Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts

From: Philip Nase <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 08:10:13 -0500

Brad
I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work well.
They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.

Phil Nase
Applebachsville, PA
http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/

> On Jan 4, 2015, at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
> chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
> particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to handle my
> Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>
> Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
> the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
> above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after all!)
>
> I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold trays
> but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
> probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish the
> same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
> specific distance apart.
>
> Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you like
> them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
> platforms this coming weekend.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
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From: Paul Parkanzky <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 08:23:26 -0500

Hi Brad,

On Saturday, we reassembled my four post hydraulic over cable lift (Direct
Lift Pro Park) because we moved to a new home.  Mine came with the trays,
but since none of the cars I've ever stored up there have leaked anything
I've never even taken them out of the box they came in.  I think that the
important thing about the trays is that they are "trays" and not "sheets."
 So if something does leak onto them they would collect it instead of it
just finding an edge and dripping down somewhere else.

If all you want are leak trays and you are building them, then what I'd do
is make them wide enough to span your lift platforms.  Then you don't need
any sort of rail.  Your car tires likely don't end up at the inside edges
of the platforms, so you should still be able to park on them.  I wouldn't
build them out of plywood or anything else absorbent and I'd make sure that
they sit on the platforms or rails, but then drop down in-between to form a
place to collect fluids.

Good Luck,

-Paul

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:01:09 -0500

I hadn't realized those trays are plastic and not sheet metal.  How wide
are the trays, and do you often have to adjust the width of the platforms
for different vehicles?

Thanks!

Brad

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:05:16 -0500

Paul,

You've got a good point about not using something flat and/or absorbent.
I'd rather not add the attachment rails if I don't have to so laying them
on top of the platforms is probably my best option.  I think I'll check
with an HVAC company and see if they can make some trays for me out sheet
metal.  Having them add the diagonal creasing would probably be a good idea
as well in helping fluids to puddle in the middle.

Thanks!

Brad

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:41:42 -0500

Yes, platforms are the long beams that you park the vehicle on.

I hadn't realized the platforms were not adjustable on the newer lifts.  My
platforms can be adjusted out to almost 9' outside edge to outside edge and
can also be moved together to where they touch each other.  That's why I've
struggled with what to do about leakage trays.

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:13 AM, Paul Parkanzky <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I assume by "platforms," you're referring to are the long beams that you
> are actually driving on?  If so, those are a fixed width on every four post
> lift I've ever seen.  If I put something as wide as my heavy-duty pickup on
> the lift the tires are closer to the outside and if I put a narrow roadster
> on they're closer to the inside, but not really by much.
>
> -Paul
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:01 AM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>> > > particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to
>> handle
>> > my
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:42:22 -0500

That's thinking outside the box :)

I don't know why I was thinking full coverage under a vehicle, it only
needs to be in the area where the drips come from.  Of course on a Triumph
that's leaking and being driven the leaks could be coming from anywhere!

I'll have to keep my eyes open for alternatives to plastic or metal trays.

Thanks,

Brad

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:53:48 -0500

Phil,

It sounds like your platforms are in a fixed position.  Since my platforms
go from 0" gap to about 80"  gap it looks like something that lays on top
of the platforms would be my best approach.  My TR4 is a real leaker right
now so finding a reasonable solution is high on my list!

Thanks,

Brad

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:46 AM, Philip Nase <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hey Brad,
> I have an AC Lift. The inner sides have a lip that the trays hang upon.
> I'll have to measure them to be sure of the width, close to 3 feet I would
> estimate. I have a Bugeye Sprite on the lift usually and it's a leaker. The
> Sprite just fits with a few inches to spare on the inner sides of the lift.
>
> There is also a heavy steel pan on mine that allows a jack to be used. I
> have 3 plastic pans that I can easily position under the diff, trans and
> engine where I need them.
>
> Phil Nase
> Applebachsville, PA
> On Jan 5, 2015, at 9:01 AM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>> I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work
>> well. They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.
>>
>> Phil Nase
>> Applebachsville, PA
>> handle my

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 10:11:51 -0500

Wow, I hope my TR4 doesn't leak that bad that I need a drain hose!

