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Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 11:57:46 -0600
From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
Any suggestions as to projects I should try.

The only thing I have planned right now is a fuel pump bracket to better
fit the aftermarket pump in my Healey.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  3 11:18:50 2015
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Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2015 10:23:17 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>,  Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CALiczDMbzSwC27SifOkRGDDfoRb0+QzoABjpVGCn_LVKKjvPbw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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What kind of class is it, and what is your skill level?

If you have low or zero experience, I would initially focus on just 
learning the basics of gas, stick and wire feed welding, and then, if 
they offer it, maybe try tig.  Learn the equipment, types and positions 
of welds, metal preparation, types of rod, and so on. Relax, take your 
time and take advantage of the experience of your instructor and the 
other students.  Welding and figuring out how to do projects can be a 
lot of fun.

If you already have, or once you get some basic experience, your 
projects are pretty much going to be dictated by what you need, but your 
fuel pump bracket for the Healy sounds like a good start. Build a full 
size cardboard mock up to figure out all the locations and joints, then 
cut it out and build it.

Welding projects are something we struggle with in my Ag Mechanics 
classes.  Years ago when a lot of the students came from farms or lived 
on acreage, there was always something that needed to be welded or 
fabricated.  Gates, trailers, hitches, farm or ag equipment, car and 
truck stuff.  Now most of the kids live in town or in apartments and 
most of them don't have a clue about what to make as a welding project.  
Building a deer feeder, a trailer dolly, engine lift or repairing a box 
blade is a foreign to them as building a space shuttle.

On 1/3/2015 9:57 AM, Patton Dickson wrote:
> I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
> Any suggestions as to projects I should try.
>
> The only thing I have planned right now is a fuel pump bracket to better
> fit the aftermarket pump in my Healey.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 12:52:32 -0600
References: <CALiczDMbzSwC27SifOkRGDDfoRb0+QzoABjpVGCn_LVKKjvPbw@mail.gmail.com>
To: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I took a similar class at my local community college about 10 years ago. We
didn't do a class project, but I was only auditing the class and skipped the
TIg section at the end and did my own project instead. This was the
instructor's recommendation, figuring I was unlikely to be buying my own TIg
welder. That may have been a mistake, since Tig prices have since come down,
but with his help I made a custom tow bar for my Sunbeam Alpine.  That is a
nice thing to have, but with hindsight I might have been better off using the
time to practice sheet metal welding. The class focused 100% on work with
thicker steel and we never worked with sheet metal.  Working on it with the
instructor probably would have been a good idea.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2015, at 11:57 AM, Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
> Any suggestions as to projects I should try.
>
> The only thing I have planned right now is a fuel pump bracket to better
> fit the aftermarket pump in my Healey.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2015 12:54:35 -0600
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CALiczDMbzSwC27SifOkRGDDfoRb0+QzoABjpVGCn_LVKKjvPbw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Make a small patio table using square or rectangular tubing for the 
legs, and angle for the perimeter of the top.  Cut a piece of hardiboard 
for the top, and then you and your wife/friend/daughter can make a 
mosaic tile top for it.  Don't forget to cut and weld small pieces to 
fill in the bottom ends of the legs, so they don't sink into the dirt or 
dig into the deck.  Grind all the welds very smooth.  Spray paint it 
with the cool textured or hammered Rustoleum, or something else I like 
is bed liner paint.

This is good a good practice project, as it requires you to figure out 
how to use the right angle magnet or clamp, how to design the way the 
legs and angle meet, and how to weld tube.  Every patio or porch needs a 
plant stand or small table, and best of all, it makes this new activity 
look like it might add to the household.  And the womens luv mosaic 
crafting...

I have made a bunch of these, sold a few, and have morphed them into end 
tables using stainless, as well as stand up planters so my mother 
doesn't have to bend down to plant her flowers.  I have even given them 
as crafting gifts, with the thinset, grout, and table as a kit, leaving 
the recipient to design and buy the mosaic tile art. One friend ended up 
using broken porcelain like old plates that she got from the Goodwill to 
make a really beautiful ocean scene with sand, blue waves, and clouds in 
the sky.

My local community college welding class started with oxy/acetylene, 
then went to stick.  The second semester was where we got to MIG and 
TIG.  I would have preferred to have completely skipped the stick 
welding, as I have no interest there, but I have since purchased a MIG 
and two TIG welders.  Good luck!!!



On 1/3/2015 11:57 AM, Patton Dickson wrote:
> I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
> Any suggestions as to projects I should try.
>
> The only thing I have planned right now is a fuel pump bracket to better
> fit the aftermarket pump in my Healey.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild@att.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  3 12:33:43 2015
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 13:37:42 -0600
References: <CALiczDMbzSwC27SifOkRGDDfoRb0+QzoABjpVGCn_LVKKjvPbw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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Make a cart for the welder you want to buy.

Or you could do something like this guys stuff:

http://www.recycleart.ch/index.php?st&idMehrueber=0

Have fun!

> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 11:57:46 -0600
> From: 57healey@gmail.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
>
> I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
> Any suggestions as to projects I should try.
>
> The only thing I have planned right now is a fuel pump bracket to better
> fit the aftermarket pump in my Healey.
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  3 17:48:44 2015
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 <BLU180-W380D15433B489CBC2051C5B45A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 19:52:40 -0500
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

Yeah, welding cart or table would be my suggestion as a nice first project.

Depends on if you have or are getting a welder for home.

Mark

On Sat, Jan 3, 2015 at 2:37 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> Make a cart for the welder you want to buy.
>
> Or you could do something like this guys stuff:
>
> http://www.recycleart.ch/index.php?st&idMehrueber=0
>
> Have fun!
>
> > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 11:57:46 -0600
> > From: 57healey@gmail.com
> > To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
> >
> > I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
> > Any suggestions as to projects I should try.
> >
> > The only thing I have planned right now is a fuel pump bracket to better
> > fit the aftermarket pump in my Healey.
> > _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Patton Dickson" <57healey@gmail.com>, "Shop-Talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CALiczDMbzSwC27SifOkRGDDfoRb0+QzoABjpVGCn_LVKKjvPbw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2015 21:06:49 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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>I am finally signed up for a welding class at a local Community College.
> Any suggestions as to projects I should try.

What are your needs for the future? Most of the students are likely to be 
hoping for employment whereas as a hobbyist your needs may be different. As 
others have stated, they tend to use 1/8" - 1/4" thick steel in these 
classes. If you're wanting to learn to weld auto body steel then you may 
need to speak up and perhaps bring some sample pieces for 
instruction/practice.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  4 17:01:46 2015
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?shop-talk_list?= <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2015 23:48:11 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?q?Home_Security?=
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With all this new fangled modern technology I figure there has to be something out there that can be self installed in the house and shop that if I get broken into or there is a fire it will notify me via my cell phone and I could then log in and look at things through a camera to see what's going on.  That's something that would notify me automatically, not going through a service paying a monthly fee.  What you think? Is it there yet?


Marty
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  4 17:19:05 2015
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Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2015 16:23:02 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>,  shop-talk list
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU402-EAS76EB24C68D0925F6E6DD7BA580@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Home Security
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Marty - I was looking at http://simplisafe.com/ as an inexpensive 
option.  In your case, it doesn't have a camera option available, so you 
would need two systems if you want video recording as well.

See more at 
http://www.clarkhoward.com/news/clark-howard/homes-real-estate/buying-diy-alarm-system-will-save-you-money/njcS9/ 
and be sure to see the comments as well.

One of the commenters said "I bought a DLink camera for a little under 
$30. It sends alerts to my phone whenever motion is detected in my 
house. and I can then look at the video going on in my house and capture 
pictures. All this for just the cost of the camera." Maybe someone here 
has experience with this type of thing.

Brian


On 1/4/2015 3:48 PM, marty wrote:
> With all this new fangled modern technology I figure there has to be something out there that can be self installed in the house and shop that if I get broken into or there is a fire it will notify me via my cell phone and I could then log in and look at things through a camera to see what's going on.  That's something that would notify me automatically, not going through a service paying a monthly fee.  What you think? Is it there yet?
>
>
> Marty
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  4 17:20:10 2015
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References: <BLU402-EAS76EB24C68D0925F6E6DD7BA580@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2015 19:24:13 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk list <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Home Security
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Look into SimpliCam or DropCam.  I think they do what you're hoping for.
You only pay the monthly fee if you also want cloud storage of the video.
With SimpliCam, you get facial detection with the subscription (Which means
it will tell you the difference between something and someone moving).  I
don't have anything yet, but I am considering both of these options for our
home and both garages.

-Paul

On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 6:48 PM, marty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:

> With all this new fangled modern technology I figure there has to be
> something out there that can be self installed in the house and shop that
> if I get broken into or there is a fire it will notify me via my cell phone
> and I could then log in and look at things through a camera to see what's
> going on.  That's something that would notify me automatically, not going
> through a service paying a monthly fee.  What you think? Is it there yet?
>
>
> Marty
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2015 20:58:45 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  4 20:11:32 2015
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Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2015 22:15:34 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to handle my
Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.

Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after all!)

I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold trays
but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish the
same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
specific distance apart.

Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you like
them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
platforms this coming weekend.

Thanks,

Brad
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 06:07:23 2015
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From: Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 08:10:13 -0500
References: <CADm3DLGc1M5snbydp3COnVYWeJuFs1A7fMqDMROctBLvkfwTmw@mail.gmail.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Brad
I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work well.
They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.

Phil Nase
Applebachsville, PA
http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/

> On Jan 4, 2015, at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
> chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
> particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to handle my
> Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>
> Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
> the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
> above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after all!)
>
> I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold trays
> but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
> probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish the
> same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
> specific distance apart.
>
> Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you like
> them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
> platforms this coming weekend.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases@verizon.net
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References: <CADm3DLGc1M5snbydp3COnVYWeJuFs1A7fMqDMROctBLvkfwTmw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 08:23:26 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Brad,

On Saturday, we reassembled my four post hydraulic over cable lift (Direct
Lift Pro Park) because we moved to a new home.  Mine came with the trays,
but since none of the cars I've ever stored up there have leaked anything
I've never even taken them out of the box they came in.  I think that the
important thing about the trays is that they are "trays" and not "sheets."
 So if something does leak onto them they would collect it instead of it
just finding an edge and dripping down somewhere else.

If all you want are leak trays and you are building them, then what I'd do
is make them wide enough to span your lift platforms.  Then you don't need
any sort of rail.  Your car tires likely don't end up at the inside edges
of the platforms, so you should still be able to park on them.  I wouldn't
build them out of plywood or anything else absorbent and I'd make sure that
they sit on the platforms or rails, but then drop down in-between to form a
place to collect fluids.

Good Luck,

-Paul

On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
> chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
> particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to handle my
> Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>
> Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
> the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
> above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after all!)
>
> I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold trays
> but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
> probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish the
> same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
> specific distance apart.
>
> Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you like
> them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
> platforms this coming weekend.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 06:57:09 2015
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 <D972D971-C0B0-4575-A647-65A0B18E9CFD@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:01:09 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I hadn't realized those trays are plastic and not sheet metal.  How wide
are the trays, and do you often have to adjust the width of the platforms
for different vehicles?

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:10 AM, Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net> wrote:

> Brad
> I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work well.
> They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.
>
> Phil Nase
> Applebachsville, PA
> http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/
>
> > On Jan 4, 2015, at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
> > chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
> > particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to handle
> my
> > Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
> >
> > Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
> > the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
> > above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after
> all!)
> >
> > I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold trays
> > but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
> > probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish the
> > same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
> > specific distance apart.
> >
> > Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
> like
> > them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
> > platforms this coming weekend.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brad
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases@verizon.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 07:07:46 2015
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 <CAOEriikfR4O+ADkpRwoJ3kX7m=5R7p=H7hxM68D5vsNcT8AFKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:05:16 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul,

You've got a good point about not using something flat and/or absorbent.
I'd rather not add the attachment rails if I don't have to so laying them
on top of the platforms is probably my best option.  I think I'll check
with an HVAC company and see if they can make some trays for me out sheet
metal.  Having them add the diagonal creasing would probably be a good idea
as well in helping fluids to puddle in the middle.

Thanks!

