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Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 18:23:59 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm asking you guys primarily because you know everything.

Secondarily, this thing will end up in the garage. But I'm mostly not even
pretending this is a shop-related question.

I just bought a foreclosure.

The previous owners gutted the kitchen on their way out. This is good
because the house was cheap, and I'll be able to get the s/o the kitchen
she wants, and someone's already done the demolition for me.

But I'm going to live in this in the interim, and I need a refrigerator.
Eventually, there will be a built in something-or-other that will no doubt
cost more than my first car. Until then, I just want something that will
keep things cold, and that I can later re-purpose for my fridge in the
garage.

So with that in mind, what should I buy? My main concern is simple,
durable, and able to survive (eventually) in a garage environment. I'm not
real excited about buying a diamond plate model, but beyond that aesthetics
aren't too important.

So...if you were able to buy a fridge for your shop (that would live on
your house for a few months first), what would you get? Do top- or
bottom-freezers last longer/use less electricity/whatever? Do you find
yourself wishing your fridge did something it doesn't do now? Since it's
mine and mine alone I can pick whatever I want.

Thanks fellas.

Scott
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  1 18:24:45 2015
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Date: Wed, 01 Jul 2015 17:23:29 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, 
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u4dT_xO4jyMvqCNuq9ZNBNSYTL7K6f068-EKPq4G=vzXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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Scott - I have a bottom freezer with french doors on the top for the 
fridge in my kitchen.  The nice thing about the two doors on top is you 
don't need as much space to open the doors.  My parents had a regular 
1980's vintage fridge in their garage and you couldn't open the door all 
the way if a car was in the garage.  We have a compact kitchen and it is 
much nicer to have the french door design compared to the older top 
freezer if there is more than one person in the kitchen.

When looking for my current fridge I quickly eliminated a side by side 
because you couldn't put a frozen pizza in freezer side.

That said, in your case I'd probably just get a basic white or black top 
freezer of large enough capacity for your family to save money. I'd even 
skip the ice maker and water dispenser since you are not likely to want 
them in the garage anyway and they take away space. Look for a 4th of 
July advertised special to save even more.

Congratulations on the foreclosure.  I got mine in 2009.  It took 6 
weeks of evening and weekend work to be able to move in, but we are in a 
great location and the house is now worth much more than we paid.  If 
you have not already done so, I recommend a professional home inspection 
to help you identify any issues you might have missed.  If you are in a 
termite area, also get a professional termite company to inspect the 
property.  I would consider it to be a small insurance policy to catch 
things early before they become more of a problem

I'm in the middle of a double bathroom renovation that involved both rot 
and termite damage.  In addition, before you start putting the kitchen 
back together, make sure the subfloor is absolutely solid under the old 
fridge/dishwasher/sink areas in case they had water damage.  Stiffen up 
the floor if needed if you intend to put in tile.  I replaced my 
bathroom 1x6 diagonal board with 3/4" plywood topped with 1/2" plywood 
(offset joints) and it is solid - no cracked grout like the old floor.  
It took a day of work, but I'm very happy that I know all the wood is 
good and the rot is gone.

Brian

On 7/1/2015 4:23 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
> I'm asking you guys primarily because you know everything.
>
> Secondarily, this thing will end up in the garage. But I'm mostly not even
> pretending this is a shop-related question.
>
> I just bought a foreclosure.
>
> The previous owners gutted the kitchen on their way out. This is good
> because the house was cheap, and I'll be able to get the s/o the kitchen
> she wants, and someone's already done the demolition for me.
>
> But I'm going to live in this in the interim, and I need a refrigerator.
> Eventually, there will be a built in something-or-other that will no doubt
> cost more than my first car. Until then, I just want something that will
> keep things cold, and that I can later re-purpose for my fridge in the
> garage.
>
> So with that in mind, what should I buy? My main concern is simple,
> durable, and able to survive (eventually) in a garage environment. I'm not
> real excited about buying a diamond plate model, but beyond that aesthetics
> aren't too important.
>
> So...if you were able to buy a fridge for your shop (that would live on
> your house for a few months first), what would you get? Do top- or
> bottom-freezers last longer/use less electricity/whatever? Do you find
> yourself wishing your fridge did something it doesn't do now? Since it's
> mine and mine alone I can pick whatever I want.
>
> Thanks fellas.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 21:36:29 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, shop-talk
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015 at 6:23 PM, Scott Hall
<scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:

> So...if you were able to buy a fridge for your shop (that would live on
> your house for a few months first), what would you get? Do top- or
> bottom-freezers last longer/use less electricity/whatever? Do you find
> yourself wishing your fridge did something it doesn't do now? Since it's
> mine and mine alone I can pick whatever I want.
>

In addition to what Brian said, consider buying a used one.  Plenty of
fridges get replaced because the owner bought something nicer.  I
wouldn't go too old, because they've got much more efficient, but I'd
look.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Jul 1, 2015, at 7:23 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:

> So...if you were able to buy a fridge for your shop (that would live on
> your house for a few months first), what would you get? Do top- or
> bottom-freezers last longer/use less electricity/whatever? Do you find
> yourself wishing your fridge did something it doesn't do now? Since it's
> mine and mine alone I can pick whatever I want.

I have a bottom freezer which I like because of the drawer, and french doors
which I like because I have a narrow galley kitchen, but won't buy again if I
have amore square kitchen.

Do you have a Sears scratch & dent near you? Often some really cheap
appliances with good bones and a giant forklift hole or footprint being the
only issue.

Otherwise, buy used like someone said. But, not more than ~7 years old since
efficiencies change kinda fast.

jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  1 22:01:54 2015
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From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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When the guys from my local appliance store deliver a new 
refrigerator and take away a really nice used one, it ends up back at 
the warehouse where the guy there sells it used.  I don't know if 
this is exactly a sanctioned activity in the eyes of the appliance 
company, but I'm sure it happens all the time.  The used ones are 
never advertised, but the local builders and landlords know the 
deal.  Ask around.

-Steve T.


>On Jul 1, 2015, at 7:23 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>Otherwise, buy used like someone said. But, not more than ~7 years old since
>efficiencies change kinda fast.
>
>jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Scott, 

Where is the house and is the garage heated and cooled? When we bought our new house a couple of years ago and went shopping for a new refrigerator for the garage (as a second fridge for the house, not as a shop fridge), we were told by several appliance dealers that a refrigerator-freezer is not appropriate for unheated space in NJ and using it in the garage will void the warranty. However, we found a Frigidaire unit that can be a stand-alone freezer or a stand-alone refrigerator at the flip of a switch. It has been great for us and gives us lots of extra storage (with no freezer space there is that much more room for "12 ounce shop essentials"). Of course, with 4 teenage children at the time we also bought one to use as a freezer so we had both spaces covered. If you only have room for 1 unit, this will not work for you. 

Tom 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> 
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2015 7:23:59 PM 
Subject: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator 

I'm asking you guys primarily because you know everything. 

Secondarily, this thing will end up in the garage. But I'm mostly not even 
pretending this is a shop-related question. 

I just bought a foreclosure. 

The previous owners gutted the kitchen on their way out. This is good 
because the house was cheap, and I'll be able to get the s/o the kitchen 
she wants, and someone's already done the demolition for me. 

But I'm going to live in this in the interim, and I need a refrigerator. 
Eventually, there will be a built in something-or-other that will no doubt 
cost more than my first car. Until then, I just want something that will 
keep things cold, and that I can later re-purpose for my fridge in the 
garage. 

So with that in mind, what should I buy? My main concern is simple, 
durable, and able to survive (eventually) in a garage environment. I'm not 
real excited about buying a diamond plate model, but beyond that aesthetics 
aren't too important. 

So...if you were able to buy a fridge for your shop (that would live on 
your house for a few months first), what would you get? Do top- or 
bottom-freezers last longer/use less electricity/whatever? Do you find 
yourself wishing your fridge did something it doesn't do now? Since it's 
mine and mine alone I can pick whatever I want. 

Thanks fellas. 

Scott 
_______________________________________________ 

Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 11:42:32 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Minor comment, but when you eventually do move it to the garage, make sure
you have an outlet for it that is not on a GFI protected circuit.  It would
be a shame to have the GFI trip and shutdown the fridge.

