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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2016 12:20:02 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] winchin advice
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I=E2=80=99m working on a truck project (53 f-100) in a single car =
garage...  the truck is almost complete with 460 ci engine cab and bed =
in place...  when I started it was easy to push in and out of the =
garage.. especially out since the floor and drive slope slightly away =
from the door.   Pushing it back in is getting to be a problem when =
I=E2=80=99m working alone.   I=E2=80=99m thinking about mounting an =
extra 3000#  winch to the floor and spooling out the cable to the =
trailer hitch on the truck and using the winch to pull it back in.  The =
truck is on ball bearing wheeled dollies and moves easily on flat =
ground.  I need ideas for mounting the winch temporarily when I need =
it... =20

Maybe anchoring a removable ring in the floor and use chain thru the =
ring to tie to the winch mount plate... or something similar.   Not sure =
on floor thickness but know it=E2=80=99s at least 4=E2=80=9D  =
(I=E2=80=99m gonna drill and find out actual thickness)   I=E2=80=99m =
open to all suggestions and comments

thanks
John
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I=E2=80=99m working on a truck project (53 f-100) in a single car =
garage...&nbsp;=20
the truck is almost complete with 460 ci engine cab and bed in =
place...&nbsp;=20
when I started it was easy to push in and out of the garage.. especially =
out=20
since the floor and drive slope slightly away from the door.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Pushing=20
it back in is getting to be a problem when I=E2=80=99m working =
alone.&nbsp;&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m=20
thinking about mounting an extra 3000#&nbsp; winch to the floor and =
spooling out=20
the cable to the trailer hitch on the truck and using the winch to pull =
it back=20
in.&nbsp; The truck is on ball bearing wheeled dollies and moves easily =
on flat=20
ground.&nbsp; I need ideas for mounting the winch temporarily when I =
need=20
it...&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Maybe anchoring a removable ring in the floor and use chain thru =
the ring=20
to tie to the winch mount plate... or something similar.&nbsp;&nbsp; Not =
sure on=20
floor thickness but know it=E2=80=99s at least 4=E2=80=9D&nbsp; =
(I=E2=80=99m gonna drill and find out=20
actual thickness)&nbsp;&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m open to all suggestions and =
comments</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>John</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  1 14:46:25 2016
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References: <92B25BD4EB01449F83A4942F4B92D170@UserPC>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2016 15:30:14 -0500
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] winchin advice
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4886856847075591681==

--001a1144404eaa1c90053698dac8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I had a situation very similar to yours.  What I ended up doing was to
mount a 5000# D ring at the back of the garage and attaching a snatch block
to that.  Then I used a winch on my tow vehicle to pull the project in and
out of the garage.  To pull out, just hook up directly and pull.  To pull
in, hook to the front of the project, through the snatch block and pull.
The D-Ring was small enough and mounted all the way against the back wall,
so it was never in the way and I didn't have to worry about hooking and
unhooking.

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 12:20 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> I=E2=80=99m working on a truck project (53 f-100) in a single car garage.=
..  the
> truck is almost complete with 460 ci engine cab and bed in place...  when=
 I
> started it was easy to push in and out of the garage.. especially out sin=
ce
> the floor and drive slope slightly away from the door.   Pushing it back =
in
> is getting to be a problem when I=E2=80=99m working alone.   I=E2=80=99m =
thinking about
> mounting an extra 3000#  winch to the floor and spooling out the cable to
> the trailer hitch on the truck and using the winch to pull it back in.  T=
he
> truck is on ball bearing wheeled dollies and moves easily on flat ground.
> I need ideas for mounting the winch temporarily when I need it...
>
> Maybe anchoring a removable ring in the floor and use chain thru the ring
> to tie to the winch mount plate... or something similar.   Not sure on
> floor thickness but know it=E2=80=99s at least 4=E2=80=9D  (I=E2=80=99m g=
onna drill and find out
> actual thickness)   I=E2=80=99m open to all suggestions and comments
>
> thanks
> John
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>
>


--=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--001a1144404eaa1c90053698dac8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I had a situation very similar to yours.=C2=A0 What I ende=
d up doing was to mount a 5000# D ring at the back of the garage and attach=
ing a snatch block to that.=C2=A0 Then I used a winch on my tow vehicle to =
pull the project in and out of the garage.=C2=A0 To pull out, just hook up =
directly and pull.=C2=A0 To pull in, hook to the front of the project, thro=
ugh the snatch block and pull.=C2=A0 The D-Ring was small enough and mounte=
d all the way against the back wall, so it was never in the way and I didn&=
#39;t have to worry about hooking and unhooking.<br></div><div class=3D"gma=
il_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 12:20 PM, j=
ohn niolon <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net" target=
=3D"_blank">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-l=
eft:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:&#39;Calibri&#39;;COLOR:#000000">
<div>I=E2=80=99m working on a truck project (53 f-100) in a single car gara=
ge...=C2=A0=20
the truck is almost complete with 460 ci engine cab and bed in place...=C2=
=A0=20
when I started it was easy to push in and out of the garage.. especially ou=
t=20
since the floor and drive slope slightly away from the door.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Pu=
shing=20
it back in is getting to be a problem when I=E2=80=99m working alone.=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m=20
thinking about mounting an extra 3000#=C2=A0 winch to the floor and spoolin=
g out=20
the cable to the trailer hitch on the truck and using the winch to pull it =
back=20
in.=C2=A0 The truck is on ball bearing wheeled dollies and moves easily on =
flat=20
ground.=C2=A0 I need ideas for mounting the winch temporarily when I need=
=20
it...=C2=A0 </div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Maybe anchoring a removable ring in the floor and use chain thru the r=
ing=20
to tie to the winch mount plate... or something similar.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Not su=
re on=20
floor thickness but know it=E2=80=99s at least 4=E2=80=9D=C2=A0 (I=E2=80=99=
m gonna drill and find out=20
actual thickness)=C2=A0=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m open to all suggestions and comme=
nts</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>thanks</div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">
<div>John</div></font></span></div></div></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br=
>=3D Never offend people with style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can off=
end with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</d=
iv>
</div>

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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2016 15:53:33 -0500
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dye-ing stainless steel
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0082614067940876816==

--001a11400e765604150536993043

My wife asked for a monogrammed Yeti cup--you know, those stainless steel
cups that keep ice cool forever.

Got the cup, had it monogrammed. I am a hero.

Monogram is so 'shallow' into the stainless that it's almost impossible to
see. You can catch your fingernail on it, but just barely.

I was going to have at it with a Sharpie, then wipe off the excess, but I
don't know if that'll do it--if it wipes off the surrounding metal, why
won't it wipe off the engraved part, too? I doubt the cut is deep enough to
hold paint, but I might try that.

Thought you guys might have advice on how to get this to stand out.

Thanks in advance.

Scott

--001a11400e765604150536993043
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">My wife asked for a monogrammed Yeti cup--you know, those =
stainless steel cups that keep ice cool forever.<div><br></div><div>Got the=
 cup, had it monogrammed. I am a hero.</div><div><br></div><div>Monogram is=
 so &#39;shallow&#39; into the stainless that it&#39;s almost impossible to=
 see. You can catch your fingernail on it, but just barely.</div><div><br><=
/div><div>I was going to have at it with a Sharpie, then wipe off the exces=
s, but I don&#39;t know if that&#39;ll do it--if it wipes off the surroundi=
ng metal, why won&#39;t it wipe off the engraved part, too? I doubt the cut=
 is deep enough to hold paint, but I might try that.</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>Thought you guys might have advice on how to get this to stand out.</div=
><div><br></div><div>Thanks in advance.</div><div><br></div><div>Scott</div=
></div>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
 "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u4kFKBU2dCWO7LdYsQxQ5D_aRF9RxoKTTUF0QFEsuBsXA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2016 16:41:32 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dye-ing stainless steel
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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take your mig welder with .029 wire... and with a steady hand......    I =
wouldn=E2=80=99t use flux core.... too much texture with that

From: Scott Hall=20
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2016 3:53 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net=20
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dye-ing stainless steel

My wife asked for a monogrammed Yeti cup--you know, those stainless =
steel cups that keep ice cool forever.=20

Got the cup, had it monogrammed. I am a hero.

Monogram is so 'shallow' into the stainless that it's almost impossible =
to see. You can catch your fingernail on it, but just barely.

I was going to have at it with a Sharpie, then wipe off the excess, but =
I don't know if that'll do it--if it wipes off the surrounding metal, =
why won't it wipe off the engraved part, too? I doubt the cut is deep =
enough to hold paint, but I might try that.

Thought you guys might have advice on how to get this to stand out.

Thanks in advance.

Scott


-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net


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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>take your mig welder with .029 wire... and with a steady hand...... =
<IMG=20
class=3D"wlEmoticon wlEmoticon-smile"=20
style=3D"BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none; =
BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none"=20
alt=3DSmile =
src=3D"cid:ECE8EB0D8F02401DAF02130009153DD8@UserPC">&nbsp;&nbsp; I=20
wouldn=E2=80=99t use flux core.... too much texture with that</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=3Dscott.hall.personal@gmail.com=20
href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com">Scott Hall</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 01, 2016 3:53 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3DShop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Shop-talk] Dye-ing stainless =
steel</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>My wife asked for a monogrammed Yeti cup--you know, those =
stainless=20
steel cups that keep ice cool forever.=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Got the cup, had it monogrammed. I am a hero.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Monogram is so 'shallow' into the stainless that it's almost =
impossible to=20
see. You can catch your fingernail on it, but just barely.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I was going to have at it with a Sharpie, then wipe off the excess, =
but I=20
don't know if that'll do it--if it wipes off the surrounding metal, why =
won't it=20
wipe off the engraved part, too? I doubt the cut is deep enough to hold =
paint,=20
but I might try that.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thought you guys might have advice on how to get this to stand =
out.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Scott</DIV></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR><BR>Shop-talk@autox.te=
am.net<BR>Donate:=20
$12.96<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
http://www.team.net/forums<BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2016 16:58:51 -0500
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] winchin advice
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6564602978426538692==

--001a114e710ade6ed605369a190e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'd do exactly what you suggest, John--anchor a loop/ring/anchor to the
slab and use that.

