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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 10:59:30 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.0 =
engine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal =
pipe with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater =
hose.. since the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap =
held on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates =
and either sprays antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the =
coolant level is below the sensor and the generator will not run (no/low =
coolant fault).. the metal fitting seems to be press fit into the water =
pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting to screw it out.  I =
don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new water pump...=20

the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting =
permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic =
or metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  I=E2=80=99m =
about ready to drive a wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make =
something that will work...

shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s =
running (and not leaking antifreeze)

thanks
John
------=_NextPart_000_03AB_01D1EBE3.C7603690
	charset="UTF-8"
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford =
v-6 3.0=20
engine.&nbsp; The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical =
metal pipe=20
with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. =
since=20
the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a =
screw=20
clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays=20
antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is =
below the=20
sensor and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal =
fitting=20
seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex =
fitting to=20
screw it out.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a =
new water=20
pump... </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting =
permanently=20
instead of the cap that deteriorates ??&nbsp; something plastic or metal =
that=20
can stand the heat and vibration and not leak&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m about =
ready to drive a=20
wooden plug in it !!!&nbsp; somebody has got to make something that will =

work...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s =
running (and=20
not leaking antifreeze)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>John</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1061034748251243882==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  2 20:34:46 2016
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'john niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <F55A2D7DE0654F03AFC7BD4DD09AC86F@UserPC>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 07:30:09 -0400
Thread-Index: AdHsjze7xhUlD7EaQruLmXO3Cyx5rgAIUZuw
 a=jYKPdkyBZRsFksf2v43pbw==:117 a=jYKPdkyBZRsFksf2v43pbw==:17
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting
> permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic or
> metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  

A piece of heater hose and a steel plug should last a LOT longer than a
"couple of years".  Then change the hose every decade or two, when you
replace the other hoses.

Or what I would probably do is cut the tube off flush with the WP housing,
and tap for a plug.

-- Randall

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  2 20:51:36 2016
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References: <F55A2D7DE0654F03AFC7BD4DD09AC86F@UserPC>
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:37:22 -0500
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
 t=1470137846; bh=gm2ZfjSpZzztdvj3ursseCzlH987Sj28Qgod5V7bv8g=; 
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Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============3300981493281226336==
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--Apple-Mail-DAB3B7AC-0684-4BE2-A373-E9B81D83F9EC
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Heater hose should last longer than a few years, so put a stub of hose on th=
e fitting & plug the hose.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.0 eng=
ine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal pipe wit=
h a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. since t=
he generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a screw c=
lamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays antifr=
eeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is below the sens=
or and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal fitting=
 seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex fittin=
g to screw it out.  I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new=
 water pump...=20
=20
the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting permanently i=
nstead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic or metal that can s=
tand the heat and vibration and not leak  I=E2=80=99m about ready to drive a=
 wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make something that will work...=

=20
shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s running (=
and not leaking antifreeze)
=20
thanks
John
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-DAB3B7AC-0684-4BE2-A373-E9B81D83F9EC
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Heater hose should last longer than a f=
ew years, so put a stub of hose on the fitting &amp; plug the hose.&nbsp;</d=
iv><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">P=
eace,</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We s=
upport Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><=
br>On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@at=
t.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.=
0=20
engine.&nbsp; The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal p=
ipe=20
with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. sin=
ce=20
the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a screw=
=20
clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays=20
antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is below th=
e=20
sensor and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal fit=
ting=20
seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting=
 to=20
screw it out.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new=
 water=20
pump... </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting permane=
ntly=20
instead of the cap that deteriorates ??&nbsp; something plastic or metal tha=
t=20
can stand the heat and vibration and not leak&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m about ready t=
o drive a=20
wooden plug in it !!!&nbsp; somebody has got to make something that will=20
work...</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s run=
ning (and=20
not leaking antifreeze)</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>thanks</div>
<div>John</div></div></div>
</div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><=
span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@=
autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested ann=
ual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><=
span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/sh=
op-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-ta=
lk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3300981493281226336==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  2 21:32:15 2016
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Pat Horne" <patintexas@icloud.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <F55A2D7DE0654F03AFC7BD4DD09AC86F@UserPC>
 <DF1DF101-56B9-435A-8E0B-C50CAECAFC3D@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 07:34:33 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============4914939977262621450==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_04BD_01D1EC90.509828D0"

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	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

You just turned on a light bulb Pat...  I=E2=80=99ve been using those =
little tubing caps that you buy off the =E2=80=9CHELP=E2=80=9D rack in =
the auto parts stores... not using =E2=80=98real=E2=80=99 heater hose... =
so Pat, you answered my query... I=E2=80=99ll cut a short piece of =
heater hose... real thick heater hose and plug it... then install it... =
I=E2=80=99ll bet that does last more than those little caps...   Thanks =
Pat and all that offered suggestions !!!

john

From: Pat Horne=20
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 6:37 AM
To: john niolon=20
Cc: shop-talk=20
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting

Heater hose should last longer than a few years, so put a stub of hose =
on the fitting & plug the hose.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne =20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:


Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 3.0 =
engine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical metal =
pipe with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater =
hose.. since the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap =
held on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates =
and either sprays antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the =
coolant level is below the sensor and the generator will not run (no/low =
coolant fault).. the metal fitting seems to be press fit into the water =
pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting to screw it out.  I =
don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a new water pump...=20

the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting =
permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic =
or metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  I=E2=80=99m =
about ready to drive a wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make =
something that will work...

shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s =
running (and not leaking antifreeze)

thanks
John
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com


------=_NextPart_000_04BD_01D1EC90.509828D0
	charset="UTF-8"
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3Dcontent-type></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>You just turned on a light bulb Pat...&nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve been =
using those little=20
tubing caps that you buy off the =E2=80=9CHELP=E2=80=9D rack in the auto =
parts stores... not=20
using =E2=80=98real=E2=80=99 heater hose... so Pat, you answered my =
query... I=E2=80=99ll cut a short=20
piece of heater hose... real thick heater hose and plug it... then =
install it...=20
I=E2=80=99ll bet that does last more than those little =
caps...&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks Pat=20
and all that offered suggestions !!!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dpatintexas@icloud.com=20
href=3D"mailto:patintexas@icloud.com">Pat Horne</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 02, 2016 6:37 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Djniolon@att.net =
href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">john=20
niolon</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=3Dshop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater =
hose=20
fitting</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV>Heater hose should last longer than a few years, so put a stub of =
hose on=20
the fitting &amp; plug the hose. </DIV>
<DIV id=3DAppleMailSignature>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3DAppleMailSignature>Peace,</DIV>
<DIV id=3DAppleMailSignature>Pat<BR><BR>Pat Horne&nbsp;=20
<DIV>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Aug 1, 2016, at 10:59 AM, john niolon &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">jniolon@att.net</A>&gt; =
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford =
v-6 3.0=20
engine.&nbsp; The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical =
metal pipe=20
with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. =
since=20
the generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held on by a =
screw=20
clamp... every couple of years this cap deteriorates and either sprays=20
antifreeze every dang where or just seeps till the coolant level is =
below the=20
sensor and the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal =
fitting=20
seems to be press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex =
fitting to=20
screw it out.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t want to screw it up and it cost me a =
new water=20
pump... </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting =
permanently=20
instead of the cap that deteriorates ??&nbsp; something plastic or metal =
that=20
can stand the heat and vibration and not leak&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m about =
ready to drive a=20
wooden plug in it !!!&nbsp; somebody has got to make something that will =

work...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it=E2=80=99s =
running (and=20
not leaking antifreeze)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>John</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN>_______________________________________________</SPAN><BR><SPA=
N></SPAN><BR><SPAN><A=20
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</A></SP=
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href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
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References: <579A86BC.708@snet.net>
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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 10:45:21 -0400
To: rwil@sbcglobal.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding v. Rivets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My thought was that I can seal the area with a silicone adhesive or automotive bonding agents that will not be compromised by welding, and so superior to weld through coatings and the like. The bed is attached to the truck frame with eight 1/2 inch bolts so the rivets (or welds) do not add much structural integrity to the structure.

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

> On Jul 31, 2016, at 6:33 PM, rwil@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> 
> Based on owning an Austin Healey with steel fenders and aluminum
> shroud I would vote for the rosette welds.  You can probably get to
> much of the heated metal around the welds with some paint or LPS2.
> There is even weld through primer but I don't know how successful it
> is.  If you are using MIG or TIG the heat affected zone will be small,
> but if you use oxyacetelene it will be pretty big and you will need to
> respond accordingly.
> 
> If you use aluminum rivets you will need to take the same precautions
> to keep the rivet area dry or sealed, too.  If you do, the result will
> probably last for longer than you will have the truck anyhow.
> 
> -Roland
>> On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 18:27:08 -0400, you wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I am replacing the support rails for the bed of my 2007 F250.  (I 
>> thought about a bed replacement but it seems the rails are the only 
>> rotten parts.  NO RUST in the fender wells!)
>> 
>> Once the old rails are removed, my plan was to rosette-weld in the new 
>> ones.  But, I have the ability to use aircraft rivets, probably 3/16" 
>> size.  If I do this, I can seal the entire junction with silicone, as 
>> I've done in my FFR Roadster. Welding will leave a place for corrosion, 
>> but would the exposure be better or worse with the dissimilar metal of 
>> the rivets, aluminum v. steel?
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <F55A2D7DE0654F03AFC7BD4DD09AC86F@UserPC>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 15:31:56 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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That's a big standby generator.  What are you powering, a dairy?

I kind of like the plug idea; you can get expandable rubber plugs, but 
I'm not sure how they would hold up over time.  How about the wooden 
plug idea, only slightly less OD than a drive-in fit, coated with JB 
Weld (not Quik)?

Or if you can find a copper sweat cap fitting the correct size to slip 
over the pipe and solder it on.

