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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com>
	<81ve1n01a0NyJgq011vfdk> <000b01cf05dc$69407650$3bc162f0$@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/30/2013 10:57 PM, ElanS4 wrote:
>> I'm an IT pro and have had to deal with backups for decades.
>
> Me too, or at least I used to be.  Years ago, I used to back up my work
> system (a VAX) onto 8mm digital video tape and carry the backup home with me

Cool ;) Love me some VAXen and Exabytes (or used to).

USB flash drives are so cheap now, that's the way to go. Just do not 
depend on only one or limited ability to back-track. Have you heard 
about the "cryptolocker" thing? It's both ingenious and despicable. 
Friend's company got it and it chewed up files on their servers, and 
they were syncing to a SINGLE other media, so the messed up files over 
wrote the good versions. Someone should be fired over it; but at least 
it's a good lesson for others in the biz.

-Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 13:47:28 2014
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Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 12:45:43 -0800
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com>
	<81ve1n01a0NyJgq011vfdk> <000b01cf05dc$69407650$3bc162f0$@cox.net>
	<52C47CC4.70208@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  Hey, I still run a VAX (OpenAlpha). Its a great webserver and file 
server, no one knows how to hack it :)

  I have a Buffalo RAID device and its wonderful, just enough heat and 
air circulation to keep rust away from the guns in the safe.

     mike

  On 1/1/2014 12:38 PM, w wrote:
> On 12/30/2013 10:57 PM, ElanS4 wrote:
>>> I'm an IT pro and have had to deal with backups for decades.
>>
>> Me too, or at least I used to be.  Years ago, I used to back up my work
>> system (a VAX) onto 8mm digital video tape and carry the backup home 
>> with me
>
> Cool ;) Love me some VAXen and Exabytes (or used to).
>
> USB flash drives are so cheap now, that's the way to go. Just do not 
> depend on only one or limited ability to back-track. Have you heard 
> about the "cryptolocker" thing? It's both ingenious and despicable. 
> Friend's company got it and it chewed up files on their servers, and 
> they were syncing to a SINGLE other media, so the messed up files over 
> wrote the good versions. Someone should be fired over it; but at least 
> it's a good lesson for others in the biz.
>
> -Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 15:45:18 2014
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From: "ElanS4" <ElanS4@cox.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com>
	<81ve1n01a0NyJgq011vfdk> <000b01cf05dc$69407650$3bc162f0$@cox.net>
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 17:41:31 -0500
Thread-Index: AQD1OJBUESVMyzcGfqvYTrcAq72wZAIqUvgSAcUn6k8CG/Ax75vztzVA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>  Cool ;) Love me some VAXen and Exabytes (or used to).
> 
> USB flash drives are so cheap now, that's the way to go. 

Back when I first started with the VAX, it was the top of the line VAX 780,
with all the options (for a classified project).  We actually had two 512 MB
fixed drives and a 250 Meg removable drive.  All three were the size of a
washing machine.  The removable drive was one of those multi disk platter
things with the plastic housing you slipped down to clamp on and remove it.
And the VAX had a full 12 meg of memory - not 12 gig, 12 meg.  My cell phone
has more computing power than that thing had, and it's an old out dated
"dumb" phone.

Back in the simple days, when things were simpler, and cars had points.

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 16:05:32 2014
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'ElanS4'" <ElanS4@cox.net>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com>
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 17:03:48 -0600
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That was called a disk pack.  New in the late 60's.
In the same time period at Western Electric Hawthorne Works our IBM 360/20
(we used it for a glorified tab machine) would get payroll info from Western
Electric Atlanta over an acoustic modem.  I don't recall for certain any
more but I think it was slower than 300 baud.
Karl

-----Original Message-----
From: ElanS4
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.

We actually had two 512 MB fixed drives and a 250 Meg removable drive.  All
three were the size of a washing machine.  The removable drive was one of
those multi disk platter things with the plastic housing you slipped down to
clamp on and remove it.

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 16:16:37 2014
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: 'shop-talk List' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I started doing my high school homework on an IBM 1620.  And after a 
quarter of a
century as a sys admin at the U of U, and about that long with Team.Net, 
I've seen a
lot of changes.

I keep thinking I should spend a day or so digging out ALL the computer 
stuff I have
stashed away in various places around the house, put it all in one big 
pile and post
a few pictures.  RealSoonNow.  As an example I have a Seagate 1 Gig SCSI 
drive sitting
here with a red UU property tag on it.  Back then, 1 Gig was so 
expensive the disk was
considered a capital asset.  I can't find the file I put together that 
showed the list
price of the system on my desk at work was worth 3 times what we paid 
for our house!

And on a side note, thanks to those of you who made use of Paypal and 
the post office
to direct some Christmas cheer towards Team.Net.  I'm about 1,300 emails 
behind since
getting back from Christmas in California, I hope to get the through and 
give thanks where
thanks is due.

Have a great 2014!

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah, the good 'ol days.  Back in the early '60s, when our computer was some 
bamboo that slid back and forth, I was working on highway design, and we 
needed more accuracy, so we used 15 place log tables for hand calcs.  Then, 
headquarters got a mainframe, and we would fill out forms, which would be 
couriered to Sacramento (meaning somebody drove up there from SFO), and we 
would get the answers back the next day.  Of course, by that time we had 
done it all by hand, so we could check to see if the computer did it right.

Mike 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk List'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 17:57:17 -0800
Thread-index: Ac8HR1b0f7D5+JHvSmuKXnm6fGk/1QAFgelA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I keep thinking I should spend a day or so digging out ALL 
> the computer  stuff I have
> stashed away in various places around the house, put it all 
> in one big  pile and post
> a few pictures. 

Sounds like a fun project.  I sure wish I knew what happened to the 16kb of core memory that I used to have hanging on my office
wall (PC board about 8" square and 1/2" thick), but it somehow got lost during a move.  Most of the other stuff (like the Z80 fully
loaded with 64kb of RAM and a whopping 5Mb hard drive) I've thrown away over the years.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 21:28:40 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm considering an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts (automotive and hobby
parts).  This would include metal parts as well as plastic.  For examples,
today I was cleaning the side market lights on my TR8 and thought it would
be handy to clean the insides and crevices.  Anyone have recommendations
for the cleaning unit and what cleanings fluids to use?  I see several
units at about 2-2.5 liter capacity for the $100 range.  I'd like to go
bigger but the price seems to go up fast.  People seem to use Simple Green
and similar water based detergents.

