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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: water heater anode
Thread-Index: AQHRRPxPhdO8lPrkp0yWUvgaKllY5A==
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 01:28:21 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] water heater anode
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8481087257241721869==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB0503F023355DE6CD1098E845B4F00CY1PR13MB0503namp_"

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Hi all,


This house we bought has a Richmond electric water heater. I want to check =
the anode but there is no hex nut on top. All I see are plastic plugs that,=
 when pulled, only expose insulation.


I looked online and cannot find anything that shows how to do this on this =
brand's units. I realize that I am search challenged but looked for quite a=
 while.


I tried to send a message to the company via their website but the site wou=
ld not allow me to send the message.


Any thoughts or advice?

thanks

tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB0503F023355DE6CD1098E845B4F00CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
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1">
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n-bottom:0;} --></style>
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<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Hi all,&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>This house we bought has a Richmond electric water heater. I want to che=
ck the anode but there is no hex nut on top. All I see are plastic plugs th=
at, when pulled, only expose insulation.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I looked online and cannot find anything that shows how to do this on th=
is brand's units. I realize that I am search challenged but looked for quit=
e a while.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I tried to send a message to the company via their website but the site =
would not allow me to send the message.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Any thoughts or advice?&nbsp;</p>
<p>thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============8481087257241721869==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  1 20:13:51 2016
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 shop-talk@autox.team.net; Fri, 01 Jan 2016 22:17:28 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 2016 22:16:55 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] water heater anode
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============0930791930161359292==
 boundary="Boundary_(ID_/BvxMeksI1bWIBv5a/bNwg)"


--Boundary_(ID_/BvxMeksI1bWIBv5a/bNwg)
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

How about calling them?  Here's the "contact us" page:
http://www.richmondwaterheaters.com/Contact-Richmond-Water-Heaters

It says:

Customer Service Call Center
7:30am - 5:00pm Central Time Weekdays
Phone: 800.621.5622

-Steve

At 08:28 PM 1/1/2016, Tim . wrote:
>Content-Language: en-US
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> 
>boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB0503F023355DE6CD1098E845B4F00CY1PR13MB0503namp_"
>
>Hi all,
>
>
>This house we bought has a Richmond electric water heater. I want to 
>check the anode but there is no hex nut on top. All I see are 
>plastic plugs that, when pulled, only expose insulation.
>
>
>I looked online and cannot find anything that shows how to do this 
>on this brand's units. I realize that I am search challenged but 
>looked for quite a while.
>
>
>I tried to send a message to the company via their website but the 
>site would not allow me to send the message.

--Boundary_(ID_/BvxMeksI1bWIBv5a/bNwg)
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

<html>
<body>
How about calling them?&nbsp; Here's the &quot;contact us&quot;
page:<br>
<a href="http://www.richmondwaterheaters.com/Contact-Richmond-Water-Heaters" eudora="autourl">
http://www.richmondwaterheaters.com/Contact-Richmond-Water-Heaters</a><br>
<br>
It says:<br><br>
<b>Customer Service Call Center<br>
</b>7:30am - 5:00pm Central Time Weekdays<br>
Phone: 800.621.5622<br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 08:28 PM 1/1/2016, Tim . wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Content-Language: en-US<br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>
boundary=&quot;_000_CY1PR13MB0503F023355DE6CD1098E845B4F00CY1PR13MB0503namp_&quot;<br>
<br>
Hi all, <br><br>
<br>
This house we bought has a Richmond electric water heater. I want to
check the anode but there is no hex nut on top. All I see are plastic
plugs that, when pulled, only expose insulation. <br><br>
<br>
I looked online and cannot find anything that shows how to do this on
this brand's units. I realize that I am search challenged but looked for
quite a while. <br><br>
<br>
I tried to send a message to the company via their website but the site
would not allow me to send the message. </blockquote></body>
</html>

--Boundary_(ID_/BvxMeksI1bWIBv5a/bNwg)--

--===============0930791930161359292==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0930791930161359292==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  1 20:18:01 2016
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From: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] water heater anode
Thread-Index: AQHRRQxNAQ+jel66+0eBF+8SC3HwiJ7nj4/o
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 03:22:42 +0000
References: <0O0B00J0J2H329A0@mta7.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] water heater anode
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1630805692008486334==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_DM3PR20MB061908B969BF86A13E013DA7BBF00DM3PR20MB0619namp_"

--_000_DM3PR20MB061908B969BF86A13E013DA7BBF00DM3PR20MB0619namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have no personal experience, but I have heard that sometimes the anode is=
 located inside the water inlet. Maybe if you look at the inlet, you will s=
ee an extra hex that would indicate the anode.

Brian


On January 1, 2016, at 8:18 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wro=
te:

How about calling them?  Here's the "contact us" page:
http://www.richmondwaterheaters.com/Contact-Richmond-Water-Heaters

It says:

Customer Service Call Center
7:30am - 5:00pm Central Time Weekdays
Phone: 800.621.5622

-Steve

At 08:28 PM 1/1/2016, Tim . wrote:
Content-Language: en-US
         boundary=3D"_000_CY1PR13MB0503F023355DE6CD1098E845B4F00CY1PR13MB05=
03namp_"

Hi all,


This house we bought has a Richmond electric water heater. I want to check =
the anode but there is no hex nut on top. All I see are plastic plugs that,=
 when pulled, only expose insulation.


I looked online and cannot find anything that shows how to do this on this =
brand's units. I realize that I am search challenged but looked for quite a=
 while.


I tried to send a message to the company via their website but the site wou=
ld not allow me to send the message.

--_000_DM3PR20MB061908B969BF86A13E013DA7BBF00DM3PR20MB0619namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
>
<meta content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii">
</head>
<body>
<style>
<!--
@font-face
	{font-family:Calibri}
-->
</style><font face=3D"Calibri">
<p dir=3D"ltr">I have no personal experience, but I have heard that sometim=
es the anode is located inside the water inlet. Maybe if you look at the in=
let, you will see an extra hex that would indicate the anode.</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">Brian</p>
<br>
<br>
On January 1, 2016, at 8:18 PM, Steven Trovato &lt;strovato@optonline.net&g=
t; wrote:<br>
<br>
</font>
<div>How about calling them?&nbsp; Here's the &quot;contact us&quot; page:<=
br>
<a href=3D"http://www.richmondwaterheaters.com/Contact-Richmond-Water-Heate=
rs">http://www.richmondwaterheaters.com/Contact-Richmond-Water-Heaters</a><=
br>
<br>
It says:<br>
<br>
<b>Customer Service Call Center<br>
</b>7:30am - 5:00pm Central Time Weekdays<br>
Phone: 800.621.5622<br>
<br>
-Steve<br>
<br>
At 08:28 PM 1/1/2016, Tim . wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite">Content-Language: en-US<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; boundary=3D&quot;_000_CY1P=
R13MB0503F023355DE6CD1098E845B4F00CY1PR13MB0503namp_&quot;<br>
<br>
Hi all, <br>
<br>
<br>
This house we bought has a Richmond electric water heater. I want to check =
the anode but there is no hex nut on top. All I see are plastic plugs that,=
 when pulled, only expose insulation.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I looked online and cannot find anything that shows how to do this on this =
brand's units. I realize that I am search challenged but looked for quite a=
 while.
<br>
<br>
<br>
I tried to send a message to the company via their website but the site wou=
ld not allow me to send the message.
</blockquote>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_DM3PR20MB061908B969BF86A13E013DA7BBF00DM3PR20MB0619namp_--

--===============1630805692008486334==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============1630805692008486334==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  2 07:23:15 2016
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] water heater anode
Thread-Index: AQHRRPxPhdO8lPrkp0yWUvgaKllY5J7nqXMAgACeCB6AAAHqlA==
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 14:27:48 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  water heater anode
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"There should also be some documentation online from the Richmond folks that you could read and/or download."

The pdf that I downloaded did not have anything for my model number.

"it probably is inline with the hot water port"

Makes sense but I hope not. This increases the chances of Mr hamfist here breaking something.

"Is it possible that if you dig down through the insulation you will come to the tank and a nice hex fitting that leads to the anode?"

This seems plausible but the insulation is the kind that, once cured, is pretty hard. I can remove it but it just doesn't seem like this would be the way to access a replaceable part.

thanks again everyone!
tim



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: water heater anode revisited
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Subject: [Shop-talk] water heater anode revisited
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Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB050373E5F1BFE5DBF19A748DB4F10CY1PR13MB0503namp_"

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Today I dug out close to three inches of hard-ish insulation and exposed a =
hex nut in one of the holes. My longest impact socket sticks out of the hol=
e about an inch. Great frelling design.


Anyway, I have a young neighbor, mid 20s, Sgt in the army, great shape, str=
ong, etc. He was holding the tank and I was using a four foot pipe on the w=
rench and the nut still didn't budge. (I was moving the tank.)


Soooooo, any further suggestions? I think I have enough air hose to get fro=
m my detached garage to the basement. Should I try an impact wrench? I hesi=
tate to encourage my hamfist gene.....


Thanks guys

tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB050373E5F1BFE5DBF19A748DB4F10CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Today I dug out close to three inches of hard-ish insulation and exposed=
 a hex nut in one of the holes. My longest impact socket sticks out of the =
hole about an inch. Great frelling design.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Anyway, I have a young&nbsp;neighbor, mid 20s, Sgt in the army, great sh=
ape, strong,&nbsp;etc. He was holding the tank and I was using a four foot =
pipe on the wrench and the nut still didn't budge. (I was moving the tank.)=
&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Soooooo, any further suggestions? I think I have enough air hose to get =
from my detached garage to the basement. Should I try an impact wrench? I h=
esitate to encourage my hamfist gene.....</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks guys</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  2 18:33:39 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Tim .'" <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 "'Shop  Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 17:35:15 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] water heater anode revisited
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> Soooooo, any further suggestions?

Replace it with a better made heater?  You could even make sure the drain pan works, and wait until it starts to leak ...

-- Randall  

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  2 18:40:39 2016
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 2016 20:44:04 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] water heater anode revisited
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tim,

Well, first I'll repeat my earlier advice.  Call the customer service 
800 number.  Beyond that, how old is this water heater?  There is 
usually a date on a plate somewhere.  Sometimes you are better 
leaving well enough alone and just replacing the heater when it 
fails.  I know there are benefits to maintaining a good anode.  You 
just don't want your good intentions to result in having to replace 
the water heater now.  Ultimately it is a judgment call based on what 
you are seeing and how much risk you want to take.

-Steve

At 07:21 PM 1/2/2016, Tim . wrote:
>Content-Language: en-US
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> 
>boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB050373E5F1BFE5DBF19A748DB4F10CY1PR13MB0503namp_"
>
>Today I dug out close to three inches of hard-ish insulation and 
>exposed a hex nut in one of the holes. My longest impact socket 
>sticks out of the hole about an inch. Great frelling design.
>
>
>Anyway, I have a young neighbor, mid 20s, Sgt in the army, great 
>shape, strong, etc. He was holding the tank and I was using a four 
>foot pipe on the wrench and the nut still didn't budge. (I was 
>moving the tank.)
>
>
>Soooooo, any further suggestions? I think I have enough air hose to 
>get from my detached garage to the basement. Should I try an impact 
>wrench? I hesitate to encourage my hamfist gene.....

_______________________________________________

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From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 22:30:30 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] water heater anode revisited
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============4980492508878375758==
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Any chance it was left-handed threads?

On 01/02/16 19:21, Tim . wrote:
>
> Today I dug out close to three inches of hard-ish insulation and 
> exposed a hex nut in one of the holes. My longest impact socket sticks 
> out of the hole about an inch. Great frelling design.
>
>
> Anyway, I have a young neighbor, mid 20s, Sgt in the army, great 
> shape, strong, etc. He was holding the tank and I was using a four 
> foot pipe on the wrench and the nut still didn't budge. (I was moving 
> the tank.)
>
>
> Soooooo, any further suggestions? I think I have enough air hose to 
> get from my detached garage to the basement. Should I try an impact 
> wrench? I hesitate to encourage my hamfist gene.....
>
>
> Thanks guys
>
> tim
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
>


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Any chance it was left-handed threads?<br>
      <br>
      On 01/02/16 19:21, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CY1PR13MB050373E5F1BFE5DBF19A748DB4F10@CY1PR13MB0503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
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      <div id="divtagdefaultwrapper"
style="font-size:12pt;color:#000000;background-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
        <p>Today I dug out close to three inches of hard-ish insulation
          and exposed a hex nut in one of the holes. My longest impact
          socket sticks out of the hole about an inch. Great frelling
          design. </p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>Anyway, I have a young neighbor, mid 20s, Sgt in the army,
          great shape, strong, etc. He was holding the tank and I was
          using a four foot pipe on the wrench and the nut still didn't
          budge. (I was moving the tank.) </p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>Soooooo, any further suggestions? I think I have enough air
          hose to get from my detached garage to the basement. Should I
          try an impact wrench? I hesitate to encourage my hamfist
          gene.....</p>
        <p><br>
        </p>
        <p>Thanks guys</p>
        <p>tim</p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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--------------030106030109070405060200--

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--===============4980492508878375758==--

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Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
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The Left rear Caliper on my 2006 Hyundai Elantra has been giving me fits.
It is not releasing enough.
I am on at least my third replacement (Autozone, I know I normally try 
to buy decent parts)
Have changed guide pins (autozone supplied pins are undersized and let 
the caliper bang around, have real parts store pins that fit, but have 
tried the undersized ones again also).

The caliper seems to move freely before mounting.

I have a replacement brake hose but the connection for the brake hose is 
rusted and now the flare nut is stripped.
I will need to cut it off and replace the flare nut and add an 
extension, kind of a pain as I will have to work back under the car for 
a good place to splice it in.

What should I do next?
How do I diagnose this better?

Is it possible for the hose to be slightly blocked, allowing pressure to 
apply the brakes but keeping them from releasing?

If the caliper wasn't sliding freely the pad wear should be uneven, last 
caliper replacement ate a brand new set of pads in less than 2K miles, 
very even wear on both pads, nothing like I have gotten with stuck pins.

Something else in the braking system to look into.

Except for replacing the hose I do not know what else to do or even how 
to trouble shoot this one.

Thanks,

Matt


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  5 18:27:53 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 20:00:12 -0500
 01/05/2016 19:59:58, Serialize complete at 01/05/2016 19:59:58
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============8318344894539309053==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 00081A7385257F32_=

I just went through this on an older truck. I had to replace ALL rubber 
hoses on the system (upstream of that brake.)

Once I did, I cut open the hoses to see that they were almost completely 
collapsed (even thought they looked fine from the outside.)

I took pics of them, but I can't find them (I think I deleted them because 
they didn't come out that well.)