I saw that because my garage has evidence of one of the walls having been
pulled off the foundation. I'm not sure how they did that, but I got to fix
it.

Actually, I know *how* they did it--a gigantic D-ring mounted around a
length of bar stock bolted through several of the studs with a manual winch
attached to that. What I don't know is what on earth they were winching on
and how they thought that was a good idea.

It was a pain to get the sill plate squared back up onto the slab.

Scott

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 3:30 PM, John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:

> I had a situation very similar to yours.  What I ended up doing was to
> mount a 5000# D ring at the back of the garage and attaching a snatch blo=
ck
> to that.  Then I used a winch on my tow vehicle to pull the project in an=
d
> out of the garage.  To pull out, just hook up directly and pull.  To pull
> in, hook to the front of the project, through the snatch block and pull.
> The D-Ring was small enough and mounted all the way against the back wall=
,
> so it was never in the way and I didn't have to worry about hooking and
> unhooking.
>
> On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 12:20 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>
>> I=E2=80=99m working on a truck project (53 f-100) in a single car garage=
...  the
>> truck is almost complete with 460 ci engine cab and bed in place...  whe=
n I
>> started it was easy to push in and out of the garage.. especially out si=
nce
>> the floor and drive slope slightly away from the door.   Pushing it back=
 in
>> is getting to be a problem when I=E2=80=99m working alone.   I=E2=80=99m=
 thinking about
>> mounting an extra 3000#  winch to the floor and spooling out the cable t=
o
>> the trailer hitch on the truck and using the winch to pull it back in.  =
The
>> truck is on ball bearing wheeled dollies and moves easily on flat ground=
.
>> I need ideas for mounting the winch temporarily when I need it...
>>
>> Maybe anchoring a removable ring in the floor and use chain thru the rin=
g
>> to tie to the winch mount plate... or something similar.   Not sure on
>> floor thickness but know it=E2=80=99s at least 4=E2=80=9D  (I=E2=80=99m =
gonna drill and find out
>> actual thickness)   I=E2=80=99m open to all suggestions and comments
>>
>> thanks
>> John
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> =3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
> =3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail=
.com
>
>
>

--001a114e710ade6ed605369a190e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;d do exactly what you suggest, John--anchor a loop/r=
ing/anchor to the slab and use that.<div><br></div><div>I saw that because =
my garage has evidence of one of the walls having been pulled off the found=
ation. I&#39;m not sure how they did that, but I got to fix it.</div><div><=
br></div><div>Actually, I know *how* they did it--a gigantic D-ring mounted=
 around a length of bar stock bolted through several of the studs with a ma=
nual winch attached to that. What I don&#39;t know is what on earth they we=
re winching on and how they thought that was a good idea.</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>It was a pain to get the sill plate squared back up onto the slab.<=
/div><div><br></div><div>Scott</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 3:30 PM, John Innis <span d=
ir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jdinnis@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">jdinn=
is@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr">I had a situation very similar to yours.=C2=A0 What I ended up d=
oing was to mount a 5000# D ring at the back of the garage and attaching a =
snatch block to that.=C2=A0 Then I used a winch on my tow vehicle to pull t=
he project in and out of the garage.=C2=A0 To pull out, just hook up direct=
ly and pull.=C2=A0 To pull in, hook to the front of the project, through th=
e snatch block and pull.=C2=A0 The D-Ring was small enough and mounted all =
the way against the back wall, so it was never in the way and I didn&#39;t =
have to worry about hooking and unhooking.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_ext=
ra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><div class=3D"h5">On Fri, Jul 1, 20=
16 at 12:20 PM, john niolon <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon=
@att.net" target=3D"_blank">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br></div>=
</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div class=3D"h5">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:&#39;Calibri&#39;;COLOR:#000000">
<div>I=E2=80=99m working on a truck project (53 f-100) in a single car gara=
ge...=C2=A0=20
the truck is almost complete with 460 ci engine cab and bed in place...=C2=
=A0=20
when I started it was easy to push in and out of the garage.. especially ou=
t=20
since the floor and drive slope slightly away from the door.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Pu=
shing=20
it back in is getting to be a problem when I=E2=80=99m working alone.=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m=20
thinking about mounting an extra 3000#=C2=A0 winch to the floor and spoolin=
g out=20
the cable to the trailer hitch on the truck and using the winch to pull it =
back=20
in.=C2=A0 The truck is on ball bearing wheeled dollies and moves easily on =
flat=20
ground.=C2=A0 I need ideas for mounting the winch temporarily when I need=
=20
it...=C2=A0 </div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Maybe anchoring a removable ring in the floor and use chain thru the r=
ing=20
to tie to the winch mount plate... or something similar.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Not su=
re on=20
floor thickness but know it=E2=80=99s at least 4=E2=80=9D=C2=A0 (I=E2=80=99=
m gonna drill and find out=20
actual thickness)=C2=A0=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m open to all suggestions and comme=
nts</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>thanks</div><span><font color=3D"#888888">
<div>John</div></font></span></div></div></div>
<br></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
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ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><br><=
br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with style when you=C2=A0=C2=
=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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</font></span></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com<=
/a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  1 16:32:28 2016
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References: <CAK73_u4kFKBU2dCWO7LdYsQxQ5D_aRF9RxoKTTUF0QFEsuBsXA@mail.gmail.com>
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2016 18:01:08 -0400
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dye-ing stainless steel
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0518861842729523212==

--001a1140f488c1fbfa05369a1f28

The Lotus guys do what you're talking about with enamel hobby paint and it
comes out pretty nice:

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/attachments/f92/84869d1215138186-slow-day-painted-my-shift-knob-shift_knob_painted.jpg

Cheap enough to give it a shot:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=18696956&KPID=14980716&pla=pla_14980716

-Paul

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> My wife asked for a monogrammed Yeti cup--you know, those stainless steel
> cups that keep ice cool forever.
>
> Got the cup, had it monogrammed. I am a hero.
>
> Monogram is so 'shallow' into the stainless that it's almost impossible to
> see. You can catch your fingernail on it, but just barely.
>
> I was going to have at it with a Sharpie, then wipe off the excess, but I
> don't know if that'll do it--if it wipes off the surrounding metal, why
> won't it wipe off the engraved part, too? I doubt the cut is deep enough to
> hold paint, but I might try that.
>
> Thought you guys might have advice on how to get this to stand out.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
>

--001a1140f488c1fbfa05369a1f28
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">The Lotus guys do what you&#39;re talking about with ename=
l hobby paint and it comes out pretty nice:<div><br></div><div><a href=3D"h=
ttp://www.lotustalk.com/forums/attachments/f92/84869d1215138186-slow-day-pa=
inted-my-shift-knob-shift_knob_painted.jpg">http://www.lotustalk.com/forums=
/attachments/f92/84869d1215138186-slow-day-painted-my-shift-knob-shift_knob=
_painted.jpg</a></div><div><br></div><div>Cheap enough to give it a shot:</=
div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://www.acehardware.com/product/index=
.jsp?productId=3D18696956&amp;KPID=3D14980716&amp;pla=3Dpla_14980716">http:=
//www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3D18696956&amp;KPID=3D149=
80716&amp;pla=3Dpla_14980716</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>-Paul</div><d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Jul 1,=
 2016 at 4:53 PM, Scott Hall <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:scott.=
hall.personal@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0p=
x 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-c=
olor:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">My wife asked for =
a monogrammed Yeti cup--you know, those stainless steel cups that keep ice =
cool forever.<div><br></div><div>Got the cup, had it monogrammed. I am a he=
ro.</div><div><br></div><div>Monogram is so &#39;shallow&#39; into the stai=
nless that it&#39;s almost impossible to see. You can catch your fingernail=
 on it, but just barely.</div><div><br></div><div>I was going to have at it=
 with a Sharpie, then wipe off the excess, but I don&#39;t know if that&#39=
;ll do it--if it wipes off the surrounding metal, why won&#39;t it wipe off=
 the engraved part, too? I doubt the cut is deep enough to hold paint, but =
I might try that.</div><div><br></div><div>Thought you guys might have advi=
ce on how to get this to stand out.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks in adva=
nce.</div><span class=3D""><font color=3D"#888888"><div><br></div><div>Scot=
t</div></font></span></div>
</blockquote></div><br></div></div></div>

--001a1140f488c1fbfa05369a1f28--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  2 09:05:43 2016
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Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2016 11:02:12 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Shop content: a neighbor came into my shop (garage) and asked me a 
question about his 2004 Honda Accord with about 87,000 mi on it.

When he accelerates above 50 MPH the car vibrates.  He took me for a 
test ride, and it is very previlant.  You feel it through the entire car.

As soon as he quits accelerating the ride smooths out.  As long as he is hold
a constant speed everything if fine.  But if he trys to accelerate 
the vibration starts back up.

The check engine light is **not** on.  The only light that is on is the maint.
required light.

I don't think the problem has anything to do with the plugs, wires, 
injectors, or fuel pump as any of those items should throw a code.

I thought about a wheel ballance problem, but the problem should not go
away when holding a steady speed.  He's also had the tires ballanced to
try and correct the problem to no avail.

My diagnostic skill are starting to dwain, I think.  So I thought I'd come to
the well of knowledge and see if anyone had any idea of where to look or
what to look for.

TIA

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  2 09:29:00 2016
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
	"John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160702105458.04bc5790@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 11:13:54 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My first guess is a broken motor mount.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
> When he accelerates above 50 MPH the car vibrates.  He took me for a test 
> ride, and it is very previlant.  You feel it through the entire car.
>
> As soon as he quits accelerating the ride smooths out.  As long as he is 
> hold
> a constant speed everything if fine.  But if he trys to accelerate the 
> vibration starts back up.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160702105458.04bc5790@cox.net>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2016 15:25:26 +0000
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2213752763114957204==

--001a113d1c54ff9b290536a8b646

I'd have a look at the drivetrain...specifically axles and CV joints.

