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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 09:46:32 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We're (FINALLY) closing in on the move to our new place located near BFE
about 80 miles NE of Austin. Being near BFE, cell coverage in the area is
spotty at best, almost non-existent at our place. Data is (sort of and
sometimes) there, but it is better than voice call. I do have one 50 foot
tiltover, crankup tower that I'll be put up fairly soon, primarily for an
OTA TV antenna and some ham radio antennas.
Wilson Electronics has a series of signal boosters and different antennas
that are basically low power repeaters. Wilson made their name in amateur
radio many years ago and I expect their bits to work well. I did want to
see if anyone in the group has used the Wilson gear or possibly some other
company's so I could get some real world feedback.
I might try the Verizon Network Extender, but I had one of those a couple
of years ago where we're currently living and it didn't seem to make much
difference in signal level in the house at that time. While the Wilson
System uses antennas (omni or directional) to pick the RF signal, the
Verizon box plugs into the Internet and basically provides a cell node in
your house. Looks like we'll be using Exede satt based broadband so I'm not
sure if the Verizon box would work at all.
I can't believe that we're the only folks in this large widely scattered
group that have to deal with this sort of situation.
Thanks,
Ron
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 09:48:51 2013
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 08:48:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>, Shop Talk List
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ron,

I faced a similar situation at my house.  If you get a phone that has
WiFi (most any of the "smart phones"), and have a wireless WiFi router for
your computers (from your home DSL or cable modem), you can just configure
your cell phone to use WiFi when you are around the house.  The newer routers
have great range (mine will cover the acre lot here no problem).  
 
best,
doug
____________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Triumph TR6
'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC
Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550


________________________________
 From: Ronnie
Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 7:46 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal
Boosters
 

We're (FINALLY) closing in on the move to our new place located
near BFE
about 80 miles NE of Austin. Being near BFE, cell coverage in the
area is
spotty at best, almost non-existent at our place. Data is (sort of and
sometimes) there, but it is better than voice call. I do have one 50 foot
tiltover, crankup tower that I'll be put up fairly soon, primarily for an
OTA
TV antenna and some ham radio antennas.
Wilson Electronics has a series of
signal boosters and different antennas
that are basically low power repeaters.
Wilson made their name in amateur
radio many years ago and I expect their bits
to work well. I did want to
see if anyone in the group has used the Wilson
gear or possibly some other
company's so I could get some real world feedback.
I might try the Verizon Network Extender, but I had one of those a couple
of
years ago where we're currently living and it didn't seem to make much
difference in signal level in the house at that time. While the Wilson
System
uses antennas (omni or directional) to pick the RF signal, the
Verizon box
plugs into the Internet and basically provides a cell node in
your house.
Looks like we'll be using Exede satt based broadband so I'm not
sure if the
Verizon box would work at all.
I can't believe that we're the only folks in
this large widely scattered
group that have to deal with this sort of
situation.
Thanks,
Ron
_______________________________________________
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Suggested
annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 10:08:13 2013
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 11:04:15 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug, I understand that I can use Wifi for data. We do that already, but I
don't think I can use the data side to make and receive calls, can
I? That's what I'm looking for.

RD


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 10:48 AM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>wrote:

> Hi Ron,
>
> I faced a similar situation at my house.  If you get a phone that has WiFi
> (most any of the "smart phones"), and have a wireless WiFi router for your
> computers (from your home DSL or cable modem), you can just configure your
> cell phone to use WiFi when you are around the house.  The newer routers
> have great range (mine will cover the acre lot here no problem).
>
> best,
>
> doug
> ____________________
> '72 BSA B50SS
> '74 Triumph TR6
> '01 HD XHL 883
> '03 GMC Cargo Van
> '07 Aprilia SXV 550
>   ------------------------------
>  *From:* Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
> *To:* Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, July 1, 2013 7:46 AM
> *Subject:* [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
>
> We're (FINALLY) closing in on the move to our new place located near BFE
> about 80 miles NE of Austin. Being near BFE, cell coverage in the area is
> spotty at best, almost non-existent at our place. Data is (sort of and
> sometimes) there, but it is better than voice call. I do have one 50 foot
> tiltover, crankup tower that I'll be put up fairly soon, primarily for an
> OTA TV antenna and some ham radio antennas.
> Wilson Electronics has a series of signal boosters and different antennas
> that are basically low power repeaters. Wilson made their name in amateur
> radio many years ago and I expect their bits to work well. I did want to
> see if anyone in the group has used the Wilson gear or possibly some other
> company's so I could get some real world feedback.
> I might try the Verizon Network Extender, but I had one of those a couple
> of years ago where we're currently living and it didn't seem to make much
> difference in signal level in the house at that time. While the Wilson
> System uses antennas (omni or directional) to pick the RF signal, the
> Verizon box plugs into the Internet and basically provides a cell node in
> your house. Looks like we'll be using Exede satt based broadband so I'm not
> sure if the Verizon box would work at all.
> I can't believe that we're the only folks in this large widely scattered
> group that have to deal with this sort of situation.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 10:15:27 2013
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 12:09:17 -0400
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm sure several of us share a little bit of jealousy at your move. I know
I would like to put a tower up here, but I think 50' wouldn't get over the
trees that surround me...

I live in suburban Northern Virginia, with lightly rolling terrain and
people who harbor a strong fear of cell towers, so service quality widely
varies. I am 2 miles from the nearest cell site, and discovered a year ago
(when the derecho came through) that without it, there is absolutely no
service around my house.

Is no terrestrial-based internet connectivity available at the new place?
My parents-in-law have wireless internet at their house 10 miles south of
Montrose, Colorado. AT&T, Verizon and Sprint all offer microcell solutions,
but the high latency of satellite connections will likely prevent them from
working. That said, I have the AT&T microcell at my house on a Cox
cablemodem and it has been quite reliable. I had given some thought to a
commercial-grade booster - the Wi-Ex 645 - if the microcell had not worked
(and I still think about it, as my generally-reliable Cox cablemodem is a
single-point of failure).

In your situation, it sounds like the booster (with a highly-directional
receive antenna up on the tower) will be your best bet - and may provide
you the best data connectivity as well, though I wouldn't watch Netflix
over it.

Maybe these guys provide coverage to your area:
http://www.centex.net/internet.php

73 de N3IXY

-Peter


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 10:46 AM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:

> We're (FINALLY) closing in on the move to our new place located near BFE
> about 80 miles NE of Austin. Being near BFE, cell coverage in the area is
> spotty at best, almost non-existent at our place. Data is (sort of and
> sometimes) there, but it is better than voice call. I do have one 50 foot
> tiltover, crankup tower that I'll be put up fairly soon, primarily for an
> OTA TV antenna and some ham radio antennas.
> Wilson Electronics has a series of signal boosters and different antennas
> that are basically low power repeaters. Wilson made their name in amateur
> radio many years ago and I expect their bits to work well. I did want to
> see if anyone in the group has used the Wilson gear or possibly some other
> company's so I could get some real world feedback.
> I might try the Verizon Network Extender, but I had one of those a couple
> of years ago where we're currently living and it didn't seem to make much
> difference in signal level in the house at that time. While the Wilson
> System uses antennas (omni or directional) to pick the RF signal, the
> Verizon box plugs into the Internet and basically provides a cell node in
> your house. Looks like we'll be using Exede satt based broadband so I'm not
> sure if the Verizon box would work at all.
> I can't believe that we're the only folks in this large widely scattered
> group that have to deal with this sort of situation.
> Thanks,
> Ron
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 09:31:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

With T-Mobile you can, but not with Verizon or ATT unless you have a third
party app.  (at least in my experience.)

Brian


----- Original Message -----
> From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
> To: old dirtbeard
<dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
> Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 12:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone
Signal Boosters
> 
> Doug, I understand that I can use Wifi for data. We do
that already, but I
> don't think I can use the data side to make and receive
calls, can
> I? That's what I'm looking for.
> 
(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 09:49:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ron,

I use T-Mobile and it works fine.  I can turn-off the mobile network
completely and can call my home phone from my mobile phone at home using WiFi.
There are no charges or limitations on WiFi calling on T-Mobile here in the
Los Angeles area, anyway.  

I also have been able to do this at airports,
etc., where I could not get a T-Mobile signal.  

I actually was in a remote
rain forest lodge in Borneo where they marketed it that there would be no cell
phone coverage, and I was able to use my Blackberry to call out and receive
calls through the lodge's WiFi in their lobby.

YMMV...
 
best,


doug
____________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Triumph TR6
'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC
Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550


________________________________
 From: Ronnie
Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net> 
Cc: Shop
Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
 


Doug, I understand
that I can use Wifi for data. We do that already, but I don't think I can use
the data side to make and receive calls, can I? That's what I'm looking for.
 
RD



On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 10:48 AM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
wrote:

Hi Ron,
>
>
>I faced a similar situation at my house.  If you get a
phone that has WiFi (most any of the "smart phones"), and have a wireless WiFi
router for your computers (from your home DSL or cable modem), you can just
configure your cell phone to use WiFi when you are around the house.  The
newer routers have great range (mine will cover the acre lot here no problem).
 
