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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Finally some progress this weekend! Got the links in the postfix imap procmail mharc namazu cron chain
all straightened out.  Don't worry if you don't understand that part, just know that the messages
to the Team.Net lists are now getting added to the archives on an hourly basis once again.

Next on the list is getting all the missing months added.

But for now, time for a cold one.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 16:47:20 2014
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 15:47:48 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] air hose
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When I worked in a factory, some mechanics had an extension for the air hose.
Basically a piece of pipe/conduit, with a quick disconnect on one end, all
about 3 feet long.  Great for blowing down an area.  Is this something I can
purchase, or is it something that must be cobbled up, maybe by brazing a
fitting on the end of a pipe/conduit?  I looked at HF, but didn't find
anything.  I don't really have the equipment to make one.

Mike
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 17:25:26 2014
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Elton E. \(Tony\) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
References: <2DCC8A4EC8CC4C44BAB27FD1906471E8@Mike>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
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Thanks.  Sounds like what I am looking for, but can't find it on HF site.  Any
clues?


Mike
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark
  To: Mike
  Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2014 3:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose


  Harbor Freight has a 3 foot long nozzle blowgun for your air line that's
wonderful and costs about 4 bucks . Mine's 4 5 years old and  still working..
  Tony





  On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 5:47 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

    When I worked in a factory, some mechanics had an extension for the air
hose.
    Basically a piece of pipe/conduit, with a quick disconnect on one end,
all
    about 3 feet long.  Great for blowing down an area.  Is this something I
can
    purchase, or is it something that must be cobbled up, maybe by brazing a
    fitting on the end of a pipe/conduit?  I looked at HF, but didn't find
    anything.  I don't really have the equipment to make one.

    Mike
    _______________________________________________

    Shop-talk@autox.team.net
    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Suggested annual donation  $12.96
    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 17:33:07 2014
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:33:21 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Check again!  It's HF number 68257 air blowgun $3.99.
Tony



On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 6:25 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

>  Thanks.  Sounds like what I am looking for, but can't find it on HF
> site.  Any clues?
>
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Elton E. (Tony) Clark <eltonclark@gmail.com>
> *To:* Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 20, 2014 3:53 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
>
>  Harbor Freight has a 3 foot long nozzle blowgun for your air line that's
> wonderful and costs about 4 bucks . Mine's 4 5 years old and  still
> working..
> Tony
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 5:47 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> When I worked in a factory, some mechanics had an extension for the air
>> hose.
>> Basically a piece of pipe/conduit, with a quick disconnect on one end, all
>> about 3 feet long.  Great for blowing down an area.  Is this something I
>> can
>> purchase, or is it something that must be cobbled up, maybe by brazing a
>> fitting on the end of a pipe/conduit?  I looked at HF, but didn't find
>> anything.  I don't really have the equipment to make one.
>>
>> Mike
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:51:59 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Bonding aluminum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to bond a one or two square inch piece of sheet aluminum to a aluminum hood. The only purpose is stiffen a corner. I don't want to weld it in place and have to deal with the hood warping.   
What would be the best adhesive which will stand up to under hood heat.
Thanks for any suggestions

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 19:08:49 -0500
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <D2697863-1D53-44B5-886F-5D4069878264@icloud.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bonding aluminum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

JB Weld, no??


On 7/20/2014 6:51 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I need to bond a one or two square inch piece of sheet aluminum to a aluminum hood. The only purpose is stiffen a corner. I don't want to weld it in place and have to deal with the hood warping.
> What would be the best adhesive which will stand up to under hood heat.
> Thanks for any suggestions
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild@att.net
_______________________________________________

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References: <D2697863-1D53-44B5-886F-5D4069878264@icloud.com>
 <53CC5A11.10208@att.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 19:19:49 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bonding aluminum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Use a two part epoxy mix, dab it on wet-or-dry sandpaper and scrub a bright
spot on both surfaces; that gets the adhesive in contact with base metal
instead of oxides, add more mix and clap it in place  . . it's going to
stay!


On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 7:08 PM, steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
wrote:

> JB Weld, no??
>
>
>
> On 7/20/2014 6:51 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:
>
>> I need to bond a one or two square inch piece of sheet aluminum to a
>> aluminum hood. The only purpose is stiffen a corner. I don't want to weld
>> it in place and have to deal with the hood warping.
>> What would be the best adhesive which will stand up to under hood heat.
>> Thanks for any suggestions
>>
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/shop-talk/shochschild@att.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 17:50:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+kcfXaVs8widxDR1aw9T4bViRppwACfH4w
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Thanks.  Sounds like what I am looking for, but can't find it 
> on HF site.  Any
> clues?

Here's a link, but it's only about 2 feet long.
http://tinyurl.com/pwbxoug

IIRC, the threads were 1/8" NPT, so it might be fairly easy to buy the parts to extend it further, if need be.

Randall
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References: <B1.82.07747.3C36CC35@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:45:38 -0700
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, thanks, I did find that (at Tony's suggestion).  2 ft long may be 
enough.  I will go by HF this week and see what they have.

Mike
=====================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2014 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose


>> Thanks.  Sounds like what I am looking for, but can't find it
>> on HF site.  Any
>> clues?
>
> Here's a link, but it's only about 2 feet long.
> http://tinyurl.com/pwbxoug
>
> IIRC, the threads were 1/8" NPT, so it might be fairly easy to buy the 
> parts to extend it further, if need be.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 19:45:48 2014
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 18:45:46 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2DCC8A4EC8CC4C44BAB27FD1906471E8@Mike>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Just go to the BORG or hardware store.  Find a quick disconnect fitting 
the same style as your hose uses.  It'll be threaded on the other end, 
either male or female.  Take it to the plumbing department and tell the 
guy there you need a 3 foot (or so) piece of 1/4" black or galvanized 
pipe and a fitting to screw THIS (show him the air fitting) on the end.  
Screw together.  Done.


On 7/20/2014 3:47 PM, Mike wrote:
> When I worked in a factory, some mechanics had an extension for the air hose.
> Basically a piece of pipe/conduit, with a quick disconnect on one end, all
> about 3 feet long.  Great for blowing down an area.  Is this something I can
> purchase, or is it something that must be cobbled up, maybe by brazing a
> fitting on the end of a pipe/conduit?  I looked at HF, but didn't find
> anything.  I don't really have the equipment to make one.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 20:24:52 -0700
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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 <53CC5A11.10208@att.net>
 <CA+7Nz3oGgjFyCUtYe_qd_JWEegYCCovz3122roRDMaEBhEpFXg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Bonding aluminum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 7/20/2014 5:19 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
> Use a two part epoxy mix, dab it on wet-or-dry sandpaper and scrub a bright
> spot on both surfaces; that gets the adhesive in contact with base metal
> instead of oxides, add more mix and clap it in place  . . it's going to
> stay!

