Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8?

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:11 -0400

You could clamp a 4 x4 to the rear edge of the boards. Then with the
circular saw set at 30 degrees, put the saw base against the rear face of
the 4 x4.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> I decided to go with 2x8s as my trailer deck, but having an abrupt edge
> would
> make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match
> the
> deployed ramp, about 60 degrees (relative to the butt end). My circular,
> table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw.
> Any
> ideas on how to get over to 60?
>
> There are 8 boards, so things like belt sanding from a 45, or using a
> capricious hand saw are a last resort :-)
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From: Doug Braun <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:49:30 -0400

Google "scarfing jig".

Doug

On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw. Any

[email-masked]

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From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 16:29:12 -0400

On May 18, 2015, at 3:10 PM, [email-masked] wrote:

> You could clamp a 4 x4

This and the scarfing jig would have worked except the depth of cut is 3.5"
and the saws only go to 2.75.

Tried one with the sawzall and the blade exit line wandered all over.

jim

[email-masked]

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From: "Eric J Russell" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 17:11:58 -0400

If you are not able to set the angle to 30 degrees and cut from the end of 
the boards, you could make an angle cut from each narrow edge then finish 
with a hand saw. If your saw cuts 2.5" deep then you'd have ~ 2.5" to cut by 
hand.

If you have a router you can make simple scarfing jig.

Or, can you end the decking an inch or so short and put an angled strip 
across the ends?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 3:00 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8?

[email-masked]

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From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 17:56:39 -0400

So, I ended up clamping all the boards together edge up, staggered, and made
one long cut. Flipped the bundle over, made another. Then put the "instant
amputee" pruning blade into the sawzall and finished the middle part.

The belt sander took care of the unevenness. They won't match when adjacent
but clearly there was no elegant solution in reasonable proximity. And I can
belt sand some more to blend the edges if it annoys me.

across the ends?

Something like that - starting the cut 1/2" up the butt end so that the total
depth was less - would have been the ideal solution given my lack of
appropriate tools (no router, no handsaw). But I'd already cut one, and
clipping its edge to match the rest would have meant making it shorter, and I
don't have that wiggle room.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

jim

[email-masked]

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From: ROBERT LANE <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 23:12:40 +0000 (UTC)

Why not setB a skill saw B on a angle to cut the ends?B  then if the angle is
not tapered enough finish it with the sander.CATCH YOU LATER,B B  B  ROBO

     On Monday, May 18, 2015 2:00 PM, Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
wrote:

make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match the

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From: John Miller <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 16:34:14 -0700

> not tapered enough finish it with the sander.CATCH YOU LATER,B B  B  ROBO

I can think of various ways to do this, but they all involve fabricating 
some kind of a jig and if the circular saw available won't cut deep 
enough to do the cut then it's academic anyway.

Easiest thing I can think of is to clamp a couple pieces of 1/8 steel 
across the long sides of the 2x6, with the one on the bottom offset to 
form the 60-degree angle, and run a sawzall down along the steel.  Or 
even four strips of steel and leave yourself a 1/4in channel between 
them for the sawblade to run in.

John.

[email-masked]