On 8/1/2016 8:59 AM, john niolon wrote:
> Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has a ford v-6 
> 3.0 engine.  The water pump has a heater hose outlet pipe... typical 
> metal pipe with a bubble flare at the hose end where you clamp on the 
> heater hose.. since the generator has no heater this fitting has a 
> rubber cap held on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap 
> deteriorates and either sprays antifreeze every dang where or just 
> seeps till the coolant level is below the sensor and the generator 
> will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the metal fitting seems to be 
> press fit into the water pump (no obvious threads or hex fitting to 
> screw it out.  I don’t want to screw it up and it cost me a new water 
> pump...
> the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting 
> permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ?? something plastic 
> or metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  I’m about 
> ready to drive a wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make 
> something that will work...
> shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when it’s running 
> (and not leaking antifreeze)
> thanks
> John
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    That's a big standby generator.  What are you powering, a dairy?  <br>
    <br>
    I kind of like the plug idea; you can get expandable rubber plugs,
    but I'm not sure how they would hold up over time.  How about the
    wooden plug idea, only slightly less OD than a drive-in fit, coated
    with JB Weld (not Quik)?  <br>
    <br>
    Or if you can find a copper sweat cap fitting the correct size to
    slip over the pipe and solder it on.  <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/1/2016 8:59 AM, john niolon wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:F55A2D7DE0654F03AFC7BD4DD09AC86F@UserPC"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR:
          #000000">
          <div>Hi Guys... got a Generac 30kw standby generator... it has
            a ford v-6 3.0 engine.  The water pump has a heater hose
            outlet pipe... typical metal pipe with a bubble flare at the
            hose end where you clamp on the heater hose.. since the
            generator has no heater this fitting has a rubber cap held
            on by a screw clamp... every couple of years this cap
            deteriorates and either sprays antifreeze every dang where
            or just seeps till the coolant level is below the sensor and
            the generator will not run (no/low coolant fault).. the
            metal fitting seems to be press fit into the water pump (no
            obvious threads or hex fitting to screw it out.  I don’t
            want to screw it up and it cost me a new water pump... </div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>the question... is there another way to seal this metal
            fitting permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ?? 
            something plastic or metal that can stand the heat and
            vibration and not leak  I’m about ready to drive a wooden
            plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make something that will
            work...</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>shop content... it keeps the lights on in my shop when
            it’s running (and not leaking antifreeze)</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>thanks</div>
          <div>John</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 18:31:55 -0400
References: <579A86BC.708@snet.net>
 <vhuspbdfsot9rqomacbp0gludl9erbsa4a@4ax.com>
 <6914D0AF-5F3A-494D-AE30-1BBB95F4D109@snet.net>
 <20160802162018.4272209.47091.4575@sbcglobal.net>
To: rwil@sbcglobal.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding v. Rivets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I learned that the aluminum F150s rely on rivets rather than welds both in manufacture and repair. There is a specialized rivet gun they use that pierces the panels and doesn't go through the back panel. See henrob.com for details. I understand spot welding aluminum consumes vast amounts of amperage, more than most repair shops can handle.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2016, at 12:20 PM, rwil@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> 
> Makes sense to me. 
> -Roland
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.
>   Original Message  
> From: Jim Juhas
> Sent: Tuesday, August 2, 2016 7:45 AM
> To: rwil@sbcglobal.net
> Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding v. Rivets
> 
> My thought was that I can seal the area with a silicone adhesive or automotive bonding agents that will not be compromised by welding, and so superior to weld through coatings and the like. The bed is attached to the truck frame with eight 1/2 inch bolts so the rivets (or welds) do not add much structural integrity to the structure.
> 
> Sent via iPad
> Jim Juhas
> 
>> 
> 

_______________________________________________

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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <8CE392E4-B614-4175-BFC5-CFAE42E3437C@groupwbench.org>
 <DB4DD528-D326-4EB0-A14B-FAA120D022CA@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 10:33:45 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJZPipHttKonHUzgWZd3bX1Gy9PKwEKDFUWAlSpcc4=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Have you built your own house?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim:

I echo Pat's comments, and would add the following:

I helped my best friend build his house some years ago, and we had the/a
builder put up the shell and some of the rough carpentry.  

The builder may also have contracted for the shovel, which was good, because
the guy made a mistake [dug too much], which could not easily be fixed [in
Michigan you cannot build on fill, so they could not just put the dirt back
in the ground.  The foundation for the house had to be slightly enlarged -
which becomes a contract nightmare of who is responsible, and who will pay
for the extra footprint of the house -- if you are not experienced...]

Overall, we did most of the carpentry, all of the electrical up to the
tie-in, for which we hired a professional.  The roof was done by a roofing
company, even though he and I had done many roofs in our time - it was just
better to have the professionals up there 2 and 1/2 stories in the summer
heat.  We did the plumbing ourselves.

We put up much of the wall boards, and had professionals in to finish them
off.  We did the painting.  I don't recall who did the flooring.

As regards financing:  he was able to get a construction or bridge loan,
probably because the builder was involved.  At the end, the bank required a
particular minimum level of finishing before it would transition to a
regular mortgage loan, so you can't just stop where you want...  The
building inspector looked at the house a bit more closely [in my
opinion...], knowing the owner was doing much of the work.  My friend took
on the responsibility of coordinating the periodic or step inspections that
had to be done before certain things were closed up.

It was a tremendous amount of work, and more so if you are juggling other
responsibilities [job, family, etc...].  I was working at my business full
time, so I would work on the house from 6-12p, plus 18hr Sat/Sun as a
minimum.  As I recall, this took 6-8 months.

In the end, I guess if I were 30 years younger than I am now, yes - I would
do it again.  The main change I would make is to ensure the homeowner paid
for an architect, so as to ensure all issues of livability are settled in
favor of what the owners want and need.

I hope this helps.

Al Fuller
al at bighealey dot org
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat
Horne
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2016 8:39 AM
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Have you built your own house?

Jim,
Building your own house is certainly possible. I've built quite a few as a
house lead working with Habitat for Humanity.  I know that leading a house
construction is different from doing it yourself, but it will give you an
idea. I also built my shop with the help of a couple friends. 

There are several things to consider. 
How complex is your house? The more complex, the longer it will take to
build it. 

How sure you will have the conviction to stick with the project through
completion? The Habitat houses I build take up to 4000 man hours to build
for about 1100 sq.ft. 

How are you planning to find the construction? Most banks will not fund a
construction loan only if the project is built by a construction company
with required licenses & insurance.  

I'll be glad to discuss any other points you are concerned about. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Jul 27, 2016, at 7:44 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

I'm toying with doing this, mostly myself. I've done a few big projects like
dormers, full remodels, so I'm not green. I'm mostly curious in what you
thought about the experience and the result, and would you do it again. I
have read Norm Abrahms' book (which is a fun read if you haven't) as well as
House by Tracy Kidder. 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com

_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/al@bighealey.org



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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 12:58:08 -0400
References: <579A86BC.708@snet.net>
 <CANuE7YDA07+7hF8UtaScK+XyS2XYMofpNBTpC4a4cfJmKNhPAg@mail.gmail.com>
To: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding v. Rivets
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============3003162221014910324==
	boundary=Apple-Mail-18BDD2D5-58D7-419E-B0FC-A2393FE1F369
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--Apple-Mail-18BDD2D5-58D7-419E-B0FC-A2393FE1F369
	charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I thought of that but it comes down to selecting the lesser of evils. The pu=
re rust I found in the rails was extensive for a 9 year old truck. The quest=
ion is whether the galvanic corrosion would be worse. =46rom the appearance o=
f what I found on the truck it's hard to imagine worse.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2016, at 11:13 AM, John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> Aluminum rivets in steel are a bad idea.  Unless something is done to perm=
anently coat the surfaces where the tow materials interface, there will be g=
alvanic corrosion.  Just encapsulating the completed joint is not sufficient=
, you have to make sure that the expanded portion of the rivet in the hole n=
ever touches the steel base material.  I have seen this done with highly spe=
cialized rivets with some sort of interface collar, but I don't think plain a=
ircraft aluminum rivets will work.
>=20
>> On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 5:27 PM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote=
:
>> I am replacing the support rails for the bed of my 2007 F250.  (I thought=
 about a bed replacement but it seems the rails are the only rotten parts.  N=
O RUST in the fender wells!)
>>=20
>> Once the old rails are removed, my plan was to rosette-weld in the new on=
es.  But, I have the ability to use aircraft rivets, probably 3/16" size.  I=
f I do this, I can seal the entire junction with silicone, as I've done in m=
y FFR Roadster. Welding will leave a place for corrosion, but would the expo=
sure be better or worse with the dissimilar metal of the rivets, aluminum v.=
 steel?
>> _______________________________________________
>>=20
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinn=
is@gmail.com
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> =3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
> =3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--Apple-Mail-18BDD2D5-58D7-419E-B0FC-A2393FE1F369
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I thought of that but it comes down to=
 selecting the lesser of evils. The pure rust I found in the rails was exten=
sive for a 9 year old truck. The question is whether the galvanic corrosion w=
ould be worse. =46rom the appearance of what I found on the truck it's hard t=
o imagine worse.<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Aug 3, 2016, at=
 11:13 AM, John Innis &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jdinnis@gmail.com">jdinnis@gmail=
.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Aluminum rivets in steel are a bad idea.&nbsp; Unless something is done=
 to permanently coat the surfaces where the tow materials interface, there w=
ill be galvanic corrosion.&nbsp; Just encapsulating the completed joint is n=
ot sufficient, you have to make sure that the expanded portion of the rivet i=
n the hole never touches the steel base material.&nbsp; I have seen this don=
e with highly specialized rivets with some sort of interface collar, but I d=
on't think plain aircraft aluminum rivets will work.<br></div><div class=3D"=
gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 5:27 PM,=
 Jim Juhas <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:james.f.juhas@snet.net" t=
arget=3D"_blank">james.f.juhas@snet.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid=
;padding-left:1ex">I am replacing the support rails for the bed of my 2007 F2=
50.&nbsp; (I thought about a bed replacement but it seems the rails are the o=
nly rotten parts.&nbsp; NO RUST in the fender wells!)<br>
<br>
Once the old rails are removed, my plan was to rosette-weld in the new ones.=
&nbsp; But, I have the ability to use aircraft rivets, probably 3/16" size.&=
nbsp; If I do this, I can seal the entire junction with silicone, as I've do=
ne in my FFR Roadster. Welding will leave a place for corrosion, but would t=
he exposure be better or worse with the dissimilar metal of the rivets, alum=
inum v. steel?<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@auto=
x.team.net</a><br>
t=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
lk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail_sign=
ature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never=
 offend people with style when you&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D<br>=3D can offend with su=
bstance --- Sam Brown&nbsp; =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
</div>
</div></blockquote></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  3 21:39:28 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, jamesf@groupwbench.org
References: <mailman.11.1469988003.22966.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 11:06:55 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Have you built your own house?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I built mine about 10 years ago.  It was a wonderful experience for me 
and my family and we love our home. And I'd do it again in a heartbeat 
(except one seems to be plenty for us).

We designed it with an architect to take advantage of our site's views; 
I'm in rural West Sonoma County.

The permitting process was fairly straightforward (though expensive). 
County inspectors were great to work with and helpful (different than 
what I've heard from many other people so I think attitude might be 
important here. . .).
Our county permit folks put out a great residential construction manual 
noting most of the local code requirements.  It was very helpful.  If 
you can get something like that I recommend it.  If not: this one is 
probably generic enough to be useful; let me know and I can get you 
one.  I also bought a copy of the national electrical code book.  Also 
very useful.

I subbed out the foundation  as it was complicated (pier [57 at 14 feet 
deep] and grade beams)
Hired a small crew to assist me and we framed it to weather tight (took 
about 2 months).
I did all the plumbing, electrical, and assorted rough and finish carpentry.
Subbed the insulation (hate that)
Subbed the septic.
Subbed the sheetrock (hate that too)
Bought cabinetry for kitchen and baths
Subbed tile

I did it full time and it took 13 months from ground breaking to move 
in.  Final completion took - well, it's not quite done but to 98% was 
another 6-12 months (depends on whether you ask me or my wife).

