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Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 15:06:07 -0400
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
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On Mon, Apr 29, 2013 at 09:03:17PM -0700, Mark Miller wrote:
> Convince me I need to fix the Echo and use a real tool. 

Eh, use whatever gets the job done with the least amount of trouble.

I have a Stihl brushcutter that I use for clearing out fence rows on my
parents' farm.  It's well-built and has seen a lot of use.  It's also loud,
heavy and when I'm done, I smell like 2-cycle exhaust.  I also have a Troy-bilt 
electric trimmer.  It doesn't leak, it's (relatively) quiet, it always starts
when I pull the trigger and winterizing it consists of hanging it on a hook.

Guess which one gets used if I'm anywhere near a power outlet...

(Another thing that gets used a *lot* on the farm is a string trimmer on 
two-wheels.  Uses a 6.5hp lawn mower engine and it'll go through just about
anything.  Things that would require me to mount a blade to the brushcutter
don't faze this guy.  It'll cut through reeds and corn with the engine idling.
If it were less bulky, I'd probably ditch the Stihl entirely)

JM
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 19:15:49 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
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Mark Miller wrote:
>
>
> Ok.  So my Echo string trimmer was acting up.  Seemed like a fuel problem;
> it would start but not run well, stall out, and needed the throttle and
> choke played with to keep it going.  

This is going to sound silly, but my trimmer acted like this once.  When
taking it apart to fix it, I took off the air filter and housing, and
discovered that bolts that held the carb to the engine were a bit loose.
Tightened those, put the filter back on, and everything worked just fine.

Tim Mullen
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  2 08:48:09 2013
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2013 07:29:17 -0700
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
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On 05/01/2013 12:06 PM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:
> when I'm done, I smell like 2-cycle exhaust.

Get some Redline twostroke oil.  I prefer their Allsport for power 
equipment (I also used it in my trials motorcycles).
It's a low deposit synthetic oil, made for applications like outboard 
motors which may have to idle for a long time without fouling a plug and 
still handle a WFO run back to the dock for beer.  It is not that expensive.

But the great thing about Redline twostroke oils, besides lubricating 
well, is that they make the exhaust smell good.
Not like unicorn farts or strawberries, but like castor based two-stroke 
oils.  It makes weed whacking smell like the race track without the eye 
watering race gas.

I started using in trials bikes because in trials you do a lot of low 
speed riding and often practice the same obstacle over and over, so you 
get to smell your exhaust.  And when competing you sometimes wait in a 
line of a few bikes.  The Motul I had been using made the exhaust smell 
nasty and other competitors complained.

You'll still smell like exhaust but you won't mind so much.

Eric
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  2 10:40:21 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 12:06:08 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/02/2013 12:06:11, Serialize complete at
	05/02/2013 12:06:11
Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
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OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to 
work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work!  8>)

I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every 
door.  That means lots of swiping all day long.  Of course everyone wears 
their card around their neck or on little pull chains.  I put mine in my 
wallet.

The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ 

Here is the question.  I would love to be able to put my card in my cell 
phone case and just use that to swipe the readers.  Problem...

The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card.  In fact, 
if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no 
where near it), the reader can't read it.

I've also tried a product like this 
http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/ 
 .

But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and 
reader) it still doesn't read the card.

So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to make 
the card reader still see the card?  It needs to be thin.

If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to autox.team.net 
in their name!

I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. 

Thanks!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
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Can't figure that one out.  A piece of aluminum foil keeps my office key and bus pass separated just fine.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: eric@megageek.com
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2013 11:06:08 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
> OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to
> work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>)
> 
> I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every
> door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone
> wears
> their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in
> my
> wallet.
> 
> The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/
> 
> Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my
> cell
> phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem...
> 
> The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In
> fact,
> if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no
> where near it), the reader can't read it.
> 
> I've also tried a product like this
> http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/
> .
> 
> But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and
> reader) it still doesn't read the card.
> 
> So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to
> make
> the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin.
> 
> If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to
> autox.team.net
> in their name!
> 
> I know there are EE's out there that can answer this.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Eric P
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  2 11:54:10 2013
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2013 12:27:56 -0500
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
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I've always said that the sensors should be a little below hip level so 
you can just wave your butt at them, with the card in your wallet.
Then you can open doors with your hands full.
I've been in places where that works.  It was nice.
Then others that placed the sensor higher so you have to pull your 
wallet out all the time.
The most fun I had was one time I had misplaced (left it 1000 miles 
away) a card, got a replacement then later ended up with both of them in 
my wallet.
Swiping would work some times and not others, frustrated me for days 
until I went to HR to have my card checked out and found I had 2 of them 
in my wallet, one active and one not.

No real solution for you here, sorry.

Matt

On 5/2/2013 11:44 AM, pethier@comcast.net wrote:
> Can't figure that one out.  A piece of aluminum foil keeps my office key and bus pass separated just fine.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: eric@megageek.com
>> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
>> Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2013 11:06:08 AM
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
>> OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to
>> work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work! 8>)
>>
>> I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every
>> door. That means lots of swiping all day long. Of course everyone
>> wears
>> their card around their neck or on little pull chains. I put mine in
>> my
>> wallet.
>>
>> The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/
>>
>> Here is the question. I would love to be able to put my card in my
>> cell
>> phone case and just use that to swipe the readers. Problem...
>>
>> The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card. In
>> fact,
>> if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no
>> where near it), the reader can't read it.
>>
>> I've also tried a product like this
>> http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/
>> .
>>
>> But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and
>> reader) it still doesn't read the card.
>>
>> So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to
>> make
>> the card reader still see the card? It needs to be thin.
>>
>> If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to
>> autox.team.net
>> in their name!
>>
>> I know there are EE's out there that can answer this.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Eric P
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mjw@littlegrassy.com
>
>


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<5182A21C.8040808@littlegrassy.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 14:13:18 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This situation has been described very well in a musical number in a stage
show I
saw a few years ago:

  http://vimeo.com/9282524

Doug


On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote:

> I've always said that the sensors should be a little below hip level so
> you can just wave your butt at them, with the card in your wallet.
> Then you can open doors with your hands full.
> I've been in places where that works.  It was nice.
> Then others that placed the sensor higher so you have to pull your wallet
> out all the time.
> The most fun I had was one time I had misplaced (left it 1000 miles away)
> a card, got a replacement then later ended up with both of them in my
> wallet.
> Swiping would work some times and not others, frustrated me for days until
> I went to HR to have my card checked out and found I had 2 of them in my
> wallet, one active and one not.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:51:54 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net, eric@megageek.com
	s=q20121106; t=1367520715;
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Most of the modern proxcards are the 'electrostatic' type. The sensor energizes a transponder circuit in the card and it transmits back the key code. 

A cellphone in proximity might overwhelm the transponder. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: pethier@comcast.net 
To: eric@megageek.com 
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net 
Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2013 9:44:49 AM 
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here. 

Can't figure that one out. A piece of aluminum foil keeps my office key and bus pass separated just fine. 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  2 13:28:09 2013
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Date: Thu, 02 May 2013 15:12:40 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF2ADEBC0C.055108C5-ON85257B5F.0057A51F-85257B5F.00598997@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
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Yeah, the only good answer for this I've ever seen is to replace the 
system with one that can deal with phones. When my firm built a new 
office they went with fey fobs that could handle phones just fine.

Of course they couldn't stay functional on their own for more than a day 
or two at a clip, but when they worked, phones were no problem.

Of all the systems at clients' offices I've ever seen, it seems to be 
just as arbitrary--some are rock solid and will work no matter what, all 
the time, such that I wonder if they doors are just on a generic 
proximity sensor and the cards are just placebos, while others might 
work once, if that.

My solution is to do away with the things unless you really do happen to 
work in an industry that needs them. They're one of those 'progress' 
things and feels more like regression. An architectural firm doesn't 
have any state secrets in its file room, much less its foyer.

On 5/2/2013 12:06 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to
> work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work!  8>)
>
> I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every
> door.  That means lots of swiping all day long.  Of course everyone wears
> their card around their neck or on little pull chains.  I put mine in my
> wallet.
>
> The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/
>
> Here is the question.  I would love to be able to put my card in my cell
> phone case and just use that to swipe the readers.  Problem...
>
> The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card.  In fact,
> if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no
> where near it), the reader can't read it.
>
> I've also tried a product like this
> http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/productinfo/IDSH1002-001/
>   .
>
> But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and
> reader) it still doesn't read the card.
>
> So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to make
> the card reader still see the card?  It needs to be thin.
>
> If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to autox.team.net
> in their name!
>
> I know there are EE's out there that can answer this.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 20:08:51 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
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---- Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com> wrote: 
> I've always said that the sensors should be a little below hip level so 
> you can just wave your butt at them, with the card in your wallet.

I know one reason that might not be a good idea.  A previous employer had them at butt level and used them to track when we were in the building (and what building).  I always kept my card in my hip pocket (although I pulled it out for use).  A large percentage of the time, the incoming reader would trigger on the card in my jeans as I walked out through the turnstile.  Then when the next person came in, the system would log that I had come back in, rather than the other person.

The system didn't allow more than one to go in or out on the same card, so when that person then tried to leave, the system wouldn't let them!  Lots of confusion, which I found thoroughly amusing.  I quickly learned to lean over the turnstile, wave my card at the reader on the other side, then turn it in (so the system thought I just came in), so then it would let me out.  The guards looked at me funny, but had no procedure that said I couldn't do that, so they never objected.

Of course, the problem would have been a lot more serious if there hadn't been a guard to override the system (or no way to lean over and trigger the other reader).

Just for grins, I tried my current card with it held tightly to my cell phone.  Still works solidly with the phone on the outside of the card, and even sometimes with the phone between the reader and card!

And they aren't just proximity detectors, because some doors around here won't open for me. (I'm not authorized to be on the roof, for example.)  So far, the only failures I've seen have been pretty obvious, like when one of the readers filled with rain water or several months after the card delaminated (from the constant flexing when I sit on it).

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF2ADEBC0C.055108C5-ON85257B5F.0057A51F-85257B5F.00598997@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:36:54 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5HU5/ZduvR6RbfQM+wuGG+qfPB4gAUqvdA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I keep my "swipe" card in my wallet and hip-check the door sensor.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric@megageek.com
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 9:06 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Toughest EE question ever asked here.

OK, it's a stretch to say this is shop related, but IF I can get it to 
work, it will be lots of 'cred' for me at work!  8>)

I work at a building that requires proximity cards at just about every 
door.  That means lots of swiping all day long.  Of course everyone wears 
their card around their neck or on little pull chains.  I put mine in my 
wallet.

The system we have is made by http://www.amerisys.com/ 

Here is the question.  I would love to be able to put my card in my cell 
phone case and just use that to swipe the readers.  Problem...

The phone interferes with the reader's ability to read the card.  In fact, 
if I put a piece of aluminum foil behind the card (and my phone is no 
where near it), the reader can't read it.

I've also tried a product like this 
http://www.idstronghold.com/Secure-Sleeve-for-Passports-IDSH1002-001-/produc
tinfo/IDSH1002-001/ 
 .

But if I have that *behind* the card (meaning not between the card and 
reader) it still doesn't read the card.

So, to the question, What can I put between my cell phone and card to make 
the card reader still see the card?  It needs to be thin.

If someone can get me the answer, I'll make a donation to autox.team.net 
in their name!

I know there are EE's out there that can answer this. 

Thanks!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC><20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org>
	<5182783D.6010906@lne.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:42:10 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5HQ9RF0nIz/Ob9TRC1nh45GAswygAYj6eg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

+1 on Redline synthetic two stroke oil.  It's all I use.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Murray
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 7:29 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong

On 05/01/2013 12:06 PM, Jimmie Mayfield wrote:
> when I'm done, I smell like 2-cycle exhaust.

Get some Redline twostroke oil.  I prefer their Allsport for power 
equipment (I also used it in my trials motorcycles).
It's a low deposit synthetic oil, made for applications like outboard 
motors which may have to idle for a long time without fouling a plug and 
still handle a WFO run back to the dock for beer.  It is not that expensive.

But the great thing about Redline twostroke oils, besides lubricating 
well, is that they make the exhaust smell good.
Not like unicorn farts or strawberries, but like castor based two-stroke 
oils.  It makes weed whacking smell like the race track without the eye 
watering race gas.

I started using in trials bikes because in trials you do a lot of low 
speed riding and often practice the same obstacle over and over, so you 
get to smell your exhaust.  And when competing you sometimes wait in a 
line of a few bikes.  The Motul I had been using made the exhaust smell 
nasty and other competitors complained.

You'll still smell like exhaust but you won't mind so much.

Eric
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May  3 06:06:13 2013
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Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 07:53:43 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC><20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org>
	<5182783D.6010906@lne.com>
	<1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 5/2/2013 10:42 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> +1 on Redline synthetic two stroke oil.  It's all I use.
>
>> Get some Redline twostroke oil.  I prefer their Allsport for power
>> equipment (I also used it in my trials motorcycles).

Another good alternative that may be a little cheaper: Yamaha's 2 stroke 
oil, "YamaLube" comes in "2S" for machines with oil injection pumps, and 
"2R" for pre-mix with gas. Started using it when I got my bike, and then 
tried it in the little power equipment, and was very pleased at the 
improvement. It's around $7 - $9/qt at bike shops that are Yamaha 
dealers, or mail order.

-Wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May  6 12:36:51 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 14:14:53 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/06/2013 14:14:57, Serialize complete at
	05/06/2013 14:14:57
Subject: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier 
one.  Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and 
it makes the SO happy.

Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO.  She only uses it to relax her 
muscles since her car accident.  But here is the problem...

The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*)  But now, when she 
starts it up, it trips the breaker.  I called the company and the breaker 
size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10% 
over max rating.)

And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the 
extra current draw?  (and more importantly, how do I find it?)

