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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 09:12:10 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A while back I was asking about replacement bulbs or similar for the
halogen shop lights.  I never get more than a few hours of use of the
halogen bulbs before I have to replace them.

Last week I ordered one of these LED shop lights from Amazon and was
pleasantly surprised at how much light it put out.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072CK57C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I had it sitting side by side with one of my halogen lights and I would
estimate it was probably about 2/3s as bright as the halogen light.  I
don't know if my halogen was a 300 or 500 watt light but overall I was
impressed with the LED light output.

I liked it well enough that I ordered 3 more of them.  I don't know how
well they will stand up to abuse but I bet they won't be any worse than
halogen lights.

Just thought I'd pass on my observations.

Brad
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  1 09:36:47 2015
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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 11:13:30 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I sure hope there is a typo in the light's description on Amazon!  It says
that the lamp has 350 lumens of output.
A 60-watt incandescent light bulb puts out about 800 lumens.

Doug

On Thu, Oct 1, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> A while back I was asking about replacement bulbs or similar for the
> halogen shop lights.  I never get more than a few hours of use of the
> halogen bulbs before I have to replace them.
>
> Last week I ordered one of these LED shop lights from Amazon and was
> pleasantly surprised at how much light it put out.
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072CK57C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
>
> I had it sitting side by side with one of my halogen lights and I would
> estimate it was probably about 2/3s as bright as the halogen light.  I
> don't know if my halogen was a 300 or 500 watt light but overall I was
> impressed with the LED light output.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  1 09:37:48 2015
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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 11:17:12 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't know if it's a typo or not.  My test was to illuminate the empty
generator compartment on my motorhome.  I didn't notice much difference in
how bright the compartment seemed for each light.

Are these lights as bright as Halogen lights, no certainly not, but for
what I was looking for it seemed to fill the need quite nicely.

YMMV

Brad


On Thu, Oct 1, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> I sure hope there is a typo in the light's description on Amazon!  It says
> that the lamp has 350 lumens of output.
> A 60-watt incandescent light bulb puts out about 800 lumens.
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Oct 1, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> A while back I was asking about replacement bulbs or similar for the
>> halogen shop lights.  I never get more than a few hours of use of the
>> halogen bulbs before I have to replace them.
>>
>> Last week I ordered one of these LED shop lights from Amazon and was
>> pleasantly surprised at how much light it put out.
>>
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072CK57C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
>>
>> I had it sitting side by side with one of my halogen lights and I would
>> estimate it was probably about 2/3s as bright as the halogen light.  I
>> don't know if my halogen was a 300 or 500 watt light but overall I was
>> impressed with the LED light output.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  1 10:22:22 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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> I sure hope there is a typo in the light's description on 
> Amazon!  

If so, it's not Amazon's typo.  I found the same model at many other places, and they all list the same 350 lumens (except for one
that said 300 lumens).  Grainger says it only draws 6 watts, which would make the lumens/watt more or less in line with other
products.

http://www.grainger.com/product/DESIGNERS-EDGE-Temporary-Job-Site-Light-38EG65?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

-- Randall
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 09:29:39 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
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Just a thought, for those with a modicum of electronic skill:
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1362&doc_id=254910

As written, the light output is probably similar to the unit we've been discussing.  But I suspect it could be scaled up fairly
simply to use higher current LEDs, which are still fairly inexpensive.  Eg,
http://tinyurl.com/pcladh7

I've got an old floor lamp that I intend to try converting some day using this technique.  Mostly for fun, but might turn out to be
usable.

-- Randall  
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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 17:09:53 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Eddy current brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I'll start by saying this is not shop related, but it is similar to what is
used to brake saw blades.  And more importantly, until I fix it for my
wife, I wont' be spending much time in the shop!

We bought a commercial elliptical trainer in 2002 and it has worked
flawlessly until recently when it suddenly went to full resistance.
Everything appears to still work, it's just feels like it is at level 10
all the time, no matter what I set it to on the control panel.  I've taken
some pictures <https://goo.gl/photos/6aQZhUM9e3UuMZer9> for reference.

Brake - I believe is an eddy current brake that controls the resistance
Controller - is the circuit board and what looks like transformer
and an overall picture of the unit.
Bonus, added picture of the shop I am not in, but you can see the LED
replacement tube lights that I mentioned in prior posts.  The dimmer units
are the very old T12 FL tubes.  Seem to work well, but I need to replace
more of them.

I've reseated all of the connections on the elliptical to no avail.  I also
called the manufacturer, True Fitness, and all of the electrical parts are
obsolete and unavailable.  I would hate to throw it away because
1) it still works, it's just set on full resistance
2) a new one will mean I don't buy toys (or more lights) for the shop for a
while  :)

None of the capacitors appear to be leaking, which was my first thought
after a loose plug.  I don't believe I have the proper equipment to test
further than my multi-meter.  I'm guessing the circuit does pulse width
modulation for the brake.

For the most basic hack, I was thinking of putting a rheostat in the
circuit to the brake to see if I can manually adjust the resistance.  I
have no idea if that would work or what to buy.  There are only two leads
going to what looks like a magnet that I assume is an eddy current brake.

Any input is appreciated.

TIA,
Ian
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  1 16:17:50 2015
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Ian McFetridge'" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAFnfnRUObdkXkVYTVHcO3n7s=HCKPOz-TaqMOErCKPqeuWpThw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2015 16:47:47 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Eddy current brake
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Ian,

Any chance you know how the unit feels when it is turned off? It could be
either fully braked or totally free. I would expect it to be free. If so
the first thing I would do is to unplug the connector that connects the
brake to the circuit board. If the resistance is still the same, there is a
mechanical problem with the brake or a bearing around there.

If it is now free, there is an electrical control problem. Capacitors go bad
and it is not a big thing to just order replacements and solder them in. The
problem may be in the control panel rather than on the board in the photo
though. Things get more complex up there.

Let me know what you find.

Peace,
Pat 

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian
McFetridge
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2015 4:10 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Eddy current brake

Hi,

<snip>

None of the capacitors appear to be leaking, which was my first thought
after a loose plug.  I don't believe I have the proper equipment to test
further than my multi-meter.  I'm guessing the circuit does pulse width
modulation for the brake.

For the most basic hack, I was thinking of putting a rheostat in the circuit
to the brake to see if I can manually adjust the resistance.  I have no idea
if that would work or what to buy.  There are only two leads going to what
looks like a magnet that I assume is an eddy current brake.

Any input is appreciated.

TIA,
Ian
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  2 21:54:51 2015
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Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2015 22:36:27 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Probably a thing everyone already knew, except me,
 kitchen sink  division
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

the PVC pipe used for most residential sink traps is not-quite-opaque.
So if you shine a bright enough light (the 100ish lumen flashlight I
carry in my pocket is good enough) on it, you can see inside, and
quickly decide if the reason your sink is slow is because the trap is
full of crud, or the line after it is slow, or that your venting is
sub par.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct  3 09:15:31 2015
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 07:51:52 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] brushed vs. brushless cordless hammer drill
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I am in the market for a replacement hammer drill and am looking for 
opinions on stepping up to a brushless model.  I have existing Makita 
18V products and a fresh pair of 3 AH batteries, so am looking at a 
cordless version to be compatible.  Since I have batteries and a 
charger, the bare drill is an option.

I seem to get about 5 years out of a $30 corded Harbor Freight hammer 
drill, which is fair, but I'm tired of them dying when I need them.  I 
have a Harbor Freight SDS rotary hammer drill for bigger drilling, so 
really just want a good drill for more precision type holes in concrete 
and stucco.

I saw this $99 kit:
Makita XPH012 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2-Inch Hammer Driver-Drill 
Kit with One Battery

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH012-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Driver-Drill/dp/B00N9ULIAE/
and
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Kit-XPH012/205382798
It is basically a free drill, case, and newer charger for the price of a 
battery.  Reviews are really good.

