Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 07:30:09 -0400

> the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting
> permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic or
> metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  

A piece of heater hose and a steel plug should last a LOT longer than a
"couple of years".  Then change the hose every decade or two, when you
replace the other hoses.

Or what I would probably do is cut the tube off flush with the WP housing,
and tap for a plug.

-- Randall

_______________________________________________

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Pat Horne <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:37:22 -0500

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Heater hose should last longer than a few years, so put a stub of hose on th=
e fitting & plug the hose.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity

On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon <[email-masked]> wrote:

Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.0 eng=
ine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal pipe wit=
h a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. since t=
he generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a screw c=
lamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays antifr=
eeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is below the sens=
or and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal fitting=
 seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex fittin=
g to screw it out.  I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new=
 water pump...=20
=20
the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting permanently i=
nstead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic or metal that can s=
tand the heat and vibration and not leak  I=E2=80=99m about ready to drive a=
 wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make something that will work...=

=20
shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s running (=
and not leaking antifreeze)
=20
thanks
John
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]
[email-masked]

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Heater hose should last longer than a f=
ew years, so put a stub of hose on the fitting &amp; plug the hose.&nbsp;</d=
iv><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">P=
eace,</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We s=
upport Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><=
br>On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@at=
t.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.=
0=20
engine.&nbsp; The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal p=
ipe=20
with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. sin=
ce=20
the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a screw=
=20
clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays=20
antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is below th=
e=20
sensor and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal fit=
ting=20
seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting=
 to=20
screw it out.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new=
 water=20
pump... </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting permane=
ntly=20
instead of the cap that deteriorates ??&nbsp; something plastic or metal tha=
t=20
can stand the heat and vibration and not leak&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m about ready t=
o drive a=20
wooden plug in it !!!&nbsp; somebody has got to make something that will=20
work...</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s run=
ning (and=20
not leaking antifreeze)</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>thanks</div>
<div>John</div></div></div>
</div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><=
span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Shop-talk@=
autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/do=
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span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/sh=
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lk/[email-masked]</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: "john niolon" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 07:34:33 -0500

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You just turned on a light bulb Pat...  I=E2=80=99ve been using those =
little tubing caps that you buy off the =E2=80=9CHELP=E2=80=9D rack in =
the auto parts stores... not using =E2=80=98real=E2=80=99 heater hose... =
so Pat, you answered my query... I=E2=80=99ll cut a short piece of =
heater hose... real thick heater hose and plug it... then install it... =
I=E2=80=99ll bet that does last more than those little caps...   Thanks =
Pat and all that offered suggestions !!!

john

From: Pat Horne=20
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 6:37 AM
To: john niolon=20
Cc: shop-talk=20
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting

Heater hose should last longer than a few years, so put a stub of hose =
on the fitting & plug the hose.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne =20

Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.0 =
engine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal =
pipe with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater =
hose.. since the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap =
held on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates =
and either sprays antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the =
coolant level is below the sensor and the generator will not run (no/low =
coolant fault).. the metal fitting seems to be press fit into the water =
pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting to screw it out.  I =
don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new water pump...=20

the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting =
permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic =
or metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  I=E2=80=99m =
about ready to drive a wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make =
something that will work...

shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s =
running (and not leaking antifreeze)

