Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System

From: john niolon via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:40:02 -0600

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Hi Jim.  I do the same every year.  My system is a little larger  =
1500=E2=80=99 of pipe in 7 zones.  I have a backflow preventer valve on =
my sprinkler main line from the house main.  It has a port on each side =
of the valve that you can screw a male air compressor fitting into.  I =
simply drag my hose out the box and using a standard quick coupler on =
the hose connect it to the male fitting on the BFP valve. =20
Then, I manually cycle thru each zone till I get no water at the =
farthest sprinkler head... easy to do and doesn=E2=80=99t take but a =
minute or two on each zone.

john=20

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk=20
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 10:32 AM
To: Shop Talk=20
Subject: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System

I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =
=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I =
was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system =
at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the controller to =
run through each zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system =
is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging =
something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, =
but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would =
pay for itself on the first use: =
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D=
309735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D=
&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&=
hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1. I could save around $10 and just =
buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems =
like a good addition.=20

I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than =
it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  =
(https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor=
-68740.html).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.

Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional =
to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been =
called a no-brainer before.

Thanks,
Jim

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
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[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space" =
dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hi Jim.&nbsp; I do the same every year.&nbsp; My system is a little =

larger&nbsp; 1500=E2=80=99 of pipe in 7 zones.&nbsp; I have a backflow =
preventer valve=20
on my sprinkler main line from the house main.&nbsp; It has a port on =
each side=20
of the valve that you can screw a male air compressor fitting =
into.&nbsp; I=20
simply drag my hose out the box and using a standard quick coupler on =
the hose=20
connect it to the male fitting on the BFP valve.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>Then, I manually cycle thru each zone till I get no water at the =
farthest=20
sprinkler head... easy to do and doesn=E2=80=99t take but a minute or =
two on each=20
zone.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Jim Stone via Shop-talk</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 05, 2019 10:32 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Shop Talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler =
System</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>I=20
need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t =
imagine I need to=20
pay someone to do that job.&nbsp; While I understand the =
=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it=20
is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is =
easier to=20
just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual =
function=20
on the controller to run through each zone until no more water comes =
out.&nbsp;=20
(FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking =
about=20
rigging something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and =
walk away,=20
but found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would =
pay for=20
itself on the first use: <A=20
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucet=
s/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Dd=
f0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D=
11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3D=
c&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dp=
la-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1">https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-S=
ystems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhypro=
d-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvn=
etw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp=
;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D90=
04590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</A>.=20
I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, =
but the=20
shut off valve seems like a good addition.=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble =
than it=20
is worth to get air to the master drain valve.&nbsp; Instead, I was =
planning on=20
just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.&nbsp; (<A=20
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-com=
pressor-68740.html">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-=
lube-air-compressor-68740.html</A>).&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around =
this=20
should be sufficient.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Am I missing anything?&nbsp; Is there any good reason to pay a =
professional=20
to do this job?&nbsp; It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve =
been called a=20
no-brainer before.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Jim</DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR><BR>[email-masked]=
am.net<BR>Donate:=20
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From: Pat Horne via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 11:07:58 -0600

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Might be worth having a =E2=80=9Cprofessional=E2=80=9D come out once to see h=
ow it should be done.=20

Personally, I=E2=80=99d just use the compressor at the drain.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 10:33 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]=
.net> wrote:
>=20

=EF=BB=BFI need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=
=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =E2=
=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I was tol=
d a few years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system at the dra=
in valve and then use the manual function on the controller to run through e=
ach zone until no more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large a=
nd has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow=
 me to attach my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which s=
eems like a good investment that would pay for itself on the first use: http=
s://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ=
/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D3097357143=
75&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&hvptwo=3D&=
hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvtargid=3Dpla=
-570302725618&psc=3D1. I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick d=
isconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.

I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it is=
 worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was planning on jus=
t using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  (https://www.harborfre=
ight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html).   My water p=
ressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be=
 sufficient.

Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do=
 this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a=
 no-brainer before.

Thanks,
Jim

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

[email-masked]

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Might be worth having a =E2=80=9Cprofession=
al=E2=80=9D come out once to see how it should be done.&nbsp;<div><br></div>=
<div>Personally, I=E2=80=99d just use the compressor at the drain.&nbsp;</di=
v><div><br></div><div>Peace,</div><div>Pat<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne=
&nbsp;<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Nov 5, 2019, at 10:33 AM, Jim Sto=
ne via Shop-talk &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D=
"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler s=
ystem and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job. &nbsp;=
While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually o=
pen each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier to just pressur=
ize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual function on the co=
ntroller to run through each zone until no more water comes out. &nbsp;(FWIW=
, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about riggin=
g something up that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, bu=
t found this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would pay fo=
r itself on the first use:&nbsp;<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-=
Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=
=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&am=
p;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&a=
mp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D900=
4590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1" class=3D"">https://www.ama=
zon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_=
df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&=
amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D=
&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&am=
p;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I coul=
d save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the s=
hut off valve seems like a good addition.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></di=
v><div class=3D"">I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more t=
rouble than it is worth to get air to the master drain valve. &nbsp;Instead,=
 I was planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. &=
nbsp;(<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-a=
ir-compressor-68740.html" class=3D"">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-h=
p-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html</a>). &nbsp; My water pressure i=
s regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be sufficie=
nt.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Am I missing a=
nything? &nbsp;Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do this job=
? &nbsp;It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-=
brainer before.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Th=
anks,</div><div class=3D"">Jim</div><span>__________________________________=
_____________</span><br><span></span><br><span>[email-masked]</spa=
n><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggeste=
d annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/=
pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br=
><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/p=
[email-masked]</span><br><span></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 12:16:17 -0500

