save around $10 and just =
buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems =
like a good addition.
>=20
> I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than =
it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  =
(https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html =
<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html>).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.
>=20
> Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional =
to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been =
called a no-brainer before.
>=20
> Thanks,
> Jim


--Apple-Mail=_D1A9E656-850C-4073-8BA1-E390D3635A16
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">The =
Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I thought I=E2=80=99d update this =
with some new information. &nbsp;The adaptor was well made and&nbsp;the =
shut-off valve proved to be very handy; it was well worth the $20. =
&nbsp;It also came with excellent instructions that mostly agreed with =
what was said here, with one exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid blowing =
compressed air through the PVB because doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D=
 &nbsp;I assume my system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=80=99t find it and =
just went ahead and blew it out from the basement as discussed.<div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The instructions also =
recommend that the compressor should be "as large as possible, =
preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D &nbsp;I think that is good =
advice, as my little HF 8 gallon compressor was barely (I think) up to =
the task. &nbsp;I initially set it to 50 lbs, the recommended pressure, =
but it was only putting out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up =
to get it a little higher. &nbsp;Even so, the compressor would fully =
extend the spray heads for the first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble =
water out with the head retracted. &nbsp;The compressor ran constantly =
while the system was on, so I gave it a rest between blowing out each =
zone. &nbsp;I also blew out each zone at least three times, but there =
was sill some spray at the beginning each time. &nbsp;I am going to do =
it one more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be completely dry. =
&nbsp;I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue when the little bit of water =
remaining in the system freezes, but someone please let me know if I am =
wrong about this. &nbsp;My 60 gal compressor is about 150 yards away =
from the water inlet, but I could make that work if necessary.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Just in time, as the =
cold weather arrived today, with the first below freezing temps expected =
tonight.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Cheers,</div><div class=3D"">Jim<br class=3D""><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Nov =
5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim Stone &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:1789alpine@gmail.com" =
class=3D"">1789alpine@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: =
space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I need to drain and =
winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to =
pay someone to do that job. &nbsp;While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=
=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few =
years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system at the drain =
valve and then use the manual function on the controller to run through =
each zone until no more water comes out. &nbsp;(FWIW, my system is not =
that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging something up =
that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, but found =
this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would pay for =
itself on the first use:&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets=
/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0=
&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&a=
mp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-5=
70302725618&amp;psc=3D1" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Fauc=
ets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3D=
df0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D=
11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3D=
c&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpl=
a-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I could save around $10 and just buy a =
hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a =
good addition.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I =
have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it =
is worth to get air to the master drain valve. &nbsp;Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. =
&nbsp;(<a =
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-comp=
ressor-68740.html" =
class=3D"">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html</a>). &nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 =
lbs, so I figured something around this should be sufficient.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Am I missing anything? =
&nbsp;Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do this job? =
&nbsp;It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a =
no-brainer before.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Thanks,</div><div =
class=3D"">Jim</div></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_D1A9E656-850C-4073-8BA1-E390D3635A16--

--===============4749722895582341369==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4749722895582341369==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 07:47:56 2019
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References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
 <B3A45A53-B675-4B82-9693-111F5025345D@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 09:47:36 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Scott Hall via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6452121912598530414==

--0000000000008ccd4c0596d6ddbd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jim,

I'm going to assume this is a similar thing to winterizing a swimming
pool.

For pools, there are frequent warnings abounot using a compressor to blow
the lines, or to make sure to keep the PSI below 20.

It is frequently mentioned that a shop vac or dedicated blower tool is
preferred.  The thought is that to remove the air high pressure is not the
goal (and that high pressure and damage the PVC pipe and related fittings)
but rather high volume.  And that a shop vac is the better way to achieve
that.

At least that's what the internet said.

I used my compressor, set to 15 psi.  I guess we'll know in the spring how
I did--it just hit 18 degrees here this morning.

It sounds like your sprinkler system operates similarly.

On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 8:24 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I thought I=E2=80=99d update thi=
s with
> some new information.  The adaptor was well made and the shut-off valve
> proved to be very handy; it was well worth the $20.  It also came with
> excellent instructions that mostly agreed with what was said here, with o=
ne
> exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid blowing compressed air through the PVB =
because
> doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D  I assume my system has a BVP in it=
, but
> can=E2=80=99t find it and just went ahead and blew it out from the baseme=
nt as
> discussed.
>
> The instructions also recommend that the compressor should be "as large a=
s
> possible, preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D  I think that is good=
 advice,
> as my little HF 8 gallon compressor was barely (I think) up to the task. =
 I
> initially set it to 50 lbs, the recommended pressure, but it was only
> putting out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up to get it a litt=
le
> higher.  Even so, the compressor would fully extend the spray heads for t=
he
> first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble water out with the head
> retracted.  The compressor ran constantly while the system was on, so I
> gave it a rest between blowing out each zone.  I also blew out each zone =
at
> least three times, but there was sill some spray at the beginning each
> time.  I am going to do it one more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t=
 be
> completely dry.  I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue when the little bi=
t of water
> remaining in the system freezes, but someone please let me know if I am
> wrong about this.  My 60 gal compressor is about 150 yards away from the
> water inlet, but I could make that work if necessary.
>
> Just in time, as the cold weather arrived today, with the first below
> freezing temps expected tonight.
>
> Cheers,
> Jim
>
> On Nov 5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t i=
magine I
> need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =E2=80=98prop=
er=E2=80=99 way to
> do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it =
is
> easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the
> manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more
> water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I
> was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my
> compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a go=
od
> investment that would pay for itself on the first use:
> https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&h=
vptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvta=
rgid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1.
> I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting,
> but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.
>
> I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it
> is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was planning o=
n
> just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  (
> https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html).
>   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around
> this should be sufficient.
>
> Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional to
> do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been cal=
led a
> no-brainer before.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail=
.com
>
>

--0000000000008ccd4c0596d6ddbd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Jim,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m=
 going to assume this is a similar thing to winterizing a swimming pool.=C2=
=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">For pools, the=
re are frequent warnings abounot using a compressor to blow the lines, or t=
o make sure to keep the PSI below 20.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"auto">It is frequently mentioned that a shop vac or ded=
icated blower tool is preferred.=C2=A0 The thought is that to remove the ai=
r high pressure is not the goal (and that high pressure and damage the PVC =
pipe and related fittings) but rather high volume.=C2=A0 And that a shop va=
c is the better way to achieve that.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">At least that&#39;s what the internet said.=C2=A0</div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I used my compressor, set to 1=
5 psi.=C2=A0 I guess we&#39;ll know in the spring how I did--it just hit 18=
 degrees here this morning.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">It sounds like your sprinkler system operates similarly.=C2=
=A0=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 8:24 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8e=
x;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:brea=
k-word;line-break:after-white-space">The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, =
so I thought I=E2=80=99d update this with some new information.=C2=A0 The a=
daptor was well made and=C2=A0the shut-off valve proved to be very handy; i=
t was well worth the $20.=C2=A0 It also came with excellent instructions th=
at mostly agreed with what was said here, with one exception: it said =E2=
=80=9Cavoid blowing compressed air through the PVB because doing so may dam=
age the BVP.=E2=80=9D =C2=A0I assume my system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=
=80=99t find it and just went ahead and blew it out from the basement as di=
scussed.<div><br></div><div>The instructions also recommend that the compre=
ssor should be &quot;as large as possible, preferably 15 gallons or larger.=
=E2=80=9D =C2=A0I think that is good advice, as my little HF 8 gallon compr=
essor was barely (I think) up to the task.=C2=A0 I initially set it to 50 l=
bs, the recommended pressure, but it was only putting out about 40 lbs duri=
ng use, so I turned that up to get it a little higher.=C2=A0 Even so, the c=
ompressor would fully extend the spray heads for the first 15 seconds or so=
, then just bubble water out with the head retracted.=C2=A0 The compressor =
ran constantly while the system was on, so I gave it a rest between blowing=
 out each zone.=C2=A0 I also blew out each zone at least three times, but t=
here was sill some spray at the beginning each time.=C2=A0 I am going to do=
 it one more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be completely dry.=C2=A0=
 I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue when the little bit of water remaini=
ng in the system freezes, but someone please let me know if I am wrong abou=
t this.=C2=A0 My 60 gal compressor is about 150 yards away from the water i=
nlet, but I could make that work if necessary.</div><div><br></div><div>Jus=
t in time, as the cold weather arrived today, with the first below freezing=
 temps expected tonight.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Jim<br>=
<div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Nov 5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim St=
one &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:1789alpine@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"no=
referrer">1789alpine@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><div><div style=3D"w=
ord-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">I need to drain and winte=
rize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someon=
e to do that job.=C2=A0 While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way=
 to do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that i=
t is easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use t=
he manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more=
 water comes out. =C2=A0(FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.=
). I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach =
my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a g=
ood investment that would pay for itself on the first use:=C2=A0<a href=3D"=
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055=
QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadi=
d=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144=
962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=
=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&=
amp;psc=3D1" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Wi=
nterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055Q=
AAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpo=
s=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;=
hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hv=
locphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I could s=
ave around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shu=
t off valve seems like a good addition.<div><br></div><div>I have fairly la=
rge compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it is worth to get a=
ir to the master drain valve.=C2=A0 Instead, I was planning on just using m=
y Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. =C2=A0(<a href=3D"https://www.h=
arborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html" tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-=
125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html</a>). =C2=A0 My water pressure i=
s regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be suffici=
ent.</div><div><br></div><div>Am I missing anything?=C2=A0 Is there any goo=
d reason to pay a professional to do this job?=C2=A0 It seems like a no-bra=
iner to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-brainer before.</div><div><br=
></div><div>Thanks,</div><div>Jim</div></div></div></blockquote></div><br><=
/div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal=
@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000008ccd4c0596d6ddbd--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============6452121912598530414==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 07:51:59 2019
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2019 09:51:16 -0500
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>,Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
 <B3A45A53-B675-4B82-9693-111F5025345D@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It sounds like you have it under control.  I =

