Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?

From: "Eric J Russell" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 22:09:34 -0500 a=enNQ1KVKsPkA:10 a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:17 a=C3T0tyzcAAAA:8 a=8GN4XRofAAAA:8 a=tgZQmrZVVE-KmCiERuYA:9 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=FibliMNvKBIA:10 a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:117 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0

I'm not sure exactly what you are seeking. Do you need to be able to 
connect/disconnect this or is a permanent connection OK? If permanent then 
solder/heat shrink is a good choice.

Anyway, I like to use Posi-Lock connectors whenever space is not at a 
premium (they are a little bigger than the typical crimp connectors).
They also have a Posi-Tap connector to tap a wire into an existing wire. Way 
better than the hated 'suitcase' connectors.

Posi-Locks connections can be easily made then opened for situations where 
occasional removal is needed. They also have water-proof covers. I used 
these to re-wire a car trailer and had no electrical issues for years 
thereafter (I sold the trailer).

http://www.posi-lock.com/

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <[email-masked]>

> I can't find, with my limited wiring vocabulary, a female disconnect that 
> has
> 2 crimps. Do they exist, or should I just go up one size so that I can 
> crimp
> (and solder) 2 wires in one crimp, or?
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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:44:27 -0800

Jim - You may be looking for a "piggy back spade connector".  Try that 
in your favorite search engine.  See 
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/85412/N0840.oap for some 
examples that turn a single spade connector into two.

Brian

On 12/26/2013 6:53 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I'm building a wiring harness for dual horns on a motorcycle. Instead of 2
> leads coming off the relay, I'd like to have one lead to one horn, then tap
> off that for the second horn.
>
> I can't find, with my limited wiring vocabulary, a female disconnect that has
> 2 crimps. Do they exist, or should I just go up one size so that I can crimp
> thanks,
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From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 22:51:18 -0600

On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 9:49 PM, Todd Walke <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I can think of three options.
>
> One is the "piggyback" crimp connector.  It's a female spade connector
> with a male tab added.
> Example from RadShack:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12529249
>
> They also carry a set of adapters that will do the job:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103503
>
> Either solution does take up a bit of room, so you'll want to verify that
> the additional wires or adapter don't hit other tabs on the relay.
>

Another solution, when space is tight, is to use a single wire at the
relay, but split it a little ways away.

-- 
David Scheidt
[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:34:30 -0500

On Dec 27, 2013, at 10:49 PM, Todd Walke wrote:

> Another solution is to put two wires in one terminal.

This is specifically what I was trying to ask - if there was a special
connector that would accept and crimp two wires independently. Sounds like no
and that the above is the way to go.

The piggy-back piece would functionally work but I'd like to keep non-soldered
connections to a minimum since these will be exposed to front wheel spray.

Thanks all.

[email-masked]

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From: James Stone <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:38:50 -0500

Why not just solder the connectors on and protect them with heat shrink
tubing?  That is what I did when I rewired my Alpine last summer.  One small
diameter piece of tubing over the ferrule end (I think that is what it is
called; the shank where it was crimped and soldered) and a larger piece to
cover the connector.  You can even use heat shrink tubing designed for
exterior use.  There is a standard size that is just barely larger than the
connector end and when it shrinks it will also shrink over the soldered part
(shrink the tubing over that end first), giving it added protection.  The
resulting connection looks pretty good; certainly a lot better than the
standard plastic crimped ones, IMHO.

On Dec 28, 2013, at 9:34 AM, Jim Franklin <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:48:31 -0500

On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:38 AM, James Stone wrote:

> tubing?

Do you mean the actual connection so it can't be unplugged? I can't, it needs
to stay removable.
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From: Jim <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 11:49:00 -0500

No, I meant solder the connector on to the wires rather than just crimp it on.
That would give you a more secure connection if you just put two wires into a
single connector.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:48 AM, "Jim Franklin" <[email-masked]>

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From: Ronnie Day <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 11:44:26 -0600

I've never been a fan of the Scotch-lock connectors that let you tap into
an existing wire by crimping them on. They actually cut through the
insulation and often some of the wire strands. If there's flex or
vibration, like on a bike, they will often cut completely through the
original wire. That said, the Posi-Lock looks like a better solution
because it appears to isolate the joint with the cover. I like soldering,
but not on a bike, again because of higher vibration.

You can get connectors with different sized terminals that work with
different gauge wire. For example a quarter inch female spade connector
that the wire end is sized for small (red insulator-?), medium (blue-?) or
large (yellow) wire. You get the connector with the correct connector
flavor to plug on to the relay, but with the wire end big enough to
accommodate two wires. Use good quality crimpers. Cheap crimpers are
usually as big a culprit as the crimp connects.

You mentioned weather proofing concerns, too. Use heat shrink, probably
multiple layers. I picked some so called "weather proof" connectors, at a
local O'Reilly's, I recall. They had lengths (a couple of inches) of heat
shrink already attached as well as having some sealer inside the tubing.
After I crimped them on to the wire and used a heat gun, the none hardening
sealer created about as water proof a connection as is possible, and since
the connectors weren't soldered they weren't as prone to breaking due to
vibration. A little more expensive, but worth it, IMO.

FWIW,
Ron

On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 10:49 AM, Jim <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 13:03:00 -0500

On Dec 28, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Jim wrote:

> No, I meant solder the connector on to the wires rather than just crimp it
on. That would give you a more secure connection if you just put two wires
into a single connector.

Oh yea, I am doing that. Crimp, solder, heat shrink.
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From: w <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 13:06:55 -0500

On 12/28/2013 10:38 AM, James Stone wrote:
> tubing?  That is what I did when I rewired my Alpine last summer.

That's about what I'd do. Important thing - DO NOT force the electrical 
connection to do the work of a mechanical connection. Use both.

Twist the wires, put in connector, mash with a good crimp tool (not the 
$3 stamped steel thingies), flow solder (gas free joint), heat shrink 
tube, and something upstream on the wires to physically hold them so the 
vibration to the joint is reduced.

-wayne

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