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Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2014 10:23:10 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Source for refurb kits for auto parts.
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After 160K miles the throttle body on Ford Five Hundred failed. This one 
is a fly by wire.  There is not accelerator cable to the throttle body.  
Instead there is a computer controlled motor/gears that open an close 
the butterfly valve and a pair rheostats (for redundancy) to measure 
throttle position.  There is nothing wrong with the throttle body itself 
but if the motor or the rheostats fail you have to purchase the whole 
throttle body assembly.  It's extremely easy to replace either the motor 
or the rheostat but I can't find these parts separately.  Since I can 
buy remanufactured parts I assume there is a source for just the 
rheostats and just the motor.  Has anyone found a supply for the parts 
that remanufacturers use to rebuild our parts?

Peter Thomas
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2014 08:13:23 -0700
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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 <CAO8Q7CPWQkwfqWudWxS4Yy4NfPbQeUPQdB3nWidymMrOrYenbA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Delta Unisaw
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On 8/31/2014 8:00 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> Is it a capacitor-start or -run motor?  Is it running at normal speed?
  Don't know and yes it is running at normal speed.
> Have you ever blown all the sawdust out of the motor?
Not recently but yes I have regularly when using the saw, I did it again 
over the weekend and I will see if that helps.
> Does it run OK with no load other than the blade (not cutting wood)?
  Yes it does.
> Those are the first things I'd consider...
  I threw in a new blade over the weekend along with a really good 
cleaning of the motor, we will see what happens but from the responses I 
got it seems its likely not the motor itself, just poor maintenance and 
dull blade, I have quite a bit of cutting within the next few weeks so I 
will test it.

   Mike
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 09:26:06 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Mike Rambour'" <lists@dinospider.com>, "'shop-talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5400D4FA.8060909@dinospider.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPWQkwfqWudWxS4Yy4NfPbQeUPQdB3nWidymMrOrYenbA@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2014 10:28:38 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Delta Unisaw
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Mike,

Have you changed the way the saw gets power? It may be on too small a wire,
causing voltage drop. My Powermatic 66 has a 2 H.P., 220v motor, but
requires a 50A breaker, and #8 wire to spin it up and under load.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Rambour
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 10:13 AM
To: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Delta Unisaw

On 8/31/2014 8:00 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> Is it a capacitor-start or -run motor?  Is it running at normal speed?
  Don't know and yes it is running at normal speed.
> Have you ever blown all the sawdust out of the motor?
Not recently but yes I have regularly when using the saw, I did it again
over the weekend and I will see if that helps.
> Does it run OK with no load other than the blade (not cutting wood)?
  Yes it does.
> Those are the first things I'd consider...
  I threw in a new blade over the weekend along with a really good cleaning
of the motor, we will see what happens but from the responses I got it seems
its likely not the motor itself, just poor maintenance and dull blade, I
have quite a bit of cutting within the next few weeks so I will test it.

   Mike
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 09:31:41 2014
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From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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To: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>,  'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5400D4FA.8060909@dinospider.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPWQkwfqWudWxS4Yy4NfPbQeUPQdB3nWidymMrOrYenbA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Delta Unisaw
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  No I have not changed power, I well over 20 years ago made a small 
1ft. long cable with the Unisaw's original plug configuration on one end 
and my walls 50amp outlet on the other end, that way I am using the 
Unisaw's original power cord, my little 1ft. long piece made with same 
gauge wire (don't remember what it was) and that into the wall.  The 
50amp circuit is there for my TIG welder and it works fine on that 
outlet (obviously only thing plugged in at a time)  what wiring is 
behind the wall I don't know, I could open up the sub-panel and check 
but it has not changed in at least 20 years.

  However I will take apart my 1ft. piece and double check the 
connections on both ends.

     mike

On 9/2/2014 8:28 AM, Pat Horne wrote:
> Mike,
>
> Have you changed the way the saw gets power? It may be on too small a wire,
> causing voltage drop. My Powermatic 66 has a 2 H.P., 220v motor, but
> requires a 50A breaker, and #8 wire to spin it up and under load.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  2 11:26:19 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2014 10:28:50 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Delta Unisaw
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> On 8/31/2014 8:00 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> > Is it a capacitor-start or -run motor?  

>   Don't know 

Might be worth checking.  Those old capacitors don't last forever, and a dried out "run" capacitor can cause similar symptoms.  Kind
of like a 3 phase motor running on only one phase.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 06:24:46 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 08:14:52 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/03/2014 08:14:54, Serialize complete at
 09/03/2014 08:14:54
Subject: [Shop-talk] Need advice from mechanical engineering minded guys (so
 I came the best place!)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, this isn't typical shop content, but it is about heavy duty tools, so 
it fits.
I'm looking for a log skidder for my ATV.  I made my own, and it works*, 
but not nearly as nice as it needs to.
Most of the better units have overhead lifts.  When I looked at the price 
for the steel, components, wheels axles, my time, etc- it's cheaper to buy 
one already made.
There are two different types of 'lifts' for these.  One is a passive 
"Slide" type of lift.  The other is a manual crank type.

Here are the two models I have narrowed it down to...

>http://www.hud-son.com/products/product-detail/atv-log-arch-bolt-together-skidder-arch<

and 

>http://www.countryatv.com/atv-log-skidder.html<
Here is a video on how the second one works...
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvAtTP9-yUo&feature=player_embedded#t=2s<

So, here is my question...
I really like the idea of the 'slide' type (the second one), but can you 
see if there is any real design flaw to this?  I can't find any reviews on 
this model.

The other unit is from a company that I've dealt with and they make top 
quality stuff.

Price isn't that important as I can most likely get a discount on the 
first one to bring the prices about the same.

So, which one do you think WORKS better?

*=For those interested, here is my homemade one.  (It's designed to be 
unbolted to come apart easy and store in very little space.  Not a concern 
with the new one.)
Please ignore the poor welds and such, it was built in a hurry as I needed 
something right away.

http://tinyurl.com/atvlogskidder 

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 07:12:26 2014
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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 14:14:57 +0100
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OF6636987E.E46021C2-ON85257D48.0042A6CD-85257D48.00440CA7@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need advice from mechanical engineering minded guys
 (so I came the best place!)
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Eric,

I would opt for the slide. Nice piece of design. It's possible that the 
slide could bend or the stop at the end deform, both fixable for someone 
of your abilities. But then you're pulling it with an ATV not a D8.

It also has the advantage of being cheaper.

Nick Brearley


On 03/09/2014 13:14, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, this isn't typical shop content, but it is about heavy duty tools, so
> it fits.
> I'm looking for a log skidder for my ATV.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 08:56:36 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF6636987E.E46021C2-ON85257D48.0042A6CD-85257D48.00440CA7@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 09:59:08 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need advice from mechanical engineering minded guys
 (so I came the best place!)
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Eric, My view is that the fewer moving parts, the better. 


Why not consider adding an arch to your skidder so that you can tip the
skidder up on its back end, cinch the log to the arch and then pull the
hitch back down. This will keep you from having to lift the log up so you
can get your skidder under it, then let the log lay on your skidder. But if
you would rather buy something, I'd go with the slide unit. Depending on how
heavy your logs are, and how strong the slide bar is, it may need replacing,
but that should be easy.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----

So, here is my question...
I really like the idea of the 'slide' type (the second one), but can you see
if there is any real design flaw to this?  I can't find any reviews on this
model.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:24:51 -0400
References: <COL127-W135FC647F1F1FC30A0F5B99ADA0@phx.gbl>,
 <20140828215456.KZW1L.84584.root@cdptpa-web24>
 FILETIME=[3503B250:01CFC78B]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I don't see a loctite
product that seems to match.  Recall the product name?
SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they talking
about JB Weld or other?
http://www.skf.com/binary/12-128020/11337_2-EN-SKF-Speedi-Sleeve.pdf - page 7

Thanks!

> Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 21:54:56 +0000
> From: tr3driver@ca.rr.com
> To: pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com; shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
>
>
> > So either the new seal is just failing (it was after a track day), or
whatever
> > I did to clean up the surface made it worse, or just Murphy's dumb luck
and
> > it's leaking more now than before.
>
> Have you considered a Speedi-sleeve?  You may have to look it up by size if
they don't have that particular application listed.  I've had good luck using
a sleeve that was listed for a shaft some .010" larger than the one I had;
used some Loctite "circular parts mount" under it and it sealed fine.
>
> Something else to look at is how snugly the shaft fits into the bore that
supports it.  On my Chevy, that bore was plain cast iron, and it wore
oversize, allowing the equivalent piece (the Chevy didn't use a flange, just a
CV joint) to wobble around.
>
> Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 10:49:36 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:52:11 -0500
References: <COL127-W135FC647F1F1FC30A0F5B99ADA0@phx.gbl>, ,
 <20140828215456.KZW1L.84584.root@cdptpa-web24>,
 <COL127-W33F3037474520113A260CB9AC40@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
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JB weld is very much NOT a "non-hardening sealant".
tim

> From: pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
> To: tr3driver@ca.rr.com; shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:24:51 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
>
> Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I don't see a
loctite
> product that seems to match.  Recall the product name?
> SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they
talking
> about JB Weld or other?
> http://www.skf.com/binary/12-128020/11337_2-EN-SKF-Speedi-Sleeve.pdf - page
7
>
> Thanks!
>
> > Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 21:54:56 +0000
> > From: tr3driver@ca.rr.com
> > To: pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com; shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
> >
> >
> > > So either the new seal is just failing (it was after a track day), or
> whatever
> > > I did to clean up the surface made it worse, or just Murphy's dumb luck
> and
> > > it's leaking more now than before.
> >
> > Have you considered a Speedi-sleeve?  You may have to look it up by size
if
> they don't have that particular application listed.  I've had good luck
using
> a sleeve that was listed for a shaft some .010" larger than the one I had;
> used some Loctite "circular parts mount" under it and it sealed fine.
> >
> > Something else to look at is how snugly the shaft fits into the bore that
> supports it.  On my Chevy, that bore was plain cast iron, and it wore
> oversize, allowing the equivalent piece (the Chevy didn't use a flange, just
a
> CV joint) to wobble around.
> >
> > Randall
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <OF6636987E.E46021C2-ON85257D48.0042A6CD-85257D48.00440CA7@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 12:00:59 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need advice from mechanical engineering minded guys
 (so I came the best place!)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 7:14 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, this isn't typical shop content, but it is about heavy duty tools, so
> it fits.
> I'm looking for a log skidder for my ATV.  I made my own, and it works*,
> but not nearly as nice as it needs to.
> Most of the better units have overhead lifts.  When I looked at the price
> for the steel, components, wheels axles, my time, etc- it's cheaper to buy
> one already made.
> There are two different types of 'lifts' for these.  One is a passive
> "Slide" type of lift.  The other is a manual crank type.
>


The SLIDER, hands down.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:06:41 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need advice from mechanical engineering minded guys
 (so I came the best place!)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 8:14 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> So, here is my question...
> I really like the idea of the 'slide' type (the second one), but can you
> see if there is any real design flaw to this?  I can't find any reviews on
> this model.
>

I like the slider.  The maximum force in any one spot on the rod would be
when it's first pulled, or when it's fully supported at the top...at that
point, the force on the rod is very near the welded end.  Once it overcomes
the static friction, it moves along the rod and isn't concentrated in any
one spot for long.

Plus, it's simple.  Simple is better.  Let the log do the work, not you.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'PJ McGarvey'" <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 10:12:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/HizWPgTSLCImtSyC7Tg1SxylaAQADXYMw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I 
> don't see a loctite product that seems to match.  Recall the 
> product name?

Sorry, I guess I mis-remembered the name.  It's Loctite RC 609, Retaining Compound, Cylindrical bonding.

No doubt there are other, better choices, I just have a big bottle of RC609 that I'm trying to use up :)

> 
> SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  
> Are they talking about JB Weld or other?
> 
> http://www.skf.com/binary/12-128020/11337_2-EN-SKF-Speedi-Sleeve.pdf - page 7

I'd guess they mean something more like Permatex #3.  JB Weld would be the "powdered metal epoxy-type filler" they recommend for
deep damage.

But of course, those instructions are for sleeves that fit the application.  I was installing a sleeve on a surface that was smaller
than recommended.  When the sleeve fits properly, it actually expands as it is installed, guaranteeing a tight fit to the shaft.
I've never bothered using anything in that case.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 11:15:51 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:05:59 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/03/2014 13:06:02, Serialize complete at
 09/03/2014 13:06:02
Subject: [Shop-talk] Follow up for the ATV Skidder--- MIQ IS THE MAN!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

First, thanks for all the replies about the ATV Skidder.  Seems that we 
are all of the same mind and that the 'slidder' was the best option.

Of the same mind, EXCEPT one shinning star.  I don't mean to embarrass Miq 
or anything, but he sent me a rendered drawing that showed me a way to mod 
my existing skidder to make is a slider.

I'll be doing that as soon as I pick up some steel!  It was a great idea. 
What a visionary.

BTW, I donated $20 in Miq's name to team.net only because I couldn't buy 
him a drink of his choice over the interwebs. 

Miq, if you are ever in NJ, or I'm ever near you, I'm buying!