I also say the $119 drill only:
Makita XPH06Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2" Hammer Driver 
Drill (Tool-Only)

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH06Z-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Tool-Only/dp/B00I30LJ6S/
and
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Tool-Only-XPH06Z/204961959

I like the details about the brushless motor being much better, but 
don't know how much of the product description is sales propaganda vs. 
brushless being that much better than the base model.  I also like the 
greater torque of the brushless.  I have one of the white Makita 18V 
drills and bog it down at times, so could use more power.

I also like the  Model XPH07Z with double the power, but don't want to 
break a wrist.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Brian
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct  3 10:30:30 2015
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References: <560FEB88.7030207@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 11:06:32 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] brushed vs. brushless cordless hammer drill
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I am in the market for a replacement hammer drill and am looking for
> opinions on stepping up to a brushless model.  I have existing Makita 18V
> products and a fresh pair of 3 AH batteries, so am looking at a cordless
> version to be compatible.  Since I have batteries and a charger, the bare
> drill is an option.
>

For $20 difference, get the brushless one.  LIghter, more powerful,
lasts longer.
It's a hammer drill, don't over think it...

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  8 20:46:06 2015
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2015 19:32:34 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] 7018 puddle
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Normally I weld with 6010 or 6013, and you don't have any trouble seeing 
the puddle with those rods.  I was practicing with some 1/8" 7018 today, 
and I was having a lot of trouble seeing the puddle because it seems the 
rod burns up into the flux coating, and the heavy flux makes it 
difficult to watch the puddle.  I think the other problem was I was 
running too cold.  I normally start 6010 and 6013 at around 100 amps for 
1/8" rod, but I think I need to crank it up to 120 or so with 7018.

Any tips on using 7018?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  9 14:19:12 2015
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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 15:19:37 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Water Barrel & Sump Pump
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Our place is on 10 acres about 35 miles NW of College Station. We decided
to use rainwater collection rather than spend something in the mid $20K
range to drill a well. The house has a shed roof and we built the primary
collection and filter system off the back of that.
it's working very well. Recently we put a roof on the front porch that
added another 300 square feet  of roof area, and we want to get the runoff
from that into the main system.

We already have guttering up and I'm thinking of taking a potable water
rated barrel of 50 gallons or so and running the water through a simple
screen filter going into that. Then I'll use a sump pump to get the water
into the main system ahead on the first flush filters. It would be going
around 20 to 25 feet and need to be pumped up to maybe 15 feet higher than
it is from where it starts.

Thoughts/suggestions? Figured it couldn't hurt to run the idea past the
list.

Thanks,
Ron
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  9 17:20:09 2015
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To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Drew Rogge <drew@DasRogges.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 16:14:23 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders
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Hi All,

Does anyone have any experience with the small 90 amp Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders? I'm thinking of getting one but I'm not sure if it's a total waste of money. I have a Lincoln TIG but recently had some experience with a MIG welder and found it pretty handy. Any idea how thick of metal can be welded with the 90 amp unit?

Thanks,
Drew

-- 
Drew Rogge
drew@dasrogges.com

Phone: 8934OOO629OO4829631OOOOOOO
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  9 17:35:46 2015
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Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 19:34:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Drew Rogge <drew@DasRogges.com>
References: <56184A4F.4020008@DasRogges.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders
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On Fri, 9 Oct 2015, Drew Rogge wrote:
> Does anyone have any experience with the small 90 amp Harbor Freight flux 
> core MIG welders? I'm thinking of getting one but I'm not sure if it's a 
> total waste of money. I have a Lincoln TIG but recently had some experience 
> with a MIG welder and found it pretty handy. Any idea how thick of metal can 
> be welded with the 90 amp unit?

    The rule of thumb is amps * .001", so .090" would be your approximate 
maximum thickness with that unit.  I wouldn't call it a total waste of 
money, but it'd have fairly limited utility for most.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  9 18:50:19 2015
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, "Dave Cavanaugh"
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References: <56172742.1010606@frontier.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 20:42:23 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 7018 puddle
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Might find your answer here: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/  Even if 
you don't, it is a useful site. He sends out weekly videos on various 
welding topics.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Cavanaugh" <cavanadd@frontier.com>
To: "Shop Talk List" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2015 10:32 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] 7018 puddle


> Normally I weld with 6010 or 6013, and you don't have any trouble seeing 
> the puddle with those rods.  I was practicing with some 1/8" 7018 today, 
> and I was having a lot of trouble seeing the puddle because it seems the 
> rod burns up into the flux coating, and the heavy flux makes it difficult 
> to watch the puddle.  I think the other problem was I was running too 
> cold.  I normally start 6010 and 6013 at around 100 amps for 1/8" rod, but 
> I think I need to crank it up to 120 or so with 7018.
>
> Any tips on using 7018?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  9 19:20:45 2015
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To: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
References: <56184A4F.4020008@DasRogges.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1510091931370.97212@itonami.pair.com>
From: Drew Rogge <drew@DasRogges.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 18:15:34 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders
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Thanks David. This is pretty much the same rule I use with my TIG.

On 10/9/15 4:34 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> On Fri, 9 Oct 2015, Drew Rogge wrote:
>> Does anyone have any experience with the small 90 amp Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders? I'm thinking of getting one but I'm not sure if it's a total waste of money. I have a Lincoln TIG but recently had some experience with a MIG welder and found it pretty handy. Any idea how thick of metal can be welded with the 90 amp unit?
>
>    The rule of thumb is amps * .001", so .090" would be your approximate maximum thickness with that unit.  I wouldn't call it a total waste of money, but it'd have fairly limited utility for most.
>
> -- 
>  David Hillman

-- 
Drew Rogge
drew@dasrogges.com

Phone: 8934OOO629OO4829631OOOOOOO
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To: sentenac.rw@gmail.com
References: <56184A4F.4020008@DasRogges.com>
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From: Drew Rogge <drew@DasRogges.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2015 18:18:17 -0700
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Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders
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Thanks Roland. I'm mainly interested in this for things like tacking sheet metal and welding .125 wall DOM steel and steel tubing.

On 10/9/15 5:19 PM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote:
> Drew,
> Flux core MIG welding is basically stick welding with a handy wire
> feed.  It is not what is usually meant by MIG.  Real MIG uses
> shielding gas, which is a lot cleaner, no flux to chip away between
> passes.  Flux core welding works well in outdoor windy conditions
> where the shielding gas gets blown away before it can do its thing
> (same as with TIG).
>
> Before you buy a flux core welder make sure that you want what it can
> do.  Your Lincoln TIG can probably do a better job of stick welding
> than the flux core can, by the way, but the wire feed is nice.
>
> -Roland
>
>
> On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 16:14:23 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Does anyone have any experience with the small 90 amp Harbor Freight flux core MIG welders? I'm thinking of getting one but I'm not sure if it's a total waste of money. I have a Lincoln TIG but recently had some experience with a MIG welder and found it pretty handy. Any idea how thick of metal can be welded with the 90 amp unit?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Drew

-- 
Drew Rogge
drew@dasrogges.com

Phone: 8934OOO629OO4829631OOOOOOO
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 10:31:47 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Connecting a remote tank to main system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We're using rainwater collection at our place. The original setup is pretty
straight forward, guttering off of a shed roof with several levels of
initial filtering before the water goes into the tank farm with main
filtering and treatment between the tanks and the feed line into the house.
Recently we added an additional 300 square foot roof on the porch and I
want to collect and get the water from the porch roof into the system.

I'm thinking I should be able to collect this water in a decorative barrel
or tank and pump it into the main line, preferably ahead of the first flush
filters. This would involve pumping the water around 35 feet horizontally
from the front of the house to the back and up maybe 12 to 15 feet.

