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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 18:14:41 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

So our Price-Pfister kitchen faucet has been leaking a bit, flow has 
been diminishing
and the nylon stub that holds the handle in place has gotten worn to the 
point that the
little set screw doesn't really hold it in place anymore.

So I get a replacement cartridge for 20 bucks at Lowe's, got it 
installed just now.
No leaks, solid handle attachment - nice.  But the water only dribbles 
out.  It would
probably take 15 minutes to fill a coffee cup.  What fun.

Hopefully I can figure it out before the wife gets home and wants dinner.

mjb.

ps:  Can someone Paypal a few hundred thousand to me?  It might be easier to
        just buy a new house ;-)
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 18:32:12 2013
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 17:22:50 -0700
From: MattMahony <MattMahony@Comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
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Mark;

Try removing and cleaning the aerator at the end of the spigot. Debris 
from the deteriorating cartridge is plugging it up.

Matt

On 8/2/2013 5:14 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> So our Price-Pfister kitchen faucet has been leaking a bit, flow has 
> been diminishing
> and the nylon stub that holds the handle in place has gotten worn to 
> the point that the
> little set screw doesn't really hold it in place anymore.
>
> So I get a replacement cartridge for 20 bucks at Lowe's, got it 
> installed just now.
> No leaks, solid handle attachment - nice.  But the water only dribbles 
> out.  It would
> probably take 15 minutes to fill a coffee cup.  What fun.
>
> Hopefully I can figure it out before the wife gets home and wants dinner.
>
> mjb.
>
> ps:  Can someone Paypal a few hundred thousand to me?  It might be 
> easier to
>        just buy a new house ;-)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mattmahony@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 18:32:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 19:29:41 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <51FC4B71.4070205@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
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Mark,

Remove the airiator from the faucet and see if the water flow is better. 
If you have a sprayer hose on the faucet, see if it also lacks flow.

If the flow is still slow, pull the cartridge and then turn on the water 
EASILY and see if you have flow up out of the faucet housing. If so, the 
problem is with the cartridge or something after it. It could be that 
turning off the water caused the rubber seals in the stops under the 
sink to come apart, blocking water flow.

Don't worry about the problem with the wife seeing it, I assume this is 
in the kitchen in your shop!  8>}

Peace,
Pat
Thusly spake Mark J Bradakis

> So our Price-Pfister kitchen faucet has been leaking a bit, flow has 
> been diminishing
> and the nylon stub that holds the handle in place has gotten worn to 
> the point that the
> little set screw doesn't really hold it in place anymore.
>
> So I get a replacement cartridge for 20 bucks at Lowe's, got it 
> installed just now.
> No leaks, solid handle attachment - nice.  But the water only dribbles 
> out.  It would
> probably take 15 minutes to fill a coffee cup.  What fun.
>
> Hopefully I can figure it out before the wife gets home and wants dinner.
>
> mjb.
>
> ps:  Can someone Paypal a few hundred thousand to me?  It might be 
> easier to
>        just buy a new house ;-)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 18:46:31 2013
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <51FC4B71.4070205@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 19:40:33 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
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Shouldn't the topic have been Pfaucet Pfun ?

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis 
Subject: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun

So our Price-Pfister kitchen faucet has been leaking a bit 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 19:17:38 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
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Well that was pfestive.  Getting the faucet apart was the biggest 
hurdle.  It took
some time just to figure out what tool I needed to get the first 
setscrew out - Torx T10.
Then with all the scale and corrosion it took some time to get the 
handle off, then get
the rest of the parts freed up.  Reassembly was no problem with freely 
moving, clean
parts.

But it didn't work, so I took a break.  Relaxed with a cold beverage, 
then went back to
it.  And, as suggested, the aerator was completely clogged.  It seemed 
odd, because I
had cleaned it before swapping out the faucet cartridge as well as the 
charcoal cartridge
in the filter.  If only I had waited until after I messed with it to 
clean, could have saved
myself a few minutes.

But all is well now.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 19:49:00 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 21:24:15 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/02/2013 21:24:16, Serialize complete at
	08/02/2013 21:24:16
Subject: [Shop-talk] Since we are talking about pfaucets
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Ok, here is the background.

My house has a water pump that supplies water to my house, and two other 
buildings.  One building is above the level of my house.

This works OK, but I need to increase the water pressure to the upper 
building.  It's supplied by a 3/4" pvc pipe.  There is NO chance of 
increasing that line.

Best would be a pump and/or tank that I can put in my house since I have 
lots of space where the line leaves.

The other building has very little 'extra' space, so anything I put up 
there needs to be pretty compact.

Any ideas?  Do they make anything for this situation?

Thanks!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 20:04:07 2013
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 2:03:58 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net, eric@megageek.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Since we are talking about pfaucets
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---- eric@megageek.com wrote: 

> Any ideas?  Do they make anything for this situation?

Evidently so.  A quick Google for "water pressure booster" turned up lots of options and some "how to" videos.

Here's a unit at HF:
http://goo.gl/YVSkaK

Lots cheaper than what I would have done, which is just install another well-type pump & pressure tank.  It shouldn't care if you feed it water at 40 psi instead of -10 or whatever.

- Randall
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <51FC4B71.4070205@bradakis.com>
  <51FC59E3.9090902@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 20:25:54 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,

So no one needs to send a few hunderd thou. . . . . . 

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 6:16 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun

Well that was pfestive.  Getting the faucet apart was the biggest 
hurdle.  It took
some time just to figure out what tool I needed to get the first 
setscrew out - Torx T10.
Then with all the scale and corrosion it took some time to get the 
handle off, then get
the rest of the parts freed up.  Reassembly was no problem with freely 
moving, clean
parts.

But it didn't work, so I took a break.  Relaxed with a cold beverage, 
then went back to
it.  And, as suggested, the aerator was completely clogged.  It seemed 
odd, because I
had cleaned it before swapping out the faucet cartridge as well as the 
charcoal cartridge
in the filter.  If only I had waited until after I messed with it to 
clean, could have saved
myself a few minutes.

But all is well now.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 21:36:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 21:29:04 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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	<1EADE812AB524FA7A3262D7330315673@EntCentPC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
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Jack Brooks wrote:
> Mark,
>
> So no one needs to send a few hunderd thou. . . . . .
>

Well, uh, er,  I guess not.  Oh well, it was worth a shot.  Or a beer 
and a shot.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 21:36:49 2013
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Since we are talking about pfaucets
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Eric,

Here are two TV segments on the subject.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_increase_water_pressure_in_your_home

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20305378,00.html

Randall's link is probably much more affordable.

Brian


On 8/2/2013 6:24 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, here is the background.
>
> My house has a water pump that supplies water to my house, and two other
> buildings.  One building is above the level of my house.
>
> This works OK, but I need to increase the water pressure to the upper
> building.  It's supplied by a 3/4" pvc pipe.  There is NO chance of
> increasing that line.
>
> Best would be a pump and/or tank that I can put in my house since I have
> lots of space where the line leaves.
>
> The other building has very little 'extra' space, so anything I put up
> there needs to be pretty compact.
>
> Any ideas?  Do they make anything for this situation?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 07:55:59 2013
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	2013 09:50:19 -0400
From: ejrussell@mebtel.net
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 09:50:19 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Faucet fun
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> So no one needs to send a few hunderd thou. . . . . . 

Well, I got an email the other day about a whole lot of money tied up 
in a Nigerian bank. If y'all send me some cash I'll forward it along 
and then we can all split the proceeds... 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 12:53:04 -0500
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
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Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has failed.
The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is $100
or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine, not
quite bottom of line, but close.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 14:09:11 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Unless you're itching for the satisfaction you get from fixing it yourself,
I'd junk it.  You can buy a used washing machine on Craigslist for $100
that is newer than that anytime you want one.  Especially when you say that
you "believe" that the timer has failed.

-Paul


On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 1:53 PM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has failed.
> The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is
> $100
> or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine, not
> quite bottom of line, but close.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 14:36:35 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Junk it!
On Aug 3, 2013 2:03 PM, "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has failed.
> The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is
> $100
> or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine, not
> quite bottom of line, but close.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 13:24:45 2013
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 15:20:42 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 8/3/2013 1:53 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has failed.
> The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is $100
> or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine, not
> quite bottom of line, but close.

I'm a big fan of "fix it", but if it's that old and an econo' model I'd 
be inclined to replace.

The [ex]wife & I had a cheap GE top-load washer back in 2003. Then we 
had a recently divorced family member shack up with us for a while till 
she was back on her feet. During that time we bought a Whirpool Duet 
front-loader pair, and I freakin' love the things, despite the price 
tag. My propane (hot water) and electric bill actually dropped 
noticeably after buying it, WITH a 3rd person in the house. And it 
didn't shred the ladies' delicate [expensive] stuff like the old 
agitator did. It spins the water out in the washer, so you don't have to 
burn crazy energy to overcome water's absurd latent heat of vaporization 
to boil it out in the dryer. Electric dryer load usually finishes in 
under 30 [sometimes 20] minutes.

Caveat: dryer puked a temp sensor 1 month out of warranty. Both units 
have an extensive printed service manual inside the cabinet if you pull 
3 screws to get in. Self diagnostics are easy. Parts was $20 and an easy 
install. Local small town appliance shop didn't even ask what it was, 
they had a box right behind the counter. Whirlpool's quality is a little 
spotty, but parts are cheap and they're easy to work on. G.E. parts are 
expensive, and I despise their corporation. The Korean brands look good 
but I don't know about getting them services.

   -Wayne
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References: <9331187E-2412-4248-944D-890EB3CBC86E@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 12:22:57 -0700
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd go for a hybrid approach: get a new(er) washing
machine, and use the tub and any other suitable parts
to make a really nice firepit.


On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 10:53 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has failed.
> The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is
> $100
> or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine, not
> quite bottom of line, but close.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 13:37:34 2013
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	<CAAy7z=1vfS2AkytoeJfoHhsQRYOeCR6T7Rpoqj3mPJ5Lj=_kRQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 12:25:50 -0700
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Can I take back that comment?  I missed the part
about it being a plastic tub washer, and that would
make a lousy firepit.


On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 12:22 PM, Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>wrote:

> I'd go for a hybrid approach: get a new(er) washing
> machine, and use the tub and any other suitable parts
> to make a really nice firepit.
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 10:53 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has
>> failed.
>> The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is
>> $100
>> or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine,
>> not
>> quite bottom of line, but close.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 14:54:58 2013
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	<20130803020358.NC4W9.32933.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 15:53:01 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Since we are talking about pfaucets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 9:03 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ---- eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> > Any ideas?  Do they make anything for this situation?
>
> Evidently so.  A quick Google for "water pressure booster" turned up lots
> of options and some "how to" videos.
>
> Here's a unit at HF:
> http://goo.gl/YVSkaK
>
> Lots cheaper than what I would have done, which is just install another
> well-type pump & pressure tank.  It shouldn't care if you feed it water at
> 40 psi instead of -10 or whatever.
>
>
Well, a pressure tank and pump is the right way to go.  The tank and its
reservoir give the supply side constant pressure and flow.  Just a pump
will lag when a faucet goes on, and is more likely to water hammer when the
faucet goes off.




-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fix or replace washer?
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On 8/3/2013 1:53 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
> Weve got a 15 or so old ge washing machine. I believe the timer has failed.
> The motor runs if I jumper it. My question is it worth fixing. Timer is $100
> or &150, depending on source and wait time. It's a plastic tub machine, not
> quite bottom of line, but close.

At 15 years, the timer was probably just the first part to go. Motor or 
transmission is next.  The springs for self balance are probably 
stretched by now.  Aging rubber hoses and deteriorating plastic parts 
(exposed to ozone created by the motor) which could ruin other things if 
they leak.

I'm a fan of fix it.  I replaced a transmission after 5 years and got 
another 5 years out of it.  But if you factor the time plus another 
major part and trips to the laundry mat (which ain't cheap) you starting 
to approach the cost of a newer better machine.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 19:26:08 2013
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 18:22:38 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: 'Shop Talk List' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Recoil starter repair?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to replace the nylon pull rope on my log splitter.  It's an older 
(probably about 20 years) Briggs, vertical shaft, 5HP with a full 
plastic shroud over the motor.  It looks like the gas tank is built into 
the shroud, but I haven't looked closely.  Anyway, the cord is all 
frayed and I need to replace it, or have it replaced.  I haven't dug out 
the manual yet, but wanted to get a sense for how much trouble it is to 
do it myself.  If it's a PITA or I would need a special puller I might 
just tow it down to the local small engine place and let them do it.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Dave C'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "'Shop Talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <51FEFE5E.5080302@frontier.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:33:49 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Recoil starter repair?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The recoil assembly is part of the air shroud - no need to pull the
flywheel.  It engages the inside of the flywheel nut or a separate ratchet
held on by the flywheel nut.  Likely four screws and it's off the shroud.
Once it's off, you should be able to wind the spring up and slip the new
rope into the reel without too much trouble.  Take it off and you'll see how
simple it is.