Did I make mistakes in design and construction? Absolutely.  Were they 
all able to be worked around? Also yes.
One of the big advantages of doing it yourself is that you can do it so 
you can maintain it and also do the little things that you want but no 
one else would.  I've got shutoff valves under the house for each water 
zone (kitchen, baths, laundry) so I can turn them off separately and 
cleanouts on all drains at each bend.  Cost no more than $200-300 extra 
in parts. Way way more electrical outlets separated into more circuits 
than necessary.
Placed the electrical box under the kitchen so it was simple to have 
lots of breakers feed the space.

Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com

] Have you built your own house?
> I'm toying with doing this, mostly myself. I've done a few big projects like dormers, full remodels, so I'm not green. I'm mostly curious in what you thought about the experience and the result, and would you do it again. I have read Norm Abrahms' book (which is a fun read if you haven't) as well as House by Tracy Kidder.
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  3 23:06:03 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 14:17:24 -0400
 08/03/2016 14:17:32, Serialize complete at 08/03/2016 14:17:32
Subject: [Shop-talk] Eaton Compressors (follow up)
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============7594968299034448233==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0067A75885258004_=

A few months ago, I purchased an Eaton Polar Compressor.  The price was 
very competitive for it's performance specs.

There is some talk about the pump not being American made, but all other 
components are made in USA.  In fact, they put a sticker on each part that 
is US made.

The compressor has been great, until I noticed a leak I THOUGHT was coming 
from the continuous run valve. 

I removed that plumbing and just plugged the hole.

There is still a leak there.  The leak is between the bung and the tank. 
(and it was a US made tank.)

I contacted the company and they are sending me a completely new unit! 

I just wanted to let you all know the experience I am having with them as 
there was lots of back and forth about this companies reputation.

I highly recommend them and would have bought my next compressor from 
them, but this current compressor will outlast me. 8>)


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0067A75885258004_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">A few months ago, I purchased an Eaton
Polar Compressor. &nbsp;The price was very competitive for it's performance
specs.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
There is some talk about the pump not being American made, but all other
components are made in USA. &nbsp;In fact, they put a sticker on each part
that is US made.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">The compressor has been great, until
I noticed a leak I THOUGHT was coming from the continuous run valve. &nbsp;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I removed that plumbing and just plugged
the hole.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">There is still a leak there. &nbsp;The
leak is between the bung and the tank. &nbsp;(and it was a US made tank.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I contacted the company and they are
sending me a completely new unit! &nbsp;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I just wanted to let you all know the
experience I am having with them as there was lots of back and forth about
this companies reputation.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I highly recommend them and would have
bought my next compressor from them, but this current compressor will outlast
me. 8&gt;)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  4 06:12:44 2016
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References: <mailman.11.1469988003.22966.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <64ba99f0-42a7-0a6b-3feb-b8c95199064d@threeboysfarm.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 22:05:09 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Have you built your own house?
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FYI - The residential construction manual is online at
http://www.sonoma-county.org/PRMD/docs/rcm/index.htm
It appears to be a popular Google entry as Google's guess popped up 
Sonoma County for me.  It looks like a handy resource.

At one point I had an interest in renovating a house, but don't think 
I'm up for it anymore.  I'm down to a few final finish items on a 
complete gut job of two bathrooms.   If you have kids with activities, 
devoting all that time to building a house may be a challenge.  I guess 
it depends on how understanding your wife is.

A lot depends on how good you are with building codes.  I read a bunch 
and electrical comes easy to me, so had no issues with electrical.  In 
the interest of time, I hired a plumber to do all the rough plumbing.  
They had all the fittings in their well stocked trucks.  I would have 
multiple trips to the store then lots of leftover parts.  I would have 
also done it the way it was then had to fix things that didn't pass 
code.  An example is the vanity drains.  Code here (Los Angeles area) 
requires a separate cleanout for each drain.  I would have left out the 
cleanout because I'm used to just undoing the trap and sending the snake 
down that opening.

Homeowners also have less pull with specialized trades when you want to 
get them in.  My bathrooms were slowed for a month while I tried to get 
a drywall contractor.  I had a wonderful contractor I used previously, 
but his team was fully booked on a condo complex and couldn't help.  I 
found a guy through a real estate agent, but this guy knew I was a one 
time job and jacked the price and did sloppy work.  With a builder, they 
know if they do a good job at a fair price, they will get more work.

If I won the lotto and didn't have a job and kids with activities, I'm 
sure I'd take on more big projects.  It is all a balancing act.

If you can find a contractor that will work with you and come in as 
needed, that might be something to consider.  In 2012, I replaced a 
balcony that went the length of the house.  Because it was cantilevered, 
I had to take out my entire downstairs ceiling.  I paid by the day and 
it work out really well.  His contacts got me a great deal on a trash 
hauler and the good drywall guy.  There are also lots of times you 
really want a crew - framing and roofing for example.  You can't safely 
lift a wall yourself and roofing is just hard work where you can get hurt.

Brian

On 8/3/2016 11:06 AM, Mark Miller wrote:
> I built mine about 10 years ago.  It was a wonderful experience for me 
> and my family and we love our home. And I'd do it again in a heartbeat 
> (except one seems to be plenty for us).
>
> We designed it with an architect to take advantage of our site's 
> views; I'm in rural West Sonoma County.
>
> The permitting process was fairly straightforward (though expensive). 
> County inspectors were great to work with and helpful (different than 
> what I've heard from many other people so I think attitude might be 
> important here. . .).
> Our county permit folks put out a great residential construction 
> manual noting most of the local code requirements.  It was very 
> helpful.  If you can get something like that I recommend it.  If not: 
> this one is probably generic enough to be useful; let me know and I 
> can get you one.  I also bought a copy of the national electrical code 
> book.  Also very useful.
>
> I subbed out the foundation  as it was complicated (pier [57 at 14 
> feet deep] and grade beams)
> Hired a small crew to assist me and we framed it to weather tight 
> (took about 2 months).
> I did all the plumbing, electrical, and assorted rough and finish 
> carpentry.
> Subbed the insulation (hate that)
> Subbed the septic.
> Subbed the sheetrock (hate that too)
> Bought cabinetry for kitchen and baths
> Subbed tile
>
> I did it full time and it took 13 months from ground breaking to move 
> in.  Final completion took - well, it's not quite done but to 98% was 
> another 6-12 months (depends on whether you ask me or my wife).
>
> Did I make mistakes in design and construction? Absolutely.  Were they 
> all able to be worked around? Also yes.
> One of the big advantages of doing it yourself is that you can do it 
> so you can maintain it and also do the little things that you want but 
> no one else would.  I've got shutoff valves under the house for each 
> water zone (kitchen, baths, laundry) so I can turn them off separately 
> and cleanouts on all drains at each bend. Cost no more than $200-300 
> extra in parts. Way way more electrical outlets separated into more 
> circuits than necessary.
> Placed the electrical box under the kitchen so it was simple to have 
> lots of breakers feed the space.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Miller
> markmiller@threeboysfarm.com
>
> ] Have you built your own house?
>> I'm toying with doing this, mostly myself. I've done a few big 
>> projects like dormers, full remodels, so I'm not green. I'm mostly 
>> curious in what you thought about the experience and the result, and 
>> would you do it again. I have read Norm Abrahms' book (which is a fun 
>> read if you haven't) as well as House by Tracy Kidder.
>>
>> thanks,
>> jim
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  5 22:11:06 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2016 17:06:31 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] ford 3.0L v-6 water pump heater hose fitting
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>> the question... is there another way to seal this metal fitting
>> permanently instead of the cap that deteriorates ??  something plastic
>> or metal that can stand the heat and vibration and not leak  I=92m about
>> ready to drive a wooden plug in it !!!  somebody has got to make
>> something that will work...

I don't know the EXACT configuration of the engine/pump you're talking =

about, but you ought to be able to grab that tube with some vise grips, =

dump some PB Blaster on it and wiggle it out, then tap the hole for a =

3/8NPT or whatever pipe plug.

I've done that on various castings of similar configuration.

John.

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From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 10:38:42 -0400
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Small wood chipper recommendations?
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Tangentially shop/garage-related in that I'll have to store it in my 
garage... :)  I'm in the market for a small wood chipper and floor space 
in my garage is fairly limited so something with the footprint of a 
pressure washer or small snowblower (or smaller) would be ideal.


I'm not opposed to an electric model if they perform well but the 
youtube videos I've seen tend to show them chewing on finger-sized twigs 
fed one at a time.  I've also read they often clog when fed green 
material and when the knives dull.

I haven't seen many compact gas-powered chippers come across Craigslist. 
  I'm not opposed to disassembling the chutes for storage though my 
first choice would be to find one that doesn't have big horizontal 
chutes to begin with.

So a few questions for the group:

1) If you have an electric wood chipper, how well does it work on 
branches up to, say, an 1-1.5 inch diameter?  I figure anything bigger 
I'll just cut manually but if the real-world limits are 1/2-inch with 
only an occasional branch larger than 1-inch, then perhaps I should 
abandon the electric idea.  Are the reports of frequent clogging true?

2) If you have a small gas chipper, how big is the engine?  I've seen a 
couple on Craigslist with smallish 3.5hp engines though most seem to be 
in the 8-11hp range.  Roughly, what's the storage footprint?

Thanks!

Jimmie
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  8 16:10:25 2016
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To: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <ef9bb1b9-61ed-be89-effa-5ada8f9e69fc@sackheads.org>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 11:51:01 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Small wood chipper recommendations?
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Finally something I know a little about.  I'm not an expert but I have 
had a couple of them.

I have never used an electric chipper, but I would imagine they are 
probably like an electric chainsaw- slow, frustrating and not capable of 
very much useful work.  Unless it has a 240 volt, 5 HP or bigger motor, 
I would  not even consider one.

I have used and owned a couple of 7.5 HP gas chippers.  They are big, 
noisy, dangerous and are still easily clogged up unless you're careful 
in how you feed them.  Leaves, unless they are very, very dry, are 
impossible to grind up.  Twigs and brush are not too bad, but they have 
to be fed into the hopper and forced into the chipping head and usually 
you end up having to use a fairly large branch to push stuff into the 
throat to get it to feed.  I ground up at least two rake handles before 
I started using long branches to feed the shredder hopper.  As for 
chipping, as long as the branches are green, or not too big they work 
reasonably well on stuff up to about 2 to 2.5 inches depending on the 
species; dried branches of any size take much longer.  Smaller branches 
can often be fed in bundles. Feeding in large branches is slow and hard 
on the hands and the limbs vibrate like crazy when you're forcing them 
into the cutter head.  Based on my experience, I wouldn't even consider 
any chipper under 7 HP, and 10 or more would be better.  I have always 
stored mine outdoors in the tractor shed.

Right now I own a PTO driven chipper.  Imagine the biggest homeowner 
type chipper, only with a PTO instead of a motor.  It works OK, but it's 
still relatively slow to grind up larger dried branches, like douglas 
fir or cedar branches that have dried for a year or so. It's hell on 
alder, though, and anything under 2" unless it like a hickory axe handle.