assume you are talking about a backflow =

prevention valve?  BPV =3D PVB  =3D BVP?  Apparently, =

there are different types of these and there are =

different places they can be installed, depending =

on local codes and whether the original installer =

did it right.  I never worried about it and never =

had a problem.  The way my system is, I can't =

really think of another way.  Your experience =

with the large vs small compressor is the same as =

mine.  It is not the pressure, it is the volume =

of air that you need.  I found that the larger =

compressor was better, but the small one was good =

enough.  And yes, I never got mine 100% dry.  It =

was just drained enough that no water would =

freeze and expand enough to break anything.  I =

think you did fine.  I don't think a professional =

service company would do more than that.

-Steve

At 08:24 AM 11/8/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I =

>thought I=E2=80=99d update this with some new =

>information.  The adaptor was well made and the =

>shut-off valve proved to be very handy; it was =

>well worth the $20.  It also came with excellent =

>instructions that mostly agreed with what was =

>said here, with one exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid =

>blowing compressed air through the PVB because =

>doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D  I assume my =

>system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=80=99t find it and =

>just went ahead and blew it out from the basement as discussed.
>
>The instructions also recommend that the =

>compressor should be "as large as possible, =

>preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D  I think =

>that is good advice, as my little HF 8 gallon =

>compressor was barely (I think) up to the =

>task.  I initially set it to 50 lbs, the =

>recommended pressure, but it was only putting =

>out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up =

>to get it a little higher.  Even so, the =

>compressor would fully extend the spray heads =

>for the first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble =

>water out with the head retracted.  The =

>compressor ran constantly while the system was =

>on, so I gave it a rest between blowing out each =

>zone.  I also blew out each zone at least three =

>times, but there was sill some spray at the =

>beginning each time.  I am going to do it one =

>more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be =

>completely dry.  I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue =

>when the little bit of water remaining in the =

>system freezes, but someone please let me know =

>if I am wrong about this.  My 60 gal compressor =

>is about 150 yards away from the water inlet, =

>but I could make that work if necessary.
>
>Just in time, as the cold weather arrived today, =

>with the first below freezing temps expected tonight.
>
>Cheers,
>Jim

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

utox.team.net


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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2019 10:02:05 -0500
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 mail.com>
References: <C5216E7E-02DD-4742-A53F-11DF0A950BAD@gmail.com>
 <B3A45A53-B675-4B82-9693-111F5025345D@gmail.com>
 <CAK73_u7rQza7f1-yO8OTxMiNH2c91mDZ2jD6NsdC5-pp666SUw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I am not sure if that is a good assumption.  A =

swimming pool is a closed system designed to =

operate at whatever pressure the pump =

produces.  A sprinkler system is designed to =

operate at the pressure of the water supply.  A =

sprinkler system may have hundreds of feet of =

tubing.  I used a shop vac to drain lines on a =

hot tub.  I can't imagine doing my whole sprinkler system that way.

I am certainly no authority on this.  I can just =

tell you what I did.  If I was going to do some =

more research, though, I would try to find =

something on how to winterize a sprinkler system, =

rather than a swimming pool.

-Steve


At 09:47 AM 11/8/2019, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I'm going to assume this is a similar thing to =

>winterizing a swimming pool.=C2 =C2
>
>For pools, there are frequent warnings abounot =

>using a compressor to blow the lines, or to make =

>sure to keep the PSI below 20.=C2 =C2
>
>It is frequently mentioned that a shop vac or =

>dedicated blower tool is preferred.=C2  The =

>thought is that to remove the air high pressure =

>is not the goal (and that high pressure and =

>damage the PVC pipe and related fittings) but =

>rather high volume.=C2  And that a shop vac is the better way to achieve t=
hat.=C2
>
>At least that's what the internet said.=C2
>
>I used my compressor, set to 15 psi.=C2  I guess =

>we'll know in the spring how I did--it just hit =

>18 degrees here this morning.=C2 =C2
>
>It sounds like your sprinkler system operates similarly.=C2 =C2

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

utox.team.net


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  9 14:58:46 2019
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 16:58:27 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Hatchet
From: Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2135683847905637488==

--00000000000019ad6c0596f1000c

Well, I've destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch hatchet.  I probably
shouldn't have abused it...

Anyone bought a quality hatchet lately that they'd recommend?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

--00000000000019ad6c0596f1000c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Well, I&#39;ve destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch hatchet.=
=C2=A0 I probably shouldn&#39;t have abused it...<div><br></div><div>Anyone=
 bought a quality hatchet lately that they&#39;d recommend?</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Jeff Scarbrough</div><div>Corrosion Acres, Ga.</div></div>

--00000000000019ad6c0596f1000c--

--===============2135683847905637488==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============2135683847905637488==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  9 16:06:21 2019
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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAO8Q7COsJM8mzmguJadDAZZurNPNTPb370LiA2C3YynLzcpgmA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 15:05:48 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/60.9.1
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hatchet
From: Brian Kemp via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============7145750109808809754==
 boundary="------------8B7DAB4776A3AC39672427CB"
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--------------8B7DAB4776A3AC39672427CB
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A traditional hatchet is surprisingly hard to find at local retailers.

The first two here are options you can likely pickup.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=hatchet

I have the fiberglass handle version and it works fine.Â  Seems to hold 
an edge ok.

Brian

On 11/9/2019 1:58 PM, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk wrote:
> Well, I've destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch hatchet.Â  I probably 
> shouldn't have abused it...
>
> Anyone bought a quality hatchet lately that they'd recommend?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>


--------------8B7DAB4776A3AC39672427CB
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    A traditional hatchet is surprisingly hard to find at local
    retailers.<br>
    <br>
    The first two here are options you can likely pickup.<br>
    <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=hatchet">https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=hatchet</a><br>
    <br>
    I have the fiberglass handle version and it works fine.Â  Seems to
    hold an edge ok.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/9/2019 1:58 PM, Jeff Scarbrough
      via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAO8Q7COsJM8mzmguJadDAZZurNPNTPb370LiA2C3YynLzcpgmA@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Well, I've destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch
        hatchet.Â  I probably shouldn't have abused it...
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Anyone bought a quality hatchet lately that they'd
          recommend?</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Jeff Scarbrough</div>
        <div>Corrosion Acres, Ga.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------8B7DAB4776A3AC39672427CB--

--===============7145750109808809754==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7145750109808809754==--

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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hatchet
From: David Scheidt via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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> On Nov 9, 2019, at 15:58, Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Well, I've destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch hatchet.  I probably shouldn't have abused it...
> 
> Anyone bought a quality hatchet lately that they'd recommend?