Shouldn't I be able to use a sump pump to accomplish this? Are there models
rated for potable water. I'm doing on-line research but I thought I'd throw
the question out to the group, too. However I accomplish this I plan on
doing something similar on a large shop I'll have built not too far from
the house. Collect the water in a smaller tank using a series of screening
and filtering methods, then pump it into the main tanks.

Thoughts, ideas, questions?

Thanks,
Ron
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 14:10:16 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 12:57:17 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Connecting a remote tank to main system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Interesting question.  I have often wondered about using electric pumps in
a rainwater collection system.  From my point of view, this doesn't make
sense.  Or at least it would not make sense where I am.  I already have a
well with an electric pump that pulls filtered rainwater out of the
ground.  A rainwater collection system doesn't really buy me anything
unless I can avoid using the pump somehow.  So my system collects rainwater
off the house and stores it for drip irrigation of the garden.  100%
gravity fed, no pump at all.  This prevents me from having to run the well
pump when I want to water the garden.  But as soon as I add an electric
pump to the mix, it kind of looses the benefit for me.

On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 10:31 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:

> We're using rainwater collection at our place. The original setup is pretty
> straight forward, guttering off of a shed roof with several levels of
> initial filtering before the water goes into the tank farm with main
> filtering and treatment between the tanks and the feed line into the house.
> Recently we added an additional 300 square foot roof on the porch and I
> want to collect and get the water from the porch roof into the system.
>
> I'm thinking I should be able to collect this water in a decorative barrel
> or tank and pump it into the main line, preferably ahead of the first flush
> filters. This would involve pumping the water around 35 feet horizontally
> from the front of the house to the back and up maybe 12 to 15 feet.
>
> Shouldn't I be able to use a sump pump to accomplish this? Are there models
> rated for potable water. I'm doing on-line research but I thought I'd throw
> the question out to the group, too. However I accomplish this I plan on
> doing something similar on a large shop I'll have built not too far from
> the house. Collect the water in a smaller tank using a series of screening
> and filtering methods, then pump it into the main tanks.
>
> Thoughts, ideas, questions?
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 17:55:48 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 15:30:35 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Connecting a remote tank to main system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know about sump pumps, but there's lots of choices for potable
water "transfer" pumps.  Northern Tool has some 12V ones pretty cheap.
Head pressure was 40' or so, more than enough for what you need.  Around
here (Indiana) asphalt shingle roofs come pretreated with a fungicide, is
that something to worry about if you capture the runoff for drinking water?

Ben.....

On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 11:31 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:

> We're using rainwater collection at our place. The original setup is pretty
> straight forward, guttering off of a shed roof with several levels of
> initial filtering before the water goes into the tank farm with main
> filtering and treatment between the tanks and the feed line into the house.
> Recently we added an additional 300 square foot roof on the porch and I
> want to collect and get the water from the porch roof into the system.
>
> I'm thinking I should be able to collect this water in a decorative barrel
> or tank and pump it into the main line, preferably ahead of the first flush
> filters. This would involve pumping the water around 35 feet horizontally
> from the front of the house to the back and up maybe 12 to 15 feet.
>
> Shouldn't I be able to use a sump pump to accomplish this? Are there models
> rated for potable water. I'm doing on-line research but I thought I'd throw
> the question out to the group, too. However I accomplish this I plan on
> doing something similar on a large shop I'll have built not too far from
> the house. Collect the water in a smaller tank using a series of screening
> and filtering methods, then pump it into the main tanks.
>
> Thoughts, ideas, questions?
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 14:52:31 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Connecting a remote tank to main system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I probably should clarify that the rainwater collection setup is all that
we have and that both roofs are bright aluminum corrugated sheet metal. The
original system been working fine for over a year. We choose to go this
route rather than spend in the mid $20K range to have a well drilled. I am
finding more info online and there are a number of suppliers of components
and complete systems within a couple of hours of us.

Of course you can never have too much storage either. Long term I'm
planning a metal shop building not too far from the house and we'll be
collecting off of it, too. Probably will go with a 2550 gallon tank and a
complete first flush setup, then pump from that tank into the main tank
farm closer to the house as needed.

Since we're roughly 25 miles NW of College Station long term freezing
weather really isn't an issue which makes the whole thing much simpler.

RD

On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 2:30 PM, Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I don't know about sump pumps, but there's lots of choices for potable
> water "transfer" pumps.  Northern Tool has some 12V ones pretty cheap.
> Head pressure was 40' or so, more than enough for what you need.  Around
> here (Indiana) asphalt shingle roofs come pretreated with a fungicide, is
> that something to worry about if you capture the runoff for drinking water?
>
> Ben.....
>
> On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 11:31 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> We're using rainwater collection at our place. The original setup is
>> pretty
>> straight forward, guttering off of a shed roof with several levels of
>> initial filtering before the water goes into the tank farm with main
>> filtering and treatment between the tanks and the feed line into the
>> house.
>> Recently we added an additional 300 square foot roof on the porch and I
>> want to collect and get the water from the porch roof into the system.
>>
>> I'm thinking I should be able to collect this water in a decorative barrel
>> or tank and pump it into the main line, preferably ahead of the first
>> flush
>> filters. This would involve pumping the water around 35 feet horizontally
>> from the front of the house to the back and up maybe 12 to 15 feet.
>>
>> Shouldn't I be able to use a sump pump to accomplish this? Are there
>> models
>> rated for potable water. I'm doing on-line research but I thought I'd
>> throw
>> the question out to the group, too. However I accomplish this I plan on
>> doing something similar on a large shop I'll have built not too far from
>> the house. Collect the water in a smaller tank using a series of screening
>> and filtering methods, then pump it into the main tanks.
>>
>> Thoughts, ideas, questions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ron
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rats!
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So I am renting a plot at a community garden around the corner. Turns out we have a bit of a rat problem.
Saw one last evening while weeding my plot. Any innovative suggestions for curbing the rat population?
I'd like to get a big python to slither around, but that may not be an option.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 19:06:29 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>, shop-talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Connecting a remote tank to main system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 10:31 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:
> We're using rainwater collection at our place. The original setup is pretty
> straight forward, guttering off of a shed roof with several levels of
> initial filtering before the water goes into the tank farm with main
> filtering and treatment between the tanks and the feed line into the house.
> Recently we added an additional 300 square foot roof on the porch and I
> want to collect and get the water from the porch roof into the system.
>
> I'm thinking I should be able to collect this water in a decorative barrel
> or tank and pump it into the main line, preferably ahead of the first flush
> filters. This would involve pumping the water around 35 feet horizontally
> from the front of the house to the back and up maybe 12 to 15 feet.
>
> Shouldn't I be able to use a sump pump to accomplish this? Are there models
> rated for potable water. I'm doing on-line research but I thought I'd throw
> the question out to the group, too. However I accomplish this I plan on
> doing something similar on a large shop I'll have built not too far from
> the house. Collect the water in a smaller tank using a series of screening
> and filtering methods, then pump it into the main tanks.
>

That's well within the capabilities of a sump pump (you'd size based
on the capacity in gallons per minute required; 1 inch on 300 square
feet is a bit more than 180 gallons, so an inch an hour rain would
require a pump that could do 3 gpm, which is 1/4 hp range, I think.).
Whether you can get a sump pump that's rated for potable water, I
don't know.  But this seems like it would something that's common with
rainwater systems, so if they're common where you are, it shouldn't be
too hard to find a supply house that knows what you need.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.14.1445277603.11715.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 17:23:19 -0700
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I haven't seen a sump pump that was drinking water rated.  Not that they 
aren't out there but none I've seen.  If you do find one please post a link.