On Sat, Jul 2, 2016, 11:13 John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

> Shop content: a neighbor came into my shop (garage) and asked me a
> question about his 2004 Honda Accord with about 87,000 mi on it.
>
> When he accelerates above 50 MPH the car vibrates.  He took me for a
> test ride, and it is very previlant.  You feel it through the entire car.
>
> As soon as he quits accelerating the ride smooths out.  As long as he is
> hold
> a constant speed everything if fine.  But if he trys to accelerate
> the vibration starts back up.
>
> The check engine light is **not** on.  The only light that is on is the
> maint.
> required light.
>
> I don't think the problem has anything to do with the plugs, wires,
> injectors, or fuel pump as any of those items should throw a code.
>
> I thought about a wheel ballance problem, but the problem should not go
> away when holding a steady speed.  He's also had the tires ballanced to
> try and correct the problem to no avail.
>
> My diagnostic skill are starting to dwain, I think.  So I thought I'd come
> to
> the well of knowledge and see if anyone had any idea of where to look or
> what to look for.
>
> TIA
>
> John
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>            48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>       75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                         65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
>  From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>       e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>       In God We Trust
>       Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                    oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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>
>

--001a113d1c54ff9b290536a8b646
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<p dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;d have a look at the drivetrain...specifically axles a=
nd CV joints.</p>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sat, Jul 2, 2016, 11:13 =
John T. Blair &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net">jblair1948@cox.net<=
/a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0=
 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Shop content: a neig=
hbor came into my shop (garage) and asked me a<br>
question about his 2004 Honda Accord with about 87,000 mi on it.<br>
<br>
When he accelerates above 50 MPH the car vibrates.=C2=A0 He took me for a<b=
r>
test ride, and it is very previlant.=C2=A0 You feel it through the entire c=
ar.<br>
<br>
As soon as he quits accelerating the ride smooths out.=C2=A0 As long as he =
is hold<br>
a constant speed everything if fine.=C2=A0 But if he trys to accelerate<br>
the vibration starts back up.<br>
<br>
The check engine light is **not** on.=C2=A0 The only light that is on is th=
e maint.<br>
required light.<br>
<br>
I don&#39;t think the problem has anything to do with the plugs, wires,<br>
injectors, or fuel pump as any of those items should throw a code.<br>
<br>
I thought about a wheel ballance problem, but the problem should not go<br>
away when holding a steady speed.=C2=A0 He&#39;s also had the tires ballanc=
ed to<br>
try and correct the problem to no avail.<br>
<br>
My diagnostic skill are starting to dwain, I think.=C2=A0 So I thought I&#3=
9;d come to<br>
the well of knowledge and see if anyone had any idea of where to look or<br=
>
what to look for.<br>
<br>
TIA<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
<br>
John T. Blair=C2=A0 WA4OHZ=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0email:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailt=
o:jblair1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net</a><br>
Va. Beach, Va=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=
 Phone:=C2=A0 (757) 495-8229<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A048 TR1800=C2=A0 =C2=A0 48 #4 Midge=
t=C2=A0 =C2=A0 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)=C2=A0 =C2=A0 77 Spitfire=C2=A0=
 =C2=A0 71 Saab Sonett III<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 65 Rambler Classic<br>
<br>
Morgan:=C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/www/morgan" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer" target=3D"_blank">www.team.net/www/morgan</a><br>
Bricklin:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org" rel=3D"noreferrer" targ=
et=3D"_blank">www.bricklin.org</a><br>
<br>
If you can read this=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0- Thank=
 a teacher!<br>
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!<br>
<br>
=C2=A0From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many, one.&quot;<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 In God We Trust<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Liberty - the=C2=A0 power=C2=A0 of=C2=A0 choosing,=C2=
=A0 thinking,=C2=A0 and=C2=A0 acting=C2=A0 for<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0onesel=
f; freedom=C2=A0 from=C2=A0 control=C2=A0 or=C2=A0 restriction<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
---<br>
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.<br>
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_______________________________________________<br>
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  2 10:30:22 2016
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From: Gpd4 <gpd4@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 11:28:59 -0400
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160702105458.04bc5790@cox.net>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bad CV joint or whatever the drivetrain joint is on that vehicle.

GPD4
Sent from my iPhone


> On Jul 2, 2016, at 11:02 AM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:
> 
> Shop content: a neighbor came into my shop (garage) and asked me a question about his 2004 Honda Accord with about 87,000 mi on it.
> 
> When he accelerates above 50 MPH the car vibrates.  He took me for a test ride, and it is very previlant.  You feel it through the entire car.
> 
> As soon as he quits accelerating the ride smooths out.  As long as he is hold
> a constant speed everything if fine.  But if he trys to accelerate the vibration starts back up.
> 
> The check engine light is **not** on.  The only light that is on is the maint.
> required light.
> 
> I don't think the problem has anything to do with the plugs, wires, injectors, or fuel pump as any of those items should throw a code.
> 
> I thought about a wheel ballance problem, but the problem should not go
> away when holding a steady speed.  He's also had the tires ballanced to
> try and correct the problem to no avail.
> 
> My diagnostic skill are starting to dwain, I think.  So I thought I'd come to
> the well of knowledge and see if anyone had any idea of where to look or
> what to look for.
> 
> TIA
> 
> John
> 
> 
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
> 
>          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                       65 Rambler Classic
> 
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
> 
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
> 
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>     e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>     In God We Trust
>     Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
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> 
> 

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  2 10:53:17 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 11:19:39 -0400
 07/02/2016 11:19:42, Serialize complete at 07/02/2016 11:19:42
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============5080986653164774862==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 00574E8F85257FE4_=

OK, let me start by saying, I do NOT know what is causing this.

But that never stopped me from giving an opinion!  8>)

First, I would think of a motor/tranny mount.  They are a pain to check 
for since I have seen them 'look' fine when the engine isn't under load.

Next, balancing the tires was a good idea, but a quick check is to rotate 
them.  (Fronts to rear, crossing sides.)  Then a quick ride.  Here is my 
thinking on this...

When the car is accelerating, weight is lifted off the front tires.  It is 
possible that a misbalanced wheel could be exacerbated under these 
conditions.

Next is the front wheel alinement.  Same thinking as above, but rotating 
tires will not identify this as a problem.  Check the tires for any uneven 
wear.

Can you read the codes from the OBDCII?  Do you have a lift?  These are 
the next two things I would dig into if I couldn't get anywhere with the 
above steps.

Make sure you post the answer once it's found, I know I want to know what 
it turns out to be.

If you are near NJ, the Garage M'hal is always open for business for 
stoptalkers (and their friends.)

This weekend's project here is getting the new compressor wired and 
installed.  (Not a small feat.) So I'm here all weekend.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 00574E8F85257FE4_=


<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, let me start by saying, I do NOT
know what is causing this.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But that never stopped me from giving
an opinion! &nbsp;8&gt;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, I would think of a motor/tranny
mount. &nbsp;They are a pain to check for since I have seen them 'look'
fine when the engine isn't under load.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Next, balancing the tires was a good
idea, but a quick check is to rotate them. &nbsp;(Fronts to rear, crossing
sides.) &nbsp;Then a quick ride. &nbsp;Here is my thinking on this...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">When the car is accelerating, weight
is lifted off the front tires. &nbsp;It is possible that a misbalanced
wheel could be exacerbated under these conditions.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Next is the front wheel alinement. &nbsp;Same
thinking as above, but rotating tires will not identify this as a problem.
&nbsp;Check the tires for any uneven wear.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Can you read the codes from the OBDCII?
&nbsp;Do you have a lift? &nbsp;These are the next two things I would dig
into if I couldn't get anywhere with the above steps.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Make sure you post the answer once it's
found, I know I want to know what it turns out to be.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">If you are near NJ, the Garage M'hal
is always open for business for stoptalkers (and their friends.)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
This weekend's project here is getting the new compressor wired and installed.
&nbsp;(Not a small feat.) So I'm here all weekend.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  2 11:39:47 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2016 12:15:23 -0500
To: eric@megageek.com
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
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An easy way to check the mounts is to put cat in drive & with t
The emergency brake & foot brakes on floor it to see if the engine moves too=
 much. Try the same thing in reverse.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Jul 2, 2016, at 10:19 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:


OK, let me start by saying, I do NOT know what is causing this.=20

But that never stopped me from giving an opinion!  8>)=20

First, I would think of a motor/tranny mount.  They are a pain to check for s=
ince I have seen them 'look' fine when the engine isn't under load.=20

Next, balancing the tires was a good idea, but a quick check is to rotate th=
em.  (Fronts to rear, crossing sides.)  Then a quick ride.  Here is my think=
ing on this...=20

When the car is accelerating, weight is lifted off the front tires.  It is p=
ossible that a misbalanced wheel could be exacerbated under these conditions=
.=20

Next is the front wheel alinement.  Same thinking as above, but rotating tir=
es will not identify this as a problem.  Check the tires for any uneven wear=
.=20

Can you read the codes from the OBDCII?  Do you have a lift?  These are the n=
ext two things I would dig into if I couldn't get anywhere with the above st=
eps.=20

Make sure you post the answer once it's found, I know I want to know what it=
 turns out to be.=20

If you are near NJ, the Garage M'hal is always open for business for stoptal=
kers (and their friends.)=20

This weekend's project here is getting the new compressor wired and installe=
d.  (Not a small feat.) So I'm here all weekend.=20

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational be=
ing are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo E=
merson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
as@icloud.com


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	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>An easy way to check the mounts is to put cat in drive &amp; with t</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">The emergency brake &amp; foot brakes on floor it to see if the engine moves too much. Try the same thing in reverse.&nbsp;</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Peace,</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Jul 2, 2016, at 10:19 AM, <a href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><div>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">OK, let me start by saying, I do NOT
know what is causing this.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">But that never stopped me from giving
an opinion! &nbsp;8&gt;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">First, I would think of a motor/tranny
mount. &nbsp;They are a pain to check for since I have seen them 'look'
fine when the engine isn't under load.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Next, balancing the tires was a good
idea, but a quick check is to rotate them. &nbsp;(Fronts to rear, crossing
sides.) &nbsp;Then a quick ride. &nbsp;Here is my thinking on this...</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">When the car is accelerating, weight
is lifted off the front tires. &nbsp;It is possible that a misbalanced
wheel could be exacerbated under these conditions.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Next is the front wheel alinement. &nbsp;Same
thinking as above, but rotating tires will not identify this as a problem.
&nbsp;Check the tires for any uneven wear.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Can you read the codes from the OBDCII?
&nbsp;Do you have a lift? &nbsp;These are the next two things I would dig
into if I couldn't get anywhere with the above steps.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Make sure you post the answer once it's
found, I know I want to know what it turns out to be.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">If you are near NJ, the Garage M'hal
is always open for business for stoptalkers (and their friends.)</font>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
This weekend's project here is getting the new compressor wired and installed.
&nbsp;(Not a small feat.) So I'm here all weekend.</font>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font></div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 14:13:26 -0400
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160702105458.04bc5790@cox.net>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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On Jul 2, 2016, at 11:02 AM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

> As soon as he quits accelerating the ride smooths out.  As long as he =
is hold
> a constant speed everything if fine.  But if he trys to accelerate the =
vibration starts back up.