Thanks again to everyone for the great ideas and help.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 11:15:56 -0700
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tig Welder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hubby and I would like to get a good tig welder. Can anyone recommend one?
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 13:56:44 -0500
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.1.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAAy7z=1SCPWnaxeOoE2pfbieAVE3SXLBFL-irr-imH_Joz6gVA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tig Welder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

As the sign on the wall of the store reads: "Speed costs money, how fast 
do you want to go?"

Just my opinion, but a 'good' welder means Lincoln, Miller, or other 
brand name.  I am partial to Miller, myself.  I have a Diversion 165, 
which will weld _thin_ aluminum, as well as steel.  The current version 
of this is the Diversion 180 I think.  When I was in school I learned on 
a Synchrowave, which has a lot of adjustability.

In any case, www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/ would be a good place to 
start...

Where are you located?


On 9/3/2014 1:15 PM, Shannah Miller wrote:
> Hubby and I would like to get a good tig welder. Can anyone recommend one?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild@att.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 15:01:48 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
Cc: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tig Welder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The first question is : ac for steel,  or ac/dc for steel and aluminum?

Doug
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 14:17:22 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tig Welder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Whatever you do I'd suggest you buy from a local dealer. It may cost you
more, but I think you'll get better after sale support. I'd definitely buy
my consumables from a local supplier for the same reason.

Ron


On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 1:56 PM, steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
wrote:

> As the sign on the wall of the store reads: "Speed costs money, how fast
> do you want to go?"
>
> Just my opinion, but a 'good' welder means Lincoln, Miller, or other brand
> name.  I am partial to Miller, myself.  I have a Diversion 165, which will
> weld _thin_ aluminum, as well as steel.  The current version of this is the
> Diversion 180 I think.  When I was in school I learned on a Synchrowave,
> which has a lot of adjustability.
>
> In any case, www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/ would be a good place to
> start...
>
> Where are you located?
>
>
> On 9/3/2014 1:15 PM, Shannah Miller wrote:
>
>> Hubby and I would like to get a good tig welder. Can anyone recommend one?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/shop-talk/shochschild@att.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  3 14:43:56 2014
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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 16:46:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tig Welder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, 3 Sep 2014, Doug Braun wrote:
> The first question is : ac for steel,  or ac/dc for steel and aluminum?

    ( You got that backwards... DC is for steel, AC for aluminum. )

    And the next questions are...

* what is your budget?
* how much room do you have?
* how much power do you have?
* how thick is the thickest material you plan to weld? ( and then double that, 
because you'll always find something else to make )
* what duty cycle do you require, and do you need a water-cooled torch?

    If money, power and space are no object, just buy a Miller Dynasty 700. 
There's no downside apart from the smoking crater it will leave in your 
checking account.

    Modern inverter-based units are much smaller and more efficient than older 
transformer units, like my Miller Syncrowave 180.  Some people prefer the 
characteristics of the transformer arc, and they are much cheaper, but they are 
large ( mine is relatively small -- roughly a small dishwasher -- and 245 
pounds ) and power hungry ( mine will pop a 50 amp 240v breaker when cranked 
all the way up ).

    You can't really go wrong buying from Miller / Hobart, Lincoln, or HTP... as 
long as you make sure the unit you buy meets your requirements.
Chinese brands are much cheaper, but DOA rates are high, and you don't always 
get your money back.

    There are hundreds of threads on this very topic at weldingweb.com, but 
don't go there and ask this question ( at least, not without a lot more detail 
).  They've heard it too many times already.

--
  David Hillman
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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 17:06:37 -0400
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAAy7z=1SCPWnaxeOoE2pfbieAVE3SXLBFL-irr-imH_Joz6gVA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tig Welder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought an HTP Invertig 200 a few years ago that I'm quite satisfied 
with.  I haven't used it as much as I expected but it seems reliable and 
predictable, good features and options available.  The latest versions 
are more powerful than mine, but mine is adequate for my work.

On 9/3/2014 2:15 PM, Shannah Miller wrote:
> Hubby and I would like to get a good tig welder. Can anyone recommend one?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas@snet.net
>
>


-- 
_______________________________________________

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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 20:33:31 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a brass radiator on which I need to relocate the input outlet.  I'm
hoping to do it without disturbing the tank to core seam.
I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.
My plan is to place a damp cloth over the tank to core soldered seam and to
use a high heat       (oxygen and Mapp gas) torch so the new inlet and it's
seam to the tank heat up quickly before the heat can travel to the seams that
I want to remain untouched. The new inlet will be located about an inch from
the tank to core seam.
I'll also be using a infrared thermometer to monitor the tank to core seam.
Anyone have other  suggestions as to how go about this or problems with my
plan.

Note the current input is soldered to the tank from the outside only  and the
radiator will be used with a 4 or 7 lbs cap at most.
Thanks for any suggestions.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 20:35:50 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
References: <20140828215456.KZW1L.84584.root@cdptpa-web24>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
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PJ wrote:
>Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I don't see a loctite
>product that seems to match.  Recall the product name?
>SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they talking
>about JB Weld or other?

         When I did my crank, I used Hylomar 'cause that's what I had in my 
box.  I'd think any RTV that's good for 300F or so would work.  I don't 
think the trans parts get much hotter than that.  Just make you use a very 
thin coat so it doesn't get onto the seal surface.  If any does, you'll 
want to clean it off ASAP.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       481,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Robert nogueira'" <nogera@icloud.com>, "'Shop-talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2014 22:36:01 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator
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> I have a brass radiator on which I need to relocate the input 
> outlet.  I'm
> hoping to do it without disturbing the tank to core seam.
> I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.

I'm reasonably adept at soldering; no problem with electrical or copper plumbing and I've even had some success with body work.

But my first thought would be to take it to the local radiator shop and let them deal with it.  They've got the skills and the tools
(including the acid dip tank); and so far at least, the charge has been less than I expected.

Worth asking, anyway.

BTW, true MAPP gas is no longer available in the US.  What they are selling is a substitute.  To me at least, it doesn't seem to
work as well.

Randall
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20140828215456.KZW1L.84584.root@cdptpa-web24>
 <COL127-W135FC647F1F1FC30A0F5B99ADA0@phx.gbl>
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Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 07:51:53 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHicV80Bg7nbh70QGYoKyDqqi3csQKMdYvqAeJxXzQBuH6KGZuaXalw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re: Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

While I'm a big fan of Hylomar and use it on so many things, it's not going
to keep the SpeediSleeve from turning on the axle.  If anything, it'll keep
it from freezing in any one place.  Randall's Loctite product (which you can
buy at the FLAPS in small quantities, even a one-use plastic packet, as
"Loctite Stud and Bearing Mount") will hold it in place solidly and
strongly.  Once positioned and set it's there, and will take heat to remove
in the future.  If you want future removability or repositionability on
assembly, I'd try Permatex Aviation Sealant, the stuff in the brush-top can.
It's resistant to most automotive chemicals, gas, and oil (works well on
gasoline fittings), but cleans up instantly with lacquer thinner.  It sets
up and will hold the sleeve in place, but stays semi-flexible and will
permit any realignment necessary on assembly.
Karl

PJ wrote:
>Randall, you mentioned Loctite "circular parts mount".  I don't see a 
>loctite product that seems to match.  Recall the product name?
>SKF recommends a "light layer of a non-hardening sealant".  Are they 
>talking about JB Weld or other?

When I did my crank, I used Hylomar 'cause that's what I had in my box.  I'd
think any RTV that's good for 300F or so would work.  I don't think the
trans parts get much hotter than that.  Just make you use a very thin coat
so it doesn't get onto the seal surface.  If any does, you'll want to clean
it off ASAP.
Todd
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 07:25:56 2014
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Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2014 06:11:57 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20140903203242.03960348@mail.avvanta.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Re: Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Karl wrote:
>While I'm a big fan of Hylomar and use it on so many things, it's not going
>to keep the SpeediSleeve from turning on the axle.

The sleeves are slightly undersize and expand a bit as you install them.  I 
think that friction is what holds them in place.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       481,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Robert nogueira'" <nogera@icloud.com>, "'Shop-talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <C10419B3-3A7D-4FDA-8564-3F27E09FAF06@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 08:31:16 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator
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Depending on how close you will be soldering to a seam, you may be able to
use some heat absorbing putty to keep the heat from unsoldering the seam.
Mist necks that I've seen installed have a flange formed from the tank to
give some physical support for the neck, rather than just cutting a hold and
soldering to the cut edge of the tank.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Robert nogueira
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 8:34 PM
To: Shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator

I have a brass radiator on which I need to relocate the input outlet.  I'm
hoping to do it without disturbing the tank to core seam.
I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.
My plan is to place a damp cloth over the tank to core soldered seam and to
use a high heat       (oxygen and Mapp gas) torch so the new inlet and it's
seam to the tank heat up quickly before the heat can travel to the seams
that I want to remain untouched. The new inlet will be located about an inch
from the tank to core seam.
I'll also be using a infrared thermometer to monitor the tank to core seam.
Anyone have other  suggestions as to how go about this or problems with my
plan.

Note the current input is soldered to the tank from the outside only  and
the radiator will be used with a 4 or 7 lbs cap at most.
Thanks for any suggestions.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 09:11:19 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac/ISfA+Imz/z0JATPaPeqCbgVEbsw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If this is a repeat, I apologize.  My Shop Talk replies bounce when I
accidentally reply to more than just the list, which I just did.

There's a plumbing product called Cool Gel that absolutely works as
advertised:
http://www.laco.com/cool-gel-/

The stuff is uncanny.  You have to be careful not to get the material too
close to where you want to solder because it's so effective.  If it gets
closer than a couple of inches to a fitting on pipe, that fitting becomes
almost impossible to solder with a normal MAPP torch.

Being intended for use on copper plumbing pipe, which is much thicker and
conducts heat so much better, it should work wonderfully on a thin brass
radiator tank.  I'd brush it rather than spray, for accuracy.

As far as using high heat to solder faster, take it easy.  Too much heat
will just burn the solder and ruin your joint.  Radiator stuff is thin and
heats easily.  Propane without oxygen is very adequate.  MAPP or fake MAPP
with oxygen is like oxyacetylene - way too much for what you're doing.

And I'd echo Randall's suggestion of taking it to a GOOD radiator shop.  If
they're actually good, it'll be a cheap and strong repair.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat
Horne
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 8:31 AM
To: 'Robert nogueira'; 'Shop-talk'
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator

Depending on how close you will be soldering to a seam, you may be able to
use some heat absorbing putty to keep the heat from unsoldering the seam.
Mist necks that I've seen installed have a flange formed from the tank to
give some physical support for the neck, rather than just cutting a hold and
soldering to the cut edge of the tank.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Robert nogueira
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 8:34 PM
To: Shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator

I have a brass radiator on which I need to relocate the input outlet.  I'm
hoping to do it without disturbing the tank to core seam.
I'm looking for suggestions as to how to go about this task.
My plan is to place a damp cloth over the tank to core soldered seam and to
use a high heat       (oxygen and Mapp gas) torch so the new inlet and it's
seam to the tank heat up quickly before the heat can travel to the seams
that I want to remain untouched. The new inlet will be located about an inch
from the tank to core seam.
I'll also be using a infrared thermometer to monitor the tank to core seam.
Anyone have other  suggestions as to how go about this or problems with my
plan.

Note the current input is soldered to the tank from the outside only  and
the radiator will be used with a 4 or 7 lbs cap at most.
Thanks for any suggestions.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/kvacek@ameritech.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 09:59:45 2014
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Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:02:13 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 16:02:13 +0000
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com> wrote: 

> Mist necks that I've seen installed have a flange formed from the tank to
> give some physical support for the neck, rather than just cutting a hold and
> soldering to the cut edge of the tank.

One way to add some physical support is to form some soft 1/8" copper tubing to lay in the joint, then solder it to both tank and neck.

Not the best photo, but you can almost see what my radiator shop did for me in this shot:
http://goo.gl/EGekFi

In the past, that joint has always cracked within a few years, but the reinforcement has been holding up fine since 2009.

I don't have a photo, but on that "old school" radiator, the inlet and outlet fittings actually go all the way through the tank and are soldered on the other side.  (Obviously there is a big hole in the side of the tube to allow for water flow.)

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:06:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Internet gurus ???

Ibm trying to set up a verizon 4620i jetpack for remote internet access...
signal seems poor   2 bars and very slow access...

Ibm also trying an omnidirectional antenna to boost the signal... supposed
to be a 9 db gain antenna

http://www.antennagear.net/catalog/9LTE-VW-OEM-SMK-Set(3).png

when I connect antenna I see no increase in bars and looking at the display on
the jetpack I see no change
in the RSSI    it is at 32%  and b114 dBi

surely an outside antenna should increase my signal

can someone explaoin the 32%   % of what  ??

and is b114 dBi good or bad... would b125dBi  be better or worse... I
donbt understand the nomenclature I guess


thanks
john

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 14:43:11 2014
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Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:45:16 -0400
From: Joe Szwed <szwedj@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] :  Soldering a radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Many years ago (over 30) a friend of mine had a radiator shop.  I know when
we used to build custom brass radiators for race cars, the tank corners,
necks and hose connections were all silver soldered together as it made a
stronger connection and as it had high a higher melt temperature they were
not effected by the heat when the tanks were soldered to the header plates
on the core with soft solder.

