Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Enclosed car trailer

From: Jim Juhas <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 17:30:56 -0400

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 8, 2015, at 3:49 PM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Sometime in the next 6 months or so I'm thinking about buying an enclosed
> car trailer for hauling my TR6 behind my motorhome.
>
> For those of you who may have been down this road I'd like to ask a few
> questions:
>
> 1)  Did you use E-track for tying the car down?
No but use it to hold other stuff down, and on the walls.
>
> 2)  If you used E-track how did you fasten it to the floor?
One inch wood screws into the deck. Lots of them, every hole.

>
> 3)  If you used E-track how hard is it to tire bonnets with ratchets on a
> small car like a TR6?
Haven't tied the car down with that. I tie to recessed rings in the floor, two
front, two rear, with ratchets hooking to dedicated welded loops on the
crossmember in front if, under the spring axle mounts in rear (live axle,
though.)
>
> 4)  If you didn't use E-track how did you tie the car down?
See above
>
> 5)  Did you get an extended tongue?
No
>
> 6)  Would you prefer a torsion axle over leaf springs?
Springs but hard to find I think.
>
> 7)  Did you get any 120vac wiring installed or did you wire it yourself for
> 120vac?
Not yet
>
> 8)  Did you opt for a roof top air conditioner?
No
>
> 9)  Did you buy a 7' wide, 8' wide or 8'-6" wide trailer?  And why did you
> select that width?
8'6" to accommodate my Mustang and like cars, and walk around space and in/out
ability with my MGA.
>
> Ok maybe more than a few questions!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
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---

From: Dave <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 18:03:24 -0400

Although not an enclosed trailer, I fitted the trailer I used with E-track.  I used wheel nets (or whatever they are called) to secure the four tires to the trailer leaving the car to move freely about on its suspension.  I secured the E-track to the trailer boards with through-bolts (stainless, of course) with nuts and fender washers underneath.  About every third - fourth hole focusing on the areas where the ratchet straps connect.

I cannot address any other questions.  120 Vac and AC sounds rather posh.  I'd be tempted to live in it when I'm not traveling.

Dave Massey

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
To: Shop Talk List <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2015 4:17 pm
Subject: [Shop-talk] Enclosed car trailer

Sometime in the next 6 months or so I'm thinking about buying an enclosed
car
trailer for hauling my TR6 behind my motorhome.

For those of you who may have
been down this road I'd like to ask a few
questions:

1)  Did you use E-track
for tying the car down?

2)  If you used E-track how did you fasten it to the
floor?

3)  If you used E-track how hard is it to tire bonnets with ratchets
on a
small car like a TR6?

4)  If you didn't use E-track how did you tie the
car down?

6)  Would you prefer a
torsion axle over leaf springs?

7)  Did you get any 120vac wiring installed
or did you wire it yourself for
120vac?

8)  Did you opt for a roof top air
conditioner?

9)  Did you buy a 7' wide, 8' wide or 8'-6" wide trailer?  And
why did you
select that width?

Ok maybe more than a few
questions!

Thanks!

Brad

[email-masked]

---

From: David Hillman <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 19:37:54 -0400 (EDT)

> For those of you who may have been down this road I'd like to ask a few

    I may or may not be the right guy to ask... I'm on trailer number 4 at 
the moment.

> 2)  If you used E-track how did you fasten it to the floor?

    Yes and no.  I installed E-track in the floor of my current trailer ( 
it came with full wall E-track ).  I used it for a while, but in my 
particular case, it did not work well.  I haul an iceracer in the trailer, 
and the snow and ice falls off the car, and collects in the E-track, where 
it re-freezes and renders the track useless.  The same thing happens with 
dirt, but slower.  Eventually I put a couple 6K lb D-rings in, and use 
those instead.  The track still comes in handy for moving furniture and 
the like.

    I bolted it through the floor every foot, with washers, and then 
screwed every other hole into the floor as well.

> 3)  If you used E-track how hard is it to tire bonnets with ratchets on a

    Dunno, never used bonnets as my cars have always had tie-down points.

> 4)  If you didn't use E-track how did you tie the car down?

    Ratchet straps from Lodi Metals in Ohio, run to 6k D-rings at each 
corner.  If you are only ever going to haul cars, this is the way 
to go.  I made some 1/4" aluminum backing plates on my Plasmacam, drilled 
4" diameter holes with a holesaw, and bolted them in.

