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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 15:33:25 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] New Generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My 30 year old, 5000 watt Yamaha Generator has about had it and I want 
to buy a new Generator for emergency use at home.  I have a 30 amp 
transfer switch installed so I want to stay in the 5000 to 8000 watt 
range.  Anyone have a recommendation for a good unit. I'm hoping for no 
storms until I get this done.  Thanks,  John Mitchell Shelton, CT
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 19:14:32 2013
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 20:49:29 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/01/2013 20:49:30, Serialize complete at
	12/01/2013 20:49:30
Subject: [Shop-talk] chain hoist question (electrically)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow shop-talkers,

I acquired a 1/2 chain hoist lift and I have some questions.

First off, I have photos I'm talking about (the important parts) are 
here...

http://tinyurl.com/m3fj7c6 

In the first photo, you see this is labeled 3 phase, 208 or 440.
In the photo below that, you see that there is a wiring block that changes 
for 220V or 440v (left side of photo)
The top right photo is a wiring diagram.
The bottom right photo is the button controller (to make the lift go up 
and down.)

Here are my questions...

Is there any way to wire this to work on Single Phase, maybe with reduced 
power?
What is this thing worth?
Does anyone want/need this?

Finally, what could be the tar like substance that is all over that 
controller?  Any ideas where this could have been used?  The buttons work, 
but it just looks scary!  8>)

Thanks for the help in advance.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 19:32:09 2013
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 21:30:00 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>, Shop-Talk
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New Generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

These days, unless you want high-end, everybody seems to be selling
something made by some other company, and just slapping their label on it.
And this could be happening separately for the gas engine and the actual
generator.

I would:

1: Test your ability to find and order spare parts on-line.  If you can't,
that's a bad sign.
2:  Reject any generator that does not have a fuel shutoff valve, or which
has a fuel pump instead of pure gravity feed.
3: Avoid something that you would not trust running computers or other
electronic devices.

There generators that work without brushes.  That sounds good in theory,
but I haven't heard how much better it is in practice.

If you have the means, an inverter generator is very nice.  They can
throttle down when the load is low, and you use less noise, and use less
gas.  I have a Honda EU2000, and it is wonderful if 2000 watts is
sufficient.
A EU6500 would be nice for you, but it costs $$$$$.

BTW, consider how you will be able to keep the thing fed if you have to run
it for a several days.  If you have a 5000 watt generator that uses a
gallon every two hours, that's 12 gallons a day,  In three days, you will
have to bring home 36 gallons of gas, which probably cost you over $100.
(My EU2000 will run 10 hours on a gallon of gas.)

Doug




On Sun, Dec 1, 2013 at 3:33 PM, john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net> wrote:

> My 30 year old, 5000 watt Yamaha Generator has about had it and I want to
> buy a new Generator for emergency use at home.  I have a 30 amp transfer
> switch installed so I want to stay in the 5000 to 8000 watt range.  Anyone
> have a recommendation for a good unit. I'm hoping for no storms until I get
> this done.  Thanks,  John Mitchell Shelton, CT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@
> dougbraun.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 22:09:06 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, Shop-Talk
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <529B9D15.7050409@snet.net>
	<CAOtbU9UNAv9Uhg7KvXNwUP5YmmQ6jhQ9gUpOwPYJZ602GYmvXA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New Generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the insights.  My 5000 watt generator would run 8 hours on 
2.5 gallons and I always keep 15 gallons stored with stabil.  I hate to 
spend $3000 on something that rarely gets used.  My other big concern is 
noise.  I've read that diesel generators are much quieter.  John
On 12/1/2013 9:30 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> These days, unless you want high-end, everybody seems to be selling 
> something made by some other company, and just slapping their label on 
> it.  And this could be happening separately for the gas engine and the 
> actual generator.
>
> I would:
>
> 1: Test your ability to find and order spare parts on-line.  If you 
> can't, that's a bad sign.
> 2:  Reject any generator that does not have a fuel shutoff valve, or 
> which has a fuel pump instead of pure gravity feed.
> 3: Avoid something that you would not trust running computers or other 
> electronic devices.
>
> There generators that work without brushes.  That sounds good in 
> theory, but I haven't heard how much better it is in practice.
>
> If you have the means, an inverter generator is very nice.  They can 
> throttle down when the load is low, and you use less noise, and use 
> less gas.  I have a Honda EU2000, and it is wonderful if 2000 watts is 
> sufficient.
> A EU6500 would be nice for you, but it costs $$$$$.
>
> BTW, consider how you will be able to keep the thing fed if you have 
> to run it for a several days.  If you have a 5000 watt generator that 
> uses a gallon every two hours, that's 12 gallons a day,  In three 
> days, you will have to bring home 36 gallons of gas, which probably 
> cost you over $100.  (My EU2000 will run 10 hours on a gallon of gas.)
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 1, 2013 at 3:33 PM, john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net 
>
>     My 30 year old, 5000 watt Yamaha Generator has about had it and I
>     want to buy a new Generator for emergency use at home.  I have a
>     30 amp transfer switch installed so I want to stay in the 5000 to
>     8000 watt range.  Anyone have a recommendation for a good unit.
>     I'm hoping for no storms until I get this done.  Thanks,  John
>     Mitchell Shelton, CT
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF26A6CAE2.5170E01C-ON85257C35.000B69BA-85257C35.000C0EB9@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 23:15:53 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7vBAJu7Qibq6MPQxWuBKUa+2kbHwAFwPSw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chain hoist question (electrically)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

The best and easiest way to connect this up to single phase power is to use
a single to 3-phase converter. 

If you are in need of a hoist, and the price was good enough to spend
another $50 on a phase converter, then this is fine. If it is too expensive,
sell this one and buy a single phase unit

I looked on ebay and found
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-1-3-3-4-HP-Static-Phase-Converter-Mill-Drill-Saw-
USA-MADE-Single-to-three-/261070427968?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc902
9740, which is a solid state phase converter for $46. Have no connection
with this company.

Try various solvents in moderation to see what attacks the tar.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
<snip>
Is there any way to wire this to work on Single Phase, maybe with reduced
power?
What is this thing worth?
Does anyone want/need this?

Finally, what could be the tar like substance that is all over that
controller?  Any ideas where this could have been used?  The buttons work,
but it just looks scary!  8>)
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 10:09:22 +0000
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
References: <529B9D15.7050409@snet.net>
	<CAOtbU9UNAv9Uhg7KvXNwUP5YmmQ6jhQ9gUpOwPYJZ602GYmvXA@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New Generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

john Mitchell wrote:
> Thanks for the insights.  My 5000 watt generator would run 8 hours on
> 2.5 gallons and I always keep 15 gallons stored with stabil.  I hate to
> spend $3000 on something that rarely gets used.  My other big concern is
> noise.  I've read that diesel generators are much quieter.  John
> On 12/1/2013 9:30 PM, Doug Braun wrote:

There is the lpg option. I've just bought an lpg kit for my EU20i that 
is supposed to use 0.33 kg propane per hour. That generator is big 
enough to run a central heating pump, a couple of freezers and give a 
bit of light but would not be big enough for your needs.

Regarding diesel generators and noise. I'd be surprised if diesel was 
quieter but ultimately it comes down to the sound deadening 
encapsulation. I have a bit of experience with a floodlighting generator 
powered by a Cummins 4BT3.9. While that isn't noisy I certainly wouldn't 
want it running all night outside the house.

This is an interesting website by someone who earns a living repairing 
Honda generators:

http://www.petepower.co.uk/choosing-generators.html

Starts with the small camping models then goes on to the larger items 
that may be of interest to you.

Hope you get sorted before winter sets in. Don't know how long you plan 
staying in the house but 30 years from a Yamaha generator is a pretty 
good recommendation.

Nick Brearley
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 16:25:39 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac710Wewf1jJvyEkRuKEXfi4oLgHRA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired conventional water
heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major brands come from
two main conglomerates: Rheem/Ruud/Richmond/etc. and
A.O.Smith/Lochinvar/State/etc.  I have a top-of-the-line Lochinvar that I
installed in 2008 to replace a garden-variety 1986 Rheem water heater which
had lasted 22 years.  The 5-year-old Lochinvar is bad now, though it hasn't
blown (yet).  Since the large local distributor I bought from went out of
business, my warrantee may be void.  The current distributor will only deal
with licensed contractors, and it appears the factory approves of that.  If
they eventually honor the 6-year warrantee I'll be good for a few more
years, but I'd really prefer to put in a better unit now.  If I have to pay
a, "approved" plumber to come inspect this and tell the factory it was
indeed installed properly, and then handle the warrantee and install the new
one, it'll cost more than a new heater.

 

I've also learned that many water heaters aren't glass-lined any more, and
indeed this one doesn't say anything on the labels about glass lining.
Never thought to ask when I bought it from a trusted friend.  We're in the
Chicago area with Lake Michigan water, which is supposed to be pretty good
for plumbing, and we've never had water-induced corrosion issues or heard of
them.  I hope there's an anode in the factory-installed outlet fitting, but
I don't know.  There's no other place one could be screwed in.  The
factory-installed inlet has no anode - just a plastic dip tube, which I had
to replace yesterday as it was corroded.  All things I'll look for and
upgrade as possible in the next water heater.

 

I know there are many tankless water heater adherents on the list, but when
I last checked tankless heaters have short warrantees, cost 3-4 times what a
conventional water heater does, require direct venting, and most require
"professional" installation.  I only have my clay-lined brick chimney and no
reasonable way to relocate the water heater to a better location.  The
economics just don't seem to work at all anyway.  Probably a better option
for those who have electric water heaters.

 

Thanks!
Karl
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 16:58:48 2013
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References: <000c01cef5f6$c217e970$4647bc50$@Ameritech.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 18:40:40 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I live in Middleville, MI, which is where Bradford White water heaters are
manufactured.  I can't say anything scientific about their relative
quality, but they have a large manufacturing plant that was recently
expanded and it's another brand to consider.

-Paul

On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 5:25 PM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:

> Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired conventional water
> heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major brands come from
> two main conglomerates: Rheem/Ruud/Richmond/etc. and
> A.O.Smith/Lochinvar/State/etc.  I have a top-of-the-line Lochinvar that I
> installed in 2008 to replace a garden-variety 1986 Rheem water heater which
> had lasted 22 years.  The 5-year-old Lochinvar is bad now, though it hasn't
> blown (yet).  Since the large local distributor I bought from went out of
> business, my warrantee may be void.  The current distributor will only deal
> with licensed contractors, and it appears the factory approves of that.  If
> they eventually honor the 6-year warrantee I'll be good for a few more
> years, but I'd really prefer to put in a better unit now.  If I have to pay
> a, "approved" plumber to come inspect this and tell the factory it was
> indeed installed properly, and then handle the warrantee and install the
> new
> one, it'll cost more than a new heater.
>
>
>
> I've also learned that many water heaters aren't glass-lined any more, and
> indeed this one doesn't say anything on the labels about glass lining.
> Never thought to ask when I bought it from a trusted friend.  We're in the
> Chicago area with Lake Michigan water, which is supposed to be pretty good
> for plumbing, and we've never had water-induced corrosion issues or heard
> of
> them.  I hope there's an anode in the factory-installed outlet fitting, but
> I don't know.  There's no other place one could be screwed in.  The
> factory-installed inlet has no anode - just a plastic dip tube, which I had
> to replace yesterday as it was corroded.  All things I'll look for and
> upgrade as possible in the next water heater.
>
>
>
> I know there are many tankless water heater adherents on the list, but when
> I last checked tankless heaters have short warrantees, cost 3-4 times what
> a
> conventional water heater does, require direct venting, and most require
> "professional" installation.  I only have my clay-lined brick chimney and
> no
> reasonable way to relocate the water heater to a better location.  The
> economics just don't seem to work at all anyway.  Probably a better option
> for those who have electric water heaters.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
> Karl
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 11:10:47 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Karl Vacek'" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:17:59 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac710Wewf1jJvyEkRuKEXfi4oLgHRAAwhE8A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired 
> conventional water
> heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major 
> brands come from
> two main conglomerates: 

I don't know who actually made it, but the GE brand heater I got from Home Depot about 12 years ago seems to be holding up well.  I
get some rusty sediment when I open the drain valve every few years, but not very much and it likely comes from the cast iron pipes
leading to the house & heater.

There is a hex head for the anode, but I've never tried to change it.  Probably should do that some time.  There's a sticker on the
side that says to call GE for support, but I've never called them.

When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with the insulators at the heater end.  They'll help block any
galvanic currents that can eat up the heater.  Both this house and my previous house didn't have them when I moved in.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 20:47:47 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:18:59 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just got a mobile (as in normally installed in a car or truck) uhf/vhf 
ham radio to use as my base station.  Since it's a mobile I had to get 
a  12 volt power supply.  I got a (relatively) inexpensive 25 amp 
switching power supply from the same vendor.  The fan is really noisy 
and runs all the time.  No I haven't called the vendor yet, and my wife 
threw away some of the packaging material anyway.  So, any ideas on how 
to quiet it down?  I have already moved it to the floor under the radio 
bench, but I was thinking of trying to find some kind of thermal switch 
I could add to the fan circuit, or maybe just opening up the enclosure 
and disabling the fan, or putting a manual switch on it.  Also thought 
of building a larger enclosure around it which would still provide air 
movement, but would block most of the noise.

Any ideas?

---
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 21:20:04 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:53:21 -0800
References: <52A92B23.4020307@frontier.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you can easily open the case, you can try changing the fan.  Usually a
higher quality fan (which may only cost $5-10) will be much quieter.  Ive
upgraded several power supplies this way.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 21:42:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:11:37 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
References: <52A92B23.4020307@frontier.com>
	<DD1CD42B-A676-4C71-9B57-2D2633006049@mac.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Where do I start looking for an alternate fan?  Out of an old PC power 
supply?  Ebay?


On 12/11/2013 7:53 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> If you can easily open the case, you can try changing the fan.  Usually a higher quality fan (which may only cost $5-10) will be much quieter.  Ive upgraded several power supplies this way.
>
>


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 21:44:39 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
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To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Dec 11, 2013, at 8:11 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> Where do I start looking for an alternate fan?  Out of an old PC power
supply?  Ebay?

Ive used these guys:

http://www.coolerguys.com/fans.html

But even Radio Shack carries fans (which may be quieter).
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 00:14:11 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <52A92B23.4020307@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Messing around inside a brand new power supply wouldn't be my first 
choice.  Try to get it further away from you.  I don't know what your 
room is like, but is there a closet or something nearby?  My 
father-in-law likes to use a 12 Volt car battery and a 
charger/maintainer like a Battery Minder.  The battery provides 
plenty of current and the whole thing is completely silent.  You also 
get to use your radio in a power failure.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 10:18 PM 12/11/2013, Dave C wrote:
>I just got a mobile (as in normally installed in a car or truck) 
>uhf/vhf ham radio to use as my base station.  Since it's a mobile I 
>had to get a  12 volt power supply.  I got a (relatively) 
>inexpensive 25 amp switching power supply from the same vendor.  The 
>fan is really noisy and runs all the time.
_______________________________________________

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	UTC
From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52A92B23.4020307@frontier.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:33:29 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac727NBvoEhtbLgbShys3vCgcMVRgAADfHpQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

Check out the Remote Control Web sites for modifying a computer power supply
to provide 12 volts.  I've done it numerous times and have attached a copy
of several articles I found on line.  The cost is minimal and they are very
clean power supplies. They are available in many different wattages and are
easy to convert.  

