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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: shop-talk list <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2014 14:09:57 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Grade 8 UNF threaded rod
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Anybody know of a source for a foot or two of 3/8-UNF grade 8 threaded rod?  I
checked McMaster Carr and all they have in grade 8 is UNC.



Thanks

Marty
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  5 13:39:24 2014
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Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2014 14:20:49 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk list <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grade 8 UNF threaded rod
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Check "Fasnall" , I bought NF Grade 8 rod from them before.

On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 1:09 PM, marty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Anybody know of a source for a foot or two of 3/8-UNF grade 8 threaded
> rod?  I
> checked McMaster Carr and all they have in grade 8 is UNC.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Marty
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2014 22:45:07 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>, shop-talk list
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Grade 8 UNF threaded rod
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---- marty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Anybody know of a source for a foot or two of 3/8-UNF grade 8 threaded rod?  I
> checked McMaster Carr and all they have in grade 8 is UNC.

Seems to be remarkably unpopular, for some reason.  I poked around a bit, found two places that list it, but neither one looks hobbyist friendly.

http://goo.gl/bwrM8E

http://goo.gl/a1jwaf

HTH
Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 09:34:49 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Randall wrote: 

> Seems to be remarkably unpopular, for some reason.  I poked 
> around a bit, found two places that list it, but neither one 
> looks hobbyist friendly.
> 
> http://goo.gl/bwrM8E
> 
> http://goo.gl/a1jwaf

Sorry, the second link is bad.  You'll have to go to
http://www.hbbolt.com/
And search from there.  Or just contact them directly, as there is no price or way to order through the web site:

Harrison & Bonini
1122 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
(between 7th & 8th streets)

Call Mon. through Fri. 7:30 AM - 4:00 PM PST
Toll Free: 866.442.2658
In California: 415.861.8300
Fax: 415.552.0796
Email: paul@hbbolt.com

-- Randall
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 15:37:58 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/08/2014 15:38:01, Serialize complete at
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
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OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.

I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able 
to get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the 
house.)

I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the garage, 
but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and 
second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.

Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I 
don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if 
possible.)

Any ideas?

TIA

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 14:08:56 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 15:42:10 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/08/2014 15:42:10, Serialize complete at
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Since it's been quiet here, I'll add a second questions
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OK, on my plow tractor (a Hustler 275zero turn) I have flood lights to be 
able to plow at night.

Here is the problem, if I run the lights, they work fine at first, then 
they seem to 'short out' the ignition after running a while.  Problem is, 
I can't find the short.

Is this most likely just a shorted out wire, or is it possible that the 
alternator could be causing a problem?  What are some troubleshooting 
steps I can take?

(Darn, I really wanted to fix this in the summer, but now I've already had 
to plow 3 times here in NJ!)

Thanks

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 14:52:12 2014
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
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How much is the extra hardware? I can't think of any solution that's 
easier than writing an extra few $ a month into my check...

What do you do for music out there now? Many things that play music have 
RCA jacks in the back for input from a CD player, etc. You can certainly 
find something at a garage sale/craigslist.

Does your internet come through the dish too? I remember them offering 
that ~10 years ago, in which case their box should have some outputs you 
could tap off and hardwire out to the garage, but how much would burying 
a cable cost?

jim

On 12/8/2014 3:37 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.
>
> I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able
> to get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the
> house.)
>
> I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the garage,
> but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and
> second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.
>
> Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I
> don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if
> possible.)
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 14:52:35 2014
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  I know you didn't ask...but I totally love my Sonos speakers out in 
the garage, best purchase I ever did for the garage.

Replaced a old stereo with Sonos, now I control them via my cell phone 
and can listen to any music I want for free.

     mike

On 12/8/2014 12:37 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.
>
> I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able
> to get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the
> house.)
>
> I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the garage,
> but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and
> second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.
>
> Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I
> don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if
> possible.)
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA
>
> Eric P
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 14:52:57 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OFE9997A32.EFC027E6-ON85257DA8.00722976-85257DA8.007276FB@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 15:35:10 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
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Don't have experience with these as to range, but they should work as long
as the transmitter and receiver are plugged into outlets that are on the
same side of the 220v coming into the house/shop.
http://stereos.about.com/od/reviewsandrecommendations/fr/Powerline.htm

The other way is to use a FM transmitter in the house that can be picked up
in the shop. Don't have any experience there either.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
eric@megageek.com
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2014 2:38 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop

OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.

I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able to
get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the
house.)

I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the garage,
but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and
second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.

Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I
don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if
possible.)

Any ideas?

TIA

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson _______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF95AE87A0.5E00536D-ON85257DA8.0072937A-85257DA8.0072D92D@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 15:37:19 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Since it's been quiet here,
 I'll add a second  questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like the alternator is not able to keep up with the load of ignition
and lights. If it is easy to take the alternator off, take it to a shop for
testing. Check the specs on the lights, add about 10A for ignition and other
options and compare that to the alternator specs. You mght need to go up to
a larger alternator, or dimmer lights.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
eric@megageek.com
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2014 2:42 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Since it's been quiet here, I'll add a second questions

OK, on my plow tractor (a Hustler 275zero turn) I have flood lights to be
able to plow at night.

Here is the problem, if I run the lights, they work fine at first, then they
seem to 'short out' the ignition after running a while.  Problem is, I can't
find the short.

Is this most likely just a shorted out wire, or is it possible that the
alternator could be causing a problem?  What are some troubleshooting steps
I can take?

(Darn, I really wanted to fix this in the summer, but now I've already had
to plow 3 times here in NJ!)

Thanks

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson _______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 15:09:52 2014
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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 15:45:09 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Depending on how you have the DTV box connected to your TV(s) there may be
an available audio line-out on the box or TV. Get a wireless TV
transmitter/receiver setup (*http://tinyurl.com/mmzo7er
<http://tinyurl.com/mmzo7er>*). Then you need a powered speaker in the
garage with line-in. Whatever you do make sure it's returnable if it
doesn't work well.

Ron

On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 2:37 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.
>
> I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able
> to get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the
> house.)
>
> I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the garage,
> but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and
> second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.
>
> Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I
> don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if
> possible.)
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 21:45:52 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 21:45:52 +0000
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Since it's been quiet here,
 I'll add a second  questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---- eric@megageek.com wrote: 
> OK, on my plow tractor (a Hustler 275zero turn) I have flood lights to be 
> able to plow at night.
> 
> Here is the problem, if I run the lights, they work fine at first, then 
> they seem to 'short out' the ignition after running a while.  Problem is, 
> I can't find the short.

Some information about how the lights and ignition are wired would help.  Also, what happens when it "shorts out" ?  Does it start again as soon as you turn off the lights?  Is the battery dead afterwards?

Normally, a short in power wiring (like to the lights) results in wires visibly leaking smoke, so this isn't likely to be a garden-variety short.

But, it might well be that something is overloaded and going open when it gets hot.  Could there be a self-resetting circuit breaker in the circuit?  Do the lights and ignition get power through the same switch?

Likely the easiest route forward is to plow with the lights on in the daytime, and then immediately start troubleshooting when it dies.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 15:10:37 2014
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From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 13:54:16 -0800
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This might work:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.filmon.android.aff38906Te&hl=en

I would point you to the old rabbit tv USB device, but it looks like they
have moved to the 21st century and are striving to collect anonymized (and
real personal!) data for profit and only offer web services based system.