What do I do these days?  I haven't had the chipper hooked up to the 
tractor for several years.  What I do is wait until I have a decent 
sized pile of brush and small limbs to deal with, and then I run over it 
a couple of times with the brush hog.  Done.  The last couple of times I 
took an evergreen down and needed to deal with the limbs, I went to the 
rental yard and rented a big self feeding chipper.

Chippers are like wood splitters (and I have one of those, too; want to 
buy it?)  They're something you only use once or twice a year, and 
otherwise you have to maintain and store them.  They're better off 
rented unless you have a large piece of property and are dealing with a 
lot of brush and limbs.  I've been on 5 to 7 acres of Pacific northwest 
wooded property for the last 30 years and my chippers have gotten a 
reasonable amount of work, but knowing what I know now I'm not sure I 
would get one if I was starting out again.

Let me know if I missed anything or if you have more specific questions.



On 8/8/2016 7:38 AM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:
> Tangentially shop/garage-related in that I'll have to store it in my 
> garage... :)  I'm in the market for a small wood chipper and floor 
> space in my garage is fairly limited so something with the footprint 
> of a pressure washer or small snowblower (or smaller) would be ideal.
>
>
> I'm not opposed to an electric model if they perform well but the 
> youtube videos I've seen tend to show them chewing on finger-sized 
> twigs fed one at a time.  I've also read they often clog when fed 
> green material and when the knives dull.
>
> I haven't seen many compact gas-powered chippers come across 
> Craigslist.  I'm not opposed to disassembling the chutes for storage 
> though my first choice would be to find one that doesn't have big 
> horizontal chutes to begin with.
>
> So a few questions for the group:
>
> 1) If you have an electric wood chipper, how well does it work on 
> branches up to, say, an 1-1.5 inch diameter?  I figure anything bigger 
> I'll just cut manually but if the real-world limits are 1/2-inch with 
> only an occasional branch larger than 1-inch, then perhaps I should 
> abandon the electric idea.  Are the reports of frequent clogging true?
>
> 2) If you have a small gas chipper, how big is the engine?  I've seen 
> a couple on Craigslist with smallish 3.5hp engines though most seem to 
> be in the 8-11hp range.  Roughly, what's the storage footprint?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jimmie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>


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From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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 [128.111.216.187]:40836
Subject: [Shop-talk] turning the end of a bolt.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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  I have a 1/2" bolt that I need to do 2 things to the end of the bolt.  
I need to drill a .125 hole in the middle for about a half-inch and turn 
the end down to .39, the bolt itself is 2.5 long and 1/2" diameter.

  I tried chucking it up in my 3 jaw chuck and I can't get tightened 
down without wobbling all over and the hole I need to drill would not 
end up in the middle of the bolt, also the turned down part would never 
be right.  I have tried quite a few different things to get tightened 
down without wobbling all without success.  The lathe (shoptask 
bridgemill) came with a 4 jaw chuck that i never installed, would that 
help ?  I am at the point where I am thinking of cutting off the bolt 
head, doing the machining and then welding the bolt head back on.

  This is non-critical part, so not worried about strength, just needs 
to be finger tight when installed but that .39 x .450 long machined end  
with the hold is critical to fit.

  I am NOT a machinist by any stretch of the imagination, I bought this 
shoptask 5 years ago and only used it once so far, I had a old sherline 
mini lathe that was way under powered for what I did with it and I used 
a lot so I decided with a bigger lathe I would get to do more things...I 
was wrong.  I don't know what I am doing and sometimes too scared to try 
and mess up my parts.

  But I am getting to the point in my current project where I can see 
use for this thing.  I have a plate that I need to mill down and instead 
of taking it to a shop to have it done, I am going to try it on my own, 
its just a carburetor spacer, nothing critical measurement wise.  If I 
mess it up, its only a $20 part that I can buy, so I will try it out.

  Once I get past this bolt thing...

     mike


-- 
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
you'll probably never need one again.

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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2016 17:19:41 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).

Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?
For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.
Thanks for any thoughts

Bob Nogueira 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  8 20:34:29 2016
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2016 18:07:41 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).

Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?
For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.
Thanks for any thoughts

Bob Nogueira


Bob Nogueira 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  8 22:56:08 2016
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To: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 20:30:14 -0400
 2013) at 08/08/2016 08:30:27 PM,
 Serialize complete at 08/08/2016 08:30:27 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Small wood chipper recommendations?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============5073684026444423203==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0002C5488525800A_=

Jimmie,

My advise is to no waste you time/money on the little ones.  They are good 
for mulching leaves and that is about it.

You can brake the branches faster than they will 'chip' them.

Around here, there is always people putting those things on the curb after 
only using them once or twice.

Unless the machine has an autofeed and an MASSIVE flywheel, they aren't 
worth it.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
----- Forwarded by Eric Petrevich/Megageek on 08/08/2016 08:28 PM -----

From:   Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
To:     shop-talk@autox.team.net
Date:   08/08/2016 11:35 AM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] Small wood chipper recommendations?
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>



Tangentially shop/garage-related in that I'll have to store it in my 
garage... :)  I'm in the market for a small wood chipper and floor space 
in my garage is fairly limited so something with the footprint of a 
pressure washer or small snowblower (or smaller) would be ideal.


I'm not opposed to an electric model if they perform well but the 
youtube videos I've seen tend to show them chewing on finger-sized twigs 
fed one at a time.  I've also read they often clog when fed green 
material and when the knives dull.

I haven't seen many compact gas-powered chippers come across Craigslist. 
  I'm not opposed to disassembling the chutes for storage though my 
first choice would be to find one that doesn't have big horizontal 
chutes to begin with.

So a few questions for the group:

1) If you have an electric wood chipper, how well does it work on 
branches up to, say, an 1-1.5 inch diameter?  I figure anything bigger 
I'll just cut manually but if the real-world limits are 1/2-inch with 
only an occasional branch larger than 1-inch, then perhaps I should 
abandon the electric idea.  Are the reports of frequent clogging true?

2) If you have a small gas chipper, how big is the engine?  I've seen a 
couple on Craigslist with smallish 3.5hp engines though most seem to be 
in the 8-11hp range.  Roughly, what's the storage footprint?

Thanks!

Jimmie
_______________________________________________


--=_alternative 0002C5488525800A_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Jimmie,</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">My advise is to no waste you time/money
on the little ones. &nbsp;They are good for mulching leaves and that is
about it.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">You can brake the branches faster than
they will 'chip' them.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Around here, there is always people
putting those things on the curb after only using them once or twice.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Unless the machine has an autofeed and
an MASSIVE flywheel, they aren't worth it.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
<br><font size=1 color=#800080 face="sans-serif">----- Forwarded by Eric
Petrevich/Megageek on 08/08/2016 08:28 PM -----</font>
<br>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">From: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Jimmie Mayfield &lt;mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org&gt;</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">To: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">shop-talk@autox.team.net</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Date: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">08/08/2016 11:35 AM</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Subject: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">[Shop-talk]
Small wood chipper recommendations?</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Sent by: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">&quot;Shop-talk&quot;
&lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt;</font>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><tt><font size=2>Tangentially shop/garage-related in that I'll have
to store it in my <br>
garage... :) &nbsp;I'm in the market for a small wood chipper and floor
space <br>
in my garage is fairly limited so something with the footprint of a <br>
pressure washer or small snowblower (or smaller) would be ideal.<br>
<br>
<br>
I'm not opposed to an electric model if they perform well but the <br>
youtube videos I've seen tend to show them chewing on finger-sized twigs
<br>
fed one at a time. &nbsp;I've also read they often clog when fed green
<br>
material and when the knives dull.<br>
<br>
I haven't seen many compact gas-powered chippers come across Craigslist.
<br>
 &nbsp;I'm not opposed to disassembling the chutes for storage though my
<br>
first choice would be to find one that doesn't have big horizontal <br>
chutes to begin with.<br>
<br>
So a few questions for the group:<br>
<br>
1) If you have an electric wood chipper, how well does it work on <br>
branches up to, say, an 1-1.5 inch diameter? &nbsp;I figure anything bigger
<br>
I'll just cut manually but if the real-world limits are 1/2-inch with <br>
only an occasional branch larger than 1-inch, then perhaps I should <br>
abandon the electric idea. &nbsp;Are the reports of frequent clogging true?<br>
<br>
2) If you have a small gas chipper, how big is the engine? &nbsp;I've seen
a <br>
couple on Craigslist with smallish 3.5hp engines though most seem to be
<br>
in the 8-11hp range. &nbsp;Roughly, what's the storage footprint?<br>
<br>
Thanks!<br>
<br>
Jimmie<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
</font></tt>
--=_alternative 0002C5488525800A_=--

--===============5073684026444423203==
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Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5073684026444423203==--

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Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2016 20:00:26 -0500
From: greg <greg@gelhar.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] turning the end of a bolt.
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To: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <68cd270c-ec4c-109a-2901-4d94f90387d0@dinospider.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 18:23:35 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] turning the end of a bolt.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Put another nut (or two) the the same size as the bolt head on the 
threaded portion, run it down to the bottom of the threads, align all 
the flat faces and put it in the chuck.  It'll be straight enough.  The 
nut or nuts don't need to be tight, they are just there for alignment in 
the jaws.

On 8/8/2016 1:25 PM, Mike Rambour wrote:
>  I have a 1/2" bolt that I need to do 2 things to the end of the 
> bolt.  I need to drill a .125 hole in the middle for about a half-inch 
> and turn the end down to .39, the bolt itself is 2.5 long and 1/2" 
> diameter.
>
>  I tried chucking it up in my 3 jaw chuck and I can't get tightened 
> down without wobbling all over and the hole I need to drill would not 
> end up in the middle of the bolt, also the turned down part would 
> never be right.  I have tried quite a few different things to get 
> tightened down without wobbling all without success.  The lathe 
> (shoptask bridgemill) came with a 4 jaw chuck that i never installed, 
> would that help ?  I am at the point where I am thinking of cutting 
> off the bolt head, doing the machining and then welding the bolt head 
> back on.
>
>  This is non-critical part, so not worried about strength, just needs 
> to be finger tight when installed but that .39 x .450 long machined 
> end  with the hold is critical to fit.
>
>  I am NOT a machinist by any stretch of the imagination, I bought this 
> shoptask 5 years ago and only used it once so far, I had a old 
> sherline mini lathe that was way under powered for what I did with it 
> and I used a lot so I decided with a bigger lathe I would get to do 
> more things...I was wrong.  I don't know what I am doing and sometimes 
> too scared to try and mess up my parts.
>
>  But I am getting to the point in my current project where I can see 
> use for this thing.  I have a plate that I need to mill down and 
> instead of taking it to a shop to have it done, I am going to try it 
> on my own, its just a carburetor spacer, nothing critical measurement 
> wise.  If I mess it up, its only a $20 part that I can buy, so I will 
> try it out.
>
>  Once I get past this bolt thing...
>
>     mike
>
>


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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 22:52:09 -0400
References: <90DF6BA9-2E80-4A04-B1E7-0D3DA35405C5@icloud.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1367991974902366946==


--Apple-Mail=_0921E63F-D870-4760-8747-31B313FDC1D5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

I can't say for sure, but I'd imagine yes. However. what about shading =
the unit from the sun first?

jim

On Aug 8, 2016, at 7:07 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com> wrote:

> Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the =
evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to =
continue to cool?
> For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of =
wiring and installing a larger unit.