Thanks, Ben.....
_______________________________________________

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References: <52C4A0BA.1060202@bradakis.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 20:44:29 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: shop-talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

*When I clean out my storage building; I'll have 3 Texas Instrument 99/4
computers and a cubic yard of expansion boxes and program cartridges.  Over
in the corner is an Apple 2C with all it's gear. . . why don't I get rid of
all this history? *
Tony


On 1 January 2014 17:11, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> I started doing my high school homework on an IBM 1620.  And after a
> quarter of a
> century as a sys admin at the U of U, and about that long with Team.Net,
> I've seen a
> lot of changes.
>
> I keep thinking I should spend a day or so digging out ALL the computer
> stuff I have
> stashed away in various places around the house, put it all in one big
> pile and post
> a few pictures.  RealSoonNow.  As an example I have a Seagate 1 Gig SCSI
> drive sitting
> here with a red UU property tag on it.  Back then, 1 Gig was so expensive
> the disk was
> considered a capital asset.  I can't find the file I put together that
> showed the list
> price of the system on my desk at work was worth 3 times what we paid for
> our house!
>
> And on a side note, thanks to those of you who made use of Paypal and the
> post office
> to direct some Christmas cheer towards Team.Net.  I'm about 1,300 emails
> behind since
> getting back from Christmas in California, I hope to get the through and
> give thanks where
> thanks is due.
>
> Have a great 2014!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 20:49:54 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I used a 2 liter unit for years with Simple Green with good results on
small engine carburetors and auto engine carburetor parts.  I'll be
interested in what other people have learned about this useful device.


On 1 January 2014 20:28, Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm considering an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts (automotive and hobby
> parts).  This would include metal parts as well as plastic.  For examples,
> today I was cleaning the side market lights on my TR8 and thought it would
> be handy to clean the insides and crevices.  Anyone have recommendations
> for the cleaning unit and what cleanings fluids to use?  I see several
> units at about 2-2.5 liter capacity for the $100 range.  I'd like to go
> bigger but the price seems to go up fast.  People seem to use Simple Green
> and similar water based detergents.
>
> Thanks, Ben.....
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 19:04:08 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: 'shop-talk List' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
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On 1/1/2014 5:57 PM, Randall wrote:
>> I keep thinking I should spend a day or so digging out ALL
>> the computer  stuff I have
>> stashed away in various places around the house, put it all
>> in one big  pile and post
>> a few pictures.
I still have my first computer, a1981  Seequa Chameleon "transportable" 
suitcase computer that had both an 8081 and a Z80 chip and would run 
both DOS and CPM.  It came with two 160 K (I think) full height floppy 
drives and 128 K of RAM.  I eventually upgraded it to half height, 
double sided drives and 256 K of ram. The motherboard wouldn't support a 
HDD.  At one point it had a 300 baud Volksmodem hung off the side, but 
it was pretty useless for much pre-WWW stuff.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
_______________________________________________

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From: rwil@sbcglobal.net
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 20:10:19 -0800
References: <52C4A0BA.1060202@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: ForteAgent/7.20.32.1218
Cc: 'shop-talk List' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
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My first computer at Douglas Aircraft was an IBM 704.  At JPL it was a
709 and then a 7094 (transistorized).  We wrote in machine language
and Fortran and punched cards with each instruction line.   32K of
memory and tape drives.  Our link to Goldstone was via 5-hole Teletype
paper tape, fed into a reader at JPL.  Amazing what you can do with a
little computing power.  We needed 16-digit precision and I wonder
what is used now to get that precision and possibly more.  JPL had one
"Square Root Friden" calculator that we could use to verify the
programming.

A year later in grad school I was back to a 1620 like MJB.

-Roland

On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 16:11:54 -0700, MJB wrote:

>I started doing my high school homework on an IBM 1620.  And after a
>quarter of a
>century as a sys admin at the U of U, and about that long with Team.Net,
>I've seen a
>lot of changes.
>
>I keep thinking I should spend a day or so digging out ALL the computer
>stuff I have
>stashed away in various places around the house, put it all in one big
>pile and post
>a few pictures.  RealSoonNow.
_______________________________________________

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	<000b01cf05dc$69407650$3bc162f0$@cox.net>
	<002b01cf0742$9f6499c0$de2dcd40$@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 23:11:26 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: ElanS4 <ElanS4@cox.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I used one of those in school and in my first job.  A year or two ago I
visited the Computer History Museum in Mountain View, CA, and they had one
on display.  It's funny when something you remember new is now an antique...

Doug


On Wed, Jan 1, 2014 at 5:41 PM, ElanS4 <ElanS4@cox.net> wrote:

>
>
> Back when I first started with the VAX, it was the top of the line VAX 780,
> with all the options (for a classified project).  We actually had two 512
> MB
> fixed drives and a 250 Meg removable drive.  All three were the size of a
> washing machine.  The removable drive was one of those multi disk platter
> things with the plastic housing you slipped down to clamp on and remove it.
> And the VAX had a full 12 meg of memory - not 12 gig, 12 meg.  My cell
> phone
> has more computing power than that thing had, and it's an old out dated
> "dumb" phone.
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 23:14:40 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>, Shop-Talk
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a cheapo little one, meant for cleaning jewelry, that came form some
place like Brookstone.
It does clean stuff, but I have no idea how much better a "real" one would
work.
I wish there was something like a ultrasonic power meter that you could pip
into the bath.
Or could you just dip in your finger and tell?

Doug


On Wed, Jan 1, 2014 at 9:49 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark
<eltonclark@gmail.com>wrote:

> I used a 2 liter unit for years with Simple Green with good results on
> small engine carburetors and auto engine carburetor parts.  I'll be
> interested in what other people have learned about this useful device.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  1 23:19:19 2014
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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 1/1/2014 9:28 PM, Benjamin Zwissler wrote:
> I'm considering an ultrasonic cleaner for small parts (automotive and hobby
> parts).  This would include metal parts as well as plastic.  For examples,
> today I was cleaning the side market lights on my TR8 and thought it would

I have the el'cheapo $20 Horrible Freight unit. Usually use a small 
amount of 409 or Simple Green in it. I can't say the results are 
spectacular, but it does clean up glasses, jewelery, small parts, etc.

-w
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  2 06:31:53 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 08:03:20 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/02/2014 08:03:22, Serialize complete at
	01/02/2014 08:03:22
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
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Ben,

This is the one I got.  It works pretty well.  All the ones I looked at 
that were 'heated' all state that you should use water only.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365419_200365419 

If you are in NJ, you can stop by and give it a try!  8>)



Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 11:57:27 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>, Shop-Talk
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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If I stick my finger in my cheapo mini-cleaner, it stings a bit, but
doesn't hurt afterwards.
I should probably be on the lookout for a better one...

