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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2015 18:58:19 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Outlook help?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need some help with Outlook, specifically Outlook 10 and an Exchange 
server.  Shop content- I'm a shop teacher and I use it at school....

I got a new Surface 3 recently.  I got my school email to come up fine 
both on Outlook 365 (web based) and via the Mail app on Windows 10.  My 
credentials went right through and the mail comes down from the 
District's Exchange server just fine.  They will both do in a pinch, but 
they are not ideal for any kind of heavy duty email use.

I installed Outlook 10 on the machine from DVDs (this is the full meal 
deal Outlook, not the web version) and all of the applications work, 
including Outlook.  I got my home POP 3 email account working just 
fine.  The problem is getting the district's Exchange server to work.  I 
can set up the account without any trouble; it goes through the entire 
New Account process, accepts my user name and password and seems to have 
the account all set up.  When you close the New Account dialog box and 
log in for the first time you get an authentication box where you have 
to enter your user name and password yet again, and this is where the 
system is hanging up.  It just keeps asking for my user name and 
password over and over, and never logs in.  We even changed my password 
and it's still doing the same thing.  The District IT guy is just as 
stumped as I am; we spent nearly an hour trying to get it to work 
yesterday.

If anyone is an Outlook Ninja and has any suggestions, I would love to 
hear them.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  1 22:33:44 2015
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To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <565E5E4B.2070705@frontier.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2015 21:34:12 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.3.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Outlook help?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Your Windoze login at home and at school are different domains. Rather 
than just logging in with your username, you might have to use the 
domain and username.  The format would be something like domain\username 
- this is something I have to do when I access one particular company 
network from home.

My company also doesn't allow non-VPN connections to the mail server 
from outside the corporate network (like home) as a security practice.

If you are allowed, you could always bring the Surface to school and try 
and connect from inside the network to help troubleshoot.

Brian

On 12/1/2015 6:58 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I need some help with Outlook, specifically Outlook 10 and an Exchange 
> server.  Shop content- I'm a shop teacher and I use it at school....
>
> I got a new Surface 3 recently.  I got my school email to come up fine 
> both on Outlook 365 (web based) and via the Mail app on Windows 10.  
> My credentials went right through and the mail comes down from the 
> District's Exchange server just fine.  They will both do in a pinch, 
> but they are not ideal for any kind of heavy duty email use.
>
> I installed Outlook 10 on the machine from DVDs (this is the full meal 
> deal Outlook, not the web version) and all of the applications work, 
> including Outlook.  I got my home POP 3 email account working just 
> fine.  The problem is getting the district's Exchange server to work.  
> I can set up the account without any trouble; it goes through the 
> entire New Account process, accepts my user name and password and 
> seems to have the account all set up.  When you close the New Account 
> dialog box and log in for the first time you get an authentication box 
> where you have to enter your user name and password yet again, and 
> this is where the system is hanging up.  It just keeps asking for my 
> user name and password over and over, and never logs in.  We even 
> changed my password and it's still doing the same thing.  The District 
> IT guy is just as stumped as I am; we spent nearly an hour trying to 
> get it to work yesterday.
>
> If anyone is an Outlook Ninja and has any suggestions, I would love to 
> hear them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2015 09:58:28 -0600
References: <OF9C532A43.A04F87DD-ON85257F08.004FAD5F-85257F08.00500673@mail.megageek.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the  'compressor'?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On Nov 25, 2015, at 08:07, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> First, Happy T'day to all the US folk here.  For your not in the US, have
> a great day as well.
>
>
> On to the question...
>
> I have a compressor that I have been using for about 20 years now (wow,
> has it really been that long?)
>
> Recently, the compressor is leaking some oil.  So I know a replacement is
> coming up.  My question, is it better to replace the whole unit, or just
> the compressor pump?

For me, it would ldepend on the compressor.  If it's a high quality industrial
compressor, I would check out the tank, and  if it's good, repair or replace
the pump.

If the tank is crap, replace the whole thing.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2015 21:06:22 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys

looking to buy a smaller flat screen tv to use as a monitor on my desktop...
probably around 30-32b..    tried one of mine hooked up thru HDMI and it
worked great... no more squinting.
Wife said I couldnbt keep it...

prices are getting good right now  but Ibm wondering if I should spend for a
1080 dpi over a 720 (cheaper)   can a pc push 1080 or is it a waste of money

thanks
John
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <172C6E4BA85B41B0A1BDE9CFE0E73A71@UserPC>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2015 22:56:29 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Any modern PC can drive a 1080p monitor.
It would be short-sighted to get anything less.
Even laptops have 1080p screens.

Doug

On Sun, Dec 6, 2015 at 10:06 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> Hi Guys
>
> looking to buy a smaller flat screen tv to use as a monitor on my
> desktop...
> probably around 30-32b ..    tried one of mine hooked up thru HDMI and it
> worked great... no more squinting.
> Wife said I couldnb t keep it...
>
> prices are getting good right now  but Ib m wondering if I should spend
> for a
> 1080 dpi over a 720 (cheaper)   can a pc push 1080 or is it a waste of
> money
>
> thanks
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <172C6E4BA85B41B0A1BDE9CFE0E73A71@UserPC>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2015 20:00:00 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.4.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John - I have a 27" TV/monitor for my computer.  It is running 1920 x 
1080 via a DVI cable.  The computer video is part of the motherboard - 
nothing fancy.  It is Windows 7 probably purchased in 2009.  For me, 27" 
is plenty big for sitting up close.  You can have two large windows 
running.  I will typically only use half the screen at a time and almost 
never have any window maximized.

When I put this setup together several years ago, the recommendation was 
DVI over HDMI for a computer monitor.  I don't remember the specific 
reasons why, but I'm happy with the setup.

Every so often I will connect my wife's laptop to our 32" 720 dpi TV to 
watch a movie or show pictures on a bigger screen.  All the Windows 
graphics are too big and it annoys me.  I much prefer the smaller icons 
on my 1080 screen.

