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Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2015 18:22:07 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Woo Hoo!
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Well everything is back to normal, or as normal as it ever gets. You should now be
able to send mail to Team.Net lists and have it work as before.

mjb.

PS: Still overpaid and underworked, but a LOT less stressed out!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2015 20:42:41 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Woo Hoo!
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If I wanted "normal", I'd join a Yahoo group...

Thanks, Mark, for all you do to keep the asylum operating.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
> Well everything is back to normal, or as normal as it ever gets. You should
> now be
> able to send mail to Team.Net lists and have it work as before.
>
> mjb.
>
> PS: Still overpaid and underworked, but a LOT less stressed out!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 12:34:00 2015
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Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2015 11:33:50 -0700
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pendant light repair
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Hi folks..I'm repairing a kitchen pendant light for a friend. She's not 
here so I have no idea who makes it, but likely not a big box store item.

Problem is the light won't light, and it's not the bulb. I removed the 
canopy cover to inspect things, but I can't get the wires to unclip from 
the pendant section so that I can poke arund without the weight of the 
glass pulling on the wires. How do these things come undone? The wire 
into the ferrule that feeds the hanging line that goes to the pendant 
seem to be spade connectors, yet I can't pull them off, even with pliers.

I'll have pics as soon as bloody windows decides to allow file transfers.

thanks
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 13:02:46 2015
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Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2015 11:50:51 -0700
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <55748E8E.4070306@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pendant light repair
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Pic:

http://groupwbench.org/NoemiLight2.JPG

Sorry for the blurriness, its not in the best position for picture taking.

jim

On 6/7/2015 11:33 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> Hi folks..I'm repairing a kitchen pendant light for a friend. She's 
> not here so I have no idea who makes it, but likely not a big box 
> store item.
>
> Problem is the light won't light, and it's not the bulb. I removed the 
> canopy cover to inspect things, but I can't get the wires to unclip 
> from the pendant section so that I can poke arund without the weight 
> of the glass pulling on the wires. How do these things come undone? 
> The wire into the ferrule that feeds the hanging line that goes to the 
> pendant seem to be spade connectors, yet I can't pull them off, even 
> with pliers.
>
> I'll have pics as soon as bloody windows decides to allow file transfers.
>
> thanks
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 16:05:02 2015
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Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2015 15:00:47 -0700
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Ian McFetridge <ian@mcfetridge.org>
References: <55748E8E.4070306@groupwbench.org>
 <5574928B.3080000@groupwbench.org>
 <CAFnfnRU75TVum9E54s+uHmD7A0Q1YuceswaO86RiZz4EP94j4w@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pendant light repair
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Definitely a transformer, which I've tested via bulb to the output and 
declared it faulty. I'm assuming the tight wire nuts to the input mean a 
solid connection. For $12 its worth not un-knotting the birds nest in 
the electric box.

I guess I'll just cut the wires and not bother properly disassembling 
them, which bugs me, but so does screwing around with cheap crap not 
designed to be maintained.

jim

On 6/7/2015 1:42 PM, Ian McFetridge wrote:
> I had something similar in our house.  I tested the feed and it was 
> live, so I rewired the feed to the wires coming off of the socket, 
> fixed it.  Caution that some pendants are 12v and will have a 
> transformer hidden somewhere...I'd meter test the feed to check.
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 2015, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org 
>
>     Pic:
>
>     http://groupwbench.org/NoemiLight2.JPG
>
>     Sorry for the blurriness, its not in the best position for picture
>     taking.
>
>     jim
>
>     On 6/7/2015 11:33 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
>
>         Hi folks..I'm repairing a kitchen pendant light for a friend.
>         She's not here so I have no idea who makes it, but likely not
>         a big box store item.
>
>         Problem is the light won't light, and it's not the bulb. I
>         removed the canopy cover to inspect things, but I can't get
>         the wires to unclip from the pendant section so that I can
>         poke arund without the weight of the glass pulling on the
>         wires. How do these things come undone? The wire into the
>         ferrule that feeds the hanging line that goes to the pendant
>         seem to be spade connectors, yet I can't pull them off, even
>         with pliers.
>
>         I'll have pics as soon as bloody windows decides to allow file
>         transfers.
>
>         thanks
>         jim
>         _______________________________________________
>
>         Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>         Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 11:26:32 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

After getting tired of fooling around with boosters, antennas, etc, I 
finally ran a Cat 6 direct burial cable out to the shop, which is a 
metal pole barn, and being such, relatively impervious to WiFi. That 
solved the problem of connecting my shop computer to the net (but of 
course raises the whole other issue of time wasting net surfing out in 
the shop...).   Anyway, now I could use wifi out in the shop since my 
iPad and phone can't connect to the wifi inside the shop.  I have a four 
port switch out there I am using to connect the computer and my solar 
panel stuff to, so I have room for an access point.  I'm looking for a 
recommendation for an inexpensive, reliable access point; I don't need a 
booster or range extender since it's only got to work inside my 24 x 48 
foot shop building.