> 
>best,
>
>
>doug
>____________________
>'72 BSA
 B50SS
>'74 Triumph TR6
>'01 HD XHL 883
>'03 GMC Cargo Van
>'07 Aprilia SXV 550
>
>
>________________________________
> From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
>To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013
7:46 AM
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
> 
>
>We're (FINALLY)
closing in on the move to our new place located near BFE
>about 80 miles NE of
Austin. Being near BFE, cell coverage in the area is
>spotty at best, almost
non-existent at our place. Data is (sort
 of and
>sometimes) there, but it is
better than voice call. I do have one 50 foot
>tiltover, crankup tower that
I'll be put up fairly soon, primarily for an
>OTA TV antenna and some ham
radio antennas.
>Wilson Electronics has a series of signal boosters and
different antennas
>that are basically low power repeaters. Wilson made their
name in amateur
>radio many years ago and I expect their bits to work well. I
did want to
>see if anyone in the group has used the Wilson gear or possibly
some other
>company's so I could get some real world feedback.
>I might try
the Verizon Network Extender, but I had one of those a couple
>of years ago
where we're currently living and it didn't seem to make much
>difference in
signal level in the house at that time. While the Wilson
>System uses antennas
(omni or directional) to pick the RF signal, the
>Verizon box plugs into the
Internet and basically provides a cell node in
>your house.
 Looks like we'll
be using Exede satt based broadband so I'm not
>sure if the Verizon box would
work at all.
>I can't believe that we're the only folks in this large widely
scattered
>group that have to deal with this sort of situation.
>Thanks,
>Ron
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 12:18:51 2013
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 14:16:10 -0400
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the big trouble here is that the only internet service that may be
available to Ronnie is satellite-based, and that introduces at least 2
seconds of latency. Real-time applications are not well served by
high-latency networks. It doesn't sound like conventional landline
connectivity (DSL, fiber or cable) are available, and the local wireless
ISP is hideously expensive.

Ronnie- It sounds like your best bet may indeed be figuring out which cell
provider can provide you good data service at a reasonable price (made
useable with a Wilson or Wi-Ex repeater), and use that with a Cradlepoint
(or similar) router. If mass-quantity bandwidth is needed, perhaps the
satellite provider could be your secondary bandwidth (though they are
inherently limited by the quantity of bandwidth the satellite can offer).

Otherwise, maybe you can "see" a building in whatever is "downtown"
(Hearne?) and establish your own wireless link there. Ubiquiti or Microtik
gear is inexpensive and outdoor-grade...

-Peter
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 02:47:24 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 04:43:45 -0400
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Richard Beels <rbeels@yahoo.com>
	mail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cell Phone Signal Boosters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

you can if you use republic wireless. $19 a month for unlimited 
voice/text/data.  they want you to prefer wireless over cell (they 
buy in bulk from sprint) since providing the service over wifi is 
essentially free.  current phone is a motorola something running 
android.  some more phones coming out this summer.  wife has been 
running this for a year now and it's been great for her.

we both can get a free month if I refer you, if you (or anyone else) 
want.  no sweat if you don't.



At 07/01/2013 at 12:04, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Ronnie Day's 
keyboard and said:
>Doug, I understand that I can use Wifi for data. We do that already, but I
>don't think I can use the data side to make and receive calls, can
>I? That's what I'm looking for.
>
>RD
>
>
>On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 10:48 AM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>wrote:
>
> > Hi Ron,
> >
> > I faced a similar situation at my house.  If you get a phone that has WiFi
> > (most any of the "smart phones"), and have a wireless WiFi router for your
> > computers (from your home DSL or cable modem), you can just configure your
> > cell phone to use WiFi when you are around the house.  The newer routers
> > have great range (mine will cover the acre lot here no problem).
> >
> > best,
> >
> > doug


Cheers!
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:59:08 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 07/04/2013 10:59:09, Serialize complete at
	07/04/2013 10:59:09
Subject: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Happy 4th to all of my US brothers.  Sorry about the 4th to all my English 
Brothers.  8>)

Anyway, I need some help...
I need to replace this part.  It comes from a 80's vintage Black and 
Decker Spacemaker coffee pot
(Model #SDC2A-TY1 Black & Decker Drip coffeemaker).
Here is a link to the page with the part...
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/black-decker-parts/coffee-maker-parts/model-sdc2aty1/1228/0211000/00053026/00001

It's part # 45 on that page.  PART NUMBER: 164570-00
It seems to be a rubber reduction elbow 3/8" ID  to 3/4" ID.

Here is the problem.  The part isn't available anymore.  When I look up 
replacement parts, I can't find any that say they are approved for 
drinking water (just that they are NOT approved for fuel or oil.)
One half of this hose goes on a part that much get pretty hot.
I thought about buying another of the coffee pots, but my guess is that 
this part will fail on any of them since it's over 30 years old.

I can't find another under counter coffee pot that works as well as this 
one (I've tried.)  So I need this part.

Any hints on where to find such a beast?

Thanks.


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF336492DE.AD35DBBD-ON85257B9E.0051CBA1-85257B9E.0053F4A8@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:27:35 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric ??? what the heck is wrong with you...  you've used this item far 
beyond it's expected life, you're trying to repair an obviously obsolete 
appliance... I'm surprised in today's climate that the EPA/TSA/FBI/NSA/LSMFT 
and Good Housekeeping aren't at your door without a warrant. !!!

It should have been trashed at least 20 years ago and replaced at least 5 
times by now with inferior products... that will leak much quicker.  I'm 
sorely disappointed in you and your total disregard for the 'American Way' 
of throw it out and head to Walmart !!!   You are so un-patriotic..


oh... BTW   a happy 4th to you all all on Shop-talk..

John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric@megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 9:59 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.


> Happy 4th to all of my US brothers.  Sorry about the 4th to all my English
> Brothers.  8>)
>
> Anyway, I need some help...
> I need to replace this part.  It comes from a 80's vintage Black and
> Decker Spacemaker coffee pot
> (Model #SDC2A-TY1 Black & Decker Drip coffeemaker).
> Here is a link to the page with the part...
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/black-decker-parts/coffee-maker-parts/model-sdc2aty1/1228/0211000/00053026/00001
>
> It's part # 45 on that page.  PART NUMBER: 164570-00
> It seems to be a rubber reduction elbow 3/8" ID  to 3/4" ID.
>
> Here is the problem.  The part isn't available anymore.  When I look up
> replacement parts, I can't find any that say they are approved for
> drinking water (just that they are NOT approved for fuel or oil.)
> One half of this hose goes on a part that much get pretty hot.
> I thought about buying another of the coffee pots, but my guess is that
> this part will fail on any of them since it's over 30 years old.
>
> I can't find another under counter coffee pot that works as well as this
> one (I've tried.)  So I need this part.
>
> Any hints on where to find such a beast?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 09:35:45 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 15:27:27 GMT
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dag-nabbit! A packrat from way back, I have stored junk for years because you
never know when you are gonna need a part.We used that coffee maker for many
years before we moved and it didn't make it into the new kitchen.It was stored
in my shop until just a couple of months ago and the wife convinced me to
goodwill it as we had 3 functional (all different) coffeemakers on the
shelf.In a moment of weakness and declutter fervor I gave in. I woulda shipped
you the whole thing... Just goes to prove as soon as you get rid of something
a good use will come along. Inch, you probably have some of the most recent
and significant deployment time of the folks on this board. Thanks for your
service! Matt


AGE RES PROPRIAS TUAS

---------- Original Message ----------
From: eric@megageek.com
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:59:08 -0400

Happy 4th to all of my US brothers.  Sorry about the 4th to all my English
Brothers.  8>)

Anyway, I need some help...
I need to replace this part.  It comes from a 80's vintage Black and
Decker Spacemaker coffee pot
(Model #SDC2A-TY1 Black & Decker Drip coffeemaker).
Here is a link to the page with the part...
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/black-decker-parts/cof
fee-maker-parts/model-sdc2aty1/1228/0211000/00053026/00001

It's part # 45 on that page.  PART NUMBER: 164570-00
It seems to be a rubber reduction elbow 3/8" ID  to 3/4" ID.

Here is the problem.  The part isn't available anymore.  When I look up
replacement parts, I can't find any that say they are approved for
drinking water (just that they are NOT approved for fuel or oil.)
One half of this hose goes on a part that much get pretty hot.
I thought about buying another of the coffee pots, but my guess is that
this part will fail on any of them since it's over 30 years old.

I can't find another under counter coffee pot that works as well as this
one (I've tried.)  So I need this part.

Any hints on where to find such a beast?

Thanks.


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 09:50:02 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 08:42:43 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF336492DE.AD35DBBD-ON85257B9E.0051CBA1-85257B9E.0053F4A8@mail.megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th,
 and I need a special part - search  engines
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Eric - Can you use a CPVC elbow with a reducing fitting?  It is good for 
hot water, so could be good for the heat.

I also tried searching myself and really dislike how the search engines 
no longer let us specify an exact search term.  Once upon a time, you 
could say "164570-00" and you would only get those results.  Now the 
search engines strip the dash and let in commas, spaces, and periods and 
think it is the same thing, even with their advanced search page.  I 
tried Google, Bing, and Alta Vista.  Does anyone know of a search engine 
that actually gives you ask for?

Brian

On 7/4/2013 7:59 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Happy 4th to all of my US brothers.  Sorry about the 4th to all my English
> Brothers.  8>)
>
> Anyway, I need some help...
> I need to replace this part.  It comes from a 80's vintage Black and
> Decker Spacemaker coffee pot
> (Model #SDC2A-TY1 Black & Decker Drip coffeemaker).
> Here is a link to the page with the part...
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/black-decker-parts/coffee-maker-parts/model-sdc2aty1/1228/0211000/00053026/00001
>
> It's part # 45 on that page.  PART NUMBER: 164570-00
> It seems to be a rubber reduction elbow 3/8" ID  to 3/4" ID.
>
> Here is the problem.  The part isn't available anymore.  When I look up
> replacement parts, I can't find any that say they are approved for
> drinking water (just that they are NOT approved for fuel or oil.)
> One half of this hose goes on a part that much get pretty hot.
> I thought about buying another of the coffee pots, but my guess is that
> this part will fail on any of them since it's over 30 years old.
>
> I can't find another under counter coffee pot that works as well as this
> one (I've tried.)  So I need this part.
>
> Any hints on where to find such a beast?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 11:32:21 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 10:12:11 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	mail.megageek.com>
	localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.
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         Looked up the part number on Black and Decker's site, it shows it 
as "back ordered", as opposed to "not available".  Maybe give them a call 
directly?