Just start with a quiet power supply.  

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave C
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 7:19 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?

I just got a mobile (as in normally installed in a car or truck) uhf/vhf 
ham radio to use as my base station.  Since it's a mobile I had to get 
a  12 volt power supply.  I got a (relatively) inexpensive 25 amp 
switching power supply from the same vendor.  The fan is really noisy 
and runs all the time.  No I haven't called the vendor yet, and my wife 
threw away some of the packaging material anyway.  So, any ideas on how 
to quiet it down?  I have already moved it to the floor under the radio 
bench, but I was thinking of trying to find some kind of thermal switch 
I could add to the fan circuit, or maybe just opening up the enclosure 
and disabling the fan, or putting a manual switch on it.  Also thought 
of building a larger enclosure around it which would still provide air 
movement, but would block most of the noise.

Any ideas?

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Setting Up a PC power supply as a charger - better.doc]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Setting Up a PC power supply as a charger.doc]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Desktop Power Supply from a PC.doc]
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 23:38:52 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 22:25:55 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac729Fil/ILeLsmkSvSOhc/N/P2f4AAC6qHA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Where do I start looking for an alternate fan?  Out of an old 
> PC power 
> supply?  Ebay?

Any electronics stores in your area?  Last time I bought computer fans, it was at Frys; but only because Torrance Electronics was
closed at the time.  Even Best Buy and Radio Shack have some shot at having what you need.

If not, try
http://www.mouser.com

http://marvac.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=fans

http://www.digikey.com

Of course you'll first have to find out what you need, in terms of both physical size and cfm.  Most likely a computer fan will be
12v DC, but it wouldn't hurt to check that as well.

Usually (though certainly not always), ball bearing fans make more noise for the same air movement.  But they also last longer, and
give you warning when they are about to fail (by getting even louder).  Sleeve fans are quieter to begin with, but fail and stop
without making any extra noise.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:30:22 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 12:14 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> My father-in-law likes to use a 12 Volt car battery and a charger/maintainer
> like a Battery Minder.

I hope he does this somewhere other than in the house...
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 10:18:55 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hydrogen gas.   A rarity, to be sure, at the kind of normal charging
rates that a maintainer puts out, but still a danger to be aware of.
Even riskier with a higher-amperage charger.  If it fails to shut off,
it can generate explosive quantities of gas.  Not the sort of thing
you want in your living space.

If you go in your garage and smell rotten eggs, don't turn on the
lights or use the door operator  :-)

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 10:09 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> What are you concerned about?  I have cars sitting in my attached garage
> with those maintainers hooked up all winter.
>
> -Steve
>
> At 07:30 AM 12/12/2013, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 12:14 AM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
>> wrote:
>> > My father-in-law likes to use a 12 Volt car battery and a
>> > charger/maintainer
>> > like a Battery Minder.
>>
>> I hope he does this somewhere other than in the house...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 09:38:56 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 10:09:04 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
	mail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
References: <52A92B23.4020307@frontier.com>
	<0MXO00AJNHCBPU50@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff,

What are you concerned about?  I have cars sitting in my attached 
garage with those maintainers hooked up all winter.

-Steve

At 07:30 AM 12/12/2013, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 12:14 AM, Steven Trovato 
><strovato@optonline.net> wrote:
> > My father-in-law likes to use a 12 Volt car battery and a 
> charger/maintainer
> > like a Battery Minder.
>
>I hope he does this somewhere other than in the house...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 11:41:58 2013
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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power supply noise?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/11/2013 11:11 PM, Dave C wrote:
> Where do I start looking for an alternate fan?  Out of an old PC power
> supply?  Ebay?

http://www.newegg.com/Case-Fans/SubCategory/ID-573

Use the "Power Search" link near the top of the menu to narrow down the 
selection of 813 fans!

w
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 13:31:33 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
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I've got a Whirlpool that I bought about five years ago from Lowe's.  I've
since found they don't have a very good reputation among professional
installers.  I just replaced my gas control thermostat because I had cold
water and turning the knob all the way to hot didn't turn on the gas.  It
wasn't made by Whirlpool, but by one of the big name gas control companies
who's name I can't remember now.  Another person in our office had the same
thing done to hers recently.  She paid a plumber to do it under the
warranty -- part was free, labor was >$100.  I could have had my part paid
for under warranty but given Lowe's had them in stock for $60 I didn't
bother with that time/hassle.

The interesting and troublesome part of the repalement was that the bottom
of the tank was full of light, fluffy bluish-white material that kept the
water from draining.  It wasn't the hard granules that I've typcially
drained out from water heaters, but looked and felt like large soap flakes.
I hadn't drained the tank the last 3 years or so becuase the valve dripped
after I did it.  We had a water softener fail about a year ago so maybe
that's part of what caused this.  Anyone have any idea what this is?

After replacing the valve and cleaning the foreign material its back to
normal.  It has a 9 year warranty but if I have any more trouble I'm just
replacing it.  We have city water and our last heater lasted about 13 years
before the tank started leaking.  I figure 10 yrs is typical for a water
heater.

Ben.....



On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 12:17 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired
> > conventional water
> > heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major
> > brands come from
> > two main conglomerates:
>
> I don't know who actually made it, but the GE brand heater I got from Home
> Depot about 12 years ago seems to be holding up well.  I
> get some rusty sediment when I open the drain valve every few years, but
> not very much and it likely comes from the cast iron pipes
> leading to the house & heater.
>
> There is a hex head for the anode, but I've never tried to change it.
>  Probably should do that some time.  There's a sticker on the
> side that says to call GE for support, but I've never called them.
>
> When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with the
> insulators at the heater end.  They'll help block any
> galvanic currents that can eat up the heater.  Both this house and my
> previous house didn't have them when I moved in.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, 'Karl Vacek' <KVacek@Ameritech.net>,
	"shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 18:24:43 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
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Speaking of GE....my son had a problem with a GE water heater installed in the
house he recently purchased.  He is not a techie person, but willing to try.
He called GE and they walked him through a full diagnostic procedure and he
determined that the thermostat was bad.  He was very impressed with GE's
support.

In the end, the water heater was 10 years old and he elected to replace it
with an identical GE unit from Home Depot.  He is a happy customer.

Gil Fuqua
Nashville

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 11:18 AM
To: 'Karl Vacek'; shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality

> Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired conventional
> water heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major brands
> come from two main conglomerates:

I don't know who actually made it, but the GE brand heater I got from Home
Depot about 12 years ago seems to be holding up well.  I get some rusty
sediment when I open the drain valve every few years, but not very much and it
likely comes from the cast iron pipes leading to the house & heater.

There is a hex head for the anode, but I've never tried to change it.
Probably should do that some time.  There's a sticker on the side that says to
call GE for support, but I've never called them.

When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with the
insulators at the heater end.  They'll help block any galvanic currents that
can eat up the heater.  Both this house and my previous house didn't have them
when I moved in.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gil.fuqua@cci-ir.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 15:45:43 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
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Randall wrote:
> 
> When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with the
insulators <...>

One other modest suggestion.  Get two ball valves and install one on the
intake and the other on the output.  It shure makes things easier in the
future if you have to replace the hot water heater, or do maintenance, etc.

Tim Mullen 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
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gas or electric?
thanks


On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 12:24 PM, Gil Fuqua wrote:

> Speaking of GE....my son had a problem with a GE water heater 
> installed in the
> house he recently purchased.  He is not a techie person, but willing 
> to try.
> He called GE and they walked him through a full diagnostic procedure 
> and he
> determined that the thermostat was bad.  He was very impressed with 
> GE's
> support.
>
> In the end, the water heater was 10 years old and he elected to 
> replace it
> with an identical GE unit from Home Depot.  He is a happy customer.
>
> Gil Fuqua
> Nashville
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 11:18 AM
> To: 'Karl Vacek'; shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
>
>> Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired conventional
>> water heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major 
>> brands
>> come from two main conglomerates:
>
> I don't know who actually made it, but the GE brand heater I got from 
> Home
> Depot about 12 years ago seems to be holding up well.  I get some 
> rusty
> sediment when I open the drain valve every few years, but not very 
> much and it
> likely comes from the cast iron pipes leading to the house & heater.
>
> There is a hex head for the anode, but I've never tried to change it.
> Probably should do that some time.  There's a sticker on the side that 
> says to
> call GE for support, but I've never called them.
>
> When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with 
> the
> insulators at the heater end.  They'll help block any galvanic 
> currents that
> can eat up the heater.  Both this house and my previous house didn't 
> have them
> when I moved in.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Thread-Index: AQHO94ULf1jJvyEkRuKEXfi4oLgHRJpRKhpQ
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 22:50:53 +0000
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GE electric water heater.

Gil

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 3:57 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality

gas or electric?
thanks


On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 12:24 PM, Gil Fuqua wrote:

> Speaking of GE....my son had a problem with a GE water heater
> installed in the house he recently purchased.  He is not a techie
> person, but willing to try.
> He called GE and they walked him through a full diagnostic procedure
> and he determined that the thermostat was bad.  He was very impressed
> with GE's support.
>
> In the end, the water heater was 10 years old and he elected to
> replace it with an identical GE unit from Home Depot.  He is a happy
> customer.
>
> Gil Fuqua
> Nashville
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 11:18 AM
> To: 'Karl Vacek'; shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
>
>> Are there any truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired conventional
>> water heaters made nowadays?  It appears that most of the major
>> brands come from two main conglomerates:
>
> I don't know who actually made it, but the GE brand heater I got from
> Home Depot about 12 years ago seems to be holding up well.  I get some
> rusty sediment when I open the drain valve every few years, but not
> very much and it likely comes from the cast iron pipes leading to the
> house & heater.
>
> There is a hex head for the anode, but I've never tried to change it.
> Probably should do that some time.  There's a sticker on the side that
> says to call GE for support, but I've never called them.
>
> When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with
> the insulators at the heater end.  They'll help block any galvanic
> currents that can eat up the heater.  Both this house and my previous
> house didn't have them when I moved in.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gil.fuqua@cci-ir.com
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
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Benjamin Zwissler wrote:
>
> The interesting and troublesome part of the repalement was that the bottom
of 
> the tank was full of light, fluffy bluish-white material that kept the
water from 
> draining.  It wasn't the hard granules that I've typcially drained out
from water 
> heaters, but looked and felt like large soap flakes.

I've had something like this for the last 20 years or so...

When it first happened, my buddy explained to me that it was from the
plastic fill pipe that the cold water comes internally in the tank.  It
degrades over time.  The "flakes" feel like thin strips of plastic film.  I
replaced the tank way back then (and once again since then), but that crap
is still in my hot water tanks.  Every now and then, I have to take apart my
shower diverter valve and clean the stuff out.  The shower head too.  The
rest of the house facets occasionally need it.  I don't know if that's
what's wrong with your system, but I have learned to never buy any heaters
with internal plastic "pipes".

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 19:03:25 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Karl,

More important than the price or the warranty on the heater is that
you need to change out the sacrificial anode rod every five years if you do
not soften your water, and every three years if you have a water softener.
The anode rod will be fully consumed after about five years depending upon
your water and your usage, and then at that point, the liner of the tank
begins to "sacrifice itself."

I think you can keep a water heater almost
indefinitely if you routinely change out the sacrificial anode every
three-five years, depending on your water.

Most of them screw in from the top
next to the water inlet pipe.  Some are actually inserted through the water
inlet pipe.

The cost is between $20-$75 depending upon the size of the tank
and whether you want to aluminium, zinc, or composites.  You can order them
off the web if you local plumbing supply store does not stock them (many do
not).

Aluminum works great but potentially can add aluminum to your water.
 Not a problem unless you are drinking large amounts of hot water. 

I have
been changing  them out for years and have yet needed to replace a water
heater.   I currently have a 75 gallon water heater that is 15 years old and
am just ready to replace the rod again.  It has limited clearance above the
tank so I need to use flexible anode rods so that I can feed them through (the
rods are about the height of the tank and the space above the tank is less
than the height of the tank).
  
best,

doug
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13
Aprilia Tuono V4R



________________________________
 From: Karl Vacek
<KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, December
10, 2013 2:25 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
 

Are there any
truly good, durable, natural-gas-fired conventional water
heaters made
nowadays?  It appears that most of the major brands come from
two main
conglomerates: Rheem/Ruud/Richmond/etc. and
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 21:05:48 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 22:34:58 -0500
From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<0JD81n01X0NyJgq01JDBjb> <00d801cef77b$204abc90$60e035b0$@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/12/2013 3:45 PM, ElanS4 wrote:
>> When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with the
> insulators <...>
>
> One other modest suggestion.  Get two ball valves and install one on the
> intake and the other on the output.  It shure makes things easier in the
> future if you have to replace the hot water heater, or do maintenance, etc.

I installed one of the Whirlpool electrics with the "energy smart" 
control from Lowes back in 2006 after getting in a pissing match with my 
propane company, and figuring out electric was cheaper to operate. 
They're made by "American Water Heater" in TN, and I've read some bad 
stories about them, but mine's run fine, and my utility bills have 
dropped. Recovery time on it is very quick.

Other installation tips: I did mine with CPVC spliced into the copper. 
Easy stuff to work with and reasonably priced. I did some stuff plumbers 
would never take the time or expense to do; besides the ball valves on 
BOTH lines, install pipe unions. I had to temporarily move mine to 
install a new, much larger well pressure tank a couple years later, and 
my friend & I drained, disconnected, and slid the heater 3 feet to the 
side for access in under 15 minutes. The unions also let air in rapidly 
for easy routine flushes (and I can crack them open by hand.)

If yours is sitting on concrete, like a basement, the stuff is alkaline 
and often has water vapor coming up through it. You've probably seen 
tanks with the bottom of the housing corroded out. I laid down some of 
the plastic used for tile shower stalls under it as a vapor barrier.

The el-cheapo plastic drain valves like to clog up, leak, and are slow 
to drain. Before you fill the thing, buy a brass pipe nipple, ball 
valve, and hose bib fitting and replace the plastic junk for easy flushes.

This place has lots of good advice and products, but is expensive:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/XCart/Ball-Valve-Drain-Assembly.html
If you're not short of dough and just want the right stuff quick & easy, 
cost no object, go for it. But you can get it cheaper at any local 
plumbing place.

