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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] dogs
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http://fb-694.lifebuzz.com/27-struggles/

-- 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  6 18:32:39 2015
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  dogs
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Oops.  Wrong address.  Sorry about that.

Mike
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 13:54:37 2015
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Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 12:46:42 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra extended cab, short bed.  I would like to find 
the axle ratio and engine size.  I am pretty sure the engine is a 5.3 
Vortec, but I'm having trouble finding the axle ratio. None of the codes 
in the glove box match anything I read on line.  Any pointers?  I will 
need to be towing a trailer quite a bit in the future and need to know 
how heavy I can go.

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 15:38:40 2015
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To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
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Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I have a 2004 GMC Sierra extended cab, short bed.  I would like to find the axle ratio and engine size.

The engine should be encoded in the VIN. For the axle ratio you may have to actually get under it and compare
turns of the wheels to turns of the driveshaft.

And thanks for reminding me about shop-talk, I forgot this one yesterday. Hang on a few minutes.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 15:39:36 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

April, 1991. Mariah Carey and Whitney Houston had top hits. The Soviet Union is crumbling.
The Gulf War begins. And on the 11th the domain Team.Net is registered.

Happy birthday to us, 24 years and still kicking. Formed out of the Usenet rec.autos tree,
it started with just 2 lists, autox and british-cars. It became large enough and busy enough
that the officials at the U noticed that a large amount of network traffic was coming from one
certain machine in my office. That is what prompted the move to a private server, which has been
in my basement for many years. Well, we are NOT running on the same server from back then, which I
recall was one of the first 120 Megahertz systems in the valley outside of universities. With the
CS departments work with Hewlett-Packard, I had a connection.

A lot has changed over the years, folks have come and gone, some have been hanging out here for
decades. We've lost a few good ones, but many of us have found lasting friendships from list
communications. Back in the early days there wasn't much besides Team.Net. I think the 1997
SCCA Solo II nationals had something like 60% of the entrants being autox list subscribers.
Those were the days.

But still here, still providing a valuable service to those who use it.  Thanks to all of us
for making Team.Net what it is.

Happy Birthday.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 15:56:37 2015
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References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 16:31:58 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There should be a sticker inside the driver door jamb that shows the
trailer capacity of your specific truck.  That sticker (if it is still
there) is specific to your VIN, so if it is missing you MIGHT be able to
get a dealer to look up all the pertinent information.  The RPO codes in
the glove box SHOULD tell you your axle ratio, but you have to find the
decoder specific to your year.  Of course the low tech solution is to lift
the rear end and see how many turns of the prop shaft are required to get
one revolution of the rear wheels.

On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 2:46 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
wrote:

> I have a 2004 GMC Sierra extended cab, short bed.  I would like to find
> the axle ratio and engine size.  I am pretty sure the engine is a 5.3
> Vortec, but I'm having trouble finding the axle ratio. None of the codes in
> the glove box match anything I read on line.  Any pointers?  I will need to
> be towing a trailer quite a bit in the future and need to know how heavy I
> can go.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 16:10:23 2015
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To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Apr 12, 2015, at 3:46 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> I have a 2004 GMC Sierra extended cab, short bed.  I would like to find the
axle ratio and engine size.  I am pretty sure the engine is a 5.3 Vortec, but
I'm having trouble finding the axle ratio. None of the codes in the glove box
match anything I read on line.  Any pointers?  I will need to be towing a
trailer quite a bit in the future and need to know how heavy I can go.

If you can't read the tag on the rear end, you can do a quick and dirty
guesstimtae by counting the number of times the driveshaft turns to make one
revolution of the rear wheel (you'll need to keep one rear wheel from turning
if it isn't a limited slip). The more accurate way is to chalk the driveshaft
and rear wheel, then spin the driveshaft, and count the number of turns of
each until the chalk marks line up again, then divide the smaller number into
the larger. Helps to have a second set of eyes for the latter method.

The first should get you close enough to match to a published number like
3.23, 3.73, etc.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 16:39:55 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Cavanaugh'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>,
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 15:26:29 -0700
Thread-Index: AdB1W2KSNiPxTFfCQiGYIhzJQOEwIQAEz5CQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Any 
> pointers?  I will 
> need to be towing a trailer quite a bit in the future and 
> need to know 
> how heavy I can go.

Since you won't be worried about the manufacturer's warranty, my suggestion is to get gauges for coolant, engine oil, and
transmission fluid temperature.  Keep an eye on them, as long as they don't overheat you can tow a LOT more than the factory rating.
Slow down & use lower gears as necessary to keep everything within range.

If it pulls too hard on the flat, you may need to always go down a gear while towing, and perhaps two or three gears while climbing
grades.  

I've gone through the Rockies several times now, towing several times the rated tow capacity, and got by fine.  Once when it was
really hot outside, we wound up grinding up a grade in 1st gear at 8 mph, but we got there.  However that was with a manual
transmission, so I only worried about oil & coolant temps.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 18:53:42 2015
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References: <552AE1C0.3050703@bradakis.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 20:09:26 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/12/2015 20:10:06, Serialize complete at
 04/12/2015 20:10:06
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen
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While I wasn't here in the very beginning, I just checked my personal 
archives and found the very first email I got from the list.  It was about 
a sale on lifts that I ended up buying for my garage!

I do find it interesting that many of the early adopters of the internet 
list servers still band together.  I'm on many lists that started in the 
early nineties.  Now a days, most FORMATS don't last 10 years. 
Does anyone still have a myspace page?  What about their Geocities site?  
I'm glad I just bought a domain name early on and ran my own 
webserver/mail server 12/1998 is my domain's b'day.  I never have to worry 
about what is about to end. 

8>)

Have a great day everyone.  Get out and enjoy the shop.
HAPPY B'DAY!

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 



From:   Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To:     shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Date:   04/12/2015 05:26 PM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>



April, 1991. Mariah Carey and Whitney Houston had top hits. The Soviet 
Union is crumbling.
The Gulf War begins. And on the 11th the domain Team.Net is registered.

Happy birthday to us, 24 years and still kicking. Formed out of the Usenet 
rec.autos tree,
it started with just 2 lists, autox and british-cars. It became large 
enough and busy enough
that the officials at the U noticed that a large amount of network traffic 
was coming from one
certain machine in my office. That is what prompted the move to a private 
server, which has been
in my basement for many years. Well, we are NOT running on the same server 
from back then, which I
recall was one of the first 120 Megahertz systems in the valley outside of 
universities. With the
CS departments work with Hewlett-Packard, I had a connection.

A lot has changed over the years, folks have come and gone, some have been 
hanging out here for
decades. We've lost a few good ones, but many of us have found lasting 
friendships from list
communications. Back in the early days there wasn't much besides Team.Net. 
I think the 1997
SCCA Solo II nationals had something like 60% of the entrants being autox 
list subscribers.
Those were the days.

But still here, still providing a valuable service to those who use it. 
Thanks to all of us
for making Team.Net what it is.

Happy Birthday.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 20:30:49 2015
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <552AE1C0.3050703@bradakis.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 18:43:38 -0700
Thread-Index: AdB1agQhDwOpjniRQGO1wpl34aphcgAID9nw
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen
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Listers,

To help keep it all going strong, please click on the "donate" link Mark
posted below and send him a few bucks.  Hardware costs keep going up and
stuff is always wearing out and/or breaking.

To make it easy, here is the link Mark posted below:

Thank you,

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 2:21 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen

April, 1991. Mariah Carey and Whitney Houston had top hits. The Soviet Union
is crumbling.
The Gulf War begins. And on the 11th the domain Team.Net is registered.

Happy birthday to us, 24 years and still kicking. Formed out of the Usenet
rec.autos tree,
it started with just 2 lists, autox and british-cars. It became large enough
and busy enough
that the officials at the U noticed that a large amount of network traffic
was coming from one
certain machine in my office. That is what prompted the move to a private
server, which has been
in my basement for many years. Well, we are NOT running on the same server
from back then, which I
recall was one of the first 120 Megahertz systems in the valley outside of
universities. With the
CS departments work with Hewlett-Packard, I had a connection.

A lot has changed over the years, folks have come and gone, some have been
hanging out here for
decades. We've lost a few good ones, but many of us have found lasting
friendships from list
communications. Back in the early days there wasn't much besides Team.Net. I
think the 1997
SCCA Solo II nationals had something like 60% of the entrants being autox
list subscribers.
Those were the days.

But still here, still providing a valuable service to those who use it.
Thanks to all of us
for making Team.Net what it is.

Happy Birthday.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 12 22:40:52 2015
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Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2015 21:12:07 -0700
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
 <6B87EE23-A78B-4369-98E9-A88B9977AF0E@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> If you can't read the tag on the rear end, you can do a quick and dirty
> guesstimtae by counting the number of times the driveshaft turns to make one
> revolution

It's gonna be 3.73-ish or 4.10-ish, I'm guessing.

The chassis and powertrain are the same either way, but the GM tow 
rating is based on what the engine can pull.

Know from personal experience that combo will pull a 6000lb (steel-frame 
wood-deck open car trailer with 3500 on the trailer plus a bunch in the 
bed) over the lumps between California and Oregon quite handily with the 
4.10.

