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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 08:57:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] powder coating two piece wheels
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have two sets of two piece EMPIs in my SHOP. Both are rough enough 
that they need work, both sanding and painting or, preferably, powder 
coated. What I am wondering is if there are any dangers to the two parts 
rims from the cooking process? Or will the shop doing the work know if 
and about any issues and be able to deal with it?

Thanks!
tim
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From: Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Compressor Leak & Repair
Thread-Index: AQHOwEWLiPZw1MauzEmxUltF71tc1Q==
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 14:33:36 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Compressor Leak & Repair
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I have a 5hp industrial compressor with an 80 gallon tank that developed a
pinhole leak on the bottom (horizontal leak).  The tank has an automatic drain
that cycles each time the compressor comes on; however, I don't use it much
and residual moisture has probably rusted through on the bottom.

I thought about welding a plate across the entire bottom since I suspect other
leaks will appear over time. I would like to keep it if possible since the
compressor is still good.

Anyone have any success in repairing a compressor tank?

Gil
Nashville
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  3 08:41:13 2013
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To: "Gil Fuqua" <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>,"Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "old dirtbeard" <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 14:38:37 +0000
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Compressor Leak & Repair
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Gill,

It does not take much to fix it. Just a sheet metal screw (might want to frill the hole to size) with a dollop of gasket sealer ought to keep it sealed for a very long time. 

Best,

Doug (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 14:33:36 
To: Shop Talk<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Compressor Leak & Repair

I have a 5hp industrial compressor with an 80 gallon tank that developed a
pinhole leak on the bottom (horizontal leak).  The tank has an automatic drain
that cycles each time the compressor comes on; however, I don't use it much
and residual moisture has probably rusted through on the bottom.

I thought about welding a plate across the entire bottom since I suspect other
leaks will appear over time. I would like to keep it if possible since the
compressor is still good.

Anyone have any success in repairing a compressor tank?

Gil
Nashville
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 11:04:39 -0400
To: Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Compressor Leak & Repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I set out to do exactly what you are describing. After cutting into the tank
to assess how far the damage propagated out, I found that all I needed was a
very small patch. It has been working fine.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 3, 2013, at 10:33 AM, Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com> wrote:

> I have a 5hp industrial compressor with an 80 gallon tank that developed a
> pinhole leak on the bottom (horizontal leak).  The tank has an automatic
drain
> that cycles each time the compressor comes on; however, I don't use it much
> and residual moisture has probably rusted through on the bottom.
>
> I thought about welding a plate across the entire bottom since I suspect
other
> leaks will appear over time. I would like to keep it if possible since the
> compressor is still good.
>
> Anyone have any success in repairing a compressor tank?
>
> Gil
> Nashville
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas@snet.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  3 22:17:47 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 21:16:10 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHOwEWLiPZw1MauzEmxUltF71tc1ZnjDjOw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Compressor Leak & Repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Anyone have any success in repairing a compressor tank?

I tried with my little 20 gallon one, but with only limited success.  In retrospect, I think the problem is that the tank flexes a
bit every time the pressure changes, and the area weakened with rust will either flex more where you don't reinforce it, or less
where you do.  So you are pretty much guaranteed to eventually get a crack right next to your repair.  After the third time, I gave
up.  Found a much better compressor (80 gallon, two stage, etc) for $500 on Craigslist and gave the old one away.

There is also the safety aspect; there is a lot of energy stored in that tank and a tank failure has the potential for turning into
a shrapnel bomb.

I used brazing for the repairs, in hopes of not creating a heat-affected zone.  The braze seemed to hold fine, the new leaks were
always next to the braze rather than through it.

Randall
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 02:57:40 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Chev Suburban?
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban K2500.
Where is the OBDII port?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Hyundai Veracruz
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My daughter has a Hyundai Veracruz.  Does anyone know where to look for the OBD II port?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 10 23:06:19 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 00:09:21 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: pethier@comcast.net, shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <41.75.22463.5014E425@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Chev Suburban?
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I have a 2005 K1500 Suburban, and mine is just under the dash, left 
of the steering wheel.  If I leave my reader in and go to put on the 
parking brake, I usually hit the reader with my foot and almost break 
it.  If that's where yours is, try not to do that!

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net


At 10:57 PM 10/10/2013, pethier@comcast.net wrote:
>I have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban K2500.
>Where is the OBDII port?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 10 23:12:05 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2013 23:38:29 -0500
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Chev Suburban?
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Put in the info here and it shows up:
  http://www.carmd.com/70.6/Article/FIND-MY-CAR%27S-CONNECTOR

Pretty cool.

 Lee

> I have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban K2500.
> Where is the OBDII port?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 10 23:34:35 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2013 22:42:27 -0600
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2049533596.1984310.1381461107484.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Hyundai Veracruz
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Start looking on the left side of the steering column just below the 
bottom edge of the dash.
That's the standard location.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 07:41:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 13:39:09 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com>
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Chev Suburban?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's really great, Lee!

It agrees with Steven's report, and even has a picture.

I have looked up my daughter's Vericruze on already.

It does not have a listing for my Elise, but I know it is at Position 8.  I sent a note to CarMD telling them that.

Thanks to everyone!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
> To: pethier@comcast.net
> Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2013 11:38:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Chev Suburban?
> Put in the info here and it shows up:
> http://www.carmd.com/70.6/Article/FIND-MY-CAR%27S-CONNECTOR
> 
> Pretty cool.
> 
> Lee
> 
> > I have a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban K2500.
> > Where is the OBDII port?
> >
> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 07:42:37 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 13:40:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Hyundai Veracruz
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Thanks, Mark.

I found it at

http://www.carmd.com/70.6/Article/FIND-MY-CAR%27S-CONNECTOR


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2013 11:42:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OBD II location on Hyundai Veracruz
> Start looking on the left side of the steering column just below the
> bottom edge of the dash.
> That's the standard location.
> 
> mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 15:00:53 -0500
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a spare transmission (manual) which was recently rebuilt that I will
be hopefully .storing for a long time.  The Manual calls for the use of non
detergent 30 Weight motor oil
I'm worried that over time the oil will all settle at the bottom of the case
and the gear teeth might suffer corrosion.
Any good tips for long term storage of a transmission?

Bob
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 14:33:19 2013
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References: <C0DE20F7-32C8-4606-9852-8E1BC735FE30@me.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:32:58 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Cc: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Put it in the attic, not the basement!  (Assuming you have one.)
Condensation is your worst enemy.

Doug


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com> wrote:

> I've got a spare transmission (manual) which was recently rebuilt that I
> will
> be hopefully .storing for a long time.  The Manual calls for the use of non
> detergent 30 Weight motor oil
> I'm worried that over time the oil will all settle at the bottom of the
> case
> and the gear teeth might suffer corrosion.
> Any good tips for long term storage of a transmission?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:45:10 -0400
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Lay it on its side so the the filler is on top, then overfill?

On 10/11/2013 4:00 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I've got a spare transmission (manual) which was recently rebuilt that I will
> be hopefully .storing for a long time.  The Manual calls for the use of non
> detergent 30 Weight motor oil
> I'm worried that over time the oil will all settle at the bottom of the case
> and the gear teeth might suffer corrosion.
> Any good tips for long term storage of a transmission?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 15:11:23 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 17:05:01 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>, Shop-talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <C0DE20F7-32C8-4606-9852-8E1BC735FE30@me.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I was told by a transmission rebuilder that the best thing to do is 
to overfill it.  Fill it with as much lube as you can.  Then put a 
big tag on it so you or the next guy knows to deal with it 
later.  Can't think of much better protection than being submerged in oil.