But you could easily make it with a rated level switch:
http://www.amazon.com/Float-Switch-Septic-System-Sump/dp/B0064BHEVM/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0F224EFS1Q9Z1PGCS5R9&dpID=417j3p8rq5L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

and your choice of pump

Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com

On 10/19/2015 11:00 AM, shop-talk-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
>
> We're using rainwater collection at our place. The original setup is pretty
> straight forward, guttering off of a shed roof with several levels of
> initial filtering before the water goes into the tank farm with main
> filtering and treatment between the tanks and the feed line into the house.
> Recently we added an additional 300 square foot roof on the porch and I
> want to collect and get the water from the porch roof into the system.
>
> I'm thinking I should be able to collect this water in a decorative barrel
> or tank and pump it into the main line, preferably ahead of the first flush
> filters. This would involve pumping the water around 35 feet horizontally
> from the front of the house to the back and up maybe 12 to 15 feet.
>
> Shouldn't I be able to use a sump pump to accomplish this? Are there models
> rated for potable water. I'm doing on-line research but I thought I'd throw
> the question out to the group, too. However I accomplish this I plan on
> doing something similar on a large shop I'll have built not too far from
> the house. Collect the water in a smaller tank using a series of screening
> and filtering methods, then pump it into the main tanks.
>
> Thoughts, ideas, questions?
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 20:44:31 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Rat terrier, or cats.
On Oct 19, 2015 8:43 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> So I am renting a plot at a community garden around the corner. Turns out
> we have a bit of a rat problem.
> Saw one last evening while weeding my plot. Any innovative suggestions for
> curbing the rat population?
> I'd like to get a big python to slither around, but that may not be an
> option.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <56255AF2.2020209@bradakis.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 21:46:04 -0400
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Ultrasonics but I don't know how you would power them.

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2015 5:05 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rats!

So I am renting a plot at a community garden around the corner. Turns out we
have a bit of a rat problem.
Saw one last evening while weeding my plot. Any innovative suggestions for
curbing the rat population?
I'd like to get a big python to slither around, but that may not be an
option.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc@lotusowners.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 20:16:21 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 19:12:14 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Mark wrote:
>So I am renting a plot at a community garden around the corner. Turns out 
>we have a bit of a rat problem.
>Saw one last evening while weeding my plot. Any innovative suggestions for 
>curbing the rat population?
>I'd like to get a big python to slither around, but that may not be an option.

         http://doityourselfpestcontrol.com/

         I have the Protecta Bait stations with Contrac Blox bait.  The 
stations keep the bait away from kids and pets.  The bait kills 'em deader 
than a doornail.  One feeding does it, turns my property into a dead zone - 
rats show up, never to come back.  And I don't have to deal with seeing 
dead rats or disposing of them - they die out of my sight.

         Contrac Blox is only available on the site in 18lb 
buckets.  Federal law restricts sale of the 4lb pails, but there are 
sellers on eBay that'll sell them anyway.  4lbs lasts me for more than a 
year, with 6 stations around my house.  There are other baits available 
that can be sold in 4lb pails.

         If you don't like poisoning the bastards, the stations will take a 
certain brand of reusable snap traps.  I like the bait because a trap only 
gets one rat, the bait keeps working 24/7 killing everyone that shows up.

Todd the rat killer
_______________________________________________

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <56255AF2.2020209@bradakis.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 19:21:30 -0700
Thread-Index: AdEK2KeC/Xno0CotQDiwGp3LWzVDRQAA9DLg
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
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Cats!

Seriously, traps are the way to go if you can place them to avoid pets and
kids.  In the neighborhood you need to avoid poisons especially with pets
and kids around.  You may be successful with the humane non-lethal kind.
You can always lethal-ize them later on.

A developer took down and greenhouse and sheep pasture a few years back and
we had an immediate infestation in the house.  I placed traps and used
cheese, salami and some other foods.  The salami traps accounted for 80% of
the kills, sometimes three times a day, so that is what I suggest as
non-poison bait.  

Mark, are the rats causing an issue in the garden or just present?

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2015 2:05 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rats!

So I am renting a plot at a community garden around the corner. Turns out we
have a bit of a rat problem.
Saw one last evening while weeding my plot. Any innovative suggestions for
curbing the rat population?
I'd like to get a big python to slither around, but that may not be an
option.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 20:37:40 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 22:37:23 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
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Do rats eat vegetables?
Or are they essentially bald-tailed squirrels?

Where I live, the deer eat most of the vegetables...

Doug
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 22:24:04 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
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On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:12 PM, Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com> wrote:

>
>         Contrac Blox is only available on the site in 18lb buckets.  Federal
> law restricts sale of the 4lb pails, but there are sellers on eBay that'll
> sell them anyway.  4lbs lasts me for more than a year, with 6 stations
> around my house.  There are other baits available that can be sold in 4lb
> pails.

Is there a reason for that?  That seems sort of nuts. I can buy 16
pounds of the stuff, but not 4?  Having to drop 80 bucks instead of 20
is going to keep me from using it wrong?

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 21:56:11 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 20:43:11 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 mail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
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David wrote:

>Is there a reason for that?  That seems sort of nuts. I can buy 16
>pounds of the stuff, but not 4?  Having to drop 80 bucks instead of 20
>is going to keep me from using it wrong?

         It's the Feds, nothing they do makes sense.  Probably just a bunch 
of ineffectual middle management suckups sitting around making new regs 
just to justify their paychecks.

         All it said on the site was "Due to the EPA regulations passed on 
June 4, 2011, Contrac Blox can now only be sold in at least 16 pounds, 
which is why we have to sell the 4lb pail by the case."  I get my 4lb pails 
on eBay, or there are other baits that can be sold in smaller quanitities.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       538,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 19 22:33:23 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 23:31:22 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rats!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 10:24 PM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:12 PM, Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>         Contrac Blox is only available on the site in 18lb buckets.
Federal
>> law restricts sale of the 4lb pails, but there are sellers on eBay that'll
>> sell them anyway.  4lbs lasts me for more than a year, with 6 stations
>> around my house.  There are other baits available that can be sold in 4lb
>> pails.
>
> Is there a reason for that?  That seems sort of nuts. I can buy 16
> pounds of the stuff, but not 4?  Having to drop 80 bucks instead of 20
> is going to keep me from using it wrong?
>

So I found the regulation in question:

 http://www.regulations.gov/contentStreamer?documentId=EPA-HQ-OPP-2006-0955-0
764&disposition=attachment&contentType=pdf

which says, among much else,

b" To reduce wildlife exposures and ecological risks, the Agency will
require sale and distribution limits intended to prevent general
consumers from purchasing residential use bait products containing
four of the ten rodenticides that pose the greatest risk to wildlife
(the second generation anticoagulants b brodifacoum, bromadiolone,
difenacoum, and difethialone). Moreover, bait stations will be
required for all outdoor, above-ground uses of these second
generation- anticoagulants.

there's also discussion that you're not going to be able to get it the
grocery store or hardware store because they won't stock stuff that
big, and that agricultural and industrial users will have access to
them.

Not at all incidentally, the same RMD prohibits non-professional use
in residential settings.  (The concern is that the vermin will eat
super-lethal doses, and then be eaten by something else, and that
something else is poisoned.  That's not considered a risk in other
settings because of greater availability of other food sources.)

--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 22 15:02:27 2015
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 15:56:29 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Top Gear
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Just heard that Amazon has hired the the three Presenters  from the former
British TV show Top Gear and will be producing a new show for its online
Amazon Prime video  service.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 11:59:03 2015
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 17:49:17 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] network mechanics
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 This may ultimately result in getting wifi out in the shop...I recall
previous discussion on this but didn't save it.  The wife is kicking my
workstation out of the kitchen and into an office on the second floor.Our
cable comes into the house in the kitchen and the cable modem is there with
our current router.I am planning to buy a box of cable and fish some 5e up to
connect the computer - less than 50 feet.It occurs to me that I have a couple
of old b/g routers available, can I simply daisy chain them with the same SSID
& password?If so, I think I will run a longer cable (100')  and put a router
out on the gable end - that should provide plenty of signal in the shop. Any
thoughts or guidance?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 17:17:02 2015
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 19:17:38 -0400
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Mouse traps/poison
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I keep a couple of mousetraps locked and loaded at all times in my
basement/garage (old ranch house that basically has a drive-in basement).  I
rarely catch anything during warm weather, but probably get 3-4 mice/week when
it is cold out.  With fall just coming to Long Island, I am catching about 1
per week at the moment.