 I don't remember how we did the hose connections and filler necks on
regular car radiators at the time.  Like any solder joint, you had to get
everything real clean.  It was normal to pull the tanks off, glass bead
them, make any repairs and solder them back on.  Also we had a tinning
solution that would be applied to everything before soldering.

Joe
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 17:32:00 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'john niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <550961F5B92242FAAAA853F74EB51EFD@johnslaptop>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 18:34:31 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

I'm afraid that an omni antenna will not get you what you need. What range
from the hot spot to the users?

Have you tried one of these hot spots at the local Verizon store for
comparison?

Comparing the radiation field of different omni directional antennae shows
that as the db rating goes up, all that changes is that the signal is
flattened out vertically which concentrates the signal in a flatter area,
giving you a somewhat longer range. Generally this doesn't help all that
much unless you are starting with a marginal signal that just needs a little
push.
Also, since this is a battery powered device, the radio in it is probably
not as strong as something that plugs in and intended to be used within feet
of the radio. You can't use this device to connect to another wireless
router and supply a stronger signal to multiple users, but it will work for
a single user though. The only way to get this kind of functionality for
multiple users is to find hot spot that you can plug an Ethernet cable into.
You can then connect that cable to a wireless router and it will work.

As for the 34%, that is a signal quality. Most wifi radio links try to run
at 75% or higher for fast and solid connections.

The -114dbi vs. -125dbi question is not easily answered. This number is
something that a technician or engineer would be interested in, but not you,
so just ignore it.

Overall, I'd try for the highest RSSI and percentage number, but I don't
expect there to be much that can be done for this box.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john
niolon
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 3:07 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength

Internet gurus ???

Ibm trying to set up a verizon 4620i jetpack for remote internet access...
signal seems poor   2 bars and very slow access...

Ibm also trying an omnidirectional antenna to boost the signal... supposed
to be a 9 db gain antenna

http://www.antennagear.net/catalog/9LTE-VW-OEM-SMK-Set(3).png

when I connect antenna I see no increase in bars and looking at the display
on the jetpack I see no change
in the RSSI    it is at 32%  and b114 dBi

surely an outside antenna should increase my signal

can someone explaoin the 32%   % of what  ??

and is b114 dBi good or bad... would b125dBi  be better or worse... I
donbt understand the nomenclature I guess


thanks
john

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  4 20:59:18 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
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Thread-Index: Ac/ISfA+Imz/z0JATPaPeqCbgVEbswAa0aZg
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soldering a radiator
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I had a shop add a coolant sensor bund to my 1960 TR3 radiator when it was
in being hot tanked.  I don't remember what the cost was, but I was stunned
at how little it was, as I was prepared to do it myself if it cost much at
all.  It is a simple job for them.  
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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 13:32:07 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Does any re-manufacturer  buy cores?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just replaced a part with a new part instead of a re manufactured part.  
Now have a core but no need to have it re manufactured.  Does any 
company buy cores?

Peter Thomas.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 17:35:33 GMT
To: pj_thomas@comcast.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Does any re-manufacturer  buy cores?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

TRF used to. Matt

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Does any re-manufacturer  buy cores?
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2014 13:32:07 -0400

Just replaced a part with a new part instead of a re manufactured part.
Now have a core but no need to have it re manufactured.  Does any
company buy cores?

Peter Thomas.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2014 22:51:07 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>, shop-talk
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Does any re-manufacturer buy cores?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net> wrote:
> Just replaced a part with a new part instead of a re manufactured part.  Now
> have a core but no need to have it re manufactured.  Does any company buy
> cores?
>

Call your local junk yards.  And ask the shop you bought the new parts
from.  Unless you're talking about an engine or transmission or other
expensive thing, don't expect much.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1@gmail.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <550961F5B92242FAAAA853F74EB51EFD@johnslaptop>
 <CADm3DLEvA--ch0+TieEWW=cZphZywzKK7WE0JptVsF2+xvAcHA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 06:44:19 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well Brad... you were spot on.   Put the antenna up about 15b (5b above
the trailer) even fabricated a ground plane under it... and it absolutely no
difference in signal strength or dBm readout...   thatbs a hundred bucks in
the wind...

suggestions ???

thanks
john
om: Brad Kahler
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 3:20 PM
To: john niolon
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength

John,

I think you're using the same jetpack I am.  I also have an external antenna
and if I remember right at most I would see one bar increase and possibly no
bar increase.  Been a while since I looked at it.

When I get home I'll check what the status is on mine and let you know.

Also, my Verizon 4g isn't super fast but it is faster than satellite by a fair
margin.  At least near Richmond Kentucky which is where I'm at.

Brad




On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:06 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

  Internet gurus ???

  Ib m trying to set up a verizon 4620i jetpack for remote internet access...
  signal seems poor   2 bars and very slow access...

  Ib m also trying an omnidirectional antenna to boost the signal... supposed
  to be a 9 db gain antenna

  http://www.antennagear.net/catalog/9LTE-VW-OEM-SMK-Set(3).png

  when I connect antenna I see no increase in bars and looking at the display
on
  the jetpack I see no change
  in the RSSI    it is at 32%  and b 114 dBi

  surely an outside antenna should increase my signal

  can someone explaoin the 32%   % of what  ??

  and is b 114 dBi good or bad... would b 125dBi  be better or worse... I
  donb t understand the nomenclature I guess


  thanks
  john

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 08:05:57 2014
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Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2014 10:04:31 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5409F397.8050509@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Does any re-manufacturer buy cores?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/5/2014 11:51 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Just replaced a part with a new part instead of a re manufactured part.  Now
>> have a core but no need to have it re manufactured.  Does any company buy
>> cores?
>>
> Call your local junk yards.  And ask the shop you bought the new parts
> from.  Unless you're talking about an engine or transmission or other
> expensive thing, don't expect much.

It's a fly by wire throttle body.  New OEM it's is about $600, refurbs 
vary but are around $400 with core charge is about $30-50 bucks.  It 
also appears to be an indemand part with low supplies.  I ordered a new 
one online (horror story) and they don't do cores unless you buy a 
part.  I'd expect a auto parts store or junk yard to at most pay half.  
I thought selling it directly to a refurb might make it worth the effort.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 10:50:44 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <550961F5B92242FAAAA853F74EB51EFD@johnslaptop>
 <CADm3DLEvA--ch0+TieEWW=cZphZywzKK7WE0JptVsF2+xvAcHA@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 09:43:33 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/KkiAforfwot6eREClVHzpfk5ffQAJ9IBA
 FILETIME=[E0E67080:01CFCABA]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength - ATT QUESTIONS
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Helping a friend;

Hey guys, I read some of this thread, but it didn't really apply to my so I
read and deleted.  Last night a close friend was complaining that he
switched to ATT and now his reception at home is not nearly as nice as it
was with Verizon.  Did anyone retain a summary email about what worked well
for ATT for boosting the local signal?  He doesn't need much, but it will
need to cover the area of his home.

Thanks in advance if any one can help!

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john
niolon
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2014 4:44 AM
To: Brad Kahler; shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength

Well Brad... you were spot on.   Put the antenna up about 15b (5b above
the trailer) even fabricated a ground plane under it... and it absolutely no
difference in signal strength or dBm readout...   thatbs a hundred bucks in
the wind...

suggestions ???

thanks
john
om: Brad Kahler
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 3:20 PM
To: john niolon
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mobile hotspot signal strength

John,

I think you're using the same jetpack I am.  I also have an external antenna
and if I remember right at most I would see one bar increase and possibly no
bar increase.  Been a while since I looked at it.

When I get home I'll check what the status is on mine and let you know.

Also, my Verizon 4g isn't super fast but it is faster than satellite by a
fair
margin.  At least near Richmond Kentucky which is where I'm at.

Brad




On Thu, Sep 4, 2014 at 4:06 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

  Internet gurus ???

  Ib m trying to set up a verizon 4620i jetpack for remote internet
access...
  signal seems poor   2 bars and very slow access...

  Ib m also trying an omnidirectional antenna to boost the signal...
supposed
  to be a 9 db gain antenna

  http://www.antennagear.net/catalog/9LTE-VW-OEM-SMK-Set(3).png

  when I connect antenna I see no increase in bars and looking at the
display
on
  the jetpack I see no change
  in the RSSI    it is at 32%  and b 114 dBi

  surely an outside antenna should increase my signal

  can someone explaoin the 32%   % of what  ??

  and is b 114 dBi good or bad... would b 125dBi  be better or worse... I
  donb t understand the nomenclature I guess


  thanks
  john

  ---
  This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
  protection is active.
  http://www.avast.com
  _______________________________________________

  Shop-talk@autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 14:23:52 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 16:03:15 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/07/2014 16:03:18, Serialize complete at
 09/07/2014 16:03:18
Subject: [Shop-talk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new question about
 the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes. these are related questions...

First, I want to thank Miq once again for the great suggestion on moding 
up my skidder.  It's coming out better than I expected.
While I'm still building this, I have a very important question about 
material strength.
The last thing I need to build on my skidder is the bar that the chain 
rides on.  Here is a link to the video in case you want to see it again...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvAtTP9-yUo

I need to know what size pipe do I need to use for this skidder bar.  The 
two choices of pipe stock I have (I'll send another email about the steal 
supply around here)  are...
2.25 ID steel pipe (16th wall thickness)  or a 1 5/8th ID steel pipe (8th 
wall thickness.)
Here is the problem, if I go with the 2.25 pipe, I can't find any ring to 
go around it.  With the 1 5/8th pipe, I could find the ring easily.
The bar will span about 64".  I don't know exactly what the weight one 
side of the log will be (the pipe will only be point loaded for a brief 
time.)

The second question is for anyone that bought one of Harbor Freight's pipe 
bender.  My question is, do you have an neat ways to store it with all the 
dies?

Thanks so much.  I can't wait to finish this skidder, I'll post photos 
once I get it done.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 15:39:39 2014
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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 17:32:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF049CD155.ABFAE5CC-ON85257D4C.006E59EF-85257D4C.006F57D3@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new question
 about the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, 7 Sep 2014, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> The second question is for anyone that bought one of Harbor Freight's pipe
> bender.  My question is, do you have an neat ways to store it with all the
> dies?

    I bought one of these a few years ago.  Very useful for makjng terrible 
quality, kinked, bends.  If you want anything decent to result, you're 
going to have to fill the tube with sand and weld caps on the ends.  At 
which point, you may as well suck it up and buy a real bender.

    I liked this tool so much I don't know where mine is.  I think I loaned 
it out with the stipulation they never bring it back.

    It's a pipe kinker, not a bender.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  7 22:30:48 2014
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References: <5409F397.8050509@comcast.net>
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 <540C65EF.8060309@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 23:33:25 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Does any re-manufacturer buy cores?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

*Long, long ago, a college pal was a junk scrounger and made serious money
buying flathead Ford V8*
*engines and a long list of parts for a rebuilder in Ft Worth.  On the list
was some odd **Chrysler connecting rod; the rebuilded was offering $10 or
$12 for each!  Ron majored in this item and amassed a big pile of them, I
donno, maybe 50 or 60.  Most of them, he'd had to tear down the motor to
"harvest" .  When he presented them to the rebuilder dreaming of his
hundreds, they said: "Hell, we only want 3 or 4 of them!"*


On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 9:04 AM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
wrote:

> On 9/5/2014 11:51 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
>
>> On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Just replaced a part with a new part instead of a re manufactured part.
>>> Now
>>> have a core but no need to have it re manufactured.  Does any company buy
>>> cores?
>>>
>>>  Call your local junk yards.  And ask the shop you bought the new parts
>> from.  Unless you're talking about an engine or transmission or other
>> expensive thing, don't expect much.
>>
>
> It's a fly by wire throttle body.  New OEM it's is about $600, refurbs
> vary but are around $400 with core charge is about $30-50 bucks.  It also
> appears to be an indemand part with low supplies.  I ordered a new one
> online (horror story) and they don't do cores unless you buy a part.  I'd
> expect a auto parts store or junk yard to at most pay half.  I thought
> selling it directly to a refurb might make it worth the effort.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 06:17:32 2014
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF049CD155.ABFAE5CC-ON85257D4C.006E59EF-85257D4C.006F57D3@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 07:09:51 -0500
Thread-Index: AQGCCXEWCjIIrYC5dy834CKZeQeFZ5ySplRQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new
 question about the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you go with the thinner wall, I'd suggest substituting a short length of
heavy, next-size-up tubing for the slider, rather than just a ring.  A ring
will present almost a point load to the tube and over time tend to dent it
in places, hampering the sliding action and eventually causing a bend and
failure.

Karl

-----Original Message-----
eric@megageek.com

Yes. these are related questions...

First, I want to thank Miq once again for the great suggestion on moding up
my skidder.  It's coming out better than I expected.
While I'm still building this, I have a very important question about
material strength.
The last thing I need to build on my skidder is the bar that the chain rides
on.  Here is a link to the video in case you want to see it again...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvAtTP9-yUo

I need to know what size pipe do I need to use for this skidder bar.  The
two choices of pipe stock I have (I'll send another email about the steal
supply around here)  are...
2.25 ID steel pipe (16th wall thickness)  or a 1 5/8th ID steel pipe (8th
wall thickness.) Here is the problem, if I go with the 2.25 pipe, I can't
find any ring to go around it.  With the 1 5/8th pipe, I could find the ring
easily.
The bar will span about 64".  I don't know exactly what the weight one side
of the log will be (the pipe will only be point loaded for a brief
time.)

