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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2018 20:49:09 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO THE
	HITCH
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge.

New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8" ball.

I get a 1 7/8" ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before 
installing on hitch.

Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.

It's behaving as if:

1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")

2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)

3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked 
1,000,000,000 times).

The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.

Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell 
out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).

Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. I 
have no idea what the hell's going on here.

Send help.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  1 20:49:22 2018
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From: Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, Scott Hall
 <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THEtHITCH
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THEtHITCH
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6737024183937203494==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_BYAPR06MB4182C7F6A8DFDC0EAA89F98CA8E80BYAPR06MB4182namp_"

--_000_BYAPR06MB4182C7F6A8DFDC0EAA89F98CA8E80BYAPR06MB4182namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Scott isn't there a screw adjustment for the tightness of the ball in the h=
ousing.  It's used to eliminate rattling, but could keep the latch from clo=
sing if too tight.

Jack
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Scott Hall =
<scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2018 9:49:09 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO TH=
E HITCH

Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge.

New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8" ball.

I get a 1 7/8" ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before
installing on hitch.

Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.

It's behaving as if:

1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")

2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)

3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked
1,000,000,000 times).

The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.

Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell
out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).

Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. I
have no idea what the hell's going on here.

Send help.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

s@live.com


--_000_BYAPR06MB4182C7F6A8DFDC0EAA89F98CA8E80BYAPR06MB4182namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
>
<meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Exchange Server">
<!-- converted from text --><style><!-- .EmailQuote { margin-left: 1pt; pad=
ding-left: 4pt; border-left: #800000 2px solid; } --></style>
</head>
<body>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
Scott isn't there a screw adjustment for the tightness of the ball in the h=
ousing.&nbsp; It's used to eliminate rattling, but could keep the latch fro=
m closing if too tight.<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
Jack</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" =
color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-=
talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Scott Hall &lt;scott.hall.pers=
onal@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 1, 2018 9:49:09 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER =
ONTO THE HITCH</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;">
<div class=3D"PlainText">Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this t=
hing with a sledge.<br>
<br>
New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8&quot; ball.<br>
<br>
I get a 1 7/8&quot; ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before =
<br>
installing on hitch.<br>
<br>
Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.<br>
<br>
It's behaving as if:<br>
<br>
1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8&quot;)<br>
<br>
2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)<br>
<br>
3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked <b=
r>
1,000,000,000 times).<br>
<br>
The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.<br>
<br>
Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell <br=
>
out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).<b=
r>
<br>
Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. I <br>
have no idea what the hell's going on here.<br>
<br>
Send help.<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.tea=
m.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/jibrooks@live.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com</a><br>
<br>
</div>
</span></font>
</body>
</html>

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--===============6737024183937203494==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============6737024183937203494==--

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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2018 21:39:30 -0500
References: <d1e70bb9-13d9-4530-f4e6-5de24399e6d1@gmail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THE HITCH
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From: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THE	HITCH
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THE	HITCH
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0732157914417870889==
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	boundary="_000_CO2PR20MB01402A5FCEB4FE66EE597BE7BBE80CO2PR20MB0140namp_"

--_000_CO2PR20MB01402A5FCEB4FE66EE597BE7BBE80CO2PR20MB0140namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sometimes even if the latch is open, I have had the locking piece hang up i=
n the locked position. If you reach up from underneath with your finger or =
a prybar you should be able to pop it down into the open position. If you s=
till cannot get it to work, I suggest laying under it on a creeper and actu=
ating the  latch and see what is going on in there while you do it.

Brian Warrick
Nampa, ID
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Scott Hall =
<scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2018 7:49 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO TH=
E HITCH

Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge.

New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8" ball.

I get a 1 7/8" ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before
installing on hitch.

Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.

It's behaving as if:

1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")

2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)

3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked
1,000,000,000 times).

The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.

Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell
out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).

Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. I
have no idea what the hell's going on here.

Send help.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

family@msn.com


--_000_CO2PR20MB01402A5FCEB4FE66EE597BE7BBE80CO2PR20MB0140namp_
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Sometimes even if the latch is open, I have had the locking piece hang up i=
n the locked position. If you reach up from underneath with your finger or =
a prybar you should be able to pop it down into the open position. If you s=
till cannot get it to work, I suggest
 laying under it on a creeper and actuating the&nbsp; latch and see what is=
 going on in there while you do it.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Brian Warrick</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Nampa, ID</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Scott Hall &lt;scott.hall.person=
al@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 1, 2018 7:49 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER =
ONTO THE HITCH</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;=
">
<div class=3D"PlainText">Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this t=
hing with a sledge.<br>
<br>
New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8&quot; ball.<br>
<br>
I get a 1 7/8&quot; ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before =
<br>
installing on hitch.<br>
<br>
Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.<br>
<br>
It's behaving as if:<br>
<br>
1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8&quot;)<br>
<br>
2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)<br>
<br>
3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked <b=
r>
1,000,000,000 times).<br>
<br>
The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.<br>
<br>
Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell <br=
>
out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).<b=
r>
<br>
Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. I <br>
have no idea what the hell's going on here.<br>
<br>
Send help.<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.tea=
m.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/maynerdfamily@msn.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/maynerdfamily@msn.com</a><b=
r>
<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0732157914417870889==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  1 21:56:33 2018
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 id BC/51-26511-7BDD2BB5; Mon, 01 Oct 2018 22:53:43 -0400
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2018 22:53:31 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <d1e70bb9-13d9-4530-f4e6-5de24399e6d1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THE HITCH
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is the trailer relatively level?  If the ball is far off the ground, 
so that the trailer is angled up to reach the ball, that can be a 
problem.  Is the ball in a mount that slips into a receiver on the 
vehicle?  If it is, you can get ball mounts that have a rise or drop 
to improve the angle.

-Steve

At 09:49 PM 10/1/2018, Scott Hall wrote:
>Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge.
>
>New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8" ball.
>
>I get a 1 7/8" ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver 
>before installing on hitch.
>
>Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.
>
>It's behaving as if:
>
>1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")
>
>2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)
>
>3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've 
>checked 1,000,000,000 times).
>
>The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.
>
>Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living 
>hell out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).
>
>Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. 
>I have no idea what the hell's going on here.
>
>Send help.


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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  1 22:46:40 2018
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Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 00:35:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <d1e70bb9-13d9-4530-f4e6-5de24399e6d1@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.20.16 (BSF 172 2016-09-29)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THE HITCH
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, 1 Oct 2018, Scott Hall wrote:
> 1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")

    As in, 'everything was marked 1 7/8' or as in 'I have measured 
everything and it actually is 1 7/8'.

    When something seems impossible and doesn't make sense, I start 
measuring.  I usually find that something isn't what I was sure it was. 
And we are talking HF here, so tolerances are what, +/- 1/4"?

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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References: <d1e70bb9-13d9-4530-f4e6-5de24399e6d1@gmail.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 10:07:31 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
 THE HITCH
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6506866980785917917==

--000000000000e8c8b805773f75f2

If you already fit the ball to the tongue, then it has to be the latch
piece is hung.

I'm going to go take a shower now...

On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 10:28 PM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge.
>
> New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8" ball.
>
> I get a 1 7/8" ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before
> installing on hitch.
>
> Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON.
>
> It's behaving as if:
>
> 1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")
>
> 2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)
>
> 3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked
> 1,000,000,000 times).
>
> The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it.
>
> Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell
> out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now).
>
> Everything here is new, clean, etc. I've hooked up trailers before. I
> have no idea what the hell's going on here.
>
> Send help.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000e8c8b805773f75f2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">If you already fit the ball to the tongue, then it has to=
 be the latch piece is hung.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I=
&#39;m going to go take a shower now...</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 10:28 PM Scott Hall &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0=
 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Need a little help, fe=
llas, before I attack this thing with a sledge.<br>
<br>
New H-F trailer. Requires a 1 7/8&quot; ball.<br>
<br>
I get a 1 7/8&quot; ball. Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before =
<br>
installing on hitch.<br>
<br>
Now it&#39;s all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON&#39;T GO ON.<br>
<br>
It&#39;s behaving as if:<br>
<br>
1) the ball is too big (it isn&#39;t, everything is 1 7/8&quot;)<br>
<br>
2) the latch is in the closed position (it&#39;s up)<br>
<br>
3) there&#39;s something inside the ball receiver (there&#39;s not--I&#39;v=
e checked <br>
1,000,000,000 times).<br>
<br>
The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won&#39;t drop over it.=
<br>
<br>
Is there a trick I don&#39;t know about, or can I beat the ever living hell=
 <br>
out of this thing (because that&#39;s exactly what I&#39;d like to do right=
 now).<br>
<br>
Everything here is new, clean, etc. I&#39;ve hooked up trailers before. I <=
br>
have no idea what the hell&#39;s going on here.<br>
<br>
Send help.<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a><br>
<br>
alk/fishplate@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000e8c8b805773f75f2--

--===============6506866980785917917==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============6506866980785917917==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  2 10:52:20 2018
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 <CAO8Q7CM77oLaKYWsCxdKB=07U+Ss4v8hOtBqtcSkuTi62V_hLA@mail.gmail.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>,
 Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
 N2DLZt7uP5ILoLuacIvEj7ofvvcfa9aZxDg+ckenexYOkfPxlgbrx+C4H8XagVlnn3KfERc90SDug5LPpqiWSCiDsmTXLxsgaPCUGqSxxewaOGnmrAtPW6Ui
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO GET A TRAILER ONTO
	THE HITCH
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2176491261576959931==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

------ZYYMNED9SCPPPFEH4JX0L64IJ5J1KY
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I agree=2E=20

Lift or jack it up off the ball and make sure the latch piece inside the t=
railer receiver is all the way down=2E Then move the tow vehicle forward by=
 1/2" or so, such that the ball rubs on the front of the receiver as you lo=
wer it back onto the ball=2E
-- Randall

On 2 October 2018 10:07:31 GMT-04:00, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail=2Ec=
om> wrote:
>If you already fit the ball to the tongue, then it has to be the latch
>piece is hung=2E
>
>I'm going to go take a shower now=2E=2E=2E
>
>On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 10:28 PM Scott Hall
><scott=2Ehall=2Epersonal@gmail=2Ecom>
>wrote:
>
>> Need a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge=2E
>>
>> New H-F trailer=2E Requires a 1 7/8" ball=2E
>>
>> I get a 1 7/8" ball=2E Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before
>> installing on hitch=2E
>>
>> Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON=2E
>>
>> It's behaving as if:
>>
>> 1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")
>>
>> 2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)
>>
>> 3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've
>checked
>> 1,000,000,000 times)=2E
>>
>> The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over
>it=2E
>>
>> Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living
>hell
>> out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right
>now)=2E
>>
>> Everything here is new, clean, etc=2E I've hooked up trailers before=2E=
 I
>> have no idea what the hell's going on here=2E
>>
>> Send help=2E
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox=2Eteam=2Enet
>> Donate: http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml
>> Suggested annual donation  $12=2E96
>> Archive: http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/shop-talk
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox=2Eteam=2Enet/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail=2Ec=
om
>>
>>

------ZYYMNED9SCPPPFEH4JX0L64IJ5J1KY
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body>I agree=2E <br><br>Lift or jack it up off the ball=
 and make sure the latch piece inside the trailer receiver is all the way d=
own=2E Then move the tow vehicle forward by 1/2" or so, such that the ball =
rubs on the front of the receiver as you lower it back onto the ball=2E<br>=
-- Randall<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 2 October 2018 10:07:31 GMT=
-04:00, Jeff Scarbrough &lt;fishplate@gmail=2Ecom&gt; wrote:<blockquote cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; border-left: 1px s=
olid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div dir=3D"auto">If you already fit the ball to the tongue, then it has t=
o be the latch piece is hung=2E<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto=
">I'm going to go take a shower now=2E=2E=2E</div></div><br><div class=3D"g=
mail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 10:28 PM Scott Hall &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:scott=2Ehall=2Epersonal@gmail=2Ecom">scott=2Ehall=2Eperson=
al@gmail=2Ecom</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0 0 0 =2E8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Nee=
d a little help, fellas, before I attack this thing with a sledge=2E<br>
<br>
New H-F trailer=2E Requires a 1 7/8" ball=2E<br>
<br>
I get a 1 7/8" ball=2E Test fit the ball into the hitch receiver before <b=
r>
installing on hitch=2E<br>
<br>
Now it's all put together and the F*C(ING THING WON'T GO ON=2E<br>
<br>
It's behaving as if:<br>
<br>
1) the ball is too big (it isn't, everything is 1 7/8")<br>
<br>
2) the latch is in the closed position (it's up)<br>
<br>
3) there's something inside the ball receiver (there's not--I've checked <=
br>
1,000,000,000 times)=2E<br>
<br>
The receiver is just sitting on top of the ball and won't drop over it=2E<=
br>
<br>
Is there a trick I don't know about, or can I beat the ever living hell <b=
r>
out of this thing (because that's exactly what I'd like to do right now)=
=2E<br>
<br>
Everything here is new, clean, etc=2E I've hooked up trailers before=2E I =
<br>
have no idea what the hell's going on here=2E<br>
<br>
Send help=2E<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox=2Eteam=2Enet" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">Shop-talk@autox=2Eteam=2Enet</a><br>
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml</a><b=
r>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"no=
referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/sh=
op-talk</a><br>
<br>
hop-talk/fishplate@gmail=2Ecom" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_bl=
ank">http://autox=2Eteam=2Enet/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail=2E=
com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div></body></html>
------ZYYMNED9SCPPPFEH4JX0L64IJ5J1KY--

--===============2176491261576959931==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============2176491261576959931==--

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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2018 12:21:50 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/52.9.1
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Ohh. My. God. Was: Re: Holy m#therf*cking ChrI$t HOW TO
 GET A TRAILER ONTO THE HITCH
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Okay. Long story short(er):

I ended up disassembling the whole receiver. If the latch is a 
two-pronged fork, at the belly of the "Y" was a blob of...weld spatter? 
Or just a bad casting. A blob of metal sticking up. Anyway, the latch 
would start to close on the ball then that blob would hit the ball and 
it couldn't close.

I disassembled it entirely with an eye towards just manually putting the 
latch under the ball then screwing it shut. It wouldn't screw shut. 
There's a spring and it's hard to do, but it was stopped entirely. 
Hanging upside down, in the rain and dirt, with my face right under a 
precariously-supported trailer tongue is stupid even to me so I took the 
whole hitch receiver off the trailer and disassembled. The blob was on 
the top-ish part of the latch where I couldn't see it through the rain, 
the fog on my glasses, and the frustration.

Removed the blob, re-assembled the whole thing. It works now. I sould 
probably go as H-F for a new latch. I bet the missing chrome there is 
going to rust.

I want to bash it with a hammer anyway. This whole thing is starting to 
sour me on H-F.

There's no ground spot for the wiring as the instructions. No sweat, 
I'll ground it to the clean metal of the receiver. The wiring plug 
doesn't fit my truck--it's a male plug, but it's got the 'female' rubber 
surrounding it. Circumcised plug--lights do not light. This is not a 
complex wiring system. And I hate electrical troubleshooting so I think 
I'm off to the store to buy a spool of wire and a new hitch plug and 
I'll just re-wire the whole thing myself.


On 10/2/2018 10:23 AM, Randall wrote:
> I agree.
>
> Lift or jack it up off the ball and make sure the latch piece inside 
> the trailer receiver is all the way down. Then move the tow vehicle 
> forward by 1/2" or so, such that the ball rubs on the front of the 
> receiver as you lower it back onto the ball.
> -- Randall
>
> On 2 October 2018 10:07:31 GMT-04:00, Jeff Scarbrough 
> <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     If you already fit the ball to the tongue, then it has to be the
>     latch piece is hung.
>
>     I'm going to go take a shower now...
>


--------------22BB3A01D74E8F94B1F2C339
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Okay. Long story short(er):</p>
    <p>I ended up disassembling the whole receiver. If the latch is a
      two-pronged fork, at the belly of the "Y" was a blob of...weld
      spatter? Or just a bad casting. A blob of metal sticking up.
      Anyway, the latch would start to close on the ball then that blob
      would hit the ball and it couldn't close.</p>
    <p>I disassembled it entirely with an eye towards just manually
      putting the latch under the ball then screwing it shut. It
      wouldn't screw shut. There's a spring and it's hard to do, but it
      was stopped entirely. Hanging upside down, in the rain and dirt,
      with my face right under a precariously-supported trailer tongue
      is stupid even to me so I took the whole hitch receiver off the
      trailer and disassembled. The blob was on the top-ish part of the
      latch where I couldn't see it through the rain, the fog on my
      glasses, and the frustration.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Removed the blob, re-assembled the whole thing. It works now. I
      sould probably go as H-F for a new latch. I bet the missing chrome
      there is going to rust.<br>
    </p>
    <p>I want to bash it with a hammer anyway. This whole thing is
      starting to sour me on H-F.<br>
    </p>
    <p>There's no ground spot for the wiring as the instructions. No
      sweat, I'll ground it to the clean metal of the receiver. The
      wiring plug doesn't fit my truck--it's a male plug, but it's got
      the 'female' rubber surrounding it. Circumcised plug--lights do
      not light. This is not a complex wiring system. And I hate
      electrical troubleshooting so I think I'm off to the store to buy
      a spool of wire and a new hitch plug and I'll just re-wire the
      whole thing myself.<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/2/2018 10:23 AM, Randall wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:115C2F96-4B48-4108-8FCF-16F9B9E75C6E@ca.rr.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      I agree. <br>
      <br>
      Lift or jack it up off the ball and make sure the latch piece
      inside the trailer receiver is all the way down. Then move the tow
      vehicle forward by 1/2" or so, such that the ball rubs on the
      front of the receiver as you lower it back onto the ball.<br>
      -- Randall<br>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">On 2 October 2018 10:07:31 GMT-04:00,
        Jeff Scarbrough <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:fishplate@gmail.com">&lt;fishplate@gmail.com&gt;</a> wrote:
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt
          0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);
          padding-left: 1ex;">
          <div dir="auto">If you already fit the ball to the tongue,
            then it has to be the latch piece is hung.
            <div dir="auto"><br>
            </div>
            <div dir="auto">I'm going to go take a shower now...<br>
            </div>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------22BB3A01D74E8F94B1F2C339--

--===============8025839633377632141==
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Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============8025839633377632141==--

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User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101
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References: <b8305eae-1e8e-68c0-9204-66980c5b14ac@earthlink.net>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2018 15:31:52 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2930022491501450990==

--000000000000c9299e0577a9658f

I've got the IR2131. I'm sure it's been superceded by now, but it's got
plenty of grunt and has never broken anything.

If I had to replace it I'd get another one.

>
>

--000000000000c9299e0577a9658f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve got the IR2131. I&#39;m sure it&#39;s been super=
ceded by now, but it&#39;s got plenty of grunt and has never broken anythin=
g.<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr">If I had=
 to replace it I&#39;d get another one.</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"=
>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div>

--000000000000c9299e0577a9658f--

--===============2930022491501450990==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============2930022491501450990==--

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Importance: normal
From: rustymetal <rustymetal@sbcglobal.net>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  7 16:34:34 2018
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Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2018 17:41:41 -0400
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <kjoL1y00x0NyJgq01joMQW>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8750240544011451068==
	boundary="=====================_31523028==.ALT"

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At 03:29 PM 10/7/2018, Brian Kemp wrote:

 >I'm shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much torque I
 >might need. I'm replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250 
ft-lbs, but can't
 >break hand torqued wheel lugs......

I have to agree with Scott Hall, I too have an Ingersol Rand gun.  It 
does a great
job.  For the few cases when it won't break a nut loose, I don't mind 
using a breaker bar to break the nut loose then use the gun to take 
the nut off the bolt/stud.

That being said the Earthquake guns from Harborfreight seem to have 
some pretty good reviews.

Don't forget most of these air guns have a knob that allows you to 
control how much torque it puts out.  So set it to one of the lower 
settings, then slowly increase
the setting till it breaks the nut loose.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




---
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<html>
<body>
<font size=3>At 03:29 PM 10/7/2018, Brian Kemp wrote:<br><br>
&gt;I'm shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much torque
I <br>
&gt;might need.  I'm replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250
ft-lbs, but can't <br>
&gt;break hand torqued wheel lugs......<br><br>
I have to agree with Scott Hall, I too have an Ingersol Rand gun.&nbsp;
It does a great<br>
job.&nbsp; For the few cases when it won't break a nut loose, I don't
mind using a breaker bar to break the nut loose then use the gun to take
the nut off the bolt/stud.<br><br>
That being said the Earthquake guns from Harborfreight seem to have some
pretty good reviews.<br><br>
Don't forget most of these air guns have a knob that allows you to
control how much torque it puts out.&nbsp; So set it to one of the lower
settings, then slowly increase <br>
the setting till it breaks the nut loose. <br><br>
John<br><br>
</font><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
<table style="border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;">
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		<td style="width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-free. <a href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link" target="_blank" style="color: #4453ea;">www.avast.com</a>
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</table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"> </a></div></body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  7 20:16:48 2018
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From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
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References: <97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2018 21:37:39 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1628345396638010311==

--000000000000f114a70577ae8136

You know anybody that used to be in the Navy?

My brother-in-law used to be a swabbie, and he's got this method of
gathering extension cords and hoses such that they never tangle. He hangs
some and just stacks the rest. It's the damnedest thing I've ever seen.
He's shown me how to do it, but I think it's something you can only really
habituate having been on a ship.

Scott

--000000000000f114a70577ae8136
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">You know anybody that used to be in the Navy?=C2=A0<div d=
ir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">My brother-in-law used to be a swab=
bie, and he&#39;s got this method of gathering extension cords and hoses su=
ch that they never tangle. He hangs some and just stacks the rest. It&#39;s=
 the damnedest thing I&#39;ve ever seen. He&#39;s shown me how to do it, bu=
t I think it&#39;s something you can only really habituate having been on a=
 ship.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div>=
</div>

--000000000000f114a70577ae8136--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  7 22:24:24 2018
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2018 23:38:54 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============8860126840874541075==
 boundary="------------5EA65D6AADEF320B66E0BC8D"
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--------------5EA65D6AADEF320B66E0BC8D
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How easily do you need to be able to access each individual hose once 
you've stored them?Â  You could store 150-300 ft of garden hose coiled 
inside a section of Sonotube or, if you swap your tires for winter 
tires, you could store them coiled inside the summer tires.


On 10/07/18 21:19, Arvid wrote:
> I have 6 garden hoses, 25 and 50 feet long, that I would like to store 
> in a reasonable space and cost effective fashion. I don't have the 
> wall space to hang them all. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas on 
> some type of container(s) that could be used to hold them and possibly 
> stack them on shelves?
>
> Thanks,
> Arvid
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy TabÂ® S
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
>


--------------5EA65D6AADEF320B66E0BC8D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">How easily do you need to be able to
      access each individual hose once you've stored them?Â  You could
      store 150-300 ft of garden hose coiled inside a section of
      Sonotube or, if you swap your tires for winter tires, you could
      store them coiled inside the summer tires.<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      On 10/07/18 21:19, Arvid wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>I have 6 garden hoses, 25 and 50 feet long, that I would like
        to store in a reasonable space and cost effective fashion. I
        don't have the wall space to hang them all. Anyone have any
        suggestions or ideas on some type of container(s) that could be
        used to hold them and possibly stack them on shelves?</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Thanks,</div>
      <div>ArvidÂ </div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div id="composer_signature">
        <div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757">Sent from my Samsung
          Galaxy TabÂ® S</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
  </body>
</html>

--------------5EA65D6AADEF320B66E0BC8D--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  7 23:01:45 2018
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References: <b8305eae-1e8e-68c0-9204-66980c5b14ac@earthlink.net>
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2018 13:45:23 -0700
To: bk13@earthlink.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8371944149347266552==

--0000000000001caaa10577a99cab

HI Brian,

I know it is more that you want to spend, but I have a IR Titanium--very
light and very powerful:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_dp_s_web_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Ingersoll+Rand

You can dial it back so that it will not over-power anything.

Your compressor will be fine as you will be running off the tank, not the
pump, unless you run the tank pressure to below 80 psi, or whatever you set
your regulator to.


On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 12:46 PM Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

> I'm shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much torque I
> might need.  I'm replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250 ft-lbs,
> but can't break hand torqued wheel lugs.  If I need to undo a TR6 crank
> bolt again, I'll borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a breaker bar
> like last time.
>
> The primary use will be wheel lugs.  Occasional use will be brake jobs
> and related car work.
>
> Per the sticker on the compressor specs are 5.5 SCFM at 90psi, 5HP, 26
> gal, 135psi max.  This is Husky Pro about 15 years old, so I recognize
> the HP rating is likely optimistic.  The motor requirement is 15A @
> 120V, which would indicate a more realistic HP rating in the 2HP range.
>
> I'm not after continuous duty.  At most, it would be 5 wheel lugs then a
> break.
>
> I'm thinking the 1000 ft-lb models are overkill and could potentially do
> damage snapping an old TR6 or GT6 bolt.  I'd rather have the tool not
> take off the nut/bolt than snap it.
>
> The new Husky ones at Home Depot look nice, but I don't see any feedback
> on the 800 ft-lb model and only one on the 650 ft-lb model.  If I do go
> bigger, Lowes has a nice 1000 ft-lb model with a 95% recommended rating.
>
> Any feedback is appreciated.  Since this isn't really necessary, I'm
> looking at about the $100 range.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com
>
>

--0000000000001caaa10577a99cab
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">HI Brian,<div><br></div><div>I know it is=
 more that you want to spend, but I have a IR Titanium--very light and very=
 powerful:</div><div><a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=3Dbl_dp_s_web_=
0?ie=3DUTF8&amp;search-alias=3Daps&amp;field-keywords=3DIngersoll+Rand">htt=
ps://www.amazon.com/s/ref=3Dbl_dp_s_web_0?ie=3DUTF8&amp;search-alias=3Daps&=
amp;field-keywords=3DIngersoll+Rand</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>You ca=
n dial it back so that it will not over-power anything.</div><div><br></div=
><div>Your compressor will be fine as you will be running off the tank, not=
 the pump, unless you run the tank pressure to below 80 psi, or whatever yo=
u set your regulator to.</div><div><br></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"=
gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 12:46 PM Brian Kemp &l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:bk13@earthlink.net">bk13@earthlink.net</a>&gt; wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I&#39;m shopping for a new air impac=
t wrench and wondered how much torque I <br>
might need.=C2=A0 I&#39;m replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250 ft=
-lbs, <br>
but can&#39;t break hand torqued wheel lugs.=C2=A0 If I need to undo a TR6 =
crank <br>
bolt again, I&#39;ll borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a breaker ba=
r <br>
like last time.<br>
<br>
The primary use will be wheel lugs.=C2=A0 Occasional use will be brake jobs=
 <br>
and related car work.<br>
<br>
Per the sticker on the compressor specs are 5.5 SCFM at 90psi, 5HP, 26 <br>
gal, 135psi max.=C2=A0 This is Husky Pro about 15 years old, so I recognize=
 <br>
the HP rating is likely optimistic.=C2=A0 The motor requirement is 15A @ <b=
r>
120V, which would indicate a more realistic HP rating in the 2HP range.<br>
<br>
I&#39;m not after continuous duty.=C2=A0 At most, it would be 5 wheel lugs =
then a <br>
break.<br>
<br>
I&#39;m thinking the 1000 ft-lb models are overkill and could potentially d=
o <br>
damage snapping an old TR6 or GT6 bolt.=C2=A0 I&#39;d rather have the tool =
not <br>
take off the nut/bolt than snap it.<br>
<br>
The new Husky ones at Home Depot look nice, but I don&#39;t see any feedbac=
k <br>
on the 800 ft-lb model and only one on the 650 ft-lb model.=C2=A0 If I do g=
o <br>
bigger, Lowes has a nice 1000 ft-lb model with a 95% recommended rating.<br=
>
<br>
Any feedback is appreciated.=C2=A0 Since this isn&#39;t really necessary, I=
&#39;m <br>
looking at about the $100 range.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@live.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000001caaa10577a99cab--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  7 23:18:35 2018
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References: <b8305eae-1e8e-68c0-9204-66980c5b14ac@earthlink.net>
 <CAG1pxgb0_=kX57KDxsG3bmEfTM4wBXnDcpwA6Ay71SOFUMPtUg@mail.gmail.com>
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2018 13:48:43 -0700
To: bk13@earthlink.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1714656518321634430==

--000000000000feaf3d0577a9a7e9

Hi Scott,

I have the same model and am 100% happy with it. Like you, I would replace
it with the same or updated model. The new model designations are cheaper
and more powerful, so I assume they are Chinese-build...

On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 1:45 PM old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com> wrote:

> HI Brian,
>
> I know it is more that you want to spend, but I have a IR Titanium--very
> light and very powerful:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_dp_s_web_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Ingersoll+Rand
>
> You can dial it back so that it will not over-power anything.
>
> Your compressor will be fine as you will be running off the tank, not the
> pump, unless you run the tank pressure to below 80 psi, or whatever you set
> your regulator to.
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 12:46 PM Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much torque I
>> might need.  I'm replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250 ft-lbs,
>> but can't break hand torqued wheel lugs.  If I need to undo a TR6 crank
>> bolt again, I'll borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a breaker bar
>> like last time.
>>
>> The primary use will be wheel lugs.  Occasional use will be brake jobs
>> and related car work.
>>
>> Per the sticker on the compressor specs are 5.5 SCFM at 90psi, 5HP, 26
>> gal, 135psi max.  This is Husky Pro about 15 years old, so I recognize
>> the HP rating is likely optimistic.  The motor requirement is 15A @
>> 120V, which would indicate a more realistic HP rating in the 2HP range.
>>
>> I'm not after continuous duty.  At most, it would be 5 wheel lugs then a
>> break.
>>
>> I'm thinking the 1000 ft-lb models are overkill and could potentially do
>> damage snapping an old TR6 or GT6 bolt.  I'd rather have the tool not
>> take off the nut/bolt than snap it.
>>
>> The new Husky ones at Home Depot look nice, but I don't see any feedback
>> on the 800 ft-lb model and only one on the 650 ft-lb model.  If I do go
>> bigger, Lowes has a nice 1000 ft-lb model with a 95% recommended rating.
>>
>> Any feedback is appreciated.  Since this isn't really necessary, I'm
>> looking at about the $100 range.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brian
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com
>>
>>

--000000000000feaf3d0577a9a7e9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Scott,=C2=A0<div><br></div><div>I have the same model a=
nd am 100% happy with it. Like you, I would replace it with the same or upd=
ated model. The new model designations are cheaper and more powerful, so I =
assume they are Chinese-build...</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 1:45 PM old dirtbeard &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1=
px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">HI Brian,=
<div><br></div><div>I know it is more that you want to spend, but I have a =
IR Titanium--very light and very powerful:</div><div><a href=3D"https://www=
.amazon.com/s/ref=3Dbl_dp_s_web_0?ie=3DUTF8&amp;search-alias=3Daps&amp;fiel=
d-keywords=3DIngersoll+Rand" target=3D"_blank">https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=
=3Dbl_dp_s_web_0?ie=3DUTF8&amp;search-alias=3Daps&amp;field-keywords=3DInge=
rsoll+Rand</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>You can dial it back so that it=
 will not over-power anything.</div><div><br></div><div>Your compressor wil=
l be fine as you will be running off the tank, not the pump, unless you run=
 the tank pressure to below 80 psi, or whatever you set your regulator to.<=
/div><div><br></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 12:46 PM Brian Kemp &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bk13@=
earthlink.net" target=3D"_blank">bk13@earthlink.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1=
px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I&#39;m shopping for a new air impact wrenc=
h and wondered how much torque I <br>
might need.=C2=A0 I&#39;m replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250 ft=
-lbs, <br>
but can&#39;t break hand torqued wheel lugs.=C2=A0 If I need to undo a TR6 =
crank <br>
bolt again, I&#39;ll borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a breaker ba=
r <br>
like last time.<br>
<br>
The primary use will be wheel lugs.=C2=A0 Occasional use will be brake jobs=
 <br>
and related car work.<br>
<br>
Per the sticker on the compressor specs are 5.5 SCFM at 90psi, 5HP, 26 <br>
gal, 135psi max.=C2=A0 This is Husky Pro about 15 years old, so I recognize=
 <br>
the HP rating is likely optimistic.=C2=A0 The motor requirement is 15A @ <b=
r>
120V, which would indicate a more realistic HP rating in the 2HP range.<br>
<br>
I&#39;m not after continuous duty.=C2=A0 At most, it would be 5 wheel lugs =
then a <br>
break.<br>
<br>
I&#39;m thinking the 1000 ft-lb models are overkill and could potentially d=
o <br>
damage snapping an old TR6 or GT6 bolt.=C2=A0 I&#39;d rather have the tool =
not <br>
take off the nut/bolt than snap it.<br>
<br>
The new Husky ones at Home Depot look nice, but I don&#39;t see any feedbac=
k <br>
on the 800 ft-lb model and only one on the 650 ft-lb model.=C2=A0 If I do g=
o <br>
bigger, Lowes has a nice 1000 ft-lb model with a 95% recommended rating.<br=
>
<br>
Any feedback is appreciated.=C2=A0 Since this isn&#39;t really necessary, I=
&#39;m <br>
looking at about the $100 range.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@live.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000feaf3d0577a9a7e9--

--===============1714656518321634430==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============1714656518321634430==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  7 23:35:21 2018
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References: <b8305eae-1e8e-68c0-9204-66980c5b14ac@earthlink.net>
 <20181007211556.089292588B47@autox.team.net>
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2018 17:32:34 -0400
To: rustymetal <rustymetal@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6653957717553713063==

--000000000000cbd8160577aa3e88
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Second the IR gun, mine is about 10 years old and only with some periodic
oil continues to be an excellent gun.  I like the dial with four levels of
power, which I believe is a needle valve that adjusts the pressure to the
gun.  On sensitive parts I=E2=80=99ll put it on the low setting and then di=
al it up
as needed to break loose fasteners (to your point about breaking things).
It=E2=80=99s a lot easier than lowering the line pressure, although that wo=
uld work
too.

BEst,
Ian

On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 5:16 PM rustymetal <rustymetal@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I swear by Air Cat. I bought a 1/2" drive 500 lbs reverse torque recently=
.
> Little to no vibration or kick back.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
> Date: 10/7/18 12:29 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
>
> I'm shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much torque I
> might need.  I'm replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250 ft-lbs,
> but can't break hand torqued wheel lugs.  If I need to undo a TR6 crank
> bolt again, I'll borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a breaker bar
> like last time.
>
> The primary use will be wheel lugs.  Occasional use will be brake jobs
> and related car work.
>
> Per the sticker on the compressor specs are 5.5 SCFM at 90psi, 5HP, 26
> gal, 135psi max.  This is Husky Pro about 15 years old, so I recognize
> the HP rating is likely optimistic.  The motor requirement is 15A @
> 120V, which would indicate a more realistic HP rating in the 2HP range.
>
> I'm not after continuous duty.  At most, it would be 5 wheel lugs then a
> break.
>
> I'm thinking the 1000 ft-lb models are overkill and could potentially do
> damage snapping an old TR6 or GT6 bolt.  I'd rather have the tool not
> take off the nut/bolt than snap it.
>
> The new Husky ones at Home Depot look nice, but I don't see any feedback
> on the 800 ft-lb model and only one on the 650 ft-lb model.  If I do go
> bigger, Lowes has a nice 1000 ft-lb model with a 95% recommended rating.
>
> Any feedback is appreciated.  Since this isn't really necessary, I'm
> looking at about the $100 range.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rustymetal@sbcglobal.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org
>
>

--000000000000cbd8160577aa3e88
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div><div dir=3D"auto">Second the IR gun, mine is about 10 years old and on=
ly with some periodic oil continues to be an excellent gun.=C2=A0 I like th=
e dial with four levels of power, which I believe is a needle valve that ad=
justs the pressure to the gun.=C2=A0 On sensitive parts I=E2=80=99ll put it=
 on the low setting and then dial it up as needed to break loose fasteners =
(to your point about breaking things).=C2=A0 It=E2=80=99s a lot easier than=
 lowering the line pressure, although that would work too.</div></div><div =
dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">BEst,</div><div dir=3D"auto">Ian</=
div><div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Oct 7, 201=
8 at 5:16 PM rustymetal &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:rustymetal@sbcglobal.net">rus=
tymetal@sbcglobal.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
"><div><div>I swear by Air Cat. I bought a 1/2&quot; drive 500 lbs reverse =
torque recently. Little to no vibration or kick back.=C2=A0</div><div><br><=
/div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div id=3D"m_-5428447141818330929compose=
r_signature"><div style=3D"font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir=3D"auto">Sent f=
rom my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&amp;T LTE smartphone</div></div></div><div><d=
iv><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:100%;color:#000000"><div>-------- Orig=
inal message --------</div><div>From: Brian Kemp &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bk13=
@earthlink.net" target=3D"_blank">bk13@earthlink.net</a>&gt; </div><div>Dat=
e: 10/7/18  12:29 PM  (GMT-08:00) </div><div>To: Shop Talk &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" target=3D"_blank">shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net<=
/a>&gt; </div><div>Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torq=
ue? </div><div><br></div></div>I&#39;m shopping for a new air impact wrench=
 and wondered how much torque I <br>might need.=C2=A0 I&#39;m replacing a H=
arbor Freight one that claims 250 ft-lbs, <br>but can&#39;t break hand torq=
ued wheel lugs.=C2=A0 If I need to undo a TR6 crank <br>bolt again, I&#39;l=
l borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a breaker bar <br>like last tim=
e.<br><br>The primary use will be wheel lugs.=C2=A0 Occasional use will be =
brake jobs <br>and related car work.<br><br>Per the sticker on the compress=
or specs are 5.5 SCFM at 90psi, 5HP, 26 <br>gal, 135psi max.=C2=A0 This is =
Husky Pro about 15 years old, so I recognize <br>the HP rating is likely op=
timistic.=C2=A0 The motor requirement is 15A @ <br>120V, which would indica=
te a more realistic HP rating in the 2HP range.<br><br>I&#39;m not after co=
ntinuous duty.=C2=A0 At most, it would be 5 wheel lugs then a <br>break.<br=
><br>I&#39;m thinking the 1000 ft-lb models are overkill and could potentia=
lly do <br>damage snapping an old TR6 or GT6 bolt.=C2=A0 I&#39;d rather hav=
e the tool not <br>take off the nut/bolt than snap it.<br><br>The new Husky=
 ones at Home Depot look nice, but I don&#39;t see any feedback <br>on the =
800 ft-lb model and only one on the 650 ft-lb model.=C2=A0 If I do go <br>b=
igger, Lowes has a nice 1000 ft-lb model with a 95% recommended rating.<br>=
<br>Any feedback is appreciated.=C2=A0 Since this isn&#39;t really necessar=
y, I&#39;m <br>looking at about the $100 range.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Brian=
<br>_______________________________________________<br><br><a href=3D"mailt=
o:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><=
br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96=
<br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" target=3D"=
_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br><br></div><div>Unsub=
scribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/r=
ustymetal@sbcglobal.net" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/op=
tions/shop-talk/rustymetal@sbcglobal.net</a><br><br></div>_________________=
______________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://=
autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 11:15:50 +0200 (CEST)
From: Mark Watson <watsonm05@comcast.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <b8305eae-1e8e-68c0-9204-66980c5b14ac@earthlink.net>
 <20181007211556.089292588B47@autox.team.net>
 <CAFnfnRW4M_4bp_kg8NKHkYL4jghHzi1pU-oCe_gfsAQHAnKG+g@mail.gmail.com>
Importance: Medium
 sfFO2l6sWtqWp53e072ayD5A+awnNQWEjGFpRFCBIzU4NI1k1l2bJgRtuzo7qzk/5N8heU5aFB1OZ868vkQqPmvzuubsZMTMv2c=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Though I don't own one, my favorite YouTube channel is South Main Auto Repa=
ir, and Eric O (the owner and mechanic) swears by his Astro Nano that's mor=
e in your price range: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1822-Nano-Impact-Wrench=
/dp/B00VTQIURE - used it on camera lots of times.  He also swears by the HF=
 Earthquake and he seems quite surprised  by that.  He's been using one sin=
ce Thanksgiving last year and it's still going strong.