My choice for stuff like that:

http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy,-Silicone-an/c11_1125_1178/index.html

And yeah, properly prepared the joint should last fine.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 16:25:50 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 17:26:00 -0500
 FILETIME=[BFA71620:01CFA532]
Subject: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an odd situation...
Our house has existing knob
and tube in some spots. The three season front
porch is one such spot: Up above
the ceiling is a line that feeds a ceiling
fan. Off the fan is a line that
feeds an indoor outlet, an outdoor outlet and
the front porch light. Ive never
had any issues with this circuit before
today. The outside light is (was) always
on using a compact fluorescent bulb.
I believe this bulb failed a couple days
ago but am not certain. I know it
didnt work last night for sure.

All of a sudden this
afternoon, the inside outlet stopped working. We had had
the fan on and were
using a small shop vac at the same time. Now, the fan and
its light still work
but the rest of the circuit no longer has power. I
checked the connections,
found a loose ground connection, fixed that and it
wall all good. I put the
cover back on the junction box and put the outlet
back together. Now there is
no power to the outlets or the outside light
fixture again.

When I put my meter on the
wires in the junction box, I dont get 120 volts.
It seems to hover around 50. (I
had been getting 120 before I put the cover
back on and put the outlet back
together.)



The fan seems to work fine
and its light is also fine.

I am clueless when it comes
to electricity so any suggestions are welcome
please.

Thanks all


tim
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 19:09:12 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, Shop-Talk
 <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That 50-volt reading is a red herring.  There is an open in the line
somewhere, and the section connected
to the voltmeter is just picking up stray voltage.  If you tried to put an
actual load on that line, the voltage would disappear.

Doug


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 6:26 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
wrote:

> I have an odd situation...
> Our house has existing knob
> and tube in some spots. The three season front
> porch is one such spot: Up above
> the ceiling is a line that feeds a ceiling
> fan. Off the fan is a line that
> feeds an indoor outlet, an outdoor outlet and
> the front porch light. I ve never
> had any issues with this circuit before
> today. The outside light is (was) always
> on using a compact fluorescent bulb.
> I believe this bulb failed a couple days
> ago but am not certain. I know it
> didn t work last night for sure.
>
> All of a sudden this
> afternoon, the inside outlet stopped working. We had had
> the fan on and were
> using a small shop vac at the same time. Now, the fan and
> its light still work
> but the rest of the circuit no longer has power. I
> checked the connections,
> found a loose ground connection, fixed that and it
> wall all good. I put the
> cover back on the junction box and put the outlet
> back together. Now there is
> no power to the outlets or the outside light
> fixture again.
>
> When I put my meter on the
> wires in the junction box, I don t get 120 volts.
> It seems to hover around 50. (I
> had been getting 120 before I put the cover
> back on and put the outlet back
> together.)
>
>
>
> The fan seems to work fine
> and its light is also fine.
>
> I am clueless when it comes
> to electricity so any suggestions are welcome
> please.
>
> Thanks all
>
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 19:37:17 -0400
References: <BLU180-W505C688D791EA963BB73FAB4F00@phx.gbl>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

So, when you fixed the bad ground, the outlet was working, but once you
covered up the box, it wasn't working?

Do the wires for that first outlet attach via the "push-in" holes in the back
of the outlet, or via the screw terminals on the side? If the former, the
springs inside loosen up over time and cause intermittent connectivity (and
arcing, which starts fires).

jim

On Jul 21, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Tim . wrote:

> I have an odd situation...
> Our house has existing knob
> and tube in some spots. The three season front
> porch is one such spot: Up above
> the ceiling is a line that feeds a ceiling
> fan. Off the fan is a line that
> feeds an indoor outlet, an outdoor outlet and
> the front porch light. Ive never
> had any issues with this circuit before
> today. The outside light is (was) always
> on using a compact fluorescent bulb.
> I believe this bulb failed a couple days
> ago but am not certain. I know it
> didnt work last night for sure.
>
> All of a sudden this
> afternoon, the inside outlet stopped working. We had had
> the fan on and were
> using a small shop vac at the same time. Now, the fan and
> its light still work
> but the rest of the circuit no longer has power. I
> checked the connections,
> found a loose ground connection, fixed that and it
> wall all good. I put the
> cover back on the junction box and put the outlet
> back together. Now there is
> no power to the outlets or the outside light
> fixture again.
>
> When I put my meter on the
> wires in the junction box, I dont get 120 volts.
> It seems to hover around 50. (I
> had been getting 120 before I put the cover
> back on and put the outlet back
> together.)
>
>
>
> The fan seems to work fine
> and its light is also fine.
>
> I am clueless when it comes
> to electricity so any suggestions are welcome
> please.
>
> Thanks all
>
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 07:22:35 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Tim .'" <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W505C688D791EA963BB73FAB4F00@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 08:22:38 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
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Tim,

You said that you have knob and tube wiring in this area. Can you give me a
better understanding of how the outlets and fan are fed? For example, does
power come to the fan via knob & tube, then go to the outlets and porch
light via the same knob and tube, or are they fed from the ceiling fan via
romex or more knob and tube?

As others have mentioned, it sounds like you have a loose connection either
in the junction box, or whatever feeds it. I'll be happy to help with this.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim .
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 5:26 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] electrical question

I have an odd situation...
Our house has existing knob
and tube in some spots. The three season front porch is one such spot: Up
above the ceiling is a line that feeds a ceiling fan. Off the fan is a line
that feeds an indoor outlet, an outdoor outlet and the front porch light.
Ive never had any issues with this circuit before today. The outside light
is (was) always on using a compact fluorescent bulb.
I believe this bulb failed a couple days ago but am not certain. I know it
didnt work last night for sure.

All of a sudden this
afternoon, the inside outlet stopped working. We had had the fan on and were
using a small shop vac at the same time. Now, the fan and its light still
work but the rest of the circuit no longer has power. I checked the
connections, found a loose ground connection, fixed that and it wall all
good. I put the cover back on the junction box and put the outlet back
together. Now there is no power to the outlets or the outside light fixture
again.

When I put my meter on the
wires in the junction box, I dont get 120 volts.
It seems to hover around 50. (I
had been getting 120 before I put the cover back on and put the outlet back
together.)



The fan seems to work fine
and its light is also fine.

I am clueless when it comes
to electricity so any suggestions are welcome please.

Thanks all


tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 15:13:33 2014
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <B1.82.07747.3C36CC35@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 14:14:02 -0700
 s=q20140121; t=1406150023;
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] air hose
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all for your help.  Found what I needed at HF.  A little shorter 
than I was looking for, but it will do fine.

