Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Taps ...

From: Arvid <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 07:09:23 -0500

Try this a third time with a different email client to see if the body 
of the message gets thru ...

David Scheidt <[email-masked]> wrote:
 > On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Arvid Jedlicka <[email-masked]> wrote:
 >>
 > Arvid: nothing reached the list.

Thanks David. I'll try this again with a different email client and see 
if it works ...

I'll need to tap into some of the small interior wiring on the car. I'd 
like to access the collective wisdom of thegroup regarding the best way 
to do it.

We're all familiar with the guillotine style ...

http://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-10774-Splice-Connector/dp/B0106BJ8CI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1438088400&sr=8-8&keywords=splice&pebp=1438088429119&perid=0HVMJGHE6P8SY9HN2QM6

... but I'm not that fond of them. My limited experience with them 
usually results in the original wire being cut orthe added wire not 
remaining attached. I am assuming it is operator error but it could be 
I'm just buying the wrongbrand or size of connector. Suggestions welcome.

I've also seen, but never used, the posi-tap type of connectors ...

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html ...

Any real world experience would be appreciated.

That's all I can think of and very likely have missed "the perfect 
solution".

Suggestions and recommendations??

Thanks,
Arvid
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: John Miller <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:39:25 -0700

> Third choice is at an existing splice.  Mid span splices are evil, and
> all of them will eventually fail, one way or another.

I can't speak specifically to that product, but I've used screw-in 
products like that before and they...did not work worth extruded fecal 
matter.

Not that I like the Scotchtap guillotines either; they work fine for a 
while, and if sized correctly they don't destroy the wire, but vibration 
and/or corrosion will eventually result in a failed connection.  I use 
them in one application and one application only - Valentine 1 remote 
wiring adapters on cars that have ignition-switched power to something 
(sunroof, dome light) in the forward headliner area.  In our driveway 
right now that means two E39 and one E53 BMW, and the Scotchtaps have 
been in two of them for 15 years without trouble.

In other applications, no thanks.  I've had to rip out and rewire 
several aftermarket alarm installations that were done with a forest of 
Scotchtaps.

When I need to do a PERMANENT tap, I'll cut the wire, slip a piece of 
heatshrink over it, a butt-joint crimp sleeve (bare kind, not the 
insulated ones) and crimp it in place with an appropriate tool, adding a 
pigtail on one side.  When necessary you can get stepped sleeves that 
are smaller on one side than the other.  Then heatshrink, and put an 
appopriate connector on the pigtail.   It's a hassle, but it's 
production-quality.

John.

[email-masked]

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2015 02:58:18 -0700

> heatshrink over it 

That's my thought as well, except I don't generally bother with the crimped
sleeve as long as there is a bit of slack available.  Just do a Western
Union splice between the two original wires, and wrap the new wire around
behind one end of the splice; then solder and cover with heat shrink.

Randall

[email-masked]

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From: Ronnie Day <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2015 12:19:42 -0500

The last car radio swap I did, I used Posi-Locks to connect the radio
harness to the car harness adapter that came with the radio, an Alpine from
Crutchfield. These are great. Much quicker and easier than soldering, and
far better than crimp connectors.

They're a two piece deal that screws together and work a little like a wire
nut, but they form a far more secure connection. Plus they can be taken
apart easily, if needed. They're available in a variety of styles and for
different stranded wire gauges, from a variety of vendors. Not super cheap,
but how much is your time worth and they work.

RD

On Sunday, August 2, 2015, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: Dave Cavanaugh <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 20:08:57 -0700

I haven't used them lately but I've had good luck with Posi-Locks, too.  
They really made a big hit in vintage motorcycle circles.

On 8/2/2015 10:19 AM, Ronnie Day wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: Arvid <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2015 18:33:58 -0500

Thanks to all offered suggestions.

I've decided to give the Posi-Taps a try.

Initial reaction is "boy they sure are expensive".

I'll let you know what my installation experience is as soon as I get my 
car back from the body shop.

Arvid

[email-masked]

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From: steve hochschild <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 12:03:28 -0500

I appreciate these warnings that my door was too narrow, I was all 
caught up in the barn door issue and completely forgot that I was making 
a garage door!  So it is now 11', and I will need a triple track to hang 
the six 2' wide panels, I think.    The building is 16' wide, the 11' 
opening is centered, leaving 2 1/2' on each side, so six 2' panels with 
3" overlap on each side.

More info:

I had to shoehorn this into a very confined space, so ended up with a 
two story plan on a 16' x 32' slab.  Shed roof, 2/12/ pitch, galvalume 
standing seam roof.  Exterior stairs to the second floor. First floor is 
12' useable height, second floor ceiling is 6' to 9'.  512 sq' each 
level,  AC upstairs from a (yet to be purchased) window unit installed 
through the wall.

Double doors out the back, full light service doors at the top and 
bottom of the stairway, upstairs level has a big picture window over the 
garage door, and another on the high side wall, 1st fl has a big window 
under the stairway.  Security is not really an issue.  No plumbing at 
all.  I need about 60 amps for my welders, the lift, and the AC, so I 
think that I will have to get a second meter. The plan is to build it to 
the studs, and then get someone else to immediately do the insulation 
and drywall upstairs.  I am leaning towards the cheapest laminate 
flooring  upstairs at the same time, but am open to other suggestions.  
Planning standard epoxy on the shop floor.

I paid $6500 for the slab, with a friend doing it.  This was a comedy of 
sorts, as we had to pump the concrete and none of us had done that 
before.  Then I had 3 different contractors bail on me. Austin is 
booming, there is so much work that they are all too busy doing other 
more lucrative projects, and the second floor meant that all the 
handyman level guys got scared off.

So finally I went to Tuff Shed.  Is this blasphemy on this list?

They gave me a price of under $30/sq ft, $31k. They spent this week 
pre-building some of the panels, the stairway, and anything that can fit 
on a flatbed.  They are starting on-site tomorrow and they say it will 
be done by Friday...

So this is the last chance to correct any other oversights I have made.  
Appreciate the help so far!

Steve in Bee Cave, outside of Austin, but in the county, so no permits 
required...

On 7/31/2015 10:41 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:29 PM, steve hochschild
> <[email-masked]> wrote:
>> Look, a real shop being built and discussed on shoptalk!
>>
>> I am about to begin building my dream shop: 1024 sq ft on two floors, metal
>> shed roof, exterior stairway, and lots of other fabulous features that I
>> will talk about later.
>>
>> The 1st floor has a ceiling height of 12', so I can roll my travel trailer
>> in and work on it out of the hot Texas sun, and I need the full height.
>>
>> I propose to fabricate a pair of 4' wide by 12' high barn doors, to cover an
>> 8'wide x 12' high opening.
> You want an opening larger than 8 feet!  8 feet is a pain to get a car
> in through (espcially, if you have to push!).  Go 10 feet, 12 if you
> can.

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