Brad


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:23 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Brad,
>
> On Saturday, we reassembled my four post hydraulic over cable lift (Direct
> Lift Pro Park) because we moved to a new home.  Mine came with the trays,
> but since none of the cars I've ever stored up there have leaked anything
> I've never even taken them out of the box they came in.  I think that the
> important thing about the trays is that they are "trays" and not "sheets."
>  So if something does leak onto them they would collect it instead of it
> just finding an edge and dripping down somewhere else.
>
> If all you want are leak trays and you are building them, then what I'd do
> is make them wide enough to span your lift platforms.  Then you don't need
> any sort of rail.  Your car tires likely don't end up at the inside edges
> of the platforms, so you should still be able to park on them.  I wouldn't
> build them out of plywood or anything else absorbent and I'd make sure that
> they sit on the platforms or rails, but then drop down in-between to form a
> place to collect fluids.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> -Paul
>
> On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
>> chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
>> particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to handle
>> my
>> Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>>
>> Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
>> the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
>> above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after all!)
>>
>> I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold trays
>> but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
>> probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish the
>> same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
>> specific distance apart.
>>
>> Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
>> like
>> them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
>> platforms this coming weekend.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brad
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 07:27:25 2015
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 14:30:46 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 I do like the idea of having at least one heavy duty sliding cross member
that I use with my 4 poster that I can put a bottle jack on and lift the car
with on the lift.On the other hand, I don't have full spanning trays.  This
discussion has me thinking.  The idea of flat actually appeals to me - I am
not anticipating gallons of oil or coolant or fuel to come raining down.  I am
looking to optimize light weight and ease of storage.  Flat "slats" maybe 2-3
feet wide that would span the platforms up to as wide as I use them (for
truck) that would stack on top of each other when not deployed is what I am
considering.  I have rolls of oil absorbant matting that I would lay on top of
the slats to prevent dripping down as that is all I would normally be battling
is drips.  I might have to have a couple of shorter ones that would fit
between tiers on the skinniest car. Matt

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:05:16 -0500

Paul,

You've got a good point about not using something flat and/or absorbent.


____________________________________________________________
The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar &#40;Don&#39;t Eat
This!&#41;
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54aaa04077bf3204062best04vuc
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 07:38:38 2015
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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:41:42 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, platforms are the long beams that you park the vehicle on.

I hadn't realized the platforms were not adjustable on the newer lifts.  My
platforms can be adjusted out to almost 9' outside edge to outside edge and
can also be moved together to where they touch each other.  That's why I've
struggled with what to do about leakage trays.


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:13 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> I assume by "platforms," you're referring to are the long beams that you
> are actually driving on?  If so, those are a fixed width on every four post
> lift I've ever seen.  If I put something as wide as my heavy-duty pickup on
> the lift the tires are closer to the outside and if I put a narrow roadster
> on they're closer to the inside, but not really by much.
>
> -Paul
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:01 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I hadn't realized those trays are plastic and not sheet metal.  How wide
>> are the trays, and do you often have to adjust the width of the platforms
>> for different vehicles?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brad
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:10 AM, Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Brad
>> > I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work
>> well.
>> > They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.
>> >
>> > Phil Nase
>> > Applebachsville, PA
>> > http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/
>> >
>> > > On Jan 4, 2015, at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder
>> &
>> > > chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years.
>> This
>> > > particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to
>> handle
>> > my
>> > > Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>> > >
>> > > Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit
>> between
>> > > the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing
>> one
>> > > above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after
>> > all!)
>> > >
>> > > I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold
>> trays
>> > > but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I
>> could
>> > > probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish
>> the
>> > > same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
>> > > specific distance apart.
>> > >
>> > > Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
>> > like
>> > > them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting
>> the
>> > > platforms this coming weekend.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > >
>> > > Brad
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > >
>> > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases@verizon.net
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:42:22 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's thinking outside the box :)

I don't know why I was thinking full coverage under a vehicle, it only
needs to be in the area where the drips come from.  Of course on a Triumph
that's leaking and being driven the leaks could be coming from anywhere!

I'll have to keep my eyes open for alternatives to plastic or metal trays.

Thanks,

Brad

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:13 AM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> I assume by "platforms," you're referring to are the long beams that you
> are actually driving on?  If so, those are a fixed width on every four post
> lift I've ever seen.  If I put something as wide as my heavy-duty pickup on
> the lift the tires are closer to the outside and if I put a narrow roadster
> on they're closer to the inside, but not really by much.
>
> -Paul
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:01 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I hadn't realized those trays are plastic and not sheet metal.  How wide
>> are the trays, and do you often have to adjust the width of the platforms
>> for different vehicles?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brad
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:10 AM, Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> > Brad
>> > I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work
>> well.
>> > They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.
>> >
>> > Phil Nase
>> > Applebachsville, PA
>> > http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/
>> >
>> > > On Jan 4, 2015, at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder
>> &
>> > > chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years.
>> This
>> > > particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to
>> handle
>> > my
>> > > Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>> > >
>> > > Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit
>> between
>> > > the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing
>> one
>> > > above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after
>> > all!)
>> > >
>> > > I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold
>> trays
>> > > but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I
>> could
>> > > probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish
>> the
>> > > same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
>> > > specific distance apart.
>> > >
>> > > Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
>> > like
>> > > them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting
>> the
>> > > platforms this coming weekend.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > >
>> > > Brad
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > >
>> > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases@verizon.net
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:48:32 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Matt,

I fabricated a heavy duty angle iron platform that sits down between the
platforms that allows me to use a bottle jack.  I made it mainly for use on
my Triumphs so it's too narrow to use with my F250.  90% of my work is on
the Triumphs so I felt that was good enough for me.  I also have a couple
of long 2"x4" channels that I use to span the platforms that I use to set
jack stands on.  They work well for when I need to remove a wheel to work
on suspension or brakes.

Brad


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:30 AM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

>  I do like the idea of having at least one heavy duty sliding cross member
> that I use with my 4 poster that I can put a bottle jack on and lift the
> car
> with on the lift.On the other hand, I don't have full spanning trays.  This
> discussion has me thinking.  The idea of flat actually appeals to me - I am
> not anticipating gallons of oil or coolant or fuel to come raining down.
> I am
> looking to optimize light weight and ease of storage.  Flat "slats" maybe
> 2-3
> feet wide that would span the platforms up to as wide as I use them (for
> truck) that would stack on top of each other when not deployed is what I am
> considering.  I have rolls of oil absorbant matting that I would lay on
> top of
> the slats to prevent dripping down as that is all I would normally be
> battling
> is drips.  I might have to have a couple of shorter ones that would fit
> between tiers on the skinniest car. Matt
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
> To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
> Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
> Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:05:16 -0500
>
> Paul,
>
> You've got a good point about not using something flat and/or absorbent.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
> Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar &#40;Don&#39;t Eat
> This!&#41;
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54aaa04077bf3204062best04vuc
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bkahler1@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 09:53:48 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Phil,

It sounds like your platforms are in a fixed position.  Since my platforms
go from 0" gap to about 80"  gap it looks like something that lays on top
of the platforms would be my best approach.  My TR4 is a real leaker right
now so finding a reasonable solution is high on my list!

Thanks,

Brad


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:46 AM, Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net> wrote:

> Hey Brad,
> I have an AC Lift. The inner sides have a lip that the trays hang upon.
> I'll have to measure them to be sure of the width, close to 3 feet I would
> estimate. I have a Bugeye Sprite on the lift usually and it's a leaker. The
> Sprite just fits with a few inches to spare on the inner sides of the lift.
>
> There is also a heavy steel pan on mine that allows a jack to be used. I
> have 3 plastic pans that I can easily position under the diff, trans and
> engine where I need them.
>
> Phil Nase
> Applebachsville, PA
> http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/
>
> On Jan 5, 2015, at 9:01 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I hadn't realized those trays are plastic and not sheet metal.  How wide
> are the trays, and do you often have to adjust the width of the platforms
> for different vehicles?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:10 AM, Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Brad
>> I have plastic trays I use with my lift they're lightweight and work
>> well. They won't absorb oil or coolant and can be cleaned.
>>
>> Phil Nase
>> Applebachsville, PA
>> http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/
>>
>> > On Jan 4, 2015, at 10:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of resurrecting my older 4-post hydraulic cylinder &
>> > chain car lift that I sadley let sit outside for a number of years. This
>> > particular lift is rated at 9,000 lbs and is adjustible enough to
>> handle my
>> > Triumph TRs and F250 Super Duty diesel pickup.
>> >
>> > Most of the modern lifts always seem to come with trays that fit between
>> > the platforms so you can park a vehicle under the lift while storing one
>> > above without leaking oil on the car below (these are Triumphs after
>> all!)
>> >
>> > I've been debating adding attachment rails to the platforms to hold
>> trays
>> > but I just don't know if its worth the trouble and expense when I could
>> > probably just as easily use 1/4" or so plywood sections to accomplish
>> the
>> > same thing. Also these trays would only work when the platforms are a
>> > specific distance apart.
>> >
>> > Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
>> like
>> > them? I need to make a decision soon as I will probably be painting the
>> > platforms this coming weekend.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Brad
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases@verizon.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 10:11:51 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow, I hope my TR4 doesn't leak that bad that I need a drain hose!

Not sure about this sort of approach but that brings to mind the thought of
adding rails to my platforms and then using sheet plastic (4 or 6 mil) and
suspending it between the platforms.  That means the "tray' would be
disposable and I could then cut the plastic based on where my platforms
are.  Something to think about....

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:48 AM, John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:

> Maybe not the _best_ solution, but the facilities guys where I work have
> an interesting solution to this type of issue.  They have heavy duty tarps
> that they stretch over areas where the roof leaks.  Then they attach a hose
> the the center of the tarp and run it to a floor drain (if one is handy) or
> a bucket.  It is definitely adjustable and easy to store, but maybe not the
> best for long term usage.
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:42 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> That's thinking outside the box :)
>>
>> I don't know why I was thinking full coverage under a vehicle, it only
>> needs to be in the area where the drips come from.  Of course on a Triumph
>> that's leaking and being driven the leaks could be coming from anywhere!
>>
>> I'll have to keep my eyes open for alternatives to plastic or metal trays.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brad
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 13:09:26 -0600
From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I am going from a zero base and will be
sure to let the instructor know that I need to learn sheet metal, but I am
interested in some of the larger steel projects.  I will make the bracket,
and probably a cart as well.

I have a Weld-Pak 100, but already know that it is too weak to do much,
will upgrade after I have a little time under my belt.

Here is the class description

An overview of the basic welding processes, including oxy-fuel welding and
cutting, shielded metal arc (SMAW), gas metal arc (GMAW), and gas tungsten
arc welding (GTAW). Set up machines and complete welds and cutting
operations involving SMAW, OXY-FUEL, GMAW, GTAW, and resistance spot
welding; practice basic shop safety; identify types of electrodes used in
welding processes; define various welding and cutting standards; and
demonstrate proper joint preparation techniques.

I'm really looking froward to this
Patton



-- 
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 14:40:41 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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If you can get it to use gas, that machine is probably fine for auto sheet
metal,
and stuff up to 3/16" or so.

Doug


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have a Weld-Pak 100, but already know that it is too weak to do much,
> will upgrade after I have a little time under my belt.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 13:44:08 -0600
From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It can use gas, I just need ot buy the conversion kit

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Weld-Pak-100-Wire-Feed-Welder-MIG-Conversion-Kit-K610-1/100341065

This guys has a video telling the aftermarket parts to buy to put the kit
together at nearly half the price

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjPLTpl04j0

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 1:40 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> If you can get it to use gas, that machine is probably fine for auto sheet
> metal,
> and stuff up to 3/16" or so.
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a Weld-Pak 100, but already know that it is too weak to do much,
>> will upgrade after I have a little time under my belt.
>>
>
>
>


-- 
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 14:28:25 2015
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 17:34:59 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/05/2015 16:16:08, Serialize complete at
 01/05/2015 16:16:08
Subject: [Shop-talk] oil testers  (lubricheck)
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Does anyone have any experience with this oil tester?

http://www.lubricheck.com/product-lubricheck-oil-tester.html

For $50, it seems priced right.  Amazon has some reviews on it, but only 
one verified purchased review (it was good.)

Anyone have one?  Is it worth buying?

Thanks in advance.


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'Patton Dickson'" <57healey@gmail.com>, "'Shop-Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CALiczDP8kHTiCvtK-G5DzA=L6Fd=+NugnEU8-+Zr8uMWBUjOtg@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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Sorry I am late chiming in but building a cart is a waste of time when you
can buy one from Horrible Freight for about $50.  The are acceptably good.

Learning to weld is smart as it is a useful and barter-able skill.  I am the
neighborhood welder.

Also, Mr. 57 Healey, this is a great skill for tasks on my 1960 TR3 and my
1980 TR8.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Patton Dickson
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2015 11:09 AM
To: Shop-Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I am going from a zero base and will be
sure to let the instructor know that I need to learn sheet metal, but I am
interested in some of the larger steel projects.  I will make the bracket,
and probably a cart as well.

I have a Weld-Pak 100, but already know that it is too weak to do much,
will upgrade after I have a little time under my belt.

Here is the class description

An overview of the basic welding processes, including oxy-fuel welding and
cutting, shielded metal arc (SMAW), gas metal arc (GMAW), and gas tungsten
arc welding (GTAW). Set up machines and complete welds and cutting
operations involving SMAW, OXY-FUEL, GMAW, GTAW, and resistance spot
welding; practice basic shop safety; identify types of electrodes used in
welding processes; define various welding and cutting standards; and
demonstrate proper joint preparation techniques.