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 13:06:15 2015
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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:06:15 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>, Shop-Talk
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had one of these for a while, and it has worked fine for me:


http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Mbps-Wireless-Easy-N-Upgrader-TEW-637AP/dp/B00134LUE2

It is cheaper than most other access points, which for some reason are
usually a lot more expensive than routers.

Doug

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 2:26 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
wrote:

> After getting tired of fooling around with boosters, antennas, etc, I
> finally ran a Cat 6 direct burial cable out to the shop, which is a metal
> pole barn, and being such, relatively impervious to WiFi. That solved the
> problem of connecting my shop computer to the net (but of course raises the
> whole other issue of time wasting net surfing out in the shop...).
>  Anyway, now I could use wifi out in the shop since my iPad and phone can't
> connect to the wifi inside the shop.  I have a four port switch out there I
> am using to connect the computer and my solar panel stuff to, so I have
> room for an access point.  I'm looking for a recommendation for an
> inexpensive, reliable access point; I don't need a booster or range
> extender since it's only got to work inside my 24 x 48 foot shop building.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 13:35:26 2015
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:14:11 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 06/16/2015 15:14:12, Serialize complete at
 06/16/2015 15:14:12
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave C asks about WAP...

Dave, one think to think about (and only because I had this problem will 
ALL my outdoor, direct buried CAT 5 cable.

Make sure that on both sides there is  'surge' like protection.  I've lost 
countless devices till I figured this out.  I ended up going either 
wireless, aerial, or unplug the connections due to this problem.

it's doesn't take much stray voltage (from a lighting strike or something) 
to 'brick' a WEP.

I may be wrong, but that is what I ended up doing to prevent the failures 
I was seeing.




Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:35:06 -0400
To: "David C." <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a number of access points around the house, because the aluminum
siding and interior ducting wreaks havoc on the wifi signals. Here is what
I would suggest:

- Pick up an inexpensive 802.11n router (like the this Asus:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=33-320-158).
- Disable its DHCP server (so it doesn't conflict with the existing network
- Configure its SSID and encryption the same as your main access point (so
you can just transparently go from one to the other)
- Connect one of its LAN ports (in the Asus, the yellow ports, not the blue
"Internet" port) to the switch in your office - or replace the switch with
the one in the Asus

In fact, if you are using an 802.11b/g AP elsewhere, I would replace it
with the above. 802.11n is a great improvement over 802.11g, and the Asus
is an excellent value.

NFI, just happy with the gear.

-Peter


After getting tired of fooling around with boosters, antennas, etc, I
finally ran a Cat 6 direct burial cable out to the shop, which is a metal
pole barn, and being such, relatively impervious to WiFi. That solved the
problem of connecting my shop computer to the net (but of course raises the
whole other issue of time wasting net surfing out in the shop...).
 Anyway, now I could use wifi out in the shop since my iPad and phone can't
connect to the wifi inside the shop.  I have a four port switch out there I
am using to connect the computer and my solar panel stuff to, so I have
room for an access point.  I'm looking for a recommendation for an
inexpensive, reliable access point; I don't need a booster or range
extender since it's only got to work inside my 24 x 48 foot shop building.

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:23:00 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 06/16/2015 15:23:02, Serialize complete at
 06/16/2015 15:23:02
Subject: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I live out in farm country, (and I have a farm) but I was wondering 
what color (colors) should I paint them so they aren't as much as an 
eyesore.

Now, I get that painting them green would blend them in during the summer, 
but once the leaves are down, they would stick out (same for the reverse 
if I paint them brown or white.)

Then I was thinking about a military camo job, but that seems like alot of 
work for large containers (I have 3 of them to paint.)

Does anyone have any suggestions for cheap/easy camo?  If it can't be 
both, cheaper is better, but I'm pretty flexible.

Thanks in advance!

(BTW, I'm in western NJ in case that makes a difference.)