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave C
Subject: [Shop-talk] Recoil starter repair?

I need to replace the nylon pull rope on my log splitter.  If it's a PITA or
I would need a special puller I might just tow it down to the local small
engine place and let them do it. 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 20:19:08 -0700
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To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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Cc: 'Shop Talk List' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Recoil starter repair?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a 2000 Briggs mower and had to replace the string.  It was a 
little smaller than your splitter, but should be similar.

In my case, I undid the screws holding the gas tank on and moved it 
enough to be out of the way.  I then popped off a plastic cap over the 
string area and removed the top portion of the cover, to include the 
string/recoil mechanism.  I did not have to do anything internal to the 
engine.  Like Karl said, the cover/ pull mechanism just engages the engine.

If you string broke, you are going to have to figure out how much 
tension is necessary and may have to wind it a time or two.

If the existing string still works, prepare the end of the new string to 
thread through the hole in the reel.  I heated it with a lighter then 
rolled it to be narrow and slightly pointed.  Then pull the old string 
to the limit and jam the reel in position with the old string extended.  
I had a place to stick a screwdriver.  I then cut the old string, put in 
the new string through the cover and into the reel, and tied the knot at 
the reel end.  I then used the old string to get the right length for 
the new string an knotted it at the grip end.  Release the reel and let 
it wind in the new string then give it a test pull.  If all is good, put 
it back together and you are good for another decade or two.

Brian

On 8/4/2013 6:22 PM, Dave C wrote:
> I need to replace the nylon pull rope on my log splitter.  It's an 
> older (probably about 20 years) Briggs, vertical shaft, 5HP with a 
> full plastic shroud over the motor.  It looks like the gas tank is 
> built into the shroud, but I haven't looked closely.  Anyway, the cord 
> is all frayed and I need to replace it, or have it replaced. I haven't 
> dug out the manual yet, but wanted to get a sense for how much trouble 
> it is to do it myself.  If it's a PITA or I would need a special 
> puller I might just tow it down to the local small engine place and 
> let them do it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 22:01:16 2013
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 20:54:37 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
References: <51FEFE5E.5080302@frontier.com> <51FF19AC.4020101@earthlink.net>
Cc: 'Shop Talk List' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Recoil starter repair?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks.  I got the top cover off without any problems and now I just 
have to get a new piece of line.  Looks like it's going to be a little 
easier than I thought.


On 8/4/2013 8:19 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> I had a 2000 Briggs mower and had to replace the string.  It was a 
> little smaller than your splitter, but should be similar.
>
> In my case, I undid the screws holding the gas tank on and moved it 
> enough to be out of the way.  I then popped off a plastic cap over the 
> string area and removed the top portion of the cover, to include the 
> string/recoil mechanism.  I did not have to do anything internal to 
> the engine.  Like Karl said, the cover/ pull mechanism just engages 
> the engine.
>
> If you string broke, you are going to have to figure out how much 
> tension is necessary and may have to wind it a time or two.
>
> If the existing string still works, prepare the end of the new string 
> to thread through the hole in the reel.  I heated it with a lighter 
> then rolled it to be narrow and slightly pointed.  Then pull the old 
> string to the limit and jam the reel in position with the old string 
> extended.  I had a place to stick a screwdriver.  I then cut the old 
> string, put in the new string through the cover and into the reel, and 
> tied the knot at the reel end.  I then used the old string to get the 
> right length for the new string an knotted it at the grip end.  
> Release the reel and let it wind in the new string then give it a test 
> pull.  If all is good, put it back together and you are good for 
> another decade or two.
>
> Brian
>
> On 8/4/2013 6:22 PM, Dave C wrote:
>> I need to replace the nylon pull rope on my log splitter.  It's an 
>> older (probably about 20 years) Briggs, vertical shaft, 5HP with a 
>> full plastic shroud over the motor.  It looks like the gas tank is 
>> built into the shroud, but I haven't looked closely.  Anyway, the 
>> cord is all frayed and I need to replace it, or have it replaced. I 
>> haven't dug out the manual yet, but wanted to get a sense for how 
>> much trouble it is to do it myself.  If it's a PITA or I would need a 
>> special puller I might just tow it down to the local small engine 
>> place and let them do it.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 08:37:00 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 10:12:25 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/07/2013 10:12:30, Serialize complete at
	08/07/2013 10:12:30
Subject: [Shop-talk] Griot's Garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone heard about Griot's Garage sending people out to your house to 
host a 'tupperware party' style detailing session?

I heard that they will come to your house if you have enough people. 
Anyone else hear of this?

Anyone know how to contact them?

I can't find anything on their website.

Thanks

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 09:07:01 2013
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 07:54:31 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	mail.megageek.com>
	localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Griot's Garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You wrote:
>Has anyone heard about Griot's Garage sending people out to your house to
>host a 'tupperware party' style detailing session?

         I know they do that at club events up here in the Pacific NW, but 
that's because they're based in Tacoma (just south of Seattle).  You'd have 
to email them to see if they can do that in other areas.  I'd guess not, 
since they don't have retail locations all over the country.
         It's nice they're local to me, I can go down to their 
showroom/corporate offices to pickup products and even chat with Rich Griot 
himself if he's in.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       418,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2013 10:54:44 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFA1974947.D2BE8AF3-ON85257BBC.000760BF-85257BBC.00097EF0@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Since we are talking about pfaucets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 8/2/2013 9:24 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, here is the background.
>
> My house has a water pump that supplies water to my house, and two other
> buildings.  One building is above the level of my house.
>
> This works OK, but I need to increase the water pressure to the upper
> building.  It's supplied by a 3/4" pvc pipe.  There is NO chance of
> increasing that line.
>
> Best would be a pump and/or tank that I can put in my house since I have
> lots of space where the line leaves.
>
> The other building has very little 'extra' space, so anything I put up
> there needs to be pretty compact.
>
> Any ideas?  Do they make anything for this situation?
>
> Thanks!
You'll need to boost the pressure in the basement 10 lbs for ever 23 
feet of vertical distance between the buildings.  If the building is 
only 23 feet higher you could just adjust your pressure on your existing 
system (assuming you have a well pump and pressure tank already) 10lbs 
in the house.

Any more and I'd add a second isolated system to handle the added 
pressure.  Add a back flow value, a second pump, new pressure switch and 
expansion tank that can handle the need pressure.  If its too much 
pressure, you'll need to do this in the higher building.

How much higher is the second building?
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 07:44:46 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:25:36 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/13/2013 09:25:39, Serialize complete at
	08/13/2013 09:25:39
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...

I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure 
gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.

Here is the story, I have to work on tanks that need to be within about a 
PSI or two (range is from about 15PSI to about 50PSI).  Many gauges give 
different readings.

So, without spending a fortune (but I am willing to spend a fair amount), 
where can I get a good one?  One attached to an air fill nozzle would be 
ideal.


Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF76CF8F29.D0A23B1C-ON85257BC6.004AA53E-85257BC6.004B448F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 08:53:18 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

I think with a little fab or cobble work you could come up with a homemade 
gauge that would be accurate...  surely one of the major tire gauge 
people... Milton ..etc makes a filler that has a threaded end that could be 
threaded into a 3/8 brass tee... a high quality accurate gauge in one tee 
port and the quick couple adapter into the other... probably wouldn't be 
pocket friendly but it could be extremely accurate... find a good liquid 
filled guage with the proper range... to comply with your anal accuracy 
standard ...check the gauge on known pressure points before assembling..

I'm fairly sure there are ample brass adapters and fittings that you could 
use to cobble this thing up..  I've often wondered the same thing... and 
basically use mine to assure that all 4 tires have the same pressure... my 
accuracy standard isn't quite as high as yours :-)

john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric@megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 8:25 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges


> OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...
>
> I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
> gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.
>
> Here is the story, I have to work on tanks that need to be within about a
> PSI or two (range is from about 15PSI to about 50PSI).  Many gauges give
> different readings.
>
> So, without spending a fortune (but I am willing to spend a fair amount),
> where can I get a good one?  One attached to an air fill nozzle would be
> ideal.
>
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
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References: <OF76CF8F29.D0A23B1C-ON85257BC6.004AA53E-85257BC6.004B448F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:57:36 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 9:25 AM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...
>
> I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
> gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.

At least you aren't alone.  The question runs in my family too.   My
dad once went into a tire store with a similar question - "How do you
calibrate your tire gauges?" - and they looked at him like he was from
Jupiter.

I suppose there are electronic gauges that are reasonably accurate,
though a calibration certificate is expensive.  And then there's this:

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=1520&catid=8

Lots more choices here
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/catlist.asp?catid=8 including an
"economy" gauge for $40 that "reads to 1/2 lb".  No mention of
accuracy, though.  Need to go more $$$ to get them to say anything
about that..

I'm curious as to what others may have to say...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 08:09:20 -0700
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF76CF8F29.D0A23B1C-ON85257BC6.004AA53E-85257BC6.004B448F@mail.megageek.com>
	<CAO8Q7CN5PzXOJbYqU3OgxCrtT6FhKVMhd8ey5WeyLwMiwr8TQA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  The guys at Longacreracing told me when I was looking that the liquid 
filled will be the most accurate, of course I was not looking at the 
first $360 gauge that Jeff posted.

  I purchased this one 
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=1120&catid=8 My 
calibration technique consisted of  comparing it to 2 of their digital 
units and it gave the same reading, that was my super accurate 
calibration :)

   To have what you specifically asked for with fill nozzle, take a look 
at 
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/digital+tire+inflating+gun.do?sortby=ourPicks&from=Search 
I have the dial (or is that analog) version of it and i have been happy, 
its 10+ years old and gives the same reading as the liquid filled gauge.

    It does not answer your calibration question, but I think for tires 
at least, I don't know what you will use it on, that the most important 
thing is consistency, that is why I have 3 gauges one in each car and 
motorcycle and the guys at longacreracing sure like their liquid filled 
guages when you talk to them.

     mike

On 8/13/2013 6:57 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 9:25 AM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>> OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...
>>
>> I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
>> gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.
> At least you aren't alone.  The question runs in my family too.   My
> dad once went into a tire store with a similar question - "How do you
> calibrate your tire gauges?" - and they looked at him like he was from
> Jupiter.
>
> I suppose there are electronic gauges that are reasonably accurate,
> though a calibration certificate is expensive.  And then there's this:
>
> http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=1520&catid=8
>
> Lots more choices here
> http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/catlist.asp?catid=8 including an
> "economy" gauge for $40 that "reads to 1/2 lb".  No mention of
> accuracy, though.  Need to go more $$$ to get them to say anything
> about that..
>
> I'm curious as to what others may have to say...
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists@dinospider.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 08:24:02 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	mail.megageek.com>
	localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric wrote:
>OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...
>
>I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
>gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.

         Here is your solution.  Imperial Supplies has calibrateable tire 
gauges

http://www.imperialsupplies.com , under Hardware, Tire Hardware

Calibratable gauges:
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/vol20/page/M39.pdf
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/vol21/page/N53.pdf

They also have an Air Gauge Test Station:
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/3523-1_Tire-Gauge_Care_Use.pdf
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/item/0739570  (includes video of 
calibration procedure)

This could be fabbed up fairly easily.  A piece of pipe with ends welded 
up, a port with a regulator for filling the pipe with air at a specific 
pressure, a port fitted with an accurate test gauge (McMaster has 
High-Accuracy Gauges that would work) and a Shader valve to attach the tire 
gauge you want to test.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       412,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 09:48:43 2013
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References: <5.1.0.14.2.20130813081520.020b5c28@mail.avvanta.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 11:39:18 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

Is the idea to have a single gauge that you want to use to make sure two
tanks have 'equal' pressure (i.e. repeat-ability is very important, but
accuracy is less so) or that you want a permanent mount gauge on each tank?

Standard racing oriented tire pressure gauges should be fine for the first
use, but I wouldn't trust them much for the second.

Mark


On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 11:24 AM, Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com> wrote:

> Eric wrote:
>
>> OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...
>>
>> I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
>> gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.
>>
>
>         Here is your solution.  Imperial Supplies has calibrateable tire
> gauges
>
> http://www.imperialsupplies.**com <http://www.imperialsupplies.com> ,
> under Hardware, Tire Hardware
>
> Calibratable gauges:
> http://www.imperialsupplies.**com/pdf/vol20/page/M39.pdf<http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/vol20/page/M39.pdf>
> http://www.imperialsupplies.**com/pdf/vol21/page/N53.pdf<http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/vol21/page/N53.pdf>
>
> They also have an Air Gauge Test Station:
> http://www.imperialsupplies.**com/pdf/3523-1_Tire-Gauge_**Care_Use.pdf<http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/3523-1_Tire-Gauge_Care_Use.pdf>
> http://www.imperialsupplies.**com/item/0739570<http://www.imperialsupplies.com/item/0739570> (includes video of calibration procedure)
>
> This could be fabbed up fairly easily.  A piece of pipe with ends welded
> up, a port with a regulator for filling the pipe with air at a specific
> pressure, a port fitted with an accurate test gauge (McMaster has
> High-Accuracy Gauges that would work) and a Shader valve to attach the tire
> gauge you want to test.
>
>
> Todd
> Seattle,WA
> '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
> '01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       412,000 miles
> '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a
> new home :(
> http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/marka@**maracing.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 16:17:53 +0000 (UTC)
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Subject: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

LED light bulbs in garage door operators.

