Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives?

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 06:18:23 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/16/2015 06:18:07, Serialize complete at 05/16/2015 06:18:07

One other idea is to cut the floor of the pick up above the tank sending 
units.  This gives you free access to the tank, without having to remove 
it.  You may be able to just replace pump without having to replace 
anything else.

Here is just one of many utubes videos on this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2aEAeUNVLU

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 07:43:51 -0400

> it.  You may be able to just replace pump without having to replace

Wouldn't it be easier to unbolt the bed and raise it up to get to the tank?
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 08:50:33 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/16/2015 08:50:16, Serialize complete at 05/16/2015 08:50:16

Jeff asks...

>Wouldn't it be easier to unbolt the bed and raise it up to get to the 
tank?

For some.  I raised the bed a few years ago when I did this.  But for 
people without lifts, tractors, or other big things that make heavy things 
go up, this is pretty quick. 8>)

Plus, if the truck is very rusty (like noted) taking the bed off might be 
another case where you end up replacing other items as you try to remove 
it.
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From: John Miller <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 10:04:11 -0700

> another case where you end up replacing other items as you try to remove

Yeah if it's a rustbucket of limited future potential then you want to 
disturb as little as possible, lest you end up having to drill out lots 
of bolts and fabricate lots of new brackets.

It's a truck, and it looks like the tank's in the rear, so ramps or a 
couple jackstands should provide enough clearance.  I would eyeball the 
retaining straps carefully, soak all the hardware in your penetrating 
oil of choice (me it's the 50/50 ATF/acetone mix), and maybe source a 
couple new mounting straps just in case it proves easiest just to cut 
the buggers and deal with the stubs left once the tank is out.

John.

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From: "Tim ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 09:23:31 -0500

Loads of great suggestions. Too many to address individually actually.

I especially like, though, the idea of cutting the bed to access the top of
the tank. If I don't have to disturb any of the crusty lines to access the
sender that will save me loads of headaches.

Thanks guys. You are all a great resource for guys like me who don't really
(yet) know how to deal with stuff like this.
tim

> From: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 17:31:43 -0500
> Subject: [Shop-talk] alternatives?
>
>  Hi All,
>
> I am trying to keep my SHOP truck alive. It is a 96 Chevy S10 with the 4.3l
> V6. It has right around 200K miles and was tired but running good before
what
> we believe is a fuel pump failure. Living in the rust belt (WI) it is VERY
> RUSTY having been a daily driver since I got it back in '99. I have to
assume
> that if and when I drop the fuel tank that I am going to find that the tank
> will need to be replaced as well as the fuel pump and sending unit. I know
> that all the hard lines are very crusty as well with one already having
been
> "patched" with high pressure rubber line.
>
> What I am wondering is if is there is any chance of my putting a fuel tank
in
> the bed of the truck and running that way? Can I run just a fuel line from
the
> tank to the engine or do I absolutely have to have a return line? If I have
to
> start replacing with stock parts, it will quickly add up to more than the
> truck is worth. This truck will be driven very few miles; less than 50 a
month
> if even that.
>
> Also, does anyone have a source for long lengths of high pressure fuel
> (rubber) hose? All I've been able to find is short bits.
>
> Thanks for any and all advice!
> tim
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