Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?

From: Ronnie Day <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:02:20 -0500

I'm going to state what I suspect is running through your mind. It depnds
on how much and how far the rust has penitrated the rails, if it has. Like
you said, you can pretty much build a new/old truck from catalogs, if you
care to write the check. If you decide to do ithe truck, I'd plan a frame
off to clean up and paint, maybe powder coat, the frame. You'll probably
pull the body to work on it anyway.

You might figure out what you think it'll cost you to buy and fix up the
truck, add 15%, then see what you can buy now for that amount. That's not
icluding your time, of course. Then again, maybe you're already looking at
it as a project.

FWIW,
Ron

On Monday, July 29, 2013, Pat Horne wrote:

> Living in Texas and growing up on the west coast I am not very familiar
> with the affects of rust on vehicles.
>
>
> I have been offered a 2000 Chevy extended cab, 4x4 pickup, 110,000 miles
> w/leather interior that looks good for its age for $5000. The problem is
> that both rocker panels are in need of replacement and about 25% of the
> paint on the frame has been replaced with surface rust. The rocker panels
> are not a big deal, but I am concerned about the frame rust. Is this
> something that a rust converter and paint will take care of, or should I
> pass on this vehicle? Other than the rust it looks to be very clean, and
> everything works on it!
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
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From: John Innis <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 07:20:29 -0500

The frame rust is generally not a big deal, especially if the truck is
being moved out of the corrosive environment.  There are some places where
the rust is going to be a pain in the rear when you go to work on the
truck, as fasteners will be rusty, difficult to remove, and need to be
replaced instead of reused.  I have an '88 Chevy pickup with a fair amount
of frame rust that has been a midwest plow truck all it's life and I have
no major issues with it.  I also have a '95 Suburban that has 240k on it,
all in Iowa, all in snow ice and salt.  The only issue I had on the
Suburban was the hard fuel lines at the tank rusting out, and that didn't
happen till last year at 220k.  You do need to be more careful of trucks
that have been wrecked and are rusty, as these may have hidden frame
damage.  If that truck were offered to me today, I'd take it.  It is a good
price for that year and mileage if it is all in working order.

On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 9:38 PM, Pat Horne <[email-masked]> wrote:

> options/shop-talk/jdinnis@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]>
>
>

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From: Matt Wehland <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:43:01 -0500

It's not the frame rust that will be a problem, it's everything else 
that is rusted.
Brake lines, fuel lines, every fastener, bolt, fitting.
I live in Northern IL and have had salted vehicles my whole life.
I'm in the process of replacing all the rusted out brake lines on my 
mustang is right now.
The fuel lines will be next.
The body is in good shape, but everything underneath is rusted.

Penetrating oil will be your friend, spray early, spray often.  I like 
to start spraying fasteners long before starting to work on the parts, 
if I have the chance.

The nicest vehicle I had to work on was was a Suburban from texas that 
hadn't seen salt.  It was so nice to just put a wrench to things and 
have them come apart.
Quickest repair jobs I ever did, an I finished with a smile on my face.

Just something else to keep in mind.
Matt

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From: Mark Andy <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 11:05:55 -0400

Howdy,

This has been my experience as well.

For me, dealing with significant rust is something that I don't care to do.
 It would need to be a _heck_ of a deal on a rusty vehicle that needed work
to make we want to deal with it.

Mark

On Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 10:43 AM, Matt Wehland <[email-masked]> wrote:

> It's not the frame rust that will be a problem, it's everything else that
> is rusted.
> Penetrating oil will be your friend, spray early, spray often.  I like to
> start spraying fasteners long before starting to work on the parts, if I
> have the chance.
>
> hadn't seen salt.  It was so nice to just put a wrench to things and have
> them come apart.
> options/shop-talk/marka@**maracing.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]>

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From: Jim Stone <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 11:58:34 -0500

The thing that would concern me is the amount of rust on a 2000 vehicle.  Cars
and trucks rust so much less since the introduction of galvanized sheet metal,
which was well before 2000.  I haven't seen rusted rocket panels on a 13 year
old vehicle in a long time. It makes me wonder what kind if abuse this truck
has seen.

Sent from my iPhone

>> Just something else to keep in mind.
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 13:59:23 -0400 (EDT)

I grew up in the rust belt; learned how to weld and fix (better
said...postpone) rust problems in a local body shop.
Made me decide to live in a non-rust area for the rest of my life, so I
could play with old cars without the rust issues.

restated, a 1964 Ferrari GTO or other uncommon car is worth de-rusting
along the way to making it "good" again.
a common/ easily available car, rust free, is worth any "extra" price.

example:  My wife and I flew out to Dallas, TX to buy a rust-free-life
2000 BMW M roadster; drove it home.
a month later, drove back out with my truck and trailer to pick up a 98
Roadster (minus engine) and towed it home... as a project for me.
A common practice among friends in the mid-west who live higher up... go
to TX and bring it home.

Just my opinion.... but another vote to pass on rust-belt common cars.
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