The 75-watt conventional rough-service incandescent bulb in my garage-door opener burned out.  Since one wants a vibration-resistant bulb, I replaced it with a 17-watt LED unit that gives the light of a 75-watt incandescent.

The opener started working intermittently.  Sometimes it would open but not close with the remote, sometimes it would close but not open.  Sometimes it worked from inside the garage, sometimes only from outside.  Only consistent thing is that the hardwired doorbell button in the garage always worked.  All the wireless remotes including the keypad on the outside of the garage acted goofy.

Took the bulb out completely.  Everything worked fine.

Put in an ordinary 75-watt that was handy.  Everything worked fine but the bulb burned out fast.

Put in a new rough-service incandescent bulb.  Everything works fine.

Obviously, I don't want to use LED lights in this operator.  Somehow the circuitry in a multi-LED bulb does weird things with the radio in the operator.  Anybody else ever see this effect? 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 11:38:36 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: pethier@comcast.net
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have not seen this specifically with the bulb in the opener, but now you
have me wondering if installing LED's in the soffit lights outside the
garage are an explanation for why the range of my garage door opener is now
a couple yards where it used to be more like a couple dozen yards.  I will
do some experiments tonight and report back.  In the mean time, to extend
the life of traditional bulbs in the opener, you might want to do what I
did.  Mount a standard fixture to the ceiling a couple feet away and wire
it to the opener.  Then you can use a standard bulb and not have the
vibration form the opener shorten the life.


On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 11:17 AM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> LED light bulbs in garage door operators.
>
> The 75-watt conventional rough-service incandescent bulb in my garage-door
> opener burned out.  Since one wants a vibration-resistant bulb, I replaced
> it with a 17-watt LED unit that gives the light of a 75-watt incandescent.
>
> The opener started working intermittently.  Sometimes it would open but
> not close with the remote, sometimes it would close but not open.
>  Sometimes it worked from inside the garage, sometimes only from outside.
>  Only consistent thing is that the hardwired doorbell button in the garage
> always worked.  All the wireless remotes including the keypad on the
> outside of the garage acted goofy.
>
> Took the bulb out completely.  Everything worked fine.
>
> Put in an ordinary 75-watt that was handy.  Everything worked fine but the
> bulb burned out fast.
>
> Put in a new rough-service incandescent bulb.  Everything works fine.
>
> Obviously, I don't want to use LED lights in this operator.  Somehow the
> circuitry in a multi-LED bulb does weird things with the radio in the
> operator.  Anybody else ever see this effect?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 10:54:43 2013
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 11:47:57 -0500
From: Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org>
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To: pethier@comcast.net
References: <2019521980.1039460.1376410673087.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Both LED's and CFL's use switching power supplies built in the bulb 
base.  It is common for them to cause RF interference across a wide 
spectrum.  Their radiation limits are controlled on paper but not in 
reality.  When the bulb is in close proximity to a receiver the signal 
can be strong enough to mask the remote receiver and make it fail to 
recognize the intended signal.  Like trying to hear a whisper when 
someone is yelling in your ear.  Stick with the standard bulb.


On 8/13/2013 11:17 AM, pethier@comcast.net wrote:
> LED light bulbs in garage door operators.
>
> The 75-watt conventional rough-service incandescent bulb in my garage-door opener burned out.  Since one wants a vibration-resistant bulb, I replaced it with a 17-watt LED unit that gives the light of a 75-watt incandescent.
>
> The opener started working intermittently.  Sometimes it would open but not close with the remote, sometimes it would close but not open.  Sometimes it worked from inside the garage, sometimes only from outside.  Only consistent thing is that the hardwired doorbell button in the garage always worked.  All the wireless remotes including the keypad on the outside of the garage acted goofy.
>
> Took the bulb out completely.  Everything worked fine.
>
> Put in an ordinary 75-watt that was handy.  Everything worked fine but the bulb burned out fast.
>
> Put in a new rough-service incandescent bulb.  Everything works fine.
>
> Obviously, I don't want to use LED lights in this operator.  Somehow the circuitry in a multi-LED bulb does weird things with the radio in the operator.  Anybody else ever see this effect?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 10:57:34 2013
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To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 16:51:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just one data point (well two, as I have two openers), several years ago I
put a CF bulb in my garage door opener, as I didn't have a regular bulb.  I
expected it to fail quickly, but when it didn't, I replaced all of them (each
opener has two).  They have been going fine for at least five years.  They are
screw drive openers, so perhaps smoother than a chain drive, though based on
the noise they make (they are probably 20+ years old), the probably still
vibrate quite a bit.  Incandescent bulbs, even rough service, tended to last
less than a year.

-Darrell
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 11:15:08 2013
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Thread-Index: Ac6YQSmvF8JUrfMTRMuePvceSubmGwABB6pQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
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> Obviously, I don't want to use LED lights in this operator.  
> Somehow the circuitry in a multi-LED bulb does weird things 
> with the radio in the operator.  Anybody else ever see this effect? 

Not all LED "bulbs" are created equal.  Since LEDs are low voltage DC
devices, the "bulbs" include switch mode power supplies that usually run at
pretty high frequencies (to reduce the size of the inductor involved).

Obviously, the bulb you got is radiating interference.  A better made, or
even just different, bulb might radiate less and work better.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 11:42:50 2013
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From: pethier@comcast.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
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----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darrell Walker" <darrellw360@mac.com>

> Just one data point (well two, as I have two openers), several years
> ago I
> put a CF bulb in my garage door opener, as I didn't have a regular
> bulb. I
> expected it to fail quickly, but when it didn't, I replaced all of
> them (each
> opener has two). They have been going fine for at least five years.

Where do you live?  Here in Minnesota it gets too cold for CF bulbs to start reliably.


> Incandescent bulbs, even rough service, tended to
> last
> less than a year.

I must have gotten a good one, then.  It had been in there for over a decade.

At a couple of bucks a pop for rough-service bulbs, I'm sticking with them.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 12:09:30 2013
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To: pethier@comcast.net
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 17:55:28 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Aug 13, 2013, at 10:26 AM, pethier@comcast.net wrote:


Where do you
live? Here in Minnesota it gets too cold for CF bulbs to start reliably.
 
Pacific Northwest.  And the way my house/garage is built (living space above
and on one side, essentially underground on two more sides), it rarely gets
below 45 in the garage.

-Darrell
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 12:27:01 2013
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF76CF8F29.D0A23B1C-ON85257BC6.004AA53E-85257BC6.004B448F@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
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On 8/13/2013 9:25 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
> gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.

I'm rather fond of this thing from Advance Auto. think auto Zone sells a 
similar one.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_tire-pressure-gauge-victor_1920154-p?searchTerm=tire+gauge

I have one in the car and another in the toolbox, and occasionally check 
them against each other and they agree. And they were purchased a good 
time part. Mom  & riend both have the same one and they are all 
consistent. That's not "accurate" or "calibrated" but a generally good 
sign. It has a nice bleed-down button, you you an sihtly overfill the 
tire, then bleed down to 1/2 psi or so.

TireRack.com sale a bunch of fancy digital ones, too.

-wc
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 12:51:18 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
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On 8/13/2013 1:26 PM, pethier@comcast.net wrote:
>> Incandescent bulbs, even rough service, tended to last
>> less than a year.
>
> I must have gotten a good one, then.  It had been in there for over a decade.
> At a couple of bucks a pop for rough-service bulbs, I'm sticking with them.

BTW, you can still score regular incandescent 100 watters from Amazon. I 
bought TWO cases! That should hold me till the industry comes out with 
an alternative that 1) actually produces equivalent light output [vs 
their lies] 2) lasts a reasonable time given its absurd cost 3) or is 
reasonably priced 4) MOST IMPORTANT, my comfort rules: does NOT flicker 
or "sparkle", put out funny colored light, or give me a f*****g headache.

Screw IT! I'm not gonna be a guinea pig for $5 - $40 products that suck. 
I KNOW what's sucking power in my house (HVAC, water heating, 
dehumidifier, stereo, PC farm)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055T5VW8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-wc
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <d583b504-556f-47ba-a8d2-8e6c8702b4dd@me.com>
	<1024802784.1041164.1376414795350.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 14:17:54 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIPB4jUG7QxPjjdze4/SrGSetSzkpkSn4YA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got some el-cheapo CFL's at the hangar that light down to at least
zero.  I think the package actually promised -20, but about zero is about as
cold as I can remember trying them.
For rough-service incandescent bulbs, I've been abusing the ones from NAPA
in drop lights for years, and they seldom die except from age.  Dropping and
coolant drips don't seem to faze them.

Karl

-----Original Message-----
From: pethier@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators

> Where do you live?  Here in Minnesota it gets too cold for CF bulbs to
start reliably.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 15:52:55 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] LED light bulbs in garage door operators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 2:47 PM, Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com> wrote:
> That should hold me till the industry comes out with an alternative that 1)
> actually produces equivalent light output [vs their lies] 2) lasts a
> reasonable time given its absurd cost 3) or is reasonably priced 4) MOST
> IMPORTANT, my comfort rules: does NOT flicker or "sparkle", put out funny
> colored light, or give me a f*****g headache.


Like these?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_302474-3-50005_4294801201__?productId=3203513

http://assets.sylvania.com/assets/Documents/HAL040R2.55fb350d-76b5-404c-909c-101455ceabbd.pdf
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 21:59:47 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF76CF8F29.D0A23B1C-ON85257BC6.004AA53E-85257BC6.004B448F@mail.megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire Pressure gauges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric - I have an Accu-Gage that I've been very happy with. It is similar to
www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-100-Dial-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0006O2S1E/

They also have a 60 psi gauge. When getting some tires a number of years 
ago on my TR6, I spent a while talking to the shop manager. We talked 
about autocrossing and he asked how I checked my pressures. I showed him 
my gauge and he offered to check it for me. They had some sort of way to 
check and said the gauge was right on. If you have a good tire place you 
use, you could check with them to see if they will test your gauge.

This gauge also has the bleed button in another reply and I recommend it 
as a good feature.

They also have a gauge with a filler chuck so you can connect the gauge 
then add air while you monitor pressure.
http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-EZ02-Gauge-Filler-Chuck/dp/B0074B9DA6/

Brian


On 8/13/2013 6:25 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, here is my most 'anal' post to date...
>
> I've been trying to figure out how to get an *ACCURATE* tire pressure
> gauge.  But I have no idea how to check or calibrate them.
>
> Here is the story, I have to work on tanks that need to be within about a
> PSI or two (range is from about 15PSI to about 50PSI).  Many gauges give
> different readings.
>
> So, without spending a fortune (but I am willing to spend a fair amount),
> where can I get a good one?  One attached to an air fill nozzle would be
> ideal.
>
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 11:50:44 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] 4.54" GRINDER SPINDLE ADAPTER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got 4 grinders that I use regularly...and all but one have a 5/8" - 11
spindle... I like to keep one with a grinding rock, one with a flap disk, one
with a cutting wheel, one with a wire brush

I've got one Milwaukee 6145 with a 1/2" - 13 spindle and have to use the
flanges to hole the flapdisk on it. I have a load of threaded flappers that I
can use but won't fit this grinder and I'd love to get rid of the flanges and
that funky spanner wrench...

anyone know of a adapter that will screw onto a 1/2" spindle and size up to a
5/8 ????

can't seem to find anything but 5/8 to 10.2 metric (or whatever)

thanks
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 13:25:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:24:25 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] SPAM:  4.54" GRINDER SPINDLE ADAPTER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> anyone know of a adapter that will screw onto a 1/2" spindle and size up to a
> 5/8 ????

1/2" is almost the tap drill for 5/8", meaning a sleeve would be weak.  Using a standoff type adapter would probably not be a good idea either, since it moves the flap wheel farther away from the grinder, which will increase vibration and the stress on the bearings.

Might be best to just put the grinder with the 1/2" shaft up on eBay and buy another grinder with 5/8".

Another alternative might be to machine a new shaft with 5/8" threads.

Randall
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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 17:46:07 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
nuts and bolts you collect?

Do you throw them in one big coffee can?  Sort them somehow? Or
(gasp!) toss them and buy new whenever you need them?

Been cleaning the shop today, and pondering buying one of those HF
tumblers and polishing all my old hardware...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 18:17:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] oil leak detection dye
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone here used one of these products? Are there any specific 
engine types that it shouldn't be used on?