I have been using a Vaughn rigging axe as a camp hatchet.  I did some thinning of the edge with a file and then put arazor edge on it. Holds an edge well, does all the things I want a small axe to do.  If you use the poll to hit with, it might not work for you. But I rather have the hammer head 
> 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hatchet
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References: <003901d58abc$09225f70$1b671e50$@GMail.com>
 <A78DF784-F313-4CA1-9F7D-D681F44DEB8C@icloud.com>
 <3A.EA.13198.FD6A0CD5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <CAMHq6Zz0D7Ke9aNTz7tRT9sYnseVPiKNrWbZz_o57Cwx7jZhkg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:56:53 -0500
To: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6874360858211248405==

--00000000000003875805968d3caf

Got me at a loss, unless it is done on the car and they are also balancing
the rotating assembly, do front/rear could matter.  It would be telling to
report what he actually does.

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 5:53 PM Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Well, I vote he has no clue what he's talking about.  What I learned was
> that static and spin balancing were not the same thing.  Static was done
> with a bubble balance without spinning.  Spinning meant spinning.  There
> was spinning on the car and spinning off the car, but I don't think anyone
> does it on the car anymore.
>
> I don't know why they would balance front and back differently, seems like
> balanced is balanced regardless of front or rear.
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <
> shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
>> Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
>> I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
>> though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear
>> yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked
>> me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them
>> differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
>> that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking
>> about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
>> because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I
>> shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
>> re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed
>> drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff
>> is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
>> financial motive for them to want to do this.
>>
>> -Steve
>>
>>
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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>
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>
>

--00000000000003875805968d3caf
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div><div dir=3D"auto">Got me at a loss, unless it is done on the car and t=
hey are also balancing the rotating assembly, do front/rear could matter.=
=C2=A0 It would be telling to report what he actually does.</div></div><div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mo=
n, Nov 4, 2019 at 5:53 PM Benjamin Zwissler via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bo=
rder-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-co=
lor:rgb(204,204,204)"><div dir=3D"auto">Well, I vote he has no clue what he=
&#39;s talking about.=C2=A0 What I learned was that static and spin balanci=
ng were not the same thing.=C2=A0 Static was done with a bubble balance wit=
hout spinning.=C2=A0 Spinning meant spinning.=C2=A0 There was spinning on t=
he car and spinning off the car, but I don&#39;t think anyone does it on th=
e car anymore.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I don&#39;t kno=
w why they would balance front and back differently, seems like balanced is=
 balanced regardless of front or rear.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote"></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr=
">On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:32 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">shop-=
talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;borde=
r-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color=
:rgb(204,204,204)"></blockquote></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquot=
e class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width=
:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204=
,204)">Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford <br>
Expedition at BJs.=C2=A0 It was not a great experience, and I don&#39;t thi=
nk <br>
I&#39;d do it again.=C2=A0 The tires do come with a road hazard warranty, <=
br>
though, and free flat repair.=C2=A0 I got a puncture in the right rear <br>
yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.=C2=A0 The guy there asked =
<br>
me if it was a front or rear tire.=C2=A0 He said they balance them <br>
differently.=C2=A0 He said it was &quot;statically balanced&quot; but on a =
machine <br>
that spins it and uses lasers.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t know what he is talking <b=
r>
about.=C2=A0 I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn&#39;t matter, <=
br>
because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.=C2=A0 He told me I <br>
shouldn&#39;t do that.=C2=A0 I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate =
and <br>
re-balance.=C2=A0 None of this makes any sense to me.=C2=A0 Have things cha=
nged <br>
drastically or is this guy nuts?=C2=A0 I should note that all this stuff <b=
r>
is free when you buy the tires there, so I don&#39;t really see any <br>
financial motive for them to want to do this.<br>
<br>
-Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
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oreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><b=
r>
<br></blockquote></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"gmai=
l_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-lef=
t-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204)">
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmai=
l.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div>

--00000000000003875805968d3caf--

--===============6874360858211248405==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============6874360858211248405==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 10:13:41 2019
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 <5D224FD74C71461296FDE6CE228E9A5D@Johnsdesktop>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 14:34:17 -0500
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1631480811695499565==

--0000000000004141c505969e85c6

If you have any slope in your yard, blow out from top to bottom zone.  I
also remove my backflow over winter.

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the
> check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no
> resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for
> doing what we???re discussing.
>
> j
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
>
> I shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I
> think he is just saying that his backflow
> preventer has a convenient port that he uses to
> connect.  I don't think he is saying that the
> backflow preventer presents any other problem for
> the operation.  I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.
>
> -Steve T.
>
> At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
> >Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday,
> well
> >ahead of any freezing temperatures.
> >
> >John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me
> rethinking
> >one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose barb
> >that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made
> >sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the
> >basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system and
> blow
> >it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  If
> >there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the
> basement,
> >might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
> >
> >Jim
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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>

--0000000000004141c505969e85c6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div><br></div><div><div dir=3D"auto">If you have any slope in your yard, b=
low out from top to bottom zone.=C2=A0 I also remove my backflow over winte=
r.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr=
">On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>=
</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;b=
order-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-c=
olor:rgb(204,204,204)">You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve =
is down stream of the <br>
check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no <br>
resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for <=
br>
doing what we???re discussing.<br>
<br>
j<br>
<br>
-----Original Message----- <br>
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk<br>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM<br>
To: Shop Talk<br>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System<br>
<br>
I shouldn&#39;t really be speaking for John, but I<br>
think he is just saying that his backflow<br>
preventer has a convenient port that he uses to<br>
connect.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t think he is saying that the<br>
backflow preventer presents any other problem for<br>
the operation.=C2=A0 I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.<br>
<br>
-Steve T.<br>
<br>
At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
&gt;Thanks, guys.=C2=A0 I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thurs=
day, well <br>
&gt;ahead of any freezing temperatures.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me ret=
hinking <br>
&gt;one aspect of my plan.=C2=A0 The system installer put in an outside hos=
e barb <br>
&gt;that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made =
<br>
&gt;sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in th=
e <br>
&gt;basement.=C2=A0 I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system=
 and blow <br>
&gt;it out from there.=C2=A0 Unless there is a good reason not to do it tha=
t.=C2=A0 If <br>
&gt;there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basem=
ent, <br>
&gt;might there be a problem blowing it out from there?<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;Jim<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
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<br>
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<br>
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<br>
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<br>
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4232375839971193519==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_7FC483DC-0AD2-442B-A44B-E05857F9A550"


--Apple-Mail=_7FC483DC-0AD2-442B-A44B-E05857F9A550
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Good point!  There is about 30=E2=80=99 of back to front slope in my =
lot. Fortunately, and really just by accident, the zones pretty much run =
back to front and I blew them out in order the first few times, then in =
reverse order to be safe. I think I=E2=80=99ll be ok this year, but =
definitely something to keep in mind for the future!