I'm really looking froward to this
Patton



-- 
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 17:42:38 2015
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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 16:37:30 -0800
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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I disagree...and agree.

  Yes, you can buy a cart for less than what you will spend on the steel 
and time but you will learn how to weld while building that cart.  I 
have always from my first welder on, built a cart for it, sometimes I 
spent double on steel than what I could have bought at Harbor Fright, 
and at least on the first one the welds were better at Harbor Fright but 
I built it to my specs and learned a lot.

     mike

On 1/5/2015 4:33 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> Sorry I am late chiming in but building a cart is a waste of time when you
> can buy one from Horrible Freight for about $50.  The are acceptably good.
>
> Learning to weld is smart as it is a useful and barter-able skill.  I am the
> neighborhood welder.
>
> Also, Mr. 57 Healey, this is a great skill for tasks on my 1960 TR3 and my
> 1980 TR8.
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Patton Dickson
> Sent: Monday, January 05, 2015 11:09 AM
> To: Shop-Talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
>
> Thanks for all of the suggestions, I am going from a zero base and will be
> sure to let the instructor know that I need to learn sheet metal, but I am
> interested in some of the larger steel projects.  I will make the bracket,
> and probably a cart as well.
>
> I have a Weld-Pak 100, but already know that it is too weak to do much,
> will upgrade after I have a little time under my belt.
>
> Here is the class description
>
> An overview of the basic welding processes, including oxy-fuel welding and
> cutting, shielded metal arc (SMAW), gas metal arc (GMAW), and gas tungsten
> arc welding (GTAW). Set up machines and complete welds and cutting
> operations involving SMAW, OXY-FUEL, GMAW, GTAW, and resistance spot
> welding; practice basic shop safety; identify types of electrodes used in
> welding processes; define various welding and cutting standards; and
> demonstrate proper joint preparation techniques.
>
> I'm really looking froward to this
> Patton
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 17:57:42 2015
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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Mike, I understand completely.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Rambour
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2015 4:38 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions

I disagree...and agree.

  Yes, you can buy a cart for less than what you will spend on the steel 
and time but you will learn how to weld while building that cart.  I 
have always from my first welder on, built a cart for it, sometimes I 
spent double on steel than what I could have bought at Harbor Fright, 
and at least on the first one the welds were better at Harbor Fright but 
I built it to my specs and learned a lot.

     mike

On 1/5/2015 4:33 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> Sorry I am late chiming in but building a cart is a waste of time when you
> can buy one from Horrible Freight for about $50.  The are acceptably good.
>
> Learning to weld is smart as it is a useful and barter-able skill.  I am
the
> neighborhood welder.
>
> Also, Mr. 57 Healey, this is a great skill for tasks on my 1960 TR3 and my
> 1980 TR8.
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Patton Dickson
> Sent: Monday, January 05, 2015 11:09 AM
> To: Shop-Talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
>
> Thanks for all of the suggestions, I am going from a zero base and will be
> sure to let the instructor know that I need to learn sheet metal, but I am
> interested in some of the larger steel projects.  I will make the bracket,
> and probably a cart as well.
>
> I have a Weld-Pak 100, but already know that it is too weak to do much,
> will upgrade after I have a little time under my belt.
>
> Here is the class description
>
> An overview of the basic welding processes, including oxy-fuel welding and
> cutting, shielded metal arc (SMAW), gas metal arc (GMAW), and gas tungsten
> arc welding (GTAW). Set up machines and complete welds and cutting
> operations involving SMAW, OXY-FUEL, GMAW, GTAW, and resistance spot
> welding; practice basic shop safety; identify types of electrodes used in
> welding processes; define various welding and cutting standards; and
> demonstrate proper joint preparation techniques.
>
> I'm really looking froward to this
> Patton
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 18:12:49 2015
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
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This is just a story I am sure I've told before many times, but the experience has stuck with me.

Many years ago when I was at the U of U a couple of the profs and myself enrolled in an evening
auto body repair course at a local high school. First night's class was in a classroom and consisted
of covering shop safety, outline of the course, blah blah blah.

The old fellow who was teaching sat up there and read from notes in such a dull monotone for what
seemed like hours and hours.  The profs and I kind of looked at each other with a "what have we done?"
look. Mercifully the lecture finally concluded, and he asked "Any questions?"

My friend Gary had brought in a fender from his Model A truck project. He asked the instructor to
take a look.

I have never in my life seen a human being transformed in such a short time. When the "boring old fart"
got his hands on that piece of metal he was a completely different person. Excited and animated, he pointed
out where previous work on the metal had work hardened this area, resulting in some incipient cracks at
the edge, he pointed out some warpage over here and so on. I almost expected him to provide the mileage of
the truck and the original paint color codes.  

Never in my life will I be able to look at a piece of metal with that master's wisdom and experience.
It was amazing.

mjb.
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References: <CADm3DLGc1M5snbydp3COnVYWeJuFs1A7fMqDMROctBLvkfwTmw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 20:57:19 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
> like them?

Since a four post lift excels at storage, it seems like drip trays are a
good idea!

I have a Direct Lift ProPark 9 - I bought that model because it has ramps a
few inches wider than other models. This allows it to fit the narrow track
of my smaller cars (MGA, Alfa Romeo) and also my F250 pick-up.

> My platforms can be adjusted out to almost 9' outside edge to outside edge
> and can also be moved together to where they touch each other.  That's why
> I've struggled with what to do about leakage trays.

I thought about a lift with a moveable ramp but that makes both drip trays &
a jacking bridge problematic.

For your lift with moveable ramps, how about a few spring tension shower
curtain poles? They could be fairly easily adjusted for the varying ramp
widths and could then support a few light weight drip trays.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 19:07:37 -0800
From: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a similar experience in college.  The instructor for the Strength 
of Materials class read the textbook to the class in a slow monotone.  
Students were keeping track of things like "ah", "er", and all.  When we 
got in the lab and started testing various materials, he was a wealth of 
information.  Offered all sorts of useful stuff; after class he drove 
off in his Porsche 356.

Mike
------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 1/5/2015 5:16 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> This is just a story I am sure I've told before many times, but the 
> experience has stuck with me.
>
> Many years ago when I was at the U of U a couple of the profs and 
> myself enrolled in an evening
> auto body repair course at a local high school. First night's class 
> was in a classroom and consisted
> of covering shop safety, outline of the course, blah blah blah.
>
> The old fellow who was teaching sat up there and read from notes in 
> such a dull monotone for what
> seemed like hours and hours.  The profs and I kind of looked at each 
> other with a "what have we done?"
> look. Mercifully the lecture finally concluded, and he asked "Any 
> questions?"
>
> My friend Gary had brought in a fender from his Model A truck project. 
> He asked the instructor to
> take a look.
>
> I have never in my life seen a human being transformed in such a short 
> time. When the "boring old fart"
> got his hands on that piece of metal he was a completely different 
> person. Excited and animated, he pointed
> out where previous work on the metal had work hardened this area, 
> resulting in some incipient cracks at
> the edge, he pointed out some warpage over here and so on. I almost 
> expected him to provide the mileage of
> the truck and the original paint color codes.
> Never in my life will I be able to look at a piece of metal with that 
> master's wisdom and experience.
> It was amazing.
>
> mjb.
> ______________________ 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 21:28:43 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Cc: shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding Class Project Suggestions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My instructor was super certified and even instructed welders from the Glen
Rose nuke sight.  One day I was carping about my school stick welder acting
different from the one in the next booth.    He asked my heat range; set
the amps at 1/2 of my range and ran a great bead . . .then he set it at
TWICE my amps and ran another great bead.  Merely adjusting arc length and
travel speed!  I am still in awe of his skill.
Tony

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 9:07 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> I had a similar experience in college.  The instructor for the Strength
> of Materials class read the textbook to the class in a slow monotone.
> Students were keeping track of things like "ah", "er", and all.  When we
> got in the lab and started testing various materials, he was a wealth of
> information.  Offered all sorts of useful stuff; after class he drove
> off in his Porsche 356.
>
> Mike
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> On 1/5/2015 5:16 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > This is just a story I am sure I've told before many times, but the
> > experience has stuck with me.
> >
> > Many years ago when I was at the U of U a couple of the profs and
> > myself enrolled in an evening
> > auto body repair course at a local high school. First night's class
> > was in a classroom and consisted
> > of covering shop safety, outline of the course, blah blah blah.
> >
> > The old fellow who was teaching sat up there and read from notes in
> > such a dull monotone for what
> > seemed like hours and hours.  The profs and I kind of looked at each
> > other with a "what have we done?"
> > look. Mercifully the lecture finally concluded, and he asked "Any
> > questions?"
> >
> > My friend Gary had brought in a fender from his Model A truck project.
> > He asked the instructor to
> > take a look.
> >
> > I have never in my life seen a human being transformed in such a short
> > time. When the "boring old fart"
> > got his hands on that piece of metal he was a completely different
> > person. Excited and animated, he pointed
> > out where previous work on the metal had work hardened this area,
> > resulting in some incipient cracks at
> > the edge, he pointed out some warpage over here and so on. I almost
> > expected him to provide the mileage of
> > the truck and the original paint color codes.
> > Never in my life will I be able to look at a piece of metal with that
> > master's wisdom and experience.
> > It was amazing.
> >
> > mjb.
> > ______________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 21:14:11 2015
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] More welding
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwv_XjWp1KA


mjb.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  5 22:17:05 2015
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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 21:20:50 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>,  Shop Talk List
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References: <CADm3DLGc1M5snbydp3COnVYWeJuFs1A7fMqDMROctBLvkfwTmw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How about some 6mil plastic sheeting and a frame of PVC pipe or 
conduit?  Two pipes will run the length of the vehicle, resting on the 
platform inside the tires, and two shorter lengths can be attached to 
T's as spreaders.  Change the length of the spreaders based on vehicle 
width.  Thinking something like this (imagine there is no line spacing):

|_|
|_|
| |

You could get fancy and put a couple hooks on the inside of the 
platforms and set the pipe in them.

You could make the plastic a little wider at one end so there is slope 
for any drippings to drain off.  When not in use, just roll it up.

Should you bump it while working on one of the cars, no danger of it 
scratching the bottom car with PVC either.

Brian, wishing a lift of any sort was a possibility.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  6 03:16:41 2015
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Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2015 10:18:26 +0000
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] More welding
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On 06/01/2015 04:15, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwv_XjWp1KA
>
>

That is brilliant. Blurs the line between ingenuity and genius.

Brightened up a grey Manchester morning and even encouraged me to drop a 
few dollars in the Shoptalk coffers.

Thanks.

Nick Brearley
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  6 07:33:21 2015
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2015 09:28:38 -0500
References: <54AB6172.3020308@bradakis.com>,<54ABB672.50109@landform.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] More welding
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"Honey, where's my bowling ball, I have a game tonight"
"Uhhhh."
Nice thing is those old rotors and the ball add some nice weight to it as
well, less moving around.  I don't know if that design could be any more
elegant.

> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2015 10:18:26 +0000
> From: nick@landform.co.uk
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] More welding
>
> On 06/01/2015 04:15, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwv_XjWp1KA
> >
> >
>
> That is brilliant. Blurs the line between ingenuity and genius.
>
> Brightened up a grey Manchester morning and even encouraged me to drop a
> few dollars in the Shoptalk coffers.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nick Brearley
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  7 16:18:50 2015
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2015 17:18:05 -0600
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To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] replacement windows
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Nogueira

> On Jan 7, 2015, at 5:14 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com> wrote:
>
> We had all our windows replaced by Champion vinyl windows. They included  a
life time warranty which included breakage. After they left and I got to
looking at the windows and realized how important that warranty was, you can't
replace the glass in the sash, the whole sash has to be replaced and since the
windows are made to order that requires several weeks to replace a broken
window.
> We had a problem after two years with moisture between the panes on one
window which was replace. We now ( seven yrs )  have streaks  between the
panes on three others which I'm going to need to call in.
>
> Bob
>>
>>> On Mon, December 29, 2014 09:13, John Niolon wrote:
>>> need to replace some 20+ year old wooden windows in shop and house...
any
>>> recommendations or warnings about the manufacturers/installers...   I'm
tired
>>> of painting windows !!!
>>>
>>> john
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David Cole <dgcole01@bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2015 19:47:05 -0600
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Water heater leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all,

I've got an issue with my water heater.  50 gal electric.  Installed 2011 with
a 6 yr warranty.  I just bought the house 4 months ago.

It's in the basement bathroom.  I had noticed the floor wet around the unit
and thought I had a foundation leak issue.  Was happy when I just happened to
be in there when it puked a little water out the temp/pressure relief valve.
I removed it and there was a little corrosion in the valve and some white
substance similar to toothpaste ( lime?)