--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions

On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 12:37 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.
>
> I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able
> to get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the
> house.)
>
> I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the garage,
> but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and
> second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.
>
> Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I
> don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if
> possible.)
>
> Any ideas?
>
> TIA
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 21:38:08 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Music in the Shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would simply find a line-out on the receiver and attach an FM stereo
transmitter, like you'd use for the car, or like a Ramsey Electronics
FM-25B. I currently use a little frequency-agile Belkin that I popped open,
disconnected the 3-inch wire it was using as an antenna, and attached in
its place a 30 inch wire. It covers much more than just the homestead now,
though not so much that it would catch anyone's attention.

DirecTV's music is now mostly XM channels - if you have a separate
XM/Sirius satellite subscription, it likely includes internet streaming, so
a computer (or your phone) in the shop could stream the audio without tying
up your single receiver.

-Peter

On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 4:54 PM, Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com> wrote:

> This might work:
>
>
> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.filmon.android.aff38906Te&hl=en
>
> I would point you to the old rabbit tv USB device, but it looks like they
> have moved to the 21st century and are striving to collect anonymized (and
> real personal!) data for profit and only offer web services based system.
>
> --
> __
> Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
> Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions
>
> On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 12:37 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
> > OK, I have an question for those that may know an answer.
> >
> > I currently have Directv.  I love the music channels.  I want to be able
> > to get them in the shop (a detached building about 100' away from the
> > house.)
> >
> > I know I can add another dish and receiver and have service to the
> garage,
> > but that creates two problems.  One, I need to have a TV in there, and
> > second, I incur a monthly fee for the additional receiver.
> >
> > Is there a way to broadcast the signal from one of my TVs out there?  I
> > don't need to change the channels once I'm there (but it would be nice if
> > possible.)
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Eric P
> > "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> > being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> > Waldo Emerson
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 14:03:43 -0600
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.3.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] floor options for new slab
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

So back to the old standby, shop flooring...

  I am building a  welding studio / track car shop behind my 
grrlfriend's house in Austin.  It is 16' x 32', and I just got my slab 
poured on Tuesday.  Had to pump the 12 yards of concrete, and it was a 
lot of work to manhandle the hose, but I think they did a good job. It 
was power-troweled to a smooth surface, and is nice and level.

I had always planned on an epoxy floor, but I have just been told that I 
have two issues: I have to wait 6 months for the slab to fully cure 
before I epoxy it or it will bubble, and second, that I don't want an 
epoxy floor where I plan to weld.  I do tig welding on a welding table, 
but there are falling pieces, sparks, plasma cutting, and so on, and it 
is suggested that this will eat up the epoxy very quickly.

So I saw a concrete paint at a big-box, and my neighbor is having her 
floors stained, so I would welcome yr thoughts and advice on using 
either paint or stain?

I've already tried the plastic matting approach, which I don't want, but 
what about linoleum or vinyl tiles?  How about laminate  - it would look 
good, but will it work ??  I think it would have to be glued down, as it 
doesn't seem like floating it on the pad would work.

Very excited about this project!  Thanks!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 11 13:28:46 2014
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] floor options for new slab
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  Unfortunately, I would go with paint.  I say unfortunately because it 
wont look as good as epoxy or staining or tiles but it will hold up and 
be very easy to repair.

  Of the 2, epoxy or stain, stain is the most weld splatter resistant 
but hardest to repair when the time comes, the repair area will have a 
different color.

  I have Racedeck tiles in my shop and I LOVE them, in my first shop I 
was MIG welding and burning up tiles like crazy (Racedeck will replace 
damaged tiles) they are not in any way weld proof (duh...they are 
plastic).  In my new shop I left a area of bare concrete where I do most 
of my welding and plasma cutting now, I also moved up to TIG so a lot 
less damage.   I put down a welding blanket on the rare occasion that I 
can't move my project to the bare concrete welding area and it works.  A 
bit of a pain but its a hobby not a living so I can take the time to put 
the blanket down.

  I left a 6'x6' area bare concrete in a corner as my welding/metal 
working area, I find most of my stuff I can move there and weld. I did a 
exhaust system for my daughters car a few months ago that was MIG tack 
welded on the lift with Racedeck underneath and a blanket on the floor, 
then removed the exhaust and finished off the welding with TIG, the 
benefit was a much better looking weld on the bench then done under the 
car, it was a pain to work in that 6x6 area with the long exhaust but it 
worked.  90+% of my stuff is small enough to fit on the welding table so 
I like my setup.

  The last option that you did not mention would be porcelain tiles, 
they will hold up to most weld splatter with some discoloration, 
properly put down wont crack when normal things are dropped on them, of 
course they will crack if you drop a head because you know the head will 
land on its corner (and knock off a chunk of the head, big oops) but 
even cracked they look good and they are cheaper than Racedeck assuming 
you are doing the labor. Kind of easily replaced also when you break 
one.  I plan on doing porcelain tiles in my welding area to match as 
best as I can the Racedeck pattern, been planning that for a decade now :)

  Mike


On 12/11/2014 12:03 PM, steve hochschild wrote:
> So back to the old standby, shop flooring...
>
>  I am building a  welding studio / track car shop behind my 
> grrlfriend's house in Austin.  It is 16' x 32', and I just got my slab 
> poured on Tuesday.  Had to pump the 12 yards of concrete, and it was a 
> lot of work to manhandle the hose, but I think they did a good job. It 
> was power-troweled to a smooth surface, and is nice and level.
>
> I had always planned on an epoxy floor, but I have just been told that 
> I have two issues: I have to wait 6 months for the slab to fully cure 
> before I epoxy it or it will bubble, and second, that I don't want an 
> epoxy floor where I plan to weld.  I do tig welding on a welding 
> table, but there are falling pieces, sparks, plasma cutting, and so 
> on, and it is suggested that this will eat up the epoxy very quickly.
>
> So I saw a concrete paint at a big-box, and my neighbor is having her 
> floors stained, so I would welcome yr thoughts and advice on using 
> either paint or stain?
>
> I've already tried the plastic matting approach, which I don't want, 
> but what about linoleum or vinyl tiles?  How about laminate - it would 
> look good, but will it work ??  I think it would have to be glued 
> down, as it doesn't seem like floating it on the pad would work.
>
> Very excited about this project!  Thanks!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 18:04:33 -0500
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop use for no-longer-non-stick pan?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm about to toss this overheated teflon skillet, unless there's a reason to
keep it around?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 12 16:51:15 2014
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,  shop-talk List
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References: <8C2C9D20-8179-4DDC-B18E-7270F669BC7A@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop use for no-longer-non-stick pan?
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1:  Simmer old hinges or similar parts that were painted.  The paint 
will get really soft and come right off.  I keep an old pot for this reason.

2:  Put it on the back of the garage door and use it for target practice 
for spitballs.

Brian

On 12/12/2014 3:04 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I'm about to toss this overheated teflon skillet, unless there's a reason to
> keep it around?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop use for no-longer-non-stick pan?
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On 12/12/2014 6:04 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I'm about to toss this overheated teflon skillet, unless there's a reason to
> keep it around?
Sand burning wood.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <8C2C9D20-8179-4DDC-B18E-7270F669BC7A@groupwbench.org>
 <548B8146.9010604@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 19:15:38 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] r-non-stick pan?question ????
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

if it's a non-stick pan... how do they get the labels in the store to stick 
to them ???

john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
To: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>; "shop-talk List" 
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop use for no-longer-non-stick pan?


> On 12/12/2014 6:04 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> I'm about to toss this overheated teflon skillet, unless there's a reason 
>> to
>> keep it around?
> Sand burning wood.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
> 


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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop use for no-longer-non-stick pan?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a number of old/retired pans and skillets in the shop.  They 
eventually come in handy for something, and if the stack gets too high 
or cumbersome, just recycle the most useless.