Doug


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 11:26 AM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark <eltonclark@gmail.com
> wrote:

> *I dabbled in my ultrasonic* *with one finger to reposition something and
> had a very sore knuckle for a week or so.*
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 11:11:28 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2 January 2014 10:57, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> If I stick my finger in my cheapo mini-cleaner, it stings a bit, but
> doesn't hurt afterwards.
> I should probably be on the lookout for a better one...
>

A better one might hurt worse!  I think it's a good idea to keep one's
fingers out of the solution while it's running
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 12:38:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Geez, you guys are going to make me talk about my HeathKit luggable.  :)
It
still works, although it takes a good 15 minutes to boot off the 5.25" floppy.
 MS-Dos 3.2 I think.  256K RAM.

I do recall messing with CPM too.  :)  I
still have a 56k modem sitting on the desk, but it hasn't been used since I
moved
to DSL (about 19yrs).  

Then I just got rid of DSL in favor of cable
speed. Guys at work are teasing me about changing
out my dial up. Only reason
I did it was because the video buffering got to be too much. 

Brian
>________________________________
> From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
>To:
'shop-talk List' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2014
10:04 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
> 
>
>On 1/1/2014 5:57 PM,
Randall wrote:
>>> I keep thinking I should spend a day or so digging out ALL
>>> the computer  stuff I have
>>> stashed away in various places around the
house, put it all
>>> in one big  pile and post
>>> a few pictures.
>I still
have my first computer, a1981  Seequa Chameleon "transportable" 
>suitcase
computer that had both an 8081 and a Z80 chip and would run 
>both DOS and
CPM.  It came with two 160 K (I think) full height floppy 
>drives and 128 K
of RAM.  I eventually upgraded it to half height, 
>double sided drives and
256 K of ram. The motherboard wouldn't support a 
>HDD.  At one point it had a
300 baud Volksmodem hung off the side, but 
>it was pretty useless for much
pre-WWW stuff.
>
>--
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2014 15:43:39 -0700
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2014 17:15:48 -0700
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From: <Pat@HORNESYSTEMSTX.COM>
To: "Battmain" <battmain@yahoo.com>, "shoptalk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2014 18:42:25 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Computer stuff
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, let's try this again!

I have been keeping some old stuff from my past
also:
NIB programming drum for an IBM 029 card punch/duplicator
Sealed TECO
manual
Osborne luggable computer - works

in 1972 when I started working at
the University of Texas at Austin they
had 300 baud acoustic couplers and a
"fast" 1200 baud dedicated line to
the mainframe. We used a Data General Nova
(not the 800, or 1200, just a
NOVA, serial Number 6) Calcomps, a Sigma-5, VAX
11-782, AT&T 3b20 and
several others I can't remember what they were.

When I
was doing some programming at home I connected to campus with one
of the
acoustic couplers connected to my KSR-33. 110 Baud is all that it
would do!
My first personal computer was a Ferguson "Big Board" Z-80. with a
Persci dual
floppy drive on it....who could ask for more!

Peace,
Pat


    <snip>
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	<1C3E2A8D544549A48AE2DAE4DD41AB8A@Antec300>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 16:29:13 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:10 PM, Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net> wrote:

> Temp - Cooler is better.  I don't know what a safe high temperature is.  I
> suspect every degree higher reduces the life by some factor, but I have no
> idea how much.  See my earlier post about my server system drive.
>
>
>
Google published some data about their drive reliability a few years ago.
One of the conclusions was temperature below instant death was not
correlated with early drive failure.  It's been a long time since I read
the paper, but drives run at cool temperatures had a higher early-death
rate than drives run hotter.
There was a bunch of data in it that was surprising to many people,
including that.  (and that most disk failures were not predicted by smart.
disks smart said were failing did tend to fail.)




-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 12:04:42 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 13:38:36 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/08/2014 13:38:38, Serialize complete at
	01/08/2014 13:38:38
Subject: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, so I finally sprung for a Thermo Imaging camera.  (FLIR E4.)

Its really simple to use.  I wanted it do find insulation links and other 
stuff.

One of the things I wanted to do was checking circuit breakers to find 
ones that are about to fail.

I checked my box and I found two that are running much hotter then the 
others. 

My question is, does this mean that they need to be replaced or is there 
other testing that I should do on them first?

One other question, are there other things I should use this camera for 
also?  Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 12:17:14 2014
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 19:11:19 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: eric@megageek.com
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Circuit breakers are not that spendy; just do it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: eric@megageek.com
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 12:38:36 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
> OK, so I finally sprung for a Thermo Imaging camera. (FLIR E4.)
> 
> Its really simple to use. I wanted it do find insulation links and
> other
> stuff.
> 
> One of the things I wanted to do was checking circuit breakers to find
> ones that are about to fail.
> 
> I checked my box and I found two that are running much hotter then the
> others.
> 
> My question is, does this mean that they need to be replaced or is
> there
> other testing that I should do on them first?
> 
> One other question, are there other things I should use this camera
> for
> also? Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Eric P
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 12:20:36 2014
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 13:18:19 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Remember that all breakers (even brand new, good units) will run warmer
when the have increased current flowing through them,  What you are looking
for are any breakers that are getting too hot.  I was told that 55C is a
good limit for this application.  If the actual temp of the breaker is less
than 55C, it's probably fine, more than that it should be replaced.  But
you should also use some common sense here.  If you have a circuit that is
only drawing 10 amps, and it is heating the breaker to 50C, that is highly
suspicious.  If you have a circuit pulling 90amps, then 50C is probably
fine.


On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 12:38 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, so I finally sprung for a Thermo Imaging camera.  (FLIR E4.)
>
> Its really simple to use.  I wanted it do find insulation links and other
> stuff.
>
> One of the things I wanted to do was checking circuit breakers to find
> ones that are about to fail.
>
> I checked my box and I found two that are running much hotter then the
> others.
>
> My question is, does this mean that they need to be replaced or is there
> other testing that I should do on them first?
>
> One other question, are there other things I should use this camera for
> also?  Any ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 12:33:32 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8MpmvRxIQK1ff0Ru2YZTZ9NvuVtQACYB+g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I was told  that 55C is a
> good limit for this application. 

My opinion, that is more of a design limit.  With the surrounding box at 25C, the breaker shouldn't be nearly that hot even with
maximum rated current flowing continuously.  IMO anything more than about 15C rise over ambient is cause for suspicion.

But it might not be the breaker at fault.  Last time I found one warm to the touch, the wire connection had worked loose and was
getting hot.  All it needed was cleaning and tightening.

Low level overloads (eg 18 amps on a 15 amp breaker) can also get them hot, but not quite hot enough to trip.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 15:09:54 2014
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Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 17:07:37 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>, eric@megageek.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You should certainly be able to check that the wiring connections are OK.
You could also pull a suspect breaker from the panel to ensure that it is
properly
connected to the bus bar.

I think loose or corroded connections are more likely to be the cause of
the problem
than an internal defect.