--Apple-Mail=_0921E63F-D870-4760-8747-31B313FDC1D5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;">I =
can't say for sure, but I'd imagine yes. However. what about shading the =
unit from the sun =
first?<div><br></div><div>jim</div><div><br><div><div>On Aug 8, 2016, at =
7:07 PM, Robert nogueira &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:nogera@icloud.com">nogera@icloud.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;">Question: would installing a fine =
water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the =
compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?</span><br =
style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; =
font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; =
orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: =
none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; display: inline =
!important;">For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the =
cost of wiring and installing a larger =
unit.</span></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2016 23:28:52 -0400
To: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <Uqkf1t00e0NyJgq01qkg83>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5307768409322373113==
	boundary="=====================_55427560==.ALT"

--=====================_55427560==.ALT

At 07:07 PM 8/8/2016, Robert nogueira wrote:

 >I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good
 >job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) 
it is having a
 >problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in 
mid afternoon (
 >unit gets full sun).
 >
 >Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the 
evaporator coil
 >easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?

Bob,

Yes, a water spray would help but pulling some of the added sun heat 
load off by
allowing the water to evaporate.  So anything from one of the garden hoses with
holes in it, to a spray nozzle on a stick would help.

Let us know how it works out.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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--=====================_55427560==.ALT

<html>
<body>
<font size=3>At 07:07 PM 8/8/2016, Robert nogueira wrote:<br><br>
&gt;I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a
pretty good<br>
&gt;job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it
is having a <br>
&gt;problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid
afternoon ( <br>
&gt;unit gets full sun).<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the
evaporator coil <br>
&gt;easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to
cool?<br><br>
Bob,<br><br>
Yes, a water spray would help but pulling some of the added sun heat load
off by<br>
allowing the water to evaporate.&nbsp; So anything from one of the garden
hoses with<br>
holes in it, to a spray nozzle on a stick would help.<br><br>
Let us know how it works out.<br><br>
John<br><br>
</font>
<br /><br />
<hr style='border:none; color:#909090; background-color:#B0B0B0; height: 1px; width: 99%;' />
<table style='border-collapse:collapse;border:none;'>
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				This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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</table>
<br />
</body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/www/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  9 01:24:31 2016
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Robert nogueira" <nogera@me.com>,
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <C15CAE35-D235-41C0-9696-94B2D81ACDE7@me.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 20:57:59 -0700
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============1359663716337781703==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_007D_01D1F1B7.8BD471C0"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_007D_01D1F1B7.8BD471C0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

GEnerally not a good idea.  All you=E2=80=99re ding spraying mineral =
filled=20
water on the coil, which when the water dries, leaves behind a=20
mineral (scale) build up.  Scale is one of the best insulators and=20
will do nothing but inhibit the cooling.  If you say, but we have=20
very soft water (i.e. little or no minerals), while that may be true,=20
then you have a low pH water (acidic) and the coil fins will be soon=20
eaten away.  No win, either way.
The best thing you can do is make absolutely sure that coils in your=20
system are CLEAN.  Remove all dirt, fuzzies, leaves, obstructions, etc.
that can and will restrict the designed cooling.
Good luck.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
(27 years experience industrial/commercial water treatment)


From: Robert nogueira=20
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 3:19 PM
To: Shop-talk=20
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner

I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty =
good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) =
it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour =
or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).

Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the =
evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to =
continue to cool?
For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring =
and installing a larger unit.
Thanks for any thoughts

Bob Nogueira=20
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




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Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4633/12778 - Release Date: =
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>GEnerally not a good idea.&nbsp; All you=E2=80=99re ding spraying =
mineral filled=20
</DIV>
<DIV>water on the coil, which when the water dries, leaves behind a =
</DIV>
<DIV>mineral (scale) build up.&nbsp; Scale is one of the best insulators =
and=20
</DIV>
<DIV>will do nothing but inhibit the cooling.&nbsp; If you say, but we =
have=20
</DIV>
<DIV>very soft water (i.e. little or no minerals), while that may be =
true,=20
</DIV>
<DIV>then you have a low pH water (acidic) and the coil fins will be =
soon </DIV>
<DIV>eaten away.&nbsp; No win, either way.</DIV>
<DIV>The best thing you can do is make absolutely sure that coils in =
your </DIV>
<DIV>system are CLEAN.&nbsp; Remove all dirt, fuzzies, leaves, =
obstructions,=20
etc.</DIV>
<DIV>that can and will restrict the designed cooling.</DIV>
<DIV>Good luck.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA USA</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">(27 years=20
experience industrial/commercial water treatment)</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=3Dnogera@me.com=20
href=3D"mailto:nogera@me.com">Robert nogueira</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 08, 2016 3:19 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dshop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air=20
conditioner</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>I've=20
got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good =
job of=20
cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having =
a=20
problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid =
afternoon=20
( unit gets full sun).<BR><BR>Question: would installing a fine water =
mist=20
sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus =
allowing=20
it to continue to cool?<BR>For the few weeks I have this problem it is =
not worth=20
the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.<BR>Thanks for any=20
thoughts<BR><BR>Bob Nogueira=20
<BR>_______________________________________________<BR><BR>Shop-talk@auto=
x.team.net<BR>Donate:=20
$12.96<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
http://www.team.net/forums<BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com<BR><BR=
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2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4633/12778 - Release Date:=20
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  9 01:43:28 2016
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To: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <ef9bb1b9-61ed-be89-effa-5ada8f9e69fc@sackheads.org>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2016 23:14:08 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Small wood chipper recommendations?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I have both gas and electric.  I started with the electric chipper - a 
previous model from a Harbor Freight parking lot sale.  It only works on 
straight branches and don't expect anything over an inch. It is also 
slow.  We have green waste collection out here and it is generally 
faster for me to cut the branches into 3' long lengths and put they in 
the collection bins.  I don't think I'll ever use the electric model again.

I have lots of hibiscus trees, which fortunately have long straight 
branches and are relatively soft.  They are also leafy.  With fresh cut 
branches, the thing clogged like crazy.  I found I had to let the 
branches sit for 3-4 days so the leaves dried out to avoid frequent 
clogs.  You don't want to wait too long or the branches get harder to chip.

A few years ago I lucked into a Craftsman 5.5hp chipper/shredder at a 
yard sale.  It didn't run, but the price was great.  I replaced the fuel 
shutoff and supply lines then rebuilt the carb and a few other things 
and now it works wonderfully.  The gas model is so much better, though 
I'd say this is the minimum hp.  It says it has a 3" capacity, but those 
have to be very straight branches.  The thing probably weighs about 70 
pounds, much of it flywheel.  With the chute, this model is about 2.5' 
high x 2' wide x 5' long.  The chute drops down to the ground so you can 
rake leaves into it.  I currently store it under a tarp in the backyard 
because my garage is up 32 stairs from the back yard and this thing is 
heavy.  This model takes up to 1" down the shredder chute, but 
practically, about 3/4" is a better limit.  Anything over 3/4" needs to 
go down the chipper chute.  It is so much better than the electric.

I have a giant bougainvillea hedge.  You can't chip those branches 
because they curve all over the place.  Those just get cut in small 
lengths and put in the green waste.  You have to take into account what 
you are cutting.

Tips:

- Let the branches with wet leaves sit a few days so the leaves dry 
out.  This isn't that important with the gas model, but is a necessity 
with the electric to avoid clogging.

- When you cut the branches, try and keep the segments straight.  If 
there is a bend, cut the branch there when you are lopping or sawing.

- Save a few of the nice straight branches to push the small bendy ones 
through the shredder.

- Don't over feed the machine.  It will just clog or jam.  Save a branch 
like a short broom stick for clearing jams.  Even with the machine off, 
you don't want to touch the blades with your fingers. You may need to 
pry the flywheel back to clear a jam, so the good branch is nice.

- Save something without leaves for the end to help clean out the machine.

- The logical way to feed is to start with the big end of the branch, 
but then if the machine isn't feeding well, you are stuck with a bunch 
of small things in the chute.  If you can stick the small end first, you 
can push the big end of the branch and send it all down the chute.

- Really hard dead branches just bounce off the blades and may be too 
much for even a 5.5hp gas chipper.

If you only have an occasion need, it might be best to just rent a 
decent chipper so you don't need to store it.  I know most of the people 
on this list want more tools, but you have to store them and lack of 
storage space is another reason the chipper/shredder lives in the 
backyard instead of the garage.  You might also be better off just 
putting all your cuttings in a pile and having someone else come and 
haul it away.  I did this shortly after moving in and doing lots of 
brush clearance.  It cost me $200 to have two guys fill a rack body 
truck of brush and haul it away.  As I get older and have more time 
demands with the family, I'm focusing more on working smarter.

Another source in addition to Craig's list are local lawn equipment 
dealers with service centers.  They might get a trade or something that 
just needed a little work to make it good.

Brian

On 8/8/2016 7:38 AM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:
> Tangentially shop/garage-related in that I'll have to store it in my 
> garage... :)  I'm in the market for a small wood chipper and floor 
> space in my garage is fairly limited so something with the footprint 
> of a pressure washer or small snowblower (or smaller) would be ideal.
>
>
> I'm not opposed to an electric model if they perform well but the 
> youtube videos I've seen tend to show them chewing on finger-sized 
> twigs fed one at a time.  I've also read they often clog when fed 
> green material and when the knives dull.
>
> I haven't seen many compact gas-powered chippers come across 
> Craigslist.  I'm not opposed to disassembling the chutes for storage 
> though my first choice would be to find one that doesn't have big 
> horizontal chutes to begin with.
>
> So a few questions for the group:
>
> 1) If you have an electric wood chipper, how well does it work on 
> branches up to, say, an 1-1.5 inch diameter?  I figure anything bigger 
> I'll just cut manually but if the real-world limits are 1/2-inch with 
> only an occasional branch larger than 1-inch, then perhaps I should 
> abandon the electric idea.  Are the reports of frequent clogging true?
>
> 2) If you have a small gas chipper, how big is the engine?  I've seen 
> a couple on Craigslist with smallish 3.5hp engines though most seem to 
> be in the 8-11hp range.  Roughly, what's the storage footprint?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jimmie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>
>

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References: <ef9bb1b9-61ed-be89-effa-5ada8f9e69fc@sackheads.org>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 08:04:27 -0400
To: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Small wood chipper recommendations?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 10:38 AM, Jimmie Mayfield
<mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org> wrote:
> 2) If you have a small gas chipper, how big is the engine?  I've seen a
> couple on Craigslist with smallish 3.5hp engines though most seem to be in
> the 8-11hp range.  Roughly, what's the storage footprint?