One use for an old large-ish saucepan:  cooking my sandblast cabinet 
media over a propane hotplate to drive the moisture out of it. Also a 
soak pan for citric acid solution for de-rusting old hand tools.  And I 
have melted a bunch of lead in old cast iron skillets, but not recently.


On 12/12/2014 3:04 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I'm about to toss this overheated teflon skillet, unless there's a reason to
> keep it around?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 19:41:02 -0600
 FILETIME=[05666700:01D0173F]
Subject: [Shop-talk] who makes a good press?
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 I am looking for a good American made press. I am a clueless but always
learning amateur in my shop and the time has come to get a press.

The boss wants to get this for me for Christmas but I told her I will find out
who makes a good one and then she can get me a gift cert.

Thanks

tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 13 19:05:23 2014
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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 18:06:37 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] who makes a good press?
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Dake is made in the USA; professional grade presses, with a price to match.



On 12/13/2014 5:41 PM, Tim . wrote:
>   I am looking for a good American made press. I am a clueless but always
> learning amateur in my shop and the time has come to get a press.
>
> The boss wants to get this for me for Christmas but I told her I will find out
> who makes a good one and then she can get me a gift cert.
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 13 19:23:37 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 20:26:47 -0600
References: <BLU180-W16469AD43EB98C6F5AE8B6B46E0@phx.gbl>,
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"with a price to match." ....if you can find one I guess.

Am aware of Dake. But one looks at their web site and cannot see/get prices. I
really hate that.



> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 18:06:37 -0800
> From: cavanadd@frontier.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] who makes a good press?
>
> Dake is made in the USA; professional grade presses, with a price to match.
>
>
>
> On 12/13/2014 5:41 PM, Tim . wrote:
> >   I am looking for a good American made press. I am a clueless but always
> > learning amateur in my shop and the time has come to get a press.
> >
> > The boss wants to get this for me for Christmas but I told her I will find
out
> > who makes a good one and then she can get me a gift cert.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > tim
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 13 20:22:31 2014
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] who makes a good press?
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This may take me a while. I remember a few years back looking for a tubing bender to do roll bar
fabrication at Bailey's shop. As I recall one company also had some press frames. If I remember
I'll post.

And on a totally unrelated note I may be posting some hand tools and such for sale as I continue to
slowly work on cleaning up the garage.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 13 20:40:56 2014
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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They probably don't sell direct.

Google "Dake hydraulic press" and then click on the "shopping" tab.


On 12/13/2014 6:26 PM, Tim . wrote:
> "with a price to match." ....if you can find one I guess.
>
> Am aware of Dake. But one looks at their web site and cannot see/get prices. I
> really hate that.
>
>
>
>> Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 18:06:37 -0800
>> From: cavanadd@frontier.com
>> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] who makes a good press?
>>
>> Dake is made in the USA; professional grade presses, with a price to match.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 12/13/2014 5:41 PM, Tim . wrote:
>>>    I am looking for a good American made press. I am a clueless but always
>>> learning amateur in my shop and the time has come to get a press.
>>>
>>> The boss wants to get this for me for Christmas but I told her I will find
> out
>>> who makes a good one and then she can get me a gift cert.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 14 09:22:39 2014
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "Shop Talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W16469AD43EB98C6F5AE8B6B46E0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2014 08:26:15 -0800
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Funny you should ask.  Ibm selling my 15 ton Wagner (US Made)
press.  Itbs used but decent shape.  Moving after 34 years and the
new shop will be much smaller than the one I now have (2k sq ft).
Looking for $200 if you can pick up (Itbs broken apart for easy
transfer).  Now, if only you lived in the northwest part of the NorthWest!
Garage sale next Sunday....

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Tim .
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2014 5:41 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] who makes a good press?

I am looking for a good American made press. I am a clueless but always
learning amateur in my shop and the time has come to get a press.

The boss wants to get this for me for Christmas but I told her I will find
out
who makes a good one and then she can get me a gift cert.

Thanks

tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 09:55:31 2014
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MSC has a good selection; I see a small 10-ton for $300 up to a 150-ton for
$20K. (!)
 see here: http://goo.gl/VQLjae

-Lee

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 12/13/2014 5:41 PM, Tim . wrote:
>   I am looking for a good American made press. I am a clueless but always
> learning amateur in my shop and the time has come to get a press.
>
> The boss wants to get this for me for Christmas but I told her I will find out
> who makes a good one and then she can get me a gift cert.
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 16:13:33 2014
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Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:10:39 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=179

And as I did last month when I offered some Triumph stuff for sale, 10% of the profits will go towards
my feeding the hungry program - http://bradakis.com/fill_pot.html

mjb.
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From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
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To: 'Team shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5491CADF.5080808@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] floor options for new slab
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks for this helpful response.  I think I will end up with the paint,
as you suggest - a big factor is that it going to be the least expensive
approach.

I like your idea of keeping an open space for welding and cutting, and I
had not thought of protecting the floor with a welding blanket.

Can porcelain tiles be laid next to each other, with no grout line? I
had not considered a tile floor as I need to roll casters across it.


On 12/11/2014 2:29 PM, Mike Rambour wrote:
>  Unfortunately, I would go with paint.  I say unfortunately because it
> wont look as good as epoxy or staining or tiles but it will hold up
> and be very easy to repair.
>
>  Of the 2, epoxy or stain, stain is the most weld splatter resistant
> but hardest to repair when the time comes, the repair area will have a
> different color.
>
>  I have Racedeck tiles in my shop and I LOVE them, in my first shop I
> was MIG welding and burning up tiles like crazy (Racedeck will replace
> damaged tiles) they are not in any way weld proof (duh...they are
> plastic).  In my new shop I left a area of bare concrete where I do
> most of my welding and plasma cutting now, I also moved up to TIG so a
> lot less damage.   I put down a welding blanket on the rare occasion
> that I can't move my project to the bare concrete welding area and it
> works.  A bit of a pain but its a hobby not a living so I can take the
> time to put the blanket down.
>
>  I left a 6'x6' area bare concrete in a corner as my welding/metal
> working area, I find most of my stuff I can move there and weld. I did
> a exhaust system for my daughters car a few months ago that was MIG
> tack welded on the lift with Racedeck underneath and a blanket on the
> floor, then removed the exhaust and finished off the welding with TIG,
> the benefit was a much better looking weld on the bench then done
> under the car, it was a pain to work in that 6x6 area with the long
> exhaust but it worked.  90+% of my stuff is small enough to fit on the
> welding table so I like my setup.
>
>  The last option that you did not mention would be porcelain tiles,
> they will hold up to most weld splatter with some discoloration,
> properly put down wont crack when normal things are dropped on them,
> of course they will crack if you drop a head because you know the head
> will land on its corner (and knock off a chunk of the head, big oops)
> but even cracked they look good and they are cheaper than Racedeck
> assuming you are doing the labor. Kind of easily replaced also when
> you break one.  I plan on doing porcelain tiles in my welding area to
> match as best as I can the Racedeck pattern, been planning that for a
> decade now :)
>
>  Mike
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2014 21:57:42 -0800
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
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I'm a high school shop teacher, both wood and metal.  Each shop several 
emergency stop switches connected to a shunt trip which trips the main 
breaker in case of emergency.  In most shops these are big red mushroom 
head switches, but when they built my school nearly 30 years ago they 
ran out of money and so my E-stop switches are center off SPDT toggle 
switches.  Moving them either up or down from center will trip the shunt 
trip.  The problem is most of them have lost their covers, and they are 
easy to bump and trip.  Toggle switch covers are pretty easy to find, 
but so far everything I've seen is for single pole switches and the 
cover forces the switch in the off position (or in the "on" position if 
you install the switch upside down).  Does anyone know of any toggle 
switch covers that just cover the switch and don't force the  switch 
into any position?

