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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2016 19:13:53 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Well tank losing air pressure
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I have an Amtrol WX-203 (installed Sep 2009) and I need to add air more and more often otherwise the pump short cycles like crazy. There's no water spitting from the air valve and no air coming out of the faucets. Is it still a shot tank? I soaped the air valve and don't see any bubbles. Can't think where the air might be going. The tank isn't rusty except for the round frame part at the bottom. 

Easy to replace and it'll probably cure it, but I'd really like to know for sure. Google wasn't much help, surprisingly. 

thanks,
jim
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <F424F641-36E3-4158-ABC9-574DEEA4C273@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2016 21:47:14 -0700
Thread-Index: AdIHLhBEUKA+IC2fRje8D3/xHa92CAAAjG4g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Well tank losing air pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have an Amtrol WX-203 (installed Sep 2009) and I need to add air more
> and more often otherwise the pump short cycles like crazy. There's no
> water spitting from the air valve and no air coming out of the faucets. 

Same thing happens with a tank that doesn't have a diaphragm.  The air
slowly dissolves into the water, so you don't see any bubbles, but the air
cushion goes away.

(So yes, I think you've got a bad diaphragm/bladder in the tank.)

-- Randall

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  5 17:56:25 2016
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2016 10:08:59 -0400
References: <F424F641-36E3-4158-ABC9-574DEEA4C273@groupwbench.org>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Well tank losing air pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not long after posting this I finally found a video where some glorious soul had taken one apart. My vision of the bladder holding the air was incorrect; the bladder holds the water, and the air is inside the tank. I then picked at a suspicious paint bubble and soaped it, and that's where I'm losing the air, pinhole leak.

Here's the video if you'd like to see the innards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ybMRYrt8U

jim

On Sep 4, 2016, at 7:13 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> I have an Amtrol WX-203 (installed Sep 2009) and I need to add air more and more often otherwise the pump short cycles like crazy. There's no water spitting from the air valve and no air coming out of the faucets. Is it still a shot tank? I soaped the air valve and don't see any bubbles. Can't think where the air might be going. The tank isn't rusty except for the round frame part at the bottom. 
> 
> Easy to replace and it'll probably cure it, but I'd really like to know for sure. Google wasn't much help, surprisingly. 
> 
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> 

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2016 16:02:13 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] cleaning my parts washer cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_02F3_01D2078E.DDE72830"

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I=E2=80=99ve got a table top parts washer...(old commercial unit I found =
at a divorce sale)  metal sink and top over a polyethylene tank (about 5 =
gallons)  I use super agitene solvent and after 5 years it=E2=80=99s =
still doing the job.   But... where it used to be nice and clear, =
it=E2=80=99s getting grundgy now and I=E2=80=99m sure the tank has a =
nice thick layer of crud on bottom.   It=E2=80=99s starting to run a =
little slow and I was going to clean everything out and see if that =
helps.

question... what=E2=80=99s the best =E2=80=98strainer=E2=80=99 material =
to pour the solvent through ??  paint strainer?  old tee shirt...??  I =
can do this two or three times while I=E2=80=99m scrapping the tank =
clean...

john
------=_NextPart_000_02F3_01D2078E.DDE72830
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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I=E2=80=99ve got a table top parts washer...(old commercial unit I =
found at a=20
divorce sale)&nbsp; metal sink and top over a polyethylene tank (about 5 =

gallons)&nbsp; I use super agitene solvent and after 5 years =
it=E2=80=99s still doing=20
the job.&nbsp;&nbsp; But... where it used to be nice and clear, =
it=E2=80=99s getting=20
grundgy now and I=E2=80=99m sure the tank has a nice thick layer of crud =
on=20
bottom.&nbsp;&nbsp; It=E2=80=99s starting to run a little slow and I was =
going to clean=20
everything out and see if that helps.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>question... what=E2=80=99s the best =E2=80=98strainer=E2=80=99 =
material to pour the solvent through=20
??&nbsp; paint strainer?&nbsp; old tee shirt...??&nbsp; I can do this =
two or=20
three times while I=E2=80=99m scrapping the tank clean...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5418700306890417892==--

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To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <D74A30CD394744C5BF0D8ADA6BAE8F33@UserPC>
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2016 06:51:11 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cleaning my parts washer cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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--------------AE802AB8FA2ED2962BC6D407
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I use these filters from Northern tool with good results. 
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024 John 
Mitchell  Shelton, CT


On 9/5/2016 5:02 PM, john niolon wrote:
> I’ve got a table top parts washer...(old commercial unit I found at a 
> divorce sale)  metal sink and top over a polyethylene tank (about 5 
> gallons)  I use super agitene solvent and after 5 years it’s still 
> doing the job.   But... where it used to be nice and clear, it’s 
> getting grundgy now and I’m sure the tank has a nice thick layer of 
> crud on bottom.   It’s starting to run a little slow and I was going 
> to clean everything out and see if that helps.
> question... what’s the best ‘strainer’ material to pour the solvent 
> through ??  paint strainer?  old tee shirt...?? I can do this two or 
> three times while I’m scrapping the tank clean...
> john
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch@snet.net
>


--------------AE802AB8FA2ED2962BC6D407
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <p>I use these filters from Northern tool with good results. 
      <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024">http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024</a>     
      John Mitchell  Shelton, CT<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/5/2016 5:02 PM, john niolon wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:D74A30CD394744C5BF0D8ADA6BAE8F33@UserPC"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR:
          #000000">
          <div>I’ve got a table top parts washer...(old commercial unit
            I found at a divorce sale)  metal sink and top over a
            polyethylene tank (about 5 gallons)  I use super agitene
            solvent and after 5 years it’s still doing the job.   But...
            where it used to be nice and clear, it’s getting grundgy now
            and I’m sure the tank has a nice thick layer of crud on
            bottom.   It’s starting to run a little slow and I was going
            to clean everything out and see if that helps.</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>question... what’s the best ‘strainer’ material to pour
            the solvent through ??  paint strainer?  old tee shirt...?? 
            I can do this two or three times while I’m scrapping the
            tank clean...</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>john</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2016 14:38:25 -0400
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <D74A30CD394744C5BF0D8ADA6BAE8F33@UserPC>
 <33351efe-dfc2-e027-2821-79cb59db23a5@snet.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cleaning my parts washer cleaner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4152199447916383425==
	boundary="=====================_155855123==.ALT"

--=====================_155855123==.ALT

Fifty bucks seems like a lot for that.  It says in the description 
"(2) filter bag."   I'm not sure if that means the send you two whole 
assemblies or an extra bag or that it contains two levels of 
filtration.  It also says it is 27lbs.  That is one pretty hefty 
filter!  John, what do you do when it gets dirty?  Is this cleanable 
and reusable or do you have to buy another one each time?

All I have ever done with mine is put it in five gallon pails and let 
it settle out.  I pour the top into the parts washer and then discard 
the very last bit.  I don't throw away very much.  Agitene is great, 
but it is expensive!

Maybe I am missing the whole point of a parts washer, but I also try 
not to put stuff in there that is too filthy.  If I can I do a little 
pre-cleaning with a scraper or garden hose depending on what the item 
is.  If I was in a commercial shop where the Safety-Kleen guy comes 
by on a regular schedule to swap out the solvent, it would be different.