- Ian
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 10:56:58 2015
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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 12:54:52 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
 mail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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Just out of curiosity, what is the main reason for the popularity of 
a fridge in the garage?  Is it just to have a conveniently located 
beverage when you're working?  A second fridge adds to the power 
bill, especially when it's an old inefficient unit that is demoted to 
garage status.  It also takes up a bunch of space.  I guess I can see 
it if it's a detached garage/shop that's far away.  My garage/shop 
space is under the living space of my house.  If I have to go 
upstairs once in a while to pee, then it's no big deal to bring down 
a couple of cans or bottles.  For me, the main thing I guess is the 
room.  I have a pretty big space, and I still have a hard time 
finding a place for all the stuff I have.

-Steve
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 11:37:33 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 13:14:16 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 07/02/2015 13:14:05, Serialize complete at
 07/02/2015 13:14:05
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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Steve makes the point about a frig in the garage.

I have to say that I'm with Steve on this.  I have a 2500 SqFt garage and 
extra fridges in storage buildings, but I never see a need for frig in the 
garage.  (Big caveat, I don't drink either.)

I do have a microwave, coffee pot, dishwasher, oven, sink, and psydo 
toilet in there, but I would have no need for a frig.  8>)


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 11:41:55 2015
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 13:41:46 -0400
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We renovated our kitchen in 2011 and moved the then 5+-year-old
conventional (freezer on top, single door on bottom) fridge/freezer to the
garage - and it has been fine. My only complaint is that it doesn't have
quite enough insulation on the bottom of the freezer door, and as a result
there is condensation that appears there on more humid days.

We don't have heating or cooling in the garage space, but it is fully
insulated, so it never drops below 35F, even when it is -19F outside (rare
here in Northern Virginia, but it happens). If you can insulate the garage,
I do recommend it!

It is handy having a fridge in the garage for beverages as well as for
kitchen overflow. Keeps muddy kids out of the house if they just want a
drink.

The nice bottom freezer/french doors on top Kenmore Elite is excellent in
the kitchen (it only has water on the door, with an auto-icemaker in the
freezer, which takes up much less space). Ours has a satin-finish that
simulates stainless steel, but is still magnetic. I picked it up at our
nearby Sears Hardware, which had it at 50% off.

My parents-in-law have an un-insulated/open outbuilding that has two
fridge/freezers, and they run just fine for them year-round. Located in
Montrose, CO, they see a broad swing of temperatures, from 100F+ to -10F.
They're probably each over 15 years old, though.

-Peter


On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 12:54 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:

> Just out of curiosity, what is the main reason for the popularity of a
> fridge in the garage?  Is it just to have a conveniently located beverage
> when you're working?  A second fridge adds to the power bill, especially
> when it's an old inefficient unit that is demoted to garage status.  It
> also takes up a bunch of space.  I guess I can see it if it's a detached
> garage/shop that's far away.  My garage/shop space is under the living
> space of my house.  If I have to go upstairs once in a while to pee, then
> it's no big deal to bring down a couple of cans or bottles.  For me, the
> main thing I guess is the room.  I have a pretty big space, and I still
> have a hard time finding a place for all the stuff I have.
>
> -Steve
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 11:58:45 2015
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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 10:59:16 -0400
From: Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[C2AE7BF0:01D0B4F0]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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For me it is the regular fridge overflow.

Jack

--- Original Message ---

From: "Steven Trovato" <strovato@optonline.net>
Sent: July 2, 2015 12:57 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator

Just out of curiosity, what is the main reason for the popularity of
a fridge in the garage?  Is it just to have a conveniently located
beverage when you're working?  A second fridge adds to the power
bill, especially when it's an old inefficient unit that is demoted to
garage status.  It also takes up a bunch of space.  I guess I can see
it if it's a detached garage/shop that's far away.  My garage/shop
space is under the living space of my house.  If I have to go
upstairs once in a while to pee, then it's no big deal to bring down
a couple of cans or bottles.  For me, the main thing I guess is the
room.  I have a pretty big space, and I still have a hard time
finding a place for all the stuff I have.

-Steve
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 12:22:08 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Steven Trovato'" <strovato@optonline.net>,
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 11:21:16 -0700
Thread-Index: AdC06CuPjhXBcCAwS6ua1+NsvN3FCwACbQ7Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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> It also takes up a bunch of space. 

FWIW, you can get smaller "under counter" units that take up a lot less floor space.  Even a little "dorm room" refrigerator will
hold a dozen or more of your favorite 12 oz beverage cans and still leave some room for storage under the bench.

Depends a lot on what you do in your shop; but sometimes it's nice to just pop open a cold one without having to clean up enough to
go in the house.  They do cost something to run, but chances are that it's a whole lot less than you're spending on containerized
beverages.  

-- Randall  
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 14:25:48 -0400
References: <CAK73_u4dT_xO4jyMvqCNuq9ZNBNSYTL7K6f068-EKPq4G=vzXQ@mail.gmail.com>
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To: eric@megageek.com, Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I donbt want to hijack this thread, but what is a psydo (pseudo?) toilet.
Or, donbt I want to know?

> On Jul 2, 2015, at 1:14 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> Steve makes the point about a frig in the garage.
>
> I have to say that I'm with Steve on this.  I have a 2500 SqFt garage and
> extra fridges in storage buildings, but I never see a need for frig in the
> garage.  (Big caveat, I don't drink either.)
>
> I do have a microwave, coffee pot, dishwasher, oven, sink, and psydo
> toilet in there, but I would have no need for a frig.  8>)
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 14:56:05 -0400
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the timing chain replaced yesterday on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline (190,000
miles) and was told that the front brakes only had a little life left in them,
but that the rotors couldnbt be turned so I needed to replace everything to
the tune of more than $400.  Ibd like to avoid putting that much more into
the car, especially after yesterdaybs bill, and will probably just do the
brakes myself.  I have never done brakes on anything newer than a mid-70bs
Toyota, but have researched the Ridgeline and the job looks fairly
straightforward.  First, though, I have to decided if I need to replace just
the pads or if I should do the rotors while I am at it.

I am not 100% sure I trust this dealer yet, especially after I asked some
questions about the rotors.  I was originally told they would be too thin
after turning.  Then I asked if they were scored or warped and he said they
were fine but added something about not being able to turn them due to
corrosion on the edges. So, I am not sure exactly why they canbt be turned.
I asked about just changing the pads and he said that more than likely this
would result in pulsing of the brakes due to smooth pads on worn rotors.
First question to the group: do we agree with him on that?  Which leads to my
second question: has anyone here used EBC Greenstuff pads?
(http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/)  I have been told that
the bBrake-In Coatingb is basically a sandpaper finish that sands the
rotors during the initial stops and smooths out the wear patterns from the
previous pads.  If this is correct, I might be able to get away with just a
quick and dirty pad replacement.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 14:59:09 -0400
References: <20.84.09573.F1185955@cdptpa-oedge03>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In my limited experience (2 units) the dorm fridges are so inefficient that
they cost more to run than the beverages you'd put in them. I was spending
$20/month on the cube one.

jim

On Jul 2, 2015, at 2:21 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> FWIW, you can get smaller "under counter" units that take up a lot less
floor space.  Even a little "dorm room" refrigerator will
> hold a dozen or more of your favorite 12 oz beverage cans and still leave
some room for storage under the bench.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 13:28:22 2015
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <6EABE6BE-4183-4010-88F5-B151DEEE116F@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
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On 7/2/2015 11:56 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I had the timing chain replaced yesterday on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline (190,000
> miles) and was told that the front brakes only had a little life left in them,
> but that the rotors couldnbt be turned so I needed to replace everything to
> the tune of more than $400.

Turning rotors is generally a fool's game these days, and I see a few 
choices in reasonable quality replacement rotors for an '07 Ridgeline in 
RockAuto's catalog for $30-40 each.