Thanks
Dave
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 07:21:49 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 12:57 AM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
> In most shops these are big red mushroom head
> switches, but when they built my school nearly 30 years ago they ran out of
> money and so my E-stop switches are center off SPDT toggle switches.

I can't help you with the toggle switch cover, but...

If this is an emergency stop button, it seems like having to fumble
for a cover and flip it up to toggle a switch is a less than ideal
solution.  A proper mushroom-head E-stop switch is as cheap as $13
from Automation Direct.  I know that schools are chronically
underfunded, but it's not as if you were asking for new equipment,
just new equipment to improve the safety of the students.

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pushbuttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators/22mm_Metal

Just my 2 cents...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 08:16:53 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You might want to use a guard instead of a cover in this application.
You can find them online but that would be silly.  I high school shop
class can make these pretty easy.  Just get some moderately sturdy
aluminum sheet (0.043 or 0.032 should do).  Cut a circle out of it (a
hols saw works great for this application) and then bend it into a U
shape so you have a rounded aluminum guard on either side of the
toggle that will prevent accidental operation but still allow quick
access in an emergency.  End result should mimic this:

http://www.aerospecialties.com/aircraft-lavatory-service-equipment/lavatory-cart-parts-supplies/lav-trailer-parts-tanks/toggle-switch-guard.html



On 12/18/14, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
> I'm a high school shop teacher, both wood and metal.  Each shop several
> emergency stop switches connected to a shunt trip which trips the main
> breaker in case of emergency.  In most shops these are big red mushroom
> head switches, but when they built my school nearly 30 years ago they
> ran out of money and so my E-stop switches are center off SPDT toggle
> switches.  Moving them either up or down from center will trip the shunt
> trip.  The problem is most of them have lost their covers, and they are
> easy to bump and trip.  Toggle switch covers are pretty easy to find,
> but so far everything I've seen is for single pole switches and the
> cover forces the switch in the off position (or in the "on" position if
> you install the switch upside down).  Does anyone know of any toggle
> switch covers that just cover the switch and don't force the  switch
> into any position?
>
> Thanks
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 08:50:09 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Cavanaugh'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 07:52:01 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAbULfgLCdZv82ZSwiNirCNMHAPmgAGQ8wA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
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> you install the switch upside down).  Does anyone know of any toggle 
> switch covers that just cover the switch and don't force the  switch 
> into any position?

Would something like this work?
http://switches-connectors-custom.cwind.com/Asset/GT-4X.pdf

I was going to suggest fabricating a guard, but I see John beat me to it.

-- Randall  
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  I dont think they can be touching each other without grout, I think 
they would crack but I don't know for sure.

     mike

On 12/17/2014 10:30 AM, steve hochschild wrote:
> Thanks for this helpful response.  I think I will end up with the paint,
> as you suggest - a big factor is that it going to be the least expensive
> approach.
>
> I like your idea of keeping an open space for welding and cutting, and I
> had not thought of protecting the floor with a welding blanket.
>
> Can porcelain tiles be laid next to each other, with no grout line? I
> had not considered a tile floor as I need to roll casters across it.
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 11:41:01 -0500
References: <5493BE56.40600@frontier.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have seen flip-up guards (really weather protection) for outdoor power
outlets, but they were horizontal and may have been integral to the outlet
box. Maybe they exist for vertically mounted toggles?

jim

On Dec 19, 2014, at 12:57 AM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:

> I'm a high school shop teacher, both wood and metal.  Each shop several
emergency stop switches connected to a shunt trip which trips the main breaker
in case of emergency.  In most shops these are big red mushroom head switches,
but when they built my school nearly 30 years ago they ran out of money and so
my E-stop switches are center off SPDT toggle switches.  Moving them either up
or down from center will trip the shunt trip.  The problem is most of them
have lost their covers, and they are easy to bump and trip.  Toggle switch
covers are pretty easy to find, but so far everything I've seen is for single
pole switches and the cover forces the switch in the off position (or in the
"on" position if you install the switch upside down).  Does anyone know of any
toggle switch covers that just cover the switch and don't force the  switch
into any position?
>
> Thanks
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 22:31:03 -0800
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Do not add any covers. In fact, take off any covers that you still have in place. If you add guards and someone ever gets hurt from a power tool then there will be the question of whether it would have happened if the guard was not there. I recommend either leaving it the way it is and tolerate the occasional accidental power reset (seriously, how often does this happen?) or buy the right kind of safety switch. McMaster Carr has them for thirty bucks and I'm sure you can find them for less elsewhere.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#6741k41/=v3n3ks


Dave Cavanaugh<cavanadd@frontier.com>  wrote:
To: Shop Talk<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Toggle switch covers
Message-ID:<5493BE56.40600@frontier.com>

I'm a high school shop teacher, both wood and metal.  Each shop several
emergency stop switches connected to a shunt trip which trips the main
breaker in case of emergency.  In most shops these are big red mushroom
head switches, but when they built my school nearly 30 years ago they
ran out of money and so my E-stop switches are center off SPDT toggle
switches.  Moving them either up or down from center will trip the shunt
trip.  The problem is most of them have lost their covers, and they are
easy to bump and trip.  Toggle switch covers are pretty easy to find,
but so far everything I've seen is for single pole switches and the
cover forces the switch in the off position (or in the "on" position if
you install the switch upside down).  Does anyone know of any toggle
switch covers that just cover the switch and don't force the  switch
into any position?

Thanks
Dave

Thank you and

Regards,

Mark Miller
markmiller@threeboysfarm.comMessage: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2014 21:57:42 -0800
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 12:34:33 2014
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Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 19:03:49 +0000 (UTC)
From: watsonm05@comcast.net
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.6_GA_5922)
Thread-Topic: Coolant in Oil - GM 3.1L
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Coolant in Oil - GM 3.1L
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Folks,
B 
Good news - I successfully finished replacing the lower intake manifold gasket
on my '95 Buick Century 3.1L engine.B  So far I've driven it ~40 miles with no
issues.B  Oil change planned @75miles.
B 
Thanks to allB who replied and special thanks to David Scheidt for his very
helpful detailed suggestions and Joe Szwed for his good luck story.
B 
In case anyone is interested here's the break-down:
B 
Minimum parts:
Gasket set (Felpro) B $72
Intake manifold bolts $24
------B Sub-Total ----- : $96
B 
While I'm here I might as well replace these because it'll never be this easy
again parts:
Heater Hoses & clamps:B B B B B B B B B B B B B  B $51
Serp belt & plugs/wires:B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B  $56
PCV
Valve:B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B
 B B  $4
Antifreeze & lots of oil & 2 filters:B $70
-----------B Sub-Total -------------- :B  $180
B 
-----------B Grand-Total -------------- : $275 (might not add up - I rounded
sloppily)
B 
>From trolling around the web to get an idea of what it would have cost for
this job I've found from $700 - $1200.B  Looks like I save at least $500 by
doing it myself and the satisfaction of a job well done.B  With luck I hope to
get many more years & miles out of her.B  I'll probably be driving this to
work only which is ~7k miles/year.B  If I can get 10 more years (70k miles)
out of it I might be able to retire without having to replace it.
B 
Next project: put a new timing belt on my daughter's '04 Chevy Aveo - this
isB her big Christmas gift this year.B  The reality of car ownership is
certainly teaching her good life lessons.
B 
Again, thanks to all.
B 
Mark Watson
1956 Daimler (long term resto)
1965 Ford Falcon (getting back on road after trans replacement)
various transportation pods (including this one ;-)
B 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 15:59:32 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 17:45:27 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/22/2014 17:45:48, Serialize complete at
 12/22/2014 17:45:48
Subject: [Shop-talk] Re-enameling a cast iron sink
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know if we talked about this here, ever, so here goes...

