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 <471E145C-8538-4B61-BDD2-296A5B9EE1CB@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2016 22:44:04 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Cc: Joe Szwed <szwedj@gmail.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Radiant heat for garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 9:51 AM, Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good to hear another who is happy with the bubble wrap.  I had never heard of putting it in the walls.  That is very interesting and something I will look into.

It's snake oil.  The radiant barrier does nothing if it's not in free
space, and there's essentially zero radiant transfer to stop in your
slab.  The bubble wrap gives it about R1.  Use real insulation.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 <56FBCD2B.5060209@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2016 09:49:50 -0500
From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blue screen problems... need the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5125102888510327196==

--001a113d011a106842052f4542e4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Has anything been installed recently?  Hardware, software, Windows update,
etc.?

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net> wrote=
:

> On 3/29/2016 8:42 PM, john niolon wrote:
>
> this week I have started getting the =E2=80=98blue screen of death=E2=80=
=99!!   Gives me
> the screen... does the dump and reboots...
>
> upon reboot I get the =E2=80=98windows had a boo-boo=E2=80=99  box with t=
he following
> information
>
> Could be anything, bad hardware or bad driver or corrupted file system or
> virus, etc.  I believe you have Windows 7.  Best advice is to boot into
> safe mode and run diagnostics/updates.
>
> If it is Win 7 consider updating to Win 10.
>
>
> *Problem signature:*
> *  Problem Event Name:    BlueScreen*
> *  OS Version:    6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.48*
> *  Locale ID:    1033*
>
> *Additional information about the problem:*
> *  BCCode:    19*
> *  BCP1:    0000000000000020*
> *  BCP2:    FFFFFA800602A590*
> *  BCP3:    FFFFFA800602A5B0*
> *  BCP4:    0000000004020008*
> *  OS Version:    6_1_7601*
> *  Service Pack:    1_0*
> *  Product:    256_1*
>
> *Files that help describe the problem:*
> *  C:\Windows\Minidump\032916-26145-01.dmp*
> *  C:\Users\User\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-94801-0.sysdata.xml*
>
> *Read our privacy statement online:*
>   *http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=3D104288&clcid=3D0x0409*
> <http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=3D104288&clcid=3D0x0409>
>
> *If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privac=
y
> statement offline:*
> *  C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt*
>
> of course all of this is just gobblede-gook to me.   I did finally get it
> to allow me to print out the minidump and have it saved if someone wants =
to
> look at it
> I used to be able to read memory dumps, but that was 30 years ago with
> mainframes and cobol...  this don=E2=80=99t look like those !
>
> any of you super guru binary/hex people give me an idea what=E2=80=99s bl=
owing up
> my pc ???   I would certainly appreciate some guidance...  I can email yo=
u
> the dump if it helps
>
> thanks
> John
> (shop content... I use my computer to order tools and =E2=80=98stuff=E2=
=80=99 for my shop )
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','Shop-talk@autox.te=
am.net');>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_th=
omas@comcast.net
>
>
>

--001a113d011a106842052f4542e4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Has anything been installed recently?=C2=A0 Hardware, software, Windows upd=
ate, etc.?<br><br>On Wednesday, March 30, 2016, Peter J. Thomas &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:pj_thomas@comcast.net">pj_thomas@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px=
 #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" text=3D"#000000">
    <div>On 3/29/2016 8:42 PM, john niolon
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:&#39;Calibri&#39;;COLOR:#0=
00000">
          <div>this week I have started getting the =E2=80=98blue screen of
            death=E2=80=99!!=C2=A0=C2=A0 Gives me the screen... does the du=
mp and
            reboots...</div>
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
          <div>upon reboot I get the =E2=80=98windows had a boo-boo=E2=80=
=99=C2=A0 box with
            the following information</div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    Could be anything, bad hardware or bad driver or corrupted file
    system or virus, etc.=C2=A0 I believe you have Windows 7.=C2=A0 Best ad=
vice is
    to boot into safe mode and run diagnostics/updates.<br>
    <br>
    If it is Win 7 consider updating to Win 10.<br>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:&#39;Calibri&#39;;COLOR:#0=
00000">
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
          <div><em>Problem signature:</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 Problem Event Name:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 BlueScreen<=
/em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 OS Version:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.=
48</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 Locale ID:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 1033</em></div>
          <div><em></em>=C2=A0</div>
          <div><em>Additional information about the problem:</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 BCCode:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 19</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 BCP1:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 0000000000000020</em></di=
v>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 BCP2:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 FFFFFA800602A590</em></di=
v>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 BCP3:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 FFFFFA800602A5B0</em></di=
v>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 BCP4:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 0000000004020008</em></di=
v>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 OS Version:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 6_1_7601</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 Service Pack:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 1_0</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 Product:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 256_1</em></div>
          <div><em></em>=C2=A0</div>
          <div><em>Files that help describe the problem:</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 C:\Windows\Minidump\032916-26145-01.dmp</em></div=
>
          <div><em>=C2=A0
              C:\Users\User\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-94801-0.sysdata.xml</em>=
</div>
          <div><em></em>=C2=A0</div>
          <div><em>Read our privacy statement online:</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 </em><a href=3D"http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?l=
inkid=3D104288&amp;clcid=3D0x0409" target=3D"_blank"><em>http://go.microsof=
t.com/fwlink/?linkid=3D104288&amp;clcid=3D0x0409</em></a></div>
          <div><em></em>=C2=A0</div>
          <div><em>If the online privacy statement is not available,
              please read our privacy statement offline:</em></div>
          <div><em>=C2=A0 C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt</em></div>
          <div><em></em>=C2=A0</div>
          <div>of course all of this is just gobblede-gook to me.=C2=A0=C2=
=A0 I
            did finally get it to allow me to print out the minidump and
            have it saved if someone wants to look at it</div>
          <div>I used to be able to read memory dumps, but that was 30
            years ago with mainframes and cobol...=C2=A0 this don=E2=80=99t=
 look like
            those !=C2=A0 </div>
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
          <div>any of you super guru binary/hex people give me an idea
            what=E2=80=99s blowing up my pc ???=C2=A0=C2=A0 I would certain=
ly appreciate
            some guidance...=C2=A0 I can email you the dump if it helps</di=
v>
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
          <div>thanks</div>
          <div>John</div>
          <div>(shop content... I use my computer to order tools and
            =E2=80=98stuff=E2=80=99 for my shop )</div>
          <div><em></em>=C2=A0</div>
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre>_______________________________________________

<a href=3D"javascript:_e(%7B%7D,&#39;cvml&#39;,&#39;Shop-talk@autox.team.ne=
t&#39;);" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
//www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank">http://www=
.team.net/forums</a>
alk/pj_thomas@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/=
options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </div>

</blockquote>

--001a113d011a106842052f4542e4--

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5125102888510327196==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  2 17:26:48 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2016 20:57:12 -0500
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: rande@pobox.com, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blue screen problems... need the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============4690847901271457341==
 boundary=Apple-Mail-DAECC8B6-38A2-4BFC-817A-8629D58814ED
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-DAECC8B6-38A2-4BFC-817A-8629D58814ED
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'd try removing half the memory and run for a week. If it doesn't crash, ad=
d some memory back. If it still crashes swap out the memory for what was rem=
oved.=20

I'm not a fan of running the latest os, unless I was running vista.=20

You might also set up another user and see if it crashes.=20
Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Mar 30, 2016, at 7:10 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
=20
should I be comfortable with Win 10...   if it=E2=80=99s hardware it should f=
ollow me right ??
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-DAECC8B6-38A2-4BFC-817A-8629D58814ED
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I'd try removing half the memory and r=
un for a week. If it doesn't crash, add some memory back. If it still crashe=
s swap out the memory for what was removed.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailS=
ignature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">I'm not a fan of running t=
he latest os, unless I was running vista.&nbsp;<br><br>You might also set up=
 another user and see if it crashes.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignatur=
e">Peace,</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Pat</div><div id=3D"AppleMailS=
ignature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We su=
pport Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><b=
r>On Mar 30, 2016, at 7:10 PM, john niolon &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att=
.net">jniolon@att.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div sty=
le=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>should I be comfortable with Win 10...&nbsp;&nbsp; if it=E2=80=99s hard=
ware it=20
should follow me right ??</div></div></div>
</div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><=
span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@=
autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested ann=
ual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><=
span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/sh=
op-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-ta=
lk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4690847901271457341==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  2 17:44:49 2016
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Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2016 11:43:48 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Tony Vaccaro <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blue screen problems... need the gurus
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7849327886444128752==

--001a114e7e30723e98052f5af76d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I would think it depends a lot on the fan and what is powering that fan.
Modern CPU fans are all speed controlled, usually by a dedicated driver
chip.  Those chips are normally robust enough to withstand significant back
voltage without damage.  An increasing number of these fans are also
brushless.  As such, they develop much less voltage when spun up than a
standard DC motor would.  As long as there is no excitation voltage in the
field, they are not going to output much.  On the other hand it you have a
fixed speed Brushed DC motor case fan that is connected to the 5v rail of
the power supply you could generate significant voltage and apply it to
everything on that same 5v rail.

On Thu, Mar 31, 2016 at 10:43 AM, Tony Vaccaro <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
wrote:

>
>
>
>
> *From:* Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *John T. Blair
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 31, 2016 6:55 AM
> *To:* shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> While I see the logic in this, I have never had that thought. I have been
> working on computers for 35 years. Blown out hundreds of computers.
> Sometimes I block the fan, sometimes I don=E2=80=99t, but if I do it is o=
nly to not
> damage the fan and I just usually do it on Laptops as the fans are much
> more fragile.
>
>
>
> I have never had a computer fail to restart (which damaging the CPU would
> do) after blowing it out. My blower is super powerful and I used to use
> compressed air. I would spin those suckers right up.
>
>
>
> I would suspect there is a crowbar circuit in the CPU logic circuitry to
> prevent this from happening.
>
>
>
> I am not saying that this is not possible, just in all my years I have
> never seen it happen and I have seen most other computer related stuff
> happen. Not much I have missed.
>
>
>
> Tony V
>
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] blue screen problems... need the gurus
>
>
>
> At 10:01 PM 3/30/2016, Brian Kemp wrote:
>
> >John - You may have a dust problem.  Remove the power cord and open the
> >computer.  Take a shop vac that blows or some compressed air and clean
> things
> >out.  It is best to do this outside.
>
> John,
>
> If you blow down the inside of the computer with compressed air, put a
> finger on
> the fan on the CPU.  You don't want it to turn.  The compressed air can
> spin up
> the fan a lot faster than it is supposed to run.  So a DC motor being
> turned
> externally becomes a generator, and spinning faster then design speed
> causes it
> to output a higher voltage than it runs on.  This overvoltage is being
> applied back
> to the mother board and can back feed the CPU and cause it to fail.
>
> John
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>
>


--=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--001a114e7e30723e98052f5af76d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I would think it depends a lot on the fan and what is powe=
ring that fan.=C2=A0 Modern CPU fans are all speed controlled, usually by a=
 dedicated driver chip.=C2=A0 Those chips are normally robust enough to wit=
hstand significant back voltage without damage.=C2=A0 An increasing number =
of these fans are also brushless.=C2=A0 As such, they develop much less vol=
tage when spun up than a standard DC motor would.=C2=A0 As long as there is=
 no excitation voltage in the field, they are not going to output much.=C2=
=A0 On the other hand it you have a fixed speed Brushed DC motor case fan t=
hat is connected to the 5v rail of the power supply you could generate sign=
ificant voltage and apply it to everything on that same 5v rail.=C2=A0 <br>=
</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar=
 31, 2016 at 10:43 AM, Tony Vaccaro <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:tvacc@lotusowners.com" target=3D"_blank">tvacc@lotusowners.com</a>&gt;</sp=
an> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;=
border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"pu=
rple" lang=3D"EN-US"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
1.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&q=
uot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div styl=
e=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot=
;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;=
font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"> Shop-talk [mailto:<a href=3D"m=
ailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">shop-talk-bounces=
@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>John T. Blair<br><b>Sent:</b> Thur=
sday, March 31, 2016 6:55 AM<br><b>To:</b> shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt=
;<br>While I see the logic in this, I have never had that thought. I have b=
een working on computers for 35 years. Blown out hundreds of computers. Som=
etimes I block the fan, sometimes I don=E2=80=99t, but if I do it is only t=
o not damage the fan and I just usually do it on Laptops as the fans are mu=
ch more fragile.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=
=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt=
;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">I have never had a computer fa=
il to restart (which damaging the CPU would do) after blowing it out. My bl=
ower is super powerful and I used to use compressed air. I would spin those=
 suckers right up.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span sty=
le=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=
=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">I would suspect there is a =
crowbar circuit in the CPU logic circuitry to prevent this from happening. =
<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11=
.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span=
></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&qu=
ot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">I am not saying that this is not possible, jus=
t in all my years I have never seen it happen and I have seen most other co=
mputer related stuff happen. Not much I have missed.<u></u><u></u></span></=
p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;=
Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-s=
erif">Tony V<u></u><u></u></span></p><span class=3D""><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
"><b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-s=
erif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></b></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span st=
yle=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">Subject=
:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;=
,sans-serif"> Re: [Shop-talk] blue screen problems... need the gurus<u></u>=
<u></u></span></p></span></div></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u=
></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12.0pt">At 10:01 PM =
3/30/2016, Brian Kemp wrote:<span class=3D""><br><br>&gt;John - You may hav=
e a dust problem.=C2=A0 Remove the power cord and open the<br>&gt;computer.=
=C2=A0 Take a shop vac that blows or some compressed air and clean things <=
br>&gt;out.=C2=A0 It is best to do this outside.<br><br>John,<br><br>If you=
 blow down the inside of the computer with compressed air, put a finger on<=
br>the fan on the CPU.=C2=A0 You don&#39;t want it to turn.=C2=A0 The compr=
essed air can spin up<br>the fan a lot faster than it is supposed to run.=
=C2=A0 So a DC motor being turned <br>externally becomes a generator, and s=
pinning faster then design speed causes it<br>to output a higher voltage th=
an it runs on.=C2=A0 This overvoltage is being applied back<br>to the mothe=
r board and can back feed the CPU and cause it to fail.<br><br>John<br><br>=
<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12.0=
pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div><br>_______________________________=
________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with style =
when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=
=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
</div>

--001a114e7e30723e98052f5af76d--

--===============7849327886444128752==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============7849327886444128752==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  2 19:49:33 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2016 17:59:01 -0700
Thread-Index: AdGNO2P0hfS0lejCTLGH8+OIQLjqygABu3fw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] blue screen problems... need the gurus
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On the other hand it you have a fixed speed Brushed DC 
> motor case fan 

I've been working with computers for more decades than I care to count, since before the PC was even created; and I have _never-_
seen a computer fan with brushes.  How crazy would you have to be to deliberately mount a source of EMI not just inside your
computer case but on it's power bus if you didn't have to ??  Not to mention conductive dust from brush wear.

Randall

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  5 16:29:33 2016
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2016 08:45:21 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No droppings anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly in the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock. 

They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in the evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard them in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.

I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in. A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls. 

In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but not this time. 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  5 23:20:01 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
To: 'Jim Franklin' <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <BAEDE068-71CC-428C-AED1-89F43E4CB156@groupwbench.org>
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2016 18:15:47 -0500
Thread-index: AdGPjYxzvr3Bkk6dSMGcupPVoC4KMwAAsLqg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

3/4" space is probably mice. They can get through spaces about the size of a
dime. Rats need a hole about the size of a quarter. Squirrels need more
space than that. Where do you live?

Any chance you have a camera that could be set up in the space that has
motion detection? You can always use bait to poison them. I don't use it
often, but when I have, they left the building to die. YMMV.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Franklin
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 7:45 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?

I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually
see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No droppings
anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and a
great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly in
the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock. 

They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in
the evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard
them in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.

I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.
A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of
anythingin the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls. 

In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but not
this time. 

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com


_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <BAEDE068-71CC-428C-AED1-89F43E4CB156@groupwbench.org>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2016 19:18:56 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, 
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If it sounds like squirrels, it very likely is.  We had them in our
walls, and it sounded just like what you describe.

We got this http://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Repellent-1-Gallon-Groundhog-Herbivore/dp/B009QAPT24
 and sprayed the heck out of the side of the house.  They don't seem
to like it, and they went away.

Unfortunately, they remember where they lived and they will come back
next year, if not in the fall.  Once you chase them off, you will need
to continue to spray in the fall and spring (start early!) to convince
them that elsewhere is better.

Good luck!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 8:45 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No droppings anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly in the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.
>
> They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in the evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard them in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.
>
> I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in. A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.
>
> In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but not this time.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________

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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, 
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2016 20:30:48 -0400
Importance: normal
References: <BAEDE068-71CC-428C-AED1-89F43E4CB156@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5465151346463819870==
	boundary="_81CD8215-43C8-4D74-8D1C-24CC8BBC1A8A_"

--_81CD8215-43C8-4D74-8D1C-24CC8BBC1A8A_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sounds like bats to me.  Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.   Dr=
oppings will be at the entry points.  If it is warm where you are at, you m=
ay be able to see them come or go after dusk or just before dawn.=20
Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.
Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic. =20

Good luck,
Gordie





From: Jim Franklin
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?

I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually=
 see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropping=
s anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and=
 a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly i=
n the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.=20

They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in t=
he evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard the=
m in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.

I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.=
 A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of =
anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.=20

In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but no=
t this time.=20

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
ge@comcast.net



--_81CD8215-43C8-4D74-8D1C-24CC8BBC1A8A_
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fice/2004/12/omml" xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta ht=
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ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sounds like bats to me.=C2=A0 Only n=
eed a gap the size of a dime to get in.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Droppings will be at th=
e entry points.=C2=A0 If it is warm where you are at, you may be able to se=
e them come or go after dusk or just before dawn. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.</p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal>Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.=C2=A0 </=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Good luck,=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Gordie</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp=
;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><=
span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;=
border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal style=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:jamesf=
@groupwbench.org">Jim Franklin</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6=
:42 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@=
autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceil=
ing?</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-fam=
ily:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al>I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actua=
lly see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropp=
ings anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, =
and a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickl=
y in the 3/4&quot; space created by the strapping between joists and sheetr=
ock. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The=
y are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in the =
evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard them i=
n 2 days. Sometimes this happens.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe=
 how they are getting in. A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but=
 there is no evidence of anything in the attic, and I never hear anything i=
n the walls. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal>In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, b=
ut not this time. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal>thanks,</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>jim</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>_____=
__________________________________________</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nb=
sp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</p><p class=3DMs=
oNormal>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sug=
gested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Archive: http:/=
/www.team.net/archive</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Forums: http://www.team.net/f=
orums</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mai=
lman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage@comcast.net</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></htm=
l>=

--_81CD8215-43C8-4D74-8D1C-24CC8BBC1A8A_--


--===============5465151346463819870==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5465151346463819870==--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
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 FILETIME=[BD68A7C0:01D18FFF]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8002753261525401794==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_DM3PR13MB0538E07122ACDC38143946C4B49F0DM3PR13MB0538namp_"

--_000_DM3PR13MB0538E07122ACDC38143946C4B49F0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, as on=
e our neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.


"Droppings will be at the entry points"...I sure hope this isn't accurate. =
I have bats in my attic and there are droppings in many places.....places w=
here, if they were getting in and out, water would be as well.


tim


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Gordie Bird=
 <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 PM
To: Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?


Sounds like bats to me.  Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.   Dr=
oppings will be at the entry points.  If it is warm where you are at, you m=
ay be able to see them come or go after dusk or just before dawn.

Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.

Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.



Good luck,

Gordie











Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?



I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually=
 see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropping=
s anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and=
 a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly i=
n the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.



They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in t=
he evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard the=
m in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.



I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.=
 A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of =
anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.



In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but no=
t this time.



thanks,

jim

_______________________________________________



Shop-talk@autox.team.net



Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


ge@comcast.net





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ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, as=
 one our neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.&nbsp=
;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>&quot;<span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14.666=
7px;">Droppings will be at the entry points&quot;...I sure hope this isn't =
accurate. I have bats in my attic and there are droppings in many places...=
..places where, if they were getting in and
 out,&nbsp;water would be as well.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14.6667px;">=
<br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 14.6667px;">=
tim</span></p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Gordie Bird &lt;mg_garage@comcas=
t.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Sounds like bats to me.&nbsp; Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.=
&nbsp; &nbsp;Droppings will be at the entry points.&nbsp; If it is warm whe=
re you are at, you may be able to see them come or go after dusk or just be=
fore dawn.
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.&nbsp; </p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Good luck,</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Gordie</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,se=
rif">&nbsp;</span></p>
<div style=3D"border:none; border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt; padding:3.0pt 0i=
n 0in 0in">
<p style=3D"border: none; padding: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size=
: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
<b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" style=3D"color: blue=
; text-decoration: underline;">Jim Franklin</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" style=3D"color: blue=
; text-decoration: underline;">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>[Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</p>
</div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,se=
rif">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually=
 see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropping=
s anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and=
 a great big ruckus like two squirrels
 chasing each other, moving quickly in the 3/4&quot; space created by the s=
trapping between joists and sheetrock.
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in t=
he evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard the=
m in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.=
 A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of =
anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but no=
t this time.
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
thanks,</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
jim</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
_______________________________________________</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Shop-talk@autox.team.net</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
ge@comcast.net</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============8002753261525401794==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  6 11:51:15 2016
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To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, 
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 10:53:39 -0400
Importance: normal
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
References: <BAEDE068-71CC-428C-AED1-89F43E4CB156@groupwbench.org>,
 <20160406070127.AF362258849B@autox.team.net>
 <DM3PR13MB0538E07122ACDC38143946C4B49F0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 boundary="_D38C140D-35EB-4F04-B498-B2FF1D429BAC_"
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--_D38C140D-35EB-4F04-B498-B2FF1D429BAC_
	boundary="_BEE99AFF-ED0D-4AEC-A842-3D52CC63F9D1_"

--_BEE99AFF-ED0D-4AEC-A842-3D52CC63F9D1_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Generally you will find bats entering and leaving in the east, south, or so=
utheast of the structure.  Any place I saw them entering my house was prett=
y protected, like a soffit, or the end of a ridge vent that was not sealed =
properly.  Droppings can be noticed on inside or outside.
I got most of my education (and the bat houses that I built) from the Bat C=
onservancy=E2=80=A6 http://www.batcon.org/, as well as the =E2=80=98bat man=
=E2=80=99 that I hired for the exclusion (after I tried unsuccessfully).
They are good to have around, just not in the attic!

Gordie





From: Tim .
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:11 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?

The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, as on=
e our neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.=C2=A0

"Droppings will be at the entry points"...I sure hope this isn't accurate. =
I have bats in my attic and there are droppings in many places.....places w=
here, if they were getting in and out,=C2=A0water would be as well.=C2=A0

tim


From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Gordie Bird=
 <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 PM
To: Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?=20
=C2=A0
Sounds like bats to me.=C2=A0 Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Droppings will be at the entry points.=C2=A0 If it is warm whe=
re you are at, you may be able to see them come or go after dusk or just be=
fore dawn.=20
Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.
Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.=C2=A0=20
=C2=A0
Good luck,
Gordie
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
From: Jim Franklin
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
=C2=A0
I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually=
 see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropping=
s anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and=
 a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly i=
n the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.=20
=C2=A0
They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in t=
he evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard the=
m in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.
=C2=A0
I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.=
 A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of =
anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.=20
=C2=A0
In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but no=
t this time.=20
=C2=A0
thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________
=C2=A0
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
ge@comcast.net
=C2=A0
=C2=A0


--_BEE99AFF-ED0D-4AEC-A842-3D52CC63F9D1_
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Generally you will find bats enterin=
g and leaving in the east, south, or southeast of the structure.=C2=A0 Any =
place I saw them entering my house was pretty protected, like a soffit, or =
the end of a ridge vent that was not sealed properly.=C2=A0 Droppings can b=
e noticed on inside or outside.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I got most of my ed=
ucation (and the bat houses that I built) from the Bat Conservancy=E2=80=A6=
 <a href=3D"http://www.batcon.org/">http://www.batcon.org/</a>, as well as =
the =E2=80=98bat man=E2=80=99 that I hired for the exclusion (after I tried=
 unsuccessfully).</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>They are good to have around, jus=
t not in the attic!</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal>Gordie</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=
=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p>=
</span></p><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top=
:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=
=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stu=
ff@outlook.com">Tim .</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:11 AM<=
br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.t=
eam.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling=
?</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family=
:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'backgroun=
d:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>The t=
iming leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, as one our=
 neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.&nbsp;<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Ca=
libri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'back=
ground:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>=
&quot;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-ser=
if;color:black'>Droppings will be at the entry points&quot;...I sure hope t=
his isn't accurate. I have bats in my attic and there are droppings in many=
 places.....places where, if they were getting in and out,&nbsp;water would=
 be as well.&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;co=
lor:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=
=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span><=
/p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>tim</span><span style=3D'font-family:"C=
alibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12=
.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal sty=
le=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><img b=
order=3D0 width=3D694 height=3D2 style=3D'width:7.2291in;height:.0208in' id=
=3D"Horizontal_x0020_Line_x0020_1" src=3D"cid:image002.png@01D18FF2.9309B6C=
0"></span><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></=
p><div id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><=
b><span style=3D'color:black'>From:</span></b><span style=3D'color:black'> =
Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Gordie Bird=
 &lt;mg_garage@comcast.net&gt;<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</span><span style=3D'font-siz=
e:12.0pt;color:black'> <o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal styl=
e=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<=
o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div><div><p style=3D'background:white'><s=
pan style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'=
>Sounds like bats to me.&nbsp; Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in=
.&nbsp; &nbsp;Droppings will be at the entry points.&nbsp; If it is warm wh=
ere you are at, you may be able to see them come or go after dusk or just b=
efore dawn. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=
=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Since th=
ey are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.<o:p></o:p></=
span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font=
-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out=
 of my attic.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><sp=
an style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>=
&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Good luck,<o:p=
></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11=
.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Gordie<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-fami=
ly:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=
=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri"=
,sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background=
:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;co=
lor:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nb=
sp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'color=
:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",=
sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div style=3D'border:none;bor=
der-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p style=3D'backgrou=
nd:white'><b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-ser=
if;color:black'>From: </span></b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.or=
g">Jim Franklin</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM<br><b>To=
: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net<=
/a><br><b>Subject: </b>[Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?<o:p></o:p>=
</span></p></div><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'color:black'>=
&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-ser=
if;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span s=
tyle=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>I've=
 searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually see=
 evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No droppings an=
ywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and a g=
reat big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly in th=
e 3/4&quot; space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock. <o=
:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:=
11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></spa=
n></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-fa=
mily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>They are loudly active mostly at nig=
ht, almost always at 4:30am. Often in the evenings, but sometimes during th=
e day too. However, I haven't heard them in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-siz=
e:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></s=
pan></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-=
family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>I cannot find any entry points, so=
 I can't observe how they are getting in. A lot of the roof trim is rotted =
at the ends, but there is no evidence of anything in the attic, and I never=
 hear anything in the walls. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:w=
hite'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;colo=
r:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span st=
yle=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>In th=
e past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but not thi=
s time. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'=
font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0=
pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>thanks,<o:p></o:p></span><=
/p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>jim<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'ba=
ckground:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-=
serif;color:black'>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:=
p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;=
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><=
p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"C=
alibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Shop-talk@autox.team.net<o:p></o:p></span><=
/p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-siz=
e:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Suggested annual don=
ation&nbsp; $12.96<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span=
 style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Ar=
chive: http://www.team.net/archive<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'backgro=
und:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif=
;color:black'>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<o:p></o:p></span></p><p st=
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ri",sans-serif;color:black'>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailm=
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ns-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><p styl=
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--_D38C140D-35EB-4F04-B498-B2FF1D429BAC_--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  6 15:37:35 2016
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>, "Shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?   bat tanget...
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Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 17:23:56 +0000
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 FILETIME=[1B06E2B0:01D19029]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?   bat tanget...
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Well, WI have something weird going on...ha


The neighbor to the east of us had them coming out at least the north side,=
 the neighbor on the west on at least his east side, and I've seen them com=
e out three side of my place. too funny.