I concur with the CV joint or other drivetrain issue. A motormount =
usually clunks once on acceleration and then once on deceleration.

However being a FWD car, there are forces of drivetrain and wheel =
alignment that co-exist. So it could be a loose alignment item that only =
hits the loose part at 50mph, like a sail flapping in the wind as you =
steer into the wind. This really sounds like a shop needs to look at it.=20=


Does it happen at 50mph in reverse? :-)

jim=

--Apple-Mail=_DFF12394-37A9-40D0-B2B1-33E479A32CF6
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	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: =
after-white-space;"><br><div><div>On Jul 2, 2016, at 11:02 AM, John T. =
Blair &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt;=
 wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;">As soon as he quits accelerating the =
ride smooths out. &nbsp;As long as he is hold</span><br =
style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; =
font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; =
orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: =
none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; display: inline =
!important;">a constant speed everything if fine. &nbsp;But if he trys =
to accelerate the vibration starts back up.</span><br =
style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;"></blockquote></div><br><div>I =
concur with the CV joint or other drivetrain issue. A motormount usually =
clunks once on acceleration and then once on =
deceleration.</div><div><br></div><div>However being a FWD car, there =
are forces of drivetrain and wheel alignment that co-exist. So it could =
be a loose alignment item that only hits the loose part at 50mph, like a =
sail flapping in the wind as you steer into the wind. This really sounds =
like a shop needs to look at it.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Does it =
happen at 50mph in reverse? =
:-)</div><div><br></div><div>jim</div></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  2 15:31:39 2016
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 <9D9B73AC-7BCE-4A0B-A957-5C4B8483D9D0@groupwbench.org>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 14:07:08 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Honda car question
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> However being a FWD car, there are forces of drivetrain and wheel
> alignment that co-exist. So it could be a loose alignment item that only
> hits the loose part at 50mph, like a sail flapping in the wind as you
> steer into the wind. This really sounds like a shop needs to look at it.

Could be engine mount.  Also something severely worn/broken in the 
steering and suspension that allows the wheels to move around when 
they're pulling forward on the suspension members, steering rack, tie 
rod ends, etc.   Possibly a CV.

Jhn.



_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  8 13:28:45 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2016 20:01:01 -0400
 07/05/2016 20:00:50, Serialize complete at 07/05/2016 20:00:50
Subject: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss noise
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============1076222406146989424==

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OK, so this past weekend I got to hooking up my new Eaton air compressor. 
It's totally amazing, BTW.

But one thing I did was to record it next to my old Delivbiss 6.5HP. 
Unfortunately, the camera's mic doesn't really showcase the difference 
that well.

Overall, the old compressor had a tinier sound.  The new Polar is a little 
quieter, but it's also throw almost twice the air!

Check out the youtube video if you want. (don't get your hopes up.)  8>)

Here is a link...
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME<

Overall, I love the Polar.  Great company, great product.  There were two 
issues with it when I got it. One was no thread sealer on the overflow 
valve (easy fix.)  The other was the automatic drain wasn't closing 
completely.  I called them and the new one was in the mail a few hours 
later at no cost.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0003344285257FE8_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, so this past weekend I got to hooking
up my new Eaton air compressor. &nbsp;It's totally amazing, BTW.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But one thing I did was to record it
next to my old Delivbiss 6.5HP. &nbsp;Unfortunately, the camera's mic doesn't
really showcase the difference that well.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Overall, the old compressor had a tinier
sound. &nbsp;The new Polar is a little quieter, but it's also throw almost
twice the air!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Check out the youtube video if you want.
(don't get your hopes up.) &nbsp;8&gt;)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Here is a link...</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&gt;</font><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME</font></a><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&lt;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Overall, I love the Polar. &nbsp;Great
company, great product. &nbsp;There were two issues with it when I got
it. One was no thread sealer on the overflow valve (easy fix.) &nbsp;The
other was the automatic drain wasn't closing completely. &nbsp;I called
them and the new one was in the mail a few hours later at no cost.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 0003344285257FE8_=--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1076222406146989424==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 10 02:59:15 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFC1D61D07.E95E19B9-ON85257FE7.0082E96A-85257FE8.00033442@mail.megageek.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2016 09:51:18 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss noise
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============6458808095360055396==
 boundary="------------B41CAE3D5791007EEC2B7FC9"

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--------------B41CAE3D5791007EEC2B7FC9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks for posting.  I'll be buying an air compressor for my new shop in 
the next year or so,  so this is timely.  The Polar looks like a nice 
setup and it sounds a lot better.

On 7/5/2016 5:01 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so this past weekend I got to hooking up my new Eaton air 
> compressor.  It's totally amazing, BTW.
>
> But one thing I did was to record it next to my old Delivbiss 6.5HP. 
>  Unfortunately, the camera's mic doesn't really showcase the 
> difference that well.
>
> Overall, the old compressor had a tinier sound.  The new Polar is a 
> little quieter, but it's also throw almost twice the air!
>
> Check out the youtube video if you want. (don't get your hopes up.)  8>)
>
> Here is a link...
> >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME<
>
> Overall, I love the Polar.  Great company, great product.  There were 
> two issues with it when I got it. One was no thread sealer on the 
> overflow valve (easy fix.)  The other was the automatic drain wasn't 
> closing completely.  I called them and the new one was in the mail a 
> few hours later at no cost.
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
>


--------------B41CAE3D5791007EEC2B7FC9
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    Thanks for posting.  I'll be buying an air compressor for my new
    shop in the next year or so,  so this is timely.  The Polar looks
    like a nice setup and it sounds a lot better.  <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/5/2016 5:01 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:OFC1D61D07.E95E19B9-ON85257FE7.0082E96A-85257FE8.00033442@mail.megageek.com"
      type="cite"><font face="sans-serif" size="2">OK, so this past
        weekend I got to hooking
        up my new Eaton air compressor.  It's totally amazing, BTW.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">But one thing I did was to record
        it
        next to my old Delivbiss 6.5HP.  Unfortunately, the camera's mic
        doesn't
        really showcase the difference that well.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">Overall, the old compressor had a
        tinier
        sound.  The new Polar is a little quieter, but it's also throw
        almost
        twice the air!</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">Check out the youtube video if
        you want.
        (don't get your hopes up.)  8&gt;)</font>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2"><br>
        Here is a link...</font>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">&gt;</font><a
        moz-do-not-send="true"
        href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME"><font
          face="sans-serif" color="blue" size="2">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME</font></a><font
        face="sans-serif" size="2">&lt;</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">Overall, I love the Polar.  Great
        company, great product.  There were two issues with it when I
        got
        it. One was no thread sealer on the overflow valve (easy fix.)
         The
        other was the automatic drain wasn't closing completely.  I
        called
        them and the new one was in the mail a few hours later at no
        cost.</font>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2"><br>
        <br>
        Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
        Eric P<br>
        "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
        rational
        being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
        Ralph
        Waldo Emerson </font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============6458808095360055396==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 11 01:16:41 2016
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 <2a6bd4ef-1f92-098b-650a-042a7e284347@frontier.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2016 05:30:42 -0400
 07/10/2016 05:30:48, Serialize complete at 07/10/2016 05:30:48
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss noise
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============6396193786490042330==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 00375C5085257FEC_=

<shameless plug mode>
Don't forget I'm selling a used compressor for cheap (anyone here can send 
me a private offer way less than ebay).

Here is the link...

>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282089885836?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
<

Free local shipping and installation! 8>)

</shameless plug mode>


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 



From:   Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
To:     shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Date:   07/10/2016 04:27 AM
Subject:        Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss 
noise
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>



Thanks for posting.  I'll be buying an air compressor for my new shop in 
the next year or so,  so this is timely.  The Polar looks like a nice 
setup and it sounds a lot better.  

On 7/5/2016 5:01 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
OK, so this past weekend I got to hooking up my new Eaton air compressor. 
 It's totally amazing, BTW. 

But one thing I did was to record it next to my old Delivbiss 6.5HP. 
 Unfortunately, the camera's mic doesn't really showcase the difference 
that well. 

Overall, the old compressor had a tinier sound.  The new Polar is a little 
quieter, but it's also throw almost twice the air! 

Check out the youtube video if you want. (don't get your hopes up.)  8>) 

Here is a link... 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME< 

Overall, I love the Polar.  Great company, great product.  There were two 
issues with it when I got it. One was no thread sealer on the overflow 
valve (easy fix.)  The other was the automatic drain wasn't closing 
completely.  I called them and the new one was in the mail a few hours 
later at no cost. 