You can get adequate quality brake pads for that thing for $12 per end, 
or something better for $30.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 15:33:17 -0400
References: <6EABE6BE-4183-4010-88F5-B151DEEE116F@gmail.com>
 <559590DF.8000305@milleredp.com>
To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks John.  My follow-up question was going to be on the value of
inexpensive rotors.  :)

The only reason for wanting to avoid replacing the rotors (besides just being
cheap) is because they are held on with two screws that seems to almost always
rust in place. From all that I have read, those two screws turn this from a
quick simple job to one that can take a day.  Many report minutes to change
the pads and hours to remove the screws.  I was hoping I could avoid that, but
probably not.  So, any good recommendations on aftermarket pads and rotors
will be appreciated.

Jim

> On Jul 2, 2015, at 3:28 PM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:
>
> On 7/2/2015 11:56 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
>> I had the timing chain replaced yesterday on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline
(190,000
>> miles) and was told that the front brakes only had a little life left in
them,
>> but that the rotors couldnbt be turned so I needed to replace everything
to
>> the tune of more than $400.
>
> Turning rotors is generally a fool's game these days, and I see a few
choices in reasonable quality replacement rotors for an '07 Ridgeline in
RockAuto's catalog for $30-40 each.
>
> You can get adequate quality brake pads for that thing for $12 per end, or
something better for $30.
>
> John.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 13:55:08 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 12:55:15 -0700
Thread-Index: AdC0+Tc3Ce54HUGJT/CcDqDkIQKe6QABjhMw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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> I was spending
> $20/month on the cube one.

Wow!  I never actually measured it, but my impression was that the ones I've had used a lot less than that!

How much do you pay for a kwh?

A little poking around turned up this model at Best Buy, estimated power 207 kwh/year, cost $25/year.  Where I live, my marginal
cost of power is higher than that (about $.16 last time I looked), but still less than $3/month.

http://tinyurl.com/pf9w4vd

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 16:23:05 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the reason most shops turn rotors is to get rid of uneven brake pad
deposits that will cause chatter/vibration/pulsing.  You could cleanup the
rotors with a 3M scotch brite pad (also have them for drills).  I use a
flex hone to clean-up my rotors before new pads.  http://amzn.com/B007INTEFY


Ian
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 16:53:13 -0400
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
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On Jul 2, 2015, at 3:55 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
>> I was spending
>> $20/month on the cube one.
>
> Wow!  I never actually measured it, but my impression was that the ones I've
had used a lot less than that!
>
> How much do you pay for a kwh?
>

No idea, the bill is divided into so many separate services, and it changed
every 6 months with the fuel auctions. Looks like about $0.16 now, it was
$0.22 last winter.

I didn't throw a Kill-a-Watt on it, so I could be mistaken, but the bill
dropped back down as soon as I stopped using it.

jim
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 17:21:53 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Refrigerator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 2:59 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> In my limited experience (2 units) the dorm fridges are so inefficient that
> they cost more to run than the beverages you'd put in them. I was spending
> $20/month on the cube one.

In my garage, which has mostly seen the small dorm fridge and the
compressor as the only steady loads, I seem to use about 12 - 14 kWh
when it's just the fridge, and 30 - 50 kWh when I add the compressor.
But I pay about 8 cents a kWh, so it's not that big a deal.  Costs me
$19 a month just to have the meter.  The bill is typically $20 to $25
a month.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 18:04:44 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
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Jim,

I haven't worked on any Hondas in a while, but I would think it 
should be well within your capabilities, if you have done brakes on 
older vehicles in the past.  The internet takes all the mystery out 
of this stuff.  You can read how to do it, watch a video on how to do 
it and hear of the problems encountered by others.

As for rotors, nobody turns them anymore.  They are made thin to 
start with and making them thinner makes them more prone to warping 
from heat.  I don't know how much of the issue is actually technical 
and how much is just economics, but that's the way it is.

I don't think it is really wrong to replace pads and reuse the rotors 
if they are not scored or warped.  Sure, it might be a better job to 
replace them, but it all depends on a lot of personal decisions 
regarding your finances and plans for the vehicle.  The car won't be 
unsafe.  I don't really see why a car that wasn't pulsing before 
would pulse with new pads and old rotors.  I've never heard a 
dealership service writer say your rotors are fine.  Sometimes they 
will tell you that you have to replace all the calipers as 
well.  They have a strong incentive to up-sell.

As for those EBC pads, I really wouldn't count on that coating doing 
much.  I think it's more of a break-in thing.  Use whatever pads you 
like.  Well, having said that, I would use the same type of pads.  If 
OEM was ceramic, use ceramic.  If OEM was semi-metallic, use 
that.  If you change the pad material, understand the pros and cons.

I have had good luck removing rotor screws with a hand held impact 
tool like this:  http://amzn.com/B004I9UOAA .

One more thing.  If you have done brakes before, I am sure you have 
managed to press the caliper pistons back into the caliper 
bodies.  Usually a C-clamp is all it takes, unless there is a special 
Honda trick involved.  If you haven't done brakes on a car with ABS, 
there are some who say that pushing the caliper pistons in is bad for 
the ABS components, pushing dirt back in or something.  They 
recommend cracking the bleeder when pushing in the pistons, so the 
fluid comes out rather than flowing back.  I have heard other people 
who say this is all crap and not to worry about it.  It's your 
call.  You can always take the opportunity to flush the brake fluid 
and put fresh in there.  Just don't let the system run dry, because 
some ABS systems are very hard to bleed without the factory scan tool 
to command the valves to open and close in a special sequence.

I'm about to start the same job on my wife's Toyota Venza.  Good luck.

-Steve
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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 18:08:05 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

These days, it's not worth turning rotors.
Don't those two little screws just keep the rotors from falling off when
the wheel is removed?
If they are stuck, you could just drill them out and forget about them.

Doug

On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
wrote:

> I think the reason most shops turn rotors is to get rid of uneven brake pad
> deposits that will cause chatter/vibration/pulsing.  You could cleanup the
> rotors with a 3M scotch brite pad (also have them for drills).  I use a
> flex hone to clean-up my rotors before new pads.
> http://amzn.com/B007INTEFY
>
>
> Ian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 15:17:19 -0400
From: Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[D0B28C40:01D0B514]
Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:  Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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-----Original Message-----

From: "Jack Brooks" <jibrooks@live.com>
Sent: July 2, 2015 6:13 PM
To: "Ian McFetridge" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>, "Jim Stone"
<1789alpine@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads

You may have a band of rust intruding from the outer edge into the path of the
pad.  In this case, the rotor is toast and must be replaced.  I have this on a
chevy I own.

Jack

--- Original Message ---

From: "Ian McFetridge" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
Sent: July 2, 2015 4:23 PM
To: "Jim Stone" <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads

I think the reason most shops turn rotors is to get rid of uneven brake pad
deposits that will cause chatter/vibration/pulsing.  You could cleanup the
rotors with a 3M scotch brite pad (also have them for drills).  I use a
flex hone to clean-up my rotors before new pads.  http://amzn.com/B007INTEFY


Ian
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 18:41:31 -0400
References: <BAY402-EAS95583F29B3D19B234DCDE7A8970@phx.gbl>
To: Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com>
Cc: "<shop-talk@autox.team.net>" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:  Brake Pads
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That sounds like the explanation I got. I'll certainly find out. Hope to do
this next weekend.
Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 2, 2015, at 3:17 PM, Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com> wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: "Jack Brooks" <jibrooks@live.com>
> Sent: July 2, 2015 6:13 PM
> To: "Ian McFetridge" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>, "Jim Stone"
> <1789alpine@gmail.com>
> Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
>
> You may have a band of rust intruding from the outer edge into the path of
the
> pad.  In this case, the rotor is toast and must be replaced.  I have this on
a
> chevy I own.
>
> Jack
>
> --- Original Message ---
>
> From: "Ian McFetridge" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
> Sent: July 2, 2015 4:23 PM
> To: "Jim Stone" <1789alpine@gmail.com>
> Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
>
> I think the reason most shops turn rotors is to get rid of uneven brake pad
> deposits that will cause chatter/vibration/pulsing.  You could cleanup the
> rotors with a 3M scotch brite pad (also have them for drills).  I use a
> flex hone to clean-up my rotors before new pads.
http://amzn.com/B007INTEFY
>
>
> Ian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
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Don't those two little screws just keep the rotors from falling off when
the wheel is removed?