<http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com/Parts/Search?searchedNumber=164570-00>

         Maybe, just like owners of vintage cars will have 2 or 3 parts 
cars in the back yard, it's time to collect a couple of vintage coffee 
makers for parts.
         eBay shows 3 used ones listed for around $20 + $12-14 
shipping.  Search for "black decker spacemaker coffee".


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       412,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:33:11 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac54zjGJ/zMX6sgpS3WwZwAdopVFvAAC3unQ
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th,
 and I need a special part - search   engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Eric - Can you use a CPVC elbow with a reducing fitting?  It 
> is good for hot water, so could be good for the heat.

Copper might be another choice; with some short straight sections of vinyl
or silicone hose and clamps to couple it.

MMC has USDA compliant silicone tubing in 3/8 and 3/4 id, rated to 450F.
Unfortunately they won't sell less than about $10 worth of each, so you'll
have to decide if your coffee pot is worth $30 to you.  Add some clamps and
a 5520K194 5/8" street ell plus a 5520K145 5/8 to 1/4 reducer, and I think
you're set.  
http://www.mcmaster.com/#copper-solder-joint-tube-fittings/=nh6p7r

Copper fittings are sized by inside diameter, but the OD of a 5/8" female
fitting is 3/4" and the OD of a 1/4" female fitting is 3/8".  Since your
coffee pot uses low pressure, I think you should be fine clamping hoses to
the smooth OD of the normally sweat copper fitting.  I've done the same
thing for systems running up to about 30 psi, and never had one come off.
If you're worried about it coming apart, you could always lay a bead of
solder on the fitting, for the hose to 'grab'.

-- Randall 
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 11:04:38 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The computer kind.

OK, when we got DSL some time ago (probably seven or eight years ago) we 
got whatever Westell wifi router that Verizon provided with the 
service.  It still works ok but it's slow and the range is pretty 
pathetic.   I think it's time for a replacement.   If you go to Amazon 
or Newegg there are a ton of routers and the reviews are all over the 
place.

So would anyone like to suggest a basic modern wifi and hardwired router 
with decent range and throughput, and that won't take an EE to set up?

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 15:47:55 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 14:42:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special part.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Black and Decker seems to list that  part as backordered. Maybe you can order
it and see what they do with the order or call their customer service?

$2.20
http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com/Parts/Search?searchedNumber=164570-00
Brian


----- Original Message -----
> From: "eric@megageek.com"
<eric@megageek.com>
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Cc: 
> Sent: Thursday,
July 4, 2013 10:59 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Happy 4th, and I need a special
part.
> 
> Happy 4th to all of my US brothers.  Sorry about the 4th to all my
English 
> Brothers.  8>)
> 
> Anyway, I need some help...
> I need to replace
this part.  It comes from a 80's vintage Black and 
> Decker Spacemaker coffee
pot
> (Model #SDC2A-TY1 Black & Decker Drip coffeemaker).
> Here is a link to
the page with the part...
>
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/black-decker-parts/cof
fee-maker-parts/model-sdc2aty1/1228/0211000/00053026/00001
> 
> It's part # 45
on that page.  PART NUMBER: 164570-00
> It seems to be a rubber reduction
elbow 3/8" ID  to 3/4" ID.
> 
> Here is the problem.  The part isn't available
anymore.  When I look up 
> replacement parts, I can't find any that say they
are approved for 
> drinking water (just that they are NOT approved for fuel
or oil.)
> One half of this hose goes on a part that much get pretty hot.
> I
thought about buying another of the coffee pots, but my guess is that 
> this
part will fail on any of them since it's over 30 years old.
> 
> I can't find
another under counter coffee pot that works as well as this 
> one (I've
tried.)  So I need this part.
> 
> Any hints on where to find such a beast?
>
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if
your rights as a rational 
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of
your territory." Ralph 
> Waldo Emerson 
>
_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 16:11:56 2013
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References: <51D5B936.1070702@frontier.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 18:07:46 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 2:04 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
> The computer kind.
>
> So would anyone like to suggest a basic modern wifi and hardwired router
> with decent range and throughput, and that won't take an EE to set up?

I bought one of these, refurbished, from this vendor in January 2011:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5569261&CatId=2668

It fills my house, and as far as I can recall hasn't dropped a
connection or needed rebooting since then.

Jeff Scarbrough
Tesla Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 17:14:16 2013
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References: <51D5B936.1070702@frontier.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 16:09:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

For DSL, IMO, you're not really gaining anything by replacing the router,
unless you want to update the wireless
security. Older routers did WEP
encryption, the newer ones do WPA2, which is what the newer wireless cards
handle. 
To communicate with the wireless devices, you have wireless N, but
upcoming is wireless AC. So may want to wait 
for everybody to get to the
standard. It's a mismatch at the moment, quite similar to how wireless N was
when it was introduced. 

I think we need to determine first if you're going
to move from DSL to cable internet. (like I'm going to do.) 
If so, then it
will be worth it to get a DOCSIS 3.0 modem which increases the throughput at
high speed. The
forums are reporting noticeable speed improvement after
upgrading their modems from docsis 2.0. 
Then the router needs to be able to
handle the high speed data without choking. The ASUS  wireless AC routers 
are
getting mixed  reviews. I've read both good and bad about them. 

Brian

-----
Original Message -----
> From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
> To: Shop Talk
List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Thursday, July 4, 2013 2:04 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
> 
>T he computer kind.
> 
> OK, when we
got DSL some time ago (probably seven or eight years ago) we 
> got whatever
Westell wifi router that Verizon provided with the 
> service.  It still works
ok but it's slow and the range is pretty 
> pathetic.   I think it's time for
a replacement.   If you go to Amazon 
> or Newegg there are a ton of routers
and the reviews are all over the 
> place.
> 
> So would anyone like to
suggest a basic modern wifi and hardwired router 
> with decent range and
throughput, and that won't take an EE to set up?
> 
> Thanks
>
_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 20:19:26 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 19:14:27 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
References: <51D5B936.1070702@frontier.com>
	<1372979399.35824.YahooMailNeo@web140006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Cc: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably not.  We live in a rural area and I don't even know who the 
cable provider is (we get TV via satellite) We don't even have reliable 
cell service.  The problem is we are down a 900 foot long driveway and 
we have underground phone and power from the house back to the street 
with the power/phone lines, and I don't plan to trench back for cable.  
I'm stuck with DSL for the foreseeable future.

On 7/4/2013 4:09 PM, Battmain wrote:
>   think we need to determine first if you're going
> to move from DSL to cable internet.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 04:28:55 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave C'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "'Shop Talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 03:28:57 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
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> So would anyone like to suggest a basic modern wifi and 
> hardwired router with decent range and throughput, and that 
> won't take an EE to set up?

I've been happy with my Netgear WGR614L.  It covers the whole house with
ease, including the yard (tho I do have it in a pretty central location both
horizontal and vertical).  Worked right out of the box (but I do suggest
setting the passwords for both WiFi and administrative access).  ISTR I paid
about $50 @ the local Best Buy, but Amazon has it for under $30.

Only trouble I've had is that it used to require rebooting every month or
two.  But putting one edge up on something else (for improved air
circulation) seems to have solved that.

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 06:25:27 2013
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From: "Mark Watson" <watsonm05@comcast.net>
To: "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "Shop Talk List"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <51D5B936.1070702@frontier.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 08:20:41 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

    Recently I replaced an old Belkin with an Asus RT-N66U.  It was a bit 
more expensive but I've been happy so far.  I had to reboot the old router 
almost every time I tried to use the wireless and haven't yet had to reboot 
the new one.  It reaches from the middle of our rancher to both ends with 
good speed.  What I really like is that it's designed with slots on the back 
so I can mount it to the wall to help with the range.

    I am an EE but I didn't use any of what I learned in school to set this 
up.  Of course I graduated with my BS in '83 so any discussion about a 
router in those days would have been in controlling the speed of the 
woodworking kind's motor ;-)

    NFI, etc.

Mark W.
1965 Falcon "Georgie" - 4door, 6 cylinder, 3 on the tree
1956 Daimler Regency Mk II '104' - "The Big D" - long term resto
various other transportation pods
-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave C
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 2:04 PM
To: Shop Talk List
Subject: [Shop-talk] Routers, again

The computer kind.

OK, when we got DSL some time ago (probably seven or eight years ago) we
got whatever Westell wifi router that Verizon provided with the
service.  It still works ok but it's slow and the range is pretty
pathetic.   I think it's time for a replacement.   If you go to Amazon
or Newegg there are a ton of routers and the reviews are all over the
place.

So would anyone like to suggest a basic modern wifi and hardwired router
with decent range and throughput, and that won't take an EE to set up?

Thanks
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 13:10:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 12:02:44 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <51D5B936.1070702@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again (follow up)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the input.  Now I just need to decide which one to get, 
but at least the choices are narrowed down.

Follow up question:

Can I leave my old wireless network up and live while I'm installing the 
new one, then transition the devices over one at a time?  The old one is 
named "home" so I could name the new one "new home" and then reconnect 
everything, get the MAC filtering, passwords, etc all up one at a time 
and if there were any glitches at least the old one would be running as 
a backup.

