From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 2 08:47:29 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C7E932584568 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 08:47:29 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6C42B258048D for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 08:42:31 -0600 (MDT) To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 10:29:28 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/02/2015 10:29:06, Serialize complete at 05/02/2015 10:29:06 Subject: [Shop-talk] Wiring for a pilot light wall switch. Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I bought this switch... > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-Heavy-Duty-Grade-15-Amp-Combination-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-and-Pilot-Light-White-277W-BOX/203492444< And I need to wire it up. The direcitons say that it can not be used as a replacement switch for a standard '2 wire' wall switch. Does anyone know how I can wire this switch (or if they make a switch) that is lit when the switch is "ON" (most are lit when they are off.) Or do they make a switch to do this with just the standard 2 wire outlet. (normal wall switches are just a 'hot' and 'return' line with no common. Do I have to rewire the wall switch? Thanks in advance. Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 2 09:19:21 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CBFFA2584518 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 09:19:21 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.225]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5903D25809CA for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 09:19:12 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [172.248.153.253] ([172.248.153.253:1839] helo=rypc) by cdptpa-oedge01 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id 08/1B-17014-86CE4455; Sat, 02 May 2015 15:25:29 +0000 From: "Randall" To: , Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 08:25:26 -0700 Thread-Index: AdCE59M8GVbcOhN+TieNV3f6BmGDAAAAx/Mg Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring for a pilot light wall switch. Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > I bought this switch... > > > > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-Heavy-Duty-Gr ade-15-Amp-Combination-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-and-Pilot-> Light-White-277W-BOX/203492444< > > And I need to wire it up. The direcitons say that it can not > be used as a > replacement switch for a standard '2 wire' wall switc I'm confused. Does it not have two terminals for the switch, and two for the light? The description says it can be wired to indicate either circuit on or circuit off. To indicate circuit on, just connect one light terminal to the load circuit, and the other to neutral. If you don't have a neutral in the switch box, then you need to run one. However, I won't tell anyone if you use the safety ground, even though that would be a violation of code. A neon bulb doesn't draw enough current to argue about (or even trip a GFCI). -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 2 09:25:31 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 45DA12584B4C for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 09:25:31 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 54E262580517 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 09:25:24 -0600 (MDT) To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 11:12:19 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/02/2015 11:11:59, Serialize complete at 05/02/2015 11:11:59 Cc: Randall Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring for a pilot light wall switch. Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I'm sorry, the link is one that is slightly different then the one I have. The one I have has 3 terminals. but it states in bold letters in the directions (but nowhere on the package) that this switch can not be used to replace a two wire switch. There is a "common", two "Loads" Labeled "A1" and "B1". Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson RE: [Shop-talk] Wiring for a pilot light wall switch. Randall to: eric, shop-talk 05/02/2015 11:05 AM From: "Randall" To: , > I bought this switch... > > > > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-Heavy-Duty-Gr ade-15-Amp-Combination-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-and-Pilot-> Light-White-277W-BOX/203492444< > > And I need to wire it up. The direcitons say that it can not > be used as a > replacement switch for a standard '2 wire' wall switc I'm confused. Does it not have two terminals for the switch, and two for the light? The description says it can be wired to indicate either circuit on or circuit off. To indicate circuit on, just connect one light terminal to the load circuit, and the other to neutral. If you don't have a neutral in the switch box, then you need to run one. However, I won't tell anyone if you use the safety ground, even though that would be a violation of code. A neon bulb doesn't draw enough current to argue about (or even trip a GFCI). -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 2 12:18:44 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 30AC22584CB4 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 12:18:44 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail.avvanta.com (smtp61.avvanta.com [206.124.128.61]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 72BCC25845CA for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 12:18:24 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mail.avvanta.com (localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net [127.0.0.1]) by mail.avvanta.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0900BF393A for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 11:24:16 -0700 (PDT) Received: from BigBlackIvy.racertodd.com (50-46-114-197.evrt.wa.frontiernet.net [50.46.114.197]) by mail.avvanta.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id E0979F3938 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 11:24:15 -0700 (PDT) Date: Sat, 02 May 2015 11:18:20 -0700 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net From: Todd Walke mail.megageek.com> localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring for a pilot light wall switch. Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I think the reason for the "don't use as a replacement for a 2-wire switch" is that the switch you have is a 3-way switch. I've seen 3-way switches with three terminals, and with two of those marked A1 and B1. See this page on Cooper's site, I think you have the model 294 3-way switch. Perhaps you need the model 277 which is listed as a single-pole switch with pilot light? It does list the 277 as having the feature "Pilot light may be wired to indicate power "on" or power "off"" Here is a wiring diagrma for a Cooper 277 switch, top of the page: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 514,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 2 12:49:17 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AFA0A2584E91 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 12:49:17 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.230]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CD71C2584E13 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 12:49:08 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [172.248.153.253] ([172.248.153.253:2966] helo=rypc) by cdptpa-oedge02 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id 71/1A-29365-D9D15455; Sat, 02 May 2015 18:55:26 +0000 From: "Randall" To: , Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 11:55:23 -0700 Thread-Index: AdCE7RZMf3gyIvgTRD+vr7sbyq0QvwAG+egA Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring for a pilot light wall switch. Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > I'm sorry, the link is one that is slightly different then > the one I have. The one I have has 3 terminals. but it > states in bold letters in the directions (but nowhere on the > package) that this switch can not be used to replace a two > wire switch. There is a "common", two "Loads" Labeled "A1" > and "B1". Make take a little investigation, but I don't see why that wouldn't work. To get the light to come on when the switch is on, feed the power to the "load" terminal for the switch (which I assume would be A1, but best to check with an ohmmeter or buzz box); then connect the other "load" terminal to neutral (and the actual load to the "common"). But before you try that, make sure there is never a direct connection between "B1" and the other two terminals! -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 2 17:09:50 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9F25D2584630 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 17:09:50 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a52.g.dreamhost.com (sub5.mail.dreamhost.com [208.113.200.129]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 143CD2580AE8 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 17:09:36 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a52.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a52.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 340CE6B82F5 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 16:15:54 -0700 (PDT) :content-type:content-transfer-encoding:subject:message-id:date :to:mime-version; s=groupwbench.org; bh=Y3mCNDdfFsiPYu2vZVCqhQsw Z9w=; b=UmW4C/9KKOeTo42r890WVsYnkp6ueXfDVnp/KjT7G8tzmdHg+905reLy OIXGghjOtF988JswA0Opo2dwasuQgRu/lLmrtxZ0+aIVxSOdM0rwdKi/vJCxHVV/ v3u7L/lo2KuavuhEyNjDxEC1HFoXZ/I7SrRqYv7BbYwkqxLsjXI= Received: from jims-imac.home (pool-98-118-108-149.bstnma.fios.verizon.net [98.118.108.149]) (using TLSv1 with cipher AES128-SHA (128/128 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by homiemail-a52.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id DBA156B80E8 for ; Sat, 2 May 2015 16:15:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Date: Sat, 2 May 2015 19:15:51 -0400 To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Sealants for nylon gas tank? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I need to install new stainless steel quick disconnect fuel taps in a nylon gas tank. People have told me to use a lubricating sealant, since the insert in the tank will tear out before the threads (1/4 NPT) will seal. I tried pink teflon tape and I got it tight as I dared and it still leaked. These are 90 taps so I have to tighten them in 360 degree increments. I have 2 jars of sealant, that either say they're ok with nylon, or with gasoline, but none say both. Any ideas if any of the following will be ok? Rectorseal T plus 2 - "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced, PVC, CPVC, and ABS pipe." Rectorseal 5 - "ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and gases" and "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced and PVC pipe.Not recommended for use with ABS,CPVC pipe or oxygen, chlorine and other oxidizers" If not, what to use? An alternative is to pop a viton o-ring on the tap and seal it that way... thanks, _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 3 11:05:01 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 31B8D2584A1F for ; Sun, 3 May 2015 11:05:01 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B67F72580472 for ; Sun, 3 May 2015 11:03:34 -0600 (MDT) To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Sun, 3 May 2015 12:50:06 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/03/2015 12:50:07, Serialize complete at 05/03/2015 12:50:07 Subject: [Shop-talk] Problems with mower and oil light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I have a zero turn mower that has a 24HP Kolher motor. I use it to plow snow with no problems. I just tried to cut grass with it yesterday after not using the mower attachment for the past 10 years or so. After about 10 mins or so, the oil light comes on. When the engine is cold, the oil level is at the MAX level. If I drop the RPMs to idle, the light flickers off. Again, I don't have this problem when the mower is used in the winter. Do I need to change my oil weight? If so, to what? Or is there another problem I'm missing. The mower is a 80'v vintage Husler 275 and manuals are not available. Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 3 13:20:22 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E583025853FD for ; Sun, 3 May 2015 13:20:21 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.226]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 339FE2585022 for ; Sun, 3 May 2015 13:19:48 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [172.248.153.253] ([172.248.153.253:3500] helo=rypc) by cdptpa-oedge03 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id FF/59-19053-D4676455; Sun, 03 May 2015 19:26:06 +0000 From: "Randall" To: , Date: Sun, 3 May 2015 12:26:01 -0700 Thread-Index: AdCFxDANSUNWIY55S+upkwnaokevZgAEnpwg Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Problems with mower and oil light Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > If I drop the RPMs to idle, the > light flickers off. Since that is backwards to the way it usually works, I suspect the pressure sensor may be bad. Try temporarily connecting a real oil pressure gauge and see what it says. Also check to see the light doesn't come on with the sensor disconnected (meaning a short somewhere in the wiring). -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 4 07:41:59 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D4FFE2584E6C for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 07:41:59 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from p3plsmtpa08-01.prod.phx3.secureserver.net (p3plsmtpa08-01.prod.phx3.secureserver.net [173.201.193.102]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E088A258448F for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 07:41:49 -0600 (MDT) Received: from PatsOffice ([184.105.18.14]) by p3plsmtpa08-01.prod.phx3.secureserver.net with id Ppo71q00Q0JCzvc01po8NG; Mon, 04 May 2015 06:48:08 -0700 From: "Pat Horne" To: "'Jim Franklin'" , References: <10CFC38B-B319-46FC-B219-102830A3FC1F@groupwbench.org> Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 08:48:07 -0500 Thread-Index: AdCFLgTYywvvdqumQpKyzJTZ8PH9nABQOtFg Content-Language: en-us Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sealants for nylon gas tank? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Call Rectorseal's customer support and see what they have to say about their products that you already have on hand. I don't have any handy to check, but see if you can find a tube of Teflon pipe dope. The stuff I used about 10 years ago was for nylon. I was using water so didn't check for other fluid types. You could also contact Locktite, they should be able to tell you. Peace, Pat -----Original Message----- I need to install new stainless steel quick disconnect fuel taps in a nylon gas tank. People have told me to use a lubricating sealant, since the insert in the tank will tear out before the threads (1/4 NPT) will seal. I tried pink teflon tape and I got it tight as I dared and it still leaked. These are 90 taps so I have to tighten them in 360 degree increments. I have 2 jars of sealant, that either say they're ok with nylon, or with gasoline, but none say both. Any ideas if any of the following will be ok? Rectorseal T plus 2 - "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced, PVC, CPVC, and ABS pipe." Rectorseal 5 - "ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and gases" and "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced and PVC pipe.Not recommended for use with ABS,CPVC pipe or oxygen, chlorine and other oxidizers" _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 4 19:30:53 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EFE682585B25 for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 19:30:52 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a81.g.dreamhost.com (sub5.mail.dreamhost.com [208.113.200.129]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 12B722585A98 for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 19:30:43 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a81.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a81.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 84016A806E for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 18:37:02 -0700 (PDT) content-type:mime-version:subject:from:in-reply-to:date :content-transfer-encoding:message-id:references:to; s= groupwbench.org; bh=iTNZ1zvMbsERGyQPrpv9OWPUQvw=; b=XPo6a6dtnKth vM/0mLxA/jXTVd8GTkVW4s2Pir4hKqLQnc+R9UCAwh/gjiTy1qAlS/CMcTkAUO67 YKMFUgUfXricVWBhqcRwvU2nt2IlN5CK+FJs9CyAoZ/B9wYfOx0LZXJzNJioTO0X uBYLvXk8n8aBCmQEgv7z96D54J+LgYM= Received: from jims-imac.home (pool-98-118-108-149.bstnma.fios.verizon.net [98.118.108.149]) (using TLSv1 with cipher AES128-SHA (128/128 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by homiemail-a81.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 39F43A806C for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 18:37:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 21:37:00 -0400 References: <10CFC38B-B319-46FC-B219-102830A3FC1F@groupwbench.org> <01bf01d08670$f4123f00$dc36bd00$@com> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sealants for nylon gas tank? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net A friend sent me the link to the BMW upgrade kit, which includes a tube of Gasoila. I found a jar at my local Tractor Supply for $8. Specifically states compatibility with nylon, up to 20% ethanol gasoline, and steel. Probably very similar to what you're talking about: http://www.gasoila.com/products/pipe-thread-sealants/gasoila-soft-set-thread- sealant-with-ptfe.html/ jim On May 4, 2015, at 9:48 AM, Pat Horne wrote: > Call Rectorseal's customer support and see what they have to say about their > products that you already have on hand. I don't have any handy to check, but > see if you can find a tube of Teflon pipe dope. The stuff I used about 10 > years ago was for nylon. I was using water so didn't check for other fluid > types. You could also contact Locktite, they should be able to tell you. > > Peace, > Pat > > -----Original Message----- > > I need to install new stainless steel quick disconnect fuel taps in a nylon > gas tank. People have told me to use a lubricating sealant, since the insert > in the tank will tear out before the threads (1/4 NPT) will seal. I tried > pink teflon tape and I got it tight as I dared and it still leaked. These > are 90 taps so I have to tighten them in 360 degree increments. > > I have 2 jars of sealant, that either say they're ok with nylon, or with > gasoline, but none say both. Any ideas if any of the following will be ok? > > Rectorseal T plus 2 - "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, > iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass > reinforced, PVC, CPVC, and ABS pipe." > > Rectorseal 5 - "ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and > gases" > and "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, > aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced and PVC > pipe.Not recommended for use with ABS,CPVC pipe or oxygen, chlorine and > other oxidizers" _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 4 19:41:21 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 01D7D2585B12 for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 19:41:21 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qg0-f46.google.com (mail-qg0-f46.google.com [209.85.192.46]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8CE362585A98 for ; Mon, 4 May 2015 19:39:58 -0600 (MDT) Received: by qgfi89 with SMTP id i89so74827981qgf.1 for ; Mon, 04 May 2015 18:46:17 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:reply-to:in-reply-to:references:from:date:message-id :subject:to:content-type; bh=h6CyxIPdA0jvYLV3E4HQOoSQdD33uDN1JFD0KESGQoQ=; b=pFVytY76ii+35wn4pCMMlvucoZYtxGbPZ7eSnnw99EU+IV0g7j1n4lyIMtioyckcda e+81LPh/HJnVGs1FaeVG7cwuWgmOO9UAGTZbNTLfqVZx//YIY1JUAz2THe+YTODaTTUE u9JIrWIW1oCCL6iKJCvH+oIj+l2e+5yyVW38KFPMuefDUb+GyvCu8k9EFcTrDn9SPhTw O/i/rCkKcGKRWqZVk+PCzlkmxMZVQkPRc8yg1cWNdEKUfvJwENDc9XgqM9E3CWI5Y+XO 8aH/ZFtjOfC0hq44I7R+2ba7xZ+x9Zrn27GVR9Ms6j0XZlr4m38C8KpeCtKX7gK98LHx hPzQ== v17mr30217901qge.96.1430790377558; Mon, 04 May 2015 18:46:17 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.140.107.101 with HTTP; Mon, 4 May 2015 18:45:57 -0700 (PDT) References: <10CFC38B-B319-46FC-B219-102830A3FC1F@groupwbench.org> <01bf01d08670$f4123f00$dc36bd00$@com> <1B295D06-0529-47AE-87CF-FDC1C3B94F9D@groupwbench.org> From: RandE Date: Mon, 4 May 2015 20:45:57 -0500 To: ShopTalk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sealants for nylon gas tank? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net It's also available on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gasolia Randy On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 8:37 PM, Jim Franklin wrote: > A friend sent me the link to the BMW upgrade kit, which includes a tube of > Gasoila. I found a jar at my local Tractor Supply for $8. Specifically > states > compatibility with nylon, up to 20% ethanol gasoline, and steel. Probably > very > similar to what you're talking about: > > > http://www.gasoila.com/products/pipe-thread-sealants/gasoila-soft-set-thread- > sealant-with-ptfe.html/ > > jim > > On May 4, 2015, at 9:48 AM, Pat Horne wrote: > > > Call Rectorseal's customer support and see what they have to say about > their > > products that you already have on hand. I don't have any handy to check, > but > > see if you can find a tube of Teflon pipe dope. The stuff I used about 10 > > years ago was for nylon. I was using water so didn't check for other > fluid > > types. You could also contact Locktite, they should be able to tell you. > > > > Peace, > > Pat > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > I need to install new stainless steel quick disconnect fuel taps in a > nylon > > gas tank. People have told me to use a lubricating sealant, since the > insert > > in the tank will tear out before the threads (1/4 NPT) will seal. I tried > > pink teflon tape and I got it tight as I dared and it still leaked. These > > are 90 taps so I have to tighten them in 360 degree increments. > > > > I have 2 jars of sealant, that either say they're ok with nylon, or with > > gasoline, but none say both. Any ideas if any of the following will be > ok? > > > > Rectorseal T plus 2 - "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, > > iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass > > reinforced, PVC, CPVC, and ABS pipe." > > > > Rectorseal 5 - "ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and > > gases" > > and "Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, > copper, > > aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced and PVC > > pipe.Not recommended for use with ABS,CPVC pipe or oxygen, chlorine and > > other oxidizers" > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 9 17:54:57 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E9A842584C6E for ; Sat, 9 May 2015 17:54:56 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from itonami.pair.com (itonami.pair.com [209.68.2.178]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0BA6025843DC for ; Sat, 9 May 2015 17:32:08 -0600 (MDT) Received: by itonami.pair.com (Postfix, from userid 3198) id 160158FC13; Sat, 9 May 2015 19:38:31 -0400 (EDT) Received: from localhost (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by itonami.pair.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 156FD8FC12 for ; Sat, 9 May 2015 19:38:31 -0400 (EDT) Date: Sat, 9 May 2015 19:38:31 -0400 (EDT) From: David Hillman To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14) Subject: [Shop-talk] Trailer tongue box made for wiring? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net { Shop content: I use my trailer to haul shit to and from my shop. ] Does anyone make a trailer tongue box that is designed for having wiring run through it? Or do I just have to drill holes and find some grommets myself? I have a 20' enclosed car hauler. I'm rewiring quite a bit of it. Since I only really use it in the winter, in slush and snow and whatnot, weather-proofing is important to me. Right now, it just has a little plastic box mounted to one of the tongue members, which holds a small battery. That box has holes in it for wires to enter and exit, so it doesn't stay dry inside. This is poor design, IMO. I want to put a tongue box on it, and run the 12v wiring from my truck into that. Also want to put a full-size battery in there, and a distribution block. My preferred choice would be to find such a box on the market. Second choice is, buy a standard one and modify it. 3rd choice, make from scratch. I really don't have time to make it from scratch, though, as I just decided to make my own tire rack for the interior ( among a million other ongoing projects ). Thanks. -- David Hillman _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 06:56:29 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B474A25849C7 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:56:29 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 76396258449C for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:49:40 -0600 (MDT) To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 08:36:02 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/11/2015 08:36:04, Serialize complete at 05/11/2015 08:36:04 Subject: [Shop-talk] tripod mower traction issue. (I'm fixing it in my shop!) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net OK, I know that there is someone here that can come up with the solution to this weird issue. I have a zero turn tripod mower (here is a photo of it with the snow plow on it... ) (This one is actually mine.) http://tinyurl.com/m38436w Here is another photo of how the deck mounts to it (This is a stock image, but it shows how the mower is mounted.) http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?140401/AY9842 Now, the problem is the traction. It is unacceptable. I've tried ag and bar tires, with and without snowchains. The mower barely can go up inclines and often ends up sliding sideways once it loses traction. Here is the bugger of the issue, It will climb up the steepest of my hills, IN REVERSE. So, I know this is a problem with the weighting or something. The unit has the ability to add or remove weight over the rear 'tripod' wheel. I've tried it with and without weight with limited success. Can anyone explain why it can go in reverse up a hill but not in forward? (and yes, the bar tires were mounted in the proper direction.) Is there something I can do to fix this issue? More or less weight in the rear, or elsewhere? Is there a tire out there with spikes in it or something? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance. (I haven't had to mow for over 12 years and now I have to again since my tenant that had a landscaping business moved out.) 8>( Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 07:11:31 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 482002584A0B for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:11:31 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ig0-f182.google.com (mail-ig0-f182.google.com [209.85.213.182]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AE94A2580270 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:07:04 -0600 (MDT) Received: by igbyr2 with SMTP id yr2so69162338igb.0 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:13:28 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :cc:content-type; bh=DqHRoVk4NTeSm4UzIvY5G6BP3rFsZDR1qxC0/k8w14s=; b=AVKEP/8za3IlgSr3EbcFpEt0ZbD4e1C119/sqo1Xn0FmeVp64JPjX1UjbEr8InV/Jr rzaOoJgips3LaeREBT431cnEjqACvjuNXMXDZAuMktHJ8PlNJSFksSQfG16/oafPI1gF KCRp55/msiBcH9ilRHSmUGb7/Esknnr2lXBlrwszM1D4YFxP2esK+LGvsvBEcdnnEZz/ rN1BOpQlKxEjK20azWAmBk5kX+8mLO91hh42/tOMOZCQ6ifAXSEsf1U5NEU0m6FgvOr8 2au0xZFFlyNPN7+n6Ce+oSCiDJzBiJ3krHn7I0zo8/d8bjhNqZJw2upsOeNy8YU0NlwB gvkQ== jx3mr10486423icc.63.1431350008403; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:13:28 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.68.73 with HTTP; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:13:28 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 09:13:28 -0400 From: Jeff Scarbrough To: eric@megageek.com Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tripod mower traction issue. (I'm fixing it in my shop!) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Your problem seems to be center of gravity. I assume the mower is sprung, and not rigidly mounted? Going uphill backwards, the engine weight shifts over the drive wheels - Frontwards, the mower weight should hold it, but maybe it's counterbalanced by the engine weight? Meanwhile, I've attached a photo of the Hustler sprayer we had at work for a while. That was a fun ride. Never tried it on a hill, though. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 8:36 AM, wrote: > OK, I know that there is someone here that can come up with the solution > to this weird issue. > > I have a zero turn tripod mower (here is a photo of it with the snow plow > on it... ) (This one is actually mine.) > http://tinyurl.com/m38436w > > Here is another photo of how the deck mounts to it (This is a stock > image, but it shows how the mower is mounted.) > > http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?140401/AY9842 > > Now, the problem is the traction. It is unacceptable. I've tried ag and > bar tires, with and without snowchains. The mower barely can go up > inclines and often ends up sliding sideways once it loses traction. > > Here is the bugger of the issue, It will climb up the steepest of my > hills, IN REVERSE. So, I know this is a problem with the weighting or > something. > > The unit has the ability to add or remove weight over the rear 'tripod' > wheel. I've tried it with and without weight with limited success. > > Can anyone explain why it can go in reverse up a hill but not in forward? > (and yes, the bar tires were mounted in the proper direction.) > > Is there something I can do to fix this issue? More or less weight in > the rear, or elsewhere? Is there a tire out there with spikes in it or > something? > > Any other suggestions? > > Thanks in advance. (I haven't had to mow for over 12 years and now I have > to again since my tenant that had a landscaping business moved out.) 8>( > > > Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of hustler_sprayer.jpg] _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 07:56:48 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E28D6258464F for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:56:48 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qc0-f169.google.com (mail-qc0-f169.google.com [209.85.216.169]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 46D9C2580270 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:53:32 -0600 (MDT) Received: by qcvo8 with SMTP id o8so45318274qcv.0 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:59:56 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :cc:content-type; bh=vokTQzvuYL8Gmj1P3a6ccGOaoOKjYAI/OE/zlShQ2NI=; b=zWWafOl9mHSwTaVZLM3LtL4EunvJTQvWQBIIEaADU4xptDW5Xq2/m6+lOsEsu+r/qb cVAlZbbohPHI8ApnRGz6qr7PPQm1kGmusz8UhGP/A5xMZsP0CvlYvZ4QPAQ3E2x7VIfx d05WanErFRyNfI+Hdq/mtMWAWhqU3VVOAberMc+jZuo/uSY/8yhp0QR4y4XLkrMiUtEV uy2W1eXTU4+F1TtnFLuXZ3Nlx7q7N9iOgrgt8sBkCqel2vj9mz9jqcH3v8yBUIz1+Rwr O2W5TJYXjZD4LAQj81/cLyHOkwac3QW+AtcaSYbq67nIsqA6uzR5yBXBBLiGtKSYuFbh kHyA== d36mr22371992qkh.79.1431352796104; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:59:56 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.96.181.1 with HTTP; Mon, 11 May 2015 06:59:56 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 08:59:56 -0500 From: John Innis To: eric@megageek.com Cc: shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tripod mower traction issue. (I'm fixing it in my shop!) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net That mower looks a lot like a Grasshopper design. Not sure if it is a re-braneded Grasshopper or just a similar design, but on my mower there is a "traction kit" that transfers some of the deck weight to the drive wheels. Ir works similar to the way a weight distributing hitch works on a truck. A series of arms, chains and springs lift the deck from a pivot point near the drive wheels. Here is a link to the system from grasshopper. You might be able to adapt their system or invent your own. http://www.the-mower-shop-inc.com/718k-720k-725k_1997_traction_kit.aspx The bracket (#2 in the figure) is mounted just in front of the drive wheels. The lever arm is pulled be the spring from the rear and attached to the deck via the chain at the front. This figure shows the version for the smaller decks. FOr larger decks the system is upgraded as shown here: http://www.the-mower-shop-inc.com/9861_2001_traction_kit_adapter.aspx Hope this helps! On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 7:36 AM, wrote: > OK, I know that there is someone here that can come up with the solution > to this weird issue. > > I have a zero turn tripod mower (here is a photo of it with the snow plow > on it... ) (This one is actually mine.) > http://tinyurl.com/m38436w > > Here is another photo of how the deck mounts to it (This is a stock > image, but it shows how the mower is mounted.) > > http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?140401/AY9842 > > Now, the problem is the traction. It is unacceptable. I've tried ag and > bar tires, with and without snowchains. The mower barely can go up > inclines and often ends up sliding sideways once it loses traction. > > Here is the bugger of the issue, It will climb up the steepest of my > hills, IN REVERSE. So, I know this is a problem with the weighting or > something. > > The unit has the ability to add or remove weight over the rear 'tripod' > wheel. I've tried it with and without weight with limited success. > > Can anyone explain why it can go in reverse up a hill but not in forward? > (and yes, the bar tires were mounted in the proper direction.) > > Is there something I can do to fix this issue? More or less weight in > the rear, or elsewhere? Is there a tire out there with spikes in it or > something? > > Any other suggestions? > > Thanks in advance. (I haven't had to mow for over 12 years and now I have > to again since my tenant that had a landscaping business moved out.) 8>( > > > Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. > Eric P > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph > Waldo Emerson > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 08:12:00 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 345CF25845F0 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:12:00 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qc0-f179.google.com (mail-qc0-f179.google.com [209.85.216.179]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D133325801A0 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:06:16 -0600 (MDT) Received: by qcbgu10 with SMTP id gu10so69283068qcb.2 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:12:40 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type; bh=S3iAowV1hVUOKXdZPlH+r3sjqKEpuOI/bV9HogwvBz0=; b=ECzm4veXYBdFsi8+udr24+R9H7kCkVjp0/zkkMdB6edl2P3oomn4uII4/43K4qnEQ3 QiawJ4x01WUJBDHQLve9CDukPgpxMyKM8tYZxC735CIQxCVb17VP26HclnoP+EpVofHU 21fsgqHH4xf8FTWpp2dezNIHYf/DJI2LRDH4dbLngdedbTvrFyHjtwGVtM2tE5cAs4/r Z68VnFC0be60qrElrEwsa0kUEC09PYBMpAR/GzFrZK7CnK30tNB1VnT7IIRj+PEohk5u f6N0R6pBHyrzFTT+uJXsOlai7xK/BcLinJ2JG5h/5+tis5xIKGILKtQdcVHf/VvBeGf1 5c7g== g65mr14294943qhc.96.1431353560482; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:12:40 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.96.181.1 with HTTP; Mon, 11 May 2015 07:12:40 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 09:12:40 -0500 From: John Innis To: shop-talk Subject: [Shop-talk] must be mowing season Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Because the grass is tall, my mower is acting up and shop talk is flooded with mower questions! Saturday we a rare dry day and I was trying to get ahead of the grass. Got almost done when the mower started acting up. The mower is a circa 2000 Grasshopper 725K will less than 700 hours on is since new. This unit has twin "Gemini" (Eaton) hydrostat units, one for each drive wheel. The left side is working great, but the right side is running VERY slow in forward. It seems ok in reverse, but with the drive controls all the way forward, the left side is going MUCH faster than the right. Traveling in a straight line with the right control all the way forward, the tractor speed a much slower than it has been in the past. I checked the linkages, adjusted the neutral point, checked the hydro fluid and brakes, and found no issues. Fluid is full, belts are in good shape with no evidence of slipping. I lifted the frame up and confirmed that the speed difference occurs even if there is no load on the wheels. New filters and belts are on order, and will be installed with new fluid when they arrive, but I suspect they won't solve this issue. The thing that is bugging me it that the transmission seems ok in reverse, so likely not a clogged filter or slipping belt issue. Also seems like it's not a pump or motor problem, as one of these being weak would likely be weak in both directions. I have been warned that tearing this hydro down is not a job for a the home mechanic, but even if I get brave, I'm not sure where to look. This unit doesn't work anything like the hydros I have serviced in the past. Anyone on the list have any ideas or helpful troubleshooting tips? John Innis Cedar Rapids, IA -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 08:27:11 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B335525844CE for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:27:11 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6A46A2580428 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:27:03 -0600 (MDT) To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 10:13:23 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/11/2015 10:13:27, Serialize complete at 05/11/2015 10:13:27 Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: must be mowing season Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net John asks about his mower's 'uneven' speed. John, I'm not a hydro guy, but it seems like this would be the drive motor. (I would also look at the throttle linkage for both sides, but you said you checked that.) The motor is the only thing that would be single sided. I've also heard that they are not for shadetree repair. (but I've also heard they rarely go bad since they are constantly lubricated.) I know that's not much help, but I would try to put pressure gauges on the feed lines for both drive motors. If they are the same, you have a bad drive mower. Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 09:44:06 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AF88325846BD for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 09:44:06 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-pd0-f179.google.com (mail-pd0-f179.google.com [209.85.192.179]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EEC902580219 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 09:43:56 -0600 (MDT) Received: by pdbnk13 with SMTP id nk13so149475535pdb.0 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:50:20 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type; bh=abbH/3Erq82UIoZ9FoMb6lFvzra3pk5kdwXSSBkYCI0=; b=wVB8w61eYb57zp8YJASaUOOJZyo7YkM7zYTJcPpQtnkDvtVX1AlN0Ys7CIaL57UyBQ vUGc4beVU8+aQ5OqMMu6weN4NCMxWZ+l8gasEkKq4c+8DLeqRZUfUMpu9EzhHZEHNXvK ulUsqRrqHS0m7WnppIuiLqvs8ru3fgB2o9KDLi1bCfSRcMbMbCaXMBCw6BbSAunSTg+A FV3GQrFOhc2oLShQc8JIOJCG0s8tUTEf2JGXwjHbmm1859c2Qepj6Fq0zXYdkP42qTnP CLLLN0OnOinWMsuNRCNaz7IVeyuK5Z7v5xjrUA5tRwkekk0kzdLwCBB+4FIvOMmQJtrG 5ydg== ey12mr20530148pad.67.1431359420391; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:50:20 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.70.17.98 with HTTP; Mon, 11 May 2015 08:50:20 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 11:50:20 -0400 From: Brad Kahler To: Shop Talk List Subject: [Shop-talk] Definitely mowing season :) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Since we're talking about mowing.... I use a commercial Scag Tiger 60" ZTR and mow about 3+ acres once a week. The problem I have is the suspension or should I say lack of suspension on the Scag. On flat ground with no bumps the Scag is a joy to use. Unfortunately my property is riddled with crayfish mounds. These mounds are anywhere from 4" tall to 10" tall and once they dry turn into rocks. Hitting these "rocks" on a ZTR without suspension is a bone jarring experience. If the picture I attached comes through the mail server you'll see a lot of brown spots. Each of those spots is or was a crayfish mound. If I hit them when they are fresh they get squished down semi-flat. If they have a chance to dry out they turn into rocks. I've had the front wheels bounce as much as 6" off the ground after hitting one of these mounds. I feel like I've been in a prize fight with Joe Lewis after a mowing session. The Scag seat is what Scag calls a suspension seat however it doesn't really do anything that I've been able to tell. I seem to feel every bump and dip very clearly. After looking at my Kubota tractor seat/suspension setup which works fairly well I found a similar setup on ebay for ZTRs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171732997299?