Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

From: Doug Braun <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 13:23:37 -0400

I suggest:

1: Clean real well with solvent.
2: Paint over w/ black epoxy paint (brush or spray).
3: Wait until semi-dry, then wipe off excess with cloth lightly dampened
with thinner.

Doug

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 12:58 PM, Peter J. Thomas <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings
> which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I
> wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings more
> readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was thinking
> either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure either would be
> durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?
>
> Peter T.
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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 16:36:51 -0700

Depending on the depth of the markings, you may just be able to wipe in 
some paint.  First clean well with paint thinner and let dry. Then paint 
in the markings and wipe off with a paper towel.  If you wipe too much 
out of the grooves, try one of the blue shop towel type of paper towel 
around a piece of wood so it doesn't go in the grooves (think sanding 
block).  This also works for the hard to see timing marks on the front 
of an engine, except with white paint.

You can use black for standard and red for metric.

Brian

On 9/24/2014 9:58 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
> I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped 
> markings which are hard to read when your under the car with low 
> lighting.  I wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make 
> the markings more readable, similar to the etched easy to read 
> sockets.  I was thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun 
> blueing.  Not sure either would be durable on a chromed tool. Has 
> anyone done this?
>
> Peter T.
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 21:27:53 -0500

Here's the best answer I found for this problem:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Socket-Labels-for-mechanics-the-home-craftsman-/280542105111?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

I have used a product that seems like this and they stay on the sockets
very well . . one wouldn't want to SOAK them in solvent but they can handle
normal usage.
Tony

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Brian Kemp <[email-masked]> wrote:

> some paint.  First clean well with paint thinner and let dry. Then paint in
> the markings and wipe off with a paper towel.  If you wipe too much out of
> the grooves, try one of the blue shop towel type of paper towel around a
> piece of wood so it doesn't go in the grooves (think sanding block).  This
> also works for the hard to see timing marks on the front of an engine,
> except with white paint.
>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@
>> earthlink.net
>>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: Jack Brooks <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 22:39:55 -0700

What. . . you guys don't just look at the nut/bolt and grab the right socket
every time?   <grin/sarcasm>

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Peter
J. Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:58 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings 
which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I 
wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings 
more readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was 
thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure 
either would be durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?

Peter T.

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
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From: old dirtbeard <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 06:04:09 -0700

Hi Jack,

Maybe some of us are getting older and the near vision is not quite what it used to be.  :-)

Actually I can identify most fractional sockets and nuts from across the room, but I have a much harder time with the metric fasteners...
 
best,

doug
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R

________________________________
 From: Jack Brooks <[email-masked]>
To: 'Shop Talk' <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

Jack

-----Original Message-----

Peter T.

[email-masked]

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From: Jack Brooks <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 07:49:57 -0700

Doug,

I was stunned as a kid, when I was working with my Dad that he simply asked
for the size socket or wrench he needed.  I can look at a nut/bolt and
mostly grab the right size tool, but I can't identify and name the size on
sight consistently.  I'm not sure how Dad did it.  Fortunately for me, my
son never did mechanical work with his grandpa, or he would know what a
failure his Dad is.  <Kidding>

I'm thinking that Standard is easier 'cause it's what we grew up with.  I've
done a fair bit of design work in metric and while I can "think" in metric,
it's not anywhere near the same as my ability to think in standard.

I also know what you mean about the vision thing.  Glasses on, glasses off,
<grrrrr>

Jack

  _____  

From: old dirtbeard [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:04 AM
To: Jack Brooks; 'Shop Talk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

Hi Jack,

Maybe some of us are getting older and the near vision is not quite what it
used to be.  :-)

Actually I can identify most fractional sockets and nuts from across the
room, but I have a much harder time with the metric fasteners...

best,

doug

________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550

'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R

  _____  

Jack

-----Original Message-----

Peter T.

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From: Robert nogueira <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 10:41:27 -0500

I bought a box of Testor model paint ( do kids still build models?)  and
painted a different color strip on each socket and wrench.  I can pick out the
right socket or wrench from across the room. The paint strip lasts for years
and is easily touch up.