I'd start there.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 00081A7385257F32_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">I just went through this on an older truck.
I had to replace ALL rubber hoses on the system (upstream of that brake.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Once I did, I cut open the hoses to
see that they were almost completely collapsed (even thought they looked
fine from the outside.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I took pics of them, but I can't find
them (I think I deleted them because they didn't come out that well.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I'd start there.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 00081A7385257F32_=--

--===============8318344894539309053==
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--===============8318344894539309053==--

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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 21:17:28 -0500
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6125017921082026449==

--001a1134145aacf7a20528a0f47c

Is the left-rear caliper the furthest from the master cylinder?  On my
4Runner (2004) this was the first one that would exhibit sticking (I
measured the stickiness by driving around the block and measure the
temperature on each rotor with an IR temp gun).  All the pins, slides, and
eventually the pistons would corrode and drag.  I could take the calipers
apart, sand, wire-wheel, and lubricate to get them to work again (and lower
the relative temperature measured).  OR, I found I could bleed the system
(carefully/well) and get the far caliper to stop sticking for a while--I
think you were going this direction with your logic of a blocked line.
Perhaps, air in the lines doesn't allow enough vacuum to retract the
piston?  Or the bleeding washes out "gunk" (tech term!).

Ymmv,
Ian

--001a1134145aacf7a20528a0f47c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div>Is the left-rear caliper the furthest from the m=
aster cylinder?=C2=A0 On my 4Runner (2004) this was the first one that woul=
d exhibit sticking (I measured the stickiness by driving around the block a=
nd measure the temperature on each rotor with an IR temp gun).=C2=A0 All th=
e pins, slides, and eventually the pistons would corrode and drag.=C2=A0 I =
could take the calipers apart, sand, wire-wheel, and lubricate to get them =
to work again (and lower the relative temperature measured).=C2=A0 OR, I fo=
und I could bleed the system (carefully/well) and get the far caliper to st=
op sticking for a while--I think you were going this direction with your lo=
gic of a blocked line.=C2=A0 Perhaps, air in the lines doesn&#39;t allow en=
ough vacuum to retract the piston?=C2=A0 Or the bleeding washes out &quot;g=
unk&quot; (tech term!).=C2=A0 <br><br></div>Ymmv,<br></div>Ian<br></div>

--001a1134145aacf7a20528a0f47c--

--===============6125017921082026449==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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--===============6125017921082026449==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  5 19:44:59 2016
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 20:47:55 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
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Not sure, but I think the passengers side is the furthest.
The brake fluid on this car is pretty clean, I flush it every time I 
change pads or work on it.
The rear brake hoses were replaced in the last year or two.
I bought front ones, but never put them on.
Looks like I will be grabbing the flaring tools and digging up fittings 
and brake line in the morning so I can replace the brake hose.
And replacing the fronts while I am at it.

This car has been pretty decent, around 200k on it so far, some repairs 
alternator, master cylinder, rear suspension, O2's,  but nothing that 
bothered me too bad for 10yrs 200k.

But brakes have been a hassle from day 1.
I always said that the master cylinder wasn't right, push down on the 
peddle and the car would start to stop fine, but then you had to keep 
apply more pedal pressure to keep it stopping.
Dealer mechanics said ' it stops fine'
And it did if you jammed the brakes, but used normally (and if you had a 
brain and some give a darn) you could tell something was wrong.
That and the fact that it ate REAR brake pads, while the fronts looked fine.
Master cylinder finally gave up, put new on in and the car stopped the 
way it should.

Also emergency brake cable (driver side) froze up years ago, causing 
dragging that caused enough heat to kill the OEM caliper.

Add to that pulling the whole rear interior apart looking for a clunking 
noise, just to finally figure out that the autozone supplied guide pins 
are too small and allowed the caliper to clunk around.
And then getting correct guide pins, lubing them with wheel bearing 
grease only to find out that the rubber seal on the guide pin was not 
compatible with the grease.
Rubber bushing swelled up like crazy.
Not only did it eat the brake pads, but took me forever to get the guide 
pin out of the housing.

Still like the car for what it is, but if I never have to touch the 
brakes again I would be a happy man.

Thanks for the advice and letting me vent.

Matt


On 1/5/2016 8:17 PM, Ian McFetridge wrote:
> Is the left-rear caliper the furthest from the master cylinder?  On my 
> 4Runner (2004) this was the first one that would exhibit sticking (I 
> measured the stickiness by driving around the block and measure the 
> temperature on each rotor with an IR temp gun).  All the pins, slides, 
> and eventually the pistons would corrode and drag.  I could take the 
> calipers apart, sand, wire-wheel, and lubricate to get them to work 
> again (and lower the relative temperature measured).  OR, I found I 
> could bleed the system (carefully/well) and get the far caliper to 
> stop sticking for a while--I think you were going this direction with 
> your logic of a blocked line.  Perhaps, air in the lines doesn't allow 
> enough vacuum to retract the piston?  Or the bleeding washes out 
> "gunk" (tech term!).
>
> Ymmv,
> Ian


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
	"Matt Wehland" <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
References: <568C6B43.5010209@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 22:03:20 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
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> Is it possible for the hose to be slightly blocked, allowing pressure to 
> apply the brakes but keeping them from releasing?

Yes, the hose can delaminate internally and act like a one-way valve.

One way to check is to jack up the axle in question, apply & release the 
brakes and while noting the drag, crack open the bleed screw. If a little 
bit of brake fluid is expelled and the drag is noticeably reduced then a 
faulty hose is likely.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

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From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 21:30:23 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
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Thanks Eric, just the type of advice I was looking for.

Just tried it, got a little fluid expelled, but no decrease in drag.

Even so, the more I think about it, the more I am leaning towards hoses.
Thinking even the fronts could be impacting this, as if they swell/flex 
too much there might not be enough pressure in the system to retract the 
caliper.

Also the last few times I have done brakes on this car, I have not been 
able to get as firm a pedal as I wanted.
No matter how much nor how many times I bleed the brakes.

Probably one of the reasons I bought the front hoses, but I just never 
got around to putting them on.

Good intentions, lazy mechanic.

Hopefully replacing all the hoses will bring me some improvement.

Just not looking forward to spicing the hard line, not too hard, just 
never one of my favorite things.
And the location/routing of this one is not lending itself to an easy 
splice.

The hyundai  was the wifes daily driver, and she works a weird changing 
schedule, so never had much good down time before.
She just got a new car so it is now my second car (again).
Need to get it fixed up good enough so I can park my Mustang again and 
start working on it, lots of TLC needed on that one.  Lots needed.
Fiscally foolish to even put the money needed into the Mustang, but it 
was my first new car and I always planned on keeping it until I die.
So time to start spending 5k on a 3K car.

Matt


On 1/5/2016 9:03 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>> Is it possible for the hose to be slightly blocked, allowing pressure 
>> to apply the brakes but keeping them from releasing?
>
> Yes, the hose can delaminate internally and act like a one-way valve.
>
> One way to check is to jack up the axle in question, apply & release 
> the brakes and while noting the drag, crack open the bleed screw. If a 
> little bit of brake fluid is expelled and the drag is noticeably 
> reduced then a faulty hose is likely.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
>


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533

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Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 20:15:02 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
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> Just tried it, got a little fluid expelled, but no decrease in drag.
> 
> Even so, the more I think about it, the more I am leaning 
> towards hoses.

If opening the bleed valve didn't decrease the drag, then you're almost certainly looking at mechanical binding rather than a
hydraulic problem.  I've no idea what Hyundai rear calipers look like; but could it be the parking brake or its linkage/cable?

That's not to say the hoses couldn't need replacement as well.

Randall

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <81.56.08984.4C49C865@cdptpa-oedge02>
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2016 23:40:01 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well then any more suggestions on what to look at?
The rotor is new and seems fairly true by eye, no dial indicator to 
check hub/rotor runout.

I need to put a tire on it to make sure the rotor is snugged up, or find 
some washers, the lug nuts are bottomed out with just the rotor on it, 
but it seems fairly snug with no play.

The binding/dragging is 360 degrees, but is tighter at some spots.

The parking brake cable is not hooked up, not does it even have an end 
on it.
Cable froze up several years ago, just cut the end off, easy middle of 
winter fix.
Wife never used the parking brake, so I never bothered replacing the cable.

Now that I am back driving it, it is on my list of things to fix.

I have to work all day tomorrow, probably won't touch it tomorrow.
I will try some things out on Thursday and check back in.

Matt


On 1/5/2016 10:15 PM, Randall wrote:
>> Just tried it, got a little fluid expelled, but no decrease in drag.
>>
>> Even so, the more I think about it, the more I am leaning
>> towards hoses.
> If opening the bleed valve didn't decrease the drag, then you're almost certainly looking at mechanical binding rather than a
> hydraulic problem.  I've no idea what Hyundai rear calipers look like; but could it be the parking brake or its linkage/cable?
>
> That's not to say the hoses couldn't need replacement as well.
>
> Randall
>
>


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533

_______________________________________________

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 <E937C6A249BD4E03AD0D6E10044429BE@EricJRussellPC>
 <568C8A4F.2070507@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 07:55:29 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 10:30 PM, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote:
> Even so, the more I think about it, the more I am leaning towards hoses.
> Thinking even the fronts could be impacting this, as if they swell/flex too
> much there might not be enough pressure in the system to retract the
> caliper.

It's my understanding that most modern two-circuit brake systems
operate one front and one rear wheel on each circuit.  So pressure
held on a front brake might affect a rear brake.  But you could easily
verify by running the same apply>spin>bleed test on the front.  I
might look at the caliper support to make sure it's true to the hub
and secure to the car.  I also might try a different brand of caliper.
Rock Auto has several choices for about the same as the AutoZone
price.

Looking at the pictures, I'd make sure that E-brake lever isn't
flopping around and doing something unseemly.

And would it be less trouble to replace the entire brake pipe instead
of messing around underneath trying to make a splice?  Where's the far
end?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 08:15:37 -0500
References: <568C6B43.5010209@littlegrassy.com>
 <CAFnfnRVS2zR=ZjMREqfwEV141Zup1v0oVM2hYJaCdtnqANJv1A@mail.gmail.com>
 <568C805B.1050100@littlegrassy.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5056106449703272235==


--Apple-Mail=_883AF206-00CF-4D2E-94D3-871AAD536FDA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

For what it's worth, both my Subaru Impreza and my Mini Cooper use rears =
faster than fronts. And I can feel the rears bite before the front. =
Maybe it's a safety thing, to settle the car before really slowing it?

If I have to brake hard, I don't notice which bites first, but 99% of my =
braking is the last 50' or so, or removing just a bit of speed, so light =
braking, I can feel the rears, and sometimes I think that's all I'm =
using.

Did you replace the proportioning valve too? It might have a piece of =
gunk in there messing the L-R balance up.

jim

On Jan 5, 2016, at 9:47 PM, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote:

> That and the fact that it ate REAR brake pads, while the fronts looked =
fine.


--Apple-Mail=_883AF206-00CF-4D2E-94D3-871AAD536FDA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;">For =
what it's worth, both my Subaru Impreza and my Mini Cooper use rears =
faster than fronts. And I can feel the rears bite before the front. =
Maybe it's a safety thing, to settle the car before really slowing =
it?<div><br></div><div>If I have to brake hard, I don't notice which =
bites first, but 99% of my braking is the last 50' or so, or removing =
just a bit of speed, so light braking, I can feel the rears, and =
sometimes I think that's all I'm using.</div><div><br></div><div>Did you =
replace the proportioning valve too? It might have a piece of gunk in =
there messing the L-R balance =
up.</div><div><br></div><div>jim</div><div><br><div><div>On Jan 5, 2016, =
at 9:47 PM, Matt Wehland &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mjw@littlegrassy.com">mjw@littlegrassy.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: =
none; display: inline !important;">That and the fact that it ate REAR =
brake pads, while the fronts looked =
fine.</span></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_883AF206-00CF-4D2E-94D3-871AAD536FDA--

--===============5056106449703272235==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============5056106449703272235==--

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 <568C805B.1050100@littlegrassy.com>
 <DBDD691E-F290-44AA-83DA-FDF464BD9D50@groupwbench.org>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 08:20:45 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2569748000141844694==

--001a11395ca8bddad50528aa3861

All of my VW's have also used the rears faster.  Somebody once told me it
was to make the car brake flatter so that you don't feel the nose dive with
light braking.

-Paul

On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 8:15 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> For what it's worth, both my Subaru Impreza and my Mini Cooper use rears
> faster than fronts. And I can feel the rears bite before the front. Maybe
> it's a safety thing, to settle the car before really slowing it?
>
> If I have to brake hard, I don't notice which bites first, but 99% of my
> braking is the last 50' or so, or removing just a bit of speed, so light
> braking, I can feel the rears, and sometimes I think that's all I'm using.
>
> Did you replace the proportioning valve too? It might have a piece of gunk
> in there messing the L-R balance up.
>
> jim
>
> On Jan 5, 2016, at 9:47 PM, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote:
>
> That and the fact that it ate REAR brake pads, while the fronts looked
> fine.
>
>

--001a11395ca8bddad50528aa3861
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">All of my VW&#39;s have also used the rears faster.=C2=A0 =
Somebody once told me it was to make the car brake flatter so that you don&=
#39;t feel the nose dive with light braking.<div><br></div><div>-Paul<br><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Jan 6, 2016=
 at 8:15 AM, Jim Franklin <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@gr=
oupwbench.org" target=3D"_blank">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt;</span> wrot=
e:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">Fo=
r what it&#39;s worth, both my Subaru Impreza and my Mini Cooper use rears =
faster than fronts. And I can feel the rears bite before the front. Maybe i=
t&#39;s a safety thing, to settle the car before really slowing it?<div><br=
></div><div>If I have to brake hard, I don&#39;t notice which bites first, =
but 99% of my braking is the last 50&#39; or so, or removing just a bit of =
speed, so light braking, I can feel the rears, and sometimes I think that&#=
39;s all I&#39;m using.</div><div><br></div><div>Did you replace the propor=
tioning valve too? It might have a piece of gunk in there messing the L-R b=
alance up.</div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><div><br></d=
iv><div>jim</div></font></span><span class=3D""><div><br><div><div>On Jan 5=
, 2016, at 9:47 PM, Matt Wehland &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mjw@littlegrassy.com=
" target=3D"_blank">mjw@littlegrassy.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><blockquot=
e type=3D"cite"><span style=3D"font-family:Helvetica;font-size:12px;font-st=
yle:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;lin=
e-height:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-=
space:normal;word-spacing:0px;float:none;display:inline!important">That and=
 the fact that it ate REAR brake pads, while the fronts looked fine.</span>=
</blockquote></div></div></span></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></=
div>

--001a11395ca8bddad50528aa3861--

--===============2569748000141844694==
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--===============2569748000141844694==--

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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 07:24:40 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.5.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/6/2016 6:55 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> And would it be less trouble to replace the entire brake pipe instead 
> of messing around underneath trying to make a splice? Where's the far 
> end? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. 

That is my thought too, have to get the front off the ground and get 
under it to see.


