Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake Pads

From: John Miller <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 12:28:31 -0700

On 7/2/2015 11:56 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I had the timing chain replaced yesterday on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline (190,000
> miles) and was told that the front brakes only had a little life left in them,
> but that the rotors couldnbt be turned so I needed to replace everything to
> the tune of more than $400.

Turning rotors is generally a fool's game these days, and I see a few 
choices in reasonable quality replacement rotors for an '07 Ridgeline in 
RockAuto's catalog for $30-40 each.

You can get adequate quality brake pads for that thing for $12 per end, 
or something better for $30.

John.
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From: Jim Stone <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 15:33:17 -0400

Thanks John.  My follow-up question was going to be on the value of
inexpensive rotors.  :)

The only reason for wanting to avoid replacing the rotors (besides just being
cheap) is because they are held on with two screws that seems to almost always
rust in place. From all that I have read, those two screws turn this from a
quick simple job to one that can take a day.  Many report minutes to change
the pads and hours to remove the screws.  I was hoping I could avoid that, but
probably not.  So, any good recommendations on aftermarket pads and rotors
will be appreciated.

Jim

> On Jul 2, 2015, at 3:28 PM, John Miller <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>
> You can get adequate quality brake pads for that thing for $12 per end, or
something better for $30.
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From: Ian McFetridge <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 16:23:05 -0400

I think the reason most shops turn rotors is to get rid of uneven brake pad
deposits that will cause chatter/vibration/pulsing.  You could cleanup the
rotors with a 3M scotch brite pad (also have them for drills).  I use a
flex hone to clean-up my rotors before new pads.  http://amzn.com/B007INTEFY

Ian

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From: Doug Braun <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 18:08:05 -0400

These days, it's not worth turning rotors.
Don't those two little screws just keep the rotors from falling off when
the wheel is removed?
If they are stuck, you could just drill them out and forget about them.

Doug

On Thu, Jul 2, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Ian McFetridge <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: "Bob Kegel" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 16:24:13 -0700 s=q20140121; t=1435879461; bh=Ug+Wo+rZadfOJPNg14bDJSrCcQe49Y+SSEpCmDEbFcw=; h=Received:Received:Message-ID:Reply-To:From:To:Subject:Date: MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=kPG9WE5+VClV4ozgnfKFn/ZB1wUJDMYE8m4y8FcdKTxYmvVmu5czQx+DOWHlYE9V6 eGOXIDfr3KomyB4LP4SD8EoNILTUqOAl3NekYDrC8Q0mZ/3HUJsQayGVOUeQ1DFdrF uqSuFDhGZ7XN8uS8o4V8OzG+hNq7sE09RKjORN1rBuvD+/u8T1R2PJ8O5Xb49pEgj4 /rQJDEA+FGAREE90HwlB/paWfICLARaP8xMg4UD3w5gvtFxo+sTygw+xSEMlhSXLkk mfPnr0Ales6sgjG4wOfXK8gzaBi6I9xfLaKvBabxpjOJG4cekd1emzTQOnE+xnZIH3 ICZgrhNxWwfHg==

My understanding is they  are to keep the rotors from falling off before the 
wheels are installed, on the assembly line.

Bob K 

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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2015 16:22:55 -0700

I don't recall any special challenges on my 2004 Odyssey when I last did 
those brakes.  Be sure to properly support the calipers so the dust 
boots on the pistons don't snag on anything.

You can test the little rotor holding screws easily.  Just take the tire 
off and see if they come undone.  Use a good screwdriver of the right 
size.  If they come loose, you know you can change the rotor. You should 
be able to find the specs on the minimum thickness of a rotor to know 
how much life is left.

I'm one of the ones that open the bleed screw before pushing the piston 
back in.  If there is contamination in the caliper, I don't want that 
fluid going back up the system.  I just put a small hose on the bleed 
screw and run it up over something high so no air goes in then down into 
a jar.  A quick grip bar clamp is handy for squeezing the piston back 
in, unless you have a VW like my wife's. You will likely need to add 
some fluid in the master cylinder afterwards.

Brian

On 7/2/2015 11:56 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> the tune of more than $400.  Ibd like to avoid putting that much more into
> the car, especially after yesterdaybs bill, and will probably just do the
> brakes myself.  I have never done brakes on anything newer than a mid-70bs
> Toyota, but have researched the Ridgeline and the job looks fairly
> straightforward.  First, though, I have to decided if I need to replace just
> the pads or if I should do the rotors while I am at it.
>
> I am not 100% sure I trust this dealer yet, especially after I asked some
> questions about the rotors.  I was originally told they would be too thin
> after turning.  Then I asked if they were scored or warped and he said they
> were fine but added something about not being able to turn them due to
> corrosion on the edges. So, I am not sure exactly why they canbt be turned.
> I asked about just changing the pads and he said that more than likely this
> would result in pulsing of the brakes due to smooth pads on worn rotors.
> First question to the group: do we agree with him on that?  Which leads to my
> second question: has anyone here used EBC Greenstuff pads?
> (http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/)  I have been told that
> the bBrake-In Coatingb is basically a sandpaper finish that sands the
> rotors during the initial stops and smooths out the wear patterns from the
> previous pads.  If this is correct, I might be able to get away with just a
> quick and dirty pad replacement.
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