The second question is for anyone that bought one of Harbor Freight's pipe
bender.  My question is, do you have an neat ways to store it with all the
dies?

Thanks so much.  I can't wait to finish this skidder, I'll post photos once
I get it done.

Eric P
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <OF049CD155.ABFAE5CC-ON85257D4C.006E59EF-85257D4C.006F57D3@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 08:26:25 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new question
 about the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 4:03 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> The last thing I need to build on my skidder is the bar that the chain
> rides on.  Here is a link to the video in case you want to see it again...
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvAtTP9-yUo
>
> I need to know what size pipe do I need to use for this skidder bar.
>

It looks to me like the bar is something like 3/4" solid rod.  Not hollow
at all.  If the frame of the skidder is 2" square tubing, then the rod is
much less than that.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 07:18:33 2014
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Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2014 09:21:07 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new question
 about the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/8/2014 8:26 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 4:03 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> The last thing I need to build on my skidder is the bar that the chain
>> rides on.  Here is a link to the video in case you want to see it again...
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvAtTP9-yUo
>>
>> I need to know what size pipe do I need to use for this skidder bar.
>>
> It looks to me like the bar is something like 3/4" solid rod.  Not hollow
> at all.  If the frame of the skidder is 2" square tubing, then the rod is
> much less than that.
Second the square/box tubing, much stronger since the force should be 
mostly downward.  For the slider you could also use a section of the 
slightly larger square tubing with a hook/eye welded to it.  I don't 
think the final bend at the end is needed; that's only if you want the 
log to remain hanging when not in motion.

Peter T.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  8 08:18:57 2014
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2014 14:19:22 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new question
 about the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Piggybacking off Peter, if you used a piece of square tubing welded 90 degrees
to the slider, you could cut slots in it and size your chain so that you could
simply pull links into the slots for easy hook up an unload...

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Follow up on skidding trailer AND a new question
about the Harbor Freight 16 ton Pipe bender
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2014 09:21:07 -0400

On 9/8/2014 8:26 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> On Sun, Sep 7, 2014 at 4:03 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
>> The last thing I need to build on my skidder is the bar that the chain
>> rides on.  Here is a link to the video in case you want to see it again...
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvAtTP9-yUo
>>
>> I need to know what size pipe do I need to use for this skidder bar.
>>
> It looks to me like the bar is something like 3/4" solid rod.  Not hollow
> at all.  If the frame of the skidder is 2" square tubing, then the rod is
> much less than that.
Second the square/box tubing, much stronger since the force should be
mostly downward.  For the slider you could also use a section of the
slightly larger square tubing with a hook/eye welded to it.  I don't
think the final bend at the end is needed; that's only if you want the
log to remain hanging when not in motion.

Peter T.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
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_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 13:49:45 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] A mini drill press that doesn't suck?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I have a cheapo benchtop mini drill press that cost maybe $69.95.
It is sized right for my workbench, but it has an AC motor that stalls
easily, and
the quill is very sloppy, so the drill bit can jiggle side-to-side about
1/16".

Does anybody know if there is a source for a better model?  ALL the ones I
have ever seen in
stores, etc. are made in China, and their precision seems to be pretty
random- the display model could have a quill with no slop, but then the one
I bring home could be much worse.

And I have never seen a drill press that had the equivalent of gibs, which
would let me adjust away the slop.

I'd love to get a mini-mill to use instead, but those need at least 36" of
bench width, which I simply don't have.

Thanks,

Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 11 14:32:18 2014
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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 20:34:58 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 20:34:58 +0000
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A mini drill press that doesn't suck?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I'd love to get a mini-mill to use instead, but those need at least 36" of
> bench width, which I simply don't have.

How about a Sherline mill head (which I believe they will sell separately) attached to the column of your existing press?

Otherwise, I would ignore country of origin and instead look for a reputable maker.  Not everything made in China is junk.

Delta has apparently quit making their benchtop press, but I still see models from Jet and Rockwell.  They should be pretty good, even if they are from China.

Another thought would be looking into your existing press and see if it can be improved.  Maybe you can add shims to the fit between the quill and the housing; or even cut some tapered slots and add gibs.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 17:15:20 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A mini drill press that doesn't suck?
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I was browsing, and here are a couple of reviews on a Rockwell 10" benchtop
drill press:

*The RK7032 is a superior machine. The low price should not dissuade you
from considering getting one for yourself. You will discover that the unit
runs smoothly, quietly without noticeable vibration. *

vs.:

*I looked at several options for bench drill presses and landed on the
Rockwell. I wish I was able to inspect this drill press before purchasing
as I would not have made the purchase. The drill press at first glance
appears well made, but then I started to drill. The deal breaker for me was
the lack of precision in the drill arm. As you begin to lower the drill,
the arm has far to much "slop" making the drill bit wander off your
intended target. I plan on returning this unit. I could of just gone to
Harbor Freight for a cheap drill press that is made in China. *

This is why I would not buy a unit that I could not test in the store.

Doug

On Thu, Sep 11, 2014 at 4:34 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I'd love to get a mini-mill to use instead, but those need at least 36"
> of
> > bench width, which I simply don't have.
>
> How about a Sherline mill head (which I believe they will sell separately)
> attached to the column of your existing press?
>
> Otherwise, I would ignore country of origin and instead look for a
> reputable maker.  Not everything made in China is junk.
>
> Delta has apparently quit making their benchtop press, but I still see
> models from Jet and Rockwell.  They should be pretty good, even if they are
> from China.
>
> Another thought would be looking into your existing press and see if it
> can be improved.  Maybe you can add shims to the fit between the quill and
> the housing; or even cut some tapered slots and add gibs.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 22:10:25 -0400
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To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A mini drill press that doesn't suck?
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On 9/11/2014 1:49 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a cheapo benchtop mini drill press that cost maybe $69.95.
> It is sized right for my workbench, but it has an AC motor that stalls
> easily, and
> the quill is very sloppy, so the drill bit can jiggle side-to-side about
> 1/16".
>
> Does anybody know if there is a source for a better model?  ALL the ones I
> have ever seen in
> stores, etc. are made in China, and their precision seems to be pretty
> random- the display model could have a quill with no slop, but then the one
> I bring home could be much worse.
I've had luck with Grizzly.  Made in China but final milling are done in 
the US.  Or at least some equipment is.  Not as good as Delta or Jet but 
much better than Craftsman.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9WFBqTHa-3SKh8pyLHKP83BR9PVTWgWCwL5B3Qi+8S3GQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 21:57:40 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk]  A mini drill press that doesn't suck?
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Or used?  I have a very old Duro bench-top drill press that was my only
press till I got a larger (and even older) Atlas floor model.  It probably
cost under $35 in the late 40's, but it's solid cast iron and quite stable.
And old.  The motor is on rails and thus easy to change to add as much power
as desired.


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug
Braun

Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] A mini drill press that doesn't suck?

Hello,

Does anybody know if there is a source for a better model?  ALL the ones I
have ever seen in stores, etc. are made in China, and their precision seems
to be pretty
random- the display model could have a quill with no slop, but then the one
I bring home could be much worse.

Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 20:29:05 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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 <003b01cfce35$513dd8f0$f3b98ad0$@Ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk]  A mini drill press that doesn't suck?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If it's not too big you might consider the Grizzly G7943.  If you ignore 
the stupid chuck guard and the plastic face plate on the front of the 
head casting, it's identical to thousands and thousands of drill presses 
imported in the last 30 years or so.  I got a "Foremost" brand  at Tool 
Town nearly 30 years ago and it's served me well in my woodworking and 
some metalworking very well.  About three years ago I finally broke down 
and replaced the really horrible bearings in the quill, a job that took 
about two hours, and it really tightened up (and quieted down) the 
machine.  It's a basic, robust design and even if you find a no-name 
model used, Grizzly parts will probably fit.

Or like someone else mentioned, Old Arn is hard to beat, too.


On 9/11/2014 7:57 PM, Karl Vacek wrote:
> Does anybody know if there is a source for a better model?  ALL the ones I
> have ever seen in stores, etc. are made in China, and their precision seems
> to be pretty
> random- the display model could have a quill with no slop, but then the one
> I bring home could be much worse.
>
> Doug
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 18:31:01 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are 
about 15 years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately 
the one on my wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as you 
push the button to close it, it reverses and the light flashes.  Opening 
is normal.  If you hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button down it will 
close and stay down, but it will no longer close with the clicker.  When 
the problem first started the door would partially close before 
reversing, but now it doesn't even move.

I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the 
sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through a 
few turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's bad 
behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO business, who 
also installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I wasn't here, but 
according to my wife he lubricated everything with "something heavier 
than WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for a week.  I looked 
yesterday and he had turned the sensitivity pots all the way up to 11.  
So, $100 down the toilet.

The one on my side works flawlessly....so far.

This is a standard, chain drive, 1/2 HP rolling code unit, nothing fancy.

I can buy a new one at Home Depot or Amazon for $125 or so.  Before I 
do, anything else to check?

thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 21:40:39 -0400
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
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On Sep 14, 2014, at 9:31 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:

> As soon as you push the button to close it, it reverses and the light
flashes.  Opening is normal.  If you hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button
down it will close and stay down, but it will no longer close with the
clicker.

Have you replaced the batteries in the clicker?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Dave Cavanaugh'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>,
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 20:53:57 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac/QhNx18tW6HwuYTNmqH2HEtJj4/gAANgcg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
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Dave,

Since you have two of these you can do some comparisons.

Disconnect the openers from the doors, then open and close the doors by
hand, comparing how much force is needed at different positions.

With the doors disconnected, run the openers up and down with the remotes to
see if they both close correctly.

This will isolate the problem to either the door or the opener. 

Door rollers get worn, dirty and bent, so you may need to replace one or
more of them.

Give it a bit more diagnosis and then let us know what you find out.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Cavanaugh
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:31 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem

I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are about 15
years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately the one on my
wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as you push the button to
close it, it reverses and the light flashes.  Opening is normal.  If you
hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button down it will close and stay down,
but it will no longer close with the clicker.  When the problem first
started the door would partially close before reversing, but now it doesn't
even move.

I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the
sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through a few
turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's bad
behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO business, who also
installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I wasn't here, but
according to my wife he lubricated everything with "something heavier than
WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for a week.  I looked yesterday
and he had turned the sensitivity pots all the way up to 11.  
So, $100 down the toilet.

The one on my side works flawlessly....so far.

This is a standard, chain drive, 1/2 HP rolling code unit, nothing fancy.

I can buy a new one at Home Depot or Amazon for $125 or so.  Before I do,
anything else to check?

thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 14 20:01:33 2014
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Try the easy thing first and pull the release so you can open and close 
the door manually.  It should be easy if the springs are correct.  Hold 
the door open about half way then see if the door stays there.  It 
should.  If not, something is probably off with the springs.  This test 
should verify the door, springs, tracks, and hardware are all good.

While the door is disconnected, try the remote button to open and close 
the door.  There will be no load, so the carrier should slide easily on 
the track.  This will verify that the opener isn't dead.

I'm assuming you have nothing in the garage near the path between the 
sensors near the ground.  If you do, move it.

Based on the description of having to hold the wired button, I'd guess 
the problem might be an intermittent connection with the photo cell 
safety circuit.  When you continue to hold the button, it is overriding 
the safety features and forcing the door closed.  My photocells have a 
light on one side that lets me know all is good. Look at the light when 
all is clear and then step in the path and verify it changes.  Next, 
have a helper watch the light while you jiggle the wires at various 
places and see if the light changes - it shouldn't.  Also verify that 
the terminals holding the wires are secure and not corroded at the 
sensors and opener.  This should eliminate the safety reverse function 
from being the problem.

This should help eliminate issues with one opener.  The next step might 
be to sway parts between the two openers and see if you can find the 
problem.

Brian

On 9/14/2014 6:31 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are 
> about 15 years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately 
> the one on my wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as 
> you push the button to close it, it reverses and the light flashes.  
> Opening is normal.  If you hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button 
> down it will close and stay down, but it will no longer close with the 
> clicker.  When the problem first started the door would partially 
> close before reversing, but now it doesn't even move.
>
> I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the 
> sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through a 
> few turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's 
> bad behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO business, 
> who also installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I wasn't 
> here, but according to my wife he lubricated everything with 
> "something heavier than WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for 
> a week.  I looked yesterday and he had turned the sensitivity pots all 
> the way up to 11.  So, $100 down the toilet.
>
> The one on my side works flawlessly....so far.
>
> This is a standard, chain drive, 1/2 HP rolling code unit, nothing fancy.
>
> I can buy a new one at Home Depot or Amazon for $125 or so. Before I 
> do, anything else to check?
>
> thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 21:20:18 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:31 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
> I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are about 15
> years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately the one on my
> wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as you push the button to
> close it, it reverses and the light flashes.  Opening is normal.  If you
> hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button down it will close and stay down,
> but it will no longer close with the clicker.  When the problem first
> started the door would partially close before reversing, but now it doesn't
> even move.
>
> I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the
> sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through a few
> turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's bad
> behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO business, who also
> installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I wasn't here, but
> according to my wife he lubricated everything with "something heavier than
> WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for a week.  I looked yesterday
> and he had turned the sensitivity pots all the way up to 11.  So, $100 down
> the toilet.