Mark

>     Second the IR gun, mine is about 10 years old and only with some peri=
odic oil continues to be an excellent gun.  I like the dial with four level=
s of power, which I believe is a needle valve that adjusts the pressure to =
the gun.  On sensitive parts I=E2=80=99ll put it on the low setting and the=
n dial it up as needed to break loose fasteners (to your point about breaki=
ng things).  It=E2=80=99s a lot easier than lowering the line pressure, alt=
hough that would work too.
>=20
>     BEst,
>     Ian
>=20
>     On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 5:16 PM rustymetal < rustymetal@sbcglobal.net =
mailto:rustymetal@sbcglobal.net > wrote:
>=20
>         > >         I swear by Air Cat. I bought a 1/2" drive 500 lbs rev=
erse torque recently. Little to no vibration or kick back.=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >         Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
> >=20
> >         -------- Original message --------
> >         From: Brian Kemp < bk13@earthlink.net mailto:bk13@earthlink.net=
 >
> >         Date: 10/7/18 12:29 PM (GMT-08:00)
> >         To: Shop Talk < shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net mailto:shop-talk@Autox=
.Team.Net >
> >         Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?
> >=20
> >         I'm shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much =
torque I
> >         might need.  I'm replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 250=
 ft-lbs,
> >         but can't break hand torqued wheel lugs.  If I need to undo a T=
R6 crank
> >         bolt again, I'll borrow a bigger impact wrench or just use a br=
eaker bar
> >         like last time.
> >=20
> >         The primary use will be wheel lugs.  Occasional use will be bra=
ke jobs
> >         and related car work.
> >=20
> >         <snip>
> >         Any feedback is appreciated.  Since this isn't really necessary=
, I'm
> >         looking at about the $100 range.
> >=20
> >         Thanks,
> >=20
> >         Brian
> >         _______________________________________________
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >     >=20
>=20

------=_Part_66376_1696412795.1538990150355
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Though I don&#39;t own one, my favorite =
YouTube channel is&#160;<span class=3D"style-scope ytd-shelf-renderer">Sout=
h Main Auto Repair,&#160;</span>and Eric O (the owner and mechanic) swears =
by his Astro Nano that&#39;s more in your price range:&#160;<a href=3D"http=
s://www.amazon.com/Astro-1822-Nano-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00VTQIURE">https://www=
.amazon.com/Astro-1822-Nano-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00VTQIURE</a>&#160;- used it =
on camera lots of times.&#160; He also swears by the HF Earthquake and he s=
eems quite surprised&#160; by that.&#160; He&#39;s been using one since Tha=
nksgiving last year and it&#39;s still going strong.</p><p style=3D"font-si=
ze: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51)=
;"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans=
-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Mark</p><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><di=
v dir=3D"auto">Second the IR gun, mine is about 10 years old and only with =
some periodic oil continues to be an excellent gun.&#160; I like the dial w=
ith four levels of power, which I believe is a needle valve that adjusts th=
e pressure to the gun.&#160; On sensitive parts I&#8217;ll put it on the lo=
w setting and then dial it up as needed to break loose fasteners (to your p=
oint about breaking things).&#160; It&#8217;s a lot easier than lowering th=
e line pressure, although that would work too.</div></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">BEst,</div><div dir=3D"auto">Ian</div><div><br=
><div class=3D"ox-825d70d20c-gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Oct 7, 2=
018 at 5:16 PM rustymetal &#60; <a href=3D"mailto:rustymetal@sbcglobal.net"=
>rustymetal@sbcglobal.net</a>&#62; wrote: <br></div><blockquote><div><div>I=
 swear by Air Cat. I bought a 1/2&#34; drive 500 lbs reverse torque recentl=
y. Little to no vibration or kick back.&#160;</div><div><br></div><div><br>=
</div><div><br></div><div style=3D"font-size: 85%; color: #575757;" dir=3D"=
auto">Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&#38;T LTE smartphone</div></div><=
div><div><br></div><div style=3D"font-size: 100%; color: #000000;"><div>---=
----- Original message --------</div><div>From: Brian Kemp &#60; <a href=3D=
"mailto:bk13@earthlink.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">bk13@earthli=
nk.net</a>&#62;</div><div>Date: 10/7/18 12:29 PM (GMT-08:00)</div><div>To: =
Shop Talk &#60; <a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" target=3D"_blan=
k" rel=3D"noopener">shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net</a>&#62;</div><div>Subject: [S=
hop-talk] Air Impact Wrenches - how much torque?</div><div><br></div></div>=
I&#39;m shopping for a new air impact wrench and wondered how much torque I=
 <br>might need.&#160; I&#39;m replacing a Harbor Freight one that claims 2=
50 ft-lbs, <br>but can&#39;t break hand torqued wheel lugs.&#160; If I need=
 to undo a TR6 crank <br>bolt again, I&#39;ll borrow a bigger impact wrench=
 or just use a breaker bar <br>like last time. <br> <br>The primary use wil=
l be wheel lugs.&#160; Occasional use will be brake jobs <br>and related ca=
r work. <br> <br>&#60;snip&#62;<br>Any feedback is appreciated.&#160; Since=
 this isn&#39;t really necessary, I&#39;m <br>looking at about the $100 ran=
ge. <br> <br>Thanks, <br> <br>Brian <br>___________________________________=
____________ <br> <br><br></div></blockquote></div></div> <br></blockquote>=
</body></html>
=20
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============3865328128867038163==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  8 06:22:57 2018
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 07:41:01 -0400
References: <97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============6405163071708309954==
 boundary="Apple-Mail=_10949547-689F-4301-869F-6E3206586E8D"


--Apple-Mail=_10949547-689F-4301-869F-6E3206586E8D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Old plastic trash cans cut to the depth you need for stacking?

5 gal buckets from a big box store/driveway sealer/pickles from a deli?

jim

> On Oct 7, 2018, at 9:19 PM, Arvid <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
>=20
> I have 6 garden hoses, 25 and 50 feet long, that I would like to store =
in a reasonable space and cost effective fashion. I don't have the wall =
space to hang them all. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas on some =
type of container(s) that could be used to hold them and possibly stack =
them on shelves?
>=20
> Thanks,
> Arvid=20
>=20
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab=C2=AE S
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>=20


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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Old plastic trash cans cut to the depth you need for =
stacking?<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">5 gal =
buckets from a big box store/driveway sealer/pickles from a deli?<br =
class=3D""><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">jim</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""><div><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Oct 7, 2018, at 9:19 PM, =
Arvid &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:arvidj@visi.com" =
class=3D"">arvidj@visi.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8" =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">
   =20
<div class=3D"">I have 6 garden hoses, 25 and 50 feet long, that I would =
like to store in a reasonable space and cost effective fashion. I don't =
have the wall space to hang them all. Anyone have any suggestions or =
ideas on some type of container(s) that could be used to hold them and =
possibly stack them on shelves?</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thanks,</div><div =
class=3D"">Arvid&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
id=3D"composer_signature" class=3D""><div =
style=3D"font-size:85%;color:#575757" class=3D"">Sent from my Samsung =
Galaxy Tab=C2=AE S</div></div><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div>_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></div></body></html>=

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--===============6405163071708309954==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============6405163071708309954==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  8 14:26:53 2018
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 16:02:23 -0400
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8374813747166423006==

--000000000000ca19cc0577bd1940

In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i
ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,
and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread
remaining).

He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. The
tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I got
it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat, it
was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it
about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.

I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't
replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I
realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're
pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely
my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent
and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a
buyer to tow his purchase away...

Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad
things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?

Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its in
western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and my
self-employment keeping me busy enough.

Thanks for all your sage wisdom!

-Peter

--000000000000ca19cc0577bd1940
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceas=
ed father-in-law, i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They&#39;re =
bagged and unmounted, and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (abo=
ut 50% tread remaining).</div><div><br></div>He also had a 1969 Ford F100 p=
ickup that has been sitting for a while. The tires are pretty beat and one =
will not hold air. They&#39;re 235/75/R15. I got it running while I was out=
 there last week, but with the one rear flat, it was tough to evaluate it m=
uch. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it about 100 feet, so the clut=
ch, first and reverse all worked fine.<div><br></div><div>I realize they&#3=
9;re not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn&#39;t replace the ti=
res currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I realize they&#3=
9;re slightly different in width and circumference, but they&#39;re pretty =
doggone close. This isn&#39;t going to be used as a hauler. More likely my =
mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent and=
 inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a buyer =
to tow his purchase away...</div><div><br></div><div>Aside from aesthetics =
and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad things could potentially=
 come from putting these tires on the truck?</div><div><br></div><div>Yes, =
i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its in wester=
n Colorado, I&#39;m in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and my se=
lf-employment keeping me busy enough.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for a=
ll your sage wisdom!</div><div><br></div><div>-Peter</div></div>

--000000000000ca19cc0577bd1940--

--===============8374813747166423006==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2018 17:42:41 -0400
References: <CAJ8HLP9Qr0oCfi9LHoD4tZYxhOGhz+d9F0hOeHN1D615tJ8x0Q@mail.gmail.com>
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 jnew@hazelden.ca
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter,

This is a fantastic tire and wheel size calculator/comparator:
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

Just plug in the values from the two tire sizes and it will give you dimensions and recommendations for the second set of tires. According to the site, the second set of tires will be almost 1" wider and about 1" greater in diameter than the tires on the car; there is also a warning that the larger tires may affect handling.

Whatever you do, look at the date codes on whichever tires you put on the truck to make sure that they're not too old to safely use.

John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada


On Monday, October 8, 2018 4:02:23 PM EDT Peter Murray wrote:
> In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i
> ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,
> and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread
> remaining).
> 
> He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. The
> tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I got
> it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat, it
> was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it
> about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.
> 
> I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't
> replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I
> realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're
> pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely
> my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent
> and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a
> buyer to tow his purchase away...
> 
> Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad
> things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
> 
> Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its in
> western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and my
> self-employment keeping me busy enough.
> 
> Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
> 
> -Peter
> 




_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>, Shop-Talk List
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Thread-Index: AQHUX0XW8Umtw4lh4kuFz1vvgJC38qUV4cnq
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 21:46:31 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5903610475315043630==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CO2PR20MB0140F33681C34CB6269ED20DBBE60CO2PR20MB0140namp_"

--_000_CO2PR20MB0140F33681C34CB6269ED20DBBE60CO2PR20MB0140namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I can't see a downside to installing those tires on a vehicle that is going=
 to be sold anyway. I would do it.

Brian
Nampa, ID
________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Peter Murra=
y <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 2:02 PM
To: Shop-Talk List
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question

In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i ra=
n across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted, and =
appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread remaining).

He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. The =
tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I got =
it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat, it =
was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it a=
bout 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.

I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't repla=
ce the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I realiz=
e they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're pretty=
 doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely my mot=
her-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent and in=
flated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a buyer to =
tow his purchase away...

Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad th=
ings could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?

Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its in w=
estern Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and my s=
elf-employment keeping me busy enough.

Thanks for all your sage wisdom!

-Peter

--_000_CO2PR20MB0140F33681C34CB6269ED20DBBE60CO2PR20MB0140namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
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</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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I can't see a downside to installing those tires on a vehicle that is going=
 to be sold anyway. I would do it.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Brian</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Nampa, ID</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Peter Murray &lt;peterwmurray@gm=
ail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 8, 2018 2:02 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop-Talk List<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law,=
 i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,=
 and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread remainin=
g).</div>
<div><br>
</div>
He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. The =
tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I got =
it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat, it =
was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically
 it appeared solid. I drove it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and rev=
erse all worked fine.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't =
replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I r=
ealize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're p=
retty doggone close. This isn't
 going to be used as a hauler. More likely my mother-in-law will sell it (s=
igh), and I figure that having four decent and inflated tires gives a bette=
r negotiating position than requiring a buyer to tow his purchase away...</=
div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what B=
ad things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?</di=
v>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its=
 in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and=
 my self-employment keeping me busy enough.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks for all your sage wisdom!</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-Peter</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============5903610475315043630==--

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From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 18:35:28 -0400
To: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>, 
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 4:33 PM Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
>

> Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?


If they are more than six years old, you could mount them, but warn
the buyer they are not for long distance, high-speed driving.

If they are more than ten years old, get a cheap set of rim protectors
instead.  Nobody needs hte liability...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
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Thread-Topic: LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
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Subject: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60CY4PR13MB1302namp_"

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Yes, this is not a shop talk type of post but some of Y'all (sorry but I ju=
st got back from bloody Memphis) are better on the computer side of things =
than I used to be.

I have a laptop that is old, tired, and seriously beat on. Thankfully the p=
int that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the "Z". (I have=
 to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny this..... NOT) Anyway, I've n=
ot done any windows updates in too long because I seriously don't think thi=
s computer can handle the updates.

Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU @2.20 =
GH w 4Gigs of ram that shows "service pack 1"

Finally here's the question:

What can I expect if I just click the "update" button for these long overdu=
e updates.

cheers
happily home from sketchy memphis
tim

--_000_CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60CY4PR13MB1302namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font=
-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir=3D"ltr">
Yes, this is not a&nbsp;<b style=3D"text-decoration-line: underline;">shop =
talk</b>&nbsp;type of post&nbsp;but some of Y'all (sorry but I&nbsp;just go=
t back from bloody Memphis) are better on the computer side of things&nbsp;=
than I used to be.&nbsp;
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have a laptop that is old, tired, and&nbsp;seriously beat on. Thankf=
ully the pint that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the &q=
uot;<span>Z&quot;. (I have to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny thi=
s..... NOT) Anyway,&nbsp;</span>I've not done any windows
 updates in too long because I seriously&nbsp;don't think this computer can=
 handle the updates.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU @=
2.20 GH w 4Gigs of ram&nbsp;that shows &quot;service pack 1&quot;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Finally here's the question:&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>What can I expect if I just click the &quot;update&quot; button for th=
ese long overdue updates.&nbsp;<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>cheers</div>
<div>happily home from sketchy memphis</div>
<div>tim</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60CY4PR13MB1302namp_--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============5542612167828230653==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  8 21:32:09 2018
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 22:37:54 -0400
References: <CAJ8HLP9Qr0oCfi9LHoD4tZYxhOGhz+d9F0hOeHN1D615tJ8x0Q@mail.gmail.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still, someone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be told.

jim

> On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted, and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread remaining).
> 
> He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat, it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.
> 
> I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a buyer to tow his purchase away...
> 
> Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
> 
> Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and my self-employment keeping me busy enough.
> 
> Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
> 
> -Peter
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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 id 1g9k2b-0009fi-L4; Tue, 09 Oct 2018 00:54:41 -0400
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 21:53:28 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/52.9.1
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I have a Win 7 laptop that had not been used in over a year, so had a 
similar issue.

My first updates would be your anti-virus.

I then ran Windows Update at least 10 times to get it caught up.  It 
would do some updates then need a restart.  It then found another batch 
and needed another restart....

I'd just plug it in and start running updates.  Check every once in a 
while.  Perhaps turn off the power saving/sleep so it stays on.

After all these updates, then I'd check your browser if not IE, Adobe 
Flash, and Reader if you have them installed.

Brian

On 10/8/2018 5:57 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Yes, this is not a *shop talk* type of post but some of Y'all (sorry 
> but I just got back from bloody Memphis) are better on the computer 
> side of things than I used to be.
>
> I have a laptop that is old, tired, and seriously beat on. Thankfully 
> the pint that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the 
> "Z". (I have to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny this..... 
> NOT) Anyway, I've not done any windows updates in too long because I 
> seriously don't think this computer can handle the updates.
>
> Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU 
> @2.20 GH w 4Gigs of ram that shows "service pack 1"
>
> Finally here's the question:
>
> What can I expect if I just click the "update" button for these long 
> overdue updates.
>
> cheers
> happily home from sketchy memphis
> tim
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>


--------------0E5B773362E543C1BD4288C6
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      charset=windows-1252">
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  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    I have a Win 7 laptop that had not been used in over a year, so had
    a similar issue.  <br>
    <br>
    My first updates would be your anti-virus.<br>
    <br>
    I then ran Windows Update at least 10 times to get it caught up.  It
    would do some updates then need a restart.  It then found another
    batch and needed another restart....<br>
    <br>
    I'd just plug it in and start running updates.  Check every once in
    a while.  Perhaps turn off the power saving/sleep so it stays on.<br>
    <br>
    After all these updates, then I'd check your browser if not IE,
    Adobe Flash, and Reader if you have them installed. <br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/8/2018 5:57 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} --></style>
      <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper"
style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;"
        dir="ltr">
        Yes, this is not a <b style="text-decoration-line: underline;">shop
          talk</b> type of post but some of Y'all (sorry but I just got
        back from bloody Memphis) are better on the computer side of
        things than I used to be. 
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I have a laptop that is old, tired, and seriously beat on.
          Thankfully the pint that I spilled on it some many years ago
          only took out the "<span>Z". (I have to copy and paste one
            from a word doc..funny this..... NOT) Anyway, </span>I've
          not done any windows updates in too long because I
          seriously don't think this computer can handle the updates. </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655,
          Pentium CPU @2.20 GH w 4Gigs of ram that shows "service pack
          1"</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Finally here's the question: </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>What can I expect if I just click the "update" button for
          these long overdue updates. <br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>cheers</div>
        <div>happily home from sketchy memphis</div>
        <div>tim</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============4527256081762895418==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  9 05:01:15 2018
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Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 10:03:21 +0000 (UTC)
From: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
To: Shop  Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 zFOPh71J38qg+2k2ibP2Obk72wggSspPPDw6B5uJdh8wYQzpZo+4JBlCj7KPMGF2Q4DokQaDMclsnA==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0317451025433637756==
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Fine to update, should be no problems with updating Windows 7 in itself. Th=
e one issue you may face is that there have been some updates without which=
 the update process hangs - I think Microsoft made some changes to improve =
security from their end which require updates to the Windows Update compone=
nts on the PC. You may be lucky and already have them, but otherwise the be=
st thing is to apply btjose updates manually. Google 'windows 7 updates slo=
w' - there are two or three updates to get manually from Microsoft Update C=
atalog website.


Neil




Sent from Outlook for Android







On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 3:41 AM +0100, "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.co=
m> wrote:

















Yes, this is not a=C2=A0shop talk=C2=A0type of post=C2=A0but some of Y'all =
(sorry but I=C2=A0just got back from bloody Memphis) are better on the comp=
uter side of things=C2=A0than I used to be.=C2=A0



I have a laptop that is old, tired, and=C2=A0seriously beat on. Thankfully =
the pint that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the "Z". (I=
 have to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny this..... NOT) Anyway,=
=C2=A0I've not done any windows
 updates in too long because I seriously=C2=A0don't think this computer can=
 handle the updates.=C2=A0



Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU @2.20 =
GH w 4Gigs of ram=C2=A0that shows "service pack 1"



Finally here's the question:=C2=A0



What can I expect if I just click the "update" button for these long overdu=
e updates.=C2=A0





cheers
happily home from sketchy memphis
tim









------=_Part_11718_1415897637.1539079401245
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html><head></head><body><div dir="auto" style="direction: ltr; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; ">Fine to update, should be no problems with updating Windows 7 in itself. The one issue you may face is that there have been some updates without which the update process hangs - I think Microsoft made some changes to improve security from their end which require updates to the Windows Update components on the PC. You may be lucky and already have them, but otherwise the best thing is to apply btjose updates manually. Google 'windows 7 updates slow' - there are two or three updates to get manually from Microsoft Update Catalog website.<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto" style="direction: ltr; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; ">Neil<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto" style="direction: ltr; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; "><div dir="auto" style="direction: ltr; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; ">Sent from <u>Outlook</u><a href="https://aka.ms/ghei36"> for Android</a></div>
<br>
</div>
<br><br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 3:41 AM +0100, "Tim ." <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a href="mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target="_blank">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<br>

<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">




<div dir="3D&quot;ltr&quot;">


<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<style type="text/css" style="display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} --></style>


<div id="divtagdefaultwrapper" style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir="ltr">
Yes, this is not a&nbsp;<b style="text-decoration-line: underline;">shop talk</b>&nbsp;type of post&nbsp;but some of Y'all (sorry but I&nbsp;just got back from bloody Memphis) are better on the computer side of things&nbsp;than I used to be.&nbsp;
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have a laptop that is old, tired, and&nbsp;seriously beat on. Thankfully the pint that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the "<span>Z". (I have to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny this..... NOT) Anyway,&nbsp;</span>I've not done any windows
 updates in too long because I seriously&nbsp;don't think this computer can handle the updates.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU @2.20 GH w 4Gigs of ram&nbsp;that shows "service pack 1"</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Finally here's the question:&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>What can I expect if I just click the "update" button for these long overdue updates.&nbsp;<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>cheers</div>
<div>happily home from sketchy memphis</div>
<div>tim</div>
</div>



</div>

</blockquote>
</div>
</body></html>
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To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 08:54:36 -0400
 10/09/2018 08:54:51 AM,
 Serialize complete at 10/09/2018 08:54:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============3562538689483156994==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0046EA9D85258321_=

Tim asks about updating after a while.

I find that it is normally not an issue.  It may take MANY (read as ten or 
more)  "Update Windows" to get all the updates.

Windows does a good job of make sure the app will 'run' on the machine. 
How fast, is the only question.

With that said, with a computer that beat, I would make a restore point 
first, then run them all, making a restore point after each one.

I bet they will all run and everything will be fine.

YMMV


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0046EA9D85258321_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Tim asks about updating after a while.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I find that it is normally not an issue.
&nbsp;It may take MANY (read as ten or more) &nbsp;&quot;Update Windows&quot;
to get all the updates.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Windows does a good job of make sure
the app will 'run' on the machine. &nbsp;How fast, is the only question.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">With that said, with a computer that
beat, I would make a restore point first, then run them all, making a restore
point after each one.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I bet they will all run and everything
will be fine.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">YMMV</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 0046EA9D85258321_=--

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 <CC94176B-5DF2-4F79-9A89-44E33EDCC1AF@groupwbench.org>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 09:42:34 -0400
To: Shop-Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4828940057479983270==

--000000000000cdcc950577cbe8b3

All-

The passenger tires with which I'm considering replacing the current truck
tires are smaller in every dimension, though not by a great deal, so I
don't think they'd rub. My main objective is to safely get this truck sold
for maximum value for my mother-in-law.

I'll absolutely make clear to whoever buys it that the tires are not for
long-term use, that they're not the right size, and that part of their
refurbishment of the truck (besides lube/oil/filter, coolant flush, a
thorough brake check and a good cleaning of the carb) should be replacement
of the tires with something more appropriate. I would make a terrible used
car salesman, as I won't hide known flaws.

If any of you are interested, let me know! It is practically rust-free,
having lived its entire existence in the arid Southwest.

Thanks very much for your thoughts.  I really appreciate the sage (and
often hard-fought) wisdom shared with me via this list!

-Peter


On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the
> fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still,
> someone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be
> told.
>
> jim
>
> > On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i
> ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,
> and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread
> remaining).
> >
> > He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while.
> The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I
> got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat,
> it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove
> it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.
> >
> > I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't
> replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I
> realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're
> pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely
> my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent
> and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a
> buyer to tow his purchase away...
> >
> > Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad
> things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
> >
> > Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its
> in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and
> my self-employment keeping me busy enough.
> >
> > Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
> >
> > -Peter
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000cdcc950577cbe8b3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">All-<div><br></div><div>The passenger tires with which I&#=
39;m considering replacing the current truck tires are smaller in every dim=
ension, though not by a great deal, so I don&#39;t think they&#39;d rub. My=
 main objective is to safely get this truck sold for maximum value for my m=
other-in-law.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I&#39;ll absolutely make clear=
 to whoever buys it that the tires are not for long-term use, that they&#39=
;re not the right size, and that part of their refurbishment of the truck (=
besides lube/oil/filter, coolant flush, a thorough brake check and a good c=
leaning of the carb) should be replacement of the tires with something more=
 appropriate. I would make a terrible used car salesman, as I won&#39;t hid=
e known flaws.</div><div><br></div><div>If any of you are interested, let m=
e know! It is practically rust-free, having lived its entire existence in t=
he arid Southwest.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks very much for your=
 thoughts.=C2=A0=C2=A0I really appreciate the sage (and often hard-fought) =
wisdom shared with me via this list!</div><div><br></div><div>-Peter=C2=A0<=
br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"lt=
r">On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:james=
f@groupwbench.org">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquo=
te class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc so=
lid;padding-left:1ex">The only downside I can think of is that the new tire=
s might hit the fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering w=
heel. Still, someone buying this should expect issues like this and just ne=
eds to be told.<br>
<br>
jim<br>
<br>
&gt; On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:peterwm=
urray@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">peterwmurray@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
>
&gt; <br>
&gt; In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law,=
 i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They&#39;re bagged and unmoun=
ted, and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread rema=
ining).<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while.=
 The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They&#39;re 235/75/R1=
5. I got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear =
flat, it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I d=
rove it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.<b=
r>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I realize they&#39;re not quite the same size, but I wonder if I could=
n&#39;t replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted ti=
res. I realize they&#39;re slightly different in width and circumference, b=
ut they&#39;re pretty doggone close. This isn&#39;t going to be used as a h=
auler. More likely my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that =
having four decent and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position t=
han requiring a buyer to tow his purchase away...<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what B=
ad things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its=
 in western Colorado, I&#39;m in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children=
 and my self-employment keeping me busy enough.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks for all your sage wisdom!<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; -Peter<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-tal=
k@autox.team.net</a><br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96<br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"no=
referrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/s=
hop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org</a><br>
&gt; <br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/peterwmurray@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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 Tue, 09 Oct 2018 07:31:16 -0700 (PDT)
References: <CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <OF57A61A80.743876C6-ON85258321.0046AFB1-85258321.0046EAB7@mail.megageek.com>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 10:31:19 -0400
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8379063124487141203==

--00000000000027a09c0577cc97a1

I just imaged a workstation this morning with Windows 7 Enterprise - last
patches were applied in 2012. It took several hours (50Mbit internet) and
about 3 reboots before it was up-to-date.

-Peter

On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 9:52 AM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Tim asks about updating after a while.
>
> I find that it is normally not an issue.  It may take MANY (read as ten or
> more)  "Update Windows" to get all the updates.
>
> Windows does a good job of make sure the app will 'run' on the machine.
> How fast, is the only question.
>
> With that said, with a computer that beat, I would make a restore point
> first, then run them all, making a restore point after each one.
>
> I bet they will all run and everything will be fine.
>
> YMMV
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I just imaged a workstation this morning with Windows 7 En=
terprise - last patches were applied in 2012. It took several hours (50Mbit=
 internet) and about 3 reboots before it was up-to-date.=C2=A0<div><br></di=
v><div>-Peter</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On=
 Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 9:52 AM &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@=
megageek.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><font s=
ize=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Tim asks about updating after a while.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I find that it is normally not an =
issue.
=C2=A0It may take MANY (read as ten or more) =C2=A0&quot;Update Windows&quo=
t;
to get all the updates.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Windows does a good job of make su=
re
the app will &#39;run&#39; on the machine.=C2=A0 How fast, is the only ques=
tion.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">With that said, with a computer th=
at
beat, I would make a restore point first, then run them all, making a resto=
re
point after each one.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I bet they will all run and everyt=
hing
will be fine.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">YMMV</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/peterwmurray@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: "'Shop-Talk List'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAJ8HLP9Qr0oCfi9LHoD4tZYxhOGhz+d9F0hOeHN1D615tJ8x0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CC94176B-5DF2-4F79-9A89-44E33EDCC1AF@groupwbench.org>
 <CAJ8HLP8i33ZhQsz1LZvb_aXHr1nXPz1RS-JjKbuEtj4VmQwLYg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 11:49:17 -0400
Thread-Index: AQK7Oo2S98PmtxAxc5t0hXRkNhFn6wJ8FtNjAog3tGajITeSIA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Peter =E2=80=93 any pictures?  Price?

=20

Al Fuller

=20

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Peter Murray
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2018 9:43 AM
To: Shop-Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question

=20

All-

=20

The passenger tires with which I'm considering replacing the current =
truck tires are smaller in every dimension, though not by a great deal, =
so I don't think they'd rub. My main objective is to safely get this =
truck sold for maximum value for my mother-in-law.=20

=20

I'll absolutely make clear to whoever buys it that the tires are not for =
long-term use, that they're not the right size, and that part of their =
refurbishment of the truck (besides lube/oil/filter, coolant flush, a =
thorough brake check and a good cleaning of the carb) should be =
replacement of the tires with something more appropriate. I would make a =
terrible used car salesman, as I won't hide known flaws.

=20

If any of you are interested, let me know! It is practically rust-free, =
having lived its entire existence in the arid Southwest.=20

=20

Thanks very much for your thoughts.  I really appreciate the sage (and =
often hard-fought) wisdom shared with me via this list!

=20

-Peter=20

=20

=20

On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org =

The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the =
fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still, =
someone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be =
told.

jim

> On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com =
>=20
> In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, =
i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and =
unmounted, and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% =
tread remaining).
>=20
> He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. =
The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. =
I got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear =
flat, it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. =
I drove it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked =
fine.
>=20
> I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't =
replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. =
I realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but =
they're pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. =
More likely my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that =
having four decent and inflated tires gives a better negotiating =
position than requiring a buyer to tow his purchase away...
>=20
> Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what =
Bad things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
>=20
> Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its =
in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children =
and my self-employment keeping me busy enough.
>=20
> Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
>=20
> -Peter
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>=20

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com


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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Peter =E2=80=93 any pictures?=C2=A0 Price?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Al Fuller</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'85 Rx-7</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Peter Murray<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, October 9, 2018 9:43 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> Shop-Talk List =
&lt;Shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Tire =
size/capability question<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>All-<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>The passenger tires with which I'm considering =
replacing the current truck tires are smaller in every dimension, though =
not by a great deal, so I don't think they'd rub. My main objective is =
to safely get this truck sold for maximum value for my =
mother-in-law.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I'll absolutely make clear to whoever buys it that the =
tires are not for long-term use, that they're not the right size, and =
that part of their refurbishment of the truck (besides lube/oil/filter, =
coolant flush, a thorough brake check and a good cleaning of the carb) =
should be replacement of the tires with something more appropriate. I =
would make a terrible used car salesman, as I won't hide known =
flaws.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>If any of you are interested, let me know! It is =
practically rust-free, having lived its entire existence in the arid =
Southwest.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks very much for your thoughts.&nbsp;&nbsp;I =
really appreciate the sage (and often hard-fought) wisdom shared with me =
via this list!<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>-Peter&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>The only downside I can think of is that =
the new tires might hit the fenders, either immediately or while turning =
the steering wheel. Still, someone buying this should expect issues like =
this and just needs to be told.<br><br>jim<br><br>&gt; On Oct 8, 2018, =
at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:peterwmurray@gmail.com" =
target=3D"_blank">peterwmurray@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; =
In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i =
ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted, =
and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread =
remaining).<br>&gt; <br>&gt; He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that =
has been sitting for a while. The tires are pretty beat and one will not =
hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I got it running while I was out there =
last week, but with the one rear flat, it was tough to evaluate it much. =
Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it about 100 feet, so the =
clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; I realize =
they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't replace the =
tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I realize =
they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're =
pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More =
likely my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having =
four decent and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than =
requiring a buyer to tow his purchase away...<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Aside =
from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad =
things could potentially come from putting these tires on the =
truck?<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it =
not 2000 miles away (its in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) =
and my 3 young children and my self-employment keeping me busy =
enough.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Thanks for all your sage wisdom!<br>&gt; =
<br>&gt; -Peter<br>&gt; =
_______________________________________________<br>&gt; <br>&gt; <a =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>&gt; Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>&gt; Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>&gt; Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>&gt; =
<br>&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbenc=
h.org" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@=
groupwbench.org</a><br>&gt; =
<br><br>_______________________________________________<br><br><a =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
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annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>Archive: <a =
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urray@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></body></html>
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 <CC94176B-5DF2-4F79-9A89-44E33EDCC1AF@groupwbench.org>
 <CAJ8HLP8i33ZhQsz1LZvb_aXHr1nXPz1RS-JjKbuEtj4VmQwLYg@mail.gmail.com>
 please include it with any abuse report
 jnew@hazelden.ca
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I see now that I mixed up the two sets of tires. So the second set would be about 3/4" narrower and 2" smaller in diameter than what's on the truck now.

John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada

On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 9:42:34 AM EDT Peter Murray wrote:
> All-
> 
> The passenger tires with which I'm considering replacing the current truck
> tires are smaller in every dimension, though not by a great deal, so I
> don't think they'd rub. My main objective is to safely get this truck sold
> for maximum value for my mother-in-law.
> 
> I'll absolutely make clear to whoever buys it that the tires are not for
> long-term use, that they're not the right size, and that part of their
> refurbishment of the truck (besides lube/oil/filter, coolant flush, a
> thorough brake check and a good cleaning of the carb) should be replacement
> of the tires with something more appropriate. I would make a terrible used
> car salesman, as I won't hide known flaws.
> 
> If any of you are interested, let me know! It is practically rust-free,
> having lived its entire existence in the arid Southwest.
> 
> Thanks very much for your thoughts.  I really appreciate the sage (and
> often hard-fought) wisdom shared with me via this list!
> 
> -Peter
> 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
> > The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the
> > fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still,
> > someone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be
> > told.
> >
> > jim
> >
> > > On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i
> > ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,
> > and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread
> > remaining).
> > >
> > > He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while.
> > The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I
> > got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat,
> > it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove
> > it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.
> > >
> > > I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't
> > replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I
> > realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're
> > pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely
> > my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent
> > and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a
> > buyer to tow his purchase away...
> > >
> > > Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad
> > things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
> > >
> > > Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its
> > in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and
> > my self-employment keeping me busy enough.
> > >
> > > Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
> > >
> > > -Peter
> > > _______________________________________________
> > >
> > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
> >
> >
> 




_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Thread-Index: AQHUX2DafVEGN08BDkOifQauqNTffqUXTuXr
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 19:33:19 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============9179219907729616443==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY4PR13MB13022118B8BD30D25DDA1181B4E70CY4PR13MB1302namp_"

--_000_CY4PR13MB13022118B8BD30D25DDA1181B4E70CY4PR13MB1302namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks for the replies. So far the updates have not had any ill effect.


As for my virus scanner, it is always kept up to date.




________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 7:57 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES

Yes, this is not a shop talk type of post but some of Y'all (sorry but I ju=
st got back from bloody Memphis) are better on the computer side of things =
than I used to be.

I have a laptop that is old, tired, and seriously beat on. Thankfully the p=
int that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the "Z". (I have=
 to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny this..... NOT) Anyway, I've n=
ot done any windows updates in too long because I seriously don't think thi=
s computer can handle the updates.

Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU @2.20 =
GH w 4Gigs of ram that shows "service pack 1"

Finally here's the question:

What can I expect if I just click the "update" button for these long overdu=
e updates.

cheers
happily home from sketchy memphis
tim

--_000_CY4PR13MB13022118B8BD30D25DDA1181B4E70CY4PR13MB1302namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font=
-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir=3D"ltr">
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><span title=3D"" class=3D"">Thank=
s</span> for the replies. So far the updates have not had any ill effect.&n=
bsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">As for my virus scanner, it is al=
ways kept up to date.&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 8, 2018 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES</=
font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir=3D"ltr" style=3D"font-size:12pt; col=
or:#000000; font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif">
Yes, this is not a&nbsp;<b style=3D"">shop talk</b>&nbsp;type of post&nbsp;=
but some of Y'all (sorry but I&nbsp;just got back from bloody Memphis) are =
better on the computer side of things&nbsp;than I used to be.&nbsp;
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have a laptop that is old, tired, and&nbsp;seriously beat on. Thankf=
ully the pint that I spilled on it some many years ago only took out the &q=
uot;<span>Z&quot;. (I have to copy and paste one from a word doc..funny thi=
s..... NOT) Anyway,&nbsp;</span>I've not done any windows
 updates in too long because I seriously&nbsp;don't think this computer can=
 handle the updates.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Win7 home premium currently being run on a Toshiba C655, Pentium CPU @=
2.20 GH w 4Gigs of ram&nbsp;that shows &quot;service pack 1&quot;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Finally here's the question:&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>What can I expect if I just click the &quot;update&quot; button for th=
ese long overdue updates.&nbsp;<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>cheers</div>
<div>happily home from sketchy memphis</div>
<div>tim</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_CY4PR13MB13022118B8BD30D25DDA1181B4E70CY4PR13MB1302namp_--

--===============9179219907729616443==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============9179219907729616443==--

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References: <CAJ8HLP9Qr0oCfi9LHoD4tZYxhOGhz+d9F0hOeHN1D615tJ8x0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CC94176B-5DF2-4F79-9A89-44E33EDCC1AF@groupwbench.org>
 <CAJ8HLP8i33ZhQsz1LZvb_aXHr1nXPz1RS-JjKbuEtj4VmQwLYg@mail.gmail.com>
 <08b101d45fe7$a3efe8c0$ebcfba40$@bighealey.org>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 20:10:08 -0400
To: Shop-Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5983867960150442708==

--000000000000385ad30577d4aef4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I know this is shop-talk, not pickup-sales-talk, but pictures are here
<http://pete.net/photos/index.php?/category/3> and I'm trying to get $4000
for it. Happy to answer any questions about it. Email me directly if you'd
like more information or to discuss further.

Thanks again for the suggestions and items to think about!

-Peter

On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 1:25 PM Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org> wrote:

> Peter =E2=80=93 any pictures?  Price?
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> '65 BJ-8
>
> '85 Rx-7
>
>
>
> *From:* Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Peter Murray
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 9, 2018 9:43 AM
> *To:* Shop-Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
>
>
>
> All-
>
>
>
> The passenger tires with which I'm considering replacing the current truc=
k
> tires are smaller in every dimension, though not by a great deal, so I
> don't think they'd rub. My main objective is to safely get this truck sol=
d
> for maximum value for my mother-in-law.
>
>
>
> I'll absolutely make clear to whoever buys it that the tires are not for
> long-term use, that they're not the right size, and that part of their
> refurbishment of the truck (besides lube/oil/filter, coolant flush, a
> thorough brake check and a good cleaning of the carb) should be replaceme=
nt
> of the tires with something more appropriate. I would make a terrible use=
d
> car salesman, as I won't hide known flaws.
>
>
>
> If any of you are interested, let me know! It is practically rust-free,
> having lived its entire existence in the arid Southwest.
>
>
>
> Thanks very much for your thoughts.  I really appreciate the sage (and
> often hard-fought) wisdom shared with me via this list!
>
>
>
> -Peter
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
> wrote:
>
> The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the
> fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still,
> someone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be
> told.
>
> jim
>
> > On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote=
:
> >
> > In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, =
i
> ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,
> and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread
> remaining).
> >
> > He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while.
> The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. =
I
> got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear fla=
t,
> it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove
> it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.
> >
> > I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't
> replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I
> realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they'r=
e
> pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likel=
y
> my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decen=
t
> and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a
> buyer to tow his purchase away...
> >
> > Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Ba=
d
> things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
> >
> > Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its
> in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children an=
d
> my self-employment keeping me busy enough.
> >
> > Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
> >
> > -Peter
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000385ad30577d4aef4
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I know this is shop-talk, not pickup-sales-talk, but pictu=
res are=C2=A0<a href=3D"http://pete.net/photos/index.php?/category/3">here<=
/a>=C2=A0and I&#39;m trying to get $4000 for it. Happy to answer any questi=
ons about it. Email me directly if you&#39;d like more information or to di=
scuss further.<div><br></div><div>Thanks again for the suggestions and item=
s to think about!</div><div><br></div><div>-Peter</div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 1:25 PM Al Fuller =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:al@bighealey.org">al@bighealey.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br>=
</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"blue" vlin=
k=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_-8975293929911077880WordSection1"><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,=
sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Peter =E2=80=93 any pictures?=C2=A0 Price?<u></u>=
<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;fo=
nt-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u=
></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fam=
ily:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Al Fuller</span><span sty=
le=3D"color:black"><u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span st=
yle=3D"color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><=
span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif;c=
olor:#1f497d">&#39;65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D"color:black"><u></u><u></u>=
</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fami=
ly:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">&#39;85 Rx-7</span><span s=
tyle=3D"color:black"><u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif;color:=
#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span sty=
le=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">From:</s=
pan></b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,san=
s-serif"> Shop-talk [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.=
net" target=3D"_blank">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf O=
f </b>Peter Murray<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, October 9, 2018 9:43 AM<br><b>T=
o:</b> Shop-Talk List &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" targe=
t=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-=
talk] Tire size/capability question<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">All-<u></u><u><=
/u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal">The passenger tires with which I&#39;m considering replac=
ing the current truck tires are smaller in every dimension, though not by a=
 great deal, so I don&#39;t think they&#39;d rub. My main objective is to s=
afely get this truck sold for maximum value for my mother-in-law.=C2=A0<u><=
/u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></d=
iv><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I&#39;ll absolutely make clear to whoever bu=
ys it that the tires are not for long-term use, that they&#39;re not the ri=
ght size, and that part of their refurbishment of the truck (besides lube/o=
il/filter, coolant flush, a thorough brake check and a good cleaning of the=
 carb) should be replacement of the tires with something more appropriate. =
I would make a terrible used car salesman, as I won&#39;t hide known flaws.=
<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p=
></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">If any of you are interested, let me kno=
w! It is practically rust-free, having lived its entire existence in the ar=
id Southwest.=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thanks very much for =
your thoughts.=C2=A0=C2=A0I really appreciate the sage (and often hard-foug=
ht) wisdom shared with me via this list!<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=
-Peter=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=
=A0<u></u></p></div></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><d=
iv><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 11:44 PM Jim Franklin=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" target=3D"_blank">jamesf@gro=
upwbench.org</a>&gt; wrote:<u></u><u></u></p></div><blockquote style=3D"bor=
der:none;border-left:solid #cccccc 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-l=
eft:4.8pt;margin-right:0in"><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:1=
2.0pt">The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the=
 fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still, so=
meone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be told.=
<br><br>jim<br><br>&gt; On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:peterwmurray@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">peterwmurray@gmail.co=
m</a>&gt; wrote:<br>&gt; <br>&gt; In cleaning out the garage/shop of my rec=
ently-deceased father-in-law, i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. =
They&#39;re bagged and unmounted, and appear to be in similar and reasonabl=
e shape (about 50% tread remaining).<br>&gt; <br>&gt; He also had a 1969 Fo=
rd F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while. The tires are pretty beat=
 and one will not hold air. They&#39;re 235/75/R15. I got it running while =
I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat, it was tough to eval=
uate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove it about 100 feet, so=
 the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; I realize =
they&#39;re not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn&#39;t replace=
 the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I realize =
they&#39;re slightly different in width and circumference, but they&#39;re =
pretty doggone close. This isn&#39;t going to be used as a hauler. More lik=
ely my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four dec=
ent and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a=
 buyer to tow his purchase away...<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Aside from aesthetics a=
nd (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad things could potentially =
come from putting these tires on the truck?<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Yes, i would p=
robably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its in western Colorad=
o, I&#39;m in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and my self-employ=
ment keeping me busy enough.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Thanks for all your sage wisd=
om!<br>&gt; <br>&gt; -Peter<br>&gt; _______________________________________=
________<br>&gt; <br>&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" targe=
t=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http:/=
/www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.htm=
l</a><br>&gt; Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96<br>&gt; Archive: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" target=3D"_blank">http://www=
.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>&gt; <br>&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a h=
ref=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.o=
rg" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james=
f@groupwbench.org</a><br>&gt; <br><br>_____________________________________=
__________<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_bl=
ank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net=
/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Sugg=
ested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96<br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/pipermail/shop-talk" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/sho=
p-talk</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com</a><u></u><u></=
u></p></blockquote></div></div></div>______________________________________=
_________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/peterwmurray@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 10 07:42:49 2018
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2018 08:07:58 -0500
References: <97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com>
 <CB56E20B-1804-4BD1-A221-6E77C35B86FD@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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<div id="_htmlarea_default_style_" style="font:10pt arial,helvetica,sans-serif">Thanks for the suggestions.<br><br>A little research on my part may
have helped. It seem like the diameter of the garden hose "package" when you buy it nicely coiled up in the store is around 15 inches. I am assuming
that I have neither the skills nor the patience to to re-coil it as neatly as the manufacturer did. I therefore am assuming the solution will need to
have at least a 15 inch inside diameter.<br><br>5 gallon buckets are about 12 inches, but I will give it a try this weekend based on the price and
availability of 5 gallon buckets though I am not optimistic [see previous skill and patience disclaimer]. <br><br>Sonotube may also work. Home Depot
has 16 inch ... actually Quik-Tube from Quickrete ... for $15 that may work. The SawsAll will make the 48 inch long tube into four 12 inch tubes and
I'd have to fabricate a bottom for each but some 1/4 hardboard and construction adhesive may resolve that challenge.<br><br>Plastic garbage cans seem
to fit the dimension requirements. Menard's has Rubbermaid Heavy Duty 32 gallon for $10 after rebate ... complete with an impressive Menard's logo on
them!!!. The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a way that would allow random access to any individual hose. The 6 buckets and a SawsAll
session to cut them down to a reasonable size solution seems a little wasteful. However, If the 5 gallon buckets don't work out and the Quik-Tube
looks like to much work then buying a few buckets, calling it done and moving on to something I really do want to work on may be the best
solution.<br><br>Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll let you know what works out,<br>Arvid<br></div>

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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2018 10:10:05 -0400
 10/10/2018 10:10:14 AM,
 Serialize complete at 10/10/2018 10:10:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============7808842833697421171==

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Arvid writes...
>The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a way that would allow 
random access to any individual hose.


I think I have the solution.  Its hard to explain, so I posted a quick 
hand drawn sketch  (I don't have alot of time right now, but feel free to 
ask any clarification questions.) 

To store multiple hoses, so you can access any one without problem, get a 
large rubber garbage can.
Cut it into about 9" tall pieces (check size for your hoses)
Then, remove a small band around the top of each.
Add a bottom to the middle and top sections.
Now you can put a hose in each one, and they should 'nest' when you stack 
them

See the image here...
https://tinyurl.com/hosebin 

Let me know what you think.



Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 004DD2C185258322_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Arvid writes...</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&gt;</font><font size=3>The challenge
there is how to store 6 hoses in a way that would allow random access to
any individual hose.</font>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I think I have the solution. &nbsp;Its
hard to explain, so I posted a quick hand drawn sketch &nbsp;(I don't have
alot of time right now, but feel free to ask any clarification questions.)
</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">To store multiple hoses, so you can
access any one without problem, get a large rubber garbage can.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Cut it into about 9&quot; tall pieces
(check size for your hoses)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Then, remove a small band around the
top of each.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Add a bottom to the middle and top sections.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Now you can put a hose in each one,
and they should 'nest' when you stack them</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">See the image here...</font>
<br><a href=https://tinyurl.com/hosebin><font size=3 color=blue><b>https://tinyurl.com/hosebin</b></font></a><font size=3>
</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Let me know what you think.</font>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 004DD2C185258322_=--

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Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2018 11:31:45 -0400
To: eric@megageek.com,Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com>
 <CB56E20B-1804-4BD1-A221-6E77C35B86FD@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1014954983284870985==
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--=====================_40451854==.ALT

Do a google search for "plastic beverage tub."  This might be easier 
than cutting down garbage pails.  They come in a variety of styles 
and prices.  Some of them look like they would work and don't cost too much.

-Steve

At 10:10 AM 10/10/2018, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>Arvid writes...
> >The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a way that would 
> allow random access to any individual hose.
>
>
>I think I have the solution.  Its hard to explain, so I posted a 
>quick hand drawn sketch  (I don't have alot of time right now, but 
>feel free to ask any clarification questions.)
>
>To store multiple hoses, so you can access any one without problem, 
>get a large rubber garbage can.
>Cut it into about 9" tall pieces (check size for your hoses)
>Then, remove a small band around the top of each.
>Add a bottom to the middle and top sections.
>Now you can put a hose in each one, and they should 'nest' when you 
>stack them
>
>See the image here...
><https://tinyurl.com/hosebin>https://tinyurl.com/hosebin
>
>Let me know what you think.
>
>
>
>Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
>Tech Viper
>"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
>rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
>territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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Do a google search for &quot;plastic beverage tub.&quot;&nbsp; This might
be easier than cutting down garbage pails.&nbsp; They come in a variety
of styles and prices.&nbsp; Some of them look like they would work and
don't cost too much.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 10:10 AM 10/10/2018, eric@megageek.com wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>Arvid
writes...</font> <br>
<font size=2>&gt;</font>The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a
way that would allow random access to any individual hose. <br><br>
<br>
<font size=2>I think I have the solution.&nbsp; Its hard to explain, so I
posted a quick hand drawn sketch&nbsp; (I don't have alot of time right
now, but feel free to ask any clarification questions.) </font><br><br>
<font size=2>To store multiple hoses, so you can access any one without
problem, get a large rubber garbage can.</font> <br>
<font size=2>Cut it into about 9&quot; tall pieces (check size for your
hoses)</font> <br>
<font size=2>Then, remove a small band around the top of each.</font>
<br>
<font size=2>Add a bottom to the middle and top sections.</font> <br>
<font size=2>Now you can put a hose in each one, and they should 'nest'
when you stack them</font> <br><br>
<font size=2>See the image here...</font> <br>
<font color="#0000FF"><b><a href="https://tinyurl.com/hosebin">
https://tinyurl.com/hosebin</a></b></font> <br><br>
<font size=2>Let me know what you think.</font> <br><br>
<br>
<font size=2><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your
territory.&quot; Ralph Waldo Emerson </font><br>
_______________________________________________<br><br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
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Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2018 11:56:24 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
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Do a google search for "plastic beverage tub."  This might be easier 
than cutting down garbage pails.  They come in a variety of styles 
and prices.  Some of them look like they would work and don't cost too much.

-Steve

At 10:10 AM 10/10/2018, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>Arvid writes...
> >The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a way that would 
> allow random access to any individual hose.


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Do a google search for &quot;plastic beverage tub.&quot;&nbsp; This might
be easier than cutting down garbage pails.&nbsp; They come in a variety
of styles and prices.&nbsp; Some of them look like they would work and
don't cost too much.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 10:10 AM 10/10/2018, eric@megageek.com wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>Arvid
writes...</font> <br>
<font size=2>&gt;</font>The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a
way that would allow random access to any individual hose.
</blockquote><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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		<td style="width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-free. <a href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link" target="_blank" style="color: #4453ea;">www.avast.com</a>
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To: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <97jnj9pji031sg7dcmchpkwk.1538961551602@email.android.com>
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2018 15:54:37 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storing garden hoses
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Do you have exposed joists in the garage?Â  If so, just attach a 2' long 
2x4 and hang the coiled hoses.Â  You should be able to get 2 per side.Â  
Take a segment of 12 or 14 gauge electrical wire and use it as an 
oversized twist tie to keep the hose together.Â  If you put the 2x4 
across the top of the joist, it should leave plenty of headroom.

On 10/10/2018 6:07 AM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions.
>
> A little research on my part may have helped. It seem like the 
> diameter of the garden hose "package" when you buy it nicely coiled up 
> in the store is around 15 inches. I am assuming that I have neither 
> the skills nor the patience to to re-coil it as neatly as the 
> manufacturer did. I therefore am assuming the solution will need to 
> have at least a 15 inch inside diameter.
>
> 5 gallon buckets are about 12 inches, but I will give it a try this 
> weekend based on the price and availability of 5 gallon buckets though 
> I am not optimistic [see previous skill and patience disclaimer].
>
> Sonotube may also work. Home Depot has 16 inch ... actually Quik-Tube 
> from Quickrete ... for $15 that may work. The SawsAll will make the 48 
> inch long tube into four 12 inch tubes and I'd have to fabricate a 
> bottom for each but some 1/4 hardboard and construction adhesive may 
> resolve that challenge.
>
> Plastic garbage cans seem to fit the dimension requirements. Menard's 
> has Rubbermaid Heavy Duty 32 gallon for $10 after rebate ... complete 
> with an impressive Menard's logo on them!!!. The challenge there is 
> how to store 6 hoses in a way that would allow random access to any 
> individual hose. The 6 buckets and a SawsAll session to cut them down 
> to a reasonable size solution seems a little wasteful. However, If the 
> 5 gallon buckets don't work out and the Quik-Tube looks like to much 
> work then buying a few buckets, calling it done and moving on to 
> something I really do want to work on may be the best solution.
>
> Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll let you know what works out,
> Arvid
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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    Do you have exposed joists in the garage?Â  If so, just attach a 2'
    long 2x4 and hang the coiled hoses.Â  You should be able to get 2 per
    side.Â  Take a segment of 12 or 14 gauge electrical wire and use it
    as an oversized twist tie to keep the hose together.Â  If you put the
    2x4 across the top of the joist, it should leave plenty of headroom.<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/10/2018 6:07 AM, Arvid Jedlicka
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:web-10649053@mailback1.g2host.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div id="_htmlarea_default_style_" style="font:10pt
        arial,helvetica,sans-serif">Thanks for the suggestions.<br>
        <br>
        A little research on my part may
        have helped. It seem like the diameter of the garden hose
        "package" when you buy it nicely coiled up in the store is
        around 15 inches. I am assuming
        that I have neither the skills nor the patience to to re-coil it
        as neatly as the manufacturer did. I therefore am assuming the
        solution will need to
        have at least a 15 inch inside diameter.<br>
        <br>
        5 gallon buckets are about 12 inches, but I will give it a try
        this weekend based on the price and
        availability of 5 gallon buckets though I am not optimistic [see
        previous skill and patience disclaimer]. <br>
        <br>
        Sonotube may also work. Home Depot
        has 16 inch ... actually Quik-Tube from Quickrete ... for $15
        that may work. The SawsAll will make the 48 inch long tube into
        four 12 inch tubes and
        I'd have to fabricate a bottom for each but some 1/4 hardboard
        and construction adhesive may resolve that challenge.<br>
        <br>
        Plastic garbage cans seem
        to fit the dimension requirements. Menard's has Rubbermaid Heavy
        Duty 32 gallon for $10 after rebate ... complete with an
        impressive Menard's logo on
        them!!!. The challenge there is how to store 6 hoses in a way
        that would allow random access to any individual hose. The 6
        buckets and a SawsAll
        session to cut them down to a reasonable size solution seems a
        little wasteful. However, If the 5 gallon buckets don't work out
        and the Quik-Tube
        looks like to much work then buying a few buckets, calling it
        done and moving on to something I really do want to work on may
        be the best
        solution.<br>
        <br>
        Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll let you know what
        works out,<br>
        Arvid<br>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


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    </blockquote>
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2018 09:12:29 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] anyone repair cell phones
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I have an IPhone 6s I=E2=80=99m trying to replace ear piece speaker and =
having trouble... anyone ??

john
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<DIV>I have an IPhone 6s I=E2=80=99m trying to replace ear piece speaker =
and having=20
trouble... anyone ??</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2018 11:03:13 -0400
References: <AEBB188638704E389BB849FAAB72BA9F@Johnsdesktop>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] anyone repair cell phones
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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Have you looked at ifixit.com?  They have excellent step-by-step tutorials. I=
f you haven=E2=80=99t bought your parts yet, I also recommend them for parts=
. They have a lifetime guarantee and are very good about honoring it if a pa=
rt fails.=20

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2018, at 10:12 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>=20
> I have an IPhone 6s I=E2=80=99m trying to replace ear piece speaker and ha=
ving trouble... anyone ??
> =20
> john
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789al=
pine@gmail.com
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Have you looked at <a href=3D"http://ifixit=
.com">ifixit.com</a>? &nbsp;They have excellent step-by-step tutorials. If y=
ou haven=E2=80=99t bought your parts yet, I also recommend them for parts. T=
hey have a lifetime guarantee and are very good about honoring it if a part f=
ails.&nbsp;<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPhone</div><=
div><br>On Oct 12, 2018, at 10:12 AM, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jnio=
lon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D=
"cite"><div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>I have an IPhone 6s I=E2=80=99m trying to replace ear piece speaker and=
 having=20
trouble... anyone ??</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>john</div></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>____________________=
___________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mail=
to:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Do=
nate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate=
.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><=
span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www=
.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscri=
be/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789al=
pine@gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@g=
mail.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============3221617975474666986==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 12 10:43:41 2018
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From: Philip Nase <pnase@me.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2018 11:38:28 -0400
References: <AEBB188638704E389BB849FAAB72BA9F@Johnsdesktop>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] anyone repair cell phones
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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https://www.ifixit.com/Search?query=3DiPhone+6s+Speaker+

Phil Nase
Applebachsville, PA

> On Oct 12, 2018, at 10:12 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>=20
> I have an IPhone 6s I=E2=80=99m trying to replace ear piece speaker and ha=
ving trouble... anyone ??
> =20
> john
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pnase@=
me.com
>=20

--Apple-Mail-25CC5259-0CEA-4658-8B22-553A85EF7D28
	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><br><a href=3D"https://www.ifixit.com/Searc=
h?query=3DiPhone+6s+Speaker+">https://www.ifixit.com/Search?query=3DiPhone+6=
s+Speaker+</a><div><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr"><span styl=
e=3D"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Phil Nase</span><div><span s=
tyle=3D"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Applebachsville, PA</span=
></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 12, 2018, at 10:12 AM, john niolon &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br>=
</div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>I have an IPhone 6s I=E2=80=99m trying to replace ear piece speaker and=
 having=20
trouble... anyone ??</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>john</div></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a h=
ref=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><=
br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team=
.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96<=
/span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"=
>http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a></span><br><span></span><br><spa=
n>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-=
talk/pnase@me.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pnase@me.=
com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============6481781562353261590==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 13 05:07:56 2018
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References: <CAJ8HLP9Qr0oCfi9LHoD4tZYxhOGhz+d9F0hOeHN1D615tJ8x0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CC94176B-5DF2-4F79-9A89-44E33EDCC1AF@groupwbench.org>
From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2018 20:43:22 -0700
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6611694265311054751==

--000000000000e4ae480577c38ac4

--000000000000e4ae450577c38ac3

you're math is backwards Jim.  new tires are smaller than the original flat
tires, not likely to hit the fenders...
[image: image.png]

(sent this to Peter privately originally, but saw a couple messages with
the wrong info, so sending this out)

--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 7:37 PM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> The only downside I can think of is that the new tires might hit the
> fenders, either immediately or while turning the steering wheel. Still,
> someone buying this should expect issues like this and just needs to be
> told.
>
> jim
>
> > On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law, i
> ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They're bagged and unmounted,
> and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread
> remaining).
> >
> > He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while.
> The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They're 235/75/R15. I
> got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear flat,
> it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I drove
> it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.
> >
> > I realize they're not quite the same size, but I wonder if I couldn't
> replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted tires. I
> realize they're slightly different in width and circumference, but they're
> pretty doggone close. This isn't going to be used as a hauler. More likely
> my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that having four decent
> and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position than requiring a
> buyer to tow his purchase away...
> >
> > Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what Bad
> things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?
> >
> > Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its
> in western Colorado, I'm in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children and
> my self-employment keeping me busy enough.
> >
> > Thanks for all your sage wisdom!
> >
> > -Peter
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com
>
>
>

--000000000000e4ae450577c38ac3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">you&#39;re math is backwards Jim.=C2=A0 n=
ew tires are smaller than the original flat tires, not likely to hit the fe=
nders...<div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_jn16h8sa0" alt=3D"image.png" width=3D"=
519" height=3D"223"><br></div><div><br></div><div>(sent this to Peter priva=
tely originally, but saw a couple messages with the wrong info, so sending =
this out)</div><div><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signatur=
e">--<br>__<br>Miq Millman=C2=A0=C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:miq@bigllama.com" =
target=3D"_blank">miq@bigllama.com</a><br>Tualatin, OR=C2=A0 Big Llama Prod=
uctions<br></div></div><br></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"=
><div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 7:37 PM Jim Franklin &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-=
left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">The only downside I can think of is t=
hat the new tires might hit the fenders, either immediately or while turnin=
g the steering wheel. Still, someone buying this should expect issues like =
this and just needs to be told.<br>
<br>
jim<br>
<br>
&gt; On Oct 8, 2018, at 4:02 PM, Peter Murray &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:peterwm=
urray@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">peterwmurray@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
>
&gt; <br>
&gt; In cleaning out the garage/shop of my recently-deceased father-in-law,=
 i ran across two pairs of P215/70/R15 tires. They&#39;re bagged and unmoun=
ted, and appear to be in similar and reasonable shape (about 50% tread rema=
ining).<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; He also had a 1969 Ford F100 pickup that has been sitting for a while.=
 The tires are pretty beat and one will not hold air. They&#39;re 235/75/R1=
5. I got it running while I was out there last week, but with the one rear =
flat, it was tough to evaluate it much. Electrically it appeared solid. I d=
rove it about 100 feet, so the clutch, first and reverse all worked fine.<b=
r>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I realize they&#39;re not quite the same size, but I wonder if I could=
n&#39;t replace the tires currently on the truck with the four unmounted ti=
res. I realize they&#39;re slightly different in width and circumference, b=
ut they&#39;re pretty doggone close. This isn&#39;t going to be used as a h=
auler. More likely my mother-in-law will sell it (sigh), and I figure that =
having four decent and inflated tires gives a better negotiating position t=
han requiring a buyer to tow his purchase away...<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Aside from aesthetics and (slightly) incorrect speedo/odometer, what B=
ad things could potentially come from putting these tires on the truck?<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Yes, i would probably try to keep it, were it not 2000 miles away (its=
 in western Colorado, I&#39;m in northern Virginia) and my 3 young children=
 and my self-employment keeping me busy enough.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks for all your sage wisdom!<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; -Peter<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-tal=
k@autox.team.net</a><br>
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&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/s=
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&gt; <br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
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<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============6611694265311054751==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 13 05:25:09 2018
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To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>, "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, 
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <a89a22c0-9c70-72cf-2496-f048e9867a56@earthlink.net>
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 01:40:07 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 10/8/2018 10:53 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> I have a Win 7 laptop that had not been used in over a year, so had a =

> similar issue.
>
> My first updates would be your anti-virus.
>
> I then ran Windows Update at least 10 times to get it caught up. It =

> would do some updates then need a restart.=A0 It then found another =

> batch and needed another restart....
>
> I'd just plug it in and start running updates.=A0 Check every once in a =

> while.=A0 Perhaps turn off the power saving/sleep so it stays on.
>
> After all these updates, then I'd check your browser if not IE, Adobe =

> Flash, and Reader if you have them installed.

It should be noted that, depending upon the length of time the laptop =

has been sitting, there was a period when M$oft was sending out some =

updates that amounted to malware.=A0 There were a series of updates that =

installed so-called "compatibility" fixes.=A0 These were designed to set =

up the computer for an automatic update to Win10, which M$oft did some =

time later.=A0 There was quite a furor over it, and M$oft backed down... =

but, they're still sending out "compatibility" monitors and fixes, most =

recently, about three months ago.=A0 M$oft says these are to ensure your =

version works with later versions, but, frankly, having done this once, =

they might be planning to do it again.=A0 Unfortunately, if you like or =

need the version you have, or need some backward emulation to XP for =

some of your software, it means going through the individual updates and =

finding the descriptions for each update, looking for those described as =

monitoring or upgrading compatibility or seem to be prepping the =

computer for Win10, and then delisting and hiding those.=A0 Pretty =

time-consuming process after a long time without installing updates.

Before you begin updating, you might want to do a quick browse for the =

issue, and see if there are still some third-party patches available to =

prevent the installation of the critical files.=A0 I installed this one:

https://www.grc.com/never10.htm

I didn't need or want Win10 because I don't have any devices with touch =

screens, didn't like the desktop, and after some considerable work =

getting to that point, have a very stable Win7 installation (meaning, I =

can live with one BSOD every 12-18 months or so).

And spend a little time working that "z" key.=A0 It might start working =

again if the problem is mechanical, rather than electrical. Otherwise, =

there are lots of scavenged used keyboards available from the usual =

suspects. My son-in-law had an ancient laptop that had a broken charger =

receptacle, and after I fixed that, I discovered that the memory was =

fried.=A0 Fixed the memory, and broke the password to get into it, and =

discovered that half the keyboard was inoperative. I pretty much hate =

eBay, because they've cost me so much money in cars on which they =

wouldn't honor their buyback guarantee, but, you can find keyboards =

there for almost anything for $10-20.

Cheers.

-- =



Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance=
....


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

utox.team.net


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Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2018 14:49:50 -0500
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>,
 Shop-Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
 AYM5Ie9nP+oGkkH7h5wmN77fHZGkGTWk4YX9VjguJZ9ytOLmaowJeDcYlGpoTuruKrrT7BUsE2DIqa4FMqCEwYK4vCIccvpM5/8av6WwVYl1l3ZVxgaFEAyE
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire size/capability question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

------I8DNVZR35N48JGK93CDZPSZOM516FM
 charset=utf-8
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You might consider putting something on the bill of sale stating the tires =
may not be safe, just so you have a paper trail in case something goes wron=
g=2E

Otherwise, I think you'll have no trouble at all=2E Speedo likely reads hi=
gh anyway :)
-- Randall
------I8DNVZR35N48JGK93CDZPSZOM516FM
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

You might consider putting something on the bill of sale stating the tires =
may not be safe, just so you have a paper trail in case something goes wron=
g=2E<br><br>Otherwise, I think you'll have no trouble at all=2E Speedo like=
ly reads high anyway :)<br>-- Randall
------I8DNVZR35N48JGK93CDZPSZOM516FM--

--===============8390468078707221832==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============8390468078707221832==--

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From: Nolan <opposumking@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2018 18:31:51 -0400
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 <a89a22c0-9c70-72cf-2496-f048e9867a56@earthlink.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2018 09:06:49 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] IPhone repair resolved
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============3558401146301111613==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0077_01D462D4.12F1EAE0"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01D462D4.12F1EAE0
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

thanks for all the info on the iPhone... my problem was all self induced

I was using the I-repair video for instruction... but my brain was =
scrambling the reassembly sequence
after I watched the video a couple more times I realized I was =
reinstalling wiring in the wrong order...duh...
and those little screws are TINY !!!!!!!!!
phone working properly now and I can hear what people are saying to me

john
------=_NextPart_000_0077_01D462D4.12F1EAE0
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>thanks for all the info on the iPhone... my problem was all self=20
induced</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I was using the I-repair video for instruction... but my brain was=20
scrambling the reassembly sequence</DIV>
<DIV>after I watched the video a couple more times I realized I was =
reinstalling=20
wiring in the wrong order...duh...</DIV>
<DIV>and those little screws are TINY !!!!!!!!!</DIV>
<DIV>phone working properly now and I can hear what people are saying to =

me</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01D462D4.12F1EAE0--


--===============3558401146301111613==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============3558401146301111613==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 14 07:12:01 2018
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 Sun, 14 Oct 2018 05:30:26 -0700 (PDT)
References: <CY4PR13MB13025DDF60DC21F7233CE5F9B4E60@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <a89a22c0-9c70-72cf-2496-f048e9867a56@earthlink.net>
 <5E732A22-77DA-4E0A-9D67-EF0FE45317FA@verizon.net>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2018 08:30:10 -0400
To: opposumking@verizon.net
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG OVER DUE WINDOWS UPDATES
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0819684060395903020==

--000000000000371fbf05782f7c32
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Nolan-

I have no problems doing anything with Windows 7 on the variety of PCs (and
bootcamp Macs) I run in and around my Shop, for clients and for family.

If you're having trouble with web pages, you many need a plug-in enabled in
your browser, or perhaps an adblocker or other protective measure is
preventing a page from loading fully (I have had this issue). I have yet to
run into an app that works in Windows 10 that doesn't run in Windows 7.

An additional note: The performance improvement of a SSD over a HDD is not
to be underestimated! If you'd like to see if a fresh install of Windows 7
would fix your issues, buy a 256GB SSD (<$60) and give it a try. That way,
you can set aside your current drive and go back to it if you so choose.

Happy to help further if you'd like.

-Peter (IT guy)

On Sat, Oct 13, 2018 at 8:15 AM Nolan <opposumking@verizon.net> wrote:

>
> Recently had to reinstall windows on my old laptop.  Windows 10 was not a
> good idea.  Not as a free upgrade when it was released, not as an upgrade
> now.
>
> In windows 7/8 it ran just fine.  About 1 minute to boot up.  Opened and
> closed programs in seconds.
>
> With windows 10, boot up is about a 10 minute process.  Starting a progra=
m
> takes upwards of a minute.  It=E2=80=99s awful.
>
> That said, trying to do things with a windows 7/8 computer was
> frustrating.  Many web pages would not load or not load right.  Many
> programs would not install.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Nolan-<div><br></div><div>I have no problems doing anythin=
g with Windows 7 on the variety of PCs (and bootcamp Macs) I run in and aro=
und my Shop, for clients and for family.</div><div><br></div><div>If you&#3=
9;re having trouble with web pages, you many need a plug-in enabled in your=
 browser, or perhaps an adblocker or other protective measure is preventing=
 a page from loading fully (I have had this issue). I have yet to run into =
an app that works in Windows 10 that doesn&#39;t run in Windows 7.</div><di=
v><br></div><div>An additional note: The performance improvement of a SSD o=
ver a HDD is not to be underestimated! If you&#39;d like to see if a fresh =
install of Windows 7 would fix your issues, buy a 256GB SSD (&lt;$60) and g=
ive it a try. That way, you can set aside your current drive and go back to=
 it if you so choose.</div><div><br></div><div>Happy to help further if you=
&#39;d like.</div><div><br></div><div>-Peter (IT guy)</div></div><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sat, Oct 13, 2018 at 8:15 AM Nolan=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:opposumking@verizon.net">opposumking@verizon.net</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 =
0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><br>
Recently had to reinstall windows on my old laptop.=C2=A0 Windows 10 was no=
t a good idea.=C2=A0 Not as a free upgrade when it was released, not as an =
upgrade now.<br>
<br>
In windows 7/8 it ran just fine.=C2=A0 About 1 minute to boot up.=C2=A0 Ope=
ned and closed programs in seconds.<br>
<br>
With windows 10, boot up is about a 10 minute process.=C2=A0 Starting a pro=
gram takes upwards of a minute.=C2=A0 It=E2=80=99s awful.<br>
<br>
That said, trying to do things with a windows 7/8 computer was frustrating.=
=C2=A0 Many web pages would not load or not load right.=C2=A0 Many programs=
 would not install.<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/peterwmurray@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0819684060395903020==--

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From: David Cole <dgcole01@bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2018 10:19:27 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Roller bearing toolbox conversion?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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References: <7CA63104-1101-4312-9143-185D28A1A528@bellsouth.net>
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2018 13:51:17 -0400
To: David Cole <dgcole01@bellsouth.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Roller bearing toolbox conversion?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4181220636420262204==

--000000000000f7862b057848159f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Several places offer replacement drawer slides.  There may be some that are
direct fits or if you're willing to drill and screw/bolt them on you can
get more generics.  The tool box drawer and modern kitchen cabinet ones are
surprisingly similar.  Just google "tool box replacement slides" and lots
of stuff pops up.  I've got a "Clarke" box from Menards that had a similar
problem and replaced them a few years ago --- and they were ball bearing.
It seems to be more to do with how they're fastened to the cabinet and the
drawer.  These were snap in and the tangs that held them in were bending.

Ben.....

