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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 07:25:51 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Are fuses required? I've seen plenty that are just a pull-out handle...
On Jul 31, 2015 11:36 PM, "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 6:15 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
> <gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:
> > Need to hook up home central a/c located in my (temporary) shop/garage.
> > New shop and extra garage space is to be soon added to our property.
> > The installation will be handled by a local HVAC contractor (using an
> outside
> > electrical contractor) or option is to allow the homeowner (me) to
> supply the
> > power from the panel to the electrical shutoff mounted on the outside
> wall
> > of the garage, next to the condenser.  We have a dedicated 30A 240V
> circuit,
> > previously used for an electric clothes dryer (now switched to gas) that
> > goes up and through the garage attic trusses (above the garageb s drywall
> > ceiling)
> > toward the houseb s laundry room.  My thought is to interrupt the run to
> the
> > dryer, terminating the run toward the no longer being used dryer, and
> install
> > a J-box to make a new run to the adjacent garage wall for the a/c unit.
> I
> > plan
> > to bore through the double top plate and run the Romex down through the
> wall
> > and through to the outside where it would be connected to the switch box.
> > Here are my questions:
> > 1.  Planning 2.5 ton 13SEER unit.  What Romex wiring size can I run?
> Itb s
> > about a
> > total of 50b .
>
> 30 amp breaker requires 10gauge wire, which will provide a 3% voltage
> drop at about 100 feet.
>
>
> > 2.  I understand that the J-box in the attic storage space must be easily
> > accessible.
> > Any other placement requirements?
> > 3.  Any recommendations for the outside switch box?  Is there a design
> for
> > going through a siding/OSB exterior wall?
>
> I expect they want a standard a/c disconnect, with fuses.  There are
> versions that feed through the back, from through the wall.
>
> > 4.  Any nailing recommendations?  Ib m familiar with not nailing
> (staples)
> > too
> > tight on the Romex.  Spacing suggestions?
>
> Minimum spacing is specified by the NEC.  basic rule is no more than
> 4.5 feet apart, within one foot of any box or fitting, and within 6
> inches of a single gang box without a clamp.  Also, wire should be
> parallel with the studs (where that makes sense, of course), and needs
> to be 1 1/4 away from the edge.  If it can't be, it has to be
> protected from nails by a plate, sleeve, or in conduit.  There are
> additional complications, but if you follow that, use sense, you'll be
> fine.
>
>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  1 06:15:27 2015
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From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 07:09:23 -0500
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Cc: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire Taps ...
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Try this a third time with a different email client to see if the body 
of the message gets thru ...

David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:
 > On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
 >>
 > Arvid: nothing reached the list.

Thanks David. I'll try this again with a different email client and see 
if it works ...

I'll need to tap into some of the small interior wiring on the car. I'd 
like to access the collective wisdom of thegroup regarding the best way 
to do it.

We're all familiar with the guillotine style ...

http://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-10774-Splice-Connector/dp/B0106BJ8CI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1438088400&sr=8-8&keywords=splice&pebp=1438088429119&perid=0HVMJGHE6P8SY9HN2QM6

... but I'm not that fond of them. My limited experience with them 
usually results in the original wire being cut orthe added wire not 
remaining attached. I am assuming it is operator error but it could be 
I'm just buying the wrongbrand or size of connector. Suggestions welcome.

I've also seen, but never used, the posi-tap type of connectors ...

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html ...

Any real world experience would be appreciated.

That's all I can think of and very likely have missed "the perfect 
solution".

Suggestions and recommendations??

Thanks,
Arvid
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:25:26 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
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My pull out handle contains 2 fuses... 


Are fuses required? I've seen plenty that are just a pull-out handle... 
On Jul 31, 2015 11:36 PM, "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote: 

> On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 6:15 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA 
> <gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote: 
> > Need to hook up home central a/c located in my (temporary) shop/garage. 
> > New shop and extra garage space is to be soon added to our property. 
> > The installation will be handled by a local HVAC contractor (using an 
> outside 
> > electrical contractor) or option is to allow the homeowner (me) to 
> supply the 
> > power from the panel to the electrical shutoff mounted on the outside 
> wall 
> > of the garage, next to the condenser. We have a dedicated 30A 240V 
> circuit, 
> > previously used for an electric clothes dryer (now switched to gas) that 
> > goes up and through the garage attic trusses (above the garageb s drywall 
> > ceiling) 
> > toward the houseb s laundry room. My thought is to interrupt the run to 
> the 
> > dryer, terminating the run toward the no longer being used dryer, and 
> install 
> > a J-box to make a new run to the adjacent garage wall for the a/c unit. 
> I 
> > plan 
> > to bore through the double top plate and run the Romex down through the 
> wall 
> > and through to the outside where it would be connected to the switch box. 
> > Here are my questions: 
> > 1. Planning 2.5 ton 13SEER unit. What Romex wiring size can I run? 
> Itb s 
> > about a 
> > total of 50b . 
> 
> 30 amp breaker requires 10gauge wire, which will provide a 3% voltage 
> drop at about 100 feet. 
> 
> 
> > 2. I understand that the J-box in the attic storage space must be easily 
> > accessible. 
> > Any other placement requirements? 
> > 3. Any recommendations for the outside switch box? Is there a design 
> for 
> > going through a siding/OSB exterior wall? 
> 
> I expect they want a standard a/c disconnect, with fuses. There are 
> versions that feed through the back, from through the wall. 
> 
> > 4. Any nailing recommendations? Ib m familiar with not nailing 
> (staples) 
> > too 
> > tight on the Romex. Spacing suggestions? 
> 
> Minimum spacing is specified by the NEC. basic rule is no more than 
> 4.5 feet apart, within one foot of any box or fitting, and within 6 
> inches of a single gang box without a clamp. Also, wire should be 
> parallel with the studs (where that makes sense, of course), and needs 
> to be 1 1/4 away from the edge. If it can't be, it has to be 
> protected from nails by a plate, sleeve, or in conduit. There are 
> additional complications, but if you follow that, use sense, you'll be 
> fine. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> David Scheidt 
> dmscheidt@gmail.com 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Suggested annual donation $12.96 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com 
_______________________________________________ 

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 07:54:26 -0500
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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
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> On Aug 1, 2015, at 06:25, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Are fuses required? I've seen plenty that are just a pull-out handle...
>> On Jul 31, 2015 1

It depends on the equipment and the ahj. The equipment will say max fuse/
breaker size. If that's bigger than the branch circuit's size, a fuse or hcar
breaker is required.  If the label requires fuses, then fuses and not a
breaker are required. Since everyone has a breaker panel and not a fuse box,
the fuses go in the disconnect. (New equipment labels don't say that much
anymore. )

Bigger circuit than load is common where old equipment is replaced with more
efficient stuff, and putting fuses in the disconnect is cheaper than replacing
the breaker.