This is similar to the one I have:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-leafwacker-trade-3-way-chipper-shredder-50-states/p-07177605000P

Mine doesn't have the bag for the discharge.

I have a lot of trees on my property...3 acres of oak, mostly.  When
we moved in, we spent hours every fall moving fallen leaves around -
even worse, because the previous owner apparently never owned a rake.
I thought a shredder was just what I needed...found this one at Sears.
It said it was used, but you couldn't tell the difference between it
and the new one sitting next to it, except the price was half of the
new one.

It's heavy - and I think the flywheel is heavier than the motor.  That
may be the key to a good chipper - one that has enough inertia to keep
going when it hits a hard spot.  As long as leaves are dry, it's
great.  Drop the chute, and rake the piles right into the machine and
poof! they disappear.  Small limbs are no problem, larger ones take a
little more time, but still get eaten.  And yes, I chewed up a rake
handle clearing clogs.  The major design flaw is the limb chute - it's
long and has a kink in it (probably so you don't stick an arm down it)
but that makes it difficult to put some stuff down it.  I've thought
about removing this "feature", but the safety aspect worries me.  I've
had bad experience with missing safety features...

What I found, though, is that once I dealt with the backlog of leaves,
I only run the thing three or four hours a year to keep up.  Our
county has a leaf and limb service, so what limbs we don't drag off
into the woods or grind up while I'm running the machine get put on
the curb for pickup.  Now that I've got the thing, I'll use it.  But I
don't know that I'd replace  it.

Dimension wise, it's maybe 3 to 3.5 feet wide, and 4 or 5 feet long.
Not tiny...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 08:05:29 -0400
To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Can you install a temporary shade over it?

On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 6:19 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com> wrote:
> I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).
>
> Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?
> For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.
> Thanks for any thoughts
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Several years ago I purchased a new window unit that I thought was defective because it didn't drop. Turns out the condensate puddles inside where the condenser fan picks it up and throws it on the coil. 

This water is pretty pure but as someone else mentioned, tap water has a lot of crud in it. Might try using distilled water instead. 

Shading the unit is the first thing I'd try. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Aug 8, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com> wrote:

I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).

Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?
For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.
Thanks for any thoughts

Bob Nogueira 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 13:10:47 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2379717642656778702==

----__JWM__J7136e056.8714d88S.5db7c710M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

I have an older heat and cool unit that is designed to take the condensa=
te and splash it on the hot coils to improve heat transfer.I was recentl=
y down in Dallas and a local restaurant had a special zone of their irri=
gation system dedicated to soaking the outside units of their HVAC syste=
m.  I asked the manager and he said it was the only way their system cou=
ld handle the 100+ degree days.  Matt

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2016 18:07:41 -0500

I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty g=
ood job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) i=
t is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour o=
r so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).

Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporat=
or coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to =
cool?
For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring=
 and installing a larger unit.
Thanks for any thoughts

Bob Nogueira


Bob Nogueira =

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
re@juno.com

----__JWM__J7136e056.8714d88S.5db7c710M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>I have an older heat and cool unit that is designed to take t=
he condensate and splash it on the hot coils to improve heat transfer.</=
div>
<div>I was recently down in Dallas and a local restaurant had a special&=
nbsp;zone&nbsp;of their irrigation system dedicated to soaking the outsi=
de units of their HVAC system. &nbsp;I asked the manager and he said it =
was the only way their system could handle the 100+ degree days.&nbsp;</=
div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Matt<br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Robert =
nogueira &lt;nogera@icloud.com&gt;<br>To: Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.=
team.net&gt;<br>Subject: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner<br>=
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2016 18:07:41 -0500<br><br>I've got a window mounted A=
/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down =
but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and i=
s tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( uni=
t gets full sun).<br><br>Question: would installing a fine water mist sp=
rayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus al=
lowing it to continue to cool?<br>For the few weeks I have this problem =
it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.<br>Than=
ks for any thoughts<br><br>Bob Nogueira<br><br><br>Bob Nogueira <br>____=
___________________________________________<br><br>Shop-talk@autox.team.=
net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donat=
ion &nbsp;$12.96<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http=
://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com</p></html>

----__JWM__J7136e056.8714d88S.5db7c710M--

--===============2379717642656778702==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============2379717642656778702==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  9 08:42:18 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 07:20:49 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] turning the end of a bolt.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 8/8/2016 6:23 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> Put another nut (or two) the the same size as the bolt head on the
> threaded portion, run it down to the bottom of the threads, align all
> the flat faces and put it in the chuck.

This worked for me as well.

Done it a few times, but most notably I've got a spare-tire mount on my 
trailer that's got a 1in (I think) bolt thru a plate to retain the 
wheel, I cut the threads off the last inch and a quarter or so of the 
bolt, milled flats on the sides, and drilled it for a padlock.

Cutting the threads off will require a fairly high speed and shallow cut.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 10:59:34 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I performed some experiments a few years back just before I replaced my 
old central air units.  They were still functional but old and I wanted 
to pre-emptively replace them before the weather turned really hot.  I 
figured since they were being replaced that week anyway so I wasn't 
concerned about doing something to shorten their lifespan.

Test 1 was directly misting the condenser coils.  We have pretty hard 
water so I knew this couldn't be a permanent solution but I was curious 
how much of a difference it would make.  I don't have a clamp-on meter 
so I couldn't directly monitor the compressor's current draw but I saw a 
noticeable difference at the service entrance meter (yeah, I actually 
stood at the meter counting seconds per revolution as I turned the water 
on and off.  boring but...science!).  I don't have the numbers anymore 
but the difference was noticeable even by my crude observations.  On the 
order of 25% less current drawn when the fins were being actively cooled.

Test 2 was to try to cool the air *around* the condenser units without 
actually getting the fins wet.  I figured this method would avoid the 
scale build-up so if it worked it might actually be a long-term solution 
on hot days.  To do this, I rigged some foggers on a PVC scaffold about 
8 feet above and 4-5 feet to either side of the condensers (couldn't 
mount closer because the fan exhaust would interfere).  Kind of like how 
people mount foggers above and around the perimeter of a outdoor patio.  
The idea was the fog would cool the air as it evaporated on the way down 
and the condenser fans would suck this cooled air over the coils.  
Sounded good but in practice I didn't notice much difference at the meter.



On Aug 8, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com> wrote:
> I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).
>
> Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?
> For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.
> Thanks for any thoughts
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
>

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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 8/9/2016 9:10 AM, Matt wrote:
> I have an older heat and cool unit that is designed to take the 
> condensate and splash it on the hot coils to improve heat transfer.
You could place a large container under the unit to catch the condensate 
and a small sump pump (like for a fountain) to wet the hot coils.  No 
need to mist just let the water run over the coils and collect back in 
the container.  This would avoid the scaling issue.
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 17:02:30 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] step drilling holes
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============2051017855226250730==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0CC1_01D1F25F.D0F4BCD0"

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	charset="UTF-8"
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had to drill some one inch holes (several) in 1/2=E2=80=9D plate.  Using =
a drill press so that helps... I wouldn=E2=80=99t try a 1=E2=80=9D hole =
with a hand drill ! Didn=E2=80=99t really think a hole saw was the right =
way so I just stepped up starting with a 3/8=E2=80=9D bit then up to =
3/4. then up to 1=E2=80=9D... Worked fine.. lots of oil, took my time... =
but while I was bored (pardon the pun) I was thinking about the best =
steps to use...   when drilling large diameter in thick steel is there =
an accepted increment you should use ??  1/4=E2=80=9D increments ??  =
1/8=E2=80=9D ??      job is done but I was never taught this I just =
kinda used what I thought would work.   Suggestions ??

thanks
John

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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>had to drill some one inch holes (several) in 1/2=E2=80=9D =
plate.&nbsp; Using a=20
drill press so that helps... I wouldn=E2=80=99t try a 1=E2=80=9D hole =
with a hand drill ! Didn=E2=80=99t=20
really think a hole saw was the right way so I just stepped up starting =
with a=20
3/8=E2=80=9D bit then up to 3/4. then up to 1=E2=80=9D... Worked fine.. =
lots of oil, took my=20
time... but while I was bored (pardon the pun) I was thinking about the =
best=20
steps to use...&nbsp;&nbsp; when drilling large diameter in thick steel =
is there=20
an accepted increment you should use ??&nbsp; 1/4=E2=80=9D increments =
??&nbsp; 1/8=E2=80=9D=20
??&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; job is done but I was never taught this =
I just=20
kinda used what I thought would work.&nbsp;&nbsp; Suggestions ??</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>John</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 11 21:58:36 2016
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From: MattMahony <MattMahony@Comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 17:55:31 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cooling down an air conditioner
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob:

The sprayer will work but if you have any mineral content in your water 
supply the minerals will build up on the coil surface and cut down on 
the heat transfer ability of the coils. Before you do that, try cleaning 
the condenser coil. Most of the window units draw in outside air from 
behind the condenser coil through louvers in the sides of the wrapper, 
then push the air out the coil. You can't see the dirt on the inside.  
Most also divert the evaporator condensate water to a slinger on the fan 
blade so the condensate is evaporated on the coil and discharged in the 
hot air stream. Provides a minimal efficiency increase.

The outside air drawn in contains dust, pollen, leaves and who knows 
what. Do you have cottonwood trees in the neighborhood? They're the 
worst.  After a few seasons that debris combines with the condensate 
water to make a muddy paste that builds up in the fins and really cuts 
down on the heat transfer. Use 409, Simple Green, or any mild detergent 
in a sprayer, and then back flush with a garden hose, no spray nozzle. 
You don't need high pressure and if you bend the fins over with  a high 
pressure spray you'll have a fun job straightening them out.  First time 
I did this, I was amazed at how much junk was in there.

Matt
___________________________________



On 8/8/2016 4:07 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I've got a window mounted A/C in my garage. It generally does a pretty good job of cooling it down but now that the daily high is over 100 (f) it is having a problem and is tripping the breaker after running a hour or so in mid afternoon ( unit gets full sun).
>
> Question: would installing a fine water mist sprayer behind the evaporator coil easy the load on the compressor thus allowing it to continue to cool?
> For the few weeks I have this problem it is not worth the cost of wiring and installing a larger unit.
> Thanks for any thoughts
>
> Bob Nogueira
>
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mattmahony@comcast.net
>
>

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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
 "'Mike Rambour'" <lists@dinospider.com>
References: <20160809052029.E9AE52587953@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] turning the end of a bolt.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have had good results by nearly sawing through a matching nut (like a
> collet) and holding the bolt and nut in a three jaw chuck. The nut will
> protect the threads while you tighten the chuck. Accuracy will depend on
> the chuck.

Ditto, but I cut all the way through one corner of the nut, using a Dremel
tool and abrasive cutoff blade.  The nut deforms slightly under pressure
from the jaws to grip the bolt firmly, but then springs back to release it
once the jaws are released.

Save the nut for next time, it will also work in a vise for cross-drilling,
cutting to length, etc.