On Mon, Oct 15, 2018 at 1:17 PM David Cole <dgcole01@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> I=E2=80=99ve got a couple of large (large for homeowner size) Craftsman t=
ool
> boxes.   One of them has regular drawers.  Non ball bearing slides.  I=E2=
=80=99d
> like to convert at least the bottom two drawers on this one to ball beari=
ng
> sides.  They are heavy due to hammers and body work equipment.   Don=E2=
=80=99t want
> to throw this cabinet out but the drawers keep coming off the tracks due =
to
> the weight.
>
> Anyone done this?
>
> I=E2=80=99ve seen ball bearing slides on Amazon and eBay pretty cheap.
>
> I=E2=80=99m concerned about how to attach the slides to the cabinet and d=
rawers
> Don=E2=80=99t know if bolts would work.   The current setup has a bent li=
p on the
> slide with matching grooves/lip on both the drawer and cabinet.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
>
>

--=20
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler@gmail.com
Columbus, IN

--000000000000f7862b057848159f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Several places offer replacement drawer slides.=C2=A0 Ther=
e may be some that are direct fits or if you&#39;re willing to drill and sc=
rew/bolt them on you can get more generics.=C2=A0 The tool box drawer and m=
odern kitchen cabinet ones are surprisingly similar.=C2=A0 Just google &quo=
t;tool box replacement slides&quot; and lots of stuff pops up.=C2=A0 I&#39;=
ve got a &quot;Clarke&quot; box from Menards that had a similar problem and=
 replaced them a few years ago --- and they were ball bearing.=C2=A0 It see=
ms to be more to do with how they&#39;re fastened to the cabinet and the dr=
awer.=C2=A0 These were snap in and the tangs that held them in were bending=
.<div><br></div><div>Ben.....</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Oct 15, 2018 at 1:17 PM David Cole &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:dgcole01@bellsouth.net">dgcole01@bellsouth.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div>=
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I=E2=80=99ve got a couple of large (large fo=
r homeowner size) Craftsman tool boxes.=C2=A0 =C2=A0One of them has regular=
 drawers.=C2=A0 Non ball bearing slides.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99d like to convert =
at least the bottom two drawers on this one to ball bearing sides.=C2=A0 Th=
ey are heavy due to hammers and body work equipment.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Don=E2=80=
=99t want to throw this cabinet out but the drawers keep coming off the tra=
cks due to the weight. <br>
<br>
Anyone done this?<br>
<br>
I=E2=80=99ve seen ball bearing slides on Amazon and eBay pretty cheap.=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0<br>
<br>
I=E2=80=99m concerned about how to attach the slides to the cabinet and dra=
wers Don=E2=80=99t know if bolts would work.=C2=A0 =C2=A0The current setup =
has a bent lip on the slide with matching grooves/lip on both the drawer an=
d cabinet.<br>
<br>
Thoughts?<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"l=
tr"><div><div>Ben Zwissler<br></div><a href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com"=
 target=3D"_blank">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br></div>Columbus, IN<br></div>=
</div>

--000000000000f7862b057848159f--

--===============4181220636420262204==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============4181220636420262204==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 16 12:30:46 2018
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2018 09:34:35 -0400
 10/16/2018 09:34:46 AM,
 Serialize complete at 10/16/2018 09:34:46 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with limited
	waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============1987819002360523653==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 004A931C85258328_=

This is shop related, but more wood shop, so if that is a problem, please 
just pretend that I am speaking of sheet metal for fenders instead of 
plywood.

Here is the problem.  I need to build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the 
local wildlife rescue.  These boxes aren't big or difficult to build 
(about 12" X 20" X 12")

My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan how 
to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?  I'm not sure I'm 
explaining this well.  But a way to position each panel that needs to be 
cut so that I use the most material available with the least about of 
waste? 

I also have a little flexibility in the dimensions, so if it is possible 
to try a bunch of different sizes easily to see what yields the most boxes 
for least amount of raw material.

Thanks,  me and the baby animals thank you.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 004A931C85258328_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">This is shop related, but more wood shop,
so if that is a problem, please just pretend that I am speaking of sheet
metal for fenders instead of plywood.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Here is the problem. &nbsp;I need to
build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the local wildlife rescue. &nbsp;These
boxes aren't big or difficult to build (about 12&quot; X 20&quot; X 12&quot;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">My question is, does anyone know of
a website that will help you plan how to layout materials on sheet goods
to reduce waste? &nbsp;I'm not sure I'm explaining this well. &nbsp;But
a way to position each panel that needs to be cut so that I use the most
material available with the least about of waste? </font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I also have a little flexibility in
the dimensions, so if it is possible to try a bunch of different sizes
easily to see what yields the most boxes for least amount of raw material.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks, &nbsp;me and the baby animals
thank you.<br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 004A931C85258328_=--

--===============1987819002360523653==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============1987819002360523653==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 16 19:58:20 2018
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References: <OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2018 15:19:05 -0400
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 2:41 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
> My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan how to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?

Made sense to me.

Multiples of 12" and 16" (minus the saw kerf) should yield pieces that
will fully utilize a sheet of plywood.  Does that work for you?
Otherwise you will have odd bits of about 8" by whatever left over.


One sheet:  24 sides and bottoms (all 12x16)

Second sheet :  20 short sides (12x12) and 3 sides/bottoms (12x16).
That gives you 9 boxes, with two short sides (12x12) left over.

If they have to be 20", then it gets trickier.  Is SketchUp still a thing?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2018 15:48:26 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I've used the "cutlist" plugin for the free "Sketchup" modeling program 
which will take your design and compute a reasonable cut list.  Its 
layouts aren't perfectly efficient, though.  Layouts that absolutely 
minimize waste tend to be a nightmare to cut out so this program 
achieves a decent middle ground.

J


On 10/16/18 9:34 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> This is shop related, but more wood shop, so if that is a problem, 
> please just pretend that I am speaking of sheet metal for fenders 
> instead of plywood.
>
> Here is the problem.  I need to build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for 
> the local wildlife rescue.  These boxes aren't big or difficult to 
> build (about 12" X 20" X 12")
>
> My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan 
> how to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?  I'm not sure 
> I'm explaining this well.  But a way to position each panel that needs 
> to be cut so that I use the most material available with the least 
> about of waste?
>
> I also have a little flexibility in the dimensions, so if it is 
> possible to try a bunch of different sizes easily to see what yields 
> the most boxes for least amount of raw material.
>
> Thanks,  me and the baby animals thank you.
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
>


--------------EF415656DE8369592E7815C0
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">I've used the "cutlist" plugin for the
      free "Sketchup" modeling program which will take your design and
      compute a reasonable cut list.  Its layouts aren't perfectly
      efficient, though.  Layouts that absolutely minimize waste tend to
      be a nightmare to cut out so this program achieves a decent middle
      ground.</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">J</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/16/18 9:34 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">This is shop related, but more
        wood shop,
        so if that is a problem, please just pretend that I am speaking
        of sheet
        metal for fenders instead of plywood.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Here is the problem.  I need to
        build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the local wildlife
        rescue.  These
        boxes aren't big or difficult to build (about 12" X 20" X 12")</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">My question is, does anyone know
        of
        a website that will help you plan how to layout materials on
        sheet goods
        to reduce waste?  I'm not sure I'm explaining this well.  But
        a way to position each panel that needs to be cut so that I use
        the most
        material available with the least about of waste? </font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">I also have a little flexibility
        in
        the dimensions, so if it is possible to try a bunch of different
        sizes
        easily to see what yields the most boxes for least amount of raw
        material.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Thanks,  me and the baby animals
        thank you.<br>
        <br>
        Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
        Tech Viper<br>
        "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
        rational
        being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
        Ralph
        Waldo Emerson </font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
  </body>
</html>

--------------EF415656DE8369592E7815C0--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============8522113694791715167==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 16 22:14:09 2018
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 <CAO8Q7COGP+5dmKWDLbhfO9VrYs4reRN0h6OLU7yL+_2K55cQVA@mail.gmail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2018 16:34:05 -0400
 10/16/2018 04:34:05 PM,
 Serialize complete at 10/16/2018 04:34:05 PM
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============7669938125877560413==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0070FC6085258328_=

This is awesome.  I can't believe I overlooked the simplicity.

Thanks a ton!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 



From:   Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To:     eric@megageek.com
Cc:     "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date:   10/16/2018 03:19 PM
Subject:        Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use 
with limited waste.



On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 2:41 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
> My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan 
how to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?

Made sense to me.

Multiples of 12" and 16" (minus the saw kerf) should yield pieces that
will fully utilize a sheet of plywood.  Does that work for you?
Otherwise you will have odd bits of about 8" by whatever left over.


One sheet:  24 sides and bottoms (all 12x16)

Second sheet :  20 short sides (12x12) and 3 sides/bottoms (12x16).
That gives you 9 boxes, with two short sides (12x12) left over.

If they have to be 20", then it gets trickier.  Is SketchUp still a thing?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.


--=_alternative 0070FC6085258328_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">This is awesome. &nbsp;I can't believe
I overlooked the simplicity.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks a ton!</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">From: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Jeff Scarbrough &lt;fishplate@gmail.com&gt;</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">To: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">eric@megageek.com</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Cc: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">&quot;shop-talk@autox.team.net&quot;
&lt;Shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Date: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">10/16/2018 03:19 PM</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Subject: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Re: [Shop-talk]
Creating plans for maximizing material use with limited waste.</font>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><tt><font size=2>On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 2:41 PM &lt;eric@megageek.com&gt;
wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan
how to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?<br>
<br>
Made sense to me.<br>
<br>
Multiples of 12&quot; and 16&quot; (minus the saw kerf) should yield pieces
that<br>
will fully utilize a sheet of plywood. &nbsp;Does that work for you?<br>
Otherwise you will have odd bits of about 8&quot; by whatever left over.<br>
<br>
<br>
One sheet: &nbsp;24 sides and bottoms (all 12x16)<br>
<br>
Second sheet : &nbsp;20 short sides (12x12) and 3 sides/bottoms (12x16).<br>
That gives you 9 boxes, with two short sides (12x12) left over.<br>
<br>
If they have to be 20&quot;, then it gets trickier. &nbsp;Is SketchUp still
a thing?<br>
<br>
Jeff Scarbrough<br>
Corrosion Acres, Ga.<br>
</font></tt>
<br>
--=_alternative 0070FC6085258328_=--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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References: <OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAO8Q7COGP+5dmKWDLbhfO9VrYs4reRN0h6OLU7yL+_2K55cQVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <OF2E414610.9864B74F-ON85258328.0070ED88-85258328.0070FC63@mail.megageek.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2018 16:51:13 -0400
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8723618014165150121==

--0000000000006b933b05785eb760

--0000000000006b933905785eb75f

Bear in mind that you will have to tweak the dimensions a bit to get the
sides to fit around the bottoms, etc.  With my CAD program, sides are drawn
12" x 16".  Ends then become 10.5" wide by 12" high.  The bases are 10.5"
by 14.5".  So there's still a little waste... You could use the scraps to
make angled pieces to screw or glue in the corners, so they are easier to
clean out.

[image: image.png]


On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 4:34 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> This is awesome.  I can't believe I overlooked the simplicity.
>
> Thanks a ton!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
>
>
>
> From:        Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
> To:        eric@megageek.com
> Cc:        "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Date:        10/16/2018 03:19 PM
> Subject:        Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material
> use with limited waste.
> ------------------------------
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 2:41 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> >
> > My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan
> how to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?
>
> Made sense to me.
>
> Multiples of 12" and 16" (minus the saw kerf) should yield pieces that
> will fully utilize a sheet of plywood.  Does that work for you?
> Otherwise you will have odd bits of about 8" by whatever left over.
>
>
> One sheet:  24 sides and bottoms (all 12x16)
>
> Second sheet :  20 short sides (12x12) and 3 sides/bottoms (12x16).
> That gives you 9 boxes, with two short sides (12x12) left over.
>
> If they have to be 20", then it gets trickier.  Is SketchUp still a thing?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
>

--0000000000006b933905785eb75f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Bear in mind that you will have to tweak the dimensions a =
bit to get the sides to fit around the bottoms, etc.=C2=A0 With my CAD prog=
ram, sides are drawn 12&quot; x 16&quot;.=C2=A0 Ends then become 10.5&quot;=
 wide by 12&quot; high.=C2=A0 The bases are 10.5&quot; by 14.5&quot;.=C2=A0=
 So there&#39;s still a little waste... You could use the scraps to make an=
gled pieces to screw or glue in the corners, so they are easier to clean ou=
t.<br><br><div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_jnc7bstm0" alt=3D"image.png" width=
=3D"486" height=3D"394"><br></div></div></div><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 4:34 PM &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid=
;padding-left:1ex"><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">This is awesome.=C2=
=A0 I can&#39;t believe
I overlooked the simplicity.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Thanks a ton!</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"1" color=3D"#5f5f5f" face=3D"sans-serif">From: =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0
=C2=A0</font><font size=3D"1" face=3D"sans-serif">Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:fishplate@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">fishplate@gmail.com</a>=
&gt;</font>
<br><font size=3D"1" color=3D"#5f5f5f" face=3D"sans-serif">To: =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0
=C2=A0</font><font size=3D"1" face=3D"sans-serif"><a href=3D"mailto:eric@me=
gageek.com" target=3D"_blank">eric@megageek.com</a></font>
<br><font size=3D"1" color=3D"#5f5f5f" face=3D"sans-serif">Cc: =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0
=C2=A0</font><font size=3D"1" face=3D"sans-serif">&quot;<a href=3D"mailto:s=
hop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&quo=
t;
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk=
@autox.team.net</a>&gt;</font>
<br><font size=3D"1" color=3D"#5f5f5f" face=3D"sans-serif">Date: =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0
=C2=A0</font><font size=3D"1" face=3D"sans-serif">10/16/2018 03:19 PM</font=
>
<br><font size=3D"1" color=3D"#5f5f5f" face=3D"sans-serif">Subject: =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0
=C2=A0 =C2=A0</font><font size=3D"1" face=3D"sans-serif">Re: [Shop-talk]
Creating plans for maximizing material use with limited waste.</font>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><tt><font size=3D"2">On Tue, Oct 16, 2018 at 2:41 PM &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:eric@megageek.com" target=3D"_blank">eric@megageek.com</a>&gt;
wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan
how to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?<br>
<br>
Made sense to me.<br>
<br>
Multiples of 12&quot; and 16&quot; (minus the saw kerf) should yield pieces
that<br>
will fully utilize a sheet of plywood.=C2=A0 Does that work for you?<br>
Otherwise you will have odd bits of about 8&quot; by whatever left over.<br=
>
<br>
<br>
One sheet: =C2=A024 sides and bottoms (all 12x16)<br>
<br>
Second sheet : =C2=A020 short sides (12x12) and 3 sides/bottoms (12x16).<br=
>
That gives you 9 boxes, with two short sides (12x12) left over.<br>
<br>
If they have to be 20&quot;, then it gets trickier.=C2=A0 Is SketchUp still
a thing?<br>
<br>
Jeff Scarbrough<br>
Corrosion Acres, Ga.<br>
</font></tt>
<br></blockquote></div>

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--===============8723618014165150121==
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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--===============8723618014165150121==--

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 g5-v6mr22734719qti.384.1539735833625; 
 Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:23:53 -0700 (PDT)
References: <OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com>
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2018 20:23:40 -0400
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7087381350811975114==

--000000000000695d53057861af3d

Yes! I have used this program for a couple of speaker building projects:

http://www.delphiforfun.org.ws034.alentus.com/programs/cutlist.htm

Doug


On Tue, Oct 16, 2018, 2:36 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> This is shop related, but more wood shop, so if that is a problem, please
> just pretend that I am speaking of sheet metal for fenders instead of
> plywood.
>
> Here is the problem.  I need to build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the
> local wildlife rescue.  These boxes aren't big or difficult to build (about
> 12" X 20" X 12")
>
> My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan how
> to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?  I'm not sure I'm
> explaining this well.  But a way to position each panel that needs to be
> cut so that I use the most material available with the least about of
> waste?
>
> I also have a little flexibility in the dimensions, so if it is possible
> to try a bunch of different sizes easily to see what yields the most boxes
> for least amount of raw material.
>
> Thanks,  me and the baby animals thank you.
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
>
>

--000000000000695d53057861af3d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Yes! I have used this program for a couple of speaker bui=
lding projects:<div dir=3D"auto"><br><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://ww=
w.delphiforfun.org.ws034.alentus.com/programs/cutlist.htm">http://www.delph=
iforfun.org.ws034.alentus.com/programs/cutlist.htm</a><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Doug=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></=
div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Oct=
 16, 2018, 2:36 PM  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.=
com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"marg=
in:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><font size=3D"2"=
 face=3D"sans-serif">This is shop related, but more wood shop,
so if that is a problem, please just pretend that I am speaking of sheet
metal for fenders instead of plywood.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Here is the problem.=C2=A0 I need =
to
build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the local wildlife rescue.=C2=A0 The=
se
boxes aren&#39;t big or difficult to build (about 12&quot; X 20&quot; X 12&=
quot;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My question is, does anyone know o=
f
a website that will help you plan how to layout materials on sheet goods
to reduce waste?=C2=A0 I&#39;m not sure I&#39;m explaining this well.=C2=A0=
 But
a way to position each panel that needs to be cut so that I use the most
material available with the least about of waste? </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I also have a little flexibility i=
n
the dimensions, so if it is possible to try a bunch of different sizes
easily to see what yields the most boxes for least amount of raw material.<=
/font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Thanks, =C2=A0me and the baby anim=
als
thank you.<br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a><br>
<br>
alk/doug@dougbraun.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000695d53057861af3d--

--===============7087381350811975114==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============7087381350811975114==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 17 23:17:42 2018
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 definitions=2018-10-16_14:,, signatures=0
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2018 11:31:15 -0500
References: <OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============6228595253980042982==
 boundary=Apple-Mail-BE492986-70D5-41AB-B497-E9C248739F59
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-BE492986-70D5-41AB-B497-E9C248739F59
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Eric,

Another way to standardize parts is to not insert ends in on 2 sides, but to=
 lap each side onto one side & be lapped on the other. Hard for me to put in=
to words, but think about how you can close a cardboard box by closing each o=
f the flaps by folding them in all at once verses closing opposite sides tog=
ether.=20

I misunderstood something you originally said that made things more difficul=
t in my view. You said =E2=80=9Cnesting box=E2=80=9D. You meant a box that c=
ritters would nest in. I was thinking of boxes that would nest inside each o=
ther when stored. Mind recalibration made things much easier!

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Oct 16, 2018, at 8:34 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

This is shop related, but more wood shop, so if that is a problem, please ju=
st pretend that I am speaking of sheet metal for fenders instead of plywood.=
=20

Here is the problem.  I need to build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the l=
ocal wildlife rescue.  These boxes aren't big or difficult to build (about 1=
2" X 20" X 12")=20

My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan how to=
 layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?  I'm not sure I'm explaini=
ng this well.  But a way to position each panel that needs to be cut so that=
 I use the most material available with the least about of waste?=20

I also have a little flexibility in the dimensions, so if it is possible to t=
ry a bunch of different sizes easily to see what yields the most boxes for l=
east amount of raw material.=20

Thanks,  me and the baby animals thank you.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational be=
ing are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo E=
merson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-BE492986-70D5-41AB-B497-E9C248739F59
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Eric,<div><br></div><div>Another way to sta=
ndardize parts is to not insert ends in on 2 sides, but to lap each side ont=
o one side &amp; be lapped on the other. Hard for me to put into words, but t=
hink about how you can close a cardboard box by closing each of the flaps by=
 folding them in all at once verses closing opposite sides together.&nbsp;<d=
iv><br></div><div>I misunderstood something you originally said that made th=
ings more difficult in my view. You said =E2=80=9Cnesting box=E2=80=9D. You m=
eant a box that critters would nest in. I was thinking of boxes that would n=
est inside each other when stored. Mind recalibration made things much easie=
r!</div><div><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbsp;<=
div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 16, 2018, at 8:34 AM, <a href=3D"mailto:eric@m=
egageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><fon=
t size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">This is shop related, but more wood shop,
so if that is a problem, please just pretend that I am speaking of sheet
metal for fenders instead of plywood.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Here is the problem. &nbsp;I need t=
o
build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the local wildlife rescue. &nbsp;Thes=
e
boxes aren't big or difficult to build (about 12" X 20" X 12")</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My question is, does anyone know of=

a website that will help you plan how to layout materials on sheet goods
to reduce waste? &nbsp;I'm not sure I'm explaining this well. &nbsp;But
a way to position each panel that needs to be cut so that I use the most
material available with the least about of waste? </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I also have a little flexibility in=

the dimensions, so if it is possible to try a bunch of different sizes
easily to see what yields the most boxes for least amount of raw material.</=
font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Thanks, &nbsp;me and the baby anima=
ls
thank you.<br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>__________________________=
_____________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Sho=
p-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <=
a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</=
a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Ar=
chive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.n=
et/pipermail/shop-talk</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Mana=
ge: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@ic=
loud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.=
com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></div></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail-BE492986-70D5-41AB-B497-E9C248739F59--

--===============6228595253980042982==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============6228595253980042982==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 19 04:41:28 2018
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References: <OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAOtbU9Uyd+Fv29gVO=CPdGRU-aXnnaizKiJwxxiUHE8qoVYaFQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2018 21:19:15 -0500
To: doug@dougbraun.com
Cc: ShopTalk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3387415217339630415==

--0000000000004ac20a0578776a62

I tried downloading and running that program.  I keep getting a CRC error
message when unzipping the file.

Randy


On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 2:51 AM Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Yes! I have used this program for a couple of speaker building projects:
>
> http://www.delphiforfun.org.ws034.alentus.com/programs/cutlist.htm
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 16, 2018, 2:36 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> This is shop related, but more wood shop, so if that is a problem, please
>> just pretend that I am speaking of sheet metal for fenders instead of
>> plywood.
>>
>> Here is the problem.  I need to build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for
>> the local wildlife rescue.  These boxes aren't big or difficult to build
>> (about 12" X 20" X 12")
>>
>> My question is, does anyone know of a website that will help you plan how
>> to layout materials on sheet goods to reduce waste?  I'm not sure I'm
>> explaining this well.  But a way to position each panel that needs to be
>> cut so that I use the most material available with the least about of
>> waste?
>>
>> I also have a little flexibility in the dimensions, so if it is possible
>> to try a bunch of different sizes easily to see what yields the most boxes
>> for least amount of raw material.
>>
>> Thanks,  me and the baby animals thank you.
>>
>> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
>> Tech Viper
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com
>
>

--0000000000004ac20a0578776a62
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I tried downloading and running that program.=C2=A0 I keep=
 getting a CRC error message when unzipping the file.=C2=A0<div><br></div><=
div>Randy</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 2:51 AM Doug Braun &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:d=
oug@dougbraun.com">doug@dougbraun.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;=
padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Yes! I have used this program for a cou=
ple of speaker building projects:<div dir=3D"auto"><br><div dir=3D"auto"><a=
 href=3D"http://www.delphiforfun.org.ws034.alentus.com/programs/cutlist.htm=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.delphiforfun.org.ws034.alentus.com/programs/=
cutlist.htm</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Doug=
=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail=
_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Oct 16, 2018, 2:36 PM  &lt;<a href=3D"mail=
to:eric@megageek.com" target=3D"_blank">eric@megageek.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-=
left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">=
This is shop related, but more wood shop,
so if that is a problem, please just pretend that I am speaking of sheet
metal for fenders instead of plywood.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Here is the problem.=C2=A0 I need =
to
build about 10 to 20 nesting boxes for the local wildlife rescue.=C2=A0 The=
se
boxes aren&#39;t big or difficult to build (about 12&quot; X 20&quot; X 12&=
quot;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My question is, does anyone know o=
f
a website that will help you plan how to layout materials on sheet goods
to reduce waste?=C2=A0 I&#39;m not sure I&#39;m explaining this well.=C2=A0=
 But
a way to position each panel that needs to be cut so that I use the most
material available with the least about of waste? </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I also have a little flexibility i=
n
the dimensions, so if it is possible to try a bunch of different sizes
easily to see what yields the most boxes for least amount of raw material.<=
/font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Thanks, =C2=A0me and the baby anim=
als
thank you.<br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_b=
lank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a><br>
<br>
alk/doug@dougbraun.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/rande@pobox.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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References: <OF844A7C66.F4A7E29A-ON85258328.0049E31D-85258328.004A935C@mail.megageek.com>
 <C56E1E8B-1625-4FBC-9477-76493E61FE69@icloud.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2018 06:59:15 -0400
To: patintexas@icloud.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Creating plans for maximizing material use with
 limited waste.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4029998845645791840==

--0000000000002cfc1405787eaed0

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 1:24 AM Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com> wrote:

>
> Another way to standardize parts is to not insert ends in on 2 sides, but
> to lap each side onto one side & be lapped on the other.
>

That's a great idea!

Base is still 10.5" by 14.5" but short sides are 12" by 11.25", and long
sides are 12" by 15.25".  Actually results in less waste, I think.  Well
done, Pat.

Jeff Scarbrough
Sawdust Acres, Ga.

--0000000000002cfc1405787eaed0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Thu=
, Oct 18, 2018 at 1:24 AM Pat Horne &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:patintexas@icloud=
.com">patintexas@icloud.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-le=
ft:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div><br></div><div>Another way to standardize pa=
rts is to not insert ends in on 2 sides, but to lap each side onto one side=
 &amp; be lapped on the other.</div></div></blockquote><div><br></div><div>=
That&#39;s a great idea!=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Base is still 10.5&=
quot; by 14.5&quot; but short sides are 12&quot; by 11.25&quot;, and long s=
ides are 12&quot; by 15.25&quot;.=C2=A0 Actually results in less waste, I t=
hink.=C2=A0 Well done, Pat.</div><div><br></div><div>Jeff Scarbrough</div><=
div>Sawdust Acres, Ga.</div></div></div>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============4029998845645791840==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 18:11:39 2018
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: "'Shop-Talk List'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 12:57:06 -0400
Thread-Index: AdRolZNM33RYogJ5QuumT782botfQA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0066_01D46874.68AB9F80"
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Anybody still using spark plug cleaners - such as the small air powered sand
blasters of old?

 

I'm looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. - and wondering
whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.  I don't recall that
being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newer
plugs seem to be made of more exotic materials.

 

Thoughts? 

 

Al Fuller

 

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

 


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xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 =
(filtered medium)"><style><!--
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Anybody still using spark plug cleaners &#8211; such =
as the small air powered sand blasters of old?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I&#8217;m =
looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. &#8211; and =
wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.&nbsp; I =
don&#8217;t recall that being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I =
do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exotic =
materials.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thoughts? <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Al Fuller</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'65 BJ-8</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'85 Rx-7</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============8746683823592456577==--



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 18:25:24 2018
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 12:07:32 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============1313029967269445111==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00E0_01D4686D.7AF94EF0"

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a =
3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put =
in the sink and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I =
got time

I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on =
the tubing.  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit =
over the tubing.  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.  I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...  it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it in =
several places

I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results

tubing i.d. is  .882=E2=80=9D which is just over 7/8=E2=80=9D
tubing o.d. is  .900=E2=80=9D  which is just under 29/32=E2=80=9D

a new standard Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D   which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit =
over .900

if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size =
I=E2=80=99m good to go...

did the old stuff differ from todays standard =E2=80=9C
after researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...

anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing =
and offers little on actual dimensions

thanks
john
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install =
a 3/4=E2=80=9D=20
water line to the shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the =
sink and=20
the outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week I got =
time</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the=20
plumbing for sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the =
tubing.&nbsp; I=20
cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the =
tubing.&nbsp; It=20
looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s =
what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the=20
concrete.&nbsp; I tried several fittings and even cut the tubing lower =
to see if=20
it was crimped or out of round...&nbsp; it mic=E2=80=99d the same all =
the way around it=20
in several places</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>tubing i.d. is&nbsp; .882=E2=80=9D which is just over =
7/8=E2=80=9D</DIV>
<DIV>tubing o.d. is&nbsp; .900=E2=80=9D&nbsp; which is just under =
29/32=E2=80=9D</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>a new standard Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D&nbsp;&nbsp; which =
ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit over=20
.900</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size =
I=E2=80=99m good to=20
go...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>did the old stuff differ from todays standard =E2=80=9C</DIV>
<DIV>after researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of=20
fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to whatever...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is =
confusing and=20
offers little on actual dimensions</DIV>
<DIV><BR>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 20:01:33 -0500
To: Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org>
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8682428981915293810==

--0000000000004679f40578b2aeea
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Only time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs.  Auto and small
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away.  Aircraft plugs also have
"massive" electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit more material loss.

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org> wrote:

> Anybody still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air p=
owered
> sand blasters of old?
>
>
>
> I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =E2=80=
=93 and wondering
> whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.  I don=E2=80=99t recal=
l that
> being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newe=
r
> plugs seem to be made of more exotic materials.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> '65 BJ-8
>
> '85 Rx-7
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

--=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--0000000000004679f40578b2aeea
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Only time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs.=C2=
=A0 Auto and small engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away.=C2=A0 Aircraf=
t plugs also have &quot;massive&quot; electrodes, and can tolerate some qui=
te a bit more material loss.<br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr">On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
al@bighealey.org">al@bighealey.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;pad=
ding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3D"m_2479314764301177506WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anybody =
still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air powered san=
d blasters of old?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u>=
</u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several car=
s, snow blower, etc. =E2=80=93 and wondering whether the cleaning is known =
to damage the plugs.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when =
I used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be mad=
e of more exotic materials.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=
=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thoughts? <u></u><u></u></p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"color:#1f497d">Al Fuller</span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-fam=
ily:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><u></u><u></u></span></p=
><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;T=
imes New Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f497d">&#39;65 BJ-8</span><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;colo=
r:black"><u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"col=
or:#1f497d">&#39;85 Rx-7</span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:=
&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><u></u><u></u></span></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div>___________________=
____________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
<br>=3D Never offend people with style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can =
offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
</div>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============8682428981915293810==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 23:25:51 2018
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 21:09:03 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
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Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Might it be soft copper for use with flare fittings?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 10/20/2018 1:07 PM, john niolon wrote:
> Â It looks like he used coiled tubing,
> anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is 
> confusing and offers little on actual dimensions

--------------3D8B838C70AFF5BA77AECEAC
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Might it be soft copper for use with flare fittings? <br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Eric Russell
Mebane, NC </pre>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/20/2018 1:07 PM, john niolon
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR:
          #000000">Â It looks like he used coiled tubing, <br>
          <div>anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the
            net is confusing and offers little on actual dimensions</div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0532259581058483619==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 23:42:58 2018
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 20:13:48 -0500
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From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0530259071115795599==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 00:00:55 2018
Return-Path: <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1])
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References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 21:26:59 -0400
 10/20/2018 09:27:06 PM,
 Serialize complete at 10/20/2018 09:27:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============4591776374838774080==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0007F79A8525832D_=

Al,

I use the cleaner anytime I remove a plug that I plan to put back.   Its 
normally on small engines however.

One note, I actually use a spot sandblaster that has the perfect hole size 
for most plugs.  I use Al oxide for media.

Never had a problem.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0007F79A8525832D_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Al,</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
I use the cleaner anytime I remove a plug that I plan to put back. &nbsp;
Its normally on small engines however.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">One note, I actually use a spot sandblaster
that has the perfect hole size for most plugs. &nbsp;I use Al oxide for
media.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Never had a problem.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 0007F79A8525832D_=--

--===============4591776374838774080==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============4591776374838774080==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 00:18:22 2018
Return-Path: <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1])
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References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 21:29:45 -0400
 10/20/2018 09:29:51 PM,
 Serialize complete at 10/20/2018 09:29:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============7383443379003817125==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 000838668525832D_=

John,  for this I would look into a Watt's (or Sharkbite) connector.  They 
actually have a large tolerance so they will fit different OD pipes 
(copper, PEX, PVC, CPVC, etc.) 

That is the first thing I would try.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 000838668525832D_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">John, &nbsp;for this I would look into
a Watt's (or Sharkbite) connector. &nbsp;They actually have a large tolerance
so they will fit different OD pipes (copper, PEX, PVC, CPVC, etc.) &nbsp;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">That is the first thing I would try.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 000838668525832D_=--

--===============7383443379003817125==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============7383443379003817125==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 00:35:10 2018
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 20:34:01 -0500
Importance: normal
From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1301553126492112091==

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 01:44:01 2018
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 id 10/51-22391-910EBCB5; Sat, 20 Oct 2018 22:10:33 -0400
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 22:10:06 -0400
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>,shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There's certainly nothing wrong with asking the =

shop-talk gurus, but for that sort of situation I =

would walk into a plumbing supply store and tell =

them what I have and ask for a fitting.  I'm sure =

the situation has come up before.  As far as I =

know, there hasn't been any major shift in sizes =

in the last 25 years.  My house was built in 1985 =

and fittings I buy work just fine with the =

original pipes.  Maybe the coiled tubing is the =

problem.  I have never tried connecting regular fittings to that.

-Steve T.

At 01:07 PM 10/20/2018, john niolon wrote:
>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had =

>the plumber install a 3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the =

>shop and cap it off.  I was going to put in the =

>sink and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I got time
>
>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee =

>to start dry fitting the plumbing for =

>sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the =

>tubing.  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still =

>too small to fit over the tubing.  It looks like =

>he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s =

>what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.  I tried =

>several fittings and even cut the tubing lower =

>to see if it was crimped or out of round...  it =

>mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it in several places
>
>I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the results
>
>tubing i.d. is  .882=E2=80=9D which is just over 7/8=E2=80=9D
>tubing o.d. is  .900=E2=80=9D  which is just under 29/32=E2=80=9D
>
>a new standard Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D   which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit ov=
er .900
>
>if I can find one fitting to get this to =

>standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size I=E2=80=99m good to go...
>
>did the old stuff differ from todays standard =E2=80=9C
>after researching fittings a little I see that =

>there are several =E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... =

>from plumbing to hvac to whatever...
>
>anyone wanna try and give me some guidance =

>here... the net is confusing and offers little on actual dimensions
>
>thanks
>john


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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 02:42:02 2018
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
To: 'john niolon' <jniolon@att.net>, 'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 21:52:32 -0500
Thread-index: AdRo2EA0Bgby9d5mRSC5w3y3aeiABgADaQ9A
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============4395560948651883201==
 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0012_01D468BF.35DB6540"
Content-language: en-us

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01D468BF.35DB6540
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

John, I don=E2=80=99t recall having trouble with old tubing/pipe & new =
fittings.=20

=20

I just looked up the O.D. of =C2=BE=E2=80=9D pipe & tubing for water & =
it shows to be 1/8=E2=80=9D larger than what the pipe is called, so that =
would be 0.825=E2=80=9D.=20

=20

There is another system of copper tubing intended for A/C use. The =
diameters for this tubing is the same as the call size, so 7/8=E2=80=9D =
tubing would measure 0.875=E2=80=9D.=20

=20

I don=E2=80=99t have access to detailed metric charts but it seems that =
the call size in MM is the same as the external diameter. 0.9=E2=80=9D =
is just under 23MM, but I don=E2=80=99t see that there is an actual 23MM =
tubing on the market.

=20

If it is possible that the pipe was full of water & froze, the pipe =
could have expanded that 0.025=E2=80=9D I=E2=80=99ve had that happen =
when I was in Denver decades ago.

=20

I don=E2=80=99t know what you have, but with only about 0.025=E2=80=9D =
that the fitting would need to be stretched, you might be able to do =
that with a swaging tool, or make something that will do the job.

=20

You might want to check with an old plumber to see what he/she knows.

=20

Are there any markings or brand on the cap you cut off?

=20

Where are you located?

=20

Good luck.

=20

Peace,

Pat

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
john niolon
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 12:08 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus

=20

When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a =
3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put =
in the sink and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I =
got time

=20

I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on =
the tubing.  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit =
over the tubing.  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.  I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...  it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it in =
several places

=20

I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results

=20

tubing i.d. is  .882=E2=80=9D which is just over 7/8=E2=80=9D

tubing o.d. is  .900=E2=80=9D  which is just under 29/32=E2=80=9D

=20

a new standard Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D   which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit =
over .900

=20

if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size =
I=E2=80=99m good to go...

=20

did the old stuff differ from todays standard =E2=80=9C

after researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...

=20

anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing =
and offers little on actual dimensions


thanks

john


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>John, I don=E2=80=99t recall having trouble with old tubing/pipe =
&amp; new fittings. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I just looked up the O.D. of =C2=BE=E2=80=9D pipe &amp; tubing for =
water &amp; it shows to be 1/8=E2=80=9D larger than what the pipe is =
called, so that would be 0.825=E2=80=9D. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>There is another system of copper tubing intended for A/C use. The =
diameters for this tubing is the same as the call size, so 7/8=E2=80=9D =
tubing would measure 0.875=E2=80=9D. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I don=E2=80=99t have access to detailed metric charts but it seems =
that the call size in MM is the same as the external diameter. =
0.9=E2=80=9D is just under 23MM, but I don=E2=80=99t see that there is =
an actual 23MM tubing on the market.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>If it is possible that the pipe was full of water &amp; froze, the =
pipe could have expanded that 0.025=E2=80=9D I=E2=80=99ve had that =
happen when I was in Denver decades ago.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I don=E2=80=99t know what you have, but with only about =
0.025=E2=80=9D that the fitting would need to be stretched, you might be =
able to do that with a swaging tool, or make something that will do the =
job.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>You might want to check with an old plumber to see what he/she =
knows.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Are there any markings or brand on the cap you cut =
off?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Where are you located?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Good luck.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Peace,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Pat<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>john niolon<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 20, 2018 12:08 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> shop-talk<br><b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] need some =
copper plumbing help from the gurus<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>When we built =
my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/4=E2=80=9D =
water line to the shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the =
sink and the outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week =
I got time<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>I cut the cap =
off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fitting the plumbing =
for sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing.&nbsp; =
I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the =
tubing.&nbsp; It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.&nbsp; I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...&nbsp; it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it =
in several places<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>I mic=E2=80=99d =
the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>tubing i.d. =
is&nbsp; .882=E2=80=9D which is just over =
7/8=E2=80=9D<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>tubing o.d. =
is&nbsp; .900=E2=80=9D&nbsp; which is just under =
29/32=E2=80=9D<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>a new standard =
Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D&nbsp;&nbsp; which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit over =
.900<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>if I can find =
one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size I=E2=80=99m good =
to go...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>did the old =
stuff differ from todays standard =
=E2=80=9C<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>after =
researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>anyone wanna =
try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing and offers =
little on actual dimensions<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'><br>thanks<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>john<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01D468BF.35DB6540--


--===============4395560948651883201==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============4395560948651883201==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 03:00:10 2018
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
To: 'john niolon' <jniolon@att.net>, 'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 22:01:31 -0500
Thread-index: AdRo2EA0Bgby9d5mRSC5w3y3aeiABgAEPiIg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============5453033154493696196==
 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0017_01D468C0.775A6790"
Content-language: en-us

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01D468C0.775A6790
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

You might also look for either an adjustable fitting that has a rubber =
seal in it that is used to repair broken/leaking pipes. They have nuts =
on the ends that you tighten until the rubber insert clamps down tight =
enough to seal to the pipe. Be sure to check the pressure rating on the =
fitting.