Do I just try another breaker first?  is there a way to measure it? 
Thanks.


*= I got this unit used from someone who had it.  They got rid of it 
because it 'sparked and made  a loud noise.'  When I got it home, turns 
out that one of the connectors had shorted.  I fixed the connector and 
have been using it since.

Thanks again

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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References: <OF9EB21F63.DB3F2EF6-ON85257B63.0063DE61-85257B63.006553EF@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:01:35 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would definitely try a new breaker first, since they do fail
(although not as frequently as they used to).  If that doesn't work,
you'll need somebody smarter than me to help you.

-Paul

On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 2:14 PM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier
> one.  Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and
> it makes the SO happy.
>
> Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO.  She only uses it to relax her
> muscles since her car accident.  But here is the problem...
>
> The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*)  But now, when she
> starts it up, it trips the breaker.  I called the company and the breaker
> size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10%
> over max rating.)
>
> And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the
> extra current draw?  (and more importantly, how do I find it?)
>
> Do I just try another breaker first?  is there a way to measure it?
> Thanks.
>
>
> *= I got this unit used from someone who had it.  They got rid of it
> because it 'sparked and made  a loud noise.'  When I got it home, turns
> out that one of the connectors had shorted.  I fixed the connector and
> have been using it since.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May  6 14:09:33 2013
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 15:01:57 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF9EB21F63.DB3F2EF6-ON85257B63.0063DE61-85257B63.006553EF@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree, try a different breaker first. If you have a breaker of the 
same size (rating) in the breaker box, just steal it to check.

There shouldn't be too much in electrics in the bed, so it is worth a 
shot. I suspect a timer, some fluorescent tubes with their ballasts and 
possibly some safety interlock switches.

After the breaker I'd try disconnecting the ballasts from the input 
feed. There may be a plug in relay in the control box that can be 
unplugged to do this.  If it still blows the breaker look a problem with 
the timer or input wiring.

I the breaker holds, start connecting the ballasts one by one until the 
breaker trips. Leave the last added ballast disconnected and try 
connecting the rest one by one until you have all of them connected that 
don't cause the breaker to trip.

At this point disconnect the output of the possibly defective ballast, 
then connect the input of the ballast and see if the breaker trips. If 
it trips you probably have a bad ballast. If it doesn't check the wiring 
between the ballast and the lights.

We can take this off list if you like, just email me.


Peace,
Pat


Thusly spake eric

> OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier
> one.  Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and
> it makes the SO happy.
>
> Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO.  She only uses it to relax her
> muscles since her car accident.  But here is the problem...
>
> The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*)  But now, when she
> starts it up, it trips the breaker.  I called the company and the breaker
> size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10%
> over max rating.)
>
> And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the
> extra current draw?  (and more importantly, how do I find it?)
>
> Do I just try another breaker first?  is there a way to measure it?
> Thanks.
>
>
> *= I got this unit used from someone who had it.  They got rid of it
> because it 'sparked and made  a loud noise.'  When I got it home, turns
> out that one of the connectors had shorted.  I fixed the connector and
> have been using it since.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 13:02:22 -0700
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC><20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org>
	<5182783D.6010906@lne.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 05/03/2013 04:53 AM, Wayne wrote:
>
> Another good alternative that may be a little cheaper: Yamaha's 2 
> stroke oil, "YamaLube" comes in "2S" for machines with oil injection 
> pumps, and "2R" for pre-mix with gas. Started using it when I got my 
> bike, and then tried it in the little power equipment, and was very 
> pleased at the improvement. It's around $7 - $9/qt at bike shops that 
> are Yamaha dealers, or mail order.

Yamalube is good stuff.  All their chemicals are.  I used to use their 
case sealant on my british motorcycles
which have especially poor case mating surfaces.  My Triumph didn't leak 
after I was done rebuilding it with Yamabond #4 and #5.

But the Redline oil will make the exhaust smell better.

Eric.
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From: Tom Shirley <miatatom@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:05:41 -0400
To: Shop Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor.
I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a
powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the
prices are from cheap to not so cheap.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

Tom Shirley
www.sceniccitymiatas.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 22:11:16 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the 
> extra current draw?  (and more importantly, how do I find it?)

Just a thought; could something else have gotten connected to the circuit in the meantime?

> *= I got this unit used from someone who had it.  They got rid of it 
> because it 'sparked and made  a loud noise.'  When I got it home, turns 
> out that one of the connectors had shorted.  I fixed the connector and 
> have been using it since.

Given that history, I'd be going through the bed looking for more problems like another short or a bad ballast.

Randall
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To: Tom Shirley <miatatom@gmail.com>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAP2zj2_2zrw-A+Gt5D70CPCCpcanw9tWZC0=62b5gUHmO0-j2g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 5/6/2013 6:05 PM, Tom Shirley wrote:
> My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor.
> I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a
> powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the
> prices are from cheap to not so cheap.
> Any suggestions or recommendations?

I prefer to go wired when easy, but sounds like a perfect wi-fi 
application. You do have wi-fi in the house, no? I've used this EdiMax 
NIC from NewEgg.com with good results. $17, free shipping.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315096

-wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May  6 16:19:53 2013
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:17:17 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Tom Shirley <miatatom@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Any reason not to get a wireless router?  Two stories shouldn't be too
far for it to work and if it is, relocate your router to the main
floor and you can easily cover the whole house.  A decent wireless
router and a USB wireless adapter are probably no more expensive than
the powerline stuff you're looking at and you can connect any device
you want from anywhere in your house if you ever want to add more.

-Paul

On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 6:05 PM, Tom Shirley <miatatom@gmail.com> wrote:
> My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor.
> I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a
> powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the
> prices are from cheap to not so cheap.
>
> Any suggestions or recommendations?
>
> Tom Shirley
> www.sceniccitymiatas.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 16:45:57 -0700
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130329
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To: Shop Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] chicken yard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

After bobcats ate all our chickens we're building a new chicken 
fortress.  The yard needs to be covered on the top in addition to side 
fencing.  We're planning on using chicken wire for the top. But we need 
something to hold the wire (and a bobcat or two) up. The yard is sort of 
triangular about 40' across the sides, with one corner truncated.

I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My 
wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough 
unless it's large diameter.  I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit.  Do 
y'all think that'll be sturdy enough?

Eric
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:48:53 -0400
To: Tom Shirley <miatatom@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used with good success the Netgear Ethernet over Power adapters. I
have used the XE102 and XE104 adapters, both of which are no longer in
production. Their actual throughput is about half of their raw throughput,
but they work well.

If you buy a set, test them and be prepared to return them - in case they
do not work between the outlets you choose.

-Peter


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 6:05 PM, Tom Shirley <miatatom@gmail.com> wrote:

> My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor.
> I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a
> powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the
> prices are from cheap to not so cheap.
>
> Any suggestions or recommendations?
>
> Tom Shirley
> www.sceniccitymiatas.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chicken yard
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On 5/6/2013 4:45 PM, Eric Murray wrote:

> I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My
> wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough
> unless it's large diameter.  I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit.  Do
> y'all think that'll be sturdy enough?

How about hurricane fence (aka chain-link) posts? Seems to be similar to 
1" galvie pipe plus it has an infrastructure of parts available.

jim
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 16:55:56 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF9EB21F63.DB3F2EF6-ON85257B63.0063DE61-85257B63.006553EF@mail.megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Easier EE question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric - I agree that you should try another breaker.  But first, when you 
trip the breaker what else goes out?  In other words, is it a dedicated 
circuit for the bed or is the circuit shared with something else?  As an 
example, I can't start my compressor when the living room TV is on or I 
trip the breaker.  Even then, to start it initially, I have to pulse it 
a few times or it trips the breaker. My situation is a 15A compressor on 
a 20A circuit, but it is a good distance from the breaker box with 
several connections along the way.   (The house came this way - a future 
project.)

You may also have a bad outlet.  You could try a good 20A outlet (one of 
the prong holes looks like a sideways "T") and don't use the push in 
connector/back-wire.  You want a large part of the wire well clamped for 
a great connection.

Do you have a different circuit near enough to try?  That is also a 
quick check.

I've never used one, but search for "clamp on amp meter".  It seems like 
a easy solution to check the current going to the bed.  Check it 
compared to the power tag on the bed.  If you don't have one, you can 
buy a new tool.  Amazon had them starting about $20.

If all of that is good, I'd try the top or bottom of the bed by itself.  
My assumption here is that one part may be bad and turning off a bank of 
lights is easier than individual lights.  The top and bottom should each 
pull a near equal current, so you can do a process of elimination and 
look for the problem - half of the top/bottom, then half of the next bad 
half, etc.

Also, that connector that shorted may have failed due to an overload, so 
I'd look at what is around it as well.

Brian


On 5/6/2013 11:14 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, Since I'm out of luck for my other EE question, let me try an easier
> one.  Note, not much shop content, but it does allow me to use tools, and
> it makes the SO happy.
>
> Anyway, I got a tanning bad for the SO.  She only uses it to relax her
> muscles since her car accident.  But here is the problem...
>
> The machine worked fine for a while (I got it used*)  But now, when she
> starts it up, it trips the breaker.  I called the company and the breaker
> size (and wiring) I ran was for the correct size (I think it was a 10%
> over max rating.)
>
> And since the machine worked fine for a while, what could be causing the
> extra current draw?  (and more importantly, how do I find it?)
>
> Do I just try another breaker first?  is there a way to measure it?
> Thanks.
>
>
> *= I got this unit used from someone who had it.  They got rid of it
> because it 'sparked and made  a loud noise.'  When I got it home, turns
> out that one of the connectors had shorted.  I fixed the connector and
> have been using it since.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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References: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> <51884255.7030203@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:11:39 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chicken yard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You'd have to have strong perimeter posts/buildings/trees but heavy
gauge galvanized wire, like guy-wire, might be worth a  thought.

On 06/05/2013, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
> On 5/6/2013 4:45 PM, Eric Murray wrote:
>
>> I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My
>> wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough
>> unless it's large diameter.  I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit.  Do
>> y'all think that'll be sturdy enough?
>
> How about hurricane fence (aka chain-link) posts? Seems to be similar to
> 1" galvie pipe plus it has an infrastructure of parts available.
>
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
*I predict future happiness for Americans if  they can prevent the
government from wasting the labors of the people  under the pretense of
taking care of them.*
*Thomas  Jefferson*
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References: <CAP2zj2_2zrw-A+Gt5D70CPCCpcanw9tWZC0=62b5gUHmO0-j2g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 5/6/2013 3:05 PM, Tom Shirley wrote:
> My home is 2 stories with a basement and the router is on the top floor.
> I'd like to be able to set up a small computer in the basement using a
> powerline network adapter. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay and the
> prices are from cheap to not so cheap.
>
> Any suggestions or recommendations

I'm using some TP-Link powerline Ethernet devices to connect my 
sprinkler timers and etc. to the household network, they work well and 
were very much plug-and-play.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 20:39:47 -0500
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <518840B5.50807@lne.com> <51884255.7030203@groupwbench.org>
	<CA+7Nz3pHHxpP2RvY6yXT7Qm4yvGSAHqBgUdhFkAxhtsMzdGeQg@mail.gmail.com>
	with any abuse report
	paulyd@pennyantepub.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] chicken yard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Try looking into some chicken forums.
I've never had any, but seriously looked into chickens when I lived in 
the country.
The one thing every body agreed on is 'chicken wire' isn't.  It is 
useless against predators, too light to offer much protection.
Hardware cloth is what was recommended.
I read too many stories of people using chicken wire and then still 
loosing birds.
Also keep in mind the paw size of predators, many will reach in and pull 
the heads off of the chickens, even if they can't get in the coop 
themselves.
And don't forget some will dig under the pen.
You basically need a full cage, side/top and bottom protection.

Some chicken sites, no idea how good they are any more-
www.backyardchickens.com/
http://www.chickenforum.com/f20/
http://poultrycommunity.com/forum/forum.php

Matt

On 5/6/2013 7:11 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
> You'd have to have strong perimeter posts/buildings/trees but heavy
> gauge galvanized wire, like guy-wire, might be worth a  thought.
>
> On 06/05/2013, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:
>> On 5/6/2013 4:45 PM, Eric Murray wrote:
>>
>>> I was going to use some old well pipe I have but it's really heavy. My
>>> wife wants to use PVC pipe but I don't think it will be sturdy enough
>>> unless it's large diameter.  I was thinking 1" galvanized conduit.  Do
>>> y'all think that'll be sturdy enough?
>> How about hurricane fence (aka chain-link) posts? Seems to be similar to
>> 1" galvie pipe plus it has an infrastructure of parts available.
>>
>> jim
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
>>
>>
>


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC><20130501190607.GA80220@sackheads.org><5182783D.6010906@lne.com><1BCE251E61ED423899E80E2C32C0E97C@EntCentPC><5183A547.4080708@xxiii.com>
	<51880C4E.3030801@lne.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:18:22 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5KlWN8OtoOZ0/EQEi2Lzrpg+pOWAAMt3fQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you really want the nice 2-stroke smell use castor oil.  We use it in our
RC Nitro engines and every once in a while, like when we are heading for a
classic cruise night, I'll dump a pint into my 1960 Triumph TR3's gas tank.
Makes that vintage car smell even better.

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Murray
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 1:02 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong

On 05/03/2013 04:53 AM, Wayne wrote:
>
> Another good alternative that may be a little cheaper: Yamaha's 2 
> stroke oil, "YamaLube" comes in "2S" for machines with oil injection 
> pumps, and "2R" for pre-mix with gas. Started using it when I got my 
> bike, and then tried it in the little power equipment, and was very 
> pleased at the improvement. It's around $7 - $9/qt at bike shops that 
> are Yamaha dealers, or mail order.