Mike 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 21:14:28 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 6:37 PM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> So, when you fixed the bad ground, the outlet was working, but once you
> covered up the box, it wasn't working?
>
> Do the wires for that first outlet attach via the "push-in" holes in the back
> of the outlet, or via the screw terminals on the side? If the former, the
> springs inside loosen up over time and cause intermittent connectivity (and
> arcing, which starts fires).
>

It's worth pointing out that there are two different ways that wires
can go into the back of a switch or receptacle.  The first is commonly
called "back stab", which is what Jim is describing: the wires are
held in place by spring tension, and are just pushed in.  (Leviton's
trade name for this is 'QuickWire').  There's a tab that can, in
theory, be used to remove the device, without cutting the wire.  These
are cheap, nasty, and prone to failure, they're only on the cheapest
outlets.    The second style are called 'back wire', and use a screw
to hold the wire in place.  Usually that's the same screw and clamp
that the side wire would use (And you can use both, if you need an
extra way to take a wire off).   These are good, and are found on good
quality industrial and commercial grade outlets.

If you have back stab devices, replace, or wire them on the side.  Get
some spares, so the next one you find, you can just replace without a
trip to store.

I expect Tim's problem is at, or very near, whatever box he's been
working on.  Knob and tube is evil stuff, and  when it gets modified,
people do weird and stupid stuff.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 07:12:45 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 08:10:49 -0500
 FILETIME=[B0C5EAE0:01CFA740]
Subject: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I re-read my OP. Let's see
if I can be more clear on my description....



(From what I remember when
we did the roof above this porch) it is knob and
tube to the fan--I didn't open
up the fan to verify the connection but the
only wires above the
ceiling were knob and tube and the only electrical on the
porch is this: I can
see Romex from the fan to a junction box. From the
junction box there
is a (romex) split to the outside porch light and another
romex
split to the inside outlet. The inside outlet is the type where the
wires screw
into the side. From the inside outlet is a set of wires that are
run to the
outside weather proof outlet, again romex.



Some have mentioned having
a light plugged into the outlet while trying to
test the circuit. Let me
ask this: If I have the wall switch (the wall switch
is inside the house)
turned on and the ceiling fan running, then there (used
to be) should
be power running to the outside light so there should be a draw
on
the circuit while I am trying to determine voltage. Is this correct? I
also
had plugged in a small shop vac into the inside outlet and then tested the
wires again and got what appeared to be a low voltage reading. Again, all this
time the ceiling fan was running and its light worked as well.



I double checked all the
connections in the junction box and also the wires
into the outlet and all
appear to be nice and tight.



I have had many issues/problems
with all the contractors  (roofer for the
second story, electrician for wiring up a 240 circuit, major appliance repair
and more)  I had work on this house. If I
can find an electrician I can trust
I would replace this knob and tube but it
is from one of end the house to the
other so wont be cheap. Id prefer to
solve what has to be a simple issue. I
can also get an electrician to try to
sort this but that is the last resort.



Thanks all!


Beers and dinner on me if
anyone is ever in southern WI!!


tim
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 07:14:33 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 08:14:51 -0500
References: <BLU180-W3654ECF79AF8D367D3A04B4FF0@phx.gbl>
 FILETIME=[40EEFA30:01CFA741]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I am thinking I need to open up the fan and see if the connection to the romex
run is good......

> From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 08:10:49 -0500
> Subject: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
>
> I re-read my OP. Let's see
> if I can be more clear on my description....
>
>
>
> (From what I remember when
> we did the roof above this porch) it is knob and
> tube to the fan--I didn't open
> up the fan to verify the connection but the
> only wires above the
> ceiling were knob and tube and the only electrical on the
> porch is this: I can
> see Romex from the fan to a junction box. From the
> junction box there
> is a (romex) split to the outside porch light and another
> romex
> split to the inside outlet. The inside outlet is the type where the
> wires screw
> into the side. From the inside outlet is a set of wires that are
> run to the
> outside weather proof outlet, again romex.
>
>
>
> Some have mentioned having
> a light plugged into the outlet while trying to
> test the circuit. Let me
> ask this: If I have the wall switch (the wall switch
> is inside the house)
> turned on and the ceiling fan running, then there (used
> to be) should
> be power running to the outside light so there should be a draw
> on
> the circuit while I am trying to determine voltage. Is this correct? I
> also
> had plugged in a small shop vac into the inside outlet and then tested the
> wires again and got what appeared to be a low voltage reading. Again, all
this
> time the ceiling fan was running and its light worked as well.
>
>
>
> I double checked all the
> connections in the junction box and also the wires
> into the outlet and all
> appear to be nice and tight.
>
>
>
> I have had many issues/problems
> with all the contractors  (roofer for the
> second story, electrician for wiring up a 240 circuit, major appliance
repair
> and more)  I had work on this house. If I
> can find an electrician I can trust
> I would replace this knob and tube but it
> is from one of end the house to the
> other so wont be cheap. Id prefer to
> solve what has to be a simple issue. I
> can also get an electrician to try to
> sort this but that is the last resort.
>
>
>
> Thanks all!
>
>
> Beers and dinner on me if
> anyone is ever in southern WI!!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 07:37:27 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 09:26:33 -0400
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 07/24/2014 09:26:39, Serialize complete at
 07/24/2014 09:26:39
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electrical safety question (and Alaska local question)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, so I picked up a used 'construction office' trailer this weekend.  The 
idea for me is to use it as a mobile studio for the SO to paint and do 
other crafts. 

The trailer was already wired for 240v.  Inside the trailer each leg 
becomes a separate 15 amp circuit (on their own breaker.)

Here is what I did temporarily to get power to the trailer (and what I 
want to do permanently if it is safe.)

I spliced the 240v line into two separate 120 volt lines.  (splitting the 
common and ground into each plug.)

This way, I just need to plug both plugs into a duplex receptacle (much 
more common) and I don't need to have a dedicated 240v outlet to use the 
trailer.

There are no 240v circuits inside the trailer that would require 2 
separate 'legs'.

Is this safe?  (or 'safe enough')

The power is just for the lights, and a fan, radio, glue gun or something 
like that.  I'm not running any heavy duty equipment from it.  (I may add 
a TV or video game cabinet at some point.)

Am I crazy?

Side note-  I'll be in Anchorage, AK next week.  Anyone here up in that 
part of the woods?  I'll buy lunch.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 06:54:28 -0700
From: MattMahony <MattMahony@Comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical safety question (and Alaska local
 question)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric;

The problem is that you are supplying two branch circuits (in the 
trailer) from a single branch circuit (the duplex receptacle). Your 
total available amperage is limited by the single branch circuit and it 
will be easier to trip the single breaker feeding that branch. This 
setup is a violation of the NEC but it wouldn't be unsafe as long as it 
is properly grounded.

It truly would be more convinient in the long run to supply it with a 
240V 15A circuit. Most generators have this output capacity.  A 12 Ga, 3 
wire with ground cable is not that expensive and would make your setup 
portable.