=20

Another thing that might work is a fitting called a =E2=80=9CShark =
Bite=E2=80=9D. They are intended to work on PEX pipe, hold pressure & =
are used on copper pipe also. Don=E2=80=99t know the play in the =
fitting. I=E2=80=99ve used Shark Bites & have had some trouble with them =
leaking after some time. I wouldn=E2=80=99t put any in locations where =
they are hidden.

=20

BTW, I=E2=80=99ve used deep sockets to swage refrigeration tubing so =
that it would fit over the same size tubing to join two pieces without =
using a coupling. Lucked out that I had a socket the right size!

=20

Peace,

Pat

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
john niolon
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 12:08 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus

=20

When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a =
3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put =
in the sink and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I =
got time

=20

I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on =
the tubing.  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit =
over the tubing.  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.  I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...  it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it in =
several places

=20

I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results

=20

tubing i.d. is  .882=E2=80=9D which is just over 7/8=E2=80=9D

tubing o.d. is  .900=E2=80=9D  which is just under 29/32=E2=80=9D

=20

a new standard Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D   which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit =
over .900

=20

if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size =
I=E2=80=99m good to go...

=20

did the old stuff differ from todays standard =E2=80=9C

after researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...

=20

anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing =
and offers little on actual dimensions


thanks

john


------=_NextPart_000_0017_01D468C0.775A6790
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 12 (filtered =
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>You might also look for either an adjustable fitting that has a =
rubber seal in it that is used to repair broken/leaking pipes. They have =
nuts on the ends that you tighten until the rubber insert clamps down =
tight enough to seal to the pipe. Be sure to check the pressure rating =
on the fitting.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Another thing that might work is a fitting called a =E2=80=9CShark =
Bite=E2=80=9D. They are intended to work on PEX pipe, hold pressure =
&amp; are used on copper pipe also. Don=E2=80=99t know the play in the =
fitting. I=E2=80=99ve used Shark Bites &amp; have had some trouble with =
them leaking after some time. I wouldn=E2=80=99t put any in locations =
where they are hidden.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>BTW, I=E2=80=99ve used deep sockets to swage refrigeration tubing so =
that it would fit over the same size tubing to join two pieces without =
using a coupling. Lucked out that I had a socket the right =
size!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Peace,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Pat<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>john niolon<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 20, 2018 12:08 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> shop-talk<br><b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] need some =
copper plumbing help from the gurus<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>When we built =
my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/4=E2=80=9D =
water line to the shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the =
sink and the outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week =
I got time<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>I cut the cap =
off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fitting the plumbing =
for sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing.&nbsp; =
I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the =
tubing.&nbsp; It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.&nbsp; I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...&nbsp; it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it =
in several places<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>I mic=E2=80=99d =
the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>tubing i.d. =
is&nbsp; .882=E2=80=9D which is just over =
7/8=E2=80=9D<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>tubing o.d. =
is&nbsp; .900=E2=80=9D&nbsp; which is just under =
29/32=E2=80=9D<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>a new standard =
Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D&nbsp;&nbsp; which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit over =
.900<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>if I can find =
one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size I=E2=80=99m good =
to go...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>did the old =
stuff differ from todays standard =
=E2=80=9C<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>after =
researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>anyone wanna =
try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing and offers =
little on actual dimensions<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'><br>thanks<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>john<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============5453033154493696196==--


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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 20:46:17 -0700
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 Dnc9HlNSgKeA2qhU/zAMKOG3XqkDvwuEoXThOvpEgsp9c3frv6v314PKboljCkxDLAo5PtX9O5l2ug==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Have heard--no hard data--that blasting damages the polished coating on 
the ceramic insulator (that's what blasting is for, after all).  I 
think, given how relatively inexpensive plugs are that it's not worth 
the risk.

Bob


On 10/20/2018 9:57 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
>
> Anybody still using spark plug cleaners – such as the small air 
> powered sand blasters of old?
>
> I’m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. – and 
> wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.  I don’t 
> recall that being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I do 
> confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exotic materials.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Al Fuller
>
> '65 BJ-8
>
> '85 Rx-7
>
>


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    <p>Have heard--no hard data--that blasting damages the polished
      coating on the ceramic insulator (that's what blasting is for,
      after all).  I think, given how relatively inexpensive plugs are
      that it's not worth the risk.</p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/20/2018 9:57 AM, Al Fuller wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal">Anybody still using spark plug cleaners –
          such as the small air powered sand blasters of old?<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">I’m looking at plugs for several cars, snow
          blower, etc. – and wondering whether the cleaning is known to
          damage the plugs.  I don’t recall that being an issue when I
          used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs
          seem to be made of more exotic materials.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Thoughts? <o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Al Fuller</span><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">'65 BJ-8</span><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">'85 Rx-7</span><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 07:06:00 -0500
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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> On Oct 20, 2018, at 12:07, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>=20
> When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/4=E2=
=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put in the sin=
k and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I got time
> =20
> I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fitting t=
he plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing.  I=
 cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the tubing.  It=
 looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s=
 coming up thru the concrete.=20

Is it out of round?  That=E2=80=99s a common problem with soft tube.  Plumbe=
rs have rerounding tools for the problem.=20

>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div></div><div><br></div><div><br>On Oct 2=
0, 2018, at 12:07, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolo=
n@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/=
4=E2=80=9D=20
water line to the shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the sink a=
nd=20
the outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week I got time</=
div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fitti=
ng the=20
plumbing for sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing.&=
nbsp; I=20
cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the tubing.&nbsp=
; It=20
looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s c=
oming up thru the=20
concrete.&nbsp;</div></div></div></div></blockquote><div><br></div>Is it out=
 of round? &nbsp;That=E2=80=99s a common problem with soft tube. &nbsp;Plumb=
ers have rerounding tools for the problem.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div><blockqu=
ote type=3D"cite"><div><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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 Sun, 21 Oct 2018 12:33:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
 <288466F4-CE8E-46C5-A0D0-7E39F25ABB1D@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 07:33:50 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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it=E2=80=99s not out of round, Dave.  I mic=E2=80=99d it all the way =
around... and it was within .001 .  Someone mentioned freezing...  this =
pipe did freeze and burst in the past.  but the break was a foot above =
where I=E2=80=99m taking measurements.  That whole foot was removed.  I =
guess it could have expanded the whole section above the floor some.   =
And the section removed is the same diameter as what I=E2=80=99m looking =
at now so that might be a clue..  If my old back and knees will allow =
it, I=E2=80=99m going into the crawl space on the other end of the line =
and check sizes there, gotta do it anyway to turn it back on eventually. =
=20

I talked to an old  plumber as suggested (well, he=E2=80=99s as old as =
me...70=E2=80=99s) and he suggested reaming/swaging the tube and insert =
a short section of standard 3/4 straight pipe and solder it in well.  =
That would get me back to standard sizes.  I think I=E2=80=99m gonna try =
that tomorrow.   The fittings I=E2=80=99m using came from Home =
Depot/Lowes but I also checked some older fittings and they were the =
same measurements...  More to come !

From: David Scheidt=20
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2018 7:06 AM
To: john niolon=20
Cc: shop-talk=20
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus



On Oct 20, 2018, at 12:07, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:


  When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a =
3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put =
in the sink and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I =
got time

  I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on =
the tubing.  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit =
over the tubing.  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.=20

Is it out of round?  That=E2=80=99s a common problem with soft tube.  =
Plumbers have rerounding tools for the problem. =20


------=_NextPart_000_00B2_01D46910.696A62C0
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3Dcontent-type></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>it=E2=80=99s not out of round, Dave.&nbsp; I mic=E2=80=99d it all =
the way around... and it=20
was within .001 .&nbsp; Someone mentioned freezing...&nbsp; this pipe =
did freeze=20
and burst in the past.&nbsp; but the break was a foot above where =
I=E2=80=99m taking=20
measurements.&nbsp; That whole foot was removed.&nbsp; I guess it could =
have=20
expanded the whole section above the floor some.&nbsp;&nbsp; And the =
section=20
removed is the same diameter as what I=E2=80=99m looking at now so that =
might be a=20
clue..&nbsp; If my old back and knees will allow it, I=E2=80=99m going =
into the crawl=20
space on the other end of the line and check sizes there, gotta do it =
anyway to=20
turn it back on eventually.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I talked to an old&nbsp; plumber as suggested (well, he=E2=80=99s =
as old as=20
me...70=E2=80=99s) and he suggested reaming/swaging the tube and insert =
a short section=20
of standard 3/4 straight pipe and solder it in well.&nbsp; That would =
get me=20
back to standard sizes.&nbsp; I think I=E2=80=99m gonna try that =
tomorrow.&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
The fittings I=E2=80=99m using came from Home Depot/Lowes but I also =
checked some older=20
fittings and they were the same measurements...&nbsp; More to come =
!</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Ddmscheidt@gmail.com=20
href=3D"mailto:dmscheidt@gmail.com">David Scheidt</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, October 21, 2018 7:06 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Djniolon@att.net =
href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">john=20
niolon</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=3Dshop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from =
the=20
gurus</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Oct 20, 2018, at 12:07, john niolon &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</A>&gt; =
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
  <DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">
  <DIV>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber =
install a 3/4=E2=80=9D=20
  water line to the shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the =
sink=20
  and the outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week I =
got=20
  time</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the=20
  plumbing for sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the =
tubing.&nbsp; I=20
  cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the =
tubing.&nbsp;=20
  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s =
what=E2=80=99s coming up thru=20
  the concrete. </DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Is it out of round?&nbsp; That=E2=80=99s a common =
problem with soft=20
tube.&nbsp; Plumbers have rerounding tools for the problem.&nbsp;=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 12:14:35 2018
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 Sun, 21 Oct 2018 09:51:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 12:51:28 -0400
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing/re-attaching coax line
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5505581877936810105==

--0000000000006ae8340578bff326

Guys, not particularly shop related, but I trust you guys more than Google.

Hurricane Michael knocked over a tree at the house. That tree ripped the
overhead Concast coax line running to the house. It looks exactly like
you'd think it would--ripped apart on one end.

The other end has a connector on it. Looks like the push version of what
you connect to the t.v. box in the house

Can I trim the ends and install a new connector on the ripped-off end and
connect them? If so, anything I find on Google will do?

Thanks.

Scott

--0000000000006ae8340578bff326
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Guys, not particularly shop related, but I trust you guys=
 more than Google.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Hurricane M=
ichael knocked over a tree at the house. That tree ripped the overhead Conc=
ast coax line running to the house. It looks exactly like you&#39;d think i=
t would--ripped apart on one end.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">The other end has a connector on it. Looks like the push version =
of what you connect to the t.v. box in the house=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Can I trim the ends and install a new connec=
tor on the ripped-off end and connect them? If so, anything I find on Googl=
e will do?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks.</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div></div>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============5505581877936810105==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 14:35:15 2018
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
 <004363d1-0fe4-e031-715f-3869ccd45498@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 14:16:27 -0400
Thread-Index: AQKL1SJ8Vc4+kHye76xv3JjC34rBgwGKD70/o67ZSbA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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True - the plugs for the snow blower are between $5-10.00 each here, likely
cheaper on Amazon. 

 

Thanks all.

 

Al Fuller

 

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

 

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 11:46 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner

 

Have heard--no hard data--that blasting damages the polished coating on the
ceramic insulator (that's what blasting is for, after all).  I think, given
how relatively inexpensive plugs are that it's not worth the risk.

Bob

 

On 10/20/2018 9:57 AM, Al Fuller wrote:

Anybody still using spark plug cleaners - such as the small air powered sand
blasters of old?

 

I'm looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. - and wondering
whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.  I don't recall that
being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newer
plugs seem to be made of more exotic materials.

 

Thoughts? 

 

Al Fuller

 

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

 





 

 


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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>True &#8211; the plugs for the snow blower are =
between $5-10.00 each here, likely cheaper on Amazon&#8230; =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Thanks =
all.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Al Fuller</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'65 BJ-8</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'85 Rx-7</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Shop-talk =
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob =
Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 20, 2018 11:46 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>Have heard--no hard data--that =
blasting damages the polished coating on the ceramic insulator (that's =
what blasting is for, after all).&nbsp; I think, given how relatively =
inexpensive plugs are that it's not worth the risk.<span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p>Bob<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
10/20/2018 9:57 AM, Al Fuller wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Anybody still using spark plug cleaners &#8211; such =
as the small air powered sand blasters of old?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I&#8217;m =
looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. &#8211; and =
wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.&nbsp; I =
don&#8217;t recall that being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I =
do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exotic =
materials.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thoughts? <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Al Fuller</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'65 =
BJ-8</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'85 Rx-7</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><=
/blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 14:51:52 2018
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
 <OFCA1951A1.53F183E9-ON8525832D.0007D13F-8525832D.0007F79B@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 14:17:19 -0400
Thread-Index: AQKL1SJ8Vc4+kHye76xv3JjC34rBgwFbTJ8Po7BPyDA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
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Thanks Eric- I will keep in mind the Al Oxide if I clean them.

 

Al Fuller

 

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

 

From: eric@megageek.com [mailto:eric@megageek.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 9:27 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Cc: Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner

 

Al, 

I use the cleaner anytime I remove a plug that I plan to put back.   Its
normally on small engines however. 

One note, I actually use a spot sandblaster that has the perfect hole size
for most plugs.  I use Al oxide for media. 

Never had a problem. 


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson 


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class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Thanks Eric- I will keep in mind the Al Oxide if I clean =
them&#8230;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Al Fuller</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'85 Rx-7</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
eric@megageek.com [mailto:eric@megageek.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, =
October 20, 2018 9:27 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Cc:</b> Al Fuller =
&lt;al@bighealey.org&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug =
Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Al,</span> =
<br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><br>I use the =
cleaner anytime I remove a plug that I plan to put back. &nbsp; Its =
normally on small engines however.</span> <br><br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>One note, I =
actually use a spot sandblaster that has the perfect hole size for most =
plugs. &nbsp;I use Al oxide for media.</span> <br><br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Never had a =
problem.</span> <br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><br><br>Sent =
from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>Tech Viper<br>&quot;Be as =
beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being =
are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph =
Waldo Emerson </span><o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============9149392931011668848==--



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 15:51:48 2018
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 (envelope-from <bk13@earthlink.net>)
 id 1gEIX9-0005Rf-FD; Sun, 21 Oct 2018 14:33:03 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u4_99msoDw1HFQKsHCxhiR7a2vofsnfy5NwcotCrqsgTA@mail.gmail.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 11:31:50 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/52.9.1
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing/re-attaching coax line
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============5960070635394856982==
 boundary="------------F875EFA6EFA9BACF1FB2EEFF"
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--------------F875EFA6EFA9BACF1FB2EEFF
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Sure.Â  Note that the connectors the cable company uses will likely be 
better quality than what you might find at the local store.Â  I'd say you 
can get by, at least short term doing it yourself.Â  Take your time and 
follow the directions carefully.Â  Make sure you don't have any of the 
grounding sheath touching the center conductor.

You may want to follow-up with the cable company when things return to 
normal for them to install a high quality weather resistant connector.

There is the possibility that the tree falling stretched the cable and 
broke the center conductor.Â  I'd also look closely at the part the 
broken end attached to for any signs of it stretching.

Brian

On 10/21/2018 9:51 AM, Scott Hall wrote:
> Guys, not particularly shop related, but I trust you guys more than 
> Google.
>
> Hurricane Michael knocked over a tree at the house. That tree ripped 
> the overhead Concast coax line running to the house. It looks exactly 
> like you'd think it would--ripped apart on one end.
>
> The other end has a connector on it. Looks like the push version of 
> what you connect to the t.v. box in the house
>
> Can I trim the ends and install a new connector on the ripped-off end 
> and connect them? If so, anything I find on Google will do?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>


--------------F875EFA6EFA9BACF1FB2EEFF
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    Sure.Â  Note that the connectors the cable company uses will likely
    be better quality than what you might find at the local store.Â  I'd
    say you can get by, at least short term doing it yourself.Â  Take
    your time and follow the directions carefully.Â  Make sure you don't
    have any of the grounding sheath touching the center conductor.<br>
    <br>
    You may want to follow-up with the cable company when things return
    to normal for them to install a high quality weather resistant
    connector.<br>
    <br>
    There is the possibility that the tree falling stretched the cable
    and broke the center conductor.Â  I'd also look closely at the part
    the broken end attached to for any signs of it stretching.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/2018 9:51 AM, Scott Hall
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAK73_u4_99msoDw1HFQKsHCxhiR7a2vofsnfy5NwcotCrqsgTA@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div dir="auto">Guys, not particularly shop related, but I trust
        you guys more than Google.
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Hurricane Michael knocked over a tree at the
          house. That tree ripped the overhead Concast coax line running
          to the house. It looks exactly like you'd think it
          would--ripped apart on one end.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">The other end has a connector on it. Looks like
          the push version of what you connect to the t.v. box in the
          houseÂ </div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Can I trim the ends and install a new connector
          on the ripped-off end and connect them? If so, anything I find
          on Google will do?</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Thanks.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Scott</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============5960070635394856982==--

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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 14:00:04 -0500
References: <CAK73_u4_99msoDw1HFQKsHCxhiR7a2vofsnfy5NwcotCrqsgTA@mail.gmail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing/re-attaching coax line
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References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
 <004363d1-0fe4-e031-715f-3869ccd45498@comcast.net>
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 12:21:16 -0700
To: bspidell@comcast.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4485107143023351758==

--000000000000a275d00578c21191
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I have one of them and they  do work well.  They used to make sense back in
the day when lead would leave deposits, carbs would run rich and points
would burn, weak spark, etc., resulting in good, relatively new plugs that
were sooted or covered with lead deposits.  Also, if you had two-strokes,
they tended to foul plugs.

With modern ignitions and lead-free gas, plugs last a very, very long time,
and they probably are worn by the time that they get dirty, if they ever
get dirty. I also have read that sandblasting will round-off the sharp
edges, resulting in less efficient sparking surfaces (I do not know if that
is true).

Of course, the big bugaboo is the potential of leaving some sand/grit on
the plug and inserting it into your cylinder to scratch the bore.

I think the last time I used my spark plug blaster was to clean a lawnmower
plug or a chainsaw plug that sooted out.  It is always there, though, if I
needed to put a vehicle on the road and I do not have a plug to do it.  :-)

Best,

doug
BSA B50SS

On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 2:57 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Have heard--no hard data--that blasting damages the polished coating on
> the ceramic insulator (that's what blasting is for, after all).  I think,
> given how relatively inexpensive plugs are that it's not worth the risk.
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/20/2018 9:57 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
>
> Anybody still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air p=
owered
> sand blasters of old?
>
>
>
> I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =E2=80=
=93 and wondering
> whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.  I don=E2=80=99t recal=
l that
> being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newe=
r
> plugs seem to be made of more exotic materials.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> '65 BJ-8
>
> '85 Rx-7
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com
>
>

--000000000000a275d00578c21191
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I have one of them and they=C2=A0 do work well.=C2=A0 They=
 used to make sense back in the day when lead would leave deposits, carbs w=
ould run rich and points would burn, weak spark, etc., resulting in good, r=
elatively new plugs that were sooted or covered with lead deposits.=C2=A0 A=
lso, if you had two-strokes, they tended to foul plugs.<div><br></div><div>=
With modern ignitions and lead-free gas, plugs last a very, very long time,=
 and they probably are worn by the time that they get dirty, if they ever g=
et dirty. I also have read that sandblasting will round-off the sharp edges=
, resulting in less efficient sparking surfaces (I do not know if that is t=
rue).</div><div><br></div><div>Of course, the big bugaboo is the potential =
of leaving some sand/grit on the plug and inserting it into your cylinder t=
o scratch the bore.</div><div><br></div><div>I think the last time I used m=
y spark plug blaster was to clean a lawnmower plug or a chainsaw plug that =
sooted out.=C2=A0 It is always there, though, if I needed to put a vehicle =
on the road and I do not have a plug to do it.=C2=A0 :-)</div><div><br></di=
v><div>Best,</div><div><br></div><div>doug</div><div>BSA B50SS</div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 2:57=
 AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcas=
t.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"ma=
rgin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF">
    <p>Have heard--no hard data--that blasting damages the polished
      coating on the ceramic insulator (that&#39;s what blasting is for,
      after all).=C2=A0 I think, given how relatively inexpensive plugs are
      that it&#39;s not worth the risk.</p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class=3D"m_614734267398438274moz-cite-prefix">On 10/20/2018 9:57 A=
M, Al Fuller wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
     =20
      <div class=3D"m_614734267398438274WordSection1">
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anybody still using spark plug cleaners =E2=
=80=93
          such as the small air powered sand blasters of old?<u></u><u></u>=
</p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal">I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several car=
s, snow
          blower, etc. =E2=80=93 and wondering whether the cleaning is know=
n to
          damage the plugs.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issu=
e when I
          used them years ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs
          seem to be made of more exotic materials.<u></u><u></u></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thoughts? <u></u><u></u></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f497d">Al Fuller</spa=
n><span><u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f497d">&#39;65 BJ-8</=
span><span><u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1f497d">&#39;85 Rx-7</=
span><span><u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <pre>
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@live.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@live.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.6337.1540090917.1896.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 17:10:45 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] copper tubing/piping question.
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2018 06:31:58 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
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Even after all the other comments, I'd still be leery of that piece of 
pipe. The wall thickness of 0.009" won't hold much pressure, even if you 
are successful in attaching to it.

Donald.

--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 20-Oct-2018 13:07, john niolon wrote:
> When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/4â€ 
> water line to the shop and cap it off.Â  I was going to put in the sink 
> and the outside faucet when I got time.Â  Well,Â  this week I got time
> I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4â€ Tee to start dry fitting the 
> plumbing for sink/faucet.Â  The Tee wouldnâ€™t fit on the tubing.Â  I cleaned 
> it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the tubing.Â  It looks 
> like he used coiled tubing, or at least thatâ€™s whatâ€™s coming up thru the 
> concrete.Â  I tried several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see 
> if it was crimped or out of round...Â  it micâ€™d the same all the way 
> around it in several places
> I micâ€™d the tubing and the fitting and hereâ€™s the results
> tubing i.d. isÂ  .882â€ which is just over 7/8â€
> tubing o.d. isÂ  .900â€Â  which is just under 29/32â€
> a new standard Tee i.d.is .876â€Â Â  which ainâ€™t gonna fit over .900
> if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4â€ size Iâ€™m good to go...
> did the old stuff differ from todays standard â€œ
> after researching fittings a little I see that there are several â€˜typesâ€ 
> of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to whatever...
> anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing 
> and offers little on actual dimensions
>
> thanks
> john
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker@comcast.net
>


--------------7927C3B6AF320A9EF76410F9
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Even after all the other comments, I'd still be leery of that
      piece of pipe. The wall thickness of 0.009" won't hold much
      pressure, even if you are successful in attaching to it.</p>
    <p>Donald.<br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="75">--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml">&lt;http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml&gt;</a></pre>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 20-Oct-2018 13:07, john niolon
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR:
          #000000">
          <div>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the
            plumber install a 3/4â€ water line to the shop and cap it
            off.Â  I was going to put in the sink and the outside faucet
            when I got time.Â  Well,Â  this week I got time</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4â€ Tee to start dry
            fitting the plumbing for sink/faucet.Â  The Tee wouldnâ€™t fit
            on the tubing.Â  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too
            small to fit over the tubing.Â  It looks like he used coiled
            tubing, or at least thatâ€™s whatâ€™s coming up thru the
            concrete.Â  I tried several fittings and even cut the tubing
            lower to see if it was crimped or out of round...Â  it micâ€™d
            the same all the way around it in several places</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>I micâ€™d the tubing and the fitting and hereâ€™s the results</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>tubing i.d. isÂ  .882â€ which is just over 7/8â€</div>
          <div>tubing o.d. isÂ  .900â€Â  which is just under 29/32â€</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>a new standard Tee i.d.is .876â€Â Â  which ainâ€™t gonna fit
            over .900</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4â€
            size Iâ€™m good to go...</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>did the old stuff differ from todays standard â€œ</div>
          <div>after researching fittings a little I see that there are
            several â€˜typesâ€ of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to
            whatever...</div>
          <div>Â </div>
          <div>anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the
            net is confusing and offers little on actual dimensions</div>
          <div><br>
            thanks</div>
          <div>john</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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 engine=8.0.1-1807170000 definitions=main-1810220120
 definitions=2018-10-22_08:,, signatures=0
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
To: 'Donald H Locker' <dhlocker@comcast.net>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
 <5f36ef1a-d200-5fbf-4d20-33aa13dcc36b@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2018 08:50:16 -0500
Thread-index: AdRqAZlMk2butrkORaqmfw/m+fa9+wADEE9A
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Good point. If the pipe can=E2=80=99t be replaced, at least install a =
pressure reducer to drop the pressure to about 25 PSI. The reason I =
recommend 25 is that it is the pressure used in RVs so regulators are =
cheap & easy to find.

=20

Peace,

Pat

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Donald H Locker
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2018 5:32 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus

=20

Even after all the other comments, I'd still be leery of that piece of =
pipe. The wall thickness of 0.009" won't hold much pressure, even if you =
are successful in attaching to it.

Donald.

--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\  <http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml> =
<http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

On 20-Oct-2018 13:07, john niolon wrote:

When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a =
3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put =
in the sink and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I =
got time

=20

I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry =
fitting the plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on =
the tubing.  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit =
over the tubing.  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.  I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...  it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it in =
several places

=20

I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results

=20

tubing i.d. is  .882=E2=80=9D which is just over 7/8=E2=80=9D

tubing o.d. is  .900=E2=80=9D  which is just under 29/32=E2=80=9D

=20

a new standard Tee i.d.is .876=E2=80=9D   which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit =
over .900

=20

if I can find one fitting to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size =
I=E2=80=99m good to go...

=20

did the old stuff differ from todays standard =E2=80=9C

after researching fittings a little I see that there are several =
=E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...

=20

anyone wanna try and give me some guidance here... the net is confusing =
and offers little on actual dimensions


thanks

john






_______________________________________________
=20
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker@comcast.net
=20

=20


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Good point. If the pipe can=E2=80=99t be replaced, at least install a =
pressure reducer to drop the pressure to about 25 PSI. The reason I =
recommend 25 is that it is the pressure used in RVs so regulators are =
cheap &amp; easy to find.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Peace,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Pat<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf =
Of </b>Donald H Locker<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 22, 2018 5:32 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the =
gurus<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>Even after all the other =
comments, I'd still be leery of that piece of pipe. The wall thickness =
of 0.009&quot; won't hold much pressure, even if you are successful in =
attaching to =
it.<o:p></o:p></p><p>Donald.<o:p></o:p></p><pre>--<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>*=
Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>() =
no proprietary attachments; no html mail<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>/\ <a =
href=3D"http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml">&lt;htt=
p://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml&gt;</a><o:p></o:p><=
/pre><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 20-Oct-2018 13:07, john niolon =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>When we built my house/shop =
25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/4=E2=80=9D water line to the =
shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the sink and the =
outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week I got =
time<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I cut the cap off and test =
fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fitting the plumbing for =
sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing.&nbsp; I =
cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the =
tubing.&nbsp; It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least =
that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s coming up thru the concrete.&nbsp; I tried =
several fittings and even cut the tubing lower to see if it was crimped =
or out of round...&nbsp; it mic=E2=80=99d the same all the way around it =
in several places<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I mic=E2=80=99d the tubing =
and the fitting and here=E2=80=99s the =
results<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>tubing i.d. is&nbsp; =
.882=E2=80=9D which is just over =
7/8=E2=80=9D<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>tubing o.d. is&nbsp; =
.900=E2=80=9D&nbsp; which is just under =
29/32=E2=80=9D<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>a new standard Tee i.d.is =
.876=E2=80=9D&nbsp;&nbsp; which ain=E2=80=99t gonna fit over =
.900<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>if I can find one fitting =
to get this to standard 3/4=E2=80=9D size I=E2=80=99m good to =
go...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>did the old stuff differ =
from todays standard =E2=80=9C<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>after researching fittings =
a little I see that there are several =E2=80=98types=E2=80=9D of =
fittings.... from plumbing to hvac to =
whatever...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>anyone wanna try and give =
me some guidance here... the net is confusing and offers little on =
actual dimensions<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><br>thanks<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>john<o:p></o:p></span></p></=
div></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________=
________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre=
><a =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><o:p=
></o:p></pre><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 =
$12.96<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipe=
rmail/shop-talk</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>Unsu=
bscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker@comcast.=
net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker@comcast.net=
</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre></blockquote><p =
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
 <CANuE7YAOfB_=T+FOEzUUUSe8S8cE54z3CiQWndzwDz0M59cYpQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2018 09:58:31 -0400
Thread-Index: AQKL1SJ8Vc4+kHye76xv3JjC34rBgwLQAiGAAoH/BpijkeQNYA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
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Wow =E2=80=93 thanks Karl =E2=80=93 lots of info there!!  Makes me feel =
much better prepared to make an informed decision around all my plugs.

=20

Al Fuller

=20

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

=20

From: Karl Vacek [mailto:stearman809@gmail.com]=20
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2018 6:21 PM
To: 'John Innis' <jdinnis@gmail.com>; 'Al Fuller' <al@bighealey.org>
Cc: 'shop-talk' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner

=20

Answers here to many things you didn=E2=80=99t ask about=E2=80=A6  About =
aircraft plugs, where blasting is the most common, but mostly applicable =
to car and small-engine plugs as well.  FWIW, I=E2=80=99ve been blasting =
car plugs since the 60=E2=80=99s and aircraft plugs since the =
70=E2=80=99s.

=20

Blasting is still used on most aircraft plugs, same as ever.  Aviation =
plugs cost $25-$50-$75 apiece and up, depending on type and how much of =
a bargain hunter you are.  No big sales at the local auto parts store.  =
Very few owners replace plugs at every Annual or 100-hour inspection.  =
Piston aircraft engines have 2 plugs per cylinder, and flat engines most =
commonly have 4 or 6 cylinders.  Radial engines usually have 7 or 9 =
cylinders (or 3 or 5 on some antiques), and the really big ones have =
multiple rows of 7 or 9 cylinders.  Lots of plugs.

=20

The two largest aviation spark plug manufacturers, Champion and Tempest =
(originally AC) both publish blasting instructions and sell plug =
blasting/testing machines.  Quite obviously they approve.  Like a =
majority of individuals working mainly on their own planes, I =
don=E2=80=99t have one of these $1,000 to $1,500 machines.  The =
=E2=80=9CVixen=E2=80=9D brand one that most auto parts stores still sell =
for under $20 works just fine.  It doesn=E2=80=99t have the impressive =
pressure-tester where you see the spark jumping while the plug is under =
pressure, but that test isn=E2=80=99t really helpful 99.9% of the time =
as long as you do a good job of cleaning.

=20

As far as abrasive, I use a garnet abrasive because it indeed breaks =
down and exposes fresh sharp edges.   Most auto parts stores sell little =
bags specifically for use in plug blasters.  And if a garnet particle =
gets into the engine despite careful magnified inspection as part of my =
reconditioning, that particle won=E2=80=99t do as much damage as =
aluminum oxide.  But it=E2=80=99s probably not critical as long as you =
get all the abrasive out in the first place before reinstalling the =
plug.  Either way, abrasive is cheap to buy and lasts through many many =
plugs.

=20

There isn=E2=80=99t actually a shiny coating or glaze on the center or =
nose insulator, and the ceramic itself isn=E2=80=99t degraded much by =
normal light blasting.  What the aviation plug manufacturers DO caution =
about, however, it to avoid eroding the cement that holds the center =
electrode into the insulator.  With extended blasting the cement erodes =
and a well develops around the center electrode.  Not sure how bad it =
needs to get to be an issue =E2=80=93 I have some plugs with slight =
erosion and they work fine, don=E2=80=99t foul notably different than =
new ones, etc.

=20

To get the initial carbon off (because its=E2=80=99 a really slow =
process to blast 14 plugs completely without doing some initial carbon =
removal), I first use Hoppe=E2=80=99s #9.  Just set the plugs upside =
down in a rack and drop in enough Hoppe=E2=80=99s to fill the plug =
interior.  Wait an hour (15 minutes is actually enough most times), dump =
out the Hoppe=E2=80=99s, and  spray carb cleaner or Brakleen into the =
plug to get much of the carbon out.  Then blow dry, and then blast.  =
Speeds up the process immensely, especially getting the deep carbon out =
or at least softened.

=20

While cleaning, some of the carbon inside the plug=E2=80=99s outer steel =
shell is hard to remove.  Champion (etc.) sells a plug cutter tool =
that=E2=80=99s like a tiny curved saw blade, made to fit  into a =
vibrating engraver-type tool.  That makes fast work of the excess carbon =
around the outside.  Carbon on the center insulator usually comes off =
pretty easily.  Once you think you=E2=80=99re pretty much done.. you =
visually inspect the inside for missed deposits and any remaining =
abrasive.  A dental pick helps there.

=20

The other thing that=E2=80=99s important in reconditioning aviation =
plugs is to check the resistance.  There=E2=80=99s a resistor in =
virtually every modern aircraft plug, not for RF suppression but for =
good running.  If the resistance decreases (it can over time) the plug =
will develop a misfire.  RF suppression is handled by shielding of the =
magnetos, cables, and the plugs themselves, which have a heavy steel =
outer case.  You never even see the ceramic outside like you do on an =
automotive plug (except for unshielded aircraft plugs, which are =
increasingly rare).

=20

Massive electrode plugs have a large center electrode and (usually two) =
large side electrodes that are shaped to surround the center electrode.  =
The side electrodes can be bent in and out to set the gap.  While plug =
inspection and cleaning is part of every 100-hour and annual inspection, =
blasting can in time round off the edges of the electrodes and make the =
plugs less efficient, as the primary area for sparking to begin is at =
the sharp edges.  I=E2=80=99ve taken an ignition file to the tops of my =
electrodes a few times on older plugs to remove some of the =
blasting-induced rounding.  They look better, but I=E2=80=99m not sure =
it makes lots of difference in running.

=20

Plug manufacturers don=E2=80=99t recommend blasting on =
=E2=80=9Cfine-wire=E2=80=9D plugs, which are similar to platinum, etc. =
automotive plugs except the side electrode is a thin piece of platinum =
or iridium.  Those come pre-gapped and all you=E2=80=99re supposed to do =
is verify the gap, and if it=E2=80=99s incorrect replace the plug.  At =
$75 apiece minimum.  But they don=E2=80=99t foul much, which is why =
they=E2=80=99re used, and they last a long time.

=20

Final caveat.  Shielded aviation plugs are all heavy steel on the =
outside.  All the ceramic is inside.  If you drop one, it looks fine.  =
Even after carefully inspecting it, all the ceramic looks fine every =
time.

=20

But there=E2=80=99s an old aircraft mechanic=E2=80=99s saying that you =
only drop a plug twice.  First time on the floor, and the second time =
into the garbage can.  I=E2=80=99ve violated that a few times, but =
75-80% of the time the plug is either bad immediately or goes bad =
quickly =E2=80=93 within a few hours at most.  I=E2=80=99ve marked the =
plugs I=E2=80=99ve dropped and attempted to reuse, but after a few times =
realizing that the old saying is right, I haven=E2=80=99t reused any =
more dropped plugs.  A bad miss or worse really gets your attention in =
the air.

=20

Have a blast !!

=20

Karl

=20

=20

=20

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
John Innis
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 8:02 PM
To: Al Fuller
Cc: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner

=20

Only time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs.  Auto and small =
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away.  Aircraft plugs also have =
"massive" electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit more material =
loss.

=20

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org =

Anybody still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air =
powered sand blasters of old?

=20

I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =
=E2=80=93 and wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the =
plugs.  I don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them =
years ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more =
exotic materials.