Fused disconnects are cheaper than ones that take a breaker.  Since a blown
fuse generally means equipment failure, it is not a big problem.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  1 17:40:02 2015
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:39:25 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
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> Third choice is at an existing splice.  Mid span splices are evil, and
> all of them will eventually fail, one way or another.

I can't speak specifically to that product, but I've used screw-in 
products like that before and they...did not work worth extruded fecal 
matter.

Not that I like the Scotchtap guillotines either; they work fine for a 
while, and if sized correctly they don't destroy the wire, but vibration 
and/or corrosion will eventually result in a failed connection.  I use 
them in one application and one application only - Valentine 1 remote 
wiring adapters on cars that have ignition-switched power to something 
(sunroof, dome light) in the forward headliner area.  In our driveway 
right now that means two E39 and one E53 BMW, and the Scotchtaps have 
been in two of them for 15 years without trouble.

In other applications, no thanks.  I've had to rip out and rewire 
several aftermarket alarm installations that were done with a forest of 
Scotchtaps.

When I need to do a PERMANENT tap, I'll cut the wire, slip a piece of 
heatshrink over it, a butt-joint crimp sleeve (bare kind, not the 
insulated ones) and crimp it in place with an appropriate tool, adding a 
pigtail on one side.  When necessary you can get stepped sleeves that 
are smaller on one side than the other.  Then heatshrink, and put an 
appopriate connector on the pigtail.   It's a hassle, but it's 
production-quality.

John.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
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> parallel with the studs (where that makes sense, of course), and needs
> to be 1 1/4 away from the edge.  If it can't be, it has to be
> protected from nails by a plate,

You mean perpendicular to the stud and if it goes through a hole in the 
stud w/o plate it needs to be min 1 1/4 from each face, correct?   You 
can have Romex/NM nailed to a stud but you want it to go thru the hole 
as horizontally as possible.

Also if my old info is still valid don't want to run parallel with any 
low-voltage circuits (Cat5/Cat6 or phone, etc.) within (?) distance so 
as not to induce 60Hz interference, want to maintain (12in?) clearance 
and cross LV circuits perpendicularly.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  2 03:58:30 2015
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <55B6BEC2.1080800@att.net>
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 <web-2673816@mailback2.g2host.com>
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Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2015 02:58:18 -0700
Thread-Index: AdDMs3Ilbfzb4uH0S3uaYdJI3VfhYgAVZo0g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> When I need to do a PERMANENT tap, I'll cut the wire, slip a piece of
> heatshrink over it 

That's my thought as well, except I don't generally bother with the crimped
sleeve as long as there is a bit of slack available.  Just do a Western
Union splice between the two original wires, and wrap the new wire around
behind one end of the splice; then solder and cover with heat shrink.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  2 11:22:35 2015
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 <532D3CA276C447B6A8633CD9FC68781C@Meislaptop>
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2015 12:19:42 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The last car radio swap I did, I used Posi-Locks to connect the radio
harness to the car harness adapter that came with the radio, an Alpine from
Crutchfield. These are great. Much quicker and easier than soldering, and
far better than crimp connectors.

They're a two piece deal that screws together and work a little like a wire
nut, but they form a far more secure connection. Plus they can be taken
apart easily, if needed. They're available in a variety of styles and for
different stranded wire gauges, from a variety of vendors. Not super cheap,
but how much is your time worth and they work.

RD

On Sunday, August 2, 2015, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > When I need to do a PERMANENT tap, I'll cut the wire, slip a piece of
> > heatshrink over it
>
> That's my thought as well, except I don't generally bother with the crimped
> sleeve as long as there is a bit of slack available.  Just do a Western
> Union splice between the two original wires, and wrap the new wire around
> behind one end of the splice; then solder and cover with heat shrink.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  3 17:00:38 2015
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 17:53:44 -0500
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To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Aug 1, 2015, at 18:51, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:

>> parallel with the studs (where that makes sense, of course), and needs
>> to be 1 1/4 away from the edge.  If it can't be, it has to be
>> protected from nails by a plate,
>
> You mean perpendicular to the stud and if it goes through a hole in the stud
w/o plate it needs to be min 1 1/4 from each face, correct?   You can have
Romex/NM nailed to a stud but you want it to go thru the hole as horizontally
as possible.

That too, but wires run along a framing member needs to be 1 1/4 inches from
the edge or protected by a metal plate. (There's an exception for fishing
after finishing. ). See nec 300-4 (d).


> Also if my old info is still valid don't want to run parallel with any
low-voltage circuits (Cat5/Cat6 or phone, etc.) within (?) distance so as not
to induce 60Hz interference, want to maintain (12in?) clearance and cross LV
circuits perpendicularly.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  3 21:27:29 2015
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 20:08:57 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.1.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I haven't used them lately but I've had good luck with Posi-Locks, too.  
They really made a big hit in vintage motorcycle circles.

On 8/2/2015 10:19 AM, Ronnie Day wrote:
> The last car radio swap I did, I used Posi-Locks to connect the radio
> harness to the car harness adapter that came with the radio, an Alpine from
> Crutchfield. These are great. Much quicker and easier than soldering, and
> far better than crimp connectors.
>
> They're a two piece deal that screws together and work a little like a wire
> nut, but they form a far more secure connection. Plus they can be taken
> apart easily, if needed. They're available in a variety of styles and for
> different stranded wire gauges, from a variety of vendors. Not super cheap,
> but how much is your time worth and they work.
>
> RD
>
> On Sunday, August 2, 2015, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>> When I need to do a PERMANENT tap, I'll cut the wire, slip a piece of
>>> heatshrink over it
>> That's my thought as well, except I don't generally bother with the crimped
>> sleeve as long as there is a bit of slack available.  Just do a Western
>> Union splice between the two original wires, and wrap the new wire around
>> behind one end of the splice; then solder and cover with heat shrink.
>>
>> Randall
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  8 00:09:05 2015
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To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2015 18:33:58 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all offered suggestions.