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk =
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> If you have any slope in your yard, blow out from top to bottom zone.  =
I also remove my backflow over winter.
>=20
> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk =
> You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of =
the=20
> check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no=20
> resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient =
for=20
> doing what we???re discussing.
>=20
> j
>=20
> -----Original Message-----=20
> From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System
>=20
> I shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I
> think he is just saying that his backflow
> preventer has a convenient port that he uses to
> connect.  I don't think he is saying that the
> backflow preventer presents any other problem for
> the operation.  I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.
>=20
> -Steve T.
>=20
> At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
> >Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on =
Thursday, well=20
> >ahead of any freezing temperatures.
> >
> >John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me =
rethinking=20
> >one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose =
barb=20
> >that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it =
made=20
> >sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in =
the=20
> >basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system =
and blow=20
> >it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  =
If=20
> >there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the =
basement,=20
> >might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
> >
> >Jim
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>=20
> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
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>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org=
>
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>=20
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--Apple-Mail=_7FC483DC-0AD2-442B-A44B-E05857F9A550
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Good =
point! &nbsp;There is about 30=E2=80=99 of back to front slope in my =
lot. Fortunately, and really just by accident, the zones pretty much run =
back to front and I blew them out in order the first few times, then in =
reverse order to be safe. I think I=E2=80=99ll be ok this year, but =
definitely something to keep in mind for the future!<br =
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">If you =
have any slope in your yard, blow out from top to bottom zone.&nbsp; I =
also remove my backflow over winter.</div><br class=3D""><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov =
5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; =
padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204);">You are =
correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">check valve =
on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">resistance =
or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">doing what =
we???re discussing.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">j<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">-----Original Message-----<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">From: Steven =
Trovato via Shop-talk<br class=3D"">Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 =
12:14 PM<br class=3D"">To: Shop Talk<br class=3D"">Subject: Re: =
[Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I =
shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I<br class=3D"">think he is =
just saying that his backflow<br class=3D"">preventer has a convenient =
port that he uses to<br class=3D"">connect.&nbsp; I don't think he is =
saying that the<br class=3D"">backflow preventer presents any other =
problem for<br class=3D"">the operation.&nbsp; I am sure John will let =
us know if I am correct.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">-Steve T.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk =
wrote:<br class=3D"">&gt;Thanks, guys.&nbsp; I just bought the adapter; =
it will be here on Thursday, well<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">&gt;ahead of =
any freezing temperatures.<br class=3D"">&gt;<br =
class=3D"">&gt;John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve =
does have me rethinking<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">&gt;one =
aspect of my plan.&nbsp; The system installer put in an outside hose =
barb<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had =
thought it made<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;sense to move ahead of that and start where the system =
originates in the<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;basement.&nbsp; I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest =
of the system and blow<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">&gt;it out =
from there.&nbsp; Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.&nbsp; =
If<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb =
and the basement,<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;might there be a problem blowing it out from there?<br =
class=3D"">&gt;<br class=3D"">&gt;Jim<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">--<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
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To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, Steven Trovato
 <strovato@optonline.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
Thread-Index: AQHVk1+yrstYdCJSQk2AbUSCzbccI6eEys5t
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 18:58:58 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tire balancing
From: "Tim . via Shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Were it me, find the contact form on the company's web site, explain what y=
ou were told and ask for clarification about their methods, explanations, e=
tc.

just my .002
tim
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Trov=
ato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 4:31 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] tire balancing

Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires for my Ford
Expedition at BJs.  It was not a great experience, and I don't think
I'd do it again.  The tires do come with a road hazard warranty,
though, and free flat repair.  I got a puncture in the right rear
yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.  The guy there asked
me if it was a front or rear tire.  He said they balance them
differently.  He said it was "statically balanced" but on a machine
that spins it and uses lasers.  I don't know what he is talking
about.  I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter,
because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.  He told me I
shouldn't do that.  I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and
re-balance.  None of this makes any sense to me.  Have things changed
drastically or is this guy nuts?  I should note that all this stuff
is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any
financial motive for them to want to do this.

-Steve


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ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend" style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-ser=
if; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
Were it me, find the contact form on the company's web site, explain what y=
ou were told and ask for clarification about their methods, explanations, e=
tc.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
just my .002</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Steven Trovato via Shop-talk &lt=
;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, November 4, 2019 4:31 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] tire balancing</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
>
<div class=3D"PlainText">Two years ago, I purchased a set of Michelin tires=
 for my Ford
<br>
Expedition at BJs.&nbsp; It was not a great experience, and I don't think <=
br>
I'd do it again.&nbsp; The tires do come with a road hazard warranty, <br>
though, and free flat repair.&nbsp; I got a puncture in the right rear <br>
yesterday, so I ventured down to BJs once again.&nbsp; The guy there asked =
<br>
me if it was a front or rear tire.&nbsp; He said they balance them <br>
differently.&nbsp; He said it was &quot;statically balanced&quot; but on a =
machine <br>
that spins it and uses lasers.&nbsp; I don't know what he is talking <br>
about.&nbsp; I told him it is a rear tire, but that shouldn't matter, <br>
because it will be a front tire when I rotate them.&nbsp; He told me I <br>
shouldn't do that.&nbsp; I have to bring the vehicle to them to rotate and =
<br>
re-balance.&nbsp; None of this makes any sense to me.&nbsp; Have things cha=
nged <br>
drastically or is this guy nuts?&nbsp; I should note that all this stuff <b=
r>
is free when you buy the tires there, so I don't really see any <br>
financial motive for them to want to do this.<br>
<br>
-Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
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om</a><br>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 13:00:42 2019
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 15:00:31 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I'm addinng external carriage lights and have a 50' roll of 14/2 Romex =
I'd like to use up, not to mention 50' of 14/2 stranded is almost $1/ft.=20=


I'd like to have the lights on a timer. I have outlets in the garage, =
and I happen to have a mechanical timer that you'd use for a livingroom =
lamp, etc.=20

Can I use a regular add-on plug that you'd normally use with stranded =
wire and just attach the Romex to it? Are there plugs made for solid =
wire?=20

I could always use the Romex to extend the circuit to near the carriage =
lights and install an outlet for the timer and buy short lamp cord, but =
that means a trip to the store. That might turn out to be the most =
time/cost/safety efficient method, but if I don't have to get into the =
car AGAIN...

thanks,
jim=

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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Pat Horne via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 15:44:53 -0500
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <513EE911-A1D6-4030-BCA1-21E6A5E703F8@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

If these are regular wall mounted lights, they should be wired 
directly into a box.  You should add a line from power source to a 
switch and then to the lights.  All of this should be done within the 
walls, ceiling, etc of the building, or in conduit if mounted on the 
surface.  The switch you use can incorporate a timer if 
desired.  There should be no plugs involved, and no lamp cord.  Of 
course you can rig up anything you want and make the lights come on, 
but it won't be proper or safe like that.  Is this intended to be a 
permanent installation?  If it is, do it right.

-Steve

At 03:00 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
>I'm addinng external carriage lights and have a 50' roll of 14/2 
>Romex I'd like to use up, not to mention 50' of 14/2 stranded is almost $1/ft.
>
>I'd like to have the lights on a timer. I have outlets in the 
>garage, and I happen to have a mechanical timer that you'd use for a 
>livingroom lamp, etc.
>
>Can I use a regular add-on plug that you'd normally use with 
>stranded wire and just attach the Romex to it? Are there plugs made 
>for solid wire?
>
>I could always use the Romex to extend the circuit to near the 
>carriage lights and install an outlet for the timer and buy short 
>lamp cord, but that means a trip to the store. That might turn out 
>to be the most time/cost/safety efficient method, but if I don't 
>have to get into the car AGAIN...
>
>thanks,
>jim

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 13:59:11 2019
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 15:59:02 -0500
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <513EE911-A1D6-4030-BCA1-21E6A5E703F8@groupwbench.org>
 <2D.0C.09517.5E678CD5@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I should have prefaced that I know what "right" is, and it's just not =
gonna happen for various reasons. There will be proper boxes where the =
fixture wiring connects to the Romex, at least. It's the other end =
that's the issue.

A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches with =
built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? There's an =
ugly floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, and if I can =
repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with the new light =
wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, that would be =
quite close to "right".

Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for the =
Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)

jim

> On Nov 10, 2019, at 3:44 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> =
wrote:
>=20
> Jim,
>=20
> If these are regular wall mounted lights, they should be wired =
directly into a box.  You should add a line from power source to a =
switch and then to the lights.  All of this should be done within the =
walls, ceiling, etc of the building, or in conduit if mounted on the =
surface.  The switch you use can incorporate a timer if desired.  There =
should be no plugs involved, and no lamp cord.  Of course you can rig up =
anything you want and make the lights come on, but it won't be proper or =
safe like that.  Is this intended to be a permanent installation?  If it =
is, do it right.
>=20
> -Steve
>=20
> At 03:00 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I'm addinng external carriage lights and have a 50' roll of 14/2 =
Romex I'd like to use up, not to mention 50' of 14/2 stranded is almost =
$1/ft.
>>=20
>> I'd like to have the lights on a timer. I have outlets in the garage, =
and I happen to have a mechanical timer that you'd use for a livingroom =
lamp, etc.
>>=20
>> Can I use a regular add-on plug that you'd normally use with stranded =
wire and just attach the Romex to it? Are there plugs made for solid =
wire?
>>=20
>> I could always use the Romex to extend the circuit to near the =
carriage lights and install an outlet for the timer and buy short lamp =
cord, but that means a trip to the store. That might turn out to be the =
most time/cost/safety efficient method, but if I don't have to get into =
the car AGAIN...
>>=20
>> thanks,
>> jim
>=20


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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============2769494829321361941==--

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 16:11:28 -0500
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
References: <513EE911-A1D6-4030-BCA1-21E6A5E703F8@groupwbench.org>
 <2D.0C.09517.5E678CD5@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <A4A3F3E3-00E7-4C84-8F87-1D0CAC5C2690@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7895097555861136856==
	boundary="=====================_339004992==.ALT"

--=====================_339004992==.ALT

OK, just don't want you to fry anyone or burn the place down.  What 
sort of timer are you looking for?  It seems to me that there are 
dozens of them.

<https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wiring-Devices-Light-Controls-Timers/In-Wall/N-5yc1vZc334Z1z17mau>https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wiring-Devices-Light-Controls-Timers/In-Wall/N-5yc1vZc334Z1z17mau 


-Steve

At 03:59 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin wrote:
>I should have prefaced that I know what "right" is, and it's just 
>not gonna happen for various reasons. There will be proper boxes 
>where the fixture wiring connects to the Romex, at least. It's the 
>other end that's the issue.
>
>A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches 
>with built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? 
>There's an ugly floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, 
>and if I can repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with 
>the new light wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, 
>that would be quite close to "right".
>
>Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for 
>the Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)
>
>jim

--=====================_339004992==.ALT

<html>
<body>
OK, just don't want you to fry anyone or burn the place down.&nbsp; What
sort of timer are you looking for?&nbsp; It seems to me that there are
dozens of them.&nbsp; <br><br>
<a href="https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wiring-Devices-Light-Controls-Timers/In-Wall/N-5yc1vZc334Z1z17mau">
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wiring-Devices-Light-Controls-Timers/In-Wall/N-5yc1vZc334Z1z17mau</a>
 <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 03:59 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I should have prefaced that I
know what &quot;right&quot; is, and it's just not gonna happen for
various reasons. There will be proper boxes where the fixture wiring
connects to the Romex, at least. It's the other end that's the
issue.<br><br>
A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches with
built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? There's an ugly
floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, and if I can
repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with the new light
wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, that would be quite
close to &quot;right&quot;.<br><br>
Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for the
Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)<br><br>
jim</blockquote></body>
</html>

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 16:20:54 -0500
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <513EE911-A1D6-4030-BCA1-21E6A5E703F8@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I must have used a poor phrase because those are exactly what I was =
hoping you meant. Thanks!

jim

> On Nov 10, 2019, at 4:11 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> =
wrote:
>=20
> OK, just don't want you to fry anyone or burn the place down.  What =
sort of timer are you looking for?  It seems to me that there are dozens =
of them. =20
>=20
> =
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wiring-Devices-Light-Controls-Timer=
s/In-Wall/N-5yc1vZc334Z1z17mau=20
>=20
> -Steve
>=20
> At 03:59 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> I should have prefaced that I know what "right" is, and it's just not =
gonna happen for various reasons. There will be proper boxes where the =
fixture wiring connects to the Romex, at least. It's the other end =
that's the issue.
>>=20
>> A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches with =
built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? There's an =
ugly floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, and if I can =
repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with the new light =
wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, that would be =
quite close to "right".
>>=20
>> Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for =
the Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)
>>=20
>> jim


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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Brian Kemp via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Jim - Here are two sample single gang timers.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-15-Amp-In-Wall-3-Way-Daylight-Adjusting-Digital-Timer-Switch-with-Screw-Terminals-White-32648/300524126

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-7-Day-Programmable-Timer-Switch-for-Lights-and-Motors-RPLS730B1000-U/206311889

Also, you might want to check about Romex in conduit.  I don't think you 
can do that according to code, except for short sections open at both 
ends.  I think the issue is possible heat buildup and the thermal rating 
of the wire insulation.

Brian

On 11/10/2019 12:59 PM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
> I should have prefaced that I know what "right" is, and it's just not gonna happen for various reasons. There will be proper boxes where the fixture wiring connects to the Romex, at least. It's the other end that's the issue.
>
> A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches with built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? There's an ugly floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, and if I can repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with the new light wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, that would be quite close to "right".
>
> Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for the Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)
>
> jim
>
>> On Nov 10, 2019, at 3:44 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> If these are regular wall mounted lights, they should be wired directly into a box.  You should add a line from power source to a switch and then to the lights.  All of this should be done within the walls, ceiling, etc of the building, or in conduit if mounted on the surface.  The switch you use can incorporate a timer if desired.  There should be no plugs involved, and no lamp cord.  Of course you can rig up anything you want and make the lights come on, but it won't be proper or safe like that.  Is this intended to be a permanent installation?  If it is, do it right.
>>
>> -Steve
>>
>> At 03:00 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
>>> I'm addinng external carriage lights and have a 50' roll of 14/2 Romex I'd like to use up, not to mention 50' of 14/2 stranded is almost $1/ft.
>>>
>>> I'd like to have the lights on a timer. I have outlets in the garage, and I happen to have a mechanical timer that you'd use for a livingroom lamp, etc.
>>>
>>> Can I use a regular add-on plug that you'd normally use with stranded wire and just attach the Romex to it? Are there plugs made for solid wire?
>>>
>>> I could always use the Romex to extend the circuit to near the carriage lights and install an outlet for the timer and buy short lamp cord, but that means a trip to the store. That might turn out to be the most time/cost/safety efficient method, but if I don't have to get into the car AGAIN...
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
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    Jim - Here are two sample single gang timers. <br>
    <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-15-Amp-In-Wall-3-Way-Daylight-Adjusting-Digital-Timer-Switch-with-Screw-Terminals-White-32648/300524126">https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-15-Amp-In-Wall-3-Way-Daylight-Adjusting-Digital-Timer-Switch-with-Screw-Terminals-White-32648/300524126</a><br>
    <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-7-Day-Programmable-Timer-Switch-for-Lights-and-Motors-RPLS730B1000-U/206311889">https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-7-Day-Programmable-Timer-Switch-for-Lights-and-Motors-RPLS730B1000-U/206311889</a><br>
    <br>
    Also, you might want to check about Romex in conduit.  I don't think
    you can do that according to code, except for short sections open at
    both ends.  I think the issue is possible heat buildup and the
    thermal rating of the wire insulation.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/10/2019 12:59 PM, Jim Franklin
      via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:A4A3F3E3-00E7-4C84-8F87-1D0CAC5C2690@groupwbench.org">
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">I should have prefaced that I know what "right" is, and it's just not gonna happen for various reasons. There will be proper boxes where the fixture wiring connects to the Romex, at least. It's the other end that's the issue.

A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches with built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? There's an ugly floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, and if I can repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with the new light wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, that would be quite close to "right".

Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for the Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)

jim

</pre>
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">On Nov 10, 2019, at 3:44 PM, Steven Trovato <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:strovato@optonline.net">&lt;strovato@optonline.net&gt;</a> wrote:

Jim,

If these are regular wall mounted lights, they should be wired directly into a box.  You should add a line from power source to a switch and then to the lights.  All of this should be done within the walls, ceiling, etc of the building, or in conduit if mounted on the surface.  The switch you use can incorporate a timer if desired.  There should be no plugs involved, and no lamp cord.  Of course you can rig up anything you want and make the lights come on, but it won't be proper or safe like that.  Is this intended to be a permanent installation?  If it is, do it right.

-Steve

At 03:00 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
</pre>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">I'm addinng external carriage lights and have a 50' roll of 14/2 Romex I'd like to use up, not to mention 50' of 14/2 stranded is almost $1/ft.

I'd like to have the lights on a timer. I have outlets in the garage, and I happen to have a mechanical timer that you'd use for a livingroom lamp, etc.

Can I use a regular add-on plug that you'd normally use with stranded wire and just attach the Romex to it? Are there plugs made for solid wire?