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:51:24 -0400
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

One amendment to my prior email - this Asus RT-N12 router is probably an
even better value. For $10 more, you will get better signal strength and
better performance:

http://amzn.com/B00DWFPDNO

Also, Eric speaks sooth. Ground surges from nearby lightning strikes can
have devastating results on electronics. There are a bunch of power strips
with network/coax/telephone protection, but the specs on the dedicated
protection hardware is much better. I'd put this on both ends:

http://amzn.com/B000BKUSS8

-Peter

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 3:14 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Dave C asks about WAP...
>
> Dave, one think to think about (and only because I had this problem will
> ALL my outdoor, direct buried CAT 5 cable.
>
> Make sure that on both sides there is  'surge' like protection.  I've lost
> countless devices till I figured this out.  I ended up going either
> wireless, aerial, or unplug the connections due to this problem.
>
> it's doesn't take much stray voltage (from a lighting strike or something)
> to 'brick' a WEP.
>
> I may be wrong, but that is what I ended up doing to prevent the failures
> I was seeing.
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:53:14 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I live in a wooded area.  I painted my shop dark brown, with green
doors and trim.  In the summer, it disappears in the shade under the
trees, in the winter, it's just one more brown thing in the forest.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 3:23 PM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> OK, I live out in farm country, (and I have a farm) but I was wondering
> what color (colors) should I paint them so they aren't as much as an
> eyesore.
>
> Now, I get that painting them green would blend them in during the summer,
> but once the leaves are down, they would stick out (same for the reverse
> if I paint them brown or white.)
>
> Then I was thinking about a military camo job, but that seems like alot of
> work for large containers (I have 3 of them to paint.)
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for cheap/easy camo?  If it can't be
> both, cheaper is better, but I'm pretty flexible.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> (BTW, I'm in western NJ in case that makes a difference.)
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:59:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OFD1CB07F2.01305E2A-ON85257E66.0069AC11-85257E66.006C6C05@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions for cheap/easy camo?  If it can't be
> both, cheaper is better, but I'm pretty flexible.

    Lots of chrome spray paint... it'll reflect whatever surrounds it.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 15:59:38 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I wouldn't overthink it.  Hide them with trees (big, pointy pines) where
you can and then just accept that they are what they are.  To my eye, a
bunch of camo junk on somebody's property looks a bit trashy.  At least the
bare containers in a solid color are clean and functional.

-Paul

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 3:23 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, I live out in farm country, (and I have a farm) but I was wondering
> what color (colors) should I paint them so they aren't as much as an
> eyesore.
>
> Now, I get that painting them green would blend them in during the summer,
> but once the leaves are down, they would stick out (same for the reverse
> if I paint them brown or white.)
>
> Then I was thinking about a military camo job, but that seems like alot of
> work for large containers (I have 3 of them to paint.)
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for cheap/easy camo?  If it can't be
> both, cheaper is better, but I'm pretty flexible.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> (BTW, I'm in western NJ in case that makes a difference.)
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <OFD1CB07F2.01305E2A-ON85257E66.0069AC11-85257E66.006C6C05@mail.megageek.com>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 16:04:39 -0400
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What about a darker red, somewhat like a barn would be painted? Are you
planning to put a pitched roof on it? If not, you may already be
considering painting the roof a light color to reduce solar heating during
the summer (if that matters).

If you are fortunate enough to have mainly a single direction from which
the public (and you) would see them (from the road and/or your house or
shop windows), you could always position them so you see the small side,
rather than the broad side.

How long will your sea crate be there? Is it "permanent"? If you're
thinking a few years, then maybe some wood trellis and plant some
fast-growing evergreen vines. If "forever", then perhaps some
faster-growing evergreen bushes would be good. Either way, some camo
netting could provide visual cover while the natural stuff does its thing...

Some vines to consider:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/fast-growing-evergreen-vines-44998.html

-Peter

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 3:23 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, I live out in farm country, (and I have a farm) but I was wondering
> what color (colors) should I paint them so they aren't as much as an
> eyesore.
>
> Now, I get that painting them green would blend them in during the summer,
> but once the leaves are down, they would stick out (same for the reverse
> if I paint them brown or white.)
>
> Then I was thinking about a military camo job, but that seems like alot of
> work for large containers (I have 3 of them to paint.)
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for cheap/easy camo?  If it can't be
> both, cheaper is better, but I'm pretty flexible.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> (BTW, I'm in western NJ in case that makes a difference.)
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 16:13:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <55806A58.3000609@frontier.com>
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User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, Peter Murray wrote:
> - Configure its SSID and encryption the same as your main access point (so
> you can just transparently go from one to the other)

    I'm not sure that's a great idea.  If the house signal reaches the 
shop, even weakly ( or vice versa ), you'll have two networks with the 
same name available.  I bet that'll cause more problems than it'll solve.

    Any modern device can store access credentials for dozens of wireless 
networks, so there's minimal advantage to naming them the same anyway.