I've decided to give the Posi-Taps a try.

Initial reaction is "boy they sure are expensive".

I'll let you know what my installation experience is as soon as I get my 
car back from the body shop.

Arvid
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2015 15:53:11 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] entending home network
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

things are sure quiet here on shop-talk...   guess itbs just too hot to
type.

so... herebs a question

Using Uverse for home network... wireless works in most of the house but
outside the brick walls is dead... I want to extend to the shop... 50 feet
from the house and roughly another 75 across the house to the gateway...  I
plan on fishing a cat-5 cable under the driveway to the shop then I can plug
in my laptop in the shop...  Then I let my mind get idle and it started
thinking on itbs own (dangerous)   Can I add another wireless router (a
Belkin I used before U-verse)) at the shop end of the cat 5 and  use it to
connect my phone, ipad and laptop wireless in the shop ??

will that be the same wireless I have now ??   or will it be a second one I
must log into ??   will they conflict ???   tell me Ibm crazy.

john
_______________________________________________

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To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <04BCA75EF1864C5A85E8DA4B68C20239@UserPC>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 10:48:11 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] entending home network
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You can certainly do that.  You could configure the second router to 
operate as a run-of-the-mill access point.  That is, you'd configure the 
second router to use the same SSID and same WPA key but you'd disable 
its DHCP server and firewall (and any other routing services...NAT, QoS, 
etc).  In this configuration, your existing gateway/router will provide 
DHCP and NAT services for your entire network which is usually what you 
want.  In my experience, you'll want to plug the new ethernet cable from 
the house into one of the LAN ports on the second router instead of the 
WAN port but this might vary from device to device.

These days most wireless clients are smart enough to assume that since 
both radios are broadcasting the same SSID that they're on the same 
network and will seamless hop between them if signal quality is better.  
So you could walk from your house to your shop and back without any 
disruptions.

But before you fish cables under the driveway, you might want to look 
into directional WIFI antennas.  You can even build one yourself.  50 
(or 125) feet to your shop is nothing.


On 08/08/15 16:53, john niolon wrote:
> things are sure quiet here on shop-talk...   guess itbs just too hot to
> type.
>
> so... herebs a question
>
> Using Uverse for home network... wireless works in most of the house but
> outside the brick walls is dead... I want to extend to the shop... 50 feet
> from the house and roughly another 75 across the house to the gateway...  I
> plan on fishing a cat-5 cable under the driveway to the shop then I can plug
> in my laptop in the shop...  Then I let my mind get idle and it started
> thinking on itbs own (dangerous)   Can I add another wireless router (a
> Belkin I used before U-verse)) at the shop end of the cat 5 and  use it to
> connect my phone, ipad and laptop wireless in the shop ??
>
> will that be the same wireless I have now ??   or will it be a second one I
> must log into ??   will they conflict ???   tell me Ibm crazy.
>
> john
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  9 09:58:17 2015
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 10:54:10 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Ideas Website?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What's the name of the site that's been mentioned here on the list
frequently?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  9 10:16:44 2015
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 12:01:30 -0400
From: Larry Spector <lspector@gmail.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Ideas Website?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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http://www.garagejournal.com/

Look at the various forums there for ideas.

-Larry
On Aug 9, 2015 11:59 AM, "Ronnie Day" <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:

> What's the name of the site that's been mentioned here on the list
> frequently?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lspector@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  9 10:18:03 2015
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 12:01:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
References: <CAMHhs6fxmMnKry0=ZKW-N3cAvaOuKay+jxv8y70q=yyphZLeHw@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Ideas Website?
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On Sun, 9 Aug 2015, Ronnie Day wrote:
> What's the name of the site that's been mentioned here on the list
> frequently?

     garagejournal.com and there goes the rest of your weekend ;)

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 12:11:00 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Ideas Website?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The forums at www.garagejournal.com?

-Paul

On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 11:54 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:

> What's the name of the site that's been mentioned here on the list
> frequently?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  9 10:47:10 2015
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 11:29:55 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/38.1.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] entending home network
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What Jimmie said.  I just did this.  I bought a $30 router, configured 
it as below, works great.  And since there are no walls, I bet the 
signal will reach without trenching, without a directional "Pringles 
can" antenna, or anything; I was able to just plug it in, set it in the 
window, and I was up.  You want to make sure you match your existing 
router's type, "N" or whatever, as the routers will drop down all 
transmissions down to the slowest device on the network.

On 8/9/2015 9:48 AM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:
> You can certainly do that.  You could configure the second router to 
> operate as a run-of-the-mill access point.  That is, you'd configure 
> the second router to use the same SSID and same WPA key but you'd 
> disable its DHCP server and firewall (and any other routing 
> services...NAT, QoS, etc).  In this configuration, your existing 
> gateway/router will provide DHCP and NAT services for your entire 
> network which is usually what you want.  In my experience, you'll want 
> to plug the new ethernet cable from the house into one of the LAN 
> ports on the second router instead of the WAN port but this might vary 
> from device to device.
>
> These days most wireless clients are smart enough to assume that since 
> both radios are broadcasting the same SSID that they're on the same 
> network and will seamless hop between them if signal quality is 
> better.  So you could walk from your house to your shop and back 
> without any disruptions.
>
> But before you fish cables under the driveway, you might want to look 
> into directional WIFI antennas.  You can even build one yourself.  50 
> (or 125) feet to your shop is nothing.
>
>
> On 08/08/15 16:53, john niolon wrote:
>> things are sure quiet here on shop-talk...   guess itbs just too hot to
>> type.
>>
>> so... herebs a question
>>
>> Using Uverse for home network... wireless works in most of the house but
>> outside the brick walls is dead... I want to extend to the shop... 50 
>> feet
>> from the house and roughly another 75 across the house to the 
>> gateway...  I
>> plan on fishing a cat-5 cable under the driveway to the shop then I 
>> can plug
>> in my laptop in the shop...  Then I let my mind get idle and it started
>> thinking on itbs own (dangerous)   Can I add another wireless router (a
>> Belkin I used before U-verse)) at the shop end of the cat 5 and use 
>> it to
>> connect my phone, ipad and laptop wireless in the shop ??
>>
>> will that be the same wireless I have now ??   or will it be a second 
>> one I
>> must log into ??   will they conflict ???   tell me Ibm crazy.
>>
>> john
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/steve@hochschild.org
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 11:30:52 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Ideas Website?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's it, folks. Thanks!

