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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <jv7d1m0210NyJgq01v7fgp>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20131031194808.04c8b878@cox.net> 
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 18:26:52 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIHWMerN3SSXTGNPFS8aDDSBZtfwQHm3095mZAlsECAAKTIEA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If this is a double post I apologize, but I didn't see it so let's try
again...

Thanks to all for the replies, both on the list and private.  Looks like the
HF air nibbler is the near-unanimous recommendation.  Even if it's a
seldom-used tool, I'll get one as soon as there's a coupon.  And some extra
dies and anvils too.
In a separate post I'll ask for advice on the larger problem, which is that
the HVAC is going to have to be replaced even if the nibbler helps me
squeeze another A/C season or two out of it.
Thanks again!
Karl
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 06:33:01 2013
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2013 08:13:15 -0500
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<6.2.5.6.1.20131031194808.04c8b878@cox.net>
	<001201ced759$d923b420$8b6b1c60$@Ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll say this about a/c repair/replacement:

It's a LOT easier than I thought. If you've got even a smidgen of 
mechanical aptitude AND the ability to plan the purchase, I see no 
reason why that's not a DIY job. The markup on that stuff is INSANE, 
such that I'd consider trying it, and I am horrible at electronics 
(which seems to be the real work in a/c).

Karl, I'd think with a \year to plan that you'd have few issues.

On 11/1/2013 7:26 PM, Karl Vacek wrote:
> If this is a double post I apologize, but I didn't see it so let's try
> again...
>
> Thanks to all for the replies, both on the list and private.  Looks like the
> HF air nibbler is the near-unanimous recommendation.  Even if it's a
> seldom-used tool, I'll get one as soon as there's a coupon.  And some extra
> dies and anvils too.
> In a separate post I'll ask for advice on the larger problem, which is that
> the HVAC is going to have to be replaced even if the nibbler helps me
> squeeze another A/C season or two out of it.
> Thanks again!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 08:53:12 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 15:40:56 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 I took Inch's recommendation and got the Ramsond plasma cutter (wow, 2 day
delivery from Amazon w/free shipping!)  It works off either 220V 20amp or 110
30amp depending on the plug you put on it. I was about to put on a 220V plug
but I realized that I had wired up a dedicated 30A 110 circuit for visiting
RVs and it would actually be more convenient to cut near that outlet.Is there
any reason to go 220 instead of 110 in this case?  All I can figure is the
higher current but since I have a rated circuit it would seem convenience
prevails... Also, any idea why my returns or line feeds go away and my
postings all bunch up?  I don't draft/send them this way. Thanks,Matt
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 09:52:52 2013
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 11:48:00 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question - email formatting
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I use hotmail/outlook via a web browser and it has always done this to my
postings as well.  Never remembered to look into it, but probably something
about the HTML formatting causes this.
I don't see many options in my hotmail that would fix this.  I assume if you
used a non-browser based email client that might fix it.
-PJ

> From: mbarre@juno.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 15:40:56 +0000
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] electrical question
>
>  I took Inch's recommendation and got the Ramsond plasma cutter (wow, 2 day
> delivery from Amazon w/free shipping!)  It works off either 220V 20amp or
110
> 30amp depending on the plug you put on it. I was about to put on a 220V
plug
> but I realized that I had wired up a dedicated 30A 110 circuit for visiting
> RVs and it would actually be more convenient to cut near that outlet.Is
there
> any reason to go 220 instead of 110 in this case?  All I can figure is the
> higher current but since I have a rated circuit it would seem convenience
> prevails... Also, any idea why my returns or line feeds go away and my
> postings all bunch up?  I don't draft/send them this way. Thanks,Matt
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 11:54:44 2013
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References: <20131105.104056.13842.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 13:20:30 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>, Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

How do you get the arc started on that unit? Does it have a pilot arc?

Thanks,
Doug


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

>  I took Inch's recommendation and got the Ramsond plasma cutter (wow, 2 day
> delivery from Amazon w/free shipping!)  It works off either 220V 20amp or
> 110
> 30amp depending on the plug you put on it. I was about to put on a 220V
> plug
> but I realized that I had wired up a dedicated 30A 110 circuit for visiting
> RVs and it would actually be more convenient to cut near that outlet.Is
> there
> any reason to go 220 instead of 110 in this case?  All I can figure is the
> higher current but since I have a rated circuit it would seem convenience
> prevails..
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 12:38:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 19:05:06 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
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---- Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote: 
> Is there
> any reason to go 220 instead of 110 in this case?  

I don't know, but I would check the specifications carefully.  For the MIG welders that are rated to run on either 110v or 220v, there is usually a performance penalty on 110v.  Frequently you can't use the highest output current setting, and the duty cycle is reduced from what it would be on 220v even on lower current settings.

But maybe that wouldn't matter, for what you are doing.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2013 12:17:49 -0800
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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  for my hyphotherm plasma, I can go cut through rustier metal on 220V 
than I can 110V due to higher current output and the big one is that the 
duty cycle is reduced so I can cut longer on 220V. Both of those  are 
fairly minor in the big picture of me going out there and making cuts on 
small pieces of metal.

     mike
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 20:14:20 GMT
To: doug@dougbraun.com
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I dunno - mine is still in the box and I haven't bought a plug yet.  Inch!
can you help us out on this one?  ---------- Original Message ----------
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>, Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 13:20:30 -0500


Hello,

How do you get the arc started on that unit? Does it have a pilot arc?

Thanks,Doug


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
&#65533;I took Inch's recommendation and got the Ramsond plasma cutter (wow, 2
day
delivery from Amazon w/free shipping!) &#65533;It works off either 220V 20amp
or 110
30amp depending on the plug you put on it. I was about to put on a 220V plug
but I realized that I had wired up a dedicated 30A 110 circuit for visiting
RVs and it would actually be more convenient to cut near that outlet.Is there
any reason to go 220 instead of 110 in this case? &#65533;All I can figure is
the
higher current but since I have a rated circuit it would seem convenience
prevails..
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 17:07:39 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 18:34:04 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 11/05/2013 18:33:49, Serialize complete at
	11/05/2013 18:33:49
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
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Matt asks...

> Inch! can you help us out on this one?

I haven't tried mine on 110v yet.  I have 220 outlets all over my shop, so 
I never considered it.  I guess I can try it to see, but I seem to 
remember the guy I spoke with at Ransome stating that it was a small 
performance hit (but nothing major for most of the cutting.)

But I can tell you that my car charges 2 to four times faster on 220.  8>)

If I were you, I would put a 110 plug on it and try the outlet that you 
have available.  You can always change the plug later if it doesn't work 
out.

If there is something you want me to try, just let me know.  I can make a 
220 to 110 pigtail so I can just plug in the unit to a regular outlet.

Thanks.


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 17:35:29 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 20:21:21 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
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Once again the shop list comes through.
Great replies all.
I think most of my use will be thin sheet metal so the convenient 30a/110V
will do but an easy shift to the 220 via a pigtail makes all the sense in the
world.