-Good Luck!  Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 22:43:01 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/12/2013 10:03 PM, old dirtbeard wrote:
> More important than the price or the warranty on the heater is that
> you need to change out the sacrificial anode rod every five years if you do
> not soften your water, and every three years if you have a water softener.

Doug, any suggestions on how to unscrew stubborn rods? Need to swap out 
the ones at my Mom's and my own. 1 1/16" socket seems pretty standard 
for them. Mom's won't budge with an 18" breaker bar on it. No compressed 
air; I filled my little portable tank and tried the 1/2" impact on it, 
but couldn't get enough run time to do any good.

-Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 01:37:29 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 00:34:22 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac73uHIPE3gUf5DjQDickNTvtzSl2AAJCUUg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> If yours is sitting on concrete, like a basement, the stuff 
> is alkaline 
> and often has water vapor coming up through it. You've probably seen 
> tanks with the bottom of the housing corroded out. I laid 
> down some of 
> the plastic used for tile shower stalls under it as a vapor barrier.

They were a bit tough to find, but HD had galvanized catch pans designed to go under the heater and be plumbed to a drain.  I think
they are actually required by building code around here for installations inside the house.  Hopefully when the heater does spring a
leak, it will help keep the water away from the wood floors.

> The el-cheapo plastic drain valves like to clog up, leak, and 
> are slow 
> to drain. Before you fill the thing, buy a brass pipe nipple, ball 
> valve, and hose bib fitting and replace the plastic junk for 
> easy flushes.

Or look for a heater like the one I got, which came with a brass globe valve for the drain.  IMO the globe valve is easier to
control, which is important if you are draining to a mop bucket (as I usually do).  Less hassle (and mess) than dragging a hose
through the house.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 06:11:04 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: w <wc5813@gmail.com>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Wayne,

Once you have it out and replace it, I wrap the threads in pipe
tape so it comes out easy the next time, but that will not help on the first
removal.

I don't recall having that much trouble breaking it loose the first
time, though, I do have a large 3/4" breaker bar that provides a good deal of
leverage.  I am surprised that a impact wrench wouldn't break it loose.  Can
you get a couple extra lengths of air hose to reach it, or borrow a portable
compressor?  

I would have to believe that a 1/2" impact wrench on a portable
compressor would back it out easily, or get a long 3/4" drive breaker bar, or
use a piece of galv. or iron water pipe over the handle of your current
breaker bar to increase your torque. 

Again, though, I am a little surprised
that it is so tight/frozen...
 
best,

doug

________________________________
From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday,
December 12, 2013 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
 

On
12/12/2013 10:03 PM, old dirtbeard wrote:
> More important than the price or
the warranty on the heater is that
> you need to change out the sacrificial
anode rod every five years if you do
> not soften your water, and every three
years if you have a water softener.

Doug, any suggestions on how to unscrew
stubborn rods? Need to swap out the ones at my Mom's and my own. 1 1/16"
socket seems pretty standard for them. Mom's won't budge with an 18" breaker
bar on it. No compressed air; I filled my little portable tank and tried the
1/2" impact on it, but couldn't get enough run time to do any good.

-Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting out in the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge was pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went into a store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full scale.  Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed that way until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition on, back to full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.

All the other gauges seem to be acting normally.

Anybody else ever seen anything like this?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 07:59:41 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: "pethier@comcast.net" <pethier@comcast.net>,
	"shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Phil,

Just a guess, but perhaps the viscosity of the oil at 11 above was
thick enough to jam the sender unit wide open and now it is stuck there.
 Maybe with heat and cycles it will free up again.  Just a guess...
 
best,
doug
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03
GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, December 13,
2013 9:48 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting out in
the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge was
pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went into a
store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full scale. 
Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed that way
until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition on, back to
full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.

All the other gauges
seem to be acting normally.

Anybody else ever seen anything like this?

Phil
Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle
jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the
bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 10:49:01 2013
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <1792144760.534071.1385480177493.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><2074460272.27775.1387000130982.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1387036781.17234.YahooMailNeo@web181304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:55:57 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I tend to agree with DB... if it was actually the oil pump (spring broken) 
you would have blown an oil filter and never gotten out of the yard..... 
I'd suspect a bad sending unit (or stuck one)  and the very last option 
would be a gauge... but they are usually either go or no go when they 
break....  might try removing the sending unit and cleaning it and cycling 
it a few times

john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "old dirtbeard" <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: <pethier@comcast.net>; <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.


> Hi Phil,
>
> Just a guess, but perhaps the viscosity of the oil at 11 above was
> thick enough to jam the sender unit wide open and now it is stuck there.
> Maybe with heat and cycles it will free up again.  Just a guess...
>
> best,
> doug
> ________________
> '72 BSA B50SS
> '74 Moto Guzzi 850T
>
> '01 HD XHL 883
> '03
> GMC Cargo Van
> '07 Aprilia SXV 550
> '13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, December 13,
> 2013 9:48 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> 2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting out 
> in
> the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge was
> pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went 
> into a
> store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full scale.
> Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed that 
> way
> until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition on, 
> back to
> full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.
>
> All the other gauges
> seem to be acting normally.
>
> Anybody else ever seen anything like this?
>
> Phil
> Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle
> jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the
> bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 12:28:01 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 13:46:37 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: pethier@comcast.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm going to cast my vote for a short somewhere...
On Dec 14, 2013 12:57 AM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting out
in the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge
was pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went
into a store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full
scale.  Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed
that way until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition
on, back to full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.

All the other gauges seem to be acting normally.

Anybody else ever seen anything like this?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 13:22:07 2013
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From: John Henard <johnhenard@hotmail.com>
To: "pethier@comcast.net" <pethier@comcast.net>,
	"shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 14:50:52 -0500
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	<2074460272.27775.1387000130982.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[CB98BB20:01CEF905]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Phil,Sounds like my 2004 Yukon Denali. Engine off oil pressure zero, turn on
and it goes full scale and then back to zero when off. I read somewhere that
was an indication of oil pressure sender. Replaced mine and fixed it and now
acting normally.If your suburban is laid out like the Yukon (should be) I
needed to get the socket at a FLAPS since now of mine would get a good bite on
the sender. $43 for the sender and some bruised knuckles. Suggest laying down
cardboard and maybe a towel over the engine so you can lay on the engine a bit
more comfortably. Be careful with the sender I snapped the top on one and had
to beg for a replacement. Good DIY but will require a few swear words

--John Henard


> Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 05:48:50 +0000
> From: pethier@comcast.net
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
>
> 2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting out
in the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge was
pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went into a
store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full scale.
Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed that way
until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition on, back to
full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.
>
> All the other gauges seem to be acting normally.
>
> Anybody else ever seen anything like this?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/johnhenard@hotmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 13:43:06 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 13:43:54 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Does this thing have a sending unit? If it does, the sender could be bad.
Curious to find out what the problem turns out to be. We have an '02
Suburban with the 5.3 LS series V-8.


On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 12:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>wrote:

> I'm going to cast my vote for a short somewhere...
> On Dec 14, 2013 12:57 AM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> 2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting out
> in the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge
> was pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went
> into a store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full
> scale.  Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed
> that way until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition
> on, back to full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.
>
> All the other gauges seem to be acting normally.
>
> Anybody else ever seen anything like this?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 14:31:22 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

Where's the sender located on the engine? These LS series are very
different from the older SBCs.


On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 1:50 PM, John Henard <johnhenard@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Phil,Sounds like my 2004 Yukon Denali. Engine off oil pressure zero, turn
> on
> and it goes full scale and then back to zero when off. I read somewhere
> that
> was an indication of oil pressure sender. Replaced mine and fixed it and
> now
> acting normally.If your suburban is laid out like the Yukon (should be) I
> needed to get the socket at a FLAPS since now of mine would get a good
> bite on
> the sender. $43 for the sender and some bruised knuckles. Suggest laying
> down
> cardboard and maybe a towel over the engine so you can lay on the engine a
> bit
> more comfortably. Be careful with the sender I snapped the top on one and
> had
> to beg for a replacement. Good DIY but will require a few swear words
>
> --John Henard
>
>
> > Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 05:48:50 +0000
> > From: pethier@comcast.net
> > To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> >
> > 2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting
> out
> in the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge
> was
> pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went
> into a
> store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full scale.
> Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed that
> way
> until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition on,
> back to
> full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.
> >
> > All the other gauges seem to be acting normally.
> >
> > Anybody else ever seen anything like this?
> >
> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> > pethier@comcast.net
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> > http://www.mnautox.com
> > http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/johnhenard@hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 17:32:03 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] New Generac XG8000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just purchased a new Generac 8000 watt generator with electric start.  
The generator lives in an unheated shed and as with my old generator, I 
would remove the battery and leave it on a trickle charger in my 
basement until needed in an emergency.  On this generator, the battery 
looks to be a real job to replace quickly and has a small female 
receptacle for a 12 volt transformer(like a big cell phone charger) to 
keep the battery charged.  The manual says not to leave it plugged in 
for more than 48 hours.  Any suggestions for a trickle type charger with 
electronics to control the charge and that I can leave plugged in 
throughout the winter?  Thanks John Mitchell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 16:24:51 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 18:19:39 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52ACDC63.7050308@snet.net>
	<CANuE7YDUf9WNgwMd8kyrhDFu1rTpwmJAChpQb5WtuHn68dCPPA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New Generac XG8000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've also used there products.  The problem is the battery is buried 
under the fuel tank and is not accessible.  I was hoping to find a 
battery tender that would just plug into the charging socket.  Maybe I 
can modify one myself.  Thanks
On 12/14/2013 6:10 PM, John Innis wrote:
> I have used DelTran products (Battery Tender).  The Junior is a 3/4 
> amp charger that can be left attached to a battery full time.  I have 
> used these for several years in an unheated garage and my batteries 
> have remained in good condition.
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 4:32 PM, john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net 
>
>     I just purchased a new Generac 8000 watt generator with electric
>     start.  The generator lives in an unheated shed and as with my old
>     generator, I would remove the battery and leave it on a trickle
>     charger in my basement until needed in an emergency.  On this
>     generator, the battery looks to be a real job to replace quickly
>     and has a small female receptacle for a 12 volt transformer(like a
>     big cell phone charger) to keep the battery charged.  The manual
>     says not to leave it plugged in for more than 48 hours.  Any
>     suggestions for a trickle type charger with electronics to control
>     the charge and that I can leave plugged in throughout the winter?
>      Thanks John Mitchell
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
> =================================
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52ACDC63.7050308@snet.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:09:09 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac75H/M1ExSNOlptSrGQ12vaxOlBwgACVMXQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New Generac XG8000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

I keep my RC planes on trickle chargers during the flying season by having
the chargers on a standard home lighting timer.  I have them turn on for an
hour, once a day.  When I bring the planes back, I charge them up
completely, then let the trickle charger run for an hour a day to maintain
the charge.  Something like this would work for your situation too.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john Mitchell
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 2:32 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] New Generac XG8000

I just purchased a new Generac 8000 watt generator with electric start.  
The generator lives in an unheated shed and as with my old generator, I 
would remove the battery and leave it on a trickle charger in my 
basement until needed in an emergency.  On this generator, the battery 
looks to be a real job to replace quickly and has a small female 
receptacle for a 12 volt transformer(like a big cell phone charger) to 
keep the battery charged.  The manual says not to leave it plugged in 
for more than 48 hours.  Any suggestions for a trickle type charger with 
electronics to control the charge and that I can leave plugged in 
throughout the winter?  Thanks John Mitchell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 19:37:57 2013
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From: John Henard <johnhenard@hotmail.com>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:27:33 -0500
References: <1792144760.534071.1385480177493.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<2074460272.27775.1387000130982.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
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	FILETIME=[35FBAA90:01CEF93D]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ronny,For the 2004 Yukon it is located on the drivers side, top back of the
engine. You have to remove the covers and it is more of a job by feel than
sight.Look at these two links and they should
helphttp://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/237689/http://www.you
tube.com/watch?v=SmAkU80ShXg
--John Henard


> Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 14:31:22 -0600
> From: ronnie.day@gmail.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
>
> John,
>
> Where's the sender located on the engine? These LS series are very
> different from the older SBCs.
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 1:50 PM, John Henard <johnhenard@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> > Phil,Sounds like my 2004 Yukon Denali. Engine off oil pressure zero, turn
> > on
> > and it goes full scale and then back to zero when off. I read somewhere
> > that
> > was an indication of oil pressure sender. Replaced mine and fixed it and
> > now
> > acting normally.If your suburban is laid out like the Yukon (should be) I
> > needed to get the socket at a FLAPS since now of mine would get a good
> > bite on
> > the sender. $43 for the sender and some bruised knuckles. Suggest laying
> > down
> > cardboard and maybe a towel over the engine so you can lay on the engine
a
> > bit
> > more comfortably. Be careful with the sender I snapped the top on one and
> > had
> > to beg for a replacement. Good DIY but will require a few swear words
> >
> > --John Henard
> >
> >
> > > Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 05:48:50 +0000
> > > From: pethier@comcast.net
> > > To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> > >
> > > 2004 Chevrolet Suburban.  Picked up my truck after it had been sitting
> > out
> > in the 11-degree-F cold for a while.  Started OK.  The oil-pressure gauge
> > was
> > pegged WAY past the end.  Stopped the truck after it was warm and went
> > into a
> > store.  Came out and turned on the ignition.  Needle went to full scale.
> > Started the engine and needle went to full-on pegged again.  Stayed that
> > way
> > until I shut it off in the garage.  Needle went to zero.  Ignition on,
> > back to
> > full scale.  Restart engine, back to superpeg again.
> > >
> > > All the other gauges seem to be acting normally.
> > >
> > > Anybody else ever seen anything like this?
> > >
> > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> > > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> > > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> > > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> > > pethier@comcast.net
> > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> > > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> > > http://www.mnautox.com
> > > http://www.mntriumphs.org2004 Suburban.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > >
> > > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/johnhenard@hotmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/johnhenard@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 19:54:55 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 02:41:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1387075295;
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Whatever the cause, it healed itself overnight in the cold garage.  This morning it acted completely normal.  Drove the truck three times today for considerable distances and all the gauges acted as expected.