On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> The forums at www.garagejournal.com?
>
> -Paul
>
> On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 11:54 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> What's the name of the site that's been mentioned here on the list
>> frequently?
_______________________________________________

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To: steve@hochschild.org, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 12:03:28 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] barn door questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I appreciate these warnings that my door was too narrow, I was all 
caught up in the barn door issue and completely forgot that I was making 
a garage door!  So it is now 11', and I will need a triple track to hang 
the six 2' wide panels, I think.    The building is 16' wide, the 11' 
opening is centered, leaving 2 1/2' on each side, so six 2' panels with 
3" overlap on each side.

More info:

I had to shoehorn this into a very confined space, so ended up with a 
two story plan on a 16' x 32' slab.  Shed roof, 2/12/ pitch, galvalume 
standing seam roof.  Exterior stairs to the second floor. First floor is 
12' useable height, second floor ceiling is 6' to 9'.  512 sq' each 
level,  AC upstairs from a (yet to be purchased) window unit installed 
through the wall.

Double doors out the back, full light service doors at the top and 
bottom of the stairway, upstairs level has a big picture window over the 
garage door, and another on the high side wall, 1st fl has a big window 
under the stairway.  Security is not really an issue.  No plumbing at 
all.  I need about 60 amps for my welders, the lift, and the AC, so I 
think that I will have to get a second meter. The plan is to build it to 
the studs, and then get someone else to immediately do the insulation 
and drywall upstairs.  I am leaning towards the cheapest laminate 
flooring  upstairs at the same time, but am open to other suggestions.  
Planning standard epoxy on the shop floor.

I paid $6500 for the slab, with a friend doing it.  This was a comedy of 
sorts, as we had to pump the concrete and none of us had done that 
before.  Then I had 3 different contractors bail on me. Austin is 
booming, there is so much work that they are all too busy doing other 
more lucrative projects, and the second floor meant that all the 
handyman level guys got scared off.

So finally I went to Tuff Shed.  Is this blasphemy on this list?

They gave me a price of under $30/sq ft, $31k. They spent this week 
pre-building some of the panels, the stairway, and anything that can fit 
on a flatbed.  They are starting on-site tomorrow and they say it will 
be done by Friday...

So this is the last chance to correct any other oversights I have made.  
Appreciate the help so far!

Steve in Bee Cave, outside of Austin, but in the county, so no permits 
required...


On 7/31/2015 10:41 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:29 PM, steve hochschild
> <steve-hochschild@att.net> wrote:
>> Look, a real shop being built and discussed on shoptalk!
>>
>> I am about to begin building my dream shop: 1024 sq ft on two floors, metal
>> shed roof, exterior stairway, and lots of other fabulous features that I
>> will talk about later.
>>
>> The 1st floor has a ceiling height of 12', so I can roll my travel trailer
>> in and work on it out of the hot Texas sun, and I need the full height.
>>
>> I propose to fabricate a pair of 4' wide by 12' high barn doors, to cover an
>> 8'wide x 12' high opening.
> You want an opening larger than 8 feet!  8 feet is a pain to get a car
> in through (espcially, if you have to push!).  Go 10 feet, 12 if you
> can.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Optima batteries
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries
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I've read that you have to have a special charger to charge this type of
battery but I cannot find that information anymore.


Can I put a Batter Tender trickle charger on a yellow top?


Thanks


clueless in WI

tim
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2015 17:49:21 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a specific Battery Tender model for gel-cell batteries.

This is what I use on mine:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0156-Charger-Model/dp/B000NCOKQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439156949&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+plus+gel+cell

-Paul

On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 5:29 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> I've read that you have to have a special charger to charge this type of
> battery but I cannot find that information anymore.
>
>
> Can I put a Batter Tender trickle charger on a yellow top?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> clueless in WI
>
> tim
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries
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too funny...I never saw my OP  but have received two replies.


Anyway, the replies are 1-1 as far as use a normal trickle or use a specific.


Anyone else?


Thanks


________________________________
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2015 4:49 PM
To: Tim .
Cc: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries

There is a specific Battery Tender model for gel-cell batteries.

This is what I use on mine:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0156-Charger-Model/dp/B000NCOKQK/ref
=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439156949&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+plus+gel+cell

-Paul

On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 5:29 PM, Tim .
I've read that you have to have a special charger to charge this type of
battery but I cannot find that information anymore.


Can I put a Batter Tender trickle charger on a yellow top?


Thanks


clueless in WI

tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 10 04:47:52 2015
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2015 06:16:50 -0400
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com, shop-talk@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries
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Interesting.  I saw the original but I saw no responses.

I've run Optima batteries for 15 years.  Rarely have I used a charger with a specific setting for AGM batteries but then I rarely use an external charger.  When I do, it is just overnight.  The regulator in the alternator doesn't know the difference yet I regularly get 7 - 8 years out of a battery with regular driving.

I have used the trickle charger from Horrible Freight for years with good results (non-automotive but still AGM batteries) but then there was an incidence in Dallas where (apparently) the regulator in the trickle charger failed and the resulting accumulation of hydrogen gas ignited causing a fire that destroyed the house and two vintage automobiles.  That said I would have no problem using a trickle charger but if you are going to leave it unattended for an extended period of time I would use a wall wart timer and set it to an hour a day.  I'd do the same with any automatic charger.

 

 Back to lurk mode.


Dave Massey


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 9, 2015 6:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries


too funny...I never saw my OP  but have received two replies.


Anyway, the
replies are 1-1 as far as use a normal trickle or use a specific.


Anyone
else?


Thanks


________________________________
From: Paul Parkanzky
<parkanzky@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2015 4:49 PM
To: Tim .
Cc: Shop
Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries

There is a specific Battery
Tender model for gel-cell batteries.