I wouldn't think the price difference between 720 and 1080 is all that 
much factored over several years.  If my monitor every goes, there is no 
question I'll get another 1080 (or better).

Brian

On 12/6/2015 7:06 PM, john niolon wrote:
> Hi Guys
>
> looking to buy a smaller flat screen tv to use as a monitor on my desktop...
> probably around 30-32b..    tried one of mine hooked up thru HDMI and it
> worked great... no more squinting.
> Wife said I couldnbt keep it...
>
> prices are getting good right now  but Ibm wondering if I should spend for a
> 1080 dpi over a 720 (cheaper)   can a pc push 1080 or is it a waste of money
>
> thanks
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <172C6E4BA85B41B0A1BDE9CFE0E73A71@UserPC>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 00:18:36 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
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One thing to keep in mind:  if you're planning to use this solely as a 
PC monitor, you might well consider looking for a PC monitor that size 
instead of a TV.  With a TV, you'll be paying for digital tuners, remote 
controls, speakers, etc that you'll probably never use in a PC setup.  
That said, there's probably not much market for large low-resolution PC 
monitors (believe it or not, for a PC monitor that size, 1080 is pretty 
low resolution) so 32" TVs might still be cheaper simply due to economy 
of scale.  But it's worth checking into.

To answer your other question...any PC made within the last 7-10 years 
should have enough horsepower to drive a 1080p display.  If it has an 
HDMI or DisplayPort output, you're probably good to go.


On 12/06/15 22:06, john niolon wrote:
> Hi Guys
>
> looking to buy a smaller flat screen tv to use as a monitor on my desktop...
> probably around 30-32b..    tried one of mine hooked up thru HDMI and it
> worked great... no more squinting.
> Wife said I couldnbt keep it...
>
> prices are getting good right now  but Ibm wondering if I should spend for a
> 1080 dpi over a 720 (cheaper)   can a pc push 1080 or is it a waste of money
>
> thanks
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2015 23:01:30 -0800
Thread-Index: AdEwoJotPX5vExIVTuyMYeWaWFgMSAAHFoIg
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> can a pc push 1080 or is it a 
> waste of money

Even 1080 is on the low side IMO.  This screen is 1920 x 1200 and I like it.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 07:43:39 2015
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, 'shop-talk'
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 08:11:58 2015
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: 'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2015 08:49:36 -0600
References: <46.DA.09995.ACE25665@cdptpa-oedge03>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
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Try this again ...


+1 on the 1920 x 1200 version, if you can find them. The norm for HD seems to be 1920 x 1080. Tons of them out there. 
I had to look a while to find the 1200 line version I prefer.


Arvid


On Sun, 6 Dec 2015 23:01:30 -0800
  "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> can a pc push 1080 or is it a 
>> waste of money
> 
> Even 1080 is on the low side IMO.B B This screen is 1920 x 1200 and I like it.
> 
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB B $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:09:55 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

1080p is the minimum resolution for a computer monitor made in the last 20
years.  I have a CRT computer monitor from 1997 that will do better than
that.  I used it with a pentium 1 processor and graphics card from that
era.  Any computer you are likely to still be using can do 1600x1200, which
is much better than 1080p.  Remember that 1080 is meant for watching movies
from across the room, not looking at text and graphics from across your
desk.  If you are getting a monitor that large and want to use it for
normal PC tasks, get one that is 4k or does at least 1600x1200.  I have to
use a 1080 monitor at work, all day every day, and I hate it.

On Sun, Dec 6, 2015 at 9:06 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> Hi Guys
>
> looking to buy a smaller flat screen tv to use as a monitor on my
> desktop...
> probably around 30-32b ..    tried one of mine hooked up thru HDMI and it
> worked great... no more squinting.
> Wife said I couldnb t keep it...
>
> prices are getting good right now  but Ib m wondering if I should spend
> for a
> 1080 dpi over a 720 (cheaper)   can a pc push 1080 or is it a waste of
> money
>
> thanks
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 08:58:02 2015
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 15:30:45 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] flat screen tv to monitor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 John, 32 inch flat screens were running $150 recently (not just camp out
doorbusters). 24 inch monitors with excellent resolution are running $100.To
bump up to 27 inch monitor is around $150. There are numerous ways to run
multiple monitors - my wife is a CPA and runs 4 screens from her laptop.I get
by with a new 24 inch monitor and a 22 inch - sub 24 inchers are getting
ridiculously cheap There are many ways to skin this cat - how your office/desk
is configured and personal preference will likely govern.

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2015 21:06:22 -0600

looking to buy a smaller flat screen tv to use as a monitor on my desktop...
probably around 30-32b..

John
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2015 20:11:55 -0600
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Floor repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a little section of a floor which is spongy. The floor is 3/4"
plywood with a over lay of 1/4" plywood all on 16 inch centers.  The bad
section is small and only between two joists. My plan was to cut out the bad
section between the joists and replace it with new plywood. My question, is
plywood stiffer between two joists  if a sheet spans several joists or will my
plan of one piece spanning between two joists be as stiff as a full sheet
spanning several joists?
Also, is plywood stiffer across its width or stiffer across its length
I hope this all makes sense .
Bob
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  8 21:16:52 2015
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To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>, Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <11417038-4FA0-4761-8FBB-E91EFEC0405C@me.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:20:34 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor repair
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Bob - Is there any damage to the wood?  I'd wonder about the reason it 
got spongy.

A bigger sheet will be stronger, but you can make due with a smaller 
patch.  If you cut out the damaged section, I would leave the existing 
floor over the full joist to maintain the strength of the rest of the 
floor.  I would then take additional 2x boards and sister them to the 
existing joists to attach the patch.  This will give you a full 2x to 
attach the floor patch, so you don't have to screw right at the edge of 
the plywood.  I would also add 2x blocking between the joists where you 
cut to support the edges of both the original floor and the patch.  That 
will also stiffen the floor.  If the patch is more than a couple feet or 
you have a heavy load at that location, I would also add blocking in the 
middle.  It is only an one extra length of board when you are going 
through the effort.