Doug
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 15:37:45 2014
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Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2014 15:26:02 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:26.0) Gecko/20100101
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References: <OF3A24B4DF.BC9DE14C-ON85257C5A.00678F88-85257C5A.00681258@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

eric@megageek.com wrote:
> One other question, are there other things I should use this camera for
> also?  Any ideas?
>
>

I remember watching some humorous footage on Youtube about using thermal
imaging to show people's farts.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 15:38:05 2014
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CANuE7YBbqhJuNyqh8JxodD8V5XMtxJxAJCXVEi_ooe2HDHcEtg@mail.gmail.com><03.A3.00868.E16BDC25@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
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In my experience, it is rare for a breaker to fail slowly.  More likely is a 
bad connection.  I had one once where somebody had put the wrong breaker in 
the box, and it didn't fit the bar tightly.  After awhile, the whole 
connection corroded so badly I had to replace the entire box.  Fortunately, 
it wasn't the main box, but still..........

Mike
========================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Doug Braun" <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "Shop-Talk" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>; <eric@megageek.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera


> You should certainly be able to check that the wiring connections are OK.
> You could also pull a suspect breaker from the panel to ensure that it is
> properly
> connected to the bus bar.
>
> I think loose or corroded connections are more likely to be the cause of
> the problem
> than an internal defect.
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  8 15:52:20 2014
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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF3A24B4DF.BC9DE14C-ON85257C5A.00678F88-85257C5A.00681258@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
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On 1/8/2014 1:38 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so I finally sprung for a Thermo Imaging camera.  (FLIR E4.)

Woah! Nice toy. Err, tool. Prices have come down on the things a bunch 
it appears. Thought I was doing well to score a Fluke meter and IR 
thermometer. Still trolling ebay for a Tek' scope.

> One of the things I wanted to do was checking circuit breakers to find
> ones that are about to fail.

My Fluke 62 IR showed some being 1 to 3 deg F above others. GFCIs in 
mine pull 1 to 3 watts even with nothing plugged in. Two were more like 
7 or 8 deg and I replaced them.

> One other question, are there other things I should use this camera for
> also?  Any ideas?

Bring it over to my place!

-wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 05:54:11 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 07:20:00 -0500
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Subject: [Shop-talk] Furnace Pilot Light
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When I was cleaning the burners in my furnace (an older Bryant), I noticed
that I could not easily blow through the tube going to the pilot light.
Before I get too aggressive, should there be any resriction in that tube?

Greg G.
Near Minneapolis where it's been realy cold.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 06:13:10 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 08:10:49 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: greg@gelhar.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Furnace Pilot Light
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There's typically an orifice to control the flow.  Depending on where
you're blowing that might be downstream of you.

Ben....

On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 7:20 AM, <greg@gelhar.com> wrote:

> When I was cleaning the burners in my furnace (an older Bryant), I noticed
> that I could not easily blow through the tube going to the pilot light.
> Before I get too aggressive, should there be any resriction in that tube?
>
> Greg G.
> Near Minneapolis where it's been realy cold.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 08:14:19 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: greg@gelhar.com
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Furnace Pilot Light
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Was your furance working fine and you chose the coldest weather in 20 years
to tear it apart for a cleaning?!?!

If it ain't broke...

-Paul
On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 7:20 AM, <greg@gelhar.com> wrote:

> When I was cleaning the burners in my furnace (an older Bryant), I noticed
> that I could not easily blow through the tube going to the pilot light.
> Before I get too aggressive, should there be any resriction in that tube?
>
> Greg G.
> Near Minneapolis where it's been realy cold.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 11:05:20 2014
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
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On Wednesday, January 08, 2014, at 14:44, w wrote:

> Woah! Nice toy. Err, tool. Prices have come down on the things a bunch 
> it appears. 

And now there's an iPhone app: http://www1.flircs.com/flirone/ 

Bob K
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 11:06:25 2014
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 13:04:06 -0500
References: <OF3A24B4DF.BC9DE14C-ON85257C5A.00678F88-85257C5A.00681258@mail.megageek.com>,
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	FILETIME=[306FB940:01CF0D65]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Thermo Imaging camera
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One of the most interesting things to happen this F1 season (haha) were the
new thermal imaging cameras they were using:
http://www.flirnews.com/2013/09/07/see-thermal-images-of-f1-tires-in-action/
I could see using it in a similar way either under the hood on my turbo'd car,
or positioned over a brake caliper or wheel/tire to get some cool video during
track days.
I also came across this last
night:http://gizmodo.com/flir-just-turned-your-iphone-5-into-a-predator-like-
the-1496554213
Cool tool! (get it?)
-PJ
> > One other question, are there other things I should use this camera for
> > also?  Any ideas?
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 20:00:11 -0500
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
	FILETIME=[7B88E330:01CF0E68]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a cell phone booster for my vacation home and figured this was the best
place to turn for guidance.  Heres the background:

I have AT&T and my wife has Verizon; iPhone 5s for me and iPhone 4 for her.  I
am the one who primarily needs the boost, but it would be nice to get
something that would enhance my wifes signal, too.  (And, please dont take
that sentence out of context!)  The AT&T signal here is ok in most of the
house (ok defined as 2 bars - I can send and receive calls), except for the
area I am trying to use as my home office.  There I only get one bar and can
send and receive text messages, but most calls do not get through.  My wife
has two bars throughout the house, so her signal is adequate everywhere.
(BTW: the house is less than 800 sq ft, so the distance from the adequate to
the inadequate rooms is only a couple of steps.)  We have cable wifi and that
signal is excellent throughout.

I have to do something to improve the AT&T signal, but it would be nice to get
something that would work for both our phones.  And, as always, it would be
nice not to spend too much money.  The easy solution for me looks to be an
AT&T Microcell, but it would be nice to get something that worked for Verizon,
too.  Something like this sounds perfect
(http://www.amazon.com/zBoost-YX545-Dual-Band-Booster-Coverage/dp/B003VOW5WI/
ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) and it is less expensive then the Microcell when
bought from AT&T, but Id like to hear from someone I trust before investing
$200.  And, given that I only need the boost in one room, whatever solution I
go with wouldnt necessarily have to be wireless.  Id be ok with something a
lot less expensive that only worked when the phone was connected to it or
right next to it.

As always, thanks!   Any advice will be appreciated.

Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 19:11:03 2014
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 20:28:00 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/10/2014 20:27:57, Serialize complete at
	01/10/2014 20:27:57
Subject: [Shop-talk] How much to weigh the back of a plow truck
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I have a GMC 3500 Duelie mason dump that I would like to use as a plow 
truck.

I have a "Great Bear" plow (LIGHT duty ONLY) that is already hooked up to 
it.  The truck is only rear wheel drive.