Maybe the brownies came and repaired it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "old dirtbeard" <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
> To: pethier@comcast.net, shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 9:59:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> Hi Phil,
> 
> 
> Just a guess, but perhaps the viscosity of the oil at 11 above was
> thick enough to jam the sender unit wide open and now it is stuck
> there. Maybe with heat and cycles it will free up again. Just a
> guess...
> 
> 
> best,
> 
> doug
> ________________
> '72 BSA B50SS
> '74 Moto Guzzi 850T
> 
> '01 HD XHL 883
> '03 GMC Cargo Van
> '07 Aprilia SXV 550
> '13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 06:49:47 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 13:41:40 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
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Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah.  That must be it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
> To: pethier@comcast.net, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2013 6:43:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> NAH.... The brownies only do upholstery repair and cookies.... elves
> do shoe
> repair, and work for Santa and some do cookies too... for complicated
> electronical problems... they are caused by Murphy and usually
> repaired by
> GM-gnomes. a 'small' group of disgruntled guys that were trained at GM
> thru
> affirmtive action, but were too short to reach the assembly line and
> people
> kept stepping on them and putting them in tall empty boxes...so GM cut
> them
> loose.
> 
> They vowed revenge by fixing mysterious problems and robbing GM of
> outrageously high service department charges. You sir, are a lucky man
> to
> have them on your side... You should leave a couple of packs of beef
> jerky
> and a beer in the garage to thank them.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pethier@comcast.net>
> To: "old dirtbeard" <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
> Cc: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 8:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> 
> 
> > Whatever the cause, it healed itself overnight in the cold garage.
> > This
> > morning it acted completely normal. Drove the truck three times
> > today for
> > considerable distances and all the gauges acted as expected.
> >
> > Maybe the brownies came and repaired it.
> >
> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> > pethier@comcast.net
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> > http://www.mnautox.com
> > http://www.mntriumphs.org
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "old dirtbeard" <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
> >> To: pethier@comcast.net, shop-talk@autox.team.net
> >> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 9:59:41 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil-pressure gauge goes nuts on Suburban.
> >> Hi Phil,
> >>
> >>
> >> Just a guess, but perhaps the viscosity of the oil at 11 above was
> >> thick enough to jam the sender unit wide open and now it is stuck
> >> there. Maybe with heat and cycles it will free up again. Just a
> >> guess...
> >>
> >>
> >> best,
> >>
> >> doug
> >> ________________
> >> '72 BSA B50SS
> >> '74 Moto Guzzi 850T
> >>
> >> '01 HD XHL 883
> >> '03 GMC Cargo Van
> >> '07 Aprilia SXV 550
> >> '13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	plain [67.195.15.66]) by smtp111.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 15
	Dec 2013 13:42:48 +0000 UTC
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 08:42:52 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net>, 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52ACDC63.7050308@snet.net>
	<75A4B914CF274EFBB3C4A1C13392972A@Antec300>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] New Generac XG8000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That sounds like it would work!  Thanks for the idea.  John
On 12/14/2013 7:09 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> John,
>
> I keep my RC planes on trickle chargers during the flying season by having
> the chargers on a standard home lighting timer.  I have them turn on for an
> hour, once a day.  When I bring the planes back, I charge them up
> completely, then let the trickle charger run for an hour a day to maintain
> the charge.  Something like this would work for your situation too.
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john Mitchell
> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 2:32 PM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: [Shop-talk] New Generac XG8000
>
> I just purchased a new Generac 8000 watt generator with electric start.
> The generator lives in an unheated shed and as with my old generator, I
> would remove the battery and leave it on a trickle charger in my
> basement until needed in an emergency.  On this generator, the battery
> looks to be a real job to replace quickly and has a small female
> receptacle for a 12 volt transformer(like a big cell phone charger) to
> keep the battery charged.  The manual says not to leave it plugged in
> for more than 48 hours.  Any suggestions for a trickle type charger with
> electronics to control the charge and that I can leave plugged in
> throughout the winter?  Thanks John Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jmitch@snet.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 16:16:15 2013
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From: "Mark Watson" <watsonm05@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF26A6CAE2.5170E01C-ON85257C35.000B69BA-85257C35.000C0EB9@mail.megageek.com>
	<002001ceef1d$99499730$cbdcc590$@com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 18:12:44 -0500
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	Bp8C16oFTRdsg==
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chain hoist question (electrically)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

    Pat said it best about the single to 3 phase converter.

    The "tar like" substance - sounds like verrrrry old rubber 
disintegrating into its original constituents.  I've seen the same thing on 
things I know were rubber in their original form.  I'd say live with it 
because you'd be hard pressed to find new rubber pieces.

    Enjoy!

Mark
-----Original Message----- 
From: Pat Horne
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 12:15 AM
To: eric@megageek.com ; shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chain hoist question (electrically)

Eric,

The best and easiest way to connect this up to single phase power is to use
a single to 3-phase converter.

If you are in need of a hoist, and the price was good enough to spend
another $50 on a phase converter, then this is fine. If it is too expensive,
sell this one and buy a single phase unit

I looked on ebay and found
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-1-3-3-4-HP-Static-Phase-Converter-Mill-Drill-Saw-
USA-MADE-Single-to-three-/261070427968?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc902
9740, which is a solid state phase converter for $46. Have no connection
with this company.

Try various solvents in moderation to see what attacks the tar.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
<snip>
Is there any way to wire this to work on Single Phase, maybe with reduced
power?
What is this thing worth?
Does anyone want/need this?

Finally, what could be the tar like substance that is all over that
controller?  Any ideas where this could have been used?  The buttons work,
but it just looks scary!  8>)
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/watsonm05@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 17 17:04:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 14:36:49 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] OBD-II software
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I have one of those ELM327 OBD-II Bluetooth dongles that I have been
using with the "Torque" software on my Android phone.  But I recently
bought a Windows 8 laptop, and I was wondering:  is there any good free
software
for Windows that works with ELM327 bluetooth dongles?

Thanks,

Doug
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 17 20:15:10 2013
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	2013 14:24:35 +0000 UTC
From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <000c01cef5f6$c217e970$4647bc50$@Ameritech.net>
	<1386903805.88736.YahooMailNeo@web181305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<52AA8CF1.6010001@gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 08:24:38 -0600
Thread-Index: AQIswTx4MZzT58PzgYG3tcaI5+7b8AIpd8uEAmZP21cCZPbchZllOwcg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Third try at a reply - my replies to the Forum bounce after a day.

After a long time getting to the right department at Lochinvar, I got a new
water heater under warrantee.  Got it home last night and it's not the same
model - 3" taller, different spacing on the inlet and outlet.  Now I'm
beefing up the stair landing above the heater with steel so I can cut out
the joists to get an inch of clearance for the B-vent.

The new heater has a separate anode, so in a year or two I'll be ordering a
magnesium anode from Waterheaterrescue.com.  And yes, I always use
dielectric unions.

At the same time I'm putting in the Watts instant hot water system - it
pressurizes the hot slightly and by installing a valve at any desired faucet
it keeps the water hot by bypassing the not-so-hot water into the cold side.
This will be a boon in the powder room, because that plumbing is on an
uninsulated outside wall and we leave the faucets trickling in long subzero
spells.  Yeah, it'll take longer to get COLD water, but we drink RO water
from the kitchen anyway.  Besides, toilet flushing will use up the warm
water and probably help prevent toilet tank sweating in the summer.

Thanks to all for the advice!
Karl
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 20:15:46 -0600
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
Cc: "<shop-talk@autox.team.net>" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Dec 17, 2013, at 8:24, "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net> wrote:

>  clearance for the B-vent.
>
> The new heater has a separate anode, so in a year or two I'll be ordering a
> magnesium anode from Waterheaterrescue.com.  And yes, I
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 06:08:18 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Exhaust pipe for generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I made an exhaust pipe for my generator out of stainless flex pipe and 
plan to run it out of my shed under a door to eliminate as much noise as 
possible when running it in an emergency.  My question is what can I 
wrap the pipe with where it may touch wood to prevent combustion?  Would 
header wrap work?  Thanks,  John Mitchell
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:26:11 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Exhaust pipe for generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My thought is that an air gap would work best - think double- or
triple-wall pipe like that used with wood stoves.

You want to keep your distance between heat and wood.  you'd feel bad
if hte shed burnt down in the middle of an emergency/

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 6:08 AM, john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net> wrote:
> I made an exhaust pipe for my generator out of stainless flex pipe and plan
> to run it out of my shed under a door to eliminate as much noise as possible
> when running it in an emergency.  My question is what can I wrap the pipe
> with where it may touch wood to prevent combustion?  Would header wrap work?
> Thanks,  John Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 09:47:15 -0500
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User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>, Shop Talk
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Exhaust pipe for generator
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On 12/19/2013 6:08 AM, john Mitchell wrote:
> I made an exhaust pipe for my generator out of stainless flex pipe and 
> plan to run it out of my shed under a door to eliminate as much noise 
> as possible when running it in an emergency.  My question is what can 
> I wrap the pipe with where it may touch wood to prevent combustion?  
> Would header wrap work?  Thanks,  John Mitchell
Most of the noise comes from the exhaust so a muffler would be more 
effective than putting it in the shed.  Simply venting with a pipe isn't 
going to reduce the noise much.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 11:17:06 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
  <gyoungwolf@earthlinknet.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 10:15:27 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Seeking Expedition suspension advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibm forwarding this to the Shop Talk list in hope that
the general knowledge base on the Shop Talk group
can come up with some answers.
Thanks guys, be sure to copy Grant Young with your
replies so that he can get to work on this near holiday
weekend!

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Grant Young
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2013 9:34 AM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Seeking Expedition suspension advice


My daughter's 2010 Expedition rear auto-level suspension has stopped working
and is
in the lowered position. The owner's manual does not have much information and
does not show the fuse
or relay or the location of the solenoids, pump, etc. Just hoping there is
someone
on our list who has solved such a problem, or knows where to start looking.
They
planned to leave on a trip pulling a trailer tomorrow and there is probably
very little chance the Chrysler dealer who sold it and carries the warranty
will
be able to fix it in time. It was once stuck in the lifted position after
that
dealer rotated the tires without disabling the system (which can be done with
dashboard controls) and it had to be taken back for "repair" about a month
ago. It
has worked okay until yesterday.
Thanks much,
Grant

_______________________________________________
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-----
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 16:11:00 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] led flashlight troubleshooting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

recently bought 4 of these little led flashlights and was well pleased...

http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flas ... flashlight

I found them again from another vendor (both in china) and ordered more to
give to friends at Christmas... well the last 4 came and not a one of them
worked... vendor gave a refund and I started tinkering... I have juice to the
led assembly in the business end of the light...but no light... anyone know of
a way to test led assemblies... it's only about 1/2" in diameter and totally
sealed (it seems) any suggestions ???

thanks
john


Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.




---
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 15:22:57 2013
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have you tired both polarities?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
> To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 4:11:00 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] led flashlight troubleshooting
> recently bought 4 of these little led flashlights and was well
> pleased...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flas ... flashlight
> 
> I found them again from another vendor (both in china) and ordered
> more to
> give to friends at Christmas... well the last 4 came and not a one of
> them
> worked... vendor gave a refund and I started tinkering... I have juice
> to the
> led assembly in the business end of the light...but no light... anyone
> know of
> a way to test led assemblies... it's only about 1/2" in diameter and
> totally
> sealed (it seems) any suggestions ???
> 
> thanks
> john
> 
> 
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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References: <03BDFD91AA5A48CDB2F2AB299B932B3D@john5043a2d406>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 14:27:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] led flashlight troubleshooting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one, also from China. On mine, which uses three batteries, it has to do
with the cheap metal. Sometimes it is the contacts at the bottom of the LED
assembly or the base that the assembly contacts, sometimes, it is at the
spring end.  At the spring end, the stopper/insulator, whatever you want to
call it, moves, and that either causes a short or no contact at that end.
Taking it apart and reassembling will work until the next time is moves from
the spring pressure. 

Regards,
Brian


>________________________________
>
From: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
>To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 5:11 PM
>Subject: [Shop-talk] led flashlight
troubleshooting
> 
>
>recently bought 4 of these little led flashlights and
was well pleased...
>
>http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flas ... flashlight
>
>I found them again from another vendor (both in china) and ordered more to
>give to friends at Christmas... well the last 4 came and not a one of them
>worked... vendor gave a refund and I started tinkering... I have juice to the
>led assembly in the business end of the light...but no light... anyone know
of
>a way to test led assemblies... it's only about 1/2" in diameter and
totally
>sealed (it seems) any suggestions ???
>
>thanks
>john
>
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 15:46:36 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 17:23:19 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/24/2013 17:23:16, Serialize complete at
	12/24/2013 17:23:16
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rotary air compressor design question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, here is the setup.  A buddy of mine needs an air compressor that 
delivers over 60CFM at 50psi (he closes sprinklers)

He bought a rotary compressor that delivers 60cfm @ 110 PSI.

There will be no tank in the setup (it's going to be trailer mounted.) 
It's powered by a gas engine.

So, a typical regulator would set down the psi and the compressor will 
turn 'off'.  But this unit is designed to run full bore with no limiter or 
idle control.

So, how can he step down the PSI while maintaining the CFMs, when he can't 
stop the compressor? (and there is no tank to act as a reservoir?)

I'm guess it's going to need some sort of TPI bypass value or something?

Any ideas?

To my fellow Christians, Merry Christmas. To everyone else, have a 
wonderful and joyous Holiday Season!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 08:04:40 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I tried flipping battery...still dark... checking voltage   one lead on the
positive battery post and the other on the case where the led screws in... got
1.5vdc there... so the problem must be in the led assembly... too small to
canabalize... it's only about 1/2" in diameter and 1/4" high...  it's just odd
that all 4 would fail... the seller offered no info except a refund.  BTW
here's a better link below if anyone is interested...  the others that I
bought previously are good lites with a long runtime for a single AA.


http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B006E0QAFY/
ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347327761&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+flashlighthttp://www.a
mazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B006E0QAFY/ref=sr_1_1?i
e=UTF8&qid=1347327761&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+flashlight

and Merry Christmas to all you shop-talk guys... you've saved my bacon a few
times this year... thanks

john


Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.




---
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protection is active.
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 07:41:17 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>, "shop-talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <03BDFD91AA5A48CDB2F2AB299B932B3D@john5043a2d406>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 08:40:09 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] led flashlight troubleshooting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I do not have that specific flashlight but have experienced intermittent and 
DOA with other small imported flashlights.

In all of my cases it was related to the way the PCB that the LED mounts to 
returns current to the battery. The PCB is a circular affair which has a pad 
in the center of it that presses against the center battery\battery holder 
post. This provides one side of the circuit. The outer diameter of the 
circular PCB also has pads on one side of it. Think single sided PCB, not 
two sided or with plating on the edges of the PCB, but only on one normal 
flat side of the PCB. These pads on the flat part are suppose to contact a 
"ledge" in the the metal body of the flashlight. This ledge provides the 
return circuit and also prevents the PCB from falling into the body of the 
flashlight.

The current flow is "battery -> pad in the center of the PCB -> LED and 
related current regulating circuits -> pads on the flat outer diameter of 
the PCB -> ledge on flashlight body -> flashlight body -> switch in the cap 
on the end of the flashlight body -> spring in the switch\cap -> other end 
of the battery.

In all cases my failures were related to the PCB being a very poor press fit 
into the flashlight body and the outer diameter pads not contacting the 
ledge. If I would press on the lens to push the PCB into the body they would 
light up. Note that "press ..." did not actually cause the lens to move any 
discernable amount. All is seemed to do was press the outer diameter 
contacts down hard enough to actually press against the ledge and work.