Not sure about this sort of approach but that brings to mind the thought of
adding rails to my platforms and then using sheet plastic (4 or 6 mil) and
suspending it between the platforms.  That means the "tray' would be
disposable and I could then cut the plastic based on where my platforms
are.  Something to think about....

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:48 AM, John Innis <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Maybe not the _best_ solution, but the facilities guys where I work have
> an interesting solution to this type of issue.  They have heavy duty tarps
> that they stretch over areas where the roof leaks.  Then they attach a hose
> the the center of the tarp and run it to a floor drain (if one is handy) or
> a bucket.  It is definitely adjustable and easy to store, but maybe not the
> best for long term usage.
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:42 AM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>

[email-masked]

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From: "Eric J Russell" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 20:57:19 -0500

> Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
> like them?

Since a four post lift excels at storage, it seems like drip trays are a
good idea!

I have a Direct Lift ProPark 9 - I bought that model because it has ramps a
few inches wider than other models. This allows it to fit the narrow track
of my smaller cars (MGA, Alfa Romeo) and also my F250 pick-up.

> My platforms can be adjusted out to almost 9' outside edge to outside edge
> and can also be moved together to where they touch each other.  That's why
> I've struggled with what to do about leakage trays.

I thought about a lift with a moveable ramp but that makes both drip trays &
a jacking bridge problematic.

For your lift with moveable ramps, how about a few spring tension shower
curtain poles? They could be fairly easily adjusted for the varying ramp
widths and could then support a few light weight drip trays.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

[email-masked]

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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 21:20:50 -0800

How about some 6mil plastic sheeting and a frame of PVC pipe or 
conduit?  Two pipes will run the length of the vehicle, resting on the 
platform inside the tires, and two shorter lengths can be attached to 
T's as spreaders.  Change the length of the spreaders based on vehicle 
width.  Thinking something like this (imagine there is no line spacing):

|_|
|_|
| |

You could get fancy and put a couple hooks on the inside of the 
platforms and set the pipe in them.

You could make the plastic a little wider at one end so there is slope 
for any drippings to drain off.  When not in use, just roll it up.

Should you bump it while working on one of the cars, no danger of it 
scratching the bottom car with PVC either.

Brian, wishing a lift of any sort was a possibility.
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 09:14:05 -0500

Eric,

In the past when I had the lift setup it did seem to have a lot of "stuff"
sitting on it when I wasn't using it :)

The ramps on mine are 14" wide.  This is an early lift built by a company
called Grand out of Texas.  It just so happens the model of my lift is
"TR3".  Somehow that just seemed appropriate to me!

The adjustable shower poles is an interesting suggestion.  That might work
well with something Marty suggested to me.

Thanks for the idea!

Brad

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 09:31:02 -0500

Brian,

This is another good idea for creating an alternative to drip pans.

I've come to the conclusion that I won't be adding the angles at the bottom
of the platforms/ramps partly because of all the good ideas I've gotten for
alternative drip pans and also due to the interference they would have
caused with my jacking platform.

I fabricated a platform that drops down between the platform/ramps where I
can place a bottle jack.  The bottle jack platform is designed for the
width of my Triumphs so is somewhat limited in use but I value it more than
drip pans :)

Thanks!

Brad

On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 12:20 AM, Brian Kemp <[email-masked]> wrote:

>  How about some 6mil plastic sheeting and a frame of PVC pipe or conduit?
> Two pipes will run the length of the vehicle, resting on the platform
> inside the tires, and two shorter lengths can be attached to T's as
> spreaders.  Change the length of the spreaders based on vehicle width.
> Thinking something like this (imagine there is no line spacing):
>
> |_|
> |_|
> | |
>
> You could get fancy and put a couple hooks on the inside of the platforms
> and set the pipe in them.
>
> You could make the plastic a little wider at one end so there is slope for
> any drippings to drain off.  When not in use, just roll it up.
>

[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 09:49:32 -0500

Another aspect of my 4-post lift is the effort required to push the
platforms sideways when changing from one vehicle width to another.  The
platforms are HEAVY and don't slide all that well and tend to bind when
pushing on then ends.  I've been wondering it would help if I added some
thin adhesive backed UHMW strips across the beams and on the underside of
the platforms.  Would the UHMW strips last and would they help in getting
the platforms to slide easier?

Thanks!