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  6 13:49:47 2016
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To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 15:07:49 -0500
 01/06/2016 15:07:32, Serialize complete at 01/06/2016 15:07:33,
 Serialize by Router on DOGBERT2/Megageek(Release 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============6420451047023380871==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 00712BCA85257F32_=

If you're near NJ and want to put it on a lift in a heated garage, let me 
know.  I love to do brake work!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 00712BCA85257F32_=

<tt><font size=2>If you're near NJ and want to put it on a lift in a heated
garage, let me know. &nbsp;I love to do brake work!<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent&nbsp;from&nbsp;my&nbsp;Commodore&nbsp;64&nbsp;on&nbsp;a&nbsp;2400&nbsp;Baud&nbsp;Modem.<br>
Eric&nbsp;P<br>
&quot;Be&nbsp;as&nbsp;beneficent&nbsp;as&nbsp;the&nbsp;sun&nbsp;or&nbsp;the&nbsp;sea,&nbsp;but&nbsp;if&nbsp;your&nbsp;rights&nbsp;as&nbsp;a&nbsp;rational&nbsp;being&nbsp;are&nbsp;trenched&nbsp;on,&nbsp;die&nbsp;on&nbsp;the&nbsp;first&nbsp;inch&nbsp;of&nbsp;your&nbsp;territory.&quot;&nbsp;Ralph&nbsp;Waldo&nbsp;Emerson&nbsp;</font></tt>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  6 17:52:24 2016
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: shipping international
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Subject: [Shop-talk] shipping international
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--===============3947807084716832599==
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	boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB050325E03D7327D6E5613FC0B4F50CY1PR13MB0503namp_"

--_000_CY1PR13MB050325E03D7327D6E5613FC0B4F50CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anyone have any experience using or a recommendation for a what was re=
ferred to as a "freight forwarder" by a guy in Australia to whom I need to =
ship some parts? I guess their dollar is down against the US dollar so am t=
rying to help him save on shipping (and keep him buying parts!).


I can do a google search but prefer to go by others' recommendations.


thanks

tim



--_000_CY1PR13MB050325E03D7327D6E5613FC0B4F50CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
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<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>Does anyone have any experience using or a recommendation for a what was=
 referred to as a &quot;<span style=3D"font-size: 15px;">freight forwarder&=
quot; by a guy in Australia to whom I need to ship some parts? I guess thei=
r dollar is down against the US dollar so am
 trying to help him save on shipping (and keep him buying parts!).</span></=
p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;">I can do a google search but prefer to =
go by others' recommendations.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;">thanks</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;">tim</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size: 15px;"><br>
</span></p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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References: <81.56.08984.4C49C865@cdptpa-oedge02>
 <568CA8B1.1090309@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 19:34:06 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticking/Draging caliper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> On Jan 5, 2016, at 23:40, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote:
>
> Well then any more suggestions on what to look at?
> The rotor is new and seems fairly true by eye, no dial indicator to check hub/rotor runout.
>

My checklist for dragging brakes is:

1) check rotor size (an over thick rotor causes problems, and is hard
to spot w/o measuring and it's easy to check and you feel like a moron
when you waste four hours before checking.  Not that I've ever done
that twice, mind you)
2) caliper adjustment for sliding on pins, etc
3) bleed
4) hoses
5) master cylinder mechanical adjustments -- there are usually specs
for clearance between the booster push rod and the master, and
sometimes for the booster to pedal connection
5) other hydraulic components.
7) Head scratching.





> I need to put a tire on it to make sure the rotor is snugged up, or find some washers, the lug nuts are bottomed out with just the rotor on it, but it seems fairly snug with no play
>
> The binding/dragging is 360 degrees, but is tighter at some spots.
>
> The parking brake cable is not hooked up, not does it even have an end on it.
> Cable froze up several years ago, just cut the end off, easy middle of winter fix.
> Wife never used the parking brake, so I never bothered replacing the cable.
>
> Now that I am back driving it, it is on my list of things to fix.
>
> I have to work all day tomorrow, probably won't touch it tomorrow.
> I will try some things out on Thursday and check back in.
>
> Matt
>
>
> On 1/5/2016 10:15 PM, Randall wrote:
>>> Just tried it, got a little fluid expelled, but no decrease in drag.
>>>
>>> Even so, the more I think about it, the more I am leaning
>>> towards hoses.
>> If opening the bleed valve didn't decrease the drag, then you're almost certainly looking at mechanical binding rather than a
>> hydraulic problem.  I've no idea what Hyundai rear calipers look like; but could it be the parking brake or its linkage/cable?
>>
>> That's not to say the hoses couldn't need replacement as well.
>>
>> Randall
>
>
> --
> Matt Wehland
> (815) 295-4533
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt@gmail.com
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  6 19:08:55 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 20:19:44 -0500
 01/06/2016 20:19:46, Serialize complete at 01/06/2016 20:19:46
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] shipping international
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============5809196217286055784==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0009ECE485257F33_=

First, STAY AWAY FROM "FREIGHT CENTER .COM"!!!!!!!  They will be all nice 
to you and quote you a cheap price.  Then, once it's delivered, they will 
hit you with all kinds of extra fees and charges.  I weight everything 
before it ships and they tried to tell my one of my pallets was over 
100LBS more than it really was!

Here is the best way to do it.  Call UPS Freight (I guess do this for 
Fedex as well.)  Tell them that you want to open a commercial account. 
Then tell them that you know you will get about a 65% discount on the 
rates.  It might take a few calls, but they will deeply discount their 
rates for freight shippers.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

--=_alternative 0009ECE485257F33_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, STAY AWAY FROM &quot;FREIGHT CENTER
.COM&quot;!!!!!!! &nbsp;They will be all nice to you and quote you a cheap
price. &nbsp;Then, once it's delivered, they will hit you with all kinds
of extra fees and charges. &nbsp;I weight everything before it ships and
they tried to tell my one of my pallets was over 100LBS more than it really
was!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Here is the best way to do it. &nbsp;Call
UPS Freight (I guess do this for Fedex as well.) &nbsp;Tell them that you
want to open a commercial account. &nbsp;Then tell them that you know you
will get about a 65% discount on the rates. &nbsp;It might take a few calls,
but they will deeply discount their rates for freight shippers.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
<br>
--=_alternative 0009ECE485257F33_=--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  6 19:38:04 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop  Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 18:17:47 -0800
Thread-Index: AQHRSOIC9V+2Qzb7TEuiJoWwwXwN8p7vTe+g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] shipping international
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Does anyone have any experience using or a recommendation for 
> a what was referred to as a "freight forwarder" by a guy in 
> Australia to whom I need to ship some parts?

I've used Forward Air and been happy with the results.  But that was within the US (TX to CA) and they only handle North America;
I'm not sure how to connect with a similar service in OZ.
https://www.forwardair.com/

The folks in TX apparently loaned the seller a pallet, and helped him band the boxes (of engine parts) to the pallet.  I cut the
bands and left the pallet at the CA terminal.  They offered to fork lift it into my truck; but since I was driving a station wagon,
I needed to unload the pallet to make it fit.

Strictly terminal to terminal, though, so you'll need to check where the nearest one is.

Cost was very reasonable, they charged less for the whole pallet than UPS wanted for each box!  (And UPS would not take the engine
block.)

-- Randall  

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: shipping international
Thread-Index: AQHRSOIC9V+2Qzb7TEuiJoWwwXwN8p7ySIQK
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2016 23:35:08 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] shipping international
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Thanks for the couple good pieces of information I received!


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 6:29 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] shipping international


Does anyone have any experience using or a recommendation for a what was re=
ferred to as a "freight forwarder" by a guy in Australia to whom I need to =
ship some parts? I guess their dollar is down against the US dollar so am t=
rying to help him save on shipping (and keep him buying parts!).


I can do a google search but prefer to go by others' recommendations.


thanks

tim



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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Thanks for the couple good pieces of information I received!&nbsp;</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, January 6, 2016 6:29 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] shipping international</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>Does anyone have any experience using or a recommendation for a what was=
 referred to as a &quot;<span style=3D"font-size:15px">freight forwarder&qu=
ot; by a guy in Australia to whom I need to ship some parts? I guess their =
dollar is down against the US dollar so am trying
 to help him save on shipping (and keep him buying parts!).</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px">I can do a google search but prefer to go=
 by others' recommendations.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px">thanks</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px">tim</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px"><br>
</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-size:15px"><br>
</span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  8 18:39:42 2016
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Received: by 10.202.197.142 with HTTP; Fri, 8 Jan 2016 17:13:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2016 20:13:48 -0500
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Starting a boiler
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8648571971788607314==

--001a11c2e0dce3af4e0528dc6c64

New house has hot-water radiant heat. It was on when I looked at the house
last winter.

It's going to get into the teens here this weekend, so I thought I'd like
to use it.

I have no idea how to start a boiler.

I've done what the interwebs said for bleeding the radiators (except for
one--I bought the smallest vent key ACE had and it's too big for all the
radiators and too-big-enough for one of them such that it won't turn the
vent) and they've got water in them.

I don't know how to make the water hot. The boiler is a big square box in
the basement. It's got a gas line running to it. That gas line connects to
a control box that has water-heater-looking controls on it--the twist
on/off/pilot knob, and a copper line that I think is the pilot. Those go
into the box, and there's no way I can see to light the pilot with a flame,
but I don't see a piezo-electric sparker on it either. And pushing the
pilot knob down does not produce a whoosing sound I associate with flowing
gas.

None of the HVAC people I called seemed very interested in coming out to
light a boiler, which is just as well since I want to learn how to work
this myself.

Anybody got any ideas on where to start?

Thanks.

Scott

--001a11c2e0dce3af4e0528dc6c64
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">New house has hot-water radiant heat. It was on when I loo=
ked at the house last winter.<div><br></div><div>It&#39;s going to get into=
 the teens here this weekend, so I thought I&#39;d like to use it.</div><di=
v><br></div><div>I have no idea how to start a boiler.</div><div><br></div>=
<div>I&#39;ve done what the interwebs said for bleeding the radiators (exce=
pt for one--I bought the smallest vent key ACE had and it&#39;s too big for=
 all the radiators and too-big-enough for one of them such that it won&#39;=
t turn the vent) and they&#39;ve got water in them.</div><div><br></div><di=
v>I don&#39;t know how to make the water hot. The boiler is a big square bo=
x in the basement. It&#39;s got a gas line running to it. That gas line con=
nects to a control box that has water-heater-looking controls on it--the tw=
ist on/off/pilot knob, and a copper line that I think is the pilot. Those g=
o into the box, and there&#39;s no way I can see to light the pilot with a =
flame, but I don&#39;t see a piezo-electric sparker on it either. And pushi=
ng the pilot knob down does not produce a whoosing sound I associate with f=
lowing gas.</div><div><br></div><div>None of the HVAC people I called seeme=
d very interested in coming out to light a boiler, which is just as well si=
nce I want to learn how to work this myself.</div><div><br></div><div>Anybo=
dy got any ideas on where to start?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks.</div><=
div><br></div><div>Scott</div></div>

--001a11c2e0dce3af4e0528dc6c64--

--===============8648571971788607314==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============8648571971788607314==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  8 19:10:00 2016
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2016 20:54:09 -0500
References: <CAK73_u4JxmYfTbwbV11e9FCV5e0H4koqFaQnZcYuwMwsL-mGqA@mail.gmail.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starting a boiler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It depends how it was shut off. Typically, there's an electric switch on the front, and/or on the wall in the stairwell, kitchen, etc, with a red switch cover. Turn it on and it just goes. Shouldn't have to twiddle any knobs. 

Are you sure there's a pilot? As far as I know, that predates modern radiant systems. Does the know say pilot? Is this a homebrew setup or a reputable system from a known manufacturer?

Might help to post some pics. 

jim

On Jan 8, 2016, at 8:13 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:

> New house has hot-water radiant heat. It was on when I looked at the house last winter.
> 
> It's going to get into the teens here this weekend, so I thought I'd like to use it.
> 
> I have no idea how to start a boiler.
> 
> I've done what the interwebs said for bleeding the radiators (except for one--I bought the smallest vent key ACE had and it's too big for all the radiators and too-big-enough for one of them such that it won't turn the vent) and they've got water in them.
> 
> I don't know how to make the water hot. The boiler is a big square box in the basement. It's got a gas line running to it. That gas line connects to a control box that has water-heater-looking controls on it--the twist on/off/pilot knob, and a copper line that I think is the pilot. Those go into the box, and there's no way I can see to light the pilot with a flame, but I don't see a piezo-electric sparker on it either. And pushing the pilot knob down does not produce a whoosing sound I associate with flowing gas.
> 
> None of the HVAC people I called seemed very interested in coming out to light a boiler, which is just as well since I want to learn how to work this myself.
> 
> Anybody got any ideas on where to start?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
> 

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Scott Hall'" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2016 18:59:35 -0800
Thread-Index: AdFKf0/D7dxZ5kJRSCKOfO59WssT2wACWzOQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starting a boiler
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> Anybody got any ideas on where to start?

Look around for any kind of panel you can open, large or small.  There has to be a way to service the burner and thermocouple, which
should let you see how to light the pilot.  On my 60's furnace, you have to know to yank upwards on the front panel to get it off,
then reach under the burner to get a match near the pilot light.

Another possibility is a row of holes down the tube to the pilot.  I had an old Teledyne pool heater that worked that way.  Gas
would flow from the holes as long as you held the knob down in the pilot position, so you just lit the row of holes and the flame
ran down to the pilot under the burner.

If all else fails, call your gas company (assuming you have natural gas).  They should be willing to come light it for you, for
free.

Randall

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starting a boiler
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Not surprised.  Most commercial and residential HVAC people probably 
don't have a lot of boiler experience (and as an old stationary 
engineer, I didn't get a lot of commercial and residential experience, 
either...).

What you need is a plumber.  They can show you how to bleed the 
radiators, will probably have a key the correct size, and, most 
importantly, can check out the boiler and ignition system and show you 
how it works.

On 1/8/2016 5:13 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
>
> None of the HVAC people I called seemed very interested in coming out 
> to light a boiler, which is just as well since I want to learn how to 
> work this myself.
>

_______________________________________________

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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2016 22:28:16 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] winch for car trailer
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============1566678445515099300==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0132_01D14F1A.DD2EF080"

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------=_NextPart_000_0132_01D14F1A.DD2EF080
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I'd like to add a winch to my car trailer. I use the car trailer to haul =
an MGA vintage race car. Hopefully I'll always be able to drive the car =
onto the trailer but it seems like a winch might be good insurance...=20

I see low-priced units at Harbor Freight & Northern Tool and higher =
priced Warn units.=20

Two questions. 1) anyone have experience with the HF or NT low priced =
winches? B) how much winch do I need? I see them from "2500 lbs" to =
"9000 lbs".=20

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
------=_NextPart_000_0132_01D14F1A.DD2EF080
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I'd like to add a winch to my car =
trailer. I use=20
the car trailer to haul an MGA vintage race car. Hopefully I'll always =
be able=20
to drive the car onto the trailer but it seems like a winch might be =
good=20
insurance... </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I see low-priced units at Harbor =
Freight &amp;=20
Northern Tool and higher priced Warn units. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Two questions. 1) anyone have =
experience with the=20
HF or NT low priced winches? B) how much winch do I need? I see them =
from "2500=20
lbs" to "9000 lbs". </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Eric Russell<BR>Mebane,=20
NC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: Curious_John <john.f.briggs@gmail.com>
To: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>,
 shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2016 04:25:37 +0000
User-Agent: eM_Client/6.0.24144.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] winch for car trailer
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I would think the Harbor Freight "Marine Winch" would work for you.  I=20
have had one of the "power in only " versions for a long time and used=20
it quite a bit without problems.  The Marine version powers in and out,=20
and has a crank in case there is no power.  2000 lb pull capacity should=
=20
be more than enough for rolling load of an MGA.  You would want the No.=20
61237 as it has a longer hand crank than the 61876. I just bought one to=
=20
add to my pop up to raise and lower the top.  I will also use it to load=
=20
a small boat onto the camper.