The pressing incantation seemed to permanently fix some of them but for 
others it was 'only worked while pressed'. Needless to say those that would 
only work if I had my finger on the top of the lens were classified as "did 
not seem to fit the spirit of useful flashlight design" and were trashed.

Yours may have much better construction techniques.

Arvid
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <9FBBB393EA9A40238171BEBC89BD3D19@john5043a2d406>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 07:26:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Check the continuity of the led assembly. If you have another similar unit,
take the led assembly and swap them out. If you have alligator clip leads you
can also use the battery and see if the leds will light up when you touch the
leads to the contacts. I've also used foil to help the cheap contacts make a
good connection when reassembling. For the price of that one and what Amazon
charges for returns, it may be more cost effective to just trash it. 
Regards,
Brian


>________________________________
> From: John Niolon
<jniolon@att.net>
>To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Wednesday,
December 25, 2013 9:04 AM
>Subject: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight
again
> 
>
>I tried flipping battery...still dark... checking voltage   one
lead on the
>positive battery post and the other on the case where the led
screws in... got
>1.5vdc there... so the problem must be in the led
assembly... too small to
>canabalize... it's only about 1/2" in diameter and
1/4" high...  it's just odd
>that all 4 would fail... the seller offered no
info except a refund.  BTW
>here's a better link below if anyone is
interested...  the others that I
>bought previously are good lites with a long
runtime for a single AA.
>
>
>http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B006E0QAFY/
>ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347327761&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+flashlighthttp://www.a
>mazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B006E0QAFY/ref=sr_1_1?i
>e=UTF8&qid=1347327761&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+flashlight
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 09:51:51 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 08:49:08 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8BejjxGx4C7+RoS76eQVuJ0WT8lAAFVS7g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> the others that I
> bought previously are good lites with a long runtime for a single AA.

Like so many other things these days, quality control is non-existent.  If a production problem arises, they may have made millions
of units before discovering it.  No telling when the problem arose, or how far down the channel the defective units have gone.
Recalling all of the potentially defective units is a huge expense.  Since the vast majority of customers will not pursue
satisfaction from a defective product, it winds up being cheaper to just accept returns cheerfully and keep shipping potentially
defective product.

I went through something similar with some LED "head" lights (to be worn on the forehead).  They work really well when they work.
Bought a 3-pack of a new model at Home Depot and one of them was dead right out of the package.  Took it back, they gave me another
package, no comment at all.  Two of those died within a week.  Took it back, got another 3 pack.  When two of those died within a
few weeks, I went back and was informed they don't carry them any more.  No refund.  I probably could have made a fuss, but it was
less than $5 and just not worth the effort.

BTW, Horrible Freight was giving away lights similar to yours, and so far all of them (that I got) are still working fine.  Still
purely luck of the draw with them, but the odds seem to be improving.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 10:10:03 2013
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, "shop-talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <64.71.21884.38C0BB25@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:09:51 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 Like so many other things these days, quality control is non-existent.

Randall... sadly what you say is getting truer and truer... although in the 
past two weeks I've had three experiences with excellent customer 
service...from people who actually spoke the same language I speak..

One was from U-verse (go figure)... tech went well out of his way, including 
a return phone call to check up later) to fix a wireless printer problem  on 
an HP printer... wouldn't get that from HP directly !!

Another was with Woodland Power Products, the makers of Cyclone Rake lawn 
vacuums... Needed replacement impeller and housing for a 16 year old unit... 
they had the part, shipped it two day and it     was COVERED UNDER WARRANTY 
!!!!! on a 16 year old unit !!!  My next child will be named Cyclone.

third was from e-replacementparts.com   where a customer service guy 
actually went to the warehouse shelves to put his hand on parts... and when 
he didn't have the needed part did the research to find it and get it to 
me...

It has restored my faith (to some degree) in American service...  almost 
makes me forget all the others I've cussed out !!!

yall have a Merry Christmas now, ya hear ???\

john 


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 10:19:28 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 12:18:03 -0500
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/25/2013 9:04 AM, John Niolon wrote:
> I tried flipping battery...still dark... checking voltage   one lead on the
> positive battery post and the other on the case where the led screws in... got
> 1.5vdc there... so the problem must be in the led assembly... too small to
> canabalize... it's only about 1/2" in diameter and 1/4" high...  it's just odd
> that all 4 would fail... the seller offered no info except a refund.  BTW
> here's a better link below if anyone is interested...  the others that I
> bought previously are good lites with a long runtime for a single AA.

LEDs have a specific forward voltage and it won't light unless the 
voltage is maintained.  Battery voltage can be different under load.  7 
watts is a lot of power to run on AA and the voltage may drop well below 
the forward voltage with a cheap battery.  Standard "Heavy Duty" 
batteries often supplied with lights do not produce a consistent voltage 
over its life.  The voltage drops over time.  As soon as the voltage 
drops below the forward voltage the LED will not light.  Alkaline 
batteries will produce a more consistent voltage over the usable life 
then drop all at once at the end.  You might try a new, fresh alkaline 
or lithium battery.

>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B006E0QAFY/
> ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347327761&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+flashlighthttp://www.a
> mazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable/dp/B006E0QAFY/ref=sr_1_1?i
> e=UTF8&qid=1347327761&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+flashlight
>
> and Merry Christmas to all you shop-talk guys... you've saved my bacon a few
> times this year... thanks
>
> john
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
>
>
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_thomas@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 11:31:06 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 13:29:57 -0500
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <03BDFD91AA5A48CDB2F2AB299B932B3D@john5043a2d406>
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.16 (2007-06-09)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] led flashlight troubleshooting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 04:11:00PM -0600, John Niolon wrote:
> recently bought 4 of these little led flashlights and was well pleased...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flas ... flashlight
> 

For some reason my email client munched on the URL so I couldn't look
at the lights in question but the first thing to check (after polarity, etc)
is that the various pieces that screw together are making good electrical 
contact since most flashlight designs use the body as one of the conductors.  

Unscrew everything, and rub the ends back and forth a few times on some 320 
grit sandpaper then use some steel wool to lightly scuff up the threads.
That'll give you good electrical contact when everything is screwed back
together.

Another thing to check is that the leads to the LED weren't severed when the
reflector was installed at the factory.  This happened with a couple 
flashlights I bought off ebay.  It's a simple fix if you have a soldering iron
and some ~18-20ga wire.


-- 
Jimmie Mayfield  
http://www.sackheads.org/jimmie         email: jimmie+shoptalk@sackheads.org
My mail provider does not welcome UCE -- http://www.sackheads.org/uce
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 13:27:50 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:03:30 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <03BDFD91AA5A48CDB2F2AB299B932B3D@john5043a2d406>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] led flashlight troubleshooting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I guess I have been lucky so far; I purchased seven of these a couple of 
months ago over two different orders; no real problems yet.  The first 
batch had a very tight lens focusing ring; on the second batch the ring 
was  loose.  Otherwise they work fine.  I put some silicone grease on 
the threads and put one in each vehicle. Great little lights for three 
or four bucks, if they work.


On 12/24/2013 2:11 PM, John Niolon wrote:
> recently bought 4 of these little led flashlights and was well pleased...
>
> http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-300lm-Flas  ... flashlight


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 15:04:05 2013
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References: <64.71.21884.38C0BB25@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 16:02:52 -0600
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] troubleshooting LED flashlight again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Dec 25, 2013, at 10:49, "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> the others that I
>> bought previously are good lites with a long runtime for a single AA.
>
> Like so many other things these days, quality control is non-existent.

Many cheap vendors in china are selling qc rejects. The original buyer rejects
the lot, but the factory sells them  to someone else. The second buyer might,
or might not, do any thing about identifying the defective pieces, and repair
or discard them. Get stuff from a good seller, and you get a good deal; get a
bad one, you get crap.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 18:07:31 2013
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:04:13 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
	FILETIME=[592BCC20:01CF0360]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like to set up a relatively inexpensive standby generator for my
vacation home.  The house uses propane for heat, hot water and cooking, so the
logical thing to do would be to get a propane powered generator or convert one
to run on propane.  I really dont need much power; more than anything, I want
to keep the house from freezing if we lose power while we are away, so Id be
happy if all it powered was the furnace,   But, all I have found are pretty
substantial units that cost close to $2,000, which is more than I want to
spend for something like this.  Does anyone know if it is possible to convert
a smaller generator to become a standby unit?  Are there any other options I
should consider?

Thanks.
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 15:57:57 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8A+eSm1aqR/RZoTzySJgx+xsA1hABm9Niw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rotary air compressor design question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I'm guess it's going to need some sort of TPI bypass value or 
> something?

Yup, need a pressure relief valve that will flow 60 cfm and can be set to 50 psi.  It must already have a PRV, perhaps it can be
adjusted to 50 psi (maybe by trimming turns out of the spring).

Might be worth looking into some way of slowing down the engine as well; modify the governor or whatnot.  That relief valve is going
to be noisy.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'James Stone'" <jandkstone99@msn.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
	<shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 17:26:24 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8DaQns1/NKOQGKRFesnowqrWiMwQAARmVA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Are there any  other options I
> should consider?

What about installing a heat source that doesn't require electricity?  Like maybe a convection wall furnace, with millivolt pilot
light system; or one of these
http://www.woodstove.com/fireside-franklin

Probably not enough for comfort heating for the whole house, but maybe enough to keep it above freezing inside.  And you could add a
manual generator for when you are home.

Turning a standard manual generator into an automatic backup generator sounds like quite a project.  Logic to start the engine,
electrically operated transfer switch and so on.  And if it's not big enough to carry the entire house, you'll have to run new
circuits to the "essential" items, so the non-essential items can stay on the utility side of the switch.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 09:53:14 -0500
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm building a wiring harness for dual horns on a motorcycle. Instead of 2
leads coming off the relay, I'd like to have one lead to one horn, then tap
off that for the second horn.

I can't find, with my limited wiring vocabulary, a female disconnect that has
2 crimps. Do they exist, or should I just go up one size so that I can crimp
(and solder) 2 wires in one crimp, or?

thanks,
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, "shop-talk List"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <24D1CA1C-D1D2-42E2-AFF9-9609A2EC21C9@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 22:09:34 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure exactly what you are seeking. Do you need to be able to 
connect/disconnect this or is a permanent connection OK? If permanent then 
solder/heat shrink is a good choice.

Anyway, I like to use Posi-Lock connectors whenever space is not at a 
premium (they are a little bigger than the typical crimp connectors).
They also have a Posi-Tap connector to tap a wire into an existing wire. Way 
better than the hated 'suitcase' connectors.

Posi-Locks connections can be easily made then opened for situations where 
occasional removal is needed. They also have water-proof covers. I used 
these to re-wire a car trailer and had no electrical issues for years 
thereafter (I sold the trailer).

http://www.posi-lock.com/

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>

> I can't find, with my limited wiring vocabulary, a female disconnect that 
> has
> 2 crimps. Do they exist, or should I just go up one size so that I can 
> crimp
> (and solder) 2 wires in one crimp, or?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 20:49:20 2013
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:44:27 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,  shop-talk List
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <24D1CA1C-D1D2-42E2-AFF9-9609A2EC21C9@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim - You may be looking for a "piggy back spade connector".  Try that 
in your favorite search engine.  See 
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/85412/N0840.oap for some 
examples that turn a single spade connector into two.

Brian

On 12/26/2013 6:53 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I'm building a wiring harness for dual horns on a motorcycle. Instead of 2
> leads coming off the relay, I'd like to have one lead to one horn, then tap
> off that for the second horn.
>
> I can't find, with my limited wiring vocabulary, a female disconnect that has
> 2 crimps. Do they exist, or should I just go up one size so that I can crimp
> (and solder) 2 wires in one crimp, or?
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:49:39 -0800
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I can think of three options.

One is the "piggyback" crimp connector.  It's a female spade connector with 
a male tab added.
Example from RadShack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12529249

They also carry a set of adapters that will do the job:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103503

Either solution does take up a bit of room, so you'll want to verify that 
the additional wires or adapter don't hit other tabs on the relay.

Another solution is to put two wires in one terminal.  This only works if 
you are putting two smaller wires in one larger terminal.  You can take two 
14ga or 16ga wires and put them into one 10ga connector, for example.  That 
solution doesn't take up as much room.  And you have to be careful that 
both wires are inserted far enough into the terminal that both get crimped 
tight.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       434,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 22:51:18 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 9:49 PM, Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com> wrote:

> I can think of three options.
>
> One is the "piggyback" crimp connector.  It's a female spade connector
> with a male tab added.
> Example from RadShack:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12529249
>
> They also carry a set of adapters that will do the job:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103503
>
> Either solution does take up a bit of room, so you'll want to verify that
> the additional wires or adapter don't hit other tabs on the relay.
>

Another solution, when space is tight, is to use a single wire at the
relay, but split it a little ways away.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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To: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>, Shop Talk List
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 12/27/2013 7:04 PM, James Stone wrote:
> I would like to set up a relatively inexpensive standby generator for my
> vacation home.  The house uses propane for heat, hot water and cooking, so the
> logical thing to do would be to get a propane powered generator or convert one

Just had a 20 KW Generac propane installed last month at a relative's 
home, impetus being a terminally ill resident with need of power for 
life support equipment in a long term outage.

Very nice, apparently high quality unit with a 1L V-twin engine and 
fancy electronics. Supposed to be able to hold up a whole 200 amp 
service panel. But it was $8,100 installed. I found the unit online for 
$4500 if you're hard core DIY (oh, wait, that's why we're here!) but was 
beyond me and a difficult install in this location and not an 
unreasonable installation charge and margin on it.
(see: http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com )

Seeing it, I'm not sure you could go a whole lot cheaper. They make 
smaller ones and have the option to have some kinda switch to drop 
individual high-load non-essential circuits like the AC. But they 
weren't all that much cheaper. Little ones might work for emergencies 
where you can manually intervene, but for a totally unattended 
application I'm thinking you have to pony up for something more.

-w
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 06:59:44 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Everything you ever wanted to know about propane conversion:
http://www.propane-generators.com



On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 6:04 PM, James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:

> I would like to set up a relatively inexpensive standby generator for my
> vacation home.  The house uses propane for heat, hot water and cooking, so
> the
> logical thing to do would be to get a propane powered generator or convert
> one
> to run on propane.  I really don t need much power; more than anything, I
> want
> to keep the house from freezing if we lose power while we are away, so I d
> be
> happy if all it powered was the furnace,   But, all I have found are pretty
> substantial units that cost close to $2,000, which is more than I want to
> spend for something like this.  Does anyone know if it is possible to
> convert
> a smaller generator to become a standby unit?  Are there any other options
> I
> should consider?
>
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:34:30 -0500
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20131227194138.0076e378@mail.avvanta.com>
To: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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On Dec 27, 2013, at 10:49 PM, Todd Walke wrote:

> Another solution is to put two wires in one terminal.

This is specifically what I was trying to ask - if there was a special
connector that would accept and crimp two wires independently. Sounds like no
and that the above is the way to go.