The traps work well overall and are pretty simple to use: I just toss the dead
mice in the field across the street, re-set the trap and wait for the next
one.  The fact that I have never seen any evidence of them in the living
quarters suggest to me that I have been successful at keeping them from
settling in.  However, I am shortly going to be leaving town for a couple of
weeks and donbt want to leave the traps set while I am gone, least I return
to a rotting mess.  On the other hand, I am not wild about leaving the house
bunprotectedb either.

That leaves two options, at least as far as I know: nothing or poison.  I have
been afraid of mouse poison ever since a friend of mine had one die inside the
wall of his house, although that was a long time ago.  I understand that the
poison is supposed to send them outside to seek water, but canbt imagine
that is foolproof.  Am I worrying too much about a problem a neighbor had
decades ago?  Does anyone here have recent positive or negative experience
with poison, or other recommendations for me?

Thanks.

Jim

p.s.  My shop is currently in the basement. J
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 17:46:06 2015
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Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 16:42:09 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 localhost.pops.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mouse traps/poison
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In case you didn't see my post of couple of days ago about rats:

         http://doityourselfpestcontrol.com/

         I have the Protecta Bait stations with Contrac Blox bait.  The 
stations keep the bait away from kids and pets.  The bait kills 'em deader 
than a doornail.  One feeding does it, turns my property into a dead zone - 
rats show up, never to come back.  And I don't have to deal with seeing 
dead rats or disposing of them - they die out of my sight.

         Contrac Blox is only available on the site in 18lb 
buckets.  Federal law restricts sale of the 4lb pails, but there are 
sellers on eBay that'll sell them anyway.  4lbs lasts me for more than a 
year, with 6 stations around my house.  There are other baits available 
that can be sold in 4lb pails.
	Most baits have a small risk of secondary poisoning (cat/dog eating a dead 
mouse).  Typically, there is a time window for treatment, with many 
antidotes easily available at a vet.

         If you don't like poisoning the bastards, the stations will take a 
certain brand of reusable snap traps.  I like the bait because a trap only 
gets one rat, the bait keeps working 24/7 killing everyone that shows up.

	Twice in 7 years I've actually seen a dead rat in the garage.  Mostly they 
eat the bait, go home to their burrow and die there, many times feeding 
bait to their young which kills them too.

	The site also has "multiple catch" traps.  Basically, it's box that mice 
get into and can't get out of.  They'll catch a dozen or more at a time.
	They also have glue boards, live catch traps, disposable traps, etc.  All 
sort of great stuff for killing rodents and many other pests too.

Todd the rat killer
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 18:01:01 2015
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20151026.134917.18934.4@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 16:51:50 -0700
Thread-Index: AdEQGBgYk1brFxPkR6uMebAj9XrWmgAL91WQ
 FILETIME=[49F07F10:01D11049]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Matt,

I am no expert, but I was working through the same issue, as I had another
router (/Belkin) lying around.  What I determined, with their tech support,
was that you can program the second router with the same SSID/password, but
when you are connected to one router and move to another area, your device
will likely "hold onto" the first router as the signal gets weaker and
weaker until the signal is lost.  It will then seek and find the closer
router.  

The path they suggested was to purchase a range extender instead.  I chose
not to do this, as I was looking to use the spare equipment to improve the
marginal signal in one small area and it was not worth the money to buy a
new device.  

I am sure someone with real knowledge will chime in shortly,

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:49 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] network mechanics

 This may ultimately result in getting wifi out in the shop...I recall
previous discussion on this but didn't save it.  The wife is kicking my
workstation out of the kitchen and into an office on the second floor.Our
cable comes into the house in the kitchen and the cable modem is there with
our current router.I am planning to buy a box of cable and fish some 5e up
to
connect the computer - less than 50 feet.It occurs to me that I have a
couple
of old b/g routers available, can I simply daisy chain them with the same
SSID
& password?If so, I think I will run a longer cable (100')  and put a router
out on the gable end - that should provide plenty of signal in the shop. Any
thoughts or guidance?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 18:15:22 2015
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Jack Brooks'" <JIBrooks@Live.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20151026.134917.18934.4@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
 <BLU436-SMTP21331C019D3666FD42A1B54A8230@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 20:08:57 -0400
Thread-Index: AQHREBgv0aB4HSnki0CI96kxBzg5Sp5+cl8AgAADX2A=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys, I do this all day every day. What you want is Ubiquiti UniFi Long
Range Access Point

Get it Amazon or Newegg.

We install a lot of these and the range is unbelievable. Use your router for
wired and disable the wireless.  Then use the Unifi for your wireless. Plus
they have a lot of cool new products for transmitting wireless signals over
distance.

Great product. In the past year we have installed more than 75 of these.

Tony Vaccaro
www.lotusowners.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack
Brooks
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 7:52 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics

Matt,

I am no expert, but I was working through the same issue, as I had another
router (/Belkin) lying around.  What I determined, with their tech support,
was that you can program the second router with the same SSID/password, but
when you are connected to one router and move to another area, your device
will likely "hold onto" the first router as the signal gets weaker and
weaker until the signal is lost.  It will then seek and find the closer
router.  

The path they suggested was to purchase a range extender instead.  I chose
not to do this, as I was looking to use the spare equipment to improve the
marginal signal in one small area and it was not worth the money to buy a
new device.  

I am sure someone with real knowledge will chime in shortly,

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:49 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] network mechanics

 This may ultimately result in getting wifi out in the shop...I recall
previous discussion on this but didn't save it.  The wife is kicking my
workstation out of the kitchen and into an office on the second floor.Our
cable comes into the house in the kitchen and the cable modem is there with
our current router.I am planning to buy a box of cable and fish some 5e up
to connect the computer - less than 50 feet.It occurs to me that I have a
couple of old b/g routers available, can I simply daisy chain them with the
same SSID & password?If so, I think I will run a longer cable (100')  and
put a router out on the gable end - that should provide plenty of signal in
the shop. Any thoughts or guidance?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc@lotusowners.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 18:30:30 2015
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <20151026.134917.18934.4@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 20:24:00 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.3.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There shouldn't  be any problems with multiple access points on the same 
network with the same SSID/password.  Just make sure you configure the 
additional devices to operate as access points and not routers (you 
don't want multiple routers handing out IP addresses).  Modern WIFI 
clients are smart enough to seamlessly switch between access points as 
you move around your house/yard/workshop (not unlike the way your 
cellphone (generally) seamlessly switches between towers).

You mentioned using some old B/G routers as your access points. That's 
fine.  I assume this means that you've upgraded your network to N or one 
of the newer ACxxxx flavors.  If that's the case then be aware that 
mixing 2.4ghz B/G devices and 2.4ghz N devices on the same network can 
cause performance problems (obviously anything operating on 5ghz 
frequencies will be unaffected).  Whether or not you'll be affected by 
this depends on the client devices you'll be using (phones, tablets, 
laptops, etc) and what kind of network activity they perform.  If your 
devices are just checking mail for the most part then you probably won't 
notice.  If you're streaming video, then you might need to rethink things.

(By the way, if your B/G routers are old, you might want to check if 
there exists a third party firmware image from the likes of DD-WRT, 
OpenWRT or Tomato.  These firmwares tend to be far more full-featured 
and more secure than OEM.)