In addition to the desktop (hard wired to the router) I'm running two 
netbooks in the house, plus two regular Kindles, a Kindle Fire and a 
Nook HD+.

Out in the shop I have an old range booster, another netbook, and 
another wifi device that makes my solar panel interface think it's 
plugged into a hardwired modem.  I have no idea how I ended up with all 
that hardware, but that seems to be the way it goes.


On 7/4/2013 11:04 AM, Dave C wrote:
> The computer kind.
>
> OK, when we got DSL some time ago (probably seven or eight years ago) 
> we got whatever Westell wifi router that Verizon provided with the 
> service.  It still works ok but it's slow and the range is pretty 
> pathetic.   I think it's time for a replacement.   If you go to Amazon 
> or Newegg there are a ton of routers and the reviews are all over the 
> place.
>
> So would anyone like to suggest a basic modern wifi and hardwired 
> router with decent range and throughput, and that won't take an EE to 
> set up?
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 13:40:28 2013
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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 14:39:10 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <51D5B936.1070702@frontier.com>
  <51D71854.7070105@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Routers, again (follow up)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Dave,

The best way to add the new router while maintaining the old one is to 
plug the new one directly into an unused port on your DSL router 
directly, if there is a spare port. If not, just plug it into the 
wireless router and then reboot everything and make sure that everything 
is still working.

I am late replying to your initial post and wanted to mention that in a 
lot of rural areas there are wifi providers that use ground-based radio 
links to get service to customers. I am using that type of service here 
because we can't get DSL or cable, we are in a sparsely populated area, 
about 5 miles out of the nearest town. Our only options are satellite - 
which I don't recommend, dialup or the service we have. You might search 
for "wifi service" and your zip code.  When I did that with my zip I 
came up with my provider and another one that just came into the area.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Dave C

> Thanks for all the input.  Now I just need to decide which one to get, 
> but at least the choices are narrowed down.
>
> Follow up question:
>
> Can I leave my old wireless network up and live while I'm installing 
> the new one, then transition the devices over one at a time?  The old 
> one is named "home" so I could name the new one "new home" and then 
> reconnect everything, get the MAC filtering, passwords, etc all up one 
> at a time and if there were any glitches at least the old one would be 
> running as a backup.
>
> In addition to the desktop (hard wired to the router) I'm running two 
> netbooks in the house, plus two regular Kindles, a Kindle Fire and a 
> Nook HD+.
>
> Out in the shop I have an old range booster, another netbook, and 
> another wifi device that makes my solar panel interface think it's 
> plugged into a hardwired modem.  I have no idea how I ended up with 
> all that hardware, but that seems to be the way it goes.
>
>
> On 7/4/2013 11:04 AM, Dave C wrote:
>> The computer kind.
>>
>> OK, when we got DSL some time ago (probably seven or eight years ago) 
>> we got whatever Westell wifi router that Verizon provided with the 
>> service.  It still works ok but it's slow and the range is pretty 
>> pathetic.   I think it's time for a replacement.   If you go to 
>> Amazon or Newegg there are a ton of routers and the reviews are all 
>> over the place.
>>
>> So would anyone like to suggest a basic modern wifi and hardwired 
>> router with decent range and throughput, and that won't take an EE to 
>> set up?
>>
>> Thanks
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 14 10:38:33 2013
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 12:14:58 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Old wrench sizing system
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I bought an old open-ended wrench at a flea market.
One end was 1", but was marked "3/4 (X) C".
The other end was 1-1/8", but was marked "7/8 (X) C".

The "(X)" is actually a hexagon.

Does anybody know what this sizing system is?

Thanks,
Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 14 12:13:22 2013
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 11:12:12 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	mail.com>
	localhost.drteeth.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Old wrench sizing system
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug wrote:

         Looks like it's the old school method of marking the fastener size 
on the wrench, not the size of the wrench opening as is done now.

http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/table_oe_wrench.html

         There were three standards for nuts and bolts:  SAE, USS (US 
Standard) and Hex Capscrew.  A wrench with the same size opening might have 
three different size indications for each of the three standards.  This 
confusing system was phased out in the '20s in favor of the current 
across-flats size markings.

         So your wrench was made to fit 3/4" and 7/8" diameter Hex Capscrew 
bolts/nuts.

<http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-history/wrench-marked-fraction-hexagon-c-208893/>
<http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/billings-spencer-company.html>

Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       412,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 14 18:32:55 2013
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References: <5.1.0.14.2.20130714105940.021e7860@mail.avvanta.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 20:32:44 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Old wrench sizing system
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the info.  The alloy artifacts web site is a gold mine of
information!

Doug


On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 2:12 PM, Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com> wrote:

> Doug wrote:
>
>         Looks like it's the old school method of marking the fastener size
> on the wrench, not the size of the wrench opening as is done now.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~**alloy-artifacts/table_oe_**wrench.html<http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/table_oe_wrench.html>
>
>         There were three standards for nuts and bolts:  SAE, USS (US
> Standard) and Hex Capscrew.  A wrench with the same size opening might have
> three different size indications for each of the three standards.  This
> confusing system was phased out in the '20s in favor of the current
> across-flats size markings.
>
>         So your wrench was made to fit 3/4" and 7/8" diameter Hex Capscrew
> bolts/nuts.
>
> <http://www.**practicalmachinist.com/vb/**antique-machinery-history/**
> wrench-marked-fraction-**hexagon-c-208893/<http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-history/wrench-marked-fraction-hexagon-c-208893/>
> >
> <http://home.comcast.net/~**alloy-artifacts/billings-**
> spencer-company.html<http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/billings-spencer-company.html>
> >
>
> Todd
> Seattle,WA
> '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
> '01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       412,000 miles
> '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a
> new home :(
> http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/doug@**dougbraun.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 09:22:19 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 11:22:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] Angie's list
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Anyone out there have an Angie's list membership?

Please contact me off list if you do.

Thanks!
tim
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 20 09:27:03 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 11:26:49 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] ISS Toolbox
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I like the hammer!

*ISS Toolbox - a set on Flickr*
|
http://www.flickr.com/photos/timpeake/sets/72157634315750824/

read more <http://www.flickr.com/photos/timpeake/sets/72157634315750824/>

---

http://pulse.me <http://pulse.me?src=email_android_phone>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 11:58:25 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 10:53:39 -0700
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
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To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
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I have an electric gate on my driveway about 700' from the house, 
installed before I bought the house.  There is a set of twisted pair 
wiring from the phone box to the gate to remotely operate it. along with 
120v power and a couple signal wires.  I need to locate all the junction 
boxes along the path, and I can't find one. Or rather the contractor who 
is going to replace the wiring can't find it.

The wires are in plastic conduit buried about 1' down.  The junction 
boxes are "Christy" concrete boxes.

I have a cheap metal detector.  Would it be able to pick up the wiring?  
Any other ideas for finding the missing box?  Divining rods?

I have not tried yet because I just thought about using the detector 
last night and I injured my leg last week and don't want to walk more 
than I have to.

Eric
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 12:30:00 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 14:28:18 -0400
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <51F2B7A3.5090709@lne.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 7/26/2013 1:53 PM, Eric Murray wrote:

> I have a cheap metal detector.  Would it be able to pick up the wiring?
> Any other ideas for finding the missing box?  Divining rods?

Hi Eric..Has the contractor tried a toner? I've used one to trace wires 
in the house. The resolution isn't great (it will locate the stud bay) 
and there is considerable bleed-over to other cables that touch the one 
being tested, and the signal drops off quite exponentially with 
distance, but it might be a cheap first shot.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tracer-Tester-Generator-Signal/dp/B001MB759U

jim
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 12:32:08 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 11:32:01 -0700
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
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To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF2BA29CEB.1CA17AF3-ON85257BB4.0062F5BD-85257BB4.00632803@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 07/26/2013 10:46 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> You need a tone generator and receiver.  Here is a middle of the road 
> one...
>
> _http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Tone-cube-and-Probe-plus-Kit-VDV500-808/203015886#.UfK5cdK-pVM_

I have one, I didn't think it'd work on buried wiring.

The diving rods were a joke (although if they actually worked I'd use them).

I don't think my metal detector has a discriminator but I could be 
wrong, it's been a while.

I did find an outfit that rents out wiring detectors which are designed 
to work on buried wiring-
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Armada-Technologies-Wire-Valve-Locator-p/pro-700-rental.htm

Eric
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 12:59:58 2013
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 13:56:07 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
	FILETIME=[C43E2240:01CE8A31]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 1996 Honda Accord that my mother bought new and gave to my daughters
when they started driving.  The car took them through high school and college
and my wife and I now keep it around for when they are home or one of our cars
is being serviced.  It has 150,000 miles on it, but is sound mechanically and
doesn't cost us much to keep.  However, it looks like crap.  It has its share
of dings, but no rust or major damage.  It was caught in a tornado and hail
storm at one point, but most - but not all - of the damage was repaired when I
was able to loan the car to a local painless dent removal company to use for
training new technicians.  The worst problem is that it suffers from the
de-lamination that is typical of cars of this era, especially black ones.  My
wife would like to spend some money freshening it up and took it to Maaco for
an estimate.  They quoted her about $500 for a machine sanding and new paint
job.  I do not want to invest my own time in this car, but $600 isn't bad to
give it a new lease on life, although that does not include filling in or
popping out any of the remaining hail damage.  I have heard mixed reviews of
Maaco in the past, but am not expecting a concours paint job.