Any advice solicited.

Thanks!
tim
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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 18:22:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I save anything usable, try to sort it out by bolt, nut, washer, etc. 
and (because of this "horde") have used Datsun bolts on my 71 Jeep as 
well as two different toyotas.


On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 4:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:

> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
> nuts and bolts you collect?
>
> Do you throw them in one big coffee can?  Sort them somehow? Or
> (gasp!) toss them and buy new whenever you need them?
>
> Been cleaning the shop today, and pondering buying one of those HF
> tumblers and polishing all my old hardware...
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 17:24:31 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Race car guru and author, Carroll Smith, wrote in his book on hardware
something like:  "Gather up every bolt, nut and washer that is NOT at least
grade 5 and throw them in the trash so you'll never be tempted to use
inferior hardware on your project".

I can't get THAT serious about hardware; I work on race cars but I also
work on the lawn mower now and then  I DO have a bolt bin with about 100
little drawers and I DO occasionally sort out the bucket of used hardware
and put the PERFECT ones back in the bin.
  It doesn't take that much to stock a bolt bin;  Start with the basic
sizes you use most.  I use 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2 and I separate the
bins of each size into NF and NC threads and "long & short (under and over
1 1/2").  Ten more bins for nuts and washers.  If you find a place that
sells good bolts by the pound and just buy 4 or 5 of each size your
investment will be small and you'll save many a trip to the hardware
store.  So far, all my metrics land in one or two bins and I have to dig
for them.
Tony in Texas






On 18 August 2013 16:46, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:

> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
> nuts and bolts you collect?
>
> Do you throw them in one big coffee can?  Sort them somehow? Or
> (gasp!) toss them and buy new whenever you need them?
>
> Been cleaning the shop today, and pondering buying one of those HF
> tumblers and polishing all my old hardware...
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <6ca4d8ce.4fc010.1409385b55d.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 15:55:06 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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I only save the ones I will never need.

Mike
===============
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts


>I save anything usable, try to sort it out by bolt, nut, washer, etc. and 
>(because of this "horde") have used Datsun bolts on my 71 Jeep as well as 
>two different toyotas.
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 4:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>
>> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
>> nuts and bolts you collect?
>>
>> Do you throw them in one big coffee can?  Sort them somehow? Or
>> (gasp!) toss them and buy new whenever you need them?
>>
>> Been cleaning the shop today, and pondering buying one of those HF
>> tumblers and polishing all my old hardware...
>>
>> Jeff Scarbrough
>> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 17:23:22 2013
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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 16:08:57 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	mail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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         I use several medium-size tupperware containers.  I like them 
because the lids fit tight, less likely to accidentally spill the contents.
         I don't have so much extra hardware that I sort by thread size, 
etc.  One each for Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Wood Screws, Machine Screws, Pop 
Rivets.  One for Other, with some oddballs that don't fit in the other 
categories.

Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       420,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 17:32:17 2013
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From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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I have about half a dozen of the clear plastic shoe boxes from Target or 
wherever, and have all the nuts in one, washers in another and then more 
or less sort the SAE sized bolts/machine screws from 1/4 to 1/2 in their 
own tubs.  Everything metric goes into one tub. Anything  under 1/4 goes 
in little individual drawers.  Still keeping nails and drywall screws, 
sorted by size, in coffee cans.


On 8/18/2013 2:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
> nuts and bolts you collect?
>
> Do you throw them in one big coffee can?  Sort them somehow? Or
> (gasp!) toss them and buy new whenever you need them?
>
> Been cleaning the shop today, and pondering buying one of those HF
> tumblers and polishing all my old hardware...
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 18:32:45 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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On 8/18/2013 2:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
> nuts and bolts you collect?

I have this discussion with myself regularly.  Often quite loudly.

> Do you throw them in one big coffee can?  Sort them somehow? Or
> (gasp!) toss them and buy new whenever you need them?

I keep generic sizes and shapes (SAE 1/4-7/16 in size increments from 
3/4 up to 3 or so, M6/M8/M10 in a smaller range of sizes) in inventory, 
buy 'em from McMaster-Carr.

But...there's all kinds of oddball and interesting fasteners that come 
out of things you disassemble, and it's really a PITA to sort and stock 
all those things.

They all go into gallon-size buckets my wife brings home from work (the 
gallon size were usually olives or salad dressing, the five-gallon ones 
pickles) and get sorted when the stack of olive buckets gets too tall 
for me to work around.

That's one of those "it's ten PM, everyone else is in bed, get your 
sorry ass out to the shop and do it" jobs.

Slightly less painful now that I've got speakers and amps and a little 
Bluetooth dongle wired up in the garage and shop so I can blast my 
Dollyrots and Girls From The Clouds Pandora channels while I work, but 
I've still got a WHOLE LOT of those jobs stacked up.

> Been cleaning the shop today, and pondering buying one of those HF
> tumblers and polishing all my old hardware...

Most of the good factory stuff has yellow zinc or cadmium plating, or 
some sort of passivating, that you don't want to knock off if you don't 
have to, so watch out for polishing.

I need to come up with some sort of plating setup for various stuff, old 
OE-specific nuts and bolts like the Ford 5.0 rocker-cover bolts with the 
stud that sticks up for the plug-wire loom to snap onto, the airbox 
snap-latches for the same application, etc.

John.
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'shop-talk@autox.team.net'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 18:23:41 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all 
> the old nuts and bolts you collect?

For the largest portion of them (in standard shapes & sizes), I sort them
out into drawers.  I've got several shelves full of metal drawers salvaged
from a previous employer who was closing a business area; plus quite a few
of the smaller cabinets with the plastic drawers.

Then some of the oddball stuff is in coffee cans, sorted roughly by where it
came from.  At some level though, I just throw them away.  The odds of my
ever needed the funky threaded peg for the shift linkage on a POS car that
blew up 10 years ago just aren't high enough to merit keeping it; even
though it would be difficult to replace if I ever did need one.

I've got "Screw to Win", and I might take Carroll's advice if I only ever
built race cars.  But when I'm just replacing the leg on the BBQ grille,
Grade 5 is a waste and I'm more interested in not having to make a trip to
the hardware store to find that M6x1x64 screw that fits.  ISTR that
somewhere towards the back of the book, he also admits that high tensile
isn't always necessary.

-- Randall 
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <78.73.15971.79371125@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 21:10:55 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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guys... when you only have 24x24   you got to do better than coffee cans... 
get organized...

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/storage/storage.htm

I've got a 5 gallon bucket of old stuff that has been sitting in the corner 
for years....I think it's still there...  I use new for everything !  cheap 
insurance
later
John
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 20:50:42 2013
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'Tim'" <tputland@charter.net>, "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4b2930df.4fbf46.1409381823d.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 22:54:36 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oil leak detection dye
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All of the Castrol oils that I know of have a ultraviolet additive that is
visible under that light.

You can buy an additive at any good auto parts store and put it in your oil,
but I would check you oil first with a UV light.



Tony Vaccaro
Lotus Owners of NY  (LOONY)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 6:18 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] oil leak detection dye

Has anyone here used one of these products? Are there any specific engine
types that it shouldn't be used on?

Any advice solicited.

Thanks!
tim
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc@lotusowners.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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OK, had to look those up.


On 8/18/2013 5:32 PM, John Miller wrote:
> Dollyrots and Girls From The Clouds 
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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 22:14:56 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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Randall wrote:
But when I'm just replacing the leg on the BBQ grille,
Grade 5 is a waste

My Grade 5 bolts cost a buck thirty more than grade 2 PER POUND!  Gosh,
that must be nearly a nickel each for a decent bolt!
Tony


On 18 August 2013 20:23, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all
> > the old nuts and bolts you collect?
>
> For the largest portion of them (in standard shapes & sizes), I sort them
> out into drawers.  I've got several shelves full of metal drawers salvaged
> from a previous employer who was closing a business area; plus quite a few
> of the smaller cabinets with the plastic drawers.
>
> Then some of the oddball stuff is in coffee cans, sorted roughly by where
> it
> came from.  At some level though, I just throw them away.  The odds of my
> ever needed the funky threaded peg for the shift linkage on a POS car that
> blew up 10 years ago just aren't high enough to merit keeping it; even
> though it would be difficult to replace if I ever did need one.
>
> I've got "Screw to Win", and I might take Carroll's advice if I only ever
> built race cars.  But when I'm just replacing the leg on the BBQ grille,
> Grade 5 is a waste and I'm more interested in not having to make a trip to
> the hardware store to find that M6x1x64 screw that fits.  ISTR that
> somewhere towards the back of the book, he also admits that high tensile
> isn't always necessary.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 22:18:43 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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On 8/18/2013 5:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
> nuts and bolts you collect?

To me the trick is how do you keep them usable and accessible without 
blowing too much time micro managing them. Being able to find a precise 
size quickly in a pinch without making a 12 mile round trip to Lowes or 
the FLAPS (assuming they're open) is a BIG time and money saver.

I've bought maybe 8 of those plastic "mix" boxes of "Asian metric 
fasteners", "metric O-rings", stainless steel sheet metal screws, etc. 
'Cause you can get then at cheap places for $4 - $10 bucks, and if you 
use ONE piece out of the box in a pinch and it saves you a drive, it's 
paid for itself.

For all the dimensional stuff I buy from the box boxes in little bags 
for a particular job, I have a bunch of 3"x4" zip-locks from ULINE. Once 
of twice a year they all get re-bagged and a spreadsheet (available on 
request) prints out large easily readable standardized tags I cut up and 
drop in the bags. They are loosely grouped in bins like "large wood 
screws", "metric machine", "washers", etc. I have others that are just 
lose "misc SAE machine screws", "Nissan hardware", "Misc sheet metal 
screws". I can scrounge through quickly and find an exact fit if needed, 
or something close enough.

A lot of it is NOT worth keeping or sorting and just gets tossed in the 
scrap bin.

-Wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 22:53:05 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 21:53:02 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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> My Grade 5 bolts cost a buck thirty more than grade 2 PER 
> POUND!  Gosh, that must be nearly a nickel each for a decent bolt!

Yeah, but how much does it cost in fuel and time to drive to the store to
pick up just one bolt?  Especially at 5:55 on Sunday, when the store closes
at 6.  If they even have the right size in stock.

And the BBQ grille will never know the difference.  I could put a mil-spec
titanium bolt in there, and it would grill just the same.

-- Randall 
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 00:10:50 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Randall wrote:

Yeah, but how much does it cost in fuel and time to drive to the store to
pick up just one bolt?  Especially at 5:55 on Sunday, when the store
closes  at 6.  If they even have the right size in stock.

*Now we're back to why I have a bolt bin, AND your Chinese bolt will likely
fatigue-strip and dump your T-bone in the dirt tomorrow :->.*
*Tony in Texas*


On 18 August 2013 23:53, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > My Grade 5 bolts cost a buck thirty more than grade 2 PER
> > POUND!  Gosh, that must be nearly a nickel each for a decent bolt!
>
> Yeah, but how much does it cost in fuel and time to drive to the store to
> pick up just one bolt?  Especially at 5:55 on Sunday, when the store closes
> at 6.  If they even have the right size in stock.
>
> And the BBQ grille will never know the difference.  I could put a mil-spec
> titanium bolt in there, and it would grill just the same.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 04:54:09 -0700
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> AND your Chinese 
> bolt will likely
> fatigue-strip and dump your T-bone in the dirt tomorrow

The trick is in knowing if a fastener is adequate for the job.  Some
applications, even Grade 8 won't cut the mustard (5 is actually pretty
soft); but sometimes even old pasta will do.  That particular bolt has been
doing it's job for some 30 years now, so I really doubt it will fail
tomorrow.

-- Randall 
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 07:13:19 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, if I were you, I'd stick with the pasta.
Tony


On 19 August 2013 06:54, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > AND your Chinese
> > bolt will likely
> > fatigue-strip and dump your T-bone in the dirt tomorrow
>
> The trick is in knowing if a fastener is adequate for the job.  Some
> applications, even Grade 8 won't cut the mustard (5 is actually pretty
> soft); but sometimes even old pasta will do.  That particular bolt has been
> doing it's job for some 30 years now, so I really doubt it will fail
> tomorrow.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 06:26:56 2013
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: 'Shop Talk List' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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On 8/19/2013 5:54 AM, Randall wrote:
>> AND your Chinese
>> bolt will likely
>> fatigue-strip and dump your T-bone in the dirt tomorrow
> The trick is in knowing if a fastener is adequate for the job.  Some
> applications, even Grade 8 won't cut the mustard (5 is actually pretty
> soft); but sometimes even old pasta will do.  That particular bolt has been
> doing it's job for some 30 years now, so I really doubt it will fail
> tomorrow.
>
> -- Randall
>

Just to elaborate--there is a grading system precisely because some 
bolts are just fine for some applications, but not for others. The same 
is true of bearings.  The ABEC bearing system was developed for the same 
reason the SAE fastener system was devised.  It's just part of an 
industrial system developed over generations with the principle of 
optimum utility in mind.  It's a waste of money and resources to use 
hardware far beyond the demands required of it. What's much more 
important is to know _when_ and _how_ to use the right fastener for the job.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Elton E. \(Tony\) Clark'" <eltonclark@gmail.com>, "'Shop Talk
	List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CA+7Nz3p+ou1pH_8MJz7G_xWe8U-SS+UStB9W0h7S2orKu0goPg@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:27:39 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJUqXdU57Hcbn0LdNjUJq3LB/dxLAGmJtQwARpD1IeYenlYgA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not taking sides here - I have a number of heavy drawers of
highly-assorted nuts and bolts that go back to my dad and grandfather, and I
do the stupid dig when necessary.