This is what I use on
mine:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0156-Charger-Model/dp/B000NCOKQK/ref
=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439156949&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+plus+gel+cell

-Paul

On
Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 5:29 PM, Tim
.
wrote:
I've read that you have to have a special charger to charge this type
of
battery but I cannot find that information anymore.


Can I put a Batter
Tender trickle charger on a yellow top?


Thanks


clueless in
WI

tim
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Tim .'" <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2015 06:44:21 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Optima batteries
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> I've read that you have to have a special charger to charge this type of
> battery but I cannot find that information anymore.
> 
> Can I put a Batter Tender trickle charger on a yellow top?

Of course you _can_, the real question is what happens when you do <g>

After comparing specs for the Optima Yellowtop
<http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/support/battery-care/charging/>
And the Deltran "Battery Tender Plus" 
<http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Deltran%20battery%20charger%2
0spec%20sheets.pdf>

I'd say that the BT+ is not totally optimal, as it doesn't take the
absorption phase voltage quite as high as suggested by Optima (14.4 volts vs
14.7 volts plus a 1hr 2 amp finishing charge); but should work well enough.


In practice, I doubt you'll notice the difference.  Battery life might be
just a tiny bit shorter, but there are so many other factors that affect
battery life that it will be impossible to know if using the BT+ had
anything to do with it.

Randall
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 00:18:25 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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It is my understanding that modern codes favor black pipe.  In New 
York, I don't think copper is allowed with gas, especially if it is 
inside a wall.  The concern is that someone drives a nail, hits the 
pipe and creates a small leak.  Eventually enough gas leaks out that 
a spark can blow up the whole house.  Also, gas work typically 
requires leak testing with a pressure gauge.  The system has to hold 
pressure for a certain amount of time to prove that there are no 
leaks, even small ones.  That is the big difference between water and 
gas.  A small water leak may rot out some boards and wet some carpet 
or sheetrock.  A small gas leak, given some time, can create an 
explosive situation.  I am not saying don't do it.  Just learn a lot 
about what you are doing and what the requirements are.  Read stuff, 
ask people, get all the information you can.  Maybe you can find a 
pro who would review your plans and look over and test the finished 
work, for a reasonable fee.  I don't know if you can find someone 
willing to do that, but it might be a good solution if you can.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 09:47:13 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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Do modern codes really favor CSST or do modern businesses just favor 
it because it is easier and cheaper to install?  I don't really know 
the answer to that.  The answer probably depends on where you 
live.  In any event, I guess what I meant to say  is that modern 
codes and utilities do not favor copper.  At least around here.

At 02:09 AM 8/11/2015, John Miller wrote:
>On August 10, 2015 9:18:25 PM PDT, Steven Trovato 
><strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> >It is my understanding that modern codes favor black pipe.
>I think 'modern' codes for better or worse favor CSST.
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 10:45:13 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 9:47 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> Do modern codes really favor CSST or do modern businesses just favor it
> because it is easier and cheaper to install?  I don't really know the answer
> to that.  The answer probably depends on where you live.  In any event, I
> guess what I meant to say  is that modern codes and utilities do not favor
> copper.  At least around here.


I'm pondering how one would re-solder a pinhole leak in a copper gas
pipe system.  I can't think of a way that doesn't involve the solderer
becoming an involuntary astronaut.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 12:17:15 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
 mail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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What I'm reading seems to indicate that you shouldn't be soldering 
copper gas lines.  You have to braze with melting point over 1000 
degrees or use other "approved fittings."  Here's a forum discussing 
it:  http://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14742

As for the pinhole problem, on initial installation I imagine one 
could charge and pressure test the whole system with air or nitrogen 
or something.  Then redoing something wouldn't be any more hazardous 
than doing it the first time.  Of course, once the system has had gas 
in it, it's a different story.

-Steve

At 10:45 AM 8/11/2015, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>I'm pondering how one would re-solder a pinhole leak in a copper gas
>pipe system.  I can't think of a way that doesn't involve the solderer
>becoming an involuntary astronaut.
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 11:45:42 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Well...if I can't set up copper gas lines the same way I'd set up copper
water lines, copper is right out.  If I've got to learn a new skill, I
might as well learn how to join black iron to be leak free. I'll need that
when I set up the air lines in the garage, anyway.

I'm thinking I'll set up the system up to the point of connecting it to the
meter. Then I'll have someone come and pressure test it and connect it.
That way I'll know it's done right (because I did it), and probably cheaper
too. And also I'll mitigate the chance of sending my house into low earth
orbit.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 11:17 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:

> What I'm reading seems to indicate that you shouldn't be soldering copper
> gas lines.  You have to braze with melting point over 1000 degrees or use
> other "approved fittings."  Here's a forum discussing it:
> http://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14742
>
> As for the pinhole problem, on initial installation I imagine one could
> charge and pressure test the whole system with air or nitrogen or
> something.  Then redoing something wouldn't be any more hazardous than
> doing it the first time.  Of course, once the system has had gas in it,
> it's a different story.
>
> -Steve
>
> At 10:45 AM 8/11/2015, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>
>> I'm pondering how one would re-solder a pinhole leak in a copper gas
>> pipe system.  I can't think of a way that doesn't involve the solderer
>> becoming an involuntary astronaut.
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 09:49:07 -0700
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> I'm pondering how one would re-solder a pinhole leak in a copper gas
> pipe system.  I can't think of a way that doesn't involve the solderer
> becoming an involuntary astronaut.

I guess you'd want to be isolating the area you're working on and 
purging it with something inert before you light up.

I don't imagine this kind of thing would be widely accepted by 
authorities overseeing much residential/light commercial construction.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 11 11:26:01 2015
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 13:04:03 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
 mail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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Funny you should say that.  I did my air lines
with copper "just like water lines" in my
garage.  Other than the cost of copper, I haven't
really come up with any drawbacks.

-Steve

At 12:45 PM 8/11/2015, Scott Hall wrote:
>Well...if I can't set up copper gas lines the
>same way I'd set up copper water lines, copper
>is right out.B  If I've got to learn a new
>skill, I might as well learn how to join black
>iron to be leak free. I'll need that when I set
>up the air lines in the garage, anyway.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 12:30:52 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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Wait...you did your air lines in copper?