--=_alternative 00375C5085257FEC_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">&lt;shameless plug mode&gt;</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Don't forget I'm selling a used compressor
for cheap (anyone here can send me a private offer way less than ebay).</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Here is the link...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&gt;</font><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/282089885836?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">http://www.ebay.com/itm/282089885836?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649</font></a><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&lt;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Free local shipping and installation!
8&gt;)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&lt;/shameless plug mode&gt;</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">From: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Dave Cavanaugh &lt;cavanadd@frontier.com&gt;</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">To: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Date: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">07/10/2016 04:27 AM</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Subject: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Re: [Shop-talk]
Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss noise</font>
<br><font size=1 color=#5f5f5f face="sans-serif">Sent by: &nbsp; &nbsp;
&nbsp; &nbsp;</font><font size=1 face="sans-serif">&quot;Shop-talk&quot;
&lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt;</font>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>Thanks for posting.&nbsp; I'll be buying an air compressor
for my new shop in the next year or so,&nbsp; so this is timely.&nbsp;
The Polar looks like a nice setup and it sounds a lot better.&nbsp; <br>
</font>
<br><font size=3>On 7/5/2016 5:01 PM, </font><a href=mailto:eric@megageek.com><font size=3 color=blue><u>eric@megageek.com</u></font></a><font size=3>
wrote:</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, so this past weekend I got to hooking
up my new Eaton air compressor. &nbsp;It's totally amazing, BTW.</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
But one thing I did was to record it next to my old Delivbiss 6.5HP. &nbsp;Unfortunately,
the camera's mic doesn't really showcase the difference that well.</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Overall, the old compressor had a tinier sound. &nbsp;The new Polar is
a little quieter, but it's also throw almost twice the air!</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Check out the youtube video if you want. (don't get your hopes up.) &nbsp;8&gt;)</font><font size=3>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Here is a link...</font><font size=3> </font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
&gt;</font><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif"><u>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDWCGN-g6ME</u></font></a><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&lt;</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Overall, I love the Polar. &nbsp;Great company, great product. &nbsp;There
were two issues with it when I got it. One was no thread sealer on the
overflow valve (easy fix.) &nbsp;The other was the automatic drain wasn't
closing completely. &nbsp;I called them and the new one was in the mail
a few hours later at no cost.</font><font size=3> </font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
<br>
</font><tt><font size=3><br>
<br>
</font></tt><tt><font size=2><br>
<br>
</font></tt>
<br>
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From: Karl Vacek <stearman809@gmail.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OFC1D61D07.E95E19B9-ON85257FE7.0082E96A-85257FE8.00033442@mail.megageek.com>
 <2a6bd4ef-1f92-098b-650a-042a7e284347@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:23:02 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJqfbcD6H6/iXFHKaiDu4KssMrTqwF5QW0LntSEj/A=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss noise
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Yes, thank you for the testimonial.  I've had a similar, nearly-new
condition DeVilbiss vertical air compressor sitting in my shop for about 15
years, but the pump was burned out when I got it.  I've looked at Eaton and
have come close to ordering an Eaton pump for my DeVilbiss, but I never met
anyone who actually bought one.

Karl

 

From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Cavanaugh
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air compressor vs. Delivbiss noise

 

Thanks for posting.  I'll be buying an air compressor for my new shop in the
next year or so,  so this is timely.  The Polar looks like a nice setup and
it sounds a lot better.  

 


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class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Yes, thank you for the testimonial.&nbsp; I&#8217;ve had a similar, =
nearly-new condition DeVilbiss vertical air compressor sitting in my =
shop for about 15 years, but the pump was burned out when I got =
it.&nbsp; I&#8217;ve looked at Eaton and have come close to ordering an =
Eaton pump for my DeVilbiss, but I never met anyone who actually bought =
one.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
A'>Karl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#44546=
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0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
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ext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf =
Of </b>Dave Cavanaugh<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton Polar air =
compressor vs. Delivbiss noise<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Thanks for posting.&nbsp; I'll be buying =
an air compressor for my new shop in the next year or so,&nbsp; so this =
is timely.&nbsp; The Polar looks like a nice setup and it sounds a lot =
better.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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	boundary="_000_BN3PR15MB07391CE4B9445573F9AC408C9A300BN3PR15MB0739namp_"

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Curious if anyone uses the non-aerosol sprayers like this? https://www.amaz=
on.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0VEGE


Been using alot of canned carb cleaner lately, and wondering if there is a =
bulk solution that might be cheaper, last longer and a littler better for t=
he environment.


They sell Brakeclean in gallon jugs from CRC, but what about "carb cleaner"=
?  Do guys just use degreaser, or some other chemical that works as well as=
 carb cleaner?


Thanks

PJ

--_000_BN3PR15MB07391CE4B9445573F9AC408C9A300BN3PR15MB0739namp_
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Curious if anyone uses the non-aerosol sprayers like this?&nbsp;<a href=
=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0V=
EGE" class=3D"OWAAutoLink" id=3D"LPlnk167138">https://www.amazon.com/Titan-=
Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0VEGE</a></p>
<br>
<p>Been using alot of canned carb cleaner lately, and wondering if there is=
 a bulk solution that might be cheaper, last longer and a littler better fo=
r the environment.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>They sell Brakeclean in gallon jugs from CRC, but what about &quot;carb =
cleaner&quot;? &nbsp;Do guys just use degreaser, or some other chemical tha=
t works as well as carb cleaner?</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>PJ</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I use that sprayer with panel prep solvent, it works great.

I=E2=80=99ve not seen carb cleaner in bulk, other than the kind meant to =
soak parts in.  Usually spray carb cleaner is pretty aggressive stuff, =
it might eat the paint off of the sprayer.

-Darrell

> On Jul 11, 2016, at 5:23 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> =
wrote:
>=20
> Curious if anyone uses the non-aerosol sprayers like this? =
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0VEGE=
 =
<https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0VEG=
E>
> Been using alot of canned carb cleaner lately, and wondering if there =
is a bulk solution that might be cheaper, last longer and a littler =
better for the environment.
>=20
> They sell Brakeclean in gallon jugs from CRC, but what about "carb =
cleaner"?  Do guys just use degreaser, or some other chemical that works =
as well as carb cleaner?
>=20
> Thanks
> PJ
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <http://www.team.net/forums>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>I use that sprayer with =
panel prep solvent, it works great.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I=E2=80=99ve not seen carb cleaner in =
bulk, other than the kind meant to soak parts in. &nbsp;Usually spray =
carb cleaner is pretty aggressive stuff, it might eat the paint off of =
the sprayer.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">-Darrell</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D""><div><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On =
Jul 11, 2016, at 5:23 PM, PJ McGarvey &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com" =
class=3D"">pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: =
none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-size: 12pt; background-color: =
rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" =
class=3D"">Curious if anyone uses the non-aerosol sprayers like =
this?&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B0=
0KZ0VEGE" class=3D"OWAAutoLink" =
id=3D"LPlnk167138">https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sp=
rayer/dp/B00KZ0VEGE</a></div><br class=3D""><div style=3D"margin-top: =
0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" class=3D"">Been using alot of canned carb =
cleaner lately, and wondering if there is a bulk solution that might be =
cheaper, last longer and a littler better for the environment.</div><div =
style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" =
class=3D"">They sell Brakeclean in gallon jugs from CRC, but what about =
"carb cleaner"? &nbsp;Do guys just use degreaser, or some other chemical =
that works as well as carb cleaner?</div><div style=3D"margin-top: 0px; =
margin-bottom: 0px;" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" class=3D"">Thanks</div><div=
 style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;" =
class=3D"">PJ</div></div><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
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widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;" =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________</span><br =
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners
Thread-Index: AQHR29On/ly81ESrd0+27dP1vZKRHqAVRG4S
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 20:45:41 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I use a product similar to this, only in a 5 gal bucket.


https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSME=
L2A/ref=3Dsr_1_fkmr1_3?s=3Dautomotive&ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1468356105&sr=3D1-3-f=
kmr1&keywords=3Dcrc+carb+cleaner


Bulk liquid, with a basket for parts. Take the carb completely apart, and t=
otally submerge for a couple of hours, then rinse with water and blow dry. =
I get it as industrial strength as I can, which isn't much these days.


Brian


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of PJ McGarvey=
 <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 6:23 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners


Curious if anyone uses the non-aerosol sprayers like this? https://www.amaz=
on.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0VEGE


Been using alot of canned carb cleaner lately, and wondering if there is a =
bulk solution that might be cheaper, last longer and a littler better for t=
he environment.


They sell Brakeclean in gallon jugs from CRC, but what about "carb cleaner"=
?  Do guys just use degreaser, or some other chemical that works as well as=
 carb cleaner?


Thanks

PJ

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>I use a product similar to this, only in a 5 gal bucket.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><a id=3D"LPlnk539130" href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-=
Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A/ref=3Dsr_1_fkmr1_3?s=3Dautomotive&amp;=
ie=3DUTF8&amp;qid=3D1468356105&amp;sr=3D1-3-fkmr1&amp;keywords=3Dcrc&#43;ca=
rb&#43;cleaner" class=3D"OWAAutoLink">https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-=
Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A/ref=3Dsr_1_fkmr1_3?s=3Dautomotive=
&amp;ie=3DUTF8&amp;qid=3D1468356105&amp;sr=3D1-3-fkmr1&amp;keywords=3Dcrc&#=
43;carb&#43;cleaner</a></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Bulk liquid, with a basket for parts. Take the carb completely apart, an=
d totally submerge for a couple of hours, then rinse with water and blow dr=
y. I get it as industrial strength as I can, which isn't much these days.</=
p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Brian<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" color=
=3D"#000000" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-t=
alk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of PJ McGarvey &lt;pj_mcgarvey@hot=
mail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 11, 2016 6:23 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Non-aerosol sprayer/carb cleaners</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>Curious if anyone uses the non-aerosol sprayers like this?&nbsp;<a href=
=3D"https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0V=
EGE" class=3D"OWAAutoLink" id=3D"LPlnk167138">https://www.amazon.com/Titan-=
Tools-19424-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B00KZ0VEGE</a></p>
<br>
<p>Been using alot of canned carb cleaner lately, and wondering if there is=
 a bulk solution that might be cheaper, last longer and a littler better fo=
r the environment.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>They sell Brakeclean in gallon jugs from CRC, but what about &quot;carb =
cleaner&quot;? &nbsp;Do guys just use degreaser, or some other chemical tha=
t works as well as carb cleaner?</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>PJ</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 18 21:48:55 2016
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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2016 19:00:32 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Router question
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This is shop related because I'm looking to provide connectivity to my new barn.  Presently I have a DSL modem supplied by a slow DSL line, but the modem includes WiFi.  The location is relatively remote but better speeds are available from the local cable provider (Charter/Spectrum).  The cable provider indicates WiFi capability is available for an additional $5/month, which seems high to me.  What issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own WiFi-capable modem?
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 09:35:03 +0100
To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>,shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
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5USD a month is a rip-off - in this day and age wireless should be standard - here in the uk it has been for 10 years. 
Some routers can be used just as access points - assuming the old router has LAN ports, disable DHCP on the old wireless router, assign an IP address to it that is consistent with the numbering of new router (and does not conflict) and just connect one of the LAN ports of the old router to one on the new router. Worst case, if that doesn't work, just buy a separate wireless router/access point