=20

Thoughts?=20

=20

Al Fuller

=20

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

=20

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com



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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Wow =E2=80=93 thanks Karl =E2=80=93 lots of info there!!=C2=A0 Makes me =
feel much better prepared to make an informed decision around all my =
plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Al Fuller</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'85 Rx-7</span><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Karl Vacek [mailto:stearman809@gmail.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, =
October 21, 2018 6:21 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'John Innis' =
&lt;jdinnis@gmail.com&gt;; 'Al Fuller' =
&lt;al@bighealey.org&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> 'shop-talk' =
&lt;Shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Shop-talk] =
Spark Plug Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Answers here to many things you didn=E2=80=99t ask about=E2=80=A6&nbsp; =
About aircraft plugs, where blasting is the most common, but mostly =
applicable to car and small-engine plugs as well.&nbsp; FWIW, =
I=E2=80=99ve been blasting car plugs since the 60=E2=80=99s and aircraft =
plugs since the 70=E2=80=99s.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Blasting is still used on most aircraft plugs, same as ever.&nbsp; =
Aviation plugs cost $25-$50-$75 apiece and up, depending on type and how =
much of a bargain hunter you are.&nbsp; No big sales at the local auto =
parts store.&nbsp; Very few owners replace plugs at every Annual or =
100-hour inspection.&nbsp; Piston aircraft engines have 2 plugs per =
cylinder, and flat engines most commonly have 4 or 6 cylinders.&nbsp; =
Radial engines usually have 7 or 9 cylinders (or 3 or 5 on some =
antiques), and the really big ones have multiple rows of 7 or 9 =
cylinders.&nbsp; Lots of plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>The two largest aviation spark plug manufacturers, Champion and Tempest =
(originally AC) both publish blasting instructions and sell plug =
blasting/testing machines.&nbsp; Quite obviously they approve.&nbsp; =
Like a majority of individuals working mainly on their own planes, I =
don=E2=80=99t have one of these $1,000 to $1,500 machines.&nbsp; The =
=E2=80=9CVixen=E2=80=9D brand one that most auto parts stores still sell =
for under $20 works just fine. &nbsp;It doesn=E2=80=99t have the =
impressive pressure-tester where you see the spark jumping while the =
plug is under pressure, but that test isn=E2=80=99t really helpful 99.9% =
of the time as long as you do a good job of =
cleaning.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>As far as abrasive, I use a garnet abrasive because it indeed breaks =
down and exposes fresh sharp edges.&nbsp; &nbsp;Most auto parts stores =
sell little bags specifically for use in plug blasters.&nbsp; And if a =
garnet particle gets into the engine despite careful magnified =
inspection as part of my reconditioning, that particle won=E2=80=99t do =
as much damage as aluminum oxide.&nbsp; But it=E2=80=99s probably not =
critical as long as you get all the abrasive out in the first place =
before reinstalling the plug.&nbsp; Either way, abrasive is cheap to buy =
and lasts through many many plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>There isn=E2=80=99t actually a shiny coating or glaze on the center or =
nose insulator, and the ceramic itself isn=E2=80=99t degraded much by =
normal light blasting.&nbsp; What the aviation plug manufacturers DO =
caution about, however, it to avoid eroding the cement that holds the =
center electrode into the insulator.&nbsp; With extended blasting the =
cement erodes and a well develops around the center electrode.&nbsp; Not =
sure how bad it needs to get to be an issue =E2=80=93 I have some plugs =
with slight erosion and they work fine, don=E2=80=99t foul notably =
different than new ones, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>To get the initial carbon off (because its=E2=80=99 a really slow =
process to blast 14 plugs completely without doing some initial carbon =
removal), I first use Hoppe=E2=80=99s #9.&nbsp; Just set the plugs =
upside down in a rack and drop in enough Hoppe=E2=80=99s to fill the =
plug interior.&nbsp; Wait an hour (15 minutes is actually enough most =
times), dump out the Hoppe=E2=80=99s, and &nbsp;spray carb cleaner or =
Brakleen into the plug to get much of the carbon out.&nbsp; Then blow =
dry, and then blast.&nbsp; Speeds up the process immensely, especially =
getting the deep carbon out or at least =
softened.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>While cleaning, some of the carbon inside the plug=E2=80=99s outer =
steel shell is hard to remove.&nbsp; Champion (etc.) sells a plug cutter =
tool that=E2=80=99s like a tiny curved saw blade, made to fit&nbsp; into =
a vibrating engraver-type tool.&nbsp; That makes fast work of the excess =
carbon around the outside.&nbsp; Carbon on the center insulator usually =
comes off pretty easily.&nbsp; Once you think you=E2=80=99re pretty much =
done.. you visually inspect the inside for missed deposits and any =
remaining abrasive.&nbsp; A dental pick helps =
there.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>The other thing that=E2=80=99s important in reconditioning aviation =
plugs is to check the resistance.&nbsp; There=E2=80=99s a resistor in =
virtually every modern aircraft plug, not for RF suppression but for =
good running.&nbsp; If the resistance decreases (it can over time) the =
plug will develop a misfire.&nbsp; RF suppression is handled by =
shielding of the magnetos, cables, and the plugs themselves, which have =
a heavy steel outer case.&nbsp; You never even see the ceramic outside =
like you do on an automotive plug (except for unshielded aircraft plugs, =
which are increasingly rare).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Massive electrode plugs have a large center electrode and (usually two) =
large side electrodes that are shaped to surround the center =
electrode.&nbsp; The side electrodes can be bent in and out to set the =
gap.&nbsp; While plug inspection and cleaning is part of every 100-hour =
and annual inspection, blasting can in time round off the edges of the =
electrodes and make the plugs less efficient, as the primary area for =
sparking to begin is at the sharp edges.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve taken an =
ignition file to the tops of my electrodes a few times on older plugs to =
remove some of the blasting-induced rounding.&nbsp; They look better, =
but I=E2=80=99m not sure it makes lots of difference in =
running.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Plug manufacturers don=E2=80=99t recommend blasting on =
=E2=80=9Cfine-wire=E2=80=9D plugs, which are similar to platinum, etc. =
automotive plugs except the side electrode is a thin piece of platinum =
or iridium.&nbsp; Those come pre-gapped and all you=E2=80=99re supposed =
to do is verify the gap, and if it=E2=80=99s incorrect replace the =
plug.&nbsp; At $75 apiece minimum. &nbsp;But they don=E2=80=99t foul =
much, which is why they=E2=80=99re used, and they last a long =
time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Final caveat.&nbsp; Shielded aviation plugs are all heavy steel on the =
outside.&nbsp; All the ceramic is inside.&nbsp; If you drop one, it =
looks fine.&nbsp; Even after carefully inspecting it, all the ceramic =
looks fine every time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>But there=E2=80=99s an old aircraft mechanic=E2=80=99s saying that you =
only drop a plug twice.&nbsp; First time on the floor, and the second =
time into the garbage can.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve violated that a few times, =
but 75-80% of the time the plug is either bad immediately or goes bad =
quickly =E2=80=93 within a few hours at most.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve marked =
the plugs I=E2=80=99ve dropped and attempted to reuse, but after a few =
times realizing that the old saying is right, I haven=E2=80=99t reused =
any more dropped plugs.&nbsp; A bad miss or worse really gets your =
attention in the air.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Have a blast !!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Karl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>From:</span></=
b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk [<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:shop-talk-bounces=
@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>John Innis<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Saturday, October 20, 2018 8:02 PM<br><b>To:</b> Al Fuller<br><b>Cc:</b> =
shop-talk<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug =
Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Only =
time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs.&nbsp; Auto and small =
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away.&nbsp; Aircraft plugs also =
have &quot;massive&quot; electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit =
more material loss.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:al@bighealey.org">al@bighealey.org</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Anybody =
still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air powered =
sand blasters of old?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I=E2=80=99m =
looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =E2=80=93 and =
wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.&nbsp; I =
don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them years ago, nut =
I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exotic =
materials.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Thoughts? =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Al Fuller</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'65 BJ-8</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'85 Rx-7</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>Archive: <a =
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bscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com=
" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis=
@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><br =
clear=3Dall><br>-- <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people =
with style when you&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- =
Sam Brown&nbsp; =
=3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html=
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 21:12:18 2018
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2018 19:36:36 -0600
User-Agent: K-9 Mail for Android
References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org>,
 'Shop-Talk List' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
 a9TT3sUZa6fywzkHbDLAn4LhFuQ/oB6XBXJLDgvZn31xuC+iCsXsyLRfyE8gpUVjBsH2jtICYaBb4dAWj/rRRxTFiKKtzKU4zZaTB/j9jcTo7vi4VjnZWP3r
 Q4li33QaDepe4m5iJsWQp5aq0t5DQ3CD4r5390ug6gg=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3182235823752599271==
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------LCT4M05G5LTW3LOD3ZB8QCXQP2ZRYX
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If I had one, I'd probably use it=2E No danger to the plug AFAIK, but I wor=
ry about a piece of grit getting caught where I can't see it, then later fa=
lling out in the cylinder=2E=20

What I do instead is to spray it with carb cleaner, then immediately start=
 heating with a propane torch=2E The carb cleaner will burn off, but keep h=
eating until there is no trace of yellow in the flame=2E Obviously use plie=
rs or tongs to hold the plug=2E  The result won't look new, but it will run=
=2E
-- Randall

On 20 October 2018 10:57:06 GMT-06:00, Al Fuller <al@bighealey=2Eorg> wrot=
e:
>Anybody still using spark plug cleaners - such as the small air powered
>sand
>blasters of old?
>
>=20
>
>I'm looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc=2E - and
>wondering
>whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs=2E  I don't recall that
>being an issue when I used them years ago, nut I do confess that the
>newer
>plugs seem to be made of more exotic materials=2E
>
>=20
>
>Thoughts?=20
>
>=20
>
>Al Fuller
>
>=20
>
>'65 BJ-8
>
>'85 Rx-7
>
>=20

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-micr=
osoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas=2Emicrosoft=2Ecom/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns=3D"h=
ttp://www=2Ew3=2Eorg/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type"=
 content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3D"Generator" content=
=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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	margin:1=2E0in 1=2E0in 1=2E0in 1=2E0in;}
div=2EWordSection1
	{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#056=
3C1" vlink=3D"#954F72">If I had one, I'd probably use it=2E No danger to th=
e plug AFAIK, but I worry about a piece of grit getting caught where I can'=
t see it, then later falling out in the cylinder=2E <br><br>What I do inste=
ad is to spray it with carb cleaner, then immediately start heating with a =
propane torch=2E The carb cleaner will burn off, but keep heating until the=
re is no trace of yellow in the flame=2E Obviously use pliers or tongs to h=
old the plug=2E  The result won't look new, but it will run=2E<br>-- Randal=
l<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 20 October 2018 10:57:06 GMT-06:00, =
Al Fuller &lt;al@bighealey=2Eorg&gt; wrote:<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote=
" style=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204=
, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anybody still using spa=
rk plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air powered sand blasters of o=
ld?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"M=
soNormal">I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc=
=2E =E2=80=93 and wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plu=
gs=2E&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them yea=
rs ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exoti=
c materials=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal">Thoughts? <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">Al Full=
er</span><span style=3D"font-size:12=2E0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New Roma=
n&quot;,serif;color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:12=2E0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,seri=
f;color:black"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span sty=
le=3D"color:#1F497D">'65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D"font-size:12=2E0pt;font-=
family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p=
><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">'85 Rx-7</span><span =
style=3D"font-size:12=2E0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif;c=
olor:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/p></div></blockquote></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 22:00:44 2018
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 09:55:11 -0500
References: <A3886B2DAC134C4AB228E7406C840381@Johnsdesktop>
 <288466F4-CE8E-46C5-A0D0-7E39F25ABB1D@gmail.com>
 <0B0B558263C14E12AF2558F4CA548C2F@Johnsdesktop>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============2922776418940773214==
 boundary=Apple-Mail-DC8BA9A5-DD48-4BE2-A007-F2E2932823BA
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-DC8BA9A5-DD48-4BE2-A007-F2E2932823BA
	charset=utf-8
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Just thought of a quick fix. Use a 3/4=E2=80=9D flare fitting & file out the=
 nut to fit over the copper. Make up the connection & adapt it as you see fi=
t.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Oct 21, 2018, at 7:33 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

it=E2=80=99s not out of round, Dave.  I mic=E2=80=99d it all the way around.=
.. and it was within .001 .  Someone mentioned freezing...  this pipe did fr=
eeze and burst in the past.  but the break was a foot above where I=E2=80=99=
m taking measurements.  That whole foot was removed.  I guess it could have e=
xpanded the whole section above the floor some.   And the section removed is=
 the same diameter as what I=E2=80=99m looking at now so that might be a clu=
e..  If my old back and knees will allow it, I=E2=80=99m going into the craw=
l space on the other end of the line and check sizes there, gotta do it anyw=
ay to turn it back on eventually.=20
=20
I talked to an old  plumber as suggested (well, he=E2=80=99s as old as me...=
70=E2=80=99s) and he suggested reaming/swaging the tube and insert a short s=
ection of standard 3/4 straight pipe and solder it in well.  That would get m=
e back to standard sizes.  I think I=E2=80=99m gonna try that tomorrow.   Th=
e fittings I=E2=80=99m using came from Home Depot/Lowes but I also checked s=
ome older fittings and they were the same measurements...  More to come !
=20
From: David Scheidt
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2018 7:06 AM
To: john niolon
Cc: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
=20
=20

> On Oct 20, 2018, at 12:07, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>=20
> When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3/4=E2=
=80=9D water line to the shop and cap it off.  I was going to put in the sin=
k and the outside faucet when I got time.  Well,  this week I got time
> =20
> I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fitting t=
he plumbing for sink/faucet.  The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing.  I=
 cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the tubing.  It=
 looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=99s=
 coming up thru the concrete.
=20
Is it out of round?  That=E2=80=99s a common problem with soft tube.  Plumbe=
rs have rerounding tools for the problem.=20
=20
> =20

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-DC8BA9A5-DD48-4BE2-A007-F2E2932823BA
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Just thought of a quick fix. Use a 3/4=E2=80=
=9D flare fitting &amp; file out the nut to fit over the copper. Make up the=
 connection &amp; adapt it as you see fit.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Peace,</=
div><div>Pat<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbs=
p;<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 21, 2018, at 7:33 AM, john niolon &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr">
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3D"content-type">

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>it=E2=80=99s not out of round, Dave.&nbsp; I mic=E2=80=99d it all the w=
ay around... and it=20
was within .001 .&nbsp; Someone mentioned freezing...&nbsp; this pipe did fr=
eeze=20
and burst in the past.&nbsp; but the break was a foot above where I=E2=80=99=
m taking=20
measurements.&nbsp; That whole foot was removed.&nbsp; I guess it could have=
=20
expanded the whole section above the floor some.&nbsp;&nbsp; And the section=
=20
removed is the same diameter as what I=E2=80=99m looking at now so that migh=
t be a=20
clue..&nbsp; If my old back and knees will allow it, I=E2=80=99m going into t=
he crawl=20
space on the other end of the line and check sizes there, gotta do it anyway=
 to=20
turn it back on eventually.&nbsp; </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I talked to an old&nbsp; plumber as suggested (well, he=E2=80=99s as ol=
d as=20
me...70=E2=80=99s) and he suggested reaming/swaging the tube and insert a sh=
ort section=20
of standard 3/4 straight pipe and solder it in well.&nbsp; That would get me=
=20
back to standard sizes.&nbsp; I think I=E2=80=99m gonna try that tomorrow.&n=
bsp;&nbsp;=20
The fittings I=E2=80=99m using came from Home Depot/Lowes but I also checked=
 some older=20
fittings and they were the same measurements...&nbsp; More to come !</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: &quot;Ca=
libri&quot;; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLA=
Y: inline">
<div style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<div><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style=3D"font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"dmscheidt@gmail.co=
m" href=3D"mailto:dmscheidt@gmail.com">David Scheidt</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, October 21, 2018 7:06 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"jniolon@att.net" href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net"=
>john=20
niolon</a> </div>
<div><b>Cc:</b> <a title=3D"shop-talk@autox.team.net" href=3D"mailto:shop-ta=
lk@autox.team.net">shop-talk</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the=
=20
gurus</div></div></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div></div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: &quot;Ca=
libri&quot;; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLA=
Y: inline">
<div></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>On Oct 20, 2018, at 12:07, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolo=
n@att.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
  <div>
  <div dir=3D"ltr">
  <div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
  <div>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had the plumber install a 3=
/4=E2=80=9D=20
  water line to the shop and cap it off.&nbsp; I was going to put in the sin=
k=20
  and the outside faucet when I got time.&nbsp; Well,&nbsp; this week I got=20=

  time</div>
  <div>&nbsp;</div>
  <div>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=E2=80=9D Tee to start dry fit=
ting the=20
  plumbing for sink/faucet.&nbsp; The Tee wouldn=E2=80=99t fit on the tubing=
.&nbsp; I=20
  cleaned it well but the Tee was still too small to fit over the tubing.&nb=
sp;=20
  It looks like he used coiled tubing, or at least that=E2=80=99s what=E2=80=
=99s coming up thru=20
  the concrete. </div></div></div></div></blockquote>
<div>&nbsp;</div>Is it out of round?&nbsp; That=E2=80=99s a common problem w=
ith soft=20
tube.&nbsp; Plumbers have rerounding tools for the problem.&nbsp;=20
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
  <div>&nbsp;</div></blockquote></div></div></div></div>
</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>_______________________________________________=
</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net=
">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www=
.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>S=
uggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"ht=
tp://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-ta=
lk</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><s=
pan></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============2922776418940773214==--

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 <10.51.22391.910EBCB5@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>,
 john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
 hBh5iu8ViOk9ScFdTC3Bby7VnGh/u5M2YkZNHVBF/eEV/vmajejSW8tmgr6YJVqoGmcyaId6fq5aUo9JJ6YYQ/8542+sUdyDl1JuoZ9FEMoiRUDxIgtTNGpj
 urJSLkkNVSEBc2ND4jZtTGRDnnSji75qbnEGekU1/1WamE7td/+w4M8AO+I6rBcF
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] need some copper plumbing help from the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8361321421289030551==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

------4IHZMUFDH7HTB1Z0VLMGB3CYJTKXA4
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

There's something wrong with those numbers=2E =2E900 minus =2E882 is only =
=2E018, meaning the wall thickness is only =2E009"=2E

But otherwise I agree, its probably 3/4 soft copper tubing, perhaps with a=
n extra coating for direct burial=2E Get a 3/4" flare nut and see if it wil=
l fit over the tubing=2E =2E900" is kind of big, but flare fittings are muc=
h more forgiving than sweat fittings are=2E Soft copper can also be swaged =
down a bit, just by clamping it in the flaring tool=2E
-- Randall

On 20 October 2018 20:10:06 GMT-06:00, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline=
=2Enet> wrote:
>There's certainly nothing wrong with asking the=20
>shop-talk gurus, but for that sort of situation I=20
>would walk into a plumbing supply store and tell=20
>them what I have and ask for a fitting=2E  I'm sure=20
>the situation has come up before=2E  As far as I=20
>know, there hasn't been any major shift in sizes=20
>in the last 25 years=2E  My house was built in 1985=20
>and fittings I buy work just fine with the=20
>original pipes=2E  Maybe the coiled tubing is the=20
>problem=2E  I have never tried connecting regular fittings to that=2E
>
>-Steve T=2E
>
>At 01:07 PM 10/20/2018, john niolon wrote:
>>When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had=20
>>the plumber install a 3/4=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D water line to the=20
>>shop and cap it off=2E  I was going to put in the=20
>>sink and the outside faucet when I got time=2E  Well,  this week I got
>time
>>
>>I cut the cap off and test fitted a 3/4=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D Tee=20
>>to start dry fitting the plumbing for=20
>>sink/faucet=2E  The Tee wouldn=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99t fit on the=20
>>tubing=2E  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still=20
>>too small to fit over the tubing=2E  It looks like=20
>>he used coiled tubing, or at least that=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99s=20
>>what=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99s coming up thru the concrete=2E  I tried=20
>>several fittings and even cut the tubing lower=20
>>to see if it was crimped or out of round=2E=2E=2E  it=20
>>mic=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99d the same all the way around it in several places
>>
>>I mic=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99d the tubing and the fitting and here=C3=A2=C2=80=
=C2=99s the results
>>
>>tubing i=2Ed=2E is  =2E882=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D which is just over 7/8=C3=
=A2=C2=80=C2=9D
>>tubing o=2Ed=2E is  =2E900=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D  which is just under 29/32=
=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D
>>
>>a new standard Tee i=2Ed=2Eis =2E876=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D   which ain=C3=A2=
=C2=80=C2=99t gonna fit over =2E900
>>
>>if I can find one fitting to get this to=20
>>standard 3/4=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D size I=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99m good to go=2E=
=2E=2E
>>
>>did the old stuff differ from todays standard =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9C
>>after researching fittings a little I see that=20
>>there are several =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=98types=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D of fittings=
=2E=2E=2E=2E=20
>>from plumbing to hvac to whatever=2E=2E=2E
>>
>>anyone wanna try and give me some guidance=20
>>here=2E=2E=2E the net is confusing and offers little on actual dimension=
s
>>
>>thanks
>>john
>
>
>---
>This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software=2E
>https://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/antivirus
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox=2Eteam=2Enet
>Donate: http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml
>Suggested annual donation  $12=2E96
>Archive: http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/shop-talk
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
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om

------4IHZMUFDH7HTB1Z0VLMGB3CYJTKXA4
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body>There's something wrong with those numbers=2E =2E9=
00 minus =2E882 is only =2E018, meaning the wall thickness is only =2E009"=
=2E<br><br>But otherwise I agree, its probably 3/4 soft copper tubing, perh=
aps with an extra coating for direct burial=2E Get a 3/4" flare nut and see=
 if it will fit over the tubing=2E =2E900" is kind of big, but flare fittin=
gs are much more forgiving than sweat fittings are=2E Soft copper can also =
be swaged down a bit, just by clamping it in the flaring tool=2E<br>-- Rand=
all<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 20 October 2018 20:10:06 GMT-06:00=
, Steven Trovato &lt;strovato@optonline=2Enet&gt; wrote:<blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; border-left: 1px sol=
id rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<pre class=3D"k9mail">There's certainly nothing wrong with asking the <br>=
shop-talk gurus, but for that sort of situation I <br>would walk into a plu=
mbing supply store and tell <br>them what I have and ask for a fitting=2E  =
I'm sure <br>the situation has come up before=2E  As far as I <br>know, the=
re hasn't been any major shift in sizes <br>in the last 25 years=2E  My hou=
se was built in 1985 <br>and fittings I buy work just fine with the <br>ori=
ginal pipes=2E  Maybe the coiled tubing is the <br>problem=2E  I have never=
 tried connecting regular fittings to that=2E<br><br>-Steve T=2E<br><br>At =
01:07 PM 10/20/2018, john niolon wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote=
" style=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 1ex 0=2E8ex; border-left: 1px solid #729fcf; pad=
ding-left: 1ex;">When we built my house/shop 25 years ago I had <br>the plu=
mber install a 3/4=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D water line to the <br>shop and cap it =
off=2E  I was going to put in the <br>sink and the outside faucet when I go=
t time=2E  Well,  this week I got time<br><br>I cut the cap off and test fi=
tted a 3/4=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D Tee <br>to start dry fitting the plumbing for =
<br>sink/faucet=2E  The Tee wouldn=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99t fit on the <br>tubing=
=2E  I cleaned it well but the Tee was still <br>too small to fit over the =
tubing=2E  It looks like <br>he used coiled tubing, or at least that=C3=A2=
=C2=80=C2=99s <br>what=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99s coming up thru the concrete=2E  I=
 tried <br>several fittings and even cut the tubing lower <br>to see if it =
was crimped or out of round=2E=2E=2E  it <br>mic=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99d the sam=
e all the way around it in several places<br><br>I mic=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99d t=
he tubing and the fitting and here=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99s the results<br><br>tu=
bing i=2Ed=2E is  =2E882=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D which is just over 7/8=C3=A2=C2=
=80=C2=9D<br>tubing o=2Ed=2E is  =2E900=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D  which is just un=
der 29/32=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9D<br><br>a new standard Tee i=2Ed=2Eis =2E876=C3=
=A2=C2=80=C2=9D   which ain=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99t gonna fit over =2E900<br><br=
>if I can find one fitting to get this to <br>standard 3/4=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=
=9D size I=C3=A2=C2=80=C2=99m good to go=2E=2E=2E<br><br>did the old stuff =
differ from todays standard =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=9C<br>after researching fitting=
s a little I see that <br>there are several =C3=A2=C2=80=C2=98types=C3=A2=
=C2=80=C2=9D of fittings=2E=2E=2E=2E <br>from plumbing to hvac to whatever=
=2E=2E=2E<br><br>anyone wanna try and give me some guidance <br>here=2E=2E=
=2E the net is confusing and offers little on actual dimensions<br><br>than=
ks<br>john<br></blockquote><hr>This email has been checked for viruses by A=
vast antivirus software=2E<br><a href=3D"https://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/antiviru=
s">https://www=2Eavast=2Ecom/antivirus</a><hr>Shop-talk@autox=2Eteam=2Enet<=
br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml">http://www=2Et=
eam=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml</a><br>Suggested annual donation  $12=2E96<br>Archi=
ve: <a href=3D"http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www=2Ete=
am=2Enet/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http=
://autox=2Eteam=2Enet/mailman/options/shop-talk/tr3driver@ca=2Err=2Ecom">ht=
tp://autox=2Eteam=2Enet/mailman/options/shop-talk/tr3driver@ca=2Err=2Ecom</=
a><br><br></pre></blockquote></div></body></html>
------4IHZMUFDH7HTB1Z0VLMGB3CYJTKXA4--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============8361321421289030551==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 22:36:58 2018
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From: Arvid <arvid.jedlicka@gmail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u4_99msoDw1HFQKsHCxhiR7a2vofsnfy5NwcotCrqsgTA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 15:25:54 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/60.2.1
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing/re-attaching coax line
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============0556531007338875185==
 boundary="------------5AEA915B5DC6DF48F54DDFAA"
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--------------5AEA915B5DC6DF48F54DDFAA
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Scott,

Try to determine why kind of coax it is. It should be written on the 
outer shield.

After that you should be able to Google for the correct connectors and 
YouTube demo's on how to install them.

As an example, when I installed my satellite dish I used RG6 Quad 
Shield. That also seems to be relatively popular CATV cable. But there 
is also an RG6 Dual Shield which, I am assuming, would look similar on 
the outside but is certainly not the same on the inside and takes a 
different connector. And your cable not even be RG6 ANYTHING so look first.

Anyway, once you figure out exactly what cable you have then take the 
environment into consideration. Do you need weatherproof connectors? Are 
there any support issues? That kind of stuff.

Note that there may be some special tools to make the stripping and 
inserting into the connector much easier. I've actually had better luck 
... though it took a while ... stripping the coax by hand than I did 
with the inexpensive coax strippers that I bought but the 'pusher' was a 
must-have in my opinion. So you may get to buy some tools you don't 
already have but will hopefully never need to use again.

Other than that I can't think of why you can't do it yourself. Of course 
any laws, regulations, ordinances, contract agreements, etc. that you 
violate while doing so are on you ;-}

Arvid


On 10/21/18 11:51 AM, Scott Hall wrote:
> Guys, not particularly shop related, but I trust you guys more than 
> Google.
>
> Hurricane Michael knocked over a tree at the house. That tree ripped 
> the overhead Concast coax line running to the house. It looks exactly 
> like you'd think it would--ripped apart on one end.
>
> The other end has a connector on it. Looks like the push version of 
> what you connect to the t.v. box in the house
>
> Can I trim the ends and install a new connector on the ripped-off end 
> and connect them? If so, anything I find on Google will do?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
>

--------------5AEA915B5DC6DF48F54DDFAA
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Scott,</p>
    <p>Try to determine why kind of coax it is. It should be written on
      the outer shield.</p>
    <p>After that you should be able to Google for the correct
      connectors and YouTube demo's on how to install them.</p>
    <p>As an example, when I installed my satellite dish I used RG6 Quad
      Shield. That also seems to be relatively popular CATV cable. But
      there is also an RG6 Dual Shield which, I am assuming, would look
      similar on the outside but is certainly not the same on the inside
      and takes a different connector. And your cable not even be RG6
      ANYTHING so look first.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Anyway, once you figure out exactly what cable you have then take
      the environment into consideration. Do you need weatherproof
      connectors? Are there any support issues? That kind of stuff.</p>
    <p>Note that there may be some special tools to make the stripping
      and inserting into the connector much easier. I've actually had
      better luck ... though it took a while ... stripping the coax by
      hand than I did with the inexpensive coax strippers that I bought
      but the 'pusher' was a must-have in my opinion. So you may get to
      buy some tools you don't already have but will hopefully never
      need to use again.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Other than that I can't think of why you can't do it yourself. Of
      course any laws, regulations, ordinances, contract agreements,
      etc. that you violate while doing so are on you ;-}<br>
    </p>
    <p>Arvid<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/18 11:51 AM, Scott Hall wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAK73_u4_99msoDw1HFQKsHCxhiR7a2vofsnfy5NwcotCrqsgTA@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">Guys, not particularly shop related, but I trust
        you guys more than Google.
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Hurricane Michael knocked over a tree at the
          house. That tree ripped the overhead Concast coax line running
          to the house. It looks exactly like you'd think it
          would--ripped apart on one end.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">The other end has a connector on it. Looks like
          the push version of what you connect to the t.v. box in the
          houseÂ </div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Can I trim the ends and install a new connector
          on the ripped-off end and connect them? If so, anything I find
          on Google will do?</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Thanks.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Scott</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
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Received: from KarlIntel ([2601:243:2000:1e40:4d83:c423:b0b7:16d6])
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 Sun, 21 Oct 2018 15:21:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Karl Vacek <stearman809@gmail.com>
To: "'John Innis'" <jdinnis@gmail.com>,
	"'Al Fuller'" <al@bighealey.org>
References: <006501d46895$efbcca50$cf365ef0$@bighealey.org>
 <CANuE7YAOfB_=T+FOEzUUUSe8S8cE54z3CiQWndzwDz0M59cYpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2018 17:21:19 -0500
Thread-Index: AQKL1SJ8Vc4+kHye76xv3JjC34rBgwLQAiGAo6Tf1yA=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'shop-talk' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Answers here to many things you didn=E2=80=99t ask about=E2=80=A6  About =
aircraft plugs, where blasting is the most common, but mostly applicable =
to car and small-engine plugs as well.  FWIW, I=E2=80=99ve been blasting =
car plugs since the 60=E2=80=99s and aircraft plugs since the =
70=E2=80=99s.

=20

Blasting is still used on most aircraft plugs, same as ever.  Aviation =
plugs cost $25-$50-$75 apiece and up, depending on type and how much of =
a bargain hunter you are.  No big sales at the local auto parts store.  =
Very few owners replace plugs at every Annual or 100-hour inspection.  =
Piston aircraft engines have 2 plugs per cylinder, and flat engines most =
commonly have 4 or 6 cylinders.  Radial engines usually have 7 or 9 =
cylinders (or 3 or 5 on some antiques), and the really big ones have =
multiple rows of 7 or 9 cylinders.  Lots of plugs.

=20

The two largest aviation spark plug manufacturers, Champion and Tempest =
(originally AC) both publish blasting instructions and sell plug =
blasting/testing machines.  Quite obviously they approve.  Like a =
majority of individuals working mainly on their own planes, I =
don=E2=80=99t have one of these $1,000 to $1,500 machines.  The =
=E2=80=9CVixen=E2=80=9D brand one that most auto parts stores still sell =
for under $20 works just fine.  It doesn=E2=80=99t have the impressive =
pressure-tester where you see the spark jumping while the plug is under =
pressure, but that test isn=E2=80=99t really helpful 99.9% of the time =
as long as you do a good job of cleaning.

=20

As far as abrasive, I use a garnet abrasive because it indeed breaks =
down and exposes fresh sharp edges.   Most auto parts stores sell little =
bags specifically for use in plug blasters.  And if a garnet particle =
gets into the engine despite careful magnified inspection as part of my =
reconditioning, that particle won=E2=80=99t do as much damage as =
aluminum oxide.  But it=E2=80=99s probably not critical as long as you =
get all the abrasive out in the first place before reinstalling the =
plug.  Either way, abrasive is cheap to buy and lasts through many many =
plugs.

=20

There isn=E2=80=99t actually a shiny coating or glaze on the center or =
nose insulator, and the ceramic itself isn=E2=80=99t degraded much by =
normal light blasting.  What the aviation plug manufacturers DO caution =
about, however, it to avoid eroding the cement that holds the center =
electrode into the insulator.  With extended blasting the cement erodes =
and a well develops around the center electrode.  Not sure how bad it =
needs to get to be an issue =E2=80=93 I have some plugs with slight =
erosion and they work fine, don=E2=80=99t foul notably different than =
new ones, etc.

=20

To get the initial carbon off (because its=E2=80=99 a really slow =
process to blast 14 plugs completely without doing some initial carbon =
removal), I first use Hoppe=E2=80=99s #9.  Just set the plugs upside =
down in a rack and drop in enough Hoppe=E2=80=99s to fill the plug =
interior.  Wait an hour (15 minutes is actually enough most times), dump =
out the Hoppe=E2=80=99s, and  spray carb cleaner or Brakleen into the =
plug to get much of the carbon out.  Then blow dry, and then blast.  =
Speeds up the process immensely, especially getting the deep carbon out =
or at least softened.

=20

While cleaning, some of the carbon inside the plug=E2=80=99s outer steel =
shell is hard to remove.  Champion (etc.) sells a plug cutter tool =
that=E2=80=99s like a tiny curved saw blade, made to fit  into a =
vibrating engraver-type tool.  That makes fast work of the excess carbon =
around the outside.  Carbon on the center insulator usually comes off =
pretty easily.  Once you think you=E2=80=99re pretty much done.. you =
visually inspect the inside for missed deposits and any remaining =
abrasive.  A dental pick helps there.

=20

The other thing that=E2=80=99s important in reconditioning aviation =
plugs is to check the resistance.  There=E2=80=99s a resistor in =
virtually every modern aircraft plug, not for RF suppression but for =
good running.  If the resistance decreases (it can over time) the plug =
will develop a misfire.  RF suppression is handled by shielding of the =
magnetos, cables, and the plugs themselves, which have a heavy steel =
outer case.  You never even see the ceramic outside like you do on an =
automotive plug (except for unshielded aircraft plugs, which are =
increasingly rare).

=20

Massive electrode plugs have a large center electrode and (usually two) =
large side electrodes that are shaped to surround the center electrode.  =
The side electrodes can be bent in and out to set the gap.  While plug =
inspection and cleaning is part of every 100-hour and annual inspection, =
blasting can in time round off the edges of the electrodes and make the =
plugs less efficient, as the primary area for sparking to begin is at =
the sharp edges.  I=E2=80=99ve taken an ignition file to the tops of my =
electrodes a few times on older plugs to remove some of the =
blasting-induced rounding.  They look better, but I=E2=80=99m not sure =
it makes lots of difference in running.

=20

Plug manufacturers don=E2=80=99t recommend blasting on =
=E2=80=9Cfine-wire=E2=80=9D plugs, which are similar to platinum, etc. =
automotive plugs except the side electrode is a thin piece of platinum =
or iridium.  Those come pre-gapped and all you=E2=80=99re supposed to do =
is verify the gap, and if it=E2=80=99s incorrect replace the plug.  At =
$75 apiece minimum.  But they don=E2=80=99t foul much, which is why =
they=E2=80=99re used, and they last a long time.

=20

Final caveat.  Shielded aviation plugs are all heavy steel on the =
outside.  All the ceramic is inside.  If you drop one, it looks fine.  =
Even after carefully inspecting it, all the ceramic looks fine every =
time.

=20

But there=E2=80=99s an old aircraft mechanic=E2=80=99s saying that you =
only drop a plug twice.  First time on the floor, and the second time =
into the garbage can.  I=E2=80=99ve violated that a few times, but =
75-80% of the time the plug is either bad immediately or goes bad =
quickly =E2=80=93 within a few hours at most.  I=E2=80=99ve marked the =
plugs I=E2=80=99ve dropped and attempted to reuse, but after a few times =
realizing that the old saying is right, I haven=E2=80=99t reused any =
more dropped plugs.  A bad miss or worse really gets your attention in =
the air.

=20

Have a blast !!

=20

Karl

=20

=20

=20

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
John Innis
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 8:02 PM
To: Al Fuller
Cc: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner

=20

Only time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs.  Auto and small =
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away.  Aircraft plugs also have =
"massive" electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit more material =
loss.

=20

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org> wrote:

Anybody still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air =
powered sand blasters of old?

=20

I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =
=E2=80=93 and wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the =
plugs.  I don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them =
years ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more =
exotic materials.