Pull the cord to release the door.  Make sure it works right, your
problem could easily be a broken spring, a jammed roller, a bent track
or the like.  (Yes, I've see a broken door cause "one opener doesn't
work, the other does", more than once.)  Assuming the door is fine,
train your remote to open your wife's opener, and see if that makes a
difference.  If it does, change the battery in hers, train it to your
door, and call it day.  If it doesn't, go buy a new one.  I'm pretty
sure chamberlain are using the same mounting setup they have for many
years, so that it's a breeze to replace just the head.

If your door is broken, call another company to fix it.  And check the
other side, it may be failing the same way.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 19:36:01 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
 <CA+k5suos5kJXTZqxzkRLghqBX_9ZQBk6UHvaW6y8t0=NjOBrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the quick replies.

I disconnected the traveler from the door so there was no load on the 
opener and it still does exactly the same thing.  I re-checked the photo 
cells and they are good.  If I block the beam, the light in the receiver 
goes out.  Everything seems tight and well adjusted.

I think something has crapped out in the electronic guts of this thing.



On 9/14/2014 7:20 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:31 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
>> I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are about 15
>> years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately the one on my
>> wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as you push the button to
>> close it, it reverses and the light flashes.  Opening is normal.  If you
>> hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button down it will close and stay down,
>> but it will no longer close with the clicker.  When the problem first
>> started the door would partially close before reversing, but now it doesn't
>> even move.
>>
>> I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the
>> sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through a few
>> turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's bad
>> behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO business, who also
>> installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I wasn't here, but
>> according to my wife he lubricated everything with "something heavier than
>> WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for a week.  I looked yesterday
>> and he had turned the sensitivity pots all the way up to 11.  So, $100 down
>> the toilet.
>
> Pull the cord to release the door.  Make sure it works right, your
> problem could easily be a broken spring, a jammed roller, a bent track
> or the like.  (Yes, I've see a broken door cause "one opener doesn't
> work, the other does", more than once.)  Assuming the door is fine,
> train your remote to open your wife's opener, and see if that makes a
> difference.  If it does, change the battery in hers, train it to your
> door, and call it day.  If it doesn't, go buy a new one.  I'm pretty
> sure chamberlain are using the same mounting setup they have for many
> years, so that it's a breeze to replace just the head.
>
> If your door is broken, call another company to fix it.  And check the
> other side, it may be failing the same way.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 14 20:36:19 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Dave Cavanaugh'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "'shop-talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
 <CA+k5suos5kJXTZqxzkRLghqBX_9ZQBk6UHvaW6y8t0=NjOBrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <54165091.4010308@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 21:39:03 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac/QjbFDEIpW26MLRXOflyelKrCbqQAAGg+w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You can swap the board between openers to see if that is the problem. If it
is, the replacement board shouldn't cost over half the price of a new
opener.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Cavanaugh
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 9:36 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem

Thanks for all the quick replies.

I disconnected the traveler from the door so there was no load on the opener
and it still does exactly the same thing.  I re-checked the photo cells and
they are good.  If I block the beam, the light in the receiver goes out.
Everything seems tight and well adjusted.

I think something has crapped out in the electronic guts of this thing.



On 9/14/2014 7:20 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:31 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
wrote:
>> I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are 
>> about 15 years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately 
>> the one on my wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as 
>> you push the button to close it, it reverses and the light flashes.  
>> Opening is normal.  If you hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button 
>> down it will close and stay down, but it will no longer close with 
>> the clicker.  When the problem first started the door would partially 
>> close before reversing, but now it doesn't even move.
>>
>> I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the 
>> sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through 
>> a few turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's 
>> bad behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO 
>> business, who also installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I 
>> wasn't here, but according to my wife he lubricated everything with 
>> "something heavier than WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for 
>> a week.  I looked yesterday and he had turned the sensitivity pots 
>> all the way up to 11.  So, $100 down the toilet.
>
> Pull the cord to release the door.  Make sure it works right, your 
> problem could easily be a broken spring, a jammed roller, a bent track 
> or the like.  (Yes, I've see a broken door cause "one opener doesn't 
> work, the other does", more than once.)  Assuming the door is fine, 
> train your remote to open your wife's opener, and see if that makes a 
> difference.  If it does, change the battery in hers, train it to your 
> door, and call it day.  If it doesn't, go buy a new one.  I'm pretty 
> sure chamberlain are using the same mounting setup they have for many 
> years, so that it's a breeze to replace just the head.
>
> If your door is broken, call another company to fix it.  And check the 
> other side, it may be failing the same way.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 14 21:31:52 2014
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From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: 'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
 <CA+k5suos5kJXTZqxzkRLghqBX_9ZQBk6UHvaW6y8t0=NjOBrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <54165091.4010308@frontier.com> <005401cfd08e$37631ed0$a6295c70$@com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I decided to just get a new logic board.  After a little poking around 
on the Chamberlain and other sites I found the replacement. You can get 
them on Amazon, of course....


On 9/14/2014 7:39 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
> You can swap the board between openers to see if that is the problem. If it
> is, the replacement board shouldn't cost over half the price of a new
> opener.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
> Cavanaugh
> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 9:36 PM
> To: shop-talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
>
> Thanks for all the quick replies.
>
> I disconnected the traveler from the door so there was no load on the opener
> and it still does exactly the same thing.  I re-checked the photo cells and
> they are good.  If I block the beam, the light in the receiver goes out.
> Everything seems tight and well adjusted.
>
> I think something has crapped out in the electronic guts of this thing.
>
>
>
> On 9/14/2014 7:20 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
>> On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:31 PM, Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
> wrote:
>>> I have a pair of Chamberlain PD200 openers in the garage.  They are
>>> about 15 years old and until just recently have been flawless. Lately
>>> the one on my wife's side (naturally) has gotten flaky.  As soon as
>>> you push the button to close it, it reverses and the light flashes.
>>> Opening is normal.  If you hold the wall mounted (hardwired) button
>>> down it will close and stay down, but it will no longer close with
>>> the clicker.  When the problem first started the door would partially
>>> close before reversing, but now it doesn't even move.
>>>
>>> I adjusted the photocells, lubricated everything, and adjusted the
>>> sensitivity pots and turned the open and close distance pots through
>>> a few turns.  For a few cycles it worked ok and then reverted to it's
>>> bad behavior.  I called the local residential/commercial GDO
>>> business, who also installed the opener in my shop a few years ago. I
>>> wasn't here, but according to my wife he lubricated everything with
>>> "something heavier than WD40", "adjusted" it and left.  It worked for
>>> a week.  I looked yesterday and he had turned the sensitivity pots
>>> all the way up to 11.  So, $100 down the toilet.
>> Pull the cord to release the door.  Make sure it works right, your
>> problem could easily be a broken spring, a jammed roller, a bent track
>> or the like.  (Yes, I've see a broken door cause "one opener doesn't
>> work, the other does", more than once.)  Assuming the door is fine,
>> train your remote to open your wife's opener, and see if that makes a
>> difference.  If it does, change the battery in hers, train it to your
>> door, and call it day.  If it doesn't, go buy a new one.  I'm pretty
>> sure chamberlain are using the same mounting setup they have for many
>> years, so that it's a breeze to replace just the head.
>>
>> If your door is broken, call another company to fix it.  And check the
>> other side, it may be failing the same way.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 14 22:21:13 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
 <CA+k5suos5kJXTZqxzkRLghqBX_9ZQBk6UHvaW6y8t0=NjOBrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2014 21:23:37 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/QlfqX/4a6ovsHSVao9k4BN1HT2wABXWHgAABQqsA=
 FILETIME=[DB2DEF50:01CFD09C]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

David,

I had a Craftsman and the board had a blown circuit board track.  I jumped
that one and it's been fine for over a year.  Take a good look at the board
before you buy a new one.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Cavanaugh
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:35 PM
To: 'shop-talk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem

I decided to just get a new logic board.  After a little poking around 
on the Chamberlain and other sites I found the replacement. You can get 
them on Amazon, of course....
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 06:31:24 2014
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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 08:22:56 -0400
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com> <rDuM1o00m0NyJgq01DuPKE>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 09:53 PM 9/14/2014, Pat Horne wrote:

 >Door rollers get worn, dirty and bent, so you may need to replace 
one or more of them.

Dave,

Have you oiled the rollers.  I know I have to oil my rollers every 2 
or 3 years.  If not the garage doors get
harder to open.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
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 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 08:18:09 2014
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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 10:18:00 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <54164155.8020401@frontier.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

All the advice about lubricating rollers and checking for binding is 
all good and worthwhile to do.  However, with my Chamberlain openers, 
when the light blinks and it refuses to close, it means the safety 
beam system is detecting an obstruction.  It could be a beam 
alignment issue, it could be dirt or something on the lens.  It could 
be a fault in the circuit board.  In my experience, though, it is 
never related to the door binding.  On my openers the door may 
reverse because of binding, but this does not  cause the light to 
blink.  The fact that the  problem went away for a week when the 
service guy came leads me to believe that it is not a fault in the 
board.  It is more likely to be a beam alignment or cleaning issue.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 08:32:16 2014
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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 10:31:25 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I second the beam issue.  I've had occasions before where the beam was
barely aligned, but the action of the door starting must have shook it
or flexed it off.  I'd watch the lights on the beam receiver as the
door is operated and see what happens, or I'd go ahead and clean and
re-align the beam, making sure it's centered.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> All the advice about lubricating rollers and checking for binding is all
> good and worthwhile to do.  However, with my Chamberlain openers, when the
> light blinks and it refuses to close, it means the safety beam system is
> detecting an obstruction.  It could be a beam alignment issue, it could be
> dirt or something on the lens.  It could be a fault in the circuit board.
> In my experience, though, it is never related to the door binding.  On my
> openers the door may reverse because of binding, but this does not  cause
> the light to blink.  The fact that the  problem went away for a week when
> the service guy came leads me to believe that it is not a fault in the
> board.  It is more likely to be a beam alignment or cleaning issue.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Good point about the 'beam'.  My door is south facing and the sun at just 
the right angle will prevent the door from closing.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 10:31 AM
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem

> I second the beam issue.  I've had occasions before where the beam was
> barely aligned, but the action of the door starting must have shook it
> or flexed it off.  I'd watch the lights on the beam receiver as the
> door is operated and see what happens, or I'd go ahead and clean and
> re-align the beam, making sure it's centered.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> 
> wrote:
>> All the advice about lubricating rollers and checking for binding is all
>> good and worthwhile to do.  However, with my Chamberlain openers, when 
>> the
>> light blinks and it refuses to close, it means the safety beam system is
>> detecting an obstruction.  It could be a beam alignment issue, it could 
>> be
>> dirt or something on the lens.  It could be a fault in the circuit board.
>> In my experience, though, it is never related to the door binding.  On my
>> openers the door may reverse because of binding, but this does not  cause
>> the light to blink.  The fact that the  problem went away for a week when
>> the service guy came leads me to believe that it is not a fault in the
>> board.  It is more likely to be a beam alignment or cleaning issue.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage@comcast.net
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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At our current house, the sensors would act up when the sun was shining on one
of them at just the right angle.  I ended up having to make a shade out of a
piece of disposable cutting board to make it reliable.

-Paul

> On Sep 15, 2014, at 4:31 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I second the beam issue.  I've had occasions before where the beam was
> barely aligned, but the action of the door starting must have shook it
> or flexed it off.  I'd watch the lights on the beam receiver as the
> door is operated and see what happens, or I'd go ahead and clean and
> re-align the beam, making sure it's centered.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
>> On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 10:18 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:
>> All the advice about lubricating rollers and checking for binding is all
>> good and worthwhile to do.  However, with my Chamberlain openers, when the
>> light blinks and it refuses to close, it means the safety beam system is
>> detecting an obstruction.  It could be a beam alignment issue, it could be
>> dirt or something on the lens.  It could be a fault in the circuit board.
>> In my experience, though, it is never related to the door binding.  On my
>> openers the door may reverse because of binding, but this does not  cause
>> the light to blink.  The fact that the  problem went away for a week when
>> the service guy came leads me to believe that it is not a fault in the
>> board.  It is more likely to be a beam alignment or cleaning issue.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>> _______________________________
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 08:53:56 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 10:43:49 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/15/2014 10:43:51, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage door opener problem
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Put me down as a "+1" for the sensor.

These things can fail in lots of ways.

I would remove them from the doors, then, using a short test leads, 
reconnection them to the opener with them 6" apart.  Then try the opener.


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 15 17:11:22 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 19:01:34 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/15/2014 19:01:10, Serialize complete at
 09/15/2014 19:01:10
Subject: [Shop-talk] Low and behold, the new log skidder is born!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Special thanks again to Miq!

Here it is, after an afternoon of welding scraps, it lives and works 
better that I can image.

Note, I do plan on changing the sliding ring.  I didn't have anything 
better at the time.  Also, some of the welds are disappointing, but that 
is scrap steel for you!

Here is the link...

http://tinyurl.com/newlogskidder

As I noted on the page, I can now fell, skid, cut, split, and stack 6 
cords of wood in about 5 hours BY MYSELF!  (And the help of a wood 
processor, ATV, and tractor.)

