Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue

From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:30:01 -0400

On Apr 17, 2015, at 1:18 PM, [email-masked] wrote:

> The problem is that even after
> lots of driving, the edges of the rotors are still pitted and it looks
> like only the insides of the pads are stopping the car.

You may be SOL given the time constraint, but you may have answered yourself-
if the outer pads aren't working, not only will you have less braking power,
but they won't be wiping the rotors clean. Sound like the pistons froze up, or
the caliper isn't floating on its pins.

Have the calipers ever been replaced/rebuilt? If not I'd bite the bullet
replace everything. Esp in the mountains of WV.

jim
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From: David Hillman <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:31:12 -0400 (EDT)

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015, [email-masked] wrote:
> So, I was planning on flushing the brake fluid and driving it some more to
> see if that take care of the problem.  OR do I need to put new rotors on
> this car?  The pads still have plenty of meat on them.

    All my experience is with the first two generations of MR2, of which 
I've had 12, but I don't expect the Spyder is all that different.  I 
doubt seriously there's anything wrong with your rotors.  I doubt 
changing the fluid -- while not a bad idea in general -- will fix 
anything.

    Before spending any money, I would pull the pads from each caliper, and 
reinstall... making sure that the spring-clips are in place ( 2 per 
caliper ) and that the pads can move enough and didn't rust into place 
over the winter, and that there's plenty of grease on the sliding pin in 
each caliper.  If you have an assistant, while you have the wheel off 
each corner, I would have them apply the brakes and make sure the 
piston(s) move.

    It sounds to me like you have a mechanical ( as opposed to hydraulic ) 
issue preventing the pads from properly gripping the rotors.

> SO is returning to WV on Weds, so I need to do this quick.  What's the
> wisdom here think is the safest option? (Toyota rotors are ridiculously
> over priced and don't want to replace all four if I don't need to.)

    I never found MR2 rotors expensive at all.  Partsgeek.com has Spyder 
rotors for $15.44/ea.

<http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/8096-05052838.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=2000-2005+Toyota+MR2+Spyder+Brake+Rotor+Pronto+BR31298+Rear+00-05+Toyota+Brake+Rotor+2002+04&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CPuSlcH7_cQCFZCLaQodvSMA2A>

--
  David Hillman

[email-masked]

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From: RandE <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:07:46 -0500

Sounds like the Pistons could be sticking.  Maybe take the pads out
and tap on the Pistons to see if they free up.  I've found that NAPA has
really good prices for rotors for the 2nd gen but I haven't priced them for
Spyders.

On Friday, April 17, 2015, <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> The SO's car is a Toyota MR2 Spider  (05).  She doesn't drive it alot and
> it sat all winter in WV under a carport roof.
>
> Now, the brakes are making some noise and the car isn't stopping properly
> (it takes longer to stop and there is speed related intermittent noise.)
>
> Here is the weird part, I know that rotors can get rusty without use, and
> that is most likely what happened here.  The problem is that even after
> Here are two photos of the rotors...
> >http://tinyurl.com/weirdrotor<
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> [email-masked] <javascript:;>
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From: "Tim ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 14:14:46 -0500

Having owned and worked on the brakes for an Avalon, a Solara and a
Highlander, all I can offer is my personal experience that     Toyota
brakes   suck; especially the rears. I've had rear rotors get ruined in less
than 5000 miles because the calipers that were fine suddenly failed/locked up.
And this has happened on all three vehicles. I am not talking about vehicles
that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them either. The Avalon did this
practically right out of the box. Not sure what you pay for rotors, but
AdvanceAuto has better prices on rotors than the other two FLAPS that I use.
And Advance has their speed perks that gives nice discounts via your email. I
never got any discounts or coupons from CARQUEST.  good lucktim

> To: [email-masked]
> From: [email-masked]
> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 13:18:37 -0400
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Weird Rotor Issue
>
> Hello,
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
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From: Doug Braun <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:23:11 -0400

Is that a rear rotor?  Well, look at this one, that I took off my '98
Outback last year:

http://www.dougbraun.com/pix/subaru_rotor.jpg

That's the inside surface of the rear rotor.  The outside was more-or-less
decent looking, and the pads were fine, but
the brakes were getting more and more vibration.  The photo was taken after
lots of large scaly chunks of rust were knocked off.

The car was driven regularly, but always lived outside.

Doug

[email-masked]