________________________________
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:53 AM
To: Tim .; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?


Generally you will find bats entering and leaving in the east, south, or so=
utheast of the structure.  Any place I saw them entering my house was prett=
y protected, like a soffit, or the end of a ridge vent that was not sealed =
properly.  Droppings can be noticed on inside or outside.

I got most of my education (and the bat houses that I built) from the Bat C=
onservancy... http://www.batcon.org/, as well as the 'bat man' that I hired=
 for the exclusion (after I tried unsuccessfully).

[http://www.batcon.org/images/logo-big.png]<http://www.batcon.org/>

Bat Conservation International - BCI<http://www.batcon.org/>
www.batcon.org
Austin-based group whose mission is to protect and restore bats and their h=
abitats worldwide. Includes information about education, conservation effor=
ts, articles ...



They are good to have around, just not in the attic!



Gordie











Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?



The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, as on=
e our neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.



"Droppings will be at the entry points"...I sure hope this isn't accurate. =
I have bats in my attic and there are droppings in many places.....places w=
here, if they were getting in and out, water would be as well.



tim





From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Gordie Bird=
 <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 PM
To: Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?



Sounds like bats to me.  Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.   Dr=
oppings will be at the entry points.  If it is warm where you are at, you m=
ay be able to see them come or go after dusk or just before dawn.

Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.

Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.



Good luck,

Gordie











Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?



I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually=
 see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropping=
s anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and=
 a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly i=
n the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.



They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in t=
he evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard the=
m in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.



I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.=
 A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of =
anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.



In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but no=
t this time.



thanks,

jim

_______________________________________________



Shop-talk@autox.team.net



Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


ge@comcast.net







--_000_DM3PR13MB053899D2925EBED7BE410790B49F0DM3PR13MB0538namp_
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<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
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</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Well, WI have something weird going on...ha</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>The neighbor to the east of us had&nbsp;them coming out at least the nor=
th side, the neighbor on the west on at least&nbsp;his east side, and I've =
seen them come out three side of my place. too funny.&nbsp;</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Gordie Bird &lt;mg_ga=
rage@comcast.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:53 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim .; Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Generally you will find bats entering and leaving in the east, south, or so=
utheast of the structure.&nbsp; Any place I saw them entering my house was =
pretty protected, like a soffit, or the end of a ridge vent that was not se=
aled properly.&nbsp; Droppings can be noticed
 on inside or outside.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
I got most of my education (and the bat houses that I built) from the Bat C=
onservancy&#8230;
<a href=3D"http://www.batcon.org/" style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: u=
nderline;" id=3D"LPlnk977100">
http://www.batcon.org/</a>, as well as the &#8216;bat man&#8217; that I hir=
ed for the exclusion (after I tried unsuccessfully).</p>
<div id=3D"LPBorder_GT_14599632878110.955606597700893" style=3D"margin-bott=
om: 20px; overflow: auto; width: 100%; text-indent: 0px;">
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t: 98px; position: relative; margin: auto; display: table; width: 250px; ba=
ckground-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
<a id=3D"LPImageAnchor_14599632878080.26784323623327944" href=3D"http://www=
.batcon.org/" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"display: table-cell; text-align: c=
enter;"><img aria-label=3D"Preview image with link selected. Double-tap to =
open the link." width=3D"250" height=3D"98" style=3D"display: inline-block;=
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; height: 98px; width: 250px; border-width: 0px; vertical-align: bottom;" s=
rc=3D"http://www.batcon.org/images/logo-big.png"></a></div>
</td>
<td id=3D"TextCell_14599632878090.45618343036622777" colspan=3D"2" style=3D=
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segoe-ui_light, 'Segoe UI Light', 'Segoe WP Light', 'Segoe UI', 'Segoe WP',=
 Tahoma, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">
<a id=3D"LPUrlAnchor_14599632878100.1354963503463653" href=3D"http://www.ba=
tcon.org/" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"text-decoration: none;">Bat Conservat=
ion International - BCI</a></div>
<div id=3D"LPMetadata_14599632878100.30921346044306275" style=3D"margin: 10=
px 0px 16px; color: rgb(102, 102, 102); font-weight: normal; font-family: w=
f_segoe-ui_normal, 'Segoe UI', 'Segoe WP', Tahoma, Arial, sans-serif; font-=
size: 14px; line-height: 14px;">
www.batcon.org</div>
<div id=3D"LPDescription_14599632878100.7705697643174771" style=3D"display:=
 block; color: rgb(102, 102, 102); font-weight: normal; font-family: wf_seg=
oe-ui_normal, 'Segoe UI', 'Segoe WP', Tahoma, Arial, sans-serif; font-size:=
 14px; line-height: 20px; max-height: 100px; overflow: hidden;">
Austin-based group whose mission is to protect and restore bats and their h=
abitats worldwide. Includes information about education, conservation effor=
ts, articles ...</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<br>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
They are good to have around, just not in the attic!</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
Gordie</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,se=
rif">&nbsp;</span></p>
<div style=3D"border:none; border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt; padding:3.0pt 0i=
n 0in 0in">
<p style=3D"border: none; padding: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size=
: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
<b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" style=3D"colo=
r: blue; text-decoration: underline;">Tim .</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:11 AM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" style=3D"color: blue=
; text-decoration: underline;">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</p>
</div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,se=
rif">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot=
;,sans-serif; color:black">The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving=
. If you have enough, as one our neighbors did, you can definitely hear the=
m going in and out.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot=
;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot=
;,sans-serif; color:black">&quot;</span><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; fo=
nt-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Droppings will be at=
 the entry points&quot;...I sure hope this isn't accurate. I have bats
 in my attic and there are droppings in many places.....places where, if th=
ey were getting in and out,&nbsp;water would be as well.&nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D"font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black"></span></=
p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot=
;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">tim</span><span style=3D"font-=
family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black"></span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif; background: white;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif; background: white;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; color:black"><img border=3D"0" width=3D"69=
4" height=3D"2" id=3D"Horizontal_x0020_Line_x0020_1" style=3D"width: 7.2291=
in; height: 0.0208in; -webkit-user-select: none;" tabindex=3D"0" src=3D"cid=
:image002.png@01D18FF2.9309B6C0"></span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; co=
lor:black"></span></p>
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg">
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif; background: white;">
<b><span style=3D"color:black">From:</span></b><span style=3D"color:black">=
 Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Gordie Bir=
d &lt;mg_garage@comcast.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</span><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:12.0pt; color:black">
</span></p>
<div>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif; background: white;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Sounds like bats to me.&nbsp; =
Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.&nbsp; &nbsp;Droppings will be=
 at the entry points.&nbsp; If it is warm where you are at, you may
 be able to see them come or go after dusk or just before dawn. </span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Since they are protected, you =
must exclude them rather than kill them.</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Took nearly 2 yrs to get them =
out of my attic.&nbsp;
</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Good luck,</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Gordie</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"color:black">&nbsp;</span><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; co=
lor:black"></span></p>
<div style=3D"border:none; border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt; padding:3.0pt 0i=
n 0in 0in">
<p style=3D"background:white"><b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-fami=
ly:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">From:
</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;=
,sans-serif; color:black"><a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" style=
=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;">Jim Franklin</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" style=3D"color: blue=
; text-decoration: underline;">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>[Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</span></p>
</div>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"color:black">&nbsp;</span><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; co=
lor:black"></span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">I've searched the Internet, bu=
t all answers seem to require that I actually see evidence, and I don't. It=
's in the ceiling between floors. No droppings
 anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and =
a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly in=
 the 3/4&quot; space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.
</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">They are loudly active mostly =
at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in the evenings, but sometimes dur=
ing the day too. However, I haven't heard them
 in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">I cannot find any entry points=
, so I can't observe how they are getting in. A lot of the roof trim is rot=
ted at the ends, but there is no evidence of anything
 in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls. </span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">In the past, any mice have eve=
ntually made it to the basement traps, but not this time.
</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">thanks,</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">jim</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">______________________________=
_________________</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span=
></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Donate: http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Suggested annual donation&nbsp=
; $12.96</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Archive: http://www.team.net/a=
rchive</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Forums: http://www.team.net/fo=
rums</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">Unsubscribe/Manage: http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage@comcast.net</span></p>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p style=3D"background:white"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt; font-family:=
&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif; color:black">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri=
, sans-serif;">
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt; font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,se=
rif">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============7340045967063359859==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  6 15:56:58 2016
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To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, 
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 13:34:54 -0400
Importance: normal
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?   bat tanget...
References: <BAEDE068-71CC-428C-AED1-89F43E4CB156@groupwbench.org>,
 <20160406070127.AF362258849B@autox.team.net>
 <DM3PR13MB0538E07122ACDC38143946C4B49F0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>,
 <BAY004-MC3F36G1VRIj0001ea66@BAY004-MC3F36.hotmail.com>
 <DM3PR13MB053899D2925EBED7BE410790B49F0@DM3PR13MB0538.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 boundary="_63E9C67A-535D-4E90-96EF-AE2BC8DF619E_"
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?   bat tanget...
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Actually, now that I recall, one of the ridge vent ends I saw them entering=
/exiting from was on the north end of my house.  I suppose they will use an=
y entrance they can to a nice cozy attic!
BTW, droppings will usually have sparkles from the insect wings.



From: Tim .
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 1:24 PM
To: Gordie Bird; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling? bat tanget...

Well, WI have something weird going on...ha

The neighbor to the east of us had=C2=A0them coming out at least the north =
side, the neighbor on the west on at least=C2=A0his east side, and I've see=
n them come out three side of my place. too funny.=C2=A0


From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:53 AM
To: Tim .; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?=20
=C2=A0
Generally you will find bats entering and leaving in the east, south, or so=
utheast of the structure.=C2=A0 Any place I saw them entering my house was =
pretty protected, like a soffit, or the end of a ridge vent that was not se=
aled properly.=C2=A0 Droppings can be noticed on inside or outside.
I got most of my education (and the bat houses that I built) from the Bat C=
onservancy=E2=80=A6 http://www.batcon.org/, as well as the =E2=80=98bat man=
=E2=80=99 that I hired for the exclusion (after I tried unsuccessfully).
=0DBat Conservation International - BCI
www.batcon.org
Austin-based group whose mission is to protect and restore bats and their h=
abitats worldwide. Includes information about education, conservation effor=
ts, articles ...=0D
They are good to have around, just not in the attic!
=C2=A0
Gordie
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
From: Tim .
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:11 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
=C2=A0
The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, as on=
e our neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.=C2=A0
=C2=A0
"Droppings will be at the entry points"...I sure hope this isn't accurate. =
I have bats in my attic and there are droppings in many places.....places w=
here, if they were getting in and out,=C2=A0water would be as well.=C2=A0
=C2=A0
tim
=C2=A0

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Gordie Bird=
 <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:30 PM
To: Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?=20
=C2=A0
Sounds like bats to me.=C2=A0 Only need a gap the size of a dime to get in.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Droppings will be at the entry points.=C2=A0 If it is warm whe=
re you are at, you may be able to see them come or go after dusk or just be=
fore dawn.=20
Since they are protected, you must exclude them rather than kill them.
Took nearly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.=C2=A0=20
=C2=A0
Good luck,
Gordie
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
From: Jim Franklin
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
=C2=A0
I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually=
 see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No dropping=
s anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and=
 a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly i=
n the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.=20
=C2=A0
They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in t=
he evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard the=
m in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.
=C2=A0
I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.=
 A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of =
anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.=20
=C2=A0
In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but no=
t this time.=20
=C2=A0
thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________
=C2=A0
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
ge@comcast.net
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0


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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Actually, now that I recall, one of =
the ridge vent ends I saw them entering/exiting from was on the north end o=
f my house. =C2=A0I suppose they will use any entrance they can to a nice c=
ozy attic!</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>BTW, droppings will usually have sparkle=
s from the insect wings.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:=
p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;<=
/o:p></span></p><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;borde=
r-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal s=
tyle=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun=
_stuff@outlook.com">Tim .</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, April 6, 2016 1:24=
 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:mg_garage@comcast.net">Gordie Bird</a>;=
 <a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><b=
r><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling? bat tanget.=
..</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'backgrou=
nd:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Well=
, WI have something weird going on...ha<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'ba=
ckground:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black=
'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'=
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>The neighbor to the east of u=
s had&nbsp;them coming out at least the north side, the neighbor on the wes=
t on at least&nbsp;his east side, and I've seen them come out three side of=
 my place. too funny.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=
=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;=
color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D=
'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><img border=
=3D0 width=3D694 height=3D2 style=3D'width:7.2291in;height:.0208in' id=3D"_=
x0000_i1027" src=3D"cid:image003.png@01D19009.19E0BFC0"></span><span style=
=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div id=3DdivRplyFw=
dMsg><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><b><span style=3D'colo=
r:black'>From:</span></b><span style=3D'color:black'> Gordie Bird &lt;mg_ga=
rage@comcast.net&gt;<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:53 AM<br><b=
>To:</b> Tim .; Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Shop-talk]=
 What animal is in my ceiling?</span><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:=
black'> <o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background=
:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></spa=
n></p></div></div><div><div><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Generally you =
will find bats entering and leaving in the east, south, or southeast of the=
 structure.&nbsp; Any place I saw them entering my house was pretty protect=
ed, like a soffit, or the end of a ridge vent that was not sealed properly.=
&nbsp; Droppings can be noticed on inside or outside.<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
<p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"=
Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>I got most of my education (and the bat ho=
uses that I built) from the Bat Conservancy=E2=80=A6 <a href=3D"http://www.=
batcon.org/" id=3DLPlnk977100>http://www.batcon.org/</a>, as well as the =
=E2=80=98bat man=E2=80=99 that I hired for the exclusion (after I tried uns=
uccessfully).<o:p></o:p></span></p><div style=3D'margin-bottom:15.0pt;overf=
low:auto' id=3D"LPBorder_GT_14599632878110.955606597700893"><table class=3D=
MsoNormalTable border=3D1 cellspacing=3D0 cellpadding=3D0 width=3D"90%" sty=
le=3D'width:90.0%;background:white;border-top:dotted #C8C8C8 1.0pt;border-l=
eft:none;border-bottom:dotted #C8C8C8 1.0pt;border-right:none'><tr><td widt=
h=3D250 valign=3Dtop style=3D'width:187.5pt;border:none;padding:15.0pt 15.0=
pt 15.0pt .75pt'><div style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt;display=
:table' id=3D"LPImageContainer_14599632878080.2080272010554589"><p class=3D=
MsoNormal style=3D'margin-top:15.0pt;background:white'><a href=3D"http://ww=
w.batcon.org/" target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Times New Roman",serif;text-decoration:none'><img border=3D0 width=3D250=
 height=3D98 style=3D'width:2.6041in;height:1.0208in' id=3D"_x0000_i1026" s=
rc=3D"http://www.batcon.org/images/logo-big.png" alt=3D"http://www.batcon.o=
rg/images/logo-big.png"></span></a><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-fam=
ily:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></td><td valign=3D=
top style=3D'border:none;padding:0in 0in 0in 0in;display:table-cell' id=3D"=
TextCell_14599632878090.45618343036622777"><div id=3D"LPTitle_1459963287809=
0.8473625154159132"><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-top:15.0pt;mso-lin=
e-height-alt:15.75pt'><span style=3D'font-size:16.0pt;font-family:"Segoe UI=
 Light",sans-serif;color:#0078D7'><a href=3D"http://www.batcon.org/" target=
=3D"_blank">Bat Conservation International - BCI</a><o:p></o:p></span></p><=
/div><div style=3D'margin-top:7.5pt;margin-bottom:12.0pt' id=3D"LPMetadata_=
14599632878100.30921346044306275"><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-top:=
15.0pt;line-height:10.5pt'><span style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Seg=
oe UI",sans-serif;color:#666666'>www.batcon.org<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div id=3D"LPDescription_14599632878100.7705697643174771"><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal style=3D'margin-top:15.0pt;line-height:15.0pt'><span style=3D'font-size=
:10.5pt;font-family:"Segoe UI",sans-serif;color:#666666'>Austin-based group=
 whose mission is to protect and restore bats and their habitats worldwide.=
 Includes information about education, conservation efforts, articles ...<o=
:p></o:p></span></p></div></td></tr></table></div><p class=3DMsoNormal styl=
e=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size=
:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>They are good to have=
 around, just not in the attic!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background=
:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;co=
lor:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Gor=
die<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-=
size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p>=
</span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;fo=
nt-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Cal=
ibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'backg=
round:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-ser=
if;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><=
span style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;fon=
t-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div style=
=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><=
p style=3D'background:white'><b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family=
:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>From: </span></b><span style=3D'font-siz=
e:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><a href=3D"mailto:ti=
ms_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">Tim .</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, April 6, =
2016 9:11 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop=
-talk@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is =
in my ceiling?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p style=3D'background:white'><sp=
an style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-=
family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'=
background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:bla=
ck'>The timing leans towards bats coming and leaving. If you have enough, a=
s one our neighbors did, you can definitely hear them going in and out.&nbs=
p;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-f=
amily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p styl=
e=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;colo=
r:black'>&quot;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri"=
,sans-serif;color:black'>Droppings will be at the entry points&quot;...I su=
re hope this isn't accurate. I have bats in my attic and there are dropping=
s in many places.....places where, if they were getting in and out,&nbsp;wa=
ter would be as well.&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans=
-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><sp=
an style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p>=
</span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;fo=
nt-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>tim</span><span style=3D'font-f=
amily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'b=
ackground:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:blac=
k'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-=
serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p style=3D'background:white'=
><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><img border=
=3D0 width=3D694 height=3D2 style=3D'width:7.2291in;height:.0208in' id=3D"H=
orizontal_x0020_Line_x0020_1" src=3D"cid:image002.png@01D18FF2.9309B6C0" al=
t=3D"cid:image002.png@01D18FF2.9309B6C0"></span><span style=3D'font-size:11=
.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><d=
iv id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg><p style=3D'background:white'><b><span style=3D'font-=
size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>From:</span></b><=
span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black=
'> Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Gordie B=
ird &lt;mg_garage@comcast.net&gt;<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:=
30 PM<br><b>To:</b> Jim Franklin; Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</=
b> Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</span><span style=3D'font-=
family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'> </span><span style=3D'font-size:1=
1.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><=
div><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans=
-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div>=
<div><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-fam=
ily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Sounds like bats to me.&nbsp; Only ne=
ed a gap the size of a dime to get in.&nbsp; &nbsp;Droppings will be at the=
 entry points.&nbsp; If it is warm where you are at, you may be able to see=
 them come or go after dusk or just before dawn. </span><span style=3D'font=
-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D=
'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sa=
ns-serif;color:black'>Since they are protected, you must exclude them rathe=
r than kill them.</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;col=
or:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=
=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Took nea=
rly 2 yrs to get them out of my attic.&nbsp; </span><span style=3D'font-fam=
ily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'bac=
kground:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-s=
erif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-se=
rif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Goo=
d luck,</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-siz=
e:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Gordie</span><span s=
tyle=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p=
><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:=
"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-family:"=
Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'backgrou=
nd:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;=
color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;c=
olor:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=
=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</=
span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:=
p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;=
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'f=
ont-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=
=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color=
:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:so=
lid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p style=3D'background:white'>=
<b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:b=
lack'>From: </span></b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri=
",sans-serif;color:black'><a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org">Jim Fra=
nklin</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, April 5, 2016 6:42 PM<br><b>To: </b><a h=
ref=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br><b>=
Subject: </b>[Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?</span><span style=3D=
'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-ser=
if;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><=
span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black=
'>I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actual=
ly see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No droppi=
ngs anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, a=
nd a great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly=
 in the 3/4&quot; space created by the strapping between joists and sheetro=
ck. </span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:1=
1.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span styl=
e=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p=
 style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri",sans-serif;color:black'>They are loudly active mostly at night, almo=
st always at 4:30am. Often in the evenings, but sometimes during the day to=
o. However, I haven't heard them in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.</span><=
span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></sp=
an></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-f=
amily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-fa=
mily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'ba=
ckground:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-=
serif;color:black'>I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how t=
hey are getting in. A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there=
 is no evidence of anything in the attic, and I never hear anything in the =
walls. </span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-siz=
e:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span s=
tyle=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p=
><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:=
"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>In the past, any mice have eventually mad=
e it to the basement traps, but not this time. </span><span style=3D'font-f=
amily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'b=
ackground:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans=
-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-=
serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><spa=
n style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>t=
hanks,</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size=
:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>jim</span><span style=
=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Cal=
ibri",sans-serif;color:black'>_____________________________________________=
__</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>=
</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.=
0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>&nbsp;</span><span style=
=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Cal=
ibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><span style=3D=
'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p sty=
le=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibr=
i",sans-serif;color:black'>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><s=
pan style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></spa=
n></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-fa=
mily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.=
96</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>=
</o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-size:11.=
0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Archive: http://www.team.=
net/archive</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:bla=
ck'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font=
-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Forums: http://w=
ww.team.net/forums</span><span style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;co=
lor:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'background:white'><span style=
=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Unsubscr=
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--_63E9C67A-535D-4E90-96EF-AE2BC8DF619E_--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  6 19:06:15 2016
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 16:36:25 -0400
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  7 00:41:01 2016
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Jim Stone'" <1789alpine@gmail.com>,
 "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <66FE53CB-6D09-44D4-BD81-21E3AB6FDE86@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 21:35:05 -0400
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  7 00:58:39 2016
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Jim Stone'" <1789alpine@gmail.com>,
 "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <66FE53CB-6D09-44D4-BD81-21E3AB6FDE86@gmail.com> 
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dXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldAoK

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  7 01:39:39 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <BAEDE068-71CC-428C-AED1-89F43E4CB156@groupwbench.org>
 <036201d18f91$17665f70$46331e50$@com>
From: Scott Ryan <scottmryan@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 20:59:38 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.7; rv:38.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/38.7.2
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had bats before, and they make an amazing amount of noise. 
Although I am not sure they could get across the ceiling that fast, and 
you should have some evidence in the attic.  And they certainly don't 
need much to get in.

Good luck! Scott R


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Franklin
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 7:45 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What animal is in my ceiling?

I've searched the Internet, but all answers seem to require that I actually
see evidence, and I don't. It's in the ceiling between floors. No droppings
anywhere. I hear little feet like mice skittering across the ceiling, and a
great big ruckus like two squirrels chasing each other, moving quickly in
the 3/4" space created by the strapping between joists and sheetrock.

They are loudly active mostly at night, almost always at 4:30am. Often in
the evenings, but sometimes during the day too. However, I haven't heard
them in 2 days. Sometimes this happens.

I cannot find any entry points, so I can't observe how they are getting in.
A lot of the roof trim is rotted at the ends, but there is no evidence of
anythingin the attic, and I never hear anything in the walls.