thanks
John

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3Dcontent-type></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>You just turned on a light bulb Pat...&nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve been =
using those little=20
tubing caps that you buy off the =E2=80=9CHELP=E2=80=9D rack in the auto =
parts stores... not=20
using =E2=80=98real=E2=80=99 heater hose... so Pat, you answered my =
query... I=E2=80=99ll cut a short=20
piece of heater hose... real thick heater hose and plug it... then =
install it...=20
I=E2=80=99ll bet that does last more than those little =
caps...&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks Pat=20
and all that offered suggestions !!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Pat Horne</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 02, 2016 6:37 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked] =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">john=20
niolon</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">shop-talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater =
hose=20
fitting</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV>Heater hose should last longer than a few years, so put a stub of =
hose on=20
the fitting &amp; plug the hose. </DIV>
<DIV id=3DAppleMailSignature>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3DAppleMailSignature>Peace,</DIV>
<DIV id=3DAppleMailSignature>Pat<BR><BR>Pat Horne&nbsp;=20
<DIV>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt; =
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford =
v-6 3.0=20
engine.&nbsp; The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical =
metal pipe=20
with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. =
since=20
the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a =
screw=20
clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays=20
antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is =
below the=20
sensor and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal =
fitting=20
seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex =
fitting to=20
screw it out.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a =
new water=20
pump... </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting =
permanently=20
instead of the cap that deteriorates ??&nbsp; something plastic or metal =
that=20
can stand the heat and vibration and not leak&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m about =
ready to drive a=20
wooden plug in it !!!&nbsp; somebody has got to make something that will =

work...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s =
running (and=20
not leaking antifreeze)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>John</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN>_______________________________________________</SPAN><BR><SPA=
N></SPAN><BR><SPAN><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A></SP=
AN><BR><SPAN>Donate:=20
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href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/A></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Suggested=20
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From: Dave Cavanaugh <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 15:31:56 -0700

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That's a big standby generator.  What are you powering, a dairy?

I kind of like the plug idea; you can get expandable rubber plugs, but 
I'm not sure how they would hold up over time.  How about the wooden 
plug idea, only slightly less OD than a drive-in fit, coated with JB 
Weld (not Quik)?

Or if you can find a copper sweat cap fitting the correct size to slip 
over the pipe and solder it on.

On 8/1/2016 8:59 AM, john niolon wrote:
> Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 
> 3.0 engine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical 
> metal pipe with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the 
> heater hose.. since the generator has no heater this fitting has a 
> rubber cap held on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap 
> deteriorates and either sprays antifreeze every dang where or just 
> seeps till the coolant level is below the sensor and the generator 
> will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal fitting seems to be 
> press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting to 
> screw it out.  I don’t want to screw it up and it cost me a new water 
> pump...
> permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ?? something plastic 
> or metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  I’m about 
> ready to drive a wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make 
> shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it’s running 
> (and not leaking antifreeze)
> thanks
> John
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>

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    That's a big standby generator.  What are you powering, a dairy?  <br>
    <br>
    I kind of like the plug idea; you can get expandable rubber plugs,
    but I'm not sure how they would hold up over time.  How about the
    wooden plug idea, only slightly less OD than a drive-in fit, coated
    with JB Weld (not Quik)?  <br>
    <br>
    Or if you can find a copper sweat cap fitting the correct size to
    slip over the pipe and solder it on.  <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/1/2016 8:59 AM, john niolon wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:F55A2D7DE0654F03AFC7BD4DD09AC86F@UserPC"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR:
          #000000">
          <div>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has
            a ford v-6 3.0 engine.  The water pump has a heater hose
            outlet pipe... typical metal pipe with a bubble flare at the
            hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. since the
            generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held
            on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap
            deteriorates and either sprays antifreeze every dang where
            or just seeps till the coolant level is below the sensor and
            the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the
            metal fitting seems to be press fit into the water pump (no
            obvious threads or hex fitting to screw it out.  I don’t
            want to screw it up and it cost me a new water pump... </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>the question... is there another way to seal this metal
            fitting permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ?? 
            something plastic or metal that can stand the heat and
            vibration and not leak  I’m about ready to drive a wooden
            plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make something that will
            work...</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when
            it’s running (and not leaking antifreeze)</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>thanks</div>
          <div>John</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

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From: John Miller <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2016 17:06:31 -0700

>> something that will work...

I don't know the EXACT configuration of the engine/pump you're talking 
about, but you ought to be able to grab that tube with some vise grips, 
dump some PB Blaster on it and wiggle it out, then tap the hole for a 
3/8NPT or whatever pipe plug.

I've done that on various castings of similar configuration.

John.

[email-masked]
utox.team.net