My understanding is they  are to keep the rotors from falling off before the 
wheels are installed, on the assembly line.

Bob K 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 17:25:56 2015
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To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>,  Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <6EABE6BE-4183-4010-88F5-B151DEEE116F@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
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I don't recall any special challenges on my 2004 Odyssey when I last did 
those brakes.  Be sure to properly support the calipers so the dust 
boots on the pistons don't snag on anything.

You can test the little rotor holding screws easily.  Just take the tire 
off and see if they come undone.  Use a good screwdriver of the right 
size.  If they come loose, you know you can change the rotor. You should 
be able to find the specs on the minimum thickness of a rotor to know 
how much life is left.

I'm one of the ones that open the bleed screw before pushing the piston 
back in.  If there is contamination in the caliper, I don't want that 
fluid going back up the system.  I just put a small hose on the bleed 
screw and run it up over something high so no air goes in then down into 
a jar.  A quick grip bar clamp is handy for squeezing the piston back 
in, unless you have a VW like my wife's. You will likely need to add 
some fluid in the master cylinder afterwards.

Brian

On 7/2/2015 11:56 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I had the timing chain replaced yesterday on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline (190,000
> miles) and was told that the front brakes only had a little life left in them,
> but that the rotors couldnbt be turned so I needed to replace everything to
> the tune of more than $400.  Ibd like to avoid putting that much more into
> the car, especially after yesterdaybs bill, and will probably just do the
> brakes myself.  I have never done brakes on anything newer than a mid-70bs
> Toyota, but have researched the Ridgeline and the job looks fairly
> straightforward.  First, though, I have to decided if I need to replace just
> the pads or if I should do the rotors while I am at it.
>
> I am not 100% sure I trust this dealer yet, especially after I asked some
> questions about the rotors.  I was originally told they would be too thin
> after turning.  Then I asked if they were scored or warped and he said they
> were fine but added something about not being able to turn them due to
> corrosion on the edges. So, I am not sure exactly why they canbt be turned.
> I asked about just changing the pads and he said that more than likely this
> would result in pulsing of the brakes due to smooth pads on worn rotors.
> First question to the group: do we agree with him on that?  Which leads to my
> second question: has anyone here used EBC Greenstuff pads?
> (http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/)  I have been told that
> the bBrake-In Coatingb is basically a sandpaper finish that sands the
> rotors during the initial stops and smooths out the wear patterns from the
> previous pads.  If this is correct, I might be able to get away with just a
> quick and dirty pad replacement.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 20:55:12 -0400
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I inadvertantly sent the reply to Jim only.  So I'm reposting for the group.


At 03:33 PM 7/2/2015, you wrote:

 >Thanks John.  My follow-up question was going to be on the value of 
inexpensive
 >rotors.  :)

 >The only reason for wanting to avoid replacing the rotors (besides just being
 >cheap) is because they are held on with two screws that seems to 
almost always
 >rust in place. From all that I have read, those two screws turn this from a
 >quick simple job to one that can take a day.

While this is true, here are some comments:

1. These screws aren't required.  They are there to hold the rotor on 
the hub while
the car is on the assembly line.

2. To remove them, hit the screws with some PBlast before you start 
the job.  In
fact if you have a spare car, jack it up the night before and squirt 
the PBlast on
the screws the night before you plan on working on the car, then in the morning
before you start.

3. Using an impact screw driver 
like: 
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=impact+screwdriver 
to break the screws loose.

I've never had any problems with the screws using this.  If you have 
to drill them
out, see if you can't find a left handed drill bit to start drilling on them.

 >So, any good recommendations on aftermarket pads and rotors will be
 >appreciated.

I've used afftermarket rotors on my honda accord & civic, both my 
Chrysler mini-
vans, and my Taurus.  They all have lasted as long as the brake pads 
did.  But usually when it was time to replace the pads, I had to 
replace the rotors again.
But at $30 to $100 each versus what the dealership wants, I didn't 
mind replacing
them.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 20:57:43 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>, shop-talk
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 5:04 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> Jim,
>
> I haven't worked on any Hondas in a while, but I would think it should be
> well within your capabilities, if you have done brakes on older vehicles in
> the past.  The internet takes all the mystery out of this stuff.  You can
> read how to do it, watch a video on how to do it and hear of the problems
> encountered by others.
>
> As for rotors, nobody turns them anymore.  They are made thin to start with
> and making them thinner makes them more prone to warping from heat.  I don't
> know how much of the issue is actually technical and how much is just
> economics, but that's the way it is.

Brake rotors do not warp.  They wear unevenly because they're not
installed properly (those screws serve a purpose, and lug nuts have
torque specs and patterns for a reason.) or have too much runout.
They get deposits of brake pad material, that can build up very
unevenly, which causes pedal pulsation.  If rotors are cut, they
should be done on the hub they're going to be used, so that they have
zero runout (spec is less than two thou on most things, a few things
are +0/-2).





-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 21:16:19 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 7:55 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:
> I inadvertantly sent the reply to Jim only.  So I'm reposting for the group.
>
>
> At 03:33 PM 7/2/2015, you wrote:
>
>  >Thanks John.  My follow-up question was going to be on the value of
> inexpensive
>  >rotors.  :)
>
>  >The only reason for wanting to avoid replacing the rotors (besides just being
>  >cheap) is because they are held on with two screws that seems to
> almost always
>  >rust in place. From all that I have read, those two screws turn this from a
>  >quick simple job to one that can take a day.
>
> While this is true, here are some comments:
>
> 1. These screws aren't required.  They are there to hold the rotor on
> the hub while
> the car is on the assembly line.
>

If that is the only purpose, manufacturers would have come up with
someting substantially cheaper than drilling and tapping holes in the
hubs.  The screws serve to properly locate the rotor against the hub.
Without the screws, the first lug nut you install does that, and isn't
properly torqued for holding the wheel on. The later lugs are
relatively over torqued, which bends the rotor, which leads to wear or
pad deposits (depends on the pads: semi-metallics tend to wear the
rotor away, ceramics tend to leave deposits), which leads to pedal
pulsation and "warped rotors" (which aren't warped at all.).  This
problem is exacerbated by using an impact wrench to install wheels,
and by improper order of tightening.

One additonal step: clean the surface of the hub that the rotor bears
on.  If there's rust or crud, the rotor won't be square to the
calipers, and it will "warp".


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 23:33:58 -0700
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fridge
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To bring this back a bit to shop-talk related things: I want to put a 
good word in for LG refrigerators.  Specifically: parts availability and 
price.  I broke a latch on mine and put off fixing it for a long time, 
assuming the replacement 1 ounce piece of plastic would cost $30. It was 
$2.  And I looked up various other parts that other manufacturers always 
charge a ton for, like replacement drawers and shelves, and was equally 
pleasantly surprised.
It says a lot that normal pricing on replacement parts is now rare 
enough that it gets mentioned, but that is another thread entirely.

Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 07:49:40 -0400
From: Larry Spector <lspector@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>From personal experience, when it comes to removing those rotor screws an
impact screwdriver is worth every penny. This is the one I have, and it
works every time:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