-Steve

At 06:51 AM 9/6/2016, john Mitchell wrote:

>I use these filters from Northern tool with good 
>results. 
><http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024>http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024 
>John Mitchell  Shelton, CT
>
>On 9/5/2016 5:02 PM, john niolon wrote:
>>I've got a table top parts washer...(old commercial unit I found at 
>>a divorce sale)  metal sink and top over a polyethylene tank (about 
>>5 gallons)  I use super agitene solvent and after 5 years it's 
>>still doing the job.   But... where it used to be nice and clear, 
>>it's getting grundgy now and I'm sure the tank has a nice thick 
>>layer of crud on bottom.   It's starting to run a little slow and I 
>>was going to clean everything out and see if that helps.
>>
>>question... what's the best 'strainer' material to pour the solvent 
>>through ??  paint strainer?  old tee shirt...??  I can do this two 
>>or three times while I'm scrapping the tank clean...
>>
>>john

--=====================_155855123==.ALT

<html>
<body>
Fifty bucks seems like a lot for that.&nbsp; It says in the description
&quot;(2) filter bag.&quot;&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm not sure if that means the
send you two whole assemblies or an extra bag or that it contains two
levels of filtration.&nbsp; It also says it is 27lbs.&nbsp; That is one
pretty hefty filter!&nbsp; John, what do you do when it gets dirty?&nbsp;
Is this cleanable and reusable or do you have to buy another one each
time? <br><br>
All I have ever done with mine is put it in five gallon pails and let it
settle out.&nbsp; I pour the top into the parts washer and then discard
the very last bit.&nbsp; I don't throw away very much.&nbsp; Agitene is
great, but it is expensive!&nbsp; <br><br>
Maybe I am missing the whole point of a parts washer, but I also try not
to put stuff in there that is too filthy.&nbsp; If I can I do a little
pre-cleaning with a scraper or garden hose depending on what the item
is.&nbsp; If I was in a commercial shop where the Safety-Kleen guy comes
by on a regular schedule to swap out the solvent, it would be
different.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 06:51 AM 9/6/2016, john Mitchell wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I use these filters from
Northern tool with good results.&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024">
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200141024_200141024</a>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; John Mitchell&nbsp; Shelton, CT<br><br>
On 9/5/2016 5:02 PM, john niolon wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I’ve got a table top parts
washer...(old commercial unit I found at a divorce sale)&nbsp; metal sink
and top over a polyethylene tank (about 5 gallons)&nbsp; I use super
agitene solvent and after 5 years it’s still doing the job.&nbsp;&nbsp;
But... where it used to be nice and clear, it’s getting grundgy now and
I’m sure the tank has a nice thick layer of crud on bottom.&nbsp;&nbsp;
It’s starting to run a little slow and I was going to clean everything
out and see if that helps.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
question... what’s the best ‘strainer’ material to pour the solvent
through ??&nbsp; paint strainer?&nbsp; old tee shirt...??&nbsp; I can do
this two or three times while I’m scrapping the tank clean...<br>
&nbsp;<br>
john<br>
</blockquote></blockquote></body>
</html>

--=====================_155855123==.ALT--


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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4152199447916383425==--

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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Adding timer to appliances/dehumidifier
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 FILETIME=[B2B01390:01D209DA]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Adding timer to appliances/dehumidifier
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1007496004304448419==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0BN3PR15MB0739namp_"

--_000_BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0BN3PR15MB0739namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Curious if there is a way to add a timer on an appliance like a dehumidifie=
r. I really don't need the dehumidifier to run all day long like it current=
ly does, and trying to save a few bucks and have it run overnight or a few =
times a day.


The dehumidifier doesn't have this feature, and has a power on/off button t=
hat must be pressed to turn it back on if power is cut or it's turned off. =
So I can't just put it on a regular timer like a light switch. I could setu=
p the timer to cut power, but when it calls for power again, it would not t=
urn on.


Perhaps opening it up and bypassing the power switch would work, though I'm=
 wondering if dehumidifiers need a "soft start" type of power switch in ord=
er to prevent any damage if powered on suddenly. It's also under an extende=
d warranty so I'm hesitant to "mod" it and void the warranty.



Thanks

--_000_BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0BN3PR15MB0739namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Curious if there is a way to add a timer on an appliance like a dehumidi=
fier. <span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, &q=
uot;Apple Color Emoji&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI Emoji&quot;, NotoColorEmoji, &q=
uot;Segoe UI Symbol&quot;, &quot;Android Emoji&quot;, EmojiSymbols; font-si=
ze: 16px;">
I really don't need the dehumidifier to run all day long like it currently =
does, and trying to save a few bucks and have it run overnight or a few tim=
es a day.</span></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>The dehumidifier doesn't have this feature, and has a power on/off butto=
n that must be pressed to turn it back on if power is cut or it's turned of=
f.&nbsp;<span style=3D"font-size: 12pt;">So I can't just put it on a regula=
r timer like a light switch. I could setup
 the timer to cut power, but when it calls for power again, it would not tu=
rn on.</span></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Perhaps opening it up and bypassing the power switch would work, though =
I'm wondering if dehumidifiers need a &quot;soft start&quot; type of power =
switch in order to prevent any damage if powered on suddenly. It's also und=
er an extended warranty so I'm hesitant to
 &quot;mod&quot; it and void the warranty.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0BN3PR15MB0739namp_--

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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2016 11:30:21 -0500
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Adding timer to appliances/dehumidifier
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5415687418429430475==
 boundary=Apple-Mail-D224993B-7AE9-44B6-9319-8157F6701F7F
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	charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Have you tried unplugging it, hold the power button in, then plug it in? If i=
t starts and holding the button down while it is running doesn't cause any p=
roblems, just find a way to hold the button down all the time & use a lamp t=
imer =20

Or you could rig a solenoid to push the button.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


> On Sep 8, 2016, at 9:09 AM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> Thanks
>=20
> ________________________________

--Apple-Mail-D224993B-7AE9-44B6-9319-8157F6701F7F
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Have you tried unplugging it, hold the=
 power button in, then plug it in? If it starts and holding the button down w=
hile it is running doesn't cause any problems, just find a way to hold the b=
utton down all the time &amp; use a lamp timer &nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleM=
ailSignature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Or you could rig a so=
lenoid to push the button.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br></d=
iv><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Peace,</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"=
>Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Human=
ity</div><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Sep 8, 2016, at 9:09 AM, PJ McGarv=
ey &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com">pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div id=3D"divtagdefault=
wrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;background-color:#FFFFFF;font=
-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><p>Thanks</p>
</div>


<span>________________________________</span></blockquote></body></html>=

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To: "'PJ McGarvey'" <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>,
 "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0@BN3PR15MB0739.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2016 10:17:37 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHSCdqtNmME2tJ8A0+7cybDZt9HgaBv1R0A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Adding timer to appliances/dehumidifier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Perhaps opening it up and bypassing the power switch would work, though
> I'm wondering if dehumidifiers need a "soft start" type of power switch in
> order to prevent any damage if powered on suddenly. It's also under an
> extended warranty so I'm hesitant to "mod" it and void the warranty.

Just a WAG, but I'm guessing the power button is just a momentary switch
that provides input to some sort of microcontroller.  The microcontroller
would handle any necessary conditions, like not restarting too soon after
the compressor has been running.

Check your owner's manual, there may be some way to program it to
automatically restart after a power failure (ie an external timer comes on).
Otherwise, I think you are stuck opening up the unit to parallel something
across the power button.

Randall


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2016 19:21:17 -0500
References: <BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0@BN3PR15MB0739.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Adding timer to appliances/dehumidifier
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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> On Sep 8, 2016, at 09:09, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> Curious if there is a way to add a timer on an appliance like a dehumidifi=
er. I really don't need the dehumidifier to run all day long like it current=
ly does, and trying to save a few bucks and have it run overnight or a few t=
imes a day
>=20

Buy a new one.  Modern, efficient, dehumidifiers do this automatically. Set a=
 humidity , then they run until it's reached. After that, they come on brief=
ly to run the fan and test the humidity level. Too high, they turn on the co=
mpressor; low, they shut off until the next check time.=20=

--Apple-Mail-D6D35431-56FD-4DC5-8903-352B1A1F85F3
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div></div><div><br></div><div><br>On Sep 8, 2016, at 09:09, PJ McGarvey &lt;<a href="mailto:pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com">pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">



<div id="divtagdefaultwrapper" style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;background-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Curious if there is a way to add a timer on an appliance like a dehumidifier. <span style="font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, &quot;Apple Color Emoji&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI Emoji&quot;, NotoColorEmoji, &quot;Segoe UI Symbol&quot;, &quot;Android Emoji&quot;, EmojiSymbols; font-size: 16px;">
I really don't need the dehumidifier to run all day long like it currently does, and trying to save a few bucks and have it run overnight or a few times a day</span></p></div></div></blockquote><br><div>Buy a new one. &nbsp;Modern, efficient, dehumidifiers do this automatically. Set a humidity , then they run until it's reached. After that, they come on briefly to run the fan and test the humidity level. Too high, they turn on the compressor; low, they shut off until the next check time.&nbsp;</div></body></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4465382759583328408==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  9 00:25:19 2016
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To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0@BN3PR15MB0739.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2016 19:31:33 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Adding timer to appliances/dehumidifier
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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My dehumidifiers had a humidity control knob.  I would expect you could 
just adjust that knob to the point where the only came on a few times a 
day.  You might have to change it seasonally, but this adjustment means 
you don't have to open the case.