Replaced the valve under warranty.  Thank you US Waterheater!

I also turned the temp down from 130ish to the std 125 deg.  Wanted to make
sure there was not too much expansion.   Put a small bucket under the pipe
attached to the TPR valve.  The floor has dried up nicely even after heavy
rains so the foundation is good.

However, I'm still getting a little discharge from the TPR valve into the
bucket.  About a quart every 2-3 days.  We do use a lot of hot water with the
wife and 2 college age girls.  Have not checked the pressure but it doesn't
seem above normal.  Just good solid pressure.  The TPR valve is rated at 150
psi and/or 200 deg.

Ideas for a solution?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  7 19:04:30 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2015 21:07:52 -0500
References: <52F47A15-BA10-4B65-AD61-0051D6BE1DA3@bellsouth.net>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Jan 7, 2015, at 8:47 PM, David Cole wrote:

> Ideas for a solution?

Is there an expansion tank (Extrol, etc) in the system? Sounds like there's a
backflow preventer and the expanded hot water has no where to go except out
the T&P valve.

Also, look into raising that water temp a bit more:
"Warm, stagnant water provides ideal conditions for growth. At temperatures
between 200C-500C (680-1220F) the organism can multiply. Temperatures of
320C-400C (900-1050F) are ideal for growth. Rust (iron), scale, and the
presence of other microorganisms can also promote the growth of LDB. "
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52F47A15-BA10-4B65-AD61-0051D6BE1DA3@bellsouth.net>
 <50EBB776-0A8F-4732-9DE0-39D8F178CEA3@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2015 08:21:13 -0600
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Water heater leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim -
Is it possible that this came through with temperatures transposed to an
order of magnitude higher than you intended?

;-)


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Franklin
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater leak

Also, look into raising that water temp a bit more:
"Warm, stagnant water provides ideal conditions for growth. At temperatures
between 200C-500C (680-1220F) the organism can multiply. Temperatures of
320C-400C (900-1050F) are ideal for growth. Rust (iron), scale, and the
presence of other microorganisms can also promote the growth of LDB. "
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  8 07:43:43 2015
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2015 09:47:47 -0500
References: <52F47A15-BA10-4B65-AD61-0051D6BE1DA3@bellsouth.net>
 <50EBB776-0A8F-4732-9DE0-39D8F178CEA3@groupwbench.org>
 <005701d02b4e$5c405db0$14c11910$@Ameritech.net>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Water heater leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Whoa, dunno what happened there. Though on a day like today, a 500C shower
sounds nice :-)

jim

On Jan 8, 2015, at 9:21 AM, Karl Vacek wrote:

> Jim -
> Is it possible that this came through with temperatures transposed to an
> order of magnitude higher than you intended?
>
> ;-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Franklin
> Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater leak
>
> Also, look into raising that water temp a bit more:
> "Warm, stagnant water provides ideal conditions for growth. At temperatures
> between 200C-500C (680-1220F) the organism can multiply. Temperatures of
> 320C-400C (900-1050F) are ideal for growth. Rust (iron), scale, and the
> presence of other microorganisms can also promote the growth of LDB. "
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2015 14:46:39 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Water heater leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tough organisms...
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Franklin
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater leak

Also, look into raising that water temp a bit more:
"Warm, stagnant water provides ideal conditions for growth. At temperatures
between 200C-500C (680-1220F) the organism can multiply. Temperatures of
320C-400C (900-1050F) are ideal for growth.
____________________________________________________________
The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
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This!&#41;
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54ae987654f9518765e7est03vuc
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <52F47A15-BA10-4B65-AD61-0051D6BE1DA3@bellsouth.net>
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Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2015 10:21:43 -0600
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re: Water heater leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Because of the variances in the ways nonASCII characters can be displayed
in various systems, I always use the word "degrees" and wish everybody did.

On Thu, Jan 8, 2015 at 8:21 AM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:

> Jim -
> Is it possible that this came through with temperatures transposed to an
> order of magnitude higher than you intended?
>
> ;-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Franklin
> Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater leak
>
> Also, look into raising that water temp a bit more:
> "Warm, stagnant water provides ideal conditions for growth. At temperatures
> between 200C-500C (680-1220F) the organism can multiply. Temperatures of
> 320C-400C (900-1050F) are ideal for growth. Rust (iron), scale, and the
> presence of other microorganisms can also promote the growth of LDB. "
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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-- 
pethier@comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com
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From: sentenac.rw@gmail.com
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2015 10:53:13 -0800
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Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re:  Water heater leak
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On Thu, 8 Jan 2015 09:47:47 -0500, you wrote:
looks like the list can't process degree symbols and makes them zeros.
If Britain and the US are two countries divided by a common language,
the Internet is a whole bunch of countries divided by a whole bunch of
(sort of) common 'languages'.
-Roland

>Whoa, dunno what happened there. Though on a day like today, a 500C shower
>sounds nice :-)
>
>jim
>
>On Jan 8, 2015, at 9:21 AM, Karl Vacek wrote:
>
>> Jim -
>> Is it possible that this came through with temperatures transposed to an
>> order of magnitude higher than you intended?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  8 12:14:59 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'shop-talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2015 11:14:02 -0800
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> looks like the list can't process degree symbols and makes them zeros.

Yup.  The list server enforces "standard" 7 bit ASCII (aka US-ASCII), which includes a very limited subset of symbols.  Anything
else, it does its best to translate to 7 bit ASCII.  The degree symbol gets translated to a zero.

That may change soon, I believe our listmeister is experimenting with allowing HTML (including selection of character sets) on the
lists.  But it apparently hasn't happened for Shop Talk yet.

-- Randall  
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  9 12:17:29 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 14:08:55 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/09/2015 14:05:09, Serialize complete at
 01/09/2015 14:05:09
Subject: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yesterday, I towed and replaced my buddies starter on his 2007 Dodge Ram 
1500.

It has about 130K miles.  What struck me as odd was that he said this is 
his second starter on that truck.

I'm a high milage truck guy (my last truck had over 220K miles when I sold 
it and my current truck as 175K miles) and I've never replaced a starter.

My questions is, can he be doing something wrong that is killing his 
starters?  I haven't seen him over-crank his truck, but what normally 
causes the starters to fail?  (There was a core charge on the starter, so 
I couldn't tear into it to see what broken.)

Now, I garage keep all my vehicles and he never does, I would guess that 
could play into it.

But, is there anything I can tell him to help him not burn through them as 
quickly?

Thanks

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  9 12:28:30 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 14:13:50 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/09/2015 14:10:03, Serialize complete at
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, this is a little off-topic, but I'll be using it as a tool, so I guess 
that qualifies.

I'm looking to get a quad copter with a video camera to help me manage my 
wood farm and the surrounding areas.  I have lots of uses for something 
like this (also check the gutters of the shop, etc (so there shop 
content)).

I've been looking at these on Amazon and they don't give enough detail as 
to why one is better than the other.

(Note, I'm not looking at the little ones for under $100 bucks.  I've 
budgeted about $1000 for one, but can go higher if there is a good reason 
to.)

I don't need long 'flight times.'  I do want to be about to see the video 
as it's flying.  I would love to be able to take 'stills' as well in 
flight.

The camera needs to be able to point somewhat 'down.' (It seems most of 
these don't really look down much.)

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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On Jan 9, 2015, at 2:08 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> But, is there anything I can tell him to help him not burn through them as
> quickly?

The solenoid is part of the replacement right?

There could be low voltage causing it to overheat. Does it crank normally?
Might check/upgrade the cables, especially engine to body ground cable.

Could also be something serious like  mis-drilled starter holes, causing a
gear misalignment and extra load, or maybe the starter needs to be shimmed a
bit.  Do you know what the failure mode was?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  9 12:48:36 2015
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References: <OFFF2BE37C.AFC74D17-ON85257DC8.006A5030-85257DC8.006ABEF2@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 13:40:10 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

For that kind of cash, look at something like the IRIS+  (
http://www.adafruit.com/products/2199)
If you want to adjust the camera in flight, you need a gimbal mount.  If
you just want to set it to a fixed position a plain mount will do.
Since you want to see the video while flying, read carefully about the
radios.  Some (like the otherwise excellent dji
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1010830-REG/dji_cp_pt_0000011_quadcopter_with_gopro_mount.html)
use a radio frequency that is in the WIFI band and interferes with wireless
cameras like the GO PRO.

On Fri, Jan 9, 2015 at 1:13 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, this is a little off-topic, but I'll be using it as a tool, so I guess
> that qualifies.
>
> I'm looking to get a quad copter with a video camera to help me manage my
> wood farm and the surrounding areas.  I have lots of uses for something
> like this (also check the gutters of the shop, etc (so there shop
> content)).
>
> I've been looking at these on Amazon and they don't give enough detail as
> to why one is better than the other.
>
> (Note, I'm not looking at the little ones for under $100 bucks.  I've
> budgeted about $1000 for one, but can go higher if there is a good reason
> to.)
>
> I don't need long 'flight times.'  I do want to be about to see the video
> as it's flying.  I would love to be able to take 'stills' as well in
> flight.
>
> The camera needs to be able to point somewhat 'down.' (It seems most of
> these don't really look down much.)
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 14:51:57 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFFF2BE37C.AFC74D17-ON85257DC8.006A5030-85257DC8.006ABEF2@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, 9 Jan 2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Any ideas or suggestions?

    Not really...

<http://gizmodo.com/dads-with-drones-are-wreaking-havoc-this-christmas-1675107570>


--
  David Hillman
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 20:39:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: Tom & Marge FitzGibbon <fitzgibbon3@comcast.net>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OFFF2BE37C.AFC74D17-ON85257DC8.006A5030-85257DC8.006ABEF2@mail.megageek.com>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: Quad Copter with video cameras
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
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Eric, 

Sorry, I know nothing about these, but if you go to bhphotovideo.com and search "copter" you will see lots of listings many with reviews (I saw some with over 100 reviews). Since the place is really known as a camera and video store, most of the reviews should address the video aspects and give you a pretty good idea of the benefits. Prices seem to be all over the place, so you should find something in your price range. Just FYI, I don't know about prices for these, but I find most of the time these guys are pretty competitive with Amazon but once you see something you like I would compare prices. BTW, NFI but I've been a very satisfied customer for many years. 

Tom 

----- Original Message -----

From: eric@megageek.com 
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net 
Sent: Friday, January 9, 2015 2:13:50 PM 
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras 

OK, this is a little off-topic, but I'll be using it as a tool, so I guess 
that qualifies. 

I'm looking to get a quad copter with a video camera to help me manage my 
wood farm and the surrounding areas. I have lots of uses for something 
like this (also check the gutters of the shop, etc (so there shop 
content)). 

I've been looking at these on Amazon and they don't give enough detail as 
to why one is better than the other. 

(Note, I'm not looking at the little ones for under $100 bucks. I've 
budgeted about $1000 for one, but can go higher if there is a good reason 
to.) 

I don't need long 'flight times.' I do want to be about to see the video 
as it's flying. I would love to be able to take 'stills' as well in 
flight. 

The camera needs to be able to point somewhat 'down.' (It seems most of 
these don't really look down much.) 

Any ideas or suggestions? 

Thanks. 

Eric P 
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2015 16:00:28 -0500
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <OFC76741A5.C044F59F-ON85257DC8.006867B6-85257DC8.006A4B93@mail.megageek.com>
 <dvZE1p00o0NyJgq01vZFsU>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 02:28 PM 1/9/2015, you wrote:

 > The solenoid is part of the replacement right?

 >There could be low voltage causing it to overheat. Does it crank normally?
 >Might check/upgrade the cables, especially engine to body ground cable.

What I've found is the contacts burn and the piston can't pull in 
across both the
input and output contacts.

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/electrical/starting/art026.html

About 1/2 way done the article is a picture of a burned contact, and 
at the bottom
is a sketch of how and why that causes problems.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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 <A07A1D91-C71F-40F9-91FD-5575F775927E@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 16:08:22 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Excessive heat is a major cause of starter failure.  To limit warranty
we put a software feature in our engine controllers to limit the time
you can crank within a given time period.  This avoids overtemping the
starter.  Changing the exhaust or removing heat shields could also
raise the temps the starter sees.

Beyond heat, vibration can be an issue, too.  That's mostly a design
issue, but again if there's been any mods to the truck (engine mounts,
calibration changes, etc.) that could cause a higher vibration profile
at the starter.

Ben.....

On Fri, Jan 9, 2015 at 2:28 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> On Jan 9, 2015, at 2:08 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
>> But, is there anything I can tell him to help him not burn through them as
>> quickly?
>
> The solenoid is part of the replacement right?
>
> There could be low voltage causing it to overheat. Does it crank normally?
> Might check/upgrade the cables, especially engine to body ground cable.
>
> Could also be something serious like  mis-drilled starter holes, causing a
> gear misalignment and extra load, or maybe the starter needs to be shimmed a
> bit.  Do you know what the failure mode was?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2015 16:15:23 -0500
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 02:08 PM 1/9/2015, you wrote:

 >Yesterday, I towed and replaced my buddies starter on his 2007 Dodge Ram
 >1500.  It has about 130K miles.  What struck me as odd was that he 
said this is
 >his second starter on that truck.