Yamalube is good stuff.  All their chemicals are.  I used to use their 
case sealant on my british motorcycles
which have especially poor case mating surfaces.  My Triumph didn't leak 
after I was done rebuilding it with Yamabond #4 and #5.

But the Redline oil will make the exhaust smell better.

Eric.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  7 00:24:38 2013
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 07:19:33 +0100
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<CAJ8HLP9m=e2aoREQX5je6v9khKEhQY5H29oPzs5i3EdoAYDWtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Powerline Network Adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter Murray wrote:
> I have used with good success the Netgear Ethernet over Power adapters. I
> have used the XE102 and XE104 adapters, both of which are no longer in
> production. Their actual throughput is about half of their raw throughput,
> but they work well.
>
> If you buy a set, test them and be prepared to return them - in case they
> do not work between the outlets you choose.
>
>
+1 on the Netgear stuff. I have used their Wireless-N Powerline AV200 
Extender Kit for 18 months and been happy with it. Bought it from Amazon 
and have not had to return it.

I don't have Peter's expertise to be able to measure its output but it 
appears quite adequate. We live in an old house with many brick walls. 
As far as I can see wifi signals travel vertically much better than 
laterally, in others words walls present more resistance than floors. 
Hence the need for the extender. It worked well in the shop, a separate 
building about 30 feet from the house, when tried as an experiment.

Nick Brearley
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 stroke oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 5/6/2013 4:02 PM, Eric Murray wrote:
> Yamalube is good stuff.  All their chemicals are.  I used to use their
> case sealant on my british motorcycles
> which have especially poor case mating surfaces.  My Triumph didn't leak
> after I was done rebuilding it with Yamabond #4 and #5.
> But the Redline oil will make the exhaust smell better.

HuhHuh, I don't know if the YamaLube makes it "better". I can say its 
smell is slightly noticable it in the exhaust, but it doesn't make my 
hair and clothes REEK of burned oil like the typical junk sold for power 
equipment. And it's under $10/qt vs > $15/qt for RedLine. And it's a lot 
easier to find on a local store's shelves vs RedLine.

I am a huge RedLine fan tho -- run it in my transmissions, just dumped 
2qts in the Lexus' rear diff last weekend, and use the "Lightweight 
Shockproof" in the bike's rear drive case.

-Wayne
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 12:22:45 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5MEHYXT0PD3JwtQPCfWLlcypSVyA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Shop-talk] Electronic engine valves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe you've already seen this, but if not.

These things are similar to electronic fuel injectors on steroids, installed
in the intake and exhaust tracts.

Depending on how they're installed, doing a valve job could be a quick,
screw-in procedure.  For that matter, the head really needn't be detachable
unless necessary for ease of manufacturing in a particular engine.  And your
cam profile will be in the computer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bch5B23_pu0

Karl
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 14:53:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: koblinger@verizon.net
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Electronic engine valves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:22:30 -0400
	FILETIME=[A3AAE1C0:01CE4CC0]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing
garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the
price is a bit high...
So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot
of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go
about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work
space.
Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving up
about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor lines,
heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch.  Security system included,   Private cul
de sac in nice area.  I've seen the house and garage with a realtor.
One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them
especially since I'd barely know them upon move in.  So starting out small
might be a good thing.  Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, so
the neighbors can't be all that surprised.  hehe.
So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what or
how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things are
guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, and
what kinds of issues do you run into?
The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the
way.. :-)   The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, so at
least we'd have a place for other stuff.
BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who
rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought it.
Thanks
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 10:46:09 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W425F239163CBFE706E2F139AA40@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Man, there is NO way I'm letting you keep your car in my garage, whether 
you pay me for that or not.

At least not without enough insurance to ballast a small aircraft 
carrier. And maybe not even then.

On 5/9/2013 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
> Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing
> garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the
> price is a bit high...
> So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot
> of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go
> about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work
> space.
> Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving up
> about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor lines,
> heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch.  Security system included,   Private cul
> de sac in nice area.  I've seen the house and garage with a realtor.
> One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them
> especially since I'd barely know them upon move in.  So starting out small
> might be a good thing.  Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, so
> the neighbors can't be all that surprised.  hehe.
> So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what or
> how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things are
> guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, and
> what kinds of issues do you run into?
> The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the
> way.. :-)   The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, so at
> least we'd have a place for other stuff.
> BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who
> rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought it.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 09:11:28 2013
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	<518BB6B1.3080306@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:08:55 -0400
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There is an organization near Ann Arbor called the "Ypsi Yacht Club"
that operates as a community garage.  They have a couple of warehouses
linked together and rent storage and work bays to members.  They also
have a collection of community tools (Air, a lift, etc.).  It's a
really cool setup for auto enthusiasts and there were a lot of neat
projects going on when I visited their open house.

One of the things I wondered was how they handled insurance, since
they had a big collection of fairly high-dollar cars there and people
working with power tools are bound to injure themselves or somebody
else eventually.

-Paul

On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 10:46 AM, Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:
> Man, there is NO way I'm letting you keep your car in my garage, whether you
> pay me for that or not.
>
> At least not without enough insurance to ballast a small aircraft carrier.
> And maybe not even then.
>
>
> On 5/9/2013 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
>>
>> Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing
>> garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and
>> the
>> price is a bit high...
>> So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house -
>> alot
>> of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can
>> go
>> about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work
>> space.
>> Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving
>> up
>> about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor
>> lines,
>> heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch.  Security system included,   Private
>> cul
>> de sac in nice area.  I've seen the house and garage with a realtor.
>> One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them
>> especially since I'd barely know them upon move in.  So starting out small
>> might be a good thing.  Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods,
>> so
>> the neighbors can't be all that surprised.  hehe.
>> So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what
>> or
>> how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things
>> are
>> guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements,
>> and
>> what kinds of issues do you run into?
>> The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the
>> way.. :-)   The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already,
>> so at
>> least we'd have a place for other stuff.
>> BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who
>> rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought
>> it.
>\
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 09:40:51 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:33:13 GMT
To: pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I am a landlord, but not just garage space.As has already been mentioned, I
think the critical issue will be insurance - specifically liability.
Interesting concept though.  Finding the right person will make or break the
endeavor.Just to bound the downside - go rent Pacific Heights then add power
tools! The rental agreement would take some effort - shared is trickier than
exclusive.Everyone has to secure their own stuff?...How do you feel about
sharing tools?Could your renter conduct "for profit" work there?Can he or she
come and go at any time? Perhaps the best option would be a friend that wanted
to keep a car there, but even then I would still have a written agreement.
many issues... I would say buy it if you like it and can get a fair price, but
don't consider rental income unless you are prepared to rent out the entire
shop. In a perfect world, the 2 car attached would be enough for you and your
renter was Mr. Goodwrench and you could negotiate a preferred rate and he
would do all of your wrenching for you in the shop he was renting for big $$.
Good Luck!  Keep us apprised.
Matt


---------- Original Message ----------
From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:22:30 -0400

Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing
garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the
price is a bit high...
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 09:50:59 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:33:24 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/09/2013 11:33:28, Serialize complete at
	05/09/2013 11:33:28
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
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PJ, I let me throw in my findings on renting space.

First, INSURANCE!!!!  Make sure you can get the appropriate coverage.  Not 
just for the contents, but for a person on your property that injures 
themselves.  If you are renting 'off the books' your policy might deny any 
payout in the event of a claim leaving you PERSONALLY on the hook.

You will also need to check your zoning.  This isn't a problem in most 
places, but in the areas it is an issue, you can most likely forget about 
doing it.

Next, if you do this, make sure you have a iron clad contract on what 
happens to the contents if the unit is unpaid.  It would be very easy for 
someone to stop paying, and you are stuck trying to legally get rid of the 
contents.  Or worst yet, you get rid of them, and he sues you because you 
didn't do it 100% legally.

Finally, it really is hard to make that much money renting out spaces. 
Here, in NJ, a top dollar storage unit that can hold a car is about $100 a 
month in a REAL facility with 24 hours electronic access, fully insured, 
etc.  I'm not sure if you can make it worth it for all the headaches and 
hassles and liabilities you are exposed to.

When I do 'storage', its mostly motorcycles for the winter months.  I'm 
paid in fully when I pick them up from the person (then I take photos 
before I load them).  Then I just drop them off at a predetermined date.
Or I store boats, trailers, rvs for people I know.

Again, I hate to say it, but insurance makes most great business 
opportunities unprofitable.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 09:51:18 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:33:24 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/09/2013 11:33:28, Serialize complete at
	05/09/2013 11:33:28
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
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Scott writes....

>Man, there is NO way I'm letting you keep your car in my garage, whether 
>you pay me for that or not.
>At least not without enough insurance to ballast a small aircraft 
>carrier. And maybe not even then.

PJ, this reminds me of one other thing to consider.  Years ago, a barn 
that was housing over 30 classic cars caught fire.  They all burned to the 
ground.  Cause of the fire was one owner's carelessness.  As a result, all 
the vehicles (some VERY HIGH END) were lost and most insurance policies 
didn't pay because they weren't stored 'properly.'

That means, you have one renter's car catch fire, and everything could be 
lost, his unit, the other renters, AND YOUR STUFF.  (and I hope the garage 
isn't attached to the house.)

FWIW


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:58:08 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing
> garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the
> price is a bit high...


Others have pointed out all the traps to which you expose yourself if
you rent out the space.  Better to offer what you think is a fair
price that you can afford, then afterwards you can invite people you
trust to cooperate in some sort of friend-to-friend deal.  But i
wouldn't go commercial, without commercial insurance and commercial
rates.  And at least where I live, you can't do that in a residential
area.  All it  takes is one nosy neighbor who doesn't like what's
going on, and you're in over your head with no rental income.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 09:55:28 -0700
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 5/9/2013 7:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:

> So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot
> of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go
> about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work
> space.


In today's litigious society, the only way I would do this is to form an 
LLC or S-corp and have that entity run the rental business, and possibly 
own/lease the property. I would for sure consult with an attorney 
beforehand. If someone gets hurt on your property, you can lose it just 
in lawyer fees alone from a lawsuit.

jim
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 17:19:47 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina
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 http://columbusga.craigslist.org/ctd/3784519887.html I bet it was built in a
shop....
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:23:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
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On Thu, 9 May 2013, Matt wrote:
> http://columbusga.craigslist.org/ctd/3784519887.html I bet it was built in a
> shop....

    Would it not actually be a Luminadillac?

--
  David Hillman
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:41:12 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina
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*Crazy Bob's Body Shop????*

On 9 May 2013 12:19, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:

>   *I bet it was built in a
> shop*....
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 13:16:49 2013
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:14:17 -0400
References: <COL127-W425F239163CBFE706E2F139AA40@phx.gbl>,
	<518BD500.3080504@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
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Some good ideas in there, thanks.  Obviously liability is a big issue, and
even if covered it's one that could easily outweigh the income earned.  Not to
mention the pain in the ass renter you may end up with.
One thing I learned from renting a house, was that it might be a good idea to
check first to see if the renter has a Daddy who is a lawyer.. BIG no no.
Escort them out immediately.   They will pull that card whenever possible.

Makes we wonder what kind of *standard* home insurance policy this building
would carry anyway...
Darn expensive hobbies.

-PJ
> Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:55:28 -0700
> From: jamesf@groupwbench.org
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space

> In today's litigious society, the only way I would do this is to form an
> LLC or S-corp and have that entity run the rental business, and possibly
> own/lease the property. I would for sure consult with an attorney
> beforehand. If someone gets hurt on your property, you can lose it just
> in lawyer fees alone from a lawsuit.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 16:50:20 2013
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 15:46:25 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
References: <COL127-W425F239163CBFE706E2F139AA40@phx.gbl>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
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Talk to your insurance company and if you are in a city of some sort, 
also talk to them.  My city does not allow rental of any part of your 
property in the residential area (other than the full property).  It is 
zoned for single family.  This is mainly to stop illegal second units, 
but also goes to people renting out RV parking on their property.

Brian

On 5/9/2013 7:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
> Toying with the idea of *considering* bidding on a house with an amazing
> garage... rest of the house is great too, just has some other issues and the
> price is a bit high...
> So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot
> of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go
> about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work
> space.
> Garage:Detached, 1300 sq. ft. - will fit 7 cars, I would consider giving up
> about 4 cars worth.10 years old, has plenty of power, air compressor lines,
> heat/AC, lighting ... all top notch.  Security system included,   Private cul
> de sac in nice area.  I've seen the house and garage with a realtor.
> One of my main concerns would be the neighbors, and not annoying them
> especially since I'd barely know them upon move in.  So starting out small
> might be a good thing.  Current owner is a big car guy, lots of hot rods, so
> the neighbors can't be all that surprised.  hehe.
> So I'm wondering for those who are garage space renters or rentees, what or
> how you charge, what you are getting/including, and what kinds of things are
> guys looking for in rental space, do you sign any "gentlemens" agreements, and
> what kinds of issues do you run into?
> The wife is all for the garage and how we can u$e it, so THAT'S out of the
> way.. :-)   The attached 2 car garage would be a step up for me already, so at
> least we'd have a place for other stuff.
> BTW, my current house was previously owned by a 70 year old widower, who
> rented the 2 car garage to a Viper and built drag Mustang when I bought it.
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 17:50:42 -0500
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W425F239163CBFE706E2F139AA40@phx.gbl>,
	<518BD500.3080504@groupwbench.org>
	<COL127-W315FACAA676A17DDDB22189AA40@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't rent it to a car guy, rent it to a glass artist, or a painter, or 
as a yoga studio, or even as rehearsal space...  Far fewer risks and 
potential for conflicts that way.

I have learned never to rent to another artist in the same medium...