=20

Thoughts?=20

=20

Al Fuller

=20

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

=20

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com



--=20

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Answers here to many things you didn=E2=80=99t ask =
about=E2=80=A6=C2=A0 About aircraft plugs, where blasting is the most =
common, but mostly applicable to car and small-engine plugs as =
well.=C2=A0 FWIW, I=E2=80=99ve been blasting car plugs since the =
60=E2=80=99s and aircraft plugs since the =
70=E2=80=99s.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Blasting is still used on most aircraft plugs, same as ever.=C2=A0 =
Aviation plugs cost $25-$50-$75 apiece and up, depending on type and how =
much of a bargain hunter you are.=C2=A0 No big sales at the local auto =
parts store.=C2=A0 Very few owners replace plugs at every Annual or =
100-hour inspection.=C2=A0 Piston aircraft engines have 2 plugs per =
cylinder, and flat engines most commonly have 4 or 6 cylinders.=C2=A0 =
Radial engines usually have 7 or 9 cylinders (or 3 or 5 on some =
antiques), and the really big ones have multiple rows of 7 or 9 =
cylinders.=C2=A0 Lots of plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>The two largest aviation spark plug manufacturers, Champion and =
Tempest (originally AC) both publish blasting instructions and sell plug =
blasting/testing machines.=C2=A0 Quite obviously they approve.=C2=A0 =
Like a majority of individuals working mainly on their own planes, I =
don=E2=80=99t have one of these $1,000 to $1,500 machines.=C2=A0 The =
=E2=80=9CVixen=E2=80=9D brand one that most auto parts stores still sell =
for under $20 works just fine. =C2=A0It doesn=E2=80=99t have the =
impressive pressure-tester where you see the spark jumping while the =
plug is under pressure, but that test isn=E2=80=99t really helpful 99.9% =
of the time as long as you do a good job of =
cleaning.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>As far as abrasive, I use a garnet abrasive because it indeed breaks =
down and exposes fresh sharp edges.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Most auto parts stores =
sell little bags specifically for use in plug blasters.=C2=A0 And if a =
garnet particle gets into the engine despite careful magnified =
inspection as part of my reconditioning, that particle won=E2=80=99t do =
as much damage as aluminum oxide.=C2=A0 But it=E2=80=99s probably not =
critical as long as you get all the abrasive out in the first place =
before reinstalling the plug.=C2=A0 Either way, abrasive is cheap to buy =
and lasts through many many plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>There isn=E2=80=99t actually a shiny coating or glaze on the center =
or nose insulator, and the ceramic itself isn=E2=80=99t degraded much by =
normal light blasting.=C2=A0 What the aviation plug manufacturers DO =
caution about, however, it to avoid eroding the cement that holds the =
center electrode into the insulator.=C2=A0 With extended blasting the =
cement erodes and a well develops around the center electrode.=C2=A0 Not =
sure how bad it needs to get to be an issue =E2=80=93 I have some plugs =
with slight erosion and they work fine, don=E2=80=99t foul notably =
different than new ones, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>To get the initial carbon off (because its=E2=80=99 a really slow =
process to blast 14 plugs completely without doing some initial carbon =
removal), I first use Hoppe=E2=80=99s #9.=C2=A0 Just set the plugs =
upside down in a rack and drop in enough Hoppe=E2=80=99s to fill the =
plug interior.=C2=A0 Wait an hour (15 minutes is actually enough most =
times), dump out the Hoppe=E2=80=99s, and =C2=A0spray carb cleaner or =
Brakleen into the plug to get much of the carbon out.=C2=A0 Then blow =
dry, and then blast.=C2=A0 Speeds up the process immensely, especially =
getting the deep carbon out or at least =
softened.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>While cleaning, some of the carbon inside the plug=E2=80=99s outer =
steel shell is hard to remove.=C2=A0 Champion (etc.) sells a plug cutter =
tool that=E2=80=99s like a tiny curved saw blade, made to fit=C2=A0 into =
a vibrating engraver-type tool.=C2=A0 That makes fast work of the excess =
carbon around the outside.=C2=A0 Carbon on the center insulator usually =
comes off pretty easily.=C2=A0 Once you think you=E2=80=99re pretty much =
done.. you visually inspect the inside for missed deposits and any =
remaining abrasive.=C2=A0 A dental pick helps =
there.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>The other thing that=E2=80=99s important in reconditioning aviation =
plugs is to check the resistance.=C2=A0 There=E2=80=99s a resistor in =
virtually every modern aircraft plug, not for RF suppression but for =
good running.=C2=A0 If the resistance decreases (it can over time) the =
plug will develop a misfire.=C2=A0 RF suppression is handled by =
shielding of the magnetos, cables, and the plugs themselves, which have =
a heavy steel outer case.=C2=A0 You never even see the ceramic outside =
like you do on an automotive plug (except for unshielded aircraft plugs, =
which are increasingly rare).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Massive electrode plugs have a large center electrode and (usually =
two) large side electrodes that are shaped to surround the center =
electrode.=C2=A0 The side electrodes can be bent in and out to set the =
gap.=C2=A0 While plug inspection and cleaning is part of every 100-hour =
and annual inspection, blasting can in time round off the edges of the =
electrodes and make the plugs less efficient, as the primary area for =
sparking to begin is at the sharp edges.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve taken an =
ignition file to the tops of my electrodes a few times on older plugs to =
remove some of the blasting-induced rounding.=C2=A0 They look better, =
but I=E2=80=99m not sure it makes lots of difference in =
running.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Plug manufacturers don=E2=80=99t recommend blasting on =
=E2=80=9Cfine-wire=E2=80=9D plugs, which are similar to platinum, etc. =
automotive plugs except the side electrode is a thin piece of platinum =
or iridium.=C2=A0 Those come pre-gapped and all you=E2=80=99re supposed =
to do is verify the gap, and if it=E2=80=99s incorrect replace the =
plug.=C2=A0 At $75 apiece minimum. =C2=A0But they don=E2=80=99t foul =
much, which is why they=E2=80=99re used, and they last a long =
time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Final caveat.=C2=A0 Shielded aviation plugs are all heavy steel on =
the outside.=C2=A0 All the ceramic is inside.=C2=A0 If you drop one, it =
looks fine.=C2=A0 Even after carefully inspecting it, all the ceramic =
looks fine every time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>But there=E2=80=99s an old aircraft mechanic=E2=80=99s saying that =
you only drop a plug twice.=C2=A0 First time on the floor, and the =
second time into the garbage can.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve violated that a few =
times, but 75-80% of the time the plug is either bad immediately or goes =
bad quickly =E2=80=93 within a few hours at most.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve =
marked the plugs I=E2=80=99ve dropped and attempted to reuse, but after =
a few times realizing that the old saying is right, I haven=E2=80=99t =
reused any more dropped plugs.=C2=A0 A bad miss or worse really gets =
your attention in the air.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Have a blast !!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Karl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>John Innis<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 20, 2018 8:02 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Al Fuller<br><b>Cc:</b> shop-talk<br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Only =
time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs.&nbsp; Auto and small =
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away.&nbsp; Aircraft plugs also =
have &quot;massive&quot; electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit =
more material loss.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:al@bighealey.org">al@bighealey.org</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Anybody =
still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air powered =
sand blasters of old?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I=E2=80=99m =
looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =E2=80=93 and =
wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs.&nbsp; I =
don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them years ago, nut =
I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exotic =
materials.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Thoughts? =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Al Fuller</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'65 BJ-8</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'85 Rx-7</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br><br>Unsu=
bscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com=
" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis=
@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><br =
clear=3Dall><br>-- <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people =
with style when you&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- =
Sam Brown&nbsp; =
=3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html=
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 23:47:50 2018
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2018 17:04:10 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] copper tubing plumbing help solution
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============7191698953318562732==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00FD_01D46A29.401F8D40"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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After reading all the suggestions you guys offered and discussing the =
situation with my old plumber/pipefitter friend, this is what I came up =
with

Using two or three different sizes of sockets and finally a 1/2=E2=80=9D =
socket extension with a =E2=80=98flare=E2=80=99 from the shaft to the =
head I slowly swaged the tube until
I  could insert a normal 3/4=E2=80=9D section of tube inside it.  I =
sweat soldered those two pieces together. =20

While we were digging the ditch for the sink drain we snagged the =
original line about 3 feet from where I =E2=80=98remembered=E2=80=99 it =
being.  I removed/replaced the damaged piece with standard
3/4 stick tubing and we found that the plumber had used stick tube from =
the house to the garage and then used the coil tubing to make the radius =
bend up thru the floor slab.  I=E2=80=99ll never know why... maybe an =
apprentice's
decision to finish up early one day
.
I did check the o.d. of the other end of the coiled tube and found it to =
be the same as the stick tubing (just like some of you said).   Soooooo =
the consensus that the tube had frozen and expanded enough to prevent =
fittings from going on the end was probably the right answer. =20

after all the drain/ditch work and the repairs I installed a =
3/4=E2=80=9D ball valve and opened the valve on the other end... so far =
(4 hours)... no leaks, no fountains in the garage, no large wet spots in =
the yard
and I=E2=80=99m tired.  I should have done this 25 years ago when I =
built the house and was in my 40=E2=80=99s.

thanks for all the advise, opinion, and discussion... once again this =
fine group has saved my bacon..

later
\john
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>After reading all the suggestions you guys offered and discussing =
the=20
situation with my old plumber/pipefitter friend, this is what I came up=20
with</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Using two or three different sizes of sockets and finally a =
1/2=E2=80=9D socket=20
extension with a =E2=80=98flare=E2=80=99 from the shaft to the head I =
slowly swaged the tube=20
until</DIV>
<DIV>I&nbsp; could insert a normal 3/4=E2=80=9D section of tube inside =
it.&nbsp; I sweat=20
soldered those two pieces together.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>While we were digging the ditch for the sink drain we snagged the =
original=20
line about 3 feet from where I =E2=80=98remembered=E2=80=99 it =
being.&nbsp; I removed/replaced=20
the damaged piece with standard</DIV>
<DIV>3/4 stick tubing and we found that the plumber had used stick tube =
from the=20
house to the garage and then used the coil tubing to make the radius =
bend up=20
thru the floor slab.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99ll never know why... maybe an =
apprentice's</DIV>
<DIV>decision to finish up early one day</DIV>
<DIV>.</DIV>
<DIV>I did check the o.d. of the other end of the coiled tube and found =
it to be=20
the same as the stick tubing (just like some of you said).&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Soooooo=20
the consensus that the tube had frozen and expanded enough to prevent =
fittings=20
from going on the end was probably the right answer.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>after all the drain/ditch work and the repairs I installed a =
3/4=E2=80=9D ball=20
valve and opened the valve on the other end... so far (4 hours)... no =
leaks, no=20
fountains in the garage, no large wet spots in the yard</DIV>
<DIV>and I=E2=80=99m tired.&nbsp; I should have done this 25 years ago =
when I built the=20
house and was in my 40=E2=80=99s.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks for all the advise, opinion, and discussion... once again =
this fine=20
group has saved my bacon..</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>later</DIV>
<DIV>\john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============7191698953318562732==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 17:52:47 2018
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: oddball off the wall question....
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Subject: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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--_000_MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00MWHPR13MB1309namp_
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.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
thanks
tim

--_000_MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00MWHPR13MB1309namp_
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font=
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.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
<div>thanks</div>
<div>tim</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 20:09:20 -0400
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3393474683964528456==

--000000000000d20f7d05792aa5d7

 If you continuously spray water on it for several years, it will probably
dissolve.

Doug


On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
wrote:

> .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on
> wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
> thanks
> tim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
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> dougbraun.com
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>

--000000000000d20f7d05792aa5d7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>If you continuously spray water on it for several years, it will proba=
bly dissolve.</div><div><br></div><div>Doug</div>

<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri,=
 Oct 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM, Tim . <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tim=
s_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target=3D"_blank">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com=
</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin=
:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"m_329655839095505021divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12p=
t;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif" dir=3D"ltr">
.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
<div>thanks</div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
<div>tim</div>
</font></span></div>
</div>

<br>______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/<wbr>shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/doug@dougbraun.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/<wbr>options/shop-talk/doug@<wbr>dougbraun.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

--000000000000d20f7d05792aa5d7--

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 20:10:03 -0400
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
References: <MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00@MWHPR13MB1309.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============0358572986371453799==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_3D01725F-5515-402B-B8FE-FF4DB372F888"


--Apple-Mail=_3D01725F-5515-402B-B8FE-FF4DB372F888
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

I just bought some of this to get rid of a tree stump: =
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spectracide-16-oz-Stump-Remover/4764059?cm_mmc=3D=
SCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-GrassAndWeedChemicals-_-4764059:Spectracide&CAWELAI=
D=3D&kpid=3D4764059&CAGPSPN=3Dpla&store_code=3D2921&k_clickID=3Dgo_6258538=
98_34614666430_111134444590_aud-448329606639:pla-451485471992_c_9004590&gc=
lid=3DCjwKCAjw9sreBRBAEiwARroYmxhEKsNYrWPxUAhw2EoCSx5IzA4wtZdM4M48vsESj89K=
M6qgHwMqjRoCAYUQAvD_BwE

I=E2=80=99ve put it in the stump, but won=E2=80=99t know if it really =
works or not for quite a while.

> On Oct 26, 2018, at 3:18 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> =
wrote:
>=20
> .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray =
on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk>
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com>

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
just bought some of this to get rid of a tree stump:&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spectracide-16-oz-Stump-Remover/4764059?c=
m_mmc=3DSCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-GrassAndWeedChemicals-_-4764059:Spectracide=
&amp;CAWELAID=3D&amp;kpid=3D4764059&amp;CAGPSPN=3Dpla&amp;store_code=3D292=
1&amp;k_clickID=3Dgo_625853898_34614666430_111134444590_aud-448329606639:p=
la-451485471992_c_9004590&amp;gclid=3DCjwKCAjw9sreBRBAEiwARroYmxhEKsNYrWPx=
UAhw2EoCSx5IzA4wtZdM4M48vsESj89KM6qgHwMqjRoCAYUQAvD_BwE" =
class=3D"">https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spectracide-16-oz-Stump-Remover/476405=
9?cm_mmc=3DSCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-GrassAndWeedChemicals-_-4764059:Spectrac=
ide&amp;CAWELAID=3D&amp;kpid=3D4764059&amp;CAGPSPN=3Dpla&amp;store_code=3D=
2921&amp;k_clickID=3Dgo_625853898_34614666430_111134444590_aud-44832960663=
9:pla-451485471992_c_9004590&amp;gclid=3DCjwKCAjw9sreBRBAEiwARroYmxhEKsNYr=
WPxUAhw2EoCSx5IzA4wtZdM4M48vsESj89KM6qgHwMqjRoCAYUQAvD_BwE</a><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I=E2=80=99ve put it in =
the stump, but won=E2=80=99t know if it really works or not for quite a =
while.<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Oct 26, 2018, at 3:18 PM, Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" dir=3D"ltr" style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, =
0); font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; font-size: 12pt; =
font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;" class=3D"">.....I need to =
dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to =
somewhat slowly dissolve it?<div class=3D"">thanks</div><div =
class=3D"">tim</div></div><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
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normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2018 00:23:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <122059424.17152360.1540599827073.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 x64; rv:62.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/62.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6795252851168379512==
	boundary="----=_Part_17152359_599060565.1540599827072"

------=_Part_17152359_599060565.1540599827072
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Termites?
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 6:55 pm
Subject: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....

 &lt;!--#yiv8817181622 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}--&gt;.....I need t=
o dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to somewhat=
 slowly dissolve it?thankstim______________________________________________=
_

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

ssey@cs.com


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<font color='black' size='3' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size="3">Termites?</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&gt;<br>
To: Shop Talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 6:55 pm<br>
Subject: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....<br>
<br>

<div id="yiv8817181622">

 
<style type="text/css">&lt;!--#yiv8817181622 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}--&gt;</style>


<div dir="ltr">

<div id="yiv8817181622divtagdefaultwrapper" dir="ltr" style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?

<div>thanks</div>


<div>tim</div>

</div>

</div>

</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a ymailto="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" rel="noopener noreferrer" removedlink__aca97800-bd05-4c5b-ad66-a9c821081729__href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
Archive: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" removedlink__aca97800-bd05-4c5b-ad66-a9c821081729__href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
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References: <MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00@MWHPR13MB1309.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 19:47:00 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2523645082857389125==

--0000000000002d9b7105792b2dfb

Nasty Stuff
Sulfuric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye).
Note that wood absorbs these things quickly.  You won't be able to control
the process.  And make sure you have a plan for dealing with the waste
before you start, these are nasty chemicals.

On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 7:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on
> wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--0000000000002d9b7105792b2dfb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Nasty Stuff</div><div>Sulfuric Acid<br></div><div>Sod=
ium Hydroxide (Lye).=C2=A0 <br></div><div>Note that wood absorbs these thin=
gs quickly.=C2=A0 You won&#39;t be able to control the process.=C2=A0 And m=
ake sure you have a plan for dealing with the waste before you start, these=
 are nasty chemicals.<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div di=
r=3D"ltr">On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 7:01 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_=
datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-le=
ft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"m_5390087358179873847divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12=
pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif" dir=3D"ltr">
.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
<div>thanks</div>
<div>tim</div>
</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
<br>=3D Never offend people with style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can =
offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2435375364136758809==
	boundary="=====================_523907517==.ALT"

--=====================_523907517==.ALT

If you google "wood dissolver" you get a lot of options.  It would 
help to know what you are really trying to do.  If you are going for 
some sort of decorative effect, the approach will be different from 
dissolving old fence posts.

-Steve

At 08:09 PM 10/26/2018, Doug Braun wrote:
>If you continuously spray water on it for several years, it will 
>probably dissolve.
>
>Doug
>
>
>On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM, Tim . 
>.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray 
>on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
>thanks
>tim


---
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<html>
<body>
If you google &quot;wood dissolver&quot; you get a lot of options.&nbsp;
It would help to know what you are really trying to do.&nbsp; If you are
going for some sort of decorative effect, the approach will be different
from dissolving old fence posts.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 08:09 PM 10/26/2018, Doug Braun wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">If you continuously spray water
on it for several years, it will probably dissolve.<br><br>
Doug<br><br>
<br>
On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM, Tim .
&lt;<a href="mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">
tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>

<dl>
<dd>.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray
on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it? <br>

<dd>thanks<br>

<dd><font color="#888888">tim</font>
</dl></blockquote><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
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Termites.



On 10/26/2018 12:18 PM, Tim . wrote:
> .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray 
> on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
> thanks
> tim
>
>
>


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    <p>Termites.<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/26/2018 12:18 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00@MWHPR13MB1309.namprd13.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
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      <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper"
style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;"
        dir="ltr">
        .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I
        spray on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
        <div>thanks</div>
        <div>tim</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 22:46:29 2018
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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 23:13:46 -0400
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2555499256880889154==

--0000000000001449db05792d3aa5

What kind of wood (a tree stump, indoor furniture, a floorboard) and how
fast do you want it done?

If it's a tree stump and you've got a few months, the mold or bacteria you
can buy at hardware stores will take care of a stump.

If you want it gone quick and it's something else, sulfuric acid will easy
just about anything. Including anything near the hunk of wood you want gone.

What are you trying to disappear?


On Fri, Oct 26, 2018, 7:54 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on
> wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
> thanks
> tim
>

--0000000000001449db05792d3aa5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>What kind of wood (a tree stump, indoor furniture, a=
 floorboard) and how fast do you want it done?<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><=
div dir=3D"auto">If it&#39;s a tree stump and you&#39;ve got a few months, =
the mold or bacteria you can buy at hardware stores will take care of a stu=
mp.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you want it gone =
quick and it&#39;s something else, sulfuric acid will easy just about anyth=
ing. Including anything near the hunk of wood you want gone.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">What are you trying to disappear?</di=
v><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, Oct 26, 2018,=
 7:54 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_da=
tsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1e=
x">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"m_-4833251150927630008divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif" dir=3D"ltr">
.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
<div>thanks</div>
<div>tim</div></div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 07:00:37 2018
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
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> And make sure you have a plan 
> for dealing with the waste before you start, these are nasty 
> chemicals.

I agree, but they are fairly easy to neutralize.  For acid, use a big box
(or two) of baking soda.  It will chemically react (foam and bubbles) to
form a (relatively) harmless salt and lots of CO2.  Keep applying until no
more reaction.

For lye, use vinegar.

Both processes do generate some heat, though, so if you have acid or lye on
your skin, it's probably best to flush with water first, then apply the
vinegar or baking soda.

Wear eye protection, clothing protection, etc.

-- Randall

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: oddball off the wall question....
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Thanks for the replies all.


I have both a stump and I want to do as well as old fence posts.


Didn't think of lye but sulfuric acid did cross my mine.


cheers

tim


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 2:18 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....

.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
thanks
tim

--_000_CY4PR13MB1302D4B3C566DCCD7DE0ECB7B4F10CY4PR13MB1302namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
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n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font=
-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir=3D"ltr">
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><span title=3D"" class=3D"">Thank=
s</span> for the replies all.&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">I have both a stump and I want to=
 do as well as old fence posts.&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">Didn't think of lye but sulfuric =
acid did cross my mine.&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">cheers</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">tim</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, October 26, 2018 2:18 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
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<div id=3D"x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir=3D"ltr" style=3D"font-size:12pt; col=
or:#000000; font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif">
.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
<div>thanks</div>
<div>tim</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From: elans4 elans4 <elans4@cox.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop  Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00@MWHPR13MB1309.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Importance: Medium
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Please remove Tim Mullen from you list. He passed 3 years ago


> On October 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
> 
>     .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
>     thanks
>     tim
> 
 

> _______________________________________________
> 
>     Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/elans4@cox.net
> 
> 
 

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</style></head><body>Please remove Tim Mullen from you list.  He passed 3 years ago<br>
 
 
  <br>
  <blockquote type="cite">  
    
     On October 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM &#34;Tim .&#34; &#60;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&#62; wrote:
   <br>
   <br> 
   <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper" style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-family: Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir="ltr">
     .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it? 
    <div>
     thanks
    </div> 
    <div>
     tim
    </div> 
   </div>  
  </blockquote> 
  <br>&#160;
  <blockquote type="cite">
    _______________________________________________
   <br>
   <br>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
   <br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
   <br>Suggested annual donation $12.96
   <br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
   <br>
   <br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/elans4@cox.net
   <br>
   <br>
  </blockquote> 
  <br>&#160;
 
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 15:11:18 2018
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2018 19:17:08 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Had an old timer stump grinder tell me to pour buttermilk on a stump to =
accelerate rot.It did rot - not sure how much it accelerated!It was soft=
 and easily knocked in in about a year - pine stump.
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<html><div><br>Had an old timer stump grinder tell me to pour buttermilk=
 on a stump to accelerate rot.</div>
<div>It did rot - not sure how much it accelerated!</div>
<div>It was soft and easily knocked in in about a year - pine stump.</di=
v></html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, elans4 elans4 <elans4@cox.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
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Sorry for your loss.


I'm pretty sure that there is an "unsubscribe" link somewhere in this email=
 string.


________________________________
From: elans4 elans4 <elans4@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2018 9:14 AM
To: Tim .; Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....

Please remove Tim Mullen from you list. He passed 3 years ago

On October 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrot=
e:

.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
thanks
tim


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

cox.net




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<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font=
-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir=3D"ltr">
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">Sorry for your loss.&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">I'm pretty sure that there is an =
&quot;unsubscribe&quot; link somewhere in this email string.&nbsp;</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> elans4 elans4 &lt;ela=
ns4@cox.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 27, 2018 9:14 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim .; Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Please remove Tim Mullen from you list. He passed 3 years ago<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On October 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM &quot;Tim .&quot; =
&lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&gt; wrote:
<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir=3D"ltr" style=3D"font-size:12pt; col=
or:#000000; font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif">
.....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on woo=
d to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
<div>thanks </div>
<div>tim </div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
&nbsp;
<blockquote type=3D"cite">_______________________________________________ <=
br>
<br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net <br>
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk <br>
<br>
cox.net
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
&nbsp; </div>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 10:49:04 2018
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2018 12:45:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: elans4 elans4 <elans4@cox.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <MWHPR13MB130983926BCFD7F5CB79BF6BB4F00@MWHPR13MB1309.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>,
 <177654329.497771.1540649657117@myemail.cox.net>
 <CY4PR13MB1302B09E83F60B8FDF2C0BE6B4F20@CY4PR13MB1302.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Importance: Medium
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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tHANK YOU; HE LOVED YOU GUYS!
jO


> On October 27, 2018 at 11:07 PM "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
> 
>     Sorry for your loss. 
> 
>     I'm pretty sure that there is an "unsubscribe" link somewhere in this email string. 
> 
> 
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------
>     From: elans4 elans4 <elans4@cox.net>
>     Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2018 9:14 AM
>     To: Tim .; Shop Talk
>     Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....
>      
>     Please remove Tim Mullen from you list. He passed 3 years ago
> 
> 
>         > > On October 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
> > 
> >         .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it?
> >         thanks
> >         tim
> > 
> >     >      
> 
>         > > _______________________________________________
> > 
> >         Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Suggested annual donation $12.96
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/elans4@cox.net
> > 
> > 
> >     >      
> 
 

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset="UTF-8">
<style type="text/css" style="display: none;">P {margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;}
</style></head><body>tHANK YOU; HE LOVED YOU GUYS!<br>jO<br>
 
 
  <br>
  <blockquote type="cite">  
    
     On October 27, 2018 at 11:07 PM &#34;Tim .&#34; &#60;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&#62; wrote:
   <br>
   <br> 
   <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper" style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-family: Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;" dir="ltr"> 
    <p style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;">Sorry for your loss.&#160;</p> 
    <p style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;"><br> </p> 
    <p style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;">I&#39;m pretty sure that there is an &#34;unsubscribe&#34; link somewhere in this email string.&#160;</p> 
    <br> 
    <br> 
    <div style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"> 
     <hr style="display: inline-block; width: 98%;"> 
     <div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr">
      <font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> elans4 elans4 &#60;elans4@cox.net&#62;<br> <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 27, 2018 9:14 AM<br> <b>To:</b> Tim .; Shop Talk<br> <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] oddball off the wall question....</font> 
      <div>
       &#160;
      </div> 
     </div> 
     <div>
      Please remove Tim Mullen from you list. He passed 3 years ago
      <br> 
      <br> 
      <blockquote type="cite">
       On October 26, 2018 at 3:18 PM &#34;Tim .&#34; &#60;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&#62; wrote: 
       <br> 
       <br> 
       <div id="x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir="ltr" style="font-size: 12pt; color: #000000; font-family: Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
         .....I need to dissolve wood. I believe it is pine. What can I spray on wood to somewhat slowly dissolve it? 
        <div>
         thanks 
        </div> 
        <div>
         tim 
        </div> 
       </div> 
      </blockquote> 
      <br> &#160; 
      <blockquote type="cite">
       _______________________________________________ 
       <br> 
       <br> Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
       <br> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
       <br> Suggested annual donation $12.96 
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From: Robert Nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 09:57:19 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Crawl space Vents
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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The house attached to my garage is pier and beam with a crawl space.  On two=
 ends of the foundation are some vents which have removable covers. The cove=
rs have been on for many years,  The crawl space is bone dry.
The question, do need to remove the covers?  If so which season?
Thanks,
 Bob in Texas=20=

--Apple-Mail-16C73EC1-D4BC-4EB1-8C59-EF77E1503AF2
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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The house attached to my garage is pier and beam with a crawl space.&nbsp; On two ends of the foundation are some vents which have removable covers. The covers have been on for many years,&nbsp; The crawl space is bone dry.</span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The question, do need to remove the covers?&nbsp; If so which season?</span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Thanks,</span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">&nbsp;Bob in Texas&nbsp;</span></p></body></html>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 18:34:28 2018
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 14:33:04 -0500
References: <A1379A23-F135-4D12-B8EF-FFE1BE1A2C9E@me.com>
To: Robert Nogueira <nogera@me.com>
 definitions=2018-10-30_11:, , signatures=0
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Crawl space Vents
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My understanding is the vents are there to keep humidity down. Moisture come=
s out of the dirt & from the house above. Some houses have poly on the dirt &=
 some have insulated floors, both of which cut down on the moisture. Take a l=
ook at the floor structure. Is there any sign of mold? If not, I wouldn=E2=80=
=99t bother taking the covers off. If there is, I=E2=80=99d take care of the=
 mold, repair any damage, add poly & leave the vents open. It wouldn=E2=80=99=
t hurt to have a fee contractors take a look & make suggestions.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Oct 30, 2018, at 9:57 AM, Robert Nogueira <nogera@me.com> wrote:

The house attached to my garage is pier and beam with a crawl space.  On two=
 ends of the foundation are some vents which have removable covers. The cove=
rs have been on for many years,  The crawl space is bone dry.
The question, do need to remove the covers?  If so which season?
Thanks,
 Bob in Texas=20
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

as@icloud.com


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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">My understanding is the vents are there to k=
eep humidity down. Moisture comes out of the dirt &amp; from the house above=
. Some houses have poly on the dirt &amp; some have insulated floors, both o=
f which cut down on the moisture. Take a look at the floor structure. Is the=
re any sign of mold? If not, I wouldn=E2=80=99t bother taking the covers off=
. If there is, I=E2=80=99d take care of the mold, repair any damage, add pol=
y &amp; leave the vents open. It wouldn=E2=80=99t hurt to have a fee contrac=
tors take a look &amp; make suggestions.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Peace,</di=
v><div>Pat<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne&nbsp;=
<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 30, 2018, at 9:57 AM, Robert Nogueira &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:nogera@me.com">nogera@me.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"><p style=3D"margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">=
<span style=3D"font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"=
>The house attached to my garage is pier and beam with a crawl space.&nbsp; O=
n two ends of the foundation are some vents which have removable covers. The=
 covers have been on for many years,&nbsp; The crawl space is bone dry.</spa=
n></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The qu=
estion, do need to remove the covers?&nbsp; If so which season?</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Thanks=
,</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">&nbsp;=
Bob in Texas&nbsp;</span></p></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>__________________=
_____________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"ma=
ilto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>=
te.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br=
><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://w=
ww.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubsc=
ribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pati=
ntexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexa=
s@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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 Tue, 30 Oct 2018 12:54:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 14:54:15 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2188746648160241837==

--0000000000008e13aa0579778dd2

Guys,

I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
Draw is 4 amps.

Thanks,

Scott

--0000000000008e13aa0579778dd2
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<div dir=3D"auto">Guys,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I need=
 about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3=
 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 a=
mps.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks,=C2=A0</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div></div>

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 21:04:05 2018
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <A1379A23-F135-4D12-B8EF-FFE1BE1A2C9E@me.com>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 18:28:23 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Crawl space Vents
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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The answer is it probably depends on which part of the country you live 
in.Â  If you're in the eastern half of Texas where relative humidity 
levels in the summer might hover around 70%, you can make a strong 
argument that the vents should be shut year-round.Â  The idea that 
allowing cross-airflow to carry moisture out of the building doesn't 
work if the air you're outside air you're drawing in has even higher 
water content.

Decades ago, the belief was that crawlspaces needed to have good 
airflow.Â  Some people even replaced their vents with small fans.Â  These 
days the mindset, including that of the Department of Energy, seems to 
fall solidly into the seal-up-your-crawlspace school of thought.

J


On 10/30/18 10:57, Robert Nogueira wrote:
>
> The house attached to my garage is pier and beam with a crawl space.Â  
> On two ends of the foundation are some vents which have removable 
> covers. The covers have been on for many years,Â  The crawl space is 
> bone dry.
>
> The question, do need to remove the covers?Â  If so which season?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Â Bob in Texas
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
>


--------------E0D22F722873DF030C0BEDAF
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>The answer is it probably depends on which part of the country
      you live in.Â  If you're in the eastern half of Texas where
      relative humidity levels in the summer might hover around 70%, you
      can make a strong argument that the vents should be shut
      year-round.Â  The idea that allowing cross-airflow to carry
      moisture out of the building doesn't work if the air you're
      outside air you're drawing in has even higher water content.Â  <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Decades ago, the belief was that
      crawlspaces needed to have good airflow.Â  Some people even
      replaced their vents with small fans.Â  These days the mindset,
      including that of the Department of Energy, seems to fall solidly
      into the seal-up-your-crawlspace school of thought.<br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">J</div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/30/18 10:57, Robert Nogueira
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:A1379A23-F135-4D12-B8EF-FFE1BE1A2C9E@me.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span
          style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255,
          255, 0);">The house attached to my garage is pier and beam
          with a crawl space.Â  On two ends of the foundation are some
          vents which have removable covers. The covers have been on for
          many years,Â  The crawl space is bone dry.</span></p>
      <p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span
          style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255,
          255, 0);">The question, do need to remove the covers?Â  If so
          which season?</span></p>
      <p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span
          style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255,
          255, 0);">Thanks,</span></p>
      <p style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span
          style="font-weight: bold; background-color: rgba(255, 255,
          255, 0);">Â Bob in TexasÂ </span></p>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
  </body>
</html>

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References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 21:13:14 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0626640545780901580==

--000000000000651ca805797c0276

On Oct 30, 2018 8:57 PM, "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:

Guys,

I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
Draw is 4 amps.


What sort of load? Resistive, or ?

What sort of duty cycle?

What sort of duration?

In general, it's probably ok, but still wouldn't hurt to have some details.

--000000000000651ca805797c0276
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div><br><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gma=
il_quote">On Oct 30, 2018 8:57 PM, &quot;Scott Hall&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"quote" style=3D"margin:0=
 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Gu=
ys,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I need about 300 get of ex=
tension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of those together w=
ithout a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</div></div></bl=
ockquote></div></div></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Wh=
at sort of load? Resistive, or ?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">What sort of duty cycle?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"auto">What sort of duration?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">In general, it&#39;s probably ok, but still wouldn&#39;t hurt to =
have some details.</div><div dir=3D"auto"></div><div dir=3D"auto"><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_extra"><br></div></div></div>

--000000000000651ca805797c0276--

--===============0626640545780901580==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0626640545780901580==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 23:05:47 2018
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 <CAO8Q7CNyrVMGVsa9hUpAyDpj+3cbcxq61nYE_ak=iNtT8Cc_1w@mail.gmail.com>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 20:18:18 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3872338341599903883==

--000000000000752e7e05797c14cb

Sigh. I have to admit this in a public forum?

It's a power tool. Comparable to a chainsaw. I wanted the gas version, but
I'll use it maybe twice a year, it's $40 vs. $200, and the electric one is
about half the weight.

I never thought I'd be the sort of person to own one of these, but here I
am...

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018, 8:13 PM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Oct 30, 2018 8:57 PM, "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
> string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
> Draw is 4 amps.
>
>
> What sort of load? Resistive, or ?
>
> What sort of duty cycle?
>
> What sort of duration?
>
> In general, it's probably ok, but still wouldn't hurt to have some details.
>
>

--000000000000752e7e05797c14cb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Sigh. I have to admit this in a public forum?</div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">It&#39;s a power tool. Compara=
ble to a chainsaw. I wanted the gas version, but I&#39;ll use it maybe twic=
e a year, it&#39;s=C2=A0<span class=3D"money">$40</span>=C2=A0vs. <span cla=
ss=3D"money">$200,</span>=C2=A0and the electric one is about half the weigh=
t.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I never thought I&#39=
;d be the sort of person to own one of these, but here I am...</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr">On =
Tue, Oct 30, 2018, 8:13 PM Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fishplate@=
gmail.com">fishplate@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding=
-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div><br><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote">On Oct 30, 2018 8:57 PM, &quot;Scott Hall&quot; &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attributio=
n"><blockquote class=3D"m_1103196133563860000quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .=
8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Guys,<di=
v dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I need about 300 get of extensio=
n cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of those together without=
 a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</div></div></blockquo=
te></div></div></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">What sor=
t of load? Resistive, or ?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">What sort of duty cycle?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"au=
to">What sort of duration?</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">In general, it&#39;s probably ok, but still wouldn&#39;t hurt to have so=
me details.</div><div dir=3D"auto"></div><div dir=3D"auto"><div class=3D"gm=
ail_extra"><br></div></div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

--000000000000752e7e05797c14cb--

--===============3872338341599903883==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============3872338341599903883==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 23:21:34 2018
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References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 20:39:05 -0500
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2697016223629984840==

--000000000000d2c50c05797c5e05

Depends on what you are going to do with it.  300' of 16awg drawing 4a will
drop about 9.5v.  Most things won't care about that low of a voltage drop.
But consider that you are loosing about 8% over that distance.  Also
consider surge loads like motors starting and such.  Powering a few lights,
no problem.  Starting a motor (like a drill or fridge compressor), might be
an issue.  If the motor start current is double the running current, you
now have a drop of over 19v this is a big hit.  By contrast, moving up to
14 gauge will get you down to about 6v drop or only 5% loss steady state
and 12v drop surge.  Might be worth it if you have larger surge loads and
equipment that cares.