I could always use the Romex to extend the circuit to near the carriage lights and install an outlet for the timer and buy short lamp cord, but that means a trip to the store. That might turn out to be the most time/cost/safety efficient method, but if I don't have to get into the car AGAIN...

thanks,
jim
</pre>
        </blockquote>
        <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">
</pre>
      </blockquote>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">
</pre>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 14:39:16 2019
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To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plug for 14/2 solid wire?
From: Jim Franklin via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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The code is not clear, i.e. it states a few things that can be =
interpreted as "no Romex in conduit" but doesn't explicitly forbid it. I =
also think it explicitly permits it when going from a protected area (my =
garage walls) to an unprotected area (the new junction box flush mounted =
to the ceiling).=20

Realistically, I'd worry more about heat buildup in an insulated wall =
that I would metal conduit in a garage in New England. I suppose some =
future yahoo could repurpose ths wiring to run something beyond spec, =
but as it'll be hardwired to the 11 watt lights I'm not concerned enough =
to buy individual wires to run through the conduit I am not sure I'll be =
buying yet :-)

jim

> On Nov 10, 2019, at 4:22 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
>=20
> Jim - Here are two sample single gang timers.=20
>=20
> =
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-15-Amp-In-Wall-3-Way-Daylight-Adjustin=
g-Digital-Timer-Switch-with-Screw-Terminals-White-32648/300524126
>=20
> =
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-7-Day-Programmable-Timer-Switch-for-=
Lights-and-Motors-RPLS730B1000-U/206311889
>=20
> Also, you might want to check about Romex in conduit.  I don't think =
you can do that according to code, except for short sections open at =
both ends.  I think the issue is possible heat buildup and the thermal =
rating of the wire insulation.
>=20
> Brian
>=20
> On 11/10/2019 12:59 PM, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I should have prefaced that I know what "right" is, and it's just not =
gonna happen for various reasons. There will be proper boxes where the =
fixture wiring connects to the Romex, at least. It's the other end =
that's the issue.
>>=20
>> A quick Google doesn't find any direct-wire single-gang switches with =
built-in timers, which would be neat. Do you know of any? There's an =
ugly floodlight already switched that I'd like to remove, and if I can =
repurpose the wiring to that into a junction box with the new light =
wiring, and replace the switch with a timered switch, that would be =
quite close to "right".
>>=20
>> Heck, I might even get excited enough to buy some rigid conduit for =
the Romex instead of leaving it exposed :-)
>>=20
>> jim
>>=20
>>=20
>>> On Nov 10, 2019, at 3:44 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
>>>  wrote:
>>>=20
>>> Jim,
>>>=20
>>> If these are regular wall mounted lights, they should be wired =
directly into a box.  You should add a line from power source to a =
switch and then to the lights.  All of this should be done within the =
walls, ceiling, etc of the building, or in conduit if mounted on the =
surface.  The switch you use can incorporate a timer if desired.  There =
should be no plugs involved, and no lamp cord.  Of course you can rig up =
anything you want and make the lights come on, but it won't be proper or =
safe like that.  Is this intended to be a permanent installation?  If it =
is, do it right.
>>>=20
>>> -Steve
>>>=20
>>> At 03:00 PM 11/10/2019, Jim Franklin via Shop-talk wrote:
>>>=20
>>>> I'm addinng external carriage lights and have a 50' roll of 14/2 =
Romex I'd like to use up, not to mention 50' of 14/2 stranded is almost =
$1/ft.
>>>>=20
>>>> I'd like to have the lights on a timer. I have outlets in the =
garage, and I happen to have a mechanical timer that you'd use for a =
livingroom lamp, etc.
>>>>=20
>>>> Can I use a regular add-on plug that you'd normally use with =
stranded wire and just attach the Romex to it? Are there plugs made for =
solid wire?
>>>>=20
>>>> I could always use the Romex to extend the circuit to near the =
carriage lights and install an outlet for the timer and buy short lamp =
cord, but that means a trip to the store. That might turn out to be the =
most time/cost/safety efficient method, but if I don't have to get into =
the car AGAIN...
>>>>=20
>>>> thanks,
>>>> jim
>>>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>>=20
>>=20
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> Donate:=20
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>=20
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive:=20
>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>>=20
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>=20


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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 19:18:17 -0500
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References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
 (Java/1.8.0_181)
Subject: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: John Mitchell via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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To: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>,Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
 <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50@snet.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4657952399454876311==
	boundary="=====================_14626341==.ALT"

--=====================_14626341==.ALT

I found lots of opinions on this, including some people who put the 
blade on the saw backwards!  Yes, on purpose.  I don't know about 
that, but  I found this:

<https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2014/06/23/cut-garage-floor-tile/>https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2014/06/23/cut-garage-floor-tile/ 


There seem to be a lot of different approaches to this.  I guess if 
it was me, I would try it with whatever blade I have.  If I wasn't 
happy with that, I'd try a fine tooth laminate blade.

-Steve

At 07:18 PM 11/10/2019, John Mitchell via Shop-talk wrote:
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64I'm putting down racedeck type 
>garage tiles and I'm wondering what the
>best blade is for my miter saw.  Should I get the finest tooth blade I
>can find or will a 60 tooth 12" blade suffice?

--=====================_14626341==.ALT

<html>
<body>
I found lots of opinions on this, including some people who put the blade
on the saw backwards!&nbsp; Yes, on purpose.&nbsp; I don't know about
that, but&nbsp; I found this:<br><br>
<a href="https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2014/06/23/cut-garage-floor-tile/">
https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2014/06/23/cut-garage-floor-tile/</a>
<br><br>
There seem to be a lot of different approaches to this.&nbsp; I guess if
it was me, I would try it with whatever blade I have.&nbsp; If I wasn't
happy with that, I'd try a fine tooth laminate blade.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 07:18 PM 11/10/2019, John Mitchell via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Content-Transfer-Encoding:
base64I'm putting down racedeck type garage tiles and I'm wondering what
the <br>
best blade is for my miter saw.&nbsp; Should I get the finest tooth blade
I <br>
can find or will a 60 tooth 12&quot; blade suffice?<br>
</blockquote></body>
</html>

--=====================_14626341==.ALT--


--===============4657952399454876311==
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 IUF78kIdz2Qmgp4VwLlU5rQIfOYrfCP9xXgD4oKW51TYPyB+9Sg1IlfaFTCd59xspdsS
 JsCim3cEw+xnO7eNLe3kfCxsRN5GIknCKkowxMzhyFIUh7IFs1HGbO6Tt5lZSegWhmXV
 9+Iw==
 zv6JxQPQgA1eC94IFU9Y+X0xpcyf4NRXYHWgU/8QODez
 Sun, 10 Nov 2019 17:51:14 -0800 (PST)
References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
 <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50@snet.net>
 <CAG1pxgby3TiHKv=J17iooDeNdFfSqxGjdhLVoeXEA5DvYDEQaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 17:52:14 -0800
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: old dirtbeard via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0707294532915123572==

--000000000000e8aabb0597085d6a

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
To: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>


Hi John,

I just put down 980 sq ft of Racedeck tile in my garage and used the
regular multipurpose 10" blade that was on my compound miter saw. Worked
fine, but it threw plastic chips everywhere.

I eventually took it outdoors and sawed them there, but it still made a big
mess.