-Steven Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 04:00 PM 10/11/2013, Robert nogueira wrote:
>I've got a spare transmission (manual) which was recently rebuilt that I will
>be hopefully .storing for a long time.  The Manual calls for the use of non
>detergent 30 Weight motor oil
>I'm worried that over time the oil will all settle at the bottom of the case
>and the gear teeth might suffer corrosion.
>Any good tips for long term storage of a transmission?
>
>Bob
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 15:14:25 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 17:14:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think I've read that you can spin it manually every so often and that 
will help keep the gears oiled.


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 3:00 PM, Robert nogueira wrote:

> I've got a spare transmission (manual) which was recently rebuilt that 
> I will
> be hopefully .storing for a long time.  The Manual calls for the use 
> of non
> detergent 30 Weight motor oil
> I'm worried that over time the oil will all settle at the bottom of 
> the case
> and the gear teeth might suffer corrosion.
> Any good tips for long term storage of a transmission?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 15:19:39 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 17:17:27 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2663db8.48da4.141a95e8450.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I guess that would work, but how long is "long term" and how 
convenient is the storage location?  And of course, how good is your memory?

At 05:14 PM 10/11/2013, Tim wrote:
>I think I've read that you can spin it manually every so often and 
>that will help keep the gears oiled.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 18:18:28 2013
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	UTC
From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <C0DE20F7-32C8-4606-9852-8E1BC735FE30@me.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 17:17:54 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Gv5kaBrsoMleeSfat92BE4m0aNQAID9sg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a spare TR3 block and a few trannies.  I spin each of them for a few
minutes every few years.  I have not looked inside for at least 12 years,
but they all continue to spin freely.  

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert nogueira
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 1:01 PM
To: Shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission

I've got a spare transmission (manual) which was recently rebuilt that I
will
be hopefully .storing for a long time.  The Manual calls for the use of non
detergent 30 Weight motor oil
I'm worried that over time the oil will all settle at the bottom of the case
and the gear teeth might suffer corrosion.
Any good tips for long term storage of a transmission?

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 18:28:46 2013
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Long term storage of a transmission
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On Oct 11, 2013, at 4:45 PM, L.T.C. Davies wrote:

> Lay it on its side so the the filler is on top, then overfill?
>

This would work (take care oil won't leak out the breather), as would sealing
it in a bag with a container of anhydrous silica ("do not eat") large enough
to absorb all moisture for your storage term.

jim
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 13:13:31 -0700
From: Badger Mountain Motorworks <badgermt@cableone.net>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 15 14:53:10 2013
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 16:52:29 -0400
To: Badger Mountain Motorworks <badgermt@cableone.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think there was supposed to be more here.

Were you thinking about something like this? They're not "light bulbs" -
they are efficient heaters with waste light!

http://heatball.de/en/

-Peter


On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 4:13 PM, Badger Mountain Motorworks <
badgermt@cableone.net> wrote:
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
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It this what you're thinking of?  Many years ago, when I was messing about 
in boats, I'd see these used as damp chasers.

http://www.processheating.com/index.php?page=Coneheater2

Bob Kegel
Aberdeen, WA 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 07:59:32 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Boy, that thing is dangerous!

Doug


On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 7:56 PM, Bob Kegel <bobkegel@comcast.net> wrote:

> It this what you're thinking of?  Many years ago, when I was messing about
> in boats, I'd see these used as damp chasers.
>
> http://www.processheating.com/**index.php?page=Coneheater2<http://www.processheating.com/index.php?page=Coneheater2>
>
> Bob Kegel
> Aberdeen, WA ______________________________**_________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 17:26:43 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
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----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Braun" <doug@dougbraun.com>
> To: "Shop-Talk" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 6:59:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
> Boy, that thing is dangerous!
>
> Doug

You bet!

"Warning b these heaters are electrically live and at temperatures in excess
of 1000 degrees F. Danger of electrical shock and burning is present. They are
only for use in properly engineered systems with adequate safety precautions
taken."

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org


>
>
> On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 7:56 PM, Bob Kegel <bobkegel@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> > It this what you're thinking of? Many years ago, when I was messing
> > about
> > in boats, I'd see these used as damp chasers.
> >
> >
http://www.processheating.com/**index.php?page=Coneheater2<http://www.process
heating.com/index.php?page=Coneheater2>
> >
> > Bob Kegel
> > Aberdeen, WA ______________________________**_________________
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 11:33:50 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 13:06:41 +0100
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
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Peter Murray wrote:
> I think there was supposed to be more here.
>
> Were you thinking about something like this? They're not "light bulbs" -
> they are efficient heaters with waste light!
>
> http://heatball.de/en/
>
>


http://heatball.de/en/thesen.php

Discuss.

As a Brit I'm all in favour of No 9...

Nick Brearley
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 13:44:13 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 19:32:50 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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> http://heatball.de/en/thesen.php
> 
> Discuss.

Have to wait until it's closer to April 1.  I can't take any of that seriously.

"Light bulbs" have been being used as smallish heat sources for at least the past 60 years that I know of.  My grandfather had a chicken egg incubator that used light bulbs for heat.  When I was a kid, we used "heat lamps" to thaw out frozen pipes and keep engine blocks from freezing (when they didn't have enough antifreeze), or just to make the engines easier to start in the morning.  50 years ago, the Hasbro "Easy Bake Oven" was a big hit, and used an ordinary light bulb as a heat source.

I even have a built-in heat lamp in my 1960 bathroom.

But electricity continues to be more expensive (per Btu) than any sort of fossil fuel (at least here in the US, perhaps it's different in the UK).  And light bulbs don't put out very much heat (even a 250 watt bulb is less than 1000 Btu/hr).  Nor are they any more efficient than any other resistance heater.  Having the infrared is nice sometimes (feels good on your skin after a shower), but there are other ways to generate that without using an expensive and fragile glass bulb. 

And FWIW, CFLs are just as efficient, in terms of heat output per watt.  Whatever light they produce gets turned back into heat, eventually, and still accounts for a relatively small fraction of the input power.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 17 03:36:39 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Light Bulbs for Heating Purposes
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Randall wrote:
>> http://heatball.de/en/thesen.php
>>
>> Discuss.
> Have to wait until it's closer to April 1.  I can't take any of that seriously.
>
> "Light bulbs" have been being used as smallish heat sources for at least the past 60 years that I know of.  My grandfather had a chicken egg incubator that used light bulbs for heat.  When I was a kid, we used "heat lamps" to thaw out frozen pipes and keep engine blocks from freezing (when they didn't have enough antifreeze), or just to make the engines easier to start in the morning.  50 years ago, the Hasbro "Easy Bake Oven" was a big hit, and used an ordinary light bulb as a heat source.
>
> I even have a built-in heat lamp in my 1960 bathroom.
>
> But electricity continues to be more expensive (per Btu) than any sort of fossil fuel (at least here in the US, perhaps it's different in the UK).  And light bulbs don't put out very much heat (even a 250 watt bulb is less than 1000 Btu/hr).  Nor are they any more efficient than any other resistance heater.  Having the infrared is nice sometimes (feels good on your skin after a shower), but there are other ways to generate that without using an expensive and fragile glass bulb.
>
> And FWIW, CFLs are just as efficient, in terms of heat output per watt.  Whatever light they produce gets turned back into heat, eventually, and still accounts for a relatively small fraction of the input power.