My '03 2500 Suburban 4x4 with the 6-liter LQ4 is rated at something like 
7500lb with the 3.73 it's got, and 11K with the 4.10, the 
chassis/brakes/cooling are the same, it's all about the ability of the 
thing to get out of its own way when loaded.  The 6-liter LQ4 doesn't 
mind having the crap beat out of it, but sometimes you really do have to 
beat the crap out if it.

Shame they never offered the damn Sub with a Duratec.  Swap cost is 
prohibitive, an Edelbrock TVS1900 blower for the LQ4 is $5K-ish but it's 
got 150K miles on it so...

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 13 05:58:00 2015
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 07:44:01 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Apr 12, 2015 at 3:46 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
> Any pointers?  I will need to be towing a trailer quite a bit in the future
> and need to know how heavy I can go.

While worrying about the go, don't neglect the whoa.  Make sure your
brakes are adequate to stop any mass that you have set in motion.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 13 07:08:57 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 07:55:41 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/13/2015 07:55:54, Serialize complete at
 04/13/2015 07:55:54
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff writes...

>While worrying about the go, don't neglect the whoa.  Make sure your
>brakes are adequate to stop any mass that you have set in motion.

I can't agree more with this.  I was assuming that the trailer has brakes. 
 Make sure they work (and the actuator whether surge or electronic.)

FWIW, a truck with a heavy load on a trailer with properly functioning 
brakes can normally stop in LESS distance than just the truck alone.

Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 13 07:45:06 2015
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Jack Brooks'" <JIBrooks@Live.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <552AE1C0.3050703@bradakis.com>
 <BLU436-SMTP400098DB02A0F4ADD720BBA8E70@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 08:09:51 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen
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Thanks for the memories! I didn't realize how early I got in. It was 1994.
Wonder where all the rest of those on lone are now.

Tom Walter is still near Austin but got out of the Roadster business and
into building his own plane.

Anyone else know where other early folks are?

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack
Brooks
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 8:44 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen

Listers,

To help keep it all going strong, please click on the "donate" link Mark
posted below and send him a few bucks.  Hardware costs keep going up and
stuff is always wearing out and/or breaking.

To make it easy, here is the link Mark posted below:

Thank you,

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 2:21 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] A couple of dozen

April, 1991. Mariah Carey and Whitney Houston had top hits. The Soviet Union
is crumbling.
The Gulf War begins. And on the 11th the domain Team.Net is registered.

Happy birthday to us, 24 years and still kicking. Formed out of the Usenet
rec.autos tree, it started with just 2 lists, autox and british-cars. It
became large enough and busy enough that the officials at the U noticed that
a large amount of network traffic was coming from one certain machine in my
office. That is what prompted the move to a private server, which has been
in my basement for many years. Well, we are NOT running on the same server
from back then, which I recall was one of the first 120 Megahertz systems in
the valley outside of universities. With the CS departments work with
Hewlett-Packard, I had a connection.

A lot has changed over the years, folks have come and gone, some have been
hanging out here for decades. We've lost a few good ones, but many of us
have found lasting friendships from list communications. Back in the early
days there wasn't much besides Team.Net. I think the 1997 SCCA Solo II
nationals had something like 60% of the entrants being autox list
subscribers.
Those were the days.

But still here, still providing a valuable service to those who use it.
Thanks to all of us
for making Team.Net what it is.

Happy Birthday.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 13 12:56:43 2015
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 14:14:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Sun, 12 Apr 2015, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I have a 2004 GMC Sierra extended cab, short bed.  I would like to find the 
> axle ratio and engine size.  I am pretty sure the engine is a 5.3 Vortec, but 
> I'm having trouble finding the axle ratio. None of the codes in the glove box 
> match anything I read on line.  Any pointers?  I will need to be towing a 
> trailer quite a bit in the future and need to know how heavy I can go.

    Have you owned the truck since new?  If so, check the window sticker.

    If not, I would say that there's no way you can be sure the original 
diff, whatever it was, remains.  So, in that case, you have to spin the 
driveshaft and count the wheel rotations.

and Eric wrote...
> FWIW, a truck with a heavy load on a trailer with properly functioning
> brakes can normally stop in LESS distance than just the truck alone.

    I do not believe this, and it is contrary to my experience, and that of 
basically everyone I can find.  It is also the opposite of what you are 
taught when you get your CDL.

<http://www.reddit.com/r/todayilearned/comments/27wz8u/til_an_empty_semitruck_has_a_longer_stopping/>
<http://special-reports.pickuptrucks.com/2013/06/2013-light-duty-challenge-braking.html>
<http://www.driversafetypro.com/stopdist.gif>

    I'm aware of the simple physics argument.  Simple physics does not do a 
very good job of describing the interaction between modern rubber tires 
and imperfect road surfaces, among other things.

    No way, no how have any of my trucks stopped faster with a loaded 
trailer than alone.  If you believe the opposite, why are racecars light?

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 13 13:51:20 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 15:09:58 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/13/2015 15:10:00, Serialize complete at
 04/13/2015 15:10:00
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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David writes...

>    I'm aware of the simple physics argument.  Simple physics does not do 
a 
>very good job of describing the interaction between modern rubber tires 
>and imperfect road surfaces, among other things.
>    No way, no how have any of my trucks stopped faster with a loaded 
>trailer than alone. 

Cool, an old fashion debate!  Actually, my statement was flawed.  There 
are times when loaded vs unloaded takes longer.  Looking at the NHTSA 
chart, it seems I was wrong more than right, but not always wrong.

https://books.google.com/books?id=I511spiUbQsC&pg=PA18&lpg=PA18&dq=stopping+distance+of+loading+trucks+veruses+bobtails&source=bl&ots=p_4qyM2kAx&sig=7R-dIFTJjsyBgy2yCVogP6z3C6k&hl=en&sa=X&ei=IhcsVY_uBO6LsQT6goCQCg&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=stopping%20distance%20of%20loading%20trucks%20veruses%20bobtails&f=false

But many other sites agree with me...
http://www.thetruckersreport.com/truckingindustryforum/questions-from-new-drivers/143450-empty-trailers-take-longer-stop.html


Than you ask
>If you believe the opposite, why are racecars light?

Because they aren't competing in how fast they can stop, but how fast they 
can go.  8>)

So, in the end, I was kinda wrong but that doesn't mean I'm a bad guy. 8>0

Eric P
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 16:47:04 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Apr 13, 2015 at 1:14 PM, David Hillman
<hillman@planet-torque.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 12 Apr 2015, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
>>
>>
> and Eric wrote...
>>
>> FWIW, a truck with a heavy load on a trailer with properly functioning
>> brakes can normally stop in LESS distance than just the truck alone.
>
>
>    I do not believe this, and it is contrary to my experience, and that of
> basically everyone I can find.  It is also the opposite of what you are
> taught when you get your CDL.
>

The issue, historically, has been that brake proportioning wasn't
adjusted for changing trailer weight.  So  brakes got set up so they'd
work right when the trailer was loaded.  When it was empty, they were
too aggressive, and you couldn't brake the tractor as hard before the
trailer brakes locked up.  Better proportioning valves, and for the
last 20 years, ABS, have made this less of a problem for heavy duty
trucks.  It's still an issue on smaller trailers; if you have an
electric brake, you can make adjustments, but it's still bad.

In the wet, a loaded tire can have somewhat less bad traction than it
would when unloaded, which can improve braking performance.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 17:57:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFEAB699D8.C3EC3223-ON85257E26.006A30D1-85257E26.006ACA29@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Mon, 13 Apr 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Because they aren't competing in how fast they can stop, but how fast they
> can go.  8>)

    So you are suggesting that weight only positively effects traction used 
to stop, not used to go or turn?  How does the weight know when "turn off" 
and "turn on"?  That's obviously not possible.  If weight improves braking 
traction, it has to also improve traction in all other phases.

    If weight were beneficial overall, racecars would be as heavy as 
practical... especially ones with excess horsepower.

    They are not.

    Also, that link discusses the relative stopping distances of loaded v 
unloaded semis with trailers.  And much of it focuses on staying in 
control, not actual stopping distances.  That's more than a little 
different than the original claim, which was a "heavy load" behind a 
truck stopping quicker, versus the truck alone.  That is a no contest. 
Especially if we are talking about pickup type trucks.

    According to pickuptrucks.com, my F150 will stop in 132 feet from 
60mph.  Other half-tons are between 137 (GMC) and 150 (Toyota).  In 
order to match that while towing my 20' box ( ~7,000 lbs loaded ), I'd 
have to stop in ~8 car-lengths (nose to tail).  To beat it, I'd have to 
approach -1G.  I have had a couple emergency stops, and that is not 
happening.  Not even with a brand new trailer.

<http://special-reports.pickuptrucks.com/2013/06/2013-light-duty-challenge-braking.html>

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2015 20:27:42 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
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Amazingly enough I was able to find it.  My wife was able to dig out the 
file, and the window sticker was there.  It is a 5300 Vortec with 3.42 
(locking) rear axle and a 6200 GVW rating.  It also has "heavy duty 
trailering equip" which I assume means a transmission cooler and a nice 
receiver hitch and light plug.