If I had it to do over, I would use a very fine blade or something else to
cut them. I was cleaning-up plastic chips for weeks...

best,

doug

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 4:18 PM John Mitchell via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> I'm putting down racedeck type garage tiles and I'm wondering what the
> best blade is for my miter saw.  Should I get the finest tooth blade I
> can find or will a 60 tooth 12" blade suffice?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000e8aabb0597085d6a
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">---------- Forwarded message ---------<br>From: <strong cla=
ss=3D"gmail_sendername" dir=3D"auto">old dirtbeard</strong> <span dir=3D"au=
to">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;<=
/span><br>Date: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 5:07 PM<br>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mi=
ter saw blade for plastic tiles<br>To: John Mitchell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
jmitch@snet.net">jmitch@snet.net</a>&gt;<br></div><br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">=
Hi John,<div><br></div><div>I just put down 980 sq ft of Racedeck tile in m=
y garage and used the regular multipurpose=C2=A010&quot; blade that was on =
my compound miter saw. Worked fine, but it threw plastic chips everywhere.=
=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I eventually took it outdoors and sawed the=
m there, but it still made a big mess.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>If I =
had it to do over, I would use a very fine blade or something else to cut t=
hem. I was cleaning-up plastic chips for weeks...</div><div><br></div><div>=
best,</div><div><br></div><div>doug</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 4:18 PM Jo=
hn Mitchell via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" t=
arget=3D"_blank">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquo=
te class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px =
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I&#39;m putting down racedeck type=
 garage tiles and I&#39;m wondering what the <br>
best blade is for my miter saw.=C2=A0 Should I get the finest tooth blade I=
 <br>
can find or will a 60 tooth 12&quot; blade suffice?<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</div></div>

--000000000000e8aabb0597085d6a--

--===============0707294532915123572==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============0707294532915123572==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 08:15:40 2019
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References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
 <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50@snet.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 10:15:23 -0500
To: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Paul Parkanzky via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My current favorite flooring for my rentals is Quality Craft's
"Expressa" vinyl planking. One of the biggest selling points for me is
that it's solid PVC all the way through so it's genuinely completely
waterproof (You could store it in your swimming pool for a season and
still install it). Another upside to that is that it's super easy to
work with. It cuts great on a power miter saw, with a jig saw, a
dremel, etc.

Finer toothed blades make a slightly nicer cut but are a bit slower
(It won't matter much, no matter what you do it cuts like butter).
However, your options are a coarser blade and big piles of fluffy
chips or a fine-toothed blade and endless PVC dust (I'd wear a mask if
you choose the latter). Because of that, I just cut it with a normal
wood blade and sweep/shopvac up garbage bags full of chips.

I think you're facing the same decision with your RaceDeck.

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 7:18 PM John Mitchell via Shop-talk
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I'm putting down racedeck type garage tiles and I'm wondering what the
> best blade is for my miter saw.  Should I get the finest tooth blade I
> can find or will a 60 tooth 12" blade suffice?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 08:22:56 2019
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References: <CAO8Q7COsJM8mzmguJadDAZZurNPNTPb370LiA2C3YynLzcpgmA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 10:22:40 -0500
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hatchet
From: Paul Parkanzky via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you want old-school, there are some small companies out there
making traditional axes and hatchets that people swear by. Expect to
be gouged though.

If you're open to modern, I've been endlessly impressed with all of
the Fiskars axes and hatchets I've used over the years. Under $30 on
Amazon. I know Estwing makes a hatchet too and I'd be willing to give
that a try since they're my go-to for hammers. They're what I'd buy if
I planned to occasionally use the back of an axe to drive it through a
stubborn round.

On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 4:59 PM Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Well, I've destroyed my ancient Plumb 14 inch hatchet.  I probably shouldn't have abused it...
>
> Anyone bought a quality hatchet lately that they'd recommend?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 05:14:15 2019
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References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
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 <74.CA.03419.64BB8CD5@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 07:13:57 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8043772795327861808==

--0000000000005f83580597252fb3

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 8:37 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

> I found lots of opinions on this, including some people who put the blade
> on the saw backwards!  Yes, on purpose.
>

I've built a lot of research equipment out of PVC pipe.  Table saw with the
blade on backwards makes absolutely the smoothest cut ever.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

--0000000000005f83580597252fb3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 8:37 PM Steve=
n Trovato via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">sho=
p-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,20=
4);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
I found lots of opinions on this, including some people who put the blade
on the saw backwards!=C2=A0 Yes, on purpose.=C2=A0</div></blockquote><div><=
br></div><div>I&#39;ve built a lot of research equipment out of PVC pipe.=
=C2=A0 Table saw with the blade on backwards makes absolutely the smoothest=
 cut ever.=C2=A0 =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Jeff Scarbrough</div><div>=
Corrosion Acres, Ga.</div></div></div>

--0000000000005f83580597252fb3--

--===============8043772795327861808==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============8043772795327861808==--

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 Tue, 12 Nov 2019 07:48:40 -0800 (PST)
References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
 <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50@snet.net>
 <74.CA.03419.64BB8CD5@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <CAO8Q7COTHHU2P1-xzn=trjy97P4GPs=okqJ-zjb1BQXScrLaqA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 07:48:30 -0800
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: old dirtbeard via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0820969251941961623==

--000000000000aa62060597282e76

Thanks Jeff,

Does it reduce the amount of chip/dust mess?

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 4:14 AM Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:

>
>
> On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 8:37 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <
> shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I found lots of opinions on this, including some people who put the blade
>> on the saw backwards!  Yes, on purpose.
>>
>
> I've built a lot of research equipment out of PVC pipe.  Table saw with
> the blade on backwards makes absolutely the smoothest cut ever.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000aa62060597282e76
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Thanks Jeff,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Does it reduce the amount of chip/dust mess?</div></div><br><div class=3D"=
gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 4:=
14 AM Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.t=
eam.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><br><div class=3D=
"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at=
 8:37 PM Steven Trovato via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
I found lots of opinions on this, including some people who put the blade
on the saw backwards!=C2=A0 Yes, on purpose.=C2=A0</div></blockquote><div><=
br></div><div>I&#39;ve built a lot of research equipment out of PVC pipe.=
=C2=A0 Table saw with the blade on backwards makes absolutely the smoothest=
 cut ever.=C2=A0 =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Jeff Scarbrough</div><div>=
Corrosion Acres, Ga.</div></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000aa62060597282e76--

--===============0820969251941961623==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============0820969251941961623==--

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Mike Rambour via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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To: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: John Mitchell via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 11:34:54 2019
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 id 1iUb04-002x1W-NZ; Tue, 12 Nov 2019 12:34:48 -0600
To: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50.ref@snet.net>
 <ba4eaec9-fec8-60af-c252-46fcb0f47a50@snet.net>
 <4c6d96cc-012b-d248-f49b-0efc3d60de46@dinospider.com>
 <68b880a1-da8d-9497-969e-af67340aaf43@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 10:34:46 -0800
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Content-Language: en-US
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 [128.111.216.187]:40799
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Mike Rambour via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 12:23:09 2019
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <e6aef01e-aec2-6b87-f74a-9d820743854b@dinospider.com>
 <61D78BA8-4F8E-4C0B-AFBB-2D8C0AAECEE2@icloud.com>
 <1c54fcba-55f7-b6cd-f354-f972ff40146f@dinospider.com>
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Content-Language: en-US
 please include it with any abuse report
 [128.111.216.187]:43652
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Mike Rambour via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 18:38:53 2019
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References: <e6aef01e-aec2-6b87-f74a-9d820743854b@dinospider.com>
To: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Pat Horne via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 10:03:53 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Jeff Scarbrough via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1586781594724739216==

--00000000000005faca05978c249e

I got a couple of questions:



> Does it reduce the amount of chip/dust mess?
>
>>
As I recall, I ended up with a pile of flakes.  No messier than cutting
anything else.

> Do you think this would work on a sliding miter saw?  Does it matter how
fine a blade?