The piggy-back piece would functionally work but I'd like to keep non-soldered
connections to a minimum since these will be exposed to front wheel spray.

Thanks all.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 08:32:28 2013
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[D314BBB0:01CF03E1]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
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Thanks guys.  I will try to answer all of the questions.

The house is on eastern Long Island.  While that isnt a deep freeze area, it
certainly gets cold enough to freeze pipes.  And, with electricity powered by
the infamous LIPA, being without power after a big snow storm is a definite
possibility.
The house is a small cottage: 780 sq feet, two bedrooms, one bathroom.  Full
basemen, full attic.  Minimal 1950s insulation in the walls (about 1 thick),
better in the attic roof.
Draining the house would be pretty easy and that is an option.  However, my
daughter lives in Manhattan and does go out for a visit periodically.  She
didnt inherit my DIY genes, so turning on and re-draining the system is
probably more than shed be able to handle.
The house is occupied less than half the winter, so any kind alternative heat
source is not going to meet the need.
The house has two large propane tanks and the gas company tops them off every
month, so the odds are pretty good wed be fine during a power outage.
While making the house more comfortable while we are there would be a nice
side benefit, my primary interest is in protecting the pipes when we are 1,000
miles away.
Finally, the $2000 number came from this:
http://www.amazon.com/Generac-5837-CorePower-Air-Cooled-Generator/dp/B003XQWY
W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388243033&sr=8-1&keywords=standby+generator.  I
havent done any research at all; that was just a quick and dirty search.
And, of course, 2 grand doesnt include installation.  While I suspect I could
handle most, if not all, of the job, I also dont think that would be legal,
so it would have to be done professionally.  I am sure the total bill will
will be well above the 2 grand mark, especially given New York labor rates.

I suspect this is my only option, but I am open to other options.  As I think
about it, it probably doesnt have to be totally automatic.  I could get a
transfer switch and convert a standard generator to propane (thanks for the
conversion link, John) and then ask a friend to go over to the house to power
it up in an emergency. But, I suspect I may as well just go with the small
standby unit at that point.

Thanks again.  Let me know if the above sparks any other ideas.

Jim

On Dec 28, 2013, at 7:59 AM, John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:

> Everything you ever wanted to know about propane conversion:
> http://www.propane-generators.com
>
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 6:04 PM, James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:
> I would like to set up a relatively inexpensive standby generator for my
> vacation home.  The house uses propane for heat, hot water and cooking, so
the
> logical thing to do would be to get a propane powered generator or convert
one
> to run on propane.  I really don t need much power; more than anything, I
want
> to keep the house from freezing if we lose power while we are away, so I d
be
> happy if all it powered was the furnace,   But, all I have found are pretty
> substantial units that cost close to $2,000, which is more than I want to
> spend for something like this.  Does anyone know if it is possible to
convert
> a smaller generator to become a standby unit?  Are there any other options
I
> should consider?
>
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
> --
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
> =================================
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 08:41:23 2013
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:38:50 -0500
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	<AEA19FE4-FCFD-4918-A1A0-2DD787C147CD@groupwbench.org>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[E8C48840:01CF03E2]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Why not just solder the connectors on and protect them with heat shrink
tubing?  That is what I did when I rewired my Alpine last summer.  One small
diameter piece of tubing over the ferrule end (I think that is what it is
called; the shank where it was crimped and soldered) and a larger piece to
cover the connector.  You can even use heat shrink tubing designed for
exterior use.  There is a standard size that is just barely larger than the
connector end and when it shrinks it will also shrink over the soldered part
(shrink the tubing over that end first), giving it added protection.  The
resulting connection looks pretty good; certainly a lot better than the
standard plastic crimped ones, IMHO.

On Dec 28, 2013, at 9:34 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> On Dec 27, 2013, at 10:49 PM, Todd Walke wrote:
>
>> Another solution is to put two wires in one terminal.
>
> This is specifically what I was trying to ask - if there was a special
> connector that would accept and crimp two wires independently. Sounds like
no
> and that the above is the way to go.
>
> The piggy-back piece would functionally work but I'd like to keep
non-soldered
> connections to a minimum since these will be exposed to front wheel spray.
>
> Thanks all.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:38 AM, James Stone wrote:

> Why not just solder the connectors on and protect them with heat shrink
> tubing?

Do you mean the actual connection so it can't be unplugged? I can't, it needs
to stay removable.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 09:50:29 2013
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From: Jim <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 11:49:00 -0500
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	FILETIME=[B90D3750:01CF03EC]
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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No, I meant solder the connector on to the wires rather than just crimp it on.
That would give you a more secure connection if you just put two wires into a
single connector.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:48 AM, "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
wrote:
>
>> On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:38 AM, James Stone wrote:
>>
>> Why not just solder the connectors on and protect them with heat shrink
>> tubing?
>
> Do you mean the actual connection so it can't be unplugged? I can't, it
needs
> to stay removable.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
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Jim - Here is another idea.  Rather than heat the house, how about just 
heating the pipes?  I seem to recall some sort of electrical pipe heater 
wrap that was controlled by a thermostat, set down at about 45 degrees. 
  You could then put insulated pipe wrap on top of that.  If the current 
draw is low enough, you could look at a bank of batteries to power it, 
like people with solar power off the grid.  The batteries could be on a 
good charger so they stay maintained.

I don't know the pricing on this option, but it avoids an engine, 
generator, and transfer switch.  You may even find a small second hand 
system from someone that upgraded to a larger size.

Brian

On 12/28/2013 7:31 AM, James Stone wrote:
> Thanks guys.  I will try to answer all of the questions.
>
> The house is on eastern Long Island.  While that isnt a deep freeze area, it
> certainly gets cold enough to freeze pipes.  And, with electricity powered by
> the infamous LIPA, being without power after a big snow storm is a definite
> possibility.
> The house is a small cottage: 780 sq feet, two bedrooms, one bathroom.  Full
> basemen, full attic.  Minimal 1950s insulation in the walls (about 1 thick),
> better in the attic roof.
> Draining the house would be pretty easy and that is an option.  However, my
> daughter lives in Manhattan and does go out for a visit periodically.  She
> didnt inherit my DIY genes, so turning on and re-draining the system is
> probably more than shed be able to handle.
> The house is occupied less than half the winter, so any kind alternative heat
> source is not going to meet the need.
> The house has two large propane tanks and the gas company tops them off every
> month, so the odds are pretty good wed be fine during a power outage.
> While making the house more comfortable while we are there would be a nice
> side benefit, my primary interest is in protecting the pipes when we are 1,000
> miles away.
> Finally, the $2000 number came from this:
> http://www.amazon.com/Generac-5837-CorePower-Air-Cooled-Generator/dp/B003XQWY
> W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388243033&sr=8-1&keywords=standby+generator.  I
> havent done any research at all; that was just a quick and dirty search.
> And, of course, 2 grand doesnt include installation.  While I suspect I could
> handle most, if not all, of the job, I also dont think that would be legal,
> so it would have to be done professionally.  I am sure the total bill will
> will be well above the 2 grand mark, especially given New York labor rates.
>
> I suspect this is my only option, but I am open to other options.  As I think
> about it, it probably doesnt have to be totally automatic.  I could get a
> transfer switch and convert a standard generator to propane (thanks for the
> conversion link, John) and then ask a friend to go over to the house to power
> it up in an emergency. But, I suspect I may as well just go with the small
> standby unit at that point.
>
> Thanks again.  Let me know if the above sparks any other ideas.
>
> Jim
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 10:30:41 2013
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From: Jim <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 12:29:19 -0500
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To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Standby Generators
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Hmmm. A very interesting idea. I'll do a little research and see what I can learn. 
Thanks. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 12:00 PM, "Brian Kemp" <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> Jim - Here is another idea.  Rather than heat the house, how about just heating the pipes?  I seem to recall some sort of electrical pipe heater wrap that was controlled by a thermostat, set down at about 45 degrees.  You could then put insulated pipe wrap on top of that.  If the current draw is low enough, you could look at a bank of batteries to power it, like people with solar power off the grid.  The batteries could be on a good charger so they stay maintained.
> 
> I don't know the pricing on this option, but it avoids an engine, generator, and transfer switch.  You may even find a small second hand system from someone that upgraded to a larger size.
> 
> Brian
> 
>> On 12/28/2013 7:31 AM, James Stone wrote:
>> Thanks guys.  I will try to answer all of the questions.
>> 
>> The house is on eastern Long Island.  While that isnt a deep freeze area, it
>> certainly gets cold enough to freeze pipes.  And, with electricity powered by
>> the infamous LIPA, being without power after a big snow storm is a definite
>> possibility.
>> The house is a small cottage: 780 sq feet, two bedrooms, one bathroom.  Full
>> basemen, full attic.  Minimal 1950s insulation in the walls (about 1 thick),
>> better in the attic roof.
>> Draining the house would be pretty easy and that is an option.  However, my
>> daughter lives in Manhattan and does go out for a visit periodically.  She
>> didnt inherit my DIY genes, so turning on and re-draining the system is
>> probably more than shed be able to handle.
>> The house is occupied less than half the winter, so any kind alternative heat
>> source is not going to meet the need.
>> The house has two large propane tanks and the gas company tops them off every
>> month, so the odds are pretty good wed be fine during a power outage.
>> While making the house more comfortable while we are there would be a nice
>> side benefit, my primary interest is in protecting the pipes when we are 1,000
>> miles away.
>> Finally, the $2000 number came from this:
>> http://www.amazon.com/Generac-5837-CorePower-Air-Cooled-Generator/dp/B003XQWY
>> W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388243033&sr=8-1&keywords=standby+generator.  I
>> havent done any research at all; that was just a quick and dirty search.
>> And, of course, 2 grand doesnt include installation.  While I suspect I could
>> handle most, if not all, of the job, I also dont think that would be legal,
>> so it would have to be done professionally.  I am sure the total bill will
>> will be well above the 2 grand mark, especially given New York labor rates.
>> 
>> I suspect this is my only option, but I am open to other options.  As I think
>> about it, it probably doesnt have to be totally automatic.  I could get a
>> transfer switch and convert a standard generator to propane (thanks for the
>> conversion link, John) and then ask a friend to go over to the house to power
>> it up in an emergency. But, I suspect I may as well just go with the small
>> standby unit at that point.
>> 
>> Thanks again.  Let me know if the above sparks any other ideas.
>> 
>> Jim
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 11:44:26 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've never been a fan of the Scotch-lock connectors that let you tap into
an existing wire by crimping them on. They actually cut through the
insulation and often some of the wire strands. If there's flex or
vibration, like on a bike, they will often cut completely through the
original wire. That said, the Posi-Lock looks like a better solution
because it appears to isolate the joint with the cover. I like soldering,
but not on a bike, again because of higher vibration.

You can get connectors with different sized terminals that work with
different gauge wire. For example a quarter inch female spade connector
that the wire end is sized for small (red insulator-?), medium (blue-?) or
large (yellow) wire. You get the connector with the correct connector
flavor to plug on to the relay, but with the wire end big enough to
accommodate two wires. Use good quality crimpers. Cheap crimpers are
usually as big a culprit as the crimp connects.

You mentioned weather proofing concerns, too. Use heat shrink, probably
multiple layers. I picked some so called "weather proof" connectors, at a
local O'Reilly's, I recall. They had lengths (a couple of inches) of heat
shrink already attached as well as having some sealer inside the tubing.
After I crimped them on to the wire and used a heat gun, the none hardening
sealer created about as water proof a connection as is possible, and since
the connectors weren't soldered they weren't as prone to breaking due to
vibration. A little more expensive, but worth it, IMO.

FWIW,
Ron


On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 10:49 AM, Jim <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:

> No, I meant solder the connector on to the wires rather than just crimp it
> on.
> That would give you a more secure connection if you just put two wires
> into a
> single connector.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:48 AM, "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
> wrote:
> >
> >> On Dec 28, 2013, at 10:38 AM, James Stone wrote:
> >>
> >> Why not just solder the connectors on and protect them with heat shrink
> >> tubing?
> >
> > Do you mean the actual connection so it can't be unplugged? I can't, it
> needs
> > to stay removable.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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On Dec 28, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Jim wrote:

> No, I meant solder the connector on to the wires rather than just crimp it
on. That would give you a more secure connection if you just put two wires
into a single connector.

Oh yea, I am doing that. Crimp, solder, heat shrink.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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On 12/28/2013 10:38 AM, James Stone wrote:
> Why not just solder the connectors on and protect them with heat shrink
> tubing?  That is what I did when I rewired my Alpine last summer.

That's about what I'd do. Important thing - DO NOT force the electrical 
connection to do the work of a mechanical connection. Use both.

Twist the wires, put in connector, mash with a good crimp tool (not the 
$3 stamped steel thingies), flow solder (gas free joint), heat shrink 
tube, and something upstream on the wires to physically hold them so the 
vibration to the joint is reduced.

-wayne
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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> They had lengths (a couple of 
> inches) of heat
> shrink already attached as well as having some sealer inside 
> the tubing.

FWIW, you can also buy just the tubing with the sealer inside.  Any good electronics supply should have it, or I get mine at
McMaster-Carr.

My preference is to start with an uninsulated terminal (cut off the plastic if necessary), crimp it on the wire, then solder the end
of the wire where it protrudes from the crimp.  The crimp gives a sound mechanical connection that will resist vibration better than
a solder joint; while the solder ensures a sound electrical connection (and the crimp prevents the wire from vibrating at the
surface of the solder).

Then add a piece of shrink tubing over the crimp and up onto the wire for 3/4" or so.  For a female terminal, add a second piece
that fits over the large part of the terminal and partially covers the opening.  The open end will stretch to let the male terminal
in, and help seal the joint.

http://tinyurl.com/l73f8dh

One other point, be sure the wire surface is clean and bright before the crimp.  If the wire itself is old, you may need to clean
the strands.
http://tinyurl.com/ksfgktk

Randall
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 20:02:41 +0000
From: Nick Brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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Jim wrote:
 >Hmmm. A very interesting idea. I'll do a little research and see what 
I can learn.

Jim,

This may be of interest:

http://www.pentairthermal.com/application/pipe-freeze-protection/commercial-and-housing-facilities/index.aspx

Uses Raychem trace heating tape. I imagine the effectiveness would be 
limited by the length of the power cut. Unless you can rig up backup 
power, possibly the requirements would be less than a furnace.

Nick Brearley
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From: "ElanS4" <ElanS4@cox.net>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAMHhs6eNjHW8wxBO0q4LjBjQjB+dsCqn-MY-1tJj1RcPHL6i-w@mail.gmail.com>
	<767X1n00E0NyJgq0167YlT>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> crimp it on the wire, then solder the end of the wire where it protrudes
from the 
> crimp.  The crimp gives a sound mechanical connection that will resist
vibration better 
> than a solder joint; while the solder ensures a sound electrical
connection 

It seems that everyone here believes that a soldered joint is better than a
crimped one.

That is not correct.  A crimp connection - if done correctly with a GOOD
crimp tool  (not the cheap $3 ones) will make a strong mechanical AND
electrical connection.  Soldering will make a good electrical connection -
however, it also make the wire stiff and subject to cracking from
vibrations.  Even if you only solder the tip of the wire, solder is made to
flow along the wire to penetrate and make the good electrical connection.
This also makes the stiffness extend beyond the crimp and highly increases
the possibility of the wire cracking.

There is a reason that car and motorcycle manufacturers make all the
electrical connections to wires with crimps.  There is a reason that Mil
Specs require wiring harnesses to be crimped and only soldered in specific
cases - this comes from someone that had to be Mil Spec certified for
soldering and crimping for a job I had in college years ago.

If you need to connect two wires together, you can make a solder connection
in a wiring harness, but do it far from the ends of the wire and tape it up
to support the wire and lessen vibrations.  But better still, use a crimp
connecter with one wire in one end, and two wires in the other end (and of
course covered with heat shrink tubing).

Tim Mullen
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 17:03:43 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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On 12/28/2013 5:08 PM, ElanS4 wrote:
> It seems that everyone here believes that a soldered joint is better than a
> crimped one.
> That is not correct.  A crimp connection - if done correctly with a GOOD
> crimp tool  (not the cheap $3 ones) will make a strong mechanical AND

Good point, and mostly agreed. I understand the brittleness issue with 
soldering and should have mentioned that. And obviously OEM wiring 
harnesses are crimped. But that's assuming you have a dedicated 
expensive crimp robot, fasteners for the specific application, etc. I 
have an AMP crimper and three dies at the office that cost over $300 for 
RJ termminations and it's worth every bit in reliable network connections.

If you're doing a DIY repair or replacement, I still think some more 
improvisation and "over doing it" is not a bad thing. A car is a pretty 
harsh and demanding environment, with temperature extremes, weather, 
vibration, and all that.

-w
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:50:44 -0800
Thread-Index: AQEDVmbedIkDkveVSOYuvpYEia1PQZwBgxOAgAA7IUA=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> It seems that everyone here believes that a soldered joint is 
> better than a crimped one.

Not what I said.  What I said is that crimp plus solder is better than either one alone.

> There is a reason that car and motorcycle manufacturers make all the
> electrical connections to wires with crimps.  

Mostly because it is cheaper.

Years ago, I worked for a company that did minicomputer installations aboard seismic survey ships.  To do a seismic survey, they
would set off the equivalent of a keg of dynamite (or more) right next to the stern of the ship, every 5-8 seconds, 24 hours a day
for days or even weeks at a time.  The whole ship would jump, every time a shot went off.  We (my company) were responsible for
connecting the minicomputers to other ships systems, which was done with a series of crimped terminals; professionally applied with
the expensive, calibrated, ratcheting crimp tools; and 100% inspected.

More often than not, when I visited a ship (for software installation or troubleshooting), I found one or more of those crimps that
had succumbed to the constant vibration and salt air environment.  I always repaired them with crimp plus solder, and I never found
one of mine that had failed.

With a crimp, you get basically a few lines of contact between the wire strands and the terminal, a few thousandths wide at best.
In between are air gaps.  With solder, you get 100% contact, no gaps.

> Even if you only solder the tip of the wire, solder is made to
> flow along the wire to penetrate and make the good electrical connection.

But if you make the joint quickly enough (and without overheating), it won't penetrate all the way through the crimp to the other
side.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 19:11:55 2013
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From: Jim <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:10:31 -0500
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
	FILETIME=[26D468F0:01CF043B]
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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> But if you make the joint quickly enough (and without overheating), it won't
penetrate all the way through the crimp to the other side.


Randall: the way you wrote this sounds like you don't want the solder to go
all the way to the other side. Is that correct?  I made sure all of my
connections flowed through the ferrule, assuming that would be best. Was that
wrong?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 8:50 PM, "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> But if you make the joint quickly enough (and without overheating), it won't
penetrate all the way through the crimp to the other
> side.
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To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: 'Shop Talk List' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I won't enter the fray regarding solder or crimping or both - not enough
experience on my part to be expert. But Randall's comment below is wrong. If
done properly - admittedly a big "if" - crimps have full  (100%) contact
between the wire strands and the connector with minimal or no air gaps at all.
The crimp should deform the wire strands as it deforms the connector leading
to a solid mass of metal in the area of the crimp.

To see what I mean check out this link:
http://www.epp-europe.eu/archive/-/article/32536727/35088948/Different-specif
ications/art_co_INSTANCE_0000/maximized/

Whether you can achieve this level of quality consistently with DIY tools is
another question. For me, investing in the proper tooling for each of the
connectors that I use has been worth every penny. In many cases that's meant
tooling in the low hundreds of dollars rather than $3 or $30 though. But I've
never had a crimp fail yet.

Michael


On Dec 28, 2013, at 8:50 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> With a crimp, you get basically a few lines of contact between the wire
strands and the terminal, a few thousandths wide at best.
> In between are air gaps.  With solder, you get 100% contact, no gaps.
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:23:42 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] test lead connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

for lack of a better term... that's what I need.   Recently in the past I've
had to do some testing of equipment and the only access was thru it's
connector.... the connector was approx 3/8" wide and 3/4" long with 8 pins...
that mated to a similar constructed plug (female)

the test point was inside a piece of equipment with very little room and it
was nearly impossible to get to.  When I tried to hold my test lead on the pin
my hand was blocking my view and it was impossible to get two leads in that
small connector and get both hands in the hole to hold them.

so... I';m looking for some test lead connectors that would resemble a sleeve
(or female end) that would slip over the connector pins much like the mating
connector might... I guess I could buy a matching connector and butcher it up
or build a test cable from it.... but it's probably a one time test and not
worth the time of $$$...

anyone ever seen this type connector ???  know of a source other than homemade
???  I'm not even sure what to call them to do a search on them.

thanks
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.




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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 13:21:28 -0600
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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	<071854D8-15C4-47A9-BE5C-B0F0279E5E1D@me.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In the 60s, while in the Air Force, I attended a soldering school that 
taught us to solder to NASA specs. The problem with soldering wire to 
that level was with the solder wicking up under the insulation, 
basically making the stranded wire a solid wire. We used anti-wicking 
tweezers, which was basically a heat sink that kept the solder near the 
connection, allowing for more flexibility of the wire.

Either a high quality crimper, spot welding, or minimal amounts of 
solder would be my choice, in that order.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake ml

> I won't enter the fray regarding solder or crimping or both - not enough
> experience on my part to be expert. But Randall's comment below is wrong. If
> done properly - admittedly a big "if" - crimps have full  (100%) contact
> between the wire strands and the connector with minimal or no air gaps at all.
> The crimp should deform the wire strands as it deforms the connector leading
> to a solid mass of metal in the area of the crimp.
>
> To see what I mean check out this link:
> http://www.epp-europe.eu/archive/-/article/32536727/35088948/Different-specif
> ications/art_co_INSTANCE_0000/maximized/
>
> Whether you can achieve this level of quality consistently with DIY tools is
> another question. For me, investing in the proper tooling for each of the
> connectors that I use has been worth every penny. In many cases that's meant
> tooling in the low hundreds of dollars rather than $3 or $30 though. But I've
> never had a crimp fail yet.
>
> Michael
>
>
> On Dec 28, 2013, at 8:50 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> With a crimp, you get basically a few lines of contact between the wire
> strands and the terminal, a few thousandths wide at best.
>> In between are air gaps.  With solder, you get 100% contact, no gaps.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 11:38:41 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <7F463D9A29A44A9E8D3F844D3E86DB76@john5043a2d406>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] test lead connectors
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John - You can buy just the pins that go in the connector without the 
connector body.  Typically when making a connector, you connect the wire 
to the pin then insert it in the connector.  A local electronics store 
may have them.

For a quick test without going to the store, consider something that you 
can jam in (but not too hard to mess up the pins).  Some stiff stranded 
wire might.  For small connectors (dishwasher control panel), I used a 
pin (like from a new dress shirt) as a probe and clipped my test lead to 
that.  I've also used segments of a soda can.  You can cut the can with 
ordinary scissors to get a length and width to suit your need.  Use 
caution as the cut edges are sharp. You could crimp some light gauge 
wire in the can segments to make it easier to connect your meter 
probes.  You can also twist a strip of the can around a nail to make a 
sleeve.

The important thing to do here is avoid any short if testing with 
power.  Don't do this for high power like 110 AC or a high current DC 
application like connected to a 12V auto battery.  I would also not do 
this with any sensitive electronics that are powered on.  It should be 
fine for a continuity or resistance test of equipment that is off.

Brian


On 12/29/2013 10:23 AM, John Niolon wrote:
> for lack of a better term... that's what I need.   Recently in the past I've
> had to do some testing of equipment and the only access was thru it's
> connector.... the connector was approx 3/8" wide and 3/4" long with 8 pins...
> that mated to a similar constructed plug (female)
>
> the test point was inside a piece of equipment with very little room and it
> was nearly impossible to get to.  When I tried to hold my test lead on the pin
> my hand was blocking my view and it was impossible to get two leads in that
> small connector and get both hands in the hole to hold them.
>
> so... I';m looking for some test lead connectors that would resemble a sleeve
> (or female end) that would slip over the connector pins much like the mating
> connector might... I guess I could buy a matching connector and butcher it up
> or build a test cable from it.... but it's probably a one time test and not
> worth the time of $$$...
>
> anyone ever seen this type connector ???  know of a source other than homemade
> ???  I'm not even sure what to call them to do a search on them.
>
> thanks
> John
>
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
>
>
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
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>
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 19:47:02 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] test lead connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John,I have a couple of light duty leads that have a small copper wire hook
that allow easy connection to an open wire.I have successfully bent the tip a
little to allow 90 degree operation but don't know if there is enough room
within a cannon plug... Home made small tube may be the best bet.

MB

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] test lead connectors
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:23:42 -0600

for lack of a better term... that's what I need.   Recently in the past I've
had to do some testing of equipment and the only access was thru it's
connector.... the connector was approx 3/8" wide and 3/4" long with 8 pins...
that mated to a similar constructed plug (female)

the test point was inside a piece of equipment with very little room and it
was nearly impossible to get to.  When I tried to hold my test lead on the
pin
my hand was blocking my view and it was impossible to get two leads in that
small connector and get both hands in the hole to hold them.

so... I';m looking for some test lead connectors that would resemble a sleeve
(or female end) that would slip over the connector pins much like the mating
connector might... I guess I could buy a matching connector and butcher it up
or build a test cable from it.... but it's probably a one time test and not
worth the time of $$$...

anyone ever seen this type connector ???  know of a source other than
homemade
???  I'm not even sure what to call them to do a search on them.

thanks
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.




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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 13:19:32 2013
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	<071854D8-15C4-47A9-BE5C-B0F0279E5E1D@me.com>
	<52C07638.7050000@hornesystemstx.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 15:18:04 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think sometimes we might lose sight of the fact that we aren't
driving to the Moon in our cars.

Yes, MilSpec connecting is a critical science, and must be done
exactly as specified.  Yes, it works great under severe circumstances
where lives are at stake.  Yes, sometimes soldering can lead to
problems, and sometimes inadequate crimping can as well.

But, I've done all sorts of automobile wiring connections over the
last 40 years, including twisted wires under black electrical tape,
and the only kind I've had fail was the IDCs that Volkswagen used in a
fuel pump relay recall campaign.  And even then, it was probably less
than 10% failure.

Given a preference, I'd use a $300 crimper to make my connections.
But, I'm too cheap to spend $300 on a tool I'll use rarely -
especially when that task can be carried out quite adequately with a
lesser crimper, solder, and heat-shrink tubing.

Put some thought into the connection, and how it will be used,
protected, and secured, and you'll likely be just fine.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 13:24:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 13:22:55 -0700
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
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To: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/29/2013 12:21 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
> In the 60s, while in the Air Force, I attended a soldering school that 
> taught us to solder to NASA specs. The problem with soldering wire to 
> that level was with the solder wicking up under the insulation, 
> basically making the stranded wire a solid wire. We used anti-wicking 
> tweezers, which was basically a heat sink that kept the solder near 
> the connection, allowing for more flexibility of the wire.
>
> Either a high quality crimper, spot welding, or minimal amounts of 
> solder would be my choice, in that order.
>

When I worked at the big bus company, we had large customers that put 
crimped soldered connections in their specs, and there was no way to 
avoid soldering. Now, on balance, soldering is more likely to provide a 
positive electrical and physical connection--initially. What we found, 
over time, is that vibration (this problem became more acute once the 
industry changed over from six- cylinder 2-stroke diesels to 
four-cylinder four-strokes) would eventually affect the joint pretty 
much no matter how the joint was soldered (because the problem would 
invariably start at the junction between the soldered joint and the 
unsoldered wires), and the fix was to add support and vibration damping 
to as much of the wire and joint as possible.  We ended up using 
adhesive-coated shrink tubing to about two inches behind the terminal 
and extended over as much of the terminal as possible without 
interfering with the electrical connection, with double layers of tubing 
over heavier wires.  This didn't completely end the problem, but it did 
greatly extend the time to failure.

Engine vibration caused no end of troubles--on one model, we identified 
one maximum amplitude vibration behind the front door which over time 
would crack the vertical structural member horizontally, travel through 
the side destination sign and crack the forward vertical member 
horizontally, crack the upper door header vertically, then travel down 
through the a-pillar and crack it horizontally about halfway down. 
Couldn't change the vibration, so the only fixes were fishplates and 
internal bracing in the a-pillar.  And that's nothing compared to the 
havoc wreaked by vibration on military aircraft. Once knew a guy who did 
avionics repair on carrier F-14s and he said it was a losing battle 
trying to keep the avionics running while on a cruise because the 
vibration would cause the connectors to literally crumble, and there 
never were enough spares.

Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
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To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 23:31:19 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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> But Randall's comment below is wrong. If done properly - admittedly a big
"if" - crimps have
>  full  (100%) contact between the wire strands and the connector with
minimal or no air gaps at all.
> The crimp should deform the wire strands as it deforms the connector
leading to a solid mass 
> of metal in the area of the crimp.


Exactly correct.


> Whether you can achieve this level of quality consistently with DIY tools
is another question. For 
> me, investing in the proper tooling for each of the connectors that I use
has been worth every 
> penny. In many cases that's meant tooling in the low hundreds of dollars
rather than $3 or $30 though.

Ignore the cheap tools - the crimp, cut wires, and cut bolts to the proper
length (the cheap tool).

But you can go to Lowes and buy a large pair of wire working pliers for less
than $20 - they cut the wire and have a couple of crimp positions (make sure
you get one that crimps the size crimps you need to use).  The secret is to
not just get the cheap crimpers that squeeze the crimp flat, but get the
type that indents one side into the other - actually make a dent into the
wire (makes the finished crimp slightly "U" shaped.  That works as well as
the several hundred dollar types I've have from various jobs.  