Brad

[email-masked]

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From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 19:50:40 -0600

> the platforms to slide easier?

I would try slip plate first.  It's a graphite lubricant, designed for
sliding surfaces.  Doesn't attract muck like greases do, and stays in
place pretty well.  You can get it in a spray can, or as a brush on.

-- 
David Scheidt
[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 13:51:45 -0500

David,

I'm not sure that slip plate would be appropriate for my situation.  I need
to be able to sit and/or stand on the cross beams where the slip plate
would be applied.   I have a feeling things might get a little messy in my
shop using that product!

Brad

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:15:25 -0500

Ok, next issue with the 4-post lift.  The in-feed ramps on my lift were
fixed ramps (welded to the platforms) and were only about 16" long.  That
made for a pretty steep angle.  Matter of fact the Spitfire race car
couldn't get started up the ramps because of the slick shop floor, the
tires just spun on the concrete.

I've already cut those ramps off and am trying to figure out what would
work the best as a replacement.  Right now I'm leaning towards fabricating
ramps that are significantly longer but are not fixed to the platforms.  My
thought is to possibly have them attach with a pin of some sort which would
allow me to remove them so they can be moved out of the way once the lift
is up in the air.
I don't think I would like having them pivot down as they would just be in
the way and I had previously hit my head on the original ramps enough times
to know I don't like them sticking out!

Thoughts?

[email-masked]

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From: Paul Parkanzky <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:20:06 -0500

The ramps on my lift "hook" on the cross-member.  I don't see the need for
pins, since gravity will do the job of holding them down.  Here's a link to
optional Aluminum ramps for my lift.  I don't recommend a $300 set of Al
ramps, but they'll give you an idea of how they work:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Aluminum-Approach-Ramps-pair

-Paul

[email-masked]

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From: Larry Spector <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:21:16 -0500

I went with the bend-pak aluminum ramps:
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/accessories/aluminum-approach-ramp-kit.aspx

they're light enough to just pick up and move out of the way.

-Larry

On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:32:54 -0500

Paul, the style shown in the link won't work for my lift as my platforms
hook over the beams blocking any place to hook the ramps.

However the ones Larry Spector is referring to would definitely work.  The
attachment method is simpler than pins and the fab shop down the road can
easily bend some aluminum diamond plate for me that should work just fine.

Thanks guys!

Brad

On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:20 PM, Paul Parkanzky <[email-masked]> wrote:

>> fixed ramps (welded to the platforms) and were only about 16" long.
>> That.......

[email-masked]

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 09:49:01 -0500

Robo,

My platforms (rails?) are adjustable which allows me to lift small vehicles
and large vehicles just by sliding the platforms.

I sure do wish Boeing was in my area!

Thanks,

Brad

On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 4:39 PM, ROBERT LANE <[email-masked]> wrote:

> *I  have a 4 post lift.  The distance between the inside of the rail webs
> is 43 & 5/8"  I have 48inch square  storage shelves turned  upside down
> between the tails. to compensate for the slop. I used light springs,
> washers & 1/4" bolts on the corners on one side.*
> *Note the storage shelves is what Boeing  uses for storing all kind of
> things.  The only color I have seen the shelves is white. They come with
> the holes predrilled and ready to assemble.*
> * Hopes this helps*
>
> CATCH YOU LATER,
>      ROBO

[email-masked]

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From: Matt Wehland <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 09:19:59 -0600

The aluminum ramps are pricey, but they sure are nice every time you 
move them.
And they are not toe crushers when dropped while moving or if knocked over.
My dad had them and we loved them.
Can't remember how many times we used them over the years and said ' boy 
they sure were expensive, but worth it'
At least for us.
Especially as dad got older.
He is done working on cars and sold the lifts last year, when we had to 
move the steel ramps from the basement I remembered why I was happy that 
he had bought one set of the aluminum.
Not that you can't lift the steel ones, but the ease of the aluminum was 
nice.

And the steel middle plate for the lift was a bear (set of plates that 
fill in the middle of the lift for storage).
  We moved it by hand a few times, then I used the engine hoist once we 
got it.
Only issue was trying to balance it, didn't work well and a lot of 
weight once it got moving ( I had to move it out of one bay, onto drive 
and into other bay).

-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533

[email-masked]