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Jim,
I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago 
and I have been using it every time I need to 
winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or 
other similar tasks.  I usually run a garden hose 
from whatever drain valve I want to the 
compressor.  I use my adapter at the compressor 
end of the garden hose to connect to the air 
supply.  I have enough garden hose that routing 
to the drain valve isn't really a problem.  I 
don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a 
lot of air volume through to push the water 
out.  My main garage compressor is my first 
choice, but I have used a smaller portable one 
and it did OK.  As for purchasing that adapter, I 
would do it.  I don't know if such a thing 
existed when I made mine.  Twenty bucks would be 
worth it to me for the convenience.  Of course, 
if you have the pieces already and you don't want 
to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would 
also be a reasonable thing to do.  I don't have a 
shutoff on mine and I don't really miss it.

-Steve

At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler 
>system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someone 
>to do that job.  While I understand the 
>=E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is to manually open 
>each valve, I was told a few years ago that it 
>is easier to just pressurize the system at the 
>drain valve and then use the manual function on 
>the controller to run through each zone until no 
>more water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not 
>that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking 
>about rigging something up that would allow me 
>to attach my compressor and walk away, but found 
>this on Amazon, which seems like a good 
>investment that would pay for itself on the 
>first use: 
><https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&h=
vptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvta=
rgid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1>https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-=
Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod=
-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D309735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11=
131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvloc=
int=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1. 
>I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to 
>quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good additio=
n.
>
>I have fairly large compressor, but think it 
>will be more trouble than it is worth to get air 
>to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was 
>planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal 
>portable 
>compressor. 
>(<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor=
-68740.html>https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html). 
>My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I 
>figured something around this should be sufficient.
>
>Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason 
>to pay a professional to do this job?  It seems 
>like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-brainer before.=

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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<html>
<body>
Jim,<br>
I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using it
every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or other
similar tasks.&nbsp; I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain
valve I want to the compressor.&nbsp; I use my adapter at the compressor
end of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.&nbsp; I have enough
garden hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a problem.&nbsp;
I don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume
through to push the water out.&nbsp; My main garage compressor is my
first choice, but I have used a smaller portable one and it did OK.&nbsp;
As for purchasing that adapter, I would do it.&nbsp; I don't know if such
a thing existed when I made mine.&nbsp; Twenty bucks would be worth it to
me for the convenience.&nbsp; Of course, if you have the pieces already
and you don't want to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would also
be a reasonable thing to do.&nbsp; I don't have a shutoff on mine and I
don't really miss it.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve <br><br>
At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">I need to drain and winteriz=
e my
new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do =
that
job.&nbsp; While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way to do it is =
to
manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier to
just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual
function on the controller to run through each zone until no more water
comes out.&nbsp; (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I
was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my
compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a
good investment that would pay for itself on the first use:
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Fauce=
ts/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf=
0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&am=
p;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570=
302725618&amp;psc=3D1">
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055=
QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadi=
d=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144=
962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=
=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&=
amp;psc=3D1</a>
=2E I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect
fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.<br><br>
I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it
is worth to get air to the master drain valve.&nbsp; Instead, I was
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.&nbsp;
(<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html">
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68=
740.html</a>
).&nbsp;&nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured
something around this should be sufficient.<br><br>
Am I missing anything?&nbsp; Is there any good reason to pay a
professional to do this job?&nbsp; It seems like a no-brainer to me, but
I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-brainer before.<br><br>
Thanks,<br>
Jim</blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
<table style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
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[email-masked]

--===============7823117303994877913==--

---

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:48:50 -0500

--===============4753717707333948602==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_D03C605D-76B4-447D-B507-F2C337AF657A"

--Apple-Mail=_D03C605D-76B4-447D-B507-F2C337AF657A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, =
well ahead of any freezing temperatures.

John=E2=80=99s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me =
rethinking one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an =
outside hose barb that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had =
thought it made sense to move ahead of that and start where the system =
originates in the basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest =
of the system and blow it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason =
not to do it that.  If there is a backflow preventer valve between the =
hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from =
there?