-Larry

On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 10:16 PM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 7:55 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:
> > I inadvertantly sent the reply to Jim only.  So I'm reposting for the
> group.
> >
> >
> > At 03:33 PM 7/2/2015, you wrote:
> >
> >  >Thanks John.  My follow-up question was going to be on the value of
> > inexpensive
> >  >rotors.  :)
> >
> >  >The only reason for wanting to avoid replacing the rotors (besides
> just being
> >  >cheap) is because they are held on with two screws that seems to
> > almost always
> >  >rust in place. From all that I have read, those two screws turn this
> from a
> >  >quick simple job to one that can take a day.
> >
> > While this is true, here are some comments:
> >
> > 1. These screws aren't required.  They are there to hold the rotor on
> > the hub while
> > the car is on the assembly line.
> >
>
> If that is the only purpose, manufacturers would have come up with
> someting substantially cheaper than drilling and tapping holes in the
> hubs.  The screws serve to properly locate the rotor against the hub.
> Without the screws, the first lug nut you install does that, and isn't
> properly torqued for holding the wheel on. The later lugs are
> relatively over torqued, which bends the rotor, which leads to wear or
> pad deposits (depends on the pads: semi-metallics tend to wear the
> rotor away, ceramics tend to leave deposits), which leads to pedal
> pulsation and "warped rotors" (which aren't warped at all.).  This
> problem is exacerbated by using an impact wrench to install wheels,
> and by improper order of tightening.
>
> One additonal step: clean the surface of the hub that the rotor bears
> on.  If there's rust or crud, the rotor won't be square to the
> calipers, and it will "warp".
>
>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'Jim Stone'" <1789alpine@gmail.com>
References: <BAY402-EAS95583F29B3D19B234DCDE7A8970@phx.gbl>
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 06:13:11 -0700
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:  Brake Pads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK Jim, so if this is the case, you have pitting in low spots, below the
surface of the rotor.  This rust will grow above the surface of the rotor
taking out pad material and reducing the swept area and effectiveness of the
brakes.  It will appear as a narrower clean shiny area of the rotor. You
should see rust under where the pad should be on the outer part of the
rotor; this may be completely rusty or it could be polished rust; i.e. rusty
pits.  The rust will continue to grow both inward towards the axle as it
does it grows outward from the pad, taking out pad material prematurely
resulting in less and less swept area and reduced braking.  

If you can confirm that the rust has invaded the swept area of the rotor,
plan on replacing the rotors.  It's not a "must do this weekend" but it is
affecting the front to rear brake bias and over time could become enough to
make a difference.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Stone [mailto:1789alpine@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2015 3:42 PM
To: Jack Brooks
Cc: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] FW: Re: Brake Pads

That sounds like the explanation I got. I'll certainly find out. Hope to do
this next weekend. 
Thanks. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 2, 2015, at 3:17 PM, Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com> wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: "Jack Brooks" <jibrooks@live.com>
> Sent: July 2, 2015 6:13 PM
> To: "Ian McFetridge" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>, "Jim Stone"
> <1789alpine@gmail.com>
> Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
> 
> You may have a band of rust intruding from the outer edge into the path of
the
> pad.  In this case, the rotor is toast and must be replaced.  I have this
on a
> chevy I own.
> 
> Jack
> 
> --- Original Message ---
> 
> From: "Ian McFetridge" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
> Sent: July 2, 2015 4:23 PM
> To: "Jim Stone" <1789alpine@gmail.com>
> Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads
> 
> I think the reason most shops turn rotors is to get rid of uneven brake
pad
> deposits that will cause chatter/vibration/pulsing.  You could cleanup the
> rotors with a 3M scotch brite pad (also have them for drills).  I use a
> flex hone to clean-up my rotors before new pads.
http://amzn.com/B007INTEFY
> 
> 
> Ian
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  4 08:22:46 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 10:22:46 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Deck drain grate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My Trex-style deck boards were installed flush against the sheathing under my
sliding glass doors, and the flashing was installed such that it trapped all
the water. Therefore, the whole sill plate and rim joists are rotten.

Since I need to pull up the deck boards anyway to redo the flashing, I'd like
to replace the first board with a metal grate that will drain to the ground
below, similar to the things you stomp on to remove snow from your boots, but
only 5.5" wide.

I'm searching but clearly not using the right terms. Are these called
something specific? Closest I'm getting are french drain gutters with a
plastic top that doesn't look sturdy enough to stomp on.

thnaks,
jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  4 08:52:18 2015
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <1AA50648-F237-4431-AF10-0208E3951F4B@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 07:52:16 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Deck drain grate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I did a Google Images search on Garage Floor Drain Covers
and found a number of interesting places to look.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Jim Franklin
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2015 7:22 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Deck drain grate?

My Trex-style deck boards were installed flush against the sheathing under my
sliding glass doors, and the flashing was installed such that it trapped all
the water. Therefore, the whole sill plate and rim joists are rotten.

Since I need to pull up the deck boards anyway to redo the flashing, I'd like
to replace the first board with a metal grate that will drain to the ground
below, similar to the things you stomp on to remove snow from your boots, but
only 5.5" wide.

I'm searching but clearly not using the right terms. Are these called
something specific? Closest I'm getting are french drain gutters with a
plastic top that doesn't look sturdy enough to stomp on.

thnaks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6030 / Virus Database: 4365/10156 - Release Date: 07/04/15
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  4 10:48:52 2015
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Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2015 09:44:21 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.7.0
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <1AA50648-F237-4431-AF10-0208E3951F4B@groupwbench.org>
 <D710ED6A198348B7A586CF734E677BC1@StevePC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Deck drain grate?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Also try "trench drain cover".

On 7/4/2015 7:52 AM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> I did a Google Images search on Garage Floor Drain Covers
> and found a number of interesting places to look.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  4 11:27:35 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 13:27:40 -0400
References: <1AA50648-F237-4431-AF10-0208E3951F4B@groupwbench.org>
 <D710ED6A198348B7A586CF734E677BC1@StevePC>
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Deck drain grate?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Jul 4, 2015, at 12:44 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> Also try "trench drain cover".

Bingo! Thanks!

jim
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  9 21:46:58 2015
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Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2015 23:46:43 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Spiders Everywhere!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I was cleaning out my garage/workshop this week, and I realized it was full
of cobwebs, spiders, daddy longlegs, and spider drippings beneath the
cobwebs.  They get everywhere!
I live in a wooded area, which only makes the problem worse.

Does anybody know of a safe and effective way to keep my garage from
turning into
Shelob's Lair ( http://lotr.wikia.com/wiki/Shelob%27s_lair )?
Is there a better approach than just blasting it with Raid every couple of
weeks?

Thanks,
Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 10 09:12:45 2015
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Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 10:11:44 -0500
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
To: "Doug Braun" <doug@dougbraun.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.5.2 [SVN]
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 /usr/local/cpanel/base/3rdparty/squirrelmail/src/compose.php 
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spiders Everywhere!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug - My brother-in-law swears by "Demon" (a commercial name for
Cypermethrin). His lake house and boat house were always covered in spiders,
and he says that Demon keeps them completely controlled.

Note that cypermethrin is a pretty serious pesticide and should be applied
with care and away from pets/food etc. If you can't find it locally it's
available in several forms from Amazon - http://amzn.com/B0035AM6NG .

Lee

On Thu, July 9, 2015 22:46, Doug Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
>
> I was cleaning out my garage/workshop this week, and I realized it was full
> of cobwebs, spiders, daddy longlegs, and spider drippings beneath the cobwebs.
> They get everywhere!
> I live in a wooded area, which only makes the problem worse.
>
>
> Does anybody know of a safe and effective way to keep my garage from
> turning into Shelob's Lair ( http://lotr.wikia.com/wiki/Shelob%27s_lair )?
> Is there a better approach than just blasting it with Raid every couple of
> weeks?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 12 08:43:29 2015
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2015 10:43:37 -0400
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Setting up the new garage, was planning to buy a Quincy compressor (want to
buy it once and be done).

They're expensive, but if I only have to buy it once...

But I was in Harbor Freight yesterday--they've got what I'm sure is their
usual two-stage Chinese whatever for $599. I'm sure it won't keep up with a
blaster, but for that price I could dang near buy two of them and still be
less than half of a Quincy unit.

Anyone have a Harbor Freight compressor and can talk about the quality? If
it's just a name thing, and I'll get ten years out of a H-F unit, I might
just consider it. If I'm going to have to screw with it more than once a
year then I'll spend the extra money on the high-dollar one.

I suppose if it lasts ten years, I could buy one each ten years and still
be under the cost of a Quincy.

Or should I revisit this and consider IR units again, etc.?

Thanks guys.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <CAK73_u5pA4uZRHRLmynvCjsMRFLAhOubovLozFh-jOrYOYi-Xw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2015 11:59:19 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>  I was in Harbor Freight yesterday--they've got what I'm sure is their
> usual two-stage Chinese whatever for $599.

I have no experience with the HF air compressor. You might try browsing the 
forums at www.garagejournal.com - they often discuss HF items. (don't blame 
me for all the time you spend there, however...)