I obtained a beautiful old double kitchen sink (white enameled, cast 
iron.)

The coating is worn after decades of use.

Is there a 'DIY' method of recoating this?  Would powder coating it work?

If not, does anyone know how to find a reputable service for recoating 
them?

OB SHOP CONTENT- If I get this one refinished and installed in the 
kitchen, I can move the current DEEP double sink to the garage!

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 16:47:35 2014
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 18:49:43 -0500
References: <OF14C8754F.3A89B25E-ON85257DB6.007CA670-85257DB7.007E5291@mail.megageek.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Re-enameling a cast iron sink
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I know people have tried to re-do their claw foot tubs at home, with mediocre
results. But if the sink is portable, you may have better luck.

jim

On Dec 22, 2014, at 5:45 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> I don't know if we talked about this here, ever, so here goes...
>
> I obtained a beautiful old double kitchen sink (white enameled, cast
> iron.)
>
> The coating is worn after decades of use.
>
> Is there a 'DIY' method of recoating this?  Would powder coating it work?
>
> If not, does anyone know how to find a reputable service for recoating
> them?
>
> OB SHOP CONTENT- If I get this one refinished and installed in the
> kitchen, I can move the current DEEP double sink to the garage!
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 17:48:26 2014
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Re-enameling a cast iron sink
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Google "re-enamel bathtub" or "re-enamel sink".  Looks like there are 
plenty of DIY kits and professional companies that do this.  Also saw many 
discussions on various websites talking about the process.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       497,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 13:12:06 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

2008 Suburban.... noticed lately that when I apply brakes I feel a vibration
or pulse like one of the rotors might be warped.  Rotated tires this week and
used a dial indicator to check for run out.  The right side was less than .001
the left side varied from .001 to .005.   Can 5 thousands show up in the pedal
??  can a shop turn that much out ??   the rotors have never been trued at
all...

thanks
John


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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>, "shop-talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4B9F2DF3C94A4E2EA091E985CEBB83A4@john5043a2d406>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 15:29:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
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Try re-rotating the tires? Check that the lugs are tightened evenly?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 

> 2008 Suburban.... noticed lately that when I apply brakes I feel a 
> vibration
> or pulse like one of the rotors might be warped.  Rotated tires this week 
> and
> used a dial indicator to check for run out.  The right side was less than 
> .001
> the left side varied from .001 to .005.   Can 5 thousands show up in the 
> pedal
> ??  can a shop turn that much out ??   the rotors have never been trued at
> all...
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4B9F2DF3C94A4E2EA091E985CEBB83A4@john5043a2d406>
 <87813B6BF1384B45829D6458BDAC184A@EricJRussellPC>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 14:37:28 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric... the vibration was there BEFORE and after the rotate... all lugs 
torqued to 140#
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>; "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2014 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes


> Try re-rotating the tires? Check that the lugs are tightened evenly?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>
>> 2008 Suburban.... noticed lately that when I apply brakes I feel a 
>> vibration
>> or pulse like one of the rotors might be warped.  Rotated tires this week 
>> and
>> used a dial indicator to check for run out.  The right side was less than 
>> .001
>> the left side varied from .001 to .005.   Can 5 thousands show up in the 
>> pedal
>> ??  can a shop turn that much out ??   the rotors have never been trued 
>> at
>> all...
> 


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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Dwade Reinsch" <dreinsch@swbell.net>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4B9F2DF3C94A4E2EA091E985CEBB83A4@john5043a2d406>
 <87813B6BF1384B45829D6458BDAC184A@EricJRussellPC>
 <D0614518A858459A938850C01A9899D5@john5043a2d406>
 <1419627565.4989.YahooMailNeo@web184305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 15:11:20 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

brakes were done (front and rear) less than one year ago (less than 15K on
them) and rotors not turned... pads show plenty of material...
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dwade Reinsch
  To: John Niolon ; Eric J Russell ; shop-talk
  Sent: Friday, December 26, 2014 2:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes


  Most likely time for brake job and new rotors.



  On Friday, December 26, 2014 2:46 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:




  Eric... the vibration was there BEFORE and after the rotate... all lugs
  torqued to 140#
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
  To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>; "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
  Sent: Friday, December 26, 2014 2:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes


  > Try re-rotating the tires? Check that the lugs are tightened evenly?
  >
  > Eric Russell
  > Mebane, NC
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  >
  >> 2008 Suburban.... noticed lately that when I apply brakes I feel a
  >> vibration
  >> or pulse like one of the rotors might be warped.  Rotated tires this
week
  >> and
  >> used a dial indicator to check for run out.  The right side was less
than
  >> .001
  >> the left side varied from .001 to .005.  Can 5 thousands show up in the
  >> pedal
  >> ??  can a shop turn that much out ??  the rotors have never been trued
  >> at
  >> all...
  >


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Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 13:30:40 -0800
From: Dwade Reinsch <dreinsch@swbell.net>
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

the wobble will be only in the rotors.  Amount of material on pads has nothing to do with wobble.  Several years ago I stopped trying to have them turned when I was doing a brake job and just always bought new.  Heat and cooling can warp rotors.  Have you driven through cold water after using brake hard and having them heated up?  

Could be bent wheel.  Have you banged the curb really hard lately?  Or bad tire, with belt slightly out of line, but if you rotated tires and no change, it's probably not a tire.  If you have a bent wheel, that should have changed the wobble, when you rotated tires, so it's probably not that. 


On Friday, December 26, 2014 3:11 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
  


brakes were done (front and rear) less than one year ago
(less than 15K on them) and rotors not turned... pads show plenty of
material... 
----- Original Message -----  
>From: Dwade  Reinsch  
>To: John Niolon ; Eric J Russell ; shop-talk  
>Sent: Friday, December 26, 2014 2:59 PM 
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes 
>
> 
>Most likely time for brake job and new rotors. 
>
>
> 
>On Friday, December 26, 2014 2:46 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>Eric... the vibration was there BEFORE and after the rotate... all lugs 
>torqued to 140#
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
>To:
  "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>; "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>Sent:
  Friday, December 26, 2014 2:29 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in
  brakes
>
>
>> Try re-rotating the tires? Check that the lugs are
  tightened evenly?
>>
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane,
  NC
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>
>>> 2008
  Suburban.... noticed lately that when I apply brakes I feel a 
>>>
  vibration
>>> or pulse like one of the rotors might be warped. 
  Rotated tires this week 
>>> and
>>> used a dial indicator to
  check for run out.  The right side was less than 
>>>
  .001
>>> the left side varied from .001 to .005.  Can 5 thousands
  show up in the 
>>> pedal
>>> ??  can a shop turn that
  much out ??  the rotors have never been trued 
>>> at
>>>
  all...
>> 
>
>
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>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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>
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> 



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 15:36:42 2014
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <4B9F2DF3C94A4E2EA091E985CEBB83A4@john5043a2d406>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/26/2014 11:12 AM, John Niolon wrote:
> 2008 Suburban.... noticed lately that when I apply brakes I feel a vibration
> or pulse like one of the rotors might be warped.	

If it were an E39 BMW I'd say your lower control arm inner bushings were 
shot (forward arm in the 6cyl cars, rear arm in the 8cyl cars). 
Classic behavior in that vehicle.