Brian

On 9/8/2016 7:09 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
>
> Curious if there is a way to add a timer on an appliance like a 
> dehumidifier. I really don't need the dehumidifier to run all day long 
> like it currently does, and trying to save a few bucks and have it run 
> overnight or a few times a day.
>
>
> The dehumidifier doesn't have this feature, and has a power on/off 
> button that must be pressed to turn it back on if power is cut or it's 
> turned off. So I can't just put it on a regular timer like a light 
> switch. I could setup the timer to cut power, but when it calls for 
> power again, it would not turn on.
>
>
> Perhaps opening it up and bypassing the power switch would work, 
> though I'm wondering if dehumidifiers need a "soft start" type of 
> power switch in order to prevent any damage if powered on suddenly. 
> It's also under an extended warranty so I'm hesitant to "mod" it and 
> void the warranty.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>


--------------24182A5851FBD3EA6E14A4AD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    My dehumidifiers had a humidity control knob.  I would expect you
    could just adjust that knob to the point where the only came on a
    few times a day.  You might have to change it seasonally, but this
    adjustment means you don't have to open the case.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/8/2016 7:09 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:BN3PR15MB07394C27440EF50137EDCF1B9AFB0@BN3PR15MB0739.namprd15.prod.outlook.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} --></style>
      <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper"
style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;background-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
        <p>Curious if there is a way to add a timer on an appliance like
          a dehumidifier. <span style="font-family: Calibri, Arial,
            Helvetica, sans-serif, &quot;Apple Color Emoji&quot;,
            &quot;Segoe UI Emoji&quot;, NotoColorEmoji, &quot;Segoe UI
            Symbol&quot;, &quot;Android Emoji&quot;, EmojiSymbols;
            font-size: 16px;">
            I really don't need the dehumidifier to run all day long
            like it currently does, and trying to save a few bucks and
            have it run overnight or a few times a day.</span></p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>The dehumidifier doesn't have this feature, and has a power
          on/off button that must be pressed to turn it back on if power
          is cut or it's turned off. <span style="font-size: 12pt;">So I
            can't just put it on a regular timer like a light switch. I
            could setup the timer to cut power, but when it calls for
            power again, it would not turn on.</span></p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>Perhaps opening it up and bypassing the power switch would
          work, though I'm wondering if dehumidifiers need a "soft
          start" type of power switch in order to prevent any damage if
          powered on suddenly. It's also under an extended warranty so
          I'm hesitant to "mod" it and void the warranty.</p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>Thanks</p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 13 02:42:50 2016
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 id jflebImSWmG7Mjflfbpyr3; Mon, 12 Sep 2016 21:56:23 -0700
From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 21:56:25 -0700
Importance: Normal
 WzPI+QxryJNjWLHYS5WFdX3jY3RC0SJJk+1LVDunEZXmVjddrrxuD5Mt
Subject: [Shop-talk] Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============7374110600265253405==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000E_01D20D40.81B3FBD0"

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------=_NextPart_000_000E_01D20D40.81B3FBD0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I=E2=80=99m familiar with a Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch=20
and maybe you are also.  It is normally fitted between=20
a battery terminal and the outgoing cable.  It typically=20
is fitted with a round green plastic knob that is unscrewed=20
or screwed down to to disconnect or connect the battery=20
to the electrical system.

Here is my question....we own a JDM (Japanese Domestic=20
Market) automobile and it is fitted with a smaller automotive=20
battery that has significantly smaller diameter battery posts.
The cable end fittings match the smaller posts.

I=E2=80=99m trying to locate a source for the Battery Terminal =
Disconnect=20
Switch with the green plastic knob that fits the smaller diameter=20
posts.  Anyone have an idea?
Super thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
------=_NextPart_000_000E_01D20D40.81B3FBD0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I=E2=80=99m familiar with a Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch =
</DIV>
<DIV>and maybe you are also.&nbsp; It is normally fitted between </DIV>
<DIV>a battery terminal and the outgoing cable.&nbsp; It typically =
</DIV>
<DIV>is fitted with a round green plastic knob that is unscrewed </DIV>
<DIV>or screwed down to to disconnect or connect the battery </DIV>
<DIV>to the electrical system.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Here is my question....we own a JDM (Japanese Domestic </DIV>
<DIV>Market) automobile and it is fitted with a smaller automotive =
</DIV>
<DIV>battery that has significantly smaller diameter battery =
posts.</DIV>
<DIV>The cable end fittings match the smaller posts.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I=E2=80=99m trying to locate a source for the Battery Terminal =
Disconnect </DIV>
<DIV>Switch with the green plastic knob that fits the smaller diameter =
</DIV>
<DIV>posts.&nbsp; Anyone have an idea?</DIV>
<DIV>Super thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA USA</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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--===============7374110600265253405==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============7374110600265253405==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 13 03:11:17 2016
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2016 22:03:16 -0700
Importance: Normal
 zgdZA0XFftEsBqyW6VQr9C8Y4JDECHtBXI+PMI6T4kguPAQK+yibFaPq
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch (Ooops)
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--===============0765196824946652794==
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Ooops, just found a source!
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA=20
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:56 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch

I=E2=80=99m familiar with a Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch=20
and maybe you are also.  It is normally fitted between=20
a battery terminal and the outgoing cable.  It typically=20
is fitted with a round green plastic knob that is unscrewed=20
or screwed down to to disconnect or connect the battery=20
to the electrical system.

Here is my question....we own a JDM (Japanese Domestic=20
Market) automobile and it is fitted with a smaller automotive=20
battery that has significantly smaller diameter battery posts.
The cable end fittings match the smaller posts.

I=E2=80=99m trying to locate a source for the Battery Terminal =
Disconnect=20
Switch with the green plastic knob that fits the smaller diameter=20
posts.  Anyone have an idea?
Super thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01D20D41.7699EC40
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Ooops, just found a source!</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA USA</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dgsteve@hammatt.com=20
href=3D"mailto:gsteve@hammatt.com">Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA =
USA</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, September 12, 2016 9:56 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3DShop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Car Battery Terminal Disconnect =
Switch</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I=E2=80=99m familiar with a Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch =
</DIV>
<DIV>and maybe you are also.&nbsp; It is normally fitted between </DIV>
<DIV>a battery terminal and the outgoing cable.&nbsp; It typically =
</DIV>
<DIV>is fitted with a round green plastic knob that is unscrewed </DIV>
<DIV>or screwed down to to disconnect or connect the battery </DIV>
<DIV>to the electrical system.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Here is my question....we own a JDM (Japanese Domestic </DIV>
<DIV>Market) automobile and it is fitted with a smaller automotive =
</DIV>
<DIV>battery that has significantly smaller diameter battery =
posts.</DIV>
<DIV>The cable end fittings match the smaller posts.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I=E2=80=99m trying to locate a source for the Battery Terminal =
Disconnect </DIV>
<DIV>Switch with the green plastic knob that fits the smaller diameter =
</DIV>
<DIV>posts.&nbsp; Anyone have an idea?</DIV>
<DIV>Super thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA =
USA</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 13 10:49:30 2016
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Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 10:36:23 -0400
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>,
 Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <40E8099E8665401FB88F3C78538E6ABD@StevePC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch (Ooops)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

My first thought was to look at suppliers in Japan.  Glad you found 
what you need.  Care to share your source with the rest of us, for 
future reference?

-Steve

At 01:03 AM 9/13/2016, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
>Ooops, just found a source!
>Thanks.
>
>Steve Hammatt
>Mount Vernon WA USA

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 13 12:02:27 2016
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Steven Trovato" <strovato@optonline.net>,
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <40E8099E8665401FB88F3C78538E6ABD@StevePC>
 <37.62.12497.8D018D75@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 08:29:30 -0700
Importance: Normal
 33bLJ2ko63RUyYVbrOoheCJ2rMrECJutTCkyQ8XxTh3DwuBdImUj5VSYQ41146VORMzJVf45fEXoAIDyAXfKKN8cRPiFv79gHew=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch (Ooops)
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============1489460400960720789==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005B_01D20D98.F2B4A200"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_005B_01D20D98.F2B4A200
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I got into eBay Japan and found a common =E2=80=9CJIS Battery =
Switch=E2=80=9D=20
>From past experience I know that shipping small packet item from=20
Japan (or China) can be very inexpensive.  So I may try one direct from=20
Japan, although I=E2=80=99m not sure of the quality.  I=E2=80=99d like =
to find a brass=20
switch, not a =E2=80=9Cpot metal=E2=80=9D painted to look like brass.
This will be going on my wife=E2=80=99s 1989 Nissan S-Cargo.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steven Trovato=20
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 7:36 AM
To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA ; Shop-talk@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch =
(Ooops)

Steve,

My first thought was to look at suppliers in Japan.  Glad you found=20
what you need.  Care to share your source with the rest of us, for=20
future reference?