<http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cargo-Control/Brophy/RR06.html>

> 5)  Did you get an extended tongue?

    No.  The only time I ever wanted one was when I installed a tongue box. 
There wasn't room between the WD hitch brackets and the front wall for a 
traditional box, so I had to use a truck-bed side box lightly modified.

> 6)  Would you prefer a torsion axle over leaf springs?

    Yes.  There's a reason they are an added cost option virtually 
everywhere.

> 7)  Did you get any 120vac wiring installed or did you wire it yourself for

    My current trailer was previously owned by a guy who hauled a junior 
dragster to the track for his kid.  He finished the interior walls, 
and wired it with 120v and even surround sound, because they'd sit and 
play videos games in it during downtime at the track.

    That said, I have only used the 120v when working ON the trailer... 
like when putting in a new floor, and installing d-rings, and such.

> 8)  Did you opt for a roof top air conditioner?

    No, but mine sits in storage all summer and mainly gets used in the 
dead of winter.

> 9)  Did you buy a 7' wide, 8' wide or 8'-6" wide trailer?  And why did you

    I have had all three widths.  You couldn't give me a 7 again.  I 
wouldn't buy an 8.  I can't think of any reason to go skinny, maybe unless 
you are wedging it into a garage.  I bought a 7 because it was cheap, from 
a friend, and my car fit in it ( just ).  Then I bought an 8, because I 
learned my lesson.  Now I have an 8.5', because I'm a slow learner ;)

--
  David Hillman

[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 20:43:01 -0400

Jim, thanks for the feedback.  It's always interesting to hear how other
people go about dealing with similar projects.

At first I was really into the idea of using e-track but I'm starting to
think it might be more hassle trying to get access to the wheels and be
able to use a ratchet in the tight wheel wells.  The trailer I'm looking at
comes with 4 D-rings installed which will likely be all I need.  I do like
the idea of e-track on the walls though.

Thanks!

brad

On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 5:30 PM, Jim Juhas <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Haven't tied the car down with that. I tie to recessed rings in the floor,
> two front, two rear, with ratchets hooking to dedicated welded loops on the
> 8'6" to accommodate my Mustang and like cars, and walk around space and
> in/out ability with my MGA.

[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 20:46:18 -0400

Hi Dave, nice seeing you an Linda at the convention :)

How much room do you have for the ratchet straps when using the wheel nets
(bonnets)?  I'm starting to think that in the confined spaces of an
enclosed trailer it might be somewhat of a pain to try get the wheel nets
around the wheels.

I'm not certain that I will install AC but I do want the trailer wired and
frame for it....just in case :)

On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 6:03 PM, Dave <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Although not an enclosed trailer, I fitted the trailer I used with
> E-track.  I used wheel nets (or whatever they are called) to secure the
> four tires to the trailer leaving the car to move freely about on its
> suspension.  I secured the E-track to the trailer boards with through-bolts
> (stainless, of course) with nuts and fender washers underneath.  About
> every third - fourth hole focusing on the areas where the ratchet straps
> connect.
>
> I cannot address any other questions.  120 Vac and AC sounds rather posh.
> I'd be tempted to live in it when I'm not traveling.
>
> Dave Massey

[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 20:50:56 -0400

David, thanks for the feedback.

I'm hoping if/when I buy an enclosed trailer I get it right the first time!

I can see where 3-track would be a problem considering what you're
transporting.  Seems like the responses I've been getting favor D-rings
over e-track for vehicle tie down.  Maybe I should learn something here :)

I've never owned or used a trailer with the torsion springs which is why
I'm interested in the difference.  I think it's something like a $300
adder.  Your comments about trailer width pretty much indicate I should go
with the 8'-6" trailer width.  Makes sense.

Thanks!

Brad

On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 7:37 PM, David Hillman <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> those instead.  The track still comes in handy for moving furniture and the
> like.
>
> corner.  If you are only ever going to haul cars, this is the way to go.  I
> made some 1/4" aluminum backing plates on my Plasmacam, drilled 4" diameter
> holes with a holesaw, and bolted them in.
>
> dragster to the track for his kid.  He finished the interior walls, and
> wired it with 120v and even surround sound, because they'd sit and play
> videos games in it during downtime at the track.
>

[email-masked]

---

From: David Hillman <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 23:44:49 -0400 (EDT)

> enclosed trailer it might be somewhat of a pain to try get the wheel nets

    The other question is, do you want to secure the load in the trailer, 
or just the wheels?