 >Now, I garage keep all my vehicles and he never does, I would guess 
that could
 >play into it.

Eric,

I seriously doubt that him not garaging his truck made the 
difference.  I have seen
this same sort of thing many time, especially with my wife and my 
cars.  We both
had 84 Hondas, hers a civic wagon, mine an accord.  Her starter 
failed at about
65K miles along with both half shafts.  Her alternator went about 
80K, etc.  My Accord got over 120K to the 1st set of 1/2 shafts, 
alternator, and starter.

The difference was the way we drove our cars.  Her's was the grocery getter,
she very seldom drove over 3 mile on any trip, the was pulling into 
tight parking lot
spaces so wheel to wheel locking the steering column. I got in my car, started
it, drover 25 mi. to work, pulled into an empty parking lot.  After work, I
started the car, pulled streight out of the parking space, hit the 
interstate, 25
mi. later I was parked in front of my house.

So the wife's car saw 15 times the number more starts per day than mine did.
Her's also saw a lot more sharp turning, etc.

Next issue is why did the 2nd starter fail?  Where did he get the replacement
starter from?  Back to my accord, the first alternater lasted 160Kmi.  I got a
replacement starter from autozone.  The dealer wanted $600, I found a discount
Honda dealer on line that would see one for $360, and got mine from 
Autozone for
$250.  So of course I went with AutoZone.  That alternator lasted 
just over 2 yrs and 20K mi.  I replaced it with another one from 
AZ.  Again 2 yrs or about 20K.
The real problem with this was it was a 4 hour job to replace the 
alternator as you had to pull the 1/2 shaft to get the alternator 
out.  (Wish Honda have of dimpled
the fire wall so you didn't.)

This made me think about the cost effictiveness of using Aftermark parts.  Had
a similar problem with a Chrysler Van and the Mit. 3L engine.  Water 
pumps $35 from autozone but I went through 3 of then in less than 75K 
miles.  I bought a
pump from the dealer for $150, but it lasted well over the 75K replacement spec
for the timing belts.  With replacing the belts (required to do to 
get to the pump)
taking 8 hr. again, the dealer part was a lot less expensive.

To sum this up you're probably looking at 2 things: driving style, 
and parts supplier.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  9 15:30:13 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 14:29:25 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAsUephJoTtQB3aTAysk8QiNTBhvAAB/UZw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
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> To sum this up you're probably looking at 2 things: driving style, 
> and parts supplier.

I agree entirely, but I would add "luck of the draw" to the list.  A few years ago, the alternator went out on the wife's old Toyota
and I picked up a rebuilt one at a local independent parts house.  I've been dealing with them for many years and never had a
problem.  But this time, the replacement alternator died again within a matter of weeks.  I assumed that meant I had overlooked some
problem, so I went over the entire charging system carefully, even replaced the battery, clamps and fusible link.  But the next
replacement again failed within a matter of weeks, as did the one after that and the one after that.

Then I got a good one, and it is still working today (although we've since passed the car along to a family friend).  Same
rebuilder, same supplier, no other changes to the car.  I assume the rebuilder got a batch of weak diodes or something, but ???

Randall
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 17:39:14 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The DJI Phantom 2+ gets amazing reviews and I've seen some really
impressive sample videos:

https://store.dji.com/phantom?gclid=CjwKEAiAlb6lBRCBw4jC-bb3uykSJAB55Ti9drbZvfMhP_Qi4VcrbeTekZJpyIhojoAN3_5kdv4LOhoCMA_w_wcB

-Paul

On Fri, Jan 9, 2015 at 2:13 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, this is a little off-topic, but I'll be using it as a tool, so I guess
> that qualifies.
>
> I'm looking to get a quad copter with a video camera to help me manage my
> wood farm and the surrounding areas.  I have lots of uses for something
> like this (also check the gutters of the shop, etc (so there shop
> content)).
>
> I've been looking at these on Amazon and they don't give enough detail as
> to why one is better than the other.
>
> (Note, I'm not looking at the little ones for under $100 bucks.  I've
> budgeted about $1000 for one, but can go higher if there is a good reason
> to.)
>
> I don't need long 'flight times.'  I do want to be about to see the video
> as it's flying.  I would love to be able to take 'stills' as well in
> flight.
>
> The camera needs to be able to point somewhat 'down.' (It seems most of
> these don't really look down much.)
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2015 17:13:51 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAsQwo9SG/VlzkbTbWjkGLYdBKYSAAL1Juw
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Eric,

Find your local RC flying club and learn what and how to fly from them.  You
can find them here:

http://www.modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
eric@megageek.com
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2015 11:14 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras

OK, this is a little off-topic, but I'll be using it as a tool, so I guess 
that qualifies.

I'm looking to get a quad copter with a video camera to help me manage my 
wood farm and the surrounding areas.  I have lots of uses for something 
like this (also check the gutters of the shop, etc (so there shop 
content)).

I've been looking at these on Amazon and they don't give enough detail as 
to why one is better than the other.

(Note, I'm not looking at the little ones for under $100 bucks.  I've 
budgeted about $1000 for one, but can go higher if there is a good reason 
to.)

I don't need long 'flight times.'  I do want to be about to see the video 
as it's flying.  I would love to be able to take 'stills' as well in 
flight.

The camera needs to be able to point somewhat 'down.' (It seems most of 
these don't really look down much.)

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 04:23:42 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 06:11:23 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/10/2015 06:11:20, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
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WOW, thanks for all the info. 

To answer a few questions that I created...

I was not able to take apart the starter to find the cause (sol attached 
to it as well.)

The failure mode was the typical 'loud click, no starter motor movement. 
Battery and charging system was completely checked.

My buddy is 'tough' on things to say the least and no one to take care of 
his stuff.  So I suspected that played into it as well.

Also, I found out that he had just replaced the pos battery terminal about 
2 weeks prior because it was so corroded.

I'm guessing the failing connector caused a 'arc' condition in the 
solenoid.  When the new terminal was installed, the damage was already 
done and it was just a matter of time.

Thanks again for all the replies!  I love this place.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 04:37:04 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 06:19:45 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/10/2015 06:19:41, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quad Copter with video cameras
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Again, WOW! on the great answers.

The overwhelming majority seem to point to the DJI Phantom 2+ so I'm going 
with that.  I'm just waiting for the East coast to wake up so I can talk 
to someone.  8>)

I do have to say that I really HATE the way most new technology start ups 
constantly upgrade and improve designs (significantly) and use the same 
name with no real way to discern what item you are actually buying.

With this model, there is a new 3 v.0.  It has a new remote, motors, 
software, etc.  Yet the old one the and new one are named identically.

You can upgrade the old one to the new one, but if I want to buy the new 
one, it's hard to know what I'm getting.  (most sellers advertise the 
"v3.0" but that can mean its a new one or an upgraded one.)  UGG!!!

When you make major improvements, CHANGE THE MODEL NAME (or at least add a 
suffix!)

I'm done ranting.

Thanks again for all your help!

I'm going to throw a donation to the list since this was off topic!!!  (In 
fact, I think I'll make this a rule for me.  If I ask an off topic post 
and get a good answer, I'll donate again!)

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 04:37:24 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 06:23:12 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/10/2015 06:23:07, Serialize complete at
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Problems with the donation link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a note, I tried to donate to via the link at the bottom of each post 
and you get a 'Out dated link' error from paypal.

And I didn't know this, but you can't 'search' for someone without a phone 
number on paypal to make the donation.

So please update the link so I can make my donation.

Thanks again.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 07:05:44 2015
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Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 09:02:51 -0500
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <6.2.5.6.1.20150109160943.04de91a0@cox.net>
 <eBUH1p00C0NyJgq01BUJnk>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Starter problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 06:11 AM 1/10/2015, eric@megageek.com wrote:

 >The failure mode was the typical 'loud click, no starter motor movement.
 >Battery and charging system was completely checked.

Eric

That is indicative of the burned contacts on the starter 
solenoid.  The solenoid
is pulling the plunger in, but when the connecting plate hits the "nonburned"
contact, it doesn't touch the "burned" contact.  So no power is supplied to the
motor.

 >Also, I found out that he had just replaced the pos battery terminal about 2
 >weeks prior because it was so corroded.  I'm guessing the failing connector
 >caused a 'arc' condition in the solenoid.

The battery post failure had nothing to do with the solenoid contact 
failure.  I've
seen the solenoid contact failure on many different vechiles that 
didn' have battery
post clamp issues at the same time.  In fact this is the 1st time 
I've heard of any
kind of battery/post/cable failure at the same time as the solenoid contact.

It's just usage.   Don't know if you remember in the older cars with 
distributors and
points,  there was a "condenser" / capacitor placed across the 
points?  This was to
reduce the sparking and errosion of the point.  Unfortunately, the 
solenoid doesn't
have a capacitor accross it, and because of the starter pulls a lot 
more current
than there is across the points.  So it's bound to happen.

Many car manufactures sell the contacts for about $12 - 25 and you can usually
replace them yourself.  However, for the car repair shop, they just 
replace the
hole kitten-cupoodle as it is cheaper.  The starter has to come out 
either way.
Then you'll pay almost as much to have a mechanic to replace the contact as
the starter costs.  What a bummer.  But on the good side, you've got all new
innards - bearings, etc.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




---
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 10:33:03 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 09:35:12 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAsymhhoAEX9VAlTxOHGfB6lSkQnQALl22w
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Problems with the donation link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Just a note, I tried to donate to via the link at the bottom 
> of each post 
> and you get a 'Out dated link' error from paypal.

I just tried it, and the link works for me.  The link at the bottom of each post
leads to a web page on the Team.Net server, that has instructions on both how to snail mail a paper check (how archaic! <g>) and a
link to PayPal.  

The link from the web page leads to a PayPal page where you'll have to either log into your PayPal account, or give them your mobile
phone number (along with other personal information) to create a account (which can be temporary).  That is a PayPal restriction,
you must be able to receive text messages (ie have a mobile phone) in order to automatically create an account.  (There may be an
alternate route that doesn't require text messages, but I don't know of any.)

The search box says "email or mobile number", so if you want to use that instead of the link, enter "fcg@autox.team.net" (without
the quotes) as the email address.  (You can also just enter a fake phone number, so the search will fail and ask you to enter a name
and address.  But be certain it's actually a number that does not belong to anyone, like 310-555-1212, otherwise you may wind up
paying the wrong person.)

-- Randall  
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 11:52:12 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 13:39:54 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/10/2015 13:39:52, Serialize complete at
 01/10/2015 13:39:52
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Problems with the donation link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hum, it worked this time.  I was able to make the donation.

Before it kept telling me that the link was old and outdated.

Oh well.

Thanks again everyone!!!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




"Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> 
01/10/2015 12:20 PM

To
<eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
cc

Subject
RE: [Shop-talk] Problems with the donation link






> Just a note, I tried to donate to via the link at the bottom 
> of each post 
> and you get a 'Out dated link' error from paypal.

I just tried it, and the link works for me.  The link at the bottom of 
each post
leads to a web page on the Team.Net server, that has instructions on both 
how to snail mail a paper check (how archaic! <g>) and a
link to PayPal. 

The link from the web page leads to a PayPal page where you'll have to 
either log into your PayPal account, or give them your mobile
phone number (along with other personal information) to create a account 
(which can be temporary).  That is a PayPal restriction,
you must be able to receive text messages (ie have a mobile phone) in 
order to automatically create an account.  (There may be an
alternate route that doesn't require text messages, but I don't know of 
any.)

The search box says "email or mobile number", so if you want to use that 
instead of the link, enter "fcg@autox.team.net" (without
the quotes) as the email address.  (You can also just enter a fake phone 
number, so the search will fail and ask you to enter a name
and address.  But be certain it's actually a number that does not belong 
to anyone, like 310-555-1212, otherwise you may wind up
paying the wrong person.)

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 13:34:07 2015
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Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2015 13:35:06 -0700
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References: <OFA5877D99.630E921F-ON85257DC9.003E3AEF-85257DC9.0040156D@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Problems with the donation link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Just a note, I tried to donate to via the link at the bottom of each post
> and you get a 'Out dated link' error from paypal.

Odd, it just worked for me, was tied to the proper donations@autox.team.net email
address.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 10 13:37:16 2015
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References: <OFA5877D99.630E921F-ON85257DC9.003E3AEF-85257DC9.0040156D@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Problems with the donation link
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Looks like you got it working, thanks!!

mjb.
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 <51B28C463421424299C721D562D6446F@EricJRussellPC>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 09:14:05 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

In the past when I had the lift setup it did seem to have a lot of "stuff"
sitting on it when I wasn't using it :)

The ramps on mine are 14" wide.  This is an early lift built by a company
called Grand out of Texas.  It just so happens the model of my lift is
"TR3".  Somehow that just seemed appropriate to me!