-Steve

At 01:03 AM 9/13/2016, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
>Ooops, just found a source!
>Thanks.
>
>Steve Hammatt
>Mount Vernon WA USA




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4649/13009 - Release Date: =
09/13/16

------=_NextPart_000_005B_01D20D98.F2B4A200
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I got into eBay Japan and found a common =E2=80=9CJIS Battery =
Switch=E2=80=9D </DIV>
<DIV>From past experience I know that shipping small packet item from =
</DIV>
<DIV>Japan (or China) can be very inexpensive.&nbsp; So I may try one =
direct=20
from </DIV>
<DIV>Japan, although I=E2=80=99m not sure of the quality.&nbsp; =
I=E2=80=99d like to find a brass=20
</DIV>
<DIV>switch, not a =E2=80=9Cpot metal=E2=80=9D painted to look like =
brass.</DIV>
<DIV>This will be going on my wife=E2=80=99s 1989 Nissan S-Cargo.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA USA</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dstrovato@optonline.net=20
href=3D"mailto:strovato@optonline.net">Steven Trovato</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 13, 2016 7:36 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dgsteve@hammatt.com=20
href=3D"mailto:gsteve@hammatt.com">Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA =
USA</A> ; <A=20
title=3DShop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Car Battery Terminal Disconnect =
Switch=20
(Ooops)</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>Steve,<BR><BR>My=20
first thought was to look at suppliers in Japan.&nbsp; Glad you found =
<BR>what=20
you need.&nbsp; Care to share your source with the rest of us, for =
<BR>future=20
reference?<BR><BR>-Steve<BR><BR>At 01:03 AM 9/13/2016, Steve Hammatt, =
Mount=20
Vernon WA USA wrote:<BR>&gt;Ooops, just found a=20
source!<BR>&gt;Thanks.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;Steve Hammatt<BR>&gt;Mount Vernon =
WA=20
USA<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>-----<BR>No virus found in this =
message.<BR>Checked by=20
AVG - www.avg.com<BR>Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4649/13009 - =
Release=20
Date: 09/13/16<BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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--===============1489460400960720789==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1489460400960720789==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 13 17:20:39 2016
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <40E8099E8665401FB88F3C78538E6ABD@StevePC>
 <37.62.12497.8D018D75@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
 <1B1E7208E65246E88DFFC72411C8DA84@StevePC>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 11:12:11 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Car Battery Terminal Disconnect Switch (Ooops)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Someone had a very sick sense of humor with both the design and the name....
On 9/13/2016 8:29 AM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Nissan S-Cargo


---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 13 23:31:26 2016
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 20:31:27 -0400
 2013) at 09/13/2016 08:32:23 PM,
 Serialize complete at 09/13/2016 08:32:23 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============2625689869613431157==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0002EB118525802E_=

While I was in DC last week, someone tried to make an illegal turn into 
me.  My truck was fine, except his rear view mirror scrapped down the side 
of my truck.

So, how do I buff out plastic?  It didn't scratch the paint as it is proud 
of the paint.

I didn't want to just compound it and then scratch it up.

Any ideas?

TIA.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0002EB118525802E_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">While I was in DC last week, someone tried
to make an illegal turn into me. &nbsp;My truck was fine, except his rear
view mirror scrapped down the side of my truck.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, how do I buff out plastic? &nbsp;It
didn't scratch the paint as it is proud of the paint.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I didn't want to just compound it and
then scratch it up.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Any ideas?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">TIA.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 0002EB118525802E_=--

--===============2625689869613431157==
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 14 09:21:53 2016
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From: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>,
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OFC59D290F.3D812538-ON8525802E.0001DD89-8525802E.0002EB13@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2016 08:45:26 -0400
Thread-Index: AQGH5f8swnXhtSIQDv6Lb+ar3IuLCqENPm0w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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A clay bar & lubricant may work.  

 

"a clay bar will remove embedded surface contamination that still remains
after a maintenance wash. Sometimes the contamination removed is not always
visible on the paint to the naked eye."

 

Doug Armstrong

 

 

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
eric@megageek.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:31 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits

 

While I was in DC last week, someone tried to make an illegal turn into me.
My truck was fine, except his rear view mirror scrapped down the side of my
truck. 

So, how do I buff out plastic?  It didn't scratch the paint as it is proud
of the paint. 

I didn't want to just compound it and then scratch it up. 

Any ideas? 

TIA. 


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson 

  _____  


 
<https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=0aRHhGi6o&m=0d8f9b015d74&
t=20160914&c=s> Spam
 
<https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=0aRHhGi6o&m=0d8f9b015d74&
t=20160914&c=p> Phish/Fraud
 
<https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=0aRHhGi6o&m=0d8f9b015d74&
t=20160914&c=n> Not spam
 
<https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=0aRHhGi6o&m=0d8f9b015d74&
t=20160914&c=f> Forget previous vote


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charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 =
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>A clay bar =
&amp; lubricant may work.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&#8220;a =
clay bar will remove embedded surface contamination that still remains =
after a maintenance wash. Sometimes the contamination removed is not =
always visible on the paint to the naked =
eye.&#8221;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Doug =
Armstrong<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>eric@megageek.com<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:31 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] =
Buffing out plastic mirror bits<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>While I was in =
DC last week, someone tried to make an illegal turn into me. &nbsp;My =
truck was fine, except his rear view mirror scrapped down the side of my =
truck.</span> <br><br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>So, how do I =
buff out plastic? &nbsp;It didn't scratch the paint as it is proud of =
the paint.</span> <br><br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I didn't want =
to just compound it and then scratch it up.</span> <br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><br>Any =
ideas?</span> <br><br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>TIA.</span> =
<br><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><br><br>Sent =
from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>Eric P<br>&quot;Be as =
beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being =
are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph =
Waldo Emerson </span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><div class=3DMsoNormal =
align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;color:black;background:white'><hr size=3D2 =
width=3D"100%" align=3Dcenter></span></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;color:black;background:white'><br></span><a =
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;m=3D0d8f9b015d74&amp;t=3D20160914&amp;c=3Ds" =
target=3D"canit_note"><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;background:white'>Spam</span></a><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;color:black;background:white'><br></span><a =
href=3D"https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=3D0aRHhGi6o&amp=
;m=3D0d8f9b015d74&amp;t=3D20160914&amp;c=3Dp" =
target=3D"canit_note"><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;background:white'>Phish/Fraud</span></a><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;color:black;background:white'><br></span><a =
href=3D"https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=3D0aRHhGi6o&amp=
;m=3D0d8f9b015d74&amp;t=3D20160914&amp;c=3Dn" =
target=3D"canit_note"><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;background:white'>Not spam</span></a><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;color:black;background:white'><br></span><a =
href=3D"https://antispam.roaringpenguin.com/canit/b.php?i=3D0aRHhGi6o&amp=
;m=3D0d8f9b015d74&amp;t=3D20160914&amp;c=3Df" =
target=3D"canit_note"><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;background:white'>Forget previous =
vote</span></a><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 14 09:50:07 2016
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Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2016 09:41:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: ejrussell@mebtel.net
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> So, how do I buff out plastic? 

This might be a good time to pay a detail shop for their expertise. 

Eric Russell
Mebane NC
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
Thread-Index: AQHSDkpZtKsIeGB+9EecRLmh13Q82KB4/skAgAAo7Q0=
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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"This might be a good time to pay a detail shop for their expertise.".....e=
specially if the other person's insurance is paying for it.



________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of ejrussell@m=
ebtel.net <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2016 8:41 AM
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits

> So, how do I buff out plastic?

This might be a good time to pay a detail shop for their expertise.

Eric Russell
Mebane NC
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
www.team.net<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
www.team.net
The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time vo=
lunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network con=
nection, name ...