    Also, from a troubleshooting perspective, two names would be better. 
Say you are in the shop -- or outside on the property -- and your 
connection sucks.  Unbeknownst to you, your shop WAP crashed, and your 
computer jumped to the weak house signal.  You won't be able to tell them 
apart from the client device if they are named the same.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 13:22:42 -0700
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <55806A58.3000609@frontier.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  While its true that any modern device can store access credentials for 
multiple connections, my house wifi barely reaches the garage, its 
usually down to one or 2 bars in the garage and my phone will try and 
stay connected to it, I have to manually tell it to change to the garage 
wifi each time I go in the garage.  They have different names but I had 
not thought of making them the same name and will try that, it sounds 
like it should work but knowing how things work it will likely confuse 
the phone.

  In the house my computers are all wired, so no worries about jumping 
to the weak signal, only my phone and my wife's phone are wifi.

     mike

On 6/16/2015 1:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, Peter Murray wrote:
>> - Configure its SSID and encryption the same as your main access 
>> point (so
>> you can just transparently go from one to the other)
>
>    I'm not sure that's a great idea.  If the house signal reaches the 
> shop, even weakly ( or vice versa ), you'll have two networks with the 
> same name available.  I bet that'll cause more problems than it'll solve.
>
>    Any modern device can store access credentials for dozens of 
> wireless networks, so there's minimal advantage to naming them the 
> same anyway.
>
>    Also, from a troubleshooting perspective, two names would be 
> better. Say you are in the shop -- or outside on the property -- and 
> your connection sucks.  Unbeknownst to you, your shop WAP crashed, and 
> your computer jumped to the weak house signal.  You won't be able to 
> tell them apart from the client device if they are named the same.
>
> -- 
>  David Hillman
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists@dinospider.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 19:02:42 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't places like large offices, schools, and airports have dozens or
hundreds of access points with the same SSID?

Doug

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 4:22 PM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com> wrote:

>  While its true that any modern device can store access credentials for
> multiple connections, my house wifi barely reaches the garage, its usually
> down to one or 2 bars in the garage and my phone will try and stay
> connected to it, I have to manually tell it to change to the garage wifi
> each time I go in the garage.  They have different names but I had not
> thought of making them the same name and will try that, it sounds like it
> should work but knowing how things work it will likely confuse the phone.
>
>  In the house my computers are all wired, so no worries about jumping to
> the weak signal, only my phone and my wife's phone are wifi.
>
>     mike
>
>
> On 6/16/2015 1:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, Peter Murray wrote:
>>
>>> - Configure its SSID and encryption the same as your main access point
>>> (so
>>> you can just transparently go from one to the other)
>>>
>>
>>    I'm not sure that's a great idea.  If the house signal reaches the
>> shop, even weakly ( or vice versa ), you'll have two networks with the same
>> name available.  I bet that'll cause more problems than it'll solve.
>>
>>    Any modern device can store access credentials for dozens of wireless
>> networks, so there's minimal advantage to naming them the same anyway.
>>
>>    Also, from a troubleshooting perspective, two names would be better.
>> Say you are in the shop -- or outside on the property -- and your
>> connection sucks.  Unbeknownst to you, your shop WAP crashed, and your
>> computer jumped to the weak house signal.  You won't be able to tell them
>> apart from the client device if they are named the same.
>>
>> --
>>  David Hillman
>> _
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 17:07:55 -0700
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Commercial Wi-Fi environments like airports that have a large area with
contiguous coverage in a single SSID typically have high end equipment that
utilizes Wi-Fi Extender capabilities and are capable of parsing data and
clients between the devices in the network structure without impacting
throughput.

Some systems out there have a mode you can set manually that allows for the
Access Point to be configured as an extender, but be aware that this could
drastically reduce your total throughput of the system (tying up the
limited available channels in 802.11bg 2.4GHz).

A better option may be to use the features in lower quality home market
systems, and have the second device act as a Repeater.  This is also
something that might have to be done manually in the configuration.
Typically this will create a "cloned" network with a new unique SSID that
is served by the original network (including secure access for mac id
limited connections or DHCP).  The benefit is that if you don't actually
roam into an area where the two SSID are identical or similar in strength,
your device will mostly seamlessly transition, and your traffic will not be
limited to sharing channels and handshake contention between the two
SSID's.  You will also be able to run the two different SSID's on different
channels essentially doubling the available capacity instead of sharing it.