I couldn't do it without you all!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 16 15:32:05 2014
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 17:29:04 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Low and behold, the new log skidder is born!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/15/2014 7:01 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Special thanks again to Miq!
>
> Here it is, after an afternoon of welding scraps, it lives and works
> better that I can image.
>
> Note, I do plan on changing the sliding ring.  I didn't have anything
> better at the time.  Also, some of the welds are disappointing, but that
> is scrap steel for you!
>
> Here is the link...
>
> http://tinyurl.com/newlogskidder
>
> As I noted on the page, I can now fell, skid, cut, split, and stack 6
> cords of wood in about 5 hours BY MYSELF!  (And the help of a wood
> processor, ATV, and tractor.)
>
> I couldn't do it without you all!
>
Just need to add a "like" button the web site.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 09:02:22 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] using iphone5 in the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

shop content... I use my phone in the shop

my Iphone5 is offering me an update to IOS 8.0    is that something I want to
do ??

john

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 20 10:19:46 2014
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References: <CAB92118BF564885B1AAB01EF175B712@johnslaptop>
From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 09:22:09 -0700
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] using iphone5 in the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Short answer:  No.

Longer answer:  look online at the new "features" and security changes
being offered in 8, do any of them improve anything you are doing on the
iphone?  Then check out the Appstore and look at all the apps that you use
frequently, which of them have been recently updated for iOS8, do any of
them have critical features that you need to have that require iOS 8?  Also
pay heed to the change in how Apple decided to reorganize the photos,
specifically, Camera Roll is no longer available in iOS 8, almost forcing
you to pay for additional storage on iCloud.



--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions

On Sat, Sep 20, 2014 at 7:02 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> shop content... I use my phone in the shop
>
> my Iphone5 is offering me an update to IOS 8.0    is that something I want
> to
> do ??
>
> john
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 13:31:20 -0400
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone in or near Charlotte?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a favor, email if you can make a drive for me.

Thanks.

Scott
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 23 17:18:09 2014
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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 16:20:52 -0700
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] remote tank sensing, the epilog
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I wrote: Hi. A friend asked me to come take a look when their water 
system failed recently. Problem was easy to diagnose and fix (a leak 
caused the tanks to drain out faster than they filled up. Leak fixed and 
the tanks refilled within a few days) and I [foolishly] offered to help 
set something up so it won't happen again as catastrophically. The 
situation: there are some spring fed storage tanks about 50-100 feet 
away from the nearest source of power. They typically remain full or 
nearly so and there is a system to keep them full (manual float valves). 
I would like to add some level sensors in the tank to indicate when the 
tank is less than 1/2-3/4 full (something might be awry) and another 
when the tank is almost empty to disable the (remote from the tanks, but 
located near power) booster pumps to prevent them from running dry and 
possibly overheating. The most straightforward would be to put sensors 
in the tanks and run wires to relays at the pumps and indicators, but 
that would require trenching. Anyone know of a good source for some 
battery operated transmitters and battery or wired receivers? These are 
rather slow changing signals, so something that transmitted only at a 
change or had a transmit interval that could be set to a long time would 
be better for battery life (but changing batteries isn't that big a 
deal, just a pain). Thank, o all knowing list!!

Thanks all for the excellent suggestions but in the end the problem got 
easier than I originally thought it was.  Seems there was an empty 
conduit buried along with the original water pipes (yaaaaaay thinking 
ahead!!!!) so I went with a simple brute force solution.  2 float valves 
(one for a 'not full' alarm and one to disable the pump if the water 
level dropped too low) in each tank (one for irrigation, one for house 
water) and it works fine.

Mark Miller
waiting for rain in dry Northern California or all the above is moot anyway.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 12:58:18 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings 
which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I 
wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings 
more readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was 
thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure 
either would be durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?

Peter T.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 11:20:49 2014
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 13:23:37 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I suggest:

1: Clean real well with solvent.
2: Paint over w/ black epoxy paint (brush or spray).
3: Wait until semi-dry, then wipe off excess with cloth lightly dampened
with thinner.

Doug

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 12:58 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
wrote:

> I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings
> which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I
> wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings more
> readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was thinking
> either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure either would be
> durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?
>
> Peter T.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@
> dougbraun.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 17:04:50 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 18:55:21 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/24/2014 18:54:28, Serialize complete at
 09/24/2014 18:54:28
Subject: [Shop-talk] What to do with worn grinding wheels?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I was wondering if anyone had any creative ideas for used and worn 
grinding wheels / stones.

I'm sure we all generate alot of them, what do you do with them?

If the arbor sizes were standardized, it would be great to move my 9" 
wheels to my 6" handheld!  8>)  But no such luck?

Do you guys recycle them somehow?  Or just chuck 'em?

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 17:34:02 2014
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 16:36:51 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>,  Shop Talk
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5422F82A.9000303@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Depending on the depth of the markings, you may just be able to wipe in 
some paint.  First clean well with paint thinner and let dry. Then paint 
in the markings and wipe off with a paper towel.  If you wipe too much 
out of the grooves, try one of the blue shop towel type of paper towel 
around a piece of wood so it doesn't go in the grooves (think sanding 
block).  This also works for the hard to see timing marks on the front 
of an engine, except with white paint.

You can use black for standard and red for metric.

Brian

On 9/24/2014 9:58 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
> I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped 
> markings which are hard to read when your under the car with low 
> lighting.  I wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make 
> the markings more readable, similar to the etched easy to read 
> sockets.  I was thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun 
> blueing.  Not sure either would be durable on a chromed tool. Has 
> anyone done this?
>
> Peter T.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 20:25:05 2014
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  <54235593.4060603@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 21:27:53 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's the best answer I found for this problem:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Socket-Labels-for-mechanics-the-home-craftsman-/280542105111?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

I have used a product that seems like this and they stay on the sockets
very well . . one wouldn't want to SOAK them in solvent but they can handle
normal usage.
Tony

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Depending on the depth of the markings, you may just be able to wipe in
> some paint.  First clean well with paint thinner and let dry. Then paint in
> the markings and wipe off with a paper towel.  If you wipe too much out of
> the grooves, try one of the blue shop towel type of paper towel around a
> piece of wood so it doesn't go in the grooves (think sanding block).  This
> also works for the hard to see timing marks on the front of an engine,
> except with white paint.
>
> You can use black for standard and red for metric.
>
> Brian
>
>
> On 9/24/2014 9:58 AM, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
>
>> I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings
>> which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I
>> wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings more
>> readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was thinking
>> either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure either would be
>> durable on a chromed tool. Has anyone done this?
>>
>> Peter T.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@
>> earthlink.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 24 23:37:32 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5422F82A.9000303@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 22:39:55 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/YGMYEOlAzuHUdQGSeV0RoSh+umAAaamlA
 FILETIME=[313647B0:01CFD883]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What. . . you guys don't just look at the nut/bolt and grab the right socket
every time?   <grin/sarcasm>

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
J. Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:58 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings 
which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I 
wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings 
more readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was 
thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure 
either would be durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?

Peter T.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 06:04:09 -0700
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>, 'Shop Talk'
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Jack,

Maybe some of us are getting older and the near vision is not quite what it used to be.  :-)

Actually I can identify most fractional sockets and nuts from across the room, but I have a much harder time with the metric fasteners...
 
best,

doug
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R



________________________________
 From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
 

What. . . you guys don't just look at the nut/bolt and grab the right socket
every time?   <grin/sarcasm>

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
J. Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:58 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings 
which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I 
wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings 
more readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was 
thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure 
either would be durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?

Peter T.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com



_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 08:49:39 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 07:49:57 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/YwTLSQg3B79PERIGVDUXKqz31WQADTXwA
 FILETIME=[0930E430:01CFD8D0]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug,

 

I was stunned as a kid, when I was working with my Dad that he simply asked
for the size socket or wrench he needed.  I can look at a nut/bolt and
mostly grab the right size tool, but I can't identify and name the size on
sight consistently.  I'm not sure how Dad did it.  Fortunately for me, my
son never did mechanical work with his grandpa, or he would know what a
failure his Dad is.  <Kidding>

 

I'm thinking that Standard is easier 'cause it's what we grew up with.  I've
done a fair bit of design work in metric and while I can "think" in metric,
it's not anywhere near the same as my ability to think in standard.

 

I also know what you mean about the vision thing.  Glasses on, glasses off,
<grrrrr>

 

Jack

 

  _____  

From: old dirtbeard [mailto:dirtbeard@pacbell.net] 
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:04 AM
To: Jack Brooks; 'Shop Talk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

 

Hi Jack,

 

Maybe some of us are getting older and the near vision is not quite what it
used to be.  :-)

 

Actually I can identify most fractional sockets and nuts from across the
room, but I have a much harder time with the metric fasteners...

 

best,


doug

________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550

'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R

 

  _____  

From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.


What. . . you guys don't just look at the nut/bolt and grab the right socket
every time?  <grin/sarcasm>

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
J. Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:58 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings 
which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I 
wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings 
more readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was 
thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure 
either would be durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?

Peter T.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com

 


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 09:28:16 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:17:54 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/25/2014 11:17:56, Serialize complete at
 09/25/2014 11:17:56
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Metric is easy to ID by sight...


"Give me a 12mm."  (I find that 9 times out of ten, it's a 12mm.)  8>)

If it looks much bigger, "give me the 14mm."


Of course, the 17mm is always too small and the 19mm is too big, and for 
some reason, no metric set comes with an 18mm!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 09:38:43 2014
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 10:41:27 -0500
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To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>, Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a box of Testor model paint ( do kids still build models?)  and
painted a different color strip on each socket and wrench.  I can pick out the
right socket or wrench from across the room. The paint strip lasts for years
and is easily touch up.

Bob Nogueira

> On Sep 25, 2014, at 8:04 AM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Jack,
>
> Maybe some of us are getting older and the near vision is not quite what it
used to be.  :-)
>
> Actually I can identify most fractional sockets and nuts from across the
room, but I have a much harder time with the metric fasteners...
>
> best,
>
> doug
> ________________
> '72 BSA B50SS
> '74 Moto Guzzi 850T
>
> '01 HD XHL 883
> '03 GMC Cargo Van
> '07 Aprilia SXV 550
> '13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
> To: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
>
>
> What. . . you guys don't just look at the nut/bolt and grab the right
socket
> every time?   <grin/sarcasm>
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Peter
> J. Thomas
> Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:58 AM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
>
> I have a lot of various sockets and wrenches that have stamped markings
> which are hard to read when your under the car with low lighting.  I
> wondering if anyone has "blackened" their tools to make the markings
> more readable, similar to the etched easy to read sockets.  I was
> thinking either use liquid electrical tape or gun blueing.  Not sure
> either would be durable on a chromed tool.  Has anyone done this?
>
> Peter T.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 09:40:14 2014
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From: "William Engle Sr" <whesr@iglou.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <BLU436-SMTP4938B71AE757F99EC57A1EA8BE0@phx.gbl>
 <OF945A85F7.EC09426C-ON85257D5E.0054FDFC-85257D5E.005529B9@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 10:49:41 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac/Y1bv0mSc60TIPR6yrsoxkc1RnEAABfC2Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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15 and 18 mm are used more in the US than the rest of the world.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
eric@megageek.com
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 11:18 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.

Metric is easy to ID by sight...


"Give me a 12mm."  (I find that 9 times out of ten, it's a 12mm.)  8>)

If it looks much bigger, "give me the 14mm."


Of course, the 17mm is always too small and the 19mm is too big, and for 
some reason, no metric set comes with an 18mm!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 10:50:18 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

ON SALE NOW FOR $3.50 FREE POSTAGE; INCH & METRIC


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Socket-Labels-for-mechanics-the-home-craftsman-/280542105111?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


>
>
>> _______________________________________________
>>  ____________________________________
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:50:56 -0400
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That is *exactly* how I determine metric socket sizes, and I too
continuously wonder why there isn't an 18mm.

On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 11:17 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Metric is easy to ID by sight...
>
>
> "Give me a 12mm."  (I find that 9 times out of ten, it's a 12mm.)  8>)
>
> If it looks much bigger, "give me the 14mm."
>
>
> Of course, the 17mm is always too small and the 19mm is too big, and for
> some reason, no metric set comes with an 18mm!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
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From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  life is so much simpler with Whitworth cars and tools :)

     mike
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 10:04:42 2014
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 09:03:12 -0700
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
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On 9/25/2014 7:49 AM, William Engle Sr wrote:
> 15 and 18 mm are used more in the US than the rest of the world.

There's different standards on what size bolt head you get with a given 
size threaded shank.

F'rinstance, a Japanese M8 bolt will be a 12mm head, but a Euro (or 
usually US) DIN M8 bolt will be a 13mm head and you'll pretty much never 
find anything that takes a 12mm socket on a German car.

For some years Detroit, in particular, chose their metric fastener head 
sizes to be close enough to let you use SAE wrenches - and while we all 
know to grab an 8mm for a 5/16 head and vice-versa, 1/2in fits most 
13mm, 5/8 usually fits 16mm, 19mm and 3/4 are interchangeable as are 7/8 
and 22mm, the true Detroit oddity of the '80s was the M6 fastener with 
the 11mm head sized to fit a 7/16 wrench.

Many older M12 fasteners and lots of parts-store M12s are 19mm head but 
I think most every mfr now (as true of my BMWs as my Suburban) uses 18mm 
heads on their M12s.