I bought a 'used' 5 HP IR air compressor via CraigsList. It looked like new 
for ~ 1/2 the price. I changed the oil and it has needed no further 
maintenance.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
_______________________________________________

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From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAK73_u5pA4uZRHRLmynvCjsMRFLAhOubovLozFh-jOrYOYi-Xw@mail.gmail.com>
 with any abuse report
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  I bought a Champion (Quincy competitor at about  same price/quality) 
about 20 years ago...I open the cabinet its in about once a year and 
change the oil, I plan on doing that the rest of my life.

  It does have a auto drain on the tank for moisture/water, so oil 
change is all it needs.

   I don't want to EVER have to move that sucker again and I doubt I 
ever will.  But you are right about the price, the Harbor Fright one is 
cheap and you can buy a few good ones for that price, how noisy is the 
Harbor Fright one ?  The Champion/Quincy's are quiet due to their low RPM.

     mike

On 7/12/2015 7:43 AM, Scott Hall wrote:
> Setting up the new garage, was planning to buy a Quincy compressor (want to
> buy it once and be done).
>
> They're expensive, but if I only have to buy it once...
>
> But I was in Harbor Freight yesterday--they've got what I'm sure is their
> usual two-stage Chinese whatever for $599. I'm sure it won't keep up with a
> blaster, but for that price I could dang near buy two of them and still be
> less than half of a Quincy unit.
>
> Anyone have a Harbor Freight compressor and can talk about the quality? If
> it's just a name thing, and I'll get ten years out of a H-F unit, I might
> just consider it. If I'm going to have to screw with it more than once a
> year then I'll spend the extra money on the high-dollar one.
>
> I suppose if it lasts ten years, I could buy one each ten years and still
> be under the cost of a Quincy.
>
> Or should I revisit this and consider IR units again, etc.?
>
> Thanks guys.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists@dinospider.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 13:14:55 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys,

New house has an air conditioned (!) garage. Yes, that was a reason I liked
that house.

Air conditioner seems dead. Digital thermostat not functional (as in not
getting power).

Near the air handler (all these terms may or may not be accurate) in the
attic, there's a junction box/fuse box/single-purpose breaker box. The
function of this box, as near as I can tell, is to be a cutout for the a/c
system. So you pull the power to the box if you want to service the system.
That way you don't have to get at the breaker box in the basement of the
house.

Anyway, in this box, there's a...contraption. The contraption consists of a
male/female setup. It looks like it's there to stop the power to the
system, you pull the male "plug" out of the female sockets in which it
fits. Like an old-timey lever-and-contact electric thing you see in
cartoons when they're electrocuting Bugs Bunny or something, but it's not
attached. You just pull it out.

The male part is sitting next to the box. Probably why there's no power to
the system. Flipping over the male part, I see two fairly-large cylindrical
fuses (I'm pretty sure they're fuses). They seem to be okay. There are
various copper blades sticking out of the male part that fit into ports on
the female part.

So...I'm going to just stick the male part into the female part and see
what happens, but the "voice" kicks in. The Voice is a recent addition in
life and it seems to be interested in me not killing myself or screwing up
too much. It says, "You might want to think about this first." This is the
same voice telling me not to install my own torque spring on the garage
door, or to grab another jack stand when working under the F250. It seems
less-stupid than I am. I decide to listen to it.

There's another little electrical-looking jobby sitting next to the male
part on the air handler, I can't tell what it does. I thought it might fit
into the male part then the whole thing goes into the female part, but I
can't tell how that'd happen. It's an irregularly-shaped plastic part a few
inches big.

You guys are far smarter than I am about Not Killing Myself With
Electricity. Should I go throw the whole-house breaker (to off) and plug
the male part into the female part for the garage a/c, flip the whole house
back to on and see what happens, or should I investigate what that other
part does first? Or are there procedures of which I know nothing and I'm
asking to set the whole house on fire and destroy the air conditioner and I
ought to be on the phone with the HVAC people?

Useful to note the system is disabled (male part is out of box) because the
house was a foreclosure, I'm sure, not because something's broken. And I
can take pictures of everything if it's useful.

Normally I'm less of a sissy about this stuff, but I know zip about HVAC
systems, and electricity'll kill you real good. But I am looking forward to
an AIR CONDITIONED GARAGE. WHOOP.

Thanks fellas.

Scott
_______________________________________________

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 18:03:29 -0500
References: <CAK73_u6bZDqKewsrD2kXCnPwPhB1t6FeQSjKsFSeOaotSwH7RQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On Jul 16, 2015, at 13:14, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> New house has an air conditioned (!) garage. Yes, that was a reason I liked
> that house.
>
> Air conditioner seems dead. Digital thermostat not functional (as in not
> getting power).
>
> Near the air handler (all these terms may or may not be accurate) in the
> attic, there's a junction box/fuse box/single-purpose breaker box. The
> function of this box, as near as I can tell, is to be a cutout for the a/c
> system. So you pull the power to the box if you want to service the system.
> That way you don't have to get at the breaker box in the basement of the
> house.
>
> Anyway, in this box, there's a...contraption. The contraption consists of a
> male/female setup. It looks like it's there to stop the power to the
> system, you pull the male "plug" out of the female sockets in which it
> fits. Like an old-timey lever-and-contact electric thing you see in
> cartoons when they're electrocuting Bugs Bunny or something, but it's not
> attached. You just pull it out.

That sounds like a typical av disconnect.
>
> The male part is sitting next to the box. Probably why there's no power to
> the system. Flipping over the male part, I see two fairly-large cylindrical
> fuses (I'm pretty sure they're fuses). They seem to be okay. There are
> various copper blades sticking out of the male part that fit into ports on
> the female part.
>

But the fuses are usually (always, in my experience) fixed on female side of
the disconnect.  They're time delay fuses, sized based on the ac. A picture
would be nice. I can't tell if you have an unusual disconnect or a broken one.

  One thing to remember is that the supply side terminals in the box are
always hot when the breaker is on.  You can check there is 240 between them.

> So...I'm going to just stick the male part
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 16 17:56:28 2015
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 16:56:30 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 mail.com>
 localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air conditioner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

         Is this roughly what you're seeing?
http://www.diversitech.com/Product-Line?id=a0jC0000005QcxgIAC

         In doing some searches, it appears that on many of these 
"electrical disconnect" or "ac disconnect" boxes, just opening the door 
cuts power, then you can pull out the fuse pack.

         Some have a pull out "handle" that cuts power when the handle is 
pulled out. Like this:
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/127/ac3w.jpg
or this:
http://i.stack.imgur.com/8aMRPm.jpg

         Does the disconnect box have the manufacturers name and model 
number on it?  If so, Google that to see if you can find any instructions 
online that details how the box works.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       523,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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 <55A3D388.1090409@dinospider.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 13:46:52 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

I've back to backed the 5hp HF against my Champion 5hp unit.  The champion
is better in every way.  Quieter & more air.  But... its about double the
cost so it damn well better be!  I got the HF first and had a failure with
the pressure switch during the break in process.  I got freaked by that a
bit and took it back, then got the Champion (I'm local to TP Tools, so this
was pretty easy).  You guessed it, the Champion had the same pressure
switch, near as I could tell.  :-)

Last I knew, the HF unit actually was the only product with USA-made
components at HF.

Anyway, hindsight and all... I have a little more peace of mind with the
Champion (and yes, I bought it with the intention of willing it to my son),
but I continue to recommend the HF to folks shopping on a budget.  I think
its a good compressor and the extra $600 or whatever in your pocket can buy
you a lot of cool tools.