--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 4:02 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Don't places like large offices, schools, and airports have dozens or
> hundreds of access points with the same SSID?
>
> Doug
>
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 4:22 PM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
> wrote:
>
> >  While its true that any modern device can store access credentials for
> > multiple connections, my house wifi barely reaches the garage, its
> usually
> > down to one or 2 bars in the garage and my phone will try and stay
> > connected to it, I have to manually tell it to change to the garage wifi
> > each time I go in the garage.  They have different names but I had not
> > thought of making them the same name and will try that, it sounds like it
> > should work but knowing how things work it will likely confuse the phone.
> >
> >  In the house my computers are all wired, so no worries about jumping to
> > the weak signal, only my phone and my wife's phone are wifi.
> >
> >     mike
> >
> >
> > On 6/16/2015 1:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> >
> >> On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, Peter Murray wrote:
> >>
> >>> - Configure its SSID and encryption the same as your main access point
> >>> (so
> >>> you can just transparently go from one to the other)
> >>>
> >>
> >>    I'm not sure that's a great idea.  If the house signal reaches the
> >> shop, even weakly ( or vice versa ), you'll have two networks with the
> same
> >> name available.  I bet that'll cause more problems than it'll solve.
> >>
> >>    Any modern device can store access credentials for dozens of wireless
> >> networks, so there's minimal advantage to naming them the same anyway.
> >>
> >>    Also, from a troubleshooting perspective, two names would be better.
> >> Say you are in the shop -- or outside on the property -- and your
> >> connection sucks.  Unbeknownst to you, your shop WAP crashed, and your
> >> computer jumped to the weak house signal.  You won't be able to tell
> them
> >> apart from the client device if they are named the same.
> >>
> >> --
> >>  David Hillman
> >> _
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 18:55:25 -0700
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFD1CB07F2.01305E2A-ON85257E66.0069AC11-85257E66.006C6C05@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
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Camo net?

On 6/16/2015 12:23 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions for cheap/easy camo?  If it can't be
> both, cheaper is better, but I'm pretty flexible.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 22:22:57 -0400
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug is correct - this is exactly how large offices, stadiums, Home Depot
and other commercial facilities illuminate large/densely populated
environments with good coverage.

His client won't see multiple networks - it will see multiple access points
with the same SSID, and will choose the one that presents the best signal
(with an algorithm that will choose when it is time to move to a different
access point). I do this at work and here at home, and it does not require
anything fancy or special. Wifi networks can achieve optimal client handoff
between access points with the use of central management (like cell phones
do), but it will work very well without it.

Using multiple separate access points will provide the fastest performance
(when a single access point is either not enough to cover a large area or
will have too many clients). Repeaters inherently slow the network down,
because every transmission is repeated on the same channel as the
originating transmission. Just make sure the channels don't overlap with
the different access points (on 2.4GHz, use 1, 6 or 11 - the width of the
signals is wider than the width of the channel). Use a "wifi analyzer" app
on your mobile phone to check which channel is most clear, if you live with
nearby neighbors.

-Peter

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 7:02 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Don't places like large offices, schools, and airports have dozens or
> hundreds of access points with the same SSID?
>
> Doug
>
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 4:22 PM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
> wrote:
>
> >  While its true that any modern device can store access credentials for
> > multiple connections, my house wifi barely reaches the garage, its
> usually
> > down to one or 2 bars in the garage and my phone will try and stay
> > connected to it, I have to manually tell it to change to the garage wifi
> > each time I go in the garage.  They have different names but I had not
> > thought of making them the same name and will try that, it sounds like it
> > should work but knowing how things work it will likely confuse the phone.
> >
> >  In the house my computers are all wired, so no worries about jumping to
> > the weak signal, only my phone and my wife's phone are wifi.
> >
> >     mike
> >
> >
> > On 6/16/2015 1:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> >
> >> On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, Peter Murray wrote:
> >>
> >>> - Configure its SSID and encryption the same as your main access point
> >>> (so
> >>> you can just transparently go from one to the other)
> >>>
> >>
> >>    I'm not sure that's a great idea.  If the house signal reaches the
> >> shop, even weakly ( or vice versa ), you'll have two networks with the
> same
> >> name available.  I bet that'll cause more problems than it'll solve.
> >>
> >>    Any modern device can store access credentials for dozens of wireless
> >> networks, so there's minimal advantage to naming them the same anyway.
> >>
> >>    Also, from a troubleshooting perspective, two names would be better.
> >> Say you are in the shop -- or outside on the property -- and your
> >> connection sucks.  Unbeknownst to you, your shop WAP crashed, and your
> >> computer jumped to the weak house signal.  You won't be able to tell
> them
> >> apart from the client device if they are named the same.
> >>
> >> --
> >>  David Hillman
> >> _
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 20:35:39 2015
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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 19:18:52 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
References: <OFD1CB07F2.01305E2A-ON85257E66.0069AC11-85257E66.006C6C05@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

         Why try to hide it if you can have some fun with it?