This is the part where I tell you no matter whether you're using type L or
M, eventually it will fatigue and explode. Copper shrapnel everywhere.

Yes, you *can* use copper. You can use Sch. 80, too, and you can use
soldered copper on gas lines (I've got a house full of it now, in fact).

(The benefit of black iron for air to me has always been the thermal
capacity of the pipe. But then again, I worked two feel from a Sch. 40 air
line for a few years in college. I'd never suggest anyone do that, but it
always does temper my panic about things somewhat.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 12:04 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:

> Funny you should say that.  I did my air lines with copper "just like
> water lines" in my garage.  Other than the cost of copper, I haven't really
> come up with any drawbacks.
>
> -Steve
>
> At 12:45 PM 8/11/2015, Scott Hall wrote:
>
>> Well...if I can't set up copper gas lines the same way I'd set up copper
>> water lines, copper is right out.C  If I've got to learn a new skill, I
>> might as well learn how to join black iron to be leak free. I'll need that
>> when I set up the air lines in the garage, anyway.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 12:34:47 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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I'd think you'd just remove the section of pipe. You really can't solder a
pinhole leak shut, even on water lines. Eventually the solder will give way.

You can get a sleeve, I suppose, but I'd imagine you'd want to remove the
pipe to slide the sleeve over it anyway, which means removing the section
of pipe anyway...

I guess someone probably makes a sleeve that is split so you don't need to
remove the section of pipe, too, but geez...like someone else said, this
stuff goes boom if you mess up. Take the section out and put in a new
section.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 11:49 AM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:

> I'm pondering how one would re-solder a pinhole leak in a copper gas
>> pipe system.  I can't think of a way that doesn't involve the solderer
>> becoming an involuntary astronaut.
>>
>
> I guess you'd want to be isolating the area you're working on and purging
> it with something inert before you light up.
>
> I don't imagine this kind of thing would be widely accepted by authorities
> overseeing much residential/light commercial construction.
>
> John.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 11 12:56:02 2015
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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 14:28:39 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
 mail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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I knew when I wrote that I would be opening that
can of worms yet again.  Go search around and
find any evidence of "copper shrapnel
everywhere."  What you say is true for PVC, but I
really don't think it applies to copper.  If a
pipe split or a joint failed, I believe that
there would be a lot of rushing air and the
compressor would work really hard to try to
pressurize the whole garage, but I don't think
anything dangerous would happen.  I think there
is greater risk to having an air hose fail and
whipping all over.  Copper seems to be a
legitimate choice for compressed air, though not
everyone's first choice.  Here is one source
(http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Knowledge%20Base/Air%20Data/
Pages/CompressedAirPiping.aspx),
scroll down to "metal pipe" and then see "copper pipe" in that category.

-Steve


At 01:30 PM 8/11/2015, Scott Hall wrote:
>Wait...you did your air lines in copper?
>
>This is the part where I tell you no matter
>whether you're using type L or M, eventually it
>will fatigue and explode. Copper shrapnel everywhere.
>
>Yes, you *can* use copper. You can use Sch. 80,
>too, and you can use soldered copper on gas
>lines (I've got a house full of it now, in fact).B
>
>(The benefit of black iron for air to me has
>always been the thermal capacity of the pipe.
>But then again, I worked two feel from a Sch. 40
>air line for a few years in college. I'd never
>suggest anyone do that, but it always does
>temper my panic about things somewhat.
_______________________________________________

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The first attempt to send this got eaten by the moderator daemon.

> On Aug 11, 2015, at 08:47, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> Do modern codes really favor CSST or do modern businesses just favor it
because it is easier and cheaper to install?


Cast isn't much cheaper to install than black pipe.
Cast needs protection against nail strikes, dog bites, and lightning.  Doing
that eats up the installation cost advantage, most places.  Cut corners and
it's a lot cheaper. It will burn down sooner, too.

I wouldn't buy a house with csst, and I'd never install it either, other than
as an appliance drop.   I might have a different opinion if I lived in
California or other earthquake country. Flexibility is csst big advantage.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 14:37:41 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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Nah, man, I was going to do all my air pipe in type M copper (because it's
easier for me to work with) before I gave in, so I won't give you a hard
time. And like I said, I worked with my face two feet from a sch. 40 air
line for years (before I knew better).

I'll never, ever recommend any one do air lines in anything but black iron,
but the whole, "You'll put your eye out!!!" is counter-productive, I think.
It goes against experience. It's not a great idea, but it's also not an
immediate death sentence. And I agree that the likely failure of copper is
a split, not an explosion. But it *can* happen (just like sch. 40 can
rupture catastrophically, even if when it blew up in our shop is was just a
loud noise with zero injury).

I agree with Benjamin--the real risk with copper is the solder melting if
too close to the compressor.

Having said all that, I don't mind doing my gas lines in black iron if
that's the 'right' way to do it. I need to learn how, and I'm wondering if
iron will be cheaper than copper, anyway. No matter what I'm going to have
normal shut-off valves--with handles-- places appropriately.

Scott

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 1:28 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:

> I knew when I wrote that I would be opening that can of worms yet again.
> Go search around and find any evidence of "copper shrapnel everywhere."
> What you say is true for PVC, but I really don't think it applies to
> copper.  If a pipe split or a joint failed, I believe that there would be a
> lot of rushing air and the compressor would work really hard to try to
> pressurize the whole garage, but I don't think anything dangerous would
> happen.  I think there is greater risk to having an air hose fail and
> whipping all over.  Copper seems to be a legitimate choice for compressed
> air, though not everyone's first choice.  Here is one source (
>
http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Knowledge%20Base/Air%20Data/P
ages/CompressedAirPiping.aspx),
> scroll down to "metal pipe" and then see "copper pipe" in that category.
>
> -Steve
>
>
> At 01:30 PM 8/11/2015, Scott Hall wrote:
>
>> Wait...you did your air lines in copper?
>>
>> This is the part where I tell you no matter whether you're using type L
>> or M, eventually it will fatigue and explode. Copper shrapnel everywhere.
>>
>> Yes, you *can* use copper. You can use Sch. 80, too, and you can use
>> soldered copper on gas lines (I've got a house full of it now, in fact).C
>>
>> (The benefit of black iron for air to me has always been the thermal
>> capacity of the pipe. But then again, I worked two feel from a Sch. 40 air
>> line for a few years in college. I'd never suggest anyone do that, but it
>> always does temper my panic about things somewhat.
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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The risk there would only be to the first soldered fitting, I would 
think.  You can always silver solder that one.  If it does fail, it 
is not going to explode or anything.