In the past, any mice have eventually made it to the basement traps, but not
this time.

thanks,
jim


____________________________________________________________
Wall Street Daily
Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5705bf0d9d0db3f0b5c96st03vuc
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  7 01:58:22 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 02:23:31 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1705938514655604989==

----__JWM__J57b4f3f0.1e5ec0a6S.670a85c3M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

Jim, I haven't personally tried the wood coating products but a good fri=
end who has lots of experience and who I trust used it and was not the l=
east bit pleased after the task.  He said he had to do multiple coats an=
d the coverage wasn't even close to what was advertised. By the time he =
was done he could have almost bought new deck boards.  He said it was th=
e consistency of peanut butter and wished he had simply redecked.  This =
was several years ago, right as these types of products came out.  Just =
last week we were talking and he said that he had changed his view becau=
se the product was still holding up very nicely and that he thought that=
 they have refined their formulation to make application a little easier=
. I too am looking at getting a little more time out of a deck, I think =
I am going to try flipping the existing boards.  If the bottom surface i=
sn't better, I will simply redeck. Good luck and let us know how it turn=
s out. Matt  =


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 16:36:25 -0400

Our house (eastern Long Island) has a 12&rsquo; x 30&rsquo; wooden deck =
on the back.  It came with the house so we don&rsquo;t know its age, but=
 it is far from new.  It will need to be replaced eventually, but we&rsq=
uo;d like to get at least a few more years out of it.  Plus, our 1 year =
old granddaughter will be walking and crawling on it this summer, so I&r=
squo;d like to do what I can to both preserve the wood and her feet and =
knees.  I planned on using one of the thick paint products made for this=
 purpose, but most of the reviews on them are pretty lousy.  Rustoleum R=
estore is probably the worst according to Amazon, Home Depot and Lowe&rs=
quo;s customers - possibly the worst I have ever seen for any product.  =
Other brands like Behr, Olympic and Anvil have generally better reviews,=
 but many, many customers still complain about lifting and peeling withi=
n a year of installation.  I know how critical preparation is on a produ=
ct like this, but virtually all complaints seem to include a statement a=
bout having followed the directions exactly.  Still, I&rsquo;d rather he=
ar that from someone I trust.  Does anyone here have any experience with=
 one of these products? =


Thanks,

Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
re@juno.com



----__JWM__J57b4f3f0.1e5ec0a6S.670a85c3M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>Jim, I haven't personally tried the wood coating products but=
 a good friend who has lots of experience and who I trust used it and wa=
s not the least bit pleased after the task. &nbsp;He said he had to do m=
ultiple coats and the coverage wasn't even close to what was advertised.=
 By the time he was done he could have almost bought new deck boards. &n=
bsp;He said it was the consistency of peanut butter and wished he had si=
mply redecked. &nbsp;This was several years ago, right as these types of=
 products came out. &nbsp;Just last week we were talking and he said tha=
t he had changed his view because the product was still holding up very =
nicely and that he thought that they have refined their formulation to m=
ake application a little easier.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I too am looking at getting a little more time out of a deck, I thi=
nk I am going to try flipping the existing boards. &nbsp;If the bottom s=
urface isn't better, I will simply redeck.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Good luck and let us know how it turns out.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Matt</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Jim Stone &=
lt;1789alpine@gmail.com&gt;<br>To: Shop Talk &lt;shop-talk@Autox.Team.Ne=
t&gt;<br>Subject: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints<br>Date: We=
d, 6 Apr 2016 16:36:25 -0400<br><br>Our house (eastern Long Island) has =
a 12&rsquo; x 30&rsquo; wooden deck on the back. &nbsp;It came with the =
house so we don&rsquo;t know its age, but it is far from new. &nbsp;It w=
ill need to be replaced eventually, but we&rsquo;d like to get at least =
a few more years out of it. &nbsp;Plus, our 1 year old granddaughter wil=
l be walking and crawling on it this summer, so I&rsquo;d like to do wha=
t I can to both preserve the wood and her feet and knees. &nbsp;I planne=
d on using one of the thick paint products made for this purpose, but mo=
st of the reviews on them are pretty lousy. &nbsp;Rustoleum Restore is p=
robably the worst according to Amazon, Home Depot and Lowe&rsquo;s custo=
mers - possibly the worst I have ever seen for any product. &nbsp;Other =
brands like Behr, Olympic and Anvil have generally better reviews, but m=
any, many customers still complain about lifting and peeling within a ye=
ar of installation. &nbsp;I know how critical preparation is on a produc=
t like this, but virtually all complaints seem to include a statement ab=
out having followed the directions exactly. &nbsp;Still, I&rsquo;d rathe=
r hear that from someone I trust. &nbsp;Does anyone here have any experi=
ence with one of these products? <br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Jim<br>_________=
______________________________________<br><br>Shop-talk@autox.team.net<b=
r>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation &=
nbsp;$12.96<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://ww=
w.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/o=
ptions/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com<br><br></p></html>

----__JWM__J57b4f3f0.1e5ec0a6S.670a85c3M--

--===============1705938514655604989==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1705938514655604989==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  7 03:08:49 2016
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 Thu, 7 Apr 2016 03:06:43 GMT
From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 03:06:43 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6166413372372903671==

----__JWM__J20b8e242.67cea80cS.ef9745eM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

Jim, I haven't personally tried the wood coating products but a good fri=
end who has lots of experience and who I trust used it and was not the l=
east bit pleased after the task.  He said he had to do multiple coats an=
d the coverage wasn't even close to what was advertised. By the time he =
was done he could have almost bought new deck boards.  He said it was th=
e consistency of peanut butter and wished he had simply redecked.  This =
was several years ago, right as these types of products came out.  Just =
last week we were talking and he said that he had changed his view becau=
se the product was still holding up very nicely and that he thought that=
 they have refined their formulation to make application a little easier=
. I too am looking at getting a little more time out of a deck, I think =
I am going to try flipping the existing boards.  If the bottom surface i=
sn't better, I will simply redeck. Good luck and let us know how it turn=
s out. Matt  =


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2016 16:36:25 -0400

Our house (eastern Long Island) has a 12&rsquo; x 30&rsquo; wooden deck =
on the back.  It came with the house so we don&rsquo;t know its age, but=
 it is far from new.  It will need to be replaced eventually, but we&rsq=
uo;d like to get at least a few more years out of it.  Plus, our 1 year =
old granddaughter will be walking and crawling on it this summer, so I&r=
squo;d like to do what I can to both preserve the wood and her feet and =
knees.  I planned on using one of the thick paint products made for this=
 purpose, but most of the reviews on them are pretty lousy.  Rustoleum R=
estore is probably the worst according to Amazon, Home Depot and Lowe&rs=
quo;s customers - possibly the worst I have ever seen for any product.  =
Other brands like Behr, Olympic and Anvil have generally better reviews,=
 but many, many customers still complain about lifting and peeling withi=
n a year of installation.  I know how critical preparation is on a produ=
ct like this, but virtually all complaints seem to include a statement a=
bout having followed the directions exactly.  Still, I&rsquo;d rather he=
ar that from someone I trust.  Does anyone here have any experience with=
 one of these products? =


Thanks,

Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
re@juno.com



----__JWM__J20b8e242.67cea80cS.ef9745eM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>Jim, I haven't personally tried the wood coating products but a goo=
d friend who has lots of experience and who I trust used it and was not =
the least bit pleased after the task. &nbsp;He said he had to do multipl=
e coats and the coverage wasn't even close to what was advertised. By th=
e time he was done he could have almost bought new deck boards. &nbsp;He=
 said it was the consistency of peanut butter and wished he had simply r=
edecked. &nbsp;This was several years ago, right as these types of produ=
cts came out. &nbsp;Just last week we were talking and he said that he h=
ad changed his view because the product was still holding up very nicely=
 and that he thought that they have refined their formulation to make ap=
plication a little easier.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>I too am looking at getting a little more time out of a deck, I thi=
nk I am going to try flipping the existing boards. &nbsp;If the bottom s=
urface isn't better, I will simply redeck.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>Good luck and let us know how it turns out.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
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<div>Matt</div>
</div>
</div>
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<div>&nbsp;</div>
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<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Jim Stone &=
lt;1789alpine@gmail.com&gt;<br>To: Shop Talk &lt;shop-talk@Autox.Team.Ne=
t&gt;<br>Subject: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints<br>Date: We=
d, 6 Apr 2016 16:36:25 -0400<br><br>Our house (eastern Long Island) has =
a 12&rsquo; x 30&rsquo; wooden deck on the back. &nbsp;It came with the =
house so we don&rsquo;t know its age, but it is far from new. &nbsp;It w=
ill need to be replaced eventually, but we&rsquo;d like to get at least =
a few more years out of it. &nbsp;Plus, our 1 year old granddaughter wil=
l be walking and crawling on it this summer, so I&rsquo;d like to do wha=
t I can to both preserve the wood and her feet and knees. &nbsp;I planne=
d on using one of the thick paint products made for this purpose, but mo=
st of the reviews on them are pretty lousy. &nbsp;Rustoleum Restore is p=
robably the worst according to Amazon, Home Depot and Lowe&rsquo;s custo=
mers - possibly the worst I have ever seen for any product. &nbsp;Other =
brands like Behr, Olympic and Anvil have generally better reviews, but m=
any, many customers still complain about lifting and peeling within a ye=
ar of installation. &nbsp;I know how critical preparation is on a produc=
t like this, but virtually all complaints seem to include a statement ab=
out having followed the directions exactly. &nbsp;Still, I&rsquo;d rathe=
r hear that from someone I trust. &nbsp;Does anyone here have any experi=
ence with one of these products? <br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Jim<br>_________=
______________________________________<br><br>Shop-talk@autox.team.net<b=
r>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation &=
nbsp;$12.96<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://ww=
w.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/o=
ptions/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com<br><br></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div></html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  8 20:12:38 2016
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To: vintage-race@autox.team.net,
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 14:22:29 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:42.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Shining Silver
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A few years back Karen and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary, 
our Silver Anniversary as they call it.

And coming up in just a few days on April 11th is Team.Net's Silver 
Anniversary.  Yes, on April 11, 1991 the domain was registered and went 
on the air.  In truth, it existed before that in the form of two mailing 
lists, british-cars and autox which were outgrowths of rec.autos Usenet 
groups. Murky history there.

But Team.Net as we know it today has been around for a quarter of a 
century. Of the 60 some lists on the server, most are inactive. I may 
take some time this summer to clean up and remove any lists that have 
not seen any posts for N months, the value of N to be determined.  Some 
lists, though, are still going strong, soldiering on from the days when 
Team.Net lists and website were at the leading edge, the only game in 
town.  It was estimated that at the 1997 SCCA Solo II Nationals, their 
Silver Anniversary, roughly 2/3 of the 1,000+ participants were on the 
autox list.  If you check out http://autox.team.net you will find many 
pages last updated about 24.99 years ago, though, hardly leading edge 
now.  One of these days ...

Who could have foreseen how a simple stream of 1s and 0s could be such a 
part of the lives of so many people, the catalyst for enduring 
friendships, a formidable source of knowledge and inspiration?  How many 
cars are on the road these days instead of the scrap heap because of us 
and our efforts over decades?

Happy Birthday to us. and carry on!

mjb.

ps:  I am sending this out a few days early because on Monday I will be 
on the road somewhere between Phoenix and Salt Lake City.  I'll look 
into the multi-hour delay in posting when I return.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  9 08:06:33 2016
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To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2016 08:59:17 -0400
 04/09/2016 08:59:00, Serialize complete at 04/09/2016 08:59:00
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shining Silver
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============3197183131068838771==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 004A2C6C85257F90_=

Thanks for having (and putting up with us) for that long!

Again, I'm always thankful I have  bunch of people here that know way more 
than me (although that bar isn't high)!

Pulled my fanny off the flames more than once!

Rock on!

Here's to 25 X 25 more years!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 004A2C6C85257F90_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks for having (and putting up with
us) for that long!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Again, I'm always thankful I have &nbsp;bunch
of people here that know way more than me (although that bar isn't high)!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Pulled my fanny off the flames more
than once!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Rock on!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Here's to 25 X 25 more years!</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 004A2C6C85257F90_=--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  9 11:18:35 2016
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2016 09:02:46 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.7.2
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Folks,

I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car 
list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo 
to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I 
want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill, 
but also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the 
option for more attachments.

I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even 
Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China 
for all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best 
overall.  Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some 
reason than 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I haven't 
retired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose 
capacity over time.  The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both the 
OEM--which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket ones 
all lose charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated 
charging.  I know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and they 
all will lose some capacity over time.

Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  9 12:24:28 2016
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References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2016 12:53:38 -0500
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

I've been using DeWalt cordless stuff since the 14.4v stuff was new. I now have 18v tools and really like them. The new, lighter batteries are great!

I had a few 18v Milwaukee tools for a while but they didn't live up to my expectations. Our Habitat electrical crew used to use them too but had too much trouble with reliability so they changed to DeWalt. 

Several things to consider:
Newer, higher voltage tools are great but they cost more. 

Consider factory refurbished tools, much cheaper. (I bought a 1/2" drill, 1/4" impact driver, 2 XLR batteries case @ a charger for $110.)

Whatever brand you select, buy tools that use the same battery. That way you can buy a few batteries, 1 charger & bare tools. Much cheaper that way. 

Pat Horne 
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Apr 9, 2016, at 11:02 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

Folks,

I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill, but also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the option for more attachments.

I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best overall.  Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason than 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I haven't retired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose capacity over time.  The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both the OEM--which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket ones all lose charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated charging.  I know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and they all will lose some capacity over time.

Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  9 16:44:20 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2016 14:51:53 -0400
 04/09/2016 14:51:57, Serialize complete at 04/09/2016 14:51:57
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============6270168205324280511==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 006A74DB85257F90_=

Bob, 

Dewalt has released a REAL game changer in my opinion.  I love my Dewalt 
18v tools.  I have tons of them.  But the Li-ion stuff is the new way to 
go.  So, Dewalt, after about 1 year of teasing, has released this adaptor 
(under the B&D name*).

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCA1820-Dewalt-Battery-Adapter/dp/B016K1UD0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460229262&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+18+to+20+volt+adapter

It allows you to use any dewalt cordless 18v or 20v tool with new Li-ion 
batteries!  For $65, it's cheaper than a replacement battery.

SO, here is the real benefit...

1- You can buy new tools (new Li-ion) for the tools you use the most.
2-You can keep the other tools that are lesser used (I have just about 
every dewalt cordless tool in the NiCd format.  Many of these I don't use 
enough to need to replace them.)
3-I'm sure you can find closeouts and sales of NiCd tool combos, but still 
use the new batteries.

FWIW, I bought my Li-Ion set about 8 months ago and I had to charge one of 
the batteries once so far.  These things REALLY last.

Note, there are a few of the old tools that you can't use this adaptor on, 
but it is just because of interference fit for the batteries (like the 
radio and wet/dry hand held vac.)


*=while the adaptor is branded "Dewalt", the paperwork I got with it 
referred to B&D.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 006A74DB85257F90_=


<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Bob, </font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Dewalt has released a REAL game changer
in my opinion. &nbsp;I love my Dewalt 18v tools. &nbsp;I have tons of them.
&nbsp;But the Li-ion stuff is the new way to go. &nbsp;So, Dewalt, after
about 1 year of teasing, has released this adaptor (under the B&amp;D name*).</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCA1820-Dewalt-Battery-Adapter/dp/B016K1UD0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460229262&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dewalt+18+to+20+volt+adapter</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">It allows you to use any dewalt cordless
18v or 20v tool with new Li-ion batteries! &nbsp;For $65, it's cheaper
than a replacement battery.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">SO, here is the real benefit...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">1- You can buy new tools (new Li-ion)
for the tools you use the most.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">2-You can keep the other tools that
are lesser used (I have just about every dewalt cordless tool in the NiCd
format. &nbsp;Many of these I don't use enough to need to replace them.)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">3-I'm sure you can find closeouts and
sales of NiCd tool combos, but still use the new batteries.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">FWIW, I bought my Li-Ion set about 8
months ago and I had to charge one of the batteries once so far. &nbsp;These
things REALLY last.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Note, there are a few of the old tools
that you can't use this adaptor on, but it is just because of interference
fit for the batteries (like the radio and wet/dry hand held vac.)</font>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">*=while the adaptor is branded &quot;Dewalt&quot;,
the paperwork I got with it referred to B&amp;D.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 006A74DB85257F90_=--

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References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2016 18:02:41 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <Paul@Parkanzky.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2199859120918909568==

--047d7bdc0f226cb6000530147852

I have Bosch 18v Li-Ion impact driver and hammer drills and I absolutely
love them.  The charge seems to last forever.  The impact driver is the
higher-torque model, with something like 125 lb-ft. of torque, which is
usually enough to do wheel swaps.  I can't say enough great stuff about
them.

-Paul

On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 12:02 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Folks,
>
> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car
> list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo to
> replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I want
> something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill, but
> also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the option for
> more attachments.
>
> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even
> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for
> all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best overall.
> Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason than
> 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I haven't retired the old
> Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose capacity over time.
> The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both the OEM--which are too
> expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket ones all lose charge when
> not used, and lose capacity after repeated charging.  I know Li-Ion is
> better, but a battery is a battery, and they all will lose some capacity
> over time.
>
> Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.
>
> Bob

--047d7bdc0f226cb6000530147852
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I have Bosch 18v Li-Ion impact driver and hammer drills an=
d I absolutely love them.=C2=A0 The charge seems to last forever.=C2=A0 The=
 impact driver is the higher-torque model, with something like 125 lb-ft. o=
f torque, which is usually enough to do wheel swaps.=C2=A0 I can&#39;t say =
enough great stuff about them.<div><br></div><div>-Paul<br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 12:02 PM, =
Bob Spidell <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" t=
arget=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid=
;padding-left:1ex">Folks,<br>
<br>
I realize this is like bringing up &#39;best oil&#39; or &#39;best tires&#3=
9; on a car list, but I&#39;m in the market for a battery drill/driver/sand=
er/etc. combo to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-dr=
ill.=C2=A0 I want something with all the &#39;goodies;&#39; I&#39;ll need t=
he usual driver/drill, but also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), =
and at least the option for more attachments.<br>
<br>
I know I probably can&#39;t lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even Cra=
ftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for all =
I know--but would like to see if there&#39;s a consensus on best overall.=
=C2=A0 Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason th=
an 19.2V, etc.?=C2=A0 =C2=A0 My main issue, and the reason I haven&#39;t re=
tired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose capacit=
y over time.=C2=A0 The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both the OEM-=
-which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket ones all los=
e charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated charging.=C2=A0 I =
know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and they all will lose s=
ome capacity over time.<br>
<br>
Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.<br>
<br>
Bob</blockquote></div></div></div></div>

--047d7bdc0f226cb6000530147852--

--===============2199859120918909568==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============2199859120918909568==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  9 19:16:25 2016
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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 00:10:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: Tom & Marge FitzGibbon <fitzgibbon3@comcast.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
 boundary="----=_Part_7350561_1878634479.1460247045042"
Thread-Topic: Battery-operated tools
Thread-Index: AxpAL7I8748bWkx8KlFWX6e4219tsA==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

------=_Part_7350561_1878634479.1460247045042
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><font face=3D"Helvetica">Bob,<br><br>In my life experience the =
higher the voltage the better the performance and the newer LIthium batteri=
es are a great improvement over NiCad. They lose a charge much more slowly =
sitting on a shelf, although I have found they are also affected by tempera=
ture so lose a charge in an unheated garage in the winter much faster than =
in a heated garage. My other observation is stick with one brand so you hav=
e one charger if you can. I did not do that and it is a PITA managing the d=
ifferent batteries and chargers. <br><br>I've been a long time fan of DeWal=
t and Porter Cable, but I recently bought a Makita and am very impressed. I=
've had several of their corded tools over the years but was unimpressed by=
 earlier generations of their battery operated tools. Their current tools h=
owever seem to be a big improvement. <br><br>Hope that helps. <br><br>Tom<b=
r><br>Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App<br><br><br>------ Original Messa=
ge ------<br><br>From: Bob Spidell<br>To: Shop Talk<br>Sent: April 9, 2016 =
at 2:12 PM<br>Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools<br><br>Folks,<br>=
<br>I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car =
<br>list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. comb=
o <br>to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill. &nb=
sp;I <br>want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/=
drill, <br>but also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least=
 the <br>option for more attachments.<br><br>I know I probably can't lose w=
ith DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even <br>Craftsman--hell, they might all c=
ome out of the same factory in China <br>for all I know--but would like to =
see if there's a consensus on best <br>overall. &nbsp;Is more voltage alway=
s better, or is 14.4V better for some <br>reason than 19.2V, etc.? &nbsp; &=
nbsp;My main issue, and the reason I haven't <br>retired the old Makita yet=
, is that the batteries always seem to lose <br>capacity over time. &nbsp;T=
he 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both the <br>OEM--which are too e=
xpensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket ones <br>all lose charge whe=
n not used, and lose capacity after repeated <br>charging. &nbsp;I know Li-=
Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and they <br>all will lose some =
capacity over time.<br><br>Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.<br><b=
r>Bob<br>_______________________________________________<br><br>Shop-talk@a=
utox.team.net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annua=
l donation &nbsp;$12.96<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: =
http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mai=
lman/options/shop-talk/fitzgibbon3@comcast.net<br><br></font></body></html>
------=_Part_7350561_1878634479.1460247045042
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


------=_Part_7350561_1878634479.1460247045042--

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
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References: <66FE53CB-6D09-44D4-BD81-21E3AB6FDE86@gmail.com>
 <000101d1906e$229be760$67d3b620$@lotusowners.com>
To: Tony Vaccaro <tvacc@lotusowners.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wooden deck restoration paints
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2016 22:26:19 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============0808624839367160899==
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wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru U-verse...   some =
limited reading makes me think no...   anyone got a work around that =
doesn=E2=80=99t involve using my laptop or my phone...  love to just =
turn  on the TV and do it

thanks
john
------=_NextPart_000_01D2_01D192AE.D70CA530
	charset="UTF-8"
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru =
U-verse...&nbsp;&nbsp; some=20
limited reading makes me think no...&nbsp;&nbsp; anyone got a work =
around that=20
doesn=E2=80=99t involve using my laptop or my phone...&nbsp; love to =
just turn&nbsp; on=20
the TV and do it</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0808624839367160899==--

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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 06:48:00 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>,
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse
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References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 08:40:35 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car list,
> but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo to
> replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I want
> something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill, but also
> need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the option for more
> attachments.
>
> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even
> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for
> all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best overall.
> Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason than
> 19.2V, etc.?

Pick the one that comes in the color you like.  I like red, so I have
Milwaukee[1].  Consider brushless for your most used tools, they're
lighter and more powerful, and the price differential is getting
smaller.  Careful buying kits, and make sure you get the version of
the kit you want.[2] Some kits are good deals, some aren't.
Drill/driver + something kits tend to be good values, as they're sold
on the drug dealer 'first one is free' model.  Others are more
expensive than buying the tool and batteries separately.  And once
you've got a collection of batteries, you don't need one for every
tool.


Modern Li-ion batteries and tools are far superior to Ni-Cad or NiMH
batteries and tools.  Li-ion batteries have lower self discharge, so
they stay charged better, and they have higher power densities, so the
batteries last longer.   They also have much lower internal
resistance, so tools can take power out of them much faster.  That
means the current crop of high-end 12V stuff is better than any 19.2
nicad tool, in nearly every respect: lighter, smaller, more powerful,
and usually cheaper.  The 18V stuff is amazing; my m18 fuel drill
drills holes faster than my corded drill, which is a nice drill that
I've never thought underpowered or slow.

A note on voltages:  the lithium cells used in the battery packs of
these tools have a nominal voltage of 4v, which is closer to 3.6 under
load.  The 12V tools use 3 cells in series, the 18v tools use 5.
(Dewalt's 20V stuff is 18V, the 20 is just marketing to make it sound
better.)  High capacity packs have two sets of cells in parallel.
Name brand batteries have a pretty good life, and seem to last two to
three years in professional use.


[1]The actual reason i have Milwaukee tools is that I used to work
with people who had them, and it meant I could borrow a tool I didn't
own, and use my batteries on it.

[2] I recently bought a drill/impact set.  The version with the
previous generation tools was still widely available, as was the early
version of the kit I got, which came with lower capacity batteries.
Both were more expensive...

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 10:41:15 2016
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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 14:46:54 +0000
From: <jibrooks@live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A40CE986E193426885764E5C3A4D4B34@UserPC>
 FILETIME=[D3D28A90:01D19337]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8626345401783728413==
	boundary="_a6bdf944-508e-40bd-905f-5bf98e4595bc_"

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We access Netflix on an older TV with a Roku.


Jack






On Sat=2C Apr 9=2C 2016 at 11:26 PM -0700=2C "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net=
> wrote:





wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru U-verse...   some limited r=
eading makes me think no...   anyone got a work around that doesn=E2=80=99t=
 involve using my laptop or my phone...  love to just turn  on the TV and d=
o it

thanks
john

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html=3B charset=3Dutf-8">
</head>
<body>
<p dir=3D"auto">We access Netflix on an older TV with a Roku. </p>
<p dir=3D"auto">Jack<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat=2C Apr 9=2C 2016 at 11:26 PM -0700=2C &qu=
ot=3Bjohn niolon&quot=3B <span dir=3D"ltr">
&lt=3B<a href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net" target=3D"_blank">jniolon@att.net<=
/a>&gt=3B</span> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt=3B font-family:'Calibri'=3B color:#000000">
<div>wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru U-verse...&nbsp=3B&nbs=
p=3B some limited reading makes me think no...&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B anyone got a=
 work around that doesn=E2=80=99t involve using my laptop or my phone...&nb=
sp=3B love to just turn&nbsp=3B on the TV and do it</div>
<div>&nbsp=3B</div>
<div>thanks</div>
<div>john</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 10:58:58 2016
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References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
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From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 10:04:49 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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Having faced the same situation about a year ago. My beloved Panasonic 
battery packs died and I did not want to rebuild them yet again. I 
decided on the Milwaukee brushless series of tools.

I have the M12 brushless 12v drill and the brusheless impact driver plus 
the right angle drill [not brushless but it was a 'free' add-on to the 
12v drill purchase and I've used it more than I thought I would]. All 
are very light yet quite powerful. There are two different size battery 
packs. One is 2ah and is the same size as the handle of the drill. As 
such it is very small and light but the battery lasts considerably 
longer than 90% of the jobs I use it for. For 5% of the remaining I use 
the 4ah battery which is the 'standard' flat bottom battery which allows 
you to set the drill down using the bottom of the battery pack as a stand.

For the final 5% of the jobs I have the M18 brushless 18v drill, 
drill-driver, saws-all and portaband. They all take the 5ah battery and 
the drill has enough torque to easily break things [both organic and 
inorganic] if I do not pay attention to what I am doing.

I am not suggesting that Milwaukee is any better nor worse than the 
other brands. Just that I am happy with them.

I think Li-ion batteries is a given. As other have suggested, get one 
brand and share batteries. I bought several as 'complete kits' so I 
ended up with three chargers and multiple batteries. The rest were "tool 
only" purchases. For what ever reason I see a lot of new or very lightly 
used stuff on Craig's List in our area so the financial impact has not 
been as great as it could have been.

I would highly recommend brushless not mater the brand.

Given the improvements in Li-ion batteries and especially the brushless 
motors you may find that the 12v versions will do everything you need 
while being very light and easy to use.

Arvid

> ------ Original Message ------
>
> From: Bob Spidell
> To: Shop Talk
> Sent: April 9, 2016 at 2:12 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
>
> Folks,
>
> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car
> list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo
> to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I
> want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill,
> but also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the
> option for more attachments.
>
> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even
> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China
> for all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best
> overall.  Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some
> reason than 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I haven't
> retired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose
> capacity over time.  The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both the
> OEM--which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket ones
> all lose charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated
> charging.  I know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and they
> all will lose some capacity over time.
>
> Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________


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    Having faced the same situation about a year ago. My beloved
    Panasonic battery packs died and I did not want to rebuild them yet
    again. I decided on the Milwaukee brushless series of tools.<br>
    <br>
    I have the M12 brushless 12v drill and the brusheless impact driver
    plus the right angle drill [not brushless but it was a 'free' add-on
    to the 12v drill purchase and I've used it more than I thought I
    would]. All are very light yet quite powerful. There are two
    different size battery packs. One is 2ah and is the same size as the
    handle of the drill. As such it is very small and light but the
    battery lasts considerably longer than 90% of the jobs I use it for.
    For 5% of the remaining I use the 4ah battery which is the
    'standard' flat bottom battery which allows you to set the drill
    down using the bottom of the battery pack as a stand.<br>
    <br>
    For the final 5% of the jobs I have the M18 brushless 18v drill,
    drill-driver, saws-all and portaband. They all take the 5ah battery
    and the drill has enough torque to easily break things [both organic
    and inorganic] if I do not pay attention to what I am doing.<br>
    <br>
    I am not suggesting that Milwaukee is any better nor worse than the
    other brands. Just that I am happy with them.<br>
    <br>
    I think Li-ion batteries is a given. As other have suggested, get
    one brand and share batteries. I bought several as 'complete kits'
    so I ended up with three chargers and multiple batteries. The rest
    were "tool only" purchases. For what ever reason I see a lot of new
    or very lightly used stuff on Craig's List in our area so the
    financial impact has not been as great as it could have been.<br>
    <br>
    I would highly recommend brushless not mater the brand.<br>
    <br>
    Given the improvements in Li-ion batteries and especially the
    brushless motors you may find that the 12v versions will do
    everything you need while being very light and easy to use.<br>
    <br>
    Arvid<br>
    <br>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:1905110359.7350562.1460247045042.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net"
      type="cite"><font face="Helvetica">------ Original Message ------<br>
        <br>
        From: Bob Spidell<br>
        To: Shop Talk<br>
        Sent: April 9, 2016 at 2:12 PM<br>
        Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools<br>
        <br>
        Folks,<br>
        <br>
        I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on
        a car <br>
        list, but I'm in the market for a battery
        drill/driver/sander/etc. combo <br>
        to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V
        driver-drill.  I <br>
        want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual
        driver/drill, <br>
        but also need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least
        the <br>
        option for more attachments.<br>
        <br>
        I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or
        even <br>
        Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in
        China <br>
        for all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on
        best <br>
        overall.  Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for
        some <br>
        reason than 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I
        haven't <br>
        retired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to
        lose <br>
        capacity over time.  The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and
        both the <br>
        OEM--which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand
        aftermarket ones <br>
        all lose charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated
        <br>
        charging.  I know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery,
        and they <br>
        all will lose some capacity over time.<br>
        <br>
        Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.<br>
        <br>
        Bob<br>
        _______________________________________________</font><br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 10:26:50 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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We have Uverse as well.  If you have Amazon Prime, get a FireTV  for 
under a hundred dollars.  You can get NetFlix and  thousands pf Amazon 
Prime films, shows, and music galore - best of all three worlds.  Fire 
TV even has Echo/Alexa as well...

On 4/9/2016 10:26 PM, john niolon wrote:
> wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru U-verse...   some 
> limited reading makes me think no... anyone got a work around that 
> doesn’t involve using my laptop or my phone...  love to just turn  on 
> the TV and do it
> thanks
> john
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/steve@hochschild.org
>


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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    We have Uverse as well.  If you have Amazon Prime, get a FireTV  for
    under a hundred dollars.  You can get NetFlix and  thousands pf
    Amazon Prime films, shows, and music galore - best of all three
    worlds.  Fire TV even has Echo/Alexa as well...<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/9/2016 10:26 PM, john niolon
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:A40CE986E193426885764E5C3A4D4B34@UserPC"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR:
          #000000">
          <div>wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru
            U-verse...   some limited reading makes me think no...  
            anyone got a work around that doesn’t involve using my
            laptop or my phone...  love to just turn  on the TV and do
            it</div>
          <div> </div>
          <div>thanks</div>
          <div>john</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
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    <br>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 10:52:15 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered 
tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers, 
and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.  I 
finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small 
battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.