If the wood is not damaged and you have access to the floor joists from 
below, like an unfinished basement or a crawl space, I'd just add 
blocking from below.  Push the blocking up tight and screw it in and you 
don't have to mess with the floor.

If this is due to water damage or termites, expect the problem to be 
bigger than it appears before demo.

Brian

On 12/8/2015 6:11 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I've got a little section of a floor which is spongy. The floor is 3/4"
> plywood with a over lay of 1/4" plywood all on 16 inch centers.  The bad
> section is small and only between two joists. My plan was to cut out the bad
> section between the joists and replace it with new plywood. My question, is
> plywood stiffer between two joists  if a sheet spans several joists or will my
> plan of one piece spanning between two joists be as stiff as a full sheet
> spanning several joists?
> Also, is plywood stiffer across its width or stiffer across its length
> I hope this all makes sense .
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor repair
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On 12/8/2015 9:11 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I've got a little section of a floor which is spongy. The floor is 3/4"
> plywood with a over lay of 1/4" plywood all on 16 inch centers.  The bad
> section is small and only between two joists. My plan was to cut out the bad
> section between the joists and replace it with new plywood. My question, is
> plywood stiffer between two joists  if a sheet spans several joists or will my
> plan of one piece spanning between two joists be as stiff as a full sheet
> spanning several joists?
> Also, is plywood stiffer across its width or stiffer across its length
> I hope this all makes sense .
> Bob
I prefer to span at least three joints, it basically doubles the 
stiffness.  Adding 2x4 cross bridging between joints also helps.

Plywood is slightly stiffer along the length, but only slightly.
_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2015 10:04:55 -0500
References: <11417038-4FA0-4761-8FBB-E91EFEC0405C@me.com>
To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have done this with extra blocking as Brian suggests. 2x4 was plenty to
provide additional support. I was replacing water damaged plywood under my
bathroom.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 8, 2015, at 9:11 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com> wrote:
>
> I've got a little section of a floor which is spongy. The floor is 3/4"
> plywood with a over lay of 1/4" plywood all on 16 inch centers.  The bad
> section is small and only between two joists. My plan was to cut out the
bad
> section between the joists and replace it with new plywood. My question, is
> plywood stiffer between two joists  if a sheet spans several joists or will
my
> plan of one piece spanning between two joists be as stiff as a full sheet
> spanning several joists?
> Also, is plywood stiffer across its width or stiffer across its length
> I hope this all makes sense .
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas@snet.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  9 08:10:46 2015
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Robert nogueira'" <nogera@me.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <11417038-4FA0-4761-8FBB-E91EFEC0405C@me.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2015 09:10:56 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor repair
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Bob,

You can just replace the spongy part, but it would be better to replace a
bigger area. If I were doing it, I would cut out a section about half way
between the joist and the next one on each side. With your joists on 16"
centers, the patch would be about 32" wide. This makes for stronger support
of the area. I would also screw 2x4's around all the edges of the opening,
half under the old wood and half to support the new. Use adhesive and screws
to secure it.

While you have the floor open look to see what might have caused the wood to
fail in the first place. Is the location under or near the frig? There may
be a leak there. There may be a duct under the floor that could be leaking
moist air in that area. Plywood doesn't usually fail like that by itself.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Robert nogueira
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 8:12 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Floor repair

I've got a little section of a floor which is spongy. The floor is 3/4"
plywood with a over lay of 1/4" plywood all on 16 inch centers.  The bad
section is small and only between two joists. My plan was to cut out the bad
section between the joists and replace it with new plywood. My question, is
plywood stiffer between two joists  if a sheet spans several joists or will
my plan of one piece spanning between two joists be as stiff as a full sheet
spanning several joists?
Also, is plywood stiffer across its width or stiffer across its length I
hope this all makes sense .
Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2015 21:28:20 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] new project need mechanical advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Had an opportunity to pick this up... couldn't pass it up..
.
1985 Mercedes Benz 380 SE got a 4.7L FI engine double overhead cam... I think

been sitting up probably 10 years... they tried to start it in b13 or b14
...no luck... probably bad gas...

anyway... it's sitting in MY yard now with the battery on charge. I need
someone with Mercedes experience I guess and the dealer wants 2nd mortgage
money

If you were going to try to get it running after sitting so long... what would
you do and in what sequence... I figure drain the gas, change the oil... talk
to me


http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/Img_0790.jpg
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/Img_0785.jpg


I figure change plugs, figure out where the fuel filter is and remove it...
pull injectors and clean them
get the fuel out of the tank and the fuel rails then replace filter
change the oil  (sticker says last change 2004)

what else ???
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 12 20:56:29 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'john niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2015 19:58:26 -0800
Thread-Index: AdE1VrRe1OkqoYXXQRScsSSUxpAixAAAw23A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] new project need mechanical advice
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After adding fresh oil and you pull the plugs, squirt a healthy dose of your favorite penetrating oil (eg PB Blaster or Kroil) into
each plug hole.  Let sit for a few hours, then spin the engine with the plugs out.

After changing fuel and removing injectors, run the pump long enough to flush out the lines with fresh fuel.  Check for water in
what comes out.

I don't know how the engine is arranged, but if it doesn't fire quickly, I'd look for some way to verify that both cams are turning.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 15 11:09:03 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2015 12:43:02 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/15/2015 12:42:51, Serialize complete at
 12/15/2015 12:42:51
Subject: [Shop-talk] Moving heavy equipment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello fellow gearheads!

I have a quick question. I  was planning on moving lots of stuff (tools, 
appliances, furniture, etc) from NJ to WV. 

I was looking into a service where I can load a connex on my end, have it 
delivered and unload it at the other end.  (The main business is "PODS" 
that does this.)