It works great for plowing, until it losses traction.  I'm figuring if I 
can put enough weight in the back, it would fix the problem for the most 
part.

Once I know HOW much weight I need, I plan to make a concrete block that 
has forklift holes so I can load it in and out easily.

But how do I figure out how much weight I need?  Any ideas?

Also, am I on the wrong track?  Will the weight fix it?  Is two wheel 
drive (well, 4 wheel if you count the duelies) not ever going to work?

 I have a pair of duelie snow chains for it, but I can't drive down the 
road on them.

Note:  I'm not looking to do this as a business. I just want to plow out 
myself, my neighbors, tenants, and my parents.

Thanks in advance

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 19:25:48 2014
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References: <BLU0-SMTP208EF623EBC25B94C166253CCB20@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 20:08:32 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We have similar issues at our new place, but we only have to worry about
Verizon. I did some research and ended up getting a Wilson DB Pro through
Amazon. It was around $340. Not cheap, but it works. It consists of a 13 db
gain very directional antenna that I mounted on top of 25 feet of mast.
That attaches to an amp where drives a hemispherical flat panel indoor
antenna.

The first thing I did was call Verizon tech support and find out the
closest Verizon towers to our place. and figured out the relative compass
headings. Once we get settled I plan to put the outside antenna up at
around 50 feet. That should improve things quite a bit.

In your situation, you may get lucky and either be able to use an
omnidirectional outside antenna, if both AT&T and Verizon have towers close
enough to you. More likely they won't be so close and they'll be in
different directions (Murphy rears his ugly head) and you'll need separate
setups with directional antennas for each provider.

We're dealing with small, relatively cheap radios here with non-optimal
antennas and the frequencies they operate at aren't good for going through
hills and around buildings. That's just the nature of the beast.

FWIW,
Ron


On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 7:00 PM, James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:

> I need a cell phone booster for my vacation home and figured this was the
> best
> place to turn for guidance.  Here s the background:
>
> I have AT&T and my wife has Verizon; iPhone 5s for me and iPhone 4 for
> her.  I
> am the one who primarily needs the boost, but it would be nice to get
> something that would enhance my wife s signal, too.  (And, please don t
> take
> that sentence out of context!)  The AT&T signal here is ok in most of the
> house ( ok  defined as 2 bars - I can send and receive calls), except for
> the
> area I am trying to use as my home office.  There I only get one bar and
> can
> send and receive text messages, but most calls do not get through.  My wife
> has two bars throughout the house, so her signal is adequate everywhere.
> (BTW: the house is less than 800 sq ft, so the distance from the adequate
> to
> the inadequate rooms is only a couple of steps.)  We have cable wifi and
> that
> signal is excellent throughout.
>
> I have to do something to improve the AT&T signal, but it would be nice to
> get
> something that would work for both our phones.  And, as always, it would be
> nice not to spend too much money.  The easy solution for me looks to be an
> AT&T Microcell, but it would be nice to get something that worked for
> Verizon,
> too.  Something like this sounds perfect
> (
> http://www.amazon.com/zBoost-YX545-Dual-Band-Booster-Coverage/dp/B003VOW5WI/
> ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) and it is less expensive then the Microcell when
> bought from AT&T, but I d like to hear from someone I trust before
> investing
> $200.  And, given that I only need the boost in one room, whatever
> solution I
> go with wouldn t necessarily have to be wireless.  I d be ok with
> something a
> lot less expensive that only worked when the phone was connected to it or
> right next to it.
>
> As always, thanks!   Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 20:11:00 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 20:55:10 -0600
From: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP208EF623EBC25B94C166253CCB20@phx.gbl>
	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The first thing to do is climb up on the roof and see if you have enough 
signal to be reliable.  If you do you can use an omni antenna with a 
booster for both systems.  If you still have marginal signal on one or 
both carriers you will need more height and perhaps a higher gain 
antenna.  The cell booster amplifiers obviously need a strong signal to 
boost, don't skimp on the transmission line between the inside and out.  
The Wilson products work well for consumer grade products, the 
commercial systems are pricy but very effective.

Mark
Nashville

On 1/10/2014 7:00 PM, James Stone wrote:
> I need a cell phone booster for my vacation home and figured this was the best
> place to turn for guidance.  Heres the background:
>
> I have AT&T and my wife has Verizon; iPhone 5s for me and iPhone 4 for her.  I
> am the one who primarily needs the boost, but it would be nice to get
> something that would enhance my wifes signal, too.  (And, please dont take
> that sentence out of context!)  The AT&T signal here is ok in most of the
> house (ok defined as 2 bars - I can send and receive calls), except for the
> area I am trying to use as my home office.  There I only get one bar and can
> send and receive text messages, but most calls do not get through.  My wife
> has two bars throughout the house, so her signal is adequate everywhere.
> (BTW: the house is less than 800 sq ft, so the distance from the adequate to
> the inadequate rooms is only a couple of steps.)  We have cable wifi and that
> signal is excellent throughout.
>
> I have to do something to improve the AT&T signal, but it would be nice to get
> something that would work for both our phones.  And, as always, it would be
> nice not to spend too much money.  The easy solution for me looks to be an
> AT&T Microcell, but it would be nice to get something that worked for Verizon,
> too.  Something like this sounds perfect
> (http://www.amazon.com/zBoost-YX545-Dual-Band-Booster-Coverage/dp/B003VOW5WI/
> ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) and it is less expensive then the Microcell when
> bought from AT&T, but Id like to hear from someone I trust before investing
> $200.  And, given that I only need the boost in one room, whatever solution I
> go with wouldnt necessarily have to be wireless.  Id be ok with something a
> lot less expensive that only worked when the phone was connected to it or
> right next to it.
>
> As always, thanks!   Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 20:26:19 2014
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To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>, "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net"
	<shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
From: Bill Gilroy <bill.gilroy@outlook.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 18:59:51 -0800
	FILETIME=[3F805380:01CF0E79]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How much to weigh the back of a plow truck
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Back when I lived in NJ most plow rigs had a load of sand or salt and a
spreader.

Sent from my Windows Phone
________________________________
Sent: b1/b10/b2014 6:08 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] How much to weigh the back of a plow truck

OK, I have a GMC 3500 Duelie mason dump that I would like to use as a plow
truck.

I have a "Great Bear" plow (LIGHT duty ONLY) that is already hooked up to
it.  The truck is only rear wheel drive.

It works great for plowing, until it losses traction.  I'm figuring if I
can put enough weight in the back, it would fix the problem for the most
part.

Once I know HOW much weight I need, I plan to make a concrete block that
has forklift holes so I can load it in and out easily.

But how do I figure out how much weight I need?  Any ideas?

Also, am I on the wrong track?  Will the weight fix it?  Is two wheel
drive (well, 4 wheel if you count the duelies) not ever going to work?