So feel free to save hundreds of dollars and for me, huge frustration, 
by buying an extension cord and a set of plug-in tools.

How many dead batteries and useless chargers have we all accumulated in 
our shops, anyway??  Just an alternative opinion, feel free to ignore...

Mr Grumpy


On 4/10/2016 8:40 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Folks,
>>
>> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car list,
>> but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo to
>> replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I want
>> something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill, but also
>> need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the option for more
>> attachments.
>>
>> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even
>> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for
>> all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best overall.
>> Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason than
>> 19.2V, etc.?
> Pick the one that comes in the color you like.  I like red, so I have
> Milwaukee[1].  Consider brushless for your most used tools, they're
> lighter and more powerful, and the price differential is getting
> smaller.  Careful buying kits, and make sure you get the version of
> the kit you want.[2] Some kits are good deals, some aren't.
> Drill/driver + something kits tend to be good values, as they're sold
> on the drug dealer 'first one is free' model.  Others are more
> expensive than buying the tool and batteries separately.  And once
> you've got a collection of batteries, you don't need one for every
> tool.
>
>
> Modern Li-ion batteries and tools are far superior to Ni-Cad or NiMH
> batteries and tools.  Li-ion batteries have lower self discharge, so
> they stay charged better, and they have higher power densities, so the
> batteries last longer.   They also have much lower internal
> resistance, so tools can take power out of them much faster.  That
> means the current crop of high-end 12V stuff is better than any 19.2
> nicad tool, in nearly every respect: lighter, smaller, more powerful,
> and usually cheaper.  The 18V stuff is amazing; my m18 fuel drill
> drills holes faster than my corded drill, which is a nice drill that
> I've never thought underpowered or slow.
>
> A note on voltages:  the lithium cells used in the battery packs of
> these tools have a nominal voltage of 4v, which is closer to 3.6 under
> load.  The 12V tools use 3 cells in series, the 18v tools use 5.
> (Dewalt's 20V stuff is 18V, the 20 is just marketing to make it sound
> better.)  High capacity packs have two sets of cells in parallel.
> Name brand batteries have a pretty good life, and seem to last two to
> three years in professional use.
>
>
> [1]The actual reason i have Milwaukee tools is that I used to work
> with people who had them, and it meant I could borrow a tool I didn't
> own, and use my batteries on it.
>
> [2] I recently bought a drill/impact set.  The version with the
> previous generation tools was still widely available, as was the early
> version of the kit I got, which came with lower capacity batteries.
> Both were more expensive...
>

_______________________________________________

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 10:02:04 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the tips and advice, folks.  Got enough info to move on.

Bob

On 4/9/2016 9:02 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car 
> list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. 
> combo to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V 
> driver-drill.  I want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the 
> usual driver/drill, but also need a portable sander (belt and/or 
> disc), and at least the option for more attachments.
>
> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even 
> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China 
> for all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best 
> overall.  Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some 
> reason than 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I haven't 
> retired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose 
> capacity over time.  The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both 
> the OEM--which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket 
> ones all lose charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated 
> charging.  I know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and 
> they all will lose some capacity over time.
>
> Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.
>
> Bob
>
>
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 16:53:33 2016
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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 14:19:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
References: <A40CE986E193426885764E5C3A4D4B34@UserPC>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse
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On Sat, 9 Apr 2016, john niolon wrote:
> wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru U-verse...   some 
> limited reading makes me think no...   anyone got a work around that 
> doesn?t involve using my laptop or my phone...  love to just turn  on 
> the TV and do it

    What, exactly, do you mean by "U-verse"?  U-verse TV, or U-verse 
Internet?  If you can get one, you can get both, and the latter is just a 
broadband connection... it doesn't care what you watch over that link.  So 
get a smart TV ( or add an adapter to your existing set ), connect it to 
your home network, and watch Netflix or anything else on the Internet 
on your TV.

    If you want a Netflix channel to show up in your U-verse Guide, yeah, 
good luck with that.  I doubt that's possible.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 17:24:32 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 14:43:05 -0500
To: steve@hochschild.org
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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Dear Mr. Grumpy.....I like that!

One of the hobbiest mags did a survey & found that home use didn't need expensive, heavy drill/drivers & could get by with a 12v unit. If you don't use the tools for work or at least weekly, extension cords make a lot of sense. 

Peace,
Pat
(My grandkids refer to me as Grumpa Pat)  

Pat Horne 
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Apr 10, 2016, at 10:52 AM, steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net> wrote:

I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers, and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.  I finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.

So feel free to save hundreds of dollars and for me, huge frustration, by buying an extension cord and a set of plug-in tools.

How many dead batteries and useless chargers have we all accumulated in our shops, anyway??  Just an alternative opinion, feel free to ignore...

Mr Grumpy

<snip>
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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--===============3528242403678131846==


--Apple-Mail=_97E2AE02-224F-4D6F-9153-EEAA65D16CCE
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii


On Apr 10, 2016, at 11:52 AM, steve hochschild =
<steve-hochschild@att.net> wrote:

> How many dead batteries and useless chargers have we all accumulated =
in our shops, anyway??  Just an alternative opinion, feel free to =
ignore...

A valid concern, but I've had my B&D 14.4v drill for at least 20 years. =
Replaced the batteries once along with the motor, and the batteries are =
dead again, and the plastic housing is cracked and held together with =
safety wire. I's day that's a good lifetime.

Thanks for the timely thread, I'm also in the market.=20

jim=

--Apple-Mail=_97E2AE02-224F-4D6F-9153-EEAA65D16CCE
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: =
after-white-space;"><br><div><div>On Apr 10, 2016, at 11:52 AM, steve =
hochschild &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:steve-hochschild@att.net">steve-hochschild@att.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;">How many dead batteries and useless =
chargers have we all accumulated in our shops, anyway?? &nbsp;Just an =
alternative opinion, feel free to =
ignore...</span></blockquote></div><br><div>A valid concern, but I've =
had my B&amp;D 14.4v drill for at least 20 years. Replaced the batteries =
once along with the motor, and the batteries are dead again, and the =
plastic housing is cracked and held together with safety wire. I's day =
that's a good lifetime.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for the timely =
thread, I'm also in the =
market.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>jim</div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_97E2AE02-224F-4D6F-9153-EEAA65D16CCE--

--===============3528242403678131846==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3528242403678131846==--

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 12:50:58 -0700
Thread-Index: AdGTXxmIdSlF95YGTWKRpikqVFxYHgAAHKzg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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> How many dead batteries and useless chargers have we all 
> accumulated in 
> our shops, anyway??

And how many flashlight batteries have I thrown away?  Same concept; batteries are consumables even when they are rechargeable.

I have a full set of corded tools; when I need to do some serious hole creation I dig out the old Milwaukee "Hole Shooter" and
however much cord is needed.  But 99% of the time, I still grab the cordless drill.  Kind of lost track, the pair of batteries I
just got might be my 4th set in 20+ years (and yes, I save the old ones for no apparent reason); but the convenience is worth the
price IMO.  And at under $10/year (two no-name batteries were under $50), the cost seems reasonable.

Come to think of it, I've got more dead cell phones than dead battery packs <G>

Randall

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 16:00:06 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <Paul@Parkanzky.com>
To: steve@hochschild.org
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0407941285372870072==

--94eb2c05d26cdf15ec053026df01

You may have given up too soon.  Have you tried modern Li-Ion tools?  My
experiences were like yours until the latest generation.  But now I
couldn't be happier after quite a long service life.

-Paul

On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 11:52 AM, steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net
> wrote:

> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered
> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers, and
> drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.  I finally
> realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small battery
> screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.
>
> So feel free to save hundreds of dollars and for me, huge frustration, by
> buying an extension cord and a set of plug-in tools.
>
> How many dead batteries and useless chargers have we all accumulated in
> our shops, anyway??  Just an alternative opinion, feel free to ignore...
>
> Mr Grumpy
>
>
>
> On 4/10/2016 8:40 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
>
>> On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car
>>> list,
>>> but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo to
>>> replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.  I want
>>> something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the usual driver/drill, but
>>> also
>>> need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the option for
>>> more
>>> attachments.
>>>
>>> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even
>>> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for
>>> all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best overall.
>>> Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason than
>>> 19.2V, etc.?
>>>
>> Pick the one that comes in the color you like.  I like red, so I have
>> Milwaukee[1].  Consider brushless for your most used tools, they're
>> lighter and more powerful, and the price differential is getting
>> smaller.  Careful buying kits, and make sure you get the version of
>> the kit you want.[2] Some kits are good deals, some aren't.
>> Drill/driver + something kits tend to be good values, as they're sold
>> on the drug dealer 'first one is free' model.  Others are more
>> expensive than buying the tool and batteries separately.  And once
>> you've got a collection of batteries, you don't need one for every
>> tool.
>>
>>
>> Modern Li-ion batteries and tools are far superior to Ni-Cad or NiMH
>> batteries and tools.  Li-ion batteries have lower self discharge, so
>> they stay charged better, and they have higher power densities, so the
>> batteries last longer.   They also have much lower internal
>> resistance, so tools can take power out of them much faster.  That
>> means the current crop of high-end 12V stuff is better than any 19.2
>> nicad tool, in nearly every respect: lighter, smaller, more powerful,
>> and usually cheaper.  The 18V stuff is amazing; my m18 fuel drill
>> drills holes faster than my corded drill, which is a nice drill that
>> I've never thought underpowered or slow.
>>
>> A note on voltages:  the lithium cells used in the battery packs of
>> these tools have a nominal voltage of 4v, which is closer to 3.6 under
>> load.  The 12V tools use 3 cells in series, the 18v tools use 5.
>> (Dewalt's 20V stuff is 18V, the 20 is just marketing to make it sound
>> better.)  High capacity packs have two sets of cells in parallel.
>> Name brand batteries have a pretty good life, and seem to last two to
>> three years in professional use.
>>
>>
>> [1]The actual reason i have Milwaukee tools is that I used to work
>> with people who had them, and it meant I could borrow a tool I didn't
>> own, and use my batteries on it.
>>
>> [2] I recently bought a drill/impact set.  The version with the
>> previous generation tools was still widely available, as was the early
>> version of the kit I got, which came with lower capacity batteries.
>> Both were more expensive...
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
>
>

--94eb2c05d26cdf15ec053026df01
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">You may have given up too soon.=C2=A0 Have you tried moder=
n Li-Ion tools?=C2=A0 My experiences were like yours until the latest gener=
ation.=C2=A0 But now I couldn&#39;t be happier after quite a long service l=
ife.<div><br></div><div>-Paul</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><di=
v class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 11:52 AM, steve hochschild =
<span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:steve-hochschild@att.net" target=3D=
"_blank">steve-hochschild@att.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;pad=
ding-left:1ex">I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on batt=
ery powered tools.=C2=A0 I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useles=
s chargers, and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.=
=C2=A0 I finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very sm=
all battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.=
<br>
<br>
So feel free to save hundreds of dollars and for me, huge frustration, by b=
uying an extension cord and a set of plug-in tools.<br>
<br>
How many dead batteries and useless chargers have we all accumulated in our=
 shops, anyway??=C2=A0 Just an alternative opinion, feel free to ignore...<=
br>
<br>
Mr Grumpy<div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
On 4/10/2016 8:40 AM, David Scheidt wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
On Sat, Apr 9, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell=
@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Folks,<br>
<br>
I realize this is like bringing up &#39;best oil&#39; or &#39;best tires&#3=
9; on a car list,<br>
but I&#39;m in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. combo to<b=
r>
replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V driver-drill.=C2=A0 I want=
<br>
something with all the &#39;goodies;&#39; I&#39;ll need the usual driver/dr=
ill, but also<br>
need a portable sander (belt and/or disc), and at least the option for more=
<br>
attachments.<br>
<br>
I know I probably can&#39;t lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even<br>
Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China for<b=
r>
all I know--but would like to see if there&#39;s a consensus on best overal=
l.<br>
Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some reason than<br>
19.2V, etc.?<br>
</blockquote>
Pick the one that comes in the color you like.=C2=A0 I like red, so I have<=
br>
Milwaukee[1].=C2=A0 Consider brushless for your most used tools, they&#39;r=
e<br>
lighter and more powerful, and the price differential is getting<br>
smaller.=C2=A0 Careful buying kits, and make sure you get the version of<br=
>
the kit you want.[2] Some kits are good deals, some aren&#39;t.<br>
Drill/driver + something kits tend to be good values, as they&#39;re sold<b=
r>
on the drug dealer &#39;first one is free&#39; model.=C2=A0 Others are more=
<br>
expensive than buying the tool and batteries separately.=C2=A0 And once<br>
you&#39;ve got a collection of batteries, you don&#39;t need one for every<=
br>
tool.<br>
<br>
<br>
Modern Li-ion batteries and tools are far superior to Ni-Cad or NiMH<br>
batteries and tools.=C2=A0 Li-ion batteries have lower self discharge, so<b=
r>
they stay charged better, and they have higher power densities, so the<br>
batteries last longer.=C2=A0 =C2=A0They also have much lower internal<br>
resistance, so tools can take power out of them much faster.=C2=A0 That<br>
means the current crop of high-end 12V stuff is better than any 19.2<br>
nicad tool, in nearly every respect: lighter, smaller, more powerful,<br>
and usually cheaper.=C2=A0 The 18V stuff is amazing; my m18 fuel drill<br>
drills holes faster than my corded drill, which is a nice drill that<br>
I&#39;ve never thought underpowered or slow.<br>
<br>
A note on voltages:=C2=A0 the lithium cells used in the battery packs of<br=
>
these tools have a nominal voltage of 4v, which is closer to 3.6 under<br>
load.=C2=A0 The 12V tools use 3 cells in series, the 18v tools use 5.<br>
(Dewalt&#39;s 20V stuff is 18V, the 20 is just marketing to make it sound<b=
r>
better.)=C2=A0 High capacity packs have two sets of cells in parallel.<br>
Name brand batteries have a pretty good life, and seem to last two to<br>
three years in professional use.<br>
<br>
<br>
[1]The actual reason i have Milwaukee tools is that I used to work<br>
with people who had them, and it meant I could borrow a tool I didn&#39;t<b=
r>
own, and use my batteries on it.<br>
<br>
[2] I recently bought a drill/impact set.=C2=A0 The version with the<br>
previous generation tools was still widely available, as was the early<br>
version of the kit I got, which came with lower capacity batteries.<br>
Both were more expensive...<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br></div></div><div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5">
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/parkanzky@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>

--94eb2c05d26cdf15ec053026df01--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0407941285372870072==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 19:29:16 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 14:36:22 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered
> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers,
> and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.  I
> finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small
> battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.

I agree that it's unfortunate that the batteries eventually die, and 
there can be a DRAMATIC difference in battery life between good ones and 
cheap replacements.

My first 'real' cordless tool was a 9.6V Makita drill, purchased at the 
recently-opened Price Club sometime back in the Reagan Administration I 
think, and on two battery packs it lasted well into its obsolescence 
though for power it was not remotely competitive with a decent corded 
drill.

 From there I picked up a used 14V Milwaukee nicad drill off eBay for 
almost nothing (it was SERIOUSLY ugly), and a couple new battery packs, 
and that thing did three years of seriously hard work until I dropped it 
from the top of a 15 foot ladder onto a concrete slab.

At that point my brother-in-law gave me his 14V DeWalt set, and I bought 
another, and ended up with two drills and five batteries total. 
Destroyed one of the drills and one of the batteries IIRC in various 
mishaps over the subsequent decade, still have three batteries with 
useful capacity.

In the meantime I'd picked up an 18V Milwaukee sawzall with two 
batteries, which while nowhere near as powerful as the corded one did 
tons of useful work though both the original batteries petered out 
within about five years.   Tried a couple cheap no-name  eBay 
replacements and they lasted about six months each.

Nicads like to be cycled and the tools used more often seem to get 
better battery life.

I've recently picked up a 20V DeWalt Li-Ion drill and the 'shorty' 
DeWalt recip saw that has the motor bent down at a 45-degree angle. 
Both are very powerful, as well as lighter (why I never bought an 18V 
nicad drill, the 14.4V was heavy enough) and the biggest problem I have 
with either is that the speed control on the recip saw trigger is not 
progressive enough.  Currently have 2 2amp batteries and 1 5amp and it's 
good to be able to cycle all the batteries on all the tools though the 
2amp batteries don't last very long when you're chopping up tree 
branches for the recycling bin.

Too early in the ownership cycle to say much about battery life on those.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 21:18:39 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 17:36:10 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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 > I have a full set of corded tools; when I need to do some serious 
hole creation I dig out the old Milwaukee "Hole Shooter" and
> however much cord is needed.

The disposable stuff is still better corded; the Harbor Freight 'Chicago
Electric' angle grinder is still one of mankind's greater bargains, I've
bought close to a dozen over the past decade and a half, one or two have
died for various reasons, I've killed one or two accidentally or
intentionally, I've got about six in the drawer right now.

For $20 or so you can, when necessary (as I've done) sacrifice one to
some higher purpose (go to drawer and select one of your ten-year-old HF
grinders, wrench on tile blade, don thick rubber gloves, turn on hose,
instant hand-held wet-saw to cut vent hole in brickwork around barbecue.
  It finished the job before expiring. I made the sign of the cross
before committing the red-dust-encrusted hulk to the garbage can, it had
lived an honorable life and deserved a decent burial.)

And I wouldn't trust at this point any battery-fueled Cheap Chinese
brands without a five-year track record of battery life.  My expectation
of a Harbor Freight cordless - or even low-end store-brands, in which
alas I have to include Craftsman these days - would be a year or two.

John.



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 10 22:09:50 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 18:38:11 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
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Don't forget to pay attention to the capacity of the battery packs. The 
entry level Makita comes with a 1AH battery.  For a little more, you can 
get the next step with a 3AH battery.  Also watch for sales and "special 
buys" on replacement batteries.  After I fried a battery pack using a 
cordless drill to mix thinset, I found the Orange box had 3AH batteries 
at $99 for a two pack - the same price as a single battery in the 
regular package.  I got lucky that week if finding one still in the 
store - had to hunt as it was in the wrong place behind something else.  
The worker said the contractors had bought them all up in the first few 
days.

I once bought a replacement Dewalt 12V drill at Costco just for the two 
battery packs, only to find out they were less capacity and ran out real 
quick.  Bummer there.

I thought Rigid cordless tools had lifetime battery replacement if you 
registered them.  That sounds like a good deal if there isn't fine print 
to get the replacement.

Brian

On 4/9/2016 9:02 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car 
> list, but I'm in the market for a battery drill/driver/sander/etc. 
> combo to replace my ancient--but still working--Makita 9V 
> driver-drill.  I want something with all the 'goodies;' I'll need the 
> usual driver/drill, but also need a portable sander (belt and/or 
> disc), and at least the option for more attachments.
>
> I know I probably can't lose with DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita or even 
> Craftsman--hell, they might all come out of the same factory in China 
> for all I know--but would like to see if there's a consensus on best 
> overall.  Is more voltage always better, or is 14.4V better for some 
> reason than 19.2V, etc.?    My main issue, and the reason I haven't 
> retired the old Makita yet, is that the batteries always seem to lose 
> capacity over time.  The 9V Makita is nickel-metal-hydride, and both 
> the OEM--which are too expensive IMO--and cheap, off-brand aftermarket 
> ones all lose charge when not used, and lose capacity after repeated 
> charging.  I know Li-Ion is better, but a battery is a battery, and 
> they all will lose some capacity over time.
>
> Any and all opinions, rants, etc. welcome.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>
>

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Battmain" <battmain@yahoo.com>,
	"shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A40CE986E193426885764E5C3A4D4B34@UserPC>
 <1283672988.346253.1460319687351.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 20:55:46 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============6098100143795149671==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005F_01D1936B.5B28A870"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_005F_01D1936B.5B28A870
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Brian, et al
thanks for the detail... I forgot my TV has a wireless hookup... could =
never get it to work so forgot about it... I=E2=80=99ve installed an =
extender lately and the TV grabbed it right away.. 4 bars and Netflix =
got the hook up...

thanks all for the info...  and I didn=E2=80=99t have to buy anything =
extra... I=E2=80=99m liking that part.

john

From: Battmain=20
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 3:21 PM
To: john niolon=20
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse

Netflix just uses the internet to stream the shows. U-verse is ATT's =
brand of both internet and tv bundle.  Depending on what you're using =
Netflix on, there are several ways to get it to the TV. Previously =
mentioned Roku boxes, Amazon Fire box/stick, even a laptop or PC. All of =
the boxes and phones, connect to the TV somehow. Think video out and =
video in on the TV.  That's all those boxes are doing.  I've run =
streamed movies from the laptop to the tv. Works fine.  Although I have =
a good dual core router, it balks sometimes on wireless, so when you're =
streaming, might be best to hook up the ethernet cable to the device if =
possible. The other option which you're looking for (turn on TV and =
watch) is to get a 'smart' tv. It has the app built in to get netflix =
directly on the TV instead of using previously mentioned devices. So =
several ways to get what you want.  I'm still leery of 'smart' TV's =
because some of them have cameras built in, and the security isn't that =
good.


Brian




-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
  From: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
  To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>=20
  Sent: Saturday, April 9, 2016 11:26 PM
  Subject: [Shop-talk] Netflix and U-verse


  wondering if there is a way to get Netflix thru U-verse...   some =
limited reading makes me think no...   anyone got a work around that =
doesn=E2=80=99t involve using my laptop or my phone...  love to just =
turn  on the TV and do it

  thanks
  john

  _______________________________________________

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------=_NextPart_000_005F_01D1936B.5B28A870
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Brian, et al</DIV>
<DIV>thanks for the detail... I forgot my TV has a wireless hookup... =
could=20
never get it to work so forgot about it... I=E2=80=99ve installed an =
extender lately and=20
the TV grabbed it right away.. 4 bars and Netflix got the hook =
up...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>thanks all for the info...&nbsp; and I didn=E2=80=99t have to buy =
anything extra...=20
I=E2=80=99m liking that part.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>john</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dbattmain@yahoo.com=20
href=3D"mailto:battmain@yahoo.com">Battmain</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, April 10, 2016 3:21 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Djniolon@att.net =
href=3D"mailto:jniolon@att.net">john=20
niolon</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Shop-talk] Netflix and =
U-verse</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue-light, helvetica =
neue light, helvetica neue, helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif; =
COLOR: #000; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129393 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129408>Netflix just uses the =
internet to=20
stream the shows. U-verse is ATT's brand of both internet and tv =
bundle.&nbsp;=20
Depending on what you're using Netflix on, there are several ways to get =
it to=20
the TV. Previously mentioned Roku boxes, Amazon Fire box/stick, even a =
laptop or=20
PC. All of the boxes and phones, connect to the TV somehow. Think video =
out and=20
video in on the TV.&nbsp; That's all those boxes are doing.&nbsp; I've =
run=20
streamed movies from the laptop to the tv. Works fine.&nbsp; Although I =
have a=20
good dual core router, it balks sometimes on wireless, so when you're =
streaming,=20
might be best to hook up the ethernet cable to the device if possible. =
The other=20
option which you're looking for (turn on TV and watch) is to get a =
'smart' tv.=20
It has the app built in to get netflix directly on the TV instead of =
using=20
previously mentioned devices. So several ways to get what you =
want.&nbsp; I'm=20
still leery of 'smart' TV's because some of them have cameras built in, =
and the=20
security isn't that good.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129394 =
dir=3Dltr><SPAN><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129405 dir=3Dltr><SPAN=20
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129501>Brian</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129251=20
class=3DqtdSeparateBR><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129256 class=3Dyahoo_quoted=20
style=3D"DISPLAY: block">
<BLOCKQUOTE id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129255=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: =
rgb(16,16,255) 2px solid; MARGIN-TOP: 5px">
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129254=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue-light, helvetica =
neue light, helvetica neue, helvetica, arial, lucida grande, =
sans-serif">
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129253=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: helveticaneue, helvetica neue, =
helvetica, arial, lucida grande, sans-serif">
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129252 dir=3Dltr><FONT=20
  id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129257 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
  <HR id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129404 SIZE=3D1>
  <B><SPAN style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> john niolon=20
  &lt;jniolon@att.net&gt;<BR><B =
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129583><SPAN=20
  id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129582=20
  style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> shop-talk=20
  &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt; <BR><B><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Saturday, April 9, 2016 =
11:26=20
  PM<BR><B id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129585><SPAN=20
  id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129584=20
  style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> [Shop-talk] Netflix =
and=20
  U-verse<BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129399 =
class=3Dy_msg_container>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV id=3Dyiv5751917906>
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129398 dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129397 dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129396=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129395>wondering if there is =
a way to=20
  get Netflix thru U-verse...&nbsp;&nbsp; some limited reading makes me =
think=20
  no...&nbsp;&nbsp; anyone got a work around that doesn=E2=80=99t =
involve using my=20
  laptop or my phone...&nbsp; love to just turn&nbsp; on the TV and do =
it</DIV>
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129403>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1460171411096_129402>thanks</DIV>
  =
<DIV>john</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR>______________________________=
_________________<BR><BR><A=20
  href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net"=20
  =
ymailto=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</A><=
BR>Donate:=20
  <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"=20
  target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>Suggested =
annual=20
  donation&nbsp; $12.96<BR>Archive: <A =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"=20
  target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/archive</A><BR>Forums: <A=20
  href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums"=20
  target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/forums</A><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
<A=20
  =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@yahoo.co=
m"=20
  =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@=
yahoo.com</A><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV><=
/DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 20:17:42 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more 
interesting and amusing than expected.  What a classy list (JK).

One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than 
technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.  I only have 
a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery 
chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no 
greenie; I own two old British sports cars).  In fact, as I near the end 
of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned about 
not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying 
decision.  The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought that 
way at times myself.  If you don't have a charged battery on hand, it's 
quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is available.



On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:
> On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
>> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered
>> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers,
>> and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them. I
>> finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small
>> battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.
>
>
>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not to hijack but thought I'd chime in on the battery disposal part of this conversation.....

I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will recycle your flat batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a pound. Well, I just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open anyway so don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only one who drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about doing this.)

carry on
tim

________________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools

Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more
interesting and amusing than expected.  What a classy list (JK).

One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than
technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.  I only have
a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery
chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no
greenie; I own two old British sports cars).  In fact, as I near the end
of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned about
not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying
decision.  The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought that
way at times myself.  If you don't have a charged battery on hand, it's
quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is available.



On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:
> On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
>> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered
>> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers,
>> and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them. I
>> finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small
>> battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.
>
>
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 11 05:56:36 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 07:02:46 -0400
 04/11/2016 07:02:58, Serialize complete at 04/11/2016 07:02:58
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============7087083877383773863==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 003F813F85257F92_=

Tim,

Not to play "one upsman" but if you find your local scrap metal recycler, 
they will pay YOU per pound.

There is money in dead rechargeable batteries (of any type.)