I'm looking for recommendations for cheap companies (stuff isn't breakable 
or valuable) or other recommendations for do this.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2015 14:37:37 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OFEF606E07.D0AB73E3-ON85257F1C.00610743-85257F1C.0063D6DA@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Moving heavy equipment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 15 Dec 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> I have a quick question. I  was planning on moving lots of stuff (tools,
> appliances, furniture, etc) from NJ to WV.
>
> I was looking into a service where I can load a connex on my end, have it
> delivered and unload it at the other end.  (The main business is "PODS"
> that does this.)
>
> I'm looking for recommendations for cheap companies (stuff isn't breakable
> or valuable) or other recommendations for do this.
>
> Any ideas?

    Some family recently relocated from Illinois to North Carolina.  They 
used Upack.com, who dropped a 28x8x9' box trailer in their driveway, and a 
few days later, moved it to Fayetteville.  We packed every inch of that 
trailer to the ceiling, but if you need less, you only pay for the space 
you use.

    They were pretty satisfied.  Upack will also store the loaded trailer, 
if need be.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2015 20:59:49 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Moving heavy equipment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  PODS probably provides the most well known turnkey solution - but you pay a
premium for the convenience.If they could use a container at their
destination, I would bet the cheapest solution would be to buy a container.I
imagine they are fairly reasonable in NJ if not too far from Newark.Then you
aren't on the clock and can have it moved at your pace.You could even try "you
ship"

---------- Original Message ----------
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Moving heavy equipment
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2015 14:37:37 -0500 (EST)

On Tue, 15 Dec 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> I have a quick question. I  was planning on moving lots of stuff (tools,
> appliances, furniture, etc) from NJ to WV.
>
> I was looking into a service where I can load a connex on my end, have it
> delivered and unload it at the other end.  (The main business is "PODS"
> that does this.)
>
> I'm looking for recommendations for cheap companies (stuff isn't breakable
> or valuable) or other recommendations for do this.
>
> Any ideas?

    Some family recently relocated from Illinois to North Carolina.  They
used Upack.com, who dropped a 28x8x9' box trailer in their driveway, and a
few days later, moved it to Fayetteville.  We packed every inch of that
trailer to the ceiling, but if you need less, you only pay for the space
you use.

    They were pretty satisfied.  Upack will also store the loaded trailer,
if need be.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 15 17:46:33 2015
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To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFEF606E07.D0AB73E3-ON85257F1C.00610743-85257F1C.0063D6DA@mail.megageek.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2015 16:50:01 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Moving heavy equipment
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I'd also recommend you price a local mover, especially if you have 
flexibility in your move date and can be fit in to their schedule for a 
discounted rate.

I looked at PODS and found them priced at a premium.  I was pleasantly 
surprised how affordable it was to have the three movers load their 
large truck full (the biggest that isn't a semi) and unload my house at 
the other end.  I had all the delicate items and valuables either 
already moved or in a room with the door closed and marked don't pack.

It was especially nice to have the movers carry all the heavy stuff down 
22 steps to the house.   My legs were dead and there is no way I could 
have done it on my own.

Brian

On 12/15/2015 9:43 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Hello fellow gearheads!
>
> I have a quick question. I  was planning on moving lots of stuff (tools,
> appliances, furniture, etc) from NJ to WV.
>
> I was looking into a service where I can load a connex on my end, have it
> delivered and unload it at the other end.  (The main business is "PODS"
> that does this.)
>
> I'm looking for recommendations for cheap companies (stuff isn't breakable
> or valuable) or other recommendations for do this.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 12:28:16 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What is it?
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  I bought a lot of tools recently and while sorting them out came across a
few items I couldn't identify.In particular these tubes with a spiral core.
They look like they screw onto maybe a bottle?Any ideas?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 22 05:53:33 2015
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 12:56:26 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What is it?
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 Here is a photobucket
link:http://s804.photobucket.com/user/mrbarre/media/Spiral.jpg.html?filters[u
ser]=110045784&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What is it?
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 12:28:16 GMT

  I bought a lot of tools recently and while sorting them out came across a
few items I couldn't identify.In particular these tubes with a spiral core.
They look like they screw onto maybe a bottle?Any ideas?
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 08:34:11 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What is it?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Looks like it's for mixing something, and applying it?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 7:56 AM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
>  Here is a photobucket
> link:http://s804.photobucket.com/user/mrbarre/media/Spiral.jpg.html?filters[u
> ser]=110045784&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] What is it?
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 12:28:16 GMT
>
>   I bought a lot of tools recently and while sorting them out came across a
> few items I couldn't identify.In particular these tubes with a spiral core.
> They look like they screw onto maybe a bottle?Any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
References: <20151222.075626.28434.3@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 08:40:38 -0500
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>  I bought a lot of tools recently and while sorting them out came across a
> few items I couldn't identify.In particular these tubes with a spiral 
> core.
> They look like they screw onto maybe a bottle?Any ideas?

Perhaps for a 2-part glue? The mixer tube fits onto a cartridge that 
contains the 2 parts.

http://www.sealboss.com/CARTRIDGE.php

http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ETIPAC10-Crack-Pac-Cartridge/dp/B005MYXIIK

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 22 08:43:30 2015
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What is it?
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Simpson Strong-Tie mixing nozzles.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Epoxy-Mixing-Nozzle-5-Pack-EMN22i-RP5/100659424

Here are some of the products that use them:
http://www.homedepot.com/s/simpson+epoxy?NCNI-5

I've used this epoxy to set threaded rod in holes in the foundation to 
attach some of their products to better secure my house during various 
renovations.

Brian

On 12/22/2015 4:56 AM, Matt wrote:
>   Here is a photobucket
> link:http://s804.photobucket.com/user/mrbarre/media/Spiral.jpg.html?filters[u
> ser]=110045784&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] What is it?
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 12:28:16 GMT
>
>    I bought a lot of tools recently and while sorting them out came across a
> few items I couldn't identify.In particular these tubes with a spiral core.
> They look like they screw onto maybe a bottle?Any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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On 12/22/2015 5:40 AM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>>  I bought a lot of tools recently and while sorting them out came
>> across a
>> few items I couldn't identify.In particular these tubes with a spiral
>> core.
>> They look like they screw onto maybe a bottle?Any ideas?
>
> Perhaps for a 2-part glue?