Does anyone here have any first hand experience with them?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 15:11:11 2013
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From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel@comcast.net>
To: "James Stone" <jandkstone99@msn.com>, "Shop Talk"
	<shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 14:10:41 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
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No first-hand experience.
When this topic came up on another forum, someone suggested meeting the the 
guy who'd do the work beforehand. The advice was to give him a $20 and tell 
him there'd be another one if you liked the results.

Bob K 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 15:18:48 2013
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 16:16:39 -0500
To: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Jul 26, 2013, at 13:32, Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com> wrote:

> On 07/26/2013 10:46 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>>
>> You need a tone generator and receiver.  Here is a middle of the road
>> one...
>>
>>
_http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Tone-cube-and-Probe-plus-Kit-VDV500-8
08/203015886#.UfK5cdK-pVM_
>
> I have one, I didn't think it'd work on buried wiring.

Toners work by putting a radio signal on the wire. If they're only a foot down
try it.


> /Armada-Technologies-Wire-Valve- annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Kegel wrote"
>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?

It's been about 30 years since I even knew anyone that went to Maaco, but...

They do a good paint job.
They do not do good body work (slap on 3 inches of Bondo and call it good.
They do not remove the trip, they just paint over it.
They barely cover the rubber around the windows - all of them had paint on
the window rubber.
Etc.


But...

If you did the body prep, removed the trim, lights, grill, door handles,
etc. you got a decent paint job.  They were good at spraying paint that
lasted, just didn't have the time to do any of the prep work.

Me?  The couple of times I needed a good paint job, I took it to friend's
shops, or a well-respected shop in town. (or even the next state away).

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 16:40:50 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 17:40:34 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF2BA29CEB.1CA17AF3-ON85257BB4.0062F5BD-85257BB4.00632803@mail.megageek.com>
	<51F2C0A1.9050408@lne.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You are correct, it doesn't work. I tried this some years ago and even 
after I found the conduit, the receiver didn't pick up the signal on the 
wire.

The toner I used was for finding networking wire in walls, it worked 
fine for that. There m,ay be some higher power units out there for 
buried wire, but I don't work in that field.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Eric Murray

> On 07/26/2013 10:46 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>> You need a tone generator and receiver.  Here is a middle of the road
>> one...
>>
>> _http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Tone-cube-and-Probe-plus-Kit-VDV500-808/203015886#.UfK5cdK-pVM_
> I have one, I didn't think it'd work on buried wiring.
>
> The diving rods were a joke (although if they actually worked I'd use them).
>
> I don't think my metal detector has a discriminator but I could be
> wrong, it's been a while.
>
> I did find an outfit that rents out wiring detectors which are designed
> to work on buried wiring-
> http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Armada-Technologies-Wire-Valve-Locator-p/pro-700-rental.htm
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 19:55:41 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 21:53:50 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We had Maaco paint a racecar of ours a number of years back.  We did all
the prep work and they shot paint.  And boy did they shoot paint!  They
painted anything that wasn't masked, including the tops of the tires, any
bit of glass that didn't get covered, etc.

They also didn't do a very good job on the paint.  It was fine for a
racecar, but I wouldn't want their paint on a street car.  If I needed a
car finished on the cheap, I'd probably try something less conventional
like plasti-dip (https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php).

-Paul


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 2:56 PM, James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:

> I have a 1996 Honda Accord that my mother bought new and gave to my
> daughters
> when they started driving.  The car took them through high school and
> college
> and my wife and I now keep it around for when they are home or one of our
> cars
> is being serviced.  It has 150,000 miles on it, but is sound mechanically
> and
> doesn't cost us much to keep.  However, it looks like crap.  It has its
> share
> of dings, but no rust or major damage.  It was caught in a tornado and hail
> storm at one point, but most - but not all - of the damage was repaired
> when I
> was able to loan the car to a local painless dent removal company to use
> for
> training new technicians.  The worst problem is that it suffers from the
> de-lamination that is typical of cars of this era, especially black ones.
>  My
> wife would like to spend some money freshening it up and took it to Maaco
> for
> an estimate.  They quoted her about $500 for a machine sanding and new
> paint
> job.  I do not want to invest my own time in this car, but $600 isn't bad
> to
> give it a new lease on life, although that does not include filling in or
> popping out any of the remaining hail damage.  I have heard mixed reviews
> of
> Maaco in the past, but am not expecting a concours paint job.
>
> Does anyone here have any first hand experience with them?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 26 20:47:21 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 19:46:03 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
References: <51F2B7A3.5090709@lne.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

Do you have a Dig Safe function in your state?  Search "dig safe" with 
your state.

See http://www.call811.com/ and select "State Specific Information" in 
the bottom center.

Out in Southern California, it is a free service for utility lines. They 
have the equipment to trace lines.  Most recently, we had a natural gas 
line leaking underground in the street.  It is a plastic line with a 
single copper trace wire.  They accurately marked it about 3' under an 
asphalt street.  They came out the same day for the gas line.  When I 
used them for a gutter drain pipe, they came the next day.

I don't know if it will apply in your case, but it doesn't take much 
time to call.  You will need to say you are digging when you talk to 
them - perhaps planting a new tree near where you thing the box should be.

I'm surprised the electrician doesn't have the equipment to trace it.  
I've seen contractors do it multiple times.

If you are in an area with building codes, you may also want to check if 
the signal wires can be in the same conduit as the AC wires (you didn't 
specify).   Perhaps someone else on the list can comment here.  I've 
always run them separate.

Brian

On 7/26/2013 10:53 AM, Eric Murray wrote:
> I have an electric gate on my driveway about 700' from the house, 
> installed before I bought the house.  There is a set of twisted pair 
> wiring from the phone box to the gate to remotely operate it. along 
> with 120v power and a couple signal wires.  I need to locate all the 
> junction boxes along the path, and I can't find one. Or rather the 
> contractor who is going to replace the wiring can't find it.
>
> The wires are in plastic conduit buried about 1' down.  The junction 
> boxes are "Christy" concrete boxes.
>
> I have a cheap metal detector.  Would it be able to pick up the 
> wiring?  Any other ideas for finding the missing box?  Divining rods?
>
> I have not tried yet because I just thought about using the detector 
> last night and I injured my leg last week and don't want to walk more 
> than I have to.
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
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When they painted my caravan, they did remove the roof rack before the painted it.  However, they only put back half of the mounting bolts.  This caused several openings that leaked, ruining the headliner.


----- Original Message -----
From: "James Stone" <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 11:56:07 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?

I have a 1996 Honda Accord that my mother bought new and gave to my daughters
when they started driving.  The car took them through high school and college
and my wife and I now keep it around for when they are home or one of our cars
is being serviced.  It has 150,000 miles on it, but is sound mechanically and
doesn't cost us much to keep.  However, it looks like crap.  It has its share
of dings, but no rust or major damage.  It was caught in a tornado and hail
storm at one point, but most - but not all - of the damage was repaired when I
was able to loan the car to a local painless dent removal company to use for
training new technicians.  The worst problem is that it suffers from the
de-lamination that is typical of cars of this era, especially black ones.  My
wife would like to spend some money freshening it up and took it to Maaco for
an estimate.  They quoted her about $500 for a machine sanding and new paint
job.  I do not want to invest my own time in this car, but $600 isn't bad to
give it a new lease on life, although that does not include filling in or
popping out any of the remaining hail damage.  I have heard mixed reviews of
Maaco in the past, but am not expecting a concours paint job.

Does anyone here have any first hand experience with them?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	ptFtXJGZ2JZ4w==
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Leave the hail-holes and paint it white.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Stone" <jandkstone99@msn.com>
> To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 1:56:07 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
> I have a 1996 Honda Accord that my mother bought new and gave to my
> daughters
> when they started driving. The car took them through high school and
> college
> and my wife and I now keep it around for when they are home or one of
> our cars
> is being serviced. It has 150,000 miles on it, but is sound
> mechanically and
> doesn't cost us much to keep. However, it looks like crap. It has its
> share
> of dings, but no rust or major damage. It was caught in a tornado and
> hail
> storm at one point, but most - but not all - of the damage was
> repaired when I
> was able to loan the car to a local painless dent removal company to
> use for
> training new technicians. The worst problem is that it suffers from
> the
> de-lamination that is typical of cars of this era, especially black
> ones. My
> wife would like to spend some money freshening it up and took it to
> Maaco for
> an estimate. They quoted her about $500 for a machine sanding and new
> paint
> job. I do not want to invest my own time in this car, but $600 isn't
> bad to
> give it a new lease on life, although that does not include filling in
> or
> popping out any of the remaining hail damage. I have heard mixed
> reviews of
> Maaco in the past, but am not expecting a concours paint job.
> 
> Does anyone here have any first hand experience with them?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 07:09:41 2013
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 08:07:43 -0500
References: <BLU0-SMTP29027E789316C9F854678ECC6A0@phx.gbl>
	<CAOEriimSdNA847N92qHvx1N9ebYXsgN+_otuk+mEjaL6ghhbvw@mail.gmail.com>
To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[49808770:01CE8ACA]
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys.  About what I expected, but good to have the confirmation.  And,
thanks Paul for the link to the Plasti-dip site.  I doubt that is the right
thing for our Accord, but it was a very interesting site.  I had no idea it
was being used that way!