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</head>
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ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>&quot;<span style=3D"font-size: 12pt;">This might be a good time to pay =
a detail shop for their expertise.&quot;.....especially if the other person=
's insurance is paying for it.&nbsp;</span><br>
<br style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, &quot;Appl=
e Color Emoji&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI Emoji&quot;, NotoColorEmoji, &quot;Sego=
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<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" =
color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-=
talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of ejrussell@mebtel.net &lt;ejrus=
sell@mebtel.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 14, 2016 8:41 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> eric@megageek.com<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;">
<div class=3D"PlainText">&gt; So, how do I buff out plastic? <br>
<br>
This might be a good time to pay a detail shop for their expertise. <br>
<br>
Eric Russell<br>
Mebane NC<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 14 23:30:29 2016
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2016 14:18:27 -0700
Importance: Normal
 AEDoDYne4v3BEnaZYCAgbzVriifSLGRw8UB+zTm0RNZmEiCx0CKxhv/y
Subject: [Shop-talk] GPS Tracking
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I=E2=80=99m looking at two different methods of adding GPS tracking, on =
a=20
short-term basis to my car trailer.  Either monthly rental once or twice =

a year or purchase and activate (pay service) for a month at a time as=20
necessary.
Does anybody have experience with GPS tracking for their RV or other?
Looking for specifics, getting ready to use it within a week!
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I=E2=80=99m looking at two different methods of adding GPS =
tracking, on a </DIV>
<DIV>short-term basis to my car trailer.&nbsp; Either monthly rental =
once or=20
twice </DIV>
<DIV>a year or purchase and activate (pay service) for a month at a time =
as=20
</DIV>
<DIV>necessary.</DIV>
<DIV>Does anybody have experience with GPS tracking for their RV or =
other?</DIV>
<DIV>Looking for specifics, getting ready to use it within a week!</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA USA</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 14 23:56:26 2016
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To: eric@megageek.com, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OFC59D290F.3D812538-ON8525802E.0001DD89-8525802E.0002EB13@mail.megageek.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2016 17:10:02 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I second the clay bar with a quick detailer spray as a lubricant. If you 
don't have that handy, I'd try a polish.  The clay bar is fantastic for 
unfortunate things like spray paint and rust from metal shavings sitting 
on the paint.

I had my painted side view mirror clipped by a tow truck's black plastic 
mirror and use some TR-3 polish ( 
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/91/tr_3_resin_glaze_polish/ 
) and it wiped off easily.  I thought it was scratched through the 
paint.  This stuff is wonderful too.


Brian

On 9/13/2016 5:31 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> While I was in DC last week, someone tried to make an illegal turn 
> into me.  My truck was fine, except his rear view mirror scrapped down 
> the side of my truck.
>
> So, how do I buff out plastic?  It didn't scratch the paint as it is 
> proud of the paint.
>
> I didn't want to just compound it and then scratch it up.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA.
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>


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<html>
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    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    I second the clay bar with a quick detailer spray as a lubricant. 
    If you don't have that handy, I'd try a polish.  The clay bar is
    fantastic for unfortunate things like spray paint and rust from
    metal shavings sitting on the paint.<br>
    <br>
    I had my painted side view mirror clipped by a tow truck's black
    plastic mirror and use some TR-3 polish (
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/91/tr_3_resin_glaze_polish/">http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/91/tr_3_resin_glaze_polish/</a>
    ) and it wiped off easily.  I thought it was scratched through the
    paint.  This stuff is wonderful too.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/13/2016 5:31 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:OFC59D290F.3D812538-ON8525802E.0001DD89-8525802E.0002EB13@mail.megageek.com"
      type="cite"><font face="sans-serif" size="2">While I was in DC
        last week, someone tried
        to make an illegal turn into me.  My truck was fine, except his
        rear
        view mirror scrapped down the side of my truck.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">So, how do I buff out plastic?
         It
        didn't scratch the paint as it is proud of the paint.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">I didn't want to just compound it
        and
        then scratch it up.</font>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2"><br>
        Any ideas?</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">TIA.</font>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2"><br>
        <br>
        Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
        Eric P<br>
        "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
        rational
        being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
        Ralph
        Waldo Emerson </font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 15 04:42:24 2016
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2016 20:54:57 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buffing out plastic mirror bits
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

resend - got a delivery bounce

I second the clay bar with a quick detailer spray as a lubricant. If you 
don't have that handy, I'd try a polish.  The clay bar is fantastic for 
unfortunate things like spray paint and rust from metal shavings sitting 
on the paint.

I had my painted side view mirror clipped by a tow truck's black plastic 
mirror and use some TR-3 polish ( 
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/91/tr_3_resin_glaze_polish/ 
) and it wiped off easily.  I thought it was scratched through the 
paint.  This stuff is wonderful too.


Brian

On 9/13/2016 5:31 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> While I was in DC last week, someone tried to make an illegal turn 
> into me.  My truck was fine, except his rear view mirror scrapped down 
> the side of my truck.
>
> So, how do I buff out plastic?  It didn't scratch the paint as it is 
> proud of the paint.
>
> I didn't want to just compound it and then scratch it up.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA.
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 15 12:12:52 2016
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: "'Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA'" <gsteve@hammatt.com>,
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <E1CC21D83E374436A69B2529886E7FF0@StevePC>
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2016 10:56:05 -0400
Thread-Index: AQGxWyn9uRccHKJOkMzTKXI6wEEFLaC8Ccog
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] GPS Tracking
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Steve:  Short answer =E2=80=93 no.

=20

Longer answer:  I looked some time ago, and did not find anything that =
was reasonably priced for tracking a vehicle.  In my case, it is a =
sports car that is not driven for periods of time=E2=80=A6  I wound up =
making my own, using a 2 meter ham radio transceiver.  The model I use =
is a ready-to-go model, so maybe saying =E2=80=98making my own=E2=80=99 =
is a stretch.  See:  http://www.byonics.com/mt-rtg

=20

This won=E2=80=99t work for you on short notice, unless you already have =
your amateur radio license.  Only a Technician level license is needed, =
but you cannot get one on demand in a couple of days=E2=80=A6  If you DO =
have a license, you provide the manufacturer with your call sign, and =
they program it into the radio.  The unit then comes pre-programmed with =
callsign and other parameters.  You just plug it in, and you are up and =
running on the APRS packet system=E2=80=A6

=20

Al Fuller

al at bighealey dot org

'65 BJ-8

'85 Rx-7

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2016 5:18 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] GPS Tracking

=20

I=E2=80=99m looking at two different methods of adding GPS tracking, on =
a=20

short-term basis to my car trailer.  Either monthly rental once or twice =


a year or purchase and activate (pay service) for a month at a time as=20

necessary.

Does anybody have experience with GPS tracking for their RV or other?

Looking for specifics, getting ready to use it within a week!

Thanks.

=20

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA


------=_NextPart_000_027D_01D20F3F.C37AB1C0
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<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered =
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Steve:=C2=A0 Short answer =E2=80=93 no.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Longer answer:=C2=A0 I looked some time ago, and did not find anything =
that was reasonably priced for tracking a vehicle.=C2=A0 In my case, it =
is a sports car that is not driven for periods of time=E2=80=A6=C2=A0 I =
wound up making my own, using a 2 meter ham radio transceiver.=C2=A0 The =
model I use is a ready-to-go model, so maybe saying =E2=80=98making my =
own=E2=80=99 is a stretch.=C2=A0 See:=C2=A0 <a =
href=3D"http://www.byonics.com/mt-rtg">http://www.byonics.com/mt-rtg</a><=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>This won=E2=80=99t work for you on short notice, unless you already =
have your amateur radio license.=C2=A0 Only a Technician level license =
is needed, but you cannot get one on demand in a couple of =
days=E2=80=A6=C2=A0 If you DO have a license, you provide the =
manufacturer with your call sign, and they program it into the =
radio.=C2=A0 The unit then comes pre-programmed with callsign and other =
parameters.=C2=A0 You just plug it in, and you are up and running on the =
APRS packet system=E2=80=A6<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Al Fuller</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>al at bighealey dot org</span><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'85 Rx-7</span><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, =
September 14, 2016 5:18 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] GPS =
Tracking<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>I=E2=80=99m =
looking at two different methods of adding GPS tracking, on a =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>short-term basis =
to my car trailer.&nbsp; Either monthly rental once or twice =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>a year or =
purchase and activate (pay service) for a month at a time as =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>necessary.<o:p></o=
:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Does anybody have =
experience with GPS tracking for their RV or =
other?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Looking for =
specifics, getting ready to use it within a =
week!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Thanks.<o:p></o:p>=
</span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Steve =
Hammatt<br>Mount Vernon WA =
USA<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2016 14:52:53 -0400
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] GPS Tracking
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2016 16:25:06 -0400
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>,
 Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
References: <E1CC21D83E374436A69B2529886E7FF0@StevePC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] GPS Tracking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How about products like trackr and tile?

https://www.thetrackr.com/
https://www.thetileapp.com/

These devices are not going to give you the same =

capabilities as a true GPS tracking system, but =

they are cheap and possible on short notice.