If I'm reading them right Heatball's theses are a combination of 
Teutonic humour and scratching some itches caused by recent EU 
legislation banning the sale of incandescent light bulbs.

The Passivhaus movement has quite a following in Germany. As the website 
points out, in such a house an inmcandescent bulb has a useful byproduct 
in heat. Hence the offering of a heat source to augment the reduced heat 
supply from CFLs.

Regarding comparative heating energy costs. As in the US, electric 
heating is more expensive than gas or oil in the UK. Fracking  is a 
subject of much debate here at present. Living on a small densely 
populated island many people are not too keen on the idea of having 
their houses rearranged by subsidence caused by fracking. Even if it 
goes ahead I think our natural gas prices will still be governed by 
world prices, unlike the US where it appears that the consumer has 
benefited significantly from fracked gas production.

Nick Brearley
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 21 21:23:21 2013
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Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
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Anyone have any experience with/opinions on/etc the Harbor Freight 
Predator engines?  I believe they are more or less a clone of the Honda 
GX series of engines, but some looking around the web seems to indicate 
that the older HF engines can use Honda parts but current engines can 
not.  The clone engines are apparently very popular with karters and for 
building mini bikes.

The reason I'm asking is that I have a small engine repair class at 
school  where the students break down B&S OHV engines, identify the 
parts, reassemble them and then get them to start.  I don't have the 
model number handy but they are a basic OHV engine with a slanted 
crankcase and are a lot like the Honda (and HF) engines. The engines we 
have are four or five years old, and get disassembled six or seven times 
a year, and they're getting kind of worn out. New B&S engines are around 
$300, but I think I can get the HF engines for under $100 with a 25% off 
coupon.  I am probably going to buy one later this week for a test run, 
but I thought I would run it past you folks, too.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5265EE4C.5070009@frontier.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 07:11:08 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

HI Dave

I've got a 30 year old 26" Yazoo big wheel mower (bush hog) I've been using 
as a trim mower.Bought it used in the 80's when it had a BS industrial iron 
sleeve engine...replaced the engine one time back around 2000 with a Briggs 
and last year replaced it with a Predator.. it was a perfect bolt up 
replacement .  It's arund 6 hp (although they go by displacement now) and it 
started 2nd pull when installed and had never done any less...  I do shut 
off fuel at end of each day and run it dry but 2nd pull always starts it... 
only maintenance has been oil change at beginning of seasons and air 
filters... The only fault I find is the low oil sensor will shut the engine 
down going across a medium slope.  I disconnected it .  I'm fanatical about 
oil checking and air cleaner cleaning (every time I use it)  so low oil 
usually isn't a problem for me

I'm very pleased with it... It's plenty strong and I have yet to put it in 
anything that would lug the engine down at all...  it was around 90 bucks 
with coupons and warranty... I figured for a hundred bucks I was far ahead 
if  it only lasted one year.  My problem is finding deck parts now.  it has 
a belt/chain drive system and I've got through two junk mowers of parts... 
But it's such a good mower I just can't retire t.

good luck with the HF engines, I don't think you'll be disappointed

later
John


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 10:17 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] HF Predator engines


> Anyone have any experience with/opinions on/etc the Harbor Freight 
> Predator engines?  I believe they are more or less a clone of the Honda GX 
> series of engines, but some looking around the web seems to indicate that 
> the older HF engines can use Honda parts but current engines can not.  The 
> clone engines are apparently very popular with karters and for building 
> mini bikes.
>
> The reason I'm asking is that I have a small engine repair class at school 
> where the students break down B&S OHV engines, identify the parts, 
> reassemble them and then get them to start.  I don't have the model number 
> handy but they are a basic OHV engine with a slanted crankcase and are a 
> lot like the Honda (and HF) engines. The engines we have are four or five 
> years old, and get disassembled six or seven times a year, and they're 
> getting kind of worn out. New B&S engines are around $300, but I think I 
> can get the HF engines for under $100 with a 25% off coupon.  I am 
> probably going to buy one later this week for a test run, but I thought I 
> would run it past you folks, too.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
_______________________________________________

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 06:37:20 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] testing coaxial cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I know there are some hams or experienced RF people on here so here's the
question for them.  I'm getting my old ham gear (only VHF and UHF) and getting
some emergency communication ability back.  I've had several rolls of RG-8
stored in the loft of the garage for years.

Wondering if it's deteriorated or degraded.  I hooked up a test as follows
xmitter to SWR bridge to coax test piece to dummy load ... saw full xmitter
power on bridge (of course)  and zero reflected

Then  xmitter to coax test piece to SWR bridge to dummy load and saw the same
thing... reflected power was slight tick on the meter...a needle width..

I see no continuity between shield and center conductor.

Is there any other test I can do to this coax to assure I'm getting good thru
put of RF ??

thanks
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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References: <C8C853A32C75475EB3ACF121C5AC6042@john5043a2d406>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 13:02:54 +0100
From: Dave Caroline <dave.thearchivist@gmail.com>
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] testing coaxial cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 23/10/2013, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
> I know there are some hams or experienced RF people on here so here's the
> question for them.  I'm getting my old ham gear (only VHF and UHF) and
> getting
> some emergency communication ability back.  I've had several rolls of RG-8
> stored in the loft of the garage for years.
>
> Wondering if it's deteriorated or degraded.  I hooked up a test as follows
> xmitter to SWR bridge to coax test piece to dummy load ... saw full xmitter
> power on bridge (of course)  and zero reflected
good sign

>
> Then  xmitter to coax test piece to SWR bridge to dummy load and saw the
> same
> thing... reflected power was slight tick on the meter...a needle width..

need a better load possibly

>
> I see no continuity between shield and center conductor.
>
> Is there any other test I can do to this coax to assure I'm getting good
> thru
> put of RF ??

Measure power in and at the output end, what is the loss per length
does it match the spec for the cable at that frequency.

You only get reflected power if there are discontinueties.

If you have a really fast pulse generator, eg can produce a 1ns pulse
and a very fast scope then you can make a simple TDR (time domain
reflectometer) to look at reflections v time (distance is about 1ns
per ft) and whether any problem is above or below the impedance of the
cable.

Dave Caroline

>
> thanks
> John
>
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dave.thearchivist@gmail.com
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References: <C8C853A32C75475EB3ACF121C5AC6042@john5043a2d406>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 08:03:25 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] testing coaxial cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You could put the SWR meter right after the transmitter, hook up the cable
to its output,
leave the far end open, and see that the reflected power is the same as the
forward power.
Then do it again with the far end shorted.
(These tests are basically the same as measuring the loss of a piece of
cable of twice the length.)

BTW, if the cable was terrible, and absorbed all power, the first test you
did would show the same results.

But if nothing is crumbling or cracking or corroded, the stuff is probably
fine.

Doug


On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 7:37 AM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

>
>
> Is there any other test I can do to this coax to assure I'm getting good
> thru
> put of RF ??
_______________________________________________

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	UTC
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 17:12:46 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

well... today I need a natural gas fed generator guru...

I've got a Generac Standby Generator for my home 30kw that is powered with
natural gas.   Has worked fine for 7 years... consistantly comes on once a
week and exercises itself...   this week it didn't ???