BUT - Tony's response definitely wins my humor of the day award !!

> *Now we're back to why I have a bolt bin, AND your Chinese bolt will
likely fatigue-strip and dump your T-bone in the dirt tomorrow :->.* *Tony
in Texas*
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 08:54:00 2013
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:53:52 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oil leak detection dye
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I was surprised to learn that engine oils show up nicely under UV light
without any dye.  A dye may make it glow even brighter, but with a good UV
light you can see oil leaks just fine as long as there's a little shade.

Here's one - Amazon has quite a few, and I was amazed at the quality and low
price of the one (looks identical) that I bought a few years ago.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SIR08C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&ps
c=1&smid=A23BMDV6UOKQGP

Karl

PS - Also reveals biological products of all sorts on all types of surfaces
in all types of places.  Not for the squeamish...



-----Original Message-----
From: Tim
Subject: [Shop-talk] oil leak detection dye

Has anyone here used one of these products? Are there any specific engine
types that it shouldn't be used on?
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References: <004101ce9ceb$ebc69230$c353b690$@Ameritech.net>
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 11:22:46 -0400
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
Cc: "<shop-talk@autox.team.net>" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oil leak detection dye
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On Aug 19, 2013, at 10:53, "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net> wrote:

> I was surprised to learn that engine oils show up nicely under UV light
> without any dye.  A dye may make it glow even brighter, but with a good UV
> light you can see oil leaks just fine as long as there's a little shade.
>
Dyes can also change the color it fluoresces. That is handy for finding a leak
in a dirty engine compartment.
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From: "Joe Szwed" <jszwed@energykinetics.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 11:20:57 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6Z4ZxXo6zZITiERBGtdNZrJ6kUjwDDW0BA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 4.54" GRINDER SPINDLE ADAPTER
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Another thought, some grinders are offered with different sized spindles.  
Maybe you can look at replacement parts and see if they make one with 5/8
spindle and just swap it out.

Joe


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1

> anyone know of a adapter that will screw onto a 1/2" spindle and size 
> up to a
> 5/8 ????

1/2" is almost the tap drill for 5/8", meaning a sleeve would be weak.
Using a standoff type adapter would probably not be a good idea either,
since it moves the flap wheel farther away from the grinder, which will
increase vibration and the stress on the bearings.

Might be best to just put the grinder with the 1/2" shaft up on eBay and buy
another grinder with 5/8".

Another alternative might be to machine a new shaft with 5/8" threads.

Randall


------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 21:50:00 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm pondering the next phase of shop construction, adding a ceiling.
One part of the shop is a shed-type roof that's fairly low.  It would
be simple to just put R-19 insulation between the rafters and screw
the ceiling to that.  Something in my head tells me that you need to
leave an air space between the insulation and the roof decking...

Is this necessary?


Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 21:56:46 -0400
References: <CAO8Q7CP+VqR4aTkFgpATOBmYkMzJZkodZJ9chzsgcT4B9uNY=Q@mail.gmail.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Aug 19, 2013, at 9:50 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:

> I'm pondering the next phase of shop construction, adding a ceiling.
> One part of the shop is a shed-type roof that's fairly low.  It would
> be simple to just put R-19 insulation between the rafters and screw
> the ceiling to that.  Something in my head tells me that you need to
> leave an air space between the insulation and the roof decking...
>
> Is this necessary?

If you do, you'll need an intake at the soffit and exhaust at the ridge, and
you will have airflow that keeps the roof cool(er). And with R19, the shop
will stay a bit cooler too. They make soffit & ridge vents, as well as
channels to staple to the roof deck so the insulation doesn't seal off the
space. Could also lay 1x2s covered with lauan to make your own channel.

A gap on its own won't do anything if there's no where for that heated air to
go.
_______________________________________________

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	<52119C91.2000501@xxiii.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:36:33 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

I built some shelves to hold them and got a whole crapload of these type of
bins:  http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-bin-rack-with-47-bins-95736.html

(without the rack... Which any sane person would just buy and not spend
three hours making like I did.)

Then I spent about a week of "a few hours a night" sorting bolts/nuts.

That's the hard part done.  The nice thing is that with that done, its just
like going to a hardware store, without dumping a coffee can of bolts on
the ground sorting through them trying to find what you want.  MUCH nicer.

I also have a couple grab bag cans of used wood screws, used sheet metal
screws, etc.

The less fun part is being disciplined about keeping them sorted when you
add new bolts & such.  Its not bad to do if you just do it whenever you
take that handful of bolts in to keep, but if you let it build up it
becomes a little more daunting.

Mark


On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 12:18 AM, Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com> wrote:

> On 8/18/2013 5:46 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>
>> Here's a question for discussion...What do you do with all the old
>> nuts and bolts you collect?
>>
>
> To me the trick is how do you keep them usable and accessible without
> blowing too much time micro managing them. Being able to find a precise
> size quickly in a pinch without making a 12 mile round trip to Lowes or the
> FLAPS (assuming they're open) is a BIG time and money saver.
>
> I've bought maybe 8 of those plastic "mix" boxes of "Asian metric
> fasteners", "metric O-rings", stainless steel sheet metal screws, etc.
> 'Cause you can get then at cheap places for $4 - $10 bucks, and if you use
> ONE piece out of the box in a pinch and it saves you a drive, it's paid for
> itself.
>
> For all the dimensional stuff I buy from the box boxes in little bags for
> a particular job, I have a bunch of 3"x4" zip-locks from ULINE. Once of
> twice a year they all get re-bagged and a spreadsheet (available on
> request) prints out large easily readable standardized tags I cut up and
> drop in the bags. They are loosely grouped in bins like "large wood
> screws", "metric machine", "washers", etc. I have others that are just lose
> "misc SAE machine screws", "Nissan hardware", "Misc sheet metal screws". I
> can scrounge through quickly and find an exact fit if needed, or something
> close enough.
>
> A lot of it is NOT worth keeping or sorting and just gets tossed in the
> scrap bin.
>
> -Wayne
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Shop Talk List" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAO8Q7CO7gpdCvNq5KDVAgRZDmEiW=rJni8KRiNDRjD5_9YyH+Q@mail.gmail.com><52119C91.2000501@xxiii.com>
	<CAAoSWGNw26NvCaqEe=pHiVq_LQrcuPwX-tfjsb1ShzJap1834w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:23:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

To explore an implied part of Jeff's question ...

"and pondering buying one of those HF tumblers and polishing all my old 
hardware"

Those of you that are "recycling", what are you doing before you file them 
away ... be it into a gallon bucket or into a labeled drawer?

Arvid 
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:45:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Babiarz <jrbabiarz@yahoo.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've done that - although avoid the HF tumbler....it will break and be a total
pain. I had one and it was a headache....very bad failure mode where the
motor
keeps trying to run but the bearing seizes so the motor gets ungodly
hot. Not
good for a device that you want to turn on and leave unattended
for hours
(days) on end.... 


I bought a good one at BassPro - it is much better built
and has lasted WAY 

longer so far. I have done a bunch of containers of hw
and the come out great. 

I use walnut shells as the media that is sold as
animal cage litter at Petco (or 

your choice of pet store). Much, much
cheaper than the same thing from a 

sporting goods store or even HF.
However, be prepared - you will be picking the shells out of the heads of the
screws when you are done. I had a small awl I used to dig the shells out. It
can be time-consuming but it is worth it. I had a lot of old bolts and screws
that were very well made, unlike a lot of newer stuff. Also, I hope you have
someplace detached from your house to run the thing in - they are noisy.
Luckily, my garage is detached so it runs out there. Even with the heavy wood
doors closed, you can hear it doing its thing from 10 ft away from the
building.
Since it will need to run at least overnight, it won't be popular
with the missus
if you try running it in the basement. YMMV but these have
been my experiences
with the thing.

BTW - the good unit I got at BassPro was
<$100. Cabelas also sells similar (or maybe
even the same) unit. Be aware of
size of the bowl - if you have long items, they may
not fit (once you get to
9"-10" or so). All this said, I'd still say go for it. Those polishers
are
pretty handy for other things. I cleaned up some old hand tools that were
rusted
horribly and they look great now. You'll be amazed at what a good job
it can do. Just
don't overload it....

Good luck.
John
>________________________________
> From: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
>To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Tuesday, August 20,
2013 11:23 AM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
> 
>
>To explore an
implied part of Jeff's question ...
>
>"and pondering buying one of those HF
tumblers and polishing all my old 
>hardware"
>
>Those of you that are
"recycling", what are you doing before you file them 
>away ... be it into a
gallon bucket or into a labeled drawer?
>
>Arvid
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:58:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] NUTS & BOLT STORAGE
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 here's another idea
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151803972808890&set=a.90657113889.8
2316.30340468889&type=1&theater


JOHN






















Just because I
give you advise 
doesn't mean I know more than you...

It only means I've done
more stupid
stuff than you
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 12:23:15 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Nuts and Bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Howdy,

I don't do anything.  If the bolt is mechanically messed up, then I toss
it.  If its not, it goes into the bin.

I'll clean it up if I reuse it.

Mark


On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com> wrote:

> To explore an implied part of Jeff's question ...
>
> "and pondering buying one of those HF tumblers and polishing all my old
> hardware"
>
> Those of you that are "recycling", what are you doing before you file them
> away ... be it into a gallon bucket or into a labeled drawer?
>
> Arvid ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> options/shop-talk/marka@**maracing.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 20 16:21:18 2013
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 21:58:28 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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> Those of you that are "recycling", what are you doing before you file them 
> away ... 

Basically nothing, except maybe a spritz of preservative oil if I think it's called for (removed wet or showing signs of rust).  Then I'll clean as much as necessary when it comes out for use, which usually isn't much (for me).  Most of the stuff I save doesn't get used for "cosmetic" purposes.  (I'm one of those guys with the engine compartment done in rattle-can black instead of the "correct" body color.)

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 11:44:57 2013
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 10:44:30 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend sent me this link and it's pretty interesting.  The author is 
using ultra capacitors as an alternative to his car battery and it seems 
to work.  On the link below the lower video is the original where he 
used larger caps, and the second, upper video, is where he used much 
smaller caps and a lithium-iron R/C battery to offset the capacitor 
leakdown, and it apparently was able to hold the charge for at least ten 
days.   Saves a lot of weight and seems to work in a beater Scion but I 
don't know how well it would work in a diesel P/U in Anchorage in February.

> http://laserhacker.com/?cat=6
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 14:17:53 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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How many tries does he get to start the car?

Doug
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 12:34:47 2013
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 11:34:36 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery
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Quite a few in the videos.  It never did crank very long, but started 
right up, even at lower (less than 12) voltages.  Recharge time was very 
quick, too.


On 8/24/2013 11:17 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> How many tries does he get to start the car?
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 13:12:13 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery
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Any thoughts on how this would work in a car with no charging system, such
as a Formula Ford with a race time of 1/2 hr.?

A simple way of shedding some weight.

Doug Armstong

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave C
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 2:35 PM
To: Doug Braun
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery

Quite a few in the videos.  It never did crank very long, but started 
right up, even at lower (less than 12) voltages.  Recharge time was very 
quick, too.


On 8/24/2013 11:17 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> How many tries does he get to start the car?
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong@nexicom.net



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 14:45:32 2013
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From: Fred Katz <roadster@astound.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:41:02 -0700
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery
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I've seen a bunch of videos on these. He gets quite a few starts. When not
using the running car to put a charge in, he uses solar panels and they
recharge pretty quickly. Very lightweight and reliable.

Fred - SSF, CA

On Aug 24, 2013, at 11:17 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> How many tries does he get to start the car?
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 12:20:15 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:20:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] nylocks
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On the linkage kit for my Weber carbs, there are nylocks that hold the 
bolts that hold the dog bones to the linkage arms. Yesterday I lost one 
of the nylocks and thus the linkage came loose. (A very scary situation 
with an engine with less than 500 miles on it suddenly not running very 
well!!! Thankfully it was easily diagnosed and fixed enough to get 
home!)

Has anyone ever experienced a nylock failing to hold or backing off? 
These were new when they were installed.