Just my opinion.

------ Original Message ------
From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: 1/14/2016 10:28:16 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] winch for car trailer

>I'd like to add a winch to my car trailer. I use the car trailer to=20
>haul an MGA vintage race car. Hopefully I'll always be able to drive=20
>the car onto the trailer but it seems like a winch might be good=20
>insurance...
>
>I see low-priced units at Harbor Freight & Northern Tool and higher=20
>priced Warn units.
>
>Two questions. 1) anyone have experience with the HF or NT low priced=20
>winches? B) how much winch do I need? I see them from "2500 lbs" to=20
>"9000 lbs".
>
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC
--------=_MB2EAFB42F-A7AC-4237-8B50-483938D5716B
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff scroll=3Dauto class>
<DIV>I would think the Harbor Freight "Marine Winch" would work for you.&nb=
sp; I have had one of the "power in only " versions for a long time and =
used it quite a bit without problems.&nbsp; The Marine version powers in=
 and out, and has a crank in case there is no power.&nbsp; 2000 lb pull =
capacity should be more than enough for rolling load of an MGA.&nbsp; You=
 would want the No. 61237 as it has a longer hand crank than the 61876. =
I just bought one to add to my pop up to raise and lower the top.&nbsp; =
I will also use it to load a small boat onto the camper.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Just my opinion. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>------ Original Message ------</DIV>
<DIV>From: "Eric J Russell" &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:ejrussell@mebtel.net">ejr=
ussell@mebtel.net</A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>To: "shop-talk" &lt;<A href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-t=
alk@autox.team.net</A>&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>Sent: 1/14/2016 10:28:16 PM</DIV>
<DIV>Subject: [Shop-talk] winch for car trailer</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dx1f7c612c2a9d42bc96189b36984301e4>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite2 cite=3DAF6A773DA58E4F2C98A65C208E3D437D@EricJRuss=
ellPC type=3D"cite">
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I'd like to add a winch to my car trailer.=
 I use the car trailer to haul an MGA vintage race car. Hopefully I'll alwa=
ys be able to drive the car onto the trailer but it seems like a winch migh=
t be good insurance... </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I see low-priced units at Harbor Freight=
 &amp; Northern Tool and higher priced Warn units. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Two questions. 1) anyone have experience=
 with the HF or NT low priced winches? B) how much winch do I need? I see=
 them from "2500 lbs" to "9000 lbs". </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Eric Russell<BR>Mebane, NC</FONT></DIV></B=
LOCKQUOTE></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 15 01:18:30 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2016 00:23:12 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] winch for car trailer
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On 1/14/2016 7:28 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:
> I'd like to add a winch to my car trailer. I use the car trailer to haul
> an MGA vintage race car. Hopefully I'll always be able to drive the car
> onto the trailer but it seems like a winch might be good insurance...
> I see low-priced units at Harbor Freight & Northern Tool and higher
> priced Warn units.

I have a Harbor Freight "12000lb" winch on mine.   It's worked well. 
It's massive overkill, and I sometimes think about replacing the fat 
cable that's on the thing with something smaller and more flexible...

...but last (November?) I took the trailer down to pick up a non-running 
E30 325i (Lemons project) and the seller had lost the key, so the 
steering was locked at about half a turn to the right and the seller's 
driveway was on a hillside (and I hadn't known/realized that a Sawzall 
applied to the top of the steering column will deal with the locking pin 
on those.)

After we got it out of his driveway and fiddled around with trying to 
make it roll toward the trailer, the easiest way to get it on the 
trailer proved to be to have my partner in crime sit in the car and lock 
the brakes while I just thumbed the winch remote button to drag it up 
onto the trailer with the wheels locked.

It'd slide straight even if it wouldn't roll that way.

So at that point I was somewhat pleased I had way too much winch.

John.

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2016 13:06:33 -0500
 01/16/2016 13:06:26, Serialize complete at 01/16/2016 13:06:26
Subject: [Shop-talk] Preheating metal in an oven
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============0033334704374431500==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0066117485257F3C_=

Afternoon friends.

A quick question, when you are preheating metal items in your oven (for a 
cast iron weld) do you put it on bake or broil?

Thanks!

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0066117485257F3C_=


<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Afternoon friends.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">A quick question, when you are preheating
metal items in your oven (for a cast iron weld) do you put it on bake or
broil?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks!</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 0066117485257F3C_=--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0033334704374431500==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 16 11:37:23 2016
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To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFCA278CCE.3B42F013-ON85257F3C.00635E69-85257F3C.00661176@mail.megageek.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:42:33 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Preheating metal in an oven
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You want even heat so I would probably use bake, with convection if it's 
available.  It's gonna be tough eatin', though.

On 1/16/2016 10:06 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> Afternoon friends.
>
> A quick question, when you are preheating metal items in your oven 
> (for a cast iron weld) do you put it on bake or broil?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
>


--------------080202070801060301030700
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<html>
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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    You want even heat so I would probably use bake, with convection if
    it's available.  It's gonna be tough eatin', though.  <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/16/2016 10:06 AM,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:OFCA278CCE.3B42F013-ON85257F3C.00635E69-85257F3C.00661176@mail.megageek.com"
      type="cite">
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Afternoon friends.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">A quick question, when you are
        preheating
        metal items in your oven (for a cast iron weld) do you put it on
        bake or
        broil?</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Thanks!</font>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
        Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
        Eric P<br>
        "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
        rational
        being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
        Ralph
        Waldo Emerson </font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 09:39:08 2016
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 11:43:45 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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We get the occasional snow/ice storm here in NC. NC doesn't plow/sand =
much - they just wait for it to melt a day or two later. However, being =
an ER nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother Nature takes care of =
it. I have an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can usually get around =
with its "all season' tires. But when we get ice covered with snow it =
gets very difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed.=20

I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are available or =
allowed) *or* chains.=20
http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?f=
url=3D-c2-235%7C85~16=20

What say ye, learned shop-talkers?=20

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>We get the occasional snow/ice storm =
here in NC. NC=20
doesn't plow/sand much - they just wait for it to melt a day or two =
later.=20
However, being an ER nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother Nature =
takes=20
care of it. I have an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can =
usually&nbsp;get=20
around&nbsp;with its "all season' tires. But when we get ice covered =
with snow=20
it gets very difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I am considering either real snow tires =
(I doubt=20
studs are available or allowed) *or* chains. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial><A=20
href=3D"http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Du=
ty.htm?furl=3D-c2-235%7C85~16">http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F=
-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=3D-c2-235%7C85~16</A>&nbsp;</FONT></DI=
V>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>What say ye, learned shop-talkers? =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Eric Russell<BR>Mebane,=20
NC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:07:52 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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Eric,

 From what Dr. Google tells me, studded snow tires are allowed in 
North Carolina without restriction.  Snow tires will be better than 
all season tires, but a little rougher riding and a little 
noisier.  Probably not a big problem in a truck.  They will also wear 
out faster than all season tires.  Studs will improve performance on 
ice, but will be another step noisier and rougher.  Chains will be 
lots noisier and rougher, and only appropriate while roads are snow 
covered.  You will have to put them on and take them off for each 
storm.  Too bad your truck isn't four wheel drive.  My four wheel 
drive suburban gets me through anything here in NY.

-Steve

At 11:43 AM 1/19/2016, Eric J Russell wrote:
>We get the occasional snow/ice storm here in NC. NC doesn't 
>plow/sand much - they just wait for it to melt a day or two later. 
>However, being an ER nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother 
>Nature takes care of it. I have an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. 
>I can usually get around with its "all season' tires. But when we 
>get ice covered with snow it gets very difficult. I do keep a few 
>bags of sand in the bed.
>
>I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are available 
>or allowed) *or* chains.
><http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=-c2-235%7C85~16>http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=-c2-235%7C85~16 
>
>
>What say ye, learned shop-talkers?
>
>Eric Russell
>Mebane, NC

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<html>
<body>
Eric, <br><br>
 From what Dr. Google tells me, studded snow tires are allowed in North
Carolina without restriction.&nbsp; Snow tires will be better than all
season tires, but a little rougher riding and a little noisier.&nbsp;
Probably not a big problem in a truck.&nbsp; They will also wear out
faster than all season tires.&nbsp; Studs will improve performance on
ice, but will be another step noisier and rougher.&nbsp; Chains will be
lots noisier and rougher, and only appropriate while roads are snow
covered.&nbsp; You will have to put them on and take them off for each
storm.&nbsp; Too bad your truck isn't four wheel drive.&nbsp; My four
wheel drive suburban gets me through anything here in NY.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 11:43 AM 1/19/2016, Eric J Russell wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>We get the
occasional snow/ice storm here in NC. NC doesn't plow/sand much - they
just wait for it to melt a day or two later. However, being an ER nurse,
I have to drive in it before Mother Nature takes care of it. I have an
F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can usually get around with its
&quot;all season' tires. But when we get ice covered with snow it gets
very difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed. <br>
</font>&nbsp;<br>
<font size=2>I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are
available or allowed) *or* chains. <br>
<a href="http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=-c2-235%7C85~16">
http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=-c2-235%7C85~16</a>
 <br>
</font>&nbsp;<br>
<font size=2>What say ye, learned shop-talkers? <br>
</font>&nbsp;<br>
<font size=2>Eric Russell<br>
Mebane, NC</font></blockquote></body>
</html>

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Tirerack has a lot of good 
information:  http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/index.jsp.  They 
are also very helpful if you call them.

-Steve

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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> I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are 
> available or allowed) *or* chains. 

IMO chains are a lot more hassle.  As noted, you really should run them only when you are actually driving on snow, which can mean
removing and installing several times per season.  But at the same time, they are a lot more effective than snow tires even with
studs.

If I had to choose only one, and I had to get there in any kind of weather, I'd pick chains.  But if you routinely have to drive to
work on unplowed roads, IMO it's a false economy not to get snow tires *and* chains.  Leave the tires on for the season, and carry
the chains for when it gets really bad (like frozen rain topped with snow).

-- Randall  

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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:49:44 -0500
From: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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I'll start off by saying I have zero experience with chains, but lots with
snow :-)

For occasional use, I'd get cables, not chains. How much up/down hills do
you do?

If you decide on snows, get the tallest, narrowest ones you can fit. They
need to bite into the snow, so wide ones only make you float, esp. with
the relatively light rear end of a pickup.

jim

> We get the occasional snow/ice storm here in NC. NC doesn't plow/sand much
> - they just wait for it to melt a day or two later. However, being an ER
> nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother Nature takes care of it. I have
> an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can usually get around with its "all
> season' tires. But when we get ice covered with snow it gets very
> difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed.
>
> I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are available or
> allowed) *or* chains.
> http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=-c2-235%7C85~16
>
> What say ye, learned shop-talkers?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>
>


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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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I grew up driving the backroads of Michigan in a '50 Ford. Snow tires meant just that, they worked well in snow. Only chains worked well on ice but are a hassle. Nowadays, all seasons work very great with all wheel drive. I now spend some time in Oregon and occasionally go to the mountains. I have all wheel drive, but I'd never want to be caught on an icy slick mountain road without chains. Chains are pretty cheap. With my '96 F150 limited slip, a few 40 lb bags of salt in the back does pretty well. My thought would b to put lots of weight in the back and carry chains until your tires need replacing, then I'd buy snows. As I recall, the way snow tires work is the snow gets lodged in the grooves and the real traction is snow to snow. 
Brian K.



On Jan 19, 2016, at 9:31 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are 
>> available or allowed) *or* chains. 
> 
> IMO chains are a lot more hassle.  As noted, you really should run them only when you are actually driving on snow, which can mean
> removing and installing several times per season.  But at the same time, they are a lot more effective than snow tires even with
> studs.
> 
> If I had to choose only one, and I had to get there in any kind of weather, I'd pick chains.  But if you routinely have to drive to
> work on unplowed roads, IMO it's a false economy not to get snow tires *and* chains.  Leave the tires on for the season, and carry
> the chains for when it gets really bad (like frozen rain topped with snow).
> 
> -- Randall  
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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> How I look at it is that all you are doing is buying a second set of tires 
> early.

Thanks for all the replies. I was leaning toward some real snow tires. I'd 
only need them for 2-3 months at most. And even then, I don't (need to) 
drive the truck every day.

In the interest of full disclosure, I am a damn yankee - born & raised in 
Massachusetts - so I am used to driving in snow. But I did have real snow 
tires back then. I even had studded snow tires on my MGA when it was my only 
car/daily driver. In fact, I never got stuck driving the MGA in the winter. 
Not warm but not stuck either...

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 

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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 13:38:04 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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Tony,

I think it depends on where you live and how important it is that you 
be able to drive through anything.  I am retired now, so my 
requirements are different from critical hospital personnel.  In all 
the years I spent commuting here in NY, the thing that hindered 
travel the most was traffic.  Driving in a relatively hilly area with 
substantial traffic volume meant there was always someone who 
couldn't make it up a hill or bounced off a guard rail.  I always 
tried to stay off the highways.  When traffic stopped there, you 
could be stranded for hours.  On the secondary roads, you could at 
least turn around and try a different route.