THanks!
Matt



---------- Original Message ----------
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] electrical question
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 15:09:53 -0500 (EST)

On Tue, 5 Nov 2013, Randall wrote:
> I don't know, but I would check the specifications carefully.  For the
> MIG welders that are rated to run on either 110v or 220v, there is
> usually a performance penalty on 110v.  Frequently you can't use the
> highest output current setting, and the duty cycle is reduced from what
> it would be on 220v even on lower current settings.

    30 amps of 110v provides 3300 watts.  20a of 220v is 33% more, in other
words, better ;)

    Make a pigtail, so you can plug the machine into either place.  I
seriously doubt you will regret this, unless you really know you'll never
need the top end ( and no friends who will ask you to bring it to their
shop to cut something, etc ).   You are probably not going to get more
than 30a output from your 50a cutter on the 110v circuit.  Speaking of
which, it's doubtful you'll 50a under any circumstances.  50a cutters
normally need around 35a x 220v input, which is nearly double the spec
for this model.

--
  David Hillman
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 08:50:15 2013
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	UTC
From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <jv7d1m0210NyJgq01v7fgp>
	<6.2.5.6.1.20131031194808.04c8b878@cox.net>
	<001201ced759$d923b420$8b6b1c60$@Ameritech.net>
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 09:48:04 -0600
Thread-Index: AQIHWMerN3SSXTGNPFS8aDDSBZtfwQHm3095Aar69ekAuZluMpmE87Lg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, installing a forced-air furnace and A/C is no problem at all - and I
agree it's a simple enough job in most cases.  I installed a complete system
(after removing an oil-converted octopus (gravity) furnace in our old house
in 1980.  All new ductwork, etc.  And I'm certified for Freon.  I'm not
concerned about doing the job myself - though whether or not I actually do
this one myself is not at all certain.  I have time in the winter, when
there's no way to remove a furnace for days.  In the nice months I tend to
work 6-7 days a week.

The issues here are more related to the physical limitations of the house's
layout, tight furnace room, almost no access to the Zonolite-contaminated
attic, no basement, and on and on.  When I get into it further, I'll likely
ask lots of questions.

Meanwhile, if anyone here is a current HVAC tech, I'd really appreciate a
post offline to tell me about the state of the art in variable-firing and
DC-fan systems.  Our 142-year-old, (uninsulated balloon frame walls) 2-story
house would benefit from a constant flow of air to avoid stratification and
alleviate some of the drafts I still haven't tracked down.  I last looked
into such units quite a few years ago and at that time they were brand new
and reliability of variable-speed blower motors and controls was
questionable, so I elected to wait a few years.  Ads today give me the
impression that there's much more variability available in firing rates, and
10-year warranties make me believe that DC blower motors must live longer
lives now.

Also, if I can get the condensate pan sealed with POR-15 putty or something
(max temp at the pan is only 125 degrees), I'll hold off for another few
years.

Thanks!
Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Scott
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler

I'll say this about a/c repair/replacement:

It's a LOT easier than I thought. If you've got even a smidgen of mechanical
aptitude AND the ability to plan the purchase, I see no reason why that's
not a DIY job. The markup on that stuff is INSANE, such that I'd consider
trying it, and I am horrible at electronics (which seems to be the real work
in a/c).

Karl, I'd think with a \year to plan that you'd have few issues.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 13:45:19 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 15:44:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
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Any one know of a good one? One where they are willing to help a newbie 
learn and not be jerks about it?

Thanks
tim
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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 10/30/2013 1:55 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> My garage is 24' x 24' with a nice smooth crack-free concrete floor, and
> the house is about 30 years old.  When I bought the house 7 years ago, I
> painted the floor with epoxy (one of those kits form HD).  I did a careful
> job with the prep, including a power-washing and an acid etch, and the job
> looked great for a while, but after a couple of years it started
> blistering, and and now it has random bare spots all over the place.

Wow, missed this one on the list a couple weeks ago. Been wondering the 
same myself.

Ten years ago I laid down "Hard Deck", a two part epoxy after 
*extensive* cleaning and etching of the floor. The stuff is made for 
airport hangars. You have to be gentle with a floor jack on it, and if 
you drop a fairly heavy tool like a breaker bar, it will gouge it. But 
upon close examination the concrete below is usually gouged. Can't ask a 
coating to hold up if the substrate won't.

It's held up a bunch better than some painted floors I've seen, Still, 
I'd like something better. Unfortunately, or for the better, it's so 
durable I think it would be nearly impossible to strip. The first epoxy 
layer soaked in like a stain, the 2nd laid on, and the poly' on top is 
*untouchable* by solvents I've seen rip up other floors. Got a little 
oil spill or brake fluid? Throw some acetone, MEK, brake cleaner, etc on 
it and wipe up. I WILL NOT budge. The company rates it as resistant to 
"skydrol" which is some kind of aviation hydraulic fluid I have not used 
myself, but assume is pretty harsh.

http://www.airtechcoatings.com/galleryhd.html

-w
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 15:28:14 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used skydrol.  I was an aircraft mechanic in a previous life.  That
stuff was nasty.  We had a large spill on the hanger floor one day and
after helping clean it up about half of the rubber soles on my sneakers was
gone.  Supposedly it would not burn even at very high temperatures, but I
never had occasion to test that.


On Mon, Nov 18, 2013 at 3:18 PM, w <wc5813@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 10/30/2013 1:55 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
>
>> My garage is 24' x 24' with a nice smooth crack-free concrete floor, and
>> the house is about 30 years old.  When I bought the house 7 years ago, I
>> painted the floor with epoxy (one of those kits form HD).  I did a careful
>> job with the prep, including a power-washing and an acid etch, and the job
>> looked great for a while, but after a couple of years it started
>> blistering, and and now it has random bare spots all over the place.
>>
>
> Wow, missed this one on the list a couple weeks ago. Been wondering the
> same myself.
>
> Ten years ago I laid down "Hard Deck", a two part epoxy after *extensive*
> cleaning and etching of the floor. The stuff is made for airport hangars.
> You have to be gentle with a floor jack on it, and if you drop a fairly
> heavy tool like a breaker bar, it will gouge it. But upon close examination
> the concrete below is usually gouged. Can't ask a coating to hold up if the
> substrate won't.
>
> It's held up a bunch better than some painted floors I've seen, Still, I'd
> like something better. Unfortunately, or for the better, it's so durable I
> think it would be nearly impossible to strip. The first epoxy layer soaked
> in like a stain, the 2nd laid on, and the poly' on top is *untouchable* by
> solvents I've seen rip up other floors. Got a little oil spill or brake
> fluid? Throw some acetone, MEK, brake cleaner, etc on it and wipe up. I
> WILL NOT budge. The company rates it as resistant to "skydrol" which is
> some kind of aviation hydraulic fluid I have not used myself, but assume is
> pretty harsh.
>
> http://www.airtechcoatings.com/galleryhd.html
>
> -w
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 20:08:48 2013
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9VkEJFCJjKu_pucORBo0RrD++67oiXBFTpUNEBRPFCppw@mail.gmail.com><1383151803.78254.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAOtbU9Us3Q3OmhEs81FHRz+0i_nY7FoFdaUEc5K=L13dJTv3HQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<528A841A.8020707@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 19:01:00 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7ko7/cEmAXSe+JT5qxUG0CBmGeFAALry0A
Subject: [Shop-talk] Epoxy floor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 10/30/2013 1:55 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> My garage is 24' x 24' with a nice smooth crack-free concrete floor, and
> the house is about 30 years old.  When I bought the house 7 years ago, I
> painted the floor with epoxy (one of those kits form HD).  I did a careful
> job with the prep, including a power-washing and an acid etch, and the job
> looked great for a while, but after a couple of years it started
> blistering, and and now it has random bare spots all over the place.