== Randall


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From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:12:50 -0500
To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] turning the end of a bolt.
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1396167848132408034==

--001a113edaae7220e60539cc5cbf

Another way to do this is rough grind the threads off on a bench grinder
and then finish on the lathe.  As long as you are careful no to go too deep
on the grinder, it makes the lathe work a lot easier.

On Tue, Aug 9, 2016 at 9:20 AM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:

> On 8/8/2016 6:23 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
>
>> Put another nut (or two) the the same size as the bolt head on the
>> threaded portion, run it down to the bottom of the threads, align all
>> the flat faces and put it in the chuck.
>>
>
> This worked for me as well.
>
> Done it a few times, but most notably I've got a spare-tire mount on my
> trailer that's got a 1in (I think) bolt thru a plate to retain the wheel, I
> cut the threads off the last inch and a quarter or so of the bolt, milled
> flats on the sides, and drilled it for a padlock.
>
> Cutting the threads off will require a fairly high speed and shallow cut.
>
> John.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--001a113edaae7220e60539cc5cbf
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Another way to do this is rough grind the threads off on a=
 bench grinder and then finish on the lathe.=C2=A0 As long as you are caref=
ul no to go too deep on the grinder, it makes the lathe work a lot easier.<=
br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, =
Aug 9, 2016 at 9:20 AM, John Miller <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:jem@milleredp.com" target=3D"_blank">jem@milleredp.com</a>&gt;</span> wrot=
e:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span class=3D"">On 8/8/2016 6:23 PM, =
Dave Cavanaugh wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Put another nut (or two) the the same size as the bolt head on the<br>
threaded portion, run it down to the bottom of the threads, align all<br>
the flat faces and put it in the chuck.<br>
</blockquote>
<br></span>
This worked for me as well.<br>
<br>
Done it a few times, but most notably I&#39;ve got a spare-tire mount on my=
 trailer that&#39;s got a 1in (I think) bolt thru a plate to retain the whe=
el, I cut the threads off the last inch and a quarter or so of the bolt, mi=
lled flats on the sides, and drilled it for a padlock.<br>
<br>
Cutting the threads off will require a fairly high speed and shallow cut.<s=
pan class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><br>
<br>
John.</font></span><div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5"><br>
______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.htm<wbr>l</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/<wbr>options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmai<wbr>l.com</a><br>
<br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=
=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D</div>
</div>

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--===============1396167848132408034==--

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From: eric@megageek.com
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2016 05:43:26 -0400
 14, 2013) at 08/12/2016 05:43:26 AM,
 Serialize complete at 08/12/2016 05:43:26 AM,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] step drilling holes
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On 8/9/2016 3:02 PM, john niolon wrote:
> had to drill some one inch holes (several) in 1/2=94 plate.  Using a drill
> press so that helps... I wouldn=92t try a 1=94 hole with a hand drill !

When you need a clean reasonably dimensionally-correct hole: Rotabroach.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
utox.team.net

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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 08:31:08 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Lawn sprinkler
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I'm planning on having a lawn sprinkler system installed. I've noted that there are several types of sprinkler heads and would like some input on which type is the best. Any opinions?

Bob Nogueira 
  

Bob Nogueira 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 13 10:27:54 2016
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From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 12:24:02 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lawn sprinkler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you contracting someone to install or doing it yourself?  If 
contracting, your installer most likely already has a particular 
brand/model that (s)he tends to work with so you'll need to talk to them 
about what they plan to use.

My sprinkler system consists of 5 zones of rotors (Rainbird 3500 and 
5000) for the lawn areas and 2 zones of a mixture of drip and 
microsprayers for the landscaping and garden areas.  Whatever you 
choose, I strongly recommend you plan for future expansion.  So install 
an extra valve or two in each valve box.  Extra valves are trivial to 
add to your manifolds when everything is dug up but it's a devil to add 
a valve to an existing box once everything is closed-up and buried.  
Worst case is the extra valves never get used.

For your main sprinklers, you pretty much have 3 choices: rotors, impact 
rotors or sprayers.  Sprayers are the simplest...no moving parts...and 
you can buy spray heads for various patterns.  But for a given GPM and 
PSI, they have lower coverage area than rotors so you'll need 
comparatively more zones if you use sprayers.  They're useful if you 
have an odd-shaped rectangular area or if you want to spray your 
shrubbery from afar.  Rotors and impact rotors shoot a stream (some 
shoot multiple streams) in a circular pattern.  So they can cover a much 
greater area for a given PSI and GPM. Impact rotors have pretty high GPM 
requirements, though, so unless you upgrade your water supply line, 
chance are you don't have enough GPM available to drive more than a 
couple per zone.  That's why most residential homes use non-impact 
rotors.  Non-impact rotors are also silent so your neighbors might thank 
you for that.

Do...do...do install a drip system for your landscaping.  Note that drip 
tubing is not the same as the rubber soaker hose that you buy at box 
stores (that stuff is crap).  Drip tubing and drip emitters are 
generally pressure-compensating so emitters near the end of a run are 
guaranteed to output the same amount of water as emitters near the start 
of the run.

J


On 08/13/2016 09:31 AM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I'm planning on having a lawn sprinkler system installed. I've noted that there are several types of sprinkler heads and would like some input on which type is the best. Any opinions?
>
> Bob Nogueira
>    
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
>

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 13 13:24:38 2016
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To: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>, Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <908CB343-ECEE-4B9E-9DAA-6C399B284767@icloud.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 10:46:56 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lawn sprinkler
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob - You asked a very broad question with lots of possible answers.  To 
gain a better understanding of sprinklers, I suggest you take a look at
http://orbit.homedepot.com/sprinkler_design
There are other design tools, but this is a good starting point.

For planting areas, I recommend drip irrigation.  For small grass areas 
and irregular shapes, pop up heads are good.  For large grass areas, I 
recommend gear drive rotors as they are quieter than the impact rotors.

If doing it yourself, you will need to find out your water pressure and 
flow.  If you have a contractor doing the work, he should do the same - 
connect a pressure gauge and time filling a bucket.  You will then need 
to plot the area you plan to irrigate and place the heads.  Next, you 
use the available water calculation and flow of the heads to group them 
in zones.  You want each zone to have the same class of sprinkler and 
similar conditions so that the watering needs match.

I recommend staying with a single brand for a given type of sprinkler so 
you can interchange parts if something breaks.

I recommend at least 4" pop-ups if you go that route.  The 2.5" ones 
don't clear the top of the grass unless you have a lawn like a golf 
green and people that have them likely have a lawn full of sprinkler 
divots - grass holes cut with the sting trimmer so the sprinklers will 
actually spray.  The price difference is small.

I recommend sprinkler heads in the lawn area be connected with a short 
length of flexible pipe.  This makes it easier to have the top of the 
head flush with the surface.  It also mean that if someone drives a 
truck over your sprinkler, they are less likely to actually break a 
pipe.  I use Toro funny pipe.

Automatic controllers are great so you can water early in the morning 
while you are still asleep and the water has time to soak in before the 
sun comes up.  Weather based controllers are also a great idea so you 
don't water your lawn in the rain.  They have a sensor you mount on a 
fence or the house that communicates with the controller to stop the 
sprinklers for a period of time after measurable rain or bump up the 
time if it is unusually hot and dry. If you are doing your sprinkler 
maintenance and have a big property, a remote control is really nice so 
you can turn the sprinklers on and off from beside the sprinkler head 
you are working on.

As Jimmy mentioned in his reply, plan for expansion.  At the end of my 
manifolds, I just stubbed out an additional supply pipe with a cap.  If 
I want to add an extra zone, I can just cut the pipe and add another 
riser for the valve.

The sprinkler valve in a properly designed system you be full open when 
running.  Each sprinkler head is normally adjustable.

If you live where it freezes, you want the capability to blow out the 
sprinkler zones to remove the water from the pipes.

If you have a situation where the sprinklers don't seem to spray well, 
look for a leak or broken pipe.

Good luck.  Once they work, sprinkler systems are great.

Brian


On 8/13/2016 6:31 AM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I'm planning on having a lawn sprinkler system installed. I've noted that there are several types of sprinkler heads and would like some input on which type is the best. Any opinions?
>
> Bob Nogueira
>    
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>
>

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 13 14:49:31 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
To: 'Jimmie Mayfield' <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>,
 shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <908CB343-ECEE-4B9E-9DAA-6C399B284767@icloud.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lawn sprinkler
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Bob,

I totally agree with Jimmie, but would go a bit further. 

Don't forget to add extra wires for the extra valves, plus one or so if the
wires get damaged you don't have to dig up the yard to repair it, just move
to a different wire.

Depending on the price of the controller, I would also add enough control
zones to handle the extra valves. Some controllers have the ability to add
more zones on later, which would be an alternative.

Also, no matter who installs the system, take photos of the pipes and wires
so if there is a need to find them you will have a better idea of where they
are.

I have drip tapes around my trees and in the garden and they work great.
There is no spraying water into the air where some will evaporate and puts
it all on the roots.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jimmie Mayfield
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 11:24 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lawn sprinkler

Are you contracting someone to install or doing it yourself?  If 
contracting, your installer most likely already has a particular 
brand/model that (s)he tends to work with so you'll need to talk to them 
about what they plan to use.

My sprinkler system consists of 5 zones of rotors (Rainbird 3500 and 
5000) for the lawn areas and 2 zones of a mixture of drip and 
microsprayers for the landscaping and garden areas.  Whatever you 
choose, I strongly recommend you plan for future expansion.  So install 
an extra valve or two in each valve box.  Extra valves are trivial to 
add to your manifolds when everything is dug up but it's a devil to add 
a valve to an existing box once everything is closed-up and buried.  
Worst case is the extra valves never get used.

For your main sprinklers, you pretty much have 3 choices: rotors, impact 
rotors or sprayers.  Sprayers are the simplest...no moving parts...and 
you can buy spray heads for various patterns.  But for a given GPM and 
PSI, they have lower coverage area than rotors so you'll need 
comparatively more zones if you use sprayers.  They're useful if you 
have an odd-shaped rectangular area or if you want to spray your 
shrubbery from afar.  Rotors and impact rotors shoot a stream (some 
shoot multiple streams) in a circular pattern.  So they can cover a much 
greater area for a given PSI and GPM. Impact rotors have pretty high GPM 
requirements, though, so unless you upgrade your water supply line, 
chance are you don't have enough GPM available to drive more than a 
couple per zone.  That's why most residential homes use non-impact 
rotors.  Non-impact rotors are also silent so your neighbors might thank 
you for that.

Do...do...do install a drip system for your landscaping.  Note that drip 
tubing is not the same as the rubber soaker hose that you buy at box 
stores (that stuff is crap).  Drip tubing and drip emitters are 
generally pressure-compensating so emitters near the end of a run are 
guaranteed to output the same amount of water as emitters near the start 
of the run.