On 10/26/15 13:49, Matt wrote:
>   This may ultimately result in getting wifi out in the shop...I recall
> previous discussion on this but didn't save it.  The wife is kicking my
> workstation out of the kitchen and into an office on the second floor.Our
> cable comes into the house in the kitchen and the cable modem is there with
> our current router.I am planning to buy a box of cable and fish some 5e up to
> connect the computer - less than 50 feet.It occurs to me that I have a couple
> of old b/g routers available, can I simply daisy chain them with the same SSID
> & password?If so, I think I will run a longer cable (100')  and put a router
> out on the gable end - that should provide plenty of signal in the shop. Any
> thoughts or guidance?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 18:30:54 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 19:59:59 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/26/2015 19:59:42, Serialize complete at
 10/26/2015 19:59:43, Serialize by Router on DOGBERT2/Megageek(Release
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/26/2015 19:59:43
Subject: [Shop-talk] Poisons and mice/rats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't say enough good stuff about "TomCat" baits.  I get them at Tractor 
Supply.

They are green blocks that go in bait stations, but since I only put them 
in attics/basements/garages without any animals, I just chuck them in 
corners or behind things.

Takes care of the problem.  I never had anything die inside a wall.

Note, I do have stay cats and house cats that never had any problem with 
this method.



Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 20:03:40 2015
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 22:04:17 -0400
References: <OFEA5DC6EA.328F1BE5-ON85257EEA.00839917-85257EEB.00025748@mail.megageek.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Poisons and mice/rats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Eric.  It is good to hear from someone who has had positive experience
with a readily available alternative.  We are currently pet-less, so that
makes things easier.

And thanks also, Todd.  I had seen your post earlier about rat control, but
didnbt think it was relevant, as I wasnbt planning on trying to eliminate
them before they came in the house.  However, I just took at look at
doyourownpestcontrol.com <http://doyourownpestcontrol.com/> and see that there
is a wealth of information there that can help.  I will spend a little time
reviewing what is there and either go with one of their solutions or simply
pick up some of the TomCat bait.  Either way, the house should be well
protected when webre gone!

Thanks again,

Jim


> On Oct 26, 2015, at 7:59 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> I can't say enough good stuff about "TomCat" baits.  I get them at Tractor
Supply.
>
> They are green blocks that go in bait stations, but since I only put them in
attics/basements/garages without any animals, I just chuck them in corners or
behind things.
>
> Takes care of the problem.  I never had anything die inside a wall.
>
> Note, I do have stay cats and house cats that never had any problem with
this method.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 20:20:38 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 19:21:21 -0700
Thread-Index: AdEQTt/gcZWF+EmvSsOdakm7C3HP5QADWx5Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Poisons and mice/rats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I can't say enough good stuff about "TomCat" baits.  I get 
> them at Tractor 
> Supply.
> 
> They are green blocks that go in bait stations, but since I 
> only put them 
> in attics/basements/garages without any animals, I just chuck them in 
> corners or behind things.
> 
> Takes care of the problem.  I never had anything die inside a wall.

Me too.  But they weren't in the walls, just the attic and garage and sheds.  Probably roof rats instead of Norway rats.

I did find one in a cardboard box in the garage, where it had made a nest in a carpet kit for my old Triumph.  Didn't matter, the
carpet was already ruined by the rat, even before it died.

Haven't seen any signs of another rat since putting out the TomCat baits, though.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 26 22:16:53 2015
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20151026.134917.18934.4@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
 <BLU436-SMTP21331C019D3666FD42A1B54A8230@phx.gbl>
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Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2015 21:12:43 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHREBgv0aB4HSnki0CI96kxBzg5Sp5+cl8AgAADX2CAAERWkA==
 FILETIME=[BE58DEF0:01D1106D]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tony,

Have you found a similar device for 802.11AC?

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Vaccaro [mailto:tvacc@lotusowners.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 5:09 PM
To: 'Jack Brooks'; shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] network mechanics

Guys, I do this all day every day. What you want is Ubiquiti UniFi Long
Range Access Point

Get it Amazon or Newegg.

We install a lot of these and the range is unbelievable. Use your router for
wired and disable the wireless.  Then use the Unifi for your wireless. Plus
they have a lot of cool new products for transmitting wireless signals over
distance.

Great product. In the past year we have installed more than 75 of these.

Tony Vaccaro
www.lotusowners.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack
Brooks
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 7:52 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics

Matt,

I am no expert, but I was working through the same issue, as I had another
router (/Belkin) lying around.  What I determined, with their tech support,
was that you can program the second router with the same SSID/password, but
when you are connected to one router and move to another area, your device
will likely "hold onto" the first router as the signal gets weaker and
weaker until the signal is lost.  It will then seek and find the closer
router.  

The path they suggested was to purchase a range extender instead.  I chose
not to do this, as I was looking to use the spare equipment to improve the
marginal signal in one small area and it was not worth the money to buy a
new device.  

I am sure someone with real knowledge will chime in shortly,

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:49 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] network mechanics

 This may ultimately result in getting wifi out in the shop...I recall
previous discussion on this but didn't save it.  The wife is kicking my
workstation out of the kitchen and into an office on the second floor.Our
cable comes into the house in the kitchen and the cable modem is there with
our current router.I am planning to buy a box of cable and fish some 5e up
to connect the computer - less than 50 feet.It occurs to me that I have a
couple of old b/g routers available, can I simply daisy chain them with the
same SSID & password?If so, I think I will run a longer cable (100')  and
put a router out on the gable end - that should provide plenty of signal in
the shop. Any thoughts or guidance?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc@lotusowners.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 27 16:05:41 2015
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To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>, Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 18:00:59 -0400
References: <C43654A0-CBF0-4886-8AD4-9C29F7CF677A@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mouse traps/poison
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought the lifetime supply of Contrac (18# pail) a few years ago and have
made sure my (heated) garage is well baited in the corners  and along walls
where nothing but mice have seen for a decade.   Ibve not seen a mouse, nor
had any smells, but have noticed bait blocks mostly eaten.  Bait is not
accessible to my large dogs and I watch them carefully when we are in or
around the garage, theybve shown no interest in baited areas.
No signs of mice anywhere in house or garage (except for eaten bait blocks in
garage), including in my winter stored MGA.
What prompted my purchase of the pail is having my AC fail in 90* weather only
to find mama mouse laid out across the terminals of the start/run capacitor
for the motor.  Block placed in elec box (with new cap) has prevented further
inhabitants.
IMO properly placed bait blocks would be the solution.

Just my experience, hth.
gb




From: Jim Stone
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 4:27 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Mouse traps/poison


I keep a couple of mousetraps locked and loaded at all times in my
basement/garage (old ranch house that basically has a drive-in basement).  I
rarely catch anything during warm weather, but probably get 3-4 mice/week
when
it is cold out.  With fall just coming to Long Island, I am catching about 1
per week at the moment.

The traps work well overall and are pretty simple to use: I just toss the
dead
mice in the field across the street, re-set the trap and wait for the next
one.  The fact that I have never seen any evidence of them in the living
quarters suggest to me that I have been successful at keeping them from
settling in.  However, I am shortly going to be leaving town for a couple of
weeks and donbt want to leave the traps set while I am gone, least I return
to a rotting mess.  On the other hand, I am not wild about leaving the house
bunprotectedb either.

That leaves two options, at least as far as I know: nothing or poison.  I
have
been afraid of mouse poison ever since a friend of mine had one die inside
the
wall of his house, although that was a long time ago.  I understand that the
poison is supposed to send them outside to seek water, but canbt imagine
that is foolproof.  Am I worrying too much about a problem a neighbor had
decades ago?  Does anyone here have recent positive or negative experience
with poison, or other recommendations for me?

Thanks.

Jim

p.s.  My shop is currently in the basement. J
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 18:44:10 -0500
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To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] network mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On Oct 26, 2015, at 23:12, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com> wrote:
>
> Tony,
>
> Have you found a similar device for 802.11AC?
>
> Jack

Ubiqti have announced new 802.11ac products. I don't know if they are
available yet or not. Their previous ac stuff was overpriced and
underperforming.  If the new stuff works as well, it'll be a good deal.