If you're wrenching on any German product in the last dozen years you're 
going to need a set of 'outie' Torx sockets, though...

John.
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Elton E. \(Tony\) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5422F82A.9000303@comcast.net> <54235593.4060603@earthlink.net>
 <CA+7Nz3r+A=H4eTZi+-ZBfLZu8s0RRbMcqi7WTCq06+egabFEzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CA+7Nz3orZfBfj1+0qOPnWPDLySV3E8fUXRt-SPQdXG_+f+OBTA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:09:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Fwd: Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped
 markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've tried those and they are pretty good... but eventually they peel off... 
I've had better luck with making my own
with the vinyl labels from a Brothers or Dymo label maker... just get the 
sockets real clean before applying

none are really adequate when your sockets are in rows in the tool box... 
then you depend on your visual references

like in the 7th - 9th picture on link below...  I really like the IR impacts 
pic 10 or so that have the sizes etched in the socket wall

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/tools/NEWTOOLPAGE.HTML


john


-----Original Message----- 
From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 10:50 AM
To: Shop Talk List
Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] Fwd: Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped 
markings.

ON SALE NOW FOR $3.50 FREE POSTAGE; INCH & METRIC


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Socket-Labels-for-mechanics-the-home-craftsman-/280542105111?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


>
>
>> _______________________________________________
>>  ____________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 10:07:54 2014
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> For some years Detroit, in particular, chose their metric fastener head
> sizes to be close enough to let you use SAE wrenches - and while we all
> know to grab an 8mm for a 5/16 head and vice-versa, 1/2in fits most
> 13mm, 5/8 usually fits 16mm, 19mm and 3/4 are interchangeable as are 7/8
> and 22mm, the true Detroit oddity of the '80s was the M6 fastener with
> the 11mm head sized to fit a 7/16 wrench.

9/16 is usually too tight on a 14mm head but you will, at times, find 
14mm fastener heads that were obviously sized to fit a 9/16 wrench, too.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 10:54:54 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 12:44:22 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/25/2014 12:44:33, Serialize complete at
 09/25/2014 12:44:33
Subject: [Shop-talk] Windows for shop doors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I want to add a window to my shop door.  It's a standard metal insulated 
door.  Is there a place I can get a window kit to put this in?

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF6FC75CAD.AA9FF6EF-ON85257D5E.005CFAE3-85257D5E.005D147B@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 12:05:39 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk]  Windows for shop doors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

any of the commercial door sellers can get you a door window "kit"   from 
12"x12" to a half door window... with plain or wired safety glass
check YP for some construction material suppliers... I doubt that any of the 
box stores will carry them.  Then it's just a metabo slicing wheel and a 
screw driver

john

-----Original Message----- 
From: eric@megageek.com
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 11:44 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] Windows for shop doors

I want to add a window to my shop door.  It's a standard metal insulated
door.  Is there a place I can get a window kit to put this in?

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 13:23:22 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/25/2014 11:41 AM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I bought a box of Testor model paint ( do kids still build models?)  and
> painted a different color strip on each socket and wrench.  I can pick out the
> right socket or wrench from across the room. The paint strip lasts for years
> and is easily touch up.
>
> Bob Nogueira

Then I'd assume Testor model paint would work well with the stamped 
sizes.   I was leaning towards epoxy appliance paint, or auto touchup.  
I bottle of Testor's is easy to find and cheap.  Appliance paint comes 
in spray cans and the auto touch is not cheap.  One bottle of black 
Testor would handle my entire tool box and can leave it in the tool box 
for new purchases or touch-ups.  Thanks!!!

BTW, the color stripe won't work for me.  Not only have I lost my near 
vision, but I'm also color blind.  One tip to add, I use cheap womens 
reading glasses in the shop.  Womens reading glasses are generally 
larger than mens and double as safety glasses since they're plastic.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 12:07:18 2014
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 14:02:08 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>, Shop-talk
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate.  Cheap plastic 
glasses will be made of different plastic that is also probably 
thinner.  Besides the obvious absence of side shields, the reading 
glasses would not pass the tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of 
course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you 
are trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will 
do the job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, 
not so much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of 
polycarbonate.  I think they are closer to qualifying as safety 
glasses, minus side shields.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:


>BTW, the color stripe won't work for me.  Not only have I lost my 
>near vision, but I'm also color blind.  One tip to add, I use cheap 
>womens reading glasses in the shop.  Womens reading glasses are 
>generally larger than mens and double as safety glasses since they're plastic.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 12:19:53 2014
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 11:20:52 -0700
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  I use only bi-focal safety glasses now.  Local woodshop sells them at 
$5 each on sale at least once a month (woodcraft.com) normally $10/each.

http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/safreadglas.html  has them down to $3.10 
each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.

I have many pairs now :)

     mike

  On 9/25/2014 11:02 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate. Cheap plastic 
> glasses will be made of different plastic that is also probably 
> thinner.  Besides the obvious absence of side shields, the reading 
> glasses would not pass the tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of 
> course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you are 
> trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will do the 
> job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, not so 
> much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of polycarbonate.  I 
> think they are closer to qualifying as safety glasses, minus side 
> shields.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
> At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
>
>
>> BTW, the color stripe won't work for me. Not only have I lost my near 
>> vision, but I'm also color blind. One tip to add, I use cheap womens 
>> reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 14:32:01 -0400
From: Larry Spector <lspector@gmail.com>
To: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Last time I bought prescription glasses, I went to Lenscrafters and asked
for their safety glass collection. They had a handful of frames with
removable side shields, and I had them made with bifocal lenses and safety
glass.

-Larry

On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com> wrote:

>  I use only bi-focal safety glasses now.  Local woodshop sells them at $5
> each on sale at least once a month (woodcraft.com) normally $10/each.
>
> http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/safreadglas.html  has them down to $3.10
> each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.
>
> I have many pairs now :)
>
>     mike
>
>  On 9/25/2014 11:02 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
>
>> Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate. Cheap plastic glasses
>> will be made of different plastic that is also probably thinner.  Besides
>> the obvious absence of side shields, the reading glasses would not pass the
>> tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of course, they are better than
>> nothing.  I guess it depends what you are trying to protect against.  For
>> light stuff, I'm sure they will do the job.  For serious projectiles like a
>> shattered grinding wheel, not so much.  I have prescription glasses that
>> are made of polycarbonate.  I think they are closer to qualifying as safety
>> glasses, minus side shields.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>>
>> At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
>>
>>
>>  BTW, the color stripe won't work for me. Not only have I lost my near
>>> vision, but I'm also color blind. One tip to add, I use cheap womens
>>> reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> options/shop-talk/lspector@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/25/2014 2:02 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate. Cheap plastic 
> glasses will be made of different plastic that is also probably 
> thinner.  Besides the obvious absence of side shields, the reading 
> glasses would not pass the tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of 
> course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you are 
> trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will do the 
> job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, not so 
> much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of polycarbonate.  I 
> think they are closer to qualifying as safety glasses, minus side 
> shields.

I have polycarb shooting glasses for safety and I use them for heavy 
duty tasks I wont put my face close enough to need reading lens. However 
I'm pretty sure the readers are polycarb and thicker than cheap glasses 
because its a lens.  You're right not real safety glasses but good 
enough for light close work and reading manuals.

>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
> At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
>
>
>> BTW, the color stripe won't work for me. Not only have I lost my near 
>> vision, but I'm also color blind. One tip to add, I use cheap womens 
>> reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses are generally 
>> larger than mens and double as safety glasses since they're plastic.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 kM3BTyQZlTigA==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/25/2014 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour wrote:
>  I use only bi-focal safety glasses now.  Local woodshop sells them at 
> $5 each on sale at least once a month (woodcraft.com) normally $10/each.
>
> http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/safreadglas.html  has them down to 
> $3.10 each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.
>
> I have many pairs now :)

Thanks,  ugly is fine since I''m ugly.

>
>     mike
>
>  On 9/25/2014 11:02 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
>> Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate. Cheap plastic 
>> glasses will be made of different plastic that is also probably 
>> thinner.  Besides the obvious absence of side shields, the reading 
>> glasses would not pass the tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of 
>> course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you 
>> are trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will 
>> do the job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, 
>> not so much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of 
>> polycarbonate.  I think they are closer to qualifying as safety 
>> glasses, minus side shields.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>>
>> At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
>>
>>
>>> BTW, the color stripe won't work for me. Not only have I lost my 
>>> near vision, but I'm also color blind. One tip to add, I use cheap 
>>> womens reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 17:38:58 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 11:03 AM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:
> On 9/25/2014 7:49 AM, William Engle Sr wrote:
>>
>> 15 and 18 mm are used more in the US than the rest of the world.
>
>
> There's different standards on what size bolt head you get with a given size
> threaded shank.
>
> F'rinstance, a Japanese M8 bolt will be a 12mm head, but a Euro (or usually
> US) DIN M8 bolt will be a 13mm head and you'll pretty much never find
> anything that takes a 12mm socket on a German car.
>
> For some years Detroit, in particular, chose their metric fastener head
> sizes to be close enough to let you use SAE wrenches

There are also all the lovely 80s stuff that has metric heads and SAE
threads, to meet some silly contract requirement.  I do not miss
working on that crap, at all.

For the original question, when I was running a shop w/ a quick lube
lane, which used cheap shop-owned tools, we used a tire crayon to
color in the etching, which worked fine, but wasn't terribly durable.
Wiping some model paint in the depressions would probably work great.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 18:42:18 -0500
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.1.1
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <5422F82A.9000303@comcast.net> <54235593.4060603@earthlink.net>
 <CA+7Nz3r+A=H4eTZi+-ZBfLZu8s0RRbMcqi7WTCq06+egabFEzA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Fwd: Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped
 markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ordered!

On 9/25/2014 10:50 AM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
> ON SALE NOW FOR $3.50 FREE POSTAGE; INCH & METRIC
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Socket-Labels-for-mechanics-the-home-craftsman-/280542105111?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 18:28:28 2014
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 20:27:26 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <5422F82A.9000303@comcast.net> <54235593.4060603@earthlink.net>
 <CA+7Nz3r+A=H4eTZi+-ZBfLZu8s0RRbMcqi7WTCq06+egabFEzA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Fwd: Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped
 markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I did too.  It was actually only $3.25.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 07:42 PM 9/25/2014, steve hochschild wrote:
>Ordered!
>
>On 9/25/2014 10:50 AM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
>>ON SALE NOW FOR $3.50 FREE POSTAGE; INCH & METRIC
>>
>>
>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Socket-Labels-for-mechanics-the-home-craftsman-/280542105111?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 25 18:38:27 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 19:41:20 -0500
References: <5422F82A.9000303@comcast.net> <54235593.4060603@earthlink.net>,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk] Fwd: Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped
 markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Ordered!
>


Me as well this morning after seeing the thread with the link. If nothing else
these will help with the socket ID in the back of my still TOO DARK shop.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2014 21:18:26 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blackening sockets/wrenches stamped markings.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/25/2014 2:20 PM, Mike Rambour wrote:
>  I use only bi-focal safety glasses now.  Local woodshop sells them at 
> $5 each on sale at least once a month (woodcraft.com) normally $10/each.
>
> http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/safreadglas.html  has them down to 
> $3.10 each for really ugly ones, the average is about $8 on there.
>
> I have many pairs now :)
>
>     mike

Ordered three pair of the cheap ones.

>
>  On 9/25/2014 11:02 AM, Steven Trovato wrote:
>> Safety glasses are usually made of polycarbonate. Cheap plastic 
>> glasses will be made of different plastic that is also probably 
>> thinner.  Besides the obvious absence of side shields, the reading 
>> glasses would not pass the tests to qualify as safety glasses.  Of 
>> course, they are better than nothing.  I guess it depends what you 
>> are trying to protect against.  For light stuff, I'm sure they will 
>> do the job.  For serious projectiles like a shattered grinding wheel, 
>> not so much.  I have prescription glasses that are made of 
>> polycarbonate.  I think they are closer to qualifying as safety 
>> glasses, minus side shields.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>>
>> At 01:23 PM 9/25/2014, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
>>
>>
>>> BTW, the color stripe won't work for me. Not only have I lost my 
>>> near vision, but I'm also color blind. One tip to add, I use cheap 
>>> womens reading glasses in the shop. Womens reading glasses
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 15:00:57 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] air hose quick disconnects that don't leak
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Howdy,

Recommendations for air hose quick disconnect fittings that don't leak?

I have the standard brass & 'other material' type ones from Lowes/HD/HF
like these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-Piece-Solid-Brass-Industrial-uick-Coupler-Set-68241.html

Problem is that fairly quickly they start to leak when connected and I'm
getting sick of it.  Are there versions of these things that are more
robust?

Thanks!

Mark
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 13:10:43 2014
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:13:06 -0700
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAAoSWGOSoitCUYi4xE74n=MzvdokMEh9RYDgk5cPzB_u9dfhdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose quick disconnects that don't leak
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> I have the standard brass & 'other material' type ones from Lowes/HD/HF
> like these:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/4-Piece-Solid-Brass-Industrial-uick-Coupler-Set-68241.html
>
> Problem is that fairly quickly they start to leak when connected and I'm
> getting sick of it.  Are there versions of these things that are more
> robust?