Jim

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 12:16 PM, Steven Trovato via Shop-talk =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Jim,
> I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using =
it every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or =
other similar tasks.  I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain =
valve I want to the compressor.  I use my adapter at the compressor end =
of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.  I have enough garden =
hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a problem.  I don't =
need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume through to =
push the water out.  My main garage compressor is my first choice, but I =
have used a smaller portable one and it did OK.  As for purchasing that =
adapter, I would do it.  I don't know if such a thing existed when I =
made mine.  Twenty bucks would be worth it to me for the convenience.  =
Of course, if you have the pieces already and you don't want to wait for =
an adapter to arrive, making it would also be a reasonable thing to do.  =
I don't have a shutoff on mine and I don't really miss it. =20
> -Steve=20
>> I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=C3=A2=C2=80=
=C2=99t imagine I need to pay someone to do that job.  While I =
understand the =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=98proper=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99 way to do it =
is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is =
easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the =
manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more =
water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). =
I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach =
my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like =
a good investment that would pay for itself on the first use: =
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B005=
5QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&=
hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hv=
targid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1 =
<https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B00=
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D3=
09735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D=
&hvptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&h=
vtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1> . I could save around $10 and just =
buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems =
like a good addition.
>>=20
>> I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble =
than it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  ( =
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-6=
8740.html =
<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html> ).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.
>>=20
>> Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a =
professional to do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but =
I=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99ve been called a no-brainer before.
>  =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient&utm_term=3Dicon>	=
Virus-free. www.avast.com =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
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<x-msg://45/#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>________________________=
_______________________
>=20
> [email-masked]
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks, guys. &nbsp;I just bought the adapter; it will be =
here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.<div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">John=E2=80=99s comment =
about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking one aspect of =
my plan. &nbsp;The system installer put in an outside hose barb that he =
intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made sense to =
move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the =
basement. &nbsp;I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system =
and blow it out from there. &nbsp;Unless there is a good reason not to =
do it that. &nbsp;If there is a&nbsp;backflow preventer valve between =
the hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out =
from there?<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Jim</div><div class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Nov 5, 2019, at 12:16 PM, =
Steven Trovato via Shop-talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
Jim,<br class=3D"">
I rigged up an adapter like that many years ago and I have been using it
every time I need to winterize a sprinkler system, summer home or other
similar tasks.&nbsp; I usually run a garden hose from whatever drain
valve I want to the compressor.&nbsp; I use my adapter at the compressor
end of the garden hose to connect to the air supply.&nbsp; I have enough
garden hose that routing to the drain valve isn't really a =
problem.&nbsp;
I don't need a lot of air pressure, but I blast a lot of air volume
through to push the water out.&nbsp; My main garage compressor is my
first choice, but I have used a smaller portable one and it did =
OK.&nbsp;
As for purchasing that adapter, I would do it.&nbsp; I don't know if =
such
a thing existed when I made mine.&nbsp; Twenty bucks would be worth it =
to
me for the convenience.&nbsp; Of course, if you have the pieces already
and you don't want to wait for an adapter to arrive, making it would =
also
be a reasonable thing to do.&nbsp; I don't have a shutoff on mine and I
don't really miss it.&nbsp; <br class=3D""><br class=3D"">
-Steve <br class=3D""><br class=3D"">
At 11:32 AM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:<br class=3D"">
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite" cite=3D"">I need to drain and =
winterize my
new sprinkler system and can=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99t imagine I need to pay =
someone to do that
job.&nbsp; While I understand the =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=98proper=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99=
 way to do it is to
manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it is easier =
to
just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the manual
function on the controller to run through each zone until no more water
comes out.&nbsp; (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I
was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach my
compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a
good investment that would pay for itself on the first use:
<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets=
/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0=
&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&a=
mp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-5=
70302725618&amp;psc=3D1" class=3D"">
=
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B005=
5QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hva=
did=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794=
144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvc=
mdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725=
618&amp;psc=3D1</a>
. I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect
fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">
I have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than =
it
is worth to get air to the master drain valve.&nbsp; Instead, I was
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable =
compressor.&nbsp;
(<a =
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-comp=
ressor-68740.html" class=3D"">
=
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-6=
8740.html</a>
).&nbsp;&nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured
something around this should be sufficient.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">
Am I missing anything?&nbsp; Is there any good reason to pay a
professional to do this job?&nbsp; It seems like a no-brainer to me, but
I=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99ve been called a no-brainer before.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">
Thanks,<br class=3D"">
Jim</blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">
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_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
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[email-masked]

--===============4753717707333948602==--

---

From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 13:07:36 -0500

That's what I always did.  The air you are 
introducing is going in the same direction as the 
usual water flow so it passes through without any problem.