Given these details, any other stuff I might want to consider adding 
before towing several loads of shop tools (table saws, shapers, etc) 
over a bunch of mountains in western Oregon and southern Idaho?

On 4/13/2015 11:14 AM, David Hillman wrote:
>
>    Have you owned the truck since new?  If so, check the window sticker.
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
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> Given these details, any other stuff I might want to consider adding
> before towing several loads of shop tools (table saws, shapers, etc)
> over a bunch of mountains in western Oregon and southern Idaho?

Stereo Bluetooth.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 14:38:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, 13 Apr 2015, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> Amazingly enough I was able to find it.  My wife was able to dig out the 
> file, and the window sticker was there.  It is a 5300 Vortec with 3.42 
> (locking) rear axle and a 6200 GVW rating.  It also has "heavy duty 
> trailering equip" which I assume means a transmission cooler and a nice 
> receiver hitch and light plug.

    Not sure if you already figured this out or not, but according to the 
super-handy Trailer-Life Towing Guide*, your tow rating is 7,100 
lbs ( 1500 Ext Cab RWD SB with b,f options... top line of right column, 
page 4 in the 2004 book ).

> Given these details, any other stuff I might want to consider adding 
> before towing several loads of shop tools (table saws, shapers, etc) 
> over a bunch of mountains in western Oregon and southern Idaho?

    I think there's a whole bunch of relevant detail omitted here.  What 
kind of trailer?  How old?  Does it have brakes?  What kind?  How heavy is 
it empty?  How much weight are you planning to load into it?  Does your 
truck have a brake controller?  If not, you're going to want to install a 
Tekonsha Prodigy.

    Some people swear by weight distributing hitches.  Some people even use 
them all the time, regardless of load.  I have one, but I don't find it 
makes a noticeable difference below about 5000 pounds trailer weight.
However, when I tow ~7000 as I often do now ( with my F150 which is rated 
for 9700 and weighs about 6000 ) it is very much worth both the small 
expense to buy it, and the add'l time to hook it up each trip.

    Good luck.

--
  David Hillman

* <http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/>
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 12:53:49 -0700
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Garden hose reel/caddy
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(Shop talk content:  I use this hose to wash my cars)

Does anyone have a recommendation for a garden hose reel/caddy that might last
more than a couple of years?  They all start to leak around the connection
that lets the reel turn while still supplying water.  Ibve been by the big
box stores, and they appear to be more cheaply made every year.  It seems like
the reel ought to last as long as the hose, this hose is going on 20 years,
but it is the third reel.  They are always drained before it freezes, so that
isnbt it.

Thanks,
Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA
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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 16:19:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <7FF5E398-1B50-4056-8A2E-37165036D60C@mac.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garden hose reel/caddy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015, Darrell Walker wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a garden hose reel/caddy that might last
> more than a couple of years?  They all start to leak around the connection
> that lets the reel turn while still supplying water.  Ibve been by the big
> box stores, and they appear to be more cheaply made every year.  It seems like
> the reel ought to last as long as the hose, this hose is going on 20 years,
> but it is the third reel.  They are always drained before it freezes, so that
> isnbt it.

    I was in that boat last year, or the year before.  Eley was recommended 
to me.

<http://www.eleyhosereels.com/select-your-hose-reel/reels/>

    Admittedly, I have not had it long enough to judge, but the one I have 
is definitely built and finished to a higher standard than Home Depot 
units.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 20:31:47 GMT
To: darrellw360@mac.com, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garden hose reel/caddy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have called Suncast 800 846 2345   on several occasions and they sent me a
replacement part that solved the leaking...




---------- Original Message ----------
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>

  They all start to leak around the connection
that lets the reel turn while still supplying water.
____________________________________________________________
Old School Yearbook Pics
View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/552d7978955e17978354dst01vuc
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To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>,  shop-talk List
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <7FF5E398-1B50-4056-8A2E-37165036D60C@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garden hose reel/caddy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've gone through several of the cheap Suncast ones from the big box 
stores.  I had leak on one, called Suncast and they sent the replacement 
part for free.

I seem to get about 10 years out of each before the 4' connector hose 
springs a leak.  At that point, they are sun faded and I think I got a 
fair value for $25.

In my backyard I installed a wall mount NeverLeak by Ames Plastic 225-ft 
Wall-Mount Hose Reel and am happy with it.  Quality seems a little 
better.  The 225' capacity does great for a quality 100' hose.  The hose 
guide also makes it much easier to reel up.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_41909-302-2415500_0+1z0vipo__?productId=4363431

Brian

On 4/14/2015 12:53 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> (Shop talk content:  I use this hose to wash my cars)
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a garden hose reel/caddy that might last
> more than a couple of years?  They all start to leak around the connection
> that lets the reel turn while still supplying water.  Ibve been by the big
> box stores, and they appear to be more cheaply made every year.  It seems like
> the reel ought to last as long as the hose, this hose is going on 20 years,
> but it is the third reel.  They are always drained before it freezes, so that
> isnbt it.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 19:43:14 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/14/2015 19:43:26, Serialize complete at
 04/14/2015 19:43:26
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Garden hose reel/caddy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Darrell asks about hose reels...


This is one of the Harbor Freight success stories.  I bought two of these 
(well, they were branded slightly differently and only cost $69.99)

https://www.google.com/search?q=retractable+garden+hose+reel&rlz=1C1CHWA_enUS619US619&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=jaktVZ_DL4GwggSIwoKADA&ved=0CB4Qsxg

They have lasted over 10 years now of LOTS of use.  But, they are mounting 
inside my shop, but they get used year round.

I can't find them at Harbor Freight anymore, but it was pretty much this 
model at half the price when they had them.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2015 20:38:43 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garden hose reel/caddy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 3:53 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a recommendation for a garden hose reel/caddy that might
> last
> more than a couple of years?
>

This is the one I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Garden-Multi-Purpose-Mount/dp/B007W5H8TW/ref=zg_bs_3480704011_59

We've had it since October of 2012, and so far, so good.  The paint looks
kind of chalky - more so than you would expect a powder-coated item to be -
but it functions perfectly well.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2015 19:44:20 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

All excellent points.  As of now, I don't have a trailer, I am just 
exploring options.  I may rent the largest flatbed that UHaul rents for 
a couple of one way trips, or I may just rent a large Ryder with a lift 
gate and be done with it.  That, however, won't solve the problem of the 
tractor.

Most of the heavy stuff consists of vintage cast iron woodworking power 
tools:  18" Powermatic planer, Delta 12/14" TS, Powermatic 10" TS,  two 
shapers, wide belt sander, RAS, edge sander, drill presses, tenoner, 
mortiser, couple of medium size band saws.  I will palletize everything 
that isn't on skids, and already have a pallet jack and will rent a 
forklift.  I can determine the weight of each machine from the vendor 
literature, and will calculate the footprint to determine how much I can 
get on the truck or trailer.  That will be at least two trailer loads, 
probably.  Then all of the other shop stuff, workbenches, portable 
tools, supplies and so on are another trip.  Then my hardwood supply, 
probably 1500 b/f of poplar, alder, maple and other odds and ends.  That 
is a load in itself.  Then there is the tractor.  It's a New Holland 
TC30 with a loader and backhoe.  They backhoe could be removed and moved 
separately as it adds quite a bit of length and a not insubstantial 
amount of weight to the load.  And that is just the SHOP stuff.  The 
tractor and accessories will require towing down with the trailer; I 
just don't see any way around it.  At least I can take the bucket off 
the front and put a set of forks on it, for moving stuff on the other end.

On 4/14/2015 11:38 AM, David Hillman wrote:
> I think there's a whole bunch of relevant detail omitted here.  What 
> kind of trailer?  How old?  Does it have brakes?  What kind?  How 
> heavy is it empty?  How much weight are you planning to load into it?  
> Does your truck have a brake controller?  If not, you're going to want 
> to install a Tekonsha Prodigy
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 08:51:25 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That tractor isn't too bad.  According to TractorData.com your TC30 weighs
2200# for the bare tractor.  Figure another ~1000# for the loader and a bit
less for the backhoe.  I suspect that you're right around 4000# for the
setup unless you've loaded the tires or added some other ballast you
haven't mentioned.

For the move you're talking about, I'd get the Penske truck with the
lift-gate and move all the equipment on pallets like you've described.  It
will be well worth your money to have easy loading and unloading and
one-and-done on the trip.  Having everything covered is a huge bonus.

Just about any car trailer would haul your tractor, although I'd try to
find something a bit heavier-duty (i.e. 10k# GVWR instead of 7k#).  I just
ordered a trailer in part to haul my tractor (A JD 2032R, so the same class
as yours but a touch lighter) and ended up going with a 14k# low-profile
tilt-deck because the cost (both empty weight and $$$) to step up to 14k#
was minimal.  If you happen to be making this move from anywhere near Grand
Rapids, MI you can use that to haul your tractor and all the implements.

Good luck with the move!  We just moved 25 miles and it wasn't easy.  I can
only imagine the stress of pulling up stakes to head across the country!

Regards,

-Paul

On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 10:44 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
wrote:

> All excellent points.  As of now, I don't have a trailer, I am just
> exploring options.  I may rent the largest flatbed that UHaul rents for a
> couple of one way trips, or I may just rent a large Ryder with a lift gate
> and be done with it.  That, however, won't solve the problem of the tractor.
>
> Most of the heavy stuff consists of vintage cast iron woodworking power
> tools:  18" Powermatic planer, Delta 12/14" TS, Powermatic 10" TS,  two
> shapers, wide belt sander, RAS, edge sander, drill presses, tenoner,
> mortiser, couple of medium size band saws.  I will palletize everything
> that isn't on skids, and already have a pallet jack and will rent a
> forklift.  I can determine the weight of each machine from the vendor
> literature, and will calculate the footprint to determine how much I can
> get on the truck or trailer.  That will be at least two trailer loads,
> probably.  Then all of the other shop stuff, workbenches, portable tools,
> supplies and so on are another trip.  Then my hardwood supply, probably
> 1500 b/f of poplar, alder, maple and other odds and ends.  That is a load
> in itself.  Then there is the tractor.  It's a New Holland TC30 with a
> loader and backhoe.  They backhoe could be removed and moved separately as
> it adds quite a bit of length and a not insubstantial amount of weight to
> the load.  And that is just the SHOP stuff.  The tractor and accessories
> will require towing down with the trailer; I just don't see any way around
> it.  At least I can take the bucket off the front and put a set of forks on
> it, for moving stuff on the other end.
>
> On 4/14/2015 11:38 AM, David Hillman wrote:
>
>> I think there's a whole bunch of relevant detail omitted here.  What kind
>> of trailer?  How old?  Does it have brakes?  What kind?  How heavy is it
>> empty?  How much weight are you planning to load into it?  Does your truck
>> have a brake controller?  If not, you're going to want to install a
>> Tekonsha Prodigy
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
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From: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have moved several times, from local to cross-country.  In some ways, 
the long distance is easier, because with short distances, you end up 
making many, many trips.  On a long distance move, you are forced to do 
it more efficiently.  Also, there is more incentive to weed out things 
you don't really need (none of the shop stuff, of course!).  We actually 
left all our living room furniture for the kids to use in their 
apartments, and were 'forced' to buy new when we got to the new house.

Mike

On 4/16/2015 5:51 AM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
>
> Good luck with the move!  We just moved 25 miles and it wasn't easy.  I can
> only imagine the stress of pulling up stakes to head across the country!
>
> Regards,
>
> -Paul
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 12:27:45 -0500
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would second the box truck with lift gate.
Compare fuel costs for your truck (along with wear and tear) vs rental 
and mileage, plus the value of your time, especially during a stressful 
move.
I have done moves both ways, and the box truck sure makes it easier, 
even when it has cost more.

The only time that moving by personal vehicle worked out better was when 
I was making multiple trips to work on the property already and did not 
have room for stuff yet.

Also my favorite box truck trick if you have room, make it a walk in 
closet, run a bar or two across the truck to hang all your clothes on.
Just hang them up, drive and then walk them into your new closets.

Matt

On 4/16/2015 7:51 AM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
> That tractor isn't too bad.  According to TractorData.com your TC30 weighs
> 2200# for the bare tractor.  Figure another ~1000# for the loader and a bit
> less for the backhoe.  I suspect that you're right around 4000# for the
> setup unless you've loaded the tires or added some other ballast you
> haven't mentioned.
>
> For the move you're talking about, I'd get the Penske truck with the
> lift-gate and move all the equipment on pallets like you've described.  It
> will be well worth your money to have easy loading and unloading and
> one-and-done on the trip.  Having everything covered is a huge bonus.
>
> Just about any car trailer would haul your tractor, although I'd try to
> find something a bit heavier-duty (i.e. 10k# GVWR instead of 7k#).  I just
> ordered a trailer in part to haul my tractor (A JD 2032R, so the same class
> as yours but a touch lighter) and ended up going with a 14k# low-profile
> tilt-deck because the cost (both empty weight and $$$) to step up to 14k#
> was minimal.  If you happen to be making this move from anywhere near Grand
> Rapids, MI you can use that to haul your tractor and all the implements.
>
> Good luck with the move!  We just moved 25 miles and it wasn't easy.  I can
> only imagine the stress of pulling up stakes to head across the country!
>
> Regards,
>
> -Paul
>

-- 
Matt Wehland
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 18:27:20 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I query the group for any composite decking expertise/advice.

Background:
My wife wants me to build a deck off the back of the pool near the SHOP.  She
is seeking a good location for afternoon sun as her normal spot gets shaded.
I figure I will use some manner of composite decking, seeking a durable, long
lasting surface with minimal upkeep.
I think I am good to go on the general deck construction, but I am finding
that there are many options for the decking.
Years ago a good friend made an expensive mistake when he bought something
maybe then 30% less costly than the top of the line option and within 3-4
years he said it just fell apart.  It swelled, it sagged, it was terrible.  He
tore it all out and started over with top of the line trex and while costly,
it has held up well.

I have done some reading on WPC (wood plastic composites) in general and it
sounds like they are now claiming "second generation" status, building on some
of the lessons learned.  Apparently Trex has spent a lot of $$ replacing decks
and no longer advertises their product as "maintenance free".  They found
mildew staining to be a recurring problem.  One of the solutions is a "capped"
product that uses a WPC core but a more plastic covering to reduce some of the
staining/variability of the wood fibers.

 I have an existing deck on the back of the house that needs attention.  I was
thinking I would just re-deck with whatever I use on the new construction.
But it occurred to me that the existing deck is still solid, but no longer
aesthetically pleasing.   Would simply overlaying the existing deck with new
WPC decking be a viable option?

Finally, there seems to be a wide variety of fastener systems.  From the
material paired hidden systems to options like Cortex that still goes down
through the material but hides behind plugs and uses cutter/driver bits.

So specifically I am looking for
1)  recommendations on material.

2)  thoughts on overdecking

3)  recommendations on fastener systems.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Matt Barre
Columbus GA  -  dampness/mildew is as much of a threat as UV here.


____________________________________________________________
Forget the iPhone 6
1 little-known Apple supplier holds wealth-changing growth potential.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/552fff651c5137f653cb7st02vuc
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 16 16:09:29 2015
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Matt'" <mbarre@juno.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20150416.142720.29336.4@webmail05.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 16:57:30 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
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One thing about most if not all composite decking is that it needs more
support. Check the installation instructions for the products you are
considering. With wood decks you can usually go 2' on center with the
framing. Offhand I can't remember what brand decking we put in, but it said
16" max. In the high load area where we entertain, we went with 12" on
center. When I remember what we used I'll repost. The fasteners we used were
stainless steel square drive screws. They mushroomed up a little around the
screws, but that didn't bother us. We've had the deck for almost 3 years and
it is doing fine.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2015 1:27 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking

I query the group for any composite decking expertise/advice.

Background:
My wife wants me to build a deck off the back of the pool near the SHOP.
She is seeking a good location for afternoon sun as her normal spot gets
shaded.
I figure I will use some manner of composite decking, seeking a durable,
long lasting surface with minimal upkeep.
I think I am good to go on the general deck construction, but I am finding
that there are many options for the decking.
Years ago a good friend made an expensive mistake when he bought something
maybe then 30% less costly than the top of the line option and within 3-4
years he said it just fell apart.  It swelled, it sagged, it was terrible.
He tore it all out and started over with top of the line trex and while
costly, it has held up well.

<snip>

So specifically I am looking for
1)  recommendations on material.

2)  thoughts on overdecking

3)  recommendations on fastener systems.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Matt Barre
Columbus GA  -  dampness/mildew is as much of a threat as UV here.


____________________________________________________________
Forget the iPhone 6
1 little-known Apple supplier holds wealth-changing growth potential.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/552fff651c5137f653cb7st02vuc
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 16 18:10:48 2015
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 16:53:10 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>,  "Shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <552ACBA2.9060301@frontier.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1504131327280.2754@itonami.pair.com>
 <552C892E.3050608@frontier.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Axle ratio?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

David - On the tractor, you might want to see about finding someone to 
haul that for you.  It's been a long time for me so don't have details 
anymore, but I needed some 3 pallets from PA to CA and had no urgency.  
We worked with a shipping place that held the load for a convenient 
truck with room and got a big discount.

I'd expect there are places to list a load online and look for a bargain 
from someone with an empty trailer returning home.

For the tools, I second the idea of renting an enclosed truck. Think 
about trying to keep all the tools dry if you hit some rain or security 
if you park overnight.  The truck may also have the ability to pull a 
trailer for the tractor, but be sure to talk about the loads with a 
smart person at the rental place.

Brian

On 4/15/2015 7:44 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> All excellent points.  As of now, I don't have a trailer, I am just 
> exploring options.  I may rent the largest flatbed that UHaul rents 
> for a couple of one way trips, or I may just rent a large Ryder with a 
> lift gate and be done with it.  That, however, won't solve the problem 
> of the tractor.
>
> Most of the heavy stuff consists of vintage cast iron woodworking 
> power tools:  18" Powermatic planer, Delta 12/14" TS, Powermatic 10" 
> TS,  two shapers, wide belt sander, RAS, edge sander, drill presses, 
> tenoner, mortiser, couple of medium size band saws.  I will palletize 
> everything that isn't on skids, and already have a pallet jack and 
> will rent a forklift.  I can determine the weight of each machine from 
> the vendor literature, and will calculate the footprint to determine 
> how much I can get on the truck or trailer.  That will be at least two 
> trailer loads, probably.  Then all of the other shop stuff, 
> workbenches, portable tools, supplies and so on are another trip.  
> Then my hardwood supply, probably 1500 b/f of poplar, alder, maple and 
> other odds and ends.  That is a load in itself.  Then there is the 
> tractor.  It's a New Holland TC30 with a loader and backhoe.  They 
> backhoe could be removed and moved separately as it adds quite a bit 
> of length and a not insubstantial amount of weight to the load.  And 
> that is just the SHOP stuff.  The tractor and accessories will require 
> towing down with the trailer; I just don't see any way around it.  At 
> least I can take the bucket off the front and put a set of forks on 
> it, for moving stuff on the other end.
>
> On 4/14/2015 11:38 AM, David Hillman wrote:
>> I think there's a whole bunch of relevant detail omitted here.  What 
>> kind of trailer?  How old?  Does it have brakes?  What kind?  How 
>> heavy is it empty?  How much weight are you planning to load into 
>> it?  Does your truck have a brake controller?  If not, you're going 
>> to want to install a Tekonsha Prodigy
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 16 21:23:49 2015
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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 20:05:29 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <20150416.142720.29336.4@webmail05.vgs.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I live in the Pacific Northwest.  At our first house my BIL and I built 
a conventional PT/cedar deck. I had to pressure wash it every year and 
stain it at least every couple of years, and it still needed major 
repairs after 15 years.

About 15 years ago we build our present house.  We had a contractor 
install a TimberTech deck and it has been flawless.  I pressure wash it 
every couple of years and that's it.  Points to consider:

Yes, you will need to put your joists 12" OC.  The stuff needs much more 
support than conventional lumber.
Our deck is screwed together with SS deck screws.  Pre drilling is 
mandatory.
The stuff is slick.  There is a learning curve with regards to 
crosscuting it with a chop saw.  It wants to move around.  There was a 
lot of cursing on the contractor's part during assembly of the fiddly bits.
Sorry; I don't have any ideas regarding over decking.


On 4/16/2015 11:27 AM, Matt wrote:
>   specifically I am looking for
> 1)  recommendations on material.
>
> 2)  thoughts on overdecking
>
> 3)  recommendations on fastener systems.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 23:13:55 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 1:27 PM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

rs.
>
>  I have an existing deck on the back of the house that needs attention.  I was
> thinking I would just re-deck with whatever I use on the new construction.
> But it occurred to me that the existing deck is still solid, but no longer
> aesthetically pleasing.   Would simply overlaying the existing deck with new
> WPC decking be a viable option?

Do you mean literally putting new deck boards on the existing boards,
as is done with asphalt shingles?
Or do you mean rip the decking off, and replace it, using the existing
structure?

The first is a bad idea.  The second is potentially okay; it depends
on the structure being in good shape (it often is), and being suitable
for the new material (as others have noted, the composite stuff isn't
as strong, and requires more support), and there not having been some
change in the local code that requires change or replacement.
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 08:24:05 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Matt,

I would be very careful in selecting the brand of composite decking.  When
we built a deck in 2004, the contractor swore that he had great results
from Geodeck...they are now out of business and you can read some of the
horror stories on ConsumerReports
<http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/home-garden/home-improvement/decking/decking-material-ratings/models/overview/geodeck-tongue-and-groove-99014034.htm>
.

Some issues we had, and to be on the lookout with any vendor, include:
-- composites have much different thermal and water expansion properties.
Our deck was in the sun and the 16' boards would lengthen about a 1/32"
every foot in the heat of summer -- yes, that is about 1/2" on a 16'
board!  Our fascia was nailed up to the ends of the boards with an 1/8" gap
and quickly became warped and had to be replaced.
-- the fasteners were hidden, went through the tongue, and were covered by
the next board.  With the expansion of the boards, they simply could not
hold them in place and large gaps opened up in the boards.  We had to
face-screw them.
-- the boards had channels that held water and had the usual problems where
water is held, mildew, freeze/thaw, etc.

- Ian
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 12:41:07 GMT
To: dmscheidt@gmail.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone for the feedback.  Good info.


Dave,
Asphalt shingles is exactly what I was thinking about.

I consider that application ill advised due to heat, weight, and the
additional mess when it actually gets done right.
But what makes it a bad idea for a deck?
I was thinking about orienting the boards 90 degrees to the existing.  Support
definitely wouldn't be an issue.



Matt


---------- Original Message ----------
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>

Do you mean literally putting new deck boards on the existing boards,
as is done with asphalt shingles?


The first is a bad idea.
--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 08:24:35 -0500
References: <20150417.084107.28245.0@webmail05.vgs.untd.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> On Apr 17, 2015, at 07:41, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the feedback.  Good info.
>
>
> Dave,
> Asphalt shingles is exactly what I was thinking about.
>
> I consider that application ill advised due to heat, weight, and the
additional mess when it actually gets done right.
> But what makes it a bad idea for a deck?
> I was thinking about orienting the boards 90 degrees to the existing.
Support definitely wouldn't be an

Two to start with. First, the deck was not likely designed with more than
double the dead load of the planking in mind.  Wind load will do a number on
it.
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 09:27:10 -0500
From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We had some landscaping done last year and one of the guys also did deck
work.  He told me he had installed a composite deck for a customer.  It was
a huge deck and cost about $25k.  The decking retained much more heat than
wood and it was so hot they couldn't use it.  The customer replaced it  few
years later with wood.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 17 10:56:32 2015
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 16:38:17 GMT
To: dmscheidt@gmail.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I AM TAKING CARE OF MY
PROCRASTINATION ISSUES
Just you wait & see!


Professional Fl&#65533;neur

AGE RES PROPRIAS TUAS

MOLON LABE




 Certainly 2 good, logical reasons.

On For my application, I don't think the weight will be a major factor as it
is overbuilt and only 1-2 feet above grade,
but moisture is a concern.  There isn't much airflow  around it now so it
would be even less with a layer op plastic on top.




---------- Original Message ----------
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Composite Decking
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 08:24:35 -0500



> On Apr 17, 2015, at 07:41, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the feedback.  Good info.
>
>
> Dave,
> Asphalt shingles is exactly what I was thinking about.
>
> I consider that application ill advised due to heat, weight, and the
additional mess when it actually gets done right.
> But what makes it a bad idea for a deck?
> I was thinking about orienting the boards 90 degrees to the existing.
Support definitely wouldn't be an

Two to start with. First, the deck was not likely designed with more than
double the dead load of the planking in mind.  Wind load will do a number on
it.

Second, you'll trap water between the layers, and encourage rot.
____________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 17 11:56:31 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 13:18:37 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/17/2015 13:18:39, Serialize complete at
 04/17/2015 13:18:39
Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hello,

The SO's car is a Toyota MR2 Spider  (05).  She doesn't drive it alot and 
it sat all winter in WV under a carport roof.

Now, the brakes are making some noise and the car isn't stopping properly 
(it takes longer to stop and there is speed related intermittent noise.)

Here is the weird part, I know that rotors can get rusty without use, and 
that is most likely what happened here.  The problem is that even after 
lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks 
like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.

So, I was planning on flushing the brake fluid and driving it some more to 
see if that take care of the problem.  OR do I need to put new rotors on 
this car?  The pads still have plenty of meat on them.

SO is returning to WV on Weds, so I need to do this quick.  What's the 
wisdom here think is the safest option? (Toyota rotors are ridiculously 
over priced and don't want to replace all four if I don't need to.)

Here are two photos of the rotors...
>http://tinyurl.com/weirdrotor<


Thanks!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 17 12:46:12 2015
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:30:01 -0400
References: <OFC5A8F269.9DCA04C9-ON85257E2A.005E575C-85257E2A.0060DDBA@mail.megageek.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Apr 17, 2015, at 1:18 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> The problem is that even after
> lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks
> like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.

You may be SOL given the time constraint, but you may have answered yourself-
if the outer pads aren't working, not only will you have less braking power,
but they won't be wiping the rotors clean. Sound like the pistons froze up, or
the caliper isn't floating on its pins.

Have the calipers ever been replaced/rebuilt? If not I'd bite the bullet
replace everything. Esp in the mountains of WV.

jim
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:31:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFC5A8F269.9DCA04C9-ON85257E2A.005E575C-85257E2A.0060DDBA@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> So, I was planning on flushing the brake fluid and driving it some more to
> see if that take care of the problem.  OR do I need to put new rotors on
> this car?  The pads still have plenty of meat on them.

    All my experience is with the first two generations of MR2, of which 
I've had 12, but I don't expect the Spyder is all that different.  I 
doubt seriously there's anything wrong with your rotors.  I doubt 
changing the fluid -- while not a bad idea in general -- will fix 
anything.

    Before spending any money, I would pull the pads from each caliper, and 
reinstall... making sure that the spring-clips are in place ( 2 per 
caliper ) and that the pads can move enough and didn't rust into place 
over the winter, and that there's plenty of grease on the sliding pin in 
each caliper.  If you have an assistant, while you have the wheel off 
each corner, I would have them apply the brakes and make sure the 
piston(s) move.

    It sounds to me like you have a mechanical ( as opposed to hydraulic ) 
issue preventing the pads from properly gripping the rotors.

> SO is returning to WV on Weds, so I need to do this quick.  What's the
> wisdom here think is the safest option? (Toyota rotors are ridiculously
> over priced and don't want to replace all four if I don't need to.)

    I never found MR2 rotors expensive at all.  Partsgeek.com has Spyder 
rotors for $15.44/ea.

<http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/8096-05052838.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=2000-2005+Toyota+MR2+Spyder+Brake+Rotor+Pronto+BR31298+Rear+00-05+Toyota+Brake+Rotor+2002+04&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CPuSlcH7_cQCFZCLaQodvSMA2A>

--
  David Hillman
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References: <OFC5A8F269.9DCA04C9-ON85257E2A.005E575C-85257E2A.0060DDBA@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:07:46 -0500
From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like the Pistons could be sticking.  Maybe take the pads out
and tap on the Pistons to see if they free up.  I've found that NAPA has
really good prices for rotors for the 2nd gen but I haven't priced them for
Spyders.


On Friday, April 17, 2015, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> The SO's car is a Toyota MR2 Spider  (05).  She doesn't drive it alot and
> it sat all winter in WV under a carport roof.
>
> Now, the brakes are making some noise and the car isn't stopping properly
> (it takes longer to stop and there is speed related intermittent noise.)
>
> Here is the weird part, I know that rotors can get rusty without use, and
> that is most likely what happened here.  The problem is that even after
> lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks
> like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.
>
> So, I was planning on flushing the brake fluid and driving it some more to
> see if that take care of the problem.  OR do I need to put new rotors on
> this car?  The pads still have plenty of meat on them.
>
> SO is returning to WV on Weds, so I need to do this quick.  What's the
> wisdom here think is the safest option? (Toyota rotors are ridiculously
> over priced and don't want to replace all four if I don't need to.)
>
> Here are two photos of the rotors...
> >http://tinyurl.com/weirdrotor<
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 17 13:27:39 2015
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:14:46 -0500
References: <OFC5A8F269.9DCA04C9-ON85257E2A.005E575C-85257E2A.0060DDBA@mail.megageek.com>
 FILETIME=[C4E63CD0:01D07942]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Having owned and worked on the brakes for an Avalon, a Solara and a
Highlander, all I can offer is my personal experience that     Toyota
brakes   suck; especially the rears. I've had rear rotors get ruined in less
than 5000 miles because the calipers that were fine suddenly failed/locked up.
And this has happened on all three vehicles. I am not talking about vehicles
that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them either. The Avalon did this
practically right out of the box. Not sure what you pay for rotors, but
AdvanceAuto has better prices on rotors than the other two FLAPS that I use.
And Advance has their speed perks that gives nice discounts via your email. I
never got any discounts or coupons from CARQUEST.  good lucktim

> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> From: eric@megageek.com
> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 13:18:37 -0400
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
>
> Hello,
>
> The SO's car is a Toyota MR2 Spider  (05).  She doesn't drive it alot and
> it sat all winter in WV under a carport roof.
>
> Now, the brakes are making some noise and the car isn't stopping properly
> (it takes longer to stop and there is speed related intermittent noise.)
>
> Here is the weird part, I know that rotors can get rusty without use, and
> that is most likely what happened here.  The problem is that even after
> lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks
> like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.
>
> So, I was planning on flushing the brake fluid and driving it some more to
> see if that take care of the problem.  OR do I need to put new rotors on
> this car?  The pads still have plenty of meat on them.
>
> SO is returning to WV on Weds, so I need to do this quick.  What's the
> wisdom here think is the safest option? (Toyota rotors are ridiculously
> over priced and don't want to replace all four if I don't need to.)
>
> Here are two photos of the rotors...
> >http://tinyurl.com/weirdrotor<
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 17 13:27:58 2015
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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 12:17:25 -0700
From: Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
 FILETIME=[07B5D070:01D07943]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

The smaller braking area is typical of (salt) corrosion working it's way in
from the perimeter.  Replace the rotors with aftermarket If Toyota is too
pricy.  You now have a reduced braking area.

Jack

--- Original Message ---

From: eric@megageek.com
Sent: April 17, 2015 11:02 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue

Hello,

The SO's car is a Toyota MR2 Spider  (05).  She doesn't drive it alot and
it sat all winter in WV under a carport roof.

Now, the brakes are making some noise and the car isn't stopping properly
(it takes longer to stop and there is speed related intermittent noise.)

Here is the weird part, I know that rotors can get rusty without use, and
that is most likely what happened here.  The problem is that even after
lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks
like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.

So, I was planning on flushing the brake fluid and driving it some more to
see if that take care of the problem.  OR do I need to put new rotors on
this car?  The pads still have plenty of meat on them.

SO is returning to WV on Weds, so I need to do this quick.  What's the
wisdom here think is the safest option? (Toyota rotors are ridiculously
over priced and don't want to replace all four if I don't need to.)

Here are two photos of the rotors...
>http://tinyurl.com/weirdrotor<


Thanks!


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:30:20 +0000 (UTC)
From: Obaa <obaa996@yahoo.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Installing Time-sert into an engine case?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I recently bought an older ('01) Ducati 900 2V, which has the kickstand bolted
directly to the aluminum engine case.
The kickstand is held on by two M10x1.5 bolts, which extend 20mm into the
case. B The kickstand was wobbly, so I inspected it and found that the outer
10mm of threads in the engine case mounting points are stripped out; the inner
threads seem okay. B The mounting points themselves are ~27mm deep blind
holes, and are ~18mm machined round bosses (I'm guessing machined square to
the bore in order to act as the mounting surface for the kickstand).
My options for repairing this seem to be:1) Loctite form-a-thread (epoxy):
this didn't seem strong enough2) heli-coils: I'm not sure that I trust the
strength/durability of heli-coils as I've seen a couple break before.3)
Keen-serts: the deepest Keen-sert I could find was 14mm.
Which leaves me with Time-serts. B I think they should be the strongest, and
they are available with the correct 20mm depth insert, but I worried about
getting them installed properly. B I've heard that the holes have to be
drilled very accurately for the insert to hold properly; this would be tough
to do with the bike assembled. B (Also, I think the insert itself is
externally threaded with an English thread, which would leave me buggered if
the insert didn't work)
I'm trying to come up with a way to ensure that I drill the holes properly
(squarely) into the case. B I was thinking to get appropriately sized drill
bushings, such
asB http://www.amazon.com/I-D-Drill-Standard-Press-Bushing/dp/B002RLJ5WEB To
hold the bushings aligned to the case during the drilling, I was going to
"super-glue" them to the case, and then remove when done by either a sharp
side-ways blow (shear them off the case), or dousing them with acetone to
dissolve the bond.
Does this seem like it would work?B 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:52:12 -0500
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.6.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <BAY402-EAS3719B12DF5E51EE5142C05A8E30@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Only experience with one Toyota, 2009 Corolla, bought because I was 
tired of working on cars to get to work.

~33,000 miles and the brakes weren't working right.
Pads were worn, completely unevenly.
Calipers were stuck, pins rusted.
Not a big deal, but on a new car with that low of mileage?

As suggested check that the calipers are moving freely, grease the pins 
good.


Good Luck.

Matt
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 16:45:56 -0400
References: <680200762.5386032.1429299020268.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing Time-sert into an engine case?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Apr 17, 2015, at 3:30 PM, Obaa <obaa996@yahoo.com> wrote:

> (Also, I think the insert itself is
> externally threaded with an English thread, which would leave me buggered
if
> the insert didn't work)

Couldn't you just drill out the sidestand mounting plate and use bolts that
match the timesert thread if this happened?

> I'm trying to come up with a way to ensure that I drill the holes properly
> (squarely) into the case.

I don't think this is a critical as you say, for this application. There is
nothing that the timesert references external to the hole, so the hole can be
off by a bit.

> B I was thinking to get appropriately sized drill
> bushings, such
> asB http://www.amazon.com/I-D-Drill-Standard-Press-Bushing/dp/B002RLJ5WEB
To
> hold the bushings aligned to the case during the drilling, I was going to
> "super-glue" them to the case, and then remove when done by either a sharp
> side-ways blow (shear them off the case), or dousing them with acetone to
> dissolve the bond.
> Does this seem like it would work?B

I'd be worried about the bushing either coming loose from drilling, or not
coming off at all, etc. Have you glued steel to aluminum before?

How about using the sidestand itself as a drill guide?

jim
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References: <OFC5A8F269.9DCA04C9-ON85257E2A.005E575C-85257E2A.0060DDBA@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:23:11 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is that a rear rotor?  Well, look at this one, that I took off my '98
Outback last year:

http://www.dougbraun.com/pix/subaru_rotor.jpg

That's the inside surface of the rear rotor.  The outside was more-or-less
decent looking, and the pads were fine, but
the brakes were getting more and more vibration.  The photo was taken after
lots of large scaly chunks of rust were knocked off.

The car was driven regularly, but always lived outside.

Doug


On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 1:18 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> The SO's car is a Toyota MR2 Spider  (05).  She doesn't drive it alot and
> it sat all winter in WV under a carport roof.
>
> Now, the brakes are making some noise and the car isn't stopping properly
> (it takes longer to stop and there is speed related intermittent noise.)
>
> Here is the weird part, I know that rotors can get rusty without use, and
> that is most likely what happened here.  The problem is that even after
> lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks
> like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:35:25 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Mice?
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Or voles, or field mice.  Small rodents are trying to nest in the engine 
compartment of my 2004 Sierra (the previous subject of towing a bunch of 
iron to Utah from Washington).  Last week when I popped the hood a mouse 
was standing on the fan shroud just staring at me, then it wandered down 
to the extensive nest it had made above the left cylinder bank.  I 
vacuumed/blew the nest material out and went about my project of trying 
to determine the axle ratio/engine size. Today I moved the truck out of 
the shop and into the driveway and when I got out of the truck a mouse 
ran out of the engine compartment and into the shrubbery.  The engine 
smells like mouse pee, but I can't find any new nest.  I hosed the top 
of the engine block down with Lysol, but I need to find something to 
keep the mice away, if possible.  Any ideas?  I really don't want to 
have them get into the cab.  A few years ago they got into the ac/heat 
fan blower cage of my wife's Forester and THAT was a mess to clean out 
because they had babies.  Unfortunately they didn't survive cycling the 
fan a few times, and Subaru made the fan modular so it was pretty simple 
to get out once I figured out how.

So any ideas on rodent repellant?  I have already asked my wife to have 
our pest control contractor come out and put bait stations in the shop, 
but that might not be enough.

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 20:39:44 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mice?
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> So any ideas on rodent repellant?  I have already asked my 
> wife to have 
> our pest control contractor come out and put bait stations in 
> the shop, 
> but that might not be enough.

I use the soft green solid type bait, and put blocks out in any areas where I particularly don't want rodents.  Seems like they
usually learn to avoid the stuff, at least I haven't found any bodies for a long time, but it sure keeps them away.  Although I've
not tried it, you could probably tie a block on a string somewhere under the hood.

The little trays with the pellets don't seem to work nearly as well.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 04:19:33 +0000 (UTC)
From: ROBERT LANE <robolane@sbcglobal.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>,  "Shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <89.E7.19825.CF1D1355@cdptpa-oedge03>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mice?
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PeppermintB  is supposed to hated by mice and keep keeps them away.B B  Check
it out on the Internet.B B CATCH YOU LATER,B B  B  ROBO


     On Friday, April 17, 2015 11:05 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:


 > So any ideas on rodent repellant?B  I have already asked my
> wife to have
> our pest control contractor come out and put bait stations in
> the shop,
> but that might not be enough.

I use the soft green solid type bait, and put blocks out in any areas where I
particularly don't want rodents.B  Seems like they
usually learn to avoid the stuff, at least I haven't found any bodies for a
long time, but it sure keeps them away.B  Although I've
not tried it, you could probably tie a block on a string somewhere under the
hood.

The little trays with the pellets don't seem to work nearly as well.

-- RandallB 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/robolane@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 18 07:45:08 2015
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>, Shop Talk
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 08:30:07 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mice?
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The decon pellets definitely don't work all that well. I had trays in the
garage and shop a few years ago. They got emptied  but I never found any
bodies. Turns out the little bastards were taking the stuff and storing it for
later..... I had an engine for the Datsun on the stand over that winter. When
I started the disassembly process that spring the water pump was full of decon
pellets. The little bastards.

Moth balls and dryer sheets work as well.

good luck

> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:35:25 -0700
> From: cavanadd@frontier.com
> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Mice?
>
> Or voles, or field mice.  Small rodents are trying to nest in the engine
> compartment of my 2004 Sierra (the previous subject of towing a bunch of
> iron to Utah from Washington).  Last week when I popped the hood a mouse
> was standing on the fan shroud just staring at me, then it wandered down
> to the extensive nest it had made above the left cylinder bank.  I
> vacuumed/blew the nest material out and went about my project of trying
> to determine the axle ratio/engine size. Today I moved the truck out of
> the shop and into the driveway and when I got out of the truck a mouse
> ran out of the engine compartment and into the shrubbery.  The engine
> smells like mouse pee, but I can't find any new nest.  I hosed the top
> of the engine block down with Lysol, but I need to find something to
> keep the mice away, if possible.  Any ideas?  I really don't want to
> have them get into the cab.  A few years ago they got into the ac/heat
> fan blower cage of my wife's Forester and THAT was a mess to clean out
> because they had babies.  Unfortunately they didn't survive cycling the
> fan a few times, and Subaru made the fan modular so it was pretty simple
> to get out once I figured out how.
>
> So any ideas on rodent repellant?  I have already asked my wife to have
> our pest control contractor come out and put bait stations in the shop,
> but that might not be enough.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 19 07:52:29 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2015 09:21:20 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/19/2015 09:21:25, Serialize complete at
 04/19/2015 09:21:25
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mice?
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Dave asks about pest control...

Dave, here is what I use...

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/tomcatreg%3B-rat-and-mouse-place-pacs-22-piece-pail-3-oz-each

It really cheap. Don't worry about getting the 'stations'.  Just put these 
blocks in or near where you are having a problem.  Put them in a 'harder 
to reach' area if you have other animals that you like.

I live in the country where mice and rats love to get into my trailers/ 
barns/ etc.  This stuff solved the problem.

I believe that once they eat it, they look for water (IE, leave the 
house/car) and when they drink it expands and kills them.  So no dead 
critters IN the house to smell.

I'm not sure that is how these work, but since I've been using them, I 
don't have an critter problems and I had to start feeding the stray cats 
cause there isn't enough 'mices' for them to eat.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2015 17:03:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gordie Bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <5531C2ED.8080506@frontier.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mice?
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I've found Contrac blocks to be about the best...buy a multi-yr supply at www.domyownpestcontrol.com, here http://tinyurl.com/pqz4qud . 
Pro pest guy once told me blocks prevent their ability to move and store before ingesting. 
Last winter particularly bad here (Michigan) for some reason, but with blocks had none in garage, house, or shed. Tried for the AC unit, but died doing so. 

HTH 
Gordie 

----- Original Message -----

From: eric@megageek.com 
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net 
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2015 9:21:20 AM 
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mice? 

Dave asks about pest control... 

Dave, here is what I use... 

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/tomcatreg%3B-rat-and-mouse-place-pacs-22-piece-pail-3-oz-each 

It really cheap. Don't worry about getting the 'stations'. Just put these 
blocks in or near where you are having a problem. Put them in a 'harder 
to reach' area if you have other animals that you like. 

I live in the country where mice and rats love to get into my trailers/ 
barns/ etc. This stuff solved the problem. 

I believe that once they eat it, they look for water (IE, leave the 
house/car) and when they drink it expands and kills them. So no dead 
critters IN the house to smell. 

I'm not sure that is how these work, but since I've been using them, I 
don't have an critter problems and I had to start feeding the stray cats 
cause there isn't enough 'mices' for them to eat. 


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem. 
Eric P 
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________ 

Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 16:36:02 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Johnson Controls A-4210-1 line dryer
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey all,

A few years ago I bought one of these line dryers for about a $100 knowing
that it most likely didn't work. (Hell, I don't even know how it would work or
how I'd hook up to it.) It might not be complete but looks like it.

What I'm wondering is does anyone have any experience using one of these? Is
it too much for total amateur hour in my shop? in addition to many air tools,
I have a blast cabinet and would like to learn how to paint.

I hope to find a place to check this thing out and see if it is worth
fixing/reconditioning.

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 10:53:12 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)

I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
infiltration that might lift the seam.

I've seen 5x8 ply mentioned for ping pong tables, but not in exterior grade.

There is 5x8 diamond plate (slippery and expensive), so I'm looking around for
other ideas before I butt 4x8 CDX together.

thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 10:04:07 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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Do some research on MDO (Medium Density Overlay). I've been told that it is
what overhead highway signs are made of. I replaced the front wall of my
enclosed with it a couple years ago and have had no problems with it. You
may be able to find it 5' wide. Where are you located, I forgot!

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Franklin
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 9:53 AM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?

Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)

I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
infiltration that might lift the seam.

I've seen 5x8 ply mentioned for ping pong tables, but not in exterior grade.

There is 5x8 diamond plate (slippery and expensive), so I'm looking around
for other ideas before I butt 4x8 CDX together.

thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 11:48:11 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more 
> supportive
> deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
> infiltration that might lift the seam.

Our contractor used a waterproof tongue & groove particle board type product 
for the sub-floor decking of the room above our garage. I saved the 
cut-offs. It has proved very strong and durable/waterproof. Pieces left 
outside for years have weathered to gray but not otherwise deteriorated.

My flat bed car trailer has pressure treated 2X decking. It is screwed to 
the steel framing with torx drive self-tapping flat head screws.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 24 10:08:43 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 12:13:18 -0400
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
 <010001d07e9f$ea16ffa0$be44fee0$@com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in MA, up near the NH border. I was hoping for something lighter than the
resin board type of things, since I'll be near max weight with the 2 bikes
already. Probably makes sense just to get some CDX and deal with the seam; if
I run it longways at least I reduce mu chances of tripping on it :-)

jim

On Apr 24, 2015, at 11:04 AM, Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com> wrote:

> Do some research on MDO (Medium Density Overlay). I've been told that it is
> what overhead highway signs are made of. I replaced the front wall of my
> enclosed with it a couple years ago and have had no problems with it. You
> may be able to find it 5' wide. Where are you located, I forgot!
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
> Franklin
> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 9:53 AM
> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
>
> Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)
>
> I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
> deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
> infiltration that might lift the seam.
>
> I've seen 5x8 ply mentioned for ping pong tables, but not in exterior
grade.
>
> There is 5x8 diamond plate (slippery and expensive), so I'm looking around
> for other ideas before I butt 4x8 CDX together.
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 11:33:32 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't think a solid bed is a good idea. I'd consider using 2 x 12s, even
though you'd need to figure a way to attach them to the existing decking,
that shouldn't be hard to do. We have a 5 x 10 trailer that was originally
decked with untreated 2 x 12s. Over several years the back end of those
rotted away. When I replaced them I used treated 2 x 12s, primed and
painted on all sides and the ends, before I put them down. Wasn't real
cheap, but not terribly expensive either. No issues since and they're a
solid base for pretty much anything I want to put in the trailer. I left a
nail width cap between the boards so water wouldn't sit on the bed.

FWIW

On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 9:53 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
wrote:

> Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)
>
> I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
> deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
> infiltration that might lift the seam.
>
> I've seen 5x8 ply mentioned for ping pong tables, but not in exterior
> grade.
>
> There is 5x8 diamond plate (slippery and expensive), so I'm looking around
> for
> other ideas before I butt 4x8 CDX together.
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 24 10:39:17 2015
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 12:34:23 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

By mesh do you mean expanded metal?  You know, that is available in 
different mesh sizes and metal gauges.  Also, perhaps you just need a 
bit more support under the floor.  Or perhaps you can add channels 
for the motorcycles themselves, like 
this:  http://www.nealtrailermfg.com/triplemot.html.  That one is for 
three, but you could do two if that's what you need.

-Steve T.

At 10:53 AM 4/24/2015, Jim Franklin wrote:
>Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)
>
>I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
>deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
>infiltration that might lift the seam.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 15:48:50 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 9:53 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)
>
> I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
> deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
> infiltration that might lift the seam.
>
> I've seen 5x8 ply mentioned for ping pong tables, but not in exterior grade.
>

5X8 and 5X10 are standard sizes for BS1066 marine plywood.  They'll
cost more (maybe much more), than the equivalent area in 4X8 sheets.
If carrying the bikes is the only reason for upgrading, I'd think hard
about a solution that just adds the support for the bikes.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 17:08:23 -0400
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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On Apr 24, 2015, at 4:48 PM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> 5X8 and 5X10 are standard sizes for BS1066 marine plywood.  They'll
> cost more (maybe much more), than the equivalent area in 4X8 sheets.
> If carrying the bikes is the only reason for upgrading, I'd think hard
> about a solution that just adds the support for the bikes.

This is the trailer. The mesh floor is barely strong enough to support me,
plus it lets in all the road spray/debris/etc. I'm at the very least going to
cover it with CDX, if I don't find anything better, since I also use it to
haul misc stuff, which right now requires a lot of "position engineering" so
the weight is on the crossmembers.

Your suggestion had me look at a few marine forums, and people asking the same
question were told to laminate their own from 3/8" (or pay big bucks). I'm not
near enough to the water to make it worth a trip anyway.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/carry-on-trailerreg%3B-5-ft-w-x-8-ft-l-
specialty-single-axle-trailer-1500-lb-payload-capacity

jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 24 16:27:22 2015
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Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 18:21:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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On Fri, 24 Apr 2015, Jim Franklin wrote:
> This is the trailer. The mesh floor is barely strong enough to support me,
> plus it lets in all the road spray/debris/etc. I'm at the very least going to
> cover it with CDX, if I don't find anything better, since I also use it to
> haul misc stuff, which right now requires a lot of "position engineering" so
> the weight is on the crossmembers.

    So, if I understand you correctly, your priorities are a solid, 
weather-resistant, inexpensive and lightweight floor?  That's gonna be 
tough, I think.  You might have to pick two or three.

    For what it's worth, since we're throwing out ideas, I just put a new 
layer of floor in my enclosed 20' car hauler.  The original floor was OSB, 
and not in terrible shape, but stained from various spills by the previous 
owner.  I covered it with 15/32nds plywood, and then coated that 
liberally with Herculiner.

    It wasn't stupid cheap ( although much of the ply was scrap I already 
had and I picked up 3 gallons for $40/ea on craigslist ) and I can't speak 
to the longevity yet as I just did it, but it's an idea.  The trailer had 
rubber coin-pattern interlocking tiles when I got it, but they didn't work 
for my use like I thought they would.  I transport a racecar that is 
almost always covered in ice and snow, so weather-proofing from the inside 
is paramount to me.

    If I were you, I'd probably put two coats of quality exterior paint on 
both sides of some plywood, then install it, and call it good.  In my last 
(enclosed) trailer, I used Behr porch paint on the floor, with play sand 
mixed in for traction.  That worked, too, but I didn't keep it long.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 24 16:56:44 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 18:38:27 -0400
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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On Apr 24, 2015, at 6:21 PM, David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com> wrote:

>  So, if I understand you correctly, your priorities are a solid,
weather-resistant, inexpensive and lightweight floor?

Yes! Exactly! :-)

>   If I were you, I'd probably put two coats of quality exterior paint on
both sides of some plywood, then install it, and call it good.  In my last
(enclosed) trailer, I used Behr porch paint on the floor, with play sand mixed
in for traction.  That worked, too, but I didn't keep it long.

Any thoughts on the longevity of the sand? I will be putting down some kind of
non-skid, and didn't think sand would stay adhered to the paint for long.

jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 24 16:57:09 2015
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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Jim - If you go with plywood, check with a real lumber yard.  I 
purchased 5x8 sheets of 3/4" exterior plywood for my balcony which is 5 
x 45.  It cost more than 4x8, but the time/labor savings of not ripping 
1' sections and blocking for the edges was worth it.

For clarification, the plywood is covered with a metal lath, waterproof 
cement, epoxy, and color/texture layers.

Brian

On 4/24/2015 7:53 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> Been quiet for a few days, don't want the collective to lose it's edge :-)
>
> I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a mesh floor that needs a more supportive
> deck for 2 motorcycles. I'd like to keep it one piece to stop any water
> infiltration that might lift the seam.
>
> I've seen 5x8 ply mentioned for ping pong tables, but not in exterior grade.
>
> There is 5x8 diamond plate (slippery and expensive), so I'm looking around for
> other ideas before I butt 4x8 CDX together.
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 25 10:04:01 2015
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Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2015 11:47:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2085EA86-283E-4893-9BFF-8E98B73376CF@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 5x8 trailer decking ideas?
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On Fri, 24 Apr 2015, Jim Franklin wrote:
> Any thoughts on the longevity of the sand? I will be putting down some kind of
> non-skid, and didn't think sand would stay adhered to the paint for long.

    Can't say, I didn't keep the trailer long enough.  Hot tires will pull 
up almost anything.  Sand/paint is probably the cheapest way to go, but if 
you are keeping this trailer for a long time, the additional cost of 
Herculiner or similar would not be, in my opinion, prohibitive.  You're 
talking $30/ga for exterior paint plus some sand, versus $78/ga for 
Herculiner ( on Amazon ).  Labor on each would be the same.

    Good luck.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2015 17:51:08 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Spotless car rinsing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Several years ago I bought several Mr. Clean Auto-dry car washing kits on
close out (cheap). It is basically a water gun that despenses soap and rinse
water. The only rewarding feature of the gadget is a cartridge which is
inserted and that mixes a solution in a final mist rinse which allows the wet
car to dry without water spots.

I can understand why the product was discontinued as at full retail it was
expensive and rather cheaply made. The spot free rinsing however is
wonderful.
Now that I'm on my last cartridge I'm looking for a substitute or an idea of
what they used in the cartridge to allow the final mist rinse to dry spot
free.
Any suggestion?

Bob Nogueira
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <84F093BA-CC30-4857-9D62-BC215B843610@me.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2015 19:28:39 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spotless car rinsing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The rinse aid they sell for dishwashers?

Doug
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 29 17:37:22 2015
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2015 16:41:00 -0700
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To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spotless car rinsing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one of those, too.

I believe the rinse cartridge is a DI resin.  I have not looked to see if it
would be possible to remove the expired resin and replace with some bulk
resin:

http://www.amazon.com/Deionization-Resin-Mixed-Color-Changing/dp/B000X92KOC

-Darrell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

