Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?

From: "ElanS4" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:08:16 -0500

> crimp it on the wire, then solder the end of the wire where it protrudes
from the 
> crimp.  The crimp gives a sound mechanical connection that will resist
vibration better 
> than a solder joint; while the solder ensures a sound electrical
connection 

It seems that everyone here believes that a soldered joint is better than a
crimped one.

That is not correct.  A crimp connection - if done correctly with a GOOD
crimp tool  (not the cheap $3 ones) will make a strong mechanical AND
electrical connection.  Soldering will make a good electrical connection -
however, it also make the wire stiff and subject to cracking from
vibrations.  Even if you only solder the tip of the wire, solder is made to
flow along the wire to penetrate and make the good electrical connection.
This also makes the stiffness extend beyond the crimp and highly increases
the possibility of the wire cracking.

There is a reason that car and motorcycle manufacturers make all the
electrical connections to wires with crimps.  There is a reason that Mil
Specs require wiring harnesses to be crimped and only soldered in specific
cases - this comes from someone that had to be Mil Spec certified for
soldering and crimping for a job I had in college years ago.

If you need to connect two wires together, you can make a solder connection
in a wiring harness, but do it far from the ends of the wire and tape it up
to support the wire and lessen vibrations.  But better still, use a crimp
connecter with one wire in one end, and two wires in the other end (and of
course covered with heat shrink tubing).

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: w <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 18:59:01 -0500

> crimp tool  (not the cheap $3 ones) will make a strong mechanical AND

Good point, and mostly agreed. I understand the brittleness issue with 
soldering and should have mentioned that. And obviously OEM wiring 
harnesses are crimped. But that's assuming you have a dedicated 
expensive crimp robot, fasteners for the specific application, etc. I 
have an AMP crimper and three dies at the office that cost over $300 for 
RJ termminations and it's worth every bit in reliable network connections.

If you're doing a DIY repair or replacement, I still think some more 
improvisation and "over doing it" is not a bad thing. A car is a pretty 
harsh and demanding environment, with temperature extremes, weather, 
vibration, and all that.

-w

[email-masked]