         Here is an example of how a local retirement home camouflaged the 
ugly mechanical stuff on their roof:
<http://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/hearthstones-rooftop-farm-yields-bumper-crop-of-fun/>

         Just gotta buy some paint and let your inner artist out to play!

Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       520,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 20:36:03 2015
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From: Chuck <crothfuss@coastalnet.com>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
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Paint the container tan with darker random vertical "branches" and plant Kudzu or bamboo around the container.

In a couple years you might not even be able to find it. 

C
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 20:37:15 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Camouflaging a connex (intermodal container)
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Paint the container tan with darker vertical "branches", then plant kudzu or bamboo around it.

In a couple years you may not be able to find it.

C
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 22:42:56 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 9:22 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:
> Doug is correct - this is exactly how large offices, stadiums, Home Depot
> and other commercial facilities illuminate large/densely populated
> environments with good coverage.
>
> His client won't see multiple networks - it will see multiple access points
> with the same SSID, and will choose the one that presents the best signal
> (with an algorithm that will choose when it is time to move to a different
> access point). I do this at work and here at home, and it does not require
> anything fancy or special. Wifi networks can achieve optimal client handoff
> between access points with the use of central management (like cell phones
> do), but it will work very well without it.
>

For small and medium sized networks, I've had very good success with
ubiquiti's Unifi stuff.  Bunch of different models, to do different
things, including point to point links and out doors coverage.
Reasonably priced, for good gear.  (The basic 2.4 ghz 802.11n models
are dirt cheap; the rest of the line is just not expensive by the
standards of commerical gear.)

They're just APs, you'd need a dhcp server, router, etc.  There's a
java based management system, which needn't run except when you're
managing them (or if you want to do some stuff that are out of scope
for shop talk.)

The ones at work seemlessly dealt with the switch that several of them
are plugged into failing, falling back into relay over wireless to
stations that still had working ethernet, and dealt with the switch
coming back to life, no problem.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 15:13:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wifi access point?
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On Tue, 16 Jun 2015, Doug Braun wrote:
> Don't places like large offices, schools, and airports have dozens or
> hundreds of access points with the same SSID?

    Yes, but that's a different use case.  It's clearly unreasonable to 
expect people to enter dozens of SSIDs and passwords into their device. 
Also, there's probably someone collecting performance metrics on those 
WAPs, who will know if and when there's a problem with one.  And they 
probably have enough overlapping coverage that one failed WAP wouldn't be 
noticable anyway.

    None of that applies to a home installation with two WAPs.  YMMV.

    The 802.11 header includes the MAC address of the WAP.  In other words, 
packets are addressed to a specific WAP, not to the network or by the 
SSID.  If a given device has excessive hysteresis and refuses to switch 
between two networks when the relative signal quality changes, it probably 
won't switch between 2 WAPs on the same network either.  And you'll be 
unable to force it to do so manually.

--
  David Hillman
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 22:08:34 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop light problems - update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> The last time I looked at a spec sheet, there were four numbers, for 3
>> and 12 hour run times, using IS and RS ballasts.  The IS life time was
>> about 50% of the RS for 3 hour run time, and about 80% for 12 hour.
>
> Ok, this is the first T8 spec sheet I found.  It gives only two numbers (for 3
> and 12 hour run times), saying they apply for rapid start, programmed start
> and instant start ballasts.
>
> http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/us/ecatalog/fluor/pdf/p-5338e.pdf
>
> They do quote "competitor" data showing somewhat shorter bulb life with
> instant start, but the difference is more like 20-25%, not 50%.  No doubt it
> would get worse with shorter cycles, but that still doesn't necessarily mean
> it's better to leave the light on when you're not using it.
> http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/fluorescent_lights.html
>

So, digging up a years old thread, because I happened to be looking at
the spec sheet for sylvania programmed start ballasts.
http://assets.sylvania.com/assets/Documents/QUICKTRONIC%20QHE%20PROStart%20T8%20Parallel%20Operation%20Systems%20(ECS218).2d59f1d4-f342-4187-868f-a209d1cb82a7.pdf

It has a a chart comparing tube lifespan for their instant start
ballast vs two different programmed start ballasts.  AT one hour, the
instant start bulb is about 7500 hrs, while the longer lived program
start one is 45000.  There's a big jump for three hour run times, the
difference is 25000 to 50000.  For ten minutes, it's about 1000 vs
35000.  (Ten minutes is pretty common for occupancy sensor timeouts)
There's no comparaison of lumen outputs, though (you can trade
slightly dimmer tubes for much longer life).