During your wet season duct tape a 2x2 foot square of plastic over one or
more of the blistered areas and see if you get condensation under there
after a few days.  Unless those spots were still a bit oily, moisture might
be your issue.

Jack
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 21:30:29 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net>, Shop Talk List
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Epoxy floor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Third time's the charm;
I had to learn the hard way but the "etch" process is critical:  one can't
just pour and broom around muriatic acid in etching;  what worked for me is
to use a big plastic watering can from the garden store:  make sure *every
square inch of floor* gets contact with *fresh* acid from the sprinkler.
The acid is quickly "killed" by it's reaction with the concrete and becomes
neutralized it seems to me.



On 18 November 2013 21:01, Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net> wrote:

> On 10/30/2013 1:55 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> > My garage is 24' x 24' with a nice smooth crack-free concrete floor, and
> > the house is about 30 years old.  When I bought the house 7 years ago, I
> > painted the floor with epoxy (one of those kits form HD).  I did a
> careful
> > job with the prep, including a power-washing and an acid etch, and the
> job
> > looked great for a while, but after a couple of years it started
> > blistering, and and now it has random bare spots all over the place.
>
> During your wet season duct tape a 2x2 foot square of plastic over one or
> more of the blistered areas and see if you get condensation under there
> after a few days.  Unless those spots were still a bit oily, moisture might
> be your issue.
>
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9VkEJFCJjKu_pucORBo0RrD++67oiXBFTpUNEBRPFCppw@mail.gmail.com><1383151803.78254.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAOtbU9Us3Q3OmhEs81FHRz+0i_nY7FoFdaUEc5K=L13dJTv3HQ@mail.gmail.com><528A841A.8020707@gmail.com><06045B9CE9A44421A144A5A4C874667C@Antec300>
	<CA+7Nz3rm_1KiUULAOgOrdKzCHnPBb3rZyfbPoo2k-Rj_MmgXSg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 20:43:11 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7k17LZk8XhE/e+Ru2131Akm6rVZAACQG3w
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Epoxy floor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The best method is a scarification machine, like a blast track
http://www.tcsdivisions.com/blast-tracking  It will remove everything and
leave nice, open pore concrete for the epoxy bond to.  Muriatic can often
get all the painted steel in the garage rusting, if you dont ventilate well
enough. The problem with a blast track is that for just painting a floor, it
might leave grooves in the concrete; its that tough on the floor.  We used
them when we were troweling on a sand/epoxy mix < inch thick.  That was a
tough floor.



For home use, or small areas, we often used diamond stones on commercial
floor polishers to grind off the surface finished and top layer of concrete.
This is what I would use to prep for paint in my home garage.  It cleans off
all coatings, gets to open pore concrete and smoothes out the concrete at
the same time.



Jack



  _____

From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark [mailto:eltonclark@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 7:30 PM
To: Jack Brooks; Shop Talk List
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Epoxy floor



Third time's the charm;

I had to learn the hard way but the "etch" process is critical:  one can't
just pour and broom around muriatic acid in etching;  what worked for me is
to use a big plastic watering can from the garden store:  make sure every
square inch of floor gets contact with fresh acid from the sprinkler.  The
acid is quickly "killed" by it's reaction with the concrete and becomes
neutralized it seems to me.





On 18 November 2013 21:01, Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net> wrote:

On 10/30/2013 1:55 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> My garage is 24' x 24' with a nice smooth crack-free concrete floor, and
> the house is about 30 years old.  When I bought the house 7 years ago, I
> painted the floor with epoxy (one of those kits form HD).  I did a careful
> job with the prep, including a power-washing and an acid etch, and the job
> looked great for a while, but after a couple of years it started
> blistering, and and now it has random bare spots all over the place.

During your wet season duct tape a 2x2 foot square of plastic over one or
more of the blistered areas and see if you get condensation under there
after a few days.  Unless those spots were still a bit oily, moisture might
be your issue.

Jack
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
<http://www.team.net/forums%0d%0aUnsubscribe/Manage>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 12:45:24 2013
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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 14:17:56 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 11/19/2013 14:17:38, Serialize complete at
	11/19/2013 14:17:38
Subject: [Shop-talk] Quick charger question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a rechargeable flashlight with a 6V6AH/20HR battery.

What size charger should I use on it? (I'm assuming it's 6 volt, but what 
amp rating should I use?)

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 21:35:08 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net, eric@megageek.com
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quick charger question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---- eric@megageek.com wrote: 
> I have a rechargeable flashlight with a 6V6AH/20HR battery.
> 
> What size charger should I use on it? (I'm assuming it's 6 volt, but what 
> amp rating should I use?)

Any idea what battery technology it is?  I'm guessing it's lead-acid AGM.  In which case you really want a 3-stage charger that will supply a "bulk" charge of about 2 amps until the battery voltage reaches about 7.45 volts (ideally corrected for temperature), then hold the voltage there until the charge current drops below about 42ma, then let the voltage drop to 6.9 volts (again corrected for temperature).

But you can pretty much get away with a charger that just holds 7.45 volts (at up to 2 amps) and then unplug it after 8-10 hours.  If you forget and leave it though, it will shorten the battery life.

Randall
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 19:45:58 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Quick charger question and another charger question
 while we're at it.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Minor thread hijack.

I just got a couple of Baofeng UV-5R H/T radios.  (I'm sitting for my 
Technician license Saturday).  They come with Li-Ion batteries which 
seem to last a LONG time.  I also ordered an AA battery tray for them so 
I could use AA batteries in an emergency.  Can the factory charger, 
which is set up to charge Li Ion batteries, also charge NiCads or Nimh 
batteries if I stick the AA battery tray in the charger?