-Steve

At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it 
>will be here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>
>John’s comment about a backflow preventer 
>valve does have me rethinking one aspect of my 
>plan.  The system installer put in an outside 
>hose barb that he intended for blowing out the 
>system, but I had thought it made sense to move 
>ahead of that and start where the system 
>originates in the basement.  I can isolate the 
>sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow 
>it out from there.  Unless there is a good 
>reason not to do it that.  If there is a 
>backflow preventer valve between the hose barb 
>and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>
>Jim

[email-masked]

utox.team.net

---

From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2019 13:14:33 -0500

I shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I 
think he is just saying that his backflow 
preventer has a convenient port that he uses to 
connect.  I don't think he is saying that the 
backflow preventer presents any other problem for 
the operation.  I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.

-Steve T.

[email-masked]

utox.team.net

---

From: john niolon via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 13:20:37 -0600

You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the 
check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no 
resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for 
doing what we???re discussing.

j

-----Original Message----- 
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System

-Steve T.

At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, well 
>ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>
>John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking 
>one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose barb 
>that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made 
>sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the 
>basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow 
>it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  If 
>there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basement, 
>might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>
>Jim

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
http://autox.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

---

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:40:29 -0500

Thanks guys.

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:20 PM, john niolon via Shop-talk <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for doing what we???re discussing.
> 
> j
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk
>> Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thursday, well ahead of any freezing temperatures.
>> 
>> John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me rethinking one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose barb that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in the basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system and blow it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  If there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basement, might there be a problem blowing it out from there?
>> 
>> Jim
> 
> 
> -- 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked] 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
> 

[email-masked]

---

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 08:24:22 -0500

--===============4749722895582341369==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_D1A9E656-850C-4073-8BA1-E390D3635A16"

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I thought I=E2=80=99d update =
this with some new information.  The adaptor was well made and the =
shut-off valve proved to be very handy; it was well worth the $20.  It =
also came with excellent instructions that mostly agreed with what was =
said here, with one exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid blowing compressed =
air through the PVB because doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D  I =
assume my system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=80=99t find it and just =
went ahead and blew it out from the basement as discussed.

The instructions also recommend that the compressor should be "as large =
as possible, preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D  I think that is =
good advice, as my little HF 8 gallon compressor was barely (I think) up =
to the task.  I initially set it to 50 lbs, the recommended pressure, =
but it was only putting out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up =
to get it a little higher.  Even so, the compressor would fully extend =
the spray heads for the first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble water =
out with the head retracted.  The compressor ran constantly while the =
system was on, so I gave it a rest between blowing out each zone.  I =
also blew out each zone at least three times, but there was sill some =
spray at the beginning each time.  I am going to do it one more time =
today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be completely dry.  I assume it won=E2=80=
=99t be an issue when the little bit of water remaining in the system =
freezes, but someone please let me know if I am wrong about this.  My 60 =
gal compressor is about 150 yards away from the water inlet, but I could =
make that work if necessary.

Just in time, as the cold weather arrived today, with the first below =
freezing temps expected tonight.

Cheers,
Jim

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim Stone <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
vtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1>. I could save around $10 and just =
it is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  =
(https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html =
<https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html>).   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured =
something around this should be sufficient.
> Jim

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	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">The =
Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I thought I=E2=80=99d update this =
with some new information. &nbsp;The adaptor was well made and&nbsp;the =
shut-off valve proved to be very handy; it was well worth the $20. =
&nbsp;It also came with excellent instructions that mostly agreed with =
what was said here, with one exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid blowing =
compressed air through the PVB because doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D=
 &nbsp;I assume my system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=80=99t find it and =
just went ahead and blew it out from the basement as discussed.<div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The instructions also =
recommend that the compressor should be "as large as possible, =
preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D &nbsp;I think that is good =
advice, as my little HF 8 gallon compressor was barely (I think) up to =
the task. &nbsp;I initially set it to 50 lbs, the recommended pressure, =
but it was only putting out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up =
to get it a little higher. &nbsp;Even so, the compressor would fully =
extend the spray heads for the first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble =
water out with the head retracted. &nbsp;The compressor ran constantly =
while the system was on, so I gave it a rest between blowing out each =
zone. &nbsp;I also blew out each zone at least three times, but there =
was sill some spray at the beginning each time. &nbsp;I am going to do =
it one more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be completely dry. =
&nbsp;I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue when the little bit of water =
remaining in the system freezes, but someone please let me know if I am =
wrong about this. &nbsp;My 60 gal compressor is about 150 yards away =
from the water inlet, but I could make that work if necessary.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Just in time, as the =
cold weather arrived today, with the first below freezing temps expected =
tonight.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Cheers,</div><div class=3D"">Jim<br class=3D""><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Nov =
5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim Stone &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: =
space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I need to drain and =
winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to =
pay someone to do that job. &nbsp;While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=
=80=99 way to do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few =
years ago that it is easier to just pressurize the system at the drain =
valve and then use the manual function on the controller to run through =
each zone until no more water comes out. &nbsp;(FWIW, my system is not =
that large and has 6 zones.). I was thinking about rigging something up =
that would allow me to attach my compressor and walk away, but found =
this on Amazon, which seems like a good investment that would pay for =
itself on the first use:&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets=
/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0=
&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D111=
31050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&a=
mp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-5=
70302725618&amp;psc=3D1" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Fauc=
ets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3D=
df0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D=
11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3D=
c&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpl=
a-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I could save around $10 and just buy a =
hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shut off valve seems like a =
good addition.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I =
have fairly large compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it =
is worth to get air to the master drain valve. &nbsp;Instead, I was =
planning on just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. =
&nbsp;(<a =
href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-comp=
ressor-68740.html" =
class=3D"">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-c=
ompressor-68740.html</a>). &nbsp; My water pressure is regulated to 60 =
lbs, so I figured something around this should be sufficient.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Am I missing anything? =
&nbsp;Is there any good reason to pay a professional to do this job? =
&nbsp;It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a =
no-brainer before.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Thanks,</div><div =
class=3D"">Jim</div></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_D1A9E656-850C-4073-8BA1-E390D3635A16--