Yeah, lots of two-part mixing-gun stuff uses nozzles like that, I think 
I've got at least three different sizes in the drawers right now - one 
batch from some tubes of Corian adhesive, one batch from some SEM 
two-part body-seam sealant, and one from some foundation-bolt epoxy.

John.
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 22:25:30 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whatisit?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 Thanks guys.  yall clearly nailed it as an adhesive mixing nozzle.I thought I
had sent out an acknowledgment earlier but never saw it. I continue to be
impressed with the intellect available via this list. May you all have a very
Merry Christmas and wonderful 2016. Matt BarreColumbus, GA
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Oops.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 22 20:23:36 2015
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I thought I had turned off the image exclusion for this list some time 
ago, I guess not.
Done now.

Enjoy however it is you celebrate the longest night of the year.

mjb.


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 25 19:10:48 2015
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2015 21:15:14 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Seat Heaters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============7505977217923007431==


--Apple-Mail=_37FDB52B-B8F1-4628-9F90-305DA0C863F0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

First, Merry Christmas to everyone.  I hope Santa brought all the tools =
and/or car parts you=E2=80=99d asked for this year.  He was certainly =
good to me: I got everything I need to completely rebuild the seats on =
my Alpine, something that has been on my to do list for quite a while.  =
I am not sure when I will actually get to it, but my plan is to have it =
done before spring arrives.  But, before I start I have been thinking =
that maybe I could extend the top down season a bit by installing seat =
warmers while I am at it.  As far as I can see, they wouldn=E2=80=99t =
add more than a couple of minutes to the reupholstery process and the =
wiring shouldn=E2=80=99t be too bad as the car has a modern harness and =
alternator.  I just did a quick search for Seat Warmers on Amazon and =
there are many complete sets (bottom and back for two seats) in the =
$50-80 range, plus a Dorman kit that runs $60 per seat.  =
(http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-628-040-Universal-Seat-Heater/dp/B002U6IL9O/=
ref=3Dsr_1_16?s=3Dautomotive&ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1451094179&sr=3D1-16&keywords=
=3Dcar+seat+heater =
<http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-628-040-Universal-Seat-Heater/dp/B002U6IL9O/=
ref=3Dsr_1_16?s=3Dautomotive&ie=3DUTF8&qid=3D1451094179&sr=3D1-16&keywords=
=3Dcar+seat+heater>)  Most seem to have decent reviews and I can=E2=80=99t=
 see anything in the Dorman units - besides a brand name - to justify =
doubling the cost.  But, I trust reviews here much more than on Amazon.  =
Has anyone here ever installed universal warmers?  On a Little British =
Car or equivalent?  Any recommendations?

As always, Thanks!=

--Apple-Mail=_37FDB52B-B8F1-4628-9F90-305DA0C863F0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">First, Merry Christmas to everyone. &nbsp;I hope Santa =
brought all the tools and/or car parts you=E2=80=99d asked for this =
year. &nbsp;He was certainly good to me: I got everything I need to =
completely rebuild the seats on my Alpine, something that has been on my =
to do list for quite a while. &nbsp;I am not sure when I will actually =
get to it, but my plan is to have it done before spring arrives. =
&nbsp;But, before I start I have been thinking that maybe I could extend =
the top down season a bit by installing seat warmers while I am at it. =
&nbsp;As far as I can see, they wouldn=E2=80=99t add more than a couple =
of minutes to the reupholstery process and the wiring shouldn=E2=80=99t =
be too bad as the car has a modern harness and alternator. &nbsp;I just =
did a quick search for Seat Warmers on Amazon and there are many =
complete sets (bottom and back for two seats) in the $50-80 range, plus =
a Dorman kit that runs $60 per seat. &nbsp;(<a =
href=3D"http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-628-040-Universal-Seat-Heater/dp/B002=
U6IL9O/ref=3Dsr_1_16?s=3Dautomotive&amp;ie=3DUTF8&amp;qid=3D1451094179&amp=
;sr=3D1-16&amp;keywords=3Dcar+seat+heater" =
class=3D"">http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-628-040-Universal-Seat-Heater/dp/B=
002U6IL9O/ref=3Dsr_1_16?s=3Dautomotive&amp;ie=3DUTF8&amp;qid=3D1451094179&=
amp;sr=3D1-16&amp;keywords=3Dcar+seat+heater</a>) &nbsp;Most seem to =
have decent reviews and I can=E2=80=99t see anything in the Dorman units =
- besides a brand name - to justify doubling the cost. &nbsp;But, I =
trust reviews here much more than on Amazon. &nbsp;Has anyone here ever =
installed universal warmers? &nbsp;On a Little British Car or =
equivalent? &nbsp;Any recommendations?<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">As always, Thanks!</div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_37FDB52B-B8F1-4628-9F90-305DA0C863F0--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============7505977217923007431==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 25 20:38:34 2015
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <FED8EE25-E2E5-472A-964E-833488414248@gmail.com>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2015 22:43:05 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Seat Heaters
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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Huh, I had no idea aftermarket seat-warmer kits existed and were safe.  
Maybe it's time to add heated seats to my 06 4Runner.  I wonder how well 
these kits will perform with cloth seats?



On 12/25/15 21:15, Jim Stone wrote:
> ...I just did a quick search for Seat Warmers on Amazon and there are 
> many complete sets (bottom and back for two seats) in the $50-80 
> range, plus a Dorman kit that runs $60 per seat. [...Amazon link 
> deleted...] But, I trust reviews here much more than on Amazon.  Has 
> anyone here ever installed universal warmers?  On a Little British Car 
> or equivalent?  Any recommendations?