 I have a pair of duelie snow chains for it, but I can't drive down the
road on them.

Note:  I'm not looking to do this as a business. I just want to plow out
myself, my neighbors, tenants, and my parents.

Thanks in advance

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bill.gilroy@outlook.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 20:41:45 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 19:19:22 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:14.0) Gecko/20120713
	Thunderbird/14.0
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF2D7C9967.03256992-ON85257C5D.0009020F-85257C5D.0009B84F@mail.megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How much to weigh the back of a plow truck
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think some tire chains would go a long way to solving the traction 
problem...unless you've already done that.  Dualies have notoriously bad 
traction in snow due to the large footprint leading to just sliding around.


On 1/10/2014 5:28 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I have a GMC 3500 Duelie mason dump that I would like to use as a plow
> truck.
>
> I have a "Great Bear" plow (LIGHT duty ONLY) that is already hooked up to
> it.  The truck is only rear wheel drive.
>
> It works great for plowing, until it losses traction.  I'm figuring if I
> can put enough weight in the back, it would fix the problem for the most
> part.
>
> Once I know HOW much weight I need, I plan to make a concrete block that
> has forklift holes so I can load it in and out easily.
>
> But how do I figure out how much weight I need?  Any ideas?
>
> Also, am I on the wrong track?  Will the weight fix it?  Is two wheel
> drive (well, 4 wheel if you count the duelies) not ever going to work?
>
>   I have a pair of duelie snow chains for it, but I can't drive down the
> road on them.
>
> Note:  I'm not looking to do this as a business. I just want to plow out
> myself, my neighbors, tenants, and my parents.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 22:35:29 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP208EF623EBC25B94C166253CCB20@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At my house, the Verizon signal used to be good enough, but something 
changed and it got worse.  I ended  up getting a Samsung Network 
Extender through Verizon.  This connects to my broadband router, and 
creates a mini cell site just for me.  I have found that it is a big 
improvement.  If I relocate the device to a more central spot in my 
house, I'm sure it will be even better.  For this device, you have to 
have broadband service and it needs a GPS signal.  This means it has 
to be located near a window or you have to use the remote GPS 
antenna.  I can't tell you why exactly it needs a GPS signal, but it 
does.  And it's not just needed at setup time.  If it loses the 
signal it eventually starts to complain.  The only other issue is the 
price, but I complained enough to Verizon that they offered it to me 
for $100.  It was listed as "refurbished" but it looked brand new to 
me.  Here it is:

http://www.verizonwireless.com/accessories/samsung-network-extender-scs-2u01/

You would also have to do some research to find out if it works for 
non-Verizon phones.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 08:00 PM 1/10/2014, James Stone wrote:
>I need a cell phone booster for my vacation home and figured this was the best
>place to turn for guidance.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 21:43:55 2014
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Steven Trovato" <strovato@optonline.net>, "Shop Talk"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP208EF623EBC25B94C166253CCB20@phx.gbl>
	<0MZ70046ZWONLD80@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 20:18:07 -0800
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

As per Steve Trovatobs comments, we done the identical thing, although
with Sprint.  It sits next to my router in my home office.  Suddenly I went
from maybe 1 bar, to a full 5 bar strength.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steven Trovato
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 7:35 PM
To: Shop Talk List
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters

At my house, the Verizon signal used to be good enough, but something
changed and it got worse.  I ended  up getting a Samsung Network
Extender through Verizon.  This connects to my broadband router, and
creates a mini cell site just for me.  I have found that it is a big
improvement.  If I relocate the device to a more central spot in my
house, I'm sure it will be even better.  For this device, you have to
have broadband service and it needs a GPS signal.  This means it has
to be located near a window or you have to use the remote GPS
antenna.  I can't tell you why exactly it needs a GPS signal, but it
does.  And it's not just needed at setup time.  If it loses the
signal it eventually starts to complain.  The only other issue is the
price, but I complained enough to Verizon that they offered it to me
for $100.  It was listed as "refurbished" but it looked brand new to
me.  Here it is:

http://www.verizonwireless.com/accessories/samsung-network-extender-scs-2u01/

You would also have to do some research to find out if it works for
non-Verizon phones.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 08:00 PM 1/10/2014, James Stone wrote:
>I need a cell phone booster for my vacation home and figured this was the
best
>place to turn for guidance.
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 08:36:34 2014
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From: Tim Hoerning <tim@chenhoerning.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 10:30:53 -0500
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
	N0YTnYHD6O6/PKbL8dNsQAFRkLwgRCQc/F7VjO9JfCu8WiDBcO
	TCLWKrcC2m8+2kTwm/X7M0ztJgDX8OlD4CZhvkGKAxGg5WrXx6
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Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Verizon needs a GPS because the radio transmission format  they use (CDMA2000
1xRTT) requires all cell sites (including your samsung micro-cell) to be
synchronized. The GPS signal is being used for timing, not position.

I've never used one of these extender products, but have used a number of
Wilson products and can recommend them.

    Tim

Sent from my Commodore 64 over a 300 baud modem

> On Jan 10, 2014, at 10:35 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
wrote:
>
> At my house, the Verizon signal used to be good enough, but something
changed and it got worse.  I ended  up getting a Samsung Network Extender
through Verizon.  This connects to my broadband router, and creates a mini
cell site just for me.  I have found that it is a big improvement.  If I
relocate the device to a more central spot in my house, I'm sure it will be
even better.  For this device, you have to have broadband service and it needs
a GPS signal.  This means it has to be located near a window or you have to
use the remote GPS antenna.  I can't tell you why exactly it needs a GPS
signal, but it does.  And it's not just needed at setup time.  If it loses the
signal it eventually starts to complain.  The only other issue is the price,
but I complained enough to Verizon that they offered it to me for $100.  It
was listed as "refurbished" but it looked brand new to me.  Here it is:
>
>
http://www.verizonwireless.com/accessories/samsung-network-extender-scs-2u01/
>
> You would also have to do some research to find out if it works for
non-Verizon phones.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
> At 08:00 PM 1/10/2014, James Stone wrote:
>> I need a cell phone booster for my vacation home and figured this was the
best
>> place to turn for guidance.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/hoerni@cooper.edu
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 08:52:09 2014
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Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 10:38:51 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP208EF623EBC25B94C166253CCB20@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks Tim.  I thought maybe they were concerned that my house had 
slid into a different area code or something.  Your explanation is 
much better!