-Steve

At 01:16 PM 1/19/2016, Tony Vaccaro wrote:
>As far as not using snows on a Suburban or in my case a Nissan 
>Pathfinder.  While the weight and the 4 wheel drive will get you out 
>of most everything, there is no difference on ice. It is still just 
>plain rubber on ice.
>
>I had a Suburban and now my Pathfinder. Driven both with and without 
>snows. The difference with and without snows is quite remarkable.
>
>I am not saying that you cannot get along with not using snows on 
>heavy 4 wheel drive vehicles, I have.  But the difference is quite amazing.
>
>My MINI S with snows was just amazing. I could zoom all over the 
>place. Pass snow plow equipped turcks, Drive on streets with 
>everyone else off the road in ditches.
>
>I honestly don't see why everyone does not get snows. Like I said, 
>all it is just getting your second set of tires early. Of course the 
>wheel cost is something to be considered but the damage done to my 
>wheels with salt makes that also worthwhile.
>
>The insurance companies should give a discount to those that have 
>snows on their cars.
>
>Tony V

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<html>
<body>
Tony, <br><br>
I think it depends on where you live and how important it is that you be
able to drive through anything.&nbsp; I am retired now, so my
requirements are different from critical hospital personnel.&nbsp; In all
the years I spent commuting here in NY, the thing that hindered travel
the most was traffic.&nbsp; Driving in a relatively hilly area with
substantial traffic volume meant there was always someone who couldn't
make it up a hill or bounced off a guard rail.&nbsp; I always tried to
stay off the highways.&nbsp; When traffic stopped there, you could be
stranded for hours.&nbsp; On the secondary roads, you could at least turn
around and try a different route.&nbsp; <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 01:16 PM 1/19/2016, Tony Vaccaro wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><b>As far as not using snows on
a Suburban or in my case a Nissan Pathfinder.&nbsp; While the weight and
the 4 wheel drive will get you out of most everything, there is no
difference on ice. It is still just plain rubber on ice. <br>
&nbsp;<br>
I had a Suburban and now my Pathfinder. Driven both with and without
snows. The difference with and without snows is quite remarkable.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
I am not saying that you cannot get along with not using snows on heavy 4
wheel drive vehicles, I have.&nbsp; But the difference is quite
amazing.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
My MINI S with snows was just amazing. I could zoom all over the place.
Pass snow plow equipped turcks, Drive on streets with everyone else off
the road in ditches. <br>
&nbsp;<br>
I honestly don’t see why everyone does not get snows. Like I said, all it
is just getting your second set of tires early. Of course the wheel cost
is something to be considered but the damage done to my wheels with salt
makes that also worthwhile.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
The insurance companies should give a discount to those that have snows
on their cars.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Tony V</b></blockquote></body>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 12:00:47 2016
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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 14:03:54 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <1C.CC.11985.3F27E965@cdptpa-oedge01>
 <F0B90D5B-A5F6-417B-9819-0FDEF4A83FBD@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 19 Jan 2016, Brian Kennedy wrote:
> With my '96 F150 limited slip, a few 40 lb bags of salt in the back 
> does pretty well. My thought would b to put lots of weight in the back 
> and carry chains until your tires need replacing, then I'd buy snows. 
> As I recall, the way snow tires work is the snow gets lodged in the 
> grooves and the real traction is snow to snow.

    [obligatory-resume]Since 1998, I've spent almost every winter racing 
mid-engined RWD cars on frozen lakes in Michigan and Wisconsin, whenever 
those lakes are hard enough -- over 300 races.  I've tried or raced 
against virtually every snow tire made, and built a few sets of studded 
tires for racing purposes.  Since I don't live in Michigan or Wisconsin, 
that means I've also got tens of thousands of miles towing my trailers 
and racecars out to the middle of nowhere in the dead of winter.
[/obligatory-resume]

    First off, the last sentence above is not right.  There can be some 
grip from packed snow, but that's not how they are designed to work.  Snow 
tires actually work the same way as all other tires: the rubber deforms 
into microscopic imperfections in the road surface ( or whatever they are 
rolling on ) and that interface provides traction.  The increased void 
ratio of off-road tires is there to give loose material ( snow, mud, etc ) 
somewhere to go, so it doesn't get trapped between the rubber and the road 
( and interfere with the process above ).

    The best snow tires use rubber compounds that stay pliable down to 
sub-zero temperatures, so they can still mate with surface imperfections. 
I have some custom-made racing snows on which you can manually twist the 
tread blocks at 10 below.  They probably wouldn't last 200 miles on a dry 
road, but that rubber is soft enough to grip imperfections in glare ice. 
Ironically, they are made in North Carolina!  Also, modern snow tires 
have a 'traction material' molded into the rubber -- recycled industrial 
diamonds are a common choice, but there are a few others.  This obviously 
increases bite on real ice.  For this reason, the old logic about 
super-narrow snows is no longer important.  I have run everything from 
165s to 225s on my little car, and wider is faster/better in some 
conditions (not all).

    Second, weight is a mixed bag.  It will help sometimes, and hurt 
sometimes.  Many of the guys I race with are huge believers in adding 
ballast.  My car is always by far the smallest and lightest in my class -- 
to the point where some guys have run as much __ballast__ as my cars 
weighs ( ~1 ton ) -- but still one of the fastest.  TANSTAAFL, however, 
and while you have more traction as a result, you __need__ a lot more to 
go/stop/turn.  Appropriate tires are a much better choice.  The only time 
the heaviest cars win is when we have a half-frozen, slushy mix several 
inches deep.  On dry snow, they have no chance.  On smooth ice, they also 
lose.

    I am not a fan of chains, or street-legal studs.  Metal doesn't work 
well with pavement, and neither bite into ice well.  1mm studs in snow 
are near useless.  I don't think either are superior to top-notch snow 
tires -- basically, Blizzaks, Nokians, and a couple others.  I can 
literally talk snow tires all day, and at the moment, I own at least four 
sets.  For all of my street cars ( which were sometimes also racecars ) I 
would pick up a spare set of wheels, and mount up the best snows I could 
find, and I would go anywhere in any conditions.  Everytime we get a big 
snow, I go out and drive around in it for hours for fun.

    I am positive that if Eric picks up some quality snows for his truck, 
he'll be just fine, and very happy.

    I'm trying to keep this as short as possible, but if we want to talk 
specific tire models, I'm game.  It does make a huge difference... for 
example, with Blizzak LM series and WS.  The former are just barely 
better than all-seasons, the latter are the ones you want from that brand.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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References: <A407EF673E214842BE8C91C7F011ADA7@EricJRussellPC>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 14:34:08 -0500
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5293910646823881048==

--001a114a9ad0089b010529b4f4b0

Howdy,

Snow tires.

Mark

On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 11:43 AM, Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
wrote:

> We get the occasional snow/ice storm here in NC. NC doesn't plow/sand much
> - they just wait for it to melt a day or two later. However, being an ER
> nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother Nature takes care of it. I have
> an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can usually get around with its "all
> season' tires. But when we get ice covered with snow it gets very
> difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed.
>
> I am considering either real snow tires (I doubt studs are available or
> allowed) *or* chains.
>
> http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=-c2-235%7C85~16
>
>
> What say ye, learned shop-talkers?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com
>
>
>

--001a114a9ad0089b010529b4f4b0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Howdy,<div><br></div><div>Snow tires.</div><div><br></div>=
<div>Mark</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quo=
te">On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 11:43 AM, Eric J Russell <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:ejrussell@mebtel.net" target=3D"_blank">ejrussell@mebtel.=
net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>





<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">We get the occasional snow/ice storm h=
ere in NC. NC=20
doesn&#39;t plow/sand much - they just wait for it to melt a day or two lat=
er.=20
However, being an ER nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother Nature take=
s=20
care of it. I have an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can usually=C2=A0g=
et=20
around=C2=A0with its &quot;all season&#39; tires. But when we get ice cover=
ed with snow=20
it gets very difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed. </font></d=
iv>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">I am considering either real snow tire=
s (I doubt=20
studs are available or allowed) *or* chains. </font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><a href=3D"http://www.etrailer.com/cha=
ins-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty.htm?furl=3D-c2-235%7C85~16" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.etrailer.com/chains-1999_Ford_F-250+and+F-350+Super+=
Duty.htm?furl=3D-c2-235%7C85~16</a>=C2=A0</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">What say ye, learned shop-talkers? </f=
ont></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">Eric Russell<br>Mebane,=20
NC</font></div></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br=
>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
alk/marka@maracing.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 14:17:35 -0600
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6802955199961161737==

--001a113d2424ce0d270529b591b2

Doing this again:

Setting up the garage here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but
most will stay at home. I'm buying everything from scratch.

So..."industrial" vs. "automotive"? I think I remember that one was
accepted as better than another, but I don't remember why, and I think the
differences were slight.

Let's tear the top off this can of worms again. Which should I tool up for?

--001a113d2424ce0d270529b591b2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Doing this again:<div><br></div><div>Setting up the garage=
 here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but most will stay at home.=
 I&#39;m buying everything from scratch.</div><div><br></div><div>So...&quo=
t;industrial&quot; vs. &quot;automotive&quot;? I think I remember that one =
was accepted as better than another, but I don&#39;t remember why, and I th=
ink the differences were slight.</div><div><br></div><div>Let&#39;s tear th=
e top off this can of worms again. Which should I tool up for?</div></div>

--001a113d2424ce0d270529b591b2--

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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 12:32:43 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.5.1
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/19/2016 12:17 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
> Doing this again:
>
> Setting up the garage here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but
> most will stay at home. I'm buying everything from scratch.
>
> So..."industrial" vs. "automotive"? I think I remember that one was
> accepted as better than another, but I don't remember why, and I think the
> differences were slight.

I think it's mostly "what you grabbed when you first plumbed it"

I've got the big T-plug fittings.

John.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 <569E9D6B.90602@milleredp.com>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 14:44:18 -0600
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4335942405318259685==

--047d7bd6c5124f4f9b0529b5f13d

Yeah, I always had "automotive" plugs at home because that's what I had. I
just remember reading a debate somewhere and there was finally a
consensus...I just don't remember what it was.

On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 2:32 PM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:

> On 1/19/2016 12:17 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
>
>> Doing this again:
>>
>> Setting up the garage here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but
>> most will stay at home. I'm buying everything from scratch.
>>
>> So..."industrial" vs. "automotive"? I think I remember that one was
>> accepted as better than another, but I don't remember why, and I think the
>> differences were slight.
>>
>
> I think it's mostly "what you grabbed when you first plumbed it"
>
> I've got the big T-plug fittings.
>
> John.
>

--047d7bd6c5124f4f9b0529b5f13d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Yeah, I always had &quot;automotive&quot; plugs at home be=
cause that&#39;s what I had. I just remember reading a debate somewhere and=
 there was finally a consensus...I just don&#39;t remember what it was.<br>=
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 19, 2=
016 at 2:32 PM, John Miller <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jem@mil=
leredp.com" target=3D"_blank">jem@milleredp.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><b=
lockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px =
#ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><span class=3D"">On 1/19/2016 12:17 PM, Scott =
Hall wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Doing this again:<br>
<br>
Setting up the garage here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but<br=
>
most will stay at home. I&#39;m buying everything from scratch.<br>
<br>
So...&quot;industrial&quot; vs. &quot;automotive&quot;? I think I remember =
that one was<br>
accepted as better than another, but I don&#39;t remember why, and I think =
the<br>
differences were slight.<br>
</blockquote>
<br></span>
I think it&#39;s mostly &quot;what you grabbed when you first plumbed it&qu=
ot;<br>
<br>
I&#39;ve got the big T-plug fittings.<br>
<br>
John.<br></blockquote></div></div></div>

--047d7bd6c5124f4f9b0529b5f13d--

--===============4335942405318259685==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4335942405318259685==--

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 <CAK73_u7n8bqXgO0NS6KPQyRVX0BtHwGdn6qE2w3-R00LfzGY_A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 16:42:39 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6603175252325595252==

--047d7bf0c6b6aa7e070529b6bf17

I used to use the "industrial" style, but then I threw them all out and
replaced them with the Milton high-flow "V" style.
The V female fittings are compatible with the common automotive style male
fittings, so I have a few of those on
my lesser-used tools.

The Milton V fittings are very reliable and leak-free, especially compared
to the common cheapo automotive and industrial fittings.

On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Yeah, I always had "automotive" plugs at home because that's what I had. I
> just remember reading a debate somewhere and there was finally a
> consensus...I just don't remember what it was.
>
>

--047d7bf0c6b6aa7e070529b6bf17
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><div>I used to use the &quot;industrial&quot; st=
yle, but then I threw them all out and replaced them with the Milton high-f=
low &quot;V&quot; style.<br></div>The V female fittings are compatible with=
 the common automotive style male fittings, so I have a few of those on<br>=
</div>my lesser-used tools.<br><br></div>The
 Milton V fittings are very reliable and leak-free, especially compared=20
to the common cheapo automotive and industrial fittings.<div class=3D"gmail=
_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Sco=
tt Hall <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.c=
om" target=3D"_blank">scott.hall.personal@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<b=
r><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:=
1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Yeah, I always had &quot;=
automotive&quot; plugs at home because that&#39;s what I had. I just rememb=
er reading a debate somewhere and there was finally a consensus...I just do=
n&#39;t remember what it was.<span class=3D""><br><div class=3D"gmail_extra=
"><br></div></span></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div>

--047d7bf0c6b6aa7e070529b6bf17--

--===============6603175252325595252==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============6603175252325595252==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 14:47:03 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 16:23:30 -0500
 01/19/2016 16:23:31, Serialize complete at 01/19/2016 16:23:31
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============2862697665788518853==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0078030285257F3F_=

Eric,

I actually have these chains (well, the duallie model) for a 3500 GMC 
mason dump that I use for fire wood delivery.  With the duallie, I can't 
find a 4x4 (or is it 6x6 in a duallie?).  It's great when I have the wood 
in the back, but once I deliver it, the bed is empty.  So I get almost no 
traction, and, of course I can't put sand or weights in the back because 
it will be too heavy when I have the wood.

They are a little bit of a hassle to put on and off, but you will not get 
stuck.

I would trade chains for 4x4 anyday.  But chains will get the truck where 
you want to go safety (albeit SLOWLY!)

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0078030285257F3F_=


<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Eric,</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I actually have these chains (well,
the duallie model) for a 3500 GMC mason dump that I use for fire wood delivery.
&nbsp;With the duallie, I can't find a 4x4 (or is it 6x6 in a duallie?).
&nbsp;It's great when I have the wood in the back, but once I deliver it,
the bed is empty. &nbsp;So I get almost no traction, and, of course I can't
put sand or weights in the back because it will be too heavy when I have
the wood.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">They are a little bit of a hassle to
put on and off, but you will not get stuck.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I would trade chains for 4x4 anyday.
&nbsp;But chains will get the truck where you want to go safety (albeit
SLOWLY!)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 0078030285257F3F_=--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============2862697665788518853==--

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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 22:09:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
References: <CAK73_u5E4MLLh_UVyWEmLBmArbXJ6PX8d1Z6QwwHjEMzohDpzg@mail.gmail.com>
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Thread-Topic: Air line adapters
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Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5176450085060864053==
	boundary="----=_Part_8078271_385282569.1453241385014"

------=_Part_8078271_385282569.1453241385014
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

FWIW, industrial seems to be the de facto 'standard.' I just checked, and Harbor Freight no longer carries the automotive styl (if that matters). 

On another note, the cheap (HF) automotive connectors I have seem to leak; do the industrial or non-HF ones hold air? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> 
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 12:44:18 PM 
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters 

Yeah, I always had "automotive" plugs at home because that's what I had. I just remember reading a debate somewhere and there was finally a consensus...I just don't remember what it was. 