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 26 22:37:36 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 21:37:45 -0700
Thread-Index: AdCwhpjVH/JATCFzSKOs6/mJwcr67wAC8MfA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop light problems - update
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> It has a a chart comparing tube lifespan for their instant start
> ballast vs two different programmed start ballasts. 

Kind of moot at this point, at least for me.  I'm already starting to convert to LED, although I expect LED technology to continue
to improve rapidly for several more years.

Not perfect by any means, but at least there is no penalty for turning them off when you don't need them.

Randall
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Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 10:19:59 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop light T8 to LED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been gradually replacing the T8 fixtures in my shop.  The previous
owner installed 12 two tube fixtures, so I've only be putting on LED tube
in each fixture as I remove the ballasts and make the update.  I've
installed 8 so far and in each case the one LED is as bright, if not
brighter than the two old (maybe 10 years) T8 fluorescent tubes.  The brand
I have been using is below, I bought a couple last year for $23, then $21,
now I see they are down to $16.  Has anyone found a better option?

Also, does anyone know where I can properly dispose of the fluorescent
tubes?  My township will take them on hazardous waste day, but they only do
that twice a year and I was out of town for the last one.  Home Deport/
Lowes?

JACKYLED 20W 50W Replacement, Replacement Energy Saving LED T8 T10 Tube for
48" 1.2m 4ft Fluorescent Replacement Light Lamp Fixture No Ballast No Uv &
Ir Day White Smd Bulb 5500-6000k
by JACKYLED
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IBVNDMM

Thanks,
Ian
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 27 11:46:03 2015
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Ian McFetridge'" <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>, "Shop Talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAFnfnRXuxvAtrHobePTsBE-DDsXW5JvY9C9rZbSsjS=YzYyJCw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 13:46:07 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop light T8 to LED
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If you are not using the ballast, what do you modify to use this?
How does it work?

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian
McFetridge
Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2015 10:20 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop light T8 to LED

I've been gradually replacing the T8 fixtures in my shop.  The previous
owner installed 12 two tube fixtures, so I've only be putting on LED tube in
each fixture as I remove the ballasts and make the update.  I've installed 8
so far and in each case the one LED is as bright, if not brighter than the
two old (maybe 10 years) T8 fluorescent tubes.  The brand I have been using
is below, I bought a couple last year for $23, then $21, now I see they are
down to $16.  Has anyone found a better option?

Also, does anyone know where I can properly dispose of the fluorescent
tubes?  My township will take them on hazardous waste day, but they only do
that twice a year and I was out of town for the last one.  Home Deport/
Lowes?

JACKYLED 20W 50W Replacement, Replacement Energy Saving LED T8 T10 Tube for
48" 1.2m 4ft Fluorescent Replacement Light Lamp Fixture No Ballast No Uv &
Ir Day White Smd Bulb 5500-6000k by JACKYLED
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IBVNDMM

Thanks,
Ian
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc@lotusowners.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 27 12:30:30 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 11:28:44 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHQsOVwvO0WskxOAUSC+VpXvJDPZZ3AoElggAAJblA=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop light T8 to LED
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> If you are not using the ballast, what do you modify to use this?
> How does it work?

The LED power supply is buried in the bulb assembly.  You just wire the old fluorescent bulb connectors directly to the AC line, and
disconnect/remove the old fluorescent ballast.

The exact wiring depends on which bulb you buy.  You should get detailed instructions with the bulb.  With some bulbs and some
fixtures, you may have to replace the connectors (aka tombstones) as well, but you can still reuse the fixture.

-- Randall  
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 27 12:45:34 2015
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 27 20:19:21 2015
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Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 21:15:58 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  Shop light T8 to LED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Jun 27, 2015 at 12:46 PM, Tony Vaccaro <tvacc@lotusowners.com> wrote:
> If you are not using the ballast, what do you modify to use this?
> How does it work?
>

You wire it straight to mains.   there are also some that work with an
existing ballast; they won't be as efficient, but they're certainly
easier.

None of the ones I've seen have had an output anywhere close to a good
t8 fluorescent bulb, including the ones that claimed to.  That's
measured, with a good light meter, not subjective.  They're getting
better, and will get there eventually, but they're not there yet.

--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 29 11:20:58 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2015 12:59:23 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 06/29/2015 12:59:25, Serialize complete at
 06/29/2015 12:59:25
Subject: [Shop-talk] do we have any metal guys here of high caliber? (shop
	related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there anyone here that can help me calculate the thickness of steel I 
would need to build something like this...

http://www.rangemasterrowdy.com/dueling-tree-steel-targets.htm

But something that could withstand 38 special /40 cal/ and if possible, 
5.56 Nato rounds?