On 11/19/2013 1:35 PM, Randall wrote:
> ---- eric@megageek.com wrote:
>> I have a rechargeable flashlight with a 6V6AH/20HR battery.
>>
>> What size charger should I use on it? (I'm assuming it's 6 volt, but what
>> amp rating should I use?)
> Any idea what battery technology it is?  I'm guessing it's lead-acid AGM.  In which case you really want a 3-stage charger that will supply a "bulk" charge of about 2 amps until the battery voltage reaches about 7.45 volts (ideally corrected for temperature), then hold the voltage there until the charge current drops below about 42ma, then let the voltage drop to 6.9 volts (again corrected for temperature).
>
> But you can pretty much get away with a charger that just holds 7.45 volts (at up to 2 amps) and then unplug it after 8-10 hours.  If you forget and leave it though, it will shorten the battery life.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 12:12:55 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 11:11:30 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cast Iron Repair
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If you have anything (cast iron) that needs repair, Ibd
strongly suggest that you consider bCast Iron Mikeb in
Marysville, WA (north of Seattle).  Hebs been doing this
for years (Ibve seen evidence of him going three layers
deep inside an old engine block, doing the repair, then
coming back out and doing the successive repairs to the
first and second layers).  In one of my cases, I had a
1912 Buick engine block that had earlier been brazed
back together.  The entire side of the block had popped
into nearly a dozen pieces due to freezing.  He took
it all apart, removed all the brazing material and then
welded everything back together.  He finished smooth
then stipples with a power tool to match the original
finish.  It was near impossible to spot any evidence of
the extensive repairs.

The reason for my bring this up as a topic is that economic
times are difficult and many of us here in the NW donbt
want to loose this resource.  If you want to get some
cast iron welding done but think bIbll get around to it
somedayb, then now is that day.  You can contact Mike
at 360-657-7660.  His shop is located at
Cast Iron Repair Specialists
16129 Smokey Point Blvd, Ste A,
Marysville, WA 98271


Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 20:50:18 2013
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Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 22:47:17 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4b11381.2a763.1426cf4be7b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
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Wow.  I was watching for an answer to this.  I was hoping to find one 
as well.  I guess the lack of response is not a very promising 
sign.  Let us know if you find something.  I did find the yahoo group 
called "autobodyrestoration" but it doesn't seem to have much 
activity anymore.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 03:44 PM 11/18/2013, Tim wrote:
>Any one know of a good one? One where they are willing to help a newbie
>learn and not be jerks about it?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 22:51:40 2013
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	<0MWP007P56L9KMF0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2013 00:49:37 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>, Shop-Talk
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
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Yahoo in general doesn't have much activity anymore....

 Try jalopyjournal.com, autobody101.com, Eastwood's forums, or
autobodystore.net's forums.
You might have better luck looking for hot rod or antique restoration
forums rather than generic auto body forums.

Doug



On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 10:47 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>wrote:

> Wow.  I was watching for an answer to this.  I was hoping to find one as
> well.  I guess the lack of response is not a very promising sign.  Let us
> know if you find something.  I did find the yahoo group called
> "autobodyrestoration" but it doesn't seem to have much activity anymore.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
> At 03:44 PM 11/18/2013, Tim wrote:
>
>> Any one know of a good one? One where they are willing to help a newbie
>> learn and not be jerks about it?
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@
> dougbraun.com
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From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: RE: autobody work forum?
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This came to me privately, not to the whole list. I have not yet taken a 
look at it.




Hi Tim,

Try this place out.  I haven't followed it in a while, but the forums
there used to be a good site.

http://autobodystore.com/forum/forum.php
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 13:03:06 2013
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From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi.  I am in the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery charger. $50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I am tired of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery that needs it.  
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark Miller
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 13:41:23 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 20:33:05 GMT
To: markmiller@threeboysfarm.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have both of these and they work well:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326706_200326706
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201  Matt




---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 12:01:28 -0800

Hi.  I am in the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery charger. $50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I am tired of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery that needs it.
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark Miller
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
_______________________________________________

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References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 14:20:01 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: "markmiller@threeboysfarm.com" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>,
	"shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mark,

I have two of these single chargers and a double charger unit that I
use on my motorcycles and cars.  They are not cheap, but have been great to
use for the last five years or so.  I would buy more:
http://www.amazon.com/Pulse-Battery-Charger-Xtreme-100X010/dp/B000O707IO

 
best,

doug
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
________________________________
 From: Mark Miller
<markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday,
November 24, 2013 2:01 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
 

Hi.  I am in
the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery charger.
$50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I am tired
of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery that needs
it.  
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark Miller
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 15:32:58 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 16:27:20 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had this one for a few years and like it ...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200404864_200404864

The only thing I initially found odd when I first got it was the lack of an 
on-off switch. That has turned out to be a non-issue. Hook it up to the 
battery, plug it in, set a couple of buttons to give it clue [it is a 
'smart' charger, not a 'clairvoyant' charger] as to what you want to see in 
the display [Battery %, Voltage, Alternator %], what the battery technology 
is [12v Standard, 12v AGM, 12v Gel Cell, 6v Standard] and the battery size 
[Small, Medium to Large, Engine Start].  It seems to shut the charging 
circuit off at the proper time.

Arvid 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 15:33:51 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 14:28:46 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4b11381.2a763.1426cf4be7b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
	<0MWP007P56L9KMF0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tim - Also check your local public library.  That is where I learned how 
to rebuild an engine.  I read a couple books, mostly about V8s, but it 
gave me the extra background to make sense of the Bentley manual for my TR6.

If you want a serious education on body work, check with a community 
college or vocational center as they may have a course available.

Brian

On 11/22/2013 7:47 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> Wow.  I was watching for an answer to this.  I was hoping to find one 
> as well.  I guess the lack of response is not a very promising sign.  
> Let us know if you find something.  I did find the yahoo group called 
> "autobodyrestoration" but it doesn't seem to have much activity anymore.
>
> -Steve Trovato
> strovato@optonline.net
>
> At 03:44 PM 11/18/2013, Tim wrote:
>> Any one know of a good one? One where they are willing to help a newbie
>> learn and not be jerks about it?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 15:34:16 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:31:47 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: markmiller@threeboysfarm.com, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Schumacher XC-103 like this:

www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XC103-SpeedCharge-Battery-Charger/dp/B004EIBWQ0

I would say it qualifies as pretty good.  It is right in your 
budget.  One criticism is that the "100 Amp Engine Start" feature is 
not realistically able to start an engine with a completely dead 
battery.  As long as you aren't really expecting that, it isn't a big 
deal.  Also, as seems to be the trend with the latest "smart" battery 
chargers, it won't charge a completely dead battery.  It has to sense 
the voltage to turn itself on.  This seems completely crazy to me and 
I did consider this to be a show stopper.  What's the point of a 
battery charger  that can't charge a dead battery?  Then I talked to 
a Schumacher tech support guy who told me that if you press and hold 
both buttons down on the front panel while plugging the unit in, it 
will override the stupid logic and start charging.  This isn't 
documented anywhere.  With this little bit of secret knowledge, this 
became a useful charger again!