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 003F813F85257F92_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Tim,</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Not to play &quot;one upsman&quot; but
if you find your local scrap metal recycler, they will pay YOU per pound.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">There is money in dead rechargeable
batteries (of any type.)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 003F813F85257F92_=--

--===============7087083877383773863==
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 07:37:50 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

"I realize this is like bringing up 'best oil' or 'best tires' on a car list..:"


For what it's worth, I bought a set of Ryobi tools with lithium
batteries at the local outlet store about eight years ago.  One of the
batteries has become somewhat weak*, but will still get small jobs
done.   Ryobi is a brand that is almost universally reviled on the GJ
and other forms where such things are discussed, but I couldn't have
bought a battery of any other brand for the price I paid for four
tools and two batteries, and they've served me just fine for household
use.

I think the consensus here is go lithium, and go single-brand so you
can stick with one battery.  That makes sense to me.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.


* The weak battery is the one that never showed anything but dead on
the charge indicator - but it always had a charge.  Probably why it
was at the outlet store in the first place.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 08:24:37 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
 <CA+k5supELaJYdz8FfmkZty4LKZzrp4HfY2s8PaDuaNjo=Kk6dg@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1148868823851877010==
	boundary="=====================_2188943==.ALT"

--=====================_2188943==.ALT

At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote:

 >I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will 
recycle your flat
 >batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 
a pound. Well, I
 >just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they 
open anyway so
 >don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only one who
 >drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad 
about doing this.)

Also check you local Libruaries.  Our main city libruary takes small 
batteries, not
car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).  But 
it's the only place
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.

John



>carry on
>tim
>
>________________________________________
>From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob 
>Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM
>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
>
>Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more
>interesting and amusing than expected.  What a classy list (JK).
>
>One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than
>technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.  I only have
>a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery
>chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no
>greenie; I own two old British sports cars).  In fact, as I near the end
>of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned about
>not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying
>decision.  The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought that
>way at times myself.  If you don't have a charged battery on hand, it's
>quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is available.
>
>
>
>On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:
> > On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
> >> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered
> >> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers,
> >> and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them. I
> >> finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small
> >> battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.
> >
> >
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jblair1948@cox.net

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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<html>
<body>
<font size=3>At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote:<br><br>
&gt;I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will
recycle your flat<br>
&gt;batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a
pound. Well, I <br>
&gt;just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open
anyway so <br>
&gt;don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only
one who <br>
&gt;drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about
doing this.)<br><br>
Also check you local Libruaries.&nbsp; Our main city libruary takes small
batteries, not<br>
car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).&nbsp; But
it's the only place <br>
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.<br><br>
John<br><br>
<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">carry on<br>
tim<br><br>
________________________________________<br>
From: Shop-talk &lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Bob
Spidell &lt;bspidell@comcast.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM<br>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools<br><br>
Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more<br>
interesting and amusing than expected.&nbsp; What a classy list
(JK).<br><br>
One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than<br>
technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.&nbsp; I only
have<br>
a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery<br>
chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no<br>
greenie; I own two old British sports cars).&nbsp; In fact, as I near the
end<br>
of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned
about<br>
not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying<br>
decision.&nbsp; The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought
that<br>
way at times myself.&nbsp; If you don't have a charged battery on hand,
it's<br>
quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is
available.<br><br>
<br><br>
On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:<br>
&gt; On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt; I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery
powered<br>
&gt;&gt; tools.&nbsp; I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless
chargers,<br>
&gt;&gt; and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.
I<br>
&gt;&gt; finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very
small<br>
&gt;&gt; battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered
drills, etc.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br><br>
_______________________________________________<br><br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
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<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/www/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1148868823851877010==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 11 07:43:46 2016
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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 08:12:46 -0500
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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Around here Lowes & Home Depot have drop boxes for batteries & fluorescent b=
ulbs.=20

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Apr 11, 2016, at 7:24 AM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote:

>I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will recycle yo=
ur flat
>batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a pound.=
 Well, I=20
>just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open anyway=
 so=20
>don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only one who=
=20
>drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about doing t=
his.)

Also check you local Libruaries.  Our main city libruary takes small batteri=
es, not
car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).  But it's the o=
nly place=20
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.

John



> carry on
> tim
>=20
> ________________________________________
> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidel=
l <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
>=20
> Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more
> interesting and amusing than expected.  What a classy list (JK).
>=20
> One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than
> technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.  I only have
> a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery
> chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no
> greenie; I own two old British sports cars).  In fact, as I near the end
> of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned about
> not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying
> decision.  The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought that
> way at times myself.  If you don't have a charged battery on hand, it's
> quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is available.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:
> > On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
> >> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered=

> >> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers,
> >> and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them. I
> >> finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small
> >> battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.=

> >
> >
> >
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tims_d=
atsun_stuff@outlook.com=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jblair=
1948@cox.net

	Virus-free. www.avast.com

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

=46rom Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
     e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
     In God We Trust
     Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for=20
                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction=20


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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Around here Lowes &amp; Home Depot have drop boxes for batteries &amp; fluorescent bulbs.&nbsp;<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Apr 11, 2016, at 7:24 AM, John T. Blair &lt;<a href="mailto:jblair1948@cox.net">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div>

<font size="3">At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote:<br><br>
&gt;I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will
recycle your flat<br>
&gt;batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a
pound. Well, I <br>
&gt;just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open
anyway so <br>
&gt;don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only
one who <br>
&gt;drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about
doing this.)<br><br>
Also check you local Libruaries.&nbsp; Our main city libruary takes small
batteries, not<br>
car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).&nbsp; But
it's the only place <br>
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.<br><br>
John<br><br>
<br><br>
</font><blockquote type="cite" class="cite" cite=""><font size="3">carry on<br>
tim<br><br>
________________________________________<br>
From: Shop-talk &lt;<a href="mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; on behalf of Bob
Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM<br>
To: <a href="mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools<br><br>
Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more<br>
interesting and amusing than expected.&nbsp; What a classy list
(JK).<br><br>
One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than<br>
technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.&nbsp; I only
have<br>
a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery<br>
chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no<br>
greenie; I own two old British sports cars).&nbsp; In fact, as I near the
end<br>
of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned
about<br>
not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying<br>
decision.&nbsp; The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought
that<br>
way at times myself.&nbsp; If you don't have a charged battery on hand,
it's<br>
quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is
available.<br><br>
<br><br>
On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:<br>
&gt; On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt; I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery
powered<br>
&gt;&gt; tools.&nbsp; I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless
chargers,<br>
&gt;&gt; and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.
I<br>
&gt;&gt; finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very
small<br>
&gt;&gt; battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered
drills, etc.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br><br>
_______________________________________________<br><br>
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<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
<a href="mailto:jblair1948@cox.net">jblair1948@cox.net</a></div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/www/morgan" eudora="AUTOURL">
www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" eudora="AUTOURL">www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, "from many,
one."</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>

</div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>
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From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 08:13:39 -0500
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8885093246884307905==

--001a113e018e4c2e5b05303551eb

Our local Lowes/HomeDepot has a box inside the front door where they take
batteries for recycling.

Randy


On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 7:24 AM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

> At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote:
>
> >I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will recycle
> your flat
> >batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a
> pound. Well, I
> >just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open
> anyway so
> >don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only one
> who
> >drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about
> doing this.)
>
> Also check you local Libruaries.  Our main city libruary takes small
> batteries, not
> car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).  But it's
> the only place
> I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.
>
> John
>
>
>
> carry on
> tim
>
> ________________________________________
> From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
> Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools
>
> Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more
> interesting and amusing than expected.  What a classy list (JK).
>
> One aspect that isn't mentioned--and it's 'philosophical' more than
> technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.  I only have
> a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery
> chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I'm no
> greenie; I own two old British sports cars).  In fact, as I near the end
> of my warranty--I'm 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned about
> not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying
> decision.  The vote for tethered use is compelling; I've thought that
> way at times myself.  If you don't have a charged battery on hand, it's
> quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is available.
>
>
>
> On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:
> > On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
> >> I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery powered
> >> tools.  I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless chargers,
> >> and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them. I
> >> finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very small
> >> battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered drills, etc.
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
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>
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>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
>

--001a113e018e4c2e5b05303551eb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Our local Lowes/HomeDepot has a box inside the front door =
where they take batteries for recycling.<div><br></div><div>Randy</div><div=
><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 7:24 AM, John T. Blair <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt=
;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<font size=3D"3">At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote:<br><br>
&gt;I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will
recycle your flat<br>
&gt;batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a
pound. Well, I <br>
&gt;just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open
anyway so <br>
&gt;don&#39;t have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only
one who <br>
&gt;drops batteries off when they are not open so I don&#39;t feel bad abou=
t
doing this.)<br><br>
Also check you local Libruaries.=C2=A0 Our main city libruary takes small
batteries, not<br>
car type, and I don&#39;t know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).=C2=A0 But
it&#39;s the only place <br>
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.<br><br>
John<br><br>
<br><br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">carry on<br>
tim<br><br>
________________________________________<br>
From: Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" tar=
get=3D"_blank">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; on behalf of Bob
Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">bspid=
ell@comcast.net</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:17 PM<br>
To: <a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">shop-talk=
@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools<br><br>
Wow ... this topic is right up there with politics and proving more<br>
interesting and amusing than expected.=C2=A0 What a classy list
(JK).<br><br>
One aspect that isn&#39;t mentioned--and it&#39;s &#39;philosophical&#39; m=
ore than<br>
technical (well, maybe not)--is disposal of the batteries.=C2=A0 I only
have<br>
a couple years of chemistry but know enough to know that all battery<br>
chemistries are bad news for the environment, on both ends (I&#39;m no<br>
greenie; I own two old British sports cars).=C2=A0 In fact, as I near the
end<br>
of my warranty--I&#39;m 62 soon-to-be 63--I find myself more concerned
about<br>
not leaving too big a mess behind; so that will enter into my buying<br>
decision.=C2=A0 The vote for tethered use is compelling; I&#39;ve thought
that<br>
way at times myself.=C2=A0 If you don&#39;t have a charged battery on hand,
it&#39;s<br>
quicker to untangle the extension cord anyway, if power is
available.<br><br>
<br><br>
On 4/10/2016 2:36 PM, John Miller wrote:<br>
&gt; On 4/10/2016 8:52 AM, steve hochschild wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt; I am raising my hand to mention that I have given up on battery
powered<br>
&gt;&gt; tools.=C2=A0 I have a huge collection of dead batteries, useless
chargers,<br>
&gt;&gt; and drill carcasses that make me mad every time I look at them.
I<br>
&gt;&gt; finally realized that all I really wanted was one of those very
small<br>
&gt;&gt; battery screwdrivers, under $20, and regular, line-powered
drills, etc.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br><br>
_______________________________________________<br><br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
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om</a>
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ox.team.net</a><br>
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ast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=
=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient&amp;utm_term=3Doa-2200-b" target=
=3D"_blank"><img src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/2016/icons/icon-env=
elope-tick-round-orange-v1.png"></a></td>
		<td style=3D"width:470px;padding-top:15px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;fo=
nt-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">Virus-free. <a href=
=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlin=
k&amp;utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&amp;utm_content=3Demailclient&amp;utm_term=
=3Doa-2200-b" style=3D"color:#4453ea" target=3D"_blank">www.avast.com</a>
		</td>
	</tr>
</tbody></table></div>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair=C2=A0 WA4OHZ=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 email:=C2=A0
<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net<=
/a></div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
Phone:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"tel:%28757%29%20495-8229" value=3D"+17574958229" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">(757) 495-8229</a></div>
<br>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 48
TR1800=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 48 #4 Midget=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
77 Spitfire=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/www/morgan" target=3D"_blank">
www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:=C2=A0
<a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/" target=3D"_blank">www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 In God We Trust</div>
<div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Liberty - the=C2=A0 power=C2=A0 of=C2=A0
choosing,=C2=A0 thinking,=C2=A0 and=C2=A0 acting=C2=A0 for=C2=A0 </div>
<div>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
oneself; freedom=C2=A0 from=C2=A0 control=C2=A0 or=C2=A0
restriction=C2=A0 </div>
<br>
<br>

<br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/rande@pobox.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Thread-Index: AQHRk+Gtzi+HognBRk+TAWYVtrPnop+EwbJ5
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 13:21:20 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Hey Eric,


Well hell, this is great information. I had no clue. No clue at all. I rare=
ly get to the scrapper and even less now that scrap is so low.


Thanks for passing this information along!!


No worries on  "one upsman"...it never even would have crossed my mind.




________________________________
From: eric@megageek.com <eric@megageek.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 6:02 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Cc: Tim .
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent

Tim,

Not to play "one upsman" but if you find your local scrap metal recycler, t=
hey will pay YOU per pound.

There is money in dead rechargeable batteries (of any type.)


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational b=
eing are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo=
 Emerson

--_000_SN1PR13MB05424C41A7683D74A4A10515B4940SN1PR13MB0542namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Hey Eric,&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Well hell, this is great information. I had no clue. No clue at all. I r=
arely get to the scrapper and even less now that scrap is so low.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks for passing this information along!!</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>No worries on&nbsp;<span style=3D"font-family: sans-serif; font-size: sm=
all;">&nbsp;&quot;one upsman&quot;...it never even would have crossed my mi=
nd.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br>
</span></p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> eric@megageek.com &lt=
;eric@megageek.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 11, 2016 6:02 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Tim .<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal =
tangent</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Tim,</font> <br>
<br>
<font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Not to play &quot;one upsman&quot; but=
 if you find your local scrap metal recycler, they will pay YOU per pound.<=
/font>
<br>
<br>
<font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">There is money in dead rechargeable ba=
tteries (of any type.)</font>
<br>
<font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; R=
alph Waldo Emerson
</font></div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 14:46:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: rande@pobox.com
References: <570927A6.2070700@comcast.net>
 <CA+k5supELaJYdz8FfmkZty4LKZzrp4HfY2s8PaDuaNjo=Kk6dg@mail.gmail.com>
 <570A76AF.4090800@att.net> <570AC756.2020702@milleredp.com>
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Cc: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
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I know a lot of places take batteries, fluorescent bulbs, etc. for recycling, but I have a sneaking suspicion--backed up by some investigative reporting I've seen--that a lot of the 'recycled' stuff ends up in rivers in China (presumably after any valuable components and metals are removed). 

You might ask: "Why do you care? It's China!" but I see the Earth as an extended neighborhood--like I said, I'm no greenie, but as a (nominal*) engineer I hate waste--and all the filth deposited in third world countries and our own are like having a neighbor with an overgrown lawn and garden and garbage on display. Just not cool (and not good for property values, either). 


(*) a lot of people in my profession are called software 'engineers,' but since I have no professional certification I think 'programmer' is more appropriate (but I hate 'coder;' it belittles the craft) 

----- Original Message -----



Our local Lowes/HomeDepot has a box inside the front door where they take batteries for recycling. 

Randy 


On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 7:24 AM, John T. Blair < jblair1948@cox.net > wrote: 



At 07:09 AM 4/11/2016, Tim wrote: 

>I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will recycle your flat 
>batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a pound. Well, I 
>just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open anyway so 
>don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only one who 
>drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about doing this.) 

Also check you local Libruaries. Our main city libruary takes small batteries, not 
car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion). But it's the only place 
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads. 

John 





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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>I know a lot of places take batteries, fluorescent bulbs, etc. for=
 recycling, but I have a sneaking suspicion--backed up by some investigativ=
e reporting I've seen--that a lot of the 'recycled' stuff ends up in rivers=
 in China (presumably after any valuable components and metals are removed)=
.<br></div><div><br></div><div>You might ask: "Why do you care?&nbsp; It's =
China!"&nbsp; but I see the Earth as an extended neighborhood--like I said,=
 I'm no greenie, but as a (nominal*) engineer I hate waste--and all the fil=
th deposited in third world countries and our own are like having a neighbo=
r with an overgrown lawn and garden and garbage on display.&nbsp; Just not =
cool (and not good for property values, either).<br></div><div><br></div><d=
iv><br></div><div>(*) a lot of people in my profession are called software =
'engineers,' but since I have no professional certification I think 'progra=
mmer' is more appropriate (but I hate 'coder;' it belittles the craft)<br><=
/div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:n=
ormal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sa=
ns-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Our local Low=
es/HomeDepot has a box inside the front door where they take batteries for =
recycling.<div><br></div><div>Randy</div><div><br></div></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 7:24 A=
M, John T. Blair <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net=
" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc soli=
d;padding-left:1ex">
<br><div>
<span data-mce-style=3D"font-size: medium;" size=3D"3">At 07:09 AM 4/11/201=
6, Tim wrote:<br><div><br></div>
&gt;I believe that most people are not aware that batteriesplus will
recycle your flat<br>
&gt;batteries. Last time I called about it the guy said they charge $1 a
pound. Well, I <br>
&gt;just drop them off (right outside their front door) before they open
anyway so <br>
&gt;don't have to worry about putting any money out. (I am not the only
one who <br>
&gt;drops batteries off when they are not open so I don't feel bad about
doing this.)<br><div><br></div>
Also check you local Libruaries.&nbsp; Our main city libruary takes small
batteries, not<br>
car type, and I don't know about the tool batteries (LI-ion).&nbsp; But
it's the only place <br>
I could find that would take my alkaline and Ni Cads.<br><div><br></div>
John<br><div><br></div>
</span></div></blockquote></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 11:14:25 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey gang,

I went to get my car, a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on 
Sat.  When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors 
"cleaned".
Only $150!

My question to the group, is do you all have this done?  All I've seen on
shows like 60 min, is that the shops were telling people to have it done, and
then charging the customer, but not doing the work.

Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any good?

Is this a good as the "shop cleaning"?  I assume that they don't take 
the injectors off the engine, so really all they're doing is pumping 
a chemical through the system.  Maybe a little better than mixing 
with the fuel and
running it through the system.

If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones and how often?

Or is all this really snake oil?

TIA

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 11 14:26:19 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'ShopTalk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 10:28:50 -0700
Thread-Index: AdGUF5znCQOZBkQ5SJaudkxyKzgbng==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


> I know a lot of places take batteries, fluorescent bulbs, 
> etc. for recycling, but I have a sneaking suspicion--backed 
> up by some investigative reporting I've seen--that a lot of 
> the 'recycled' stuff ends up in rivers in China (presumably 
> after any valuable components and metals are removed).

Interesting.  That explains the disclaimer at http://www.lacsd.org/solidwaste/swfacilities/recyclecontact/hhw_e_waste/
"No electronic waste collected at these events is sent overseas."

I'm not arguing whether that is true or not; just didn't understand why it was worth mentioning.  Personally, I'm a lot less worried
about rivers in China than I am the landfill up the hill (from where I used to live).

Randall

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References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160411082501.04cd3298@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 13:44:20 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4560286560432940615==

--001a1142d1c2c32ea9053039eed9

I use Sea Foam, added to the fuel.  It seems to do the job and costs a lot
less than $150!  I say it seems to do the job because I have never really
had a problem with dirty or clogged injectors.  I know that sea foam does a
good job of cleaning clogged jets in carbs and it removes carbon deposits
form the head and valves pretty good. Those things I have has issues with
and you can see the results.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 10:14 AM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

> Hey gang,
>
> I went to get my car, a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on
> Sat.  When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors
> "cleaned".
> Only $150!
>
> My question to the group, is do you all have this done?  All I've seen on
> shows like 60 min, is that the shops were telling people to have it done,
> and
> then charging the customer, but not doing the work.
>
> Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any good?
>
> Is this a good as the "shop cleaning"?  I assume that they don't take the
> injectors off the engine, so really all they're doing is pumping a chemical
> through the system.  Maybe a little better than mixing with the fuel and
> running it through the system.
>
> If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones and how often?
>
> Or is all this really snake oil?
>
> TIA
>
> John
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
>
>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--001a1142d1c2c32ea9053039eed9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I use Sea Foam, added to the fuel.=C2=A0 It seems to do th=
e job and costs a lot less than $150!=C2=A0 I say it seems to do the job be=
cause I have never really had a problem with dirty or clogged injectors.=C2=
=A0 I know that sea foam does a good job of cleaning clogged jets in carbs =
and it removes carbon deposits form the head and valves pretty good. Those =
things I have has issues with and you can see the results. =C2=A0 <br></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Apr 11, =
2016 at 10:14 AM, John T. Blair <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jbl=
air1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:=
<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-lef=
t:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hey gang,<br>
<br>
I went to get my car, a &#39;06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on S=
at.=C2=A0 When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors &=
quot;cleaned&quot;.<br>
Only $150!<br>
<br>
My question to the group, is do you all have this done?=C2=A0 All I&#39;ve =
seen on<br>
shows like 60 min, is that the shops were telling people to have it done, a=
nd<br>
then charging the customer, but not doing the work.<br>
<br>
Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any good?<br>
<br>
Is this a good as the &quot;shop cleaning&quot;?=C2=A0 I assume that they d=
on&#39;t take the injectors off the engine, so really all they&#39;re doing=
 is pumping a chemical through the system.=C2=A0 Maybe a little better than=
 mixing with the fuel and<br>
running it through the system.<br>
<br>
If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones and how often?<br>
<br>
Or is all this really snake oil?<br>
<br>
TIA<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
John T. Blair=C2=A0 WA4OHZ=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0email:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailt=
o:jblair1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@cox.net</a><br>
Va. Beach, Va=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=
 Phone:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"tel:%28757%29%20495-8229" value=3D"+17574958229" t=
arget=3D"_blank">(757) 495-8229</a><br>
<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 48 TR1800=C2=A0 =C2=A0 48 #4 Midget=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A075 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)=C2=A0 =C2=A0 77 Spitfire=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 71 Saab Sonett III<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A065 Rambler Classic<br>
<br>
Morgan:=C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/www/morgan" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer" target=3D"_blank">www.team.net/www/morgan</a><br>
Bricklin:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org" rel=3D"noreferrer" targ=
et=3D"_blank">www.bricklin.org</a><br>
<br>
If you can read this=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0- Thank=
 a teacher!<br>
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!<br>
<br>
>From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many, one.&quot;<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0In God We Trust<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Liberty - the=C2=A0 power=C2=A0 of=C2=A0 choosing,=C2=
=A0 thinking,=C2=A0 and=C2=A0 acting=C2=A0 for<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 oneself; fre=
edom=C2=A0 from=C2=A0 control=C2=A0 or=C2=A0 restriction<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
---<br>
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.<br>
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<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail_sig=
nature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with style whe=
n you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=A0 =
=3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
</div>

--001a1142d1c2c32ea9053039eed9--

--===============4560286560432940615==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4560286560432940615==--

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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 19:11:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160411082501.04cd3298@cox.net>
Thread-Topic: Fuel Injector Cleaners
Thread-Index: gL1GuvPRmnwwSqXtGwqxVLLd98q5Bw==
Cc: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5980209272389335526==
	boundary="----=_Part_9619697_1856300799.1460401907185"

------=_Part_9619697_1856300799.1460401907185
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Sounds like snake oil to me. If your car is running good and MPG hasn't diminished you don't need it. In the early days of FI injectors sometimes got gunked-up, but all fuels are now required to have at least the minimal amount of injector cleaner. My '08 Mustang has nearly 110,000 miles, and I've never put any crap in the thank besides fuel and, in fact, the owner's manual says do it and you might lose your warranty (long-expired now anyway). 





Hey gang, 

I went to get my car, a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on 
Sat. When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors 
"cleaned". 
Only $150! 

My question to the group, is do you all have this done? All I've seen on 
shows like 60 min, is that the shops were telling people to have it done, and 
then charging the customer, but not doing the work. 

Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any good? 

Is this a good as the "shop cleaning"? I assume that they don't take 
the injectors off the engine, so really all they're doing is pumping 
a chemical through the system. Maybe a little better than mixing 
with the fuel and 
running it through the system. 

If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones and how often? 

Or is all this really snake oil? 

TIA 

John 

John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net 
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 




------=_Part_9619697_1856300799.1460401907185
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Sounds like snake oil to me.&nbsp; If =
your car is running good and MPG hasn't diminished you don't need it.&nbsp;=
 In the early days of FI injectors sometimes got gunked-up, but all fuels a=
re now required to have at least the minimal amount of injector cleaner.&nb=
sp; My '08 Mustang has nearly 110,000 miles, and I've never put any crap in=
 the thank besides fuel and, in fact, the owner's manual says do it and you=
 might lose your warranty (long-expired now anyway).<br></div><div aria-lab=
el=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><d=
iv><br></div><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;=
text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;=
" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; t=
ext-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 1=
2pt;"><br><div><br></div>Hey gang,<br><div><br></div>I went to get my car, =
a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on <br>Sat. &nbsp;When it was =
done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors <br>"cleaned".<br>Only =
$150!<br><div><br></div>My question to the group, is do you all have this d=
one? &nbsp;All I've seen on<br>shows like 60 min, is that the shops were te=
lling people to have it done, and<br>then charging the customer, but not do=
ing the work.<br><div><br></div>Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any g=
ood?<br><div><br></div>Is this a good as the "shop cleaning"? &nbsp;I assum=
e that they don't take <br>the injectors off the engine, so really all they=
're doing is pumping <br>a chemical through the system. &nbsp;Maybe a littl=
e better than mixing <br>with the fuel and<br>running it through the system=
.<br><div><br></div>If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones an=
d how often?<br><div><br></div>Or is all this really snake oil?<br><div><br=
></div>TIA<br><div><br></div>John<br><div><br></div>John T. Blair &nbsp;WA4=
OHZ &nbsp; &nbsp; email: &nbsp;jblair1948@cox.net<br>Va. Beach, Va &nbsp; &=
nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Phone: &nbsp;(757) 49=
5-8229<br><br><div><br></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 11 19:36:28 2016
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Thread-Index: AQHRlBoSkBlaDc+4OECGcnOcc5ksgp+FPDqk
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 20:45:27 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
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first question would be why they recommended it.  Sounds like a bit of an upsell.

Never had the in-car procedure done, but I have sent off sets to Marren Injection to have them done, and never got back a set that DIDn't need a bit of cleaning. But at least they do a full cleaning, blueprinting, etc. so you know what you're getting back. Those cars were turbo'd or tracked so were cases where a lazy injector could cost you an engine or a cylinder. 

I'd say if you aren't seeing issues, drivability or mpg related, and don't do any track or performance driving (I know it's an xB) then save the money.  

________________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 11:14 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners

Hey gang,

I went to get my car, a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on
Sat.  When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors
"cleaned".
Only $150!

My question to the group, is do you all have this done?  All I've seen on
shows like 60 min, is that the shops were telling people to have it done, and
then charging the customer, but not doing the work.

Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any good?

Is this a good as the "shop cleaning"?  I assume that they don't take
the injectors off the engine, so really all they're doing is pumping
a chemical through the system.  Maybe a little better than mixing
with the fuel and
running it through the system.

If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones and how often?

Or is all this really snake oil?

TIA

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 11 20:25:54 2016
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 17:19:12 -0400
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160411082501.04cd3298@cox.net>
 <h8lV1s00g4jgcrD018lVsm>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6912515941184433158==
	boundary="=====================_34428094==.ALT"

--=====================_34428094==.ALT

Thanks to all those that answered.

Michael asked, "did you ask them what in the readings suggested the need?"

No I didn't ask.  Didn't think of it.

And no, I haven't noticed any missing, no check engine light, and no 
error codes
come up on my reader.

I think they were just looking at either the roughly 60K miles of the 
10 yrs of age.