On 19 July 2016 00:00:32 BST, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:
>This is shop related because I'm looking to provide connectivity to my
>new barn.  Presently I have a DSL modem supplied by a slow DSL line,
>but the modem includes WiFi.  The location is relatively remote but
>better speeds are available from the local cable provider
>(Charter/Spectrum).  The cable provider indicates WiFi capability is
>available for an additional $5/month, which seems high to me.  What
>issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own
>WiFi-capable modem?
>Sent from my iPhone
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry@talktalk.net

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<html><head></head><body>5USD a month is a rip-off - in this day and age wireless should be standard - here in the uk it has been for 10 years. <br>
Some routers can be used just as access points - assuming the old router has LAN ports, disable DHCP on the old wireless router, assign an IP address to it that is consistent with the numbering of new router (and does not conflict) and just connect one of the LAN ports of the old router to one on the new router. Worst case, if that doesn&#39;t work, just buy a separate wireless router/access point<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On 19 July 2016 00:00:32 BST, Jim Juhas &lt;james.f.juhas@snet.net&gt; wrote:<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<pre class="k9mail">This is shop related because I'm looking to provide connectivity to my new barn.  Presently I have a DSL modem supplied by a slow DSL line, but the modem includes WiFi.  The location is relatively remote but better speeds are available from the local cable provider (Charter/Spectrum).  The cable provider indicates WiFi capability is available for an additional $5/month, which seems high to me.  What issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own WiFi-capable modem?<br />Sent from my iPhone<br /><hr /><br /><br />Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br />Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br />Suggested annual donation  $12.96<br />Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br />Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br />Unsubscribe/Manage: <a
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry@talktalk.net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry@talktalk.net</a><br /><br /></pre></blockquote></div><br>
-- <br>
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 07:32:40 -0400
To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 7:00 PM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:
> What issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own WiFi-capable modem?

I have Charter as my ISP, and have used my own separate cable modem
and wireless router for years.  I've saved enough money to have paid
for them several times over... especially since my wireless was a
refurbished unit for $20.  (Modem was also refurbished, and around $60
when a new version was over $100.)

Just make sure your modem is DOCSIS compliant and you should be fine.
 It likely will be, but you can call Charter to make sure the
particular one you are thinking of using will be compatible.  I
believe DOCSIS 3.1 is the current standard, but mine is 3.0 and still
works well enough (and fast enough) for me.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Router question
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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	boundary="_000_DM3PR13MB05382A45E9F1E017CC645F5EB4370DM3PR13MB0538namp_"

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If and when you provide your own modem/charter for use with your charter IS=
P, be damn certain to keep track of your proof of all of this, included any=
 and all conversations/correspondence with charter and your receipt(s) if y=
ou buy your own equipment.


I had been using my own router/modem for years when all of a sudden charter=
 sends me a bill for X amount of money for modem/router rental over the pas=
t X number of months/years. Needless to say I was irate. I did get it sorte=
d out but it took several phone calls and a lot of time. I'd switch ISPs bu=
t have no other options except through my satellite and that is not a viabl=
e option for us. I don't even have phone lines in my house any more...not t=
hat I'd want to go backwards to DSL.


I hope no one else has to go through this.

tim

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Jeff Scarbr=
ough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2016 6:32 AM
To: Jim Juhas
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question

On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 7:00 PM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:
> What issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own WiFi-cap=
able modem?

I have Charter as my ISP, and have used my own separate cable modem
and wireless router for years.  I've saved enough money to have paid
for them several times over... especially since my wireless was a
refurbished unit for $20.  (Modem was also refurbished, and around $60
when a new version was over $100.)

Just make sure your modem is DOCSIS compliant and you should be fine.
 It likely will be, but you can call Charter to make sure the
particular one you are thinking of using will be compatible.  I
believe DOCSIS 3.1 is the current standard, but mine is 3.0 and still
works well enough (and fast enough) for me.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________



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<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>If and when you provide your own modem/charter for use with your charter=
 ISP, be damn certain to keep track of your proof of all of this, included =
any and all conversations/correspondence with charter and your receipt(s) i=
f you buy your own equipment.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I had been using my own router/modem for years when all of a sudden char=
ter sends me a bill for X amount of money for modem/router rental over the =
past X number of months/years. Needless to say I was irate. I did get it so=
rted out but it took several phone
 calls and a lot of time. I'd switch ISPs but have no other options except =
through my satellite and that is not a viable option for us. I don't even h=
ave phone lines in my house any more...not that I'd want to go backwards to=
 DSL.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I hope no one else has to go through this.&nbsp;</p>
tim<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" =
color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-=
talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough &lt;fishplate@=
gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 19, 2016 6:32 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Juhas<br>
<b>Cc:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Router question</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;">
<div class=3D"PlainText">On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 7:00 PM, Jim Juhas &lt;jam=
es.f.juhas@snet.net&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; What issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own WiFi-=
capable modem?<br>
<br>
I have Charter as my ISP, and have used my own separate cable modem<br>
and wireless router for years.&nbsp; I've saved enough money to have paid<b=
r>
for them several times over... especially since my wireless was a<br>
refurbished unit for $20.&nbsp; (Modem was also refurbished, and around $60=
<br>
when a new version was over $100.)<br>
<br>
Just make sure your modem is DOCSIS compliant and you should be fine.<br>
&nbsp;It likely will be, but you can call Charter to make sure the<br>
particular one you are thinking of using will be compatible.&nbsp; I<br>
believe DOCSIS 3.1 is the current standard, but mine is 3.0 and still<br>
works well enough (and fast enough) for me.<br>
<br>
Jeff Scarbrough<br>
Corrosion Acres, Ga.<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 08:08:49 -0500
References: <9E09266D-DEAB-42AE-BD14-547E58E598CE@snet.net>
To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> On Jul 18, 2016, at 18:00, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:
> 
> This is shop related because I'm looking to provide connectivity to my new barn.  Presently I have a DSL modem supplied by a slow DSL line, but the modem includes WiFi.  The location is relatively remote but better speeds are available from the local cable provider (Charter/Spectrum).  The cable provider indicates WiFi capability is available for an additional $5/month, which seems high to me.  What issues do I have by simply adding (or substituting?) my own WiFi-capable modem?
> Sent from my iPhone
> _

Get seperate devices for wifi and cable modem. Consumer grade wifi devices are garbage, and fail frequently. Having them separate makes it easier to replace them, or upgrade rhem. 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 19 10:38:08 2016
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Tim .'" <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <9E09266D-DEAB-42AE-BD14-547E58E598CE@snet.net>,
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Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2016 10:33:48 -0400
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Look at the Ubiquiti Networks line of products. Great stuff. It is pretty
much all we use now in our business. We are in the computer services
business.

 

Great range. Lots of sight to sight stuff.

 

Good products.

 

Tony Vaccaro

 


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Look at the =
</span><b><span lang=3DEN =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'>U=
biquiti Networks line of products. Great stuff. It is pretty much all we =
use now in our business. We are in the computer services =
business.<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'><=
o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></b></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'>G=
reat range. Lots of sight to sight stuff.<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'><=
o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></b></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'>G=
ood products.<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'><=
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style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#666666'>T=
ony Vaccaro</span></b><span =
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an></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 19 15:28:09 2016
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
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I second the positive feedback for Ubiquiti Networks products.

I have deployed 3 Ubiquiti WiFi access points in my house/shop and they work well. I have two hard-wired in the house; the 3rd is in the shop (about 100 feet from the house), connected wirelessly to one of the hard-wired units in the house, so there was no need to run a wire from the main house to the shop to get WiFi out there. And the best part is that they are POI (Power over Ethernet) so you only have to run an ethernet cable from your home router/switch to each unit (or to an electrical outlet if connected wirelessly); a POI adapter comes with every access point. The ones I use are the Long Range version here: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lr/

I got mine from http://www.bhphotovideo.com (NFI) for US$99.00 each (shipping included to Canada!) which is the best price I could find.

The software that ties everything together is a free download from Ubiquiti's site. From the dashboard you setup the whole network and can monitor all the client connections and device status. The only downside is that to get the most out of an Ubiquiti setup you should have a server that runs 24/7 that will gather stats and run guest portals, etc. A great write up on the system and software can be found here http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/10/review-ubiquiti-unifi-made-me-realize-how-terrible-consumer-wi-fi-gear-is/

I also understand they have come out with a version directed at home users. See http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/05/ubiquiti-aims-squarely-at-home-networking-with-new-amplifi-802-11ac-gear/ and https://www.amplifi.com/ . The B&H Photo site mentioned above has the system available for purchase.

John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada

On July 19, 2016 10:33:48 AM Tony Vaccaro wrote:
> Look at the Ubiquiti Networks line of products. Great stuff. It is pretty
> much all we use now in our business. We are in the computer services
> business.
> 
>  
> 
> Great range. Lots of sight to sight stuff.
> 
>  
> 
> Good products.
> 
>  
> 
> Tony Vaccaro
> 
>  
> 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore. I =
removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of wha=
t appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/str=
ing) then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I found was a st=
eering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess=
. I tried acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't g=
et rid of it all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance of da=
maging the material that the wheel is made of.