I use the 3/8in Tru-Flate type (probably overkill for most purposes) - 
they also have a letter code, F maybe?  and I've got two or three 
different varieties of the push-connect fittings:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=tw6rlp

I've been trying to get whip hoses on all my tools, buying NPT-to-NPT 
whip hoses twice as long as I really want and cutting them in half, 
sticking one of the hose-barb fittings in the cut hose, putting a couple 
Oetiker ear clamps on it, and covering the clamps with heatshrink, then 
the threaded ends of the resulting whip hoses screw into the tools. 
Cheaper, fewer threaded connections, easily field-repaired if necessary.

I made a mistake when I initially plumbed my air system, I pointed all 
the quick-couplers on the air plumbing down.  Eventually they'd all 
accumulate just enough water and crud to corrode and leak when they were 
NOT in use, which was an ongoing problem for a while.

I've gradually redone most of them so they no longer point down, and the 
couple that still do are semi-permanently coupled to a hose reel or 
something so they're not a problem.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 13:11:24 2014
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 14:14:17 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
Cc: ShopTalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose quick disconnects that don't leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dunno.  I buy cheap stuff at Menards and it works fine.

On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 2:00 PM, Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com> wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> Recommendations for air hose quick disconnect fittings that don't leak?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 14:17:22 2014
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 16:20:11 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose quick disconnects that don't leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Get Milton "V" style high-flow couplings:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milton-S216-V-STYLE-HI-FLOW-COUPLER-PLUG-/400346993197?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item5d368a522d

I used to have the "industrial" type, and I changed them all to the "V"
type.  The sockets also accept the most common "automotive" type plugs.
No leaks, and you don't get a loud "pop" of air when you disconnect.

Doug
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 26 16:27:02 2014
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References: <CAAoSWGOSoitCUYi4xE74n=MzvdokMEh9RYDgk5cPzB_u9dfhdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose quick disconnects that don't leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I've used Milton M style for years, been quite happy with them.

Back in my brewing days we started using some quick connect hose fittings for the
cooling coil, bottle washer and such. Unlike air line fittings, they can not be
disconnected while under pressure. Silly me.

mjb.
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2014 22:51:08 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rivets backer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to install some 1/4 inch rivets in my current project. These are the
old fashion solid metal rivets with a domed head. I have had no problem
mushrooming the stem with a hammer. My problem is that the round head tends to
also flatten on the crown.  What I need is a backer that the round head can
sit in when hammering the stem.  I'm sure there is a tool for this but I have
no idea what it is called much less where to buy one.
Can anyone help me with a name and source for such a tool?
Thanks for any help.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <19402CDC-C1D1-400A-813B-C1B924E1AA9C@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 07:13:18 -0500
Thread-Index: AQEvixzxL46+GL14IHSSeixzzyZbbJ1VgH4Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Bulk]  Rivets backer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It's called a rivet set.  Rivets are actually driven from the head end, and
the shop head (the flattened part) is formed against a bucking bar.
You can put a rivet set into a regular automotive air chisel, but it's hard
to do a decent job that way because air chisels have on-off triggers.  Real
rivet guns have sensitive triggers and can be adjusted to just deliver one
blow at a time when the trigger is worked properly.

You could hand-hammer against the back of the rivet set, to do just a few
rivets.

Rivets can also be squeezed, which makes nice and uniform heads easily, IF
your rivets are all close to an edge - rivet squeezers have fairly shallow
throats.

If you Google "Rivet set" you'll find lots of suppliers.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert nogueira
Subject: [Bulk] [Shop-talk] Rivets backer

I need to install some 1/4 inch rivets in my current project. These are the
old fashion solid metal rivets with a domed head. I have had no problem
mushrooming the stem with a hammer. My problem is that the round head tends
to also flatten on the crown.  What I need is a backer that the round head
can sit in when hammering the stem.  I'm sure there is a tool for this but I
have no idea what it is called much less where to buy one.
Can anyone help me with a name and source for such a tool?
Thanks for any help.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: "Robert nogueira" <nogera@icloud.com>, "Shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rivets backer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There are backers for installation of snaps in fabric, perhaps one of those 
would be the correct size.
Or might a right sized socket work?


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Robert nogueira" <nogera@icloud.com>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 11:51 PM
To: "Shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rivets backer

> I need to install some 1/4 inch rivets in my current project. These are 
> the
> old fashion solid metal rivets with a domed head. I have had no problem
> mushrooming the stem with a hammer. My problem is that the round head 
> tends to
> also flatten on the crown.  What I need is a backer that the round head 
> can
> sit in when hammering the stem.  I'm sure there is a tool for this but I 
> have
> no idea what it is called much less where to buy one.
> Can anyone help me with a name and source for such a tool?
> Thanks for any help.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 09:32:33 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 10:35:22 -0500
 FILETIME=[A6EBA9F0:01CFDA68]
Subject: [Shop-talk] aerosol cans
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a bunch of cans, PB blaster, WD40, etc that have lost their pressure
but are not empty; a couple are close to half full. (I left these two in them
garage shop over winter <insert embarrassed emoticon here>)

I am wondering if anyone has punched open cans in this condition to salvage
the rest of the penetrant/contents? If so, what has been done or recommended?
Or should I not even mess with it?

I have a seized block I'd love to use these cans' contents on....

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 09:37:38 2014
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Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 08:37:47 -0700
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aerosol cans
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On 9/27/2014 8:35 AM, Tim . wrote:
> I have a bunch of cans, PB blaster, WD40, etc that have lost their pressure

If they've lost their pressure then I'd just drill or punch a hole near 
the top and pour it out.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 10:02:11 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Tim .'" <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 09:04:59 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/aaLJOZxajmV33QCaNV1k0d7/m/AAAyfag
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aerosol cans
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> I have a bunch of cans, PB blaster, WD40, etc that have lost 
> their pressure

What I usually do is re-pressurize them from the shop air.  Takes a certain amount of coordination, but I hold the tip of the
(non-OSHA) air gun up to the opening of the spray button, then press the button while pressing the valve on the air gun.  You may
need to repeat a few times as you empty the can (especially if the can was still nearly full) but it gives a good spray for a while.

> I am wondering if anyone has punched open cans in this 
> condition to salvage
> the rest of the penetrant/contents? 

I've done that too.  The neat way is to drill a hole, but a prick punch & BFH works well enough.

In fact, I'm in the habit of piercing cans before I throw them away; just to remove any possibility of the can exploding when the
garbage is compacted.  For that, a sharp rap on the corner of the vise will usually puncture the can.  They are surprisingly thin.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 10:26:04 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Robert nogueira'" <nogera@icloud.com>, "'Shop-talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 09:28:53 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/aBlUimv5YaKqPRCenOslq4YCKDAAaa+1w
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rivets backer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> What I need is a backer that the 
> round head can
> sit in when hammering the stem.  I'm sure there is a tool for 
> this but I have
> no idea what it is called much less where to buy one.

Here is one option:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/buckingblocks.php

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 11:11:04 2014
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References: <BLU180-W366AA4C2CDCF71F28B018AB4BC0@phx.gbl>
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 13:13:53 -0400
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aerosol cans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I worked in a QC lab where we tested aerosols.  "Tapping" the can was the
first step.  Just punch a hole in it with an awl and you can put the contents
right out.  You can do it to a pressurized can to, as they always were when we
did it.  You just let them stand upright for a minute and punch a hole near
the top and let it vent.

-Paul

> On Sep 27, 2014, at 11:35 AM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
>
> I have a bunch of cans, PB blaster, WD40, etc that have lost their pressure
> but are not empty; a couple are close to half full. (I left these two in
them
> garage shop over winter <insert embarrassed emoticon here>)
>
> I am wondering if anyone has punched open cans in this condition to salvage
> the rest of the penetrant/contents? If so, what has been done or
recommended?
> Or should I not even mess with it?
>
> I have a seized block I'd love to use these cans' contents on....
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 16:27:35 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 17:30:22 -0500
References: <BLU180-W366AA4C2CDCF71F28B018AB4BC0@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aerosol cans
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys. Now I hope for a quick release on this block; pistons are shot
but the rods and crank are good for sure, maybe the block but probably not.

> From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 10:35:22 -0500
> Subject: [Shop-talk] aerosol cans
>
> I have a bunch of cans, PB blaster, WD40, etc that have lost their pressure
> but are not empty; a couple are close to half full. (I left these two in
them
> garage shop over winter <insert embarrassed emoticon here>)
>
> I am wondering if anyone has punched open cans in this condition to salvage
> the rest of the penetrant/contents? If so, what has been done or
recommended?
> Or should I not even mess with it?
>
> I have a seized block I'd love to use these cans' contents on....
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 27 18:38:53 2014
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2014 19:40:15 -0500
References: <72.9C.24556.8C5E6245@cdptpa-oedge01>
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rivets backer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys,the,rivet set is just what Ii need.  Found several local suppliers
on line.

Bob Nogueira
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 18:10:19 2014
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 20:13:09 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Warning: Frost Proof Outdoor Faucet Failure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello All,

It's been quiet so I thought I'd share a frustrating story.  This
spring I replaced an original 30 year old outdoor faucet that didn't
survive this winter's extra cold weather.  I went to Lowe's and bought
what they had the most of.  This evening I went to shut it off after
watering and the knob turned with no resistance.  Pulled the thing
apart and found a long, thin, hollow copper pushtube that pressed the
washer against the seat.  The push tube had longitudinal cracks on
both ends that allowed the tube to ride over the flange that was
supposed to put pressure on it when you twisted the knob.

I'll return to Lowe's to try and find something better designed, but
I'd guess every one of these is failing.  I found at least one other
complaint online.  They could not possibly have done any long term
testing of this faucet and any engineer looking at it could see it was
doomed to failure.  Its Made in China and has SLDRO on the red handle.
Not all Made In China stuff is junk, but this part confirms the
stereotype.

Luckily I made it easier to replace when I replaced it this spring so
it should just be a matter of unscrewing it and putting the new one
on.

I'll be more discriminating when I pick out the new one.....

Ben.....
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 18:39:26 2014
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 20:39:59 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever tried one of these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I was wondering about a couple of (garage-related) gadgets I have seen
recently:

1:  Has anyone ever used a Uview "Airlift" to change a car's coolant?  This
is a gadget that you connect to a compressed air source, that generates a
vacuum to suck all the air out of your car's (drained) cooling system, and
lets fresh coolant get sucked in.  I was thinking of getting one for my
Prius (which has TWO cooling systems).

2:  I have seen these portable jump-starters that use a lithium instead of
a lead-acid battery,  They are very small, only about 1x3x6 inches, and
will keep their charge for a long time while sitting in your trunk.  I am
amazed that such a small device can out put enough current to actually
start a car.  Are they for real?

Thanks,
Doug
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 28 19:24:31 2014
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'Shop-Talk'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 18:25:30 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever tried one of these?
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Doug,

I suspect the lipo starter is for real.  Lipos are powerful, but with
incredible power comes incredible responsibility.  They hold a lot of energy
and if mistreated they can cause nasty fires.  I have used a lead acid
tractor battery for the starter on my RC engines for years.  I recently
converted it to a lipo.  Instead of that mid sized lead acid battery, I use
an oversize 1x1.5x5 inch 4-cell lipo I assembled from old beater battery
cells, the ones that didn't get wimpy when the lipo finally started to lose
it's capacity.  The lipo cranks the starter faster (16v vs. 12v) but it
lasts all day, no problem.  If it didn't, I could recharge it a lot faster
than the lead acid battery.  

As long as you don't exceed the rated discharge rate or let a cell drop
below 3+ volts, lipos are exceptional.  The minimum voltage you should let
them go to is subject to discussion.  Technically, I think the spec is
3v/cell, but they seem to last longer if you don't beat on them with heavy
and deep discharges.  I tend to try to use 3.3/cell as a minimum.

Jack
p.s. for those in the know, yes, I installed a balance plug on the home made
lipo pack.  We balance every lipo pack every time we use them.

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug
Braun
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2014 5:40 PM
To: Shop-Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever tried one of these?

Hello,

I was wondering about a couple of (garage-related) gadgets I have seen
recently:

1:  Has anyone ever used a Uview "Airlift" to change a car's coolant?  This
is a gadget that you connect to a compressed air source, that generates a
vacuum to suck all the air out of your car's (drained) cooling system, and
lets fresh coolant get sucked in.  I was thinking of getting one for my
Prius (which has TWO cooling systems).

2:  I have seen these portable jump-starters that use a lithium instead of
a lead-acid battery,  They are very small, only about 1x3x6 inches, and
will keep their charge for a long time while sitting in your trunk.  I am
amazed that such a small device can out put enough current to actually
start a car.  Are they for real?

Thanks,
Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2014 18:29:49 -0700
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever tried one of these?
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On Sep 28, 2014, at 5:39 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> 1:  Has anyone ever used a Uview "Airlift" to change a car's coolant?  This
> is a gadget that you connect to a compressed air source, that generates a
> vacuum to suck all the air out of your car's (drained) cooling system, and
> lets fresh coolant get sucked in.  I was thinking of getting one for my
> Prius (which has TWO cooling systems).

Hi Doug,

I used one of those on my Wedge, to see if it would help to get trapped air
out.  I dont know if it helped in that respect, but it did a fine job of
filling the system.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