I don't know where to look for table that explain steal resistance to 
weapons fire.

I do know that I will be angling the targets so they will not be square to 
the impact force, which adds another dimension to the calculations that I 
don't know how to determine.

Thanks.

(If anyone one is in the NJ area and wants to come and shoot once it's 
built, you are more than welcome.)


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 29 11:43:13 2015
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2015 12:39:18 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] do we have any metal guys here of high caliber?
 (shop related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The thickness is not so much the thing as the grade of steel.  You need a
minimum of AR500 for the rifle calibers, and preferably AR550 (if you can
find it).  3/8" is probably good enough for 5.56 at 100 yards, but not any
closer/, if you want to shoot closer or move up to magnum calibers, you
need at least 1/2".  Even 1/2" of AR500 is going to get dimpled at any
range less than 50 yards when shooting rifle calibers.

Not for the tricky part, cutting AR grade steel is a pain in the butt.  The
AR designation means that it is abrasion resistant.  This is accomplished
via surface heat treating.  Cutting AR500 with a torch (and to a lesser
degree a plasma cutter) heats the steel enough to destroy the heat treat
along the cut edge.  So for small targets, you can completely destroy the
AR treatment and end up with pain old steel.  Laser and water jut cutting
greatly reduces this, but does not eliminate it.  Another solution is to
redo the AR heat treat after cutting the parts out.  This requires a
specialized fixture that can heat treat the surfaces without hardening the
whole piece.

For this reason, most folks who don't have access to high end metal cutting
equipment just buy already made targets like you describe.

On Mon, Jun 29, 2015 at 11:59 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Is there anyone here that can help me calculate the thickness of steel I
> would need to build something like this...
>
> http://www.rangemasterrowdy.com/dueling-tree-steel-targets.htm
>
> But something that could withstand 38 special /40 cal/ and if possible,
> 5.56 Nato rounds?
>
> I don't know where to look for table that explain steal resistance to
> weapons fire.
>
> I do know that I will be angling the targets so they will not be square to
> the impact force, which adds another dimension to the calculations that I
> don't know how to determine.
>
> Thanks.
>
> (If anyone one is in the NJ area and wants to come and shoot once it's
> built, you are more than welcome.)
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
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-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 29 12:03:59 2015
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2015 11:00:26 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OF998B0604.1C215556-ON85257E73.005E64D1-85257E73.005EE145@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] do we have any metal guys here of high caliber?
 (shop related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I have made a bunch of mild steel targets.  .223 and 7.62x37 will shoot 
through 1/4 and 3/8" at normal ranges and can penetrate 1/2" closer up, 
and will spall the surface badly at any ranges.  .308 will penetrate and 
spall just about anything you're going to build out of scrap.  9mm, .40 
cal and jacketed .38 special will badly deform 1/4" and 3/8", making 
ricochets very unpredictable.

After years of making my own steel targets, only to have them shot to 
crap in a few sessions, I finally started buying professionally made 
armor plate targets.  I have had great luck with these guys:
> http://shootingtargets7.com/

I only make my own targets now for .22.




On 6/29/2015 9:59 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Is there anyone here that can help me calculate the thickness of steel I
> would need to build something like this...
>
> http://www.rangemasterrowdy.com/dueling-tree-steel-targets.htm
>
> But something that could withstand 38 special /40 cal/ and if possible,
> 5.56 Nato rounds?
>
> I don't know where to look for table that explain steal resistance to
> weapons fire.
>
> I do know that I will be angling the targets so they will not be square to
> the impact force, which adds another dimension to the calculations that I
> don't know how to determine.
>
> Thanks.
>
> (If anyone one is in the NJ area and wants to come and shoot once it's
> built, you are more than welcome.)
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 29 12:43:43 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2015 11:43:48 -0700
Thread-Index: AdCylgc8dd9TlklYTF+IhABBW9S4dwAA4z2Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] do we have any metal guys here of high caliber?
 (shop related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm certainly no expert, but I believe the trick is to angle the steel so the bullets only hit a glancing blow.  Basically a steep
funnel, that directs the flying bullets into kind of a dust trap arrangement where they eventually lose all their energy and fall to
the bottom.  Or put some sort of absorbing medium in the bottom, like sand or mulch.

Google for "bullet trap diy", you'll find lots of designs.  Here's one
http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/forum/f277/making-your-own-bullet-trap-295357/

For higher caliber, you probably need to make the angles steeper rather than just making the steel heavier.

-- Randall  
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