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Anybody have one of these on their mowers? I've seen mixed reviews online. The only downside is it seems to raise the seat about 1.75" to 2.75". I'm not sure if that would be an issue for me or not. Thanks! Brad [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of crawfish-mounds.jpg] _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 11 09:58:22 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AE74725848E7 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 09:58:22 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.227]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6CDBE25844A5 for ; Mon, 11 May 2015 09:58:16 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [172.248.153.253] ([172.248.153.253:2888] helo=rypc) by cdptpa-oedge03 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id 48/05-02733-713D0555; Mon, 11 May 2015 16:04:40 +0000 From: "Randall" To: Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 09:04:33 -0700 Thread-Index: AdCL6tXXkcahqBUATyWRYY9cHe8ZfAAGCmRA Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tripod mower traction issue. (I'm fixing it in my shop!) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > Here is the bugger of the issue, It will climb up the > steepest of my > hills, IN REVERSE. So, I know this is a problem with the > weighting or > something. > > The unit has the ability to add or remove weight over the > rear 'tripod' > wheel. I've tried it with and without weight with limited success. You need more weight on the drive wheels, not at the rear. When going uphill forward, the weight of the engine (and you) gets transferred to the rear wheel and lets the front ones slip. One alternative might be to partially fill them with water (plus antifreeze) or something like this http://www.rimguard.biz/ I'm not sure if that would be enough, but it might be a cheap experiment to see if it improves the situation. You should be able to find the adapter to connect a garden hose at Tractor Supply or similar. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 12 13:40:11 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D22E92584573 for ; Tue, 12 May 2015 13:40:11 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from itonami.pair.com (itonami.pair.com [209.68.2.178]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 75B3F2585AB6 for ; Tue, 12 May 2015 13:15:06 -0600 (MDT) Received: by itonami.pair.com (Postfix, from userid 3198) id B3F9F8FF18; Tue, 12 May 2015 15:21:30 -0400 (EDT) Received: from localhost (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by itonami.pair.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id AF0F38FC0E; Tue, 12 May 2015 15:21:30 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 12 May 2015 15:21:30 -0400 (EDT) From: David Hillman To: eric@megageek.com References: User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14) Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tripod mower traction issue. (I'm fixing it in my shop!) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net On Mon, 11 May 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote: > Can anyone explain why it can go in reverse up a hill but not in forward? > (and yes, the bar tires were mounted in the proper direction.) As previously noted, weight transfer to the undriven wheel. > Is there something I can do to fix this issue? More or less weight in > the rear, or elsewhere? Is there a tire out there with spikes in it or > something? If anything, add weight to the front, not the rear. I have no idea if there are off-the-shelf spike tires available, but they are easy enough to make, especially for low-speed operation. We make tires for ice-racing all the time, and they see far more abuse than anything that plowmower could dish out ( ie, 100mph, 1+ lateral G ). The only problem might be if you are plowing asphalt that is in good shape, and you'd like to keep it that way. Metal tires might leave some marks. -- David Hillman _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 15 16:29:06 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7D72A2584C6D for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 16:29:06 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC2S37.hotmail.com (blu004-omc2s37.hotmail.com [65.55.111.112]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C8A592584787 for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 16:25:16 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU180-W50 ([65.55.111.73]) by BLU004-OMC2S37.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22751); Fri, 15 May 2015 15:31:43 -0700 From: "Tim ." To: Shop Talk Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 17:31:43 -0500 FILETIME=[EBA325E0:01D08F5E] Subject: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Hi All, I am trying to keep my SHOP truck alive. It is a 96 Chevy S10 with the 4.3l V6. It has right around 200K miles and was tired but running good before what we believe is a fuel pump failure. Living in the rust belt (WI) it is VERY RUSTY having been a daily driver since I got it back in '99. I have to assume that if and when I drop the fuel tank that I am going to find that the tank will need to be replaced as well as the fuel pump and sending unit. I know that all the hard lines are very crusty as well with one already having been "patched" with high pressure rubber line. What I am wondering is if is there is any chance of my putting a fuel tank in the bed of the truck and running that way? Can I run just a fuel line from the tank to the engine or do I absolutely have to have a return line? If I have to start replacing with stock parts, it will quickly add up to more than the truck is worth. This truck will be driven very few miles; less than 50 a month if even that. Also, does anyone have a source for long lengths of high pressure fuel (rubber) hose? All I've been able to find is short bits. Thanks for any and all advice! tim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 15 17:05:36 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E7E38258527F for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 17:05:35 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from cdptpa-oedge-vip.email.rr.com (cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.229]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 90D0E2584819 for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 17:05:29 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [172.248.153.253] ([172.248.153.253:2559] helo=rypc) by cdptpa-oedge03 (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.0.35861 r(Momo-dev:tip)) with ESMTP id 48/D7-14238-B3D76555; Fri, 15 May 2015 23:11:56 +0000 From: "Randall" To: "'Tim .'" , "'Shop Talk'" Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 16:11:53 -0700 Thread-Index: AdCPX31DWx8weDHvRbOX3CIfRJEnvwAA2ZXg Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > I have to assume > that if and when I drop the fuel tank that I am going to find > that the tank > will need to be replaced as well as the fuel pump and sending > unit. You might want to check first. My 95 Buick wagon has a plastic fuel tank that cannot rust. The strap and bolt that hold it in place could certainly rust away, but they are easily replaced. > What I am wondering is if is there is any chance of my > putting a fuel tank in > the bed of the truck and running that way? Should work, but perhaps not legal. > Can I run just a > fuel line from the > tank to the engine or do I absolutely have to have a return > line? The return line is necessary. But it's just another line and not even high pressure. > Also, does anyone have a source for long lengths of high pressure fuel > (rubber) hose? All I've been able to find is short bits. Summit Racing has it in 25 ft lengths. But if you are trying to do this on the cheap, you may find it cheaper to use hard line as much as you can, and soft line just to link the sections together. Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 15 17:19:12 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 30A6E2585395 for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 17:19:12 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qk0-f181.google.com (mail-qk0-f181.google.com [209.85.220.181]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 133F5258047C for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 17:19:03 -0600 (MDT) Received: by qkgw4 with SMTP id w4so40180268qkg.3 for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 16:25:29 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=bwz9Zd1Q//FzO93IZXDrM2Z1oKD2/GnCxZOF2oYnVa8=; b=aPgB41hVJbm7gCbVNacbAHgL5lckslpfBUioAuvwR8uXgeQ2F2NJu99mmdYknJIT1y C4DmcMdj2RmWAFWjPKwFSTziyA9fUr5YoXEXsMUWvJ7gjCe+NAvggB2JS+xhqFnHrce9 Cr/ygzkao3shNyWil6S5bqmNfySD8C984WNFWMLaMSxjAflTA1AxTXD9svvomENnttR9 CYM7RjY6+Q+gtkQC2h56fB+SX+UI/KmTxHH80fAyoHrzHUOLJgAs3hdFqbGTk5+WgYux du5m5lC4UpZHI+gz+bxOmEv3F4kM1BbtjNMlFMLw9GsSHimo34D6WB/21ZOzc61enko2 hn7Q== 142mr16420973qhg.100.1431732329645; Fri, 15 May 2015 16:25:29 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.96.169.99 with HTTP; Fri, 15 May 2015 16:25:29 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 18:25:29 -0500 From: John Innis To: shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] must be mowing season Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Well I figured out my problem, some additional troubleshooting showed that the right side hydro unit (combined pump and motor) was running slow. Input speed was the same at 3300 RPM on both sides but the right side maxed out at 70RPM output where the left was over 100RPM. Changed filters and fluid and checked the hoses. Found nothing. Pulled the transmission. Eventually got the transmission open and found the the pump cam ring cracked. Never seen one break like this. Parts on order, meanwhile the grass continues to grow.... On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 9:12 AM, John Innis wrote: > Because the grass is tall, my mower is acting up and shop talk is flooded > with mower questions! > > Saturday we a rare dry day and I was trying to get ahead of the grass. > Got almost done when the mower started acting up. > > The mower is a circa 2000 Grasshopper 725K will less than 700 hours on is > since new. This unit has twin "Gemini" (Eaton) hydrostat units, one for > each drive wheel. > > The left side is working great, but the right side is running VERY slow in > forward. It seems ok in reverse, but with the drive controls all the way > forward, the left side is going MUCH faster than the right. Traveling in a > straight line with the right control all the way forward, the tractor speed > a much slower than it has been in the past. > > I checked the linkages, adjusted the neutral point, checked the hydro > fluid and brakes, and found no issues. Fluid is full, belts are in good > shape with no evidence of slipping. I lifted the frame up and confirmed > that the speed difference occurs even if there is no load on the wheels. > > New filters and belts are on order, and will be installed with new fluid > when they arrive, but I suspect they won't solve this issue. The thing > that is bugging me it that the transmission seems ok in reverse, so likely > not a clogged filter or slipping belt issue. Also seems like it's not a > pump or motor problem, as one of these being weak would likely be weak in > both directions. > > I have been warned that tearing this hydro down is not a job for a the > home mechanic, but even if I get brave, I'm not sure where to look. This > unit doesn't work anything like the hydros I have serviced in the past. > Anyone on the list have any ideas or helpful troubleshooting tips? > > John Innis > Cedar Rapids, IA > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_4027.JPG] _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Fri May 15 17:45:11 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EA13425853A6 for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 17:45:10 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail.milleredp.com (fw.milleredp.com [198.144.208.110]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 785F22585035 for ; Fri, 15 May 2015 17:44:27 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [10.1.2.100] ([::ffff:10.1.2.100]) (AUTH: PLAIN jem, TLS: TLSv1/SSLv3,128bits,AES128-SHA) by mail.milleredp.com with ESMTPSA; Fri, 15 May 2015 16:50:53 -0700 id 00000000002800AD.000000005556865D.000075D9 Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 16:50:49 -0700 From: John Miller User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.6.0 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net References: <48.D7.14238.B3D76555@cdptpa-oedge03> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > You might want to check first. My 95 Buick wagon has a plastic fuel > tank that cannot rust. The strap and bolt that hold it in place > could certainly rust away, but they are easily replaced. Rockauto shows replacement tanks - steel - for $80. Mind you, that's plus shipping, so compare that vis-a-vis this: http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-GM16B-Fuel-Tank/dp/B000C7W1VC $93 shipped free if you've got Amazon Prime. If it's rusty underneath you can bet the fuel lines are shot, if you can run it in a reasonably protected location I'd just use some of the nylon fuel line to replace them. You'll need various adapter fittings to connect it to the filter, etc. >> Also, does anyone have a source for long lengths of high pressure >> fuel (rubber) hose? All I've been able to find is short bits. You don't really want to use the 30R7 hose in long lengths, it's expensive, much fatter than the nylon, etc. > Summit Racing has it in 25 ft lengths. > I've managed to find a couple open-box 25ft coils on Amazon's Warehouse Deals (which, like Rockauto's wholesaler clearance stuff, is a crap-shoot, sometimes it's great stuff in a scuffed-up box and sometimes it's mislabeled, misboxed, or installed-damaged-and-returned stuff that proves to be useless.) John. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 16 04:33:20 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8F67C2584C1D for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 04:33:20 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 44F17258494A for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 04:31:48 -0600 (MDT) References: To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 06:18:23 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/16/2015 06:18:07, Serialize complete at 05/16/2015 06:18:07 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net One other idea is to cut the floor of the pick up above the tank sending units. This gives you free access to the tank, without having to remove it. You may be able to just replace pump without having to replace anything else. Here is just one of many utubes videos on this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2aEAeUNVLU Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 16 05:37:31 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3345C2584F1B for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 05:37:31 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ie0-f169.google.com (mail-ie0-f169.google.com [209.85.223.169]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 06B4D2584706 for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 05:37:24 -0600 (MDT) Received: by iepk2 with SMTP id k2so140736482iep.3 for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 04:43:51 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:cc :content-type; bh=anfycuE2WaaWsXn09SJgIxqby5mtA+1XocPyQx5rDKk=; b=CPrIDxlllussw1Hy6m9jWh61asqn3fZ76LcVMYdZ+B2KAplJqeF9HK+gA9S+OHTGZK xApFK/JNEvVHJihtaD+8LAm7J/PcVcjDhwKk4di0MMaOWJpm7XSzn5z5Gj2UxP4jcKgc A/9xcWgqsYUHVrt6MlTFyX3pr3dZAEL5NpPa6Avg5fbPcOfwXjC8TOoFG5Z6+3A0fk5G JMAdqgiAroCQCHT0ANegQF/hl/O1frK3wmxvUuDy4R9GNaqb9/8ezcX+4/6BR6POwA1g NZ/Gu471ADIadQkOLUSA8DNu51e8NAv8CVgRpxJsCjM6DfyF+cVcy7i7m0pM+mik6F7N Mpgw== Sat, 16 May 2015 04:43:51 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.68.73 with HTTP; Sat, 16 May 2015 04:43:51 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 07:43:51 -0400 From: Jeff Scarbrough Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 6:18 AM, wrote: > One other idea is to cut the floor of the pick up above the tank sending > units. This gives you free access to the tank, without having to remove > it. You may be able to just replace pump without having to replace > anything else. Wouldn't it be easier to unbolt the bed and raise it up to get to the tank? _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 16 07:04:21 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C003525851ED for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 07:04:21 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B526A2580256 for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 07:03:57 -0600 (MDT) References: To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 08:50:33 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/16/2015 08:50:16, Serialize complete at 05/16/2015 08:50:16 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Jeff asks... >Wouldn't it be easier to unbolt the bed and raise it up to get to the tank? For some. I raised the bed a few years ago when I did this. But for people without lifts, tractors, or other big things that make heavy things go up, this is pretty quick. 8>) Plus, if the truck is very rusty (like noted) taking the bed off might be another case where you end up replacing other items as you try to remove it. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sat May 16 10:58:00 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3A70525845DF for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 10:58:00 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail.milleredp.com (fw.milleredp.com [198.144.208.110]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C6C3F258029F for ; Sat, 16 May 2015 10:57:48 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [10.1.2.100] ([::ffff:10.1.2.100]) (AUTH: PLAIN jem, TLS: TLSv1/SSLv3,128bits,AES128-SHA) by mail.milleredp.com with ESMTPSA; Sat, 16 May 2015 10:04:15 -0700 id 00000000002800AD.000000005557788F.00003608 Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 10:04:11 -0700 From: John Miller User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.6.0 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net References: Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net > Plus, if the truck is very rusty (like noted) taking the bed off might be > another case where you end up replacing other items as you try to remove > it. > Yeah if it's a rustbucket of limited future potential then you want to disturb as little as possible, lest you end up having to drill out lots of bolts and fabricate lots of new brackets. It's a truck, and it looks like the tank's in the rear, so ramps or a couple jackstands should provide enough clearance. I would eyeball the retaining straps carefully, soak all the hardware in your penetrating oil of choice (me it's the 50/50 ATF/acetone mix), and maybe source a couple new mounting straps just in case it proves easiest just to cut the buggers and deal with the stubs left once the tank is out. John. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 17 12:33:17 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 65A6425846CD for ; Sun, 17 May 2015 12:33:17 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a59.g.dreamhost.com (sub5.mail.dreamhost.com [208.113.200.129]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8B02A2584493 for ; Sun, 17 May 2015 12:33:09 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a59.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a59.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 11FB856405C; Sun, 17 May 2015 11:39:37 -0700 (PDT) :content-type:content-transfer-encoding:subject:date:message-id :cc:to:mime-version; s=groupwbench.org; bh=0Kdk90DawlOuCy2cwvEtD WqPrQE=; b=WI00spN/GLECPWih2/bnLo4tE574ERkWfQqOIeQLSip38X37nsZv7 YEW6zAEJ3PJbwFwDX33T00NTS4GiO8l7TGV7Rf6+jKHWt2UAqZ0XzHOIhtbIo/vP /IW0NhnltRKUY0un7VaMKCBhZQkK2fspR7BOPlc6jZbtBKdDWLAtp4= Received: from jims-imac.home (pool-98-118-108-149.bstnma.fios.verizon.net [98.118.108.149]) (using TLSv1 with cipher AES128-SHA (128/128 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by homiemail-a59.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 74697564057; Sun, 17 May 2015 11:39:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 14:39:35 -0400 To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net Cc: KVacek@Ameritech.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an admin in the house? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sorry for the non-shop talk. Our buddy Karl Vacek stopped getting list mail a few months ago, can't seem to get back on, can't find an email for Mark, and Roger's bounced. Can someone help him out? I've Cc'd him here. thanks, _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 08:17:15 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 70457258578D for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 08:17:15 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from BLU004-OMC2S8.hotmail.com (blu004-omc2s8.hotmail.com [65.55.111.83]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A5D4F2584529 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 08:17:02 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BLU180-W37 ([65.55.111.72]) by BLU004-OMC2S8.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22751); Mon, 18 May 2015 07:23:31 -0700 From: "Tim ." To: Shop Talk Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 09:23:31 -0500 References: FILETIME=[3768FC20:01D09176] Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] alternatives? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Loads of great suggestions. Too many to address individually actually. I especially like, though, the idea of cutting the bed to access the top of the tank. If I don't have to disturb any of the crusty lines to access the sender that will save me loads of headaches. Thanks guys. You are all a great resource for guys like me who don't really (yet) know how to deal with stuff like this. tim > From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com > To: shop-talk@autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 15 May 2015 17:31:43 -0500 > Subject: [Shop-talk] alternatives? > > Hi All, > > I am trying to keep my SHOP truck alive. It is a 96 Chevy S10 with the 4.3l > V6. It has right around 200K miles and was tired but running good before what > we believe is a fuel pump failure. Living in the rust belt (WI) it is VERY > RUSTY having been a daily driver since I got it back in '99. I have to assume > that if and when I drop the fuel tank that I am going to find that the tank > will need to be replaced as well as the fuel pump and sending unit. I know > that all the hard lines are very crusty as well with one already having been > "patched" with high pressure rubber line. > > What I am wondering is if is there is any chance of my putting a fuel tank in > the bed of the truck and running that way? Can I run just a fuel line from the > tank to the engine or do I absolutely have to have a return line? If I have to > start replacing with stock parts, it will quickly add up to more than the > truck is worth. This truck will be driven very few miles; less than 50 a month > if even that. > > Also, does anyone have a source for long lengths of high pressure fuel > (rubber) hose? All I've been able to find is short bits. > > Thanks for any and all advice! > tim > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 09:06:11 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CC2B02585ABE for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 09:06:11 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from dogbert2.mail.megageek.com (nj-69-34-94-16.sta.embarqhsd.net [69.34.94.16]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4AEFC2585A68 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 09:06:01 -0600 (MDT) To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net From: eric@megageek.com Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 10:52:18 -0400 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/18/2015 10:52:17, Serialize complete at 05/18/2015 10:52:17 Subject: [Shop-talk] tripod mower traction issue. (I'm fixing it in my shop!) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I just want to follow up with my problem with no traction. Turns out, that John Innis was the winner! There are two pegs on the mower and deck on each side. Adding springs to them completely changed the traction issue! It was too easy. (I'm still awed by how it even COULD affect the traction, but it does.) So, thanks a ton to John and to everyone at my favorite place to get the real answers! (don't worry, I'm having other issues with this mower, so I'll be asking more questions if I can't find the answers on my own.) Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. Eric P "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 12:53:48 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A47972585F6E for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:53:48 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a42.g.dreamhost.com (sub5.mail.dreamhost.com [208.113.200.129]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F23602585F1E for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:53:40 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a42.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a42.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3681768C06B for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:00:09 -0700 (PDT) :content-type:content-transfer-encoding:subject:message-id:date :to:mime-version; s=groupwbench.org; bh=PBvfaso6+/ompDsilTYQ4nOP KhQ=; b=X3L/yU0tXg83KpDb2FqYd9Q5bRT1yIg9Eypy6wLxaTK1AoyEvUErvg+f qVdZWUlgU3pn0+WurkIyB52C2nDhQpAxFzB0dVHOv57Sy/Aq57SCjstbI4kPXlVs aGPR5azcIWEK8EM8p//qtewz0G8oPzZZS/JyAv9GgsjxLvQLz2s= Received: from jims-imac.home (pool-98-118-108-149.bstnma.fios.verizon.net [98.118.108.149]) (using TLSv1 with cipher AES128-SHA (128/128 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by homiemail-a42.