Thoughts please on what might work safely?

Thanks

tim

--_000_DM3PR13MB05384A167250FA2C4F57AAC4B40A0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
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ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore.=
&nbsp;I removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layer=
s of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with th=
read/string) then another layer of the
 electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no cracks (s=
weet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it=
 started to cut the sticky it really didn't get rid of it all the way. I al=
so really don't want to take the
 chance of damaging the material that the wheel is made of.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thoughts please on what might work safely?&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============2854652632211403610==--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: sticky mess removal
Thread-Index: AQHR5Aqc+PdjBU5YJky+ZeAOLqiTfKAlQ3Yo
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2016 01:59:19 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
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--===============3937439192852843016==
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I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore. I =
removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of wha=
t appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/str=
ing) then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I found was a st=
eering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess=
. I tried acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't g=
et rid of it all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance of da=
maging the material that the wheel is made of.


Thoughts please on what might work safely?

Thanks

tim

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538D1431E28184C4DE63C68B40B0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
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ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore.=
&nbsp;I removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layer=
s of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with th=
read/string) then another layer of the
 electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no cracks (s=
weet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it=
 started to cut the sticky it really didn't get rid of it all the way. I al=
so really don't want to take the
 chance of damaging the material that the wheel is made of.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thoughts please on what might work safely?&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538D1431E28184C4DE63C68B40B0DM3PR13MB0538namp_--

--===============3937439192852843016==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3937439192852843016==--

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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2016 00:42:27 -0400
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop  Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I find that WD-40 is actually pretty good as an adhesive 
remover.  When the adhesive is gone, you will have to do some 
additional washing to get rid of the WD-40, but soap and water should 
take care of that.

-Steve

At 07:21 AM 7/22/2016, Tim . wrote:
>Content-Language: en-US
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> 
>boundary="_000_DM3PR13MB05384A167250FA2C4F57AAC4B40A0DM3PR13MB0538namp_"
>
>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to 
>salvage/restore. I removed a layer of what I think was electrical 
>tape, then two layers of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff 
>that is reinforced with thread/string) then another layer of the 
>electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no 
>cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried 
>acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't get 
>rid of it all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance 
>of damaging the material that the wheel is made of.
>
>
>Thoughts please on what might work safely?
>
>Thanks
>
>tim

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 24 07:33:28 2016
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To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DM3PR13MB05384A167250FA2C4F57AAC4B40A0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2016 21:52:47 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.2.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2382813737198264401==
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--------------C4450C1319C0468B54F47B85
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I've had good luck with Gojo hand cleaner cleaning adhesive goo off 
rubber trim.  Since it is designed to clean your hands and be safe on 
skin, I would guess it will be safe for the wheel.

Brian

On 7/22/2016 4:21 AM, Tim . wrote:
>
> I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to 
> salvage/restore. I removed a layer of what I think was electrical 
> tape, then two layers of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff 
> that is reinforced with thread/string) then another layer of the 
> electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no 
> cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried 
> acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't get 
> rid of it all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance of 
> damaging the material that the wheel is made of.
>
>
> Thoughts please on what might work safely?
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>


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    I've had good luck with Gojo hand cleaner cleaning adhesive goo off
    rubber trim.  Since it is designed to clean your hands and be safe
    on skin, I would guess it will be safe for the wheel.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/22/2016 4:21 AM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:DM3PR13MB05384A167250FA2C4F57AAC4B40A0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} --></style>
      <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper"
style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;background-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
        <p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to
          salvage/restore. I removed a layer of what I think was
          electrical tape, then two layers of what appeared to be
          medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/string)
          then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I found
          was a steering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated
          in a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it started to
          cut the sticky it really didn't get rid of it all the way. I
          also really don't want to take the chance of damaging the
          material that the wheel is made of. </p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>Thoughts please on what might work safely? </p>
        <p>Thanks</p>
        <p>tim</p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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--===============2382813737198264401==--

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From: "Mark Watson" <watsonm05@comcast.net>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DM3PR13MB05384A167250FA2C4F57AAC4B40A0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM3PR13MB0538D1431E28184C4DE63C68B40B0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2016 07:57:36 -0400
Importance: Normal
 0iCBrFmxR8EP0PtFktqF9LP5LvfrWnksS0TJNaK77q5UC9wIN4Oc+LQPIcn4VdTZz/ThR/devfPsdQ==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00FA_01D1E581.0ADC32C0"

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------=_NextPart_000_00FA_01D1E581.0ADC32C0
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Tim,

    Goo-Gone? :http://googone.com/Home

    According to their web-site it=E2=80=99ll even get rid of in-laws =
and bad music.  I never thought of using it for those . . .

Mark

From: Tim .=20
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 9:59 PM
To: Shop Talk=20
Subject: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal



I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore. =
I removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers =
of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with =
thread/string) then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I =
found was a steering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in =
a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it started to cut the =
sticky it really didn't get rid of it all the way. I also really don't =
want to take the chance of damaging the material that the wheel is made =
of.=20



Thoughts please on what might work safely?=20

Thanks

tim



-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------


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	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} --></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Tim,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Goo-Gone? :<A title=3Dhttp://googone.com/Home=20
href=3D"http://googone.com/Home">http://googone.com/Home</A></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT face=3DArial>According to their web-site =
it=E2=80=99ll even=20
get rid of in-laws and bad music.&nbsp; I never thought of using it for =
those .=20
. .</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Mark</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=3Dtims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com=20
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">Tim .</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 22, 2016 9:59 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dshop-talk@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop Talk</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV id=3Ddivtagdefaultwrapper=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
calibri,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; COLOR: #000000; BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff">
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<DIV style=3D"COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">
<DIV>
<DIV id=3Ddivtagdefaultwrapper=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
calibri,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; COLOR: #000000; BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff">
<P>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to =
salvage/restore. I=20
removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of =
what=20
appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with =
thread/string)=20
then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I found was a =
steering=20
wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I =
tried=20
acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't get rid =
of it=20
all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance of damaging the =

material that the wheel is made of. </P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P>Thoughts please on what might work safely? </P>
<P>Thanks</P>
<P>tim</P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P>
<HR>

<P><FONT size=3D2 =
face=3DArial></FONT></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============6817671370843035593==--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: sticky mess removal
Thread-Index: AQHR5Aqc+PdjBU5YJky+ZeAOLqiTfKAnhSby
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2016 12:27:35 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Great ideas suggested. Thanks guys.


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 6:21 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal


I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore. I =
removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of wha=
t appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/str=
ing) then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I found was a st=
eering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess=
. I tried acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't g=
et rid of it all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance of da=
maging the material that the wheel is made of.


Thoughts please on what might work safely?

Thanks

tim

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538A440E190E48ACE8CFA43B40C0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Great ideas suggested. Thanks guys.&nbsp;</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 22, 2016 6:21 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore.=
&nbsp;I removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layer=
s of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with th=
read/string) then another layer of the
 electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no cracks (s=
weet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it=
 started to cut the sticky it really didn't get rid of it all the way. I al=
so really don't want to take the
 chance of damaging the material that the wheel is made of.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thoughts please on what might work safely?&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538A440E190E48ACE8CFA43B40C0DM3PR13MB0538namp_--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0192028899508652100==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 24 10:24:33 2016
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2016 13:11:41 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, 
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DM3PR13MB05384A167250FA2C4F57AAC4B40A0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM3PR13MB0538D1431E28184C4DE63C68B40B0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 boundary="----=_Part_47602316_108908698.1469365901333"
Thread-Topic: sticky mess removal
Thread-Index: AQHR5Aqc+PdjBU5YJky+ZeAOLqiTfKAlQ3YoWAMTtT0=
 mYjqvTAm9Jiwd58oWeMdY2QYTwuZDnbUCVXq6ynEw/mHg47lAB+A/C1zhEIFfGzOAkzEoIiNQcCOVzQXCpakBI+enjeH3LBl/lVkkb52Cu7xujFyP2DBz3P9
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

------=_Part_47602316_108908698.1469365901333
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<html><body><font face="Helvetica">3M Adhesive Remover is the bomb (red and white can).<br><br>It can't be sold in California--but I've bought it online--so you know it's good stuff.<br><br>Bob<br><br><br>Sent from Xfinity Connect Mobile App</font><blockquote><br>------ Original Message ------<br><br><b>From: </b>Tim .<br><b>To: </b>Shop Talk<br><b>Sent: </b>July 24, 2016 at 1:20 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Shop-talk] sticky mess removal</blockquote><blockquote><html><html>
<head>

<style style="display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir="ltr">
<div id="divtagdefaultwrapper" style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;background-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p><br>
</p>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div>
<div id="divtagdefaultwrapper" style="font-size:12pt; color:#000000; background-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore.&nbsp;I removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/string) then another layer of the
 electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn&#39;t get rid of it all the way. I also really don&#39;t want to take the
 chance of damaging the material that the wheel is made of.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thoughts please on what might work safely?&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>
<html><body>_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

<br><br></body></html></html></blockquote></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 24 23:21:45 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2016 17:05:50 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2463369092583136778==

----__JWM__J47c1cb29.2024180fS.64e2011aM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

 Goo Gone? =


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>


3M Adhesive Remover is the bomb (red and white can).