I also had a problem with my unit when I tried to charge a 6 Volt car 
battery.  It charged to over 90% and then magically switched from 6V 
to 12V mode and continued to charge as though it was a 12 Volt 
battery!  I sent the charger in for warranty service.  It was over a 
year old at the time.  The unit probably had this problem from day 
one, but this was the first time I tried it on a 6 Volt battery.  I 
got the unit back and it did the exact same thing.  Another round on 
the telephone and they sent me a new unit and paid for shipping the 
old one back.  This all sounds very negative, but ultimately they 
were very helpful and made everything right.  That's more than I can 
say for most companies.  Most people will never encounter a 6 Volt 
battery.  The replacement unit handles them fine.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net


At 03:01 PM 11/24/2013, Mark Miller wrote:
>Hi.  I am in the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
>battery charger. $50-100 or so.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 15:47:03 2013
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: "markmiller@threeboysfarm.com" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>, 
	"shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark - I have a 12A Die Hard charger from Sears that has been very 
reliable. It has a 2A range to top off a battery or I used it for my 
underwater scooter's smaller battery.  It also has an engine start 
setting.  This is helpful when a battery is a little too far discharged, 
but you want to take the car out for a drive.  I do about 5 minutes at 
the 12A setting then switch to the engine start and crank the engine.

Brian

  ________________________________
  From: Mark Miller
<markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday,
November 24, 2013 2:01 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
  

Hi.  I am in
the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery charger.
$50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I am tired
of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery that needs
it.
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark Miller
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 15:49:26 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:45:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Brian. Unfortunately, the program at the local tech school in 
Madison is an eight hour a day/five days a week thing. There is no 
option to just take, say, a welding class or a paint class. It sucks.

tim


On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 4:28 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:

> Tim - Also check your local public library.  That is where I learned 
> how to rebuild an engine.  I read a couple books, mostly about V8s, 
> but it gave me the extra background to make sense of the Bentley 
> manual for my TR6.
>
> If you want a serious education on body work, check with a community 
> college or vocational center as they may have a course available.
>
> Brian
>
> On 11/22/2013 7:47 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
>> Wow.  I was watching for an answer to this.  I was hoping to find one 
>> as well.  I guess the lack of response is not a very promising sign. 
>> Let us know if you find something.  I did find the yahoo group called 
>> "autobodyrestoration" but it doesn't seem to have much activity 
>> anymore.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>>
>> At 03:44 PM 11/18/2013, Tim wrote:
>>> Any one know of a good one? One where they are willing to help a 
>>> newbie
>>> learn and not be jerks about it?
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
References: <20131124.153305.18386.0@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 16:49:03 -0600
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: AQLlGTvNyueq3CKgsxcmvvfCK7AipJgIjRow
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Second that on both sizes of BatteryMinder - I actually have 6 of the
smaller model and one of the large.  Every one of them is in use all winter,
and most of them are in use all summer too.  The way they extend battery
life by desulphation has paid for them.  But really the small ones are
battery maintainers and won't help you start your car today.  Further, if
you have a completely dead battery be aware that computer chargers like
these require a minimum threshold voltage in the battery, and sill not begin
to work if the battery is lower than that.

Therefore, a "plain old" charger can be handy too.  They do not check the
battery voltage or desulphate, but just create DC power.  Schumacher is an
old, well-respected brand.  I'd want at least a 25-amp mode if not a 75-amp
or more "Start" mode.  Even a "Start" mode won't actually start a car
directly (starters draw more than that), but it will get enough charge into
a decent battery within a few minutes to let you start the car.

I suggest that you avoid the "Vector" chargers (now owned by Black &
Decker).  They look pretty but they tend to break quickly - a large
percentage of owner reviews report failures.  Mine died Friday after a few
years of infrequent use, and I'm considering just throwing it out rather
than bothering to fix it.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Matt
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger

I have both of these and they work well:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326706_200326706
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201  Matt




---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 12:01:28 -0800

Hi.  I am in the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery charger. $50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I am tired of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery that needs it.
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark Miller
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4b11381.2a763.1426cf4be7b.Webtop.49@charter.net>
	<0MWP007P56L9KMF0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<52927D9E.8040509@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
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Brian Kemp wrote:
>
> If you want a serious education on body work, check with a community 
> college or vocational center as they may have a course available.

Some years ago a couple of the professors from the U and I took an 
evening body shop class
at a local high school.  First session was in a classroom, this old guy 
sat up front and rambled
on about the shop rules, safety, blah blah blah.  Very dry, boring, we 
were all wondering what
we got ourselves into.

One of the profs with me brought in a fender from his Model A truck.  
After the lecture, which
seemed to go on forever, the gentleman was open to questions.  When Gary 
handed him that
fender, it was quite a transformation - just running his fingers over 
the metal he spouted off
things that he could tell about the piece and what work was needed where 
that were way
beyond our talents.  And he looked much happier doing that than the 
boring old lecture.

It was a good class.

mjb.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
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On 11/24/2013 2:27 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
> I've had this one for a few years and like it ...
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200404864_200404864

I have one of those as well, replaced a Black and Decker (Vector) that 
just magically stopped working one time.

The one thing the Vector had, that this one does not and I miss it, is a 
manually-selectable desulfate cycle.  With this one it won't start the 
desulfate cycle until it tries and fails for a couple hours to charge 
the battery normally.

I know the hard-core battery types laugh at the idea that what these 
chargers do is really 'desulfating' but it does seem to work, the Vector 
had recovered 3-4 batteries for me that would not hold a charge in the 
car including the big group 49 thing that came out of my M5 ~7 years ago 
and, after two passes through the desulfate cycle on the Vector, has 
been my jump-start battery ever since.

John.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
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Brian Kemp wrote:
>
> Mark - I have a 12A Die Hard charger from Sears that has been very
reliable. <...>  It also has an engine start setting.  This 
> is helpful when a battery is a little too far discharged, but you want to
take the car out for a drive.  I do about 5 minutes at 
> the 12A setting then switch to the engine start and crank the engine.

I have two kinds of chargers.  I have a similar Die Hard charger that I've
used for 40+ years.  I works good when a battery is  dead and needs to be
brought up to charge.
Or I use it to bring it up enough that one of my BatteryMINDERS will start
charging it.  Leave that for a few days, and I have a completely charged
battery that works better than before.
The BatteryMINDERS  are used to keep at least two of my cars topped up.  One
is an AGM that sits outside with the battery being at least 10 years old.
The other keeps my garage queen fully charged.  It has its OEM lead acid
battery that is know to go dead in about 7-10 of sitting because of the
alarm drain, etc.  If it's going to be parked for more than two days, it
goes on the BatteryMINDER.

By the way, the BatteryMINDER is pretty much the same as a Battery Tender
Jr. (common cables, etc.) except the BatteryMINDER has the "desulfation"
mode that actually seems to work.