Matt


On 7/24/2014 6:26 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so I picked up a used 'construction office' trailer this weekend.  The
> idea for me is to use it as a mobile studio for the SO to paint and do
> other crafts.
>
> The trailer was already wired for 240v.  Inside the trailer each leg
> becomes a separate 15 amp circuit (on their own breaker.)
>
> Here is what I did temporarily to get power to the trailer (and what I
> want to do permanently if it is safe.)
>
> I spliced the 240v line into two separate 120 volt lines.  (splitting the
> common and ground into each plug.)
>
> This way, I just need to plug both plugs into a duplex receptacle (much
> more common) and I don't need to have a dedicated 240v outlet to use the
> trailer.
>
> There are no 240v circuits inside the trailer that would require 2
> separate 'legs'.
>
> Is this safe?  (or 'safe enough')
>
> The power is just for the lights, and a fan, radio, glue gun or something
> like that.  I'm not running any heavy duty equipment from it.  (I may add
> a TV or video game cabinet at some point.)
>
> Am I crazy?
>
> Side note-  I'll be in Anchorage, AK next week.  Anyone here up in that
> part of the woods?  I'll buy lunch.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mattmahony@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 08:47:47 2014
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 10:48:00 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical safety question (and Alaska local
 question)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

If I'm reading it correctly, you're doing basically what lots of motorhomes
do.  Ours has a 240v 50A power connection.  There are no 240vac loads in
the coach.  Adapters are used to combine the 240vac hot legs together,
sharing a common neutral and ground, to enable you to plug into a 110vac
line.  That means that in the coach what were separate 110vac runs now
share a common hot wire, but aside from that combining those loads on the
supply circuit (which almost certainly means there's less power available),
there's no negative effect.

Mark


On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 9:26 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, so I picked up a used 'construction office' trailer this weekend.  The
> idea for me is to use it as a mobile studio for the SO to paint and do
> other crafts.
>
> The trailer was already wired for 240v.  Inside the trailer each leg
> becomes a separate 15 amp circuit (on their own breaker.)
>
> Here is what I did temporarily to get power to the trailer (and what I
> want to do permanently if it is safe.)
>
> I spliced the 240v line into two separate 120 volt lines.  (splitting the
> common and ground into each plug.)
>
> This way, I just need to plug both plugs into a duplex receptacle (much
> more common) and I don't need to have a dedicated 240v outlet to use the
> trailer.
>
> There are no 240v circuits inside the trailer that would require 2
> separate 'legs'.
>
> Is this safe?  (or 'safe enough')
>
> The power is just for the lights, and a fan, radio, glue gun or something
> like that.  I'm not running any heavy duty equipment from it.  (I may add
> a TV or video game cabinet at some point.)
>
> Am I crazy?
>
> Side note-  I'll be in Anchorage, AK next week.  Anyone here up in that
> part of the woods?  I'll buy lunch.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF58273CB9.20F8178F-ON85257D1F.0049AE72-85257D1F.004A9B7C@mail.megageek.com>
 <53D11014.2010105@Comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 09:50:18 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIrKq1IlUbLiUAYZYbb13qKzMnipQGPBIfEmuvOJaA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical safety question (and Alaska local
 question)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Another consideration is that internally to the trailer wiring the
manufacturer might have shared neutrals, which is fine as long as circuits
sharing a neutral are on opposite phases.  Even if you plug each of your
split-circuit plugs into separate circuits, if they're on the same phase (in
the breaker box), any shared neutrals in the trailer could be overloaded.
This is dependent upon the total load used on both circuits.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
MattMahony
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 8:54 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrical safety question (and Alaska local
question)

Eric;

The problem is that you are supplying two branch circuits (in the
trailer) from a single branch circuit (the duplex receptacle). Your total
available amperage is limited by the single branch circuit and it will be
easier to trip the single breaker feeding that branch. This setup is a
violation of the NEC but it wouldn't be unsafe as long as it is properly
grounded.

It truly would be more convinient in the long run to supply it with a 240V
15A circuit. Most generators have this output capacity.  A 12 Ga, 3 wire
with ground cable is not that expensive and would make your setup portable.

Matt


On 7/24/2014 6:26 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so I picked up a used 'construction office' trailer this weekend.  
> The idea for me is to use it as a mobile studio for the SO to paint 
> and do other crafts.
>
> The trailer was already wired for 240v.  Inside the trailer each leg 
> becomes a separate 15 amp circuit (on their own breaker.)
>
> Here is what I did temporarily to get power to the trailer (and what I 
> want to do permanently if it is safe.)
>
> I spliced the 240v line into two separate 120 volt lines.  (splitting 
> the common and ground into each plug.)
>
> This way, I just need to plug both plugs into a duplex receptacle 
> (much more common) and I don't need to have a dedicated 240v outlet to 
> use the trailer.
>
> There are no 240v circuits inside the trailer that would require 2 
> separate 'legs'.
>
> Is this safe?  (or 'safe enough')
>
> The power is just for the lights, and a fan, radio, glue gun or 
> something like that.  I'm not running any heavy duty equipment from 
> it.  (I may add a TV or video game cabinet at some point.)
>
> Am I crazy?
>
> Side note-  I'll be in Anchorage, AK next week.  Anyone here up in 
> that part of the woods?  I'll buy lunch.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mattmahony@comcast.net
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 23:38:50 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 8:10 AM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
> I re-read my OP. Let's see
> if I can be more clear on my description....
>
>
>
> (From what I remember when
> we did the roof above this porch) it is knob and
> tube to the fan--I didn't open
> up the fan to verify the connection but the
> only wires above the
> ceiling were knob and tube and the only electrical on the
> porch is this: I can
> see Romex from the fan to a junction box. From the
> junction box there
> is a (romex) split to the outside porch light and another
> romex
> split to the inside outlet. The inside outlet is the type where the
> wires screw
> into the side. From the inside outlet is a set of wires that are
> run to the
> outside weather proof outlet, again romex.
>
>
>
> Some have mentioned having
> a light plugged into the outlet while trying to
> test the circuit. Let me
> ask this: If I have the wall switch (the wall switch
> is inside the house)
> turned on and the ceiling fan running, then there (used
> to be) should
> be power running to the outside light so there should be a draw
> on
> the circuit while I am trying to determine voltage. Is this correct? I
> also
> had plugged in a small shop vac into the inside outlet and then tested the
> wires again and got what appeared to be a low voltage reading. Again, all this
> time the ceiling fan was running and its light worked as well.
>
>

If the fan works, you know the wire up to the fan is good.  The fault
is somewhere downstream of it, including the connection at the fan's
box.  Given the description before, the likely failure is between the
fan (again, including the connections at its box) and the junction
box.  If you're lucky, it's loose at the fan, and replacing a wire nut
solves your problem, but it could well be a broken (or varmint
chewed...) wire in the wall.  Taking the fan apart to get at its
wiring is clearly the next step.  After that I'd start checking the
continuity of the wires.  In the absence of sufficiently long test
leads, you can short the hot and neutral together at one point, and
then test that there's low resistance between them at other points.
If there's not, then you know what segment has the problem, and work
out what the best way to run new wire is.  If there is, then you have
something stranger going on, but give the topography, I'm betting on
loose connection or broken wire.