We have Ubiqti stuff at work. It just works, and forms a proper mesh, where a
device can move from one ap to another seamlessly. It's trivial to add or
remove aps or change network configuration.  There's a Java control app that
you use for that, it doesn't need to run all the time unless you want to use
some of the advanced access control stuff.

It makes it clear what crap consumer grade wifi stuff is




>
> -----Original Message-----
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 27 18:49:17 2015
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Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 17:30:33 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
References: <C43654A0-CBF0-4886-8AD4-9C29F7CF677A@gmail.com>
 <C43654A0-CBF0-4886-8AD4-9C29F7CF677A@gmail.com>
 localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mouse traps/poison
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Gordie wrote:

>What prompted my purchase of the pail is having my AC fail in 90* weather only
>to find mama mouse laid out across the terminals of the start/run capacitor
>for the motor.

         That's similar to what prompted me to start baiting.  I started 
see rat poop on the engine cover of my car.  With a modern car and it's 
reliance on electronics, chewed up wiring is Very Bad Indeed.
         That was the idea behind placing bait station around the house - 
to make the property a dead zone for rodents.  Any that wander over from 
the neighbors find some tasty treats laid out for them and it's goodbye rat.

         Here's one trick I used to keep them out of my car.  Some bait 
comes in "place packs".  These are small paper envelopes filled with an 
ounce or two of bait pellets.  The paper is permeable so the rodents can 
smell the bait.  The packs are intended to allow you to place bait in areas 
not easily reachable.  For example, you could place them in an attic or 
crawlspace by just flinging them into the area.
         I taped one to my engine cover so that the rat that was hanging 
out under the hood would be sure to find it.  I checked it every 
morning.  If the pack was untouched, I left it on and drove around with it 
still attached.  If it was chewed, I removed the pack so pellets weren't 
getting all over the place.  That worked great until the bait stations were 
being used regularly and wiped out the local colony.  If I see any rat poop 
since, I do the place packs for a week or so just to make sure I get 'em.

Todd the rat killer
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 14:15:41 2015
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 15:16:19 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

need some email/internet gurus help here.........over the last month Ibve
started getting a mess of spam email...  I know I picked this up somewhere but
that doesnbt matter now

there are    offers from Italy vacations, Jet rentals, suv bargains, dental
implants, medicare plans,  voip phone services etc  even an .eu domain telling
me my local drug store points are going to expire !!

they all come in two at a time... identical sending addresses and most from
b.eub addresses... each time... I block them but  they will change one
character or word in their domain names like

deals@italyvacationsfree.eu           or deals@itallyvacationsnow.eu     I
keep blocking names and domains but they are never the same... Ibve probably
got 300 blocked domain names now

either their unsubscribe link is blank or it takes me to a site that
bitdefender says bdonbt go there, buddyb   probably wouldnbt do
anything but tell them I have an active address anyway...

Anyone have a way to stop this...  Ibm probably getting 30 to 40 a day

is it just my time in the barrel...   Ibd love to find a way to stop them
for sure

thanks
John
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Thread-Index: AQHRE0/igydLA8RtkUml7cdfZ9rd6Z6Eeb0Y
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Please send all replies to the group as I have an email address that is
equally as bad but doesn't block addresses like this outlook site does.
Thanks

________________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of john niolon
<jniolon@att.net>
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2015 3:16 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming

need some email/internet gurus help here.........over the last month Ibve
started getting a mess of spam email...  I know I picked this up somewhere
but
that doesnbt matter now

there are    offers from Italy vacations, Jet rentals, suv bargains, dental
implants, medicare plans,  voip phone services etc  even an .eu domain
telling
me my local drug store points are going to expire !!

they all come in two at a time... identical sending addresses and most from
b.eub addresses... each time... I block them but  they will change one
character or word in their domain names like

deals@italyvacationsfree.eu           or deals@itallyvacationsnow.eu     I
keep blocking names and domains but they are never the same... Ibve probably
got 300 blocked domain names now

either their unsubscribe link is blank or it takes me to a site that
bitdefender says bdonbt go there, buddyb   probably wouldnbt do
anything but tell them I have an active address anyway...

Anyone have a way to stop this...  Ibm probably getting 30 to 40 a day

is it just my time in the barrel...   Ibd love to find a way to stop them
for sure

thanks
John
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 15:50:14 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I moved all of my list subscription, cars, video editing, computers, etc,,
to gmail a couple of years ago and while some spam does get through their
filters it's not many, so you might consider that.

One of the big causes of spam for me is people who send out an email to a
number of recipients and put everybody's address in the "TO:..." box. If
anyone :Replies to all..." or "FWDs:..." the message it exposes all of the
addresses to spambots which harvest them, and then you start getting all
manner of offers! Gmail's spam filters do a good jobs of filtering the
signal from the noise. Not perfect, but very good.

FWIW,
Ron
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:23:43 -0500
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If it is spam don't use the unsubscribe link.  The spammers won't honor it
and using it just confirms to the spammers that they have a legitimate
address to keep sending to.

Randy


On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 3:16 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> need some email/internet gurus help here.........over the last month Ib ve
> started getting a mess of spam email...  I know I picked this up somewhere
> but
> that doesnb t matter now
>
> there are    offers from Italy vacations, Jet rentals, suv bargains, dental
> implants, medicare plans,  voip phone services etc  even an .eu domain
> telling
> me my local drug store points are going to expire !!
>
> they all come in two at a time... identical sending addresses and most from
> b .eub  addresses... each time... I block them but  they will change one
> character or word in their domain names like
>
> deals@italyvacationsfree.eu           or deals@itallyvacationsnow.eu     I
> keep blocking names and domains but they are never the same... Ib ve
> probably
> got 300 blocked domain names now
>
> either their unsubscribe link is blank or it takes me to a site that
> bitdefender says b donb t go there, buddyb    probably wouldnb t do
> anything but tell them I have an active address anyway...
>
> Anyone have a way to stop this...  Ib m probably getting 30 to 40 a day
>
> is it just my time in the barrel...   Ib d love to find a way to stop them
> for sure
>
> thanks
> John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 15:34:01 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 17:34:44 -0400
References: <5EA23FE8CD5341A0B4EC7EEDA809F03A@UserPC>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Oct 30, 2015, at 4:16 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> Anyone have a way to stop this...  Ibm probably getting 30 to 40 a day

I get about 5-10 times that. You can't fight it. Change your address. Never
click on any links, there is no "unsubscribe", just confirmation that the
email is valid, or a virus...

My gmail account gets none, I thought it was that I keep that one close to
home, but maybe google knows a lot more about spam?

jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 16:01:31 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'john niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 15:02:19 -0700
Thread-Index: AdETT+cKxM5eAneOTc+KJ+3xi33DXQAC7DhQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> either their unsubscribe link is blank or it takes me to a site that
> bitdefender says bdonbt go there, buddyb   probably wouldnbt do
> anything but tell them I have an active address anyway...

Right.  Never unsubscribe from anything that you didn't subscribe to in the
first place; and never click on any links in the spam.
Verified addresses are worth money, so any kind of a response from you
guarantees that the spammer will be selling your email
address to other spammers for years to come.

And the links very often lead to various kinds of malware attacks, virus
downloads and such.  Easy way to get infected.

> Anyone have a way to stop this...  Ibm probably getting 30
> to 40 a day

Ok, this is really tedious, and takes time to start working.  But it does work
eventually.  You have to learn how to first find and
then read the email header, so you can find what IP address supplied the spam.
In Outlook 2003, click on Tools/Options, then copy
the text from the little window into a new text file.

Now look up that IP address on one of the many sites that will do a reverse IP
lookup for you, to find the ISP that owns the address
that provided the spam.