The adjustable shower poles is an interesting suggestion.  That might work
well with something Marty suggested to me.

Thanks for the idea!

Brad


On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 8:57 PM, Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net> wrote:

>
>  Anyone have a 4-post lift that has the trays and if so how well do you
>> like them?
>>
>
> Since a four post lift excels at storage, it seems like drip trays are a
> good idea!
>
> I have a Direct Lift ProPark 9 - I bought that model because it has ramps a
> few inches wider than other models. This allows it to fit the narrow track
> of my smaller cars (MGA, Alfa Romeo) and also my F250 pick-up.
>
>  My platforms can be adjusted out to almost 9' outside edge to outside edge
>> and can also be moved together to where they touch each other.  That's why
>> I've struggled with what to do about leakage trays.
>>
>
> I thought about a lift with a moveable ramp but that makes both drip trays
> &
> a jacking bridge problematic.
>
> For your lift with moveable ramps, how about a few spring tension shower
> curtain poles? They could be fairly easily adjusted for the varying ramp
> widths and could then support a few light weight drip trays.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 09:31:02 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Brian,

This is another good idea for creating an alternative to drip pans.

I've come to the conclusion that I won't be adding the angles at the bottom
of the platforms/ramps partly because of all the good ideas I've gotten for
alternative drip pans and also due to the interference they would have
caused with my jacking platform.

I fabricated a platform that drops down between the platform/ramps where I
can place a bottle jack.  The bottle jack platform is designed for the
width of my Triumphs so is somewhat limited in use but I value it more than
drip pans :)

Thanks!

Brad


On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 12:20 AM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

>  How about some 6mil plastic sheeting and a frame of PVC pipe or conduit?
> Two pipes will run the length of the vehicle, resting on the platform
> inside the tires, and two shorter lengths can be attached to T's as
> spreaders.  Change the length of the spreaders based on vehicle width.
> Thinking something like this (imagine there is no line spacing):
>
> |_|
> |_|
> | |
>
> You could get fancy and put a couple hooks on the inside of the platforms
> and set the pipe in them.
>
> You could make the plastic a little wider at one end so there is slope for
> any drippings to drain off.  When not in use, just roll it up.
>
> Should you bump it while working on one of the cars, no danger of it
> scratching the bottom car with PVC either.
>
> Brian, wishing a lift of any sort was a possibility.
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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 09:49:32 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Another aspect of my 4-post lift is the effort required to push the
platforms sideways when changing from one vehicle width to another.  The
platforms are HEAVY and don't slide all that well and tend to bind when
pushing on then ends.  I've been wondering it would help if I added some
thin adhesive backed UHMW strips across the beams and on the underside of
the platforms.  Would the UHMW strips last and would they help in getting
the platforms to slide easier?

Thanks!

Brad
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 19:50:40 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Another aspect of my 4-post lift is the effort required to push the
> platforms sideways when changing from one vehicle width to another.  The
> platforms are HEAVY and don't slide all that well and tend to bind when
> pushing on then ends.  I've been wondering it would help if I added some
> thin adhesive backed UHMW strips across the beams and on the underside of
> the platforms.  Would the UHMW strips last and would they help in getting
> the platforms to slide easier?

I would try slip plate first.  It's a graphite lubricant, designed for
sliding surfaces.  Doesn't attract muck like greases do, and stays in
place pretty well.  You can get it in a spray can, or as a brush on.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 14 11:47:52 2015
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 13:51:45 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

David,

I'm not sure that slip plate would be appropriate for my situation.  I need
to be able to sit and/or stand on the cross beams where the slip plate
would be applied.   I have a feeling things might get a little messy in my
shop using that product!

Brad



On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 8:50 PM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Another aspect of my 4-post lift is the effort required to push the
> > platforms sideways when changing from one vehicle width to another.  The
> > platforms are HEAVY and don't slide all that well and tend to bind when
> > pushing on then ends.  I've been wondering it would help if I added some
> > thin adhesive backed UHMW strips across the beams and on the underside of
> > the platforms.  Would the UHMW strips last and would they help in getting
> > the platforms to slide easier?
>
> I would try slip plate first.  It's a graphite lubricant, designed for
> sliding surfaces.  Doesn't attract muck like greases do, and stays in
> place pretty well.  You can get it in a spray can, or as a brush on.
>
>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:15:25 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, next issue with the 4-post lift.  The in-feed ramps on my lift were
fixed ramps (welded to the platforms) and were only about 16" long.  That
made for a pretty steep angle.  Matter of fact the Spitfire race car
couldn't get started up the ramps because of the slick shop floor, the
tires just spun on the concrete.

I've already cut those ramps off and am trying to figure out what would
work the best as a replacement.  Right now I'm leaning towards fabricating
ramps that are significantly longer but are not fixed to the platforms.  My
thought is to possibly have them attach with a pin of some sort which would
allow me to remove them so they can be moved out of the way once the lift
is up in the air.
I don't think I would like having them pivot down as they would just be in
the way and I had previously hit my head on the original ramps enough times
to know I don't like them sticking out!

Thoughts?
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:20:06 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The ramps on my lift "hook" on the cross-member.  I don't see the need for
pins, since gravity will do the job of holding them down.  Here's a link to
optional Aluminum ramps for my lift.  I don't recommend a $300 set of Al
ramps, but they'll give you an idea of how they work:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Aluminum-Approach-Ramps-pair

-Paul

On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ok, next issue with the 4-post lift.  The in-feed ramps on my lift were
> fixed ramps (welded to the platforms) and were only about 16" long.  That
> made for a pretty steep angle.  Matter of fact the Spitfire race car
> couldn't get started up the ramps because of the slick shop floor, the
> tires just spun on the concrete.
>
> I've already cut those ramps off and am trying to figure out what would
> work the best as a replacement.  Right now I'm leaning towards fabricating
> ramps that are significantly longer but are not fixed to the platforms.  My
> thought is to possibly have them attach with a pin of some sort which would
> allow me to remove them so they can be moved out of the way once the lift
> is up in the air.
> I don't think I would like having them pivot down as they would just be in
> the way and I had previously hit my head on the original ramps enough times
> to know I don't like them sticking out!
>
> Thoughts?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:21:16 -0500
From: Larry Spector <lspector@gmail.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I went with the bend-pak aluminum ramps:
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/accessories/aluminum-approach-ramp-kit.aspx

they're light enough to just pick up and move out of the way.

-Larry

On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ok, next issue with the 4-post lift.  The in-feed ramps on my lift were
> fixed ramps (welded to the platforms) and were only about 16" long.  That
> made for a pretty steep angle.  Matter of fact the Spitfire race car
> couldn't get started up the ramps because of the slick shop floor, the
> tires just spun on the concrete.
>
> I've already cut those ramps off and am trying to figure out what would
> work the best as a replacement.  Right now I'm leaning towards fabricating
> ramps that are significantly longer but are not fixed to the platforms.  My
> thought is to possibly have them attach with a pin of some sort which would
> allow me to remove them so they can be moved out of the way once the lift
> is up in the air.
> I don't think I would like having them pivot down as they would just be in
> the way and I had previously hit my head on the original ramps enough times
> to know I don't like them sticking out!
>
> Thoughts?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lspector@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:32:54 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul, the style shown in the link won't work for my lift as my platforms
hook over the beams blocking any place to hook the ramps.

However the ones Larry Spector is referring to would definitely work.  The
attachment method is simpler than pins and the fab shop down the road can
easily bend some aluminum diamond plate for me that should work just fine.

Thanks guys!

Brad




On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:20 PM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> The ramps on my lift "hook" on the cross-member.  I don't see the need for
> pins, since gravity will do the job of holding them down.  Here's a link to
> optional Aluminum ramps for my lift.  I don't recommend a $300 set of Al
> ramps, but they'll give you an idea of how they work:
>
> http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Aluminum-Approach-Ramps-pair
>
> -Paul
>
> On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Ok, next issue with the 4-post lift.  The in-feed ramps on my lift were
>> fixed ramps (welded to the platforms) and were only about 16" long.
>> That.......
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 09:49:01 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: ROBERT LANE <robolane@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Robo,

My platforms (rails?) are adjustable which allows me to lift small vehicles
and large vehicles just by sliding the platforms.

I sure do wish Boeing was in my area!

Thanks,

Brad


On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 4:39 PM, ROBERT LANE <robolane@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> *I  have a 4 post lift.  The distance between the inside of the rail webs
> is 43 & 5/8"  I have 48inch square  storage shelves turned  upside down
> between the tails. to compensate for the slop. I used light springs,
> washers & 1/4" bolts on the corners on one side.*
> *Note the storage shelves is what Boeing  uses for storing all kind of
> things.  The only color I have seen the shelves is white. They come with
> the holes predrilled and ready to assemble.*
> * Hopes this helps*
>
> CATCH YOU LATER,
>      ROBO
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The aluminum ramps are pricey, but they sure are nice every time you 
move them.
And they are not toe crushers when dropped while moving or if knocked over.
My dad had them and we loved them.
Can't remember how many times we used them over the years and said ' boy 
they sure were expensive, but worth it'
At least for us.
Especially as dad got older.
He is done working on cars and sold the lifts last year, when we had to 
move the steel ramps from the basement I remembered why I was happy that 
he had bought one set of the aluminum.
Not that you can't lift the steel ones, but the ease of the aluminum was 
nice.

And the steel middle plate for the lift was a bear (set of plates that 
fill in the middle of the lift for storage).
  We moved it by hand a few times, then I used the engine hoist once we 
got it.
Only issue was trying to balance it, didn't work well and a lot of 
weight once it got moving ( I had to move it out of one bay, onto drive 
and into other bay).



On 1/14/2015 1:20 PM, Paul Parkanzky wrote:
> The ramps on my lift "hook" on the cross-member.  I don't see the need for
> pins, since gravity will do the job of holding them down.  Here's a link to
> optional Aluminum ramps for my lift.  I don't recommend a $300 set of Al
> ramps, but they'll give you an idea of how they work:
>
> http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Aluminum-Approach-Ramps-pair
>
> -Paul
>
> On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 10:03:45 -0600
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Shop-talk] Laser printer help needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a  HP color laserjet 2840 in my shop office that I need to work on.
Does anyone have access to one for a few observations? I am having trouble
getting the carousel drive synchronized. I think I know the problem but
can't find a picture of what I need in the service manual to make it work.
It would be even better if someone has the carousel assembly out of a
printer to look at.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Peace,

Pat

 

Pat Horne

Horne Systems

5026 FM 2001 Lockhart, TX 78644

512.797.7501

 

We support Habitat for Humanity, A hand UP, not a hand OUT
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From: Marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 20:50:40 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Lift ramps
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I have 2 pieces of the industrial grating that is typically used over drain
troughs and such.  They are like 8 foot long. I drilled two holes in the
ends of each one and then stuck two long carriage bolts through the holes.
I then drilled two holes in the short ramps on my lift.  I keep the two
extensions bungeed vertical against the lift posts. When I need them for a
low vehicle I get them down and put them in place.

Marty
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 19:04:16 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Land Cruiser value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My sister-in-law's late husband left her an 84 land cruiser (the station 
wagon model, not the jeep model) in decent shape but with unknown miles 
at this point.  I have seen it a couple of times but never ridden in it 
or driven it, and I'm not a 4x4 guy.  Are these things worth anything, 
and is there any kind of market for them? She has no use for it but 
doesn't just want to throw it out on CL and have to deal with the 
inevitable knuckleheads that will call.

thanks
Dave
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 15 20:56:07 2015
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 21:00:16 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <54B87FB0.2090401@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Land Cruiser value
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Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> My sister-in-law's late husband left her an 84 land cruiser (the station wagon model, not the jeep model) in decent shape but with unknown miles at this point.  I have seen it a couple of times but never ridden in it or driven it, and I'm not a 4x4 guy.  Are these things worth anything, and is there any kind of market for them? She has no use for it but doesn't just want to throw it out on CL and have to deal with the inevitable knuckleheads that will call.

Might be worth more than you think. Toyota FJ series vehicles are actually in high demand. The Jeep model, FJ40 is more popular but the FJ60 does have some value. You might do some web searches for Toyota FJ60 and see what turns up.

Oh wait a minute, I lied. They are junk. I'll be nice to a Team.Net subscriber and give you $500 if you deliver it to my door in Salt Lake City.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 15 21:08:45 2015
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 20:11:13 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <54B87FB0.2090401@frontier.com>
  <54B88CD0.80701@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Land Cruiser value
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Well, I might be relocating to Logan in a year or so; maybe you could 
drive up and pick it up...