2008 Suburbans I don't know, my 2500 is a 2003.

But if the obvious stuff - brake rotor, wheel bearing, steering tie-rod 
end, etc - doesn't show anything, you need to go off to gm-trucks.com or 
one of the other product-specific sites and look for something specific 
to that platform.

John.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 20:40:49 -0600
Thread-Index: AdAhfi4tZrbF47weSi6Em1ioyEXuBQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Another possibility is pad material building up unevenly on rotors.  A set
of EBC Green Stuff pads on a Mustang years ago drove me crazy.  They'd pulse
and wobble, then later be fine.  Turns out I wasn't the only one having that
problem.

Those pads also could fade in one stop from 60 MPH.  A set of OEM pads
smoothed everything out for the rest of the years we had the car.
_______________________________________________

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To: "'John Niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 20:47:34 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAhRPjV6qgRyYciQPCaB6A3lTGG4gASYOzg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] wobble in brakes
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>  Can 5 thousands show up in the pedal ??

.005" is huge, if the other side doesn't match it (in other words, thickness variation).  Typical maximum spec is under .001".

However, if the thickness is constant, then .005" shouldn't cause too much of a problem.  The caliper just tracks the wobble without
pulsing the pedal.

>  can a shop turn that much out ??  

Depends on how badly worn the rotor is.  Most cars these days have rotors so thin that they can almost never be turned (once they
have been used) without going below the wear limit.  But I have no idea if that would apply to a Suburban or not.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 22:40:52 2014
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Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 21:37:27 -0800
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
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Drop lights.

You know, basic design hasn't changed in forty years, since the 
rubber-covered wire cages gave way to stampings (or plastic moldings on 
the cheap ones.

Nasty arm-burning stampings.   If you use household light bulbs they 
last about two days, or you can go find the plastic-covered rugged-use 
bulbs.

All this is almost enough to make you go shopping for one of those 
flourescent things.  Or at least it was.

Time to resurrect the old drop lights: Cree 60-watt LED bulbs from Home 
Depot, $7.

Put a few in around the house and they worked out well.  Tried a couple 
in the drop lights, so far so good, the light is good and they've taken 
a couple drops with no drama.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 27 02:35:02 2014
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From: gordon bird <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: =?utf-8?Q?John_Miller?= <jem@milleredp.com>, =?utf-8?Q?shop_talk?=
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 09:03:39 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?q?Drop_lights?=
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibll second the LEDs.  In the past, my garage door opener would vibrate and even the rough service incandescent bulb would only last a few months.  Itbs been nearly 2 years now that I have had the Cree LED installedb&

Ibve been replacing with LEDs when required ever since.


Gordie Bird






From: John Miller
Sent: bSaturdayb, bDecemberb b27b, b2014 b1b:b01b bAM
To: shop talk





Drop lights.

You know, basic design hasn't changed in forty years, since the 
rubber-covered wire cages gave way to stampings (or plastic moldings on 
the cheap ones.

Nasty arm-burning stampings.   If you use household light bulbs they 
last about two days, or you can go find the plastic-covered rugged-use 
bulbs.

All this is almost enough to make you go shopping for one of those 
flourescent things.  Or at least it was.

Time to resurrect the old drop lights: Cree 60-watt LED bulbs from Home 
Depot, $7.

Put a few in around the house and they worked out well.  Tried a couple 
in the drop lights, so far so good, the light is good and they've taken 
a couple drops with no drama.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 27 10:14:29 2014
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Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 09:10:58 -0800
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <COL401-EAS362464905A4A2FBF823DCA89E530@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 12/27/2014 1:03 AM, gordon bird wrote:
> Ibll second the LEDs.  In the past, my garage door opener would vibrate
> and even the rough service incandescent bulb would only last a few
> months.  Itbs been nearly 2 years now that I have had the Cree LED
> installedb&

Prices on the LED stuff have come down a lot, and the choice is better. 
  I've started putting LEDs in some of the more heavily-used lights 
around our house.

Our house has something like 85 low-voltage MR16 fixtures, mostly 
enclosed insulation-contact cans, and aside from being painfully 
expensive most of the MR16 replacement LEDs on the market for the past 
few years (notably Philips) have carried warnings about use in enclosed 
fixtures.  Home Depot now has a house-brand 'Ecosmart' at $15 each that 
claims compatibility with enclosed IC fixtures, I swapped out the 
halogens in my office (where I really needed more light anyway) and 
they're working well (it's only been 2 months, though.)

The clear Philips bulbs with the crown-shaped refractor are working well 
in our outside fixtures, and the cheaper 40W Cree units in the entryway 
ceiling fixture.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 27 14:18:48 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <COL401-EAS362464905A4A2FBF823DCA89E530@phx.gbl>
 <549EE822.6070009@milleredp.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 13:18:03 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAh+RlfXYlGDTAKQT+RmZzcwIizigAIMieQ
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
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Costco often had nice LED sales in conjunction with the local utilities,
just as they did with CFL's.  LED's are still expensive though.

I've been replacing the high use and "better when the lighting comes up
quicker" locations like over stairs.  It took a while for the "spot"
versions to come in and drop down in price, but now they are almost as
prevalent as the "flood" lamps. I have some spot high hat lamps over
critical kitchen areas and spots work much better, especially for these
aging eyes.

I've been using up the old incandescent lamps in my drop light for the past
few years.  I'd feel guilty about just throwing them away. . . . .

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Miller
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2014 9:11 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights

On 12/27/2014 1:03 AM, gordon bird wrote:
> Ibll second the LEDs.  In the past, my garage door opener would vibrate
> and even the rough service incandescent bulb would only last a few
> months.  Itbs been nearly 2 years now that I have had the Cree LED
> installedb&

Prices on the LED stuff have come down a lot, and the choice is better.
  I've started putting LEDs in some of the more heavily-used lights
around our house.

Our house has something like 85 low-voltage MR16 fixtures, mostly
enclosed insulation-contact cans, and aside from being painfully
expensive most of the MR16 replacement LEDs on the market for the past
few years (notably Philips) have carried warnings about use in enclosed
fixtures.  Home Depot now has a house-brand 'Ecosmart' at $15 each that
claims compatibility with enclosed IC fixtures, I swapped out the
halogens in my office (where I really needed more light anyway) and
they're working well (it's only been 2 months, though.)

The clear Philips bulbs with the crown-shaped refractor are working well
in our outside fixtures, and the cheaper 40W Cree units in the entryway
ceiling fixture.

John.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 09:13:23 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] replacement windows
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

need to replace some 20+ year old wooden windows in shop and house...  any
recommendations or warnings about the manufacturers/installers...   I'm tired
of painting windows !!!

john



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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 11:18:04 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Strengthening plastic engine parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I recently broke a plastic cruise control pulley on my 1996 Accord while
replacing the starter.  Apparently, these parts break frequently on old Hondas
because the plastic gets baked by the engine over the years and becomes quite
brittle.  Honda doesnt sell the pulley separately and requires you to buy an
entire throttle body assembly to get the pulley, so I bought a used one
online.  The pulley is in good condition, but I am sure it is just as brittle
as my old one was.  While it will probably be fine unless I get careless
again, I was thinking that it would be worth trying to strengthen/rejuvenate
it before I put it on the car.  It is small and would be easy to soak in
something or to just brush or spray something on.  Ive tried Googling the
topic but come up empty-handed.  Does anyone know anything I can to do give
this a little extra life before putting it on the car?  The car sees only
limited use, but it is very handy to have around.
Thanks.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 10:36:55 2014
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References: <DCA3F512-A270-4490-8E07-85209E661ED0@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 12:40:51 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Strengthening plastic engine parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe it would be a good idea to make a 3-d model of the pulley before it
is installed.  Then you could use a 3-d printer to make a few spares. I
think there are places that you can upload the model to, and they will
print it and send the items to you.