--===============4749722895582341369==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============4749722895582341369==--

---

From: Scott Hall via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 09:47:36 -0500

--===============6452121912598530414==

--0000000000008ccd4c0596d6ddbd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jim,

I'm going to assume this is a similar thing to winterizing a swimming
pool.

For pools, there are frequent warnings abounot using a compressor to blow
the lines, or to make sure to keep the PSI below 20.

It is frequently mentioned that a shop vac or dedicated blower tool is
preferred.  The thought is that to remove the air high pressure is not the
goal (and that high pressure and damage the PVC pipe and related fittings)
but rather high volume.  And that a shop vac is the better way to achieve
that.

At least that's what the internet said.

I used my compressor, set to 15 psi.  I guess we'll know in the spring how
I did--it just hit 18 degrees here this morning.

It sounds like your sprinkler system operates similarly.

On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 8:24 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I thought I=E2=80=99d update thi=
s with
> some new information.  The adaptor was well made and the shut-off valve
> proved to be very handy; it was well worth the $20.  It also came with
> excellent instructions that mostly agreed with what was said here, with o=
ne
> exception: it said =E2=80=9Cavoid blowing compressed air through the PVB =
because
> doing so may damage the BVP.=E2=80=9D  I assume my system has a BVP in it=
, but
> can=E2=80=99t find it and just went ahead and blew it out from the baseme=
nt as
> discussed.
>
> The instructions also recommend that the compressor should be "as large a=
s
> possible, preferably 15 gallons or larger.=E2=80=9D  I think that is good=
 advice,
> as my little HF 8 gallon compressor was barely (I think) up to the task. =
 I
> initially set it to 50 lbs, the recommended pressure, but it was only
> putting out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up to get it a litt=
le
> higher.  Even so, the compressor would fully extend the spray heads for t=
he
> first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble water out with the head
> retracted.  The compressor ran constantly while the system was on, so I
> gave it a rest between blowing out each zone.  I also blew out each zone =
at
> least three times, but there was sill some spray at the beginning each
> time.  I am going to do it one more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t=
 be
> completely dry.  I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue when the little bi=
t of water
> remaining in the system freezes, but someone please let me know if I am
> wrong about this.  My 60 gal compressor is about 150 yards away from the
> water inlet, but I could make that work if necessary.
>
> Just in time, as the cold weather arrived today, with the first below
> I need to drain and winterize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t i=
magine I
> need to pay someone to do that job.  While I understand the =E2=80=98prop=
er=E2=80=99 way to
> do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that it =
is
> easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use the
> manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more
> water comes out.  (FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.). I
> compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a go=
od
> investment that would pay for itself on the first use:
55QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&linkCode=3Ddf0&hvadid=3D30=
9735714375&hvpos=3D1o1&hvnetw=3Dg&hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&hvpone=3D&h=
vptwo=3D&hvqmt=3D&hvdev=3Dc&hvdvcmdl=3D&hvlocint=3D&hvlocphy=3D9004590&hvta=
rgid=3Dpla-570302725618&psc=3D1.
> I could save around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting,
> but the shut off valve seems like a good addition.
>
> is worth to get air to the master drain valve.  Instead, I was planning o=
n
> just using my Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor.  (
> https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-=
68740.html).
>   My water pressure is regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around
> this should be sufficient.
>
> Am I missing anything?  Is there any good reason to pay a professional to
> do this job?  It seems like a no-brainer to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been cal=
led a
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail=
.com