Since these connections need to be loose with no binding, should I go 
with a couple jam nuts locked together on each bolt instead of nylocks 
or just stick with nylocks and carry extras?

Thanks

tim
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 18:50:45 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] nylocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote: 

> Has anyone ever experienced a nylock failing to hold or backing off? 
> These were new when they were installed.

Yes, frequently.  I now use "Stover" nuts instead (aka distorted thread lock nuts), which work in a similar fashion but the locking section is steel, just part of the nut that has been deformed to grab the threads.  Readily available from McMaster Carr
http://tinyurl.com/lf5oszp

I like the "conical top" version, but YMMV.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 13:05:19 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>, "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4c697f41.afa587.140b6b44426.Webtop.47@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 15:03:14 -0400
	a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:17
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	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] nylocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How warm (hot) does the linkage get? I suspect that nylock nuts will loose 
their grip if they get hot enough to soften the plastic insert.

There is a different version that uses a deformed section of thread instead 
of the plastic insert. I think Stiff Nut is a trade name.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt104d.htm

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 2:20 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] nylocks


> On the linkage kit for my Weber carbs, there are nylocks that hold the
> bolts that hold the dog bones to the linkage arms. Yesterday I lost one
> of the nylocks and thus the linkage came loose. (A very scary situation
> with an engine with less than 500 miles on it suddenly not running very
> well!!! Thankfully it was easily diagnosed and fixed enough to get
> home!)
>
> Has anyone ever experienced a nylock failing to hold or backing off?
> These were new when they were installed.
>
> Since these connections need to be loose with no binding, should I go
> with a couple jam nuts locked together on each bolt instead of nylocks
> or just stick with nylocks and carry extras?
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ejrussell@mebtel.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 13:20:36 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 12:20:04 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] stupid cell  phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have relatively modest cell phone needs.  I use a cheap (free) 
Tracfone and buy more minutes once a year.  It works for what I need but 
doesn't work in Canada, at least, not reliably.  Since I live in WA I go 
to Canada occasionally, usually on my motorcycle, and cell phone 
coverage is kind of a nice thing to have.

Could I buy a cheap, unlocked GSM phone on Amazon, like this one, for 
example,

> http://www.amazon.com/BLU-T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+phone

put the SIM card from my Tracfone in it, and then buy a prepaid SIM card 
in Canada?  If yes, do the phone number and  minutes I have accumulated 
on my US Tracfone reside on the sim card, and will the phone number and 
minutes just transfer on to the new phone?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 14:31:58 2013
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 15:27:38 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6h0T9Z4SUEf0uyTeqk3agzdIeYzw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Shop-talk] Eaton compressors?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a new compressor pump for my big upright compressor.  Anyone have any
experience with Eaton compressors, out of Ohio?  AFAIK they're not any
relation to the big Eaton Corporation, Eaton superchargers, or etc.
Different, small company.

 

Their compressors are all cast iron, and they say they have parts made other
places but assemble and test and warrantee everything out of Ohio - the
warrantee is 3 years.

This is the model I'm considering.

 

http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/518643/6414555.htm

 

It's not as cheap as many others available, but sounds to be a better unit.

 

Thanks!
Karl
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 14:32:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 15:27:38 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <4c697f41.afa587.140b6b44426.Webtop.47@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] nylocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Nylocks are not spec'ed to be reusable, so if you had to tweak them a 
bit, they may have not been able to lock as designed. I know it is 
redundant, but thread locker can be used with lock nuts of any type 
"just to be sure"

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Tim

> On the linkage kit for my Weber carbs, there are nylocks that hold the
> bolts that hold the dog bones to the linkage arms. Yesterday I lost one
> of the nylocks and thus the linkage came loose. (A very scary situation
> with an engine with less than 500 miles on it suddenly not running very
> well!!! Thankfully it was easily diagnosed and fixed enough to get
> home!)
>
> Has anyone ever experienced a nylock failing to hold or backing off?
> These were new when they were installed.
>
> Since these connections need to be loose with no binding, should I go
> with a couple jam nuts locked together on each bolt instead of nylocks
> or just stick with nylocks and carry extras?
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 16:06:17 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 18:06:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] nylocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks all. I didn't even think about the heat coming off this wee 
beasty of a stroker. I bet  that is it. Lock nuts of some sort coming.

Thanks again!!
tim


On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 1:20 PM, Tim wrote:

> On the linkage kit for my Weber carbs, there are nylocks that hold the 
> bolts that hold the dog bones to the linkage arms. Yesterday I lost 
> one of the nylocks and thus the linkage came loose. (A very scary 
> situation with an engine with less than 500 miles on it suddenly not 
> running very well!!! Thankfully it was easily diagnosed and fixed 
> enough to get home!)
>
> Has anyone ever experienced a nylock failing to hold or backing off? 
> These were new when they were installed.
>
> Since these connections need to be loose with no binding, should I go 
> with a couple jam nuts locked together on each bolt instead of nylocks 
> or just stick with nylocks and carry extras?
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 21:34:58 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 23:34:36 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pipe Threading
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Guys,
Question about pipe threading. My garage / shop is partially below grade 
on the bottom level of my house. It has an original propane water heater 
that has been replaced with an electric unit in a different place (long 
story.)

I want to remove it to free up space in the corner of the garage where 
it's sitting. I can cap off the water supply lines no prob. Problem is 
-- there is a black iron threaded gas supply line that drops down from 
the sheetrock ceiling to 2' above the floor. Not sure how to cap-off or 
remove it.

Whatever fitting it threads into is inaccessible in the ceiling. I don't 
want 7 feet of pipe hanging down. Is it feasible to saw off the pipe, 
somehow thread it, and put a cap on? Ideally, I'd just put a pipe wrench 
on the fitting, and replace it with a pipe nipple & cap.

-Thanks, Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 21:49:04 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 20:48:53 -0700
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pipe Threading
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com> wrote: 
> Is it feasible to saw off the pipe, 
> somehow thread it, and put a cap on? 

Sounds feasible to me, if you are reasonably coordinated.  You'll need a pipe threader to fit your pipe; then you're going to be standing on a ladder, holding the pipe with one hand and the threader with the other while laying into the threader with a fair amount of force.
http://tinyurl.com/l79hgoa

I might think about giving the gardener $20 to do it for me.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 21:50:53 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:22.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/22.0 SeaMonkey/2.19
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <521ACCCC.5070204@xxiii.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pipe Threading
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Given the low pressure of natural gas lines, I'd try cutting the pipe, 
using a tap to
thread it internally and putting a plug in it, rather than threading the 
outside.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:07:24 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <521A58E4.8080708@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell  phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

No one else answered, so I'll take a shot at it--the SIM card is the 
brain of the phone. The minutes and number go with the SIM card. So when 
you swap SIM cards, you get a new number, different minutes, etc. For 
all intents and purposes it's a different phone once you swap SIM cards.

But let one of the EEs on here tell you for sure. That's just my 
experience in Europe. I assume any GSM system would operate the same, 
but I'm not a phone network engineer.

Scott

On 8/25/2013 3:20 PM, Dave C wrote:
> I have relatively modest cell phone needs.  I use a cheap (free) 
> Tracfone and buy more minutes once a year.  It works for what I need 
> but doesn't work in Canada, at least, not reliably.  Since I live in 
> WA I go to Canada occasionally, usually on my motorcycle, and cell 
> phone coverage is kind of a nice thing to have.
>
> Could I buy a cheap, unlocked GSM phone on Amazon, like this one, for 
> example,
>
>> http://www.amazon.com/BLU-T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+phone 
>>
>
> put the SIM card from my Tracfone in it, and then buy a prepaid SIM 
> card in Canada?  If yes, do the phone number and  minutes I have 
> accumulated on my US Tracfone reside on the sim card, and will the 
> phone number and minutes just transfer on to the new phone?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 08:22:51 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <521A58E4.8080708@frontier.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:22:46 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell  phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there a Canadian equivalent of the Tracfone available ... one where you 
simply pay for the minutes?

Maybe just get one when you are in Canada and then carry it with you when 
ever you travel in Canada. Yes, two numbers but at least you would have 
"call out" ability for emergencies and those that you share the second 
number with would be able to get a hold of you.

Arvid

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave C
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 2:20 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] stupid cell phone question

I have relatively modest cell phone needs.  I use a cheap (free)
Tracfone and buy more minutes once a year.  It works for what I need but
doesn't work in Canada, at least, not reliably.  Since I live in WA I go
to Canada occasionally, usually on my motorcycle, and cell phone
coverage is kind of a nice thing to have.

Could I buy a cheap, unlocked GSM phone on Amazon, like this one, for
example,

> http://www.amazon.com/BLU-T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+phone

put the SIM card from my Tracfone in it, and then buy a prepaid SIM card
in Canada?  If yes, do the phone number and  minutes I have accumulated
on my US Tracfone reside on the sim card, and will the phone number and
minutes just transfer on to the new phone? 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 08:45:43 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cea1d1$8b4cb520$a1e61f60$@Ameritech.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 09:41:46 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Eaton compressors?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I do not have any experience with Eaton but the picture ... even down to the 
sight glass for the oil level ... and the specifications of the compressor 
in the link look exactly like the one that I have on the model I518VC2 
compressor I bought from 
http://www.aircompressorsplus.com/Air-Compressors/Industrial-Series/.

I have had the compressor for a number of years. It is in the basement and 
with the air intake muffler installed ... looks like this but came with the 
compressor and not from Grainger ... 
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SOLBERG-InletDischarge-Silencers-3TKZ2?Pid=search 
... to address the intake noise it is quiet enough that Bev has never said 
anything about it.

Performance is all I will ever need and maintenance is a "change the oil 
ever 300 hours of use", or about every three or four years in my case.

Arvid

-----Original Message----- 
From: Karl Vacek
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 3:27 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Eaton compressors?

I need a new compressor pump for my big upright compressor.  Anyone have any
experience with Eaton compressors, out of Ohio?  AFAIK they're not any
relation to the big Eaton Corporation, Eaton superchargers, or etc.
Different, small company.

Their compressors are all cast iron, and they say they have parts made other
places but assemble and test and warrantee everything out of Ohio - the
warrantee is 3 years.

This is the model I'm considering.

http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/518643/6414555.htm

It's not as cheap as many others available, but sounds to be a better unit.

Thanks! 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <521A58E4.8080708@frontier.com> <521B611C.2060201@gmail.com>
From: Miq Millman <miq@bigllama.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 08:24:07 -0700
To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tracfone uses both GSM (removable SIMcard) and CDMA (non-removable SIM
card) phones for their service, and allows their customer to piggyback on
existing carriers.  You can determine which carrier you are using by the
leading characters of the SIM card, it will say something like SIMT for
T-Mobile or SIMC for ATT/Cingular.  The point is, if you are using a CDMA
based tracfone, it will be on Verizon or Sprint, and you won't be able to
swap out a foreign card.

Pulling the SIM will allow you to move the number to another phone, but you
will not keep you r local Washington State number if you put in a Canada
Rogers SIM--you will then have a British Columbia based number.

Depending on how the Tracfone stores the contact information, you may have
access to it.  So the question for you is do you have a CDMA or a GSM
Tracfone?



--
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions


On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 7:07 AM, Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>wrote:

> No one else answered, so I'll take a shot at it--the SIM card is the brain
> of the phone. The minutes and number go with the SIM card. So when you swap
> SIM cards, you get a new number, different minutes, etc. For all intents
> and purposes it's a different phone once you swap SIM cards.
>
> But let one of the EEs on here tell you for sure. That's just my
> experience in Europe. I assume any GSM system would operate the same, but
> I'm not a phone network engineer.
>
> Scott
>
> On 8/25/2013 3:20 PM, Dave C wrote:
>
>> I have relatively modest cell phone needs.  I use a cheap (free) Tracfone
>> and buy more minutes once a year.  It works for what I need but doesn't
>> work in Canada, at least, not reliably.  Since I live in WA I go to Canada
>> occasionally, usually on my motorcycle, and cell phone coverage is kind of
>> a nice thing to have.
>>
>> Could I buy a cheap, unlocked GSM phone on Amazon, like this one, for
>> example,
>>
>>  http://www.amazon.com/BLU-**T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-**
>>> Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=**sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&**
>>> sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+**phone<http://www.amazon.com/BLU-T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+phone>
>>>
>>
>> put the SIM card from my Tracfone in it, and then buy a prepaid SIM card
>> in Canada?  If yes, do the phone number and  minutes I have accumulated on
>> my US Tracfone reside on the sim card, and will the phone number and
>> minutes just transfer on to the new phone?
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/shop-talk/miq@
> **bigllama.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com>
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 11:26:49 -0400
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave-

Your SIM card carries your account information, and (if you store your
numbers there, and not in the phone itself) your contacts, albeit in the
limited way that a SIM can (only 250 contacts, name and number only).