Another thought: do you have an outlet tester?  They're cheap, and
well worth the money, and might tell you something before you starting
taking things apart.  (I'm talking about the ones you plug in with
three lights. depding on how the lights light up, it says "good", "bad
ground" "open neutral" etc.  cost about five bucks.)

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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References: <BLU180-W3654ECF79AF8D367D3A04B4FF0@phx.gbl>
 <CA+k5supdNGce6ypCXjMWvp1rDPH9WL-SfoeK_AZmJJ34FNiLGg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 08:05:06 -0700
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: Shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll add the switch in the fan could be bad too. I have a switch in a fan that
is currently bypassed. One day I went in the room for something, and pulled
the chain and jumped when it started sparking. It had been working fine
before. I reached for the wall switch to turn it off and the sparking stopped.
I pulled the cover and saw the sparking was coming from the fan switch. With
that bypassed, the light switch in the fan and the wall switch works fine and
it has been for a few years. It isn't a priority since I don't use that room
much. 

B


>________________________________
> From: David Scheidt
<dmscheidt@gmail.com>
>To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> 
>Cc: Shop
Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Friday, July 25, 2014 12:38 AM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
> 
>
>(snip)
>If the
fan works, you know the wire up to the fan is good.  The fault
>is somewhere
downstream of it, including the connection at the fan's
>box.  Given the
description before, the likely failure is between the
>fan (again, including
the connections at its box) and the junction
>box.  If you're lucky, it's
loose at the fan, and replacing a wire nut
>solves your problem, but it could
well be a broken (or varmint
>chewed...) wire in the wall.  Taking the fan
apart to get at its
>wiring is clearly the next step.  After that I'd start
checking the
>continuity of the wires.  In the absence of sufficiently long
test
>leads, you can short the hot and neutral together at one point, and
>then test that there's low resistance between them at other points.
>If
there's not, then you know what segment has the problem, and work
>out what
the best way to run new wire is.  If there is, then you have
>something
stranger going on, but give the topography, I'm betting on
>loose connection
or broken wire.
>(snip)
>David Scheidt
>dmscheidt@gmail.com
>
>
>
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 14:08:09 2014
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Boosting a UPS?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It is hot here in Salt Lake. I got a small fan for my office to help keep me cool.
I plugged it into one of the non-backup outlets on the UPS that powers the Team.Net
server. Now when I turn the little fan off or on, the UPS beeps a few times. Interesting.

It could be a sign that I need to replace the UPS soon. Maybe time for a mini fund drive?
I have also heard that one can increase the capacity by wiring normal 12 volt car, motorcycle,
lawn tractor, etc. batteries into the circuit. Anyone have any experience doing so?

mjb.

ps: About the only thing I remember from all the electrical engineering classes I took
     in college is that given enough current, any circuit element can be modeled as a fuse.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 15:00:40 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 14:00:18 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+p1pCI4bWV5/SDTBaFlku5DthRSQABWKjg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Boosting a UPS?
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> I plugged it into one of the non-backup outlets on the UPS 
> that powers the Team.Net
> server. Now when I turn the little fan off or on, the UPS 
> beeps a few times. Interesting.

If it is a non-backed outlet as you say, then I think this might be more a symptom of problems on the supply side.  It shouldn't be
an indication that the UPS itself, or it's batteries, are worn out or nearing overload, since the non-backed outlet is connected on
the input side internally.  Most likely though, it is just the power fail detection in the UPS picking up the sudden drop when the
fan motor is first turned on.

> I have also heard that one can increase the capacity by 
> wiring normal 12 volt car, motorcycle,
> lawn tractor, etc. batteries into the circuit. Anyone have 
> any experience doing so?

That would only get you increased run-time (meaning longer operation without AC power).  Almost always, the load that the UPS can
carry is limited by the inverter element (that turns battery power back into AC power).  Adding a bigger battery isn't going to help
that.

I have added run-time in that fashion, but only with a UPS designed to do so and only with batteries that were similar in
construction and capacity to the originals.  Wiring up a car battery would probably work (or two of them in series if your UPS runs
on 24 volts as the larger ones do), but you might need to provide for separate charging.

As a side comment, I've had several APC "consumer" UPS units now that appear to work normally right up until they are needed.
Passes internal self test and everything, but won't carry a load without AC input.  Not a battery issue, same symptoms even with a
brand new battery.  Didn't seem to be a bad power transistor either.

So, IMO, it is worth occasionally doing a full load test where, after making sure things are backed up and saved, you yank the plug
out of the wall and see what happens.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 17:55:12 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <D1.13.27317.76865D35@cdptpa-oedge03>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Boosting a UPS?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Randall wrote:

>
> If it is a non-backed outlet as you say, then I think this might be more a symptom of problems on the supply side.  It shouldn't be
> an indication that the UPS itself, or it's batteries, are worn out or nearing overload, since the non-backed outlet is connected on
> the input side internally.  Most likely though, it is just the power fail detection in the UPS picking up the sudden drop when the
> fan motor is first turned on.

What I need to do is shut everything off for a day, move around some hardware, rewire a few things, etc.  But the beeping
did remind me I wanted to get a higher capacity UPS as right now only two servers are on it. I know it works because during
thunderstorms we get power bumps as tree limbs shake loose wires somewhere. They last a few seconds, maybe a minute.
Right now my monitor and the networking hardware are not on the UPS. I plan to get a 500 - 700 watt unit in the near
future and run its AC supply right from the breaker box.

Yep, RealSoonNow.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 07:55:24 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:53:09 -0500
References: <BLU180-W3654ECF79AF8D367D3A04B4FF0@phx.gbl>,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
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Ok, so now more weirdness.....

I've not had time to check into the connection to the fan and the run from it.
I told the family to leave that switch turned off until I have time.

Well, yesterday my wife had a bridal shower her and someone turned that switch
on. (it is right next to the dining room switch so must have been an
accident.) Anyway, when we got home last night, the porch light was working. I
had her turn it off since I am overly paranoid already and I don't want to
take any chances with a fire.