--------------010706000306070107020207
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Huh, I had no idea aftermarket
      seat-warmer kits existed and were safe.  Maybe it's time to add
      heated seats to my 06 4Runner.  I wonder how well these kits will
      perform with cloth seats?<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      On 12/25/15 21:15, Jim Stone wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:FED8EE25-E2E5-472A-964E-833488414248@gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      ...I just did a quick search for Seat Warmers on Amazon and there
      are many complete sets (bottom and back for two seats) in the
      $50-80 range, plus a Dorman kit that runs $60 per seat. 
      [...Amazon link deleted...] But, I trust reviews here much more
      than on Amazon.  Has anyone here ever installed universal warmers?
       On a Little British Car or equivalent?  Any recommendations?</blockquote>
    <br>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 25 22:18:37 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2015 21:23:08 -0800
Thread-Index: AdE/l5mYhfmz8dMFRNCNDd1UfWLzHwAAymvQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Seat Heaters
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> and I can't see anything in the Dorman units - 
> besides a brand name -

Not necessarily relevant, but I'll never buy a Dorman product again.  Kind of a long story, but they were the only source I could
find for rear half shafts for my Buick wagon.  I went through 4 of them before realizing that the shafts themselves were not made
properly; the last time actually set the car on fire!

With that axle, the shaft forms the inner race for the wheel bearing, and is supposed to have a hardened area where the rollers run.
I don't know what they did wrong, but on every Dorman shaft, the bearing area spalled away and left a big groove in the axle.  When
it caught fire, I'd been driving in the hills and hadn't noticed that the brake shoes were mostly supporting the car (so the drum
was red hot).  When the seal finally melted from the heat, the axle oil running into the hot drum caught fire.  Big scare, ruined
vacation, and I don't know how many $1000 spent renting a car and a motel room, etc, on top of the $2000 to fix the axle (which had
to be rebuilt again less than 1000 miles later, apparently because the first shop reused the Dorman shaft that hadn't already
failed).

Dorman used to be a quality, mostly made-in-USA name.  But apparently the Dorman family sold the business some years ago, and now
Dorman parts are mostly Chinese junk.

YMMV, IMO, NFI and all that stuff.

-- Randall  

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 05:18:16 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 06:55:26 -0500
 12/26/2015 06:55:05, Serialize complete at 12/26/2015 06:55:05
Subject: [Shop-talk] Am I getting this old already?  (Shop content)
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============0379894651159359373==

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--=_alternative 0044040985257F27_=

First, I hope everything had a great Christmas and is looking forward to 
the new year.  You know your a gear head when your ONLY gifts are gift 
cards to NAPA.  8>0

On to my shop content question....

I need a pallet jack with a built in scale.  The problem is that it seems 
every single one with a non-electric dial indicator has been removed from 
the earth.
I don't want another battery to have to make sure is charged the few times 
a year I need it.  I'm also willing to pay real money (if needed).

Anyone have a source for such a beast?

And yes, I do feel 'old' when I'm searching for a NON-electric gadget. 8>) 
 As for accuracy, I don't need +/_ 1/4" over 4000 LBS.  Just close enough 
to get shipping quotes.

I also thought to maybe retrofit one of my existing jacks with a hydro 
pressure gauge (and I like the idea of making it myself) but I can't find 
a place to tap into the jacks without interfering with the clearances and 
mechanics of them (they are very small, self contained pumps.) 

If you have a source for this conversion, I'll love that also!

Thanks again!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 0044040985257F27_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, I hope everything had a great Christmas
and is looking forward to the new year. &nbsp;You know your a gear head
when your ONLY gifts are gift cards to NAPA. &nbsp;8&gt;0</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">On to my shop content question....</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I need a pallet jack with a built in
scale. &nbsp;The problem is that it seems every single one with a non-electric
dial indicator has been removed from the earth.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I don't want another battery to have
to make sure is charged the few times a year I need it. &nbsp;I'm also
willing to pay real money (if needed).</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Anyone have a source for such a beast?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">And yes, I do feel 'old' when I'm searching
for a NON-electric gadget. &nbsp;8&gt;) &nbsp;As for accuracy, I don't
need +/_ 1/4&quot; over 4000 LBS. &nbsp;Just close enough to get shipping
quotes.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I also thought to maybe retrofit one
of my existing jacks with a hydro pressure gauge (and I like the idea of
making it myself) but I can't find a place to tap into the jacks without
interfering with the clearances and mechanics of them (they are very small,
self contained pumps.) &nbsp;</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">If you have a source for this conversion,
I'll love that also!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks again!</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 08:04:15 2015
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF62BD247F.67DCC1F9-ON85257F27.003FCF83-85257F27.0044040A@mail.megageek.com>
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Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Am I getting this old already? (Shop content)
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I know it isn't as nice as what you are asking for, but depending on the 
weight, you could just use two or four bathroom scales.  Use your 
existing pallet jack to raise the pallet and put a scale on each side or 
at each corner then pull out the pallet jack.  Add the numbers and you 
are set.

If you don't want to do math, look for a set of vehicle scales from a 
racing place and they will give you the total plus corner weights.  
Scales that can do a car should have plenty of capacity for a pallet.

Brian

On 12/26/2015 3:55 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> I need a pallet jack with a built in scale.  The problem is that it 
> seems every single one with a non-electric dial indicator has been 
> removed from the earth.
> I don't want another battery to have to make sure is charged the few 
> times a year I need it.  I'm also willing to pay real money (if needed).

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 08:22:14 2015
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 <567EAA91.7040705@earthlink.net>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 09:59:27 -0500
 12/26/2015 09:59:04, Serialize complete at 12/26/2015 09:59:04
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Am I getting this old already? (Shop content)
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============0123400141332874720==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0054DC8F85257F27_=

Thanks for the thoughts, but I went down this path already. I have two 
large scales that I get the weight with now and I'm not getting consistent 
results (plus it's a pain to balance 1100 LBS pallets on them.)