Warning: Your existing Tracfone SIM may not work in a non-Tracfone unit.
See here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TracFone_Wireless#TracFone

You may find that you want to change to a different pre-paid carrier in
order to enable the ability to swap SIMs when you cross the border,
otherwise, you may have to carry two phones.

Any "unlocked" GSM/GPRS/EDGE compatible phone (similar to what you linked
to earlier), should be compatible with any Rodgers Wireless pre-paid
offering in Canada as well as with AT&T/T-Mobile offerings. You will
increase the areas where it works if you get a phone that also has 3G
(HSPA) capability like the Samsung Rugby 2 that I got for my FIL:

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Rugby-A847-Unlocked-Ruggedized/dp/B005SHQHSE.

If he has not broken it in the 2.5 years he has had it, it *must* be tough.

I would just stop by a Rodgers retail location when you're next up there
and pick up a SIM. Here is a link to their talk-only plans, though they
have several different ones, in case texting is important:

http://www.rogers.com/web/content/wireless-products/plans?cm_sp=wireless-_-pay_as_you_go-_-plans_banner#,Tabset1--3,,,,

You should be able to test it out with your current phone or with your new
phone.

One other note - you could also look at Republic Wireless, which offers
flat-rate US-based $20/mo or $30/mo unlimited talk/text/data plans that
permit roaming (at no additional cost) in Canada. US coverage is very good,
with Sprint as the primary and Verizon where Sprint isn't - and wifi any
time it can get it. I have been happy with the service, and with the use of
wifi for voice/text/data whenever it can, places that have only wifi
internet and no cell coverage (like my house), the phone works just fine!

http://www.republicwireless.com/

NFI, just a happy customer. Happy to answer any questions, too.

-Peter




On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> I have relatively modest cell phone needs.  I use a cheap (free) Tracfone
> and buy more minutes once a year.  It works for what I need but doesn't
> work in Canada, at least, not reliably.  Since I live in WA I go to Canada
> occasionally, usually on my motorcycle, and cell phone coverage is kind of
> a nice thing to have.
>
> Could I buy a cheap, unlocked GSM phone on Amazon, like this one, for
> example,
>
>  http://www.amazon.com/BLU-**T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-**
>> Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=**sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&**
>> sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+**phone<http://www.amazon.com/BLU-T190i-RD-Unlocked-Quad-Band-Bluetooth/dp/B00AA6WTOO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1377457163&sr=8-8&keywords=unlocked+gsm+phone>
>>
>
> put the SIM card from my Tracfone in it, and then buy a prepaid SIM card
> in Canada?  If yes, do the phone number and  minutes I have accumulated on
> my US Tracfone reside on the sim card, and will the phone number and
> minutes just transfer on to the new phone?
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/shop-talk/**
> peterwmurray@gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com>
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: koblinger@verizon.net
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Timing Light Recommendations
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 18:28:52 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:06:01 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/26/2013 20:05:59, Serialize complete at
	08/26/2013 20:05:59
Subject: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
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OK, if you remember, I asked about a 1991 2500 Chevy pick up that had been 
sitting for 5 years.

We got it running, and it failed inspection for hydrocarbons being too 
high (they were 466 and max allowed was 220ppm)
The CO%  was very low (.68)

So, I checked all the vacuums and they were good.  I changed the wires, 
plugs, rotor, distributor cap, and air cleaner.

After that, the HC were dropped to 240ppm (20 points too high.)  The CO% 
went up to .94  (still under the max of 1.20.)

So, I'm guessing that I can get it down with an additive or running really 
hot (or cold.)

What is the collective wisdom of what I can do next to get the last 20 
points?  Free is best.

Thanks in advance!


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:37:40 -0400
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is the crankcase rebreather working? What about the catalytic converter?
Oxygen sensors?

-Peter
On Aug 26, 2013 8:29 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> OK, if you remember, I asked about a 1991 2500 Chevy pick up that had been
> sitting for 5 years.
>
> We got it running, and it failed inspection for hydrocarbons being too
> high (they were 466 and max allowed was 220ppm)
> The CO%  was very low (.68)
>
> So, I checked all the vacuums and they were good.  I changed the wires,
> plugs, rotor, distributor cap, and air cleaner.
>
> After that, the HC were dropped to 240ppm (20 points too high.)  The CO%
> went up to .94  (still under the max of 1.20.)
>
> So, I'm guessing that I can get it down with an additive or running really
> hot (or cold.)
>
> What is the collective wisdom of what I can do next to get the last 20
> points?  Free is best.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 19:01:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--------------------------------------------
(snip)

So, I'm guessing that I can get it down with an additive or
 running really
 hot (or cold.)

 What is the collective wisdom of what I can do next to get
 the last 20
 points?  Free is best.

(snip)

============================

Raise the idle by a hundred or two hundred and make sure the engine is warm
when you get tested.

At one point I had to raise the idle by 400rpms and I kinda covered up the
tach. I got caught once and went back later that same day to someone else and
passed with the high idle. Thankfully that testing crap has been gone for a
few years now and the car still runs. It took a few months but I did
eventually fix.
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:18:27 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
References: <521A58E4.8080708@frontier.com>
	<F6D56161DF8340AA85C6AE8F8D1DD1A5@HP62011>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell  phone question
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There might be one but I have not been able to find it.  Most of the 
prepaid plans require monthly payments, and nothing I have seen seems to 
approach the low cost of the Tracfone.


On 8/26/2013 7:22 AM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
> Is there a Canadian equivalent of the Tracfone available ... one where 
> you simply pay for the minutes? 
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5218F0FE.8020908@frontier.com><CAOtbU9Vgnb4JXytghN=i93M57aLmNLEM17M1BJ9bHhfezsXoLA@mail.gmail.com><5218FCBC.6000005@frontier.com>
	<6FBE3AF5DBBC4F449F164EB77FE50FEA@CAD>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 21:15:24 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6g+KH3AFz8I/EESPmiFMaMPx5kgwABB7LAAHenTwA=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hypothetical thoughts follow:

The capacitors will bleed down a lot faster than a battery, but you might be
able to run a very small motorcycle battery to recharge them.  The kicker is
that capacitors can dump a huge amount of current in a short time, whereas a
battery has to be much larger to provide the same instantaneous current.

I run a capacitor in tandem with my batteries in our RC planes.  When the
control surfaces are loaded and being worked hard, they will respond faster
with the Capacitor in the system, giving the impression of having a much
larger battery (more amps) to power them, yet it is a much lighter system.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Armstrong
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 12:07 PM
To: 'Shop Talk List'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery

Any thoughts on how this would work in a car with no charging system, such
as a Formula Ford with a race time of 1/2 hr.?

A simple way of shedding some weight.

Doug Armstong

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave C
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 2:35 PM
To: Doug Braun
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using ultra capacitors to replace car battery

Quite a few in the videos.  It never did crank very long, but started 
right up, even at lower (less than 12) voltages.  Recharge time was very 
quick, too.


On 8/24/2013 11:17 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> How many tries does he get to start the car?
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong@nexicom.net



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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 04:18:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] nylocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You got a plain nut?
You got a big vise?
You got an all-temperature locknut.  Just "oval" it a little bit...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
> To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 5:06:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] nylocks
> Thanks all. I didn't even think about the heat coming off this wee
> beasty of a stroker. I bet that is it. Lock nuts of some sort coming.
> 
> Thanks again!!
> tim
> 
> 
> On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 1:20 PM, Tim wrote:
> 
> > On the linkage kit for my Weber carbs, there are nylocks that hold
> > the
> > bolts that hold the dog bones to the linkage arms. Yesterday I lost
> > one of the nylocks and thus the linkage came loose. (A very scary
> > situation with an engine with less than 500 miles on it suddenly not
> > running very well!!! Thankfully it was easily diagnosed and fixed
> > enough to get home!)
> >
> > Has anyone ever experienced a nylock failing to hold or backing off?
> > These were new when they were installed.
> >
> > Since these connections need to be loose with no binding, should I
> > go
> > with a couple jam nuts locked together on each bolt instead of
> > nylocks
> > or just stick with nylocks and carry extras?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > tim
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.96
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 07:46:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 09:46:08 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a spare Tracfone, that we bought for my mother-in-law when she was
visiting from overseas.
It cost only seven dollars, and I just added 365 days of service for $50.
That's $4.17 a month!
The actual airtime is about 13 cents a minute, but if you hardly ever use
the phone, it's
the best deal I have ever seen for that sort of usage model.

Their service quality seems fine, and the web-based customer service is OK,
too.

Doug


On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 11:18 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> There might be one but I have not been able to find it.  Most of the
> prepaid plans require monthly payments, and nothing I have seen seems to
> approach the low cost of the Tracfone.
>
>
> On 8/26/2013 7:22 AM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
>
>> Is there a Canadian equivalent of the Tracfone available ... one where
>> you simply pay for the minutes?
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 14:22:28 2013
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 16:21:54 -0400
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell phone question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave-

If you travel up to Canada enough, it might be worth it to pick up a cheap
unlocked flip phone like those discussed earlier in the thread, and just
get the Rogers prepaid SIM. The talk/text Rodgers plan I thought might fit
you best still had a CA$ 0.75/mo fee, but with a minimum top-up amount of
$20 and pretty reasonable per-minute rates. If you were to drop $100 in, it
would last a year. Otherwise, you can drop in increments down to CA$10 or
CA$20, depending on the "plan" you wanted.

There is conflicting info on whether the Tracfone will work in Cananda or
not, though I'm inclined to believe the forum answers supplied by Tracfone
reps...

https://www.tracfoneforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6200&t=182655&p=443124&hilit=canada#p443124

Less than $60/year to have a US domestic mobile phone available if needed
is indeed a good deal, Doug!

-Peter



On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 12:00 AM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the link to the Wikipedia article.  If true, and I suspect it
> is, I am probably out of luck as far as using the Tracfone sim in another
> phone.  I have heard that Tracfone has their network screwed down pretty
> tight.
>
> Republic Wireless looks pretty good if I was looking at switching from a
> conventional carrier, BUT they apparently require you to buy one of their
> smartphones, and the minimum monthly charge is $20, which, while modest, is
> still more than twice my effective cost.  I pay about $100 a year for
> minutes and don't use all of them, or even come close, and I really, really
> don't want a smartphone.
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From: "ElanS4" <ElanS4@cox.net>
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 18:10:34 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
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eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
>I changed the wires, plugs, rotor, distributor cap, and air cleaner.

After you changed the distributor cap, etc., did you get out the old timing
light?  Slight changes in the timing can make big changes in the emissions.

Also, as far as upping the idle and hoping you don't get caught, I just had
my car tested today - it passed.  The readout includes the idle speed, and
if the idle is not in the proper range, it automatically fails.  You can set
it to the high side of "normal" but not too high.

Tim Mullen
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 16:55:39 2013
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When Minnesota had testing I know of an individual that would buy a gallon 
of alcohol at the paint store, add it to a less than half full gas tank, 
drive the mile and a half from the Big Box Store to the testing station, 
pass the test with flying colors, then immediately drive two blocks to the 
gas station and fill the tank with gas as that much alcohol can be tough on 
the fuel system.

Maybe only a quart would have done the job. Who knows.

Eventually Minnesota dropped the nonsense.

Arvid 
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From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] stupid cell phone question
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If you are close enough to the border you can usually get service, often 
all the way to Vancouver, but it gets spotty.  Plus, if you do it for 
very long Tracfone gets pretty snotty about it, from what I understand.

Yeah, one of the cheap Rogers phones would probably be the way to go if 
I keep my TF service down here.


On 8/27/2013 1:21 PM, Peter Murray wrote:
>
> There is conflicting info on whether the Tracfone will work in Cananda 
> or not, though I'm inclined to believe the forum answers supplied by 
> Tracfone reps...
>
> https://www.tracfoneforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6200&t=182655&p=443124&hilit=canada#p443124
>
> Less than $60/year to have a US domestic mobile phone available if 
> needed is indeed a good deal, Doug!
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 05:21:59 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 07:02:18 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/28/2013 07:02:18, Serialize complete at
	08/28/2013 07:02:18
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there a way to test O2 sensors?  I'm guessing the cat isn't poisoned 
since it doesn't smell.  How do I check a crankcase rebreather?  This is a 
91, so there is no OBD II Connector.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com> 
08/26/2013 08:19 PM

To
eric@megageek.com
cc
shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons






Is the crankcase rebreather working? What about the catalytic converter? 
Oxygen sensors?
-Peter
On Aug 26, 2013 8:29 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
OK, if you remember, I asked about a 1991 2500 Chevy pick up that had been
sitting for 5 years.

We got it running, and it failed inspection for hydrocarbons being too
high (they were 466 and max allowed was 220ppm)
The CO%  was very low (.68)

So, I checked all the vacuums and they were good.  I changed the wires,
plugs, rotor, distributor cap, and air cleaner.

After that, the HC were dropped to 240ppm (20 points too high.)  The CO%
went up to .94  (still under the max of 1.20.)

