Subject: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator

From: Robert nogueira <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 20:33:31 -0500

I have a brass radiator on which I need to relocate the input outlet.  I'm
hoping to do it without disturbing the tank to core seam.
I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.
My plan is to place a damp cloth over the tank to core soldered seam and to
use a high heat       (oxygen and Mapp gas) torch so the new inlet and it's
seam to the tank heat up quickly before the heat can travel to the seams that
I want to remain untouched. The new inlet will be located about an inch from
the tank to core seam.
I'll also be using a infrared thermometer to monitor the tank to core seam.
Anyone have other  suggestions as to how go about this or problems with my
plan.

Note the current input is soldered to the tank from the outside only  and the
radiator will be used with a 4 or 7 lbs cap at most.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 22:36:01 -0700

> I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.

I'm reasonably adept at soldering; no problem with electrical or copper plumbing and I've even had some success with body work.

But my first thought would be to take it to the local radiator shop and let them deal with it.  They've got the skills and the tools
(including the acid dip tank); and so far at least, the charge has been less than I expected.

Worth asking, anyway.

BTW, true MAPP gas is no longer available in the US.  What they are selling is a substitute.  To me at least, it doesn't seem to
work as well.

Randall

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From: "Pat Horne" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 08:31:16 -0500

Depending on how close you will be soldering to a seam, you may be able to
use some heat absorbing putty to keep the heat from unsoldering the seam.
Mist necks that I've seen installed have a flange formed from the tank to
give some physical support for the neck, rather than just cutting a hold and
soldering to the cut edge of the tank.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of
Robert nogueira
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 8:34 PM
To: Shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator

I have a brass radiator on which I need to relocate the input outlet.  I'm
hoping to do it without disturbing the tank to core seam.
I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.
My plan is to place a damp cloth over the tank to core soldered seam and to
use a high heat       (oxygen and Mapp gas) torch so the new inlet and it's
seam to the tank heat up quickly before the heat can travel to the seams
that I want to remain untouched. The new inlet will be located about an inch
from the tank to core seam.
I'll also be using a infrared thermometer to monitor the tank to core seam.
Anyone have other  suggestions as to how go about this or problems with my
plan.

Note the current input is soldered to the tank from the outside only  and
the radiator will be used with a 4 or 7 lbs cap at most.
Thanks for any suggestions.
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 09:11:19 -0500

If this is a repeat, I apologize.  My Shop Talk replies bounce when I
accidentally reply to more than just the list, which I just did.

There's a plumbing product called Cool Gel that absolutely works as
advertised:
http://www.laco.com/cool-gel-/

The stuff is uncanny.  You have to be careful not to get the material too
close to where you want to solder because it's so effective.  If it gets
closer than a couple of inches to a fitting on pipe, that fitting becomes
almost impossible to solder with a normal MAPP torch.

Being intended for use on copper plumbing pipe, which is much thicker and
conducts heat so much better, it should work wonderfully on a thin brass
radiator tank.  I'd brush it rather than spray, for accuracy.

As far as using high heat to solder faster, take it easy.  Too much heat
will just burn the solder and ruin your joint.  Radiator stuff is thin and
heats easily.  Propane without oxygen is very adequate.  MAPP or fake MAPP
with oxygen is like oxyacetylene - way too much for what you're doing.

And I'd echo Randall's suggestion of taking it to a GOOD radiator shop.  If
they're actually good, it'll be a cheap and strong repair.

Karl

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Pat
Horne
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 8:31 AM
To: 'Robert nogueira'; 'Shop-talk'
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----

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From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:02:13 +0000

> soldering to the cut edge of the tank.

One way to add some physical support is to form some soft 1/8" copper tubing to lay in the joint, then solder it to both tank and neck.

Not the best photo, but you can almost see what my radiator shop did for me in this shot:
http://goo.gl/EGekFi

In the past, that joint has always cracked within a few years, but the reinforcement has been holding up fine since 2009.

I don't have a photo, but on that "old school" radiator, the inlet and outlet fittings actually go all the way through the tank and are soldered on the other side.  (Obviously there is a big hole in the side of the tube to allow for water flow.)

Randall

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From: Jack Brooks <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 20:01:45 -0700

I had a shop add a coolant sensor bund to my 1960 TR3 radiator when it was
in being hot tanked.  I don't remember what the cost was, but I was stunned
at how little it was, as I was prepared to do it myself if it cost much at
all.  It is a simple job for them.  
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