On Jul 26, 2013, at 8:53 PM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> We had Maaco paint a racecar of ours a number of years back.  We did all the
prep work and they shot paint.  And boy did they shoot paint!  They painted
anything that wasn't masked, including the tops of the tires, any bit of glass
that didn't get covered, etc.
>
> They also didn't do a very good job on the paint.  It was fine for a
racecar, but I wouldn't want their paint on a street car.  If I needed a car
finished on the cheap, I'd probably try something less conventional like
plasti-dip (https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php).
>
> -Paul
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 2:56 PM, James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:
> I have a 1996 Honda Accord that my mother bought new and gave to my
daughters
> when they started driving.  The car took them through high school and
college
> and my wife and I now keep it around for when they are home or one of our
cars
> is being serviced.  It has 150,000 miles on it, but is sound mechanically
and
> doesn't cost us much to keep.  However, it looks like crap.  It has its
share
> of dings, but no rust or major damage.  It was caught in a tornado and hail
> storm at one point, but most - but not all - of the damage was repaired when
I
> was able to loan the car to a local painless dent removal company to use
for
> training new technicians.  The worst problem is that it suffers from the
> de-lamination that is typical of cars of this era, especially black ones.
My
> wife would like to spend some money freshening it up and took it to Maaco
for
> an estimate.  They quoted her about $500 for a machine sanding and new
paint
> job.  I do not want to invest my own time in this car, but $600 isn't bad
to
> give it a new lease on life, although that does not include filling in or
> popping out any of the remaining hail damage.  I have heard mixed reviews
of
> Maaco in the past, but am not expecting a concours paint job.
>
> Does anyone here have any first hand experience with them?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 08:57:06 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 14:53:13 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a couple of years ago my 97 Dodge 3500 Triumph support truck was looking
pretty tired.The graphics on the sides were crazed & peeling, the paint had
failed on the roof, etc.Maaco quoted me $800 and several other budget shops
were in the same ballpark. I went with a local Econo Paint and they did a
great job in white enamel for $350.Thinking back, that was really surprising
considering how large that vehicle is. So bottom line, paint and labor can be
expensive.  Environmental regulations can add cost & complexity.But if the
shop gets the car clean & smooth a decent paint job doesn't have to cost a
grand. (or more).I also think that an owner that removes his own trim, lights,
etc even if only a few items serves notice to the shop that he/she is
interested in a good job and that may warrant that little bit of extra
attention.  Of course the wall targeted $20 can work wonders too! Matt


---------- Original Message ----------
From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 08:07:43 -0500

Thanks guys.  About what I expected, but good to have the confirmation.  And,
thanks Paul for the link to the Plasti-dip site.  I doubt that is the right
thing for our Accord, but it was a very interesting site.  I had no idea it
was being used that way!

On Jul 26, 2013, at 8:53 PM, Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> wrote:

> We had Maaco paint a racecar of ours a number of years back.  We did all
the
prep work and they shot paint.  And boy did they shoot paint!  They painted
anything that wasn't masked, including the tops of the tires, any bit of
glass
that didn't get covered, etc.
>
> They also didn't do a very good job on the paint.  It was fine for a
racecar, but I wouldn't want their paint on a street car.  If I needed a car
finished on the cheap, I'd probably try something less conventional like
plasti-dip (https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php).
>
> -Paul
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 2:56 PM, James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:
> I have a 1996 Honda Accord that my mother bought new and gave to my
daughters
> when they started driving.  The car took them through high school and
college
> and my wife and I now keep it around for when they are home or one of our
cars
> is being serviced.  It has 150,000 miles on it, but is sound mechanically
and
> doesn't cost us much to keep.  However, it looks like crap.  It has its
share
> of dings, but no rust or major damage.  It was caught in a tornado and hail
> storm at one point, but most - but not all - of the damage was repaired
when
I
> was able to loan the car to a local painless dent removal company to use
for
> training new technicians.  The worst problem is that it suffers from the
> de-lamination that is typical of cars of this era, especially black ones.
My
> wife would like to spend some money freshening it up and took it to Maaco
for
> an estimate.  They quoted her about $500 for a machine sanding and new
paint
> job.  I do not want to invest my own time in this car, but $600 isn't bad
to
> give it a new lease on life, although that does not include filling in or
> popping out any of the remaining hail damage.  I have heard mixed reviews
of
> Maaco in the past, but am not expecting a concours paint job.
>
> Does anyone here have any first hand experience with them?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 15:06:37 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 17:00:57 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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	<CAOEriimSdNA847N92qHvx1N9ebYXsgN+_otuk+mEjaL6ghhbvw@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU0-SMTP3064008BE0FA692658DD2A4CC6B0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Better get Maaco?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

>> We had Maaco paint a racecar of ours a number of years back.  We did all the
> prep work and they shot paint.  And boy did they shoot paint!  They painted

I have heard for years "Maaco shoots great paint, they just don't prep 
for shit."

Only example I've seen: a bro-in-law in Cincy,Oh had a white 88-ish RX7 
daily driver he wanted sprayed ultra cheaply. He stripped ALL the trim 
off it, bondo'ed, sanded, masked, rattle can primered, etc. Took it to them.

Mac: "It's a $150 job. You didn't have to do all that prep yourself."
JB: "Yeah, well I did. Is $150 good for the best factory white you've got?"

It was probably a "5 foot" or "10 foot" paint job but there were NO 
masking lines or overspray, since he'd yanked everything. Not show car 
or new car quality, but not obviously sprayed and better than a lot of 
weathered cars on the road. Exactly what he was expecting. You can 
probably stop by the shop any afternoon and look at the cars to be 
picked up. After it's dried a few days, the DIY car wash will take 70% 
off the trim and tires.

-Wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 21:43:58 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 20:38:48 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
References: <OF2BA29CEB.1CA17AF3-ON85257BB4.0062F5BD-85257BB4.00632803@mail.megageek.com>
	<51F2C0A1.9050408@lne.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] finding buried  gate wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I rented the whole setup at a rental yard about 10 years ago when I had 
to do essentially the same job; I have a 900 foot driveway and the phone 
and power are in the same trench, and I wanted to locate the far end of 
it.  I put the tone generator on the phone line shield and didn't have 
any trouble following the tone down the driveway.  It was a setup 
designed for underground wires, not walls or other locations.
On 7/26/2013 11:32 AM, Eric Murray wrote:
> On 07/26/2013 10:46 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>> You need a tone generator and receiver.  Here is a middle of the road
>> one...
>>
>> _http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Tone-cube-and-Probe-plus-Kit-VDV500-808/203015886#.UfK5cdK-pVM_
> I have one, I didn't think it'd work on buried wiring.
>
> The diving rods were a joke (although if they actually worked I'd use them).
>
> I don't think my metal detector has a discriminator but I could be
> wrong, it's been a while.
>
> I did find an outfit that rents out wiring detectors which are designed
> to work on buried wiring-
> http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Armada-Technologies-Wire-Valve-Locator-p/pro-700-rental.htm
>
> Eric
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 12:15:05 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 11:03:44 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibm looking for some locally available aerosol cleaner,
to use as a final rinse to remove oily residue.  Ibm attempting
to seal an oil leak in a 100 year old aluminum crankcase.
Final cleaning (after using brake cleaner aerosol) to get the
area as clean as possible before using JB Weld to stop the
weeping.   Is there an aerosol product using acetone or MEK on
the commonly available market?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 14:44:57 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 16:44:27 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <9A10B5B1755240EFADBAFEC9B5E0E600@StevePC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 7/29/2013 2:03 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Ibm looking for some locally available aerosol cleaner,
> to use as a final rinse to remove oily residue.  Ibm attempting
> to seal an oil leak in a 100 year old aluminum crankcase.
> Final cleaning (after using brake cleaner aerosol) to get the

My favorite is Auto Zone's store brand brake cleaner. Don't know if AZ 
is out west though. Welding supply shops probably sell cans for use in a 
dye penetrant inspection kit.

-w
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 15:54:43 -0700
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Learning to weld on your own?
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I have some body repairs I'd like to do on my TR8, and I'm wondering about the
feasibility of learning to weld well enough to do them on my own.  I've
checked the local community college, and the only welding classes they have
are geared toward students preparing for a career in welding, they don't have
any "Adult Ed" type classes.  Of course, I could have a body shop do it, but
the few that are willing to do this kind of work want to do the whole job at
once, and not piecemeal (I also want a respray at some point).

I have three different things to address:

1.  The car came with a bump strip along the sides, which I didn't care for.
It was attached with pop rivets, so I have a series of 1/8" holes along each
side, from the front fender, across the door, and across the rear fender.  I
have access to the back of most of the holes, but not all.  But I do think I
can spray cavity wax everyplace.  Right now the holes are covered with some
silver 3M striping tape, which is pretty invisible beyond about 10 feet.  But
it would be nice to get a more permanent solution.

2.  The car came with a luggage rack, which I also removed.  That left eight
holes from the sheet metal screws.  These are a bit larger than the pop rivet
holes, and of course distorted from the screws.  Half of them have easy access
to the back side, but the other half are hidden under the stiffening rails.
Again, I could certainly get cavity wax in there.  Right now I have some plain
aluminum plates screwed over where the brackets go (the car is silver).

3.  The last area is the rear panel.  The car was hit in the back at some
time, and wasn't repaired very well.  It looks like they made no attempt to
pull anything out, and just sculpted the area with Bondo.  It actually doesn't
look as bad as it sounds, except that the panel is pushed in about an inch.  I
think the best way to fix this would be to install a new panel, if I can get
one.  Also, some of the panels in the boot are crumpled, and those are
available.  These are all attached with spot welds.

So, my questions:

1.  Is it reasonable to think that I could teach myself to weld well enough to
do these jobs?  I definitely don't want to make anything worse in attempting
fix anything.

2.  What kind of equipment would be required?  Would one of the inexpensive
110V welders be sufficient?  Would a TIG matter over a flux wire-feed for
these jobs?