So, I'm guessing that I can get it down with an additive or running really
hot (or cold.)

What is the collective wisdom of what I can do next to get the last 20
points?  Free is best.

Thanks in advance!


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAJ8HLP8JA4BaYDjetpJ7228Z1+uxKqgQNAOr1F-0SajH-9n3GQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<OF671062BD.C2BB8478-ON85257BD5.003DAF5B-85257BD5.003E288D@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 07:48:22 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

O2 sensors are pretty cheap, and I've changed the one on my '93 Suburban
every 50,000 or so.  Given the similarity of vehicles and years, I'm
guessing it's pretty much identical to the setup on your truck.  Suburban
almost always runs better with a new O2 sensor.  The sensor should be on the
driver's side of the Y pipe at the back of the engine - easy to get to under
the hood.  I think it takes a 7/8" box wrench?

As far as the cat, there's a YouTube video where a guy uses a gallon of
alcohol in half a tank (regular car - 10 gallons?) of gas and claims it
usually cleans his converter pretty well.  For harder cases he takes the cat
out and soaks it overnight in a bucket of water with regular laundry
detergent, hoses it out, and reinstalls it.  YMMV   ;-)

When my cat went out on the Suburban (at maybe 150,000 miles?) I replaced it
with a rebuilt original.  Passed emissions better than new - really - and
wasn't loud like the tiny Walker ones that cost just as much.  Still passed
easily till a couple of years ago the People's Republic of Illinois finally
stopped testing pre-OBDII vehicles.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: eric@megageek.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons

Is there a way to test O2 sensors?  I'm guessing the cat isn't poisoned
since it doesn't smell.  How do I check a crankcase rebreather?  This is a
91, so there is no OBD II Connector.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 07:01:38 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF671062BD.C2BB8478-ON85257BD5.003DAF5B-85257BD5.003E288D@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 08:58:23 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
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> Is there a way to test O2 sensors?

A working O2 sensor puts out 0.1-0.9 DC volts. This can easily be measured 
with a digital voltmeter (even my eL-Cheapo Harbor Freight voltmeter). With 
the engine warmed up (the sensor has to be hot to work), find the lead for 
the sensor. (There may be 3 or 4 leads if the sensor also has a heater built 
in.) Connect your voltmeter's positive lead to the sensor lead & the 
negative lead to ground. Do this leaving the sensor connected to the 
vehicle's wire harness so the computer will remain in 'closed loop mode' 
(receiving & sending signals). Thusly connected start the engine. Run it at 
2000rpm for a minute or two to make sure the exhaust & the sensor is fully 
warm.) At idle a working O2 sensor will be putting out an average of 0.5V. 
If the computer is in closed loop mode the measured signal will constantly 
vary as the computer richens/leans the mixture around the 'ideal'. If the 
reading is steady then the computer will usually assume the sensor is not 
functioning, ignore its signal and default to a pre-programmed fuel map - 
typically slightly richer than ideal.

If the sensor is more than 60,000 - 90,000 miles old it is likely at the end 
of its useful life. As they get old they get 'slow'. When it gets really 
slow the computer ignores it.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 07:38:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Pre_OBD II still had a diagnostic connector that you could short to see if there are any codes. (at least my cars did.)

Brian



>________________________________
> From: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 7:02 AM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
> 
>
>(snip) This is a 91, so there is no OBD II Connector.
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 09:00:23 2013
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 08:59:57 -0600
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
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To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ8HLP8JA4BaYDjetpJ7228Z1+uxKqgQNAOr1F-0SajH-9n3GQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
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On 8/28/2013 8:38 AM, Battmain wrote:
> Pre_OBD II still had a diagnostic connector that you could short to see if there are any codes. (at least my cars did.)
>
>

Pre-OBD, GM used what was known as the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic 
Link), usually a 12-pin connector buried in the dash. Jumpering pins A & 
B initiated flash codes on the check engine light.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 09:10:43 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 10:53:14 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/28/2013 10:51:10, Serialize complete at
	08/28/2013 10:51:10
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
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There is a connector that my OBD II connector doesn't fix.  How do I 
'short' it to get the codes?

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
08/28/2013 10:22 AM
Please respond to
Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>


To
shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons






Pre_OBD II still had a diagnostic connector that you could short to see if 
there are any codes. (at least my cars did.)

Brian



>________________________________
> From: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 7:02 AM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
> 
>
>(snip) This is a 91, so there is no OBD II Connector.
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 10:10:57 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 9:38 AM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Pre_OBD II still had a diagnostic connector that you could short to see if
> there are any codes. (at least my cars did.)
>
>
>
91 GM stuff sure did, too.  But it's specialized, and if you don't have a
tool, maybe not worth it.  It's pretty easy to monitor the o2 sensor
voltages, with a cheap (or not cheap, if you've got one) DVM.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 10:27:20 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 16:25:38 GMT
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would think if the O2 sensor was out of range it would turn on a check
engine light.I was pleased to learn that my daughter's 91 E30 BMW had a
procedure where you short 2 pins on thier special BMW interface connector to
enable a check engine light blinking capability where you could read the
codes.  Not sure if the domestic stuff had something similar or not.


Matt
---------- Original Message ----------
From: eric@megageek.com
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 10:53:14 -0400

There is a connector that my OBD II connector doesn't fix.  How do I
'short' it to get the codes?

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson




Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
08/28/2013 10:22 AM
Please respond to
Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>


To
shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons






Pre_OBD II still had a diagnostic connector that you could short to see if
there are any codes. (at least my cars did.)

Brian



>________________________________
> From: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 7:02 AM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
>
>
>(snip) This is a 91, so there is no OBD II Connector.
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <1377700688.48105.YahooMailNeo@web140004.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<OFDE49901F.6E1DB876-ON85257BD5.00518077-85257BD5.00534D3F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 12:24:44 -0500
Thread-Index: AQGCuHi1gd0nsPXNJYd37YVuwW3NbJpCsoOg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The connector is usually mounted somewhere under the edge of the dash near
the driver's right knee, though that location isn't guaranteed.  There
should be two adjacent pins on one end, and the connector will be missing
part of the separator between the two pins you want.  Short those two while
the key is ON.

A paper clip straightened into a long "U" works pretty well, and usually
it'll slip into place and stay there till you're finished.  One contact is a
ground, so you're not going to have an issue with accidentally grounding the
paper clip out while checking.

You count the flashes on the "Check Engine" light (called a MIL for
Malfunction Indicator Light in service publications).

The old GM standard was to flash 1 2 first, then whatever codes are set,
then end with 5 5.  It cycles through each code twice.  If all you get is 1
2 and then 5 5, there are no codes set.

A shop manual will usually give the codes, or Google them, or ask here.  If
nobody has the exact manual, I have a 93 GMC manual that should cover your
codes too.


-----Original Message-----
From:  eric@megageek.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons

There is a connector that my OBD II connector doesn't fix.  How do I 'short'
it to get the codes?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 11:52:06 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 10:51:57 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6kC4E66O7EJ0sMRqaly2vOqN8JkAAB8Hqw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I would think if the O2 sensor was out of range it would turn 
> on a check
> engine light.

I agree, if the ECU has gone into limp mode, then it will certainly light
the trouble light.  But, O2 sensors usually fail gradually, so it still may
be that a new sensor will improve tailpipe emissions.

>I was pleased to learn that my daughter's 91 E30 
> BMW had a
> procedure where you short 2 pins on thier special BMW 
> interface connector to
> enable a check engine light blinking capability where you 
> could read the
> codes. 

I think that has been a standard feature, ever since trouble codes were
invented.  In addition, most cars have a magic sequence that will flash the
codes (or at least a subset of them).  I forget the exact sequence for my GM
car offhand, but it's something like hold the accelerator partway down and
turn the key on-off-on-off-on with a 2 second pause in each position.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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	<OFDE49901F.6E1DB876-ON85257BD5.00518077-85257BD5.00534D3F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 11:04:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You'll probably need to dig a bit for the info for your particular car. The
connectors on my cars were over on the passenger side.  Normally it was a
three conductor assembly. The special (read expensive) J-tool to 'short' the
connector was a piece of conductive metal, which in my case was easily
replicated with a piece of wire. Then you turned the key to 'on' and any
stored codes were blinked at you on the dash. Kinda like blink, blink, blink,
pause, blink, blink, blink, blink, pause, then it repeated again. 

Brian
>________________________________
> From: "eric@megageek.com"
<eric@megageek.com>
>To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net 
>Cc: Battmain
<battmain@yahoo.com> 
>Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 10:53 AM
>Subject: Re:
[Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
> 
>
>
>
>There is a connector that my OBD II
connector doesn't fix.  How do I 'short' it to get the codes?  
>
>
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 13:08:43 2013
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	<1377713061.66471.YahooMailNeo@web140003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 15:08:33 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
Cc: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Some of the 80's GM cars would show the fault codes on the radio when you
put it in diagnostic mode, but you had to have the GM radio.  Not sure how
far into the 90's that persisted.

Ben.....

On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:04 PM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:

> You'll probably need to dig a bit for the info for your particular car. The
> connectors on my cars were over on the passenger side.  Normally it was a
> three conductor assembly. The special (read expensive) J-tool to 'short'
> the
> connector was a piece of conductive metal, which in my case was easily
> replicated with a piece of wire. Then you turned the key to 'on' and any
> stored codes were blinked at you on the dash. Kinda like blink, blink,
> blink,
> pause, blink, blink, blink, blink, pause, then it repeated again.
>
> Brian
> >________________________________
> > From: "eric@megageek.com"
> <eric@megageek.com>
> >To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> >Cc: Battmain
> <battmain@yahoo.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 10:53 AM
> >Subject: Re:
> [Shop-talk] High Hydrocarbons
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >There is a connector that my OBD II
> connector doesn't fix.  How do I 'short' it to get the codes?
> >
> >
> >(snip)
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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	<20130826034853.0P7UL.102510.root@cdptpa-web31-z02>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 21:56:19 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Pipe Threading
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 10:48 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ---- Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com> wrote:
> > Is it feasible to saw off the pipe,
> > somehow thread it, and put a cap on?
>
> Sounds feasible to me, if you are reasonably coordinated.  You'll need a
> pipe threader to fit your pipe; then you're going to be standing on a
> ladder, holding the pipe with one hand and the threader with the other
> while laying into the threader with a fair amount of force.
> http://tinyurl.com/l79hgoa
>
> I might think about giving the gardener $20 to do it for me.
>
>
The other alternative is to cut the line somewhere else more accessible,
and put the cap there.



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 11:06:32 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 11:49:42 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 08/29/2013 11:50:01, Serialize complete at
	08/29/2013 11:50:01
Subject: [Shop-talk] High hydrocarbons (the resolution)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well last night we tried a few more things on the truck with the high 
hydrocarbons and it passed!!

What we did last night was...

Replace the O2 sensor, add fuel injector cleaner, used Premium fuel, clean 
and reinstall batteries terminals, add tranny fluid (unrelated), and bench 
test the MAP sensor.

Also, we check the OBD I read out, but there were no codes stored. (we did 
this prior to removing the battery.)

So that got us there.

For the record, other things we did prior were...
New wires, plugs, cap, rotor, air cleaner.  Checked the vacuums, 

FWIW, they did check the idle to make sure it wasn't elevated.

So, thanks to everyone here for all your help.  we took a $700 truck and 
turned it into a $1500 truck for about $300!  (Now that I say it out loud, 
it wasn't worth the time!)  8>)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 17:45:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] .25mm too big
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I bought longer bolts for the linkage on my webers so I could use two 
regurlar nuts locked together instead of nylocks. They are M5-.8 and are 
approx one quarter of one mm too big to fit through the linkage pivots. 
The bolts that came with the kit are also M5-.8.

M4s have too much slop and SAE bolts were too big as well.

I ran the new bolts through a die cutter but not much (enought) was cut 
off (as expected).

I really don't want to try to drill out the linkage pivot and take a 
chance of generating heat and screwing up the rubber bushing.

Thoughts please on what I can do to narrow down the bolts. Maybe a small 
round file to try to open up the hole??

Thanks

tim
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 22:21:26 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] .25mm too big
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A regular number 10 screw, such as a 10-32, is smaller than a M5 screw by
a few thousanths of an inch. You might want to try before you modify the
linkage.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> I bought longer bolts for the linkage on my webers so I could use two
> regurlar nuts locked together instead of nylocks. They are M5-.8 and are
> approx one quarter of one mm too big to fit through the linkage pivots.
> The bolts that came with the kit are also M5-.8.
>
> M4s have too much slop and SAE bolts were too big as well.
>
> I ran the new bolts through a die cutter but not much (enought) was cut
> off (as expected).
>
> I really don't want to try to drill out the linkage pivot and take a
> chance of generating heat and screwing up the rubber bushing.
>
> Thoughts please on what I can do to narrow down the bolts. Maybe a small
> round file to try to open up the hole??
>
> Thanks
>
> tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