-Steve

At 03:37 PM 8/11/2015, Scott Hall wrote:
>I agree with Benjamin--the real risk with copper is the solder 
>melting if too close to the compressor.
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Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2015 16:45:15 -0400
From: Joe Szwed <szwedj@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] on the subject of copper and pvc air lines
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In regards to the copper/pvc air line discussion.  It always seems be a
heated topic.  In a couple quick searches to industry sources, I found the
following:

On page 9 in the following booklet.

http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf

"Compressed AirbUse copper tube of Types K, L or M determined by the rated
internal working pressures as shown in Table 3. Brazed joints are
recommended."

In regards to PVC, in this manual:

http://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/PL_Tech_Man/Charlotte_Plastics_Tech_Ma
nual.pdf

Under this section: SUBMITTAL FOR CHARLOTTE PIPEB. PVC SCHEDULE 40 PRESSURE
PIPE AND FITTING SYSTEM

You see the following:

WARNING! Never test with or transport/store compressed air or gas in PVC
pipe or fittings. Doing so can result in explosive failures and cause
severe injury or death.

On a different but similar situation, I find it interesting that PVC pipe
is commonly used to vent flue gas from boilers and water heaters etc, yet
no where will you find a manufacturer of PVC pipe who rates their pipe for
that application.

Joe
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 19:33:37 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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I turned 50 this year, and realized the past 25 years were one long fix-it
session. While I made a living at it, and saved some $ DIYing, I'm
contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that monthly
HOA check.

I'm curious if any of you have considered this, and what the outcome was. None
of the tools are sentimental, or (with the exception of the Festo circular
saw) high end.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 20:02:18 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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I did it in 2009.
From: 4 bedroom 4000 sqft house, 3 bay garage and 22 x 16' shop with 80
gallon air, etc.
To:  Manhattan apartment
I gave/sold a bunch of stuff to local friends, but the bulk of it went to
my inlaws farm (they have tons of space, out-buildings, etc.)
It's at once nice to not have to worry about anything...while also
constantly telling myself if I had [this tool] I could fix that rather than
pay someone a small fortune or wait for an HOA/building person to do it
(usually not to my satisfaction).

THEN, we got pregnant with twins and moved to the suburbs (circle of
life?).  I gradually moved things from the farm to the new house and bought
some new tools, but the exercise has made me rationalize many purchases and
curb my packrat nature (e.g., I get by with a pancake compressor instead of
an 80 gal with hardlines).  Our latest house does have a 20 x 40' woodshop
setup by the PO, so it's temping to fill it back up.

The wife and I saw the perks of boro/city living and will be going back to
that when the boys graduate high school, so we say (we'll be in our 50s).
A friend of mine has a nice compromise, he lives in a condo, but is a
volunteer firefighter and has access to a really nice shop/tools at the
station--not a bad compromise.

-Ian

On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 7:33 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
wrote:
>
>
> I'm curious if any of you have considered this, and what the outcome was.
> None
> of the tools are sentimental, or (with the exception of the Festo circular
> saw) high end.
_______________________________________________

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From: Lee Hart <LeeHart@LeeHart.Com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, "Shop-talk@autox.team.net"
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Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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I bought a set of tools that way. They were mostly Snap-on tools in a pair of
Snap-on chests, bought for roughly the price of a new set of chests. The
former owner owned an auto repair shop and had not spun a wrench in a long
time.  He moved into a townhouse half the size of his house that I was buying.
He did regret the sale.

Lee



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


-------- Original message --------
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: 8/22/2015 16:34 (GMT-08:00)
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?

I turned 50 this year, and realized the past 25 years were one long fix-it
session. While I made a living at it, and saved some $ DIYing, I'm
contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that monthly
HOA check.

I'm curious if any of you have considered this, and what the outcome was.
None
of the tools are sentimental, or (with the exception of the Festo circular
saw) high end.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/leehart@leehart.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <AF9F8103-293A-405B-A2EC-E233318043A5@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 23:37:42 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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> I'm
> contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that
> monthly
> HOA check.

Takes all kinds, I guess.  That would be the kiss of death for me, only two
steps removed from the nursing home.  

I just turned 60, and retired.  It's not about saving money or making a
living, but doing the things I enjoy.  Got a 1914 player piano that I'd love
to make play again; and here in a few days I hope to hear a 1948 "Johnny
Popper" make that lovely exhaust note once again.  With no tools, I'd be
sitting on the couch watching Seinfeld reruns!

Just noticed your email addy.  Say Hi to Arlo for me <G>

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 24 10:54:48 2015
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <AF9F8103-293A-405B-A2EC-E233318043A5@groupwbench.org>
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 12:54:41 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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On 8/22/2015 7:33 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I turned 50 this year, and realized the past 25 years were one long fix-it
> session. While I made a living at it, and saved some $ DIYing, I'm
> contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that monthly
> HOA check.
>
> I'm curious if any of you have considered this, and what the outcome was. None
> of the tools are sentimental, or (with the exception of the Festo circular
> saw) high end.

More like the reverse.  Moved from apartments when single to house when 
married.

When single I kept a tool chest, small floor jack and stands for the 
car.  For non auto a couple of buckets with the basic hand tools, 
circular saw, jig saw, corded drill, sander, router, angle grinder, 
etc.  With a clamping straight edge and saw horses I could do most of 
what I use my table saw for now.

You might consider going through your tools and culling them down to the 
basics.  The big tools you could sell/donate to a close friend/family so 
you can use them if needed.
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 14:32:11 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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At 12:54 PM 8/24/2015, as Peter wrote:

 >You might consider going through your tools and culling them down to the
 > basics.  The big tools you could sell/donate to a close 
friend/family so you can
 >use them if needed.

One of my buddies moved into a 2 bedroom condo in the DC area.  He 
loved wood working, so he turned his extra bedroom into his work 
shop.  Table saw
and all.  So if you have an extra room, you may not have to get rid off all the
tools.