Mark

On Mon, Jul 13, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com> wrote:

>  I bought a Champion (Quincy competitor at about  same price/quality)
> about 20 years ago...I open the cabinet its in about once a year and change
> the oil, I plan on doing that the rest of my life.
>
>  It does have a auto drain on the tank for moisture/water, so oil change
> is all it needs.
>
>   I don't want to EVER have to move that sucker again and I doubt I ever
> will.  But you are right about the price, the Harbor Fright one is cheap
> and you can buy a few good ones for that price, how noisy is the Harbor
> Fright one ?  The Champion/Quincy's are quiet due to their low RPM.
>
>     mike
>
> On 7/12/2015 7:43 AM, Scott Hall wrote:
>
>> Setting up the new garage, was planning to buy a Quincy compressor (want
>> to
>> buy it once and be done).
>>
>> They're expensive, but if I only have to buy it once...
>>
>> But I was in Harbor Freight yesterday--they've got what I'm sure is their
>> usual two-stage Chinese whatever for $599. I'm sure it won't keep up with
>> a
>> blaster, but for that price I could dang near buy two of them and still be
>> less than half of a Quincy unit.
>>
>> Anyone have a Harbor Freight compressor and can talk about the quality? If
>> it's just a name thing, and I'll get ten years out of a H-F unit, I might
>> just consider it. If I'm going to have to screw with it more than once a
>> year then I'll spend the extra money on the high-dollar one.
>>
>> I suppose if it lasts ten years, I could buy one each ten years and still
>> be under the cost of a Quincy.
>>
>> Or should I revisit this and consider IR units again, etc.?
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists@dinospider.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 11:01:50 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
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On 7/26/2015 10:46 AM, Mark Andy wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I've back to backed the 5hp HF against my Champion 5hp unit.

I've got a 20gal DeVilbiss, bought it 15+ years ago, hung it 8ft up on 
the wall a decade ago after we remodeled, it built the house and has 
done a lot of car work and been worth every friggin' penny I spent on it 
and then some, but I think it's wearing out and I'd like something 
bigger and it's pretty loud up on the wall of the garage for everyday use.

That Champion looks acceptable, cost-wise, the HF unit perhaps even more 
so, the plan at this point is to noise-insulate a chunk of a cabinet out 
in the side yard adjacent to the fence and run conduit and air line out 
there for it.

The TP Tools website doesn't show me a height, and that's a potential 
constraint.  Can I get you to grab a measuring tape and tell me how tall 
it is?

Thanks.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 26 12:04:56 2015
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 11:04:32 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
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> The TP Tools website doesn't show me a height, and that's a potential
> constraint.  Can I get you to grab a measuring tape and tell me how tall
> it is?

Oh, wait.

76in H.

Never mind.

Off to the yard with the measuring tape.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 26 12:09:55 2015
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 11:09:30 -0700
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air compressor--really worth the extra money?
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On 7/26/2015 11:04 AM, John Miller wrote:
>> The TP Tools website doesn't show me a height, and that's a potential
>> constraint.  Can I get you to grab a measuring tape and tell me how tall
>> it is?
>
> Oh, wait.
>
> 76in H.
>
> Never mind.

Fascinating that the shipping weight on the Champion is almost twice 
that of the HF unit.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 26 19:03:32 2015
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Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 19:03:27 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Team.Net archives
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The archives were unavailable for a bit, minor server issues.
Should be working now, link below for those on the real time list.

mjb.
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 16:03:28 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys,

My gas line seems to be devoid of shutoffs. There's a few of these things:

http://imgur.com/StikUPR

Which I hope are shutoffs, and one obvious shutoff...on a pipe with an open
end. Opening that shutoff value produces a sound like gas moving.

I can't find a whole-house shutoff (or a meter). I'm assuming it's
underground. The utility says I have gas service.

The thing in the picture is just upstream of the water heater. I'm hoping
that's a shutoff because if it's not I don't know how to R&R the heater,
and the heater is on its way out.

Also, there MUST be a whole-house shutoff, yes? I'd like to re-do a lot of
the piping under there, but you'd better bet I'm not touching it until  I
know it's off to the whole house...or at least shut off upstream of where
I'm working.

If that thing IS a shutoff...how do it work? Or rather, how to I know when
it's open and when it's shut? Clockwise is off, counterclockwise is on?

Thanks.

Scott, hoping not to blow hisself up
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 27 16:22:59 2015
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References: <CAK73_u7Khn_7t1HyDn15+61rn5270-O7Qf0GLPsTvsoWmpUfWA@mail.gmail.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 15:21:54 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott - It looks like a shutoff.  Turn the part of the left side of the 
picture perpendicular to the pipe and it should be off. Parallel to the 
pipe like in the picture is on.

The shutoff will be similar to the one in the picture, such that you 
need a wrench to turn it on or off.  You don't want someone turning it 
on and off by accident.

In every house I've had, the main shutoff is right before the meter.  
Most meters are on one side of the house.  One was in an underground box 
at the property line.  I'd ask a neighbor to see what they do in your area.

Brian


On 7/27/2015 2:03 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
> Guys,
>
> My gas line seems to be devoid of shutoffs. There's a few of these things:
>
> http://imgur.com/StikUPR
>
> Which I hope are shutoffs, and one obvious shutoff...on a pipe with an open
> end. Opening that shutoff value produces a sound like gas moving.
>
> I can't find a whole-house shutoff (or a meter). I'm assuming it's
> underground. The utility says I have gas service.
>
> The thing in the picture is just upstream of the water heater. I'm hoping
> that's a shutoff because if it's not I don't know how to R&R the heater,
> and the heater is on its way out.
>
> Also, there MUST be a whole-house shutoff, yes? I'd like to re-do a lot of
> the piping under there, but you'd better bet I'm not touching it until  I
> know it's off to the whole house...or at least shut off upstream of where
> I'm working.
>
> If that thing IS a shutoff...how do it work? Or rather, how to I know when
> it's open and when it's shut? Clockwise is off, counterclockwise is on?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott, hoping not to blow hisself up
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 27 17:18:47 2015
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Scott Hall" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u7Khn_7t1HyDn15+61rn5270-O7Qf0GLPsTvsoWmpUfWA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 16:18:44 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?
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Thatbs a shut off.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Scott Hall
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2015 2:03 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is this a shutoff?

Guys,

My gas line seems to be devoid of shutoffs. There's a few of these things:

http://imgur.com/StikUPR

Which I hope are shutoffs, and one obvious shutoff...on a pipe with an open
end. Opening that shutoff value produces a sound like gas moving.

I can't find a whole-house shutoff (or a meter). I'm assuming it's
underground. The utility says I have gas service.

The thing in the picture is just upstream of the water heater. I'm hoping
that's a shutoff because if it's not I don't know how to R&R the heater,
and the heater is on its way out.

Also, there MUST be a whole-house shutoff, yes? I'd like to re-do a lot of
the piping under there, but you'd better bet I'm not touching it until  I
know it's off to the whole house...or at least shut off upstream of where
I'm working.

If that thing IS a shutoff...how do it work? Or rather, how to I know when
it's open and when it's shut? Clockwise is off, counterclockwise is on?

Thanks.

Scott, hoping not to blow hisself up
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: steve hochschild <steve-hochschild@att.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 18:29:06 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] barn door questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Look, a real shop being built and discussed on shoptalk!

I am about to begin building my dream shop: 1024 sq ft on two floors, 
metal shed roof, exterior stairway, and lots of other fabulous features 
that I will talk about later.

The 1st floor has a ceiling height of 12', so I can roll my travel 
trailer in and work on it out of the hot Texas sun, and I need the full 
height.

I propose to fabricate a pair of 4' wide by 12' high barn doors, to 
cover an 8'wide x 12' high opening.  I'm thinking of making each as 
metal channel frame, with six  ~2' by 4' frosted acrylic/plex panels 
supported by metal channel cross pieces welded to the uprights.

Is there a best choice for the frosted plastic panels/windows?  Is there 
a standard way to clip the panels into the frames?

Is there a standard way to make the frames, for example an extruded 
aluminum frame stock that is made to build up just this kind of thing?  
I got the idea for this while looking at picture frame components, but 
of course, I need something far bigger and industrial strength.

The 8' opening is centered on a 16' wall, and I plan to hang a track 
system all the way across, so I can open each door to its side with no 
overhang.  I have briefly looked at Tractor Supply's site, where they 
offer couple of different formats: square tubing or round, flexible 
hangers or non, and different roller configs.  Is there other hardware 
that I should look at?

More later, but this is the issue we are looking at now...