It has a v6 Ford 3.0L engine, solid state ignition... pretty bullet proof.
So I try to start it manually.. the engine spins normally and actually tries
to fire off but won't continue to run.   I checked fire... It's got it
(knocked the crap out of me)  I can smell natural gas from the exhaust.

There is a 1/2" gas line connected to a 'regulator/valve which feeds the
intake manifold.  The valve has a low fuel pressure switch which trips a micro
switch to signal a fault.  The pressure switch activates when gas is turned on
and the microswitch (NO) closes when the pressure button activates it.  There
is a solonoid on top of the valve that I hear/feel actuate when the start
cycle starts (and again I smell gas.   But the dang thing just won't catch up
and run..

I'm thinking it's a fuel problem...  something maybe in the valve...

another odd thing...  It wouldn't run Sunday when I tried it manually...  I
tried it again Tuesday and it started perfectly and ran with no problem...
tried it again today... NO START!   so now it's intermittent also...

any ideas, expert direction, CWAG, sorcery, ?????

thanks
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 22:58:50 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

I know basically nothing about natural gas engines, so this may be a worthless suggestion.  But I'm wondering if perhaps the fuel pressure is too high for some reason, maybe a bit of crud caught in the regulator valve or similar and the mixture is too rich to burn.  Just like gasoline, natural gas has a relatively limited range of mixtures where it will burn.

Beyond that it would be the usual things, ignition timing, valve timing, etc.

Randall
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 20:40:45 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/24/2013 20:40:36, Serialize complete at
	10/24/2013 20:40:36
Subject: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, this is shop related. 

I had to remove an in wall oven because it was making noise.  I replaced 
it, and figured the broken one would be perfect for the shop for powder 
coating and such.

Here is the problem, the oven works fine, but sometimes there is a loud 
hum from it when it is NOT on.

Any ideas?  Also, since this is a shop stove, can I just rewire it to a 
simple thermostat and bypass all the other nonsense?

Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" and "Bake?" 
I'm a 42 year old (come Sunday) bachelor and I don't cook.  More 
importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?

Thanks!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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On Oct 24, 2013, at 5:40 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> Here is the problem, the oven works fine, but sometimes there is a loud
> hum from it when it is NOT on.

Just plug it in when you are using it?

> Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" and "Bake?"
> I'm a 42 year old (come Sunday) bachelor and I don't cook.  More
> importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?

Broil would turn on the element on the top, and would be used for direct heat
cooking.  Not what you would want for power coating.  Typically it isnt even
controlled by the thermostat.

Use the bake setting, what ever temperature you are supposed to cure at.

-Darrell
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 20:12:34 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 21:40:50 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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Don't know about the hum.  Is that the same noise it was making in 
the kitchen?  Certainly relocating it and repurposing it hasn't fixed 
it.  I guess you could rewire it to a "simple thermostat" but it 
would have to have the ability to sense the temperature inside the 
oven while being located outside the oven.  Might be worth a little 
diagnosis first.

As for your easy question, Broil heats from above and cooks things 
from the direct heat.  You always broil on full heat.  Good for a 
steak.  Bake heats from below and heats the oven to a particular 
temperature.  This is good for things you want to heat without that 
direct burning effect.  42 year old bachelor is one thing, but heck, 
didn't you ever heat a pizza?  :-)  Powder coating is definitely a "bake" job.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 08:40 PM 10/24/2013, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>OK, this is shop related.
>
>I had to remove an in wall oven because it was making noise.  I replaced
>it, and figured the broken one would be perfect for the shop for powder
>coating and such.
>
>Here is the problem, the oven works fine, but sometimes there is a loud
>hum from it when it is NOT on.
>
>Any ideas?  Also, since this is a shop stove, can I just rewire it to a
>simple thermostat and bypass all the other nonsense?
>
>
>
>Thanks!Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" 
>and "Bake?"
>I'm a 42 year old (come Sunday) bachelor and I don't cook.  More
>importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 20:12:49 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
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	localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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>Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" and "Bake?"
>I'm a 42 year old (come Sunday) bachelor and I don't cook.  More
>importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?

         Bake is the lower element only.  Broil is the upper element 
only.  No idea which one to use for powder coating.  I use Bake for cakes 
and Broil for steaks.  Dang, now I'm hungry...


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       432,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 20:13:05 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OFD784753A.7BF62E6A-ON85257C0F.000356D5-85257C0F.0005CD61@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 21:50:16 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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> Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" and "Bake?"

Broil will usually heat up only the upper coil (assuming we're discussing an 
electric oven).
Bake will heat up both the upper & lower coils - to heat the entire oven 
evenly.

I would assume that 'bake' is what you'd use for powder coating.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 20:30:34 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 19:56:54 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFD784753A.7BF62E6A-ON85257C0F.000356D5-85257C0F.0005CD61@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" and "Bake?"
> I'm a 42 year old (come Sunday) bachelor and I don't cook.  More
> importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?
>
>

For either gas or electric ovens, "broil" is a non-regulated, or loosely 
regulated, setting
that puts the heat source at the top of the oven above the food. Sort of 
like an upside
down grill.

Bake is more closely regulated, with the heat source coming from the 
bottom of the oven.
This is what you want for powder coating.

Chef Mark.
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 19:14:30 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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Eric - An oven when off and cold shouldn't make any sounds.  Many will 
have a fan that runs when it is on to circulate air around it and keep 
the outside cool.  The fan will keep running after the oven is turned 
off until it is cool enough to safely turn off and not start a cabinet 
on fire.

Bake is the lower element only and controlled by the temperature you 
select.  I have not powder coated, but I expect this is the setting you 
will use as it is the most controlled.

Broil is the upper element to provide direct heat.  You normally use 
broil to cook something really hot and close (top rack).  Broil doesn't 
have a temperature control.

If there is a preheat setting, it runs both burners to heat the oven 
faster the switches to the lower burner once it reaches the preset temp.

Since there is something questionable about the oven, for safety, I'd 
make sure it is disconnected from power when not in use.  Either unplug 
it or if hardwired, get a disconnect like you might use for an outside 
AC unit and switch off the oven power when not in use.

Brian



On 10/24/2013 5:40 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, this is shop related.
>
> I had to remove an in wall oven because it was making noise.  I replaced
> it, and figured the broken one would be perfect for the shop for powder
> coating and such.
>
> Here is the problem, the oven works fine, but sometimes there is a loud
> hum from it when it is NOT on.
>
> Any ideas?  Also, since this is a shop stove, can I just rewire it to a
> simple thermostat and bypass all the other nonsense?
>
> Oh, one more question, what is the difference between "Broil" and "Bake?"
> I'm a 42 year old (come Sunday) bachelor and I don't cook.  More
> importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 22:22:28 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OFD784753A.7BF62E6A-ON85257C0F.000356D5-85257C0F.0005CD61@mail.megageek.com>
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Nope.  Bake is lower only.  Some ovens have a "preheat" mode that 
uses both, or a self-cleaning cycle.

-Steve

At 09:50 PM 10/24/2013, Eric J Russell wrote:
>Bake will heat up both the upper & lower coils - to heat the entire 
>oven evenly.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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Ovens usually have a clock/timer. I'd look there for the source of the hum. 