Tim Mullen
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 17:54:16 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 00:50:24 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
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I found the same thing here in Columbus, GA.Called the community college and
was told they don't allow students to take single courses - I would have
enrolled in their auto technology program and their programmed curriculum
would hate prevented me from taking the desired auto body & welding courses
for several semesters...

MRB

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] autobody work forum?
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:45:11 -0500 (EST)

Thanks Brian. Unfortunately, the program at the local tech school in
Madison is an eight hour a day/five days a week thing. There is no
option to just take, say, a welding class or a paint class. It sucks.

tim


On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 4:28 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:

> Tim - Also check your local public library.  That is where I learned
> how to rebuild an engine.  I read a couple books, mostly about V8s,
> but it gave me the extra background to make sense of the Bentley
> manual for my TR6.
>
> If you want a serious education on body work, check with a community
> college or vocational center as they may have a course available.
>
> Brian
>
> On 11/22/2013 7:47 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
>> Wow.  I was watching for an answer to this.  I was hoping to find one
>> as well.  I guess the lack of response is not a very promising sign.
>> Let us know if you find something.  I did find the yahoo group called
>> "autobodyrestoration" but it doesn't seem to have much activity
>> anymore.
>>
>> -Steve Trovato
>> strovato@optonline.net
>>
>> At 03:44 PM 11/18/2013, Tim wrote:
>>> Any one know of a good one? One where they are willing to help a
>>> newbie
>>> learn and not be jerks about it?
>> _______________________________________________
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:04:10 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7pbDxvTS10niiyTYyVnntUMNWxRAADKZNw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
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> I know the hard-core battery types laugh at the idea that what these 
> chargers do is really 'desulfating' but it does seem to work, 

FWIW, I just recovered 2 AGM batteries and a 12v gel pack that were badly sulfated, using a very simple home-brew "desulfator".  I
honestly did not think it would work, but I'm 3 for 3 and working on the 4th as I type.

The "desulfator" is just a single diode (half wave rectifier) and an incandescent light bulb, in series.  The diode supplies
essentially 16ms pulses, while the bulb limits the current.

All of the batteries initially went up to around 60 volts (indicating very high internal resistance and severe sulfation), then
after a few days dropped to well below 12v.  After 3-4 days, I switched to an ordinary unregulated charger for about 10 hours.

Haven't done a real load test yet, but after loading one at about 5 amps for about an hour, the voltage was still around 12.8.

Randall
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:15:34 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
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What size light bulb and diode did you use?  I have a couple of 
batteries that might work on.



On 11/24/2013 5:04 PM, Randall wrote:
>> I know the hard-core battery types laugh at the idea that what these
>> chargers do is really 'desulfating' but it does seem to work,
> FWIW, I just recovered 2 AGM batteries and a 12v gel pack that were badly sulfated, using a very simple home-brew "desulfator".  I
> honestly did not think it would work, but I'm 3 for 3 and working on the 4th as I type.
>
> The "desulfator" is just a single diode (half wave rectifier) and an incandescent light bulb, in series.  The diode supplies
> essentially 16ms pulses, while the bulb limits the current.
>
> All of the batteries initially went up to around 60 volts (indicating very high internal resistance and severe sulfation), then
> after a few days dropped to well below 12v.  After 3-4 days, I switched to an ordinary unregulated charger for about 10 hours.
>
> Haven't done a real load test yet, but after loading one at about 5 amps for about an hour, the voltage was still around 12.8.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave C'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 21:56:34 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
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> What size light bulb and diode did you use?  I have a couple of 
> batteries that might work on.

The diode was a 1N4007, rated 1 amp, 1000 volts.  Probably overkill, just what I had handy.  The bulb is a 40 watt (110 volt), again
just what I happened to have handy.  I think the original article called for a 100 watt bulb.

Randall
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References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 14:57:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got one of these.  NOCO Genius G3500 6V/12V 3.5 Amp Smart Battery Charger
and Maintainer  I've had good luck recharging without overcharging and for
maintaining.  
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWVEKS/ref=ox_ya_os_product
 
Right now
it is about $60 on Amazon.  I paid about $50 on a lightening deal a couple
years ago.  
 
 
Tomorrow morning they've got a deal on the same brand but a
different model.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LX3AXQ/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_6362_3cbba674?pf
_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=center-new-2&pf_rd_r=0V5T33ARQTD0056G
Z5WK&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1673666362
 
 
Randy
 
 
________________________________
 From: Mark Miller
<markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday,
November 24, 2013 2:01 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
  

Hi.  I am
in the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery
charger. $50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I
am tired of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery
that needs it.  
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark
Miller
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 08:38:04 2013
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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 15:36:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
	s=q20121106; t=1385480177;
	bh=ql2QBYRlEoAt4PQpINOdIZNawQsVWftGYvqLSIsxYUM=;
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger and lithium
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a friendly warning from a battery engineer (not me):

Do NOT use a charger with a "de-sulphate" feature on a lithium-ion or lithium-iron battery.  "Float" technology is good for them.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 23:02:26 2013
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References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
	<1385420232.10746.YahooMailNeo@web184704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 21:56:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Amazon has another model on sale on Tuesday at 8pm.

NOCO Genius G7200 7.2 Amp
12V/24V Smart Battery Charger
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWTHP2/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_6362_453c11ad?pf
_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=center-new-2&pf_rd_r=0ANC3FHC34ZEMR5T
5PX0&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1673666362




________________________________
 From:
Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 4:57 PM
Subject:
Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
 


I've got one of these.  NOCO Genius G3500
6V/12V 3.5 Amp Smart Battery Charger and Maintainer  I've had good luck
recharging without overcharging and for maintaining.  
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWVEKS/ref=ox_ya_os_product
 
Right now
it is about $60 on Amazon.  I paid about $50 on a lightening deal a couple
years ago.  
 
 
Tomorrow morning they've got a deal on the same brand but a
different model.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LX3AXQ/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_6362_3cbba674?pf
_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=center-new-2&pf_rd_r=0V5T33ARQTD0056G
Z5WK&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1673666362
 
 
Randy
 
 
From: Mark Miller
<markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday,
November 24, 2013 2:01 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
 

Hi.  I am in
the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
battery charger.
$50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
well.  I am tired
of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
a battery that needs
it.  
What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?

Thanks!

Mark Miller
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 27 05:39:19 2013
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References: <mailman.9.1385319602.2528.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	<4D5F868E39F747F0A60EC3D9026595F3@SusieandMarkPC>
	<1385420232.10746.YahooMailNeo@web184704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1385531793.91685.YahooMailNeo@web184302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 07:37:28 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It's interesting seeing all these compact new battery changers that use
switching power supplies instead of traditional transformers,  I guess that
battery chargers has been one of the last categories of electrical products
to make this change.