For crimp connections on typical computer type connections, make sure you
get the type that takes the open "U" shaped crimp and curls the "U" over and
into the wire as it squeezes them.  Again, I never had one fail, and as far
as I know the wiring harnesses (all crimped)  I used to make for on-board
weapons control for Navy Destroyers are still working fine.

> But I've never had a crimp fail yet.

Me either.  But I have had soldered and crimped connections fail - actually
the wire near to the crimp.  That was before I learned how to do the MilSpec
stuff - basically crimp only unless there was absolutely no other way.

Tim
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 21:08:18 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
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> Ignore the cheap tools - the crimp, cut wires, and cut bolts 
> to the proper
> length (the cheap tool).

BTW, the referenced web site had a photo of a perfectly crimped connector, with obvious air gaps between the wire strands.  It
doesn't always work.

I also seriously doubt that it is possible to get that kind of deformation, when crimping through the common plastic insulation.  

So, you can go spend $500+ on the fancy crimp machine, and wire, and connectors.  Don't forget that the tool has to be periodically
calibrated and a different tool is required for every combination of wire size and terminal size.

Or use my method with the cheap terminals, cheap tools, and a $50 solder gun.  (All of which can be bought locally on a Saturday
afternoon.)  I've been doing it that way for 30 years, and haven't had a failure yet.

BTW, no one has mentioned what do you do when the wire you have to work with (eg original British wiring harness) is not an AWG wire
size?  Where is your wire-specific crimper then?

Randall
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "ElanS4" <ElanS4@cox.net>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cf0517$fcc2df50$f6489df0$@cox.net> <7h8g1n00T0NyJgq01h8hB5>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 13:16:20 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHOeHePXlRtxxW/WUY67qxnzwUxr5puH7Cw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall wrote:
>
> BTW, the referenced web site had a photo of a perfectly crimped connector,
with obvious air 
> gaps between the wire strands.  It doesn't always work.

Obviously the crimp was too large, but that still doesn't mean that you
don't have a solid mechanical and electrical connection.
Heck, one of my projects for today is to replace the wire and resolder a
connection inside my son's guitar.  It is in a "sealed" environment with no
pulling or yanking on the wire, but the vibrations (he plays very hard)
cracks the solder connection.  I'd use some other type of connection, but
the pots are designed to have solder joints.  I have to make this repair at
least once a year.

> I also seriously doubt that it is possible to get that kind of
deformation, when crimping through the common plastic insulation.  

You don't crimp through the common plastic insulation.  Use crimps with out
the plastic, or remove the plastic from your crimp.  Then slip on some
shrink tubing crimp the wire and shrink the tubing over the crimp.

> So, you can go spend $500+ on the fancy crimp machine, and wire, and
connectors.  Don't forget that the tool has to be periodically 
> calibrated and a different tool is required for every combination of wire
size and terminal size.

I have them, and since I'm not contracted for MilSpec work, they do not need
calibration (I doubt that they would even then).  

But I seldom use them.  I use a pair of $20-30 wire cutter/crimper from
Lowe's it works just fine, crimping and denting in the crimp.  Remember you
DO NOT want the cheap crimpers that just squeeze the crimp flat on each
side.  An example of a good one is item number  Item #: 473138 |  Model #:
TCC9D on Lowes web site.  Notice the "prong" on one side that  punches into
the crimp on one side and the curved place on the other side the crimp gets
crushed into.  For an example of a bad crimper look at item number check
Item #: 214865 |  Model #: 30-433F - it just flattens the crimp.  (I'd
include the links but that's not working on my browser right now.

> Or use my method with the cheap terminals, cheap tools, and a $50 solder
gun.  (All of which can be bought locally on a Saturday
> afternoon.)  I've been doing it that way for 30 years, and haven't had a
failure yet.

Yet is the key word there...  :)

> BTW, no one has mentioned what do you do when the wire you have to work
with (eg original British wiring harness) is 
> not an AWG wire size?  Where is your wire-specific crimper then?

The crimps we are talking about fit a small range of wires.  I'm sure the
British wires fit in there somewhere.  They have for me.  Just use the
smallest crimp that fits over the wire.\

Tim Mullen
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 12:43:20 -0800
Thread-Index: AQHOeHePXlRtxxW/WUY67qxnzwUxr5puH7CwgAAuWVA=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tapping off a crimp connector?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> > Or use my method with the cheap terminals, cheap tools, and 
> a $50 solder
> gun.  (All of which can be bought locally on a Saturday
> > afternoon.)  I've been doing it that way for 30 years, and 
> haven't had a
> failure yet.
> 
> Yet is the key word there...  :)

Ok, you win.  The method that I've seen fail in a matter of months IS better than the one that has never failed in 30 years.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 14:42:17 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 15:58:24 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 12/30/2013 16:17:46, Serialize complete at
	12/30/2013 16:17:46
Subject: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, so while I was looking at high end gun safes, I noticed that they now 
come with a RJ45 passthrough as well as 110v AC inside.  I was told this 
was so you could put a network storage device (NAS) in it to keep your 
data safe as well.

My question is, is there enough air flow in a safe to have a few hard 
drives running in there?  I have a Seagate BlackArmor 4 TB NAS that I want 
to put in the safe.

Is there a certain temperature I need to maintain? Is there an effective 
way to monitor the temp inside the safe?

Thanks in advance.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 15:11:03 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:09:02 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, 30 Dec 2013, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> My question is, is there enough air flow in a safe to have a few hard
> drives running in there?  I have a Seagate BlackArmor 4 TB NAS that I want
> to put in the safe.
>
> Is there a certain temperature I need to maintain? Is there an effective
> way to monitor the temp inside the safe?

    Yes, there's a temperature you need to stay below.  Check the 
documentation from Seagate, it will tell you the environmental conditions 
that the device can tolerate.

    You can buy a network-friendly thermostat with an RJ45 connection.  The 
questions are, though; a) what do you do with the signal once it's outside 
the safe and b) do you then need to add a switch inside the safe ( and 
more heat/power ).  Or you could put a $5 oven thermometer in there, and 
check it from time to time.

    Regarding your first question... an archival device, which is what I 
think you are describing, is not going to generate much heat nor require 
much air for cooling.  Most of the time, it'll be sitting there like a 
rock.  With all that metal (the safe itself) to soak up that heat, I 
think your temperature will stay reasonable.

--
  David Hillman
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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/30/2013 3:58 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, so while I was looking at high end gun safes, I noticed that they now
> come with a RJ45 passthrough as well as 110v AC inside.  I was told this
> was so you could put a network storage device (NAS) in it to keep your
> data safe as well.

Interesting question. I'd guess a safe is one helluv'a thermal 
insulator, so I'm thinking you do not want to put active electronics in 
it. I think current hard drives pull 2 - 10 watts depending on level of 
activity. But I built a media server specifically trying to keep it low 
power, and the dang thing still pulls 66 watts from the wall with a Core 
2 based 34W Celeron and only two drives. With my local utility, rates 
work such that 1W = just under $1/year.

I'm an IT pro and have had to deal with backups for decades. I don't 
really see an individual or family having that much data or need for 
immediate recovery. I segregate my stuff into different directories. The 
critical stuff 7'Zips & ImgBurns onto one DVD. I'd like to backup my 
collection of music ripped from 30 years of CDs, but... other media, 
meh. Can be replaced. Unless you have a ton of family photos or such 
that are irreplaceable.

I'd think some low power "near line" storage like a flash drive, and use 
something to mirror it, like unix rsync or windows SyncToy could work.

> My question is, is there enough air flow in a safe to have a few hard
> drives running in there?  I have a Seagate BlackArmor 4 TB NAS that I want

What are you trying to protect from? Fire? Theft? Any air flow would 
compromise fire protection. Rambling on too long.

-w
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 19:09:58 2013
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	<52C223F3.8000009@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 21:08:10 -0500
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
To: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Best practice is to have your backup off-site. Look at CrashPlan or another
cloud offering. They are cheap and have been quite reliable for me. You
could also look into using Amazon S3 or Glacier storage.

-Peter
On Dec 30, 2013 8:55 PM, "w" <wc5813@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 12/30/2013 3:58 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
>> OK, so while I was looking at high end gun safes, I noticed that they now
>> come with a RJ45 passthrough as well as 110v AC inside.  I was told this
>> was so you could put a network storage device (NAS) in it to keep your
>> data safe as well.
>>
>
> Interesting question. I'd guess a safe is one helluv'a thermal insulator,
> so I'm thinking you do not want to put active electronics in it. I think
> current hard drives pull 2 - 10 watts depending on level of activity. But I
> built a media server specifically trying to keep it low power, and the dang
> thing still pulls 66 watts from the wall with a Core 2 based 34W Celeron
> and only two drives. With my local utility, rates work such that 1W = just
> under $1/year.
>
> I'm an IT pro and have had to deal with backups for decades. I don't
> really see an individual or family having that much data or need for
> immediate recovery. I segregate my stuff into different directories. The
> critical stuff 7'Zips & ImgBurns onto one DVD. I'd like to backup my
> collection of music ripped from 30 years of CDs, but... other media, meh.
> Can be replaced. Unless you have a ton of family photos or such that are
> irreplaceable.
>
> I'd think some low power "near line" storage like a flash drive, and use
> something to mirror it, like unix rsync or windows SyncToy could work.
>
>  My question is, is there enough air flow in a safe to have a few hard
>> drives running in there?  I have a Seagate BlackArmor 4 TB NAS that I want
>>
>
> What are you trying to protect from? Fire? Theft? Any air flow would
> compromise fire protection. Rambling on too long.
>
> -w
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> peterwmurray@gmail.com
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 03:02:17 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
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I was under the impression that late model hard drives have a built in health
monitoring capability.At one time I downloaded some software that allowed you
to see the figures and I believe there were a couple of temp data
points.Whether external drives have that same capability I do not know.

From: eric@megageek.com wrote

Is there a certain temperature I need to maintain? Is there an effective
way to monitor the temp inside the safe?
_______________________________________________

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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20131230.220217.349.0@webmail14.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 19:10:01 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8F1P6dqlYnlIIwSBCv6QHSAqe7tAAAEMtw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Temp - Cooler is better.  I don't know what a safe high temperature is.  I
suspect every degree higher reduces the life by some factor, but I have no
idea how much.  See my earlier post about my server system drive. 

A simple remote thermometer will allow the sensor to be in the safe and the
display outside.  The thinner thermocouple cables "should" be able to handle
the safe door closing on it.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 7:02 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.

I was under the impression that late model hard drives have a built in
health
monitoring capability.At one time I downloaded some software that allowed
you
to see the figures and I believe there were a couple of temp data
points.Whether external drives have that same capability I do not know.

From: eric@megageek.com wrote

Is there a certain temperature I need to maintain? Is there an effective
way to monitor the temp inside the safe?
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 20:11:52 2013
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop-Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF1148BB39.E5083959-ON85257C51.0073BCBF-85257C51.0074DF79@mail.megageek.com><52C223F3.8000009@gmail.com>
	<CAJ8HLP-C4wbBTYpTx5OxwEYzgnxGPrRh4QXpSqcKp=UX0SE4-A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 19:10:01 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8FzTmcsRp7r3a2RLqgnA0qmMo/1wABKIaw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Keep your NAS where it can be kept cool and back the data up to a separate
drive and store it off site.  

I use Windows home server to back up all 5 home computers and hold about 1TB
of other data.  In case of a catastrophic loss, I back up everything to a
2TB hard drive which I keep in a safely deposit box at the bank, updating it
every few weeks to a month. Easy.  

One of the worst things you can do to a hard drive is run it hot all.  It's
a mechanical device.  When I started adding fans to the desktop computers &
in my server, the lifespan went up.  The fans blow directly over the hard
drives from one end.  My system drive has 7 years and 169 days of run time
on it today.  Scary, since it's my most important drive, but it's a great
size for the system disk and it's now been running smoothly in this 3rd
server rendition.  Right now, in my 73F server closet, it's running just
under 80F, same as most of my server drives, although two run up around 85F.

Jack

> On 12/30/2013 3:58 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
>> OK, so while I was looking at high end gun safes, I noticed that they now
>> come with a RJ45 passthrough as well as 110v AC inside.  I was told this
>> was so you could put a network storage device (NAS) in it to keep your
>> data safe as well.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 20:58:53 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing a Network device in a safe.
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> I'm an IT pro and have had to deal with backups for decades. 

Me too, or at least I used to be.  Years ago, I used to back up my work
system (a VAX) onto 8mm digital video tape and carry the backup home with me
every night.  Did a full backup each night, and switched tapes every
morning.  Kept on each week so I could always get close to a point in time
in the past if necessary.  Offsite storage and  system restore in about an
hour.  The other system had to keep the backup tapes in the computer room.
Of course it was a classified computer and you had to enter the room through
two bank vault type of doors.  A full Halon system took care of fire
concerns...  :-)

Now, I back up through a port on my network router to an external 3TB disk.
The router has a built in port to handle such things but it's a USB
connection.

If I wanted to protect that storage, I'd simply back it up to an external
drive USB drive, and put the drive in the safe.  It shouldn't really need to
be operating all the time.

> 
> I don't really see an individual or family having that much data or need
for immediate recovery. 

Yep, I occasionally do a full back up to an external drive, and an automated
nightly backup of the changed/added files to the external drive.

> I'd think some low power "near line" storage like a flash drive, and use
something to mirror it, like 
> unix rsync or windows SyncToy could work.  

Yep, or external USB drives.  ;-)

Tim Mullen
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 18:36:33 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 20:34:35 -0500
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.16 (2007-06-09)
Subject: [Shop-talk] 12V cordless tools?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi.  Does anybody have any experience with 10.8V/12V cordless tools?  Lately
I've become intrigued by 12V lineups from Bosch, Makita and Milwaukee.  In 
particular, Milwaukee's new brushless 12V drill and 1/4" impact driver have 
specs that come pretty close to the larger 18V and 19.2V stuff out there.

Does anyone have any experience with these 12V guys?  


JM
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 21:39:45 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jimmie Mayfield'" <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>,
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 20:38:04 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 12V cordless tools?
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> Hi.  Does anybody have any experience with 10.8V/12V cordless 
> tools? 

Not sure if it helps, but I have an old 12v Ryobi drill that I've been quite happy with.  With the 2-speed gearbox (plus variable
speed trigger), it usually has enough torque for what I want to do.  I still get out the corded Milwaukee for big jobs, but the
cordless will drive 1/4" lag bolts (up to about 1.5" long) into pine.  The lighter weight makes it easier to use in awkward places,
like hanging off a ladder or crawling in the attic.  It was originally 3/8", but I made an adapter so I could mount a 1/2" keyless
chuck on it.  Battery life could be better, but with two packs, I can always keep one of them on the fast charger to be ready when I
need it.

Biggest downside, Ryobi no longer makes that model, so I can't buy batteries at the local "big box" store.  Found some on the
Internet last time, but next time I may have to send the old packs out to be "rebuilt".

Randall
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