On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 2:32 PM, John Miller < jem@milleredp.com > wrote: 


On 1/19/2016 12:17 PM, Scott Hall wrote: 

<blockquote>
Doing this again: 

Setting up the garage here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but 
most will stay at home. I'm buying everything from scratch. 

So..."industrial" vs. "automotive"? I think I remember that one was 
accepted as better than another, but I don't remember why, and I think the 
differences were slight. 


I think it's mostly "what you grabbed when you first plumbed it" 

I've got the big T-plug fittings. 

John. 

</blockquote>





------=_Part_8078271_385282569.1453241385014
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">FWIW, industrial seems to be the de fa=
cto 'standard.'&nbsp;&nbsp; I just checked, and Harbor Freight no longer ca=
rries the automotive styl (if that matters).<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Co=
mpose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">On another note, the=
 cheap (HF) automotive connectors I have seem to leak; do the industrial or=
 non-HF ones hold air?<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div>=
<div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Bob<br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwch=
r"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decor=
ation:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce=
-style=3D"color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decora=
tion: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>F=
rom: </b>"Scott Hall" &lt;scott.hall.personal@gmail.com&gt;<br><b>To: </b>S=
hop-talk@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, January 19, 2016 12:44:18 =
PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters<br><div><br></div><=
div dir=3D"ltr">Yeah, I always had "automotive" plugs at home because that'=
s what I had. I just remember reading a debate somewhere and there was fina=
lly a consensus...I just don't remember what it was.<br><div class=3D"gmail=
_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 2:32 PM, Joh=
n Miller <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jem@milleredp.com" target=
=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:jem@milleredp.com">jem@milleredp.com</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 =
0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex" data-mce-style=3D"mar=
gin: 0 0 0 .8ex; border-left: 1px #ccc solid; padding-left: 1ex;"><span cla=
ss=3D""><span class=3D"">On 1/19/2016 12:17 PM, Scott Hall wrote:<br></span=
></span><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex" data-mce-style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 .8ex=
; border-left: 1px #ccc solid; padding-left: 1ex;">Doing this again:<br> <b=
r> Setting up the garage here. I might bring some of the tools up here, but=
<br> most will stay at home. I'm buying everything from scratch.<br> <br> S=
o..."industrial" vs. "automotive"? I think I remember that one was<br> acce=
pted as better than another, but I don't remember why, and I think the<br> =
differences were slight.<br></blockquote> I think it's mostly "what you gra=
bbed when you first plumbed it"<br> <br> I've got the big T-plug fittings.<=
br> <br> John.<br></blockquote></div></div></div><br><div><br></div></div><=
div><br></div></div></body></html>
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 Tue, 19 Jan 2016 14:14:28 -0800 (PST)
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References: <CAK73_u5E4MLLh_UVyWEmLBmArbXJ6PX8d1Z6QwwHjEMzohDpzg@mail.gmail.com>
 <569E9D6B.90602@milleredp.com>
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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 17:14:28 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3145516844039806415==

--001a11c28308705f090529b73104

Oops, I got "automotive" and "industrial" mixed up!  Let me correct myself:

I used to use the "automotive" style, but then I threw them all out and
replaced them with the Milton high-flow "V" style.
The V female fittings are compatible with the common industrial style male
fittings (the pointy-er style), so I have a few of those on
my lesser-used tools.



On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 4:42 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> I used to use the "industrial" style, but then I threw them all out and
> replaced them with the Milton high-flow "V" style.
> The V female fittings are compatible with the common automotive style male
> fittings, so I have a few of those on
> my lesser-used tools.
>
> The Milton V fittings are very reliable and leak-free, especially compared
> to the common cheapo automotive and industrial fittings.
>
>

--001a11c28308705f090529b73104
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Oops, I got &quot;automotive&quot; and &quot;industrial&qu=
ot; mixed up!=C2=A0 Let me correct myself:<br><br><span class=3D""><div><di=
v>I used to use the &quot;automotive&quot; style, but then I threw them all=
 out and replaced them with the Milton high-flow &quot;V&quot; style.<br></=
div>The V female fittings are compatible with the common industrial style m=
ale fittings (the pointy-er style), so I have a few of those on<br></div>my=
 lesser-used tools.<br><br></span><br><div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 4:42 PM, Doug Braun <span=
 dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:doug@dougbraun.com" target=3D"_blank">do=
ug@dougbraun.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
 style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);p=
adding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span class=3D""><div><div><div>I used to=
 use the &quot;industrial&quot; style, but then I threw them all out and re=
placed them with the Milton high-flow &quot;V&quot; style.<br></div>The V f=
emale fittings are compatible with the common automotive style male fitting=
s, so I have a few of those on<br></div>my lesser-used tools.<br><br></div>=
The
 Milton V fittings are very reliable and leak-free, especially compared=20
to the common cheapo automotive and industrial fittings.</span><div class=
=3D"gmail_extra"><br></div></div>
</blockquote></div><br></div></div></div>

--001a11c28308705f090529b73104--

--===============3145516844039806415==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3145516844039806415==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 18:11:44 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 17:16:39 -0800
Thread-Index: AdFTIDa9IBQ8JFyqSGKNzKo/iOuXsw==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


> On another note, the cheap (HF) automotive connectors I have 
> seem to leak; do the industrial or non-HF ones hold air?

Is "automotive" the same thing as "Tru-Flate" ?
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#6534kac/=10r8eum

I was set up with all industrial type, from what I thought was a good source (not HF).  After a few years of only occasional
service, they all leaked enough to be annoying.  So I switched to the "Tru-Flate" style from MMC about 10 years ago now, and I've
been happy with them.  One or two of the female couplers had a problem, but disassembling and cleaning the seal fixed the leak.

RANDALL

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 19:08:04 2016
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
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I plumbed my garage with M style. Mike Bailey, who retired last year and 
moved to Oregon plumbed Bailey's Automotive with I type. On those 
occasions when I worked there I had a hose with male I and female M with 
me if I wanted to use one of my tools in his air lines.

mjb.


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 19:48:18 2016
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm pretty sure I have told this before, but I'll once again incriminate 
myself.

Back in the days of homebrewing, some quick connect brass garden hose 
fittings came
on the market. Just like the air line fittings, I got a bunch for the 
brew room, thinking it
will make hooking up the bottle washer, the chiller and the spray nozzle 
easy as can be.

Well, not quite like the air line fittings, which can be disconnected 
while under pressure.

mjb.


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 19 19:54:53 2016
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <780941478.8078272.1453241385015.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <44.39.17146.2FFDE965@cdptpa-oedge03>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 18:57:58 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
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I have several connectors and made short gender/style changing connectors to
keep from having to replace multiple fittings and for borrowed tools.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 5:17 PM
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters


> On another note, the cheap (HF) automotive connectors I have seem to 
> leak; do the industrial or non-HF ones hold air?

Is "automotive" the same thing as "Tru-Flate" ?
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#6534kac/=10r8eum

I was set up with all industrial type, from what I thought was a good source
(not HF).  After a few years of only occasional service, they all leaked
enough to be annoying.  So I switched to the "Tru-Flate" style from MMC
about 10 years ago now, and I've been happy with them.  One or two of the
female couplers had a problem, but disassembling and cleaning the seal fixed
the leak.

RANDALL

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 22:04:54 -0800
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> Not warm but not stuck either...

Same here, except it was a TR3 and I used the tire chains from a defunct garden tractor on regular street tires.

Randall

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 please include it with any abuse report
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
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  I use exclusively Milton t-Style, switched to them decades ago. But I 
admit the only reason I did was that a auto body guy I knew quite well 
was retiring and gave me some air tools of his and that is what they had 
on them, since I had only one air tool and he gave me quite a few it 
made sense to switch and also that way I could go into the shop and use 
my tools in the shop when I needed a few extra dollars after school.

  I have never had any leak EXCEPT the Harbor Fright ones

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mli-s-783?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA_fy0BRCwiLaQ5-iFgpwBEiQA884sOe17iJQf44KwK2O1boD1s5Kjp0yvotWz6y6rxk9_TXsaAoAj8P8HAQ

   Mike
On 1/19/2016 5:16 PM, Randall wrote:
>> On another note, the cheap (HF) automotive connectors I have
>> seem to leak; do the industrial or non-HF ones hold air?
> Is "automotive" the same thing as "Tru-Flate" ?
> http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#6534kac/=10r8eum
>
> I was set up with all industrial type, from what I thought was a good source (not HF).  After a few years of only occasional
> service, they all leaked enough to be annoying.  So I switched to the "Tru-Flate" style from MMC about 10 years ago now, and I've
> been happy with them.  One or two of the female couplers had a problem, but disassembling and cleaning the seal fixed the leak.
>
> RANDALL
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>


-- 
A gun is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have it,
you'll probably never need one again.

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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 15:49:54 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <44.39.17146.2FFDE965@cdptpa-oedge03>
Thread-Topic: Air line adapters
Thread-Index: AdFTIDa9IBQ8JFyqSGKNzKo/iOuXs1WCoWxc
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Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4991950627954086707==
	boundary="----=_Part_8499837_411588334.1453304994511"

------=_Part_8499837_411588334.1453304994511
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

They appear similar. 

----- Original Message -----




> On another note, the cheap (HF) automotive connectors I have 
> seem to leak; do the industrial or non-HF ones hold air? 

Is "automotive" the same thing as "Tru-Flate" ? 
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#6534kac/=10r8eum 

I was set up with all industrial type, from what I thought was a good source (not HF). After a few years of only occasional 
service, they all leaked enough to be annoying. So I switched to the "Tru-Flate" style from MMC about 10 years ago now, and I've 
been happy with them. One or two of the female couplers had a problem, but disassembling and cleaning the seal fixed the leak. 

RANDALL 




------=_Part_8499837_411588334.1453304994511
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">They appear similar.<br></div><div><br=
></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-st=
yle:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style=
: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; f=
ont-size: 12pt;"><br><div><br></div><br>&gt; On another note, the cheap (HF=
) automotive connectors I have <br>&gt; seem to leak; do the industrial or =
non-HF ones hold air?<br><div><br></div>Is "automotive" the same thing as "=
Tru-Flate" ?<br>http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=3Dtrue#6534kac/=3D10r8eum<br><di=
v><br></div>I was set up with all industrial type, from what I thought was =
a good source (not HF). &nbsp;After a few years of only occasional<br>servi=
ce, they all leaked enough to be annoying. &nbsp;So I switched to the "Tru-=
Flate" style from MMC about 10 years ago now, and I've<br>been happy with t=
hem. &nbsp;One or two of the female couplers had a problem, but disassembli=
ng and cleaning the seal fixed the leak.<br><div><br></div>RANDALL<br><br><=
div><br></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
------=_Part_8499837_411588334.1453304994511--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 20 08:57:45 2016
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To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>, 
 shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Bob Kegel <bobkegel@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 08:02:41 -0800
Importance: normal
References: <A407EF673E214842BE8C91C7F011ADA7@EricJRussellPC>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3224946330579947048==
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Best snow tire I=E2=80=99ve found is the Nokian=C2=A0Hakkapeliitta, made in=
 Finland. My son would borrow them, and the AWD Aerostar they were mounted =
on, when he worked as a ski instructor.  Nothing stopped then, he says.

Bob K



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rgin-bottom:3.0pt;margin-left:0in;mso-line-height-alt:12.0pt;background:whi=
te'>Best snow tire I=E2=80=99ve found is the Nokian&nbsp;Hakkapeliitta, mad=
e in Finland. My son would borrow them, and the AWD Aerostar they were moun=
ted on, when he worked as a ski instructor.=C2=A0 Nothing stopped then, he =
says.<o:p></o:p></h1><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DM=
soNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Bob K=
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3224946330579947048==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 20 09:44:55 2016
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <44.39.17146.2FFDE965@cdptpa-oedge03>
 <569FAC33.8000404@dinospider.com>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 08:49:40 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air line adapters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/20/2016 7:48 AM, Mike Rambour wrote:
>
> I use exclusively Milton t-Style,

Yeah, the T-style is the Tru-Flate, I use the 3/8in Tru-Flate exclusively.

As far as leakage goes, my one lesson has been this: when I plumbed the 
garage for air a decade or so ago, I pointed all the quick-connect 
couplers down.

Bad idea.

Even with a fair amount of attention to drainage, and even with brass 
quick-connects, you still get just enough moisture in the lines to cause 
a little buildup and corrosion, and they'll end up sticky and leak-prone 
over time.

Keep them at least horizontal, try to use them all regularly, squirt a 
little WD-40 or something in there periodically when you do.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 20 09:51:52 2016
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References: <A407EF673E214842BE8C91C7F011ADA7@EricJRussellPC>
 <20160120155746.975AD2586154@autox.team.net>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 10:54:11 -0600
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3703031157503390068==

--047d7bd6c5123333fe0529c6d812

I've got a stupid question: when do you use snow tires?

For example, it snowed six inches or so here last night, and I know I'd
like some snow tires right now since the roads are still covered with snow
and slush and only a few bare patches of pavement. By tonight, though,
everything will have been plowed repeatedly and driven over such that the
only snow I'll drive over will be a few patches in our parking lot before
they melt by the end of this week.

So...what do you do when you're only driving over actual 'snow' a few times
a year? Do you still put on snow tires and leave them on until spring?
It'll be cold here until early March, but I'll only drive on actual snow a
few minutes per year. The rest of the time there will be paved roads.

I'd ignore the whole issue, but even on my .8 mile commute home last night
I got sideways at every intersection and the traction control and stability
control were going crazy. And I never got over 20 m.p.h. It was a
TREMENDIOUS amount of fun (it was 11:00 p.m. and I was the only one out)
but there was really no question of going anywhere except home and then
staying there. If I'd had to have driven somewhere, well, that would have
been bad.

--047d7bd6c5123333fe0529c6d812
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;ve got a stupid question: when do you use snow tires=
?<div><br></div><div>For example, it snowed six inches or so here last nigh=
t, and I know I&#39;d like some snow tires right now since the roads are st=
ill covered with snow and slush and only a few bare patches of pavement. By=
 tonight, though, everything will have been plowed repeatedly and driven ov=
er such that the only snow I&#39;ll drive over will be a few patches in our=
 parking lot before they melt by the end of this week.</div><div><br></div>=
<div>So...what do you do when you&#39;re only driving over actual &#39;snow=
&#39; a few times a year? Do you still put on snow tires and leave them on =
until spring? It&#39;ll be cold here until early March, but I&#39;ll only d=
rive on actual snow a few minutes per year. The rest of the time there will=
 be paved roads.</div><div><br></div><div>I&#39;d ignore the whole issue, b=
ut even on my .8 mile commute home last night I got sideways at every inter=
section and the traction control and stability control were going crazy. An=
d I never got over 20 m.p.h. It was a TREMENDIOUS amount of fun (it was 11:=
00 p.m. and I was the only one out) but there was really no question of goi=
ng anywhere except home and then staying there. If I&#39;d had to have driv=
en somewhere, well, that would have been bad.</div></div>

--047d7bd6c5123333fe0529c6d812--

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 20 10:37:05 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 12:11:12 -0500
 01/20/2016 12:11:14, Serialize complete at 01/20/2016 12:11:14
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============4182860740285731062==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 006100B885257F40_=

Scott asks about actual use of chains.