Bob K
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 23:26:14 -0400
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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On Oct 24, 2013, at 10:38 PM, Bob Kegel wrote:

> Ovens usually have a clock/timer. I'd look there for the source of the hum.
> Bob K


I second this. Our 70s oven with analog clock would occasionally resonate
something loudly enough to wake us up.
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 23:48:31 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7RIftEqv7H1W19SXuWja8FC2x/DgAK89Dg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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> More 
> importantly, which one do I use for powder coating and what setting?

Varies with the powder.  400F is most common I think.

Don't see any reason you couldn't use both elements if you want (and have enough current available).  But normally the upper "broil"
element isn't controlled by the main thermostat, so you'd need to change that.

Randall
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	<E7252449332140748FC7FADC32B3D12B@EricJRussellPC>
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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 11:46:42 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>, shop-talk
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 9:22 PM, Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>wrote:

> Nope.  Bake is lower only.  Some ovens have a "preheat" mode that uses
> both, or a self-cleaning cycle.
>
>
Depends on the oven.  Some will turn the top element on in the bake cycle,
if the temperature falls too low.  Not usually a problem in real baking,
unlews you leave the door open for far too long.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 12:15:57 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 13:29:27 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/25/2013 13:29:36, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
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First, thanks for all the great answers!  I guess this list still is 
pretty alive!  8>)

I guess I should have been clearer with my original post.  The oven came 
from a rental I have, so I never got to experience what was wrong with it.

But yes, they confirmed that it was a buzz when it was off.

Also, I did hook it up to a plug so I can unplug it when not in use (and 
even move it easily if need be.)

So it looks like this was a blessing after all.  I got my 'powder coat' 
oven and the tenants got a new oven!

Thanks again everyone.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 14:21:08 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:56:41 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: eric@megageek.com, Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oven problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

With the self-cleaning setting, you can clean grungy metal parts like old
engine blocks and bell housings.

Doug


On Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 1:29 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> First, thanks for all the great answers!  I guess this list still is
> pretty alive!  8>)
>
> I guess I should have been clearer with my original post.  The oven came
> from a rental I have, so I never got to experience what was wrong with it.
>
> But yes, they confirmed that it was a buzz when it was off.
>
> Also, I did hook it up to a plug so I can unplug it when not in use (and
> even move it easily if need be.)
>
> So it looks like this was a blessing after all.  I got my 'powder coat'
> oven and the tenants got a new oven!
>
> Thanks again everyone.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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From: "Bill Engle Sr" <whesr@iglou.com>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>, "shop-talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2F1936A9489C465199C035AF577C5231@john5043a2d406>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 11:04:15 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Check the oil level my Generac has a low oil switch that prevents starting.
Bill
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: John Niolon
  To: shop-talk
  Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 6:12 PM
  Subject: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator


  well... today I need a natural gas fed generator guru...

  I've got a Generac Standby Generator for my home 30kw that is powered with
  natural gas.   Has worked fine for 7 years... consistantly comes on once a
  week and exercises itself...   this week it didn't ???

  It has a v6 Ford 3.0L engine, solid state ignition... pretty bullet proof.
  So I try to start it manually.. the engine spins normally and actually
tries
  to fire off but won't continue to run.   I checked fire... It's got it
  (knocked the crap out of me)  I can smell natural gas from the exhaust.

  There is a 1/2" gas line connected to a 'regulator/valve which feeds the
  intake manifold.  The valve has a low fuel pressure switch which trips a
micro
  switch to signal a fault.  The pressure switch activates when gas is turned
on
  and the microswitch (NO) closes when the pressure button activates it.
There
  is a solonoid on top of the valve that I hear/feel actuate when the start
  cycle starts (and again I smell gas.   But the dang thing just won't catch
up
  and run..

  I'm thinking it's a fuel problem...  something maybe in the valve...

  another odd thing...  It wouldn't run Sunday when I tried it manually...  I
  tried it again Tuesday and it started perfectly and ran with no problem...
  tried it again today... NO START!   so now it's intermittent also...

  any ideas, expert direction, CWAG, sorcery, ?????

  thanks
  John
_______________________________________________

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	UTC
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Bill Engle Sr" <whesr@iglou.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2F1936A9489C465199C035AF577C5231@john5043a2d406>
	<C2AAAE2F88A34335B6AE1D463D90D18C@vostro1500>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 12:34:43 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

good suggestion Bill, but oil is full and if the switch was bad I don't
imagine that the gen would try to fire off at all... seems I remember the oil
switch kills the ignition...  This one will try to start but won't continue to
run...  consensus is a bad regulator but until I can find a water column gauge
and test it... we're still guessing...
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bill Engle Sr
  To: John Niolon ; shop-talk
  Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 10:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator


  Check the oil level my Generac has a low oil switch that prevents starting.
  Bill
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: John Niolon
    To: shop-talk
    Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 6:12 PM
    Subject: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator


    well... today I need a natural gas fed generator guru...

    I've got a Generac Standby Generator for my home 30kw that is powered
with
    natural gas.   Has worked fine for 7 years... consistantly comes on once
a
    week and exercises itself...   this week it didn't ???

    It has a v6 Ford 3.0L engine, solid state ignition... pretty bullet
proof.
    So I try to start it manually.. the engine spins normally and actually
tries
    to fire off but won't continue to run.   I checked fire... It's got it
    (knocked the crap out of me)  I can smell natural gas from the exhaust.

    There is a 1/2" gas line connected to a 'regulator/valve which feeds the
    intake manifold.  The valve has a low fuel pressure switch which trips a
micro
    switch to signal a fault.  The pressure switch activates when gas is
turned on
    and the microswitch (NO) closes when the pressure button activates it.
There
    is a solonoid on top of the valve that I hear/feel actuate when the start
    cycle starts (and again I smell gas.   But the dang thing just won't catch
up
    and run..

    I'm thinking it's a fuel problem...  something maybe in the valve...

    another odd thing...  It wouldn't run Sunday when I tried it manually...
I
    tried it again Tuesday and it started perfectly and ran with no
problem...
    tried it again today... NO START!   so now it's intermittent also...

    any ideas, expert direction, CWAG, sorcery, ?????

    thanks
    John
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 11:27:11 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7SdEB4wyzttNT3RniJaeuouKg/uQABE7yQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> but until I can find a 
> water column gauge

Easy enough to make; just some clear vinyl tubing and some water.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 10:45:35 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 12:41:08 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I was thinking of re-finishing my garage floor, and of course I would need
a place to put all the stuff in the garage for a month or two.  Has anyone
ever rented a smaller shipping container or one of those PODS things?  Any
idea what they charge?  I would need them to deliver it to my driveway,
and take it away when I am finished with it.

Thanks,
Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 10:56:14 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 09:50:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, Shop-Talk
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Doug,

No answer to your question (unfortunately), but I was wondering what
you decided to do regarding refinishing your floor (e.g., what approach,
materials, etc.).

There are all the epoxy-type roll-on finishes (I did one
previously with poor results here in CA with all the VOC restrictions) and
then the lay-down, "interlocking tile"
approaches, the glue-down tile
approaches and probably some others I do not know about.


best,

doug
________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Moto Guzzi 850T

'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC
Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550
'13 Aprilia Tuono V4R
________________________________
 From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To:
Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 9:41
AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
 

Hello,

I was thinking of
re-finishing my garage floor, and of course I would need
a place to put all
the stuff in the garage for a month or two.  Has anyone
ever rented a smaller
shipping container or one of those PODS things?  Any
idea what they charge?  I
would need them to deliver it to my driveway,
and take it away when I am
finished with it.