On 1/15/2015 8:00 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
>> My sister-in-law's late husband left her an 84 land cruiser (the 
>> station wagon model, not the jeep model) in decent shape but with 
>> unknown miles at this point.  I have seen it a couple of times but 
>> never ridden in it or driven it, and I'm not a 4x4 guy.  Are these 
>> things worth anything, and is there any kind of market for them? She 
>> has no use for it but doesn't just want to throw it out on CL and 
>> have to deal with the inevitable knuckleheads that will call.
>
> Might be worth more than you think. Toyota FJ series vehicles are 
> actually in high demand. The Jeep model, FJ40 is more popular but the 
> FJ60 does have some value. You might do some web searches for Toyota 
> FJ60 and see what turns up.
>
> Oh wait a minute, I lied. They are junk. I'll be nice to a Team.Net 
> subscriber and give you $500 if you deliver it to my door in Salt Lake 
> City.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2015 18:48:08 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Lift ramps
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Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2015 18:51:51 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Jack Brooks <jibrooks@live.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
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Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2015 18:55:30 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4-post lift thoughts
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 18:07:30 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] new tool    Oscillating tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I needed to replace a fogged up window in a french patio door.  in the
stationary side.  Removed the trim and tried every way I could... the window
would not come out... it was glued in to the side of the trim that did not
remove...  tried utility knife and putty knife and pryed away but didn't want
to break it...

Enter the Rigid oscillating tool...  always wondered what I'd use one for...
till a guy in Lowes said to try it to remove the glue on the window...   so I
bought one  and slipped the blade between the window and the trim...  in about
20 minutes I'd removed 188" of hard glue and the window was out...  these
things are handyier than a shirt pocket...

gotta find more uses for this bad boy

john
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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 19:39:33 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] new tool    Oscillating tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 16:59:19 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <576AF9FF54B945D6A042B54600503101@john5043a2d406>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] new tool    Oscillating tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I have the cheap Harbor Freight version and recommend this type of tool 
as well.  They are great for close quarters where you don't have room 
for a bigger tool.  They also provide much greater control where 
neatness counts compared to a reciprocating saw.

Examples:

- Using a diamond blade to carefully remove grout so I could remove 
tiles without damage to surrounding area

- Cutting window casing to remove it without having to remove the window 
- nice neat line at the edge of the window that can be caulked

- Cutting the roof deck so I could get to one area of the attic from 
another.  This was flat on my belly with arms fully extended (low 
California roof)

- Cutting all nails and caulk to allow me to remove an exterior door 
without disturbing the exterior stucco molding

- Cutting studs in the wall without breaking drywall or popping drywall 
nails to install a new electrical panel

- Cutting installed base molding to either remove damaged sections or 
install wider door casing

I am on my second one, but the first had at least 50 hours of very hard 
use before dying.  I had no problem dropping another $20 for a new one.  
The more expensive models are probably better made and some make blade 
changing much easier than backing out an allen screw, so that is 
something to consider.

Brian


On 1/19/2015 4:07 PM, John Niolon wrote:
> I needed to replace a fogged up window in a french patio door.  in the
> stationary side.  Removed the trim and tried every way I could... the window
> would not come out... it was glued in to the side of the trim that did not
> remove...  tried utility knife and putty knife and pryed away but didn't want
> to break it...
>
> Enter the Rigid oscillating tool...  always wondered what I'd use one for...
> till a guy in Lowes said to try it to remove the glue on the window...   so I
> bought one  and slipped the blade between the window and the trim...  in about
> 20 minutes I'd removed 188" of hard glue and the window was out...  these
> things are handyier than a shirt pocket...
>
> gotta find more uses for this bad boy
>
> john
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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 20:37:59 -0600
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] new tool Oscillating tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Enter the Rigid oscillating tool...



>  gotta find more uses for this bad boy


You will, believe me.

Took out a chimney.  Had to fill the hole in the attic floor.  Original is
3/4" boards across joists.  Cut 3/4" plywood to run to centers of joists.
Squared up hole by running oscillating saw along plywood edge.  Inlay fits
perfectly.




-- 
pethier@comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 20 06:15:16 2015
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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2015 08:12:41 -0500
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <576AF9FF54B945D6A042B54600503101@john5043a2d406>
 <i1081p00b0NyJgq01109m7>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] new tool    Oscillating tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 07:59 PM 1/19/2015, Brian Kemp wrote:

 >I have the cheap Harbor Freight version and recommend this type of tool as
 >well. ....

Brian,

I too have the cheap Harbor Freight version, have had it for about 5 
yrs or so.
It's probably the best $40 I've ever spent.

 >Examples:

 >- .... Cutting all nails and caulk to allow me to remove an 
exterior door without
 >disturbing the exterior stucco molding

What blade did you use to cut the nails?  I've tried to cut nails but 
keep tearing the
teeth off the blade.

In addition to the uses you've mentioned, I've used mine to help as a scrapper
pulling up old vinyl flooring.  Cutting through calk to remove a counter top.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2015 21:09:15 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>,  Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <576AF9FF54B945D6A042B54600503101@john5043a2d406>
 <i1081p00b0NyJgq01109m7> <6.2.5.6.1.20150120080820.04bbbf30@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] new tool    Oscillating tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John - I used a regular cutting blade and yes it did destroy the teeth 
by the end of the door.  Still, it was worth killing an old blade to get 
the job done.  Now that blade is a narrow scraping blade.  They do have 
metal cutting blades, but I didn't have one at the time.

Brian


On 1/20/2015 5:12 AM, John T. Blair wrote:
> At 07:59 PM 1/19/2015, Brian Kemp wrote:
>
>   >I have the cheap Harbor Freight version and recommend this type of tool as
>   >well. ....
>
> Brian,
>
> I too have the cheap Harbor Freight version, have had it for about 5
> yrs or so.
> It's probably the best $40 I've ever spent.
>
>   >Examples:
>
>   >- .... Cutting all nails and caulk to allow me to remove an
> exterior door without
>   >disturbing the exterior stucco molding
>
> What blade did you use to cut the nails?  I've tried to cut nails but
> keep tearing the
> teeth off the blade.
>
> In addition to the uses you've mentioned, I've used mine to help as a scrapper
> pulling up old vinyl flooring.  Cutting through calk to remove a counter top.
>
> John
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 21 20:32:49 2015
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2015 22:32:32 -0500
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash, and parking lights died
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm asking here because you guys probably know more than anyone on an
enthusiast site (and I searched those sites and got no answers).

I've got a 2004 F-250 Super Duty (diesel).

I just took out the OEM radio and replaced it with an aftermarket Pioneer
unit. I bought an the Metra harness adapter and wired it up according to
instructions.

Everything worked fine...for about a day or two. Then the dash lights went
out, along with the dimming function of the radio (so headlights on the
radio should dim. It did...then it quit). And the speedometer cluster and
the HVAC cluster lights are gone.

Then a few days later, the running lights quit working. So when I turn on
the lights in the truck, the headlights come on, but not the 'driving'
lights, including the rear lights. The brake lights illuminate when the
pedal's pushed, but not the running lights when just the lights are on.

Googling suggested replacing the headlight switch. I did, no fix. I checked
the fuses shown for running lights and they're good.

I for nothing after that, and I'm not sure where to go from there. But I'll
bet you guys know. Any help?

Thanks.

Scott
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 21 21:00:17 2015
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2015 20:02:22 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, 
 "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u4N+3oWpWSJh6WtJDGs__P=OPpExX3Z2+DRsq1i773fdg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking  lights died
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott - I have no specific experience here, but I'd start by taking out 
the new radio and harness.  This will reduce the likelihood that they 
are the problem.  Maybe putting in the new radio pulled or squashed a wire.

Look around the opening for any damaged wires.  It is possible something 
got nicked/damaged and over the few days shorted.  Maybe some of it is 
as simple as a broken wire.  Check and see if you find any sharp 
bends/creases or wires stuck together (indicating heating).

Gently pull on the various wires in the area.  Maybe an important one 
came loose from a connector.  Check for a ground - it should connect to 
metal.

Brian


On 1/21/2015 7:32 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
> I'm asking here because you guys probably know more than anyone on an
> enthusiast site (and I searched those sites and got no answers).
>
> I've got a 2004 F-250 Super Duty (diesel).
>
> I just took out the OEM radio and replaced it with an aftermarket Pioneer
> unit. I bought an the Metra harness adapter and wired it up according to
> instructions.
>
> Everything worked fine...for about a day or two. Then the dash lights went
> out, along with the dimming function of the radio (so headlights on the
> radio should dim. It did...then it quit). And the speedometer cluster and
> the HVAC cluster lights are gone.
>
> Then a few days later, the running lights quit working. So when I turn on
> the lights in the truck, the headlights come on, but not the 'driving'
> lights, including the rear lights. The brake lights illuminate when the
> pedal's pushed, but not the running lights when just the lights are on.
>
> Googling suggested replacing the headlight switch. I did, no fix. I checked
> the fuses shown for running lights and they're good.
>
> I for nothing after that, and I'm not sure where to go from there. But I'll
> bet you guys know. Any help?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2015 08:46:25 -0500
To: "Shop-talk" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking   lights died
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 11:02 PM 1/21/2015, Brian Kemp wrote:

 >Scott - I have no specific experience here, but I'd start by taking 
out the new
 >radio and harness.  This will reduce the likelihood that they are 
the problem.
 >Maybe putting in the new radio pulled or squashed a wire.  .....

Brian,

Excellent responce.

The only additional thing I can think of is, does the new radio 
(which will be out of
the system when Scott removes I new radio harness) require more power than the
old one, ie, does it have a built in amp?  If so then it may be 
pulling too much
current and blown a fuse, a fusable link, or melted a run in the dash cluster.

Like Brian, I have no experience with this vechile, but I do have 
experience with
the Chyslers mini vans.  I know they have a habbit of a problem 
similar to what
Scott describes.  There is a cold solder join on the main connector 
that supplies
power to the dash cluster.  Hitting the dash will make the connection 
occassionally
and the dash lights and insturment will come back for a little 
while.  You have to pull
the cluster to fix this problem.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 22 07:14:51 2015
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Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:15:57 GMT
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking    lights d ied
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had really good luck with these folks:

http://circuitboardmedics.com/ford-instrument-cluster-repair/

for known weak link repairs...
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 22 08:15:02 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2015 09:59:17 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/22/2015 09:59:09, Serialize complete at
 01/22/2015 09:59:09
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking  lights died
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott,

I'm not sure what it would entail (or even if it's possible) but can you 
put the stock radio back in for a test?

Some of these CAN systems get crazy when everything isn't 100% like it 
wants.  Especially if there are 'tie-ins' from other systems (I think you 
said the radio dims with the headlights).

If it's a matter of removing some dash and changing out a harness, it 
might be worth trying.  If you had to cut and splice wires to do the 
install, it may not be worth it.

Just a suggestion.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 22 09:15:28 2015
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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2015 10:17:22 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking  lights died
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What Brian said, plus a couple of addition thoughts. If you don't have a
wiring diagram I'd suggest getting one. It's impossible to figure out the
circuit paths, especially on newer vehicles, without one. That said, I've
never seen a car or truck that had the radio display in series with the
rest of the dash lighting. Those have always been a parallel circuit in my
experience. And I doubt the system is configured so that the radio has to
be plugged in for the other lights to work. But without a wiring diagram
it's impossible to be sure.

I'd pull the new radio and harness adapter and see if that "fixes" the
issues. You may have made a mistake when you mated the Metra adapter
harness to the Pioneer radio harness. Those adapters often have wires that
aren't used, plus some color coding may not match. If you pull the new
radio and harness you stand a good chance of things working as they should.
I'd also take a good look to see if a wire in either the radio or factory
dash harness got cut or pinched.

I've bought most of my aftermarket car audio from Crutchfield for a long
time for several reasons. While they're not the cheapest, they usually are
very competitive, and their customer service and tech support are
absolutely the best. The radios usually include both mounting harness
adapters, for free, and their installation instructions are the best. Last
spring I bought an Alpine to replace the OE radio in the '98 F-150 we
bought around Easter. The guy I talked to suggested I use Posi-Twist
(*http://tinyurl.com/nonf7qg
<http://tinyurl.com/nonf7qg>*) connectors to connect the Alpine harness to
the Metra adapter. I definitely suggest these or something similar. So much
easier than soldering and heat shrink, much more reliable than crimp-ons,
which I've grown to hate. Using these a connection can be changed easily.
They are availble from other sources in a variety of sizes and
configurations.

My one Crutchfield disappointment is the Metra dash kit I bought several
years ago for our '05 Accord sedan. And my problem is with the Metra kit,
not Crutchfield. The kit replaces most of the center stack in the dash
including the HVAC controls. These controls never worked consistantly so I
restalled the OE Honda radio with a Spec USA iPod adapter. It looks like
Metra has a new version of this kit out which is getting better reviews so
I may give it a try. I really like to use Bluetooth to connect our phones
to the Accord radio. I can already do that in our Suburban and the F-150
P/U.