Thanks!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <steve@hochschild.org>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <55B6BEC2.1080800@att.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 20:25:33 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] barn door questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Not sure about how to make & hang the doors but I think an 8' wide opening
is going to a tight fit. A 'standard' garage door is ~ 9' wide. If possible,
I suggest 10' wide.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
----- Original Message ----- 

> I propose to fabricate a pair of 4' wide by 12' high barn doors, to cover
> an 8'wide x 12' high opening. 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 21:33:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: steve@hochschild.org
References: <55B6BEC2.1080800@att.net>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] barn door questions
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On Mon, 27 Jul 2015, steve hochschild wrote:
> Is there a best choice for the frosted plastic panels/windows?  Is there a 
> standard way to clip the panels into the frames?
>
> Is there a standard way to make the frames, for example an extruded 
> aluminum frame stock that is made to build up just this kind of thing?  I 
> got the idea for this while looking at picture frame components, but of 
> course, I need something far bigger and industrial strength.

    Yes, 8020.net.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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Subject: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
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_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:09:42 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
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On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
>
Arvid: nothing reached the list.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 31 17:15:25 2015
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 16:15:22 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
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Need to hook up home central a/c located in my (temporary) shop/garage.
New shop and extra garage space is to be soon added to our property.
The installation will be handled by a local HVAC contractor (using an outside
electrical contractor) or option is to allow the homeowner (me) to supply the
power from the panel to the electrical shutoff mounted on the outside wall
of the garage, next to the condenser.  We have a dedicated 30A 240V circuit,
previously used for an electric clothes dryer (now switched to gas) that
goes up and through the garage attic trusses (above the garagebs drywall
ceiling)
toward the housebs laundry room.  My thought is to interrupt the run to the
dryer, terminating the run toward the no longer being used dryer, and install
a J-box to make a new run to the adjacent garage wall for the a/c unit.  I
plan
to bore through the double top plate and run the Romex down through the wall
and through to the outside where it would be connected to the switch box.
Here are my questions:
1.  Planning 2.5 ton 13SEER unit.  What Romex wiring size can I run?  Itbs
about a
total of 50b.
2.  I understand that the J-box in the attic storage space must be easily
accessible.
Any other placement requirements?
3.  Any recommendations for the outside switch box?  Is there a design for
going through a siding/OSB exterior wall?
4.  Any nailing recommendations?  Ibm familiar with not nailing (staples)
too
tight on the Romex.  Spacing suggestions?
5.  Any other suggestions before we get started?
Home owner electrical is OK here, but I certainly do not want to be anything
less than safe.  The quoted electrical cost for this job (through one of the
a/c contractors) was over $800 which I hope to lessen drastically.
Thanks for your assistance.
Steve

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: <steve@hochschild.org>, <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <55B6BEC2.1080800@att.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 18:26:07 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] barn door questions
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Steve,

Take a look at Lexan for the windows. I don't know how large a panel you can
get, but it is very tough. I also live in Texas (South of Austin) and I used
Lexan roofing panels over a porch about 20 years ago and it hasn't weathered
at all. 

About 15 years ago I built my 30'x40' shop and also planned on working on my
travel trailer in it, which I never did. My trailer is an old Avion, which
is less than 10' tall, so I built my bottom floor a bit over 10' high. I put
in an segmented overhead door 12' wide by 10' high.
I also built exterior stairs to get to the second floor which is a 900 sq.
ft. apartment. My shop area is split between mechanic/steel work and
woodworking, with the center part in line with the overhead door open so
that there is overflow room from either half. Don't forget to allow for an
office and a bathroom, including a shower. One thing I did which helps is to
cover the ceiling with cheap corrugated roofing metal to reflect light
around inside. Really helps. Also I ran air all around the shop with a
closet outside under the stairs for the compressor.

Where are you located?

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steve
hochschild
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2015 6:29 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] barn door questions


The 1st floor has a ceiling height of 12', so I can roll my travel trailer
in and work on it out of the hot Texas sun, and I need the full height.

I propose to fabricate a pair of 4' wide by 12' high barn doors, to cover an
8'wide x 12' high opening.  I'm thinking of making each as metal channel
frame, with six  ~2' by 4' frosted acrylic/plex panels supported by metal
channel cross pieces welded to the uprights.
<snip>

Thanks!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 22:18:40 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>, shop-talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wire splices ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Jul 29, 2015 at 7:41 AM, Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:09:42 -0500
> David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
>>>
>> Arvid: nothing reached the list.
>
> Thanks David. I'll try this again with a different email client and see if
> it works ...
>
> I'll need to tap into some of the small interior wiring on the car. I'd like
> to access the collective wisdom of the
> group regarding the best way to do it.
>
> We're all familiar with the guillotine style ...
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-10774-Splice-Connector/dp/B0106BJ8CI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1438088400&sr=8-8&keywords=splice&pebp=1438088429119&perid=0HVMJGHE6P8SY9HN2QM6
>
> ... but I'm not that fond of them. My limited experience with them usually
> results in the original wire being cut or
> the added wire not remaining attached. I am assuming it is operator error
> but it could be I'm just buying the wrong
> brand or size of connector. Suggestions welcome.
>
> I've also seen, but never used, the posi-tap type of connectors ...
>
> http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html ...
>
> Any real world experience would be appreciated.
>
> That's all I can think of and very likely have missed "the perfect
> solution".
>
> Suggestions and recommendations??

My very strong preference is to tap at the terminal block or fuse or
relay.  Second choice is at the termination for a load.
Various options depending on what kind of terminals are involved.

Third choice is at an existing splice.  Mid span splices are evil, and
all of them will eventually fail, one way or another.



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 22:36:04 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical install questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 6:15 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
<gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:
> Need to hook up home central a/c located in my (temporary) shop/garage.
> New shop and extra garage space is to be soon added to our property.
> The installation will be handled by a local HVAC contractor (using an outside
> electrical contractor) or option is to allow the homeowner (me) to supply the
> power from the panel to the electrical shutoff mounted on the outside wall
> of the garage, next to the condenser.  We have a dedicated 30A 240V circuit,
> previously used for an electric clothes dryer (now switched to gas) that
> goes up and through the garage attic trusses (above the garageb s drywall
> ceiling)
> toward the houseb s laundry room.  My thought is to interrupt the run to the
> dryer, terminating the run toward the no longer being used dryer, and install
> a J-box to make a new run to the adjacent garage wall for the a/c unit.  I
> plan
> to bore through the double top plate and run the Romex down through the wall
> and through to the outside where it would be connected to the switch box.
> Here are my questions:
> 1.  Planning 2.5 ton 13SEER unit.  What Romex wiring size can I run?  Itb s
> about a
> total of 50b .

30 amp breaker requires 10gauge wire, which will provide a 3% voltage
drop at about 100 feet.


> 2.  I understand that the J-box in the attic storage space must be easily
> accessible.
> Any other placement requirements?
> 3.  Any recommendations for the outside switch box?  Is there a design for
> going through a siding/OSB exterior wall?

I expect they want a standard a/c disconnect, with fuses.  There are
versions that feed through the back, from through the wall.

> 4.  Any nailing recommendations?  Ib m familiar with not nailing (staples)
> too
> tight on the Romex.  Spacing suggestions?

Minimum spacing is specified by the NEC.  basic rule is no more than
4.5 feet apart, within one foot of any box or fitting, and within 6
inches of a single gang box without a clamp.  Also, wire should be
parallel with the studs (where that makes sense, of course), and needs
to be 1 1/4 away from the edge.  If it can't be, it has to be
protected from nails by a plate, sleeve, or in conduit.  There are
additional complications, but if you follow that, use sense, you'll be
fine.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 22:41:41 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: steve@hochschild.org, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] barn door questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:29 PM, steve hochschild
<steve-hochschild@att.net> wrote:
> Look, a real shop being built and discussed on shoptalk!
>
> I am about to begin building my dream shop: 1024 sq ft on two floors, metal
> shed roof, exterior stairway, and lots of other fabulous features that I
> will talk about later.
>
> The 1st floor has a ceiling height of 12', so I can roll my travel trailer
> in and work on it out of the hot Texas sun, and I need the full height.
>
> I propose to fabricate a pair of 4' wide by 12' high barn doors, to cover an
> 8'wide x 12' high opening.

You want an opening larger than 8 feet!  8 feet is a pain to get a car
in through (espcially, if you have to push!).  Go 10 feet, 12 if you
can.





-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

