Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal

From: PJ McGarvey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:24:51 -0400

Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I don't see a loctite
product that seems to match.  Recall the product name?
SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they talking
about JB Weld or other?
http://www.skf.com/binary/12-128020/11337_2-EN-SKF-Speedi-Sleeve.pdf - page 7

Thanks!

> Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 21:54:56 +0000
> From: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
>
>
> > So either the new seal is just failing (it was after a track day), or
whatever
> > I did to clean up the surface made it worse, or just Murphy's dumb luck
and
> > it's leaking more now than before.
>
> Have you considered a Speedi-sleeve?  You may have to look it up by size if
they don't have that particular application listed.  I've had good luck using
a sleeve that was listed for a shaft some .010" larger than the one I had;
used some Loctite "circular parts mount" under it and it sealed fine.
>
> Something else to look at is how snugly the shaft fits into the bore that
supports it.  On my Chevy, that bore was plain cast iron, and it wore
oversize, allowing the equivalent piece (the Chevy didn't use a flange, just a
CV joint) to wobble around.
> Randall
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From: "Tim ." <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:52:11 -0500

JB weld is very much NOT a "non-hardening sealant".
tim

> From: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]
> Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:24:51 -0400

[email-masked]

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From: Todd Walke <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 20:35:50 -0700

>SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they talking

         When I did my crank, I used Hylomar 'cause that's what I had in my 
box.  I'd think any RTV that's good for 300F or so would work.  I don't 
think the trans parts get much hotter than that.  Just make you use a very 
thin coat so it doesn't get onto the seal surface.  If any does, you'll 
want to clean it off ASAP.

Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       481,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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From: "Karl Vacek" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 07:51:53 -0500

While I'm a big fan of Hylomar and use it on so many things, it's not going
to keep the SpeediSleeve from turning on the axle.  If anything, it'll keep
it from freezing in any one place.  Randall's Loctite product (which you can
buy at the FLAPS in small quantities, even a one-use plastic packet, as
"Loctite Stud and Bearing Mount") will hold it in place solidly and
strongly.  Once positioned and set it's there, and will take heat to remove
in the future.  If you want future removability or repositionability on
assembly, I'd try Permatex Aviation Sealant, the stuff in the brush-top can.
It's resistant to most automotive chemicals, gas, and oil (works well on
gasoline fittings), but cleans up instantly with lacquer thinner.  It sets
up and will hold the sleeve in place, but stays semi-flexible and will
permit any realignment necessary on assembly.
Karl

PJ wrote:
>Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I don't see a 
>loctite product that seems to match.  Recall the product name?
>SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they 
>talking about JB Weld or other?

When I did my crank, I used Hylomar 'cause that's what I had in my box.  I'd
think any RTV that's good for 300F or so would work.  I don't think the
trans parts get much hotter than that.  Just make you use a very thin coat
so it doesn't get onto the seal surface.  If any does, you'll want to clean
it off ASAP.
Todd
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From: Todd Walke <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2014 06:11:57 -0700

Karl wrote:
>to keep the SpeediSleeve from turning on the axle.

The sleeves are slightly undersize and expand a bit as you install them.  I 
think that friction is what holds them in place.

Todd
Seattle,WA

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