On 5/9/2013 2:14 PM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
> Some good ideas in there, thanks.  Obviously liability is a big issue, and
> even if covered it's one that could easily outweigh the income earned.  Not to
> mention the pain in the ass renter you may end up with.
> One thing I learned from renting a house, was that it might be a good idea to
> check first to see if the renter has a Daddy who is a lawyer.. BIG no no.
> Escort them out immediately.   They will pull that card whenever possible.
>
> Makes we wonder what kind of *standard* home insurance policy this building
> would carry anyway...
> Darn expensive hobbies.
>
> -PJ
>> Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:55:28 -0700
>> From: jamesf@groupwbench.org
>> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
>> In today's litigious society, the only way I would do this is to form an
>> LLC or S-corp and have that entity run the rental business, and possibly
>> own/lease the property. I would for sure consult with an attorney
>> beforehand. If someone gets hurt on your property, you can lose it just
>> in lawyer fees alone from a lawsuit.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shochschild@att.net
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:11:50 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Renting garage space
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On 5/9/2013 10:22 AM, PJ McGarvey wrote:
> So to explore way how I might be able to recoup the price of said house - alot
> of which I think I think are b/c of this garage - I'm wondering how I can go
> about maybe renting space whether it be just storage or possibly also work

Wow, I would NOT even go there. Maybe if it was rented to a friend, 
*JUST* for storage. Letting a stranger share space can turn into a 
nightmare quickly.

My Dad & I built a 3 car garage / shop behind our urban house in the 
early 70s when I was a wee one. 'Rents got divorced and by the 80s; Mom 
was single in the house and renting the garage for spare $$$.

First renter was some kid (relatively - well probably in his 20s) that 
did all the obnoxious stuff kidz that age do (crap! have I gotten that 
old?! Only going on 47!) Drink and smoke heavily & party w friends at 
the garage, make lots of noise, rev engines, have half a dozen friends' 
cars parked in the alley to the garage, etc. Then he just quit paying 
rent or showing up for several months. Then had the gall to be PISSED I 
took the liberty of using MY garage *I* built that he hadn't paid rent 
on to swap my Toyota's clutch.

2nd guy was an older motor head. Messed with all the wiring and disabled 
our ability to switch on the back yard or alley lights from in the 
house, oil stained the !@#$ out of the floor, changed the locks without 
permission, dented up the sheetrock, and refused us access (if you think 
I can't pick or bump a lock in seconds, you just lost that bet!) and was 
suspected of using the natural gas furnace out there at our expense, 
even though the lease stated he wasn't allowed to use it. He also kinda 
moved out "in the middle of the night" but at least mailed us rent owed.

I think Matt put it pretty well. With liability & fire issues, 
inappropriate use of your stuff, damage to the structure, potential to 
piss off neighbors you may have to spend years living with, NO WAY IN HELL.

-Wayne
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] CadiLumina
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 5/9/2013 1:19 PM, Matt wrote:
>   http://columbusga.craigslist.org/ctd/3784519887.html I bet it was built in a
> shop....

Wow! Atrocious, but I gotta give it to him for creativity!

-w
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From: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 11:15:34 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	with any abuse report
	bob@texmog.com
Subject: [Shop-talk] Car audio
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Several years ago I spent time and effort to get audio in my LBC  that was
listenable with the top down. Recently I realized that the sound quality had
deteriorated at the upper volume levels needed for top down listening.
I figured I had blown out the speakers so replaced two of the four and found
no difference.
Can modern car radios go bad in a manner that the quality of the sound
deteriorates at high volume as a bad speaker or did I just buy some bad
speakers?
Any way to check the radio?

Bob
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 11 10:40:31 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Bob Nogueira" <Bob@texmog.com>, "Shop Talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <342484BA-3C66-4C57-B661-F6BA34D0EECE@texmog.com>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 11:38:47 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Car audio
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have experienced that exact phenomenon ... audio quality going down.

A hearing test finally located the components that were deteriorating with 
age.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Nogueira
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 11:15 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Car audio

Several years ago I spent time and effort to get audio in my LBC  that was
listenable with the top down. Recently I realized that the sound quality had
deteriorated at the upper volume levels needed for top down listening.
I figured I had blown out the speakers so replaced two of the four and found
no difference.
Can modern car radios go bad in a manner that the quality of the sound
deteriorates at high volume as a bad speaker or did I just buy some bad
speakers?
Any way to check the radio?

Bob
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 11 10:52:50 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:50:18 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5OYvtJR66bqxRMQqO9/JAqWeuVdgAA1MGw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Car audio
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> Can modern car radios go bad in a manner that the quality of 
> the sound deteriorates at high volume 

Certainly possible.  But one of the first things I would check is that the
amplifier is getting a good solid 12v even at high power output.

For me, there would also be a distinct possibility that I'm trying to listen
at a higher volume than before.  With the setup I had in my TR3A, there was
a fairly fine line between "couldn't hear" and distortion.  And I know my
hearing has fallen off even further since then.

Unfortunately, it's quite possible that your new speakers can't handle the
power, as well.

For testing, all I can suggest is swapping with known good components,
unless you have access to a oscilloscope.  I've got an older HP scope that I
picked up on eBay for $30.  Only good to 20 MHz, but that's plenty for
working on audio.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 11 19:38:46 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:36:08 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5OsRNuH1+7S/izQ+aHsUCfQzSL+Q==
Subject: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Ok, I'm stuck.  Got a big GM limited slip solid axle with the half shafts
located by those stupid C-clips.  I've got the locating bolt and the cross
pin out.  But I cannot get the shaft to move, to get clearance to remove the
clip!  The wheel bearing is shot, so it might be the bearing keeping it from
moving, but I can wiggle the bearing end up and down while pushing on it,
and nothing seems to bind.  When I beat on it with a BFH, the axle actually
rings (!) making me think it must be free all the way to the gear.  I also
tried spinning it up to about 70 mph and pushing on the axle with it still
spinning, thinking that might shake loose whatever is blocking, but it made
no difference.
 
Axle is still in the car, and I'd really like to avoid removing it if
possible.  But that bearing and shaft have got to be changed.  I already did
the other side (couple years ago), and the axle slid in (and out) easily.
 
Any thoughts??
 
Oh yeah, 95 Buick Roadmaster Estate wagon if that make any difference.
-- Randall 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 11 20:12:28 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 19:09:54 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5OsRNuH1+7S/izQ+aHsUCfQzSL+QABBgeQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In the infamous words of Emily Litella, "Never mind!"

Turns out, the LSD clutches were slightly out of place (probably caused by
yours truly initially trying to remove them) and blocking the motion of the
C-clip.  A stout brass drift and BFH moved them back and it all came right
apart.

Now all I've got to do is get that $@# race out of the housing.  Last time I
wound up cutting it apart to get it out, but this one maybe isn't as bad.

Nah, I couldn't get that lucky!

-- Randall 
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:16:30 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <09.D0.02984.8E9FE815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Cc: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Sometimes you can weld a bead along the inside of the race and when it 
shrinks it'll shrink the race a little, enough to get it out.  Or you 
can weld a piece of steel across the race and use that to grab on to 
pull it out.



On 5/11/2013 7:09 PM, Randall wrote:
> In the infamous words of Emily Litella, "Never mind!"
>
> Turns out, the LSD clutches were slightly out of place (probably caused by
> yours truly initially trying to remove them) and blocking the motion of the
> C-clip.  A stout brass drift and BFH moved them back and it all came right
> apart.
>
> Now all I've got to do is get that $@# race out of the housing.  Last time I
> wound up cutting it apart to get it out, but this one maybe isn't as bad.
>
> Nah, I couldn't get that lucky!
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:45:33 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5PRTYkTSJPQENwR9qVwIuT09CpEgAG5l6g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] GM rear axle C-clip removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Sometimes you can weld a bead along the inside of the race 
> and when it shrinks it'll shrink the race a little, enough to 
> get it out.  Or you can weld a piece of steel across the race 
> and use that to grab on to pull it out.

Thanks for the suggestions.  My problem wasn't so much grabbing the race, as
persuading it to move afterwards.  The failing bearing evidently got hot
enough to spot-weld the race to the housing.

But after slicing with the Dremel, I was able to break and collapse the
race.  Since I haven't got 220v run to the garage yet, it was definitely
faster than breaking out the welder ... Not to mention less chance of
setting things on fire <g>
(I'm kind of a klutz at welding)

Randall
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:07:23 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] dead  battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't
been run in a long time.  It is also dry, or at least  very low.  So I filled
the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a
bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and
plugged it in.  Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out.  Suggestions?
There is no adjustment on the charger, just plugged in or not.

Mike
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:31:13 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dead  battery
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On 5/14/2013 7:07 PM, Mike wrote:
> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't
> been run in a long time.  It is also dry, or at least  very low.  So I filled
> the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a
> bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and
> plugged it in.  Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out.  Suggestions?

Has it been in sub-freezing temps? As they discharge, their freeze temp 
rises, and a dead one will freeze, expand, and short the plates 
together. A lot of times the plastic housing may be bulged out from the 
expansion, making it obvious.

-Wayne
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:45:03 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  dead  battery
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No.  The case looks ok.  In fact, it was fairly new when it was last used.
==============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Wayne" <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
> To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 4:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dead battery
>
>
>> On 5/14/2013 7:07 PM, Mike wrote:
>>> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car 
>>> hasn't
>>> been run in a long time.  It is also dry, or at least  very low.  So I 
>>> filled
>>> the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead 
>>> to a
>>> bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, 
>>> and
>>> plugged it in.  Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out. 
>>> Suggestions?
>>
>> Has it been in sub-freezing temps? As they discharge, their freeze temp 
>> rises, and a dead one will freeze, expand, and short the plates together. 
>> A lot of times the plastic housing may be bulged out from the expansion, 
>> making it obvious.
>>
>> -Wayne
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 17:36:16 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
References: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dead  battery
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Mike - If there is any chance it is under warranty, take it back to the 
battery place to see if they can charge it with their charger. I would 
suspect they would rather help restore the battery instead of doing a 
warranty replacement. I had a Sears Die Hard that was dead to me, but 
spent an hour on their fancy changer and worked for several more years. 
The battery came with my Triumph GT6, so I had no receipt, but they were 
helpful and friendly.

They can also diagnose internal problems. Some auto parts stores will 
also do a free battery test, so that may be an option as well.

I've had similar behavior with my charger oscillating between max and 
zero, but I have a 2A and 12A switch. I set it to 2A for a minute then 
can switch it to 12A for a few hours to charge low batteries.

Also, make sure everything is off on the car. For example, if the 
headlights are on, as soon as you turn on the charger, they are going to 
draw all the power.

Brian

On 5/14/2013 4:07 PM, Mike wrote:
> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't
> been run in a long time.  It is also dry, or at least  very low.  So I filled
> the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a
> bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and
> plugged it in.  Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out.  Suggestions?
> There is no adjustment on the charger, just plugged in or not.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 0:57:17 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dead  battery
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---- Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote: 
> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't
> been run in a long time.  It is also dry, or at least  very low.  So I filled
> the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a
> bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and
> plugged it in.  Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out.  Suggestions?

I would try temporarily connecting it to the charger through an old headlight bulb.  The bulb will probably light at first, but should go out with a few hours of charging.  If it doesn't, the battery is toast.  If it does, then connect the charger as usual.

But my guess is that you might as well just haul the battery in to exchange for a new one.

Randall
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From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
References: <2B5D5C3C7B7348308FCA2536BE93F932@Mike>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dead  battery
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Mike wrote:
> I have a 12v car battery that is dead as a doornail because the car hasn't
> been run in a long time.  It is also dry, or at least  very low.  So I filled
> the cells with distilled water, and hooked up the leads (the ground lead to a
> bolt on the engine), checked the charger to be sure it was set to 12v, and
> plugged it in.  Ammeter goes to max, and the charger trips out.  Suggestions?
> There is no adjustment on the charger, just plugged in or not.

Mike,

You might try seeding the battery cells with electrolyte taken from 
another good battery. If the battery was dry then a fill of distilled 
water would make the charger unable to function, some acidity is needed 
for the reaction to take place. I am no electrical engineer but that has 
helped in the past. Once the battery has taken charge a pulse charger 
may help to restore its condition.

As Randall says you should be prepared to get a new one. It's debatable 
how much messing is worthwhile with a sick battery. These things always 
fail when they are most needed.

You might check the charging rate of the car. A battery doesn't usually 
dry out of its own accord when left unused, although if you're from 
Phoenix temperature may come into play.

Nick Brearley
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 16:19:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Can someone please tell me what cars commonly ran these carbs?

I need to find detailed pictures of the linkage set up that uses the 
long bar across the top.

Shop content....I am installin a set of these carbs on my Roadster in my 
shop.

Thanks
tim
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 19 14:49:02 2013
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References: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net>
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 16:45:27 -0400
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
	FILETIME=[D09E0CC0:01CE54D1]
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs
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Rootes put DCOE 40's on a UK version of the fastback Sunbeam Alpine/Rapier in
the early 70's. you could probably find some photos by Googling "Sunbeam H120"
which was the Holbay engine designation. I know they were also used on Alfas
of the same vintage. That was probably much more widely available. I had them
on my Alpine for a while and loved them, but I never got them properly
synchronized or jetted and gave up after about 6 months. I later realized that
my manifold was defective and will one day try again. They were a blast!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 19, 2013, at 4:20 PM, "Tim" <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> Can someone please tell me what cars commonly ran these carbs?
>
> I need to find detailed pictures of the linkage set up that uses the
> long bar across the top.
>
> Shop content....I am installin a set of these carbs on my Roadster in my
> shop.
>
> Thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 15:01:40 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <141ae948.7ed110.13ebe727d8a.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Lotus used Webers or the very similar Dellorto carbs on many of their cars,
such as the Elan.

mjb.
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	<51993DB4.9030009@bradakis.com>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 20:58:21 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dual side draft weber carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Check out Pierce Manifolds (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/) for pretty
much anything Weber related.