Normally, what I do is just have them in the truck and put them on if I 
need them.  Sometimes, I might just get stuck in a small patch of ice.  I 
can just throw the chains down and drive over them, then I pick them back 
up.

If the road are bad, I can put them on before I leave.  but I take them 
off once the roads are somewhat clear.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 006100B885257F40_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Scott asks about actual use of chains.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Normally, what I do is just have them
in the truck and put them on if I need them. &nbsp;Sometimes, I might just
get stuck in a small patch of ice. &nbsp;I can just throw the chains down
and drive over them, then I pick them back up.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">If the road are bad, I can put them
on before I leave. &nbsp;but I take them off once the roads are somewhat
clear.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 006100B885257F40_=--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============4182860740285731062==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 20 10:43:36 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 09:48:37 -0800
Thread-Index: AdFTo50L62Vw3vglQK2XMUg0QiHVHgABnY5A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> So...what do you do when you're only driving over actual 
> 'snow' a few times a year? Do you still put on snow tires and 
> leave them on until spring? 

I just drive on it; with a set of chains in the trunk.  Turn off the traction and stability control; and learn to drive with only 2%
of normal traction.  It can be done.

Of course, now I live where it never snows; but "back in the day", I would routinely go out driving even when the state declared
martial law and didn't even try to plow the roads.

-- Randall  

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 20 11:15:05 2016
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Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 13:19:59 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A407EF673E214842BE8C91C7F011ADA7@EricJRussellPC>
 <20160120155746.975AD2586154@autox.team.net>
 <CAK73_u6LTmTWAPB4Dx7bAD8=2UpcL3VSzsLzJRzfxKnpdn3uHQ@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, 20 Jan 2016, Scott Hall wrote:
> So...what do you do when you're only driving over actual 'snow' a few times
> a year? Do you still put on snow tires and leave them on until spring?
> It'll be cold here until early March, but I'll only drive on actual snow a
> few minutes per year. The rest of the time there will be paved roads.
>
> I'd ignore the whole issue, but even on my .8 mile commute home last night
> I got sideways at every intersection and the traction control and stability
> control were going crazy. And I never got over 20 m.p.h. It was a
> TREMENDIOUS amount of fun (it was 11:00 p.m. and I was the only one out)
> but there was really no question of going anywhere except home and then
> staying there. If I'd had to have driven somewhere, well, that would have
> been bad.

    This is basically the biggest single advantage of rubber snow tires 
over chains or studs.  You can just put them on when the first snowfall is 
forecast, and take them off a few months later.  They will be just fine as 
everyday tires.  Yes, they will wear, but unless you drive a ton of miles, 
that won't matter.  You're going to want to replace them after four or 
five winters anyway, as by that time the rubber will be aged and hardening 
up.  Even if it's cold and dry, snow tires -- with their soft compound -- 
will probably have more grip than your all-seasons anyway.

    As long as you can find room to store an extra set of tires -- 
preferably cool and dry, there's really no downside.  You can now buy 
better summer tires instead of all-seasons -- which are really just tires 
that suck all year long -- and if you care about the wheels on your car, 
you can keep them out of the salt over the winter.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 15:45:12 -0500
User-Agent: KMail/4.14.10 (Linux/4.1.13-5-default; KDE/4.14.10; x86_64; ; )
References: <A407EF673E214842BE8C91C7F011ADA7@EricJRussellPC>
 <20160120155746.975AD2586154@autox.team.net>
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 please include it with any abuse report
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I live in Canada (London, Ontario). Somewhat cold in the winter (certainly not as cold as as Winnipeg) but very snowy. I drive with winter tires on all my winter cars and it makes a huge difference. Since I have been using snow tires, I can't recall ever getting stuck anywhere, even when we got almost 40 inches of snow over a 48-hour period a couple of years ago.

For years now, the tire dealers here have avoided the term "snow tire" and have instead referred to them as "winter tires", because it's not the snow but the cold that affects tires the most (although obviously snow and cold go mostly hand-in-hand). The reasoning is this: when a summer or all-season tire gets cold, its rubber compound gets hard and loses the ability to grip the road surface. The magic temperature at which this starts happening has been marketed as 7 degrees C (about 45 degrees F). The rubber in winter tires is manufactured to stay soft, and therefore grippy, at much lower temperatures than summer/all-season (marketed here as 3-season) tires. So, even on dry pavement, non-winter tires will provide poor traction at -10 or -20 degrees; add slush, snow or ice to that and you have no hope of controlling your vehicle.

I usually change over to winter wheels & tires when the average daily temperature gets around 5 degrees C (about 40 degrees F) for any length of time. I don't switch wheels/tires back to regular tires until it warms up in the spring, even if the temperature warms up for a while or I drive somewhere warmer; yes, winter tires wear faster in warmer weather, but I'm not about to change wheels/tires every couple of weeks.

So remember, it's not the snow, it's the cold!

John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada

On January 20, 2016 10:54:11 AM Scott Hall wrote:
> I've got a stupid question: when do you use snow tires?
> 
> For example, it snowed six inches or so here last night, and I know I'd
> like some snow tires right now since the roads are still covered with snow
> and slush and only a few bare patches of pavement. By tonight, though,
> everything will have been plowed repeatedly and driven over such that the
> only snow I'll drive over will be a few patches in our parking lot before
> they melt by the end of this week.
> 
> So...what do you do when you're only driving over actual 'snow' a few times
> a year? Do you still put on snow tires and leave them on until spring?
> It'll be cold here until early March, but I'll only drive on actual snow a
> few minutes per year. The rest of the time there will be paved roads.
> 
> I'd ignore the whole issue, but even on my .8 mile commute home last night
> I got sideways at every intersection and the traction control and stability
> control were going crazy. And I never got over 20 m.p.h. It was a
> TREMENDIOUS amount of fun (it was 11:00 p.m. and I was the only one out)
> but there was really no question of going anywhere except home and then
> staying there. If I'd had to have driven somewhere, well, that would have
> been bad.

_______________________________________________

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.3565.1453228470.20076.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2016 19:18:53 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Personally I found that I was a far worse driver with LSD.  Even a bit 
of mescaline was enough to mess up any commute.

That said, I'd recommend getting a set of snow tires for the winter, 
mount them on a spare set of rims (junkyard visit time), and put them on 
when weather approaches and keep them on till final thaw.
I grew up with snow and now live where I have to choose to drive to it 
(Northern California).  As most folks here have little to no everyday 
(or ever) experience with snow there is mandatory chain use when there 
is snow or ice.  They are a pain, but do the job of at least slowing 
people way down.

Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com

On 1/19/2016 10:34 AM, shop-talk-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Subject: [Shop-talk] chains vs snow tires
> "
>
> We get the occasional snow/ice storm here in NC. NC doesn't plow/sand much - they just wait for it to melt a day or two later. However, being an ER nurse, I have to drive in it before Mother Nature takes care of it. I have an F250, rear wheel drive with LSD. I can usually get around with its "all season' tires. But when we get ice covered with snow it gets very difficult. I do keep a few bags of sand in the bed.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2016 17:16:51 -0600
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rust remover recomendation
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3619146993417808453==

--047d7bdc12543d5b43052a58ffef

This is from a well-known private publication that might sue me if I quote
them:

Best soak:  Evaporust in one-gallon size for 23 bucks.


Best brush-on:  Bull Frog Rust Remover in 16 ounces for 11 bucks.  Only one
tested that prevents flash rusting.
-- 
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

--047d7bdc12543d5b43052a58ffef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">This is from a well-known private publication that might s=
ue me if I quote them:<div><br></div><div>Best soak: =C2=A0Evaporust in one=
-gallon size for 23 bucks.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Best bru=
sh-on: =C2=A0Bull Frog Rust Remover in 16 ounces for 11 bucks.=C2=A0 Only o=
ne tested that prevents flash rusting.<br>-- <br><div class=3D"gmail_signat=
ure"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><span style=3D"color:rgb(0=
,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helve=
tica,sans-serif;font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(239,239,2=
39)">Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA</span><br></div><div><s=
pan style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida=
 grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">=
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW &quot;uncle jack&quot;, Sapphire Blue</span><b=
r style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida g=
rande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><s=
pan style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida=
 grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">=
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch</span><br sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande=
&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida gran=
de&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 =
Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-fa=
mily:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-ser=
if;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-=
family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)">2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Rega=
l Blue Pearl</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana,geneva=
,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color=
:rgb(239,239,239)"><a href=3D"http://www.mnautox.com/" style=3D"color:rgb(0=
,24,57);font-family:verdana,geneva,lucida,&#39;lucida grande&#39;,arial,hel=
vetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(239,239,239)" target=3D"_blank">http=
://www.mnautox.com</a><br></div></div></div></div></div>
</div></div>

--047d7bdc12543d5b43052a58ffef--

--===============3619146993417808453==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3619146993417808453==--

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2016 17:02:23 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] wifi router again
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0936925592730395529==

----__JWM__J3dc6d4a2.1ac974bS.7d99f189M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

 I have been messing around with my home network for many months a littl=
e here and there with mixed results.I had been planning to make use of s=
ome old b/g routers to add range but after running cat5e around the hous=
e found that the old routers didn't have the capability to set for AP on=
ly.  I thought the wife and daughters would be happy with wired so ran s=
ome more cable only to be advised recently that they still wanted strong=
 reliable wifi... I am throwing in the towel on my normal reuse mantra a=
nd am prepared to throw $$ at the problem and buy a state of the art rou=
ter.  Just trying to determine the state of the art.  I know some of you=
 guys are network knowledgeable so what say you.  I have a 2 story house=
, around 3K SF and looking to provide some signal in the yard as well. I=
 thought we had discussed this recently but the most recent that I could=
 find in the archive is 2011. I hope to pull the trigger on something fr=
om Amazon or newegg tonight or tomorrow. TIA! Matt BarreColumbus, GA   
----__JWM__J3dc6d4a2.1ac974bS.7d99f189M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have been messing around with my home network for many months a l=
ittle here and there with mixed results.</div>
<div>I had been planning to make use of some old b/g routers to add rang=
e but after running cat5e around the house found that the old routers di=
dn't have the capability to set for AP only. &nbsp;I thought the wife an=
d daughters would be happy with wired so ran some more cable only to be =
advised recently that they still wanted strong reliable wifi...</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I am throwing in the towel on my normal reuse mantra and am prepare=
d to throw $$ at the problem and buy a state of the art router. &nbsp;Ju=
st trying to determine the state of the art. &nbsp;I know some of you gu=
ys are network knowledgeable so what say you. &nbsp;I have a 2 story hou=
se, around 3K SF and looking to provide some signal in the yard as well.=
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I thought we had discussed this recently but the most recent that I=
 could find in the archive is 2011.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I hope to pull the trigger on something from Amazon or newegg tonig=
ht or tomorrow.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>TIA!</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Matt Barre</div>
<div>Columbus, GA</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div></html>

----__JWM__J3dc6d4a2.1ac974bS.7d99f189M--

--===============0936925592730395529==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0936925592730395529==--

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2016 10:21:11 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wifi router again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 > I am throwing in the towel on my normal reuse mantra and am prepared to
> throw $$ at the problem and buy a state of the art router.

I'm in the process of replacing my Zyxel USG20W with an ASUS RT-AC68U.

There are some elements of the ASUS that are a step down from the Zyxel
(in particular, a single DMZ host vs a complete DMZ subnet, this is a
software dumbing-down issue 'cause the hardware can readily support it)
but 802.11ac is starting to matter for me.

John.



_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Classic car insurance tangents
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2016 20:03:50 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Classic car insurance tangents
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I didn't want to hijack the original thread.....


First a question: How was your vehicle's value decided? I am especially int=
erested in hearing from the Datsun Roadster guys (and any of you who might =
have a FSJ; Full Size Jeep). A local Roadster owner was rear ended last yea=
r. It was a very slow hit but the repair estimate was well over what his co=
verage was. He has either grundy or hagerty. I do not remember.


I am ready to switch the Jeep (71 Gladiator fully restored and lifted, etc =
etc.) and my 70 Roadster to classic insurance but want to make sure they ar=
e insured for what it would cost to fix them if the worst happened.



Second, a knock on grundy: I looked into them when I got my Dad's Roadster.=
 At that time both of my daughters were in high school; one of which had he=
r license, and the wife and I both had clean driving records. Well, because=
 my daughter didn't have her own car, grundy denied me coverage stating "th=
e teen driver might take the Roadster for a drive because she didn't have h=
er own car". (<-----this is almost verbatim) It didn't matter that the chil=
d didn't know how to drive a manual or that fact that she wasn't allowed to=
 drive it. I have good kids and it would never have been an issue when they=
 were still at home.


so, take the grundy feedback any way you want. I was not happy with how I w=
as treated.


I hope to hear about the first bit from any and all of you.


Thanks

tim

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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>I didn't want to hijack the original thread.....</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>First a question: How was your vehicle's value decided? I am especially =
interested in hearing from the Datsun Roadster guys (and any of you who mig=
ht have a FSJ; Full Size Jeep). A local Roadster owner was rear ended last =
year. It was a very slow hit but
 the repair estimate was well over what his coverage was. He has either gru=
ndy or hagerty. I do not remember.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I am ready to switch the Jeep (71 Gladiator fully restored and lifted, e=
tc etc.) and my 70 Roadster to classic insurance but want to make sure they=
 are insured for what it would cost to fix them if the worst happened.&nbsp=
;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Second, a knock on grundy: I looked into them when I got my Dad's Roadst=
er. At that time both of my daughters were in high school; one of which had=
 her license, and the wife and I both had clean driving records. Well, beca=
use my daughter didn't have her
 own car, grundy denied me coverage stating &quot;the teen driver might tak=
e the Roadster for a drive because she didn't have her own car&quot;. (&lt;=
-----this is almost verbatim)&nbsp;It didn't matter that the child didn't k=
now how to drive a manual or that fact that she wasn't&nbsp;allowed
 to drive it. I have good kids and it would never have been an issue when t=
hey were still at home.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>so, take the grundy feedback any way you want. I was not happy with how =
I was treated.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I hope to hear about the first bit from any and all of you.&nbsp;</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0770554870103406006==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 28 14:28:03 2016
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2016 16:32:07 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Classic car insurance tangents
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 3:03 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
>
> First a question: How was your vehicle's value decided?

Hagerty has an agreed-on value, at least for me.