Unfortunately, my dad passed away reciently.  We'd built a 6 bay shop 
at his place and had everything, table saw, radial arm saw, belt 
sanders, several band saws,
Arc & O/A welding, BridgePort milling machine, drill press, metal and 
wood lathes,
etc.  Unfortunately all the tools wouldn't fit in my 2 car 
garage.  So we had to off a
lot of the big tools.  Some of the smaller tools, the riobi planer, 
some so of the
small band saws, a small drill press, etc will be going to my youngest son.

Been working on cleaning out his place for 6 mo. now and it's still a mess. :)

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 24 12:52:25 2015
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 18:45:49 GMT
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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John wrote:
Unfortunately, my dad passed away reciently. ...   Sorry for your loss John.
My wife has been threatening me to get some projects moving and clean up the
shop.She claims "if you pass away and leave me with all that crap, I am gonna
have the garage sale you always dreamed of finding!" That's right Craig's ad:
BITTER WIDOW UNLOADS HUBBY's SHOP FOR PENNIES ON THE DOLLAR! I am not even a
senior citizen yet!  She is right though, time to get my butt in gear. I will
tell her to post it here as well.  MB
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From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools? (Peter J. Thomas)
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>> >I turned 50 this year, and realized the past 25 years were one long fix-it
>> >session. While I made a living at it, and saved some $ DIYing, I'm
>> >contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that monthly
>> >HOA check.
>> >
>> >I'm curious if any of you have considered this, and what the outcome was. None
>> >of the tools are sentimental, or (with the exception of the Festo circular
>> >saw) high end.

I'd recommend finding someone you can loan them all to so that if you 
need/want anything in the future you can borrow it back.  And you will 
want something some time.  Kids, maybe?  Drinking buddy?
If you sell them you won't get anywhere what they are worth and there is 
likely to be anger at you from your future self.

Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 24 17:55:03 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 19:27:55 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/24/2015 19:27:55, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools? (Peter J. Thomas)
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Mark writes...
>I'd recommend finding someone you can loan them all to so that if you 
>need/want anything in the future you can borrow it back.


In fact, I bet you couldn't find a better bunch of guys than your buddies 
right here on this list!!

I'll be happy to 'store' all your tools here and you can use them whenever 
you want.  I'll even pay to have them shipped here!

8>)



Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 24 18:43:51 2015
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 <55DB9D30.4010407@threeboysfarm.com>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 17:42:56 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools? (Peter J. Thomas)
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> I'd recommend finding someone you can loan them all to so that if you
> need/want anything in the future you can borrow it back.  And you will
> want something some time.  Kids, maybe?  Drinking buddy?
> If you sell them you won't get anywhere what they are worth and there is
> likely to be anger at you from your future self.

CALL 1-800-SHOP-TALK

TRUCKS ARE WAITING THROUGHOUT THE LOWER 48

BEER QUALITY DEPENDS ON INVENTORY

John.
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 20:24:39 -0500
References: <AF9F8103-293A-405B-A2EC-E233318043A5@groupwbench.org>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On Aug 22, 2015, at 18:33, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>
> I turned 50 this year, and realized the past 25 years were one long fix-it
> session. While I made a living at it, and saved some $ DIYing, I'm
> contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that monthly
> HOA check.

Another alternative is to outsource the bits you don't like (lawn care, snow
removal, routine car maintenance?), and do the stuff you do like (restoring?
Fabrication?).   Depending on where you are, things like lawn mowing can be
ridiculously cheap, and give a bunch of time to other things.

On the other hand, if you do go for a condo, keep enough tools to do stuff
you'd feel like an idiot calling a plumber for.
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Is any one near......
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Is any one near......
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

....Canton, New York? Or do you know someone who lives near there?


I know it's a long shot but if so, please reply off list so that I may ask you
a question.


Thanks!

tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 27 14:51:43 2015
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References: <AF9F8103-293A-405B-A2EC-E233318043A5@groupwbench.org>
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2015 15:48:45 -0500
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ever sell off all your tools?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

I just spent 2.5 years in apartments for work--two years in Coral Gables
(Miami), six months in the snowy north.

Had a co-worker that did nearly the same thing and said he loved it.

...I did not. There was always a loose doorknob/faucet/whatever that
required that tool that I had but left in the house 500 miles away. There
would be some mini-project I wanted to deal with but no tools (and no where
to work).

The only time I liked it was when the fridge in the apartment died. I had
no tools and no multimeter. I just called the landlord. Took way too long
and three trips and the guy left a incredible mess behind, but I don't know
anything about refrigerators anyway.

Car stuff was the worst. Oil change? There is _no_way_ I'm taking it to
someone to put God knows what cheap oil and filter in it for $69.99, or
$299 for new brake pads, etc. So everything meant a 500 mile (one way)
trip, sometimes in a car I'd prefer not to be driving.

I just bought a house partially just to get out of apartments. Yes, I might
blow up the house changing gas lines (actually, I haven't so far, but I
hook up the new heater this weekend), but at least I'm not waiting,
wondering when the slack-jawed moron will finally show up to do a
half-assed job. If there's going to be a slack-jawed moron half-assing it,
I'll be that moron, at least.

I think it's just a personality thing. If you think you might like it, you
probably will. I know my co-worker said he had lots more free time, and
enjoyed it. If I had mechanics and repairmen that I knew to do good work,
timely and at reasonable prices I might like it more. I don't, so I didn't.

Scott

On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 6:33 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
wrote:

> I turned 50 this year, and realized the past 25 years were one long fix-it
> session. While I made a living at it, and saved some $ DIYing, I'm
> contemplating moving into a condo in the city and just writing that monthly
> HOA check.
>
> I'm curious if any of you have considered this, and what the outcome was.
> None
> of the tools are sentimental, or (with the exception of the Festo circular
> saw) high end.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 30 15:30:02 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2015 17:25:23 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Your personal positive experience removing hydraulic
 fluid from asphalt?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I.e., I can and have looked at all the remedies on the internet :-)

Landscaper has a POS equipment. It's been there for a week, baking in the sun,
good and dry now.

What has worked for you?

thanks,
jim
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