This isn't the first time I've had a shop suggest having the 
injectors cleaned, but
no one as actually given me an error code, or a real reason, other 
than "it should
be done."

Last time someone said that to me I put a can of Sea Foam in like John
suggested.  I've used that and couple of other products and never had 
a problem.
But I don't use any product regularly.  I guess I probably should as 
a $5-$10 can
of something 1 or 2 times a year is cheap insurance and definately cheaper than
$150!

PJ said, "but I have sent off sets to Marren Injection to have them 
done,".  I've
heard of that before, but that is a lot more than $150.  Don't know 
if we still do
but there was a place in town that did the off vechile cleaning for 
the deisel trucks.

Thanks again for all the info.

John




John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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<html>
<body>
<font size=3>Thanks to all those that answered.<br><br>
Michael asked, &quot;did you ask them what in the readings suggested the
need?&quot;<br><br>
No I didn't ask.&nbsp; Didn't think of it.&nbsp; <br><br>
And no, I haven't noticed any missing, no check engine light, and no
error codes<br>
come up on my reader. <br><br>
I think they were just looking at either the roughly 60K miles of the 10
yrs of age.<br><br>
This isn't the first time I've had a shop suggest having the injectors
cleaned, but<br>
no one as actually given me an error code, or a real reason, other than
&quot;it should<br>
be done.&quot;<br><br>
Last time someone said that to me I put a can of Sea Foam in like John
<br>
suggested.&nbsp; I've used that and couple of other products and never
had a problem.<br>
But I don't use any product regularly.&nbsp; I guess I probably should as
a $5-$10 can<br>
of something 1 or 2 times a year is cheap insurance and definately
cheaper than<br>
$150!<br><br>
PJ said, &quot;but I have sent off sets to Marren Injection to have them
done,&quot;.&nbsp; I've<br>
heard of that before, but that is a lot more than $150.&nbsp; Don't know
if we still do<br>
but there was a place in town that did the off vechile cleaning for the
deisel trucks.<br><br>
Thanks again for all the info.<br><br>
John<br><br>
<br><br>
</font><br />
<table style="border-top: 1px solid #aaabb6;">
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</table></body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/www/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 11 22:07:01 2016
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 16:26:28 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>     I went to get my car, a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected
>     on Sat.  When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel
>     injectors "cleaned".
>     Only $150!

Why?

Is it idling unevenly?

Throwing codes saying one or more cylinders has maxed out its fuel trim?

If not, just buy 'Top Tier' gas and forget it.

John.

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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
	"John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160411082501.04cd3298@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 20:41:57 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> they suggested that I have the fuel injectors "cleaned".

I agree with the advice to not bother. If the car is sunning well, passes 
emissions and is driven regularly there should be no need for such 
treatment.

If there is a running issue I advise removing the injectors and sending them 
out for service. They can be cleaned in an ultrasonic bath and have solvents 
flowed threw them to restore neglected/gummed up injectors. I've used Cruzin 
Performance and OK Injectors when I brought some neglected Alfa's back to 
life. They test before & after.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
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John,

Is this a trusted shop that you regularly do business with?  It sounds like
an upsell to me. 

I buy the Techron injector cleaner at Costco (6 pack) when it's on sale and
put one bottle in every car during the summer and found that to be
sufficient that I don't think I've ever had an injector issue.  Seafoam,
Marvel Mystery Oil are two that I've heard people like too.  I suspect just
using one of the better grades of fuel (Top Tier?) which has cleaners in it
would be fine also.  

My cost for the Techron at Costco is about $3/car/year.  That is about what
I think the injector clogging issue is worth with today's fuel and cars.  I
would not go anywhere near a $150 injector flush.  If the injectors truly
are dirty, your emissions and drivability may suffer and you should get them
cleaned professionally (ultrasonic) for about $25-$30/injector.  This would
be a far better investment.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
T. Blair
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 8:14 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners

Hey gang,

I went to get my car, a '06 Scion xB /w 54,000 mi, state inspected on Sat.
When it was done, they suggested that I have the fuel injectors "cleaned".
Only $150!

My question to the group, is do you all have this done?  All I've seen on
shows like 60 min, is that the shops were telling people to have it done,
and then charging the customer, but not doing the work.

Are any of the in the bottle cleaners any good?

Is this a good as the "shop cleaning"?  I assume that they don't take the
injectors off the engine, so really all they're doing is pumping a chemical
through the system.  Maybe a little better than mixing with the fuel and
running it through the system.

If you recommend a cleaner in the bottle, which ones and how often?

Or is all this really snake oil?

TIA

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

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 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
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 <C3.1B.11244.2DEDB075@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2016 11:19:39 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 1:28 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
> Personally, I'm a lot less worried
> about rivers in China than I am the landfill up the hill (from where I used to live).

To be sure, the land fill is more immediate.  However, it's much more
likely to be equipped with a liner and a leachate collection system
that ensures any fugitive emissions will be collected and properly
treated.  Not so much the river in China.

Having said that, it appears there are certainly cases where it's
better to toss the trash rather than recycle it.  At work, I'm not
allowed to recycle electronics unless the recycler is certified to
properly handle and dispose of the waste.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 12 16:21:19 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2016 08:44:37 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fuel Injector Cleaners
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> I think they were just looking at either the roughly 60K miles of the 10
> yrs of age.

60K is nothing these days.

The OBD-II monitoring in the ECU tracks the fuel trim, and will throw a 
code if the ECU isn't able to get things good enough.

If it's running reasonably well, passes smog, doesn't throw codes, then 
don't worry about it.

John.
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Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2016 21:03:39 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <C3.1B.11244.2DEDB075@cdptpa-oedge02>
Thread-Topic: Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Thread-Index: AdGUF5znCQOZBkQ5SJaudkxyKzgbnpDVkQpV
Cc: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery-operated tools....battery disposal tangent
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Looks like most of the battery recycling is legit: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_recycling 

The other stuff, not necessarily: 

http://www.cnn.com/2013/05/30/world/asia/china-electronic-waste-e-waste/ 

Understand only caring about what's 'up the hill,' but the planet is a closed loop; it'll end up in our air and water eventually. 


----- Original Message -----




> I know a lot of places take batteries, fluorescent bulbs, 
> etc. for recycling, but I have a sneaking suspicion--backed 
> up by some investigative reporting I've seen--that a lot of 
> the 'recycled' stuff ends up in rivers in China (presumably 
> after any valuable components and metals are removed). 

Interesting. That explains the disclaimer at http://www.lacsd.org/solidwaste/swfacilities/recyclecontact/hhw_e_waste/ 
"No electronic waste collected at these events is sent overseas." 

I'm not arguing whether that is true or not; just didn't understand why it was worth mentioning. Personally, I'm a lot less worried 
about rivers in China than I am the landfill up the hill (from where I used to live). 

Randall 





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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>Looks like most of the battery recycling is legit:<br></div><div><=
br></div><div><a href=3D"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_recycling">h=
ttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_recycling</a></div><div><br></div><div=
>The other stuff, not necessarily:<br></div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"=
http://www.cnn.com/2013/05/30/world/asia/china-electronic-waste-e-waste/">h=
ttp://www.cnn.com/2013/05/30/world/asia/china-electronic-waste-e-waste/</a>=
</div><div><br></div><div>Understand only caring about what's 'up the hill,=
' but the planet is a closed loop; it'll end up in our air and water eventu=
ally.<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D=
"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-=
family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div><br>&=
gt; I know a lot of places take batteries, fluorescent bulbs, <br>&gt; etc.=
 for recycling, but I have a sneaking suspicion--backed <br>&gt; up by some=
 investigative reporting I've seen--that a lot of <br>&gt; the 'recycled' s=
tuff ends up in rivers in China (presumably <br>&gt; after any valuable com=
ponents and metals are removed).<br><div><br></div>Interesting. &nbsp;That =
explains the disclaimer at http://www.lacsd.org/solidwaste/swfacilities/rec=
yclecontact/hhw_e_waste/<br>"No electronic waste collected at these events =
is sent overseas."<br><div><br></div>I'm not arguing whether that is true o=
r not; just didn't understand why it was worth mentioning. &nbsp;Personally=
, I'm a lot less worried<br>about rivers in China than I am the landfill up=
 the hill (from where I used to live).<br><div><br></div>Randall<br><div><b=
r></div><br><div><br></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2016 19:33:33 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Alternator terminals
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Our PE department got rid of a bunch of exercise equipment.  I pulled a 
nice commercial exercise bike out of the metal recycle and had the kids 
strip all the plastic off of it, and I found the guts of it are an 
automotive type alternator and a big resistor.  I want to hook it up as 
a current source for a battery charger/light bulbs/ammeter/something to 
give the kids an idea of how much actual work a KW is.

The alternator is a Mando 38611-101.   A picture of the alternator is here:

http://www.gympart.com/itemdesc.aspx?ic=LCA10

If you look at the picture on the link above and rotate it 90 degrees so 
the black plastic part is at 6:00, it has the following terminals:
On the black plastic part, "Ex" and "S".

On the main body of the alternator, clockwise from 8:00 the terminals 
are "L2", "P", "B" and "E".   There is also a ground terminal.

If you look a this chart,

> http://dasko.co.nz/articles/alternator-terminals-explained

It looks like all I would need to hook up to would be the "B" terminal 
and the ground and I can ignore the rest.

Do I have this right?

On an automotive alternator how fast does it normally have to spin to 
put out 12V?

Thanks
Dave









--------------070605060907050405090300
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>

    <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    Our PE department got rid of a bunch of exercise equipment.Â  I
    pulled a nice commercial exercise bike out of the metal recycle and
    had the kids strip all the plastic off of it, and I found the guts
    of it are an automotive type alternator and a big resistor.Â  I want
    to hook it up as a current source for a battery charger/light
    bulbs/ammeter/something to give the kids an idea of how much actual
    work a KW is.Â  <br>
    <br>
    The alternator is a Mando 38611-101. Â  A picture of the alternator
    is here:<br>
    <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.gympart.com/itemdesc.aspx?ic=LCA10">http://www.gympart.com/itemdesc.aspx?ic=LCA10</a><br>
    <br>
    If you look at the picture on the link above and rotate it 90
    degrees so the black plastic part is at 6:00, it has the following
    terminals:<br>
    On the black plastic part, "Ex" and "S".Â  <br>
    <br>
    On the main body of the alternator, clockwise from 8:00 the
    terminals are "L2", "P", "B" and "E".Â Â  There is also a ground
    terminal.Â  <br>
    <br>
    If you look a this chart,<br>
    <br>
    <blockquote type="cite"><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://dasko.co.nz/articles/alternator-terminals-explained">http://dasko.co.nz/articles/alternator-terminals-explained</a></blockquote>
    <br>
    It looks like all I would need to hook up to would be the "B"
    terminal and the ground and I can ignore the rest.Â  <br>
    <br>
    Do I have this right?Â  <br>
    <br>
    On an automotive alternator how fast does it normally have to spin
    to put out 12V?Â  <br>
    <br>
    Thanks<br>
    Dave<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
      <o:p></o:p><o:p></o:p><br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 14 04:07:19 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 02:18:55 -0700
Thread-Index: AdGWKLr20c92fsBRQ2Grzi3wHBD9IgAAsmvg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Alternator terminals
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> If you look a this chart,
> 
> 
> 
> 	http://dasko.co.nz/articles/alternator-terminals-explained
> 
> 
> It looks like all I would need to hook up to would be the "B" 
> terminal and the ground and I can ignore the rest.  
> 
> Do I have this right?  

You can try that, but I suspect the Ex terminal needs to get current through the warning lamp (which provides excitation when the
alternator first starts turning), and the S terminal needs to get battery voltage (The 'sense' input to the voltage regulator).  You
can use a resistor instead of the lamp, if you want, but you'll still need an external source of 12v to get it working (and a switch
to stop it from drawing current all the time).  Just jumper the S terminal to the B terminal, though.

> On an automotive alternator how fast does it normally have to 
> spin to put out 12V?  

They'll usually put out something with the engine idling, maybe 1000-1200 rpm at the alternator.  Full output requires more, though,
generally something like 5000-7000 at the alternator.

Randall

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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CC.60.29674.0806F075@cdptpa-oedge02>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 19:18:52 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Alternator terminals
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks; I'll give that a try.

We tried just connecting to the B and ground terminals with a meter and 
could never get higher than 5 VDC no matter how hard we pedaled and when 
I put a 12 volt lamp in the circuit it didn't even start to glow.

On 4/14/2016 2:18 AM, Randall wrote:
>> If you look a this chart,
>>
>>
>>
>> 	http://dasko.co.nz/articles/alternator-terminals-explained
>>
>>
>> It looks like all I would need to hook up to would be the "B"
>> terminal and the ground and I can ignore the rest.
>>
>> Do I have this right?
> You can try that, but I suspect the Ex terminal needs to get current through the warning lamp (which provides excitation when the
> alternator first starts turning), and the S terminal needs to get battery voltage (The 'sense' input to the voltage regulator).  You
> can use a resistor instead of the lamp, if you want, but you'll still need an external source of 12v to get it working (and a switch
> to stop it from drawing current all the time).  Just jumper the S terminal to the B terminal, though.
>
>> On an automotive alternator how fast does it normally have to
>> spin to put out 12V?
> They'll usually put out something with the engine idling, maybe 1000-1200 rpm at the alternator.  Full output requires more, though,
> generally something like 5000-7000 at the alternator.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
>

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2016 14:50:40 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Will a popped circuit breaker ground the hot wire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm adding some wiring to a circuit, and while testing the new Decora switch to see which way was up, I noticed there was conductivity between the hot lead and the grounded electrical box. Is this how it should be with the circuit breaker off? Googling this seemingly simple question gets me answers to all kinds of other questions :-\

I undid all the connectors back to the origin of my work, so it isn't anything new unless I pierced a wire in the wall with a sheetrock screw...

(There's also conductivity between the hot & neutral, which I expected given the ground-neutral bonding in the main panel)

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2016 21:20:18 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4996176155822045221==

----__JWM__J2cfe039f.3e465962S.6cb0563cM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

  I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the back of=
 a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for diesel containment.=
Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out the inside=
 - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the outside. O=
n the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the me=
tal is not that thick.Generally I would think a socket head plug would g=
o there to act as a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there=
 to form a reliable seal.Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could t=
ap for a plug and try it... I considered welding or JB Welding some larg=
e washers to provide enough meat to allow a socket plug to work..Any oth=
er appropriate "stoppers" come to mind? I was also considering just seal=
ing up the hole on the bottom and adding a drain on a vertical surface n=
ear the bottom.  MattColumbus, GA
----__JWM__J2cfe039f.3e465962S.6cb0563cM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i th=
e back of a pick up and&nbsp;I was considering&nbsp;refurbishing it for =
diesel containment.</div>
<div>Overall it is in decent&nbsp;condition, but I planned to clean out =
the inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the =
outside.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but =
the metal is not that thick.</div>
<div>Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act as=
 a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a reliab=
le seal.</div>
<div>Any ideas on how to best treat this? &nbsp;I could tap for a plug a=
nd try it...</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide en=
ough meat to allow a socket plug to work..</div>
<div>Any other appropriate "stoppers" come to mind?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom and a=
dding a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Matt</div>
<div>Columbus, GA</div></html>

----__JWM__J2cfe039f.3e465962S.6cb0563cM--

--===============4996176155822045221==
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--===============4996176155822045221==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 17 15:57:34 2016
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <76BBEE65-62DE-4285-961B-F25B8F606A5A@groupwbench.org>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2016 14:36:35 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Will a popped circuit breaker ground the hot wire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim - Is there anything in the circuit that might be creating the path 
to ground?  Maybe you are getting continuity through an incandescent 
light bulb.

I would test the switch out of the circuit.  There should never be 
continuity between either of the hot wire screws of the switch and the 
ground screw.

If you look closely at the switch, you will probably see the word "TOP" 
stamped on the metal frame of the switch.

Brian

On 4/17/2016 11:50 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I'm adding some wiring to a circuit, and while testing the new Decora switch to see which way was up, I noticed there was conductivity between the hot lead and the grounded electrical box. Is this how it should be with the circuit breaker off? Googling this seemingly simple question gets me answers to all kinds of other questions :-\
>
> I undid all the connectors back to the origin of my work, so it isn't anything new unless I pierced a wire in the wall with a sheetrock screw...
>
> (There's also conductivity between the hot & neutral, which I expected given the ground-neutral bonding in the main panel)
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
>
>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2016 17:59:46 -0400
References: <76BBEE65-62DE-4285-961B-F25B8F606A5A@groupwbench.org>
 <571401E3.8050800@earthlink.net>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Will a popped circuit breaker ground the hot wire?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============2216264890476278718==


--Apple-Mail=_2EF25025-D2DF-4928-B2F0-0841D1AD8DA4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=windows-1252


On Apr 17, 2016, at 5:36 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Jim - Is there anything in the circuit that might be creating the path =
to ground?  Maybe you are getting continuity through an incandescent =
light bulb.

Yea, just realized (when I reset the breaker to get the ultimate answer =
:-) ) that the oil burner is connected to the same circuit. It fired up =
so the circuit is clean. Sure cost me a whole bunch of hours though.=20

>=20
> If you look closely at the switch, you will probably see the word =
"TOP" stamped on the metal frame of the switch.

I looked, nothing there. It's a double switch that I'm mounting =
sideways, something maybe they didn't account for?=20

jim=

--Apple-Mail=_2EF25025-D2DF-4928-B2F0-0841D1AD8DA4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=windows-1252

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dwindows-1252"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: =
after-white-space;"><br><div><div>On Apr 17, 2016, at 5:36 PM, Brian =
Kemp &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bk13@earthlink.net">bk13@earthlink.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;">Jim - Is there anything in the =
circuit that might be creating the path to ground? &nbsp;Maybe you are =
getting continuity through an incandescent light bulb.</span><br =
style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;"></blockquote><div><br></div>Yea, =
just realized (when I reset the breaker to get the ultimate answer :-) ) =
that the oil burner is connected to the same circuit. It fired up so the =
circuit is clean. Sure cost me a whole bunch of hours =
though.&nbsp;</div><div><br><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><span =
style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; display: inline =
!important;">If you look closely at the switch, you will probably see =
the word "TOP" stamped on the metal frame of the =
switch.</span></blockquote></div><br><div>I looked, nothing there. It's =
a double switch that I'm mounting sideways, something maybe they didn't =
account for?&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>jim</div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_2EF25025-D2DF-4928-B2F0-0841D1AD8DA4--

--===============2216264890476278718==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============2216264890476278718==--

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <20160417.172018.10066.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2016 19:10:29 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============6696642294500313194==
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I use JB weld for a lot of stuff, but that's not one I would do. I'd 
weld something over the hole that's thick enough to take threads and 
call it good, assuming the tank is safe to weld on.


On 4/17/2016 2:20 PM, Matt wrote:
>  I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the back 
> of a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for diesel containment.
> Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out the 
> inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the 
> outside.
> On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the 
> metal is not that thick.
> Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act as a 
> drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a 
> reliable seal.
> Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could tap for a plug and try it...
> I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide 
> enough meat to allow a socket plug to work..
> Any other appropriate "stoppers" come to mind?
> I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom and 
> adding a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.
> Matt
> Columbus, GA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
>


--------------090808060307040602080406
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    I use JB weld for a lot of stuff, but that's not one I would do. 
    I'd weld something over the hole that's thick enough to take threads
    and call it good, assuming the tank is safe to weld on.  <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/17/2016 2:20 PM, Matt wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:20160417.172018.10066.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com"
      type="cite">
      <div> </div>
      <div> I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i
        the back of a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for
        diesel containment.</div>
      <div>Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out
        the inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint
        on the outside.</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been
        tapped, but the metal is not that thick.</div>
      <div>Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to
        act as a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to
        form a reliable seal.</div>
      <div>Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could tap for a plug
        and try it...</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to
        provide enough meat to allow a socket plug to work..</div>
      <div>Any other appropriate "stoppers" come to mind?</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom
        and adding a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>Matt</div>
      <div>Columbus, GA</div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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References: <20160417.172018.10066.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 14:19:36 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8982843488523371296==

--001a114dcb66c155ac0530c73dfe

You need a bung hole.  No, really that's what they are called!   A piece of
steel tubing that is thick enough to take threads and can be welded into
thinner sheet.  Make sure you get one of a materiel that matches your tank.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Currie/272/95070/10002/-1

On Sun, Apr 17, 2016 at 4:20 PM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

>
>  I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the back of a
> pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for diesel containment.
> Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out the inside -
> maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the outside.
>
> On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the
> metal is not that thick.
> Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act as a
> drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a reliable
> seal.
> Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could tap for a plug and try it...
>
> I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide enough
> meat to allow a socket plug to work..
> Any other appropriate "stoppers" come to mind?
>
> I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom and adding a
> drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.
>
>
> Matt
> Columbus, GA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--001a114dcb66c155ac0530c73dfe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">You need a bung hole.=C2=A0 No, really that&#39;s what the=
y are called!=C2=A0=C2=A0 A piece of steel tubing that is thick enough to t=
ake threads and can be welded into thinner sheet.=C2=A0 Make sure you get o=
ne of a materiel that matches your tank.<br><br><a href=3D"http://www.jegs.=
com/i/Currie/272/95070/10002/-1">http://www.jegs.com/i/Currie/272/95070/100=
02/-1</a><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
">On Sun, Apr 17, 2016 at 4:20 PM, Matt <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:mbarre@juno.com" target=3D"_blank">mbarre@juno.com</a>&gt;</span> wrot=
e:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the b=
ack of a pick up and=C2=A0I was considering=C2=A0refurbishing it for diesel=
 containment.</div>
<div>Overall it is in decent=C2=A0condition, but I planned to clean out the=
 inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the outsid=
e.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the=
 metal is not that thick.</div>
<div>Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act as a =
drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a reliable sea=
l.</div>
<div>Any ideas on how to best treat this?=C2=A0 I could tap for a plug and =
try it...</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide enoug=
h meat to allow a socket plug to work..</div>
<div>Any other appropriate &quot;stoppers&quot; come to mind?</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom and addi=
ng a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.</div><span class=3D"HOEnZ=
b"><font color=3D"#888888">
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Matt</div>
<div>Columbus, GA</div>
</font></span><br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail=
_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with style =
when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown=C2=
=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
</div>

--001a114dcb66c155ac0530c73dfe--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 18 16:57:54 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 19:47:57 GMT
To: jdinnis@gmail.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8321680437204560612==

----__JWM__J19b6f927.444c411aS.2fb36e09M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

Winner winner - chicken dinner! I knew the shop talk list would come thr=
ough. Thanks John!  =


---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 14:19:36 -0500


You need a bung hole.  No, really that's what they are called!   A piece=
 of steel tubing that is thick enough to take threads and can be welded =
into thinner sheet.  Make sure you get one of a materiel that matches yo=
ur tank.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Currie/272/95070/10002/-1
On Sun, Apr 17, 2016 at 4:20 PM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
  I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the back of=
 a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for diesel containment.=
Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out the inside=
 - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the outside. O=
n the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the me=
tal is not that thick.Generally I would think a socket head plug would g=
o there to act as a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there=
 to form a reliable seal.Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could t=
ap for a plug and try it... I considered welding or JB Welding some larg=
e washers to provide enough meat to allow a socket plug to work..Any oth=
er appropriate "stoppers" come to mind? I was also considering just seal=
ing up the hole on the bottom and adding a drain on a vertical surface n=
ear the bottom.  MattColumbus, GA
_______________________________________________
 =

 Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.96
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdi=
nnis@gmail.com
 =


-- =

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
----__JWM__J19b6f927.444c411aS.2fb36e09M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>Winner winner - chicken dinner!</div>
<div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size: 10pt;">&nbsp;</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div>I knew the shop talk list would come through.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Thanks John!</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: John Innis =
&lt;jdinnis@gmail.com&gt;<br>To: Matt &lt;mbarre@juno.com&gt;<br>Cc: sho=
p-talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L sh=
aped fuel tank problem<br>Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 14:19:36 -0500<br><br><=
/p>
<div dir=3D"ltr">You need a bung hole.&nbsp; No, really that's what they=
 are called!&nbsp;&nbsp; A piece of steel tubing that is thick enough to=
 take threads and can be welded into thinner sheet.&nbsp; Make sure you =
get one of a materiel that matches your tank.<br><br><a href=3D"http://w=
ww.jegs.com/i/Currie/272/95070/10002/-1">http://www.jegs.com/i/Currie/27=
2/95070/10002/-1</a></div>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Apr 17, 2016 at 4:20 PM, Matt <span d=
ir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mbarre@juno.com" target=3D"_blank">mbar=
re@juno.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 .8ex; border-le=
ft: 1px #ccc solid; padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i th=
e back of a pick up and&nbsp;I was considering&nbsp;refurbishing it for =
diesel containment.</div>
<div>Overall it is in decent&nbsp;condition, but I planned to clean out =
the inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the =
outside.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but =
the metal is not that thick.</div>
<div>Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act as=
 a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a reliab=
le seal.</div>
<div>Any ideas on how to best treat this?&nbsp; I could tap for a plug a=
nd try it...</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide en=
ough meat to allow a socket plug to work..</div>
<div>Any other appropriate "stoppers" come to mind?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom and a=
dding a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Matt</div>
<div>Columbus, GA</div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br> <br> <a href=3D"=
mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br> Donate=
: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br> Suggested annual dona=
tion&nbsp; $12.96<br> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" t=
arget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br> =
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"=
noreferrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com"=
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ons/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br> </blockquote>
</div>
<br><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br>
<div class=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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ffend people with style when you&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D<br>=3D can offend with =
substance --- Sam Brown&nbsp; =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 06:40:50 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5117071905447769689==

--089e013cbd68f689290530d4f25d

My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.  What's the fix for this?

I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 that
a guy could poke through little holes in the liner.

What's out there to buy?  I will cut bigger holes if I have to.  It's not a
concours car.