As for the vehicle scales, I looked at them but I don't want to have to 
take up so much space (there are also dedicated pallet scales) and I don't 
want to have to bring the items to a place in the shop.
A pallet scale is the answer, and I may have to bite the bullet and get 
the digital one 8>(.  I just can't believe there isn't a single vender 
that sells them.

Thanks again


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




I know it isn't' as nice as what you are asking for, but depending on the 
weight, you could just use two or four bathroom scales.  Use your existing 
pallet jack to raise the pallet and put a scale on each side or at each 
corner then pull out the pallet jack.  Add the numbers and you are set.

If you don't want to do math, look for a set of vehicle scales from a 
racing place and they will give you the total plus corner weights.  Scales 
that can do a car should have plenty of capacity for a pallet.




--=_alternative 0054DC8F85257F27_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks for the thoughts, but I went down
this path already. I have two large scales that I get the weight with now
and I'm not getting consistent results (plus it's a pain to balance 1100
LBS pallets on them.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">As for the vehicle scales, I looked
at them but I don't want to have to take up so much space (there are also
dedicated pallet scales) and I don't want to have to bring the items to
a place in the shop.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">A pallet scale is the answer, and I
may have to bite the bullet and get the digital one 8&gt;(. &nbsp;I just
can't believe there isn't a single vender that sells them.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks again</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3>I know it isn't' as nice as what you are asking for, but
depending on the weight, you could just use two or four bathroom scales.&nbsp;
Use your existing pallet jack to raise the pallet and put a scale on each
side or at each corner then pull out the pallet jack.&nbsp; Add the numbers
and you are set.<br>
<br>
If you don't want to do math, look for a set of vehicle scales from a racing
place and they will give you the total plus corner weights.&nbsp; Scales
that can do a car should have plenty of capacity for a pallet.<br>
<br>
</font>
<br>
<br>
--=_alternative 0054DC8F85257F27_=--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: cold temp seam sealer
Thread-Index: AQHRP/Ei6UGBkqLi0kCbZmiZrNJpig==
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 15:29:37 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1540237937693502293==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB05038EFA5050D3ECF9F8AE0BB4F90CY1PR13MB0503namp_"

--_000_CY1PR13MB05038EFA5050D3ECF9F8AE0BB4F90CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi all,


I have a spot I want to at least temporarily seal until I can either replac=
e a rusty spot or more permanently seal it when the weather is warmer.


The other day when it was warmish (mid 50s) I tried to use silicon but it w=
on't cure as the temp is now closer to normal. This spot is next to the tru=
nk weather strip where the deck lid sits on my 99 Solara so will continue t=
o get exposed to water.


So, the question is if anyone has used a seam or metal sealant that will se=
al and cure in cold temperatures.


Thanks

tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB05038EFA5050D3ECF9F8AE0BB4F90CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Hi all, </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I have a spot I want to at least temporarily seal&nbsp;until I can eithe=
r replace a rusty spot or more permanently seal it when the weather is warm=
er.
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>The other day when it was warmish (mid 50s) I tried to use silicon but i=
t won't cure as the temp is now closer to normal.
<span id=3D"ms-rterangepaste-start"></span>This spot is next to the trunk w=
eather strip where the deck lid sits on my 99 Solara so will continue to ge=
t exposed to water.
<span id=3D"ms-rterangepaste-end"></span></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>So, the question is if anyone has used a seam or metal sealant that will=
 seal and cure in cold temperatures.
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks </p>
<p>tim<br>
</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_CY1PR13MB05038EFA5050D3ECF9F8AE0BB4F90CY1PR13MB0503namp_--

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Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 10:56:37 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Am I getting this old already?  (Shop content)
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5432741079415344596==
 boundary="Boundary_(ID_O8aoCx34NyWHBCnlyWavYw)"


--Boundary_(ID_O8aoCx34NyWHBCnlyWavYw)
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If you can't find want you want, make a point of checking on the 
battery requirements of the digital model.  I find that infrequently 
used items that require a couple of AA cells are not so bad.  It is 
the ones with the hard to find mystery cells that require a search 
all over town that are a pain.

That's one of my complaints with the rechargeable tools available 
today.  As years go by they stop holding a charge and the batteries 
get hard to find or it just stops being cost effective.  Meanwhile, I 
have plug-in tools that my father bought 50 years ago and they still 
work fine.

So there.  Now we both sound old.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net


At 06:55 AM 12/26/2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>I need a pallet jack with a built in scale.  The problem is that it 
>seems every single one with a non-electric dial indicator has been 
>removed from the earth.
>I don't want another battery to have to make sure is charged the few 
>times a year I need it.  I'm also willing to pay real money (if needed).

--Boundary_(ID_O8aoCx34NyWHBCnlyWavYw)
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

<html>
<body>
If you can't find want you want, make a point of checking on the battery
requirements of the digital model.&nbsp; I find that infrequently used
items that require a couple of AA cells are not so bad.&nbsp; It is the
ones with the hard to find mystery cells that require a search all over
town that are a pain.&nbsp; <br><br>
That's one of my complaints with the rechargeable tools available
today.&nbsp; As years go by they stop holding a charge and the batteries
get hard to find or it just stops being cost effective.&nbsp; Meanwhile,
I have plug-in tools that my father bought 50 years ago and they still
work fine.&nbsp; <br><br>
So there.&nbsp; Now we both sound old.  <br><br>
-Steve Trovato<br>
strovato@optonline.net<br><br>
<br>
At 06:55 AM 12/26/2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>I need a pallet
jack with a built in scale.&nbsp; The problem is that it seems every
single one with a non-electric dial indicator has been removed from the
earth.</font> <br>
<font size=2>I don't want another battery to have to make sure is charged
the few times a year I need it.&nbsp; I'm also willing to pay real money
(if needed).</font></blockquote></body>
</html>

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References: <OF62BD247F.67DCC1F9-ON85257F27.003FCF83-85257F27.0044040A@mail.megageek.com>
 <567EAA91.7040705@earthlink.net>
 <OFADD2D286.2E905516-ON85257F27.0051FAED-85257F27.0054DC8F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 11:13:40 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Am I getting this old already? (Shop content)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 9:59 AM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> I may have to bite the bullet and get the digital one 8>(.