-Steve

At 10:30 AM 1/11/2014, Tim Hoerning wrote:
>Verizon needs a GPS because the radio transmission format  they use 
>(CDMA2000 1xRTT) requires all cell sites (including your samsung 
>micro-cell) to be synchronized. The GPS signal is being used for 
>timing, not position.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 20:37:28 2014
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Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 22:04:55 -0500
From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP208EF623EBC25B94C166253CCB20@phx.gbl>
	<0MZ70046ZWONLD80@mta3.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 1/11/2014 10:30 AM, Tim Hoerning wrote:
> Verizon needs a GPS because the radio transmission format  they use (CDMA2000
> 1xRTT) requires all cell sites (including your samsung micro-cell) to be
> synchronized. The GPS signal is being used for timing, not position.

If you still have use for a land line, check out Verizon's "home 
connect" service. It's a little black box like a wi-fi router that has a 
cellular radio along with electronics to drive regular POTS (err.. 
standard home) phones. Only $20/mo unlimited national calling, or if you 
have cell service with them and want to share minutes it's only $10/mo. 
Killer bargain, and good sound quality. Supposedly uses older equipment 
on the towers that's under utilized. Few extra bucks for them, cheap 
service, and screw the competition.

> Sent from my Commodore 64 over a 300 baud modem

HuhHuh, I taught myself raw f***** 6502 on nearly bare metal machine 
code (NO, not assembler, my 'rents and high school wouldn't drop $50 on 
it) in high school in the early 80s to code video games fast enough to 
run on an Apple ][. Breakout in 1536 bytes. And had a PDP 11/35 in Mom's 
basement in the mid 80s. Bare metal? Toggle 12 words on the switches, 
reset address, and hit the run button.

-w
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 19:24:53 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] solar battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

thinking about some gear that might be handy if the SHTF situation comes
along... the ability to recharge batteries might be a good thing... I have a
solar charger that I use to charge my batteries on my car hauler trailer...
for the winch and the breakaway battery...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FX10ES/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if would be nice if I could hook this up (thru an inverter) to a multi type
battery charger I also have

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008467K1E/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it only draws .6 amps at max... so a small inverter should do the trick right
???

if anyone doing or planning anything like this I'd love to hear your ideas,
plans, experiences

boy scout still inside ther.... be prepared
thanks
john



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 12 19:25:44 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 18:21:48 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8QAS80OEr5hjgKSoePNZnd9HpJ3wAAzKcQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] solar battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> if would be nice if I could hook this up (thru an inverter) 
> to a multi type
> battery charger I also have
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008467K1E/ref=wms_ohs_produc
> t?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> it only draws .6 amps at max... so a small inverter should do 
> the trick right
> ???

I see a wall wart ... Have you looked at powering the charger directly from the solar panel & battery setup?  I think there's a
chance the charger could run directly from the panel, but even if you had to regulate it down a bit, I suspect the result would be
more efficient than trying to invert 12v up to 110ac and then run it back through the wall wart.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 01:52:10 2014
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2014 18:03:16 -0500
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	<52D20657.50401@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[30779A20:01CF1026]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell phone boosters
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Thanks guys.  This was very helpful.  I had done some research on the topic
before posting the question, but that didnt tell me everything I needed to
know.  The information from this group enabled me to do a little more targeted
surfing and I found an excellent write up on the topic from PCWord:
http://www.pcworld.com/article/194059/wireless_dead_zone.html  It is a couple
of years old, which is usually a killer, but it doesnt look like the
technology has changed much since this was written.
Im not sure yet which way I will go, but I am now an educated consumer, which
is a good start!
Jim



On Jan 11, 2014, at 10:04 PM, w <wc5813@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 1/11/2014 10:30 AM, Tim Hoerning wrote:
>> Verizon needs a GPS because the radio transmission format  they use
(CDMA2000
>> 1xRTT) requires all cell sites (including your samsung micro-cell) to be
>> synchronized. The GPS signal is being used for timing, not position.
>
> If you still have use for a land line, check out Verizon's "home connect"
service. It's a little black box like a wi-fi router that has a cellular radio
along with electronics to drive regular POTS (err.. standard home) phones.
Only $20/mo unlimited national calling, or if you have cell service with them
and want to share minutes it's only $10/mo. Killer bargain, and good sound
quality. Supposedly uses older equipment on the towers that's under utilized.
Few extra bucks for them, cheap service, and screw the competition.
>
>> Sent from my Commodore 64 over a 300 baud modem
>
> HuhHuh, I taught myself raw f***** 6502 on nearly bare metal machine code
(NO, not assembler, my 'rents and high school wouldn't drop $50 on it) in high
school in the early 80s to code video games fast enough to run on an Apple ][.
Breakout in 1536 bytes. And had a PDP 11/35 in Mom's basement in the mid 80s.
Bare metal? Toggle 12 words on the switches, reset address, and hit the run
button.
>
> -w
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 18:18:40 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 01/13/2014 18:18:03, Serialize complete at
	01/13/2014 18:18:03
Subject: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
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Well, I finally had my water tested since the new well, and of course it 
looks like I need some treatments. (Questions in BOLD)

First, I had a 'free water testing' done by a local plumbing chain.  They 
are the ones that gave me the test results.

Should I pay for a water test from a local lab to make sure they are just 
tell everyone their water is bad to sell systems?

Next, I had acidic water, 5.5 I believe (I had to wait to get the actual 
results), then I had hardwater (to be expected), and finally I had iron in 
the water.

The Iron I'm not worried about. (you can't see, or smell it.)

The hard water, I wanted to treat with an electronic system. Does anyone 
know if they work, or are they snake oil?

Finally, I have to install a system to neutralize the water.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what I should do?

I plan to do the work myself, am I crazy?

Thanks in advance.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 03:05:47 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 23:03:42 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8Q7ZFqdLT2OX63SOyhNUg6F8GIdgAB3EGQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
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> Next, I had acidic water, 5.5 I believe 

5.5 is not bad at all, that is less acidic than rainwater!  Unless it is causing a specific problem, I'd leave it alone.

OTOH, adding just a little bit of lime is supposed to make the water taste better.

> then I had hardwater (to be expected),

How hard is it?  Some hardness is a good thing, absolutely pure water is actually kind of unpleasant to wash with IMO.  Again,
unless you are unhappy with the effects, it might make more sense to leave it alone. 

> The Iron I'm not worried about. (you can't see, or smell it.)

So not much iron, and it's good for you.

> The hard water, I wanted to treat with an electronic system. 
> Does anyone 
> know if they work, or are they snake oil?

Define "work".  They cannot remove hardness from the water.  Proponents claim they lessen the effects of the hard water, but there
is no accepted method for measuring that.  And the dissolved minerals will still come out if you boil the water, clog up your
humidifier (or swamp cooler), etc.

> I plan to do the work myself, am I crazy?