-- 
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

--089e013cbd68f689290530d4f25d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.=C2=A0 What&#=
39;s the fix for this?<div><br></div><div>I&#39;d love to hear that there i=
s an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 that a guy could poke through lit=
tle holes in the liner.</div><div><br></div><div>What&#39;s out there to bu=
y?=C2=A0 I will cut bigger holes if I have to.=C2=A0 It&#39;s not a concour=
s car.<br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail_signature=
"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,=
0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetic=
a,sans-serif;font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)=
">Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA</span><br></div><div><span=
 style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida gr=
ande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">197=
3 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW &quot;uncle jack&quot;, Sapphire Blue</span><br s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida gran=
de&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span=
 style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida gr=
ande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">200=
4 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch</span><br style=
=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#=
39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande=
&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Lo=
tus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-fami=
ly:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif=
;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-fa=
mily:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-ser=
if;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal =
Blue Pearl</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,l=
ucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:r=
gb(239,239,239)"><a href=3D"http://www.mnautox.com/" style=3D"color:rgb(0,2=
4,57);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helve=
tica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)" target=3D"_blank">http:/=
/www.mnautox.com</a><br></div></div></div></div></div>
</div></div>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5117071905447769689==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 06:55:42 2016
Return-Path: <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 12:08:44 GMT
To: pethier7@gmail.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0210360578254894266==

----__JWM__J386e23f4.2a5de399S.27dc7a63M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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Phil,I will be happy but surprised if anyone reveals a quick and cheap f=
ix.I have battled this several times and have come to the conclusion tha=
t there is no adequate substitute for pulling out the headliner and reco=
vering.When the foam backing on the original material fails, it gets dus=
ty and simply defies any attempt to re glue. Shop around, I eventually f=
ound a shop (albiet a few years ago) that did a great job for $75.Depend=
ing on the car, the shell may not be that hard to remove yourself and yo=
u could either buy the fabric and recover yourself or take it to the int=
erior shop and have them do it and you could reinstall. Good Luck!   =


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 06:40:50 -0500


My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.  What's the fix for this? =
I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 t=
hat a guy could poke through little holes in the liner. What's out there=
 to buy?  I will cut bigger holes if I have to.  It's not a concours car=
. -- =

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA1973 Triumph Stag LE22439U=
BW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only aut=
omatic of the bunch2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl2005 Subaru Legac=
y GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearlhttp://www.mnautox.com
----__JWM__J386e23f4.2a5de399S.27dc7a63M
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<html><div>Phil,</div>
<div>I will be happy but surprised if anyone reveals a quick and cheap f=
ix.</div>
<div>I have battled this several times and have come to the conclusion t=
hat there is no adequate substitute for pulling out the headliner and re=
covering.</div>
<div>When the foam backing on the original material fails, it gets dusty=
 and simply defies any attempt to re glue.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Shop around, I eventually found a shop (albiet a few years ago) tha=
t did a great job for $75.</div>
<div>Depending on the car, the shell may not be that hard to remove your=
self and you could either buy the fabric and recover yourself or take it=
 to the interior shop and have them do it and you could reinstall.</div>=

<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Good Luck!</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Philip Ethi=
er &lt;pethier7@gmail.com&gt;<br>To: Shop-Talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.=
net&gt;<br>Subject: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?<br>Date: Tue, 19 =
Apr 2016 06:40:50 -0500<br><br></p>
<div dir=3D"ltr">My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.&nbsp; Wha=
t's the fix for this?
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-W=
D40 that a guy could poke through little holes in the liner.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>What's out there to buy?&nbsp; I will cut bigger holes if I have to=
.&nbsp; It's not a concours car.<br clear=3D"all">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
-- <br>
<div class=3D"gmail_signature">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'=
lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px=
; background-color: #efefef;">Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota=
 USA</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'=
lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;">1=
973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue</span><br style=3D=
"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',aria=
l,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;"><span style=3D"color=
: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helv=
etica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;">2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport R=
ed, the only automatic of the bunch</span><br style=3D"color: #000000; f=
ont-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif; background-color: #efefef;"><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-fa=
mily: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; =
background-color: #efefef;">2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl</span><=
br style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida g=
rande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;"><span sty=
le=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande'=
,arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;">2005 Subaru Leg=
acy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl</span><br style=3D"color: #000000; font=
-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-seri=
f; background-color: #efefef;"><a style=3D"color: #001839; font-family: =
verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; backgr=
ound-color: #efefef;" href=3D"http://www.mnautox.com/" target=3D"_blank"=
>http://www.mnautox.com</a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div></html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0210360578254894266==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 08:25:45 2016
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References: <CAE16_w29Stc3_k7vm4HgbBp9RvNNd5=++rpYva4MtRs9BLrHAw@mail.gmail.com>
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 07:58:53 -0500
To: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============0296432415335350315==
 boundary=Apple-Mail-F3204399-5C71-4BEB-91C9-B3D76B97B71C
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-F3204399-5C71-4BEB-91C9-B3D76B97B71C
	charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What is failing is the foam above the fabric. Remove the headliner, scrape o=
ff the foam & replace with new fabric. The fabric is cheap, about $75. If th=
at is too much trouble, pull the fabric out & scrape off the foam.

Race,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Apr 19, 2016, at 6:40 AM, Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com> wrote:

My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.  What's the fix for this?

I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 that a=
 guy could poke through little holes in the liner.

What's out there to buy?  I will cut bigger holes if I have to.  It's not a c=
oncours car.

--=20
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-F3204399-5C71-4BEB-91C9-B3D76B97B71C
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>What is failing is the foam above the f=
abric. Remove the headliner, scrape off the foam &amp; replace with new fabr=
ic. The fabric is cheap, about $75. If that is too much trouble, pull the fa=
bric out &amp; scrape off the foam.</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br>=
</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Race,</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignatur=
e">Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Hum=
anity</div><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Apr 19, 2016, at 6:40 AM, Philip=
 Ethier &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pethier7@gmail.com">pethier7@gmail.com</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr">My MOL has a Saturn with a fallin=
g headliner.&nbsp; What's the fix for this?<div><br></div><div>I'd love to h=
ear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 that a guy could p=
oke through little holes in the liner.</div><div><br></div><div>What's out t=
here to buy?&nbsp; I will cut bigger holes if I have to.&nbsp; It's not a co=
ncours car.<br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail_signa=
ture"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0=
,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans=
-serif;font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">Phil E=
thier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA</span><br></div><div><span style=3D=
"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,he=
lvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">1973 Triumph Stag LE22=
439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-=
family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;back=
ground-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:v=
erdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-c=
olor:rgb(239,239,239)">2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of t=
he bunch</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,luci=
da,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,2=
39)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'luci=
da grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">200=
5 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-f=
amily:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;backg=
round-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:ve=
rdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-co=
lor:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl</span>=
<br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida gran=
de',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><a href=3D=
"http://www.mnautox.com/" style=3D"color:rgb(0,24,57);font-family:verdana,ge=
neva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(=
239,239,239)" target=3D"_blank">http://www.mnautox.com</a><br></div></div></=
div></div></div>
</div></div>
</div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><=
span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@=
autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested ann=
ual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><=
span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/sh=
op-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-ta=
lk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0296432415335350315==--

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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 09:43:23 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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At 07:40 AM 4/19/2016, Philip Ethier wrote:

 >My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.=C2  What's the fix for this=
?

Unfortunately, I don't think there is a fix in a 
can.  Usually the head liners are a
piece of cloth with a foam rubber backing which is glued to a fiberglass sh=
ell.

Over the years, heat and cool cycles, and wind 
beating on it (windows rolled down)
the foam rubber drys out and crumbles.

You can try getting any spray glue and seeing if 
that won't hold it up for a while,
but the real fix is to take it to a shop and have 
them remove the headliner, clean
the old cloth off the shell, and install new 
material.  I don't have any idea what
it costs today.  I had a Voyager van done years 
ago for about $125 dollars.  But
like I say that was well over 10 yrs ago.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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<html>
<body>
<font size=3D3>At 07:40 AM 4/19/2016, Philip Ethier wrote:<br><br>
&gt;My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.=C2&nbsp; What's the fix
for this?<br><br>
Unfortunately, I don't think there is a fix in a can.&nbsp; Usually the
head liners are a <br>
piece of cloth with a foam rubber backing which is glued to a fiberglass
shell.<br><br>
Over the years, heat and cool cycles, and wind beating on it (windows
rolled down)<br>
the foam rubber drys out and crumbles. <br><br>
You can try getting any spray glue and seeing if that won't hold it up
for a while,<br>
but the real fix is to take it to a shop and have them remove the
headliner, clean<br>
the old cloth off the shell, and install new material.&nbsp; I don't have
any idea what<br>
it costs today.&nbsp; I had a Voyager van done years ago for about $125
dollars.&nbsp; But<br>
like I say that was well over 10 yrs ago.<br><br>
John<br><br>
</font><br />
<table style=3D"border-top: 1px solid #aaabb6;">
	<tr>
        <td style=3D"width: 55px; padding-top: 13px;"><a href=3D"https://ww=
w.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Ds=
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src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/2016/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-=
orange-v1.png" /></a></td>
		<td style=3D"width: 470px; padding-top: 15px; color: #41424e; font-size: =
13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-=
free. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_sou=
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nk" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"color: #4453ea;">www.avast.com</a>
		</td>
	</tr>
</table></body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/www/morgan" EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>
www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

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 <9C10B44D-CE10-40BE-9D2B-E4410C2186C0@icloud.com>
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 09:57:26 -0500
To: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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If this is too much trouble, try thumb tacks. Make a design with 100 or so!

Peace,
Pat

On Apr 19, 2016, at 7:58 AM, Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com> wrote:

What is failing is the foam above the fabric. Remove the headliner, scrape o=
ff the foam & replace with new fabric. The fabric is cheap, about $75. If th=
at is too much trouble, pull the fabric out & scrape off the foam.

Race,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Apr 19, 2016, at 6:40 AM, Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com> wrote:

My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.  What's the fix for this?

I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 that a=
 guy could poke through little holes in the liner.

What's out there to buy?  I will cut bigger holes if I have to.  It's not a c=
oncours car.

--=20
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
as@icloud.com

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>If this is too much trouble, try thumb=
 tacks. Make a design with 100 or so!</div><div><br></div><div>Peace,</div><=
div>Pat</div><div><br>On Apr 19, 2016, at 7:58 AM, Pat Horne &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:patintexas@icloud.com">patintexas@icloud.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></=
div><div><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Du=
tf-8"><div>What is failing is the foam above the fabric. Remove the headline=
r, scrape off the foam &amp; replace with new fabric. The fabric is cheap, a=
bout $75. If that is too much trouble, pull the fabric out &amp; scrape off t=
he foam.</div><div><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Race,</div><div i=
d=3D"AppleMailSignature">Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Caldwell C=
ounty Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Apr 19, 201=
6, at 6:40 AM, Philip Ethier &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pethier7@gmail.com">pethi=
er7@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr">My MOL has a=
 Saturn with a falling headliner.&nbsp; What's the fix for this?<div><br></d=
iv><div>I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD=
40 that a guy could poke through little holes in the liner.</div><div><br></=
div><div>What's out there to buy?&nbsp; I will cut bigger holes if I have to=
.&nbsp; It's not a concours car.<br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><span=
 style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande'=
,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rg=
b(239,239,239)">Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA</span><br></d=
iv><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'l=
ucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">=
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue</span><br style=3D"=
color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,hel=
vetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rg=
b(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,s=
ans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, t=
he only automatic of the bunch</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-fami=
ly:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;backgrou=
nd-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verda=
na,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color=
:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl</span><br style=3D"c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helv=
etica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb=
(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sa=
ns-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, R=
egal Blue Pearl</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,gene=
va,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(23=
9,239,239)"><a href=3D"http://www.mnautox.com/" style=3D"color:rgb(0,24,57);=
font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif=
;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)" target=3D"_blank">http://www.mnautox.com=
</a><br></div></div></div></div></div>
</div></div>
</div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><=
span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@=
autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested ann=
ual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a hr=
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><=
span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/sh=
op-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-ta=
lk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></div><div><sp=
an>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span><b=
r><span><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net=
</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">htt=
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exas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@=
icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>=

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 11:45:16 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 08:42:25 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have battled this several times and have come to the conclusion that
> there is no adequate substitute for pulling out the headliner and
> recovering.

Yeah, either the glue fails or the backing deteriorates with the glue. 
In either case, you've got little crumbs of stuff rattling around in there.

The answer depends on the acceptable level of ghetto.

The only way you're going to get it to look 'right', if that matters, is 
to remove it from the car and redo the whole thing.  That means removing 
all the fabric, cleaning off all the crumbly stuff, you may need new 
fabric, etc.

Neighbor had one done locally (SF Peninsula) for I think $125 a few 
months back.

Bear in mind that body style (wagons/hatchbacks easy, many sedans/coupes 
will require removing the rear window) and features (how is it 
finished/retained around the sunroof opening, how many roof-mounted 
lights/vents/video displays/etc. are there) will drive the R&R difficulty.

If what you're looking for is 'keep this thing off my hair until I can 
scrap the car' I've seen a car where the owner slit the headliner across 
the car and cleaned out enough cruft to get some glue up there that 
seemed to hold well enough and I've seen one car where the owner went at 
it with some heavy fishing line and one of those long curved 
turkey-sewing needles.  Both were functional, neither was an aesthetic 
success.

Nothing you can just push in from the bottom will hold, it'll just pull 
out of the fiber backing.  Maybe one of those big plastic threaded 
drywall-screw inserts if you cut off the projecting tip and start a 
hole...but I'd guess trying to put a screw in it will strip it out of 
the backing in a hurry.

John.

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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 16:34:36 +0000
From: <jibrooks@live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160419094244.04cc1ca0@cox.net>
 FILETIME=[5C92B3A0:01D19A59]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2946464304802315306==
	boundary="_8999e727-70a8-4190-af27-bcbed17ffea1_"

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Back when I had a Saab 9000 with the same issue I put upholstery twist pins=
 (hillman pn 122264) into the cardboard backer material. This will only wor=
k if the basket is soft like cardboard.


It is not beautiful=2C  but it is functional.


Jack






On Tue=2C Apr 19=2C 2016 at 8:05 AM -0700=2C "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@co=
x.net> wrote:





At 07:40 AM 4/19/2016=2C Philip Ethier wrote:

 >My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.=C3=82  What's the fix for t=
his?

Unfortunately=2C I don't think there is a fix in a
can.  Usually the head liners are a
piece of cloth with a foam rubber backing which is glued to a fiberglass sh=
ell.

Over the years=2C heat and cool cycles=2C and wind
beating on it (windows rolled down)
the foam rubber drys out and crumbles.

You can try getting any spray glue and seeing if
that won't hold it up for a while=2C
but the real fix is to take it to a shop and have
them remove the headliner=2C clean
the old cloth off the shell=2C and install new
material.  I don't have any idea what
it costs today.  I had a Voyager van done years
ago for about $125 dollars.  But
like I say that was well over 10 yrs ago.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach=2C Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum=2C "from many=2C one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing=2C  thinking=2C  and  acting  for
                   oneself=3B freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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<p dir=3D"auto">Back when I had a Saab 9000 with the same issue I put uphol=
stery twist pins (hillman pn 122264) into the cardboard backer material. Th=
is will only work if the basket is soft like cardboard.
</p>
<p dir=3D"auto">It is not beautiful=2C&nbsp=3B but it is functional. </p>
<p dir=3D"auto">Jack<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue=2C Apr 19=2C 2016 at 8:05 AM -0700=2C &qu=
ot=3BJohn T. Blair&quot=3B <span dir=3D"ltr">
&lt=3B<a href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">jblair1948@co=
x.net</a>&gt=3B</span> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"3">At 07:40 AM 4/19/2016=2C Philip Ethier wrote:<br>
<br>
&gt=3BMy MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.=C3=82&nbsp=3B What's th=
e fix for this?<br>
<br>
Unfortunately=2C I don't think there is a fix in a can.&nbsp=3B Usually the=
 head liners are a
<br>
piece of cloth with a foam rubber backing which is glued to a fiberglass sh=
ell.<br>
<br>
Over the years=2C heat and cool cycles=2C and wind beating on it (windows r=
olled down)<br>
the foam rubber drys out and crumbles. <br>
<br>
You can try getting any spray glue and seeing if that won't hold it up for =
a while=2C<br>
but the real fix is to take it to a shop and have them remove the headliner=
=2C clean<br>
the old cloth off the shell=2C and install new material.&nbsp=3B I don't ha=
ve any idea what<br>
it costs today.&nbsp=3B I had a Voyager van done years ago for about $125 d=
ollars.&nbsp=3B But<br>
like I say that was well over 10 yrs ago.<br>
<br>
John<br>
<br>
</font><br>
<table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #aaabb6">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style=3D"width:55px=3B padding-top:13px"><a href=3D"https://www.avast.c=
om/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp=3Butm_source=3Dlink&amp=3Butm_campaign=
=3Dsig-email&amp=3Butm_content=3Demailclient&amp=3Butm_term=3Dicon" target=
=3D"_blank"><img src=3D"https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/2016/icons/icon-env=
elope-tick-round-orange-v1.png"></a></td>
<td style=3D"width:470px=3B padding-top:15px=3B color:#41424e=3B font-size:=
13px=3B font-family:Arial=2CHelvetica=2Csans-serif=3B line-height:18px">
Virus-free. <a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&a=
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mailclient&amp=3Butm_term=3Dlink" target=3D"_blank" style=3D"color:#4453ea"=
>
www.avast.com</a> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp=3B WA4OHZ&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B email:&nb=
sp=3B jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach=2C Va&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=
=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B=
&nbsp=3B Phone:&nbsp=3B (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=
=3B 48 TR1800&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B 48 #4 Midget&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B =
65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp=3B&nbsp=
=3B&nbsp=3B 77 Spitfire&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=
=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B=
&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B 65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/www/mor=
gan">www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp=3B <a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/">www.bricklin.or=
g</a> </div>
<br>
<div>If you can read this&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&n=
bsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B - Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div>From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B e pluribus Unum=2C &quot=3Bfrom many=
=2C one.&quot=3B</div>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B Liberty - the&nbsp=3B power&nbsp=3B o=
f&nbsp=3B choosing=2C&nbsp=3B thinking=2C&nbsp=3B and&nbsp=3B acting&nbsp=
=3B for&nbsp=3B </div>
<div>&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=
=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B&nbsp=3B oneself=
=3B freedom&nbsp=3B from&nbsp=3B control&nbsp=3B or&nbsp=3B restriction&nbs=
p=3B </div>
<br>
<br>
</div>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.11.1461002403.1090.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 09:38:52 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.7.2
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem (Dave Cavanaugh)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


I'd recommend getting a weld on threaded fitting instead of hoping a 
washer would be thick enough.  Like: 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-on-tank-fittings/=121uxnj


Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com


On 4/18/2016 11:00 AM, shop-talk-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Send Shop-talk mailing list submissions to
> 	shop-talk@autox.team.net
>
>
>
>    I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the back of a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for diesel containment.Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out the inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the outside. On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the metal is not that thick.Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act as a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a reliable seal.Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could tap for a plug and try it... I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide enough meat to allow a socket plug to work..Any other appropriate "stoppers" come to mind? I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom and adding a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.  MattColumbus, GA
> -------------- next part --------------
>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 14:31:57 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 10:53:59 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
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On 4/19/2016 7:57 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
> If this is too much trouble, try thumb tacks. Make a design with 100 or so!

"Daddy, why is it raining thumbtacks!  Ouch!"

John.



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Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 14:28:29 -0400
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
To: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4043752602374727844==

--001a113fc420ce59260530daa412

Phil,
The headliner in my '96 Saturn SL2 gave up the ghost a couple of years
ago.  T pins worked fine for a year or so, but as the cloth material
deteriorated the effectiveness of the pins diminished.  After reviewing a
couple of YouTube videos I decided that replacing it is very doable for
home mechanics.  It is.

Remove at the bits which screw into the headliner, fold the pax seat down
as flat as possible and simply pull it out.  It is important to remove
*all* the original foam rubber and adhesive.  Wire brush and soap and water
work well.  I used 3M spray adhesive and worked the liner material on in 2'
sections (more manageable than doing the whole thing at once).  Cut the
required openings and install.  Installation is very fiddly, as you'll
probably have to bend the liner to go in thru pax rear door.  If the liner
cracks, no big deal, you won't notice with the finished product.

The project took me a couple of hours one evening to extricate and clean
the liner.  I let it dry overnight and glued the new liner material in the
AM.  I bought foam-backed headliner material from a local craft shop.
Don't try to use unbacked material, as the adhesive will soak thru and
discolor the finished product.

Easily do-able with your skills.

jim
I bought some headliner material from a local fabric shop (~$25)

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 7:40 AM, Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com> wrote:

> My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.  What's the fix for this?
>
> I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40
> that a guy could poke through little holes in the liner.
>
> What's out there to buy?  I will cut bigger holes if I have to.  It's not
> a concours car.
>
> --
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jhassall@gmail.com
>
>
>

--001a113fc420ce59260530daa412
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Phil,<div>The headliner in my &#39;96 Saturn SL2 gave up t=
he ghost a couple of years ago.=C2=A0 T pins worked fine for a year or so, =
but as the cloth material deteriorated the effectiveness of the pins dimini=
shed.=C2=A0 After reviewing a couple of YouTube videos I decided that repla=
cing it is very doable for home mechanics.=C2=A0 It is. =C2=A0</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Remove at the bits which screw into the headliner, fold the pa=
x seat down as flat as possible and simply pull it out.=C2=A0 It is importa=
nt to remove *all* the original foam rubber and adhesive.=C2=A0 Wire brush =
and soap and water work well.=C2=A0 I used 3M spray adhesive and worked the=
 liner material on in 2&#39; sections (more manageable than doing the whole=
 thing at once).=C2=A0 Cut the required openings and install.=C2=A0 Install=
ation is very fiddly, as you&#39;ll probably have to bend the liner to go i=
n thru pax rear door.=C2=A0 If the liner cracks, no big deal, you won&#39;t=
 notice with the finished product. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>The proj=
ect took me a couple of hours one evening to extricate and clean the liner.=
=C2=A0 I let it dry overnight and glued the new liner material in the AM.=
=C2=A0 I bought foam-backed headliner material from a local craft shop.=C2=
=A0 Don&#39;t try to use unbacked material, as the adhesive will soak thru =
and discolor the finished product. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Easily d=
o-able with your skills.</div><div><br></div><div>jim</div><div>I bought so=
me headliner material from a local fabric shop (~$25)</div></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 7:4=
0 AM, Philip Ethier <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pethier7@gmail.=
com" target=3D"_blank">pethier7@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc s=
olid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">My MOL has a Saturn with a falling =
headliner.=C2=A0 What&#39;s the fix for this?<div><br></div><div>I&#39;d lo=
ve to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 that a guy=
 could poke through little holes in the liner.</div><div><br></div><div>Wha=
t&#39;s out there to buy?=C2=A0 I will cut bigger holes if I have to.=C2=A0=
 It&#39;s not a concours car.<span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"=
><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,l=
ucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12.80000=
01907349px;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">Phil Ethier West Side Saint P=
aul Minnesota USA</span><br></div><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font=
-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-=
serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW &quot=
;uncle jack&quot;, Sapphire Blue</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-f=
amily:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-se=
rif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font=
-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-=
serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the =
only automatic of the bunch</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family=
:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;b=
ackground-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-fami=
ly:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif=
;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl</s=
pan><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lu=
cida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,23=
9)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;=
lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,=
239)">2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl</span><br style=3D"co=
lor:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,ar=
ial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><a href=3D"http=
://www.mnautox.com/" style=3D"color:rgb(0,24,57);font-family:verdana,geneva=
,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color=
:rgb(239,239,239)" target=3D"_blank">http://www.mnautox.com</a><br></div></=
div></div></div></div>
</font></span></div></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/jhassall@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jhassall@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 16:46:46 2016
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References: <20160419.080844.9073.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>
 <571651E1.6050002@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 14:39:54 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 11:42 AM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:
> maybe one of those big plastic threaded drywall-screw inserts if you cut off
> the projecting tip and start a hole...

I had visions of the roof of the car looking like a porcupine...then I
saw the word "insert"...

-- Jeff
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 17:05:27 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 11:57:36 -0700
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> If what you're looking for is 'keep this thing off my hair 
> until I can 
> scrap the car' I've seen a car where the owner slit the 
> headliner across 
> the car and cleaned out enough cruft to get some glue up there that 
> seemed to hold well enough and I've seen one car where the 
> owner went at 
> it with some heavy fishing line and one of those long curved 
> turkey-sewing needles.  Both were functional, neither was an 
> aesthetic success.

Or in the same category, just pull out all the fabric and crumbled foam; and leave the bare shell behind.  It's not like folks spend
a lot of time looking up at the headliner.

After all, it's transportation, not a work of art.

Randall

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 17:23:59 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160419094244.04cc1ca0@cox.net>
 <BAY402-EAS18894140D542993784D3B2FA86C0@phx.gbl>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 12:25:23 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
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On 4/19/2016 9:34 AM, jibrooks@live.com wrote:
> Back when I had a Saab 9000 with the same issue I put upholstery twist
> pins (hillman pn 122264) into the cardboard backer material. This will
> only work if the basket is soft like cardboard.

Back when I had a '92 Saab 9000 Turbo with the same issue (as well as 
dashpad cracks around the sun sensor) I stumbled onto a later CSE in the 
junkyard on half-price day with a perfect headliner and a perfect dashpad.

The headliner and upper dash pad went home with me that day.

As did the entire moonroof pan assembly, once I realized it bolted in 
place and wasn't welded in like BMWs etc.   Saab had started 
decontenting the US-market cars in the early '90s as the dollar started 
crushing European currencies (Saab 9000T $37K, Audi 200TQ Avant $48K, 
BMW M5 $56K) and so by '92 the 9000s were getting steel sunroofs, but 
they put back the glass in the higher-spec models later.

So a weekend later I had a '92 9000 Turbo with a fresh dash, a fresh 
headliner, and a glass moonroof.

Moral to the story: if you're a passable wrench, and you have 
self-service junkyards nearby, and you can't find someone to do a 
recover locally at a decent price, depending on the age of the vehicle 
replacement may be an option too.