So now what the heck?

even more confused now...
tim


 > > if I can be more clear on my description....
> >
> >
> >
> > (From what I remember when
> > we did the roof above this porch) it is knob and
> > tube to the fan--I didn't open
> > up the fan to verify the connection but the
> > only wires above the
> > ceiling were knob and tube and the only electrical on the
> > porch is this: I can
> > see Romex from the fan to a junction box. From the
> > junction box there
> > is a (romex) split to the outside porch light and another
> > romex
> > split to the inside outlet. The inside outlet is the type where the
> > wires screw
> > into the side. From the inside outlet is a set of wires that are
> > run to the
> > outside weather proof outlet, again romex.
> >
> >
> >
> > Some have mentioned having
> > a light plugged into the outlet while trying to
> > test the circuit. Let me
> > ask this: If I have the wall switch (the wall switch
> > is inside the house)
> > turned on and the ceiling fan running, then there (used
> > to be) should
> > be power running to the outside light so there should be a draw
> > on
> > the circuit while I am trying to determine voltage. Is this correct? I
> > also
> > had plugged in a small shop vac into the inside outlet and then tested
the
> > wires again and got what appeared to be a low voltage reading. Again, all
this
> > time the ceiling fan was running and its light worked as well.
> >
> >
>
> If the fan works, you know the wire up to the fan is good.  The fault
> is somewhere downstream of it, including the connection at the fan's
> box.  Given the description before, the likely failure is between the
> fan (again, including the connections at its box) and the junction
> box.  If you're lucky, it's loose at the fan, and replacing a wire nut
> solves your problem, but it could well be a broken (or varmint
> chewed...) wire in the wall.  Taking the fan apart to get at its
> wiring is clearly the next step.  After that I'd start checking the
> continuity of the wires.  In the absence of sufficiently long test
> leads, you can short the hot and neutral together at one point, and
> then test that there's low resistance between them at other points.
> If there's not, then you know what segment has the problem, and work
> out what the best way to run new wire is.  If there is, then you have
> something stranger going on, but give the topography, I'm betting on
> loose connection or broken wire.
>
> Another thought: do you have an outlet tester?  They're cheap, and
> well worth the money, and might tell you something before you starting
> taking things apart.  (I'm talking about the ones you plug in with
> three lights. depding on how the lights light up, it says "good", "bad
> ground" "open neutral" etc.  cost about five bucks.)
>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 09:47:56 2014
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 10:48:15 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical issue better defined
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

"Ok, just out of curiosity, is there any chance that one of these switches
is (or was) a three-way or four-way switch? "

No. It is a simple on/off like the one for the dining room fixture. We've been
in this place for about eight years and never had any issues with this
circuit. Until now anyway.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------






On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 8:53 AM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

Ok, so now more weirdness.....


I've not had time to check into the connection to the fan and the run from
it.

I told the family to leave that switch turned off until I have time.


Well, yesterday my wife had a bridal shower her and someone turned that
switch

on. (it is right next to the dining room switch so must have been an

accident.) Anyway, when we got home last night, the porch light was working.
I

had her turn it off since I am overly paranoid already and I don't want to

take any chances with a fire.


So now what the heck?


even more confused now...

tim
_______________________________________________

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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 12:55:35 -0400
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
 FILETIME=[C41095E0:01CFAA84]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cell phone signal boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Does anyone here know anything about cell phone signal boosters?  Cell phone
coverage is pretty weak at our new place and I need to do something to boost
it. Unfortunately, my wife has Verizon and I have AT&T and neither of us ever
gets a strong signal - one or two bars at best and even that varies with where
you are in the house. It isn't too bad in our back yard, but is spotty in the
house, which is only 780 sq feet. I know I can get a booster from AT&T that
will work with my phone and I am sure Verizon has something comparable, but it
would be nice to just buy one. We don't need a lot - even a little increase
would probably do the trick. Does anyone here have any experience with these
or advice?
Thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 13:30:01 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <BLU437-SMTP52F4147C3EF37CAED28E72CCFB0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone signal boosters
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I have the Verizon version.  They call it a network extender.  You 
have to have broadband service through your cable TV or FIOS or 
whatever.  The device plugs into your broadband and basically acts as 
a mini cell site for your house, sending the calls over the 
internet.  I am pretty happy with it.  Cell phone works much better 
now.  It requires a GPS signal, so the network extender must be 
located somewhere where that is possible.  The GPS antenna can be a 
few feet away, but you can't put it someplace like the 
basement.  Verizon charges you once for the device and doesn't charge 
any monthly fee, which is good.  I found that when I called to 
complain about my cell service, they did some checks and ultimately 
offered me the network extender at a considerable discount.  I don't 
think it will help you with your AT&T phone, though.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 12:55 PM 7/28/2014, James Stone wrote:
>Does anyone here know anything about cell phone signal boosters?  Cell phone
>coverage is pretty weak at our new place and I need to do something to boost
>it. Unfortunately, my wife has Verizon and I have AT&T and neither of us ever
>gets a strong signal - one or two bars at best and even that varies with where
>you are in the house. It isn't too bad in our back yard, but is spotty in the
>house, which is only 780 sq feet. I know I can get a booster from AT&T that
>will work with my phone and I am sure Verizon has something comparable, but it
>would be nice to just buy one. We don't need a lot - even a little increase
>would probably do the trick. Does anyone here have any experience with these
>or advice?
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 13:56:56 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <53D55C36.9040006@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Boosting a UPS?
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On 7/27/2014 4:08 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> It is hot here in Salt Lake. I got a small fan for my office to help 
> keep me cool.
> I plugged it into one of the non-backup outlets on the UPS that powers 
> the Team.Net
> server. Now when I turn the little fan off or on, the UPS beeps a few 
> times. Interesting.
>
> It could be a sign that I need to replace the UPS soon. Maybe time for 
> a mini fund drive?
> I have also heard that one can increase the capacity by wiring normal 
> 12 volt car, motorcycle,
> lawn tractor, etc. batteries into the circuit. Anyone have any 
> experience doing so?
You want a deep cycle battery, like a golf cart battery.  Auto batteries 
that provide a short burst of very high amperage to turn a starter.  
They are not designed for continuous high amperage draw and will fail 
when used for backup power.  The plates in a starter battery are thinner 
than a deep cycle battery and more of them. This is too provide a larger 
surface area for chemical reaction. The heat build up from continuous 
higher amperage draw can warp the plates and cause shorts.
>
> mjb.
>
> ps: About the only thing I remember from all the electrical 
> engineering classes I took
>     in college is that given enough current, any circuit element can 
> be modeled as a fuse.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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From: "Curious_John" <john.f.briggs@gmail.com>
To: "'Shop-Talk'" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <BLU437-SMTP52F4147C3EF37CAED28E72CCFB0@phx.gbl>
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 13:56:37 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+qiaAUNtl1+OEARbehxZxG7G2HNgAAnIwA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone signal boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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 I use zBoost (www.zboost.com) not cheap ($399.99 - it's gone up a lot in
the last few years) but it works.  Since I installed it people stop in the
road in front of our house to use their phone.  It has an outdoor antenna -
mine is on one end of the house as high as I coould get it.  A cable like
your tv cable leads to an indoor unit that I have in a closet.  It will work
for both Verizon and AT&T on 3G but not for 4G.  I have no interest in the
company.  It's just a product that works as advertised for me.