You may be getting that old.  :)     I imagine that, as sad as it is
to consider, the market of a non-electronic pallet scale may be
limited to one guy, and he only uses it a few times a year.

You sure a set of portable vehicle scales, or three or four bathroom
scales from the Habitat ReStore, won't suffice for the few times you
use it?  I bet you're getting inconsistent results because you load is
shifting when balancing on two scales - three points would solve that
problem.

Or perhaps a rental jack?  Dunno if that's actually a
possibility...sounds like you may use the pallet jack a lot and the
weighing ability just a little?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Tim .'" <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 "'Shop  Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 10:35:48 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer
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> So, the question is if anyone has used a seam or metal 
> sealant that will seal and cure in cold temperatures. 

I've used JB Weld at 50F and it seemed to work OK.  Might have been slower to cure, but I left it overnight and it was hard in the
morning.  Their instructions don't give a minimum temperature where it will work, just say that it works faster above 10C (which is
50F).  Use fiberglass cloth if you need to bridge an opening or strength is important.

The other possibility is temporarily rigging a heat lamp to warm the area.

-- Randall

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 11:58:49 2015
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Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2015 10:59:49 -0800
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer
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         How about 3M Strip Caulk?
         <http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html?WT.mc_id=www.3m.com/product/information/Strip-Caulk.html>

         It's pretty pliable in cold temps, will handle exposure to 
water.  I assume it would stick to cold metal.  Maybe store it inside so 
it's warm and soft when you apply it.  Doesn't really "cure", so I don't 
think it's as sensitive to temperature.  If the surface it needs to stick 
to is rusty, a quick pass with a wire brush to get rid of the loose rust 
might help it stick to good metal.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       547,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 12:48:34 2015
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer
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On 12/26/2015 10:35 AM, Randall wrote:
>
>> So, the question is if anyone has used a seam or metal
>> sealant that will seal and cure in cold temperatures.

The other option, of course, and the approach I'd take, is to find a 
heat lamp or some obnoxiously hot halogen worklight and warm the metal 
and keep it warm (heat lamp, etc.) while the sealer cures.   If you've 
got one of those non-contact infrared pyrometers you can shoot for 
75degF surface temp, too hot and most sealers would get runny.

I like the 2-part SEM seam sealer, though I've always wondered: it 
requires its own applicator gun, but it looks like Simpson Strong-Tie 
foundation epoxy, comes out of the tube about the same consistency, 
cures in about the same time, has about the same flexibility once cured. 
  JB Weld might be an option, as would Smooth-On Metalset A4.

Make sure to get the damage completely clean on both inside and outside, 
sandblast or lots of wire-wheel attention plus some Rust-Mort then clean 
it again, apply the chosen adhesive, and force it through the hole and 
smear it flush on both sides.   I've done this with a reasonable degree 
of permanence on small, hidden areas of damage.

John.
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: cold temp seam sealer
Thread-Index: AQHRP/Ei6UGBkqLi0kCbZmiZrNJpip7eMslI
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2015 03:53:29 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6640575894718200801==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB050368DC9E9641FAABC13797B4FA0CY1PR13MB0503namp_"

--_000_CY1PR13MB050368DC9E9641FAABC13797B4FA0CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Todd suggested "3M Strip Caulk" .


I like this idea as it would be permanent. I will need to remove some of th=
is metal to stop the tin worm. For now I just need to stop the water gettin=
g into the boot through this failed seam.


thanks Todd!!

beers on me!


tim


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2015 9:29 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer


Hi all,


I have a spot I want to at least temporarily seal until I can either replac=
e a rusty spot or more permanently seal it when the weather is warmer.


The other day when it was warmish (mid 50s) I tried to use silicon but it w=
on't cure as the temp is now closer to normal. This spot is next to the tru=
nk weather strip where the deck lid sits on my 99 Solara so will continue t=
o get exposed to water.


So, the question is if anyone has used a seam or metal sealant that will se=
al and cure in cold temperatures.


Thanks

tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB050368DC9E9641FAABC13797B4FA0CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:=
 Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; background-color: rgb=
(255, 255, 255);">
<p>Todd suggested&nbsp;&quot;3M Strip Caulk&quot; . </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I like this idea as it would be permanent. I will need to remove some of=
 this metal to stop the tin worm. For now I just need to stop the water get=
ting into the boot through this failed seam.
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>thanks Todd!!</p>
<p>beers on me!</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>tim<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"width: 98%; display: inline-block;">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Calib=
ri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size: 11pt;"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-=
talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@ou=
tlook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 26, 2015 9:29 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] cold temp seam sealer</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:=
 Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; background-color: rgb=
(255, 255, 255);">
<p>Hi all, </p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>I have a spot I want to at least temporarily seal&nbsp;until I can eithe=
r replace a rusty spot or more permanently seal it when the weather is warm=
er.
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>The other day when it was warmish (mid 50s) I tried to use silicon but i=
t won't cure as the temp is now closer to normal. This spot is next to the =
trunk weather strip where the deck lid sits on my 99 Solara so will continu=
e to get exposed to water.
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>So, the question is if anyone has used a seam or metal sealant that will=
 seal and cure in cold temperatures.
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Thanks </p>
<p>tim<br>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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--===============6640575894718200801==
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--===============6640575894718200801==--

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 <567E0CC9.3040605@sackheads.org>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 12:41:42 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>,
 shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Seat Heaters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Dec 25, 2015 at 9:43 PM, Jimmie Mayfield
<mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org> wrote:
> Huh, I had no idea aftermarket seat-warmer kits existed and were safe.
> Maybe it's time to add heated seats to my 06 4Runner.  I wonder how well
> these kits will perform with cloth seats?
>\
>

I don't know about the kit, buy my passat has cloth seats, and seat
heaters.  They work fine.

>
>



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