Should be no reason you can't do the work.  The only problem would be proving that the electronic gizmo actually does anything when
you're finished.  But if you're happy, I guess that's what is important.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 08:36:48 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 07:23:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: eric@megageek.com
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
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I'd get a second opinion on the test. Here in WI we can get test kits 
that get sent to a state lab. I've not (had a well and thus not) done 
this for many years but the cost was minor, under $30 I believe.

Acidic water? Not an expert here but never heard of that before. You can 
test this one yourself. Just get some litmus paper.

If you have high iron, do you not also then have the sulfur that 
accompanies high iron content? And thus a smell? That is how it is here.

Can't help with treatment options. I'd get a second, opinion before you 
start spending any money on equipment.

tim


On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 5:18 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> Well, I finally had my water tested since the new well, and of course 
> it looks like I need some treatments. (Questions in BOLD)
>
> First, I had a 'free water testing' done by a local plumbing chain. 
> They are the ones that gave me the test results.
>
> Should I pay for a water test from a local lab to make sure they are 
> just tell everyone their water is bad to sell systems?
>
> Next, I had acidic water, 5.5 I believe (I had to wait to get the 
> actual results), then I had hardwater (to be expected), and finally I 
> had iron in the water.
>
> The Iron I'm not worried about. (you can't see, or smell it.)
>
> The hard water, I wanted to treat with an electronic system. Does 
> anyone know if they work, or are they snake oil?
>
> Finally, I have to install a system to neutralize the water.  Does 
> anyone have any ideas on what I should do?
>
> I plan to do the work myself, am I crazy?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
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	<75.EB.00728.151E4D25@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 09:50:50 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't speak to the acidity, but putting in a water softener is a
reasonably easy do it yourself project.  As far as I can tell the electonic
units are snake oil, they don't remove the hardness but claim to make it
not "feel" hard.  It still leaves the minerals in the water which is what
does damage to the plumbing and leaves deposits on fixtures.

After 10 years of struggling to keep a Sears traditional softener unit
working I recently replaced mine with a "professional" quality unit that I
bought via Amazon for about $600.


 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GEFKN8?ref_=pe_527950_33920290

It has a Fleck brand controller which seems to be respected among
professional plumbers and I'm told they make the Culligan units.  It was
sold from "ABC Water Equipment" and is a 48,000 grain unit.  The capacity
in grains is determined by the number of people in your house and the
hardness of the water.  We have a four bedroom house so I sized it for
that, but most of the time its just my wife and I and with just us it only
regenerates about once every two weeks, every 3-5 days is more
typical.  With a full house of 5-6 people it might be more right-sized.

The water softeners I looked at were often combined with iron
removal options but I didn't pay much attention.  We have city water and
that's not an issue.  There's a lot hype and snake-oil in water softeners
sales, but my conclusion, and also what Consumer Reports recommended, is a
standard unit with demand based regneration.  "You can pay more but you
can't get better".

Ben.....

On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 2:03 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Next, I had acidic water, 5.5 I believe
>
> 5.5 is not bad at all, that is less acidic than rainwater!  Unless it is
> causing a specific problem, I'd leave it alone.
>
> OTOH, adding just a little bit of lime is supposed to make the water taste
> better.
>
> > then I had hardwater (to be expected),
>
> How hard is it?  Some hardness is a good thing, absolutely pure water is
> actually kind of unpleasant to wash with IMO.  Again,
> unless you are unhappy with the effects, it might make more sense to leave
> it alone.
>
> > The Iron I'm not worried about. (you can't see, or smell it.)
>
> So not much iron, and it's good for you.
>
> > The hard water, I wanted to treat with an electronic system.
> > Does anyone
> > know if they work, or are they snake oil?
>
> Define "work".  They cannot remove hardness from the water.  Proponents
> claim they lessen the effects of the hard water, but there
> is no accepted method for measuring that.  And the dissolved minerals will
> still come out if you boil the water, clog up your
> humidifier (or swamp cooler), etc.
>
> > I plan to do the work myself, am I crazy?
>
> Should be no reason you can't do the work.  The only problem would be
> proving that the electronic gizmo actually does anything when
> you're finished.  But if you're happy, I guess that's what is important.
>
> Randall
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
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On 1/13/2014 6:18 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Well, I finally had my water tested since the new well, and of course it
> looks like I need some treatments. (Questions in BOLD)
>
> First, I had a 'free water testing' done by a local plumbing chain.  They
> are the ones that gave me the test results.
>
> Should I pay for a water test from a local lab to make sure they are just
> tell everyone their water is bad to sell systems?

Never trust the test from someone who wants to sell you expensive 
equipment.  Here, a new well requires a lab test that contains all the 
information that the "free" test has and more accurate.  The test 
usually less than $50 and worth it.

> Next, I had acidic water, 5.5 I believe (I had to wait to get the actual
> results), then I had hardwater (to be expected), and finally I had iron in
> the water.

That's acidic enough to eat away at your copper pipes, water heater, 
facuets, etc. over time.  I had to replumb my mother's house with pex.  
Pin holes started appearing after 20 years from less acidid water. Also 
shortens the life of clothes.  Only solution is an acid filter that runs 
the water through a bed of calcium carbonate that has to be replenished.

> The Iron I'm not worried about. (you can't see, or smell it.)

My water smells and taste of iron pretty bad.  It's clear out of the tap 
but looks like weak tea if left out overnight.  You could fill a large 
clear glass container and leave it out overnight uncovered. The compare 
against a fresh container in the morning.

> The hard water, I wanted to treat with an electronic system. Does anyone
> know if they work, or are they snake oil?
Snake oil.
>
> Finally, I have to install a system to neutralize the water.  Does anyone
> have any ideas on what I should do?
>
> I plan to do the work myself, am I crazy?
NO, not crazy.  It's actually better to do it yourself.  If you pay 
someone to do it they set you up with a proprietary system that you 
can't buy parts.  I made this mistake and got tired of paying $100 to 
have someone come with a $100 part that really should cost only $10.  I 
eventually replaced it with an system I bought online.  I can buy parts 
though I haven't had in ten years.  I also configured it for my need 
rather than take what was offered.  It's been reliable and operates 
better.  And it was easy to install.

>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
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On 1/13/2014 6:18 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> I plan to do the work myself, am I crazy?
Also, a fraction of the cost.  Not just the labor but the actual system.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 14 15:34:22 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 10:31:06 -0500
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water treatment options
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On 1/14/2014 2:03 AM, Randall wrote:
>> then I had hardwater (to be expected),
> How hard is it?  Some hardness is a good thing, absolutely pure water is actually kind of unpleasant to wash with IMO.  Again,
> unless you are unhappy with the effects, it might make more sense to leave it alone.
Hard water requires you to use more soap/detergent.  It especially true 
for shampoo.  The flip side is people who add a softener use too much 
soap.  When i run out of salt it's impossible to clean you hair, but I 
have a lot of iron.
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