Bob Nogueira

> On Sep 25, 2014, at 8:04 AM, old dirtbeard <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> Hi Jack,
>
used to be.  :-)
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
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From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 10:50:18 -0500

ON SALE NOW FOR $3.50 FREE POSTAGE; INCH & METRIC

>>  ____________________________________

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From: "john niolon" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:09:17 -0500

I've tried those and they are pretty good... but eventually they peel off... 
I've had better luck with making my own
with the vinyl labels from a Brothers or Dymo label maker... just get the 
sockets real clean before applying

none are really adequate when your sockets are in rows in the tool box... 
then you depend on your visual references

like in the 7th - 9th picture on link below...  I really like the IR impacts 
pic 10 or so that have the sizes etched in the socket wall

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/tools/NEWTOOLPAGE.HTML

john

-----Original Message----- 
From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 10:50 AM
To: Shop Talk List
Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] Fwd: Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped 
markings.

[email-masked]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 13:23:22 -0400

> right socket or wrench from across the room. The paint strip lasts for years

Then I'd assume Testor model paint would work well with the stamped 
sizes.   I was leaning towards epoxy appliance paint, or auto touchup.  
I bottle of Testor's is easy to find and cheap.  Appliance paint comes 
in spray cans and the auto touch is not cheap.  One bottle of black 
Testor would handle my entire tool box and can leave it in the tool box 
for new purchases or touch-ups.  Thanks!!!

BTW, the color stripe won't work for me.  Not only have I lost my near 
vision, but I'm also color blind.  One tip to add, I use cheap womens 
reading glasses in the shop.  Womens reading glasses are generally 
larger than mens and double as safety glasses since they're plastic.
_______________________________________________

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From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 14:02:08 -0400

Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate.  Cheap plastic 
glasses will be made of different plastic that is also probably 
thinner.  Besides the obvious absence of side shields, the reading 
glasses would not pass the tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of 
course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you 
are trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will 
do the job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, 
not so much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of 
polycarbonate.  I think they are closer to qualifying as safety 
glasses, minus side shields.

-Steve Trovato
[email-masked]

At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:

>BTW, the color stripe won't work for me.  Not only have I lost my 
>near vision, but I'm also color blind.  One tip to add, I use cheap 
>womens reading glasses in the shop.  Womens reading glasses are 
>generally larger than mens and double as safety glasses since they're plastic.

[email-masked]

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From: Mike Rambour <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:20:52 -0700

I use only bi-focal safety glasses now.  Local woodshop sells them at 
$5 each on sale at least once a month (woodcraft.com) normally $10/each.

http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/safreadglas.html  has them down to $3.10 
each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.

I have many pairs now :)

     mike

  On 9/25/2014 11:02 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you are 
> trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will do the 
> job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, not so 
> much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of polycarbonate.  I 
> think they are closer to qualifying as safety glasses, minus side 
> shields.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> [email-masked]
>
>> reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses

[email-masked]

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From: Larry Spector <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 14:32:01 -0400

Last time I bought prescription glasses, I went to Lenscrafters and asked
for their safety glass collection. They had a handful of frames with
removable side shields, and I had them made with bifocal lenses and safety
glass.

-Larry

On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour <[email-masked]> wrote:

>  I use only bi-focal safety glasses now.  Local woodshop sells them at $5
> each on sale at least once a month (woodcraft.com) normally $10/each.
>
>> Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate. Cheap plastic glasses
>> will be made of different plastic that is also probably thinner.  Besides
>> the obvious absence of side shields, the reading glasses would not pass the
>> tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of course, they are better than
>> nothing.  I guess it depends what you are trying to protect against.  For
>> light stuff, I'm sure they will do the job.  For serious projectiles like a
>> shattered grinding wheel, not so much.  I have prescription glasses that
>> are made of polycarbonate.  I think they are closer to qualifying as safety
> options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 16:51:36 -0400

> think they are closer to qualifying as safety glasses, minus side 

I have polycarb shooting glasses for safety and I use them for heavy 
duty tasks I wont put my face close enough to need reading lens. However 
I'm pretty sure the readers are polycarb and thicker than cheap glasses 
because its a lens.  You're right not real safety glasses but good 
enough for light close work and reading manuals.

[email-masked]

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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 16:52:40 -0400

On 9/25/2014 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour wrote:
> http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/safreadglas.html  has them down to 
> $3.10 each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.
>
> I have many pairs now :)

Thanks,  ugly is fine since I''m ugly.

>>> womens reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: steve hochschild <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 18:42:18 -0500

Ordered!

[email-masked]

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From: Steven Trovato <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 20:27:26 -0400

I did too.  It was actually only $3.25.

-Steve Trovato
[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: "Tim ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 19:41:20 -0500

> Ordered!

Me as well this morning after seeing the thread with the link. If nothing else
these will help with the socket ID in the back of my still TOO DARK shop.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 21:18:26 -0400

> $3.10 each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.

Ordered three pair of the cheap ones.

[email-masked]