John
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 19:33:16 2014
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 21:31:32 -0400
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone signal boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the ATT MicroCell. It also requires broadband (I have a cablemodem).
It has worked really well for us for over 2 years now, and given your house
is under 1000 sq feet, it would cover your entire house without difficulty.

It will only provide coverage to ATT phones that you specifically add to an
access list. I bought mine on eBay for much less than the ATT retail price
of $200.

I should have gone with the zBoost John suggested (or Wilson DB Pro or
other 2-way amplifier). It is carrier-agnostic (though you will want to
ensure it operates in the band(s) that your phones require. You could need
850MHz, 1900MHz, or one of several LTE bands. All depends on where your
house is located. If you are using wi-fi at your house, you shouldn't be
impacted by any 3G speed limitation that might be present in the amplifier.

-Peter




On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 1:30 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:

> I have the Verizon version.  They call it a network extender.  You have to
> have broadband service through your cable TV or FIOS or whatever.  The
> device plugs into your broadband and basically acts as a mini cell site for
> your house, sending the calls over the internet.  I am pretty happy with
> it.  Cell phone works much better now.  It requires a GPS signal, so the
> network extender must be located somewhere where that is possible.  The GPS
> antenna can be a few feet away, but you can't put it someplace like the
> basement.  Verizon charges you once for the device and doesn't charge any
> monthly fee, which is good.  I found that when I called to complain about
> my cell service, they did some checks and ultimately offered me the network
> extender at a considerable discount.  I don't think it will help you with
> your AT&T phone, though.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
>
> At 12:55 PM 7/28/2014, James Stone wrote:
>
>> Does anyone here know anything about cell phone signal boosters?  Cell
>> phone
>> coverage is pretty weak at our new place and I need to do something to
>> boost
>> it. Unfortunately, my wife has Verizon and I have AT&T and neither of us
>> ever
>> gets a strong signal - one or two bars at best and even that varies with
>> where
>> you are in the house. It isn't too bad in our back yard, but is spotty in
>> the
>> house, which is only 780 sq feet. I know I can get a booster from AT&T
>> that
>> will work with my phone and I am sure Verizon has something comparable,
>> but it
>> would be nice to just buy one. We don't need a lot - even a little
>> increase
>> would probably do the trick. Does anyone here have any experience with
>> these
>> or advice?
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/
> peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 19:56:05 2014
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <53D55C36.9040006@bradakis.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 20:55:58 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac+p1ptDdQCGBm1+QwmsotLMD+xR7wA+WwdQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Boosting a UPS?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I had this problem at my house. We have several UPS units around the place.
When the A/C came on all the UPS units would beep. Turned out we had low
line voltage coming into the house, about 108v that would drop to about 100v
for a second. Check your incoming power just to be sure.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark
J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 3:08 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Boosting a UPS?

It is hot here in Salt Lake. I got a small fan for my office to help keep me
cool.
I plugged it into one of the non-backup outlets on the UPS that powers the
Team.Net server. Now when I turn the little fan off or on, the UPS beeps a
few times. Interesting.

It could be a sign that I need to replace the UPS soon. Maybe time for a
mini fund drive?
I have also heard that one can increase the capacity by wiring normal 12
volt car, motorcycle, lawn tractor, etc. batteries into the circuit. Anyone
have any experience doing so?

mjb.

ps: About the only thing I remember from all the electrical engineering
classes I took
     in college is that given enough current, any circuit element can be
modeled as a fuse.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 08:10:45 2014
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 10:09:08 -0400
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To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
 FILETIME=[AB9758C0:01CFAB36]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone signal boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys.  I do have broadband, and have looked at both the ATT and Verizon
microcells. I want something that will work across both (as neither my wife
nor I can switch carriers for a while) and will look at the zBoost and Wilson
amplifiers.  Id looked at them earlier, but wanted to be sure they actually
worked.  I figured Id find the answer here, and obviously have.
Thanks again!
Jim

On Jul 28, 2014, at 9:31 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have the ATT MicroCell. It also requires broadband (I have a cablemodem).
> It has worked really well for us for over 2 years now, and given your house
> is under 1000 sq feet, it would cover your entire house without difficulty.
>
> It will only provide coverage to ATT phones that you specifically add to an
> access list. I bought mine on eBay for much less than the ATT retail price
> of $200.
>
> I should have gone with the zBoost John suggested (or Wilson DB Pro or
> other 2-way amplifier). It is carrier-agnostic (though you will want to
> ensure it operates in the band(s) that your phones require. You could need
> 850MHz, 1900MHz, or one of several LTE bands. All depends on where your
> house is located. If you are using wi-fi at your house, you shouldn't be
> impacted by any 3G speed limitation that might be present in the amplifier.
>
> -Peter
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 1:30 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I have the Verizon version.  They call it a network extender.  You have to
>> have broadband service through your cable TV or FIOS or whatever.  The
>> device plugs into your broadband and basically acts as a mini cell site
for
>> your house, sending the calls over the internet.  I am pretty happy with
>> it.  Cell phone works much better now.  It requires a GPS signal, so the
>> network extender must be located somewhere where that is possible.  The
GPS
>> antenna can be a few feet away, but you can't put it someplace like the
>> basement.  Verizon charges you once for the device and doesn't charge any
>> monthly fee, which is good.  I found that when I called to complain about
>> my cell service, they did some checks and ultimately offered me the
network
>> extender at a considerable discount.  I don't think it will help you with
>> your AT&T phone, though.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>>
>>
>> At 12:55 PM 7/28/2014, James Stone wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone here know anything about cell phone signal boosters?  Cell
>>> phone
>>> coverage is pretty weak at our new place and I need to do something to
>>> boost
>>> it. Unfortunately, my wife has Verizon and I have AT&T and neither of us
>>> ever
>>> gets a strong signal - one or two bars at best and even that varies with
>>> where
>>> you are in the house. It isn't too bad in our back yard, but is spotty in
>>> the
>>> house, which is only 780 sq feet. I know I can get a booster from AT&T
>>> that
>>> will work with my phone and I am sure Verizon has something comparable,
>>> but it
>>> would be nice to just buy one. We don't need a lot - even a little
>>> increase
>>> would probably do the trick. Does anyone here have any experience with
>>> these
>>> or advice?
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/
>> peterwmurray@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:20:02 -0500
 FILETIME=[C28A1100:01CF992D]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Sorry for the OT but you lot are the most diverse group I have quick access to
for questions like this.

http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/tputland/library/US%20mirrors?sort=3&page=1

Thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:30:16 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Can't say for sure, but I think those are from a late 50's early 60's Ford
or Lincoln.  They look a lot like the mirrors on a friends '59 T-Bird.