Doug
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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 14:24:10 -0500
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/27/2014 12:37 AM, John Miller wrote:
>
>
> Time to resurrect the old drop lights: Cree 60-watt LED bulbs from 
> Home Depot, $7.
I have the newer plastic 60-watt equivalent Cree LED.  Highly 
recommend.  It durable plastic and lighter than glass LED bulbs.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 12:33:19 2014
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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 14:33:14 -0500
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

I looked at LED bulbs as a result of this discussion.  Looks like 100-watt
equivalents are about twice the cost of 60-watt... Is that right?  How come?

Mark

On Mon, Dec 29, 2014 at 2:24 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
wrote:

> On 12/27/2014 12:37 AM, John Miller wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Time to resurrect the old drop lights: Cree 60-watt LED bulbs from Home
>> Depot, $7.
>>
> I have the newer plastic 60-watt equivalent Cree LED.  Highly recommend.
> It durable plastic and lighter than glass LED bulbs.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@
> maracing.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 14:52:10 2014
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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 16:55:30 -0500
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The shop content for this is that I presently have TVs in my work space.

My cable provider has announced the move to "all digital" requiring one 
of their boxes at each TV, regardless of the TV's digital cable 
readiness.  I have coax to multiple locations in my house and shop and 
don't want to rent ANY boxes from them, let alone the seven I would need 
for this, plus in at least one location with a 7" screen, a corner in 
our kitchen, the box will be bigger than the digital TV.  Are there any 
alternatives?  Is there a digital equivalent to the old analog block 
converters?  Or will my digital TVs actually still see the digital 
signals, just not at the same place on the "dial."
-- 
Low Tech Jim

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf]
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 15:06:18 2014
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 22:06:27 GMT
To: james.f.juhas@snet.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 I think most of them are doing it - it is all about revenue enhancement!The
innovative public was coming up with too many ways to hold costs down like off
line DVRs such as silicon dust, etc.Their solution is to encrypt it all and
require boxes. Best alternative is a digital antenna so you can at least get
the local digital broadcast signals.There are some very cheap interior ones
~$10 that will pull in only strong signals.

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 16:55:30 -0500

The shop content for this is that I presently have TVs in my work space.

My cable provider has announced the move to "all digital" requiring one
of their boxes at each TV, regardless of the TV's digital cable
readiness.  I have coax to multiple locations in my house and shop and
don't want to rent ANY boxes from them, let alone the seven I would need
for this, plus in at least one location with a 7" screen, a corner in
our kitchen, the box will be bigger than the digital TV.  Are there any
alternatives?  Is there a digital equivalent to the old analog block
converters?  Or will my digital TVs actually still see the digital
signals, just not at the same place on the "dial."
--
Low Tech Jim

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
james_f_juhas.vcf]
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
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Anywhere it rains it can flood. Learn your risk. Get flood insurance.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 15:08:47 2014
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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 17:11:55 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the same issue several years ago when our area switched.  I
initially went to satellite (Dish) their boxes had  HD out and, on a
separate tuner, a analog RF signal that could be sen out over the
existing coax.  I plugged that into the houses old coax network and
could tune the box from any room with their RF remotes.  It worked
pretty good, but non-HD only.

I've since switched back to cable, only because I wanted faster
internet than DSL (AT&T) could provide.  I do a similar thing with
Comcast's "cheap" tuner.  They're $2.99 a month and have a HD and a RF
output from the same tuner.  The HD goes to the TV by the box and the
RF goes to the old cable wiring.  I can feed multiple TVs this way as
long as I don't care about HD.

Ben.......

On Mon, Dec 29, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:
> The shop content for this is that I presently have TVs in my work space.
>
> My cable provider has announced the move to "all digital" requiring one
> of their boxes at each TV, regardless of the TV's digital cable
> readiness.  I have coax to multiple locations in my house and shop and
> don't want to rent ANY boxes from them, let alone the seven I would need
> for this, plus in at least one location with a 7" screen, a corner in
> our kitchen, the box will be bigger than the digital TV.  Are there any
> alternatives?  Is there a digital equivalent to the old analog block
> converters?  Or will my digital TVs actually still see the digital
> signals, just not at the same place on the "dial."
> --
> Low Tech Jim
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf]
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 15:18:56 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Jim Juhas'" <james.f.juhas@snet.net>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54A1CDD2.60105@snet.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 16:22:04 -0600
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Thread-Index: AdAjslKPbQVC/sgKSfm5rdlhKOIaMQAAqCgw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
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Jim,

Several issues here.

If you want to be able to watch different cable shows on each set then you
will need one box per set. 

If you are close enough to broadcast TV stations, and you only want to watch
shows from your local stations, then you don't need a box for those sets,
but you may need an outside antenna.

If you want to experiment, and one of your friends/neighbors already have
the new all digital service, take one of your sets over and try it, it can't
hurt anything.

I haven't heard of anything like a block converter for digital.

Who is your provider and where are you located?

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Juhas
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2014 3:56 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] TV converter box

The shop content for this is that I presently have TVs in my work space.

My cable provider has announced the move to "all digital" requiring one of
their boxes at each TV, regardless of the TV's digital cable readiness.  I
have coax to multiple locations in my house and shop and don't want to rent
ANY boxes from them, let alone the seven I would need for this, plus in at
least one location with a 7" screen, a corner in our kitchen, the box will
be bigger than the digital TV.  Are there any alternatives?  Is there a
digital equivalent to the old analog block converters?  Or will my digital
TVs actually still see the digital signals, just not at the same place on
the "dial."
--
Low Tech Jim

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
james_f_juhas.vcf] _______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 16:22:57 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Mon, Dec 29, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com> wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I looked at LED bulbs as a result of this discussion.  Looks like 100-watt
> equivalents are about twice the cost of 60-watt... Is that right?  How come?
>

they use different leds, which cost more.  They could use more of the
same one, which would require a bigger package, but would also cost
more.  There's also a "they're new" factor, of course.  I'm not sure
what the real cost difference is.

I'm not a big fan of the currently available models, because the color
rendering is awful.  I've got a few PAR replacements that are better
than the A shape bulbs,


Oh, another nice thing about incandescent replacements: The wattage
limits on light fixtures are based on heat, so you can use a higher
output bulb, if it will fit.  My parent's garage is light by a pair of
bare bulbs, in lamp holders limited to 100W.  I replaced the bulbs
with a pair of 75W cfls (actual power consumption, not equivalent),
which gets them about three times the light at 2/3 the electricity
usage.





-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 15:33:41 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 14:33:14 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
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> I looked at LED bulbs as a result of this discussion.  Looks 
> like 100-watt
> equivalents are about twice the cost of 60-watt... Is that 
> right?  How come?

Well, for one thing, they have about twice the number of LEDs (which is the expensive bit), and about twice the power supply.  It's
not like an incandescent bulb, where you just make the wire a little thicker.

The heat sink design gets tougher too.  Have to dissipate almost twice as much heat; but the 60 watt versions already run at the
edge of too hot.

FWIW, they already make drop lights that use LEDs directly, instead of the screw-in replacements.  I like mine better, because the
LEDs are spread out enough that it doesn't hurt so much when the light rolls around or whatever and I have to look directly into it.