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id BC44D68C05B for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:00:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:00:07 -0400 To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I decided to go with 2x8s as my trailer deck, but having an abrupt edge would make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match the deployed ramp, about 60 degrees (relative to the butt end). My circular, table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw. Any ideas on how to get over to 60? There are 8 boards, so things like belt sanding from a 45, or using a capricious hand saw are a last resort :-) _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 14:01:08 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 21D9C25863E8 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 14:01:08 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from walmailout03.yourhostingaccount.com (walmailout03.yourhostingaccount.com [65.254.253.145]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DEACF2586017 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 13:35:22 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mailscan05.yourhostingaccount.com ([10.1.15.5] helo=walmailscan05.yourhostingaccount.com) by walmailout03.yourhostingaccount.com with esmtp (Exim) id 1YuQQz-0006ky-GC for shop-talk@autox.team.net; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:41 -0400 Received: from [10.114.3.31] (helo=walimpout11) by walmailscan05.yourhostingaccount.com with esmtp (Exim) id 1YuQQz-0004s6-DJ for shop-talk@autox.team.net; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:41 -0400 Received: from walwebmail13.yourhostingaccount.com ([10.1.16.13]) by walimpout11 with id VXAe1q0040GubkA01XAhyY; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:41 -0400 a=5nPN8ZtB+u9sgRkupnaTZQ==:117 a=SdCrofRtGxFAlm3vQP7Z8Q==:17 a=pq4jwCggAAAA:8 a=OF-CdTOGAAAA:8 a=dSNgoBpBW2kA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=yCwGVx20AAAA:8 a=ObD0-6JFAAAA:8 a=h1PgugrvaO0A:10 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=Pr_982fb5Eru43pdSHwA:9 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 Received: from [127.0.0.1] (helo=email.accountsupport.com) by walwebmail13.yourhostingaccount.com with esmtp (Exim) id 1YuQQV-0006lB-4C; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:13 -0400 Received: from 24.118.144.141 (SquirrelMail authenticated user greg@gelhar.com) by email.accountsupport.com with HTTP; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:11 -0400 References: Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:10:11 -0400 From: greg@gelhar.com To: "Jim Franklin" User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19 Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net You could clamp a 4 x4 to the rear edge of the boards. Then with the circular saw set at 30 degrees, put the saw base against the rear face of the 4 x4. Greg G. Osseo, MN > I decided to go with 2x8s as my trailer deck, but having an abrupt edge > would > make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match > the > deployed ramp, about 60 degrees (relative to the butt end). My circular, > table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw. > Any > ideas on how to get over to 60? > > There are 8 boards, so things like belt sanding from a 45, or using a > capricious hand saw are a last resort :-) > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/greg@gelhar.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 14:09:06 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7033D25865B4 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 14:09:06 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ie0-f175.google.com (mail-ie0-f175.google.com [209.85.223.175]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A957A258631F for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 13:43:05 -0600 (MDT) Received: by ieczm2 with SMTP id zm2so107720798iec.1 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:49:30 -0700 (PDT) d=1e100.net; s=20130820; h=x-gm-message-state:mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date :message-id:subject:from:to:cc:content-type; bh=nRyGK1p8GYkTwOq/dxBNEJloobn90KAIddpPbUcVpzM=; b=KPMqxAo6wVtS4lzsjRulmK4HzlBpDJjvrrv8kCknX8bBwQu/OfbhlYKndwXNl6buBa uCXibuNPV7mNiwQXfLnBDORUSL9SB9isbWJepePz4fgx7XgGVgV+xt0JeU2/kmrx5AHz 0gmxetjKfDq1sdHBNU70r6ntS0mICzRv/eb1P40krfQbmPLFs886CYQ0MKYszQAu51++ x7SjEfw1sIDnMnuGYV7OeATKcyo57x+23JjthtDsS0eAWGn71gwd2DeL3aSnSPps71uZ jG/nor9L3MPymNDSFfCsqHy2Ybu9iD7+RnxDqJXoqq8zY0IpjTVOWBow0kiVQ4LdKfKy EqJw== ru3mr16885728igb.40.1431978570362; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:49:30 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.36.116.198 with HTTP; Mon, 18 May 2015 12:49:30 -0700 (PDT) References: Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:49:30 -0400 From: Doug Braun To: Jim Franklin Cc: Shop-Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Google "scarfing jig". Doug On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Jim Franklin wrote: > I decided to go with 2x8s as my trailer deck, but having an abrupt edge > would > make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match > the > deployed ramp, about 60 degrees (relative to the butt end). My circular, > table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw. Any > ideas on how to get over to 60? > > There are 8 boards, so things like belt sanding from a 45, or using a > capricious hand saw are a last resort :-) _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 14:24:40 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4ADE02585FCB for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 14:24:40 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a78.g.dreamhost.com (sub5.mail.dreamhost.com [208.113.200.129]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 54E032584C37 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 14:22:46 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a78.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a78.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9339520006457 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 13:29:13 -0700 (PDT) content-type:mime-version:subject:from:in-reply-to:date :message-id:references:to; s=groupwbench.org; bh=boxtMNQVhGOaesi NI0i5BFq2c18=; b=PRtCBeHPr7n2J/TqFwh5+CNpSCx/unsyTEOmGv7/1svNh64 9Ku0vtBgOSRTTzvniqRU3VWtI9VuuF64UxcwnCAuDhkd4Ik1n84LXdHhWlXDY342 PIiwGZLo0Ts+owBBsCQ9vi8WBgPBbnHo5zPTKwApyU7l5VOn+p4Ph/Trc7lk= Received: from jims-imac.home (pool-98-118-108-149.bstnma.fios.verizon.net [98.118.108.149]) (using TLSv1 with cipher ECDHE-RSA-AES256-SHA (256/256 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by homiemail-a78.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 4243220006455 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 13:29:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 16:29:12 -0400 References: <5cae2102871a1a6d4226648ed94f8328.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net On May 18, 2015, at 3:10 PM, greg@gelhar.com wrote: > You could clamp a 4 x4 This and the scarfing jig would have worked except the depth of cut is 3.5" and the saws only go to 2.75. Tried one with the sawzall and the blade exit line wandered all over. jim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 15:06:36 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E22A22584EA0 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:06:36 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from smtp.centurylink.net (mail.centurylink.net [205.219.233.9]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4C3F82584EA0 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:06:28 -0600 (MDT) X_CMAE_Category: , , a=I0wsP0/ub+0M/VQyKFHlEA==:17 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=xwPayol1AAAA:8 a=8GN4XRofAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=ay1tAFVG9vnJpO_KOGgA:9 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=I0wsP0/ub+0M/VQyKFHlEA==:117 Authentication-Results: smtp03.agate.dfw.synacor.com smtp.user=ejrussell@mebtel.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) Received: from [99.194.29.42] ([99.194.29.42:63743] helo=EricJRussellPC) by smtp.centurylink.net (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 3.5.1.37854 r(Momo-dev:3.5.1.0)) with ESMTPA id AF/E7-23798-7D55A555; Mon, 18 May 2015 17:12:56 -0400 From: "Eric J Russell" To: "Jim Franklin" , References: Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 17:11:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net If you are not able to set the angle to 30 degrees and cut from the end of the boards, you could make an angle cut from each narrow edge then finish with a hand saw. If your saw cuts 2.5" deep then you'd have ~ 2.5" to cut by hand. If you have a router you can make simple scarfing jig. Or, can you end the decking an inch or so short and put an angled strip across the ends? Eric Russell Mebane, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Franklin" To: Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 3:00 PM Subject: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? >I decided to go with 2x8s as my trailer deck, but having an abrupt edge >would > make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match > the > deployed ramp, about 60 degrees (relative to the butt end). My circular, > table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw. > Any > ideas on how to get over to 60? > > There are 8 boards, so things like belt sanding from a 45, or using a > capricious hand saw are a last resort :-) _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 15:37:37 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C3D0B25859BD for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:37:37 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from nm19-vm6.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com (nm19-vm6.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com [216.39.63.167]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C0F9F2584B35 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:37:30 -0600 (MDT) s=s1024; t=1431985439; bh=ok2k76+j8P+bigEVh59CkR67AwJ6Hl4yfHRfPmQFXbY=; h=From:To:Subject:Date:From:Subject; b=DJkOCzxi4DFHIPF8gp62e29USuIhrVogWVXlchtbTGPjGMGmwhHp6a95AHjCMZuh6A5eUI90CCmUMO+hlL3uIHskdOHWF3l/Ym4/vsf/muDCl6PDss2oGxi7Hn+lmt9vnnVsfXyjVDE/a2yY6Urmvp41BRtbmI1b8GrdjjHdcR4= Received: from [216.39.60.172] by nm19.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 18 May 2015 21:43:59 -0000 Received: from [67.195.22.119] by tm8.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 18 May 2015 21:43:59 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by smtp114.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 18 May 2015 21:43:59 -0000 wS8jNAeArhsUdZaenHrku9D7p4vlCtIyHB0m8yf1hkf8MEGj9Vm3n5eRUa0w mUNV5c_TvZlN9jgAYzinj.ZhcIqeTL.TFqL62RbOhBLQPRSlk67HKRiF4bG3 hwQbtRRkVhEHBB_YWHNY9lu_McrW0znai5k.1DZiJ4M9V7l7ZpvB1TG4GX9V hA.2w6vYTu45pc9BZEKmbpTaBPd9wDZ0fbjU_dLHs85Fe_JroKmoDsRRpPWN L38x.Cwdfi84TgpuVVrzY.ThQThrp6.oy8ZnjTdQoZRtPxXgz6_WxSwqhTon DqBj3_p2PJLBkcnpsksjYRA8.2haez.YN78VmD_xBufaIv5ws82DUaSXRk0T OED0J9C2XdTr79VwVx1OKoq89jr.NCAB7sfZ_i9396u5CDreM6HueG33T_5H EmPerpCSz5Y_0IaOaLuiaL7PHMkk6twhHFHLwNSsLQV7D7_h16Y7vZY9ys8l Wxb66_QP0jSGpDrXsGoy5yJ6WAee.ha9pQM4P4.k- From: "john niolon" To: "shop-talk" Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 16:43:45 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] back up camera wiring help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Hi guys.. bought an E-bay special backup camera system for my Suburban... wonbt be installed permanently but used in different vehicles to hook up trailers. Will fab a bracket to hang the camera over the tailgate and the monitor will be in the cab. there is a 7b monitor with a red/black for 12 volts and two video feed lines for V1 and V2. and a Blue wire they tell me to hook up to the back up light. there is a camera with a red/black for 121 volts and a video o/p cable that goes to V1 or V2 on the monitor. Ibm assuming the blue wire is a trigger to turn on the camera when backing... but I want it on all the time so I assumed to hook it up to 12volt source. all I get when hooking up as above is a white light flashing on the monitor and no video at all Ibve tried it with and without the blue wire, blue wire to ground and blue wire to 12volt + nothing works..... any backinup gurus out there ??? I can email a sketch of wiring if anyone wants it thanks John _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 15:50:18 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 840542585ADA for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:50:18 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from homiemail-a92.g.dreamhost.com (sub5.mail.dreamhost.com [208.113.200.129]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DCD9225806FA for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:50:12 -0600 (MDT) Received: from homiemail-a92.g.dreamhost.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by homiemail-a92.