--0000000000008ccd4c0596d6ddbd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Jim,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m=
 going to assume this is a similar thing to winterizing a swimming pool.=C2=
=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">For pools, the=
re are frequent warnings abounot using a compressor to blow the lines, or t=
o make sure to keep the PSI below 20.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"auto">It is frequently mentioned that a shop vac or ded=
icated blower tool is preferred.=C2=A0 The thought is that to remove the ai=
r high pressure is not the goal (and that high pressure and damage the PVC =
pipe and related fittings) but rather high volume.=C2=A0 And that a shop va=
c is the better way to achieve that.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">At least that&#39;s what the internet said.=C2=A0</div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I used my compressor, set to 1=
5 psi.=C2=A0 I guess we&#39;ll know in the spring how I did--it just hit 18=
 degrees here this morning.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">It sounds like your sprinkler system operates similarly.=C2=
=A0=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 8:24 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8e=
x;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:brea=
k-word;line-break:after-white-space">The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, =
so I thought I=E2=80=99d update this with some new information.=C2=A0 The a=
daptor was well made and=C2=A0the shut-off valve proved to be very handy; i=
t was well worth the $20.=C2=A0 It also came with excellent instructions th=
at mostly agreed with what was said here, with one exception: it said =E2=
=80=9Cavoid blowing compressed air through the PVB because doing so may dam=
age the BVP.=E2=80=9D =C2=A0I assume my system has a BVP in it, but can=E2=
=80=99t find it and just went ahead and blew it out from the basement as di=
scussed.<div><br></div><div>The instructions also recommend that the compre=
ssor should be &quot;as large as possible, preferably 15 gallons or larger.=
=E2=80=9D =C2=A0I think that is good advice, as my little HF 8 gallon compr=
essor was barely (I think) up to the task.=C2=A0 I initially set it to 50 l=
bs, the recommended pressure, but it was only putting out about 40 lbs duri=
ng use, so I turned that up to get it a little higher.=C2=A0 Even so, the c=
ompressor would fully extend the spray heads for the first 15 seconds or so=
, then just bubble water out with the head retracted.=C2=A0 The compressor =
ran constantly while the system was on, so I gave it a rest between blowing=
 out each zone.=C2=A0 I also blew out each zone at least three times, but t=
here was sill some spray at the beginning each time.=C2=A0 I am going to do=
 it one more time today, but know it won=E2=80=99t be completely dry.=C2=A0=
 I assume it won=E2=80=99t be an issue when the little bit of water remaini=
ng in the system freezes, but someone please let me know if I am wrong abou=
t this.=C2=A0 My 60 gal compressor is about 150 yards away from the water i=
nlet, but I could make that work if necessary.</div><div><br></div><div>Jus=
t in time, as the cold weather arrived today, with the first below freezing=
 temps expected tonight.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Jim<br>=
<div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Nov 5, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Jim St=
one &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"no=
referrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><div><div style=3D"w=
ord-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">I need to drain and winte=
rize my new sprinkler system and can=E2=80=99t imagine I need to pay someon=
e to do that job.=C2=A0 While I understand the =E2=80=98proper=E2=80=99 way=
 to do it is to manually open each valve, I was told a few years ago that i=
t is easier to just pressurize the system at the drain valve and then use t=
he manual function on the controller to run through each zone until no more=
 water comes out. =C2=A0(FWIW, my system is not that large and has 6 zones.=
). I was thinking about rigging something up that would allow me to attach =
my compressor and walk away, but found this on Amazon, which seems like a g=
ood investment that would pay for itself on the first use:=C2=A0<a href=3D"=
https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055=
QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055QAAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadi=
d=3D309735714375&amp;hvpos=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144=
962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=
=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hvlocphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&=
amp;psc=3D1" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Wi=
nterize-Sprinkler-Systems-Outdoor-Faucets/dp/B0055QAAIQ/ref=3Dasc_df_B0055Q=
AAIQ/?tag=3Dhyprod-20&amp;linkCode=3Ddf0&amp;hvadid=3D309735714375&amp;hvpo=
s=3D1o1&amp;hvnetw=3Dg&amp;hvrand=3D11131050794144962178&amp;hvpone=3D&amp;=
hvptwo=3D&amp;hvqmt=3D&amp;hvdev=3Dc&amp;hvdvcmdl=3D&amp;hvlocint=3D&amp;hv=
locphy=3D9004590&amp;hvtargid=3Dpla-570302725618&amp;psc=3D1</a>. I could s=
ave around $10 and just buy a hose to quick disconnect fitting, but the shu=
t off valve seems like a good addition.<div><br></div><div>I have fairly la=
rge compressor, but think it will be more trouble than it is worth to get a=
ir to the master drain valve.=C2=A0 Instead, I was planning on just using m=
y Harbor Freight 8 gal portable compressor. =C2=A0(<a href=3D"https://www.h=
arborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html" tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">https://www.harborfreight.com/8-gal-2-hp-=
125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html</a>). =C2=A0 My water pressure i=
s regulated to 60 lbs, so I figured something around this should be suffici=
ent.</div><div><br></div><div>Am I missing anything?=C2=A0 Is there any goo=
d reason to pay a professional to do this job?=C2=A0 It seems like a no-bra=
iner to me, but I=E2=80=99ve been called a no-brainer before.</div><div><br=
></div><div>Thanks,</div><div>Jim</div></div></div></blockquote></div><br><=
/div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">[email-masked]</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal=
@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000008ccd4c0596d6ddbd--

--===============6452121912598530414==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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[email-masked]