3.  How much paint should be removed around the repair holes?

Thanks!

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 16:15:02 -0700
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Learning to weld on your own?
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  Handy with your hands ? you can do it.

  I learned to weld with a oxy/acet torch and I find filling holes like 
you are talking about easier with that but can be done with MIG or TIG.

  The MIG is ideal for replacing body panels.  For the holes it would be 
best if you can  get some copper behind the hole just for welding 
purposes, that makes it pretty easy to fill holes.

  I actually went to the Lincoln school of welding when I got serious 
about car work, great way to spend a weeks vacation :) But the level of 
work you are talking around did not need that week of schooling.   If 
you get a MIG, be warned my friends joked that I was using my MIG as a 
Plasma cutter because on thin metals I would create more holes then I 
was repairing.  For me (and maybe me only) I find TIG much easier but I 
torch welded for 30+ years before I tried the MIG, most people don't 
have the trouble I had with MIG.   I was able to pick up TIG in no time 
due to the my oxy/acet experience.

  I assume you meant MIG in your email, I would go with gas for any body 
work and avoid flux wire (just for clean up purposes, the weld is fine), 
if you meant TIG, that is the best in my opinion and yes it will do a 
better job then a MIG.  But remember a MIG is measured in feet per 
minute and a TIG weld in inches per minute. They are both great tools, I 
think MIG is better suited for thin sheet metal work if you can do it 
right.  But I go years without touching my MIG and use my TIG a few 
times a month.  I did do a exhaust for the daughters boyfriend's car 
last month and since I was welding on my back with the car barely off 
the ground I appreciated the MIG but I would have done a better looking 
job with TIG.

  So PRACTICE PRACTICE and when you are ready to start the real work, 
PRACTICE one more time and then come back here and brag how great a job 
you did.

     Mike
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 18:27:05 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 20:26:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Learning to weld on your own?
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On Mon, 29 Jul 2013, Darrell Walker wrote:
> 1.  Is it reasonable to think that I could teach myself to weld well 
> enough to do these jobs?  I definitely don't want to make anything 
> worse in attempting fix anything.

    Unless you are in a hurry, absolutely.  Get a welder, and some scrap 
metal, and start practicing.  Once you have the same problem consistently, 
go to weldingweb.com and ask for help.  Until you are consistent, there's 
not much point.  It just takes practice.  I got a TIG a couple years ago, 
and taught myself.  Sticking metal together is easy, I did that on the 
first day.  Making it look professional is hard, I'm still working on 
that.

> 2.  What kind of equipment would be required?  Would one of the inexpensive
> 110V welders be sufficient?  Would a TIG matter over a flux wire-feed for
> these jobs?

    It sounds like you are exclusively welding thin material, in which 
case, a 110V machine will do that just fine.  The operator is a far bigger 
variable than the machine.  You can get around 150 amps from a 110v 
machine, and the rule of thumb is .001" steel thickness requires 1 amp. 
More for aluminum and stainless, which doesn't seem relevant here.

    As far as the process is concerned, I think everyone finds whatever 
they learned first to be the easiest.  Stick guys can weld anything with 
a car battery and some jumper cables.  Again, it's the Indian, not the 
arrow.  I find TIG easier than anything else, but that's only because it 
is what I learned on, and what I practice.  I hate MIG.  Stick is fun, 
but tricky.  Again, all personal preference.

> 3.  How much paint should be removed around the repair holes?

    I would say a couple inches.  You aren't going to be putting all that 
much heat into it, just to patch a couple small holes, and you have to 
watch the heat to avoid warping the material.  When you practice, note 
how far the Heat-Affected Zone ( HAZ ) spreads.  Take off more paint than 
that.

    Have fun.  Be aware that once you learn to weld, nothing is ever truly 
broken again.  It's just a question of whether you have the time and 
desire to fix it ;)

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 19:02:48 2013
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To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Learning to weld on your own?
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Darrell - I'm not a good welder, so can't offer technical details about 
the different types of equipment, but I do have some other suggestions. 
  Some of this depends on your intentions for the car.

- Look for a local welder and get a quote for the welding work.  I did 
this to repair my cracked TR6 differential mounts and some frame 
cracking.  I did the prep on my schedule by cleaning down to bare metal 
and having the reinforcing brackets ready.  The car was up on jack 
stands and the differential and suspension parts were out of the way.  I 
did not have a welder or the power to run one in that apartment's 
garage.  The guy came out with a small welder and generator and charged 
me $60 for the job (a 1 hour minimum).  He finished it in about 30 
minutes and gave me a 30 minute credit for any work I brought to his 
shop.  Even if I could weld, lying on your back and welding above you 
doesn't sound like fun.  This was a 1995 price in the Los Angeles area. 
  Well worth the expense.

- When I rebuilt my TR6 engine, I also painted the engine compartment. 
I went down to bare metal and discovered several places where screw 
holes were filled with Bondo.  They were at least a decade old and I 
didn't have any idea they were there.  One side was painted and the 
other side was undercoated.  If the car is  a driver, consider just 
filling the holes with Bondo.  You will have to knock down the raised 
areas where the screws were.  This could be an option for the trim and 
luggage rack holes.

- For the rear panel, better Bondo may also be an option.  Clean up the 
old bad job then see about popping out the dent.    If you have access 
to both sides, you could get a Harbor Freight  7 Piece Body and Fender 
Set - item#31277, on sale for $29.99.  With a little time, you can get 
much closer and just have a thin layer of Bondo. I did this with my 
Subaru door after a neighbor backed into it and you couldn't tell after 
I painted.  A body shop wanted $740 for a job I did in a weekend plus 
two evenings.

- For removing old Bondo (outside), I used my angle grinder and a couple 
wire brushes.  I did most of the work with a cupped brush, but also had 
a disk and small ones in a drill.  Wear eye protection and at least a 
dusk mask if not a respirator.  You get down to nice clean metal that 
takes new Bondo and paint very well.

- If you do want to get into welding, check with a local welding supply 
company.  They may offer some sort of training program, especially with 
an equipment purchase.  Being a novice and not used to the equipment, 
you are also likely to need their assistance at some point - something 
you are not likely to get if you buy the equipment at a home center. 
They will probably also help set it up and make recommendations for 
settings.

- Finally, if you weld, pick up some trash body panels and practice 
welding before you get near your TR8.  Also keep a fire extinguisher 
handy just in case.

Brian


On 7/29/2013 3:54 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> I have some body repairs I'd like to do on my TR8, and I'm wondering about the
> feasibility of learning to weld well enough to do them on my own.  I've
> checked the local community college, and the only welding classes they have
> are geared toward students preparing for a career in welding, they don't have
> any "Adult Ed" type classes.  Of course, I could have a body shop do it, but
> the few that are willing to do this kind of work want to do the whole job at
> once, and not piecemeal (I also want a respray at some point).
>
> I have three different things to address:
>

>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 21:38:48 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
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Living in Texas and growing up on the west coast I am not very familiar 
with the affects of rust on vehicles.


I have been offered a 2000 Chevy extended cab, 4x4 pickup, 110,000 miles 
w/leather interior that looks good for its age for $5000. The problem is 
that both rocker panels are in need of replacement and about 25% of the 
paint on the frame has been replaced with surface rust. The rocker 
panels are not a big deal, but I am concerned about the frame rust. Is 
this something that a rust converter and paint will take care of, or 
should I pass on this vehicle? Other than the rust it looks to be very 
clean, and everything works on it!

Thanks in advance.

Peace,
Pat
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:02:20 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm going to state what I suspect is running through your mind. It depnds
on how much and how far the rust has penitrated the rails, if it has. Like
you said, you can pretty much build a new/old truck from catalogs, if you
care to write the check. If you decide to do ithe truck, I'd plan a frame
off to clean up and paint, maybe powder coat, the frame. You'll probably
pull the body to work on it anyway.

You might figure out what you think it'll cost you to buy and fix up the
truck, add 15%, then see what you can buy now for that amount. That's not
icluding your time, of course. Then again, maybe you're already looking at
it as a project.

FWIW,
Ron

On Monday, July 29, 2013, Pat Horne wrote:

> Living in Texas and growing up on the west coast I am not very familiar
> with the affects of rust on vehicles.
>
>
> I have been offered a 2000 Chevy extended cab, 4x4 pickup, 110,000 miles
> w/leather interior that looks good for its age for $5000. The problem is
> that both rocker panels are in need of replacement and about 25% of the
> paint on the frame has been replaced with surface rust. The rocker panels
> are not a big deal, but I am concerned about the frame rust. Is this
> something that a rust converter and paint will take care of, or should I
> pass on this vehicle? Other than the rust it looks to be very clean, and
> everything works on it!
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 07:20:29 -0500
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The frame rust is generally not a big deal, especially if the truck is
being moved out of the corrosive environment.  There are some places where
the rust is going to be a pain in the rear when you go to work on the
truck, as fasteners will be rusty, difficult to remove, and need to be
replaced instead of reused.  I have an '88 Chevy pickup with a fair amount
of frame rust that has been a midwest plow truck all it's life and I have
no major issues with it.  I also have a '95 Suburban that has 240k on it,
all in Iowa, all in snow ice and salt.  The only issue I had on the
Suburban was the hard fuel lines at the tank rusting out, and that didn't
happen till last year at 220k.  You do need to be more careful of trucks
that have been wrecked and are rusty, as these may have hidden frame
damage.  If that truck were offered to me today, I'd take it.  It is a good
price for that year and mileage if it is all in working order.