Doug


On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 12:56 AM, Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Amazon has another model on sale on Tuesday at 8pm.
>
> NOCO Genius G7200 7.2 Amp
> 12V/24V Smart Battery Charger
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWTHP2/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_6362_453c11ad?pf
>
> _rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=center-new-2&pf_rd_r=0ANC3FHC34ZEMR5T
> 5PX0&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1673666362
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From:
> Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
> <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 4:57 PM
> Subject:
> Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
>
>
>
> I've got one of these.  NOCO Genius G3500
> 6V/12V 3.5 Amp Smart Battery Charger and Maintainer  I've had good luck
> recharging without overcharging and for maintaining.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWVEKS/ref=ox_ya_os_product
>
> Right now
> it is about $60 on Amazon.  I paid about $50 on a lightening deal a couple
> years ago.
>
>
> Tomorrow morning they've got a deal on the same brand but a
> different model.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LX3AXQ/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_6362_3cbba674?pf
>
> _rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=center-new-2&pf_rd_r=0V5T33ARQTD0056G
> Z5WK&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1673666362
>
>
> Randy
>
>
> From: Mark Miller
> <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday,
> November 24, 2013 2:01 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
>
>
> Hi.  I am in
> the market for a pretty good, great in not in the budget, 12V
> battery charger.
> $50-100 or so.  Run of the mill 10A, maybe a lower range as
> well.  I am tired
> of the HF ones that always seem to fail right when I have
> a battery that needs
> it.
> What say ye, o list of near infinite wisdom?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark Miller
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 27 06:23:44 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:21:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Battery charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, that should be Wednesday at 8pm. 

 
Amazon has another model on sale
NOCO Genius G7200 7.2 Amp 12V/24V Smart Battery Charger
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWTHP2/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_6362_453c11ad?pf
_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_s=center-new-2&pf_rd_r=0ANC3FHC34ZEMR5T
5PX0&pf_rd_i=20&pf_rd_p=1673666362
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 20:37:14 2013
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From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> and last year replaced it with a Predator.. it was a perfect bolt up
> replacement .  It's arund 6 hp (although they go by displacement now) and it
>....
> good luck with the HF engines, I don't think you'll be disappointed

Hey Guys, Month old thread but was wondering about the Harbor freight 
small engines myself.

I have an old (probably late 80's) Sears / MTD chipper-shredder with a 
Tecumseh 5hp engine that's not worth saving.

Would one of these H.F. Predator things be a bolt-in replacement?
http://tinyurl.com/pvk8ftk
They have two "6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engines" for 
$100, looks like one has CARB cert'. Got the manual on one and it has 
mounting dimensions, but I haven't torn mine down to measure how close 
it is.

I realize that's a vague question, but thought maybe it was one of those 
things standard acress many manufacturers.

-Thanks, Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 21:16:04 2013
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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:13:38 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: w <wc5813@gmail.com>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52995CEA.7020605@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Please include the list on any replies.  I have  a 1994 Sears 
chipper-shredder with a 5hp B&S industrial plus engine from a yard sale 
that was left with old gas for a long time.  I replaced the fuel lines 
and rebuilt the carb, including replacing the inlet valve/seat and now 
it idles, but does not run well without the choke.   I have brand new 
fuel I'm going to try this weekend as a final option, since I'm using 
California gas and the existing gas is about 6 months old.

I'm interested in the same option.  I'm trying to save the B&S as it has 
parts available, but if I have to do much more to the engine, it might 
be worth switching to the HF Predator for $100 and getting a little 
extra horsepower.  As near as I can tell, my chipper has the same bits 
other than the engine as an 8hp model, so I'm not too concerned about 
anything being overloaded.

One thing I noticed about the Predator I looked at in the store was that 
it didn't have a fuel disconnect.

Brian with lots of trimming to do


On 11/29/2013 7:35 PM, w wrote:
>> and last year replaced it with a Predator.. it was a perfect bolt up
>> replacement .  It's arund 6 hp (although they go by displacement now) 
>> and it
>> ....
>> good luck with the HF engines, I don't think you'll be disappointed
>
> Hey Guys, Month old thread but was wondering about the Harbor freight 
> small engines myself.
>
> I have an old (probably late 80's) Sears / MTD chipper-shredder with a 
> Tecumseh 5hp engine that's not worth saving.
>
> Would one of these H.F. Predator things be a bolt-in replacement?
> http://tinyurl.com/pvk8ftk
> They have two "6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engines" for 
> $100, looks like one has CARB cert'. Got the manual on one and it has 
> mounting dimensions, but I haven't torn mine down to measure how close 
> it is.
>
> I realize that's a vague question, but thought maybe it was one of 
> those things standard acress many manufacturers.
>
> -Thanks, Wayne
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 21:49:59 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Brian Kemp'" <bk13@earthlink.net>, "'Shop Talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:47:57 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7tgqPNV5trmmTbQJOxEJ6zTLSo1gABGpGA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I replaced the 
> fuel lines 
> and rebuilt the carb, including replacing the inlet 
> valve/seat and now 
> it idles, but does not run well without the choke. 

Did you actually poke something through all the passages, or just soak them in cleaner?  Last time I had that problem (a vertical
shaft mower that had been left full of fuel), the main jet had some kind of hard deposit that none of my solvents would touch.  I
had to literally chip it out with a dental pick.  Ran fine after that.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 22:32:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:29:58 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>,  'Shop Talk List' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <53.C0.09582.DFD69925@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall,

I sprayed carb cleaner on everything, used an acid brush, a pipe 
cleaner, or the wire from a twist tie for the little passages.  I then 
again sprayed the carb cleaner and it came out the other ends of the 
various passages.  While things were gummed up, I did not find any 
really hard deposits that the carb cleaner couldn't soften, so I expect 
I have everything.  I actually rebuilt it 1.5 times because the first 
time I didn't take apart the float to remove the inlet valve seat.  It 
his some crud and was swollen, so I had to replace it then the engine 
started and ran.  The idle mixture valve seems set right and is the same 
number of turns out as the demo videos on youtube and there is not much 
to mess up.

The nice thing about this style carb is that it is very simple.  I hope 
some fresh gas will make the difference.

Brian


On 11/29/2013 8:47 PM, Randall wrote:
>   
>
>> I replaced the
>> fuel lines
>> and rebuilt the carb, including replacing the inlet
>> valve/seat and now
>> it idles, but does not run well without the choke.
> Did you actually poke something through all the passages, or just soak them in cleaner?  Last time I had that problem (a vertical
> shaft mower that had been left full of fuel), the main jet had some kind of hard deposit that none of my solvents would touch.  I
> had to literally chip it out with a dental pick.  Ran fine after that.
>
> Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 09:01:19 2013
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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 09:59:22 -0600
From: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
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	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <52995CEA.7020605@gmail.com>
  <529965F2.6090708@earthlink.net>
	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you replace the rubber vacuum operated "fuel pump",  I spent weeks 
trying to get one to run for lack of a $3 rubber part.  Look at a Briggs 
manual and you will find it as part of the carb.