    I know some people like the idea of 1 to 3 tons of vehicle flopping 
around in their trailer... I do not.  I think it's insane, but to each his 
own.  I tie down the chassis, not just 100 pounds of wheels.  I have 
tied-down just the wheels a few times in a pinch ( someone else's car 
lacking anchors, etc ) and hated it.

[email-masked]

---

From: David Hillman <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 23:59:57 -0400 (EDT)

> over e-track for vehicle tie down.  Maybe I should learn something here :)

    Really the only reason for floor e-track is to haul a variety of 
things.  If this is only going to be a mobile TR6 garage, I see no 
point at all.  Put d-rings where you need them, and be done with it.

> with the 8'-6" trailer width.  Makes sense.

    I've had both axles.  The difference isn't night and day or anything, 
but torsion is preferred.  Some of the torsion advantages -- like say 
being quieter -- you may or may not care about.  On the other hand, if you 
only plan to keep a trailer a short time, maybe you don't care that leaves 
rust out and need replacing.  Generally it's +$300 for torsions, or thereabouts.

    Regarding width, about the only reasons to go skinny are storage room, 
and reduced frontal area ( ie mileage )... but if you are towing with a 
motorhome, neither of those probably matter to you.

[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2015 08:55:26 -0400

I've tied vehicles down both ways. Usually it depended on what sort of tie
down access was available on any specific vehicle.  I've towed large and
small vehicles and never had issues either way and I've heard the pros and
cons for each method.  Sometimes I use a combination of the two methods.
Seems like each vehicle/trailer combination is different.

[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2015 09:01:08 -0400

> things.  If this is only going to be a mobile TR6 garage, I see no point at
> all.  Put d-rings where you need them, and be done with it.
>
>
I've pretty much made up my mind to go with D-rings.  The maddening part is
on a TR4/TR6 tying down the rear of the car is a royal pain.  I'll probably
have to add fixed tie points to the car chassis to make life easier.

> but torsion is preferred.  Some of the torsion advantages -- like say being
> quieter -- you may or may not care about.  On the other hand, if you only
> plan to keep a trailer a short time, maybe you don't care that leaves rust
> out and need replacing.  Generally it's +$300 for torsions, or thereabouts.
>
>
The plan is get the trailer now even though my real plans for it are for
when I retire in a few years.  Having a trailer now will provide a nice
enclosed parking space for the car while I do some major work in my shop
over the next couple of years.

> motorhome, neither of those probably matter to you.

Good point, the 8'-6" wide would be the same as my motorhome.
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]

---

From: Philip Ethier <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2015 00:22:21 -0500

> 1)  Did you use E-track for tying the car down?

Yes.  The is no place on an Elise I want to put a hook on.  Stag is
pretty-much the same story.

> 2)  If you used E-track how did you fasten it to the floor?

1/4-inch bolts. Like 400 of them.  2" fender washers and Nyloc nuts.  Every
hole gets a bolt.

> 3)  If you used E-track how hard is it to tire bonnets with ratchets on a

Easy.  Use the three-point system.  End of the strap is E-track clip.  Then
the strap (for the elise, with wide tires over the E-track) or
basket-formed from straps (for cars with narrower track and/or skinny
tires).  Then a strap-pulley attached to an E-track clip.  Then the ratchet
(which runs horizontally outside the outline of the car).  Then the third
and final E-track clip.

> 5)  Did you get an extended tongue?

No.

> 6)  Would you prefer a torsion axle over leaf springs?

Yes.  The load floor is lower.

> 7)  Did you get any 120vac wiring installed or did you wire it yourself for

No.

> 8)  Did you opt for a roof top air conditioner?

No.

> 9)  Did you buy a 7' wide, 8' wide or 8'-6" wide trailer?  And why did you

8'-6".  I like to have room to get around the car.  In addition, I have a
left access door.  Being able to open the car door on the Elise is a must,
unless I always winch it in.  My winch with a wireless remotw cost 50 bucks
on sale at Harbor Freight.

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]