On Sun, May 19, 2013 at 4:01 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Lotus used Webers or the very similar Dellorto carbs on many of their cars,
> such as the Elan.
>
> mjb.
>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 06:34:54 -0400
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?
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Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push
mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel
key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the
engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each
revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed.

It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new
blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has
some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360
degrees smoothly without the blade?

Ideas?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 07:45:44 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?
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On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 6:34 AM, Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net> wrote:
> shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360
> degrees smoothly without the blade?


With the plug out, I would think so.  I recall that there's a large
counterweight inside the motor that could have become
dislodged...could be what you're feeling.

It's fun and educational to take one apart, and they are pretty
simple.  You have nothing to lose but an hour or so, and it might be
repairable.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman
> (snip)
> I assume the blade has some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the
> engine manually rotate 360 degrees smoothly without the blade?
>
> Ideas?
>
Depending on how hard those tight spots are, you might only be feeling the
cam lobes against the valve springs.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 08:49:47 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?
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Thusly spake Eric J Russell

Years ago I did the same with a B&S mower. The end of the crank where 
the blade attached had about 1/8" run out, so I figured the engine was 
toast. Just for grins I tried to straighten the crank by using a 
suitable pipe to bend it back onto line. It worked, and I used that 
mower for several years until I moved and didn't take it with me. I know 
it can be unsafe, but it worked and didn't cost anything!

Running the engine without the blade doesn't always work because the 
blade acts as a flywheel. Running without the blade makes the engine 
speed changes faster than the governor can respond. This might be what's 
happening when the engine doesn't rev correctly. You might be able to 
hold the throttle linkage between the governor and the carb so that it 
revs up more.


Peace,
Pat

> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push
> mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel
> key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the
> engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each
> revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed.
>
> It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new
> blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has
> some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360
> degrees smoothly without the blade?
>
> Ideas?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 15:49:08 -0700
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To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?
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Eric - Are you trying to run it without the blade?  If so, that might be 
part of the problem.  Check the blade for balance on a nail and it it is 
close, get a new shear key and put it back together to see how it runs.  
If the blade is badly bent, don't cut anything. If it runs normal, go 
for the new blade.  If it is bad, you can play with it in the shop or 
move on to a new mower and just be out the cost of the shear key.

I hit a small stump in leaves decades ago and broke the shear key. I 
replaced it and sharpened/balanced the blade and used the mower for a 
bunch of years.

Also check the bolts mounting the engine to the deck, but if the shear 
key worked, everything above it should be fine.

Brian


On 5/20/2013 3:34 AM, Eric J Russell wrote:
> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push
> mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel
> key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the
> engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each
> revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed.
>
> It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new
> blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has
> some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360
> degrees smoothly without the blade?
>
> Ideas?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?
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> Hit a large rock the lawn mower.

Thanks for the many replies.

To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out when I 
turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the valve springs. 
It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or at least a roughly 
straightened/balanced old blade and see how it runs. The key in the blade 
adapter is (was) integral to the part. It is an aluminum part with the 'key' 
punched in from the side. I might try just bolting it together (without a 
functioning key) to see if it runs better with the blade.

I saw this on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjSZu2hlmsk I do have 
an assortment of hammers...

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
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Sorry for the late reply.

I made a "ditch mower" to run on an outrigger bolted to my tractor 
bucket.  It was essentially just a mower deck and motor bolted to a long 
arm.  I used it a couple of summers then hit a big rock.  I was able to 
straighten everything out and get it to run again but the crank runout 
and vibration wallowed out the main seal in pretty short order and all 
the oil ran out.  That pretty much killed it for good.

I'm going to make another one  some day, and  use heavy duty nylon 
strings or rods instead of a solid blade, like a ho-made DR Mower. I may 
even just buy a DR Mower head and work back from there.


On 5/20/2013 6:42 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:
>> Hit a large rock the lawn mower.
>
> Thanks for the many replies.
>
> To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out 
> when I turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the 
> valve springs. It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or 
> at least a roughly straightened/balanced old blade and see how it 
> runs. The key in the blade adapter is (was) integral to the part. It 
> is an aluminum part with the 'key' punched in from the side. I might 
> try just bolting it together (without a functioning key) to see if it 
> runs better with the blade.
>
> I saw this on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjSZu2hlmsk I 
> do have an assortment of hammers...
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Door Screen
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hey Guys -- have a slightly weird question. Does anyone know of a screen 
or similar cover for an overhead garage door?

I like leaving my door up during the day, just for ventilation and heat. 
It's a basement, partially sub-grade, style and gets damp and chilly 
otherwise. If I'm working, the outside light, fresh air, spaciousness, 
etc are nice.

But, birds flying in and crapping or nesting on stuff, bugs, other 
pests, etc, make it impractical. Just like an un-screened open window in 
the house would. Anyone know of commercial products like an overhead 
pull-down screening system or something?

-Thanks, Wayne
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 05:56:29 -0700
References: <519B69FA.4060901@xxiii.com>
To: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Door Screen
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Lots of hits googling "garage door screen", including Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/double-garage-door-screen-68310.html

-Darrell
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 21 08:45:42 2013
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From: Texmog <bob@texmog.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:41:47 -0500
To: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
	with any abuse report
	acl_c_relayhosts_text_entry: bob@texmog.com|texmog.com
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Door Screen
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I have the one from HF.  Basically cloth screen hooks to header and Velcro to
the sides with weight on base.   Works well but I only use it a a few weeks a
year between heating and a/c seasons.

I would not expect it to last much more than a year if used daily.

Bob


On May 21, 2013, at 7:35 AM, Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com> wrote:

> Hey Guys -- have a slightly weird question. Does anyone know of a screen or
similar cover for an overhead garage door?
>
> I like leaving my door up during the day, just for ventilation and heat.
It's a basement, partially sub-grade, style and gets damp and chilly
otherwise. If I'm working, the outside light, fresh air, spaciousness, etc are
nice.
>
> But, birds flying in and crapping or nesting on stuff, bugs, other pests,
etc, make it impractical. Just like an un-screened open window in the house
would. Anyone know of commercial products like an overhead pull-down screening
system or something?
>
> -Thanks, Wayne
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:30:02 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer...  I find
the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks for a
swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a
swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for copper
welding cable connectors ???  homebrew ways to do this and have it hold ????

tia
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
_______________________________________________

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: <trevor@boicey.com>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406>
	<519D2139.5060609@brit.ca>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:14:56 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

good one Tervor.... google says the nearest Chandlery store is 300 miles 
away... I'm in the middle of Alabama :-)   guess I could try boat yards 
around town...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <trevor@boicey.com>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)


> On 22/05/2013 2:30 PM, John Niolon wrote:
>> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer...  I 
>> find
>> the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks 
>> for a
>> swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a
>> swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for 
>> copper
>> welding cable connectors ???  homebrew ways to do this and have it hold 
>> ????
>>
>>
>   These are problems sailors deal with all the time, find a chandlery 
> store.
>
>   (although $40 in a boat store is like the door fee)
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 14:27:33 2013
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	<519D2139.5060609@brit.ca>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
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On 5/22/2013 1:14 PM, John Niolon wrote:
> good one Tervor.... google says the nearest Chandlery store is 300 miles
> away... I'm in the middle of Alabama :-)   guess I could try boat yards
> around town...

The cheap swaging tools are a couple pieces of steel bar with half a 
hole in each one where they mate and a couple bolts to pull them 
together.  I had one and made more use of it than I expected, until the 
bolts stripped, and after I replaced the bolts the holes eventually 
stripped out too...

Now I've got one of these and while the AWG gauge sizes on the dies are 
a joke it does work well if you eyeball the dies you need instead, and 
it'll crimp 6AWG and larger wire terminals/battery cables quite nicely 
as well as swaging wire-rope type sleeves.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 14:31:09 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
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> Now I've got one of these

Oops, missed the link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

John.
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:52:38 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "John Miller" <jem@milleredp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)


> That's what I"m trying to avoid.... spending extra bucks on a tool I'll 
> never use again (probably)
>
> I have one of these
>
> http://compare.ebay.com/like/190804636162?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
> for welding cables
> I wonder how it would work on those Alum crimp type  or oval compression 
> sleeves... ???
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Miller" <jem@milleredp.com>
> To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
>
>
>>> Now I've got one of these
>>
>> Oops, missed the link:
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
>>
>> John.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
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From: "Mark" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>, "shop-talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <4286F50965754810BD4F5ECB7E420C21@john5043a2d406>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:16:47 -0500
	a=L9Rx7paY6XsA:10 a=zZKT3jqqOw0A:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=V6f-GIhDAAAA:8
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw:  connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What about wire clips? 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#saddle-clips/=mv63h8
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 18:33:54 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC>
	<DC720AC5A1FE4C66AEF1B968F73A999A@EricJRussellPC>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:29:06 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] BFH ! (was: Rock 1, Mower 0 ?)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

For $20 I bought a new blade adapter & blade. Before installing them I 
propped the mower up on its side and used the Redneck Dial Indicator (tm) to 
check for run out of the crankshaft under the mower's deck. (I clamped a 
scrap piece of wood across the bottom of the mower and a second cut off 
aimed at the crankshaft's end.) With the spark plug removed & turning the 
engine by hand I could see the shaft wobble by ~ 1/8".

I next tried a length of pipe as a lever to try to move it back into 
place.My pipe was only about 18" long and didn't give much leverage.

Figuring I had little to lose, I marked the wobble with some chalk and 
positioned the shaft so I could whack it with a BFH. A few moderate whacks 
didn't do anything. A more forceful whack did the deed! No more wobble and I 
noticed the engine seemed to turn easier. (I do think the resistance I do 
feel is the camshaft operating the valves.)

I then installed the new blade adapter & blade and started it up. It ran 
fine, no smoke, no vibrations or bad noises. When I shut it off it coasted 
to a stop like usual - vs the sudden stop when I ran it a few days ago 
without a blade attached.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; "shop-talk" 
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?


>> Hit a large rock the lawn mower.
>
> Thanks for the many replies.
>
> To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out when I 
> turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the valve 
> springs. It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or at least a 
> roughly straightened/balanced old blade and see how it runs. The key in 
> the blade adapter is (was) integral to the part. It is an aluminum part 
> with the 'key' punched in from the side. I might try just bolting it 
> together (without a functioning key) to see if it runs better with the 
> blade.
>
> I saw this on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjSZu2hlmsk I do 
> have an assortment of hammers...
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 19:15:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:09:31 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Search for "wire rope clip" at Home Depot or Lowes for a u-bolt type 
clamp.   In one application, I cut the bolts then wrapped it a bunch in 
electrical tape so it wouldn't scratch me.

I also used some 1/8" cable to make a lock for my kayak on the roof rack 
and just used a 3lb sledge hammer on the sidewalk.  That one I covered 
in heat shrink tubing.

Brian


On 5/22/2013 11:30 AM, John Niolon wrote:
> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer...  I find
> the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks for a
> swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a
> swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for copper
> welding cable connectors ???  homebrew ways to do this and have it hold ????
>
> tia
> John
>
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 19:20:49 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406>
	<519D6C4B.4090806@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 21:16:49 -0400
	a=zRhTugyO4uMA:10 a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10
	a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:17 a=OzV-MIx6hzn3UZnLT8kA:9
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	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I see lots of places that advertise custom-made hydraulic hoses. Would they 
have the equipment to swage the wire cable?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
>
> On 5/22/2013 11:30 AM, John Niolon wrote:
>> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a trailer...  I 
>> find
>> the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but have to pay 20-40 bucks 
>> for a
>> swaging tool I'll probably only use once or twice... does anyone make a
>> swage'er that will work on a vise or something like the crimper for 
>> copper
>> welding cable connectors ???  homebrew ways to do this and have it hold 
>> ????
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Eric J Russell'" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>, "'shop-talk'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <57F633545D79471898184EA209F7CED8@john5043a2d406>
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] connectors on SS cable (swaging)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Try the shop at a small airport - they swage cables all the time.


> On 5/22/2013 11:30 AM, John Niolon wrote:
>> I'd like to use some SS cable to secure some equipment on a 
>> trailer...  I find the cable and the connectors at Lowes, etc but 
>> have to pay 20-40 bucks for a swaging tool I'll probably only use 
>> once or twice... does anyone make a swage'er that will work on a vise 
>> or something like the crimper for copper welding cable connectors ???  
>> homebrew ways to do this and have it hold ????
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 07:57:15 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:49:03 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge
protection.  Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility
sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the
meter base.  They charge $6.50 a month for this service.  As I
understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any
damage due to surges with this service.

I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for
around $200.  The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to
a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc

In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground.  In 17 years,
I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house
device, despite some really exciting electrical storms.  All of my
electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems
with them or the larger things so far.

Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of thing?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:01:40 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I had one on a house (builder installed) and I don't believe it ever did
anything in the five years we lived there.  I don't think I would get one
in your situation.  As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off of
the street and not if your house is hit.  The house we live in now has
above ground lines on the street and to the house.  I probably would get
one if we weren't planning to move soon.


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>wrote:

> A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge
> protection.  Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility
> sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the
> meter base.  They charge $6.50 a month for this service.  As I
> understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any
> damage due to surges with this service.
>
> I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for
> around $200.  The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to
> a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment.
>
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc
>
> In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground.  In 17 years,
> I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house
> device, despite some really exciting electrical storms.  All of my
> electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems
> with them or the larger things so far.
>
> Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of
> thing?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:19:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

" As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off of the street and 
not if your house is hit. "

I was under the impression (from what I've seen on TV and also read) 
that the whole-house protectors that are wired into your breaker box are 
meant to protect your electical wiring from lightning strikes.

