Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question

From: Paul Parkanzky <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:01:35 -0400

I would definitely try a new breaker first, since they do fail
(although not as frequently as they used to).  If that doesn't work,
you'll need somebody smarter than me to help you.

-Paul

On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 2:14 PM,  <[email-masked]> wrote:
> OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier
> one.  Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and
> it makes the SO happy.
>
> Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO.  She only uses it to relax her
> muscles since her car accident.  But here is the problem...
>
> The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*)  But now, when she
> starts it up, it trips the breaker.  I called the company and the breaker
> size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10%
> over max rating.)
>
> And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the
> extra current draw?  (and more importantly, how do I find it?)
>
> Do I just try another breaker first?  is there a way to measure it?
> Thanks.
>
>
> *= I got this unit used from someone who had it.  They got rid of it
> because it 'sparked and made  a loud noise.'  When I got it home, turns
> out that one of the connectors had shorted.  I fixed the connector and
> have been using it since.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
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From: Pat Horne <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 15:01:57 -0500

I agree, try a different breaker first. If you have a breaker of the 
same size (rating) in the breaker box, just steal it to check.

There shouldn't be too much in electrics in the bed, so it is worth a 
shot. I suspect a timer, some fluorescent tubes with their ballasts and 
possibly some safety interlock switches.

After the breaker I'd try disconnecting the ballasts from the input 
feed. There may be a plug in relay in the control box that can be 
unplugged to do this.  If it still blows the breaker look a problem with 
the timer or input wiring.

I the breaker holds, start connecting the ballasts one by one until the 
breaker trips. Leave the last added ballast disconnected and try 
connecting the rest one by one until you have all of them connected that 
don't cause the breaker to trip.

At this point disconnect the output of the possibly defective ballast, 
then connect the input of the ballast and see if the breaker trips. If 
it trips you probably have a bad ballast. If it doesn't check the wiring 
between the ballast and the lights.

We can take this off list if you like, just email me.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake eric

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-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
[email-masked]	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 16:55:56 -0700

Eric - I agree that you should try another breaker.  But first, when you 
trip the breaker what else goes out?  In other words, is it a dedicated 
circuit for the bed or is the circuit shared with something else?  As an 
example, I can't start my compressor when the living room TV is on or I 
trip the breaker.  Even then, to start it initially, I have to pulse it 
a few times or it trips the breaker. My situation is a 15A compressor on 
a 20A circuit, but it is a good distance from the breaker box with 
several connections along the way.   (The house came this way - a future 
project.)

You may also have a bad outlet.  You could try a good 20A outlet (one of 
the prong holes looks like a sideways "T") and don't use the push in 
connector/back-wire.  You want a large part of the wire well clamped for 
a great connection.

Do you have a different circuit near enough to try?  That is also a 
quick check.

I've never used one, but search for "clamp on amp meter".  It seems like 
a easy solution to check the current going to the bed.  Check it 
compared to the power tag on the bed.  If you don't have one, you can 
buy a new tool.  Amazon had them starting about $20.

If all of that is good, I'd try the top or bottom of the bed by itself.  
My assumption here is that one part may be bad and turning off a bank of 
lights is easier than individual lights.  The top and bottom should each 
pull a near equal current, so you can do a process of elimination and 
look for the problem - half of the top/bottom, then half of the next bad 
half, etc.

Also, that connector that shorted may have failed due to an overload, so 
I'd look at what is around it as well.

Brian

On 5/6/2013 11:14 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
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