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id DE8B23DC06E for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 14:56:41 -0700 (PDT) content-type:mime-version:subject:from:in-reply-to:date :message-id:references:to; s=groupwbench.org; bh=7SPwwZI8IU4ZsjU u5psQnEOktQw=; b=OA8DGZkVjiIPpm+9YxmSWZ3d6EeEcQmnuMaP+T81S2ORs8e 6jD0pVMYFSsnTW9Gr+PovfEuqzROpc3ZFR+AjKN9AfHG/q7m0bGdIojDkACDoEoB Am009tO7XxMB+n1TIvFpS/NzeYyL+nq5W3zDIY1MKvYptXiprptGozJprZ20= Received: from jims-imac.home (pool-98-118-108-149.bstnma.fios.verizon.net [98.118.108.149]) (using TLSv1 with cipher AES128-SHA (128/128 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org) by homiemail-a92.g.dreamhost.com (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 997D13DC005 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 14:56:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 17:56:39 -0400 References: <308720F7A27445AF965ABFD53B2936BB@EricJRussellPC> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net So, I ended up clamping all the boards together edge up, staggered, and made one long cut. Flipped the bundle over, made another. Then put the "instant amputee" pruning blade into the sawzall and finished the middle part. The belt sander took care of the unevenness. They won't match when adjacent but clearly there was no elegant solution in reasonable proximity. And I can belt sand some more to blend the edges if it annoys me. On May 18, 2015, at 5:11 PM, Eric J Russell wrote: > Or, can you end the decking an inch or so short and put an angled strip across the ends? Something like that - starting the cut 1/2" up the butt end so that the total depth was less - would have been the ideal solution given my lack of appropriate tools (no router, no handsaw). But I'd already cut one, and clipping its edge to match the rest would have meant making it shorter, and I don't have that wiggle room. Thanks for all the suggestions. jim _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 15:53:59 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DA2232585B3E for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:53:59 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qc0-f175.google.com (mail-qc0-f175.google.com [209.85.216.175]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AB3A42584D77 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:53:53 -0600 (MDT) Received: by qcbgu10 with SMTP id gu10so96150645qcb.2 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:00:22 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :cc:content-type; bh=4tRvtP1xtnqH8sQbxYbe24RheAgeDjel5QS+6Hhyv2g=; b=DVdV08WDkkHwNPB8rA18fsKAy6Q9vKVGt0LabWQb3Z34/10Junr7LsSOzGqBnysFKT ahfnSFPz+IovQmCmnmmSRFMZC3xqtRs2/gnq52Izo2gj84cKNHs4WxO6Qr1VWuFnkGXL 4VOqWSOI/TDc3qZIO2gbaNaQBi4PoD2WRe47KqnVUmVI9pE6e/euNKoOjCkCGpRibJhl +aP/riHMrK5uF/ws5DGsObeZCXmMFoY6DZLumXr+91oCsyZ2GpL7g3m9+MQ7i2rtIg0Y +9tdUR5iH8e1oZodtR3S8U/zndCk5SWgU5l/oLI9tZ/BxrtWeiTl37792eVXD1uOf34d s5qA== x141mr53131168qkx.23.1431986422681; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:00:22 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.96.169.99 with HTTP; Mon, 18 May 2015 15:00:22 -0700 (PDT) References: <58A0DCBF43FF499A9F2E2DEDD0C0C3F6@UserPC> Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 17:00:22 -0500 From: John Innis To: john niolon Cc: shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] back up camera wiring help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Not sure if yours is the same, but mine automatically selects V1 when the Blue Wire is OPEN and V2 when the blue wire has +12 V. I hooked mine up to a DPDT switch with a center off position so I could have ON-OFF-AUTO. The Blue wire is hooked up to the common terminal of them switch, the Reverse lights are on one leg and a +12 constant source on the other leg. I really like being able to flip it on any any time I want while pulling the trailer. On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 4:43 PM, john niolon wrote: > Hi guys.. > > bought an E-bay special backup camera system for my Suburban... wonb t be > installed permanently but used in different vehicles to hook up trailers. > Will fab a bracket to hang the camera over the tailgate and the monitor > will > be in the cab. > > there is a 7b monitor with a red/black for 12 volts and two video feed > lines for V1 and V2. and a Blue wire they tell me to hook up to the back > up > light. > there is a camera with a red/black for 121 volts and a video o/p cable > that > goes to V1 or V2 on the monitor. > > Ib m assuming the blue wire is a trigger to turn on the camera when > backing... but I want it on all the time so I assumed to hook it up to > 12volt > source. > > all I get when hooking up as above is a white light flashing on the monitor > and no video at all Ib ve tried it with and without the blue wire, blue > wire to ground and blue wire to 12volt + > > nothing works..... any backinup gurus out there ??? > > I can email a sketch of wiring if anyone wants it > > thanks > John > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 17:06:28 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3ED2C2584C74 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 17:06:28 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from nm23-vm5.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com (nm23-vm5.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com [98.138.91.245]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7FA7525846C2 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 17:06:18 -0600 (MDT) s=s2048; t=1431990761; bh=cTXoh+hi+sw/meTlFvaNoZSZl7tQJvG3wJFm58iN1QQ=; h=Date:From:Reply-To:To:In-Reply-To:References:Subject:From:Subject; b=AjWt7KkwbUC5T0baPP6l0qsCskZ3zwkAesTobmlUZ6RPSjLr87AvuKvn4m56evDaFUUKE4rJYKiSCy6OfVfqwV5Tm+CqzJ08gOGRs2R4W6qWwenV4dpilQzfN6QnmjTIE7nApdqcw7ItoXb7FVQkS+t5e1PbTo+/j1osd7RP5eE/1OJ4mqqtGnEU7xfLnRFc2BPjNsf7/HU+joW7hXwUbowZxZcfSLTF1SqT0tn4FPUyK2l4alALlCe28g98/4bmql/l+aBNOlZFAMSgCa33L0awqR5v9SwRwa9HE+5Sw//DDfdi5G2TuVOw20HQTOEjmfqAYXufPWFBbufsu8nuMA== Received: from [98.138.101.131] by nm23.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 18 May 2015 23:12:41 -0000 Received: from [98.138.226.167] by tm19.bullet.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 18 May 2015 23:12:41 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by omp1068.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 18 May 2015 23:12:41 -0000 LpGmg5sx8Xqqv49cjEUKloP7zUe17APZhsy91wNNrymj6_oXY1Yg.B5p3dHvtHYT9dK_ER_75EIN Dkp108muU48jtlfuEVVCybcWW6969h7pKLCsI9yz4vKO3uLROP8cQUO7nbaV2XpSJHXjRukh9hmY QZkmSUuQZm3XguS6qETUettO6hZSp6KIPUbsVA8qsLO1gE.VbFDLDtrMrllsOusvPn59_BLoVElb 7aC3Yi866GF_7NYAazlb8MHQ4K4xJEHmv4WLH9zJIx_Q4IQQ_XVxf2hEnJU_LDhP_.eCKZuUvuUo O3j6BaJ15oFq_nmhIzwwvcx6zarh1kNCOH93hXyzy_zpPLS083AR8XYAFDmgwDXEHdnUhqa9oDRK Ctc92kuvcEv7JHfw9N1OTiuA6gy6DTxM0oxdXjGB.BB_ZBrupoYdSVfPcPAFZ5ystKlYnalLlOrB h4G4Tr_dLIJhCTzyeAktKVXdvagUduBlvLnKThd208d3m7xX77MA- Received: by 98.138.105.214; Mon, 18 May 2015 23:12:41 +0000 Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 23:12:40 +0000 (UTC) From: ROBERT LANE To: Jim Franklin , "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" References: Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Why not setB a skill saw B on a angle to cut the ends?B then if the angle is not tapered enough finish it with the sander.CATCH YOU LATER,B B B ROBO On Monday, May 18, 2015 2:00 PM, Jim Franklin wrote: I decided to go with 2x8s as my trailer deck, but having an abrupt edge would make loading wheeled things annoying. I'd like to bevel the edge to match the deployed ramp, about 60 degrees (relative to the butt end). My circular, table, and chop saws all stop at 45. I don't have access to a band saw. Any ideas on how to get over to 60? There are 8 boards, so things like belt sanding from a 45, or using a capricious hand saw are a last resort :-) _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/robolane@sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 18 17:34:37 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 12B9325857A2 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 17:34:37 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail.milleredp.com (fw.milleredp.com [198.144.208.110]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BE19D25802F1 for ; Mon, 18 May 2015 17:27:51 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [10.1.2.100] ([::ffff:10.1.2.100]) (AUTH: PLAIN jem, TLS: TLSv1/SSLv3,128bits,AES128-SHA) by mail.milleredp.com with ESMTPSA; Mon, 18 May 2015 16:34:20 -0700 id 00000000002800AD.00000000555A76FC.000013F8 Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 16:34:14 -0700 From: John Miller User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.6.0 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net References: <2139767058.1410689.1431990760984.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to cut 60 degree bevel in 2x8? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net On 5/18/2015 4:12 PM, ROBERT LANE wrote: > Why not setB a skill saw B on a angle to cut the ends?B then if the angle is > not tapered enough finish it with the sander.CATCH YOU LATER,B B B ROBO I can think of various ways to do this, but they all involve fabricating some kind of a jig and if the circular saw available won't cut deep enough to do the cut then it's academic anyway. Easiest thing I can think of is to clamp a couple pieces of 1/8 steel across the long sides of the 2x6, with the one on the bottom offset to form the 60-degree angle, and run a sawzall down along the steel. Or even four strips of steel and leave yourself a 1/4in channel between them for the sawblade to run in. John. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Tue May 19 10:55:02 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9F39A2586058 for ; Tue, 19 May 2015 10:55:02 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from nm8-vm2.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com (nm8-vm2.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com [216.39.63.36]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 688F52585FEF for ; Tue, 19 May 2015 10:53:25 -0600 (MDT) s=s1024; t=1432054794; bh=Hf8hc2Fyj269S3OxLisK9kYwIeYG6aju2Syi1Syy3xs=; h=From:To:References:In-Reply-To:Subject:Date:From:Subject; b=2TpBGDw4G8DNSeLK6pZb2PJ5tFDzQ6HUYD7GBJY/KDsUxE0JHc4ONb3jLiUKy8Ywesl5HlZRvIX4rLrvMOaGguhlyg0h+tWwZHaKxlgNyWAuAHC92+OdgXf0cZaL6NucpUJibDWwSoflc5UTQZ5ZwSlUv/JvAvc/OL64+pnUR6k= Received: from [216.39.60.165] by nm8.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 May 2015 16:59:54 -0000 Received: from [67.195.22.118] by tm1.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 May 2015 16:59:54 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by smtp113.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 May 2015 16:59:54 -0000 jGpEwVIBisJogVnDSlzvzwOYvUth7SZHGN8PxSYZuhh1EUT4O9WCSHqtiosU kxlk8TtyzI3LUYoE8QneW6wEc00Y7nZtK2UfGaF8JG.iurTjwTTQOw0ZvCGv UjklbYcOAozm0pvdd4L07uwDyVTg0tzhZCXkrxAhMbYq0Z.j17kq_Ps0t6tb h9SnhYsOR7adqGCFeyYXW1PlsuwKdW8LtNToYpdaDGsjjLR8Akqf1NBocvhN SvtY5Woon2XJXO0_VkwEdP3y.fnSTbR.W.dWM.BF2nh3MR91ODI2KQo3qznw YzOrhkw3hhdzgGg9zy1__cQnuralPS2lvDKwPqodOrOdy3iWCAof1Lcxmp8P UAd3ErjIJfq3zE5NUoa_P8cecX76js0s.enNt4s9Kl8gpjGE.V0RKY5_9P_T pK1kOAaX8mapoo_W20Gk0awGsIPIVX1m1ZZZJPl_Q68K.msKCghDj.8s_Jy7 qaBU- From: "john niolon" To: "John Innis" , "shop-talk" References: <58A0DCBF43FF499A9F2E2DEDD0C0C3F6@UserPC> Date: Tue, 19 May 2015 11:59:41 -0500 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] back up camera wiring help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net thanks for the reply John.... sounds like ours are similar... I get no video on either V1 or V2 just this silly flashing screen.... also the menu button doesnbt work either... seems odd Ibd get two bad monitors in a row... still looking for answers From: John Innis Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 5:00 PM To: john niolon Cc: shop-talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] back up camera wiring help Not sure if yours is the same, but mine automatically selects V1 when the Blue Wire is OPEN and V2 when the blue wire has +12 V. I hooked mine up to a DPDT switch with a center off position so I could have ON-OFF-AUTO. The Blue wire is hooked up to the common terminal of them switch, the Reverse lights are on one leg and a +12 constant source on the other leg. I really like being able to flip it on any any time I want while pulling the trailer. On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 4:43 PM, john niolon wrote: Hi guys.. bought an E-bay special backup camera system for my Suburban... wonb t be installed permanently but used in different vehicles to hook up trailers. Will fab a bracket to hang the camera over the tailgate and the monitor will be in the cab. there is a 7b monitor with a red/black for 12 volts and two video feed lines for V1 and V2. and a Blue wire they tell me to hook up to the back up light. there is a camera with a red/black for 121 volts and a video o/p cable that goes to V1 or V2 on the monitor. Ib m assuming the blue wire is a trigger to turn on the camera when backing... but I want it on all the time so I assumed to hook it up to 12volt source. all I get when hooking up as above is a white light flashing on the monitor and no video at all Ib ve tried it with and without the blue wire, blue wire to ground and blue wire to 12volt + nothing works..... any backinup gurus out there ??? I can email a sketch of wiring if anyone wants it thanks John _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 20 19:42:28 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E680825851B1 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 19:42:28 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from haybaler.sackheads.org (haybaler.sackheads.org [140.186.190.103]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9F7E525845D5 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 19:31:48 -0600 (MDT) Received: from localhost (localhost.sackheads.org [127.0.0.1]) by haybaler.sackheads.org (Postfix) with ESMTP id 735FF285A8 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 21:38:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: from haybaler.sackheads.org ([127.0.0.1]) by localhost (haybaler.sackheads.org [127.0.0.1]) (amavisd-new, port 10024) with ESMTP id GPn3Q4z28qQd for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 21:38:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: by haybaler.sackheads.org (Postfix, from userid 65534) id 2BE38285A7; Wed, 20 May 2015 21:38:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [10.0.1.14] (cpe-74-138-152-195.kya.res.rr.com [74.138.152.195]) (using TLSv1 with cipher DHE-RSA-AES256-SHA (256/256 bits)) (No client certificate requested) (Authenticated sender: jimmie@sackheads.org) by haybaler.sackheads.org (Postfix) with ESMTP id EC8AC285A3 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 21:38:16 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 21:38:14 -0400 From: Jimmie Mayfield User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.6.0 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for some wire shelves... Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net About 18 months ago, my local Sears closed and during the liquidation I picked up some wire shelf fixtures from the linens department. Pretty stout. Wire thickness comparable to pallet racking but you mount them on standards and brackets like Closet Maid shelves. Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 These measure 48" wide and either 18" or 24" deep. There's a 1" lip across the front to keep things from sliding off. Across the bottom, there are two square tube crossbars for support. The crossbars have notches spaced 45" apart and there is a wire loop. The brackets fit through the loop and in the notches to keep the shelf from moving (I'm using 18" and 24" K&V brand wire shelf standards and brackets...they work well enough). I bought about a dozen at the time and have since mounted them in my garage. I wish I'd bought more. These shelves don't appear to have any labels or identifying markings (for all I know, Sears bought these decades ago when the store was built). Google- and Bing-image searches for terms like "wire shelves" and "wire baskets" didn't turn up anything promising. Does anybody know anything about these shelves? Who made them? Are they still obtainable? JM _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Wed May 20 20:13:27 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6666825851C3 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 20:13:27 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail.avvanta.com (smtp61.avvanta.com [206.124.128.61]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C2C4925844BA for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 20:02:31 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mail.avvanta.com (localhost.rowlf.p [127.0.0.1]) by mail.avvanta.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6F83093C49 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 19:08:31 -0700 (PDT) Received: from BigBlackIvy.racertodd.com (50-46-114-197.evrt.wa.frontiernet.net [50.46.114.197]) by mail.avvanta.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5650493C43 for ; Wed, 20 May 2015 19:08:31 -0700 (PDT) Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 19:07:27 -0700 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net From: Todd Walke localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Looking for some wire shelves... Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net You want to Google for "store fixtures" or "display fixtures". The term "fixtures" refers to all the racks, cases, shelving, etc that are used to display merchandise at a store. A search of those terms found several online store fixture sites, don't know if they sell in small quantities or not. If you're near a large city, there are likely to be store fixture companies that sell both used and new fixtures. Someone at those companies, that are "in the fixture business" may recognize your baskets and know where to get them. I saw an approximation of thom, they're for a "gridwall" display system. http://www.tucsonstorefixtures.com/images/products/10404.jpg Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 516,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 24 14:17:11 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8A15325845A8 for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:17:11 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ig0-f173.google.com (mail-ig0-f173.google.com [209.85.213.173]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EC7FC258457C for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 13:52:47 -0600 (MDT) Received: by igbhj9 with SMTP id hj9so25051909igb.1 for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 12:59:21 -0700 (PDT) h=mime-version:date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type; bh=xjTzjinV3M7gul704jBRbg5F+9KK1rhcKr31E2AkaOQ=; b=d/4DFXD2oKya5KrK41uWWjPCcgqyWSawfi/f99VFBLedmOjEDrgyvGuYDTh86V2bhY i6L0ejWsk1ZimG2fGiHt7w15St35DhhWKByA8u0xUFHfSqEIyniRHTS4BEdLNiC0L7Xo UfVeTUJlbcsamtf3IzqtK5+mAXs18MUW8pUM/D0FsjckgQ81BCN7pc9gG2u4M36Fyd7e QNZaQUVhX1ETnnNxAJ5l3qmHtOPoiHLTUzKbhB6ShzSHfwCglbe2MD7RYeXOjjr552xD 4VMMoRKm0B0mMFhKahoDdGp58b+JFeI0OyJdon6mzhYWAdK/gaxUx2DZlZytBazi6Eq/ FkpA== kq14mr16290704icb.23.1432497561393; Sun, 24 May 2015 12:59:21 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.50.101.227 with HTTP; Sun, 24 May 2015 12:59:21 -0700 (PDT) Date: Sun, 24 May 2015 15:59:21 -0400 From: Jeff Scarbrough To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" Subject: [Shop-talk] Bolt type? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I'm repairing some outdoor furniture from L.L. Bean. Two chairs were put together with carriage bolts, but the third one (bought sometime later) has a unique type of fastener. It looks like an elevator bolt, but the flat head has a hex indentation, so it can be driven with an Allen wrench. The underside of the flange is round instead of square, the same diameter all the way down. These are much better than carriage bolts for things that need to be disassembled more than once (and that's these chairs...) Anyone got any idea what it might be called, or where I can get some? TIA, Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 24 14:47:50 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7C8CA2584F96 for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:47:50 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from st11p02mm-asmtp002.mac.com (st11p02mm-asmtp002.mac.com [17.172.220.237]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D500F25806EE for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:29:53 -0600 (MDT) Received: from [192.168.0.44] (174-25-41-13.ptld.qwest.net [174.25.41.13]) by st11p02mm-asmtp002.mac.com (Oracle Communications Messaging Server 7.0.5.35.0 64bit (built Dec 4 2014)) with ESMTPSA id <0NOV00KI6FWI1F10@st11p02mm-asmtp002.mac.com> for Shop-talk@autox.team.net; Sun, 24 May 2015 20:36:20 +0000 (GMT) engine=2.50.10432:5.14.151,1.0.33,0.0.0000 definitions=2015-05-24_03:2015-05-22,2015-05-24,1970-01-01 signatures=0 spamscore=0 suspectscore=2 phishscore=0 adultscore=0 bulkscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1 engine=7.0.1-1412110000 definitions=main-1505240288 From: Darrell Walker Date: Sun, 24 May 2015 13:36:17 -0700 References: To: Jeff Scarbrough Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bolt type? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sounds like a furniture bolt. Yes, that is a thing. -Darrel > On May 24, 2015, at 12:59 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > I'm repairing some outdoor furniture from L.L. Bean. Two chairs were > put together with carriage bolts, but the third one (bought sometime > later) has a unique type of fastener. It looks like an elevator bolt, > but the flat head has a hex indentation, so it can be driven with an > Allen wrench. The underside of the flange is round instead of square, > the same diameter all the way down. > > These are much better than carriage bolts for things that need to be > disassembled more than once (and that's these chairs...) > > Anyone got any idea what it might be called, or where I can get some? > > TIA, > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 24 15:03:23 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B552725851DE for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 15:03:23 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from resqmta-po-07v.sys.comcast.net (resqmta-po-07v.sys.comcast.net [96.114.154.166]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 31ABC258456B for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:43:18 -0600 (MDT) Received: from resomta-po-06v.sys.comcast.net ([96.114.154.230]) by resqmta-po-07v.sys.comcast.net with comcast id Xwpn1q0014yXVJQ01wprMi; Sun, 24 May 2015 20:49:51 +0000 Received: from BigBlack ([IPv6:2601:8:b880:b527:5883:ccb6:f0e:19a5]) by resomta-po-06v.sys.comcast.net with comcast id Xwpq1q00A4o18Wn01wpqaZ; Sun, 24 May 2015 20:49:51 +0000 From: "Bob Kegel" To: "Jeff Scarbrough" , "shop-talk@autox.team.net" References: Date: Sun, 24 May 2015 13:49:49 -0700 s=q20140121; t=1432500591; bh=70x6kab8soP4QqwBzDAHXLBL0TohiYf0IWEQ9OtQX5o=; h=Received:Received:Message-ID:Reply-To:From:To:Subject:Date: MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=ozZ/so3OvCIhlgq4ktdfZJpJdjOYjpzGgizSgZeu2QT1G/kDZ2KQs1c2lLjyXFqZx +djwptAmnkfXYUy+disCDRtGVP6/dPvvpoAifVpQJzqb54koyumppZZMkOC3xv4dNm ht9zxXlYcjuO69ZbaYR1J8XlQ9EUHUR5px6aISjQe+r5LtrB7iSVTdvSB/oFJhBAdS +2Y5AE261UZNwR/ffNUB4xE3Nlgyv1PQarUET3pRxnb7/weXGodqdKPyQ9a6WyiQX9 SaW6ngpC8b5yMeHqaG8FhLQlnYo+AsGgE63xLn8B1JaX7vHSYhKem4XWkGFAlvp6UK +5pYYbbBQmbDQ== Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bolt type? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Connector bolt? Bob K _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 24 15:17:50 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D802525853FF for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 15:17:50 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from mail.avvanta.com (smtp61.avvanta.com [206.124.128.61]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B3B37258456B for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:57:03 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mail.avvanta.com (localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net [127.0.0.1]) by mail.avvanta.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id B55CAF3938 for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:03:35 -0700 (PDT) Received: from BigBlackIvy.racertodd.com (50-46-114-197.evrt.wa.frontiernet.net [50.46.114.197]) by mail.avvanta.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 413A0F3935 for ; Sun, 24 May 2015 14:03:35 -0700 (PDT) Date: Sun, 24 May 2015 14:03:31 -0700 To: shop-talk@autox.team.net From: Todd Walke mail.com> localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bolt type? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I'm guessing those are "furniture bolts" or "connector bolts". Google both terms for examples. Here are some at Rockler: That page also shows what they thread into: barrel nuts, cap nuts, tee nuts, inserts, etc Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles '01 Golf TDI, silver. (new work car) 516,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car) 654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :( http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Mon May 25 07:07:52 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5D3402585CE0 for ; Mon, 25 May 2015 07:07:52 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from BAY004-OMC1S16.hotmail.com (bay004-omc1s16.hotmail.com [65.54.190.27]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CDB7325803E9 for ; Mon, 25 May 2015 06:52:25 -0600 (MDT) Received: from BAY402-EAS95 ([65.54.190.60]) by BAY004-OMC1S16.hotmail.com over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(7.5.7601.22751); Mon, 25 May 2015 05:58:59 -0700 Date: Mon, 25 May 2015 05:59:27 -0400 From: Jack Brooks To: Jeff Scarbrough , "shop-talk@autox.team.net" FILETIME=[9128D3B0:01D096EA] Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bolt type? Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net If you are near an IKEA, store they have them. If not, check a real hardwre store, not big box store. Jack --- Original Message --- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" Sent: May 24, 2015 4:23 PM To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" Subject: [Shop-talk] Bolt type? I'm repairing some outdoor furniture from L.L. Bean. Two chairs were put together with carriage bolts, but the third one (bought sometime later) has a unique type of fastener. It looks like an elevator bolt, but the flat head has a hex indentation, so it can be driven with an Allen wrench. The underside of the flange is round instead of square, the same diameter all the way down. These are much better than carriage bolts for things that need to be disassembled more than once (and that's these chairs...) Anyone got any idea what it might be called, or where I can get some? TIA, Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net Sun May 31 13:12:52 2015 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 65219258585B for ; Sun, 31 May 2015 13:12:52 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: shop-talk@autox.team.net Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B7A5A2584A18 for ; Sun, 31 May 2015 13:12:41 -0600 (MDT) Received: from bradakis.com (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by bradakis.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 86ABC2C007C for ; Sun, 31 May 2015 13:12:41 -0600 (MDT) Date: Sun, 31 May 2015 13:12:41 -0600 From: Mark J Bradakis User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:36.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/36.0 SeaMonkey/2.33.1 To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Shop-talk] Team.Net Troubles Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net I think that this message may actually go out to some folks. But currently, and for the last several days email can not be delivered to autox.team.net. Glad it didn't happen during the Kastner Cup! What happened is that the Comcast cable modem kissed the turf, cutting the servers off from the world. After waiting unsuccessfully for a Comcast tech to come replace the broken box I spent some of my time and money trying to get a store bought box to work. Somewhat successful, but the box I purchased apparently does not have the smarts to deal with a block of static IP addresses on the LAN side. Fun, fun, fun. Bottom line is that Team.Net is broken, and I have no ETA as to it being fully operational again. And replying to this message will not work. If you do wish to contact me use the address hoosierq@gmail.com I sincerely apologize for this inconvenience, and am working to resolve it. Thank you for you patience. mjb, the overpaid and underworked man behind the curtain. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive