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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2015 16:11:58 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/07/2015 16:11:54, Serialize complete at
 02/07/2015 16:11:54
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop door combo lock not opening in freezing cold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have this lock on my shop door...(not this exact model, but they are 
pretty universal.)

>https://www.google.com/shopping/product/929947669100305996?q=simplex+combination+door+lock&biw=1280&bih=909&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.85464276,d.eXY&tch=1&ech=1&psi=RYLWVI7nNcShNr7YgYAC.1423344205404.3&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX0CIlsOCNb676a1hTuvMidoOrU4cTHVwJVJNw-E-BwqN04yAthx_STsdpJZAXMMX4zKfLyACf2dnx6HxedIxdRzBMgXwa0PrJmwPAlY92gZ7ZGYTzhIZAFPVH727dL1KTdKA2mzicfWeyaS1qu25bw&sa=X&ei=SYLWVOL2FcmlNs2dg9gM&ved=0CF8Q8wIwAA<

For a few years, I've had the problem of it not unlocking in freezing 
cold.  I've tried lubricating it to no avail (I don't know if that might 
have made it worst.)

The problem with fixing it is that as soon as I remove it and open it up, 
it's warm enough to funciton properly.  I thought about leaving it in a 
freezer but I don't know if that would work.

Any ideas for soving this delima?  (This lock is rated for outdoor use.)

Thanks.


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb  7 15:13:07 2015
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From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OFA1F57E0D.17F8C51B-ON85257DE5.00742A88-85257DE5.007606C3@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop door combo lock not opening in freezing  cold
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>  I've tried lubricating it to no avail (I don't know if that might
> have made it worst.)

Back in the days when I was (barely) earning a living as a photographer, the 
SOP for cold-proofing mechanical cameras was to strip them of all 
lubricants.  If it were my lock misbehaving, I'd clean it out and re-lube 
with something silicone-based.

Bob K 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb  7 15:28:41 2015
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Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2015 14:23:49 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
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 <9487F8442932415197A3EE8E7C152DA8@BigBlack>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop door combo lock not opening in freezing cold
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's what my dad and a whole lot of other GIs found out in Korea, too.

You probably don't want to do what they did to thaw them out.



On 2/7/2015 2:10 PM, Bob Kegel wrote:
>
> Back in the days when I was (barely) earning a living as a 
> photographer, the SOP for cold-proofing mechanical cameras was to 
> strip them of all lubricants.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 <9487F8442932415197A3EE8E7C152DA8@BigBlack>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2015 17:25:03 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop door combo lock not opening in freezing  cold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 5:10 PM, Bob Kegel <bobkegel@comcast.net> wrote:
> If it were my lock misbehaving, I'd clean it out and re-lube with something
> silicone-based.

Or better yet, a dry graphite powder.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 17:43:49 2015
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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 19:47:16 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I give up.  I've been buying replacement halogen bulbs from Harbor Freight
and it seems the more I buy the faster they burn out.  The last two bulbs I
installed burned out within 4 hours and during that time I didn't move the
light once.  NOT acceptable!

Any suggestions on where I can buy good quality replacement bulbs for a
reasonable price?

Thanks!

Brad
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 17:45:34 2015
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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 19:50:05 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort of
movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever I
end up using needs to be stable but portable.

I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.

Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what not?

Thanks,

Brad
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 17:59:35 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 19:44:19 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/09/2015 19:44:06, Serialize complete at
 02/09/2015 19:44:06
Cc: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just have a 6" sewer pipe with two pieces of C channel on the ends. It's 
free standing, but heavy enough to hold still when in use.  Note, I also 
have 2 grinders mounted, back to back, on them.  I just spin them around 
to get to the other grinder.

Works great.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> 
Sent by: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
02/09/2015 07:32 PM

To
Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
[Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal






I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort of
movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever I
end up using needs to be stable but portable.

I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.

Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what 
not?

Thanks,

Brad
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 18:16:16 2015
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 <OF37CE0A5D.7439BD06-ON85257DE8.0003E083-85257DE8.00059F72@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 20:20:45 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

Got a picture you could send me?

Thanks!

Brad

On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 7:44 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

>
> I just have a 6" sewer pipe with two pieces of C channel on the ends.
> It's free standing, but heavy enough to hold still when in use.  Note, I
> also have 2 grinders mounted, back to back, on them.  I just spin them
> around to get to the other grinder.
>
> Works great.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2015 20:15:44 -0500
To: "Shop Talk List" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <qQqP1p00T0NyJgq01QqQKE>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 07:50 PM 2/9/2015, Brad Kahler wrote:

 >I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort of
 >movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever I
 >end up using needs to be stable but portable.

Brad,

What my neighbor did for all his tools like that was to purchase some 
stands from
Sears and put wheels on them.  Similar to this:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-workstation/p-00922284000P?prdNo=1

Most pedistals will probably be too unstable unless secured to the floor.

Harbor freight has a Universal Bench Grinder Stand that looks like it might
be more stable than a three legged pedistal:

http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-bench-grinder-stand-3184.html

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 18:43:28 2015
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From: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 18:47:56 -0700
References: <qQqP1p00T0NyJgq01QqQKE>,
 <6.2.5.6.1.20150209200209.04c5b4b0@cox.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My dad has had a couple of grinders on stands using old semi-truck wheels as
the base. They are extremely stable and don't move around. They have been this
way for years (30+). They consist of a piece of 4" pipe, welded to the wheel,
with a flat plate welded to the top that the grinder can bolt to.

Occasionally the wheels crack through the lug holes and are no longer useful.
You may be able to get a tire shop to give you one of those. Also, if you can
find the old split rim type, people will usually give those away as well.

You could also probably use regular car/truck wheels, you just may need to add
some concrete for ballast.

Any of the above options should be easily moved with a hand truck.

Brian
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1@gmail.com>, "Shop Talk List"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLHkb8V_FUokVQC-FYFcLb66iSpHygq+Xzjmg5e+PC021w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 20:30:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been told to not touch the glass bulb with bare hands. The oils from 
your fingers can dramatically shorten the life. Use (clean) cotton gloves if 
you're not otherwise unable to avoid touching the glass.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 

>I give up.  I've been buying replacement halogen bulbs from Harbor Freight
> and it seems the more I buy the faster they burn out.  The last two bulbs 
> I
> installed burned out within 4 hours and during that time I didn't move the
> light once.  NOT acceptable!
>
> Any suggestions on where I can buy good quality replacement bulbs for a
> reasonable price?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 19:32:07 2015
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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 21:36:35 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one of those Craftsman folding workbenches with the two-piece
clamping top surface.
It is pretty stable.  I also have several benchtop tools, like a small
router table, a small band saw, and a buffer.
I mounted each of these tools on a a 14" x 24" piece of plywood with an
additional 2" wide strip running across
the underside.  To use a tool, I put it on top of the workbench with the 2"
strip between the two pieces of
workbench table, so it can be clamped in place.  The tools that are not
being used live on some shelving brackets
on my garage wall.

This system has worked well for me.

Doug

On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 7:50 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort of
> movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever I
> end up using needs to be stable but portable.
>
> I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
> work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.
>
> Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what not?
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 19:43:28 2015
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To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 21:26:06 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/09/2015 21:25:52, Serialize complete at
 02/09/2015 21:25:52
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll post some tomorrow.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> 
02/09/2015 08:03 PM

To
eric@megageek.com
cc
Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal






Eric,

Got a picture you could send me?

Thanks!

Brad

On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 7:44 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

I just have a 6" sewer pipe with two pieces of C channel on the ends.  
It's free standing, but heavy enough to hold still when in use.  Note, I 
also have 2 grinders mounted, back to back, on them.  I just spin them 
around to get to the other grinder. 

Works great. 

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2015 21:53:52 -0500
From: Jim <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.4.0
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>,  Shop Talk List
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLH5FaWrMcDtQUrwz2b9kVuAFZaPCJi0-pH87q0JoFXcpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Relating to an earlier post on another topic, I have had bad experiences 
with my F250's brakes.  The good news is the wasted rotors make nice 
heavy bases for different kinds of tool stands, including a grinder.  I 
welded a plate to the bottom of a 2x3 inch tube and drilled holes in 
that plate to bolt to the rotor.  Another plate welded to the top of the 
tube serves as a base for the grinder.  The heft of the rotor keeps it 
firmly planted, easy to stand on for more stability if needed, and easy 
to move around.

I made a similar one to hold a mailbox to win the war against the city 
plows.  It falls down, I stand it up.  A greatwinter survivor.

Jim


On 2/9/2015 7:50 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort of
> movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever I
> end up using needs to be stable but portable.
>
> I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
> work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.
>
> Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what not?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLH5FaWrMcDtQUrwz2b9kVuAFZaPCJi0-pH87q0JoFXcpQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 21:22:46 -0600
Thread-Index: AQKZoLRNukdIq8o6x7prx2pf/dkzuAKVm1/3m0HQjuA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Another possibility is a large truck brake drum filled with concrete, with a
pipe upright and a steel top.  Large diameter is more important than
absolute weight - even a big circle of 1/2" steel would work well and you
could stand on it to add stability if you're using it for heavy buffing or
wire-wheeling on big stuff.

I use a now-unobtainable option.  My Dad found a round cast iron "No
Parking" sign base sometime in the late 40's and it's pretty much perfect.
Probably 40-50 pounds, about 18" in diameter at the base,  easy to roll to
another location, and really sturdy.  I've never seen another one, but if
they're still to be found somewhere, it's a perfect base.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal

Relating to an earlier post on another topic, I have had bad experiences
with my F250's brakes.  The good news is the wasted rotors make nice heavy
bases for different kinds of tool stands, including a grinder 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 21:41:55 -0600
From: RandE <rande90@gmail.com>
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I did something similar.  I mounted some benchtop tools (scroll saw,
grinder, sheetmetal brake, etc.) to a piece of plywood and attached a cleat
across the underside.  I can put this on my Workmate and clamp against the
cleat to hold everything in place and it's still portable.

Randy


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 8:36 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> I have one of those Craftsman folding workbenches with the two-piece
> clamping top surface.
> It is pretty stable.  I also have several benchtop tools, like a small
> router table, a small band saw, and a buffer.
> I mounted each of these tools on a a 14" x 24" piece of plywood with an
> additional 2" wide strip running across
> the underside.  To use a tool, I put it on top of the workbench with the 2"
> strip between the two pieces of
> workbench table, so it can be clamped in place.  The tools that are not
> being used live on some shelving brackets
> on my garage wall.
>
> This system has worked well for me.
>
> Doug
>
> On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 7:50 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort
> of
> > movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever
> I
> > end up using needs to be stable but portable.
> >
> > I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
> > work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.
> >
> > Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what
> not?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rande@pobox.com
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From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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 <54D972C0.2000305@snet.net>
 <006601d044e0$d821ef10$8865cd30$@Ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Or even not filled with concrete.  I have several grinders mounted on 
large brake drums from school buses.  Heavy and large enough that no 
concrete is needed.  Check with your local school district bus barn; 
they may have an old one you can have.


On 2/9/2015 7:22 PM, Karl Vacek wrote:
> Another possibility is a large truck brake drum filled with concrete, with a
> pipe upright and a steel top.  Large diameter is more important than
> absolute weight - even a big circle of 1/2" steel would work well and you
> could stand on it to add stability if you're using it for heavy buffing or
> wire-wheeling on big stuff.
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Grinder pedestal
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> I use a now-unobtainable option.  My Dad found a round cast iron "No
> Parking" sign base sometime in the late 40's and it's pretty much perfect.
> Probably 40-50 pounds, about 18" in diameter at the base,  easy to roll to
> another location, and really sturdy.  I've never seen another one, but if
> they're still to be found somewhere, it's a perfect base.

This has *absolutely* nothing to do with bench grinder bases, though I 
think a disc or slab of steel or an old wheel with suitable weight on it 
should work fine.

I grew up in a house in the Sunset end of San Francisco, and our house 
- like many of the houses in the area - was equipped with a wonderfully 
sturdy kitchen table that was a linoleum-topped square of plywood 
attached to an oval shaped piece of 1/2in steel base.

My father, who'd been working in the Kaiser shipyards in Richmond until 
he was drafted in early 1943, noted that that all those oval-shaped 
table bases were passageway cutouts from Liberty ship bulkheads.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2015 21:43:59 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
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Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I second Doug's idea.  Assorted pieces of plywood with a 1x2 screwed to 
them make good bases.  I clamp it in my Black and Decker Workmate.

Another option is to attach your pedestal to a sheet of thicker plywood 
and stand on the plywood while you grind.  Use some threaded inserts to 
make the base easily removable for storage.

Brian

On 2/9/2015 6:36 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> I have one of those Craftsman folding workbenches with the two-piece
> clamping top surface.
> It is pretty stable.  I also have several benchtop tools, like a small
> router table, a small band saw, and a buffer.
> I mounted each of these tools on a a 14" x 24" piece of plywood with an
> additional 2" wide strip running across
> the underside.  To use a tool, I put it on top of the workbench with the 2"
> strip between the two pieces of
> workbench table, so it can be clamped in place.  The tools that are not
> being used live on some shelving brackets
> on my garage wall.
>
> This system has worked well for me.
>
> Doug
>
> On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 7:50 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort of
>> movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever I
>> end up using needs to be stable but portable.
>>
>> I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
>> work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.
>>
>> Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what not?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From: "Kent Sullivan" <kentsu@corvairkid.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <qQqP1p00T0NyJgq01QqQKE>,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
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I went the wheel-and-post route ~15 years ago and have been very happy with
the stability. Bonus is you can roll it easily over short distances to do
minor repositions.

--Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian
and Wendy
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2015 5:48 PM
To: Shop Talk List
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal

My dad has had a couple of grinders on stands using old semi-truck wheels as
the base. They are extremely stable and don't move around. They have been
this way for years (30+). They consist of a piece of 4" pipe, welded to the
wheel, with a flat plate welded to the top that the grinder can bolt to.

Occasionally the wheels crack through the lug holes and are no longer
useful.
You may be able to get a tire shop to give you one of those. Also, if you
can find the old split rim type, people will usually give those away as
well.

You could also probably use regular car/truck wheels, you just may need to
add some concrete for ballast.

Any of the above options should be easily moved with a hand truck.

Brian
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 06:10:28 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

The Sears bench has a larger foot print than I would like.  I didn't
realize Harbor Freight made stands like the one in the link you provided.
That one has some potential although moving or sliding it around might
prove a little difficult.

My shop setup is somewhat fluid as I'm always moving things around
depending on the project I'm working on at the time.

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 8:15 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

> At 07:50 PM 2/9/2015, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
>  >I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort
> of
>  >movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever
> I
>  >end up using needs to be stable but portable.
>
> Brad,
>
> What my neighbor did for all his tools like that was to purchase some
> stands from
> Sears and put wheels on them.  Similar to this:
>
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-workstation/p-00922284000P?prdNo=1
>
> Most pedistals will probably be too unstable unless secured to the floor.
>
> Harbor freight has a Universal Bench Grinder Stand that looks like it might
> be more stable than a three legged pedistal:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-bench-grinder-stand-3184.html
>
> John
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>            48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>       75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                         65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
_______________________________________________

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 <BAY407-EAS126A8CEEECB5AABA34F10EB8F240@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 06:22:11 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Ted Rodgers <rodgers356@msn.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ted,

This appears to be the flood lamp replacement LED blub.  Definitely pricey
at $27 but if it lasts at least 27 times longer the cost could easily be
justified.  Depending one other responses to my query I might give it a try.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-tube/8w-r7s-led-floodlight-replacement-lamp/1192/2808/

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 8:38 PM, Ted Rodgers <rodgers356@msn.com> wrote:

> I've had good luck with this company:
>
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/
>
>
> I give up.  I've been buying replacement halogen bulbs from Harbor Freight
> and it seems the more I buy the faster they burn out.  The last two bulbs I
> installed burned out within 4 hours and during that time I didn't move the
> light once.  NOT acceptable!
>
> Any suggestions on where I can buy good quality replacement bulbs for a
> reasonable price?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rodgers356@email.msn.com
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References: <6.2.5.6.1.20150209200209.04c5b4b0@cox.net>
 <BAY179-W68D595D4B32542200B4846BB240@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 06:24:19 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Brian,

When I posted my request a used wheel was what was lurking in the back of
my mind.  I'm curious to see the picture(s) Eric will be posting to see
what his sand looks like.  There's a used truck place south of me that I
might try calling to see what they have for used wheels laying around.

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 8:47 PM, Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
wrote:

> My dad has had a couple of grinders on stands using old semi-truck wheels
> as
> the base. They are extremely stable and don't move around. They have been
> this
> way for years (30+). They consist of a piece of 4" pipe, welded to the
> wheel,
> with a flat plate welded to the top that the grinder can bolt to.
>
> Occasionally the wheels crack through the lug holes and are no longer
> useful.
> You may be able to get a tire shop to give you one of those. Also, if you
> can
> find the old split rim type, people will usually give those away as well.
>
> You could also probably use regular car/truck wheels, you just may need to
> add
> some concrete for ballast.
>
> Any of the above options should be easily moved with a hand truck.
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bkahler1@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 04:20:43 2015
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 <B4D015F385824278934E3E8DAFE66403@EricJRussellPC>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 06:25:14 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric, I always use nitrile gloves when I change he bulbs.  I had heard the
same thing about finger oil on the bulbs.

Thanks,

Brad


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 8:30 PM, Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net> wrote:

> I've been told to not touch the glass bulb with bare hands. The oils from
> your fingers can dramatically shorten the life. Use (clean) cotton gloves
> if you're not otherwise unable to avoid touching the glass.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> I give up.  I've been buying replacement halogen bulbs from Harbor Freight
>> and it seems the more I buy the faster they burn out.  The last two bulbs
>> I
>> installed burned out within 4 hours and during that time I didn't move the
>> light once.  NOT acceptable!
>>
>> Any suggestions on where I can buy good quality replacement bulbs for a
>> reasonable price?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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 <CAOtbU9UWU7_ZRZp4GQ4QBKMuBJm826kBGBuyqU9VhHN_knYx1g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 06:27:33 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug, interesting idea.  I've got one of the Black & Decker Workmate
benches and some plywood laying around.  I might give it a try before
spending money on wheels and pipes.

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 9:36 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> I have one of those Craftsman folding workbenches with the two-piece
> clamping top surface.
> It is pretty stable.  I also have several benchtop tools, like a small
> router table, a small band saw, and a buffer.
> I mounted each of these tools on a a 14" x 24" piece of plywood with an
> additional 2" wide strip running across
> the underside.  To use a tool, I put it on top of the workbench with the
> 2" strip between the two pieces of
> workbench table, so it can be clamped in place.  The tools that are not
> being used live on some shelving brackets
> on my garage wall.
>
> This system has worked well for me.
>
> Doug
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 07:15:02 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Jim <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

I hadn't realized F250 brake rotors were that large!  I'll have to take a
peek at my F250 diesel and see what they look like.

I wouldn't think the rotors would be large enough in diameter to provide
enough stability.

Interesting.

Thanks for sharing!

Brad


On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 9:53 PM, Jim <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:

> Relating to an earlier post on another topic, I have had bad experiences
> with my F250's brakes.  The good news is the wasted rotors make nice heavy
> bases for different kinds of tool stands, including a grinder.  I welded a
> plate to the bottom of a 2x3 inch tube and drilled holes in that plate to
> bolt to the rotor.  Another plate welded to the top of the tube serves as a
> base for the grinder.  The heft of the rotor keeps it firmly planted, easy
> to stand on for more stability if needed, and easy to move around.
>
> I made a similar one to hold a mailbox to win the war against the city
> plows.  It falls down, I stand it up.  A greatwinter survivor.
>
> Jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 05:34:32 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 07:15:11 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/10/2015 07:15:13, Serialize complete at
 02/10/2015 07:15:13
Cc: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Here are two quick photos...  Note, I said to use 2 c channels, but I have 
a piece of plate steel on the bottom of mine. 

>http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/272bd8b8fb3eb59e85257de800443e4f?OpenDocument<


Let me know if you need better photos

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 09:20:07 -0500
From: Joe Szwed <szwedj@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I welded one up for my Dad once where he used an old disc blade from an old
set of agricultural disc's.  It wasn't real heavy but because of how it was
domed, it was very sturdy.  It set on the floor nice and didn't rock at
all.  I built a few stand bases using channel iron in a cross or an "H" for
myself.  I have seen many times over the years where people used as
mentioned, car or truck rims, rotors or brake drums.  It seems to be one of
those things where most people use whatever they have on hand.  Thinking
about it off the top of my head, I have a old cast iron base from a patio
umbrella that would make a nice base for a stand.

Joe
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 11:37:33 -0500
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop door combo lock not opening in freezing  cold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When I initially started to reply, I was on my mobile and didn't go to the
link, and thought you were talking about a padlock or similar. I was going
to simply suggest you dunk the whole lock into a container of warm fresh
Mobil 1 for a day or so and let that coat everything.

I suppose my recommendation still stands, so long as the lock is not
electronic. Otherwise, it sounds like you need to seriously coat the
internals with something non-conductive and hydrophobic, as it sounds like
moisture/condensation is building up in there. Maybe it needs better
ventilation to keep condensation at bay. Does it get wet when it rains, or
is it under cover?

-Peter

On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 4:11 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> I have this lock on my shop door...(not this exact model, but they are
> pretty universal.)
>
> >
>
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/929947669100305996?q=simplex+combinat
ion+door+lock&biw=1280&bih=909&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.85464276,d.eXY&t
ch=1&ech=1&psi=RYLWVI7nNcShNr7YgYAC.1423344205404.3&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX0CIlsO
CNb676a1hTuvMidoOrU4cTHVwJVJNw-E-BwqN04yAthx_STsdpJZAXMMX4zKfLyACf2dnx6HxedIx
dRzBMgXwa0PrJmwPAlY92gZ7ZGYTzhIZAFPVH727dL1KTdKA2mzicfWeyaS1qu25bw&sa=X&ei=SY
LWVOL2FcmlNs2dg9gM&ved=0CF8Q8wIwAA
> <
>
> For a few years, I've had the problem of it not unlocking in freezing
> cold.  I've tried lubricating it to no avail (I don't know if that might
> have made it worst.)
>
> The problem with fixing it is that as soon as I remove it and open it up,
> it's warm enough to funciton properly.  I thought about leaving it in a
> freezer but I don't know if that would work.
>
> Any ideas for soving this delima?  (This lock is rated for outdoor use.)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <OFA1F57E0D.17F8C51B-ON85257DE5.00742A88-85257DE5.007606C3@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 11:48:14 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop door combo lock not opening in freezing  cold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you're trying to fix it, I'd remove it and put it in an oven at around
105 Celsius (~220 Fahrenheit) for a couple hours.  That is warm enough to
evaporate any moisture, but cool enough not to wreck any plastics.  Then
wipe it out internally the best you can and lubricate it with graphite or
silicon or something else that won't get too viscous in extreme cold.

I'm working on keyless access to my shop, and I have this in my Amazon
wishlist right now:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026SZNW4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&c
olid=HIRUHJ9AFCEB&coliid=I2GTXBIF49K8SE&psc=1

So if you have too hard a time fixing what you have, you might just want to
replace it with a decent keypad deadbolt.  They're not terribly expensive
and they're fairly secure.

-Paul

On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 4:11 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> I have this lock on my shop door...(not this exact model, but they are
> pretty universal.)
>
> >
>
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/929947669100305996?q=simplex+combinat
ion+door+lock&biw=1280&bih=909&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.85464276,d.eXY&t
ch=1&ech=1&psi=RYLWVI7nNcShNr7YgYAC.1423344205404.3&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX0CIlsO
CNb676a1hTuvMidoOrU4cTHVwJVJNw-E-BwqN04yAthx_STsdpJZAXMMX4zKfLyACf2dnx6HxedIx
dRzBMgXwa0PrJmwPAlY92gZ7ZGYTzhIZAFPVH727dL1KTdKA2mzicfWeyaS1qu25bw&sa=X&ei=SY
LWVOL2FcmlNs2dg9gM&ved=0CF8Q8wIwAA
> <
>
> For a few years, I've had the problem of it not unlocking in freezing
> cold.  I've tried lubricating it to no avail (I don't know if that might
> have made it worst.)
>
> The problem with fixing it is that as soon as I remove it and open it up,
> it's warm enough to funciton properly.  I thought about leaving it in a
> freezer but I don't know if that would work.
>
> Any ideas for soving this delima?  (This lock is rated for outdoor use.)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 11:15:10 -0500
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Brad, I've done the same with smaller rotors as well; I have a bench-top
grinder mounted on a post over a Dodge 1500 front rotor.  That works pretty
well also.  I think it's partly the balance of the thing, the bottom-heavy
nature of it.

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

> On Feb 10, 2015, at 7:15 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I hadn't realized F250 brake rotors were that large!  I'll have to take a
peek at my F250 diesel and see what they look like.
>
> I wouldn't think the rotors would be large enough in diameter to provide
enough stability.
>
> Interesting.
>
> Thanks for sharing!
>
> Brad
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 10:54:23 -0800
Thread-Index: AdBFI+3T1HSHxfhzTPOsoXzz40D4EwAOvb9A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Halogen replacement bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> This appears to be the flood lamp replacement LED blub.  
> Definitely pricey
> at $27 but if it lasts at least 27 times longer the cost 
> could easily be
> justified.  Depending one other responses to my query I might 
> give it a try.
> 
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-tube/8w-r7s-led-f
loodlight-replacement-lamp/1192/2808/
> 

Perhaps I am confused about what we are talking about?  That thing only puts out 700 lumens or so, less than a 60 watt incandescent.

I assumed the question was about those 500 watt halogen "sticks" that put out over 10 times as much light.  Eg,
http://tinyurl.com/nasolzq

Sorry, I can't help with how long they last.  I only have them in a some shop lights that I almost never use.

Just a thought though: High power bare LED "pucks" are pretty cheap if you buy them in bulk on flea-bay.  For example, here is
10,000 lumens worth for $12.
http://tinyurl.com/mk6e5tm
Too soon to say how long it will last, but so far I've had good luck using JB Weld to secure them to a heavy aluminum plate as a
heat sink.  Of course then you'll need a suitable power supply, but the Internet is full of designs.  Here's one that is
transformerless (ie cheap) and I think should be fairly easily scaled for higher current LEDs.
http://downloads.deusm.com/designnews/20121126-LED-DESK-LAMP.pdf

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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 <54D99A9F.9050406@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 19:17:24 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Several people have suggested plywood as a base.  Plywood would probably be
the cheaper of the alternatives that are available.  Although I would like
to find out how much I can pick up a used truck wheel for.  Sadly a while
back I gave a way a steel rim from a chevy P30 chassis that was for 19.5"
tires.  That likely would have made an ideal candidate.

Brad


On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 12:43 AM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

> I second Doug's idea.  Assorted pieces of plywood with a 1x2 screwed to
> them make good bases.  I clamp it in my Black and Decker Workmate.
>
> Another option is to attach your pedestal to a sheet of thicker plywood
> and stand on the plywood while you grind.  Use some threaded inserts to
> make the base easily removable for storage.
>
> Brian
>
> On 2/9/2015 6:36 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
>
>> I have one of those Craftsman folding workbenches with the two-piece
>> clamping top surface.
>> It is pretty stable.  I also have several benchtop tools, like a small
>> router table, a small band saw, and a buffer.
>> I mounted each of these tools on a a 14" x 24" piece of plywood with an
>> additional 2" wide strip running across
>> the underside.  To use a tool, I put it on top of the workbench with the
>> 2"
>> strip between the two pieces of
>> workbench table, so it can be clamped in place.  The tools that are not
>> being used live on some shelving brackets
>> on my garage wall.
>>
>> This system has worked well for me.
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 7:50 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>  I've got several bench grinders that I would like to mount on some sort
>>> of
>>> movable pedestals.  I don't want to anchor them to the floor so whatever
>>> I
>>> end up using needs to be stable but portable.
>>>
>>> I've got several of the Harbor Freight 3 footed pedestals that would only
>>> work if anchored to the floor and worse they are two short to use.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions on something that can be purchased, fabricated or what
>>> not?
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@
>> earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 19:21:22 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric, how stable is that pedestal?

Looks like it would tip over when applying pressure to the wheel while
grinding or buffing.


On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 7:15 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

>
> Here are two quick photos...  Note, I said to use 2 c channels, but I have
> a piece of plate steel on the bottom of mine.
>
> >
> http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/272bd8b8fb3eb59e85257de800443e4f?OpenDocument
> <
>
>
> Let me know if you need better photos
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 19:35:26 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Let see, brake rotors, truck wheels, plow discs, lawn umbrella base,
plywood, work bench with plywood steel plates and more.

Lots of great ideas.  I think Joe nailed it when he said mostly people just
use what they have laying around.  I've got several of the objects people
have mentioned and reasonable access to other items that have been
suggested so now I just have to cobble something together so I can get back
to grinding :)

Thanks!

Brad

On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:

> Brad, I've done the same with smaller rotors as well; I have a bench-top
> grinder mounted on a post over a Dodge 1500 front rotor.  That works pretty
> well also.  I think it's partly the balance of the thing, the bottom-heavy
> nature of it.
>
> Sent via iPad
> Jim Juhas
>
> On Feb 10, 2015, at 7:15 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I hadn't realized F250 brake rotors were that large!  I'll have to take a
> peek at my F250 diesel and see what they look like.
>
> I wouldn't think the rotors would be large enough in diameter to provide
> enough stability.
>
> Interesting.
>
> Thanks for sharing!
>
> Brad
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From: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
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Well, I guess I can add my two cents.  Seems like the large diameter 
wheel would work best.  In my case, I didn't need the portability, so I 
just mounted it on the work bench.  Trouble is, it needs to be on the 
front of the bench for accessibility, but then it is in the way for 
other things.  I don't use it that often.  It's not a big grinder, and 
has rubber inserts in the holes in the base.  So I drilled four holes 
thru the bench (it's a 2x4 surface, covered with left-over tongue and 
groove hardwood from when we redid the floors in the house).  The holes 
are the same diameter as the bolts, so they are a fairly tight fit.  I 
leave the four bolts in the grinder base, and just drop them into the 
bench holes.  I have big wing nuts to hold them tight, but I have 
discovered that I don't even need the wing nuts for most jobs.

Mike


On 2/10/2015 4:35 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> Let see, brake rotors, truck wheels, plow discs, lawn umbrella base,
> plywood, work bench with plywood steel plates and more.
>
> Lots of great ideas.  I think Joe nailed it when he said mostly people just
> use what they have laying around.  I've got several of the objects people
> have mentioned and reasonable access to other items that have been
> suggested so now I just have to cobble something together so I can get back
> to grinding :)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 05:02:57 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 05:56:33 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/11/2015 06:50:02, Serialize complete at
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Cc: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
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It's pretty stable.  It's meant to be bolted down, but I don't need it to 
be.  If you used a slightly larger c channel for the base, it would be 
even better.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> 
02/10/2015 07:04 PM

To
eric@megageek.com
cc
Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal






Eric, how stable is that pedestal?  

Looks like it would tip over when applying pressure to the wheel while 
grinding or buffing.


On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 7:15 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

Here are two quick photos...  Note, I said to use 2 c channels, but I have 
a piece of plate steel on the bottom of mine.   

>
http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/272bd8b8fb3eb59e85257de800443e4f?OpenDocument
< 


Let me know if you need better photos 

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 18:51:33 -0600
References: <CADm3DLFJqo=MsBAPH+_k=Yr__v5YdnXMqqCEr5JX-nC8bYkDrA@mail.gmail.com>,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
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On a garage site I read several have mounted their grinders etc. to a plate
attached to a trailer hitch draw bar.  They then mount a receiver to the
bench.  They then can switch tool or remove it all together.

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
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Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 19:09:11 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grinder pedestal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's a pretty decent idea.  Probably the only reason I doubt that I would
go that route is I don't like the vibration that the grinder generates when
bolted to the bench which is where mine is now.

Now if I find a spot in the shop where that idea might fit I'd certainly
give it a try.

Thanks!

Brad


On Wed, Feb 11, 2015 at 7:51 PM, Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com> wrote:

> On a garage site I read several have mounted their grinders etc. to a plate
> attached to a trailer hitch draw bar.  They then mount a receiver to the
> bench.  They then can switch tool or remove it all together.
>
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
_______________________________________________

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@aTT.NET>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 20:02:57 -0600
Thread-Index: AdBHMS9yYBZaHvrFRkuaPnTUDH3b9A==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Shop-talk] removing magnet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a magnetic parts disk. 6" chrome plated metal dish with a big ole
honkin magnet on the bottom (hence the 'magnetic parts dish' )   I need to
remove the magnet apprantly it's glued on ???   what will break this loose
???  tried a hammer and and prying it off.   All that did was break the
magnet and bend the dish.   unscarred is what I need.   what about heat ??
maybe melt the glue ??? or whatever is holding the two together ???

 

john



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Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 21:38:03 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] removing magnet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I've done a lot of work with cryogens over my career.  If you fill the bowl
with liquid nitrogen, the glue will get brittle and the bowl will contract
at a different rate and almost certainly pop free.  If you don't have
access to liquid nitrogen, you might be able to get it cold enough by
filling it with dry ice and a very low freezing liquid (I usually use
acetone).  Then give it a good whack with a rubber mallet when it's very
cold.

It's funny, I have one of those dishes in my garage and the magnet won't
stay on because I knocked it off the lift and the glue broke when it hit
the ground.  Sounds like you'd have considered that lucky!

Actually, why do you need them apart?  If you're near Michigan, you can
have mine.

-Paul

On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 9:02 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> I've got a magnetic parts disk. 6" chrome plated metal dish with a big ole
> honkin magnet on the bottom (hence the 'magnetic parts dish' )   I need to
> remove the magnet apprantly it's glued on ???   what will break this loose
> ???  tried a hammer and and prying it off.   All that did was break the
> magnet and bend the dish.   unscarred is what I need.   what about heat ??
> maybe melt the glue ??? or whatever is holding the two together ???
>
>
>
> john
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 09:09:10 -0500
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Nere in the NE where we're getting 40 days and nights of blizzard, I have
about 3' of snow on my roof, 2.5 stories up. Noticed the first evidence of ice
damming this morning. I have a modern roof with full soffit and ridge vents,
but the system isn't working due to the ridge vent being buried.

How do I clear the vent of all that snow? The opening in the sheathing is too
small to get anything mechanical up in there. I thought about a heat lamp, but
with no other exit for the warm air that might cause more harm. The attic
floor is insulated and the roof is not, which is good. Getting onto the roof
is not at all possible except with a really long lift given how far the ridge
is from the driveway.

thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 13 07:15:42 2015
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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 09:20:11 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't the Swiss use artillery to start avalanches?

Snow on the roof is something that rarely causes a problem down here,
but could you toss a long rope over the roof so that you and a helper
could drag it along the axis of the ridge and dislodge the snow?

Just thinking out loud...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 9:09 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> Nere in the NE where we're getting 40 days and nights of blizzard, I have
> about 3' of snow on my roof, 2.5 stories up. Noticed the first evidence of ice
> damming this morning. I have a modern roof with full soffit and ridge vents,
> but the system isn't working due to the ridge vent being buried.
>
> How do I clear the vent of all that snow? The opening in the sheathing is too
> small to get anything mechanical up in there. I thought about a heat lamp, but
> with no other exit for the warm air that might cause more harm. The attic
> floor is insulated and the roof is not, which is good. Getting onto the roof
> is not at all possible except with a really long lift given how far the ridge
> is from the driveway.
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, "shop-talk List"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <7351FE5D-A24F-4121-9E19-30C663E5F61C@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 09:42:48 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have a modern roof with full soffit and ridge vents,
> but the system isn't working due to the ridge vent being buried.
>
> How do I clear the vent of all that snow?

IME, the snow that needs to be removed is at the lower edge of the roof - 
from above the side walls to the overhang. Which is what snow rakes/roof 
rakes do. But I don't know if they'd reach 2 1/2 stories high.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_snow-ice-removal+roof-rakes

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <7351FE5D-A24F-4121-9E19-30C663E5F61C@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 08:47:44 -0600
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk]  How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Snow rake?

http://www.bing.com/search?q=snow+rakes+for+roofs&qs=AS&sk=AS1&pq=snow+rake&
sc=8-9&sp=2&cvid=4e70a00f5a394c999ea14caf66836027&FORM=QBLH&ghc=1

I have two, each having aluminum pole sections that clip together.  I use
all the poles together to make one large enough to clear my hangar roof.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Franklin
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 8:09 AM
To: shop-talk List
Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?

Nere in the NE where we're getting 40 days and nights of blizzard, I have
about 3' of snow on my roof, 2.5 stories up. Noticed the first evidence of
ice damming this morning. I have a modern roof with full soffit and ridge
vents, but the system isn't working due to the ridge vent being buried.

How do I clear the vent of all that snow? The opening in the sheathing is
too small to get anything mechanical up in there. I thought about a heat
lamp, but with no other exit for the warm air that might cause more harm.
The attic floor is insulated and the roof is not, which is good. Getting
onto the roof is not at all possible except with a really long lift given
how far the ridge is from the driveway.

thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/kvacek@ameritech.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 09:52:23 -0500
References: <7351FE5D-A24F-4121-9E19-30C663E5F61C@groupwbench.org>
 <69EA236519AB42ECAD1165E189BE8955@EricJRussellPC>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Feb 13, 2015, at 9:42 AM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>
> IME, the snow that needs to be removed is at the lower edge of the roof -
from above the side walls to the overhang. Which is what snow rakes/roof rakes
do. But I don't know if they'd reach 2 1/2 stories high.

They won't, and I can't get through the snow on the ground if they could.

However, the issue is the ridge vent. Once it's clear, the attic stays cold
enough to prevent any melting.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 07:01:36 -0800
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

No idea if this would work with that much snow, but what about trying to blow
it out from the inside with an electric leaf blower?

-Darrell

> On Feb 13, 2015, at 6:52 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>
> On Feb 13, 2015, at 9:42 AM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>>
>> IME, the snow that needs to be removed is at the lower edge of the roof -
> from above the side walls to the overhang. Which is what snow rakes/roof
rakes
> do. But I don't know if they'd reach 2 1/2 stories high.
>
> They won't, and I can't get through the snow on the ground if they could.
>
> However, the issue is the ridge vent. Once it's clear, the attic stays cold
> enough to prevent any melting.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 10:08:16 -0500
References: <7351FE5D-A24F-4121-9E19-30C663E5F61C@groupwbench.org>
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe if it was fresh powder, but this has been up there 2 weeks. Not going
anywhere (if it was still powdery, the winds would have blown it off the
peak). Plus, the gap between the sheathing and ridge beam is only about 3/4",
not enough to get any appreciable airflow.

I did think about using the compressor hose to poke a hole, but it won't fit
either.

jim

On Feb 13, 2015, at 10:01 AM, Darrell Walker wrote:

>
> No idea if this would work with that much snow, but what about trying to
blow it out from the inside with an electric leaf blower?
>
> -Darrell
>
>> On Feb 13, 2015, at 6:52 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>>
>> On Feb 13, 2015, at 9:42 AM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>>>
>>> IME, the snow that needs to be removed is at the lower edge of the roof -
>> from above the side walls to the overhang. Which is what snow rakes/roof
rakes
>> do. But I don't know if they'd reach 2 1/2 stories high.
>>
>> They won't, and I can't get through the snow on the ground if they could.
>>
>> However, the issue is the ridge vent. Once it's clear, the attic stays
cold
>> enough to prevent any melting.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darrellw360@mac.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
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On Friday, February 13, 2015, at 06:20,  Jeff Scarbrough wrote:

> Don't the Swiss use artillery to start avalanches?

The Washington State Department of Transportation has an artillery section 
with recoilless rifles in fixed mounts, towed howitzers, and M60 tanks. 
Obviously not suitable for residential use. Would this system 
http://avalanche-snow.com/ work ?

Bob K 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Feb 13, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Bob Kegel wrote:

> Would this system http://avalanche-snow.com/ work ?

2.5 stories up and a somewhat modest pitch means I'd need to be 60' away in
the street to be aligned with the plane of the roof. So, no :-)

The Fire Dept hose could have it cleared in 5 mins. Maybe I should pitch that
to them as a fund raising effort...
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
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I might just find a way to get up there and clear it myself. Ice dams 
can turn into ice "damns".

On 2/13/2015 12:05 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> On Feb 13, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Bob Kegel wrote:
>
>> Would this system http://avalanche-snow.com/ work ?
> 2.5 stories up and a somewhat modest pitch means I'd need to be 60' away in
> the street to be aligned with the plane of the roof. So, no :-)
>
> The Fire Dept hose could have it cleared in 5 mins. Maybe I should pitch that
> to them as a fund raising effort...
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How to clear snow from ridge vents?
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On 2/13/2015 12:05 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> his system http://avalanche-snow.com/ work ?
> 2.5 stories up and a somewhat modest pitch means I'd need to be 60' away in
> the street to be aligned with the plane of the roof. So, no :-)
>
> The Fire Dept hose could have it cleared in 5 mins. Maybe I should pitch that
> to them as a fund raising effort...

Could make lots of money until a roof collapses.


> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 13 15:44:13 2015
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 16:48:42 -0600
 FILETIME=[37220580:01D047DF]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about an engine.....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

.....that has not had
synthetic oil before.



I have an 02 Highlander
with ~185K miles on it. It has turned out to be a
lemon and we are not
wondering if the Carfax we saw was fakedlong story about
all that Ive had to
do this this vehicle since we got it. We've had it for
about two years.
I've done most of the oil changes and all have used only
regular dyno oil (most likely a blend but
still not full synthetic). The other
day I topped up the oil, adding about half
a quart, and realized too late that
I had grabbed a quart of the full synthetic
I use for my daughters car.



Ive read that switching to
full synthetic from regular oil can destroy the
seals. Is this actually true?
And if so, is about half a quart added to a five
quart capacity engine enough
to ruin seals?



I ask this because in the
past couple weeks Ive notice that this thing is
now leaking pretty frelling good. I have several spots under it now where the
oil is dripping.



Thanks guys


tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 23:18:22 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
References: <BLU180-W47AF76BCE170C850C1010DB4230@phx.gbl>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: Question about an engine.....
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Question about an engine.....
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Synthetic oil does not 'destroy seals.' It's 'slipperier' than dino oils, so can get past seals and cause some additional leaking (or new leaking). 

A quart in 5 is gonna make no difference whatsoever as long as you used the same viscosity (dino-synth blends work quite well). If you're losing sleep do an oil change and forget about it. 

re: 'most likely a blend butstill not full synthetic' 

It it's a blend it will say so on the label, and it'll cost a little more than straight dino. 


Bob 

----- Original Message -----

... 

.....that has not had 
synthetic oil before. 



I have an 02 Highlander 
with ~185K miles on it. It has turned out to be a 
lemon and we are not 
wondering if the Carfax we saw was fakedlong story about 
all that Ive had to 
do this this vehicle since we got it. We've had it for 
about two years. 
I've done most of the oil changes and all have used only 
regular dyno oil (most likely a blend but 
still not full synthetic). The other 
day I topped up the oil, adding about half 
a quart, and realized too late that 
I had grabbed a quart of the full synthetic 
I use for my daughters car. 



Ive read that switching to 
full synthetic from regular oil can destroy the 
seals. Is this actually true? 
And if so, is about half a quart added to a five 
quart capacity engine enough 
to ruin seals? 



I ask this because in the 
past couple weeks Ive notice that this thing is 
now leaking pretty frelling good. I have several spots under it now where the 
oil is dripping. 



Thanks guys 


tim 
_______________________________________________ 

Shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "Shop Talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W47AF76BCE170C850C1010DB4230@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 20:27:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Question about an engine.....
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Nothing I'd worry about - except wasting a bit of money since the synthetic 
usually costs more.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

> .....that has not had synthetic oil before.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 17 16:24:36 2015
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Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 18:29:06 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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    I want to add a retractable air hose reel in my shop, so I can have air 
out in the driveway and other places, without wrestling with the 100' hose 
I have now.  I don't need 100', 75 or even 50 would be fine.  My priority 
is that it not leak.  I have no leaks in my system now, and don't want to 
add any.  It would be nice to have hose that stays flexible when cold, as 
it gets a little chilly here in Illinois ( -10 F tonight, supposedly ) and 
I will use it then, to inflate trailer and iceracer tires, among other 
things.

    Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 18:17:17 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/17/2015 18:17:14, Serialize complete at
 02/17/2015 18:17:14
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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I have a 150' reel of rubber hose.  It never tangles or freezes.  The reel 
doesn't have a name on it, but it came from a rescue vehicle supply house. 
 It wasn't cheap, but it doesn't leak.

I think a better option for you is to put a ball valve right before the 
hose reel.  Then you 'shut off' the supply to the reel.  Not only does 
this prevent you from having any leaks if you want to get a cheaper unit, 
but when you have the hose pulled out, you shut off the supply, then drain 
the air out of the hose and it will reel up much easier!

Enjoy!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com> 
Sent by: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
02/17/2015 06:12 PM

To
Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
[Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec






    I want to add a retractable air hose reel in my shop, so I can have 
air 
out in the driveway and other places, without wrestling with the 100' hose 

I have now.  I don't need 100', 75 or even 50 would be fine.  My priority 
is that it not leak.  I have no leaks in my system now, and don't want to 
add any.  It would be nice to have hose that stays flexible when cold, as 
it gets a little chilly here in Illinois ( -10 F tonight, supposedly ) and 

I will use it then, to inflate trailer and iceracer tires, among other 
things.

    Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@aTT.NET>
To: "'David Hillman'" <hillman@planet-torque.com>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 17:39:55 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

David... I agree with Eric...   I've got two... one commercial unit from a
fire hose company and one from Harbor freight...   neither leak but the
hoses do...   I put a ball valve before each and a drain stub under each.  I
just flip the lever off when I don't need air for a few minutes then back on
when I need it...   it goes off when the job is done and I don't lose my
tanks charge...   The really good commercial ones are VERY expensive..  

john

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Hillman
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 5:29 PM
To: Shop-Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec

    I want to add a retractable air hose reel in my shop, so I can have air
out in the driveway and other places, without wrestling with the 100' hose I
have now.  I don't need 100', 75 or even 50 would be fine.  My priority is
that it not leak.  I have no leaks in my system now, and don't want to add
any.  It would be nice to have hose that stays flexible when cold, as it
gets a little chilly here in Illinois ( -10 F tonight, supposedly ) and I
will use it then, to inflate trailer and iceracer tires, among other things.

    Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 17 18:21:41 2015
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Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 20:26:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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On Tue, 17 Feb 2015, john niolon wrote:
> David... I agree with Eric...   I've got two... one commercial unit from a
> fire hose company and one from Harbor freight...   neither leak but the
> hoses do...   I put a ball valve before each and a drain stub under each.  I
> just flip the lever off when I don't need air for a few minutes then back on
> when I need it...   it goes off when the job is done and I don't lose my
> tanks charge...   The really good commercial ones are VERY expensive..

    My 'shop' is really a 2.5 car attached garage, and I have the 
compressor in a shed outside.  Copper line runs into the garage on the 
rear wall, right by the entry/exit stairs to the house.  There's a ball 
valve there with a big orange handle at eye level... I still don't always 
shut it off when I should ;)  Sometimes I think I'm going inside for just 
a minute, and wind up done for the day, etc.  I might not get back out 
there for a few days.

    It's not a huge deal if it leaks, but I'm kind of picky, and I feel 
like if we can land a probe on a comet, we ought to be able to build a 
hose reel that doesn't leak.  At least not when it is brand new.

    And I already had to replace one ball valve that developed a leak in 
about a year, defeating its entire purpose.

    Thanks.

--
  David Hillman
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Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 18:48:34 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have three of the Harbor Freight retractable reels in my shop. The 
reels don't seem to leak, but on two of them the short hoses from my 
copper air lines to the hose reel developed leaks and I just replaced 
them with regular hose.  I also have a 3/4" ball valve on the wall where 
the air line comes into the shop from the shed and I keep it closed 
whenever I'm not in the shop.  My lines don't leak but sometimes the QD 
fittings do.


On 2/17/2015 3:29 PM, David Hillman wrote:
>    I want to add a retractable air hose reel in my shop, so I can have 
> air out in the driveway and other places, without wrestling with the 
> 100' hose I have now.  I don't need 100', 75 or even 50 would be 
> fine.  My priority is that it not leak.  I have no leaks in my system 
> now, and don't want to add any.  It would be nice to have hose that 
> stays flexible when cold, as it gets a little chilly here in Illinois 
> ( -10 F tonight, supposedly ) and I will use it then, to inflate 
> trailer and iceracer tires, among other things.
>
>    Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.
>
> -- 
>  David Hillman
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 17 19:54:20 2015
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Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 18:58:55 -0800
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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On 2/17/2015 6:48 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I have three of the Harbor Freight retractable reels in my shop.

I have two of the Harbor Freight hose reels.  So far so good, one's been 
in regular use for 8+ years, the other 6+.

Considerations: the rubber hose is okay, not great.  When the hose 
started to crack around the threaded end I cut the end off the hose, 
bought a barbed quick-connect socket from McMaster-Carr, installed it 
with a couple Oetiker clamps, and put some heatshrink over the clamps. 
If it starts to crack again I'll cut it and move it up four inches.  The 
ball valves in the branches are a good idea, wish I'd done so 
consistently, though the only leakage in my air system comes from crud 
accumulating in the quick-connect sockets, not in the hosereel hardware.

Before you put the hosereel up on the wall remove the four nuts and 
lockwashers that hold the reel to the ratchet assembly and reinstall 
them tightly with some red Loctite.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 17 20:00:27 2015
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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> If it starts to crack again I'll cut it and move it up four inches.

Just FYI relative to that: I use whip hoses on the air tools, I buy the 
long (30in I think) hoses and cut them in half, then put a barbed 
fitting and a couple Oetikers in the cut halves, works out considerably 
cheaper than buying finished hoses for some reason.

John.
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 22:10:15 -0500
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>,
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
 FILETIME=[6B0921C0:01D04B28]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tried the HF one and found it leaked as soon as I opened the box. Back it went
b/c who wants to deal with that bs.
There are some really nice, Made in USA, "pro" reels on Amazon, but couldn't
justify spending that much.  Went with a Griot's garage one and have been
happy the last year with it.  I had heard good things including how they stand
behind the products they sell.  I'm sure the reel is a design you could find
cheaper elsewhere...
With the recent cold snap it got down to 15F while in the garage a couple
nights ago, and the hose was stiff but not impossible to use.
What I did find interesting is that the quick release hose connections for my
impact gun and tire filler both leaked a little bit.  They never do that, but
I don't usually work in the garage with air tools in that kind of cold either.
Weird.
-PJ

>     Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 17 20:21:32 2015
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 <COL127-W9F5F40C08049DE76498899A2C0@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2015 19:26:06 -0800
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey guys,

These work well if you don't mind hand cranking them.  They don't leak, made in the US and should last a lifetime.  Replacement parts are available:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-reels/=vyfqvj


best,


doug

los angeles
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
'13 Cadillac ATS

________________________________
 From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
 

Tried the HF one and found it leaked as soon as I opened the box. Back it went
b/c who wants to deal with that bs.
There are some really nice, Made in USA, "pro" reels on Amazon, but couldn't
justify spending that much.  Went with a Griot's garage one and have been
happy the last year with it.  I had heard good things including how they stand
behind the products they sell.  I'm sure the reel is a design you could find
cheaper elsewhere...
With the recent cold snap it got down to 15F while in the garage a couple
nights ago, and the hose was stiff but not impossible to use.
What I did find interesting is that the quick release hose connections for my
impact gun and tire filler both leaked a little bit.  They never do that, but
I don't usually work in the garage with air tools in that kind of cold either.
Weird.
-PJ

>     Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 18 06:21:56 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 08:09:01 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/18/2015 08:08:55, Serialize complete at
 02/18/2015 08:08:55
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a total of 8 reels in my shop.  They are different styles and price 
points.

The manual winding ones are far preferred when the reel is someplace that 
you can reach.  The automatic type constantly 'stack' the hose on one side 
and then you need to pull it out a little way and rewind it.

I do have one of the economy manual winding reel on the McMaster Carr 
page.  I had to replace a washer on it and it was easy.  The one thing 
about it that I don't like, is that with the arms sticking out, if you are 
winding the hose out in anything but a straight line, the hose will catch 
on them.  I would definitely prefer a model with the disc sides instead of 
the four arms.

FWIW, I do have a few cheapies from HF.  They all work now (one needed 
tweaking when I got it.)  They are holding up pretty well.  As a testament 
to one of them, it's mounted on my lift upright.  I raised the lift when 
the body was over the arm as it went up.  I stopped it after it took some 
crushing.  But the unit still works even though the body is messed up.

I try to turn my air lines off when I leave the shop.  I do have minor 
leaks in the system, but it's nothing that can be heard, and I'm not sure 
it's at any of the reels (or just there.)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net> 
Sent by: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
02/17/2015 10:08 PM
Please respond to
old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>


To
PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>, Shop Talk 
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec






Hey guys,

These work well if you don't mind hand cranking them.  They don't leak, 
made in the US and should last a lifetime.  Replacement parts are 
available:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-reels/=vyfqvj


best,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 18 12:08:23 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 11:12:56 -0800
Thread-Index: AdBLforGUcwf20hlSuOQ/HjCnnkoJQAL7O0g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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> I try to turn my air lines off when I leave the shop. 

I forgot once, and got a rather panicked call from the housekeeper.  The fitting had popped off the end of the hose, and the hose
was whipping around everywhere, making a terrible racket.  Fortunately didn't do any serious damage; and it has never happened
again; but it still seems like a good enough reason not to leave the flexible lines under pressure.

My long term plan is to install a motor-operated ball valve at the compressor (along with a contactor to kill power to the motor)
and connect it to a wall switch in the garage.  But for the moment, I just walk out and close a manual valve.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 14:24:03 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 2:12 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
> My long term plan is to install a motor-operated ball valve at the compressor (along with a contactor to kill power to the motor)
> and connect it to a wall switch in the garage.  But for the moment, I just walk out and close a manual valve.

I got a contactor and one of these:  http://www.zoro.com/i/G1676692/
when I had a good sale price.  Haven't installed it yet, but I'll have
a switch by the door with a pilot light.

In my other hobby, I have the basement configured such that all the
switches are down when I leave means that everything is safely shut
off.  Easy habit to develop.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 18 13:42:41 2015
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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 15:47:17 -0500
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.4.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
 <54E3FD82.8080800@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with David that we *should* be able to make fittings that don't 
leak any more, but after I spent forever trying to have a leak free 
system, I gave up and just put ball valves everywhere too. My QD 
fittings also leak, and I'm sure other stuff does too. I've now gone 
almost to the opposite extreme and so long as the line hold pressure 
while I'm trying to use it, I'm happy. I've decided my air lines are 
like the SR-71's fuel tanks--they're *supposed* to leak somewhat.

Though I'm contemplating a new garage, and if that happens, the whole 
thing will be black iron and it'll so tight that it'll hold full 
pressure for months. I'll still use ball valves, but if I got to start 
from scratch, I'm going to have something that will make me cry (with 
happiness).

Scott

On 2/17/2015 9:48 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I have three of the Harbor Freight retractable reels in my shop. The 
> reels don't seem to leak, but on two of them the short hoses from my 
> copper air lines to the hose reel developed leaks and I just replaced 
> them with regular hose.  I also have a 3/4" ball valve on the wall 
> where the air line comes into the shop from the shed and I keep it 
> closed whenever I'm not in the shop.  My lines don't leak but 
> sometimes the QD fittings do.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a friend resto moding a '57 Ford in his first class restoration garage
nee dairy barn. Much to my surprise, he uses the white plastic pipe to run air
from his industrial sized compressor all over the place. He said it's been in
place for about 25 years and he's had only one leak. Next time I'm by, I'll
look at how he does retractable hoses if he does.
Brian K


On Feb 18, 2015, at 3:47 PM, Scott wrote:

> I agree with David that we *should* be able to make fittings that don't leak
any more, but after I spent forever trying to have a leak free system, I gave
up and just put ball valves everywhere too. My QD fittings also leak, and I'm
sure other stuff does too. I've now gone almost to the opposite extreme and so
long as the line hold pressure while I'm trying to use it, I'm happy. I've
decided my air lines are like the SR-71's fuel tanks--they're *supposed* to
leak somewhat.
>
> Though I'm contemplating a new garage, and if that happens, the whole thing
will be black iron and it'll so tight that it'll hold full pressure for
months. I'll still use ball valves, but if I got to start from scratch, I'm
going to have something that will make me cry (with happiness).
>
> Scott
>
> On 2/17/2015 9:48 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
>> I have three of the Harbor Freight retractable reels in my shop. The reels
don't seem to leak, but on two of them the short hoses from my copper air
lines to the hose reel developed leaks and I just replaced them with regular
hose.  I also have a 3/4" ball valve on the wall where the air line comes into
the shop from the shed and I keep it closed whenever I'm not in the shop.  My
lines don't leak but sometimes the QD fittings do.
> _
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 17:01:30 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Shop Talk 'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
 <54E3FD82.8080800@frontier.com> <54E4FA55.80208@gmail.com>
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User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, 18 Feb 2015, Brian Kennedy wrote:
> I have a friend resto moding a '57 Ford in his first class restoration garage
> nee dairy barn. Much to my surprise, he uses the white plastic pipe to run air
> from his industrial sized compressor all over the place. He said it's been in
> place for about 25 years and he's had only one leak. Next time I'm by, I'll
> look at how he does retractable hoses if he does.

    You might want to tell him to rip that pipe out, while you are there. 
It is lethal when it blows, which it will do, eventually.  I'd wear a 
helmet when I visit, if I were you.

"Dear Mr. Cannova:

In response to your recent inquiry concerning our regulatory position on 
the use of plastic pipe for compressed air systems, I trust this letter 
will clear up any confusion over the issue.

It is our position that PVC pipe shall not be used as a means of 
transporting compressed air. This position follows the manufacturer's own 
statements that PVC is unsuitable for compressed air systems. We do allow 
the use of certain ABS materials that are specifically designed for 
compressed air systems. One such product is "Duraplus" air line piping 
system ABS pipe. However, as in any such system, the manufacturer's 
specifications on acceptable pressure and temperature considerations must 
be followed.

In closing, misapplication of a product, such as using PVC for compressed 
air systems, may result in citations and penalties being issued dependent 
upon the specific conditions."
- https://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 17:06:35 -0500
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm torn on this subject. On the one hand, yes, why would you ever use 
PVC when you could use anything else, and I've heard of PVC grenade-ing 
with awful results.

On the other, I've had a compressed air PVC line explode literally right 
above my head, and aside from the noise, it was no big deal.

I'd never recommend PVC lines, but I've spent a lot of time around them. 
The one time one blew, it didn't spray the room with lethal shards.

Scott

On 2/18/2015 5:01 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2015, Brian Kennedy wrote:
>> I have a friend resto moding a '57 Ford in his first class 
>> restoration garage
>> nee dairy barn. Much to my surprise, he uses the white plastic pipe 
>> to run air
>> from his industrial sized compressor all over the place. He said it's 
>> been in
>> place for about 25 years and he's had only one leak. Next time I'm 
>> by, I'll
>> look at how he does retractable hoses if he does.
>
>    You might want to tell him to rip that pipe out, while you are 
> there. It is lethal when it blows, which it will do, eventually. I'd 
> wear a helmet when I visit, if I were you.
>
> "Dear Mr. Cannova:
>
> In response to your recent inquiry concerning our regulatory position 
> on the use of plastic pipe for compressed air systems, I trust this 
> letter will clear up any confusion over the issue.
>
> It is our position that PVC pipe shall not be used as a means of 
> transporting compressed air. This position follows the manufacturer's 
> own statements that PVC is unsuitable for compressed air systems. We 
> do allow the use of certain ABS materials that are specifically 
> designed for compressed air systems. One such product is "Duraplus" 
> air line piping system ABS pipe. However, as in any such system, the 
> manufacturer's specifications on acceptable pressure and temperature 
> considerations must be followed.
>
> In closing, misapplication of a product, such as using PVC for 
> compressed air systems, may result in citations and penalties being 
> issued dependent upon the specific conditions."
> - https://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 18 16:09:12 2015
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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 18:13:45 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
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User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, 18 Feb 2015, Scott wrote:
> I'd never recommend PVC lines, but I've spent a lot of time around them. The 
> one time one blew, it didn't spray the room with lethal shards.

    The last time I took a grinder to a piece of metal, a shard bounced 
harmlessly off my cheek.  Now I figure there's no reason to wear eye 
protection.

    It'd be one thing if it was just copper and steel pipe manufacturers 
telling everyone not to use PVC, since they'd have an obvious ulterior 
motive.  But every single maker of PVC pipe tells everyone not to use 
their product for compressed air ( in addition to OSHA and well, everybody 
else ).

<http://www.harvel.com/piping-systems/gf-harvel-pvc-industrial-pipe/schedule-40-80/temperature-derating>

    Just that chart alone should be enough to convince even the cheapest, 
most-safety-averse person that PVC for compressed air is stupid.  Average 
compressor outlet temperature is around double the rating for the pipe... 
and at half that temperature, the pipe strength is basically maxed out by 
a typical compressor ( 600 psi * .22 de-rate for 140* = 132 psi when brand 
new! ).

    If you consider a safety margin of zero acceptable, then I guess I have 
no further comment.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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    I would apologize for hijacking the thread, but it was mine to begin 
with, so...

    I'm amazed everytime this subject comes up that some people still won't 
believe that compressed air in PVC is dangerous because it hasn't happened 
to them.  It takes no effort at all to find hundreds of stories like this 
one...

"Basil - I was working in a commercial radiator shop (in Sidney) and our 
PVC lines worked perfectly (for several years), right until they failed 
catastrophically.

The explosion that occurred was instant and complete, with an amazing 
amount of shrapnel flying around. It's not something I'd wish on anyone 
and for the sake of saving a few $$ or a bit of time on the install, PVC 
airlines just aren't worth the risk.

Not only will I never install PVC for airlines, I'll not even set foot in 
a shop that has them."

or this one...

"As to PVC: NO!!

My last (huge) shop came pre-plumbed with 1" PVC air lines. When the one 
branch let go, it shot a six-foot-long, javelin-pointed piece of pipe at 
me, which slammed into the bandsaw I was working with at the time, 
shattering the pipe.

PVC? No way."
- http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?104099-CVPC-or-PVC-Air-line


    Why insist on replicating mistakes that have already been made?  At 
least make NEW mistakes.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502181748170.62555@itonami.pair.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2/18/2015 6:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2015, Scott wrote:
>> I'd never recommend PVC lines, but I've spent a lot of time around 
>> them. The one time one blew, it didn't spray the room with lethal 
>> shards.
>
>    The last time I took a grinder to a piece of metal, a shard bounced 
> harmlessly off my cheek.  Now I figure there's no reason to wear eye 
> protection.

I think it's more like "you'll die a fiery death if you don't obey the 
speed limit". Yes, sometimes you will. But the vast overwhelming 
majority of the time, you're fine.

And I think that's the problem with that argument. Like I said, I'd 
never use PVC, because I don't want to be the 1 in 100,000,000 that gets 
my eye put out. But I also won't be running screaming from a shop if I 
see PVC air lines.

I won't hang out under them, but it's not on the same level as, say, a 
hungry Bengal tiger or angry king cobra.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
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Sounds like my surprise was justified.
Brian K.

On Feb 18, 2015, at 6:26 PM, David Hillman wrote:

>   I would apologize for hijacking the thread, but it was mine to begin with,
so...
>
>   I'm amazed everytime this subject comes up that some people still won't
believe that compressed air in PVC is dangerous because it hasn't happened to
them.  It takes no effort at all to find hundreds of stories like this one...
>
> "Basil - I was working in a commercial radiator shop (in Sidney) and our PVC
lines worked perfectly (for several years), right until they failed
catastrophically.
>
> The explosion that occurred was instant and complete, with an amazing amount
of shrapnel flying around. It's not something I'd wish on anyone and for the
sake of saving a few $$ or a bit of time on the install, PVC airlines just
aren't worth the risk.
>
> Not only will I never install PVC for airlines, I'll not even set foot in a
shop that has them."
>
> or this one...
>
> "As to PVC: NO!!
>
> My last (huge) shop came pre-plumbed with 1" PVC air lines. When the one
branch let go, it shot a six-foot-long, javelin-pointed piece of pipe at me,
which slammed into the bandsaw I was working with at the time, shattering the
pipe.
>
> PVC? No way."
> - http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?104099-CVPC-or-PVC-Air-line
>
>
>   Why insist on replicating mistakes that have already been made?  At least
make NEW mistakes.
>
> --
> David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 18 17:51:51 2015
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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 17:56:23 -0700
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
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To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
 <54E3FD82.8080800@frontier.com> <54E4FA55.80208@gmail.com>
 <7ACA1E84-4E72-4220-9A06-A160588DA794@comcast.net>
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 <54E50CEB.8010703@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502181748170.62555@itonami.pair.com>
 <54E520DA.5000605@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2/18/2015 4:31 PM, Scott wrote:
> On 2/18/2015 6:13 PM, David Hillman wrote:
>> On Wed, 18 Feb 2015, Scott wrote:
>>> I'd never recommend PVC lines, but I've spent a lot of time around 
>>> them. The one time one blew, it didn't spray the room with lethal 
>>> shards.
>>
>>    The last time I took a grinder to a piece of metal, a shard 
>> bounced harmlessly off my cheek.  Now I figure there's no reason to 
>> wear eye protection.
>
> I think it's more like "you'll die a fiery death if you don't obey the 
> speed limit". Yes, sometimes you will. But the vast overwhelming 
> majority of the time, you're fine.
>
> And I think that's the problem with that argument. Like I said, I'd 
> never use PVC, because I don't want to be the 1 in 100,000,000 that 
> gets my eye put out. But I also won't be running screaming from a shop 
> if I see PVC air lines.
>
> I won't hang out under them, but it's not on the same level as, say, a 
> hungry Bengal tiger or angry king cobra.

All that said, bad practices predict bad outcomes.  No, most of the 
time, one won't end up dying a fiery death exceeding the speed limit, 
but the odds of doing so go up dramatically if one's tires are bald, 
brakes are shot and the accelerator linkage is cobbled together with 
coathangers and twine--especially if one exhibits a lack of awareness of 
the potential for disaster such compromises inevitably entail.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 23:04:15 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 5:29 PM, David Hillman
<hillman@planet-torque.com> wrote:
>    I want to add a retractable air hose reel in my shop, so I can have air
> out in the driveway and other places, without wrestling with the 100' hose I
> have now.  I don't need 100', 75 or even 50 would be fine.  My priority is
> that it not leak.  I have no leaks in my system now, and don't want to add
> any.  It would be nice to have hose that stays flexible when cold, as it
> gets a little chilly here in Illinois ( -10 F tonight, supposedly ) and I
> will use it then, to inflate trailer and iceracer tires, among other things.
>
>    Any recommendations to buy, or ones to avoid?  Thanks.

I won't comment on the reel, or pvc pipe, as others seem to have that
covered.  But I will comment about the hose.  Get good quality rubber,
not plastic, hose.  Goodyear sells some good stuff, that's readily
available and not terribly expensive.  (50' of 3/8 hose for ~$30) It
works well down below zero.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 19 09:03:27 2015
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 11:07:43 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I got a new car (1025 Subaru Outback), and I realized that newer cars use
those plastic rivet-clips (the kind with the pop-up center pin)
EVERYWHERE.  Do they make any special sort of tool for easily removing
these without risking scratching the surround area, or busting the clip?
Most of the time you can pry them with a little screwdriver, but that can
be rough on them.

Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 19 09:17:52 2015
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 10:22:23 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a trim panel remover on those. (like this one
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1424362815&sr=1-3&keywords=trim+panel+remover)
I put a little tape on the back side to avoid scratches, but they make
these in plastic now, it might be a better choice for this application.
It works pretty well on newer parts.  On ones that have seen some miles I
find the heads often break off when I try to pop them up.  When that happen
I just push the center pin out with a small screwdriver and install a new
fastener when I reassemble.

On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 10:07 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I got a new car (1025 Subaru Outback), and I realized that newer cars use
> those plastic rivet-clips (the kind with the pop-up center pin)
> EVERYWHERE.  Do they make any special sort of tool for easily removing
> these without risking scratching the surround area, or busting the clip?
> Most of the time you can pry them with a little screwdriver, but that can
> be rough on them.
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 19 09:22:26 2015
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 10:24:04 -0600
From: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, Shop-Talk
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9Vo76rdc59xu0deifdb1T8iDEaihad8perm6P2yXfc3zw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug,

I have a 2015 Scion. This is probably common knowledge but it took me a 
while to figure it out.

I usually just push the pin further in and then the rivet seems to 
easily pop out. I need to be careful to not push the pin "to far in" as 
the pin then falls out the back side of the rivet and into the 
unreachable spots in the car. Just a light push usually moves the pin to 
the "can get the rivet out" position that seems to be designed into the 
setup.

If I need tools I've got these ...

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-upholstery-and-trim-tool-set-99739.html

Arvid

On 2/19/2015 10:07 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I got a new car (1025 Subaru Outback), and I realized that newer cars use
> those plastic rivet-clips (the kind with the pop-up center pin)
> EVERYWHERE.  Do they make any special sort of tool for easily removing
> these without risking scratching the surround area, or busting the clip?
> Most of the time you can pry them with a little screwdriver, but that can
> be rough on them.
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 11:43:05 -0500
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAOtbU9Vo76rdc59xu0deifdb1T8iDEaihad8perm6P2yXfc3zw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw a guy online use a hook tool from a pick set. Actually seemed to 
work better than the tool I have (like the one John posted) for removing 
them. Probably 30% of the time I break them with the tool. He worked the 
loop of the hook under the head and pulled.

I *hate* those things. They've been on every new-ish car I've worked on 
for the last ten years or so.

On 2/19/2015 11:07 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I got a new car (1025 Subaru Outback), and I realized that newer cars use
> those plastic rivet-clips (the kind with the pop-up center pin)
> EVERYWHERE.  Do they make any special sort of tool for easily removing
> these without risking scratching the surround area, or busting the clip?
> Most of the time you can pry them with a little screwdriver, but that can
> be rough on them.
>
> Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 <54E60E24.6030508@visi.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 11:51:24 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Arvid <arvidj@visi.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have some of those generic plastic pry-things, but I noticed a different
style of tool that HF sells:

  http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html

The next time I pass by the local HF, I'll have a look at it.

Doug

On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Arvid <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:

> Doug,
>
> I have a 2015 Scion. This is probably common knowledge but it took me a
> while to figure it out.
>
> I usually just push the pin further in and then the rivet seems to easily
> pop out. I need to be careful to not push the pin "to far in" as the pin
> then falls out the back side of the rivet and into the unreachable spots in
> the car. Just a light push usually moves the pin to the "can get the rivet
> out" position that seems to be designed into the setup.
>
> If I need tools I've got these ...
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-
> tool-set-67021.html
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-upholstery-and-trim-
> tool-set-99739.html
>
> Arvid
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 19 10:37:46 2015
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 09:38:54 -0800
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54721EF3.4040207@gmail.com>
 <alpine.BSF.2.02.1502171823420.74386@itonami.pair.com>
 <CA+k5supLh+tMmW7O6JsTgakFfBo_FkD6z0MrdA08VJi1B1CbKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Air Hose Reel Rec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I won't comment on the reel, or pvc pipe, as others seem to have that
> covered.  But I will comment about the hose.  Get good quality rubber,
> not plastic, hose.  Goodyear sells some good stuff, that's readily
> available and not terribly expensive.  (50' of 3/8 hose for ~$30) It
> works well down below zero.

Yeah, good rubber hose.

Good luck getting a plastic hose to coil back onto a reel in anything 
less than 75deg F temps.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 12:59:36 -0500
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.4.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAOtbU9Vo76rdc59xu0deifdb1T8iDEaihad8perm6P2yXfc3zw@mail.gmail.com>
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 <CAOtbU9URpvPi8CC7TXwhemMAjkCm5Sy1TmzgJY+Bcf6ADXuzZg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh--seeing that reminded me of the other thing I saw online--wire 
cutters (dykes?). The guy forced the 'blades' under the head of the 
retainer, closed slightly, and pulled it out that way.

(I have a new Nissan, Cadillac, Volkswagen(s), and older Mazdas and 
Toyotas that are *loaded* with these things. After I destroyed the ones 
holding the Cadillac's front valance on a while back I finally started 
looking around on how to get them off in the least-destructive way possible.

I still don't like them.

On 2/19/2015 11:51 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> I have some of those generic plastic pry-things, but I noticed a different
> style of tool that HF sells:
>
>    http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html
>
> The next time I pass by the local HF, I'll have a look at it.
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Arvid <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
>
>> Doug,
>>
>> I have a 2015 Scion. This is probably common knowledge but it took me a
>> while to figure it out.
>>
>> I usually just push the pin further in and then the rivet seems to easily
>> pop out. I need to be careful to not push the pin "to far in" as the pin
>> then falls out the back side of the rivet and into the unreachable spots in
>> the car. Just a light push usually moves the pin to the "can get the rivet
>> out" position that seems to be designed into the setup.
>>
>> If I need tools I've got these ...
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-
>> tool-set-67021.html
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-upholstery-and-trim-
>> tool-set-99739.html
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 19 11:11:54 2015
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 10:16:30 -0800
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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 <54E62488.9090406@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2/19/2015 9:59 AM, Scott wrote:
> Oh--seeing that reminded me of the other thing I saw online--wire
> cutters (dykes?). The guy forced the 'blades' under the head of the
> retainer, closed slightly, and pulled it out that way.

That's mostly how I do it.

There's also the ones that have the push-stud with no head in the 
middle, and the only way to remove them is to push the stud through the 
fastener and hope you can find it on the other side when it falls out. 
When I'm doing a job that involves these things I try to have a few 
spare fasteners around...

> (I have a new Nissan, Cadillac, Volkswagen(s), and older Mazdas and
> Toyotas that are *loaded* with these things. After I destroyed the ones
> holding the Cadillac's front valance on a while back I finally started
> looking around on how to get them off in the least-destructive way
> possible.

 From an assembly perspective they hold the parts together fairly snugly 
but not TOO tight, if you're talking about something like a plastic 
underbody cover or a bumper cap, something that hits the panel and 
displaces it will tear the panel if it's held in with a screw, the 
plastic fastener will let the panel shift.

There are places that stuff like this just doesn't work, though.  Have a 
look under the last decade's Honda Odysseys sometime, half the ones 
going down the road have the front pan hanging down.

My nomination for pure silliness goes to the spring clips that hold the 
front half of the fender liner to the bottom of the bumper cap on '97-00 
BMW E39 5-series.  Even a slight curb/parking block tap on the bottom of 
the fender liner will pull it loose from the bumper and it'll blow back 
and chew itself up on the tire.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 13:37:32 -0500
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Special tool for those plastic rivet clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

This is how I frequently get these clips out.

I've never see one where you push the pin in further to loosen it.

Mark

On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 12:59 PM, Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Oh--seeing that reminded me of the other thing I saw online--wire cutters
> (dykes?). The guy forced the 'blades' under the head of the retainer,
> closed slightly, and pulled it out that way.
>
> (I have a new Nissan, Cadillac, Volkswagen(s), and older Mazdas and
> Toyotas that are *loaded* with these things. After I destroyed the ones
> holding the Cadillac's front valance on a while back I finally started
> looking around on how to get them off in the least-destructive way possible.
>
> I still don't like them.
>
> On 2/19/2015 11:51 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
>
>> I have some of those generic plastic pry-things, but I noticed a different
>> style of tool that HF sells:
>>
>>    http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html
>>
>> The next time I pass by the local HF, I'll have a look at it.
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Arvid <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:
>>
>>  Doug,
>>>
>>> I have a 2015 Scion. This is probably common knowledge but it took me a
>>> while to figure it out.
>>>
>>> I usually just push the pin further in and then the rivet seems to easily
>>> pop out. I need to be careful to not push the pin "to far in" as the pin
>>> then falls out the back side of the rivet and into the unreachable spots
>>> in
>>> the car. Just a light push usually moves the pin to the "can get the
>>> rivet
>>> out" position that seems to be designed into the setup.
>>>
>>> If I need tools I've got these ...
>>>
>>> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-
>>> tool-set-67021.html
>>>
>>> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-upholstery-and-trim-
>>> tool-set-99739.html
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> maracing.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