Thanks,
Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 10:57:06 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 12:55:09 -0400
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.0.1
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAOtbU9VkEJFCJjKu_pucORBo0RrD++67oiXBFTpUNEBRPFCppw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 10/30/2013 12:41 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I was thinking of re-finishing my garage floor, and of course I would need
> a place to put all the stuff in the garage for a month or two.  Has anyone
> ever rented a smaller shipping container or one of those PODS things?  Any
> idea what they charge?  I would need them to deliver it to my driveway,
> and take it away when I am finished with it.

I did. Don't remember what they charge, and it's likely widely variable 
based on region. but they do hit you up every time they have to move it. 
If it stays on site it's reasonable.

Also, mine leaked from the roof, so there's that to check for too.

jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:05:19 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:02:26 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: 'shop-talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DA74AE147C814CDD92F0762FA7A0AA7A@john5043a2d406>
	<F6.7E.00725.0790C625@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] natural gas generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's what I did.  Check out this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnlfQK-8qy4

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 02:27 PM 10/26/2013, Randall wrote:


>Easy enough to make; just some clear vinyl tubing and some water.
>
>Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:10:33 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 17:02:13 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I checked the archive but the only entries I found were way old - circa 1999.I
thought Inch enlightenend us a bit within the last few years. Anyone care to
pitch their sussess or failure with a relatively low end unit? TIA!
MattColumbus, GA
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:11:09 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 12:46:45 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/30/2013 12:46:55, Serialize complete at
	10/30/2013 12:46:55
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug asks about containers...

Doug, there are a few options here.  First, visit your local U-Haul.  They 
have varying sized containers that are pretty cheap to rent.

While there, take a close look at them, many are made with lumber and 
plywood, then covered with a weatherproof canvas or rubber.  You could 
make something yourself cheaper once you see what it actually is.

Next, if you live next to a major shipping port, contact them.  They often 
GIVE AWAY shipping containers that are not 'shipping worthy.'  All it 
would cost you is to have someone deliver it to your house.

Or, see if you can rent an enclosed trailer from a trailer dealer nearby. 
They may have a used unit that they will rent for cheap (since it will not 
really be used on the roads.)  This also gives you the advantage of 
rolling the trailer right next to the building to load/empty it, but then 
you can move it away from the doorway to keep it from being in the way.

If you can't rent it, maybe buy a used one and resell it when you are 
done.  They don't really depreciate in value (I bought one in 2010 and 
recently resold if for $200 less than I paid for.  Not bad for a 3 year 
rental.) 

I have no idea about PODS or any of those services, but I've heard they 
were pretty pricey.



Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:48:29 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:26:00 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/30/2013 13:26:02, Serialize complete at
	10/30/2013 13:26:02
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Matt asked about Plasma Cutters.

Matt, I bought from Ramsond...

http://www.ramsond.com/welding-plasma-cutting-machines/ 

I bought the Ramsond CUT50DY 50 and I'm very happy with it.

A few times I ran up against the cutting depth limit (just over 3/4 inch). 
 But overall, it does everything I expected.  I bought a ton of extra tips 
and such, which I recommend.  They are consumables.

My buddy bought a different brand (I'm not sure of the name) and while 
it's not the same unit, the consumables seem interchangeable. 

Doesn't handle really rusted metals well (but I don't think any unit 
will.)  My only issue was that I needed better eye protection.  welding 
helmets are too dark.  The welding sunglasses I got, seem slightly too 
little protection.  Neither of these are a fault of the brand or unit 
however (but if anyone has any suggestions on what to use for plasma, I'm 
all ears (or eyes, I guess.)  8>)

Shoot me an email if you have any specific questions.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:52:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
References: <20131030.130213.24697.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, 30 Oct 2013, Matt wrote:
> I checked the archive but the only entries I found were way old - circa 
> 1999.I thought Inch enlightenend us a bit within the last few years. 
> Anyone care to pitch their sussess or failure with a relatively low end 
> unit? TIA!

    I've had three plasma cutters over the past few years.  Thermal 
Dynamics Cutmaster 38, and 51 (current) and also a Hypertherm Powermax 30. 
I bought all three used, and had the 38 and the 30 at the same time -- 
until I sold the 38 to my friend.  I did not need to upgrade from the 38 
(20-30 amps) to the 51 (20-40 amps) but the latter came with my PlasmaCam 
CNC table, basically for free.

    You really can't go wrong with any unit from Hypertherm, TD, HTP, 
Lincoln or Miller, unless you buy something that won't cut what you 
need to cut.  All make quality cutters.  ESAB, too.

    Much like welders, the question is, what do you need to do with it?

    If you will never need to cut more than sheet metal, buying a 40+ amp 
cutter is wasting money.  If you do need to cut 1/2" plate, 50 or more 
amps would be nice.  My 40a Cutmaster will "sever" 3/4", but it will be an 
ugly edge that will need lots of cleanup.  "Rated" maximum is 1/2".  There 
is little difference in the capacity of various models at the same output 
amps.  Cut quality is more dependent on the age of the consumables and the 
skill of the operator, than the brand of the machine.

    If you are cutting professionally, you might check out the cost of 
consumables, which can be pricy, but for a hobbiest, you won't use them 
fast enough to care, unless you are constantly cutting junkyard metal.

    What power do you have available?  I think all 40+ amp models will 
require 240v.  My Cutmaster 38 was dual voltage, but my 51 is 240-only. 
Remember you need air, too, so if your compressor is 240 you probably need 
another circuit.

    Hypertherms are made in New Hampshire.  Thermal-Dynamics moved their 
production to China with the Cutmaster 39 model, and have since been 
bought by Victor.  I'm not, off the top of my head, sure where Lincoln and 
Miller build theirs.  HTP is probably built in Europe, like their welders. 
Generally speaking, you will pay more for Lincoln/Miller units than any of 
the rest mentioned here.  Stay away from the no-name TIG/stick/plasma 3-in 
units on eBay unless you are a gambler.

    If my Cutmaster blew up tomorrow (touchwood, never had a problem so 
far), I'd call up Hypertherm.  It is very rare to find a dissatisfied 
Hypertherm customer.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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	<527139ED.8060800@groupwbench.org>
From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 10:53:05 -0700
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We had a PODS unit on the high school campus for the Lacrosse team to use
to store their gear and change into their pads.

The first year it was a donation, but after that, the charge was something
like $300 for the season--probably about $50-60 a month.  This was a couple
years ago, about 2009/2010 so pricing might have changed

Interior construction was as Eric described, plywood with vertical 2x4
studs.  I hung some coat racks with decking screws into the studs, and we
eventually put in some of the 1 meter^2 rubber mats from Home Depot to keep
the wood floor nice(ish) in the muddy season.

Weather proof for the most part, not as good as a Tuffshed, but it was easy
to take away when done.


--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 9:55 AM, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>wrote:

> On 10/30/2013 12:41 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I was thinking of re-finishing my garage floor, and of course I would need
>> a place to put all the stuff in the garage for a month or two.  Has anyone
>> ever rented a smaller shipping container or one of those PODS things?  Any
>> idea what they charge?  I would need them to deliver it to my driveway,
>> and take it away when I am finished with it.
>>
>
> I did. Don't remember what they charge, and it's likely widely variable
> based on region. but they do hit you up every time they have to move it. If
> it stays on site it's reasonable.
>
> Also, mine leaked from the roof, so there's that to check for too.
>
> jim
>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/shop-talk/miq@
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:55:27 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My garage is 24' x 24' with a nice smooth crack-free concrete floor, and
the house is about 30 years old.  When I bought the house 7 years ago, I
painted the floor with epoxy (one of those kits form HD).  I did a careful
job with the prep, including a power-washing and an acid etch, and the job
looked great for a while, but after a couple of years it started
blistering, and and now it has random bare spots all over the place.