If it's a reputable ISP (or located in a country where you might want to
correspond with a resident), then fire off an email to the
"abuse" email address listed with a copy to the "admin".  State your case
simply and politely, just "I received unsolicited
commercial email (spam) from a site in your domain.  Please take appropriate
steps to ensure this does not happen again."; and
include the original header and message (without attachments or HTML).
Typically you won't get anything back except maybe a canned
"Your complaint has been received"; but typically you won't hear from that
spammer again either.

More often, it will be one of the many "spam havens" in places like Russia or
Nigeria.  In that case, just set up a rule that moves
anything from that block of IP addresses to your spam folder.  They will keep
spamming you for awhile, but eventually quit when they
never get a response.  At the peak, I had probably 150 such rules and hundreds
of spams a week, but now I get almost no spam at all
(maybe 2 or 3 per week).  In the meantime, you'll have to scan the folder
occasionally for messages that weren't spam, and possibly
delete the associated rule.  Some honest people use the same ISPs that harbor
spammers, so this is only a 99% solution, not 100%.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 16:04:22 2015
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 <DF.C2.11656.8E8E3365@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 18:05:07 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <Paul@Parkanzky.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You guys are making this way harder than it needs to be.

Get yourself a gmail account.  They do a phenomenal job of filtering out
the spam.  If you want to keep your current email address, forward it to
your new gmail account.

Nobody does email better than Google right now.  Start enjoying it.

-Paul

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 6:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > either their unsubscribe link is blank or it takes me to a site that
> > bitdefender says b donb t go there, buddyb    probably wouldnb t do
> > anything but tell them I have an active address anyway...
>
> Right.  Never unsubscribe from anything that you didn't subscribe to in the
> first place; and never click on any links in the spam.
> Verified addresses are worth money, so any kind of a response from you
> guarantees that the spammer will be selling your email
> address to other spammers for years to come.
>
> And the links very often lead to various kinds of malware attacks, virus
> downloads and such.  Easy way to get infected.
>
> > Anyone have a way to stop this...  Ib m probably getting 30
> > to 40 a day
>
> Ok, this is really tedious, and takes time to start working.  But it does
> work
> eventually.  You have to learn how to first find and
> then read the email header, so you can find what IP address supplied the
> spam.
> In Outlook 2003, click on Tools/Options, then copy
> the text from the little window into a new text file.
>
> Now look up that IP address on one of the many sites that will do a
> reverse IP
> lookup for you, to find the ISP that owns the address
> that provided the spam.
>
> If it's a reputable ISP (or located in a country where you might want to
> correspond with a resident), then fire off an email to the
> "abuse" email address listed with a copy to the "admin".  State your case
> simply and politely, just "I received unsolicited
> commercial email (spam) from a site in your domain.  Please take
> appropriate
> steps to ensure this does not happen again."; and
> include the original header and message (without attachments or HTML).
> Typically you won't get anything back except maybe a canned
> "Your complaint has been received"; but typically you won't hear from that
> spammer again either.
>
> More often, it will be one of the many "spam havens" in places like Russia
> or
> Nigeria.  In that case, just set up a rule that moves
> anything from that block of IP addresses to your spam folder.  They will
> keep
> spamming you for awhile, but eventually quit when they
> never get a response.  At the peak, I had probably 150 such rules and
> hundreds
> of spams a week, but now I get almost no spam at all
> (maybe 2 or 3 per week).  In the meantime, you'll have to scan the folder
> occasionally for messages that weren't spam, and possibly
> delete the associated rule.  Some honest people use the same ISPs that
> harbor
> spammers, so this is only a 99% solution, not 100%.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 16:42:33 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 15:42:02 -0700
Thread-Index: AdETXxB+D2rheM4nQFOW7v1RBj6mWgABI8/Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Get yourself a gmail account.  They do a phenomenal job of 
> filtering out
> the spam. 

Yeah, but they also filter some non-spam, and there is no way for you to get it back, or even know that it was sent.  I gave up on
sending encrypted files through Gmail because so many of them just never show up.  (And no, they weren't spam or viruses.)

It also seems that their POP3 interface goes down at least once a month, and sometimes several times per day.  Very annoying, as my
email client thinks Gmail rejected the password and hangs waiting for me to enter the correct one.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 17:41:41 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

         Sometimes you just get on a list somewhere and you get flooded 
with spam for awhile, then it goes away then back again.  All a part of 
being on an Internet with no controls on who gets on the system.

         I use a local ISP (Avvanta.com) that has a spam filter.  It 
catches 20-50 spam emails per day.  It stores them on their server so I can 
check what they caught for any legit stuff that got flagged by the 
filter.  I can whitelist those addresses so that doesn't happen again.  The 
filter is rule based, putting a score on each email.  I can adjust the 
threshold score that causes email to be marked spam to find a balance 
between letting good stuff in and keeping the bad out.

         Also, when I updated to the latest version of Norton AntiVirus, it 
included a spam filter for email that catches the remaining 5-10 per day 
that get through Avvanta.  It adds "Norton AntiSpam" to the subject 
line.  I have my email program dump email with those words in the subject 
line into a spam folder which I check regularly to see if anything legit is 
in there.

Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       539,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 18:58:28 2015
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Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 18:53:41 -0600
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To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5EA23FE8CD5341A0B4EC7EEDA809F03A@UserPC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
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Spam exists because spam works. Sure, you may get a 0.00001% success rate, but when you send out millions
and millions of emails, that miniscule percentage translates to profits.

The Team.Net mail server gets a lot of spam. These list addresses have been around for decades, all the
spammers have them. About 200 messages per day get caught by the postfix filters. I need to work on the
filters to start trying to catch some of this season's letters from Santa campaigns.

About 5 - 600 get through to the mailman filters and are caught there. Ones that are held for administrator
approval ( that's me ) currently number 16,995. I'll see how many more come in by the time I am done writing
this. So at least these Team.Net lists are not a source of spam, that's why you folks pay me the big bucks

Fun.

mjb, overpaid and underworked, as usual.

PS: Only 5 more came in while typing this. Not bad.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 20:06:42 2015
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 <42.9C.11656.732F3365@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 22:07:20 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <Paul@Parkanzky.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Spam sent to gmail goes into a "Spam" folder where you can check it out
every once in awhile.  If you don't do anything with it for 30 days it gets
deleted forever.  Occasionally, legitimate email ends up in my spam
folder.  So far as I'm aware, I've never failed to receive an email that
was sent to me though.  I often shuffle emails between accounts and have
been a gmail user from the very beginning, so I am pretty sure I'd have
discovered that behavior.

-Paul

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 6:42 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Get yourself a gmail account.  They do a phenomenal job of
> > filtering out
> > the spam.
>
> Yeah, but they also filter some non-spam, and there is no way for you to
> get it back, or even know that it was sent.  I gave up on
> sending encrypted files through Gmail because so many of them just never
> show up.  (And no, they weren't spam or viruses.)
>
> It also seems that their POP3 interface goes down at least once a month,
> and sometimes several times per day.  Very annoying, as my
> email client thinks Gmail rejected the password and hangs waiting for me
> to enter the correct one.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 30 21:44:43 2015
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 22:40:17 -0500
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To: Paul Parkanzky <Paul@Parkanzky.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] spam email just keeps on coming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On Oct 30, 2015, at 21:07, Paul Parkanzky <Paul@Parkanzky.com> wrote:
>
> Spam sent to gmail goes into a "Spam" folder where you can check it out
> every once in awhile.  If you don't do anything with it for 30 days it gets
> deleted forever.  Occasionally, legitimate email ends up in my spam
> folder.  So far as I'm aware, I've never failed to receive an email that
> was sent to me though.

I have. And when I was running mail servers, I had users complain about it.
Google would accept the mail, and then it disappeared. Google 's response
would fit on a postage stamp, if you wrote very big with a crayon.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