-Steve

At 05:18 PM 9/14/2016, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
>I=E2=80=99m looking at two different methods of adding GPS tracking, on a
>short-term basis to my car trailer.  Either monthly rental once or twice
>a year or purchase and activate (pay service) for a month at a time as
>necessary.
>Does anybody have experience with GPS tracking for their RV or other?
>Looking for specifics, getting ready to use it within a week!
>Thanks.
>
>Steve Hammatt
>Mount Vernon WA USA

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
utox.team.net

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Pick Handle
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a new handle for my heavy vintage pick.  I have not been to a "real"
hardware store yet, only Home Depot.  They had one suitable handle.  The HD
SKU is #682989.  What they have is a normally shaped handle, but instead of
flaring at the top in the original hickory stock to fit the big head opening
of the pick, they have a ribbed plastic collar.  They did not have solid
wood pick handles and this seems a bit odd.

Pros:  The plastic ribbing did like to stick nicely to my pick head and I
suspect the plastic might absorb some vibration

Cons: it looks cheap and I am concerned that it won't hold up.  The finish
on the handle is pretty rough and I will likely refinish it.

Does anyone have experience with these "hybrid" pick handles.  The URL for
the Home Depot one is here.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-36-in-Replacement-Handle-with-Handle-
Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D28I-Insi
deGardenOther%7c&gclid=CMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&gclsrc=aw.ds

I can find the all wood ones on line, but I'd rather not mail order it.  I
once bought the wrong size Axe handle.  It was close, but just not right.
It took too many hours to hand fit that bad-boy and it's acceptable, but not
great.  Never again, if I can avoid it.  

Thanks in advance,

Jack

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 16 10:24:03 2016
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2016 11:02:56 -0400
References: <F424F641-36E3-4158-ABC9-574DEEA4C273@groupwbench.org>
 <F26478C2-A16C-44C1-9493-5DFE28E79291@groupwbench.org>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] State Pumpmate well pressure tanks? (was:Re: Well tank
	losing air pressure)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My local supply house doesn't carry Amtrol but they do have State. I can't find much on the web about their quality. Pricing is similar. Are they decent? The hookups are the same, and it's 4 gallons bigger, which should be ok (maybe give my cycling pump a rest)

thanks,
jim

On Sep 5, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Not long after posting this I finally found a video where some glorious soul had taken one apart. My vision of the bladder holding the air was incorrect; the bladder holds the water, and the air is inside the tank. I then picked at a suspicious paint bubble and soaped it, and that's where I'm losing the air, pinhole leak.
> 
> Here's the video if you'd like to see the innards.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ybMRYrt8U
> 
> jim
> 
> On Sep 4, 2016, at 7:13 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
>> I have an Amtrol WX-203 (installed Sep 2009) and I need to add air more and more often otherwise the pump short cycles like crazy. There's no water spitting from the air valve and no air coming out of the faucets. Is it still a shot tank? I soaped the air valve and don't see any bubbles. Can't think where the air might be going. The tank isn't rusty except for the round frame part at the bottom. 
>> 
>> Easy to replace and it'll probably cure it, but I'd really like to know for sure. Google wasn't much help, surprisingly. 
>> 
>> thanks,
>> jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>> 
> 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] State Pumpmate well pressure tanks? (was:Re: Well
 tank	losing air pressure)
Thread-Index: AQHSEDbcNbiOG/ChQkaunnIBwiknh6B84mMA
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2016 01:18:45 +0000
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 FILETIME=[70716170:01D21081]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] State Pumpmate well pressure tanks? (was:Re: Well
 tank	losing air pressure)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

I've used a State accumulator with no issues after several years.  This was
in a rental home which was then sold. 

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Franklin
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 8:03 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] State Pumpmate well pressure tanks? (was:Re: Well tank
losing air pressure)

My local supply house doesn't carry Amtrol but they do have State. I can't
find much on the web about their quality. Pricing is similar. Are they
decent? The hookups are the same, and it's 4 gallons bigger, which should be
ok (maybe give my cycling pump a rest)

thanks,
jim

On Sep 5, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Not long after posting this I finally found a video where some glorious
soul had taken one apart. My vision of the bladder holding the air was
incorrect; the bladder holds the water, and the air is inside the tank. I
then picked at a suspicious paint bubble and soaped it, and that's where I'm
losing the air, pinhole leak.
> 
> Here's the video if you'd like to see the innards.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ybMRYrt8U
> 
> jim
> 
> On Sep 4, 2016, at 7:13 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
>> I have an Amtrol WX-203 (installed Sep 2009) and I need to add air more
and more often otherwise the pump short cycles like crazy. There's no water
spitting from the air valve and no air coming out of the faucets. Is it
still a shot tank? I soaped the air valve and don't see any bubbles. Can't
think where the air might be going. The tank isn't rusty except for the
round frame part at the bottom. 
>> 
>> Easy to replace and it'll probably cure it, but I'd really like to know
for sure. Google wasn't much help, surprisingly. 
>> 
>> thanks,
>> jim
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
>> $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.or
>> g
>> 
> 

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com


_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 17 09:48:49 2016
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <F424F641-36E3-4158-ABC9-574DEEA4C273@groupwbench.org>
 <F26478C2-A16C-44C1-9493-5DFE28E79291@groupwbench.org>
 <9083E33E-4D17-4622-9FB5-201652AF3273@groupwbench.org>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2016 07:47:28 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] State Pumpmate well pressure tanks?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim - I can't speak to brands, but I don't think a pump should short 
cycle in normal use.  I understand you have a bad tank so you likely 
already know this, but wanted to make sure as I've had it come up in the 
past where a minor adjustment stopped the pump from cycling too often.

My impression that the tank was a buffer for small uses and once a high 
demand use started and pressure dropped, the pump came on and stayed on 
until that use stopped and the tank recharged.  This was done by setting 
the low/high cutoffs on the pump pressure switch.  I would encourage 
finding out more about the proper setting of the pump pressure switch.

Note that this is based on 25 year old experience with a lake cottage, 
so I've included the list to correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe current 
technology or a house with a bigger pump is different.  Again, I know 
your main problem was the bad tank, so maybe this is completely 
irrelevant to your situation.

Brian

On 9/16/2016 8:02 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> My local supply house doesn't carry Amtrol but they do have State. I can't find much on the web about their quality. Pricing is similar. Are they decent? The hookups are the same, and it's 4 gallons bigger, which should be ok (maybe give my cycling pump a rest)
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
> On Sep 5, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>
>> Not long after posting this I finally found a video where some glorious soul had taken one apart. My vision of the bladder holding the air was incorrect; the bladder holds the water, and the air is inside the tank. I then picked at a suspicious paint bubble and soaped it, and that's where I'm losing the air, pinhole leak.
>>
>> Here's the video if you'd like to see the innards.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ybMRYrt8U
>>
>> jim
>>
>> On Sep 4, 2016, at 7:13 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>>
>>> I have an Amtrol WX-203 (installed Sep 2009) and I need to add air more and more often otherwise the pump short cycles like crazy. There's no water spitting from the air valve and no air coming out of the faucets. Is it still a shot tank? I soaped the air valve and don't see any bubbles. Can't think where the air might be going. The tank isn't rusty except for the round frame part at the bottom.
>>>
>>> Easy to replace and it'll probably cure it, but I'd really like to know for sure. Google wasn't much help, surprisingly.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
>>>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2016 13:14:26 -0400
To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1059131134667904723==

--001a113ce0bcef3df7053cdf7268

Not sure if you've looked at Amazon, but they seem to have a variety:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%
3Daps&field-keywords=pick+handle

I can understand not wanting to order one and finding it doesn't fit. You
can often find the dimensions at each end in the listings, though. Perhaps
your local Ace or other hardware store / garden center has more choices in
stock...