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
wrote:

> Sorry for the OT but you lot are the most diverse group I have quick
> access to
> for questions like this.
>
>
> http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/tputland/library/US%20mirrors?sort=3&page=1
>
> Thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 16:06:29 -0500
References: <BLU180-W69143F289B4FC2F9869439B4020@phx.gbl>
 FILETIME=[527EAFB0:01CF9A27]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?
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Status: RO

Thanks for the replies all. While nothing definite was opined, at least it is
narrowed down for me now. I'll be taking WeeBeasty to a fairly big car show
this weekend and will be doing some "in person" searching for sure.

Thanks again!!

PEACE :-)
tim

> From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:20:02 -0500
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?
>
> Sorry for the OT but you lot are the most diverse group I have quick access
to
> for questions like this.
>
>
http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/tputland/library/US%20mirrors?sort=3&page=1
>
> Thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W69143F289B4FC2F9869439B4020@phx.gbl>
 <BLU180-W773ABD8F744576DC77AE37B40D0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 17:00:39 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

just saw these Tim and missed the other replies... but they look like 
mirrors from the '57 Ford fairlane error.... or possibly the same error 
Plymouth

john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?


> Thanks for the replies all. While nothing definite was opined, at least it 
> is
> narrowed down for me now. I'll be taking WeeBeasty to a fairly big car 
> show
> this weekend and will be doing some "in person" searching for sure.
>
> Thanks again!!
>
> PEACE :-)
> tim
>
>> From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
>> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:20:02 -0500
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone recognize these?
>>
>> Sorry for the OT but you lot are the most diverse group I have quick 
>> access
> to
>> for questions like this.
>>
>>
> http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/tputland/library/US%20mirrors?sort=3&page=1
>>
>> Thanks
>> tim
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
> 


---
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 19:21:20 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] pot
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Well, the subject line should get some readers, anyway.

I have a cast aluminum pot (actually, with the lid it is a Dutch Oven).  It is
ancient, probably pushing 100 years old.  Great cooking vessel, I use it all
the time.  But.......over the years it is showing it's age.  I have used steel
wool, and it works fairly well on the machined surfaces, but the un-machined
spots are too porous.  Anyone have some good suggestions on how to clean it
better?  I suppose one can buy some sort of aluminum cleaner, but I'm always
leery of chemical-type things.  Sometimes they damage the surface.

Mike
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 19:22:50 -0700
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] pot
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Soda blasting!

Doug


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 7:21 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> Anyone have some good suggestions on how to clean it
> better?  I suppose one can buy some sort of aluminum cleaner, but I'm
> always
> leery of chemical-type things.  Sometimes they damage the surface.
>
> Mike
_______________________________________________

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From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel@comcast.net>
To: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>, "Shop Talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] pot
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Status: RO

I've bead blasted a couple aluminum pots without apparent ill effects.

Bob K
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 21:48:25 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2BFD20A6E49840A19B03B131F1135C30@Mike>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] pot
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Status: RO

Cast iron would be easy - sand blast and reseason.  Aluminum might need a more delicate approach,
a lighter blasting medium.

mjb.
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 07:29:29 -0500
 FILETIME=[423BF990:01CF9F5F]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electrolysis rust removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Hi All.

While procrastinating a much needed oil change on my old Jeep, I decided to
set up a rust removal tank. I am happy with how well it works. Although I'd
rather my garage/shop area smelled of old grease instead of the perfumey gack
from the detergent. (And no worries on the ventilation of the gases: my garage
has no soffit and is bare wall 2x4 so the air circulates freely.)

Anyway, I am wondering if any one has any thoughts or experience on how long
the conductive solution is good for? Will this wear out eventually?

Thanks
tim
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 08:41:19 -0500
From: Greg Gelhar  <greg@gelhar.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrolysis rust removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I have a plastic 55 gallon barrel set up just outside my shop door. I use the same washing soda/water solution until cold weather arrives. When I clean the barrel, there is enough crud on the bottom that I would change out the solution even if wasn't going to freeze.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN
T-Mobile. Americabs First Nationwide 4G Network

"Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

>Hi All.
>
>While procrastinating a much needed oil change on my old Jeep, I decided to
>set up a rust removal tank. I am happy with how well it works. Although I'd
>rather my garage/shop area smelled of old grease instead of the perfumey gack
>from the detergent. (And no worries on the ventilation of the gases: my garage
>has no soffit and is bare wall 2x4 so the air circulates freely.)
>
>Anyway, I am wondering if any one has any thoughts or experience on how long
>the conductive solution is good for? Will this wear out eventually?
>
>Thanks
>tim
>_______________________________________________
>
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 17:18:19 -0500
References: <BLU180-W67881E49F9AEAFAE3E0F8AB40A0@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrolysis rust removal
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Next question, when I clean out the sludge on the bottom of the "tank"....'

Do people strain the solution at all or just pour off the top into a different
vessel then clean out the crud on the bottom? If you strain, what do you use?

Thanks!

From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Electrolysis rust removal
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 07:29:29 -0500




Hi All.

While procrastinating a much needed oil change on my old Jeep, I decided to
set up a rust removal tank. I am happy with how well it works. Although I'd
rather my garage/shop area smelled of old grease instead of the perfumey gack
from the detergent. (And no worries on the ventilation of the gases: my garage
has no soffit and is bare wall 2x4 so the air circulates freely.)

Anyway, I am wondering if any one has any thoughts or experience on how long
the conductive solution is good for? Will this wear out eventually?

Thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 19:23:59 -0700
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W67881E49F9AEAFAE3E0F8AB40A0@phx.gbl>
 <BLU180-W86FA617C5DDA1CD6B61862B4F40@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electrolysis rust removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I think most people just use it until it's so nasty they can't stand it 
and then dump it and start with a fresh batch.  I'm on the Old Wood 
Working Machines forum where a lot of guys use electrolysis for cleaning 
up old machines and I can't remember the topic of straining or cleaning 
the solution coming up.


On 7/17/2014 3:18 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Next question, when I clean out the sludge on the bottom of the "tank"....'
>
> Do people strain the solution at all or just pour off the top into a different
> vessel then clean out the crud on the bottom? If you strain, what do you use?
>
> Thanks!
>
> From: tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Electrolysis rust removal
> Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 07:29:29 -0500
>
>
>
>
> Hi All.
>
> While procrastinating a much needed oil change on my old Jeep, I decided to
> set up a rust removal tank. I am happy with how well it works. Although I'd
> rather my garage/shop area smelled of old grease instead of the perfumey gack
> from the detergent. (And no worries on the ventilation of the gases: my garage
> has no soffit and is bare wall 2x4 so the air circulates freely.)
>
> Anyway, I am wondering if any one has any thoughts or experience on how long
> the conductive solution is good for? Will this wear out eventually?
>
> Thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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