>  Well, because my
> daughter didn't have her own car, grundy denied me coverage stating "the
> teen driver might take the Roadster for a drive because she didn't have her
> own car". (<-----this is almost verbatim)

That's how you can get a classic car, agreed-on value policy for your
car at a fraction of what your regular car insurance would cost.
Because even though your kid is a good kid, someone else's isn't.  And
insurance is a pooled risk.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 31 13:32:35 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 14:57:17 -0500
 01/31/2016 14:58:35, Serialize complete at 01/31/2016 14:58:35
Subject: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============8602489393394599598==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 00705EF185257F4B_=

OK, I need some help trying to buy a new household vacuum.  I have a 2 
floor house, carpets on the top floor, hardwood, area rugs,  and linelomun 
on the first floor. (two units isn't out of the question)

I don't mind vacuuming if I have a good unit.  In the past, I even tried a 
commercial backpack mounted one, but it was poorly designed (and VERY 
expensive.)

I don't mind if it's heavy, I just want to make sure that it has a quick 
wand to pull out and get corners and such.  On board tools is a must, BUT 
they have to be out of the way.

My current dust devil constantly has the tools falling out or in the way.

I don't need HEPA filters or anything (but I did love the Rainbow vacuum 
that used water as the filter.  I just wish they had a 'messenger bag' 
style canister unit.)

I prefer upright. and I don't want to have to replace bags.  I have no 
problem cleaning a reusable filter.

I'm even thinking 'whole house unit', but the installation might take a 
while I need something in the meantime. 8>(

Price isn't a factor FOR A GREAT UNIT.  I don't like 'stick' or 
'rechargeable' models.

With that said, anyone have any suggests?

OB SHOP CONTENT- If I get a new vacuum, I'll take apart this one and build 
something stupid with it! 8>)


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 00705EF185257F4B_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, I need some help trying to buy a new
household vacuum. &nbsp;I have a 2 floor house, carpets on the top floor,
hardwood, area rugs, &nbsp;and linelomun on the first floor. (two units
isn't out of the question)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I don't mind vacuuming if I have a good
unit. &nbsp;In the past, I even tried a commercial backpack mounted one,
but it was poorly designed (and VERY expensive.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I don't mind if it's heavy, I just want
to make sure that it has a quick wand to pull out and get corners and such.
&nbsp;On board tools is a must, BUT they have to be out of the way.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">My current dust devil constantly has
the tools falling out or in the way.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I don't need HEPA filters or anything
(but I did love the Rainbow vacuum that used water as the filter. &nbsp;I
just wish they had a 'messenger bag' style canister unit.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I prefer upright. and I don't want to
have to replace bags. &nbsp;I have no problem cleaning a reusable filter.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I'm even thinking 'whole house unit',
but the installation might take a while I need something in the meantime.
8&gt;(</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Price isn't a factor FOR A GREAT UNIT.
&nbsp;I don't like 'stick' or 'rechargeable' models.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">With that said, anyone have any suggests?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">OB SHOP CONTENT- If I get a new vacuum,
I'll take apart this one and build something stupid with it! 8&gt;)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 00705EF185257F4B_=--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============8602489393394599598==--

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To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>, 
 "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
From: Bob Kegel <bobkegel@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 18:21:14 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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--===============7798869390529336100==
	boundary="_B50D42B3-0D36-4341-8D26-735488062003_"

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We have a Dyson DC07 and are very happy with it. It=E2=80=99s a 2003 model =
and still sucks like new. It rarely clogs, and when it does, can be easily =
cleared without tools.  The crevice tool, brush, and upholstery tool don=E2=
=80=99t come adrift. The cord is really long, enough to do three rooms from=
 the same outlet.

It=E2=80=99s easy to maintain. The main filter is washable; the HEPA filter=
 is supposed to be lifetime. I replaced it last year because it was inexpen=
sive. I=E2=80=99ve had to replace a few parts but they=E2=80=99re easy to f=
ind online.

I like the bagless design. The clear hopper lets you see when it=E2=80=99s =
full and it can be emptied in a few seconds. The money we haven=E2=80=99t s=
pent on bags probably equals the purchase price.
Bob K




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=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>We have a Dyson DC07 and are very ha=
ppy with it. It=E2=80=99s a 2003 model and still sucks like new. It rarely =
clogs, and when it does, can be easily cleared without tools. =C2=A0The cre=
vice tool, brush, and upholstery tool don=E2=80=99t come adrift. The cord i=
s really long, enough to do three rooms from the same outlet.</p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>It=E2=80=99s easy to=
 maintain. The main filter is washable; the HEPA filter is supposed to be l=
ifetime. I replaced it last year because it was inexpensive. I=E2=80=99ve h=
ad to replace a few parts but they=E2=80=99re easy to find online.</p><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I like the bagles=
s design. The clear hopper lets you see when it=E2=80=99s full and it can b=
e emptied in a few seconds. The money we haven=E2=80=99t spent on bags prob=
ably equals the purchase price.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin=
-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Bob K<br><br></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><=
o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div>=
</body></html>=

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 <20160201021918.81A1925854C9@autox.team.net>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 18:36:57 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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On 1/31/2016 6:21 PM, Bob Kegel wrote:
> We have a Dyson DC07 and are very happy with it. It=92s a 2003 model and
> still sucks like new. It rarely clogs, and when it does, can be easily
> cleared without tools.  The crevice tool, brush, and upholstery tool
> don=92t come adrift. The cord is really long, enough to do three rooms
> from the same outlet.

We have a Beam central vac, put it in when we remodeled 2003ish.  Was =

not cheap.  Paid someone to do the plumbing.

The main sucking unit has been great.  The collection bin capacity is =

not industrial-dust-collector sized, so you need to empty it roughly =

monthly.

I've had to replace one wall socket wherein the electrical contacts came =

apart.  Actually, my then-eight-year-old daughter did most of the work, =

with me handing her tools.  That's why it's upside-down compared to the =

rest, but it works fine and I'm not going to change it.

We also put in a couple 'vac-pans' (kick open the duct, turns on the =

motor, sweep your detritus over and it magically disappears) that have =

proven a bit fragile, I've replaced both once and have to replace =

another one now 'cause the electrical contacts have failed.

The Beam power-brush head unit has needed repair a couple of times, =

couple drive belts wore out, power brush clogged up with dog hair and =

broke the cover under the brush once, most recently the neck that =

connects the head to the pipe cracked.  The good news is that it's a =

remarkably simple design and comes thoroughly apart with a total of =

about three snap clips and eight screws, and the 'net drops parts at =

your doorstep quite cheaply, so after paying a local vacuum shop for the =

first belt change none of the subsequent failures has cost more than $15 =

to fix.

John.
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From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>, 
 "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6187268473915749791==

--001a11418fd2348383052aac5eca

Regarding built-in systems:
My brother has a built-in vacuum system, and he says it is more trouble
than it is worth:  the hose is really long, and it is more hassle to drag
from room to room than a regular vacuum cleaner.

--001a11418fd2348383052aac5eca
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Regarding built-in systems:<br>My brother has a built-in v=
acuum system, and he says it is more trouble=20
than it is worth:=C2=A0 the hose is really long, and it is more hassle
 to drag from room to room than a regular vacuum cleaner.<div class=3D"gmai=
l_extra"><br><br></div></div>

--001a11418fd2348383052aac5eca--

--===============6187268473915749791==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============6187268473915749791==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 31 20:34:09 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 19:31:40 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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On 1/31/2016 6:44 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> Regarding built-in systems:
> My brother has a built-in vacuum system, and he says it is more trouble
> than it is worth:  the hose is really long, and it is more hassle to
> drag from room to room than a regular vacuum cleaner.

Glad you brought that up.

It depends.  For full-house vacuuming jobs it's far preferable.  You 
haul the hose out, in our house you have to move the hose about four 
times to do the house.  The thing sucks very well, the capacity is far 
greater than a single bag or filter in an upright, it's lighter and more 
maneuverable with the power brush and FAR FAR better than a hand-held 
wand tool attached to an upright (on which the hose is never quite long 
enough to do what you need to do without knocking the thing over three 
times.)

But, yeah, for little jobs, for cleaning up the spilled morning coffee 
beans or something the kid knocked over, a smallish portable is 
definitely easier than dragging the hose out and plugging it in.

Ah, but next we'll be talking about Steam-Vacs and the like.  Perhaps I 
should have been asking around here about sources for sponge cord before 
I started rebuilding our Hoover, the mechanical bits were all perfectly 
fine but the seals between various pieces that eventually start leaking 
- mostly suction air - are all cut from lengths of sponge cord of a 
diameter not readily found at McMaster-Carr.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 31 21:20:06 2016
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 04:22:07 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3319751685930300695==

----__JWM__J3303a978.29ea4dd0S.2c594aadM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

 I had a central vac in a previous house - I think it was beam.Worked gr=
eat and yes the hose was quite long - didn't have the sweep port but I s=
ure wanted one!That was years ago though. When my wife's sister passed a=
way we got her Kirby - I love that thing!  It is a Cadillac with the dri=
ve but no onboard tools with this model.  Nut if you have lots of plain =
floor to vac - this is the device. The wife doesn't like it because it i=
s so heavy.  Her tool of choice is a Hoover wind tunnel that works well,=
 has neat onboard tools, is bagless and relatively easy to dump/clean, a=
nd didn't break the bank.  I recently used my mom's Dyson and it worked =
well.  I was particularly pleased with the integral pull out hose in the=
 handle but no way would I pay the crazy price for a new one.  MATT   =


---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 18:36:57 -0800

On 1/31/2016 6:21 PM, Bob Kegel wrote:
> We have a Dyson DC07 and are very happy with it. It&#65533;s a 2003 mo=
del and
> still sucks like new. It rarely clogs, and when it does, can be easily=

> cleared without tools.  The crevice tool, brush, and upholstery tool
> don&#65533;t come adrift. The cord is really long, enough to do three =
rooms
> from the same outlet.


The main sucking unit has been great.  The collection bin capacity is =

not industrial-dust-collector sized, so you need to empty it roughly =

monthly.


John.

----__JWM__J3303a978.29ea4dd0S.2c594aadM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>&nbsp;I had a central vac in a previous house - I think it wa=
s beam.</div>
<div>Worked great and yes the hose was quite long - didn't have the swee=
p port but I sure wanted one!</div>
<div>That was years ago though.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>When my wife's sister passed away we got her Kirby - I love that th=
ing! &nbsp;It is a Cadillac with the drive but no onboard tools with thi=
s model. &nbsp;Nut if you have lots of plain floor to vac - this is the =
device.&nbsp;The wife doesn't like it because it is so heavy. &nbsp;Her =
tool of choice is a Hoover wind tunnel that works well, has neat onboard=
 tools, is bagless and relatively easy to dump/clean, and didn't break t=
he bank.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I recently used my mom's Dyson and it worked well. &nbsp;I was part=
icularly pleased with the integral pull out hose in the handle but no wa=
y would I pay the crazy price for a new one.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;MATT</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: John Miller=
 &lt;jem@milleredp.com&gt;<br>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>Subject: R=
e: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!<br>Date: Sun, =
31 Jan 2016 18:36:57 -0800<br><br>On 1/31/2016 6:21 PM, Bob Kegel wrote:=
<br>&gt; We have a Dyson DC07 and are very happy with it. It&#65533;s a =
2003 model and<br>&gt; still sucks like new. It rarely clogs, and when i=
t does, can be easily<br>&gt; cleared without tools. &nbsp;The crevice t=
ool, brush, and upholstery tool<br>&gt; don&#65533;t come adrift. The co=
rd is really long, enough to do three rooms<br>&gt; from the same outlet=
.<br><br><br>The main sucking unit has been great. &nbsp;The collection =
bin capacity is <br>not industrial-dust-collector sized, so you need to =
empty it roughly <br>monthly.<br><br><br>John.</p></html>

----__JWM__J3303a978.29ea4dd0S.2c594aadM--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3319751685930300695==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 31 21:35:51 2016
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From: Bill Rabel <brabel@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In Munich a couple of years ago, I saw a hotel employee vacuuming the halls, using a canister vacuum with a hose and wand. The notable feature was that it was cordless! I've been unable to find such a vacuum through searching the Internet.

I've seen a line of rechargeable tools, E-Go, at Home Depot, that uses a 55-volt (or so) battery system. I bought the hedge trimmer, and it is a super tool, with 45 minutes of use before you have to recharge it. It seems like that system would lend itself to such a vacuum. That is on my wish list.

In my own home, I have an in-wall vacuum system, where the hoses retract into the wall when you're done with them. You just release the locking collar at the wall and put your hand over the nozzle. Zip. Gone.

- Bill Rabel
  Anacortes, WA

> On Jan 31, 2016, at 6:44 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
> 
> Regarding built-in systems:
> My brother has a built-in vacuum system, and he says it is more trouble than it is worth:  the hose is really long, and it is more hassle to drag from room to room than a regular vacuum cleaner.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel@comcast.net
> 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 31 21:49:27 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2016 20:44:39 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> In my own home, I have an in-wall vacuum system, where the hoses
> retract into the wall when you're done with them. You just release
> the locking collar at the wall and put your hand over the nozzle.
> Zip. Gone.

Something like these guys?

http://www.hideahose.com/

I'm envisioning a short story where that goes wrong, either an Aliens 
remake or some flavor of Japanese porn...

John.
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From: Richard Beels <rbeels@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


Go here and read this guy's AMAs: 
https://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/316tx6

The guy's advice is spot on.  I have a Miele canister and the wife 
loves it.  It was $700 but sucks like a vaccuum should.

If you want to do carpets, you'll want an adjustable-height powerhead.

And we have a $100 B&D dustbuster-type model (BDH2020FLFH) that is 
great for a quick zip around the corners and edges.




At 01/31/2016 at 14:57, Shakespearean monkeys danced on 
eric@megageek.com's keyboard and said:
>OK, I need some help trying to buy a new household vacuum.  I have a 
>2 floor house, carpets on the top floor, hardwood, area rugs,  and 
>linelomun on the first floor. (two units isn't out of the question)
>
>I don't mind vacuuming if I have a good unit.  In the past, I even 
>tried a commercial backpack mounted one, but it was poorly designed 
>(and VERY expensive.)
>
>I don't mind if it's heavy, I just want to make sure that it has a 
>quick wand to pull out and get corners and such.  On board tools is 
>a must, BUT they have to be out of the way.
>
>My current dust devil constantly has the tools falling out or in the way.
>
>I don't need HEPA filters or anything (but I did love the Rainbow 
>vacuum that used water as the filter.  I just wish they had a 
>'messenger bag' style canister unit.)
>
>I prefer upright. and I don't want to have to replace bags.  I have 
>no problem cleaning a reusable filter.
>
>I'm even thinking 'whole house unit', but the installation might 
>take a while I need something in the meantime. 8>(
>
>Price isn't a factor FOR A GREAT UNIT.  I don't like 'stick' or 
>'rechargeable' models.
>
>With that said, anyone have any suggests?
>
>OB SHOP CONTENT- If I get a new vacuum, I'll take apart this one and 
>build something stupid with it! 8>)
>
>
>Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
>Eric P
>"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
>rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
>territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson


Cheers!

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