-Peter

On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 12:05 AM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com> wrote:

> I need a new handle for my heavy vintage pick.  I have not been to a "real"
> hardware store yet, only Home Depot.  They had one suitable handle.  The HD
> SKU is #682989.  What they have is a normally shaped handle, but instead of
> flaring at the top in the original hickory stock to fit the big head
> opening
> of the pick, they have a ribbed plastic collar.  They did not have solid
> wood pick handles and this seems a bit odd.
>
> Pros:  The plastic ribbing did like to stick nicely to my pick head and I
> suspect the plastic might absorb some vibration
>
> Cons: it looks cheap and I am concerned that it won't hold up.  The finish
> on the handle is pretty rough and I will likely refinish it.
>
> Does anyone have experience with these "hybrid" pick handles.  The URL for
> the Home Depot one is here.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-36-in-Replacement-
> Handle-with-Handle-
> Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%
> 7cG-BASE-PLA-D28I-Insi
> deGardenOther%7c&gclid=CMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
> I can find the all wood ones on line, but I'd rather not mail order it.  I
> once bought the wrong size Axe handle.  It was close, but just not right.
> It took too many hours to hand fit that bad-boy and it's acceptable, but
> not
> great.  Never again, if I can avoid it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jack
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/
> peterwmurray@gmail.com
>
>

--001a113ce0bcef3df7053cdf7268
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Not sure if you&#39;ve looked at Amazon, but they seem to =
have a variety:<div><br></div><div><a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=
=3Dnb_sb_noss_2?url=3Dsearch-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=3Dpick+handle" =
target=3D"_blank">https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=3D<wbr>nb_sb_noss_2?url=3Dse=
arch-alias%<wbr>3Daps&amp;field-keywords=3Dpick+<wbr>handle</a><br></div><d=
iv><br></div><div>I can understand not wanting to order one and finding it =
doesn&#39;t fit. You can often find the dimensions at each end in the listi=
ngs, though. Perhaps your local Ace or other hardware store / garden center=
 has more choices in stock...</div><div><br></div><div>-Peter</div></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Sep 16, 201=
6 at 12:05 AM, Jack Brooks <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:JIBrooks=
@live.com" target=3D"_blank">JIBrooks@live.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><bl=
ockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #=
ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I need a new handle for my heavy vintage pick.=
=C2=A0 I have not been to a &quot;real&quot;<br>
hardware store yet, only Home Depot.=C2=A0 They had one suitable handle.=C2=
=A0 The HD<br>
SKU is #682989.=C2=A0 What they have is a normally shaped handle, but inste=
ad of<br>
flaring at the top in the original hickory stock to fit the big head openin=
g<br>
of the pick, they have a ribbed plastic collar.=C2=A0 They did not have sol=
id<br>
wood pick handles and this seems a bit odd.<br>
<br>
Pros:=C2=A0 The plastic ribbing did like to stick nicely to my pick head an=
d I<br>
suspect the plastic might absorb some vibration<br>
<br>
Cons: it looks cheap and I am concerned that it won&#39;t hold up.=C2=A0 Th=
e finish<br>
on the handle is pretty rough and I will likely refinish it.<br>
<br>
Does anyone have experience with these &quot;hybrid&quot; pick handles.=C2=
=A0 The URL for<br>
the Home Depot one is here.<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-36-in-Replacement-Handle-=
with-Handle-
Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_mmc=3DShopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D28I-I=
nsi
deGardenOther%7c&amp;gclid=3DCMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&amp;gclsrc=3Daw.ds"=
 rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.homedepot.com/p/<wbr>True-=
Temper-36-in-Replacement-<wbr>Handle-with-Handle-<br>
Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_<wbr>mmc=3DShopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%<wbr>7cG-BASE-=
PLA-D28I-Insi<br>
deGardenOther%7c&amp;gclid=3D<wbr>CMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&amp;<wbr>gclsr=
c=3Daw.ds</a><br>
<br>
I can find the all wood ones on line, but I&#39;d rather not mail order it.=
=C2=A0 I<br>
once bought the wrong size Axe handle.=C2=A0 It was close, but just not rig=
ht.<br>
It took too many hours to hand fit that bad-boy and it&#39;s acceptable, bu=
t not<br>
great.=C2=A0 Never again, if I can avoid it.<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance,<br>
<br>
Jack<br>
<br>
______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/peterwmurray@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>options/shop-talk/<wbr>peterwmurray@gmail.com</a><=
br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br></div>

--001a113ce0bcef3df7053cdf7268--

--===============1059131134667904723==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1059131134667904723==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 19 20:21:11 2016
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To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>,
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DM2PR08MB319B24BDF109CB2DAB8DA46A8F30@DM2PR08MB319.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2016 18:09:38 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jack - I'd also look at a local landscaping supply place where the 
contractors go.  They are more likely to wear out handles and replace 
them, so a place that caters to them is probably a good start.

Brian

On 9/15/2016 9:05 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> I need a new handle for my heavy vintage pick.  I have not been to a "real"
> hardware store yet, only Home Depot.  They had one suitable handle.  The HD
> SKU is #682989.  What they have is a normally shaped handle, but instead of
> flaring at the top in the original hickory stock to fit the big head opening
> of the pick, they have a ribbed plastic collar.  They did not have solid
> wood pick handles and this seems a bit odd.
>
> Pros:  The plastic ribbing did like to stick nicely to my pick head and I
> suspect the plastic might absorb some vibration
>
> Cons: it looks cheap and I am concerned that it won't hold up.  The finish
> on the handle is pretty rough and I will likely refinish it.
>
> Does anyone have experience with these "hybrid" pick handles.  The URL for
> the Home Depot one is here.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-36-in-Replacement-Handle-with-Handle-
> Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D28I-Insi
> deGardenOther%7c&gclid=CMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
> I can find the all wood ones on line, but I'd rather not mail order it.  I
> once bought the wrong size Axe handle.  It was close, but just not right.
> It took too many hours to hand fit that bad-boy and it's acceptable, but not
> great.  Never again, if I can avoid it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jack
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>
>

_______________________________________________

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
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Thanks Brian.  Landscape supply houses make sense.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Kemp [mailto:bk13@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 6:10 PM
To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle

Jack - I'd also look at a local landscaping supply place where the
contractors go.  They are more likely to wear out handles and replace them,
so a place that caters to them is probably a good start.

Brian

On 9/15/2016 9:05 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> I need a new handle for my heavy vintage pick.  I have not been to a
"real"
> hardware store yet, only Home Depot.  They had one suitable handle.  
> The HD SKU is #682989.  What they have is a normally shaped handle, 
> but instead of flaring at the top in the original hickory stock to fit 
> the big head opening of the pick, they have a ribbed plastic collar.  
> They did not have solid wood pick handles and this seems a bit odd.
>
> Pros:  The plastic ribbing did like to stick nicely to my pick head 
> and I suspect the plastic might absorb some vibration
>
> Cons: it looks cheap and I am concerned that it won't hold up.  The 
> finish on the handle is pretty rough and I will likely refinish it.
>
> Does anyone have experience with these "hybrid" pick handles.  The URL 
> for the Home Depot one is here.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-36-in-Replacement-Handle-with-H
> andle- 
> Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D28
> I-Insi deGardenOther%7c&gclid=CMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&gclsrc=aw.ds
>
> I can find the all wood ones on line, but I'd rather not mail order 
> it.  I once bought the wrong size Axe handle.  It was close, but just not
right.
> It took too many hours to hand fit that bad-boy and it's acceptable, 
> but not great.  Never again, if I can avoid it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jack
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>
>


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle
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Peter and Bolin(?)

I like the tractor show idea, and that might be fun.  I do have a more rustic hardware store close by.  I' planned on checking that next as it's closer.  My original inquiry was about the plastic mount on the end of the handle hybrid I saw at the depot.  Apparently no one is impressed with that!

Thanks,

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: bolin@mwt.net [mailto:bolin@mwt.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 6:00 PM
To: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net; Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pick Handle

Go to a tractor show and you can get as good hickory one and cheap.