--===============6452121912598530414==--

---

From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2019 09:51:16 -0500

It sounds like you have it under control.  I 
assume you are talking about a backflow 
prevention valve?  BPV = PVB  = BVP?  Apparently, 
there are different types of these and there are 
different places they can be installed, depending 
on local codes and whether the original installer 
did it right.  I never worried about it and never 
had a problem.  The way my system is, I can't 
really think of another way.  Your experience 
with the large vs small compressor is the same as 
mine.  It is not the pressure, it is the volume 
of air that you need.  I found that the larger 
compressor was better, but the small one was good 
enough.  And yes, I never got mine 100% dry.  It 
was just drained enough that no water would 
freeze and expand enough to break anything.  I 
think you did fine.  I don't think a professional 
service company would do more than that.

-Steve

At 08:24 AM 11/8/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:
>The Amazon adaptor arrived yesterday, so I 
>thought I’d update this with some new 
>information.  The adaptor was well made and the 
>shut-off valve proved to be very handy; it was 
>well worth the $20.  It also came with excellent 
>instructions that mostly agreed with what was 
>said here, with one exception: it said “avoid 
>blowing compressed air through the PVB because 
>doing so may damage the BVP.”  I assume my 
>system has a BVP in it, but can’t find it and 
>just went ahead and blew it out from the basement as discussed.
>
>The instructions also recommend that the 
>compressor should be "as large as possible, 
>preferably 15 gallons or larger.”  I think 
>that is good advice, as my little HF 8 gallon 
>compressor was barely (I think) up to the 
>task.  I initially set it to 50 lbs, the 
>recommended pressure, but it was only putting 
>out about 40 lbs during use, so I turned that up 
>to get it a little higher.  Even so, the 
>compressor would fully extend the spray heads 
>for the first 15 seconds or so, then just bubble 
>water out with the head retracted.  The 
>compressor ran constantly while the system was 
>on, so I gave it a rest between blowing out each 
>zone.  I also blew out each zone at least three 
>times, but there was sill some spray at the 
>beginning each time.  I am going to do it one 
>more time today, but know it won’t be 
>completely dry.  I assume it won’t be an issue 
>when the little bit of water remaining in the 
>system freezes, but someone please let me know 
>if I am wrong about this.  My 60 gal compressor 
>is about 150 yards away from the water inlet, 
>but I could make that work if necessary.
>
>Just in time, as the cold weather arrived today, 
>with the first below freezing temps expected tonight.
>
>Cheers,
>Jim

[email-masked]

utox.team.net

---

From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2019 10:02:05 -0500

I am not sure if that is a good assumption.  A 
swimming pool is a closed system designed to 
operate at whatever pressure the pump 
produces.  A sprinkler system is designed to 
operate at the pressure of the water supply.  A 
sprinkler system may have hundreds of feet of 
tubing.  I used a shop vac to drain lines on a 
hot tub.  I can't imagine doing my whole sprinkler system that way.

I am certainly no authority on this.  I can just 
tell you what I did.  If I was going to do some 
more research, though, I would try to find 
something on how to winterize a sprinkler system, 
rather than a swimming pool.

-Steve

At 09:47 AM 11/8/2019, Scott Hall via Shop-talk wrote:
>Jim,
>
>I'm going to assume this is a similar thing to 
>winterizing a swimming pool.Â Â
>
>For pools, there are frequent warnings abounot 
>using a compressor to blow the lines, or to make 
>sure to keep the PSI below 20.Â Â
>
>It is frequently mentioned that a shop vac or 
>dedicated blower tool is preferred.Â  The 
>thought is that to remove the air high pressure 
>is not the goal (and that high pressure and 
>damage the PVC pipe and related fittings) but 
>rather high volume.Â  And that a shop vac is the better way to achieve that.Â
>
>At least that's what the internet said.Â
>
>I used my compressor, set to 15 psi.Â  I guess 
>we'll know in the spring how I did--it just hit 
>18 degrees here this morning.Â Â
>
>It sounds like your sprinkler system operates similarly.Â Â

[email-masked]

utox.team.net

---

From: Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 14:34:17 -0500

--===============1631480811695499565==

--0000000000004141c505969e85c6

If you have any slope in your yard, blow out from top to bottom zone.  I
also remove my backflow over winter.