I used maybe a 40-tooth blade.  On a sliding saw, I'd be very wary of
something getting out of control - you're holding the material, you're
holding the saw...and you're doing something that's definitely
non-standard.  Probably void ing a warranty, too.  :)

--00000000000005faca05978c249e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">I got a couple of questions:<div><br></di=
v><div><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"gmai=
l_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,20=
4,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">Does it reduce the amount of chip/dust mess?</div></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"></b=
lockquote></div></blockquote><div><br>As I recall, I ended up with a pile o=
f flakes.=C2=A0 No messier than cutting anything else.</div><div><br></div>=
<div>&gt; Do you think this would work on a sliding miter saw?=C2=A0 Does i=
t matter how fine a blade?</div><div><br></div><div>I used maybe a 40-tooth=
 blade.=C2=A0 On a sliding saw, I&#39;d be very wary of something getting o=
ut of control - you&#39;re holding the material, you&#39;re holding the saw=
...and you&#39;re doing something that&#39;s definitely non-standard.=C2=A0=
 Probably void ing a warranty, too.=C2=A0 :)</div><div><br></div><div><br><=
/div><div>=C2=A0</div></div></div>

--00000000000005faca05978c249e--

--===============1586781594724739216==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1586781594724739216==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 13:00:37 2019
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 11:27:25 -0800
To: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>, Pat Horne
 <patintexas@icloud.com>
References: <e6aef01e-aec2-6b87-f74a-9d820743854b@dinospider.com>
 <61D78BA8-4F8E-4C0B-AFBB-2D8C0AAECEE2@icloud.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Miter saw blade for plastic tiles
From: Berry Kercheval via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============9177632019695149926==

--5dd04da8_327b23c6_7e94
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

The SawStop brake cartridge is =2477 from Amazon, and you can change it y=
ourself.
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001=
G9MGZQ
On Nov 15, 2019, 5:38 PM -0800, Pat Horne via Shop-talk <shop-talk=40auto=
x.team.net>, wrote:
> What does it cost for the puck after the hot dog trick=3F Back in the e=
arly days I think it was about =24175 & required a trip back to the facto=
ry.
>
> I=E2=80=99ve slightly nicked my finger twice on my powermatic 66. Had a=
 shop fire several years ago & it came through fine. Rebuilt it mechanica=
lly but didn=E2=80=99t have time for a repaint.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Pat Horne
> We support Habitat for Humanity
>
>
> > On Nov 12, 2019, at 12:35 PM, Mike Rambour via Shop-talk <shop-talk=40=
autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
>
>
> No never tried the hot dog trick, I went with my finger. Well, with my =
old saw after 35 years of no accidents, I sliced my finger with my table =
saw, nothing too serious, its still there. But I did get a little scared =
and went and got a Sawstop and replaced my Unisaw, my wife figured as I g=
et older, I may get a little more forgetful and besides my Unisaw was a 1=
.75HP model, so it was time to upgrade to 3HP anyway :)
>
> mike
>
>
> > On 11/12/2019 10:17 AM, John Mitchell wrote:
> > I've had some tiles down for 2 years and suddenly they started to cur=
l up around the edges. I installed them with plenty of gap for expansion.=
 I sent =22Garage =46loors=22 pictures and suddenly I had a delivery of a=
ll new tiles. I assume others may have had similar problems with that bat=
ch. Did you ever stick a hot dog into the saw stop=3F
> >
> > > On 11/12/2019 11:09 AM, Mike Rambour via Shop-talk wrote:
> > >
> > > I cut mine on my table saw with my regular wood blade, there was so=
me melting but not much. Other tiles I cut with my sabre saw.
> > >
> > > I remember reading where someone suggested putting the saw blade on=
 backwards to cut Racedeck, but my saw (Sawstop) wont work with the blade=
 backwards so I never even tried.
> > >
> > > You are going to love the tiles, had mine about 15 years now, just =
be careful when you weld or use your plasma cutter :)
> > >
> > > mike
> > >
> > > On 11/10/2019 4:18 PM, John Mitchell via Shop-talk wrote:
> > > > I'm putting down racedeck type garage tiles and I'm wondering wha=
t the best blade is for my miter saw. Should I get the finest tooth blade=
 I can find or will a 60 tooth 12=22 blade suffice=3F
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=

> > > >
> > > > Shop-talk=40autox.team.net
> > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > > Suggested annual donation =2412.96
> > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.tea=
m.net/archive
> > > >
> > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-ta=
lk/lists=40dinospider.com
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
> A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
> you'll probably never need one again.
>
> =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F
>
> Shop-talk=40autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation =2412.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/=
archive
>
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intexas=40icloud.com
>
>
> =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F
>
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ry=40kerch.com
>

--5dd04da8_327b23c6_7e94
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<div name=3D=22messageBodySection=22>
<div dir=3D=22auto=22>The SawStop brake cartridge is =2477 from Amazon, a=
nd you can change it yourself.
<div dir=3D=22auto=22><a href=3D=22https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10=
R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ=22>https://www.amazon.com/SawSt=
op-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ</a><br /></div>
</div>
</div>
<div name=3D=22messageReplySection=22>On Nov 15, 2019, 5:38 PM -0800, Pat=
 Horne via Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk=40autox.team.net&gt;, wrote:<br />
<blockquote type=3D=22cite=22 class=3D=22spark=5Fquote=22 style=3D=22marg=
in: 5px 5px; padding-left: 10px; border-left: thin solid =231abc9c;=22>Wh=
at does it cost for the puck after the hot dog trick=3F Back in the early=
 days I think it was about =24175 &amp; required a trip back to the facto=
ry.<br />
<br />
I=E2=80=99ve slightly nicked my finger twice on my powermatic 66. Had a s=
hop fire several years ago &amp; it came through fine. Rebuilt it mechani=
cally but didn=E2=80=99t have time for a repaint.<br />
<br />
Peace,<br />
Pat<br />
<br />
Pat Horne<br />
We support Habitat for Humanity<br />
<br />
<br />
<blockquote type=3D=22cite=22 class=3D=22spark=5Fquote=22 style=3D=22marg=
in: 5px 5px; padding-left: 10px; border-left: thin solid =23e67e22;=22>On=
 Nov 12, 2019, at 12:35 PM, Mike Rambour via Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk=40au=
tox.team.net&gt; wrote:<br />
<br /></blockquote>
<br />
=EF=BB=BF<br />
No never tried the hot dog trick, I went with my finger. Well, with my ol=
d saw after 35 years of no accidents, I sliced my finger with my table sa=
w, nothing too serious, its still there. But I did get a little scared an=
d went and got a Sawstop and replaced my Unisaw, my wife figured as I get=
 older, I may get a little more forgetful and besides my Unisaw was a 1.7=
5HP model, so it was time to upgrade to 3HP anyway :)<br />
<br />
mike<br />
<br />
<br />
<blockquote type=3D=22cite=22 class=3D=22spark=5Fquote=22 style=3D=22marg=
in: 5px 5px; padding-left: 10px; border-left: thin solid =23e67e22;=22>On=
 11/12/2019 10:17 AM, John Mitchell wrote:<br />
I've had some tiles down for 2 years and suddenly they started to curl up=
 around the edges. I installed them with plenty of gap for expansion. I s=
ent =22Garage =46loors=22 pictures and suddenly I had a delivery of all n=
ew tiles. I assume others may have had similar problems with that batch. =
Did you ever stick a hot dog into the saw stop=3F<br />
<br />
<blockquote type=3D=22cite=22 class=3D=22spark=5Fquote=22 style=3D=22marg=
in: 5px 5px; padding-left: 10px; border-left: thin solid =233498db;=22>On=
 11/12/2019 11:09 AM, Mike Rambour via Shop-talk wrote:<br />
<br />
I cut mine on my table saw with my regular wood blade, there was some mel=
ting but not much. Other tiles I cut with my sabre saw.<br />
<br />
I remember reading where someone suggested putting the saw blade on backw=
ards to cut Racedeck, but my saw (Sawstop) wont work with the blade backw=
ards so I never even tried.<br />
<br />
You are going to love the tiles, had mine about 15 years now, just be car=
eful when you weld or use your plasma cutter :)<br />
<br />
mike<br />
<br />
On 11/10/2019 4:18 PM, John Mitchell via Shop-talk wrote:<br />
<blockquote type=3D=22cite=22 class=3D=22spark=5Fquote=22 style=3D=22marg=
in: 5px 5px; padding-left: 10px; border-left: thin solid =23d35400;=22>I'=
m putting down racedeck type garage tiles and I'm wondering what the best=
 blade is for my miter saw. Should I get the finest tooth blade I can fin=
d or will a 60 tooth 12=22 blade suffice=3F<br />
<br />
<br />
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F<br />
<br />
Shop-talk=40autox.team.net<br />
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive<br />
<br />
=40dinospider.com<br />
<br /></blockquote>
<br /></blockquote>
<br /></blockquote>
<br />
--<br />
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,<br />
you'll probably never need one again.<br />
<br />
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F<br />
<br />
Shop-talk=40autox.team.net<br />
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive<br />
<br />
texas=40icloud.com<br />
<br />
<br />
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=
=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F<br />
<br />
Shop-talk=40autox.team.net<br />
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive<br />
<br />
=40kerch.com<br />
<br /></blockquote>
</div>
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