------ Original Message ------

From: Tim .
To: Shop Talk
Sent: July 24, 2016 at 1:20 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal =

I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore.=
 .....a sticky ass mess. =

 =

Thoughts please on what might work safely? =

Thanks
tim

----__JWM__J47c1cb29.2024180fS.64e2011aM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Goo Gone?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Bob Spidell=
 &lt;bspidell@comcast.net&gt;<br><br></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica;">3M Adhesive Remover is the bo=
mb (red and white can).</span></p>
<blockquote><br>------ Original Message ------<br><br><strong>From: </st=
rong>Tim .<br><strong>To: </strong>Shop Talk<br><strong>Sent: </strong>J=
uly 24, 2016 at 1:20 AM<br><strong>Subject: </strong>[Shop-talk] sticky =
mess removal</blockquote>
<blockquote>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size: 12pt; color: #00000=
0; background-color: #ffffff; font-family: Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-=
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div style=3D"color: #000000;">
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size: 12pt; color: #00000=
0; background-color: #ffffff; font-family: Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-=
serif;">
<p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/resto=
re. .....a sticky ass mess.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thoughts please on what might work safely?&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></html>

----__JWM__J47c1cb29.2024180fS.64e2011aM--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Thread-Index: AQHR5Aqc+PdjBU5YJky+ZeAOLqiTfKAlQ3YogAI5lwCAAFcmew==
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0018637284840761886==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_DM3PR13MB0538A268E7A073551787BC65B40C0DM3PR13MB0538namp_"

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538A268E7A073551787BC65B40C0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was looking for suggestions and hoped for items I had at the house. WD40 =
and dish soap I have. I know of googone but don't want to buy anything. (I =
am in hard core cheap ass mode right now.)


Thanks again all

tim

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Mark Watson=
 <watsonm05@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2016 6:57 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal

Tim,

    Goo-Gone? :http://googone.com/Home
[http://googone.com/getattachment/28c78414-bdf7-4466-a528-1fedc518d871/Test=
.aspx]<http://googone.com/Home>

Home - Goo Gone<http://googone.com/Home>
googone.com
Goo Gone products are excellent at removing gooey, gummy messes without har=
ming your surfaces. See all our products and learn more.



    According to their web-site it'll even get rid of in-laws and bad music=
.  I never thought of using it for those . . .

Mark

Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 9:59 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal




I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore. I =
removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of wha=
t appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/str=
ing) then another layer of the electrical tape stuff. What I found was a st=
eering wheel with no cracks (sweet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess=
. I tried acetone and while it started to cut the sticky it really didn't g=
et rid of it all the way. I also really don't want to take the chance of da=
maging the material that the wheel is made of.



Thoughts please on what might work safely?

Thanks

tim

________________________________

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538A268E7A073551787BC65B40C0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>I was looking for suggestions and hoped for items I had at the house. WD=
40 and dish soap I have. I know of googone but don't want to buy anything. =
(I am in hard core cheap ass mode right now.)</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks again all</p>
<p>tim</p>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Mark Watson &lt;watsonm05@comcas=
t.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, July 24, 2016 6:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-size:10pt; font-family:'Arial'; color:#000000">
<div>Tim,</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Goo-Gone? :<a title=3D"http://googone.com/Home" hre=
f=3D"http://googone.com/Home" id=3D"LPlnk18391">http://googone.com/Home</a>=
</div>
<div id=3D"LPBorder_GT_14693801786350.9292584685432581" style=3D"margin-bot=
tom: 20px; overflow: auto; width: 100%; text-indent: 0px;">
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px; padding-bottom: 20px; margin-top: 20px; border-top-width: 1px; border-t=
op-style: dotted; border-top-color: rgb(200, 200, 200); border-bottom-width=
: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(200, 200, 200)=
; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
<tbody>
<tr valign=3D"top" style=3D"border-spacing: 0px;">
<td id=3D"ImageCell_14693801786320.693466767590661" colspan=3D"1" style=3D"=
width: 250px; position: relative; display: table-cell; padding-right: 20px;=
">
<div id=3D"LPImageContainer_14693801786320.27294242598577" style=3D"height:=
 91px; position: relative; margin: auto; display: table; width: 250px; back=
ground-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
<a id=3D"LPImageAnchor_14693801786320.5811220391707896" href=3D"http://goog=
one.com/Home" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"display: table-cell; text-align: c=
enter;"><img aria-label=3D"Preview image with link selected. Double-tap to =
open the link." id=3D"LPThumbnailImageID_14693801786320.9718572751614607" w=
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; max-height: 250px; height: 92px; width: 250px; border-width: 0px; vertica=
l-align: bottom;" src=3D"http://googone.com/getattachment/28c78414-bdf7-446=
6-a528-1fedc518d871/Test.aspx"></a></div>
</td>
<td id=3D"TextCell_14693801786350.9879429901956431" colspan=3D"2" style=3D"=
vertical-align: top; position: relative; padding: 0px; display: table-cell;=
">
<div id=3D"LPRemovePreviewContainer_14693801786350.6431155679783351"></div>
<div id=3D"LPTitle_14693801786350.4320563864653624" style=3D"top: 0px; colo=
r: rgb(0, 120, 215); font-weight: normal; font-size: 21px; font-family: wf_=
segoe-ui_light, &quot;Segoe UI Light&quot;, &quot;Segoe WP Light&quot;, &qu=
ot;Segoe UI&quot;, &quot;Segoe WP&quot;, Tahoma, Arial, sans-serif; line-he=
ight: 21px;">
<a id=3D"LPUrlAnchor_14693801786350.4809769609838872" href=3D"http://googon=
e.com/Home" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"text-decoration: none;">Home - Goo G=
one</a></div>
<div id=3D"LPMetadata_14693801786350.6808072798006033" style=3D"margin: 10p=
x 0px 16px; color: rgb(102, 102, 102); font-weight: normal; font-family: wf=
_segoe-ui_normal, &quot;Segoe UI&quot;, &quot;Segoe WP&quot;, Tahoma, Arial=
, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 14px;">
googone.com</div>
<div id=3D"LPDescription_14693801786350.6062814806225483" style=3D"display:=
 block; color: rgb(102, 102, 102); font-weight: normal; font-family: wf_seg=
oe-ui_normal, &quot;Segoe UI&quot;, &quot;Segoe WP&quot;, Tahoma, Arial, sa=
ns-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; max-height: 100px; overflow: =
hidden;">
Goo Gone products are excellent at removing gooey, gummy messes without har=
ming your surfaces. See all our products and learn more.</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<br>
<div style=3D"font-size:small; text-decoration:none; font-family:&quot;Cali=
bri&quot;; font-weight:normal; color:#000000; font-style:normal; display:in=
line">
<div style=3D"font:10pt tahoma">
<div><font face=3D"Arial"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <font face=3D"Arial">According to their web-site it=
&#8217;ll even get rid of in-laws and bad music.&nbsp; I never thought of u=
sing it for those . . .</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Mark</font></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"background:#f5f5f5">
<div style=3D""><b>From:</b> <a title=3D"tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" hre=
f=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">
Tim .</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 22, 2016 9:59 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title=3D"shop-talk@autox.team.net" href=3D"mailto:shop-t=
alk@autox.team.net">
Shop Talk</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] sticky mess removal</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-size:small; text-decoration:none; font-family:&quot;Cali=
bri&quot;; font-weight:normal; color:#000000; font-style:normal; display:in=
line">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; font-family:calib=
ri,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; color:#000000; background-color:#ffffff">
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; font-family:calib=
ri,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; color:#000000; background-color:#ffffff">
<p>I have a steering wheel from the mid 60s that I want to salvage/restore.=
 I removed a layer of what I think was electrical tape, then two layers of =
what appeared to be medical tape (the stuff that is reinforced with thread/=
string) then another layer of the
 electrical tape stuff. What I found was a steering wheel with no cracks (s=
weet!) but now is coated in a sticky ass mess. I tried acetone and while it=
 started to cut the sticky it really didn't get rid of it all the way. I al=
so really don't want to take the
 chance of damaging the material that the wheel is made of. </p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thoughts please on what might work safely? </p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p></p>
<hr>
<p><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"></font></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538A268E7A073551787BC65B40C0DM3PR13MB0538namp_--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0018637284840761886==--

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2016 08:44:19 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Have you built your own house?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm toying with doing this, mostly myself. I've done a few big projects like dormers, full remodels, so I'm not green. I'm mostly curious in what you thought about the experience and the result, and would you do it again. I have read Norm Abrahms' book (which is a fun read if you haven't) as well as House by Tracy Kidder. 

thanks,
jim
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 31 05:45:27 2016
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Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2016 18:20:31 -0400
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Router question
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you to all that responded regarding my router question.  My 
solution was to use the cable company's non-wifi modem and my own simple 
Netgear router.  I now know the more sophisticated solutions should my 
requirements change, but so far, so good.
_______________________________________________
Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas@snet.net

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 31 06:03:59 2016
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Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2016 18:27:08 -0400
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding v. Rivets
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I am replacing the support rails for the bed of my 2007 F250.  (I 
thought about a bed replacement but it seems the rails are the only 
rotten parts.  NO RUST in the fender wells!)

Once the old rails are removed, my plan was to rosette-weld in the new 
ones.  But, I have the ability to use aircraft rivets, probably 3/16" 
size.  If I do this, I can seal the entire junction with silicone, as 
I've done in my FFR Roadster. Welding will leave a place for corrosion, 
but would the exposure be better or worse with the dissimilar metal of 
the rivets, aluminum v. steel?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 31 19:59:47 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2016 07:39:13 -0500
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Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Have you built your own house?
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Jim,
Building your own house is certainly possible. I've built quite a few as a house lead working with Habitat for Humanity.  I know that leading a house construction is different from doing it yourself, but it will give you an idea. I also built my shop with the help of a couple friends. 

There are several things to consider. 
How complex is your house? The more complex, the longer it will take to build it. 

How sure you will have the conviction to stick with the project through completion? The Habitat houses I build take up to 4000 man hours to build for about 1100 sq.ft. 

How are you planning to find the construction? Most banks will not fund a construction loan only if the project is built by a construction company with required licenses & insurance.  

I'll be glad to discuss any other points you are concerned about. 

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne 
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Jul 27, 2016, at 7:44 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

I'm toying with doing this, mostly myself. I've done a few big projects like dormers, full remodels, so I'm not green. I'm mostly curious in what you thought about the experience and the result, and would you do it again. I have read Norm Abrahms' book (which is a fun read if you haven't) as well as House by Tracy Kidder. 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