Anyway, did I mention get a wiring diagram?

HTH,
Ron


On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 8:59 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Scott,
>
> I'm not sure what it would entail (or even if it's possible) but can you
> put the stock radio back in for a test?
>
> Some of these CAN systems get crazy when everything isn't 100% like it
> wants.  Especially if there are 'tie-ins' from other systems (I think you
> said the radio dims with the headlights).
>
> If it's a matter of removing some dash and changing out a harness, it
> might be worth trying.  If you had to cut and splice wires to do the
> install, it may not be worth it.
>
> Just a suggestion.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 22 09:32:20 2015
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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2015 11:36:21 -0500
From: Trevor Boicey <trevor@boicey.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking  lights died
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I hope this isn't your problem, but I have a 2004 Dodge Durango that had
some kind of dash fire at some time.

The vehicle would always run and drive, but the dash had a continuous and
amusing series of failures for a long time. The entire dash would go black,
then come back, over and over like a computer stuck on a reboot loop. The
climate control would randomly go off, then reappear.

I got it cheap because the OBD port wasn't working so the vehicle couldn't
get an e-test.

Eventually I got it all sorted out, give or take.

But I hope that isn't your problem.

On Thu, Jan 22, 2015 at 9:59 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Scott,
>
> I'm not sure what it would entail (or even if it's possible) but can you
> put the stock radio back in for a test?
>
> Some of these CAN systems get crazy when everything isn't 100% like it
> wants.  Especially if there are 'tie-ins' from other systems (I think you
> said the radio dims with the headlights).
>
> If it's a matter of removing some dash and changing out a harness, it
> might be worth trying.  If you had to cut and splice wires to do the
> install, it may not be worth it.
>
> Just a suggestion.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:28:56 -0800
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 mail.com>
References: <OF1D3AE17D.14846203-ON85257DD5.00520082-85257DD5.0053DCB8@mail.megageek.com>
 <CAK73_u4N+3oWpWSJh6WtJDGs__P=OPpExX3Z2+DRsq1i773fdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <OF1D3AE17D.14846203-ON85257DD5.00520082-85257DD5.0053DCB8@mail.megageek.com>
 localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Truck instrument cluster, dash,
 and parking   lights died
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

         Very common in the VW world for someone to buy a wiring adapter to 
install an aftermarket stereo only to have the Check Engine light come on 
and cause other electrical oddities.
         Problem is, some of these adapters try to put 12v on the CAN bus 
wire in the radio connector which the computers do not like at all.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       501,000 miles <- Yeah, baby!
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 25 17:55:27 2015
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2015 19:20:37 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/25/2015 19:40:42, Serialize complete at
 01/25/2015 19:40:42
Subject: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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Well, not exactly.  My buddy has a 2006 F350 pick up.  He called me 
because the rear brake was squirting fluid.  I when up to where he was. 
Turns out all four (two on each side) pistons in the rear brakes looked 
like they had been smashed with a sledge hammer.  I've never seen a brake 
piston fail like that before, never mind all four on the rear.

Weird thing was the pads on the passenger side were worn completely down 
and the rotor was shot.  The driver's side pads were rusty as well, but 
had almost all their 'meat' on them.

Any ideas what caused it?

Thanks

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2015 19:25:55 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/25/2015 19:40:42, Serialize complete at
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure washers (electric ones.)
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OK, I'm in the market for an electric pressure washer.  I have a gas one 
for the times I need the extra power, but I really like the convenience of 
an electric one that I don't have to 'fuss' with each time I use it.

I know quality an performance vary completely in this market.  I've been 
all over the internet searching and I can't find any definitive winners. 
I'm not too worried about price, but I want a really good one (but I'm not 
going for the Snap on versions or anything.  BTW, did you know that Snap 
On does NOT have a lifetime on their PW.  It's a one year only.)  Oh, I 
have a Snap On branded one that stopped working.  8>(

Does anyone have any pointers for good ones, or sites that compare them?

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2015 21:34:12 -0600
References: <OFAAA3A26A.74514840-ON85257DD9.00017D35-85257DD9.00036AB0@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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Any ideas what caused it?

"F350 pick up."

sorry. couldn't resist.
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2015 19:48:25 -0800
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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On 1/25/2015 7:34 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Any ideas what caused it?
>
> "F350 pick up."
>
> sorry. couldn't resist.

Are they steel pistons?

Ford tried phenolic-resin pistons in several applications a while back, 
and they were notorious for coming apart in heavy use.

But it would surprise me a LOT if Ford went down that road in something 
like an F350.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 26 03:56:50 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 05:41:51 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/26/2015 05:41:53, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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I don't know what they were made of.  Here is a photo of one of the 
calipers with the failed pistons in it.

http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/d1f76fb58c8f84f685257dd9003a7e29?OpenDocument



Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> 
Sent by: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
01/25/2015 10:34 PM

To
shop-talk@autox.team.net
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion






On 1/25/2015 7:34 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Any ideas what caused it?
>
> "F350 pick up."
>
> sorry. couldn't resist.

Are they steel pistons?

Ford tried phenolic-resin pistons in several applications a while back, 
and they were notorious for coming apart in heavy use.

But it would surprise me a LOT if Ford went down that road in something 
like an F350.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 26 04:34:57 2015
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 11:33:35 +0000
From: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF6DCF1050.BF586185-ON85257DD9.003AAF1E-85257DD9.003C55E2@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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That looks like a phenolic type of material (hard plastic stuff). I 
would say that has been caused by excessive heat and/or time.

I had a 1992 BMW that had the waterpump impeller made of similar 
material - they work fine at normal temperatures, but if there is 
overheating (for example when the radiator  or a hose fails and the 
coolant escapes) the resulting overheat causes the impeller to crack and 
fall of the end of the waterpump shaft.
Neil


On 26/01/2015 10:41, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> I don't know what they were made of.  Here is a photo of one of the
> calipers with the failed pistons in it.
>
> http://www.megageek.com/photo/photoa~1.nsf/a7ffeab012bbfb5b85256eb1007ca7f6/d1f76fb58c8f84f685257dd9003a7e29?OpenDocument
>
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
>
>
>
>
> John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
> Sent by: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>
> 01/25/2015 10:34 PM
>
> To
> shop-talk@autox.team.net
> cc
>
> Subject
> Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 1/25/2015 7:34 PM, Tim . wrote:
>> Any ideas what caused it?
>>
>> "F350 pick up."
>>
>> sorry. couldn't resist.
> Are they steel pistons?
>
> Ford tried phenolic-resin pistons in several applications a while back,
> and they were notorious for coming apart in heavy use.
>
> But it would surprise me a LOT if Ford went down that road in something
> like an F350.
>
> John.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pressure washers (electric ones.)
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 08:01:02 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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On 1/26/2015 2:41 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> I don't know what they were made of.  Here is a photo of one of the
> calipers with the failed pistons in it.

Yeah, those are the phenolic pistons.

What year was this truck?  Are those the original calipers?

Automakers will claim they use them to reduce heat transfer from the pad 
to the fluid, and this may be one consideration, but they are also much 
cheaper than steel.

The biggest downside, of course, is what you've just seen, whether due 
to heat or to physical damage.

If this quote:

90% of all Ford cars and light trucks now
come with phenolic brake pistons, and 100%
of Chrysler production is equipped with
phenolics. GM is starting to use phenolics
also.

from this document:

https://my.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/Brakes/Protech/Training/brake2.pdf

is true, I think we're all gonna see a lot more of this.

John.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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 Good link!
Excellent googleFu...


---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 08:01:02 -0800



from this document:

https://my.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/Brakes/Protech/Training/brake2.p
df

is true, I think we're all gonna see a lot more of this.

John.
____________________________________________________________
The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar &#40;Don&#39;t Eat
This!&#41;
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54c66d0db8b896d0d643ast03vuc
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References: <20150126.113504.28934.1@webmail10.vgs.untd.com>
From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 09:01:23 -0800
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, eric@megageek.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In addition to the note I sent you Eric, there is apparently a TSB on rear
calipers sticking.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1090527-f350-rear-parking-brake-sticking.html

I couldn't find it here for your specific year:
http://www.fordproblems.com/tsbs/F-350/2006/

Though 2011 has two listings:
http://www.fordproblems.com/tsbs/F-350/2011/


SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS:DISC:CALIPER

Date Reported  MARCH 01 2011
NHTSA Reference  #10039049
TSB Reference  #AS-21800
Description: FORD: 2010-2011 F250/F350. THE FRONT OR REAR BRAKE CALIPERS
ARE STICKING. INFORMATION ON REPLACING THE CALIPERS. *RM

Repair Information for NHTSA #10039049

SERVICE BRAKES, AIR:DISC:CALIPER

Date Reported  MARCH 01 2011
NHTSA Reference  #10039049
TSB Reference  #AS-21800
Description: FORD: 2010-2011 F250/F350. THE FRONT OR REAR BRAKE CALIPERS
ARE STICKING. INFORMATION ON REPLACING THE CALIPERS. *RM

Repair Information for NHTSA #10039049

--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions

On Mon, Jan 26, 2015 at 8:35 AM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

>  Good link!
> Excellent googleFu...
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
> Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 08:01:02 -0800
>
>
>
> from this document:
>
>
> https://my.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/Brakes/Protech/Training/brake2.p
> df
>
> is true, I think we're all gonna see a lot more of this.
>
> John.
> ____________________________________________________________
> The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
> Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar &#40;Don&#39;t Eat
> This!&#41;
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54c66d0db8b896d0d643ast03vuc
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 26 10:05:32 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 11:52:52 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/26/2015 11:52:57, Serialize complete at
 01/26/2015 11:52:57
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Disc brake piston explosion
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Thank you SO MUCH to everyone (Esp Miq with the TSB links.)

I passed this on to my buddy and he'll have to contact a dealer.  I doubt 
he can get re-embursted for the parts (and my labor) for fixing these. 8>(

Again, this place ROCKS!!!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 26 10:08:56 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2015 11:55:59 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/26/2015 11:56:05, Serialize complete at
 01/26/2015 11:56:05
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pressure washers (electric ones.)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the reply Arvid, but which one were you talking about?

To make things a little easier, here are the ones I'm considering.  Any 
votes (yeah or nay) for any of them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271615464798?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271615583339?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261516202847?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Thanks!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




"Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com> 
01/26/2015 09:52 AM

To
<eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Pressure washers (electric ones.)






I can offer experience based on a sample size of '1'.

I have this one and have not had any problems with it. It is the only 
pressure washer I have and that is 'by design'. I did not want to hassle 
with maintaining yet another internal combustion engine on a tool that I 
use sporadically.

I will admit that there is a 'cord' hassle factor but I have a 25 foot 
large gauge extension cord that I use for the welders and another 25 foot 
smaller but appropriate gauge extension cord, plus 50 feet of pressure 
hose so I can get anywhere around the house that needs attention.

Again, sample size of '1', maybe not the best, or cheapest or ... but it 
has worked for me for many years.

Arvid 
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pressure washers (electric ones.)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I often rely on the reviews on amazon.com, even when I'm not buying there.

This one:  http://amzn.com/B00CPGMUXW
appears to be the highest-rated one on Amazon. Scroll down the page a bit and
you should also see "compare to similar items" section that may be helpful.

Read through the reviews and you'll get a feel for what people like and don't
like.

Lee


On Sun, January 25, 2015 18:25, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I'm in the market for an electric pressure washer.  I have a gas one
> for the times I need the extra power, but I really like the convenience of an
> electric one that I don't have to 'fuss' with each time I use it.
>
> I know quality an performance vary completely in this market.  I've been
> all over the internet searching and I can't find any definitive winners. I'm
> not too worried about price, but I want a really good one (but I'm not going
> for the Snap on versions or anything.  BTW, did you know that Snap On does NOT
> have a lifetime on their PW.  It's a one year only.)  Oh, I have a Snap On
> branded one that stopped working.  8>(
>
> Does anyone have any pointers for good ones, or sites that compare them?
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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2015 10:29:51 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: IMUG Maillist <IMUG-List@media-motion.tv>, Shop Talk List
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT - Exede VOIP
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is anyone in the group using Exede for phone service along with I-Net?
We're using Exede for I-Net at our new place and have been using a Samsung
network extender in an attempt to get decent cell connectivity. That's
working, sort of, but we've got a couple of issues. First, there's some
noticeable latency/delay, I'm sure due to the signal making the round trip
to a sattilitte in geosync orbit. Secondly, using the network extender
functionally runs our phone calls and anything else we do on our phones
through the satt based I-Net which counts against our data allowance.

I not looking for alternatives to the Excede I-Net. It's the best option we
currently have. I'm looking for better phone service. At $20-$30/month
their VOIP option is far cheaper than a land line and I don't mind paying
that, if it works.

Thanks,
Ron
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