J


On 08/13/2016 09:31 AM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I'm planning on having a lawn sprinkler system installed. I've noted that
there are several types of sprinkler heads and would like some input on
which type is the best. Any opinions?
>
> Bob Nogueira
>    
>
> Bob Nogueira
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.
org
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
References: <908CB343-ECEE-4B9E-9DAA-6C399B284767@icloud.com>
 <161a9b06-7b14-dc4b-818e-3e90b7acb9ab@sackheads.org>
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 14:11:15 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lawn sprinkler
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Pat's advice about the wires is right on if the controller isn't next to 
the valves.  I had one zone that was initially intermittent due to a bad 
wire.  When it failed, I had to dig up wire to two different manifolds 
(the far one followed the path of the near one).  The bad install came 
as part of the house, but now both those manifolds have 1/2 PCV conduit 
protecting the wires.  One run has a LB junction at the end.  The other 
has a single gang box for the wire junctions.  Brown wire blends in with 
brown dirt, so it is tough to see if you dig.

Brian

On 8/13/2016 11:50 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
> Don't forget to add extra wires for the extra valves, plus one or so if the
> wires get damaged you don't have to dig up the yard to repair it, just move
> to a different wire.
>
>

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2016 14:01:26 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Should I ground a floor lamp?
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I'm rewiring an old lamp and the engineer in me says I should ground the frame in case the socket goes awry. There's currently no conductivity between the neutral part of the socket and the frame/pole (isolated by a cardboard sleeve), so if the hot touches the frame it will become hot.

Paranoid or common sense? Any reason not to?

thanks,
jim
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2016 13:26:15 -0700
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Should I ground a floor lamp?
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The paranoid in me says to ground it too but getting 3-wire cord that looks good isn't easy. There is some flat 3-wire coed out there, so look around. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Aug 20, 2016, at 11:01 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

I'm rewiring an old lamp and the engineer in me says I should ground the frame in case the socket goes awry. There's currently no conductivity between the neutral part of the socket and the frame/pole (isolated by a cardboard sleeve), so if the hot touches the frame it will become hot.

Paranoid or common sense? Any reason not to?

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 20 21:41:35 2016
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Should I ground a floor lamp?
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Yea, after looking around at the (lack of) available wire, I disassembled the socket and determined it was pretty unlikely the hot screw would ever contact the frame, since the cardboard was in great shape. So unless I find round 16/2 stranded with ground, i'll keep it as is.

jim

On Aug 20, 2016, at 4:26 PM, Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com> wrote:

> The paranoid in me says to ground it too but getting 3-wire cord that looks good isn't easy. There is some flat 3-wire coed out there, so look around. 
> 
> Peace,
> Pat
> 
> Pat Horne 
> We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity
> 
> 
> On Aug 20, 2016, at 11:01 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> 
> I'm rewiring an old lamp and the engineer in me says I should ground the frame in case the socket goes awry. There's currently no conductivity between the neutral part of the socket and the frame/pole (isolated by a cardboard sleeve), so if the hot touches the frame it will become hot.
> 
> Paranoid or common sense? Any reason not to?
> 
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com
> 

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Should I ground a floor lamp?
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> I'm rewiring an old lamp and the engineer in me says I should ground the
> frame in case the socket goes awry. There's currently no conductivity
> between the neutral part of the socket and the frame/pole (isolated by a
> cardboard sleeve), so if the hot touches the frame it will become hot.
> 
> Paranoid or common sense? Any reason not to?

Only reason not to IMO would be if you still have a 2 prong outlet or
extension cord somewhere.

Randall

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Should I ground a floor lamp?
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-- Randall
 

> So unless I
> find round 16/2 stranded with ground, i'll keep it as is.

If color doesn't matter, you can easily find round 16/2 with ground (or 16/3
which will work just as well) as a "light duty" extension cord.  Usually
only orange, yellow, red or green, though.

If flat would do, there are more color choices, like white, black and gray.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-15-ft-16-3-White-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Cord-AW
64035/207024576

Randall

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From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2016 09:22:44 -0400
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Should I ground a floor lamp?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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There are tens of millions of these in use all over, and I expect that
none of them have an equipment grounding conductor.  There doesn't
seem to be any widespread problem...

Just make sure to use a polarized plug (check your house wiring if
necessary), and exercise due care when wiring the socket.  (Hot wire
to the center, neutral to the shell, but you knew that.)

I have been known to solder the bare conductors in a hook shape so no
strands go awry when I tighten the screw - but even that is probably
overkill.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Sat, Aug 20, 2016 at 2:01 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> I'm rewiring an old lamp and the engineer in me says I should ground the frame in case the socket goes awry. There's currently no conductivity between the neutral part of the socket and the frame/pole (isolated by a cardboard sleeve), so if the hot touches the frame it will become hot.
>
> Paranoid or common sense? Any reason not to?
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
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Just approaching the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage addition to the =
house.
Trusses flew-in with the hell of a large crane, just yesterday!
Getting around to planning the walls.  I have an opportunity=20
to obtain a good-sized amount of SLATWALL.  Was thinking of=20
some areas that this could be a good alternative to drywall.
Any suggestions?  Is the product a good alternative in a garage?
Good or bad luck in using?
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Just approaching the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage addition to =
the=20
house.</DIV>
<DIV>Trusses flew-in with the hell of a large crane, just =
yesterday!</DIV>
<DIV>Getting around to planning the walls.&nbsp; I have an opportunity =
</DIV>
<DIV>to obtain a good-sized amount of SLATWALL.&nbsp; Was thinking of =
</DIV>
<DIV>some areas that this could be a good alternative to drywall.</DIV>
<DIV>Any suggestions?&nbsp; Is the product a good alternative in a =
garage?</DIV>
<DIV>Good or bad luck in using?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Steve=20
Hammatt<BR>Mount Vernon WA USA</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4480829106312524100==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 31 14:53:33 2016
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA'" <gsteve@hammatt.com>,
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <0E1EF3F230AF480683E8DAF538FDFFE2@StevePC>
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2016 13:58:25 -0400
Thread-Index: AQHSA6yyBoP8cxNQI0mkp+HjBIQTKKBjWvSA
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] SLATWALL
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I have used slat wall in my basement. Even used it non horizontal. Just =
looks like expensive wood paneling.

=20

Tony V

=20

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 9:49 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] SLATWALL

=20

Just approaching the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage addition to the =
house.

Trusses flew-in with the hell of a large crane, just yesterday!

Getting around to planning the walls.  I have an opportunity=20

to obtain a good-sized amount of SLATWALL.  Was thinking of=20

some areas that this could be a good alternative to drywall.

Any suggestions?  Is the product a good alternative in a garage?

Good or bad luck in using?

Thanks.

=20

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA


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xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>I have used =
slat wall in my basement. Even used it non horizontal. Just looks like =
expensive wood paneling.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Tony =
V<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, August =
31, 2016 9:49 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] =
SLATWALL<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Just approaching =
the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage addition to the =
house.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Trusses flew-in =
with the hell of a large crane, just =
yesterday!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Getting around to =
planning the walls.&nbsp; I have an opportunity =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>to obtain a =
good-sized amount of SLATWALL.&nbsp; Was thinking of =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>some areas that =
this could be a good alternative to =
drywall.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Any =
suggestions?&nbsp; Is the product a good alternative in a =
garage?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Good or bad luck =
in using?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Thanks.<o:p></o:p>=
</span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p><=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Steve =
Hammatt<br>Mount Vernon WA =
USA<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 31 19:41:18 2016
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2016 13:02:51 -0700
References: <0E1EF3F230AF480683E8DAF538FDFFE2@StevePC>
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] SLATWALL
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============9176905597593404185==
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Hi Steve,

I put several panels up in my garage, and have been happy with it.  The =
fixtures are much heavier that the typical peg board stuff, which is =
nice.

The only thing I did wrong was I attached it to concrete walls, and only =
bolted it at the top and bottom.  So the center bows out with humidity =
change, or when heavy loads.  But it hasn=E2=80=99t been bad enough that =
I=E2=80=99ve gone back to add fasteners.

Mine was unfinished MDF, which I painted white.

-Darrell

> On Aug 31, 2016, at 6:49 AM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA =
<gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:
>=20
> Just approaching the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage addition to the =
house.
> Trusses flew-in with the hell of a large crane, just yesterday!
> Getting around to planning the walls.  I have an opportunity
> to obtain a good-sized amount of SLATWALL.  Was thinking of
> some areas that this could be a good alternative to drywall.
> Any suggestions?  Is the product a good alternative in a garage?
> Good or bad luck in using?
> Thanks.
> =20
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com
>=20


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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>Hi Steve,<div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I put several panels up =
in my garage, and have been happy with it. &nbsp;The fixtures are much =
heavier that the typical peg board stuff, which is nice.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The only thing I did =
wrong was I attached it to concrete walls, and only bolted it at the top =
and bottom. &nbsp;So the center bows out with humidity change, or when =
heavy loads. &nbsp;But it hasn=E2=80=99t been bad enough that I=E2=80=99ve=
 gone back to add fasteners.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Mine was unfinished MDF, which I =
painted white.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">-Darrell</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""><div><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Aug 31, 2016, at 6:49 AM, =
Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:gsteve@hammatt.com" class=3D"">gsteve@hammatt.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
<div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri;" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">Just approaching the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage =
addition to the=20
house.</div>
<div class=3D"">Trusses flew-in with the hell of a large crane, just =
yesterday!</div>
<div class=3D"">Getting around to planning the walls.&nbsp; I have an =
opportunity </div>
<div class=3D"">to obtain a good-sized amount of SLATWALL.&nbsp; Was =
thinking of </div>
<div class=3D"">some areas that this could be a good alternative to =
drywall.</div>
<div class=3D"">Any suggestions?&nbsp; Is the product a good alternative =
in a garage?</div>
<div class=3D"">Good or bad luck in using?</div>
<div class=3D"">Thanks.</div>
<div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri;" class=3D"">Steve=20=

Hammatt<br class=3D"">Mount Vernon WA USA</div></div></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D"">Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br =
class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 31 20:52:51 2016
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To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>,
 Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <0E1EF3F230AF480683E8DAF538FDFFE2@StevePC>
From: Rush <jdrush@enter.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2016 16:32:25 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.1.1
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] SLATWALL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have slatwall on one half of my garage and am planning on installing 
it on the other half. It's a super flexible storage solution with a near 
infinite variety of hangers for any type of item. Mine has metal inserts 
in the grooves to make it a little tougher to tear out a hanger, should 
it receive a shock.

Essentially the drywall got in the way of my installation. Would been 
easier to install directly on the studs. Assuming your fire codes permit it.

The only downside so far is the cheap hangers sometimes pop out of the 
wall when you are unloading them. A minor inconvenience.

Jon

On 8/31/2016 9:49 AM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Just approaching the finishing of a 2k sf shop/garage addition to the house.
> Trusses flew-in with the hell of a large crane, just yesterday!
> Getting around to planning the walls.  I have an opportunity
> to obtain a good-sized amount of SLATWALL.  Was thinking of
> some areas that this could be a good alternative to drywall.
> Any suggestions?  Is the product a good alternative in a garage?
> Good or bad luck in using?
> Thanks.
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdrush@enter.net
>
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