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 7:57 PM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
> string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
> Draw is 4 amps.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--000000000000d2c50c05797c5e05
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Depends on what you are going to do with it.=C2=A0 300&#39=
; of 16awg drawing 4a will drop about 9.5v.=C2=A0 Most things won&#39;t car=
e about that low of a voltage drop.=C2=A0 But consider that you are loosing=
 about 8% over that distance.=C2=A0 Also consider surge loads like motors s=
tarting and such.=C2=A0 Powering a few lights, no problem.=C2=A0 Starting a=
 motor (like a drill or fridge compressor), might be an issue.=C2=A0 If the=
 motor start current is double the running current, you now have a drop of =
over 19v this is a big hit.=C2=A0 By contrast, moving up to 14 gauge will g=
et you down to about 6v drop or only 5% loss steady state and 12v drop surg=
e.=C2=A0 Might be worth it if you have larger surge loads and equipment tha=
t cares.<br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, O=
ct 30, 2018 at 7:57 PM Scott Hall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal=
@gmail.com">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquo=
te class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc so=
lid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Guys,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at =
100 ft. Can I string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go =
up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">Thanks,=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</=
div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
<br>=3D Never offend people with style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can =
offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
</div>

--000000000000d2c50c05797c5e05--

--===============2697016223629984840==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============2697016223629984840==--

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References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 22:04:21 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1994365408331266803==

--00000000000019560105797cb903
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What=E2=80=99s it powering and will it mind the voltage drop?
10 AWG will drop 3%
12 AWG will drop 5%
14 AWG is not recommended, so I assume 16 is definitely not recommended.
Here=E2=80=99s the online calculator I=E2=80=99ve used
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=3D1

Best,
Ian


On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 8:59 PM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
> string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
> Draw is 4 amps.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>

--00000000000019560105797cb903
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div><div dir=3D"auto">What=E2=80=99s it powering and will it mind the volt=
age drop? =C2=A0</div></div><div dir=3D"auto">10 AWG will drop 3%</div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">12 AWG will drop 5%</div><div dir=3D"auto">14 AWG is not reco=
mmended, so I assume 16 is definitely not recommended.=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Here=E2=80=99s the online calculator I=E2=80=99ve used</div><div =
dir=3D"auto"><div><a href=3D"http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?Asp=
xAutoDetectCookieSupport=3D1">http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?As=
pxAutoDetectCookieSupport=3D1</a></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Best,</div><div dir=3D"auto">Ian</div><br></div><div><br><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 8:59 PM Scott H=
all &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com">scott.hall.persona=
l@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=
=3D"auto">Guys,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I need about 3=
00 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of thos=
e together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks,=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div>

--00000000000019560105797cb903--

--===============1994365408331266803==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============1994365408331266803==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 00:45:25 2018
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References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 21:09:30 -0500
To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3683880184596753907==

--00000000000020c10f05797ccdda

I'd suggest running some voltage drop calcs for that distance. We always
use 12 AWG for anything over 25 feet.

FWIW,
Ron

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 8:01 PM Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
> string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
> Draw is 4 amps.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
>
>

--00000000000020c10f05797ccdda
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;d suggest running some voltage drop calcs for that d=
istance. We always use 12 AWG for anything over 25 feet.<div><br></div><div=
>FWIW,</div><div>Ron</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 8:01 PM Scott Hall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:scott=
.hall.personal@gmail.com">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-le=
ft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Guys,<div dir=3D"auto=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AW=
G was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of those together without a problem, o=
r should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><=
div dir=3D"auto">Thanks,=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto">Scott</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
alk/ronnie.day@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--00000000000020c10f05797ccdda--

--===============3683880184596753907==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============3683880184596753907==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 01:01:55 2018
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 22:13:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.20.16 (BSF 172 2016-09-29)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 30 Oct 2018, Scott Hall wrote:
> I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I
> string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
> Draw is 4 amps.

<http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx>

    Depends on your allowable voltage drop.  At 3%, this calculator says 
you need 10 gauge.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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It comes down to voltage drop.Â  You generally don't want voltage drop of 
more than around 5%.


At 4 amps, a 100ft 16ga cord is going to have a voltage drop of about 
3.5V.Â  This is okay.Â  At 300ft, the voltage drop will be about 9.5V.Â  
That's unacceptable.Â  Assuming your equipment still functions, your cord 
would be dissipating around 40W of heat due to internal resistance.

300ft of 14ga cord will have a drop of around 6V.Â  That's marginal.

12ga cord will have a drop of about 3.75V.Â  That's okay.

So go with 12ga cord.


J


On 10/30/18 15:54, Scott Hall wrote:
> Guys,
>
> I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can 
> I string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a 
> size? Draw is 4 amps.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
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>


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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>It comes down to voltage drop.Â  You generally don't want voltage
      drop of more than around 5%.<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>At 4 amps, a 100ft 16ga cord is going to have a voltage drop of
      about 3.5V.Â  This is okay.Â  At 300ft, the voltage drop will be
      about 9.5V.Â  That's unacceptable.Â  Assuming your equipment still
      functions, your cord would be dissipating around 40W of heat due
      to internal resistance.</p>
    <p>300ft of 14ga cord will have a drop of around 6V.Â  That's
      marginal.</p>
    <p>12ga cord will have a drop of about 3.75V.Â  That's okay.</p>
    <p>So go with 12ga cord. <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">J<br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/30/18 15:54, Scott Hall wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">Guys,
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG
          was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of those together without a
          problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Thanks,Â </div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Scott</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
  </body>
</html>

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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2018 23:22:14 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
 mail.com>
References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a lot of guidance out there about =

selecting extension cords.  Here's one:

http://www.diybyexample.info/2010/07/what-size-extension-cord-do-i-need/

Scroll down to the table.  According to that, you =

should go up a couple of sizes.

-Steve T.

At 03:54 PM 10/30/2018, Scott Hall wrote:
>Guys,
>
>I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG =

>was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of those =

>together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.
>
>Thanks,=C2
>
>Scott


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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
 vYfBZQD43fQy6QrPulbQfhV9HsTMsS7RM3sHIxMzECSVb+RmXfLpc6VDIhlvJgCL0Cc3PP88+aroWQ==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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If I've done my math right, you'll lose about 10 volts=2E So it depends on =
whether your load cares about that much drop=2E In most cases, you should b=
e fine=2E
-- Randall

On 30 October 2018 12:54:15 GMT-07:00, Scott Hall <scott=2Ehall=2Epersonal=
@gmail=2Ecom> wrote:
>Guys,
>
>I need about 300 get of extension cord=2E 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft=2E Ca=
n
>I
>string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size?
>Draw is 4 amps=2E
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scott

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<html><head></head><body>If I've done my math right, you'll lose about 10 v=
olts=2E So it depends on whether your load cares about that much drop=2E In=
 most cases, you should be fine=2E<br>-- Randall<br><br><div class=3D"gmail=
_quote">On 30 October 2018 12:54:15 GMT-07:00, Scott Hall &lt;scott=2Ehall=
=2Epersonal@gmail=2Ecom&gt; wrote:<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);=
 padding-left: 1ex;">
<div dir=3D"auto">Guys,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I nee=
d about 300 get of extension cord=2E 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft=2E Can I str=
ing 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw i=
s 4 amps=2E</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks,&nbsp=
;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div></div>
</blockquote></div></body></html>
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From: "Neil Sherry" <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <9043b31f-710f-09e5-4a38-8efb4078f33e@sackheads.org>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 08:40:01 -0000
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Content-Language: en-gb
 QN/4PNPeMU0gzx4tug72HgbWvJFBW+yNo7okcxPccttPFdC/vou17Lnb
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Comes back to =E2=80=98will it work=E2=80=99 which will depend on the =
device. In some places the utility companies are reducing line voltages =
to save energy =E2=80=93 and stuff still works.

Only issue with the 40W dissipation would be if the cable was still =
coiled up =E2=80=93 then it would build up, melt the insulation and be a =
hazard. Over 300 feet the heat per foot would be negligible =E2=80=93 in =
fact more or less the same as it would be whatever the length of cable =
(actually a bit less, as the current is less due to the combined =
resistance).

Neil

=20

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jimmie =
Mayfield
Sent: 31 October 2018 02:56
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge

=20

It comes down to voltage drop.  You generally don't want voltage drop of =
more than around 5%.

=20

At 4 amps, a 100ft 16ga cord is going to have a voltage drop of about =
3.5V.  This is okay.  At 300ft, the voltage drop will be about 9.5V.  =
That's unacceptable.  Assuming your equipment still functions, your cord =
would be dissipating around 40W of heat due to internal resistance.

300ft of 14ga cord will have a drop of around 6V.  That's marginal.

12ga cord will have a drop of about 3.75V.  That's okay.

So go with 12ga cord.=20

=20

J

=20

=20

On 10/30/18 15:54, Scott Hall wrote:

Guys,=20

=20

I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I =
string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? =
Draw is 4 amps.

=20

Thanks,=20

=20

Scott





_______________________________________________
=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackhea=
ds.org
=20

=20


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lang=3DEN-GB link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Comes back =
to =E2=80=98will it work=E2=80=99 which will depend on the device. In =
some places the utility companies are reducing line voltages to save =
energy =E2=80=93 and stuff still works.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Only issue =
with the 40W dissipation would be if the cable was still coiled up =
=E2=80=93 then it would build up, melt the insulation and be a hazard. =
Over 300 feet the heat per foot would be negligible =E2=80=93 in fact =
more or less the same as it would be whatever the length of cable =
(actually a bit less, as the current is less due to the combined =
resistance).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Neil<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Shop-talk =
&lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Jimmie =
Mayfield<br><b>Sent:</b> 31 October 2018 02:56<br><b>To:</b> =
shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Extension =
cord length vs. wire gauge<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>It comes down to voltage =
drop.&nbsp; You generally don't want voltage drop of more than around =
5%.<o:p></o:p></p><p><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>At 4 amps, a 100ft 16ga =
cord is going to have a voltage drop of about 3.5V.&nbsp; This is =
okay.&nbsp; At 300ft, the voltage drop will be about 9.5V.&nbsp; That's =
unacceptable.&nbsp; Assuming your equipment still functions, your cord =
would be dissipating around 40W of heat due to internal =
resistance.<o:p></o:p></p><p>300ft of 14ga cord will have a drop of =
around 6V.&nbsp; That's marginal.<o:p></o:p></p><p>12ga cord will have a =
drop of about 3.75V.&nbsp; That's okay.<o:p></o:p></p><p>So go with 12ga =
cord. <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>J<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 10/30/18 15:54, Scott Hall =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Guys, <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I =
string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? =
Draw is 4 amps.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Scott<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>___________________________=
____________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><o:p=
></o:p></pre><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 =
$12.96<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipe=
rmail/shop-talk</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>Unsu=
bscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk=
@sackheads.org">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+=
shoptalk@sackheads.org</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre></=
blockquote><p><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_009F_01D470F5.50598710--


--===============1976059436874122150==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============1976059436874122150==--


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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 11:45:20 +0000 (UTC)
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: scott.hall.personal@gmail.com, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <829427835.19757912.1540986320510.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 x64; rv:63.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/63.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0150830386675245120==
	boundary="----=_Part_19757911_1824265241.1540986320508"

------=_Part_19757911_1824265241.1540986320508
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 16 AWG wire has a resistance of about 4 ohms per 1000 ft.=C2=A0 A 300 ft r=
un there and back will mean the current has a 600 ft round trip.=C2=A0 600 =
ft at 4 ohms per 1000ft means there is a total of 2.4 ohms.=C2=A0 2.4 ohms =
times 4 amps equals 9.6 volt drop in voltage.=C2=A0 If your load handles a =
10% drop in voltage you should be fine.
Keep in ind that the "Neutral" connection at the load will be about 5 volts=
 above earth ground but if that is all insulated there should be no issue.=
=C2=A0 It won't kill you but you will probably feel it if you do touch it.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 30, 2018 7:52 pm
Subject: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge

Guys,
I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I st=
ring 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw =
is 4 amps.
Thanks,=C2=A0
Scott_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk




------=_Part_19757911_1824265241.1540986320508
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<font color='black' size='3' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size="3">16 AWG wire has a resistance of about 4 ohms per 1000 ft.&nbsp; A 300 ft run there and back will mean the current has a 600 ft round trip.&nbsp; 600 ft at 4 ohms per 1000ft means there is a total of 2.4 ohms.&nbsp; 2.4 ohms times 4 amps equals 9.6 volt drop in voltage.&nbsp; If your load handles a 10% drop in voltage you should be fine.</font></div>

<div><font size="3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size="3">Keep in ind that the "Neutral" connection at the load will be about 5 volts above earth ground but if that is all insulated there should be no issue.&nbsp; It won't kill you but you will probably feel it if you do touch it.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Scott Hall &lt;scott.hall.personal@gmail.com&gt;<br>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net &lt;Shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Tue, Oct 30, 2018 7:52 pm<br>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge<br>
<br>

<div id="yiv0172454223">
<div>Guys,
<div><br>
</div>

<div>I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw is 4 amps.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Thanks,&nbsp;</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Scott</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a ymailto="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" rel="noopener noreferrer" removedlink__9ae37a1f-4a0d-4ae9-a78d-386d03f46a45__href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
Archive: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" removedlink__9ae37a1f-4a0d-4ae9-a78d-386d03f46a45__href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
</font>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0150830386675245120==--

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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 11:53:18 +0000 (UTC)
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: scott.hall.personal@gmail.com, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <44303009.19744090.1540986798938.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 x64; rv:63.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/63.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2206375522541923115==
	boundary="----=_Part_19744089_112514399.1540986798935"

------=_Part_19744089_112514399.1540986798935
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Hey!=C2=A0 There's no shame in using an electric chainsaw.=C2=A0 Only thos=
e with a shaky confidence level in his manhood would feel emasculated using=
 an electric chainsaw.=C2=A0=20

Electric makes a lot of sense for a power tool that is used infrequently.=
=C2=A0 Gas goes bad, carbs foul up, oil goes stale.=C2=A0 All these issues =
go away with electric.
The 10 volt drop I predicted in a previous post will result in a slightly s=
lower chainsaw but you may not even notice.
=20
Dave (I have an electric chainsaw and I use it every couple of years, brief=
ly)

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2018 12:07 am
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge

Sigh. I have to admit this in a public forum?
It's a power tool. Comparable to a chainsaw. I wanted the gas version, but =
I'll use it maybe twice a year, it's=C2=A0$40=C2=A0vs. $200,=C2=A0and the e=
lectric one is about half the weight.
I never thought I'd be the sort of person to own one of these, but here I a=
m...
On Tue, Oct 30, 2018, 8:13 PM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:



On Oct 30, 2018 8:57 PM, "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote=
:

Guys,
I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can I st=
ring 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? Draw =
is 4 amps.

What sort of load? Resistive, or ?
What sort of duty cycle?
What sort of duration?
In general, it's probably ok, but still wouldn't hurt to have some details.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk

ssey@cs.com


------=_Part_19744089_112514399.1540986798935
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<font color=3D'black' size=3D'3' face=3D'Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size=3D"3">Hey!&nbsp; There's no shame in using an electric cha=
insaw.&nbsp; Only those with a shaky confidence level in his manhood would =
feel emasculated using an electric chainsaw.&nbsp; <br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">Electric makes a lot of sense for a power tool that i=
s used infrequently.&nbsp; Gas goes bad, carbs foul up, oil goes stale.&nbs=
p; All these issues go away with electric.</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">The 10 volt drop I predicted in a previous post will =
result in a slightly slower chainsaw but you may not even notice.</font><br=
>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave <font size=3D"3">(I have an=
 electric chainsaw and I use it every couple of years, briefly)</font></fon=
t><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Scott Hall &lt;scott.hall.personal@gmail.com&gt;<br>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net &lt;Shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2018 12:07 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv3660469740">
<div>
<div>
<div>Sigh. I have to admit this in a public forum?</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>It's a power tool. Comparable to a chainsaw. I wanted the gas version,=
 but I'll use it maybe twice a year, it's&nbsp;<span class=3D"yiv3660469740=
money">$40</span>&nbsp;vs. <span class=3D"yiv3660469740money">$200,</span>&=
nbsp;and the electric one is about half the weight.</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>I never thought I'd be the sort of person to own one of these, but her=
e I am...</div>

<div class=3D"yiv3660469740yqt0805912796" id=3D"yiv3660469740yqt87426">
<div><br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv3660469740gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Oct 30, 2018, 8:13 PM Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a rel=
=3D"noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:fishplate@gmail.c=
om" target=3D"_blank" removedlink__430d46e7-4ba5-4592-aa5e-eafc316354b5__hr=
ef=3D"mailto:fishplate@gmail.com">fishplate@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br cle=
ar=3D"none"></div>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv3660469740gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv3660469740gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv3660469740gmail_quote">On Oct 30, 2018 8:57 PM, "Scott Hal=
l" &lt;<a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:scot=
t.hall.personal@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" removedlink__430d46e7-4ba5-459=
2-aa5e-eafc316354b5__href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com">scott.ha=
ll.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"><blockquote class=3D=
"yiv3660469740m_1103196133563860000quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div>Guys,
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>I need about 300 get of extension cord. 16 AWG was fine at 100 ft. Can=
 I string 3 of those together without a problem, or should I go up a size? =
Draw is 4 amps.</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
</div>
</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>What sort of load? Resistive, or ?</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>What sort of duty cycle?</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>What sort of duration?</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>In general, it's probably ok, but still wouldn't hurt to have some det=
ails.</div>

<div></div>

<div>
<div class=3D"yiv3660469740gmail_extra"><br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
</div>

</blockquote></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<div class=3D"yqt0805912796" id=3D"yqt99230">______________________________=
_________________<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"><a shape=3D"rect" ym=
ailto=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" remov=
edlink__430d46e7-4ba5-4592-aa5e-eafc316354b5__href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@auto=
x.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br clear=3D"none">Donate: <a shape=
=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" removedlink__430d46=
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tp://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br clear=3D"none">Suggested annual donati=
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nk" rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" removedlink__430d46e7-4ba5-4592-aa5e-eafc31=
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</div>
</font>
------=_Part_19744089_112514399.1540986798935--

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 10:09:18 2018
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 <44303009.19744090.1540986798938@mail.yahoo.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 09:59:15 -0400
 10/31/2018 09:59:17 AM,
 Serialize complete at 10/31/2018 09:59:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============0043300681193524019==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 004CD70185258337_=

OK, I hate to be 'that guy' but have you looked at this...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A little pricey, BUT it is an excuse to buy a tool, AND you can use it for 
a lot of other things.  I have this model and I run a firewood farm.  My 
jaw dropped the first time I use this thing.

It is a beast, the batteries do last long.  The kerf is very narrow, so I 
think that is why the performance is so great.

Arguments for...

-It's way safer than a gas powered unit
-You do not need to worry about extension cords (if you are making this 
augment to an SO, also add "Honey, if I accidentally nick the wire with 
the chainsaw, I might get electrocuted.  You don't want that, do you?)*
-Instead of being 'ashamed' of the electric saw, you get to proclaim this 
awesomeness
-the batteries are compatible with other Dewalt items, SO there is 
possible more tool goodness to come.
-Did I mention bragging rights?
-You can even use to it trim wood to use in projects, like if you make 
bowls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I do use this for it.)
-You can use it inside if you need to do demo/home repair
-It's Dewalt, so that is cool

Just some food for thought.

*= I'm a 47 year old bachelor.  I do not know anything about long term 
marriages,so this may not work.  YMMV.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Tech Viper
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 004CD70185258337_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, I hate to be 'that guy' but have you
looked at this...</font>
<br>
<br><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</font></a>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">A little pricey, BUT it is an excuse
to buy a tool, AND you can use it for a lot of other things. &nbsp;I have
this model and I run a firewood farm. &nbsp;My jaw dropped the first time
I use this thing.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">It is a beast, the batteries do last
long. &nbsp;The kerf is very narrow, so I think that is why the performance
is so great.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Arguments for...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-It's way safer than a gas powered unit</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-You do not need to worry about extension
cords (if you are making this augment to an SO, also add &quot;Honey, if
I accidentally nick the wire with the chainsaw, I might get electrocuted.
&nbsp;You don't want that, do you?)*</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-Instead of being 'ashamed' of the electric
saw, you get to proclaim this awesomeness</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-the batteries are compatible with other
Dewalt items, SO there is possible more tool goodness to come.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-Did I mention bragging rights?</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-You can even use to it trim wood to
use in projects, like if you make bowls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I
do use this for it.)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-You can use it inside if you need to
do demo/home repair</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">-It's Dewalt, so that is cool</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Just some food for thought.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">*= I'm a 47 year old bachelor. &nbsp;I
do not know anything about long term marriages,so this may not work. &nbsp;YMMV.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 004CD70185258337_=--

--===============0043300681193524019==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============0043300681193524019==--

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 <009e01d470f5$50598710$f10c9530$@talktalk.net>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 10:06:15 -0400
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
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> -You can even use to it trim wood to use in projects, like if you make 
> bowls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I do use this for it.)
> -You can use it inside if you need to do demo/home repair

- There might be a career in ice-sculpture carving ahead.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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 Wed, 31 Oct 2018 09:49:04 -0700 (PDT)
References: <44303009.19744090.1540986798938.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <44303009.19744090.1540986798938@mail.yahoo.com>
 <OF630B2732.B2861DD4-ON85258337.004BFB5E-85258337.004CD702@mail.megageek.com>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 12:48:50 -0400
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7467264042004173511==

--000000000000715d520579891437

It's a hedge-trimmer.

A goddamned hedge trimmer for the the goddamned hedges.

I went and bought a house with...shrubbery. It's a nice house and I like
it. In a neighborhood. A nice one. With neighbors. Kinda rich ones, with
yard people that keep their yards looking _very_ nice.

I am having more than a little difficulty with the idea that I own a house
with shrubs that need to be maintained. I mean, I saw them when I looked at
the house, butt I guess it didn't register. And as much as anything else, I
don't want the neighbors to think I'm bringing down their neighborhood. I
already bought this as a foreclosure and they're all kind of acting like I
saved that end of the street from an ogre.

This is actually kind of a thing for me. I used to race motorcycles all
weekend. People that "have people" make my ass twitch a little bit. I got a
guy for stuff back home--they have...staff. One guy's watch cost more than
my house, I think. I'm not sure I belong here, no matter how much money I
make. I don't want to own any "hedges". At least not the plant kind.

But I like this house, on this lot, and I'd like to be a good neighbor, and
they're nice folks and probably don't deserve me bringing down their
property values. And how much this is getting to me is ALSO getting to me.

But anyway, I need a f*ck#ng hedge trimmer for these hedges and some sort
of cover plant that I like along the driveway. He called it honeysuckle.

I dislike the idea of even owning a *hedge trimmer* enough that I don't
want to spend any coin on it. I'd buy the gas version and slap an expansion
chamber on it and get my rocks off that way, but (also problematic for me)
the grown up in my head is noting that might be a pointless waste of money.
These things need to be cut twice a year, max, I'd bet...and I don't
envision myself becoming the sort of person that schools sculpts and
topiary.

Anyway, thanks for the suggestion Eric. I'll see if I can get a hedge
trimmer for that setup.

Convince me about battery life. I swore off cordless tools after going
all-in on Milwaukee 18v kit twenty years ago and having the batteries last
a few months each. I have this whole ecosystem of useless tools because I
got tired of spending $60 a pop for new packs. On sale.

How long are those lasting you? How frequently do you charge them? Can they
sit for months and still hold a charge when used again or do I have to baby
them?

Thanks,

Scott

On Wed, Oct 31, 2018, 12:11 PM <eric@megageek.com wrote:

> OK, I hate to be 'that guy' but have you looked at this...
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> A little pricey, BUT it is an excuse to buy a tool, AND you can use it for
> a lot of other things.  I have this model and I run a firewood farm.  My
> jaw dropped the first time I use this thing.
>
> It is a beast, the batteries do last long.  The kerf is very narrow, so I
> think that is why the performance is so great.
>
> Arguments for...
>
> -It's way safer than a gas powered unit
> -You do not need to worry about extension cords (if you are making this
> augment to an SO, also add "Honey, if I accidentally nick the wire with the
> chainsaw, I might get electrocuted.  You don't want that, do you?)*
> -Instead of being 'ashamed' of the electric saw, you get to proclaim this
> awesomeness
> -the batteries are compatible with other Dewalt items, SO there is
> possible more tool goodness to come.
> -Did I mention bragging rights?
> -You can even use to it trim wood to use in projects, like if you make
> bowls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I do use this for it.)
> -You can use it inside if you need to do demo/home repair
> -It's Dewalt, so that is cool
>
> Just some food for thought.
>
> *= I'm a 47 year old bachelor.  I do not know anything about long term
> marriages,so this may not work.  YMMV.
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Tech Viper
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000715d520579891437
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">It&#39;s a hedge-trimmer.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">A goddamned hedge trimmer for the the goddamned hedges.</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I went and bought a house wit=
h...shrubbery. It&#39;s a nice house and I like it. In a neighborhood. A ni=
ce one. With neighbors. Kinda rich ones, with yard people that keep their y=
ards looking _very_ nice.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">I am having more than a little difficulty with the idea that I ow=
n a house with shrubs that need to be maintained. I mean, I saw them when I=
 looked at the house, butt I guess it didn&#39;t register. And as much as a=
nything else, I don&#39;t want the neighbors to think I&#39;m bringing down=
 their neighborhood. I already bought this as a foreclosure and they&#39;re=
 all kind of acting like I saved that end of the street from an ogre.</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">This is actually kind of a th=
ing for me. I used to race motorcycles all weekend. People that &quot;have =
people&quot; make my ass twitch a little bit. I got a guy for stuff back ho=
me--they have...staff. One guy&#39;s watch cost more than my house, I think=
. I&#39;m not sure I belong here, no matter how much money I make. I don&#3=
9;t want to own any &quot;hedges&quot;. At least not the plant kind.=C2=A0<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">But I like this house, o=
n this lot, and I&#39;d like to be a good neighbor, and they&#39;re nice fo=
lks and probably don&#39;t deserve me bringing down their property values. =
And how much this is getting to me is ALSO getting to me.</div><div dir=3D"=
auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">But anyway, I need a f*ck#ng hedge trimme=
r for these hedges and some sort of cover plant that I like along the drive=
way. He called it honeysuckle.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto">I dislike the idea of even owning a *hedge trimmer* enough that I do=
n&#39;t want to spend any coin on it. I&#39;d buy the gas version and slap =
an expansion chamber on it and get my rocks off that way, but (also problem=
atic for me) the grown up in my head is noting that might be a pointless wa=
ste of money. These things need to be cut twice a year, max, I&#39;d bet...=
and I don&#39;t envision myself becoming the sort of person that schools sc=
ulpts and topiary.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Anywa=
y, thanks for the suggestion Eric. I&#39;ll see if I can get a hedge trimme=
r for that setup.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Convin=
ce me about battery life. I swore off cordless tools after going all-in on =
Milwaukee 18v kit twenty years ago and having the batteries last a few mont=
hs each. I have this whole ecosystem of useless tools because I got tired o=
f spending <span class=3D"money">$60</span>=C2=A0a pop for new packs. On sa=
le.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">How long are those l=
asting you? How frequently do you charge them? Can they sit for months and =
still hold a charge when used again or do I have to baby them?</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks,=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Wed, Oct 31, 2018, 12:11 PM  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:er=
ic@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding=
-left:1ex"><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">OK, I hate to be &#39;that =
guy&#39; but have you
looked at this...</font>
<br>
<br><a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=3Doh_aui_se=
arch_detailpage?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
><font size=3D"2" color=3D"blue" face=3D"sans-serif">https://www.amazon.com=
/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=3Doh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1=
</font></a>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">A little pricey, BUT it is an excu=
se
to buy a tool, AND you can use it for a lot of other things.=C2=A0 I have
this model and I run a firewood farm.=C2=A0 My jaw dropped the first time
I use this thing.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">It is a beast, the batteries do la=
st
long.=C2=A0 The kerf is very narrow, so I think that is why the performance
is so great.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Arguments for...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-It&#39;s way safer than a gas pow=
ered unit</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-You do not need to worry about ex=
tension
cords (if you are making this augment to an SO, also add &quot;Honey, if
I accidentally nick the wire with the chainsaw, I might get electrocuted.
=C2=A0You don&#39;t want that, do you?)*</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-Instead of being &#39;ashamed&#39=
; of the electric
saw, you get to proclaim this awesomeness</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-the batteries are compatible with=
 other
Dewalt items, SO there is possible more tool goodness to come.</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-Did I mention bragging rights?</f=
ont>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-You can even use to it trim wood =
to
use in projects, like if you make bowls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I
do use this for it.)</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-You can use it inside if you need=
 to
do demo/home repair</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-It&#39;s Dewalt, so that is cool<=
/font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Just some food for thought.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">*=3D I&#39;m a 47 year old bachelo=
r.=C2=A0 I
do not know anything about long term marriages,so this may not work.=C2=A0 =
YMMV.</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a><br>
<br>
alk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal=
@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000715d520579891437--

--===============7467264042004173511==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



--===============7467264042004173511==--

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Scott Hall'" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
 "'shop-talk@autox.team.net'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u6_tAMQw==bu3A2hS2EFNrzW+DDg-y_AGdDzOfQ0awLqQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> It's a power tool. Comparable to a chainsaw.

So, using 300ft of 16 AWG is going to limit to some extent how powerful your
tool is.  The question becomes: Are you willing to live with perhaps 20%
less power?

If you have the cord available, I'd give it a try.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk



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From: Bill Rabel <brabel@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2018 13:49:42 -0700
References: <44303009.19744090.1540986798938.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <44303009.19744090.1540986798938@mail.yahoo.com>
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Extension cord length vs. wire gauge
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1438725360918805444==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-D8B6E5D9-0F8A-4F32-BA71-DBF33A8BB16E
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	charset=utf-8
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I think that a battery-powered trimmer would not cost much more than all tha=
t cord. I have an E-Go trimmer from Home Depot, and I=E2=80=99m worn out bef=
ore it even slows down.=20



=F0=9F=8D=84 Statistically, six out of seven dwarfs are not Happy.=20

> On Oct 31, 2018, at 9:48 AM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wr=
ote:
>=20
> It's a hedge-trimmer.
>=20
> A goddamned hedge trimmer for the the goddamned hedges.
>=20
> I went and bought a house with...shrubbery. It's a nice house and I like i=
t. In a neighborhood. A nice one. With neighbors. Kinda rich ones, with yard=
 people that keep their yards looking _very_ nice.=20
>=20
> I am having more than a little difficulty with the idea that I own a house=
 with shrubs that need to be maintained. I mean, I saw them when I looked at=
 the house, butt I guess it didn't register. And as much as anything else, I=
 don't want the neighbors to think I'm bringing down their neighborhood. I a=
lready bought this as a foreclosure and they're all kind of acting like I sa=
ved that end of the street from an ogre.
>=20
> This is actually kind of a thing for me. I used to race motorcycles all we=
ekend. People that "have people" make my ass twitch a little bit. I got a gu=
y for stuff back home--they have...staff. One guy's watch cost more than my h=
ouse, I think. I'm not sure I belong here, no matter how much money I make. I=
 don't want to own any "hedges". At least not the plant kind.=20
>=20
> But I like this house, on this lot, and I'd like to be a good neighbor, an=
d they're nice folks and probably don't deserve me bringing down their prope=
rty values. And how much this is getting to me is ALSO getting to me.
>=20
> But anyway, I need a f*ck#ng hedge trimmer for these hedges and some sort o=
f cover plant that I like along the driveway. He called it honeysuckle.
>=20
> I dislike the idea of even owning a *hedge trimmer* enough that I don't wa=
nt to spend any coin on it. I'd buy the gas version and slap an expansion ch=
amber on it and get my rocks off that way, but (also problematic for me) the=
 grown up in my head is noting that might be a pointless waste of money. The=
se things need to be cut twice a year, max, I'd bet...and I don't envision m=
yself becoming the sort of person that schools sculpts and topiary.
>=20
> Anyway, thanks for the suggestion Eric. I'll see if I can get a hedge trim=
mer for that setup.
>=20
> Convince me about battery life. I swore off cordless tools after going all=
-in on Milwaukee 18v kit twenty years ago and having the batteries last a fe=
w months each. I have this whole ecosystem of useless tools because I got ti=
red of spending $60 a pop for new packs. On sale.
>=20
> How long are those lasting you? How frequently do you charge them? Can the=
y sit for months and still hold a charge when used again or do I have to bab=
y them?
>=20
> Thanks,=20
>=20
> Scott
>=20
>> On Wed, Oct 31, 2018, 12:11 PM <eric@megageek.com wrote:
>> OK, I hate to be 'that guy' but have you looked at this...=20
>>=20
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=3Doh_aui_search_detailpa=
ge?ie=3DUTF8&psc=3D1=20
>>=20
>> A little pricey, BUT it is an excuse to buy a tool, AND you can use it fo=
r a lot of other things.  I have this model and I run a firewood farm.  My j=
aw dropped the first time I use this thing.=20
>>=20
>> It is a beast, the batteries do last long.  The kerf is very narrow, so I=
 think that is why the performance is so great.=20
>>=20
>> Arguments for...=20
>>=20
>> -It's way safer than a gas powered unit=20
>> -You do not need to worry about extension cords (if you are making this a=
ugment to an SO, also add "Honey, if I accidentally nick the wire with the c=
hainsaw, I might get electrocuted.  You don't want that, do you?)*=20
>> -Instead of being 'ashamed' of the electric saw, you get to proclaim this=
 awesomeness=20
>> -the batteries are compatible with other Dewalt items, SO there is possib=
le more tool goodness to come.=20
>> -Did I mention bragging rights?=20
>> -You can even use to it trim wood to use in projects, like if you make bo=
wls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I do use this for it.)=20
>> -You can use it inside if you need to do demo/home repair=20
>> -It's Dewalt, so that is cool=20
>>=20
>> Just some food for thought.=20
>>=20
>> *=3D I'm a 47 year old bachelor.  I do not know anything about long term m=
arriages,so this may not work.  YMMV.=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
>> Tech Viper
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational=
 being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Wald=
o Emerson _______________________________________________
>>=20
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott=
.hall.personal@gmail.com
>>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">I think that a battery-powered trimmer woul=
d not cost much more than all that cord. I have an E-Go trimmer from Home De=
pot, and I=E2=80=99m worn out before it even slows down.&nbsp;<br><br><div i=
d=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr"><div><br></div><div><br></div>=F0=9F=8D=
=84 Statistically, six out of seven dwarfs are not Happy.&nbsp;</div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><br>On Oct 31, 2018, at 9:48 AM, Scott Hall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
scott.hall.personal@gmail.com">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<=
br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"auto">It=
's a hedge-trimmer.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">A goddamned=
 hedge trimmer for the the goddamned hedges.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">I went and bought a house with...shrubbery. It's a nice h=
ouse and I like it. In a neighborhood. A nice one. With neighbors. Kinda ric=
h ones, with yard people that keep their yards looking _very_ nice.&nbsp;</d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I am having more than a lit=
tle difficulty with the idea that I own a house with shrubs that need to be m=
aintained. I mean, I saw them when I looked at the house, butt I guess it di=
dn't register. And as much as anything else, I don't want the neighbors to t=
hink I'm bringing down their neighborhood. I already bought this as a forecl=
osure and they're all kind of acting like I saved that end of the street fro=
m an ogre.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">This is actual=
ly kind of a thing for me. I used to race motorcycles all weekend. People th=
at "have people" make my ass twitch a little bit. I got a guy for stuff back=
 home--they have...staff. One guy's watch cost more than my house, I think. I=
'm not sure I belong here, no matter how much money I make. I don't want to o=
wn any "hedges". At least not the plant kind.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">But I like this house, on this lot, and I'd like t=
o be a good neighbor, and they're nice folks and probably don't deserve me b=
ringing down their property values. And how much this is getting to me is AL=
SO getting to me.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">But any=
way, I need a f*ck#ng hedge trimmer for these hedges and some sort of cover p=
lant that I like along the driveway. He called it honeysuckle.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I dislike the idea of even owning a *h=
edge trimmer* enough that I don't want to spend any coin on it. I'd buy the g=
as version and slap an expansion chamber on it and get my rocks off that way=
, but (also problematic for me) the grown up in my head is noting that might=
 be a pointless waste of money. These things need to be cut twice a year, ma=
x, I'd bet...and I don't envision myself becoming the sort of person that sc=
hools sculpts and topiary.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto=
">Anyway, thanks for the suggestion Eric. I'll see if I can get a hedge trim=
mer for that setup.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Convi=
nce me about battery life. I swore off cordless tools after going all-in on M=
ilwaukee 18v kit twenty years ago and having the batteries last a few months=
 each. I have this whole ecosystem of useless tools because I got tired of s=
pending <span class=3D"money">$60</span>&nbsp;a pop for new packs. On sale.<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">How long are those lastin=
g you? How frequently do you charge them? Can they sit for months and still h=
old a charge when used again or do I have to baby them?</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks,&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">Scott</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">On Wed, Oct 31, 2018, 12:11 PM  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek=
.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote=
" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><f=
ont size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">OK, I hate to be 'that guy' but have you
looked at this...</font>
<br>
<br><a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=3Doh_aui_sea=
rch_detailpage?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer"><=
font size=3D"2" color=3D"blue" face=3D"sans-serif">https://www.amazon.com/gp=
/product/B01NBVCQ4W/ref=3Doh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1</fo=
nt></a>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">A little pricey, BUT it is an excus=
e
to buy a tool, AND you can use it for a lot of other things.&nbsp; I have
this model and I run a firewood farm.&nbsp; My jaw dropped the first time
I use this thing.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">It is a beast, the batteries do las=
t
long.&nbsp; The kerf is very narrow, so I think that is why the performance
is so great.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Arguments for...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-It's way safer than a gas powered u=
nit</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-You do not need to worry about ext=
ension
cords (if you are making this augment to an SO, also add "Honey, if
I accidentally nick the wire with the chainsaw, I might get electrocuted.
&nbsp;You don't want that, do you?)*</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-Instead of being 'ashamed' of the e=
lectric
saw, you get to proclaim this awesomeness</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-the batteries are compatible with o=
ther
Dewalt items, SO there is possible more tool goodness to come.</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-Did I mention bragging rights?</fo=
nt>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-You can even use to it trim wood t=
o
use in projects, like if you make bowls, carvings or pens on a lathe (I
do use this for it.)</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-You can use it inside if you need t=
o
do demo/home repair</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">-It's Dewalt, so that is cool</font=
>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Just some food for thought.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">*=3D I'm a 47 year old bachelor.&nb=
sp; I
do not know anything about long term marriages,so this may not work.&nbsp; Y=
MMV.</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Tech Viper<br>
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefer=
rer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"noreferr=
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lk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_b=
lank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gm=
ail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a h=
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tml>=

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