But for most situations, I much prefer my LED "head lights".  No cord, and it always points where I'm looking (at least a lot better
than a drop light does).
http://www.energizer.com/flashlights-lighting/headlight/Pages/6-led-headlight.aspx


-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 15:34:03 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 14:37:28 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drop lights
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> I'm not a big fan of the currently available models, because the color
> rendering is awful.

It varies a lot, though.  Cree has some designs that use different LEDs and a special power supply to actively model sunlight
(meaning they actually compensate as the LEDs age), which I've heard work very well.

Probably not in the $6 version yet, though <G>

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 29 15:48:28 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 14:51:32 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAjtEJ4w0OBvFt0R32CbcYTIIsLOAABCVQg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
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> Best alternative is a digital antenna so you 
> can at least get
> the local digital broadcast signals.There are some very cheap 
> interior ones
> ~$10 that will pull in only strong signals.

Just to clarify a little, there is nothing "digital" about the antenna.  It's the same frequency band, so the old "analog" antennas
will work just fine.  Even "rabbit ears" will do, you just might need a balun to convert balanced 300 ohm to 75 ohm coax since most
TV sets don't seem to have 300 ohm inputs any more.

And FWIW, I just picked up a cheap directional outdoor antenna for $25; including rotator and amplifier.  No idea how long it will
last (probably not very), but it's cheap enough to experiment with.  SWMBO wants a channel that is broadcast from roughly 75 miles
away, and this antenna pulled it in clearly (during preliminary testing in the living room).  With any luck, it isn't so directional
that it has to be turned to get the other local channels (which are off in a different direction, of course); but I haven't managed
to try that yet.  Gonna try putting an amplifier on the omni-directional antenna first and see how that works out.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 21:27:25 -0500
References: <DCA3F512-A270-4490-8E07-85209E661ED0@gmail.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Strengthening plastic engine parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks guys.  The pulley is a mix of plastic and molded-in metal, so I dont
think a 3D printer will do the trick, but it is an interesting idea.  The used
throttle body only cost me $30, so Ill probably just install the new pulley
and try to be more careful in the future.

Jim

On Dec 29, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark <eltonclark@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I once had a 83 Sentra wagon for a shop car; cold air & 24 mpg in town a
delight until the "Japanese plastic rot" hit.  Within one year, the white
plastic in the dome light housing, the turn signal switch and all four door
latches turned to "chalk" and failed.  Sheeeeeesh.
>
> On Mon, Dec 29, 2014 at 11:40 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
> Maybe it would be a good idea to make a 3-d model of the pulley before it
> is installed.  Then you could use a 3-d printer to make a few spares. I
> think there are places that you can upload the model to, and they will
> print it and send the items to you.
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
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Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] replacement windows
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I replaced every window in my house this year (>35 of them) and of course did
a fair bit of research before deciding. Like yours, they were 20+ years old,
wooden, single-pane and very tired.

We went with Simonton argon-filled (double-pane, low-e) vinyl windows. Wow,
they are *really* nice. The vertical ones are all double-hung, and they can be
released to pivot inward for cleaning the outside surface without going
outside (esp. nice for the upstairs windows). So, yeah, it was a major
investment, but it made an amazing difference in the heating/cooling
efficiency (esp. cooling here in the Houston area).

For installers, just ask around and get references from your
friends/neighbors. My neighborhood has it's own email list and we all help
each other out with contractors/painters/roofers/etc. Labor is cheap here but
we figured about $500/window.

 - Lee

On Mon, December 29, 2014 09:13, John Niolon wrote:
> need to replace some 20+ year old wooden windows in shop and house...  any
> recommendations or warnings about the manufacturers/installers...   I'm tired
>  of painting windows !!!
>
> john
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 20:11:21 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>,  Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54A1CDD2.60105@snet.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TV converter box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I second the vote for over the air if that is an option where you are.  
I had basic rabbit ears, but upgraded because I was tired of loosing ABC 
and Fox during recordings.  I now have an outdoor antenna and amplified 
splitter that serves 3 TVs and my computer.  I have a separate amplified 
indoor antenna that serves our living room TV.  Two of the TVs are old 
analog with a converter (the kind that was "free" with the coupon when 
analog broadcasts were going away). If you have ok reception of enough 
channels, this may be good enough for some of your locations.  I would 
expect you could pick up one of the digital converters pretty cheap from 
someone that has since upgraded to a newer TV or get a new one for under 
$30.  I'm fortunate to be in the Los Angeles area and while I'm 36 miles 
from the major transmitters, get over 100 channels (includes 
sub-channels).  I mostly get another channel at 60 miles in San 
Bernardino and surprisingly pick up some San Diego TV in on a side-lobe 
(90 degrees off of where the antenna is aiming).

If you are not aware, you can go to http://www.antennaweb.org/ and put 
in your zipcode to see what is available over the air.  The better your 
antenna and location, the better your results.

Another option is to get a box like a Roku (mentioned as a widely known 
model, but I have no specific experience with it).  I have a 4 year old 
Sony Media Player.  It plugs into the home network or can connect 
wireless and pulls content from my PC or the internet and outputs to the 
TV either as RF or A/V.  The newer ones have HDMI and may drop the older 
connections, so just make sure it can output in a format you have 
available on the TV.  My Sony box is about the size of a paperback, but 
I think the newer devices are like a deck of playing cards.  These 
devices can also stream over the internet from free sources or connect 
to Netflix and pay services for more content.

My Windows 7 PC has a dual tuner card and records my TV for me - think 
Tivo without file protections or restrictions.  With kids, I seldom get 
to actually watch live TV, so this works out great.  I use Windows Media 
Center, so it is all free and I can watch on any computer or on the 
living room TV with the box.

I also have a plug-in for Firefox called Download Helper that can save 
video from places like YouTube.  I have DSL, so can't always stream good 
content, so I just download it and watch the file on my computer or the 
living room TV with the media player.  There are some great 
documentaries and programs that you can grab then watch when you want.

With all this, you should be able to have things to watch on at least 
some of the TVs without a cable box.

Good luck,

Brian


On 12/29/2014 1:55 PM, Jim Juhas wrote:
> The shop content for this is that I presently have TVs in my work space.
>
> My cable provider has announced the move to "all digital" requiring one
> of their boxes at each TV, regardless of the TV's digital cable
> readiness.  I have coax to multiple locations in my house and shop and
> don't want to rent ANY boxes from them, let alone the seven I would need
> for this, plus in at least one location with a 7" screen, a corner in
> our kitchen, the box will be bigger than the digital TV.  Are there any
> alternatives?  Is there a digital equivalent to the old analog block
> converters?  Or will my digital TVs actually still see the digital
> signals, just not at the same place on the "dial."
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2014 00:32:07 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BE977C2D0A7B4B0BA7205898F281B2A1@john5043a2d406>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] replacement windows
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not everyone knows this, but the term "replacement windows" has a 
particular meaning.  Not everyone who replaces windows uses 
replacement windows.  Replacement windows are designed to be 
installed inside the opening of the existing window.  The existing 
trim, sills and sashes are left in place.  The advantage of this is 
that a lot less work is involved.  Interior trim and exterior siding 
are not disturbed.  The disadvantage is that the opening part of the 
window is now smaller, because the whole assembly fits inside the 
previous opening.  This is easier to understand when looking at 
them.  Anyway, if you know all of this, I am sorry for making 
you  read through the refresher course.  I once got a free window air 
conditioner because someone installed replacement windows, and it no 
longer fit in the opening.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net


At 10:13 AM 12/29/2014, John Niolon wrote:
>need to replace some 20+ year old wooden windows in shop and house...  any
>recommendations or warnings about the manufacturers/installers...   I'm tired
>of painting windows !!!
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