Is this not true?

electrically challenged
tim


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Ian McFetridge wrote:

> I had one on a house (builder installed) and I don't believe it ever 
> did
> anything in the five years we lived there.  I don't think I would get 
> one
> in your situation.  As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming 
> off of
> the street and not if your house is hit.  The house we live in now has
> above ground lines on the street and to the house.  I probably would 
> get
> one if we weren't planning to move soon.
>
>
> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough 
> <fishplate@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge
>> protection.  Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility
>> sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the
>> meter base.  They charge $6.50 a month for this service.  As I
>> understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any
>> damage due to surges with this service.
>>
>> I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for
>> around $200.  The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to
>> a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment.
>>
>>
>> 
>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc
>>
>> In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground.  In 17 years,
>> I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house
>> device, despite some really exciting electrical storms.  All of my
>> electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no 
>> problems
>> with them or the larger things so far.
>>
>> Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of
>> thing?
>>
>> Jeff Scarbrough
>> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 08:35:46 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:32:10 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe it depends how it is installed.  Ours was on the main line coming
from the street (essentially like the main on/off breaker).  My thought was
that if lightning hits my attic fan, goes down those wires to the panel, it
will electrify every circuit on that bank.  I think you would need to have
it somehow filtering every circuit to truly protect from lightning going
from one circuit to the other--ours did not do this.  By design, I think
the SS only protected against lighting spikes coming in from the street
(e.g., transformer or neighbor, etc.) or entering through the meter on the
side of the house.
Caveat: I'm not an electrician either.


On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 10:19 AM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> " As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off of the street and
> not if your house is hit. "
>
> I was under the impression (from what I've seen on TV and also read) that
> the whole-house protectors that are wired into your breaker box are meant
> to protect your electical wiring from lightning strikes.
>
> Is this not true?
>
> electrically challenged
> tim
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Ian McFetridge wrote:
>
>  I had one on a house (builder installed) and I don't believe it ever did
>> anything in the five years we lived there.  I don't think I would get one
>> in your situation.  As I recall, it only protects from spikes coming off
>> of
>> the street and not if your house is hit.  The house we live in now has
>> above ground lines on the street and to the house.  I probably would get
>> one if we weren't planning to move soon.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com
>> >wrote:
>>
>>  A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge
>>> protection.  Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility
>>> sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the
>>> meter base.  They charge $6.50 a month for this service.  As I
>>> understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any
>>> damage due to surges with this service.
>>>
>>> I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for
>>> around $200.  The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to
>>> a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/**Square-D-by-Schneider-**
>>> Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-**Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-**
>>> Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/**100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc>
>>>
>>> In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground.  In 17 years,
>>> I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house
>>> device, despite some really exciting electrical storms.  All of my
>>> electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems
>>> with them or the larger things so far.
>>>
>>> Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of
>>> thing?
>>>
>>> Jeff Scarbrough
>>> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:47:14 -0400
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 09:49 AM 5/23/2013, you wrote:

 >A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge 
protection......

 >I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for 
around $200....

 >http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc

 >In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground.  In 17 
years, I've not
 >experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house device, despite
 >some really exciting electrical storms.  All of my electronics are 
plugged into
 >normal surge suppressors, but no problems with them or the larger 
things so far.

 >Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of thing?

Jeff,

Like you said, "you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any 
damage due to
surges with this service".  So how luck do you feel.

In my neighborhood, our utilities are also run under ground and we 
don't seem to
have the problems with loosing power that the areas with above ground utilities
do.

That being said, during where does the lightening go?  2 places cloud 
to cloud and
cloud to ground.  It's that ground problem that causes problems.  If you take a
strike close enough to an underground wire, it will induce some of 
it's energy into
the wire and you will have a surge.  In the 30 yrs that I've lived in 
this house,
we had only taken 2 lightening strike close enough to cause any 
damage.  The first
one was picked up by the underground power line.  We lost a couple of clock
radios, a cordless telephone base and some other inexpensive items.  However,
some of my neighbors were not that lucky. They lost TV, VCRs, etc.  Some had
over a couple thousand dollars of damage.

During another lightening storm, we took a strike to the back 
yard.  But the energy
was picked up by the wires connecting my dvd player to my TV and blew out that
input channel on the TV.  Luckly that was all the damage we received that time.

Oh, and I don't not have any surge supressors.

My dad lives in an that has above ground lines and looses power all 
the time.  In
the 57 yrs he's lived there, he has only had 1 time (after Hurricane 
Isabelle when
he was without power for over 3 weeks) that he's had problems.  When the power
came back on, the surge blew up a TV, radio, messed up his heat/ac 
unit, cordless
phones, and more.

He also doesn't have any surge protectors on anything.

When we get a bad lightening storm, I will unplug a lot of the 
electronics from the
wall, and disconnect various interconnecting cables, and disconnect 
the cable feed
to my modem for the internet.

Again, it's a gamble.  How much are you willing to loose?  To me, 
it's too easy to
disconnect things like my computer and some of my radio equipment and flat
screen TV for 1/2 hr or so untill the storm passes and not worry 
about the surge
protectors.

Also a battery back (ups) for your computer is a good surge protector.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
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To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:13:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5XwS1DXaoZmtnaQCyDlCPyDatBAAADitWw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I was under the impression (from what I've seen on TV and 
> also read) that the whole-house protectors that are wired 
> into your breaker box are meant to protect your electical 
> wiring from lightning strikes.
> 
> Is this not true?

If the lightning strikes your house directly, there isn't much that any
device can do about it.  Your best chance against a direct strike is an
old-fashioned lightning rod (or better yet rods) to keep the lightning
outside the house.

A strike outside the house probably isn't going to damage the wiring itself,
but can induce high voltage spikes that may damage equipment connected to
the wiring.  A good protector on every wire that enters the house (not just
power line but TV cable/antenna, telephone, etc.) can offer some protection
against that.

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 17:38:44 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 15:47:53 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CNCR3GqGd1nipFiuQ1zrLgu2M-N+rPs8inpCdHE885EZw@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Whole-house surge protection
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff - Home Depot also has a smaller, cheaper product from Square D.  See

www.homedepot.com/p/t/203540660?productId=203540660

You add a 220 breaker and connect the device to your circuits.  In 
theory, when there is a spike, they clamp it down.  The good ones have 
an indicator light to say they are still good.

I will be adding one of these products as soon as I add a sub panel to 
make room.  My panel is in the outside wall of the house, typical in 
Southern California, so I am limited to what actually fits inside the 
breaker box.

We've had several power problems due to an old distribution system. I 
lost a computer and UPS in 2010.  I had friends 1/4 mile away loose most 
of their appliances when a transformer presented a light show.

None of these are likely to save you if lightning hits the house, but 
any should provide added protection if a local transformer fails or 
someone drives into one of the ground level electrical distribution 
boxes along the street.

For many of us, our most expensive electrical devices are probably the 
kitchen appliances and entertainment centers.   While you can unplug the 
fridge if a storm is coming, you are not likely to go down and switch 
off the breaker for the hardwired stove/oven.  For a freak event, you 
are not going to be able to take precautions, so a device like these 
should be an extra level of protection.

Brian


On 5/23/2013 6:49 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> A cow-orker with a new house asked me about whole-house surge
> protection.  Where I live, the local member-owned electric utility
> sells protection for large appliances and motors as a device in the
> meter base.  They charge $6.50 a month for this service.  As I
> understand it, you're basically buying insurance, as they repair any
> damage due to surges with this service.
>
> I see you can purchase a similar device at the local big box for
> around $200.  The claim is that it offers surge protection similar to
> a plug-in device, but also covers connected equipment.
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-SurgeBreaker-Plus-Whole-House-Secondary-Surge-Protective-Device-SDSB1175C/100127248#.UZ4bKsqOBhc
>
> In my neighborhood, all the utilities are underground.  In 17 years,
> I've not experienced anything that would require use of a whole-house
> device, despite some really exciting electrical storms.  All of my
> electronics are plugged into normal surge suppressors, but no problems
> with them or the larger things so far.
>
> Any of you guys have any experience or advice concerning this sort of thing?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 07:35:02 2013
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	Sat, 25 May 2013 06:29:44 -0700
From: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 08:29:43 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	with any abuse report
	bob@texmog.com
Subject: [Shop-talk] Auction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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For anyone in the Dallas Fort Worth area,  they are auctioning off a host of
tools and fixtures from the American Airlines Maintenance Center ( which is
being closed) at Alliance airport.  Lots of great tools listed from 6 inch
Beverly Shears to  a DC 10 trunnion pin puller.  Auction is next Friday and
Saturday.

Great chance for you to get a Data Device Corp Mdl SIM-31200 Synchrol/Resolver
Simulator to replace that cheap Harbor Freight Synchrol/Resolve Simulator you
have in you garage :)

See list of. Stuff here :
http://www.starmanauctions.com/Past%20Auction/AMERICAN%20AIRLINES-2013/SALE%2
0BILL.AMERICAN%20AIRLINES%205.31.13.pdf

The tiny URL is.  :   http://tinyurl.com/oejrc9n

Bob Nogueira   ( who has no financial interest in AA, Starman auctions or the
federal bankruptcy court)
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 09:37:59 2013
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 11:30:47 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Auction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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They have "veneer calipers" for sale...

Doug
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 12:31:08 2013
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	<CAOtbU9XpWESVLujNFdboecgMtoj_0DvCmbLxiFwOhOUnZOe+7w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:27:17 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Auction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Sat, May 25, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
> They have "veneer calipers" for sale...

I guess they don't open very wide.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 14:16:48 2013
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Subject: [Shop-talk] A bit behind...
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Finally getting around to sending out some Thank You notes to folks who 
donated
during the Team.Net spring fund drive.  Only about a month and a half 
behind.
I guess it is a good way to spend Decoration Day weekend.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 18:13:24 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:03:48 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Somebody will know......
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Ibm looking to use an inexpensive router and table for
an ongoing project.  I need to burnish leather using a
rotary burnishing tool.  This will look similar to edging
a piece of wood, but instead of removing wood to form
the edge, Ibll be using a turned hardwood piece mounted
on a shaft to then run the leather past the polishing surface.
This will burnish or bslick downb the edge of the thick
(1/4b b 3/8b thick) piece of leather.
Here are my questions:
1.  My burnishing tool is mounted on a 3/8b diameter
shank (most router tools are 1/4b or 1/2b).  Ibm pretty
sure reducing collars are available.
2.  My maximum rotary speed will be in the 1000 to
1100 rpm range.  Much slower than a typical router.

Any suggestions?  Ibve started trolling Craigslist and
eBay, but if there are some specifics models to look
for, it would be helpful.
Thanks.
Steve Hammatt
(Mount Vernon, home of the closed I-5 freeway)
Mount Vernon WA USA
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 18:34:42 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>, "Shop
	Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <88699218FC914B06A43FAFDF39C9AFF6@StevePC>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:25:14 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Somebody will know......
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There are 3/8" collets for woodworking routers but they are not common 
(might be hard to find and might not be cheap).

There are variable speed routers or controllers you'd plug the router in to 
that can vary the speed. But it seems like even a cheap router would be 
over-kill for the task. Why not set up a variable speed drill motor or a 
drill press with a table/guide for the leather?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 8:03 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Somebody will know......


> Ibm looking to use an inexpensive router and table for
> an ongoing project.  I need to burnish leather using a
> rotary burnishing tool.

> Here are my questions:
> 1.  My burnishing tool is mounted on a 3/8b diameter
> shank (most router tools are 1/4b or 1/2b).  Ibm pretty
> sure reducing collars are available.
> 2.  My maximum rotary speed will be in the 1000 to
> 1100 rpm range.  Much slower than a typical router.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 06:00:11 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 07:34:29 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/28/2013 07:34:32, Serialize complete at
	05/28/2013 07:34:32
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
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This weekend, I installed a dishwasher in my shop.  I have a few questions 
for those of you with experience with them...

First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, etc?
Next, is there a soap that I should use that will not hurt the dishwasher?
Finally, are there things that should NOT go in there?

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 07:21:43 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:16:22 GMT
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Inch,What a smart idea.I recall seeing a mechanics show where they put an old
nasty transmission in a big parts washer and thought, "that would be nice to
have"You seem to routinely come up with innovative moves - and around here old
(not pretty but functional) dishwashers are on Craigs every week for next to
nothing. DId the sailboat/ebay play work out OK?Hopefully much easier than
chopping it up and more enviro friendly than burning!Some neighbors had a
similar situation - an original owner boat that the wife had grown up with but
had seen better days and had been a long time on the trailer.IT was a win win,
they got rid of it, got a small amount of $$, and the buyer was happy with his
bargain. The buyer seemed to know what he was doing as he showed up with new
tires and took it straight to a trailer shop for repack & brake check...


AGE RES PROPRIAS TUAS

---------- Original Message ----------
From: eric@megageek.com
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 07:34:29 -0400

This weekend, I installed a dishwasher in my shop.  I have a few questions
for those of you with experience with them...

First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, etc?
Next, is there a soap that I should use that will not hurt the dishwasher?
Finally, are there things that should NOT go in there?

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 09:01:45 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF4EDC3FA1.D9ED9ECD-ON85257B79.003EE4E4-85257B79.0040AE2D@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 10:50:59 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
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> This weekend, I installed a dishwasher in my shop.

Years ago I read that NASA needed a way to clean electronic circuit boards 
and found that ordinary dishwasher powders in a household dishwasher was the 
most effective and efficient.

I doubt there are any engine parts that would be harmed by a dishwasher & 
soap. Ferrous metals will rust if not quickly dried & painted of course. 
Also be aware that most dishwashers have a heating element under the bottom 
rack. Don't let plastic parts come in contact with the heating element as 
they would likely melt.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:00:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: eric@megageek.com
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals,

When I was rehabbing ("restoring" would be an insult to actual restorers everywhere) the Europa, I put suspension parts in a leaky dishwasher I had parked over the basement floor-drain.  The parts would flash-rust as soon as I took them out since all oils were leached out of them.  If you do this, paint the parts as soon as you remove them, while they are still warm.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 15:25:24 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:19:23 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] (Off Topic) Info wanted: Microfilm Digital Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If youbre reading this and are familiar with or can perform
the conversion of microfilm to digital format, please contact
me direct.  If necessary I can demonstrate how this information
request is related to the shop <grin>.