John.
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 15:44:03 -0500
References: <20160419.080844.9073.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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Your flaps should sell a "Help!" Brand headliner tack. It's basically a thum=
btack with a very large head.  Ugly but they work and are cheap.=20

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 07:08, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
>=20
> Phil,
> I will be happy but surprised if anyone reveals a quick and cheap fix.
> I have battled this several times and have come to the conclusion that the=
re is no adequate substitute for pulling out the headliner and recovering.
> When the foam backing on the original material fails, it gets dusty and si=
mply defies any attempt to re glue.
> =20
> Shop around, I eventually found a shop (albiet a few years ago) that did a=
 great job for $75.
> Depending on the car, the shell may not be that hard to remove yourself an=
d you could either buy the fabric and recover yourself or take it to the int=
erior shop and have them do it and you could reinstall.
> =20
> Good Luck!
> =20
> =20
> =20
>=20
>=20
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
> To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
> Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 06:40:50 -0500
>=20
> My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.  What's the fix for this?
> =20
> I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 tha=
t a guy could poke through little holes in the liner.
> =20
> What's out there to buy?  I will cut bigger holes if I have to.  It's not a=
 concours car.
> =20
> --=20
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
> http://www.mnautox.com
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmsche=
idt@gmail.com
>=20

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	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div></div><div>Your flaps should sell a "H=
elp!" Brand headliner tack. It's basically a thumbtack with a very large hea=
d. &nbsp;Ugly but they work and are cheap.&nbsp;</div><div><br>On Apr 19, 20=
16, at 07:08, Matt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mbarre@juno.com">mbarre@juno.com</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div>Phil,</div>
<div>I will be happy but surprised if anyone reveals a quick and cheap fix.<=
/div>
<div>I have battled this several times and have come to the conclusion that t=
here is no adequate substitute for pulling out the headliner and recovering.=
</div>
<div>When the foam backing on the original material fails, it gets dusty and=
 simply defies any attempt to re glue.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Shop around, I eventually found a shop (albiet a few years ago) that di=
d a great job for $75.</div>
<div>Depending on the car, the shell may not be that hard to remove yourself=
 and you could either buy the fabric and recover yourself or take it to the i=
nterior shop and have them do it and you could reinstall.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Good Luck!</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Philip Ethier &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:pethier7@gmail.com">pethier7@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br>To: S=
hop-Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.tea=
m.net</a>&gt;<br>Subject: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?<br>Date: Tue, 1=
9 Apr 2016 06:40:50 -0500<br><br><p></p>
<div dir=3D"ltr">My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.&nbsp; What's t=
he fix for this?
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I'd love to hear that there is an adhesive with a little tube ala-WD40 t=
hat a guy could poke through little holes in the liner.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>What's out there to buy?&nbsp; I will cut bigger holes if I have to.&nb=
sp; It's not a concours car.<br clear=3D"all">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
-- <br>
<div class=3D"gmail_signature">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'luci=
da grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; backgr=
ound-color: #efefef;">Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA</span><=
/div>
<div><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'luci=
da grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;">1973 Triu=
mph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue</span><br style=3D"color: #0=
00000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sa=
ns-serif; background-color: #efefef;"><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-fa=
mily: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; back=
ground-color: #efefef;">2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of t=
he bunch</span><br style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,luci=
da,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;"><=
span style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida gra=
nde',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;">2005 Lotus Elis=
e, Bordeaux Red Pearl</span><br style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdan=
a,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color=
: #efefef;"><span style=3D"color: #000000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucid=
a,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; background-color: #efefef;">20=
05 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl</span><br style=3D"color: #000=
000; font-family: verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans=
-serif; background-color: #efefef;"><a style=3D"color: #001839; font-family:=
 verdana,geneva,lucida,'lucida grande',arial,helvetica,sans-serif; backgroun=
d-color: #efefef;" href=3D"http://www.mnautox.com/" target=3D"_blank">http:/=
/www.mnautox.com</a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div></div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>______________=
_________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D=
"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><sp=
an>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/d=
onate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span>=
<br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.n=
et/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums=
">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt@gmail.com">htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt@gmail.com</a></span><=
br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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To: <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 17:54:19 -0700
References: <mailman.11.1461002403.1090.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 <57165F1C.7050204@threeboysfarm.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem (Dave Cavanaugh)
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Don't you just love McMaster-Carr? It is my ultimate go to supplier.  They =
have incredible inventory of top-quality supplies and ship same day.  What =
more could one ask?

best,

des (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Sent: =E2=80=8E4/=E2=80=8E19/=E2=80=8E2016 12:06 PM
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem (Dave Cavanaugh)


I'd recommend getting a weld on threaded fitting instead of hoping a=20
washer would be thick enough.  Like:=20
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-on-tank-fittings/=3D121uxnj


Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com


On 4/18/2016 11:00 AM, shop-talk-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Send Shop-talk mailing list submissions to
> 	shop-talk@autox.team.net
>
>
>
>    I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that goes i the back of=
 a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for diesel containment.Ove=
rall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean out the inside - may=
be some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the outside. On the bot=
tom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but the metal is not t=
hat thick.Generally I would think a socket head plug would go there to act =
as a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel there to form a reliabl=
e seal.Any ideas on how to best treat this?  I could tap for a plug and try=
 it... I considered welding or JB Welding some large washers to provide eno=
ugh meat to allow a socket plug to work..Any other appropriate "stoppers" c=
ome to mind? I was also considering just sealing up the hole on the bottom =
and adding a drain on a vertical surface near the bottom.  MattColumbus, GA
> -------------- next part --------------
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
rd@pacbell.net


--_F2F017F9-29C6-4DC8-A39F-86B5491E9654_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">Don't you just love McMaster-Carr? It is my ultimate go t=
o supplier.&nbsp; They have incredible inventory of top-quality supplies an=
d ship same day.&nbsp; What more could one ask?<br><br>best,<br><br>des (mo=
bile)</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,s=
ans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style=3D=
"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:markm=
iller@threeboysfarm.com">Mark Miller</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><=
span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E4=
/=E2=80=8E19/=E2=80=8E2016 12:06 PM</span><br><span style=3D"font-family: C=
alibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span st=
yle=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto=
:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span sty=
le=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;"=
>Subject: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size:=
 11pt;">Re: [Shop-talk] L shaped fuel tank problem (Dave Cavanaugh)</span><=
br><br></div><br>I'd recommend getting a weld on threaded fitting instead o=
f hoping a <br>washer would be thick enough.&nbsp; Like: <br>http://www.mcm=
aster.com/#weld-on-tank-fittings/=3D121uxnj<br><br><br>Regards,<br><br>Mark=
 Miller<br>markmiller@threeboysfarm.com<br><br><br>On 4/18/2016 11:00 AM, s=
hop-talk-request@autox.team.net wrote:<br>&gt; Send Shop-talk mailing list =
submissions to<br>&gt; 	shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br=
>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have an old steel L tank out behind the shop that=
 goes i the back of a pick up and I was considering refurbishing it for die=
sel containment.Overall it is in decent condition, but I planned to clean o=
ut the inside - maybe some acid treatment and a coat of fresh paint on the =
outside. On the bottom is a half inch hole and it may have been tapped, but=
 the metal is not that thick.Generally I would think a socket head plug wou=
ld go there to act as a drain, but I am not sure there is enough steel ther=
e to form a reliable seal.Any ideas on how to best treat this?&nbsp; I coul=
d tap for a plug and try it... I considered welding or JB Welding some larg=
e washers to provide enough meat to allow a socket plug to work..Any other =
appropriate "stoppers" come to mind? I was also considering just sealing up=
 the hole on the bottom and adding a drain on a vertical surface near the b=
ottom.&nbsp; MattColumbus, GA<br>&gt; -------------- next part ------------=
--<br>&gt;<br><br>_______________________________________________<br><br>Sh=
op-talk@autox.team.net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Sugges=
ted annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br=
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net<br><br></body></html>=

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5845633154543495386==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 22:33:37 2016
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References: <6.2.5.6.1.20160419094244.04cc1ca0@cox.net>
 <BAY402-EAS18894140D542993784D3B2FA86C0@phx.gbl>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:19:04 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.7.2
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============8877758669137466728==
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--------------030304080405040000060305
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What Jack said; Upholstery twist pins are available at any of the 
fabric/sewing stores, and in my case, they worked fine for a couple of 
years.  Definitely the first thing to try.



On 4/19/2016 11:34 AM, jibrooks@live.com wrote:
>
> Back when I had a Saab 9000 with the same issue I put upholstery twist 
> pins (hillman pn 122264) into the cardboard backer material. This will 
> only work if the basket is soft like cardboard.
>
> It is not beautiful,  but it is functional.
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 8:05 AM -0700, "John T. Blair" 
>
> At 07:40 AM 4/19/2016, Philip Ethier wrote:
>
> >My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.Â  What's the fix for this?
>
> Unfortunately, I don't think there is a fix in a can.  Usually the 
> head liners are a
> piece of cloth with a foam rubber backing which is glued to a 
> fiberglass shell.
>
> Over the years, heat and cool cycles, and wind beating on it (windows 
> rolled down)
> the foam rubber drys out and crumbles.
>
> You can try getting any spray glue and seeing if that won't hold it up 
> for a while,
> but the real fix is to take it to a shop and have them remove the 
> headliner, clean
> the old cloth off the shell, and install new material.  I don't have 
> any idea what
> it costs today.  I had a Voyager van done years ago for about $125 
> dollars.  But
> like I say that was well over 10 yrs ago.
>
> John
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link> 
>
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan <http://www.team.net/www/morgan>
> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org <http://www.bricklin.org/>
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and acting  for
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or restriction
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/steve@hochschild.org
>


--------------030304080405040000060305
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    What Jack said; Upholstery twist pins are available at any of the
    fabric/sewing stores, and in my case, they worked fine for a couple
    of years.  Definitely the first thing to try.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/19/2016 11:34 AM,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jibrooks@live.com">jibrooks@live.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:BAY402-EAS18894140D542993784D3B2FA86C0@phx.gbl"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <p dir="auto">Back when I had a Saab 9000 with the same issue I
        put upholstery twist pins (hillman pn 122264) into the cardboard
        backer material. This will only work if the basket is soft like
        cardboard.
      </p>
      <p dir="auto">It is not beautiful,  but it is functional. </p>
      <p dir="auto">Jack<br>
      </p>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 8:05 AM -0700,
        "John T. Blair" <span dir="ltr">
          &lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:jblair1948@cox.net"
            target="_blank">jblair1948@cox.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <div><font size="3">At 07:40 AM 4/19/2016, Philip Ethier wrote:<br>
          <br>
          &gt;My MOL has a Saturn with a falling headliner.Â  What's the
          fix for this?<br>
          <br>
          Unfortunately, I don't think there is a fix in a can.  Usually
          the head liners are a
          <br>
          piece of cloth with a foam rubber backing which is glued to a
          fiberglass shell.<br>
          <br>
          Over the years, heat and cool cycles, and wind beating on it
          (windows rolled down)<br>
          the foam rubber drys out and crumbles. <br>
          <br>
          You can try getting any spray glue and seeing if that won't
          hold it up for a while,<br>
          but the real fix is to take it to a shop and have them remove
          the headliner, clean<br>
          the old cloth off the shell, and install new material.  I
          don't have any idea what<br>
          it costs today.  I had a Voyager van done years ago for about
          $125 dollars.  But<br>
          like I say that was well over 10 yrs ago.<br>
          <br>
          John<br>
          <br>
        </font><br>
        <table style="border-top:1px solid #aaabb6">
          <tbody>
            <tr>
              <td style="width:55px; padding-top:13px"><a
                  moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&amp;utm_source=link&amp;utm_campaign=sig-email&amp;utm_content=emailclient&amp;utm_term=icon"
                  target="_blank"><img moz-do-not-send="true"
src="https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/2016/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-v1.png"></a></td>
              <td style="width:470px; padding-top:15px; color:#41424e;
                font-size:13px; font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;
                line-height:18px">
                Virus-free. <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&amp;utm_source=link&amp;utm_campaign=sig-email&amp;utm_content=emailclient&amp;utm_term=link"
                  target="_blank" style="color:#4453ea">
                  www.avast.com</a> </td>
            </tr>
          </tbody>
        </table>
        <br>
        <div>John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jblair1948@cox.net">jblair1948@cox.net</a></div>
        <div>Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229</div>
        <br>
        <div>          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series
          V (B1106)</div>
        <div>     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab
          Sonett III</div>
        <div>                       65 Rambler Classic</div>
        <br>
        <div>Morgan:    <a moz-do-not-send="true"
            href="http://www.team.net/www/morgan">www.team.net/www/morgan</a></div>
        <div>Bricklin:  <a moz-do-not-send="true"
            href="http://www.bricklin.org/">www.bricklin.org</a> </div>
        <br>
        <div>If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!</div>
        <div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
        <br>
        <div>From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
        <div>     e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."</div>
        <div>     In God We Trust</div>
        <div>     Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and 
          acting  for  </div>
        <div>                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or 
          restriction  </div>
        <br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 19 23:06:52 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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 <BAY402-EAS18894140D542993784D3B2FA86C0@phx.gbl>
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2016 19:02:48 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.7.2
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] falling headliner fix?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 > Moral to the story: if you're a passable wrench, and you have
> self-service junkyards nearby, and you can't find someone to do a
> recover locally at a decent price, depending on the age of the vehicle
> replacement may be an option too.

Further consideration: had I been more than a passable wrench at the 
time I'd probably still have the car.

It was an automatic, and the ZF 4HP18 slushbox was shaky and unpleasant 
(by my standards) and rumored to be unreliable.

Ours never blew up, and I donated the car at just short of 200K, but 
it's one of probably three cars I've ever disposed of (the other being a 
99EMS) that - in the sense that I then regarded a manual-transmission 
swap as beyond the pale, but would not fear it now - I regret parting with.

John.

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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 18:51:20 -0400
 04/24/2016 23:06:47, Serialize complete at 04/24/2016 23:06:47
Subject: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============3265422544555009146==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 00806CFD85257F9F_=

I have a soda machine that I'm about to put back in service after 
restoring it.  It will be out in the general public.

The last piece I need is a small (about 1" high by 5" wide) piece of 
plexiglass that is 'vandal proof' (or whatever term they use.)

This will cover the LED readout, so it needs to be semi-clear.  If you 
look at any modern vending machine, they all have them.  Most a tinted 
'blueish'

Then I need to glue it to the plastic frame (this is how the original one 
was done.

Two questions...

Where can plexiglass, and what type of glue (and source) do I use?

TIA

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 00806CFD85257F9F_=


<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I have a soda machine that I'm about
to put back in service after restoring it. &nbsp;It will be out in the
general public.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">The last piece I need is a small (about
1&quot; high by 5&quot; wide) piece of plexiglass that is 'vandal proof'
(or whatever term they use.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">This will cover the LED readout, so
it needs to be semi-clear. &nbsp;If you look at any modern vending machine,
they all have them. &nbsp;Most a tinted 'blueish'</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Then I need to glue it to the plastic
frame (this is how the original one was done.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Two questions...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Where can plexiglass, and what type
of glue (and source) do I use?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">TIA</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 00806CFD85257F9F_=--

--===============3265422544555009146==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3265422544555009146==--

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 00:57:38 -0700
Thread-Index: AdGew6CP/srvbkcXTryDdTcLIPbs3gAAxs7A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My _guess_ is that it's polycarbonate (aka Lexan) rather than Plexiglas (aka acrylic).  They are similar, but Plexiglas is more
brittle and easier to break.  Bare Lexan scratches easier, but they offer it with various hard coatings, eg 
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#8707k129/=124rb2p

Haven't tried it myself, but I've heard that this stuff works well to glue many plastics:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm

-- Randall  

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References: <OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:00:45 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've used Interstate Plastics in the past for various things.  Looks
like this might work, although my connection is too slow this morning
to get a price:

https://www.interstateplastics.com/Acrylic-Cear-Bullet-Resistant-Sar-level-1-Sheet-ACRE1CPSHdead.php

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 6:51 PM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
> I have a soda machine that I'm about to put back in service after restoring
> it.  It will be out in the general public.
>
> The last piece I need is a small (about 1" high by 5" wide) piece of
> plexiglass that is 'vandal proof' (or whatever term they use.)
>
> This will cover the LED readout, so it needs to be semi-clear.  If you look
> at any modern vending machine, they all have them.  Most a tinted 'blueish'
>
> Then I need to glue it to the plastic frame (this is how the original one
> was done.
>
> Two questions...
>
> Where can plexiglass, and what type of glue (and source) do I use?
>
> TIA
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
> Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
>
_______________________________________________

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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 07:57:34 -0500
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
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--===============1646253939429071014==
 boundary=Apple-Mail-087312BA-52B0-4378-86F2-3622B99AB6DE
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	charset=us-ascii
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 Check into polycarbonate. It's tough stuff. McMaster-Carr has it. Don't kno=
w how thick you need.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity


On Apr 24, 2016, at 5:51 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:


I have a soda machine that I'm about to put back in service after restoring i=
t.  It will be out in the general public.=20

The last piece I need is a small (about 1" high by 5" wide) piece of plexigl=
ass that is 'vandal proof' (or whatever term they use.)=20

This will cover the LED readout, so it needs to be semi-clear.  If you look a=
t any modern vending machine, they all have them.  Most a tinted 'blueish'=20=


Then I need to glue it to the plastic frame (this is how the original one wa=
s done.=20

Two questions...=20

Where can plexiglass, and what type of glue (and source) do I use?=20

TIA=20

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational be=
ing are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo E=
merson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
as@icloud.com


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	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>&nbsp;Check into polycarbonate. It's tough stuff.&nbsp;<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">McMaster-Carr has it. Don't know how thick you need.&nbsp;</span></div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Peace,</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Pat<br><br>Pat Horne&nbsp;<div>We support Caldwell County Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Apr 24, 2016, at 5:51 PM, <a href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br><br></div><div>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">I have a soda machine that I'm about
to put back in service after restoring it. &nbsp;It will be out in the
general public.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">The last piece I need is a small (about
1" high by 5" wide) piece of plexiglass that is 'vandal proof'
(or whatever term they use.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">This will cover the LED readout, so
it needs to be semi-clear. &nbsp;If you look at any modern vending machine,
they all have them. &nbsp;Most a tinted 'blueish'</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Then I need to glue it to the plastic
frame (this is how the original one was done.</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Two questions...</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">Where can plexiglass, and what type
of glue (and source) do I use?</font>
<br>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif">TIA</font>
<br><font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font></div><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></body></html>
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
	<eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 14:45:06 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============8661020481168777176==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00F1_01D19F01.0EB45CE0"

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I've bought material from Online Metals. They also sell various types of =
plastics.=20
 =
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=3D270&step=3D2&top_cat=3D181 =


Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
------=_NextPart_000_00F1_01D19F01.0EB45CE0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I've bought material from Online =
Metals. They also=20
sell various types of plastics.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>&nbsp;<A=20
href=3D"http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=3D270&amp;step=3D2&am=
p;top_cat=3D181">http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=3D270&amp;st=
ep=3D2&amp;top_cat=3D181</A>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Eric Russell<BR>Mebane,=20
NC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com>
 <1D6D5DAE-46D9-4435-9FD1-E800678D4B93@icloud.com>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:08:53 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
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On 4/25/2016 5:57 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
>   Check into polycarbonate. It's tough stuff. McMaster-Carr has it.
> Don't know how thick you need.

Plexiglas is the original Rohm & Haas (IIRC) trademark for what is 
generically called acrylic.

Polycarbonate is the generic term for what was originally sold by GE as 
Lexan.

'Vandal proof' clear plastic is usually polycarbonate.  It is tougher 
and far more shatter-resistant (acrylic cracks quite easily particularly 
in < 1/4in thicknesses) though it can still be scratched and will melt 
if enough heat is applied.

Acrylic is commonly found in all kinds of colors and opacities. 
Polycarbonate is commonly found only as clear.  If you look at the edge 
of a sheet of clear acrylic it looks clear; the edge of a sheet of 
polycarbonate will look black.   Polycarbonate filters/absorbs different 
parts of the light spectrum than acrylic.

John.


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 26 01:58:42 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 12:17:13 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
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 > Acrylic is commonly found in all kinds of colors and opacities.
> Polycarbonate is commonly found only as clear.  If you look at the edge
> of a sheet of clear acrylic it looks clear; the edge of a sheet of
> polycarbonate will look black.   Polycarbonate filters/absorbs different
> parts of the light spectrum than acrylic.

This matters in particular if you're trying to assemble (acrylic 
solvent-welds easily, polycarbonate not really at all) or laser-cut on a 
CO2 laser (acrylic cuts nicely, polycarbonate just sucks up all the 
light and melts) random pieces of unknown plastic sheet.

John.

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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com>
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 15:46:20 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============1179767670602760208==
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On 4/24/2016 6:51 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> I have a soda machine that I'm about to put back in service after 
> restoring it.  It will be out in the general public.
>
> The last piece I need is a small (about 1" high by 5" wide) piece of 
> plexiglass that is 'vandal proof' (or whatever term they use.)
>
> This will cover the LED readout, so it needs to be semi-clear.  If you 
> look at any modern vending machine, they all have them.  Most a tinted 
> 'blueish'
>
> Then I need to glue it to the plastic frame (this is how the original 
> one was done.
>
> Two questions...
>
> Where can plexiglass, and what type of glue (and source) do I use?
>
> TIA
Unless you're going concours your local big box hardware store carries 
plexi and polycarb.  I'd go with the polycarb and just silcone chaulk.



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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/24/2016 6:51 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com"
      type="cite">
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">I have a soda machine that I'm
        about
        to put back in service after restoring it.  It will be out in
        the
        general public.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">The last piece I need is a small
        (about
        1" high by 5" wide) piece of plexiglass that is 'vandal proof'
        (or whatever term they use.)</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">This will cover the LED readout,
        so
        it needs to be semi-clear.  If you look at any modern vending
        machine,
        they all have them.  Most a tinted 'blueish'</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Then I need to glue it to the
        plastic
        frame (this is how the original one was done.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Two questions...</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Where can plexiglass, and what
        type
        of glue (and source) do I use?</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">TIA</font></blockquote>
    <font size="2">Unless you're going concours your local big box
      hardware store carries plexi and polycarb.  I'd go with the
      polycarb and just silcone chaulk.<br>
      <br>
    </font><br>
  </body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 26 03:23:56 2016
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
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We have place here in Buffalo called Great Lakes Plastic.

=20

They have a whole section of cut offs, ends etc.  If you tell me what =
you want size wise and thickness I can try and fine the time to see if =
they have it. Not a short drive=E2=80=A6.20 minutes or so=E2=80=A6.from =
my place, but if you need it and cannot find it anywhere else I will =
look.  They might even not have it.

=20

Tony V

www.lotusowners.com <http://www.lotusowners.com>=20

=20


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>We have =
place here in Buffalo called Great Lakes =
Plastic.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>They have a =
whole section of cut offs, ends etc.=C2=A0 If you tell me what you want =
size wise and thickness I can try and fine the time to see if they have =
it. Not a short drive=E2=80=A6.20 minutes or so=E2=80=A6.from my place, =
but if you need it and cannot find it anywhere else I will look.=C2=A0 =
They might even not have it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Tony =
V<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><a =
href=3D"http://www.lotusowners.com">www.lotusowners.com</a><o:p></o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 26 09:58:22 2016
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To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF3645164E.F5ECA73E-ON85257F9F.007D3970-85257F9F.00806CFD@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNemvz2PAS1OnHe8Sx0YGMTUj6mg+Tjm=ruOUbVUVi_JA@mail.gmail.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 19:04:03 -0700
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Source of special plexiglass
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I agree polycarbonate is probably what you need. I would check with my 
local full service glass place; they may give you a piece since what you 
need is essentially a scrap.

On 4/25/2016 5:00 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> I've used Interstate Plastics in the past for various things.  Looks
> like this might work, although my connection is too slow this morning
> to get a price:
>
> https://www.interstateplastics.com/Acrylic-Cear-Bullet-Resistant-Sar-level-1-Sheet-ACRE1CPSHdead.php
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 6:51 PM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>> I have a soda machine that I'm about to put back in service after restoring
>> it.  It will be out in the general public.
>>
>> The last piece I need is a small (about 1" high by 5" wide) piece of
>> plexiglass that is 'vandal proof' (or whatever term they use.)
>>
>> This will cover the LED readout, so it needs to be semi-clear.  If you look
>> at any modern vending machine, they all have them.  Most a tinted 'blueish'
>>
>> Then I need to glue it to the plastic frame (this is how the original one
>> was done.
>>
>> Two questions...
>>
>> Where can plexiglass, and what type of glue (and source) do I use?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
>> Eric P
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
>> Emerson
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
>
>

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Classic car insurance tangents...a follow up
Thread-Index: AQHRoiqUCvVREWk2KkqsbYEh2xAlBg==
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2016 15:19:54 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Classic car insurance tangents...a follow up
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Hi all,


I thought I would post a follow up since good customer service has become t=
he exception not the rule in this day and age.


As I had said a while back, the Phoenix Insurance company recommended by a =
Roadster owner said they don't write in WI. But the guy I dealt with at tha=
t company recommended Berkeley Classic Insurance. I did their online quote =
process for both the Roadster and Jeep, got great quotes for the values tha=
t I picked and then filled out the application.  The application was quickl=
y accepted and I now have an agreed upon amount of coverage for both vehicl=
es for under $300 annually. I've not yet read the fine print but so far the=
 whole process has been great.


Hagerty and Grundy can get stuffed


tim


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 2:03 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Classic car insurance tangents


I didn't want to hijack the original thread.....


First a question: How was your vehicle's value decided? I am especially int=
erested in hearing from the Datsun Roadster guys (and any of you who might =
have a FSJ; Full Size Jeep). A local Roadster owner was rear ended last yea=
r. It was a very slow hit but the repair estimate was well over what his co=
verage was. He has either grundy or hagerty. I do not remember.


I am ready to switch the Jeep (71 Gladiator fully restored and lifted, etc =
etc.) and my 70 Roadster to classic insurance but want to make sure they ar=
e insured for what it would cost to fix them if the worst happened.



Second, a knock on grundy: I looked into them when I got my Dad's Roadster.=
 At that time both of my daughters were in high school; one of which had he=
r license, and the wife and I both had clean driving records. Well, because=
 my daughter didn't have her own car, grundy denied me coverage stating "th=
e teen driver might take the Roadster for a drive because she didn't have h=
er own car". (<-----this is almost verbatim) It didn't matter that the chil=
d didn't know how to drive a manual or that fact that she wasn't allowed to=
 drive it. I have good kids and it would never have been an issue when they=
 were still at home.


so, take the grundy feedback any way you want. I was not happy with how I w=
as treated.


I hope to hear about the first bit from any and all of you.


Thanks

tim

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Hi all,&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I thought I would post a follow up since good customer service has becom=
e the exception not the rule in this day and age.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>As I had said a while back, the Phoenix Insurance company recommended by=
 a Roadster owner said they don't write in WI. But the guy I dealt with at =
that company recommended Berkeley Classic Insurance. I did their online quo=
te&nbsp;process for both the Roadster
 and Jeep, got great quotes for the values that&nbsp;I picked&nbsp;and then=
 filled out the application. &nbsp;The application was quickly&nbsp;accepte=
d and I now have an agreed upon amount of coverage for both vehicles for un=
der $300 annually. I've not yet read the fine print
 but so far the whole process has been great.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Hagerty and Grundy can get stuffed</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>tim</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, January 28, 2016 2:03 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Classic car insurance tangents</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>I didn't want to hijack the original thread.....</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>First a question: How was your vehicle's value decided? I am especially =
interested in hearing from the Datsun Roadster guys (and any of you who mig=
ht have a FSJ; Full Size Jeep). A local Roadster owner was rear ended last =
year. It was a very slow hit but
 the repair estimate was well over what his coverage was. He has either gru=
ndy or hagerty. I do not remember.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I am ready to switch the Jeep (71 Gladiator fully restored and lifted, e=
tc etc.) and my 70 Roadster to classic insurance but want to make sure they=
 are insured for what it would cost to fix them if the worst happened.&nbsp=
;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Second, a knock on grundy: I looked into them when I got my Dad's Roadst=
er. At that time both of my daughters were in high school; one of which had=
 her license, and the wife and I both had clean driving records. Well, beca=
use my daughter didn't have her
 own car, grundy denied me coverage stating &quot;the teen driver might tak=
e the Roadster for a drive because she didn't have her own car&quot;. (&lt;=
-----this is almost verbatim)&nbsp;It didn't matter that the child didn't k=
now how to drive a manual or that fact that she wasn't&nbsp;allowed
 to drive it. I have good kids and it would never have been an issue when t=
hey were still at home.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>so, take the grundy feedback any way you want. I was not happy with how =
I was treated.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I hope to hear about the first bit from any and all of you.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5409769082866097323==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 30 10:55:41 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2016 02:54:51 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pavers
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Thanks again for the great ideas on the weld on bung for the fuel tank. =
I am adding a patio outside the shop. Anyone have experience with the ed=
ging for paver projects?  Home Depot has the old standard powder coated =
steel but there are also options consisting of aluminum, Polypropylene a=
nd plastic. Any experience with this? Matt    
----__JWM__J281de685.422d6e80S.293aa990M
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<html><div>Thanks again for the great ideas on the weld on bung for the =
fuel tank.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I am adding a patio outside the shop.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Anyone have experience with the edging for paver projects? &nbsp;Ho=
me Depot has the old standard powder coated steel but there are also opt=
ions consisting of aluminum,&nbsp;Polypropylene and plastic. Any experie=
nce with this?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Matt</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div></html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0787885394711211182==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 30 23:28:58 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2016 22:17:59 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:45.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/45.0
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tool review: HF rotary hammer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi.  Just wanted to post a positive review for a tool I got yesterday at 
HF.  I needed to peel up a couple of hundred feet of 12" ceramic tiles 
glued down to a concrete slab prior to putting in some engineered bamboo 
flooring.  Took a few whacks with a sledge then bought a HF 1 9/16" sds 
max rotary hammer (#69334). Went on sale this week for $100, set of bits 
for just under half that.  I got it the day before the sale info came 
out but with 20% off it was $103.  Close enough to not go whine for the 
difference.


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-916-in-85-amp-heavy-duty-sds-max-type-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-69334.html

What a great decision.  Tile chips and dust everywhere and all tile up 
with just a few hours of work.


-- 
Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