I had been despairing over what to do about it, but I recently discovered
that I can rent a diamond-blade concrete floor stripper that would get rid
of all the old paint in a few hour's work.  So now I can think about what
it could be replaced with.  Porcelain tile sounds cool, but it would be a
big expensive time-consuming job.  Instead I might use a better type of
epoxy or some other type of coating system, like polyurea or siloxane.

I would rather not use those plastic tiles, since I expect to do messy
things like sanding, grinding, and welding, which could damage the tiles.

The original job was easy to do since we hadn't yet moved into the house,
and the garage was empty.  But today the logistics are more complicated...

Doug


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 12:50 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>wrote:

> Hi Doug,
>
> No answer to your question (unfortunately), but I was wondering what you
> decided to do regarding refinishing your floor (e.g., what approach,
> materials, etc.).
>
> There are all the epoxy-type roll-on finishes (I did one previously with
> poor results here in CA with all the VOC restrictions) and then the
> lay-down, "interlocking tile"
> approaches, the glue-down tile approaches and probably some others I do
> not know about.
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References: <20131030.130213.24697.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com>
From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 10:56:06 -0700
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I got one of these after Inch's recommendation:
http://amzn.com/B001OHTQO4

I haven't used it much.  there is a cheaper on that has better reviews now:
http://amzn.com/B004VFJL14


--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:02 AM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

> I checked the archive but the only entries I found were way old - circa
> 1999.I
> thought Inch enlightenend us a bit within the last few years. Anyone care
> to
> pitch their sussess or failure with a relatively low end unit? TIA!
> MattColumbus, GA
> ________________________
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:56:42 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 12:46 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Doug asks about containers...
>
>
> Or, see if you can rent an enclosed trailer from a trailer dealer nearby.
> They may have a used unit that they will rent for cheap (since it will not
> really be used on the roads.)  This also gives you the advantage of
> rolling the trailer right next to the building to load/empty it, but then
> you can move it away from the doorway to keep it from being in the way.
>
> If you can't rent it, maybe buy a used one and resell it when you are
> done.  They don't really depreciate in value (I bought one in 2010 and
> recently resold if for $200 less than I paid for.  Not bad for a 3 year
> rental.)
>

Nice idea, renting or buying a trailer...

Doug
_______________________________________________

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:13:11 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] was container - now Shop Floor Treatment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Inch et al on the cutter info. For many years I dreamed of a smooth
white perfect epoxy shop floor.Finally the day arrived to construct my 30x50
garagemahal and I chickened out.I ended up going power troweled finish with
acid stain.The hangar where I work spent an exhorbitant amound on their floor,
and despite the best prep & materials available (so they said) we continue to
have problems with bubbling & lifting.  Not to mention that it is downright
hazardous if there is any moisture on the floor. I was ready to spend the $$
but didn't want to risk the significant disappointment should it fail as many
do.  I recall reading about a firm that supposedly had the floor thing licked
and was the go to choice for all the NASCAR shops but I don't recall their
name.  One of the things I remember was that they added a significant amount
of sand to their paint - not for a grippy finish, but to add bulk and
durability to the paint layer. I still hold out that someone can assuage my
fears and I may end up with my dream floor so I am interested in any success
stories. Matt
_______________________________________________

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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 14:01:05 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 10/30/2013 14:01:06, Serialize complete at
	10/30/2013 14:01:06
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, I forgot to mention.  The thing I hate the most about the Ramsond, is 
that UGLY paint scheme!!!  Who choose those colors?  McDonalds?  8>)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 12:35:56 2013
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From: Gil Fuqua <Gil.Fuqua@cci-ir.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>, "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net"
	<shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
Thread-Index: AQHO1ZoA93U1Gr7SH0+0AlBysV5wT5oNkVzA
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:34:21 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?
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But if wasn't for the wild paint scheme, it could not generate the BTUs that
the unit converts to kilovolts, subsequently blending with cosmic matter to
produce plasma that cuts the metal.  The drab colored units are therefore not
as powerful.

It's true.  I Googled it.

Gil Fuqua
Nashville

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric@megageek.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:01 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plasma cutter recommendation?

Oh, I forgot to mention.  The thing I hate the most about the Ramsond, is that
UGLY paint scheme!!!  Who choose those colors?  McDonalds?  8>)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson _______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gil.fuqua@cci-ir.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 13:44:10 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 12:40:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't forget to check local ordinances if they require a permit. My new
neighbor was complaining he got cited for having a 'pod' without a permit.
When I checked years ago, it was cheaper to move the stuff to local storage
facility.

Brian


>________________________________
> From: Doug Braun
<doug@dougbraun.com>
>(snip) 
>
>Hello,
>
>I was thinking of re-finishing my
garage floor, and of course I would need
>a place to put all the stuff in the
garage for a month or two.  Has anyone
>ever rented a smaller shipping
container or one of those PODS things?  Any
>idea what they charge?  I would
need them to deliver it to my driveway,
>and take it away when I am finished
with it.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 18:41:39 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Doug Braun" <doug@dougbraun.com>, "Shop-Talk" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9VkEJFCJjKu_pucORBo0RrD++67oiXBFTpUNEBRPFCppw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 20:37:55 -0400
	a=i8fVtPW5oWAA:10 a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Storage Container Rental
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When we remodeled our garage I rented a storage container to put all my 
tools & an MGA in during deconstruction/reconstruction. The cost was not 
unreasonable but I did feel ripped off about having to buy their lock. It is 
an odd style that I can't really use otherwise.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
>
> I was thinking of re-finishing my garage floor, and of course I would need
> a place to put all the stuff in the garage for a month or two.  Has anyone
> ever rented a smaller shipping container or one of those PODS things?  Any
> idea what they charge?  I would need them to deliver it to my driveway,
> and take it away when I am finished with it.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 09:11:14 2013
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 11:06:34 -0400
	FILETIME=[C9EBA270:01CED64A]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not talking about your breakfast cereal...
Came across this in a random blog last night, wondering if anyone has heard of
or used it?http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B009WSDWUG/downandoutint-20
Plan on picking up a box from amazon next chance I get to keep in the old
"rescue bag" in my 85 Golf.  Seems to have a similar purpose as the the
silicone "rescue tape" I've picked up and actually had a chance to use (though
not on the car, was helping the mother in law patch up a leaky hose on her
pond pump) which works great.  These types of things are pretty amazing stuff,
and too cheap not to keep around the garage or car.
-PJ
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 09:53:31 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 10:50:35 -0500
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just saw this on Shark Tank last week.



-------- Original message --------
>From PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> 
Date: 10/31/2013  10:06 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Subject [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix? 
 