Super thanks.
gsteve@hammatt.com
Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 21:00:42 2013
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From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF4EDC3FA1.D9ED9ECD-ON85257B79.003EE4E4-85257B79.0040AE2D@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:50:02 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
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Good move!

I've used the kitchen dishwasher for car parts when the wife was out of town 
with good results. Aluminum and steel parts came out clean and there was no 
tell-tale residue in the machine.  Dishwashing detergent works well on oil 
and grease. I add a couple tablespoons to the regular detergent when washing 
my coveralls and shop rags.

Bob K 
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 21:21:48 2013
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	<39529EFA96004D8ABD0950F0D63DE497@BigBlack>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 23:17:14 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You can also use your kitchen oven's self-cleaning cycle for filthy
castings like transmission housings and engine blocks...

Doug


On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Bob Kegel <bobkegel@comcast.net> wrote:

> Good move!
>
> I've used the kitchen dishwasher for car parts when the wife was out of
> town with good results. Aluminum and steel parts came out clean and there
> was no tell-tale residue in the machine.  Dishwashing detergent works well
> on oil and grease. I add a couple tablespoons to the regular detergent when
> washing my coveralls and shop rags.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 21:45:33 2013
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 20:24:43 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
References: <OF4EDC3FA1.D9ED9ECD-ON85257B79.003EE4E4-85257B79.0040AE2D@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
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Bob wrote:

>I've used the kitchen dishwasher for car parts when the wife was out of 
>town with good results.

         Whether it's the dishwasher or oven - make sure to remove them 
before she gets home.

         Otherwise you'll get this:
<http://s845.photobucket.com/user/Daman3/media/79%20Westy/004b-9.jpg.html>

         No need to see the expression on her face, all men will know THAT 
look...


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       405,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 08:47:52 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 10:22:36 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/29/2013 10:22:40, Serialize complete at
	05/29/2013 10:22:40
Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This was just posted to my local Craigslist.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html 

If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I can 
pick it up for you.  I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how 
much that will cost.

Let me know.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ad says $100 in central NJ.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: eric@megageek.com
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 9:22:36 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other?
> This was just posted to my local Craigslist.
> 
> http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html
> 
> If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I
> can
> pick it up for you. I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how
> much that will cost.
> 
> Let me know.
> 
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
> rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 09:04:08 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 10:42:43 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/29/2013 10:42:44, Serialize complete at
	05/29/2013 10:42:44
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That was leftover from when he originally tried to sell it.  In the 
description, he states it's free, and it was posted in the "free" section.

If you are interested, you can call him to confirm.  Again, I'll pick it 
up if you want it.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




pethier@comcast.net 
05/29/2013 10:37 AM

To
eric@megageek.com
cc
shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other?






Ad says $100 in central NJ.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	29 May 2013 12:00:31 -0400
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 12:00:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or
	other?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks liks this might be for a Datsun Roadster as it was recognized by 
someone from that list......


-------- Begin forwarded message --------
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] FW: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop 
for a TR  4 or other?
Date: 5/29/13 10:29:59 AM
From: "Carol Herrmann" <quinlanhook@verizon.net>
To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>


It looks like a "parish plastics" hard top from Pa.   The was a neighbor 
of mine back in the '70's" who bought a "Miata looking " top for his 
SRL.  It appears to be the same style top.  Parish plastics got bought 
up by some other company years ago though.


Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 10:53 AM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> From the shop talk list......
>
>
> -------- Begin forwarded message --------
> Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or 
> other?
> Date: 5/29/13 9:22:36 AM
> From: eric@megageek.com
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
>
>
> This was just posted to my local Craigslist.
>
> http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html
>
> If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I 
> can
> pick it up for you.  I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how
> much that will cost.
>
> Let me know.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> ________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel@comcast.net>
To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>, "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net"
	<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <3f8f33e6.2511ab.13ef00ecc56.Webtop.49@charter.net>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:46:03 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a double shot of Tide liquid along with the dishwasher detergent. I 
use hot water and set the machine on "soak", giving all those chemicals a 
couple hours to work. So far, the tub has passed wifely inspection.

YMMV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Tim
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 04:31
To: Bob Kegel
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage

You wash your shop rags in the regular clothes washer? What exactly are
you using for soap? And how does the tub far when you are done (is there
a grease/oil residue left behind)?

Thanks!!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:55:40 -0400
From: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.21
Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not
pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower
that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet.

I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 13:33:19 2013
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:10:06 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, pay them.

I have had literally your same experience. What you really want is a 
brush hog, or a chain mower attached to a tractor that you see highway 
road crews using. Any normal mower just can't handle too-tall grass, 
especially when you start going over cut grass on top of uncut grass. 
You either need an open deck, a very powerful engine, and a non-blade 
'blade' (a chain), or you need time and patience and a big raking object.

I have two acres that is perpetually in the same condition you describe. 
I couldn't even find someone to cut it, and when I did, I was offended 
at the quotes.

After dealing with it, I suggest you pay them, or else make friends with 
some of the guys on the road crew.

On 5/29/2013 2:55 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not
> pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower
> that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet.
>
> I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
> really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
> have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, "shop-talk"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com><518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:27:01 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

jim,

they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory... 
here's a link

http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx

jphn
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 1:55 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?


>I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not
> pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower
> that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet.
>
> I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
> really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
> have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 16:28:10 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
> jim,
>
> they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory...
> here's a link
>
> http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx

I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar
mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's
needs for tinkering on old machinery.

Tractor:  http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg

Mower:  http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg

You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so
inclined.  Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 21:37:01 +0100
From: Nick Brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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	<518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 29/05/2013 19:55, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I have about 1/2 acre of foot-high grass that I just want short, not
> pristine. Got a quote of $385 to cut it. Once. I have a Honda rider mower
> that is dog slow and fills the bags in 10 feet.
>
> I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
> really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
> have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?
>

Jim,

This machine could be what you are looking for:

http://www.scag.com/vride.html

Might be overkill for 1/2 an acre but I can't imagine why that should 
put you off...

Another option is a flail mower, if you are cutting irregularly I've 
found that these deal with the mowings better than a rotary deck. Ferris 
make one:

http://www.ferrisindustries.com/eu/en/walk-behind-mowers/Comfort-control-dd-fm/

Not a stand on but half an acre of mowing only means about 1 1/4 miles 
of walking.

Both makers are well thought of in the business.

Nick Brearley
_______________________________________________

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate@gmail.com>, "shop-talk"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com><518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com><c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org><CAA82BE677D34D2FB3F459F949255286@john5043a2d406>
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:50:21 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

spent lots of summers letting a DB 2 wheeler drag me thru hi grass... 
changing out sickle bar teeth... running from yellow jackets... and all with 
no helmet or harness... how did we live through it !!!   That would work 
better than a "MOWER"....   it just cut the weeds then lay them 
down...easier to rake or "windrow" to clean up...

good memory, thanks Jeff

john
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?


> On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>> jim,
>>
>> they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory...
>> here's a link
>>
>> http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx
>
> I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar
> mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's
> needs for tinkering on old machinery.
>
> Tractor:  http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg
>
> Mower:  http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg
>
> You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so
> inclined.  Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jniolon@att.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 15:36:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 16:08:42 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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*I guess I'm a cheap patient person but I deal with 100 x 200 foot lot (1/2
acre) when it gets out of hand and 2 feet high just by raising the cutting
height to the top and grinding around in low gear taking a half swath when
it's REALLY heavy.  Use the chute instead of the bag and throw the cut
material to the outside.  After a few days of drying* * time, go back over
to shred the clippings.  I use a LawnBoy 12 hp rider with a single blade.
Takes about an hour and I use the cup holder for a Bud.*
*Tony*


On 29 May 2013 15:28, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
> > jim,
> >
> > they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory...
> > here's a link
> >
> >
> http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/default.aspx
>
> I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar
> mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's
> needs for tinkering on old machinery.
>
> Tractor:  http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg
>
> Mower:  http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg
>
> You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so
> inclined.  Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 00:11:37 +0200
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On May 29, 2013, at 22:28, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 3:27 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
>> jim,
>>
>> they are called 'walk-behinds... and the little sulky is an accessory...
>> here's a link
>>
>>
http://www.gravely.com/en-us/walk-behind-mowers/Pro-Walk-Hydro-Drive/Pages/de
fault.aspx
>
> I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar
> mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's
> needs for tinkering on old machinery.
>
> Tractor:  http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg
>
> Mower:  http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg
>
> You might be able to find something like that cheap, if you're so
> inclined.  Otherwise, get someone to bush hog it twice a year.
>

I saw a whole bunch of some thing very similar in south Serbia last week, some
pulling impressively large trailers loaded with hay. My wife's great uncle
uses one to mow his hay fields.


> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 17:27:12 2013
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References: <5f41275c.253954.13ef104ea30.Webtop.49@charter.net>
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 18:00:39 -0500
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
	FILETIME=[583A8730:01CE5CC0]
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] FW: Re:TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4
 or	other?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It also looked a lot like the top they made for Sunbeams. But the link was
removed before I could get a second opinion on that.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 11:05 AM, "Tim" <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> Looks liks this might be for a Datsun Roadster as it was recognized by
someone from that list......
>
>
> -------- Begin forwarded message --------
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] FW: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a
TR  4 or other?
> Date: 5/29/13 10:29:59 AM
> From: "Carol Herrmann" <quinlanhook@verizon.net>
> To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
>
>
> It looks like a "parish plastics" hard top from Pa.   The was a neighbor of
mine back in the '70's" who bought a "Miata looking " top for his SRL.  It
appears to be the same style top.  Parish plastics got bought up by some other
company years ago though.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 29, 2013, at 10:53 AM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> From the shop talk list......
>>
>>
>> -------- Begin forwarded message --------
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE --Free hardtop for a TR 4 or other?
>> Date: 5/29/13 9:22:36 AM
>> From: eric@megageek.com
>> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
>>
>>
>> This was just posted to my local Craigslist.
>>
>> http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3808280608.html
>>
>> If any of you know what it will fit, and need it, let me know and I can
>> pick it up for you.  I'll ship it to you as well, but I don't know how
>> much that will cost.
>>
>> Let me know.
>>
>> Eric P
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> ________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 20:20:26 2013
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:09:23 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
	<518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
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Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't think "sickle bar" and "cheap" are allowed to be in the same 
sentence.  At least, I have never seen any kind of sickle bar I would 
actually want to use for anything near what I would be willing to pay 
for it.

To the O.P., one thing to consider would be to rent a DR Mower. Yes, 
it's walk behind, but it'll knock the grass down.  Or find a neighbor 
with a tractor and brush hog.


On 5/29/2013 1:28 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> I used to have an old David Bradley 2-wheel tractor with a sickle bar
> mower, whih would be good for that task, as well as satisfying one's
> needs for tinkering on old machinery.
>
> Tractor:http://www.w-t-p.com/2005/D03-7937.jpg
>
> Mower:http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maOwxo9R2-PZsUrtEHoL8kQ.jpg
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 22:19:43 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just re-read the "half-acre" part. For half an acre, do what Dave says 
and rent the DR/brush hog. Half an acre is nothing to knock out with one 
of those.

On 5/29/2013 10:09 PM, Dave C wrote:
> To the O.P., one thing to consider would be to rent a DR Mower. Yes, 
> it's walk behind, but it'll knock the grass down.  Or find a neighbor 
> with a tractor and brush hog.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 30 07:44:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 09:34:54 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF4EDC3FA1.D9ED9ECD-ON85257B79.003EE4E4-85257B79.0040AE2D@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwashers in the garage
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On 5/28/2013 7:34 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> First, will normal dishwasher soap hurt engine parts, bare metals, etc?
> Next, is there a soap that I should use that will not hurt the dishwasher?
> Finally, are there things that should NOT go in there?

I've found them to be really good at cleaning plastic car parts over the 
years. The Ex insisted on eating fast food breakfast & what not on her 
long commute and would trash a car interior. Routine was 4 bolts - pull 
driver's seat, dismantle center console & part of dash, throw in 
dishwasher. Vacuum up crud (SUPER easy and more thorough with nothing in 
the way -- easily worth time of disassembly) while the D.W. is running. 
Also ran a lot of under hood plastic parts like covers, intake parts, etc.

Haven't done many metal parts. But I suspect any heavy oil or grease 
would gack up a D.W. in a hurry.

And the BIG thing to avoid -- do NOT use any kind of foamy detergents!!! 
Regular dish soap or Simple Green will foam like mad and make a hellish 
mess of foam you can't hardly get rid of!

-w
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:13:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 92 ford tempo that both my daughters drove while in high 
school. It has now been mostly sitting for the past two years with some 
usage last summer and random weekends druing this time frame. It has 
less than 75,000 miles on it (original old lady car from GA when we got 
it six years ago with only 52K at that time. It had the original plug 
wires stamped with 1992 on them and probably the original coolant based 
on the chunky choclate milk consistancy.)

Anyway, I moved it yesterday and was reminded of the thunk I get after 
putting it in reverse (NOT during shift lever movement) and stepping on 
the gas. If my foot is left on the brake pedal, it does not thunk until 
after I remove my foot from the brake and press on the gas.

It does not seem to do this when shift into drive.

Is this CV axle or tranny?