Mark
Nashville


On 11/29/2013 10:13 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> Please include the list on any replies.  I have  a 1994 Sears 
> chipper-shredder with a 5hp B&S industrial plus engine from a yard 
> sale that was left with old gas for a long time.  I replaced the fuel 
> lines and rebuilt the carb, including replacing the inlet valve/seat 
> and now it idles, but does not run well without the choke.   I have 
> brand new fuel I'm going to try this weekend as a final option, since 
> I'm using California gas and the existing gas is about 6 months old.
>
> I'm interested in the same option.  I'm trying to save the B&S as it 
> has parts available, but if I have to do much more to the engine, it 
> might be worth switching to the HF Predator for $100 and getting a 
> little extra horsepower.  As near as I can tell, my chipper has the 
> same bits other than the engine as an 8hp model, so I'm not too 
> concerned about anything being overloaded.
>
> One thing I noticed about the Predator I looked at in the store was 
> that it didn't have a fuel disconnect.
>
> Brian with lots of trimming to do
>
>
> On 11/29/2013 7:35 PM, w wrote:
>>> and last year replaced it with a Predator.. it was a perfect bolt up
>>> replacement .  It's arund 6 hp (although they go by displacement 
>>> now) and it
>>> ....
>>> good luck with the HF engines, I don't think you'll be disappointed
>>
>> Hey Guys, Month old thread but was wondering about the Harbor freight 
>> small engines myself.
>>
>> I have an old (probably late 80's) Sears / MTD chipper-shredder with 
>> a Tecumseh 5hp engine that's not worth saving.
>>
>> Would one of these H.F. Predator things be a bolt-in replacement?
>> http://tinyurl.com/pvk8ftk
>> They have two "6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engines" for 
>> $100, looks like one has CARB cert'. Got the manual on one and it has 
>> mounting dimensions, but I haven't torn mine down to measure how 
>> close it is.
>>
>> I realize that's a vague question, but thought maybe it was one of 
>> those things standard acress many manufacturers.
>>
>> -Thanks, Wayne
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<529965F2.6090708@earthlink.net> <529A0B5A.1020408@nashvilletn.org>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 08:47:40 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>, Shop Talk List
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys,

I know that B&S carbs are very simple devices and should be easy to
repair, but how much could a replacement carb cost in comparison to replacing
the engine?  Here is a new one for $25 (probably not the one you need, but it
gives an idea):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/230961079704?lpid=82


With the
advent of synthetic oil, it is very hard to wear out one of these engines if
the oil is changed yearly and the air filter is in place and tight.

It also
would be nice to have a complete, new carb on hand for comparison.  It
probably also would be fitted with seals that are designed for alcohol laden
gasoline.  In the spirit of "shop talk,"I think I first might try putting in a
gas shut-off valve and a new carb.
  
best,

doug
________________
'72 BSA
B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV
550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R



________________________________
 From: Mark
<mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Saturday, November 30, 2013 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator
engines
 

Did you replace the rubber vacuum operated "fuel pump",  I spent
weeks trying to get one to run for lack of a $3 rubber part.  Look at a Briggs
manual and you will find it as part of the carb.

Mark
Nashville


On
11/29/2013 10:13 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> Please include the list on any
replies.  I have  a 1994 Sears chipper-shredder with a 5hp B&S industrial plus
engine from a yard sale that was left with old gas for a long time.  I
replaced the fuel lines and rebuilt the carb, including replacing the inlet
valve/seat and now it idles, but does not run well without the choke.   I have
brand new fuel I'm going to try this weekend as a final option, since I'm
using California gas and the existing gas is about 6 months old.
> 
> I'm
interested in the same option.  I'm trying to save the B&S as it has parts
available, but if I have to do much more to the engine, it might be worth
switching to the HF Predator for $100 and getting a little extra horsepower. 
As near as I can tell, my chipper has the same bits other than the engine as
an 8hp model, so I'm not too concerned about anything being overloaded.
> 
>
One thing I noticed about the Predator I looked at in the store was that it
didn't have a fuel disconnect.
> 
> Brian with lots of trimming to do
> 
> 
>
On 11/29/2013 7:35 PM, w wrote:
>>> and last year replaced it with a
Predator.. it was a perfect bolt up
>>> replacement .  It's arund 6 hp
(although they go by displacement now) and it
>>> ....
>>> good luck with the
HF engines, I don't think you'll be disappointed
>> 
>> Hey Guys, Month old
thread but was wondering about the Harbor freight small engines myself.
>> 
>>
I have an old (probably late 80's) Sears / MTD chipper-shredder with a
Tecumseh 5hp engine that's not worth saving.
>> 
>> Would one of these H.F.
Predator things be a bolt-in replacement?
>> http://tinyurl.com/pvk8ftk
>>
They have two "6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engines" for $100,
looks like one has CARB cert'. Got the manual on one and it has mounting
dimensions, but I haven't torn mine down to measure how close it is.
>> 
>> I
realize that's a vague question, but thought maybe it was one of those things
standard acress many manufacturers.
>> 
>> -Thanks, Wayne
>>
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 11:33:57 2013
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>,  Shop Talk List
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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	<529965F2.6090708@earthlink.net> <529A0B5A.1020408@nashvilletn.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug - Thanks for the reference.  Unfortunately my carb, B&S 495652 is 
discontinued, and the best price so far is $46 plus shipping.  There may 
be a replacement, but http://www.briggsandstratton.com doesn't even 
recognize their own part number.  It has been thoroughly cleaned, but 
the gas was old and is the special California formulation that makes for 
lower emissions (and less energy content).  I have new gas to try, but I 
also have kids with lots of activities and a job that gets in the way.

It had a shutoff valve that had the rubber all dissolved - plugged till 
I used carb cleaner, then free flowing.  I have a replacement for $4 to 
install.

Brian



On 11/30/2013 8:47 AM, old dirtbeard wrote:
> Guys,
>
> I know that B&S carbs are very simple devices and should be easy to
> repair, but how much could a replacement carb cost in comparison to replacing
> the engine?  Here is a new one for $25 (probably not the one you need, but it
> gives an idea):
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/230961079704?lpid=82
>
>
> With the
> advent of synthetic oil, it is very hard to wear out one of these engines if
> the oil is changed yearly and the air filter is in place and tight.
>
> It also
> would be nice to have a complete, new carb on hand for comparison.  It
> probably also would be fitted with seals that are designed for alcohol laden
> gasoline.  In the spirit of "shop talk,"I think I first might try putting in a
> gas shut-off valve and a new carb.
>
> best,
>
> doug
> ________________
> '72 BSA
> B50SS
> '74 Moto Guzzi 850T
>
> '01 HD XHL 883
> '03 GMC Cargo Van
> '07 Aprilia SXV
> 550
> '13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