Not talking about your breakfast cereal...
Came across this in a random blog last night, wondering if anyone has heard of
or used it?http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B009WSDWUG/downandoutint-20
Plan on picking up a box from amazon next chance I get to keep in the old
"rescue bag" in my 85 Golf.B  Seems to have a similar purpose as the the
silicone "rescue tape" I've picked up and actually had a chance to use (though
not on the car, was helping the mother in law patch up a leaky hose on her
pond pump) which works great.B  These types of things are pretty amazing stuff,
and too cheap not to keep around the garage or car.
-PJ
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 10:16:56 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:15:18 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not sure how compatible "rigid" and "car hoses" are.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "PJ McGarvey" <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
> To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 10:06:34 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
> Not talking about your breakfast cereal...
> Came across this in a random blog last night, wondering if anyone has
> heard of
> or used
> it?http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B009WSDWUG/downandoutint-20
> Plan on picking up a box from amazon next chance I get to keep in the
> old
> "rescue bag" in my 85 Golf. Seems to have a similar purpose as the the
> silicone "rescue tape" I've picked up and actually had a chance to use
> (though
> not on the car, was helping the mother in law patch up a leaky hose on
> her
> pond pump) which works great. These types of things are pretty amazing
> stuff,
> and too cheap not to keep around the garage or car.
> -PJ
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 13:03:51 -0400
References: <COL127-W474DE55256B9215537B9779A0B0@phx.gbl>,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
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Yeah, the rescue tape is what you want for hoses...

> Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:15:18 +0000
> From: pethier@comcast.net
> To: pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
>
> Not sure how compatible "rigid" and "car hoses" are.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "PJ McGarvey" <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 10:06:34 AM
> > Subject: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
> > Not talking about your breakfast cereal...
> > Came across this in a random blog last night, wondering if anyone has
> > heard of
> > or used
> > it?http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B009WSDWUG/downandoutint-20
> > Plan on picking up a box from amazon next chance I get to keep in the
> > old
> > "rescue bag" in my 85 Golf. Seems to have a similar purpose as the the
> > silicone "rescue tape" I've picked up and actually had a chance to use
> > (though
> > not on the car, was helping the mother in law patch up a leaky hose on
> > her
> > pond pump) which works great. These types of things are pretty amazing
> > stuff,
> > and too cheap not to keep around the garage or car.
> > -PJ
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 11:31:09 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W474DE55256B9215537B9779A0B0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fiber Fix?
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On 10/31/2013 11:06 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
> Not talking about your breakfast cereal...
> Came across this in a random blog last night, wondering if anyone has heard of
> or used it?http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B009WSDWUG/downandoutint-20
> Plan on picking up a box from amazon next chance I get to keep in the old

Hmm, interesting sounding stuff. Seems plausible, but I'd have doubts it 
would work on dirty or non-rigid stuff. Like say a radiator hose. Could 
be useful for some stuff though.

Another good hint: if you don't have transportation to medical 
professionals, steri-strips [you really should have these in your med 
cab or first aid kit] or a suture kit and ability & willingness to use 
it on yourself -- cut up strips of coffee filters applied with super 
glue work great on some pretty bad lacerations.

-Wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 13:08:27 2013
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 14:05:57 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
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I need a nibbler to cut a hole in a furnace plenum with the side of the
A-coil right behind where I need to cut.  Having just finished cutting the
old humidifier opening larger for a new humidifier, and I will NOT try to
use aviation snips to make a neat little hole in this tight area.

 

Horrible Freight has an air nibbler, but I'd really like something better -
the reviews say their dies break way too easily.  What a surprise that
Chinese steel is weak.  Does someone make a good electric nibbler?  A good
hand nibbler, with good leverage?  There used to be nibbler attachments that
chuck right into an electric drill, and the demos at Oshkosh many years ago
were impressive.  I'd even buy an air nibbler, though that's my last choice
because of the decreased versatility.

 

What works well?

 

Thanks!
Karl
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 14:11:58 2013
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References: <003901ced66c$3b462d70$b1d28850$@Ameritech.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:09:38 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had an HF air nibbler for several years and had no problem.  I tend
not to use just because of the mess it makes - I'm picking up little
crescent moon shaped pieces of metal forever after each use.

I have seen the drill mounted ones advertised but can't tell you where off
the top of my head.

Ben....
On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 3:05 PM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:

> I need a nibbler to cut a hole in a furnace plenum with the side of the
> A-coil right behind where I need to cut.  Having just finished cutting the
> old humidifier opening larger for a new humidifier, and I will NOT try to
> use aviation snips to make a neat little hole in this tight area.
>
>
>
> Horrible Freight has an air nibbler, but I'd really like something better -
> the reviews say their dies break way too easily.  What a surprise that
> Chinese steel is weak.  Does someone make a good electric nibbler?  A good
> hand nibbler, with good leverage?  There used to be nibbler attachments
> that
> chuck right into an electric drill, and the demos at Oshkosh many years ago
> were impressive.  I'd even buy an air nibbler, though that's my last choice
> because of the decreased versatility.
>
>
>
> What works well?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 14:29:00 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 15:17:57 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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	<CAMHq6Zyj8DorObZDhA6vZf=Y0m_n=UEiQjh1Sa_wgw6zvD6Mbg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
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Ebay #290999892885, $40. No connection, may be cheaper ones listed, 
found first one listed and stopped there.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Benjamin Zwissler

> I've had an HF air nibbler for several years and had no problem.  I tend
> not to use just because of the mess it makes - I'm picking up little
> crescent moon shaped pieces of metal forever after each use.
>
> I have seen the drill mounted ones advertised but can't tell you where off
> the top of my head.
>
> Ben....
> On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 3:05 PM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>> I need a nibbler to cut a hole in a furnace plenum with the side of the
>> A-coil right behind where I need to cut.  Having just finished cutting the
>> old humidifier opening larger for a new humidifier, and I will NOT try to
>> use aviation snips to make a neat little hole in this tight area.
>>
>>
>>
>> Horrible Freight has an air nibbler, but I'd really like something better -
>> the reviews say their dies break way too easily.  What a surprise that
>> Chinese steel is weak.  Does someone make a good electric nibbler?  A good
>> hand nibbler, with good leverage?  There used to be nibbler attachments
>> that
>> chuck right into an electric drill, and the demos at Oshkosh many years ago
>> were impressive.  I'd even buy an air nibbler, though that's my last choice
>> because of the decreased versatility.
>>
>>
>>
>> What works well?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Karl
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 14:39:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 13:28:12 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7WagmoT52tXHzuRcWI5mrTOPFbPgAC+5ng
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
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Not what you want to hear, but I bought an HF air nibbler for the same exact purpose (except there wasn't a coil inside the plenum).
It worked perfectly for that one job, and IMO will have been worth the money even if I never use it again.

It was some hassle snaking air hose up in the attic (where the plenum was), but not a lot worse than pulling an extension cord into
the same area.  Took 100 ft of 3/8" hose plus 25 feet of 1/4" to reach from my compressor, but the nibbler seemed to work OK even
with all that hose.  Don't recall for certain, but I think I used the unregulated air port, which would be about 130 psi with my old
single-stage compressor.

I'd take the same approach again.  If you were local, I'd even loan you the nibbler, but it's not worth shipping back and forth
across country.

Randall
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 19:50:59 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <jv7d1m0210NyJgq01v7fgp>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nibbler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 03:05 PM 10/31/2013, you wrote:

 >I need a nibbler to cut a hole in a furnace plenum with the side of the
 >A-coil right behind where I need to cut. ......

I have had a Harbor Freight nibbler for many years and have been very happy
with it, altough I don't use it a lot.

For those that haven't used one yet, one comment, be very careful when you use
them if you have pets.  You don't want your dog stepping on the chips.


John



John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
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