On Sep 19, 2016 12:14 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Not sure if you've looked at Amazon, but they seem to have a variety:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field
> -keywords=pick+handle
>
> I can understand not wanting to order one and finding it doesn't fit. You can often find the dimensions at each end in the listings, though. Perhaps your local Ace or other hardware store / garden center has more choices in stock...
>
> -Peter
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 12:05 AM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com> wrote:
>>
>> I need a new handle for my heavy vintage pick.  I have not been to a "real"
>> hardware store yet, only Home Depot.  They had one suitable handle.  
>> The HD SKU is #682989.  What they have is a normally shaped handle, 
>> but instead of flaring at the top in the original hickory stock to 
>> fit the big head opening of the pick, they have a ribbed plastic 
>> collar.  They did not have solid wood pick handles and this seems a bit odd.
>>
>> Pros:  The plastic ribbing did like to stick nicely to my pick head 
>> and I suspect the plastic might absorb some vibration
>>
>> Cons: it looks cheap and I am concerned that it won't hold up.  The 
>> finish on the handle is pretty rough and I will likely refinish it.
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with these "hybrid" pick handles.  The 
>> URL for the Home Depot one is here.
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-36-in-Replacement-Handle-with-
>> Handle- 
>> Guard-2036900/100605612?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D2
>> 8I-Insi 
>> deGardenOther%7c&gclid=CMr28Nn-ks8CFUWBfgoddWIPDA&gclsrc=aw.ds
>>
>> I can find the all wood ones on line, but I'd rather not mail order 
>> it.  I once bought the wrong size Axe handle.  It was close, but just not right.
>> It took too many hours to hand fit that bad-boy and it's acceptable, 
>> but not great.  Never again, if I can avoid it.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Jack
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
>> $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.co
>> m
>>
>

_______________________________________________

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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Jim <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 10:41:54 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage heaters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I am at the point of selecting a gas (LP) heater for my 24'x36'x10' 
barn, which also has a second floor 16'x36'x8' space.  I have searched 
for sources and have narrowed to a 80,000 btu Mr. Heater and a 75,000 
bto Modine Hot Dawg.  The pricing from various sources, thanks to a 
current Northen Tool sale on the Mr. Heater, are within $75 of each 
other, including their horizontal vent kits.  My incination is to go 
with the Modine because I have heard of and seen them more often.  Can 
anyone give me opinions on the choice of one versus the other?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 25 13:44:57 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 17:08:46 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Solenoid question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4065020416540850504==

----__JWM__Jd26e9b8.1def2ee4S.64c28c6fM
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 I have been resurrecting a jet ski this summer and rather than wear dow=
n the tiny battery, I was doing most of the cranking with power from my =
12 volt battery charger/starter set to the starting/225A setting.  It re=
ally turned it over much better than the puny battery.  Well, after a fe=
w days, the solenoid crapped out, so I scavenged one from another junked=
 ski and all was fine.  Recently I was to the point of a shake down crui=
se and I find another dead solenoid.  I guess it is possible that both o=
ld solenoids just happened to be at the end of their life but I wonder i=
s there some reason that starting from a powered source rather then a ba=
ttery would be detrimental to the relay/solenoid? The good news is that =
rather than pay the $70 the local watercraft dealer wanted, I googled th=
e PN stamped on the failed solenoid and found replacements on amazon & e=
bay for $6!  So now I have several new ones but don't want to kill them =
if the start cart is a bad idea. TIA!
----__JWM__Jd26e9b8.1def2ee4S.64c28c6fM
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<html><div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have been resurrecting a jet ski this summer and rather than wear=
 down the tiny battery, I was doing most of the cranking with power from=
 my 12 volt battery charger/starter set to the starting/225A setting. &n=
bsp;It really turned it over much better than the puny battery. &nbsp;We=
ll, after a few days, the solenoid crapped out, so I scavenged one from =
another junked ski and all was fine. &nbsp;Recently I was to the point o=
f a shake down cruise and I find another dead solenoid. &nbsp;I guess it=
 is possible that both old solenoids just happened to be at the end of t=
heir life but I wonder is there some reason that starting from a powered=
 source rather then a battery would be detrimental to the relay/solenoid=
?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The good news is that rather than pay the $70 the local watercraft =
dealer wanted, I googled the PN stamped on the failed solenoid and found=
 replacements on amazon &amp; ebay for $6! &nbsp;So now I have several n=
ew ones but don't want to kill them if the start cart is a bad idea.</di=
v>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>TIA!</div></html>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4065020416540850504==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 25 17:36:56 2016
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To: Jim <james.f.juhas@snet.net>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <9052f709-202f-65d7-7968-a4c9f6e3f7fd@snet.net>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 13:40:58 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.3.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage heaters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Mr. Heater in my 1200 foot shop (pole building with no ceiling 
and very poor insulation) and it works fine in the Pacific Northwest 
winters.  Mine is propane and I only run it when I'm in the shop.  I 
have probably had it for over ten years with no problems.  I'm sure 
either one of them will work fine for you.

On 9/25/2016 7:41 AM, Jim wrote:
> I am at the point of selecting a gas (LP) heater for my 24'x36'x10' 
> barn, which also has a second floor 16'x36'x8' space.  I have searched 
> for sources and have narrowed to a 80,000 btu Mr. Heater and a 75,000 
> bto Modine Hot Dawg.  The pricing from various sources, thanks to a 
> current Northen Tool sale on the Mr. Heater, are within $75 of each 
> other, including their horizontal vent kits.  My incination is to go 
> with the Modine because I have heard of and seen them more often.  Can 
> anyone give me opinions on the choice of one versus the other?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
>
>


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 25 20:44:19 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Matt'" <mbarre@juno.com>,
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20160925.130846.25916.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 15:46:41 -0700
Thread-Index: AdIXZkKuwo7IB41ATPGMM+JN5P/atgAF+T1w
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Solenoid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I was doing most of the cranking with power from my 12
> volt battery charger/starter set to the starting/225A setting.  

Most of those type of units have really poor voltage regulation, open
circuit voltage on the 'Start' setting may be as high as 24v or more!

My guess is the high voltage (possibly in the form of a huge inrush current
when the solenoid contacts close) is what killed the solenoid.

You can still use the charger, just leave the battery in the circuit.
Probably best to turn the charger down, and then give the starter a rest
when the battery gets tired; as the starter will also have a very limited
duty cycle.

-- Randall 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 27 02:38:57 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2016 00:32:41 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Solenoid question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5346209020598176040==

----__JWM__J2ff1bb8a.7da49817S.112b2327M
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Thanks John and Randall.I figured there was some way it was overdriving =
the solenoid.  I didn't think it would be the amps because batteries can=
 provide plenty of them.Wasn't aware that the voltage regulation was sus=
pect! I WAS very careful to not cook the starter - those are expensive. =
I think I will just use a car battery & cables for further testing. MB

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Matt'" <mbarre@juno.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Solenoid question
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 15:46:41 -0700

> I was doing most of the cranking with power from my 12
> volt battery charger/starter set to the starting/225A setting.  =


Most of those type of units have really poor voltage regulation, open
circuit voltage on the 'Start' setting may be as high as 24v or more!

My guess is the high voltage (possibly in the form of a huge inrush curr=
ent
when the solenoid contacts close) is what killed the solenoid.

You can still use the charger, just leave the battery in the circuit.
Probably best to turn the charger down, and then give the starter a rest=

when the battery gets tired; as the starter will also have a very limite=
d
duty cycle.

-- Randall

----__JWM__J2ff1bb8a.7da49817S.112b2327M
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<html><div>Thanks John and Randall.</div>
<div>I figured there was some way it was overdriving the solenoid. &nbsp=
;I didn't think it would&nbsp;be the amps because batteries can provide =
plenty of them.</div>
<div>Wasn't aware that the voltage regulation was suspect!</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I WAS very careful to not cook the starter - those are expensive.</=
div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I think I will just use a car battery &amp; cables for further test=
ing.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>MB</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: "Randall" &=
lt;TR3driver@ca.rr.com&gt;<br>To: "'Matt'" &lt;mbarre@juno.com&gt;, &lt;=
shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Solenoid questi=
on<br>Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 15:46:41 -0700<br><br>&gt; I was doing most=
 of the cranking with power from my 12<br>&gt; volt battery charger/star=
ter set to the starting/225A setting. &nbsp;<br><br>Most of those type o=
f units have really poor voltage regulation, open<br>circuit voltage on =
the 'Start' setting may be as high as 24v or more!<br><br>My guess is th=
e high voltage (possibly in the form of a huge inrush current<br>when th=
e solenoid contacts close) is what killed the solenoid.<br><br>You can s=
till use the charger, just leave the battery in the circuit.<br>Probably=
 best to turn the charger down, and then give the starter a rest<br>when=
 the battery gets tired; as the starter will also have a very limited<br=
>duty cycle.<br><br>-- Randall</p></html>

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