On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 9:38 PM, Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com> wrote:

> Living in Texas and growing up on the west coast I am not very familiar
> with the affects of rust on vehicles.
>
>
> I have been offered a 2000 Chevy extended cab, 4x4 pickup, 110,000 miles
> w/leather interior that looks good for its age for $5000. The problem is
> that both rocker panels are in need of replacement and about 25% of the
> paint on the frame has been replaced with surface rust. The rocker panels
> are not a big deal, but I am concerned about the frame rust. Is this
> something that a rust converter and paint will take care of, or should I
> pass on this vehicle? Other than the rust it looks to be very clean, and
> everything works on it!
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 30 08:46:32 2013
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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:43:01 -0500
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <51F72738.3090901@hornesystemstx.com>
	<CANuE7YD22v1tfYzf2cNMpT5Y+xbtg4dTVW56ehB2AALEfyCR1w@mail.gmail.com>
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	paulyd@pennyantepub.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It's not the frame rust that will be a problem, it's everything else 
that is rusted.
Brake lines, fuel lines, every fastener, bolt, fitting.
I live in Northern IL and have had salted vehicles my whole life.
I'm in the process of replacing all the rusted out brake lines on my 
mustang is right now.
The fuel lines will be next.
The body is in good shape, but everything underneath is rusted.

Penetrating oil will be your friend, spray early, spray often.  I like 
to start spraying fasteners long before starting to work on the parts, 
if I have the chance.

The nicest vehicle I had to work on was was a Suburban from texas that 
hadn't seen salt.  It was so nice to just put a wrench to things and 
have them come apart.
Quickest repair jobs I ever did, an I finished with a smile on my face.

Just something else to keep in mind.
Matt



-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 30 09:06:03 2013
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	<51F7D0F5.90605@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 11:05:55 -0400
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

This has been my experience as well.

For me, dealing with significant rust is something that I don't care to do.
 It would need to be a _heck_ of a deal on a rusty vehicle that needed work
to make we want to deal with it.

Mark


On Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 10:43 AM, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote:

> It's not the frame rust that will be a problem, it's everything else that
> is rusted.
> Brake lines, fuel lines, every fastener, bolt, fitting.
> I live in Northern IL and have had salted vehicles my whole life.
> I'm in the process of replacing all the rusted out brake lines on my
> mustang is right now.
> The fuel lines will be next.
> The body is in good shape, but everything underneath is rusted.
>
> Penetrating oil will be your friend, spray early, spray often.  I like to
> start spraying fasteners long before starting to work on the parts, if I
> have the chance.
>
> The nicest vehicle I had to work on was was a Suburban from texas that
> hadn't seen salt.  It was so nice to just put a wrench to things and have
> them come apart.
> Quickest repair jobs I ever did, an I finished with a smile on my face.
>
> Just something else to keep in mind.
> Matt
>
>
>
> --
> Matt Wehland
> (815) 295-4533
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/marka@**maracing.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com>
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 30 11:06:16 2013
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 11:58:34 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
	FILETIME=[85360460:01CE8D46]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The thing that would concern me is the amount of rust on a 2000 vehicle.  Cars
and trucks rust so much less since the introduction of galvanized sheet metal,
which was well before 2000.  I haven't seen rusted rocket panels on a 13 year
old vehicle in a long time. It makes me wonder what kind if abuse this truck
has seen.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2013, at 10:06 AM, "Mark Andy" <marka@maracing.com> wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> This has been my experience as well.
>
> For me, dealing with significant rust is something that I don't care to do.
> It would need to be a _heck_ of a deal on a rusty vehicle that needed work
> to make we want to deal with it.
>
> Mark
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 10:43 AM, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
wrote:
>
>> It's not the frame rust that will be a problem, it's everything else that
>> is rusted.
>> Brake lines, fuel lines, every fastener, bolt, fitting.
>> I live in Northern IL and have had salted vehicles my whole life.
>> I'm in the process of replacing all the rusted out brake lines on my
>> mustang is right now.
>> The fuel lines will be next.
>> The body is in good shape, but everything underneath is rusted.
>>
>> Penetrating oil will be your friend, spray early, spray often.  I like to
>> start spraying fasteners long before starting to work on the parts, if I
>> have the chance.
>>
>> The nicest vehicle I had to work on was was a Suburban from texas that
>> hadn't seen salt.  It was so nice to just put a wrench to things and have
>> them come apart.
>> Quickest repair jobs I ever did, an I finished with a smile on my face.
>>
>> Just something else to keep in mind.
>> Matt
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Matt Wehland
>> (815) 295-4533
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/shop-talk/marka@**maracing.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
shop-talk/marka@maracing.com>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 2:01:18 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>,  Darrell Walker
	<darrellw360@mac.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Learning to weld on your own?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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---- Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote: 
> I have some body repairs I'd like to do on my TR8, and I'm wondering about the
> feasibility of learning to weld well enough to do them on my own.  I've
> checked the local community college, and the only welding classes they have
> are geared toward students preparing for a career in welding, they don't have
> any "Adult Ed" type classes.

So?  They still teach you to weld, and surely you can manage to tolerate standing next to some pimply faced kid.  A friend of mine recently took some welding classes at our local community college, and he was very pleased.  I keep planning to take some myself, but there never seems to be enough time. (I actually kind of envy him getting laid off.) You might also try a vocational college, they get a lot of displaced workers looking for a new trade so you should fit right in.

> 1.  Is it reasonable to think that I could teach myself to weld well enough to
> do these jobs?  I definitely don't want to make anything worse in attempting
> fix anything.

I have dabbled some with teaching myself.  I believe it can be done, but you're talking about a lot of time and a lot of practice even after obtaining and reading some textbooks on the subject.  Run a bead, compare it to the book.  Repeat until you can consistently match the book.  Now cut it apart for inspection, adjust your technique for penetration, etc. and do it all again.  Now repeat the process, using metal and joints similar to what you want to do on the car.  Might want to visit the local junkyard for some car parts to cut apart (or drill) and weld back together.

Also poke around on YouTube; there are all sorts of "how to" videos.

> 2.  What kind of equipment would be required?  Would one of the inexpensive
> 110V welders be sufficient?

IMHO, although you might get away with 110v, you'll want one a better quality machine.  Those cheapies at HF are just junk.  Look for something with a contactor (so the torch is not electrically hot when the button isn't pressed) and the more current/voltage settings the better.  A good welder can adjust movement to match the machine, but I'm not that good.

>  Would a TIG matter over a flux wire-feed for
> these jobs?

Flux core makes an awful mess; IMO you shouldn't even consider it.  MIG is probably the best choice for sheet metal on a budget.  TIG is great, but the price of admission is significantly higher.

Another method that might be worth looking into (although it's much less popular) is torch brazing.  It's slower and more expensive, but IMO you are less likely to ruin your original sheet metal (since it doesn't get melted at all).  I don't claim to be good at it, but I can braze much better than I can stick weld.  And you can get started with just a MAPP gas torch and some rod.

> 3.  How much paint should be removed around the repair holes?

You'll need several inches, at least.  Remember the metal is heated to melting point where you are welding, so it's going to ruin the paint even outside the "heat affected zone".

--- Randall
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 08:04:05 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6Mh5d3JBPWNXGUS/aoBQIZynQ1DwBdrYJg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner
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> Is there an aerosol product using acetone or MEK on
> the commonly available market?

I don't know of one.  But liquid acetone and/or MEK should be available at
your local hardware store, and Amazon sells a refillable aerosol can.  (HF
used to have them too, but I don't see them on the web site now.)

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

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To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <99.8E.14128.E5729F15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 09:26:29 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Good idea!
I have a friend that works for a company that
has those refillable, air-chargable spot solvent
bottles.  Ibve contacted him and hebs got an extra one
for me!

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Randall
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:04 AM
To: 'Shop Talk'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner

> Is there an aerosol product using acetone or MEK on
> the commonly available market?

I don't know of one.  But liquid acetone and/or MEK should be available at
your local hardware store, and Amazon sells a refillable aerosol can.  (HF
used to have them too, but I don't see them on the web site now.)

-- Randall
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rust belt truck?
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I grew up in the rust belt; learned how to weld and fix (better
said...postpone) rust problems in a local body shop.
Made me decide to live in a non-rust area for the rest of my life, so I
could play with old cars without the rust issues.

restated, a 1964 Ferrari GTO or other uncommon car is worth de-rusting
along the way to making it "good" again.
a common/ easily available car, rust free, is worth any "extra" price.

example:  My wife and I flew out to Dallas, TX to buy a rust-free-life
2000 BMW M roadster; drove it home.
a month later, drove back out with my truck and trailer to pick up a 98
Roadster (minus engine) and towed it home... as a project for me.
A common practice among friends in the mid-west who live higher up... go
to TX and bring it home.

Just my opinion.... but another vote to pass on rust-belt common cars.
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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 16:38:51 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Most of those refillable plastic pump-spray bottles should work with most
solvents.
The are made from polythene, which acetone will not attack.  I once saw
some paint stripper
for sale which came with one of those spray bottles.

Doug


On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA <
gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:

> Good idea!
> I have a friend that works for a company that
> has those refillable, air-chargable spot solvent
> bottles.  Ib ve contacted him and heb s got an extra one
> for me!
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
>
> From: Randall
> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 8:04 AM
> To: 'Shop Talk'
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Aerosol cleaner
>
> > Is there an aerosol product using acetone or MEK on
> > the commonly available market?
>
> I don't know of one.  But liquid acetone and/or MEK should be available at
> your local hardware store, and Amazon sells a refillable aerosol can.  (HF
> used to have them too, but I don't see them on the web site now.)
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3349 / Virus Database: 3209/6531 - Release Date: 07/29/13
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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