Thanks
tim
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References: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net>
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 17:54:13 +0200
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse
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On May 30, 2013, at 17:13, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> I have a 92 ford tempo that both my daughters drove while in high 
> school. It has now been mostly sitting for the past two years with some 
> usage last summer and random weekends druing this time frame. It has 
> less than 75,000 miles on it (original old lady car from GA when we got 
> it six years ago with only 52K at that time. It had the original plug 
> wires stamped with 1992 on them and probably the original coolant based 
> on the chunky choclate milk consistancy.)
> 
> Anyway, I moved it yesterday and was reminded of the thunk I get after 
> putting it in reverse (NOT during shift lever movement) and stepping on 
> the gas. If my foot is left on the brake pedal, it does not thunk until 
> after I remove my foot from the brake and press on the gas.
> 
> It does not seem to do this when shift into drive.
> 
> Is this CV axle or tranny?

Motor mount, tranny mount is my first guess. 
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 12:51:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, that would be nice...and considerably cheaper to fix on a car not 
worth much to begin with.

Did I mention my oldest backed into a light pole, dead center of the 
rear end? She managed to not break a light so I fixed it with a BFH and 
made her track down and pay for a replacement hood and bumper (diff 
color of course!) and then my youngest backed into an oncoming truck 
which managed to miss her all but a small little clip on the bumper? (So 
we have a three colored car!) I wonder if I could get $250 for it.....it 
does run good....who cares that the crappy ford window motors are all 
dead and you can no longer really put the windows down.....

Thanks for hopefully good news!!
tim

On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:07 AM, Doug Braun wrote:


I agree.

Doug


On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:54 AM, David Scheidt < dmscheidt@gmail.com 
<javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('dmscheidt@gmail.com')> > 
wrote:

  <javascript:parent.wgMail.openComposeWindow('dmscheidt@gmail.com')>
Motor mount, tranny mount is my first guess.
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>, "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <6a6679d6.83f801.13ef6003897.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:10:31 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse
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I second the notion that motor/transmission mounts are what I'd check first.
If you open the hood and replicate the scenario you might be able to see the
engine jumping as its torque moves it off a broken mount.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:13 AM
Subject: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse


>I have a 92 ford tempo

> I moved it yesterday and was reminded of the thunk I get after
> putting it in reverse (NOT during shift lever movement) and stepping on
> the gas. If my foot is left on the brake pedal, it does not thunk until
> after I remove my foot from the brake and press on the gas.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <110b9463.840968.13ef659b737.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:34:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A bit of googling dug up this...
http://www.fordforums.com/f307/loud-clunk-reverse-93-tempo-gl-80477/


Brake
pads that are missing hardware may cause clunk noises too. 


----- Original
Message -----
> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
(snip)
> Oh, that would be
nice...and considerably cheaper to fix on a car not 
> worth much to begin
with.
> 
> Did I mention my oldest backed into a light pole, dead center of
the 
> rear end? She managed to not break a light so I fixed it with a BFH and
> made her track down and pay for a replacement hood and bumper (diff 
> color
of course!) and then my youngest backed into an oncoming truck 
> which
managed to miss her all but a small little clip on the bumper? (So 
> we have
a three colored car!) I wonder if I could get $250 for it.....it 
> does run
good....who cares that the crappy ford window motors are all 
> dead and you
can no longer really put the windows down.....
> 
> Thanks for hopefully good
news!!
> tim
> 

(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 30 14:42:46 2013
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 20:38:29 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] thunk going into reverse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Is this CV axle or tranny?

I'd check the torque strut first (assuming it has one).

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 30 18:21:44 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 19:58:16 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 05/30/2013 20:01:49, Serialize complete at
	05/30/2013 20:01:49
Subject: [Shop-talk] TIME SENSITIVE - The hard top listing is back
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Here it is...

http://cnj.craigslist.org/zip/3839511459.html 

Again, it's free, so if you need it, let me know and I'll get it and ship 
it to you.



Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 30 21:16:27 2013
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>,
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
	<518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 22:12:09 -0500
Thread-Index: AQI0ZyjmfJ7nCAbOoohfhjifsbQHdgNbVmxhAupqj1+YIFvPwA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,
Not sure that it's the machine for the job, but the commonly-seen brand of
standing mower around here (Chicago area) is Wright Stander.  It might not
be distributed very widely, but I really don't know - only that I see them
pretty much every day all summer.
Karl

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Franklin
Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
<snip>
I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?
thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 06:37:50 2013
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	Fri, 31 May 2013 05:33:13 -0700
From: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 07:33:18 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	with any abuse report
	bob@texmog.com
Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced it with
a TEAC  unit.   The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling vents
located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the top of the
case.
I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll have a
heavy build up of dust inside the case.
 If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting the air
flow enough that the unit overheats.?     Any suggestions  or am I being
paranoid?
Neither unit has a cooling fan,

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 08:04:35 2013
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 09:55:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When I replaced the old tube style tuner in my shop I ended up buying a 
big ugly boom box combo unit that would play my ipod (and CDs if I was 
so inclined). I have a big plastic shopping bag that I pull all the way 
down over it when not in use and lift it up so it just sits on the top 
when in use so as to keep the fall out to a minimum. It is not really 
pretty, but then again neither am I nor is most of my shop space.

tim


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Bob Nogueira wrote:

> My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced 
> it with
> a TEAC  unit.   The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling 
> vents
> located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the 
> top of the
> case.
> I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll 
> have a
> heavy build up of dust inside the case.
>  If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting 
> the air
> flow enough that the unit overheats.?     Any suggestions  or am I 
> being
> paranoid?
> Neither unit has a cooling fan,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 08:06:39 2013
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 09:55:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh yea, I don't have an over heating issue and I am in WI.


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Bob Nogueira wrote:

> My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced 
> it with
> a TEAC  unit.   The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling 
> vents
> located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the 
> top of the
> case.
> I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll 
> have a
> heavy build up of dust inside the case.
>  If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting 
> the air
> flow enough that the unit overheats.?     Any suggestions  or am I 
> being
> paranoid?
> Neither unit has a cooling fan,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 10:08:28 2013
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References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
	<518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
	<000901ce5dac$a3c8ffa0$eb5afee0$@Ameritech.net>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:04:07 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s

Doug


On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:12 PM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:

> Jim,
> Not sure that it's the machine for the job, but the commonly-seen brand of
> standing mower around here (Chicago area) is Wright Stander.  It might not
> be distributed very widely, but I really don't know - only that I see them
> pretty much every day all summer.
> Karl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Franklin
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
> <snip>
> I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
> really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
> have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:05:59 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This also puts it in perspective:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE



On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:12 PM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>> Jim,
>> Not sure that it's the machine for the job, but the commonly-seen brand of
>> standing mower around here (Chicago area) is Wright Stander.  It might not
>> be distributed very widely, but I really don't know - only that I see them
>> pretty much every day all summer.
>> Karl
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Franklin
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
>> <snip>
>> I'd like to get one of those stand-on mowers I see the pros using that
>> really scoot, and either mulch or drive it towards the center/edge, but I
>> have no idea what to search for. Any ideas/experiences?
>> thanks,
>> jim
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 10:21:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the
videos.  

I dug a bit but didn't find any.   :)     May be able to change my
mind, but
power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any
day. 

(I must be getting old. <bg>) 

Brian


----- Original Message -----
>
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
> To: Shop-Talk
<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM
>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
> 
> Perhaps something simpler would
work for the original poster's task:
> 
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
> 
> Doug
> 
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 11:28:11 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Tim'" <tputland@charter.net>, "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 10:23:59 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5eB4PWGsEEQU6iS/uN/mr7RILFlAAGvbAg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
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I'd just leave it alone.  We get a lot of dust here too, and my 70's Pioneer
receiver didn't seem to mind a 20 year accumulation.  The electronics
outlived the speakers.

Of course the dial lights burned out a long time ago, so that might have
helped <g>

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:56:40 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How much did you pay for this thing?  If not much, just run it.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 14:12:49 -0400
To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
Cc: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Some of my friends invoke John Henry sometimes.  I remind them that he died at
the end and the machine kept going.

-Paul

On May 31, 2013, at 1:21 PM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:

> One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the
> videos.
>
> I dug a bit but didn't find any.   :)     May be able to change my
> mind, but
> power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any
> day.
>
> (I must be getting old. <bg>)
>
> Brian
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
>> To: Shop-Talk
> <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>> Cc:
>> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
>>
>> Perhaps something simpler would
> work for the original poster's task:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
>>
>> Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a relatively nice Sony receiver in the garage and I simply use a 
small towel to cover the top when not in use and fold it over itself when in 
use.  Been a couple years and no problems other than the neighbors when I 
crank up the Bose Series II speakers attached to it.

Gordie 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<518C2D45.7000701@xxiii.com>
	<c41411faba93ed8b38b14d6b3f3e1577.squirrel@webmail.groupwbench.org>
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 14:34:04 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You mean something like this?

http://www.latef.org/images/BobMachete.JPG

Doug


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:21 PM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:

> One may note there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the
> videos.
>
> I dug a bit but didn't find any.   :)     May be able to change my
> mind, but
> power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any
> day.
>
> (I must be getting old. <bg>)
>
> Brian
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> >
> From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
> > To: Shop-Talk
> <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> > Cc:
> > Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 12:04 PM
> >
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
> >
> > Perhaps something simpler would
> work for the original poster's task:
> >
> >
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >(snip)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:18:56 -0400
References: <20130509.131947.19956.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
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To: shop-talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You, uh, haven't met me :-)

Let's say I more represent the animal that'd graze on that grass than either
of the contestants.

However, I did find a landscaping company that will do it for $50/cut. They
wanted $100 to do the first cut but my girlfriend wanted to play with the
rider mower and did about half before it got dark.

Thanks for all your responses. A friend does have a 46" commercial mower she'd
sell me but I'd need to buy the sulky. Not sure what that entails but once the
heat breaks here in MA I'll venture outside and see what she has.

jim

On May 31, 2013, at 12:05 PM, Doug Braun wrote:

> This also puts it in perspective:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
>
>> Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task:
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
>>
>> Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 15:22:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Haha. Where I'm originally from, they still cut grass that way today. :)  
The motorized things are a luxury there.  I've never been able to get my own
machete that sharp. I need to find someone who knows the art. Even my uncle's
machete, I inherited when he passed, is sharp enough to cut paper. I remember
him sitting there filing away on the edges.

Brian 


----- Original Message
-----
> From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
> To: Shop-Talk
<Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 2:34 PM
>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
> 
> You mean something like this?
>
> http://www.latef.org/images/BobMachete.JPG
> 
> Doug
> 
> 
> On Fri, May 31,
2013 at 1:21 PM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
>>  One may note
there are no inch or two inch thick saplings in any of the
>>  videos.
>> 
>>
I dug a bit but didn't find any.   :)     May be able to change my
>>  mind,
but
>>  power tools even with their issues, will win over hard labor any
>>
day.
>> 
>>  (I must be getting old. <bg>)
>> 
>>  Brian
>> 
>> 
>>  -----
Original Message -----
>>  >
>>  From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
>>  >
To: Shop-Talk
>>  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>>  > Cc:
>>  > Sent: Friday, May
31, 2013 12:04 PM
>>  >
>>  Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
>>  >
>>
> Perhaps something simpler would
>>  work for the original poster's task:
>>
>
>>  >
>>  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
>>  >
>>  > Doug
>>  >
>>  >(snip)
>>  _______________________________________________
>> 
>>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
>
_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:40:03 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, Shop Talk List
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This girlfriend who mows half your yard while you natter about buying a
mower; does she have a sister?


On 31 May 2013 15:18, Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> You, uh, haven't met me :-)
>
> Let's say I more represent the animal that'd graze on that grass than
> either
> of the contestants.
>
> However, I did find a landscaping company that will do it for $50/cut. They
> wanted $100 to do the first cut but my girlfriend wanted to play with the
> rider mower and did about half before it got dark.
>
> Thanks for all your responses. A friend does have a 46" commercial mower
> she'd
> sell me but I'd need to buy the sulky. Not sure what that entails but once
> the
> heat breaks here in MA I'll venture outside and see what she has.
>
> jim
>
> On May 31, 2013, at 12:05 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
>
> > This also puts it in perspective:
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Perhaps something simpler would work for the original poster's task:
> >>
> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzdjOkLQw1s
> >>
> >> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 15:59:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Someone like this? 

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd133/randey90/mowing_zps08982219.jpg


Randy



________________________________
From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>; Shop Talk List 
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 5:44:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stand-on mowers?

This girlfriend who mows half your yard while you natter about buying a
mower; does she have a sister?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 21:49:43 2013
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 20:45:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Vantacich <rustymetal@sbcglobal.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] rigid insulation board
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to insulate the ceiling in my barn, 18'x30',  and am thinking of using 2" 
rigid insulation board or otherwise called polystyrene. One side has a 
reflective foil on it and the other has  some kind of a plastic wrap on it and 
it is this side that I would like to paint white to cover up the blue printing. 
Is this feasible and does any one recommend a particular paint. 


Thanks for the help.

 
Frank V.
Loomis, Ca
rustymetal@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 21:59:06 2013
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <1A885904-DD1C-4B62-BA78-82600785DE0B@texmog.com>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 20:48:05 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5d+/ufWQPI9uRHS3aCSiK7C9odCQAfnVQQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob, 

How about a flat plate on top of the receiver with say 2 inch standoffs at
the corners.  The dust can't drop in and the heat can get out.  Plus it's
additional storage surface!!!

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Nogueira
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:33 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Stereo cooling in the garage

My 40 year old Realistic stereo in the garage finally died. I replaced it
with
a TEAC  unit.   The Realistic unit had a walnut case with the cooling vents
located on the backside. The TEAC unit has the cooling vents on the top of
the
case.
I'm worried that with the amount of dust generated in the garage I'll have a
heavy build up of dust inside the case.
 If I place some air filter material over the vents will I be limiting the
air
flow enough that the unit overheats.?     Any suggestions  or am I being
paranoid?
Neither unit has a cooling fan,

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