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000004141c505969e85c6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div><br></div><div><div dir=3D"auto">If you have any slope in your yard, b=
low out from top to bottom zone.=C2=A0 I also remove my backflow over winte=
r.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr=
">On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>=
</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;b=
order-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-c=
olor:rgb(204,204,204)">You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve =
is down stream of the <br>
check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no <br>
resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for <=
br>
doing what we???re discussing.<br>
<br>
j<br>
<br>
-----Original Message----- <br>
From: Steven Trovato via Shop-talk<br>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 12:14 PM<br>
To: Shop Talk<br>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System<br>
<br>
I shouldn&#39;t really be speaking for John, but I<br>
think he is just saying that his backflow<br>
preventer has a convenient port that he uses to<br>
connect.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t think he is saying that the<br>
backflow preventer presents any other problem for<br>
the operation.=C2=A0 I am sure John will let us know if I am correct.<br>
<br>
-Steve T.<br>
<br>
At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk wrote:<br>
&gt;Thanks, guys.=C2=A0 I just bought the adapter; it will be here on Thurs=
day, well <br>
&gt;ahead of any freezing temperatures.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me ret=
hinking <br>
&gt;one aspect of my plan.=C2=A0 The system installer put in an outside hos=
e barb <br>
&gt;that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it made =
<br>
&gt;sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in th=
e <br>
&gt;basement.=C2=A0 I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system=
 and blow <br>
&gt;it out from there.=C2=A0 Unless there is a good reason not to do it tha=
t.=C2=A0 If <br>
&gt;there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the basem=
ent, <br>
&gt;might there be a problem blowing it out from there?<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;Jim<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
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</blockquote></div></div>

--0000000000004141c505969e85c6--

--===============1631480811695499565==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============1631480811695499565==--

---

From: Jim Stone via Shop-talk <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 12:55:16 -0500

--===============4232375839971193519==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_7FC483DC-0AD2-442B-A44B-E05857F9A550"

--Apple-Mail=_7FC483DC-0AD2-442B-A44B-E05857F9A550
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Good point!  There is about 30=E2=80=99 of back to front slope in my =
lot. Fortunately, and really just by accident, the zones pretty much run =
back to front and I blew them out in order the first few times, then in =
reverse order to be safe. I think I=E2=80=99ll be ok this year, but =
definitely something to keep in mind for the future!

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> If you have any slope in your yard, blow out from top to bottom zone.  =
I also remove my backflow over winter.
>=20
> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk =
> You are correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of =
the=20
> check valve on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no=20
> resistance or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient =
for=20
> -----Original Message-----=20
> >Thanks, guys.  I just bought the adapter; it will be here on =
Thursday, well=20
> >John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve does have me =
rethinking=20
> >one aspect of my plan.  The system installer put in an outside hose =
barb=20
> >that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had thought it =
made=20
> >sense to move ahead of that and start where the system originates in =
the=20
> >basement.  I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest of the system =
and blow=20
> >it out from there.  Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.  =
If=20
> >there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb and the =
basement,=20
> --=20
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>=20
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>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked] =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Good =
point! &nbsp;There is about 30=E2=80=99 of back to front slope in my =
lot. Fortunately, and really just by accident, the zones pretty much run =
back to front and I blew them out in order the first few times, then in =
reverse order to be safe. I think I=E2=80=99ll be ok this year, but =
definitely something to keep in mind for the future!<br =
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Ian McFetridge via Shop-talk =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">If you =
have any slope in your yard, blow out from top to bottom zone.&nbsp; I =
also remove my backflow over winter.</div><br class=3D""><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov =
5, 2019 at 2:20 PM john niolon via Shop-talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; =
padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204);">You are =
correct Steve.... the port on the BFP valve is down stream of the<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">check valve =
on the sprinkler side of the valve so the BFP offers no<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">resistance =
or blockage for the air at this point... really convenient for<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">doing what =
we???re discussing.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">j<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">-----Original Message-----<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">From: Steven =
Trovato via Shop-talk<br class=3D"">Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 =
12:14 PM<br class=3D"">To: Shop Talk<br class=3D"">Subject: Re: =
[Shop-talk] Winterizing Sprinkler System<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I =
shouldn't really be speaking for John, but I<br class=3D"">think he is =
just saying that his backflow<br class=3D"">preventer has a convenient =
port that he uses to<br class=3D"">connect.&nbsp; I don't think he is =
saying that the<br class=3D"">backflow preventer presents any other =
problem for<br class=3D"">the operation.&nbsp; I am sure John will let =
us know if I am correct.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">-Steve T.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">At 12:48 PM 11/5/2019, Jim Stone via Shop-talk =
wrote:<br class=3D"">&gt;Thanks, guys.&nbsp; I just bought the adapter; =
it will be here on Thursday, well<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">&gt;ahead of =
any freezing temperatures.<br class=3D"">&gt;<br =
class=3D"">&gt;John????????s comment about a backflow preventer valve =
does have me rethinking<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">&gt;one =
aspect of my plan.&nbsp; The system installer put in an outside hose =
barb<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;that he intended for blowing out the system, but I had =
thought it made<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;sense to move ahead of that and start where the system =
originates in the<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;basement.&nbsp; I can isolate the sprinkler from the rest =
of the system and blow<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"">&gt;it out =
from there.&nbsp; Unless there is a good reason not to do it that.&nbsp; =
If<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;there is a backflow preventer valve between the hose barb =
and the basement,<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
class=3D"">&gt;might there be a problem blowing it out from there?<br =
class=3D"">&gt;<br class=3D"">&gt;Jim<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">--<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br =
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